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Amidst Appreciation Is Appropriation
Amidst Appreciation Is Appropriation
Mario A. Caro
ARTH 12A
June 5, 2018
I first came across cultural appropriation in 2014, when I saw a picture of Kendall Jenner
donning a “nose ring” and “bindis” at Coachella, the holy grail of all things in trend and
fashionable. 15 year old me was torn, undecided about what she felt. On one hand, I felt proud
and happy that the Indian culture was being not only accepted but made “trendy” too. On the
other, why did it take a westerner or American to do this, why couldn’t people appreciate it’s
aesthetic when worn by the people of the culture it belongs to? In addition, nowhere did she or
her stylists mention and give credit to the Indian culture, from whom they got “inspiration” for the
look. I faced this predicament again when Beyonce, who is worshipped across the globe, wore
traditional Indian attire and henna while dancing in and around religious places. I later learned
about the appropriation of cultures through my sister who studied Fashion Management. But, it
was only after I came to study in this country did I realize how important it was to address
adoption of certain elements from another culture without the consent of people who belong to
that culture. But, if done strategically and correctly, fashion can act as a robust cultural
integrator. What makes “taking inspiration” from a different culture so ethically wrong? And in
this diverse age where cultures are ever evolving and constantly drawing from one another, how
Often people who participate in the appropriation of other cultures argue that this their
way of showing “respect and honor.” But from the popular perspective of the natives, there is
little respect in taking elements from their culture and designs, divorcing them from their true
significance and selling them to benefit oneself. One can show their respect by supporting the
native community itself. They can achieve this by buying from native designers. A great
example of a platform where people can do so is, Beyond Buckskin. This company operates
online and allows customers to purchase indigenous good directly from Native designers,
artists, and jewelers. “Diversity, beauty, utility and tradition come together in the garments and
accessories we share with the world - from our hands to yours.” (Metcalfe) By doing so, one can
help their businesses, and since these designers also understand “boundaries” we can avoid
Cultural appropriation is a result of the oppression of minority cultures and white privilege. In my
opinion, it often comes across as a show of power that the white has over another’s ways. Even
in today’s world where we boast of acceptance and diversity we see that people are shunned for
demonstrating their culture. More often than not white culture is widely accepted as
At the end of the day, it feels like the culture being appropriated is mocked. It’s a huge
slap on the face for that community when, people appropriate the same culture that they
suppressed not too long ago on the basis of their speech, behavior and most of all the way they
dress. For example, through the boarding schools where they tried to make the Natives more
“western” in terms of behavior and clothing. The goal of the non-natives was to “Kill the Indian,
Save the Man” (Ojibwa). Yet, now they are copying their regalia and culturally significant
patterns and reducing them to mere fashion statements. An example of this is the Navajo
collection that Urban Outfitters released recently. The company illegally used the term for a
collection of underwear. When a case was filed against them by the tribe they claimed that “The
term ‘Navajo’ is a common, generic term widely used in the industry and by customers to
incapable of trademark protection,” (Landry). The outcome of the legal battle feels unfair. The
Navajo tribe should have complete control over their culture, and their name should not be used
by big brands to earn profits. That is the epitome of unethical business as, before the legal
battle Urban Outfitters gave no credit or share of the profit to the tribe. The outcome, however,
has made it relatively better for the tribe, as they now have entered into an agreement and will
collaborate in the future as opposed to having no say in what is put out for the public.
Businesses must learn that it is impertinent to channel someone else’s culture and that they
Designers, like the in the Dsquaw collection that I delve into further below, today
heedlessly swipe from Indigenous cultures, it is more than just appropriation, it can be labeled
as blatant thievery and exploitation. The fashion industry must move beyond this fetish of
poaching native communities. Designers must be made aware of the fine line between creative
liberty and pilfering especially if they make a profit off it and those that they are stealing from are
struggling for survival and, land rights amongst other basic facilities which may serve as “basics”
One of the first outcries of appropriation at Coachella began with the native headdress.
These headdresses are traditionally called war bonnets, they are feathered and traditionally
worn by male leaders of a few Native American communities who have earned a place of great
respect. Originally worn into battles, they are now used during ceremonies. The feathers are
that of eagles and are earned through acts of courage and honor or acts that have helped their
communities, and traditionally women did not wear these. Due to the history and importance
pertaining to this piece of regalia, Natives consider the wearing of this an affront to their culture
and traditions, and it leads to controversy. This is partly due to a larger effort by activists to bring
attention to the cultural genocide. But, we cannot only blame the festival goers for this offense
against the indigenous communities. These pieces of regalia became a “statement pieces” after
they were worn by and modeled by celebrities. Although it does not justify the fact the public is
ignorant, it is common knowledge that in the fashion world too, people move in herds. Everyone
is there to follow the leader, or in this case, the new cool trend.
