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ANALYSING SAMPLE PRODUCTION PROCESSES IN THE APPAREL INDUSTRY

AND A MODEL PROPOSAL

Conference Paper · October 2012

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Marmara University
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 6th INTERNATIONAL TEXTILE, CLOTHING & DESIGN CONFERENCE – Magic World of Textiles
October 07th to 10th 2012, DUBROVNIK, CROATIA

ANALYSING SAMPLE PRODUCTION PROCESSES IN THE APPAREL

INDUSTRY AND A MODEL PROPOSAL
Abdurrahim YILMAZ, Engin AKÇAGÜN & Vedat DAL

Abstract: Global Apparel Industry became a consumer-driven industry by developing social communication
technologies. So companies have to response to customers’ demands to compete on the global area. To
gain sustaining competitive advantage sample production processes have to be quickly and effectively.
The aim of this study to analyze the sample production departments by using the benchmarking technique
and develop a new proposal for sample production departments.The study was implemented in sample
production departments of three large scale denim trousers production firm. We analyzed the firm’s
management organization structure, processes, used documents in the department, sample production lines
performance by using benchmarking techniques. We determined the problems and compared three
companies’ sample production departments. As a result after solving the problems we developed a new
sample production department model for apparel firms producing denim trousers. The model can be used in
the sample production departments by apparel firms.
Keywords: Apparel Industry, Benchmarking, Sample Production

1. Introduction
Globalization, acute competition, the information technology revolution, and increasing customer
sophistication are radically redefining environmental conditions.[1] Highlighted by impulsive & volatile
consumer demands, short product lifecycles and low predictability the pressure on fashion and apparel value
chains has become imperative. [2] So companies have to response to customers’ demands quickly to
compete on the global area.

Fast fashion is on being able to respond quickly to changing fashion trends and consumer demands in order
to gain competitive advantage. Fast fashion has its roots in the development of Quick Response. QR is
when companies try to meet customer demand through supplying the right quantity, variety and quality at the
right time to the right place for the right price. For modern apparel retailers fast fashion has been the key
strategy for success. [3] Due to this sample production department in an apparel firm is one of the most
important departments to success in fast fashion. Sample production processes have to be quickly and
effectively to gain sustaining competitive advantage where the fast fashion applications are widespread
usage in the apparel companies.

The aim of this study is to analyze the sample production departments of three large scale apparel firms by
using benchmarking technique and to develop a new model for sample production departments. The rest of
paper organized as follows: First, we give an overview of the apparel production pipeline, design department
and importance of sample production. Then we describe the benchmarking technique that is the research
method of paper in the third section. In the fourth section we give the practice studies about benchmarking of
sample production departments. Finally, we describe a new sample production department model.

2. Literature Review
2.1 Overview of the Sample Production in Apparel Industry

Apparel production design department can be considered as the research and development department of
apparel firm, because it is in this department that the proto-types of garments are developed and prepared
for selling and production.

Figure 1: Design Production Process

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 6th INTERNATIONAL TEXTILE, CLOTHING & DESIGN CONFERENCE – Magic World of Textiles
October 07th to 10th 2012, DUBROVNIK, CROATIA

For most factories the process of product development involves seven stages:

Forecasting: This stage commences with the evaluation and interpretation of the market's future needs in
terms of fashion and price.

Designing: The designer starts by preparing some sketches of the core ideas for the collection and selecting
the fabrics and trim to be used for each design

Collection Planning: This process is, in effect, the pre-production phase of sampling, and the objectives are
to set out in detail the styles, fabrics and colors which will represent the company’s proposals for the
forthcoming season.

Pattern Making: This function connects design to production by producing paper templates for all the
components, such as cloth, lining and fusible materials, which have to be cut for a garment.

Technological Capability: Technological capability of the factory and what it can or cannot produce designed
product.

Sample Production: Sample Production and fitting are two of the most important elements to manage in the
apparel production process. A key factor in achieving agreed delivery dates is the smooth process of
developing garment samples, which begins once the two-dimensional shapes have been confirmed and
specification sheets drawn up. Suppliers produce samples at different stages in the buying process with
various approvals required before manufacture can begin. [4]

The purpose of sample production is not only to get bulk order and also it gives some additional benefits to
the exporters. The exporter firm can estimate the yarn consumption for developing the fabric or have an idea
on costing and manufacturing difficulties by sample production. Besides the exporter can optimize the
processing parameters for mass production, which helps to avoid all kinds of bottle necks. Production
samples, develops decision-making ability of an exporter. [5]

Sampling is a continual process in the clothing industry. During the development of new sample products the
following elements arise:
 New materials and processes have to be experimented with to establish their suitability for mass
production.
 The production garment patterns have to be altered and perfected to rectify faults discovered during the
making-up of the samples.
 At the sampling stage, the quantities of fabric and trimmings are established and a quick costing made.
 The finished sample garments undergo a thorough scrutiny to evaluate whether they fit in with the overall
picture the company wants to present in this particular collection. Then the sample garments are
accepted or rejected. [6]

Samples can range from prototypes, called 'fit samples', to development samples; size set samples,
preproduction samples, shipment samples, photo samples. [4] There are different phases of sampling. The
first phase covers the development of the initial concept or design idea through its approval by the customer
and full review/risk analysis by the development and production teams. The second phase covers the
process following acceptance of the first prototype sample and includes the functions of sourcing and
ordering component, testing the product and carry out trials. Once the finalized sample specifications have
been drawn up, the third and final phase commences. The phase includes a range of activities that are
carried out before large scale or bulk production capacity outside the home producer/developers wherever
this is applicable. [5] Also Fit is an important criteria in a consumer's evaluation of an apparel product. During
the product development process, the main point of evaluation for a sample product is the fit session. When
an apparel firm receives a sample product, it is typically checked for compliance with specified product
measurements, fabric type, and construction details.[7]

Pattern Grading: Pattern grading is the process whereby patterns of different sizes arc produced from the
original master pattern.

2.2 Benchmarking Technique

The most widely accepted and referenced text on the subject of benchmarking is the definition by Xerox and
Robert C. Camp at the end of the 1980s. In 1989, Robert C. Camp introduced a new tool called
benchmarking into the Total Quality Management world. Many organizations have used the tool to improve

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 6th INTERNATIONAL TEXTILE, CLOTHING & DESIGN CONFERENCE – Magic World of Textiles
October 07th to 10th 2012, DUBROVNIK, CROATIA

performance. [8] It has been defined by Camp (1989) simply as ‘the search for industry best practice that
leads to superior performance’ In other words, benchmarking is a process of finding what best practices are
and then proposing what performance should be in the future. [9]
Benchmarking is not just making changes and improvements for the sake of making changes, benchmarking
are about adding value. No organization should make changes to their products, processes, or their
organization if the changes do not bring benefits. When using benchmarking techniques, an organization
must look at how processes in the value chain are performed:

1. Identifying a critical process that needs improvement.

2. Identify an organization that excels in the process, preferably the best.
3. