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Professional Institute of Science & Fashion Technology (PISFT)
Professional Institute of Science & Fashion Technology (PISFT)
Technology (PISFT)
Assignment on:
Knit Machine Attachment & Engineering
KNT- 485
Submitted to:
Sayed Azaryl Haque.
Lecturer of PISFT
Submitted By:
Ormee Kumar Dey.
ID:12-02-19
Group: B-
Semester:- 8th
Batch: 1st
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What is Yarn?
Yarn is a long continuous length of interlocked fibers suitable for use in the
production of textiles sewing crocheting knitting, weaving, embroidery and rope
making.
What is Textile?
A textile or cloth is a flexible woven material consisting of a network of natural or
artificial fibers often referred to as thread or yarn. Yarn is produced by spinning raw
fibers of wool, flax, cotton, or other material to produce long strands. A textile is
anything that is made up of fibers, yarns, or fabrics.
Fabric:
The Fabric is a structure of interlock / interloping or interlacement process of yarn,
which have Length, width, thick or thin properties that is call fabric
Manufactured assembly of interlacing fibers, filaments, and/or yarns having (1) substantial
surface (planar) area in relation to its thickness, and (2) adequate mechanical strength to give
it a cohesive structure.
Most fabrics are knitted or woven, but some are produced by
non-woven processes such as braiding, felting, and twisting. Applied loosely, 'fabric'
also includes laces, meshes, and nets. See also textile.
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Classification of Fabric: Fabric can be classified as
Knitted fabric.
Woven fabric.
Non-woven Fabric.
Woven fabric: Woven fabric is a textile formed by weaving. It is produced on a
loom, and made of many threads woven on a warp and a weft. Two set threads are
(warp & weft) required. Here needle isn’t use. Twill, poplin, silk, are example of w.f.
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Features of Compound Structure:
More than one series of ends and one series of picks are used in the woven
construction.
Some of the threads may be responsible for the body of the fabric . Such as
ground yarns, whilst some may be employed entirely for ornamental purposes
such as Figuring or Face yarn.
Non-woven Fabric: Nonwoven fabrics are broadly defined as sheet or web structures
bonded together by entangling fiber or filaments (and by perforating films) mechanically,
thermally, or chemically. They are flat, porous sheets that are made directly from separate
fibers or from molten plastic or plastic film.
What is Knitting : The knitting is a process of fabric manufacturing by converting a yarn into
loop form and then these loops interlock together, which form a structure , is called knitting.
Knitting is a method by whitch yarn is manipulated to creat a fabric. Knitting creats muliple
loops of yarn , called stitch in a line or tube. Knitting has multiple active stitches on the
needle at one time. Knitted fabric consists of a number of consecutive rows of interlooping
loops.
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Types ofKnittingStructure: The knitting structure can classified in two type-
a) Warp Knitting.
b) Weft Knitting.
Warp knitting: A method of making a fabric by normal knitting means is which the loop made
from each warp thread is formed substantially along the length of the fabric. In a warp
knitting structure each loop in horizontal direction is made from different thread.
Knitting Start
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Roll marking
Inspection
Numbering
Classification of Knitting:
Knitting
Unidirectional
Wales: The Wales is vertical columns of Loops in a Knitted Fabric is called Wales. The Loops
of Knitted fabric the total amount of verticals rows is known as Wales. Wales determine the
length of fabric.
Course: Course is horizontal row of loops across the width of fabric produced by adjacent
needles during the same knitting cycle.
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Figure 1.2: Course
What is knitting Loop: A kink of yarn that is intermeshed at its base when
intermeshed two kink of yarn is called knitted loop . In loop knitting, long, dangling
loops are introduced into the middle of a knitted fabric or along an edge (fringe
border).
Kink of yarn: A Length of yarn that has been bent into a shape appropriate for its
transformation into a weft knitted loop.
Type of knit Loops: The knit can be classified based on cam arrangement like as-
1) Knit Loop.
2) Miss Loop.
3) Tuck Loop.
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Tuck Loop: A tuck stitch is composed of a held loop, one or more tuck loops and
knitted loops. It is produced when a needle holding its loop also receives the new
loop.