Several brands and magazines have recently come under fire for cultural appropriation.
A few of the incidences are the 2015 Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show where world-famous
model Karlie Kloss strutted on the runway wearing a headdress, and Pharrell Williams who wore
it on the cover of Elle Magazine which is again sold worldwide in 2014 amongst other
incidences. It isn’t the fault of just the brands, the celebrities are the ones who are putting
themselves on a public platform, and they must be held accountable as well. Celebrities are
aware of their influence and power they hold, they often take advantage of this through
advertisements and endorsements deals. They along with with their team must be more aware
absolutely had no intention to offend anyone” but it was ineffective. Their representation of the
headdress had done the damage. A native representative in the same article said, “Any
mockery, whether it's Halloween, Victoria's Secret -- they are spitting on us. They are spitting on
our culture, and it's upsetting” (Fox News). The ignorance of the world famous brand and Kloss,
a renowned model who is highly looked up to by girls with her initiative “Kode with Klossy”
where she helps young girls to learn how to code, came as a shock. After the backlash faced by
Gwen Stefani’s video of the song “Looking Hot” a little before the show, it came as a surprise
that the brand went on with Klosses’ “costume.” Stefani was accused of “debasing all Native
American women" and perpetuating the colonial image of the "Savage Indian” (Elan). It came to
light that Headdresses are not to be worn as a “statement” or for the sake of fashion. A study
revealed that 1 out of every 3 Native American women has been raped or experienced
attempted rape, and the rate of sexual assault against Native American women is more than
twice the national average. And by dressing as a "sexy Indian," Victoria’s Secret and the
models, were sexualizing a group of women who are victims of sex crimes and already
devastatingly sexualized. Pharrell, on the other hand, released a public apology in an interview
with Buzzfeed. And, although that he has ties to the Native American heritage he acknowledges
Another brand that was quick to face backlash was Dsquared2 with their 2015 Fall
Collection which was showcased at Milan Fashion Week. They called their collection “Dsquaw”
The Canadian designer duo Dean and Dan Caten appropriated the Inuit culture, and
described their collection as “a captivating play on contrasts: an ode to America's native tribes
meets the noble spirit of Old Europe.” (Hartford) But, to make patterns and designs that have
major cultural significance important part of a person's culture and describe it as "an ethnic
makeover" and "a folkloristic feel" (Hartford) is to reduce these things it to a gimmick, and thus
devalue the culture reducing its complexity to something that can be made an accessory, put on
and tossed off. Through this collection the duo has disrespectfully lumped all indigenous people
together into one group, robbing them of their individuality and uniqueness. Dsquared2
addressed this issue by releasing a letter addressed to the Indigenous Peoples of Canada
publically apologizing for their ignorance. They also mention that they hope that through their
mistake they have brought attention to the issue and as a result, other designers can learn more
In the images below, we can see that designer Kokon To Zai has used an identical
design and prints without giving any credit or taking permission from the concerned tribe. This
was pointed out by the granddaughter of the “Inuit shaman” to whom the original garment
belonged. This piece held a special place in her family and tribe as the piece was designed by
the Inuit himself for protection. We see designers belittle regalia to a “trendy parka.” The work of
designers is to be creative and produce fresh designers. Here To Zai is not only plagiarizing the
design, but also gaining profits off of this design. The granddaughter made the following
statement, “These are sacred images that they are using. They are breaking the Inuit sacred
laws of duplicating someone else's shaman clothing . . . and for a profit of all things” (CBC
News).
The family rightfully dismisses the company’s argument that the parka was a form of
showing tribute. This is a question that remains unanswered by designers themselves. Where
are they ready to draw the line? Where does their moral compass lie in terms of when to give
credit and give back to the community they are capitalizing off of. One way to combat this is to
include members of these tribes in the process and collaborate with them. By doing so,
designers can kill two birds with one stone. They can diversify their collection and styles with the
help of these native designers while being mindful of the designs and patterns they use. On the
other hand, they can give back to the community and expose these natives to a wider customer
base.
