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Trading Up - Page 7

Extend your brand both Use influence marketing


8 Practices 5 8 Practices 7
up-market and down-market. and brand evangelists.

Many new-luxury companies extend their brand at both ends of In most new-luxury product categories, there are a small core of
the price spectrum simultaneously. It’s not unusual for there to customers who generate a large proportion of sales and profits
be a fivefold to tenfold difference between the highest and lowest through their repeat purchases. For example, Victoria’s Secret
price points offered by a new-luxury vendor. This contrasts with has found the top 10-percent of customers generate half its sales
normal commercial practice where a company’s most expensive and profits. New-luxury companies focus intensively on these
product is usually only three or four times the price of its cheapest core customers.
product offering. As a result, most new-luxury products are launched differently
By having products positioned at both ends of the price from mass consumer products. Instead of an advertising blitz,
spectrum, new-luxury players create aspirational demand while many of these products involve carefully managed sales efforts
simultaneously making their products more accessible and to specific groups in specific venues. Word-of-mouth is then
competitive. They pull this off by creating and maintaining a enlisted to build buzz about the product. For example, when
distinct character for each product at every price level. The brand Calloway Golf released its Big Bertha driver, the company used
essence which all products share is then articulated and made endorsements from Jack Welch and Bill Gates as a way to
obvious. influence recreational golfers.
For example, both Mercedes-Benz’s high end Maybach 62 By continuing to focus intensively on these core customers and
which sells at $350,000 and its C230 sports coupe at $26,000 ideally turn them into fans of the brand, new-luxury companies
share the Mercedes brand theme – advanced engineering, also get early warning signals when the market is shifting. That
quality manufacture, flawless performance, solidity, safety and provides ideas and hints for next-generation variants, features
luxurious comfort. Each model interprets those themes in its own and products.
characteristic and genuine way.
Continually attack the
8 Practices 8
Customize your value chain to category like an outsider.
8 Practices 6
deliver the ladder of benefits.
New-luxury companies are always on the outlook for the next
New-luxury creators always find ways to work outside the breakthrough. They don’t think like industry incumbents,
established industry value chains in order to achieve economies by-and-large, because many new-luxury vendors are outsiders
of scale at small volumes. Typically, this involves placing more of themselves. Therefore, they continually look beyond their own
an emphasis on control and less on ownership of the value chain. categories for emerging trends and patterns.
In other words, new-luxury vendors tend to become masters of Where do new-luxury companies draw their inspiration? From
the value chain. old luxury products or services, from innovations from overseas
For example, the Boston Beer Company makes Samuel Adams (especially Europe or Asia), from advice provided by the experts
Boston Lager with the objective of making the best beer in or professionals or by importing ideas which have worked in
America. The company is now the largest specialty brewer with other product categories. It’s not unusual for new-luxury
sales of $250 million in 2002. Samuel Adams sells at price companies to have people carrying out worldwide scouting
premiums of roughly 100-percent over Budweiser, Miller Lite and expeditions for new ideas, and to form alliances with eclectic
Coors. Yet Boston Beer only controls what it identifies as the groups and organizations to instil some new thinking and original
most important elements of the value chain and contracts out ideas into the mix.
everything else. Boston Beer doesn’t attempt to grow its own Actually, the hard part comes when a new-luxury company
hops. Nor does the company build its own expensive production becomes highly successful. It then becomes easy for the
facilities, but works with selected brewers to use a specified company’s ideas and philosophy to become the new
process which combines aspects of 19th-century brewing with conventional wisdom for that industry. Many others will then try to
20th-century quality control methods. Boston Beer then handles follow the same business model. New-luxury companies know
labeling, packaging and distribution so that the beer can be in the this is dangerous, and force themselves to keep thinking and
consumer’s hands within one month of it being made in order to acting like mavericks
deliver peak flavor. Boston Beer was the first company in its
industry to mark its product with a sell-by date that consumers For example, Pleasant Rowland founded American Girl to make
can read and understand. dolls for girls, even though she had no experience whatsoever in
the industry. She decided to make premium dolls that would sell
Most new-luxury companies are very accomplished at at $84 each, $60 more than the typical Barbie doll. American Doll
orchestrating and controlling their value chains. This provides also uses a different design and construction process so its dolls
them with the confidence to be able to go up against the market last longer and generate an emotional engagement with girls.
leaders and win. It also allows them to command a pricing Within four years of the company being founded in 1986,
premium, and to back up those claims with more than mere American Girl had grown to over $77 million in sales. American
marketing hype. Every new-luxury vendor holds true to Girl has succeeded because it sees itself as providing girls with
standards of quality and detail which are uncommon in their an engaging and entertaining experience rather than simply as a
industries. They become almost fanatical about being doll maker and seller. The company has continued to grow by
demonstrably different and better. That, more than anything offering a continuous stream of new products supported by
else, is the hallmark of a new-luxury company. add-ons that build on the original product idea – something
nobody else in this industry has done.

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