Knitted stitch: The stitch is a kink of yarn that is intermeshing at its base and at its
top. The knitted stitch is the basic Unit intermeshing and usually consists of three or
more intermeshed loop the center loop having been drawn through the head of the
lower loop which had in turn been intermeshed through its head by the loop which
had apparels above it.
Needle Loop: The upper part of the loop produced by the needle drawing the yarn
is called as needle loop. It is a simple unit of knitted structure. It formed by head (top
arc) and two legs of the weft knitted loop.
So, Needle Loop = Top arc + Two legs.
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Sinker Loop: The lower part of the knitted loop is technically referred as sinker
loop. The Bottoms arcs are also called Sinker Loop.
So, One complete Loop = One needle Loop + two half of sinker loop
Stitch Density: Wales per inch (WPI) X Courses per inch (CPI).
Loop Length: We know that the knitted fabric is assembling of loops. So we, have
to measurement the loops length. Firstly we mark 08/10 course by gel-pen. Then the
yarn is separated from the fabric. It is easy to measurement into C.M.
Then we take constant figure of measurement unit of yarn. Now it is easily covert into
Millimeter (M.M). Then divide it marked courses.
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Needle Gauge: The needle gauge of a knitting M/C is a measure expressing the
number of needle s per unit of needle bed width. The gauge of needle refers to the
total no needle into 1 unit inch.
The Needle Pitch: The needle pitch is distance between two neighboring
needles in the same needle bed, from the center of a needle to the center of the
neighboring needles.
Needle Slot:
Cylinder / Dial: The Cylinder is a steel Circular bed having grooves on its outer
periphery where the needles are mounted. It is a Devise to decide the needle
movement.
1. Butt
2. Butt height
3. Back shank
4. Stem
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5. Crimp
6. Groove
7. Cheek
8. Hook
9. Hook width
10. Latch
11. Rivet.
1. The Hook: The hook which draws and returns the new loop.
2. The slot or Saw Cut: This slot receives the latch blade.
3. The Cheeks or Slot Walls: It is either punched or riveted to fulcrum the latch
blade.
4. The Rivet: The rivet which may be plain or threaded. This has been dispensed
with on most plated metal needles by pinching n the slot walls to retain the latch
blades.
5. The latch blade: This latch blade locates the latch in the needle.
6. The latch spoon: The latch spoon is an extension of blade and bridges the gap
between the hook and stem.
7. The stem: The stem of latch needle carries the loop in the clearing on rest
position.
8. The Butt: Butt of latch needle enables the needle to be reciprocated.
9. The Tail: The tail is an extension below the butt giving additional support to
the needle and keeping the needle in its trick.
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The Diagram of knitting action of the latch needle
Figure shows
the position of a
latch needle as it passes through the cam system, completing one knitting cycle or
course as it moves up and in its trick or slot.
1 The rest position. The head of the needle hook is level with the top of the verge of the
trick. The loop formed at the previous feeder is in the closed hook. It is prevented from
rising as the needle rises, by holding-down sinkers or web holders that move forward
between the needles to hold down the sinker loops.
2 Latch opening. As the needle butt passes up the incline of the clearing cam, the old
loop, which is held down by the sinker, slides inside the hook and conta cts the latch,
turning and opening it.
3 Clearing height. When the needle reaches the top of the cam, the old loop is cleared
from the hook and latch spoon on to the stem. At this point the feeder guide plate acts as
a guard to prevent the latch from closing the empty hook.
4 Yarn feeding and latch closing. The needle starts to descend the stitch cam so that
its latch is below the verge, with the old loop moving under it. At this point the new yarn
is fed through a hole in the feeder guide to the descending needle hook, as there is no
danger of the yarn being fed below the latch. The old loop contacts the underside of the
latch, causing it to close on to the hook.
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5 Knocking-over and loop length formation. As the head of the needle descends
below the top of the trick, the old loop slides off the needle and the new loop is drawn
through it. The continued descent of the needle draws the loop length, which is
approximately twice the distance the head of the needle descends, below the surface of
the sinker or trick-plate supporting the sinker loop.
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Two types of compound needle have been employed in warp
knitting machines:
I. The tubular pipe needle has its tongue sliding inside the tube of
the open hook.
II. The open stem “Pusher type” or slide needle has a closing wire or
tongue that slides externally along a groove on the edge of the flat
hook member.