One of the first initiatives of a collaboration that comes to mind is that of Valentino, a
high-end Italian brand and Metis Artist Christi Belcourt. The products of this collaboration were
called “a breath of fresh air” (Jacobs). This 2016 Resort Collection seemed to be the perfect
example of a joint effort and one that other designers would hopefully follow. The following were
the words of an employee that worked closely with the designers, “There should be an
exchange of ideas that can produce garments that are authentic and thoroughly thought through
in order to avoid the common pitfalls of contributing to offensive stereotypes that already exist in
the marketplace” (Jacobs). Several native artists and designers supported this too as this
collection was released not too long after the fiascos in 2015 which have been discussed
earlier. Belcourt also served the environment with this collection as they were very careful with
the materials they gathered for the production of the garments. She also seems to make a
statement with her work as she uses medicinal plants in her designs, thereby signifying the
relation of natives with their land and the environment. Belcourt’s collection came across as a
collection that was inspired by other Native communities without any consultation with the
concerned tribes. Belcourt had done her research before collaborating with Valentino to make
sure their record of appropriation was clean. The reason she didn’t come across this was that
the collections were in motion at the same time. Valentino was also accused of theft of these
designs and faced severe criticism, which as a result reduced the credit they received for their
collaboration with Belcourt. This situation seemed like the perfect example to me of how a brand
can advance and harm itself depending on how they chose to delve into a new realm. The
outcomes of both approaches are apparent. Being moral definitely boosted the brands’ public
image which could help them gain more collaborations with artists of other cultures.
As explained earlier, Beyond Buckskin is an online platform for natives to sell their
products. This website has been gaining popularity in the last few reasons and this article, “Oh
No, Valentino | Appropriation and the Case of the Stolen Beadwork” (Metcalfe) proves to us
why. Metcalfe successfully covers the entire situation and also provides readers with further
insight. She talks about the economic aspect and how Native artists suffer because their
designs are “stolen”, and communities suffer because this leads to stereotypes on the basis of
designs. She also addresses where one must draw the line for appropriation and how
companies and brands can participate in the ethical appropriation of the “tribal trend.”
Another example of such a brand is Nike, that is collaborating with community experts and tribal
leaders to create shoes especially for the Indigenous communities called Nike Air Native N7
which was started to celebrate Native American Heritage Month. Through this, they hope to
support health promotion and disease prevention programs. They have also mentioned that all
of the proceeds of the shoes sold through Native American community centers and tribes are
given back to youth sport and physical activity programs across North America through the N7
Fund. Nike has also used Native sportspeople as their ambassadors on their website giving
In a video documentary review of these shoes, the verdict was mixed. While there were
some Natives that supported the initiative and admit that the shoe is helpful since they have
wider feet that are usually not accommodated by other shoes. Others waved it off as a
corporate manipulation, and a publicity stunt and laughed it off saying, next the brand will come
out with a cap to accommodate the feathers on their head. Critics also call the name N7 a
heritage callout as it refers to the Seven Generations. “The 7th generation principle taught by
must consider how it will affect our descendants seven generations into the future.”(Larkin) This
concept is a part of tribal wisdom and planning. But, in the brands' defense, the shoes are
scientifically made to better fit the feet of Natives amongst others and are sold at a wholesale
What I find interesting is that someone called the “chunky” and “grandpa shoes,” this
video is from 2010. Nike seems ahead of the game. In 2018, in an age where being a
“sneakerhead’ is considered “cool” these shoes would be cherished. The current trend in
sneakers is chunky shoes with some pairs selling for as high as $900. Beyond the aesthetic and
style quotient, Nike does seem to be doing a good job of giving back to the community and
being ethical. The secret to success in business is to cater to consumers’ needs. I have learned
over and over that “Consumer is King.” By catering to this niche market, they have opened up
avenues that were unexplored by their competitors and it might benefit them in the long run by
encouraging brand loyalty. How can one take credit away from Nike when they are one of the
first few brands to be inclusive and bring in Natives in a positive light? Like any other initiative,
they did face some criticism for including symbols of sunrises, sunsets, feathers, and
arrowheads. But, in the long run, I think Nike has had a positive impact.
To avoid appropriation one must understand both, the concept of appropriation and of
borrowing in the legal and business sense along with the cultural sense. It is important for us to
be aware of this issue at a global level. The following is a quote by Sam White seems fitting,
“Just because something isn’t happening to you, doesn’t mean it’s not happening.”
One may notice that even though there is an increase in awareness, discussion about
cultural appropriation is not common in society unless an issue arises. The main problem arises
when the dominant group readily takes and borrows certain aspects of minority cultures while
refusing to experience or understand other aspects. The true problem is when the dominant
culture refuses to acknowledge the discrimination and mistreating of that community. One
cannot claim to respect and appreciate a culture if they do not even attempt to understand it.
Pertaining to the fashion world, designers should be entitled to drawing inspiration from other
cultures, if they didn’t we would reach a global stage of cultural stagnation. Mixing of cultures
can incite cross-cultural communication and learning. The key to this is that they simply take
inspiration rather than mimic the culture, as with the access to information and research there is
1. Adamfilmmaker. "A Documentary on the Nike Air Native N7 Shoe." YouTube. June 23,
This video is a documentary on the review of the Air Native N7 shoe. It provides mixed and
honest reviews about the shoes. This video provides perspective on Native collaborations with
big brands.
2. Banks, Alec. "Fashion & Music Should ALSO Stop its Native American Cultural
https://www.highsnobiety.com/p/native-american-cultural-appropriation/.
Banks' article talks about how we must stop Native American Cultural Appropriation in not just
fashion, but also music. He touches on its use in mascots and music festivals amongst others.
3.Benesh-Liu, Patrick R. “Native Fashion Now.” Ornament 40, no. 1 (July 2017): 54-57.
Art Full Text (H.W. Wilson), EBSCOhost (accessed February 13, 2018)
This article is a review of “Native Fashion Now”, an exhibition at the Peabody Essex Museum.
Cantley, Janet. “from New to Now.” Native Peoples Magazine 27, no.1 (January 2014):
36-41. Art Full Text (H.W. Wilson), EBSCOhost (accessed February 13, 2018)
Janet’s article discusses the fashion designs of American Indian fashion designers and artists of
2014. She focuses on the native elements in their designs. She includes the works of various
https://medium.com/@a.deroche/appropriation-of-indigenous-culture-in-the-
fashion-industry-6f02387ebd26.
This article connects the misappropriation in the fashion world and the media coverage as a
result. A brief history of appropriation is provided too. According to her, “commercial viability and
cultural respect” are two aspects that one must keep in mind, and in today’s world, only the first
is considered. It is the view that this form of "cultural preservation" must be done only by those
4.Elan, Priya. "No Doubt's Native American Video: Why It Wasn't Looking Hot." The
https://www.theguardian.com/music/shortcuts/2012/nov/05/no-doubt-looking-hot-video.
I have used Elan's article on Gwen Stefani's video as an example of the ignorance of celebrities
and the effect it has on pop culture and their audience in terms of appropriation of the Native
communities.
Gatewood's article tells us about the Native American Clothing Contest. She focuses on the
6. Grinberg, Emanuella. "Why Native American designers are not OK with fashion
https://www.cnn.com/2012/11/30/living/native-american-fashion- appropriation/index.html.
This article covers certain appropriations done by famous celebrities and brands. it covers
Victoria's Secret scandal where they use the culture to gain profits and that the Native
7. Jacobs, Alex. "High Fashion Uses Native Artist's Work - the Right Way!" Indian Country
Today. July 18, 2015. Accessed June 05, 2018.
https://newsmaven.io/indiancountrytoday/archive/high-fashion-uses-native-artist-s-work-the-right
-way-KSLfnUHDGUiizdTCdKYQQw/.
Jacobs' article talks about Valentino's collaboration with Metis artist. I use this as an example to
show how collaborations can have positive effects if done right but can backfire as soon as the
brand works without the approval and guidance of their Native partner.
8. K, Adrienne. "But Why Can't I Wear a Hipster Headdress?" Native Appropriations. April 27,
http://nativeappropriations.com/2010/04/but-why-cant-i-wear-a-hipster- headdress.html.
This article talks about using the headdress as a piece of fashion or an accessory. These have
been worn mainly at music concerts as statement pieces without any regard to it's true
significance. The author discusses how this use is popularly but wrongly justified, and why it is
wrong to be using the Native American regalia without acknowledging its true meaning.
Appropriation."
Indian Country Today. November 22, 2016. Accessed June 05, 2018.
https://newsmaven.io/indiancountrytoday/archive/navajo-nation-and-urban-outfitters-reach-agre
ement-on-appropriation-hmU7yHNu606ffn1OOeFRpw/.
Landry's article gives us details about the legal controversy Urban Outfitters was involved in
regarding their "Navajo" collection. They also reference their other garments that have been
10. Lanphier, DJ. "The Awful History Behind Why Hipsters Think It's OK to Wear
ok-to-wear-headdresses#.xvv5mnSrN.