Bearded needle
A fine steel needle for machine knitting that has a butt at one end and a
long, flexible hook at the other that curves back to the shank of the
needle. Also known as spring needle. Bearded needles were used on tricot
machines
A bearded needle shown with the beard in the open and closed positions.
The needle consists of five main parts
The main parts of the bearded needle
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The knitting action of the bearded needle has been illustrated in Fig. Depending upon
the machine, the needles are set vertically or horizontally. The needle has the
disadvantage of requiring a pressing edge to close the bearded hook and enclose the
new loop. The presser may be in the form of a bar, blade, verge or wheel, with either
the presser or the needle remaining stationary whilst the other element moves
towards it.
Engineering CAM.
Knitting CAM
Engineering CAM: It is circular CAM. This circular engineering CAM indirectly
control the motion of bars of elements which move masse as a single units in cottons
patent to and warp knitting. They are attaching to a rotary drive shaft situated
parallel to and below the needle bar.
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Knitting CAM: In weft knitting, we use knitting cam. The knitting cams
are classified 3 kinds.
i) Knit CAM.
ii) Miss CAM.
iii) Tuck CAM.
Sinker: The Sinker is the Primary knitting element. It is a thin metal plate
with an individual or a collective action operating approximately at right
angle from the hook side of the needle bed, between adjacent needles.
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Yarn Fabric Path Diagram Flow Chart:
Creel
Feeder
Needles
Fabric Spreader
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Yarn to Fabric Path diagram:
1 – Legs
2 – Cylinder
3 – Dial
4 – Needle
5 – Cam Parts
6 – Feeder guide
7 – Cam
8 – Supply Package
9 – Creel
10 – Top Stop motion
11 – Anti Snarl Device
12 – Tensioner
13 – Positive feeder
14 – Knitted fabric
15 – Fabric spreader
16 – Fabric withdrawal roller
17 – Fabric winding roller
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Weft single jersey (Technical face)
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Half Tricot Structure: (Warp Knitting)
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“A knitting machine is thus an apparatus for applying , mechanical movement, either hand or
power derived, to primary knitting elements, in order to convert yarn into kitted loop
structures”.
Frame: the frame, normally free standing and wither circular or rectilinear according
to needle bed shape. Provides the support for the majority of the machines
mechanisms.
Power supply: The machine control and drive system co-ordinates the power for the
drive of the devices and mechanisms.
Yarn supply or feeding: The yarn supply consists of the yarn package or beam
accommodation tensioning devices, yarn feed control and yarn feed carriers or guides.
Knitting action: The knitting system includes the knitting elements, their housing,
drive and control as well as associated pattern selection and garment- length control
devices (if equipped).
Fabric Take- away: The fabric take away mechanism includes fabric tensioning,
wind up and accommodation devices.
Quality control: The quality control system includes stop motions, full detectors,
automatic oilers and lint removal system.
Machine Specification:
Weft knitting machines are divided into the several ways as follows:
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ii. Double Jersey knitting machine.
i. Fabric machine
Double cylinder
Domestic type
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b. Straight bar frame
One
Name Of Parts Number Per M/C
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MPF Magnet 90
Knot Catcher 90
Eye Pot 90
Hose Pipe 02
Needle Faults Detector 15
Oil Nozzle 21
Oil Pipe 21
Air Finishing Nozzle 30
Air Finishing Pipe 30
Fabric Detectors 02
Main Switch 01
Fabric Light 01
Take Down Light 02
Oil & Air Pressure 02
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Oil Pipe: Generally in a Knitting, oil is mast be used. This is Oiler pipe to oiled the M/C
Cam Box: The CAM is principal elements of knitting M/C. It is a CAM box.
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CAM Arrangement:
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VDQ Pulley: It is a very important part of the machine. It controls the quality of the
product. Altering the position of the tension pulley changes the G.S.M. of the fabric
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Creel: Creel is a part of a knitting machine. Hear yarn package are store and ready to feed in
the machine.
Photo: Creel.
Pulley Belt: It controls the rotation of the MPF wheel.
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Photo: Brush.
Tension Disk : It confronts the tension of the supply yarn.
Inlet and Outlet Stop Motion: It is an important part of the machine. It stops the
machine instantly when a yarn is break.