This article focuses on how the appropriation of the Native American culture started. He
11. Metcalfe, Jessica. "Native Americans know that cultural misappropriation is a land of
darkness | Jessica Metcalfe." The Guardian. May 18, 2012. Accessed February 13, 2018.
https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2012/may/18/native-
Americans-cultural-misappropriation.
The author of this article wishes to provide a method to bring the work of Native artists to the
wishes to give a face to the history and people behind these trends. He believes this
appropriation is a "dark place" as people who are not authorized are taking over one and other's
cultures.
It is a website that promotes and showcases the works of Native American designers and
artists. a few years later they added an online store to their websites. They have several blogs
on new artists and designers, and topics like Native Representation and "How to Wear..."
13. Metcalfe, Dr. Jessica R. "Oh No, Valentino | Appropriation and the Case of the Stolen
Beadwork." BEYOND BUCKSKIN. April 25, 2017. Accessed June 05, 2018.
http://www.beyondbuckskin.com/2017/04/oh-no-valentino-appropriation-and-case.html.
Metcalfe's article addresses the controversial collaboration between Metis artist and Valentino. It
appropriately depicts how a brand can further itself through collaborations and harm its
14. “Native Haute Couture.” Native Peoples Magazine 28, no.5 (September 2015): 20-21. Art
This article was written prior to a fashion show. The show was to showcase the designs of
Patricia Michaels in Chicago on October 4, 2015. It was in concurrence with the “Native Haute
Couture” exhibit.
15. Nittle, Nadra Kareem. "Understanding Why Cultural Appropriation Is Wrong." ThoughtCo.
https://www.thoughtco.com/cultural-appropriation-and-why-iits-wrong-2834561.
Nittle's article discusses what appropriation is. It's various forms and examples of appropriation.
She has also devoted a section of her piece to why it is a problem and how one can avoid it.
16, "Nunavut Family Outraged after Fashion Label Copies Sacred Inuit Design | CBC
Radio."
http://www.cbc.ca/radio/asithappens/as-it-happens-wednesday-edition-1.3336554/nunavut-famil
y-outraged-after-fashion-label-copies-sacred-inuit-design-1.3336560.
KTZ is year another example of companies that "steal" from Native cultures in the name of
appreciation for profit. This brand seems to surpass all boundaries as they copy an exact Native
design. The designer and this brand have not been accused of appropriation for the first time in
this case.
17. Ojibwa. "From Boarding School to University." Native American Netroots. April 1,
Christian missionaries to civilize the Indians. I use this information in my essay to contrast how
the Westerners first tried to transform the Indian only to emulate them later.
18. Pacholik, Devin. "This Is What Indigenous Artists Think of Your Hipster Headdress."
https://noisey.vice.com/en_us/article/ryznv5/this-is-what-indigenous-artists-think-
of-your-hipster-headdress.
This article focuses on the Natives perspective on "others" taking over or using their regalia. The
headdresses are earned and can be misinterpreted as mocking their culture when someone
else wears it. These must not be worn as costumes and doing so takes away from "real Indian
issues."
19. Parezo, Nancy J. “Indian chic: the Denver Art Museum’s Indian style show.” American
Indian Art Magazine 23, (Winter97 1997): 44-55. Art Full Text (H.W. Wilson),
The exhibit of, “The Indian Style Show” was one of Native American women’s regalia that
toured in the 1940s and 50s. it was designed by the curator of the
Denver Art Museum, Frederic Douglas. It was one of the most successful anthropological
outreach programs at the time. The aim of this show was to create understanding by showing
the similarities between different races. He felt that this understanding would be best achieved
through women.
20. Scafidi, Susan. "Pharrell Apologizes for Wearing Native American Headdress." Time.
native-American-headdress/.
This article focuses on Pharrell William's picture in Elle magazine. He wears a Native
American headdress in the cover photo of the magazine. This article also covers his apology for
disregard of the culture, examples of other celebrities practicing the same ignorance as well as
21. "Victoria's Secret Apologizes after Use of Native American Headdress in Fashion Show
Draws Outrage." Fox News. November 13, 2012. Accessed June 05, 2018.
http://www.foxnews.com/us/2012/11/13/victoria-secret-apologizes-after-use-native-american-he
address-in-fashion-show.html.
Fox News' article covers Victoria's Secrets' public apology for using the Native headdress as an
accessory.
22. Wang, Connie. "Whom You're Insulting When You Buy "Native American"-Inspired
This article talks about the illegal aspect of appropriation, as well as how big-name designers
capitalize on these designs. They do so while being unintentionally disrespectful and using
certain symbols and motifs which may not be appropriate. There is special attention on
“Navajo."