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Photo: Yarn Guide.
MPF Wheel: Its control the speed of the MPF. Pulley belt gives motion to the wheel.
MPF: It is Mamenger positive feed. It is also an important part of the machine. It’s give
positive feed to the machine.
Photo: MPF.
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Photo: Feeder Ring.
Pattern Wheel: Pattern Wheel use in Pai Lung and Auto Stripe machine because of that
that help to produce various types of design and stripe.
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Feeder: Feeder is help yarn to feed in to the machine.
Photo: Feeder.
Sinker Ring: Sinker ring is a ring. Where all sinkers are pleased together.
Lycra Attachment Device : Lycra is placed hear. And feeding to the machine.
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Lycra Stop Motion: It is one kind of stop motion to stop the machine when the Lycra is
break.
Photo: Cylinder.
Cylinder Balancer: It helps the cylinder to set in a proper alignment.
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Uniwave Lubrication: The Uniwave lubricator provides uniform lubrication to needles,
cam tracks, lifters and other knitting machine components. The patented nozzle construction
separates the air-oil mixture into air and droplets of oil.
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Photo: Expander.
Air Gun Nozzle: To feed the yarn; sometimes it is used for cleaning purpose.
Positive Feeder
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Yarn Wheel or Yarn resaves Wheel
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Choice of Output Base
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Single Tape Tensional
Yarn Guide
Spandex Wheel
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Spanner of Variable Diameter for Quality Pulley
Roller Pad
Needle Hook
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Inverter For use knitting Machine
Needle Detector
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Fabric Detector
Dust Cleaner
Spring
Spreader
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Ware Race Bearing
Weight Scale
Swatch Cutter
Magnifier
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Tension Mete
Light Box
Thickness Gauge
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Textile marker
Hose Pipe
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Tube Cutter
Flat Belt
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Defects in the Knitted Fabrics
A defect in the knitted fabric is an abnormality, which spoils the aesthetics i.e. the clean &
uniform appearance of the fabric & effects the performance parameters, like; dimensional
stability etc.
There are various types of defects, which occur in the knitted fabrics of all types, caused by a
variety of reasons. The same type of defects may occur in the fabric, due to a variety of
different causes e.g. Drop Stitches, Spatiality. Prime causes of the fabric defects are, as
follows
• Yarns
• Knitting Elements
• Knitting Machine Settings
• Dyeing
• Finishing
As regard to greige knit fabric, the first three causes are the sources for defects to occur.
Knitting Fabric Defect are those that can be created during the fabrication (fabric formation)
and some of them are listed below. These defects are checked during the quality control
process
1. Needle line: when the needle is broken, bent, and old or damaged on the knitting machine
it creates the straight line mark on the length of the fabric.
2. Sinker line: When the sinker is broken, bent, and old or damaged on the knitting machine
it will create strait line mark on the length wise direction of the fabric.
3. Stripe mark/Bar defect: this defect is created when thin and thick yarns are mixed, when
the tension of one yarn is varied from the others, due to count variation, when the origins of
the cotton fiber from which yarns are made are different.
4. Canal mark: is the straight line mark through the length of the fabric and can be easily
visible on the fabric. Can be occurred due to the needle adjustment problem.
5. Different tears and holes on the fabric: this can be occurred due to the needle breaks,
yarn breaks or other.
6. Grease and oil stain: this defect arises due to the improper fabric handling of the griege
fabric or if the machine is not properly cleaned. It might or might not be removed after
washing.
7. Nepe, thick, thin place on the fabric: this defect is due to the irregularity of yarn used for
knitting. This irregularity of yarn will cause the dyeing problem usually dye absorption
problem (dark and light shade) making the stripe on the fabric.
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5. Tuck or double stitches
6. Bunching up
7. Vertical stripes
8. Horizontal stripes
9. Soil stripes
10. Color fly
11. Distorted stitches
This sequence of points is absolutely random; the incorporation of defect– table faults into
These 11 groups permits an initial judgment. Besides general indications and comments it is
always necessary to have at least one defective fabric sample for analysis and fault
ascertainment. In most of the cases an experienced technician is needed to examine the
conditions on the machine and recommend the proper measures to be adopted.
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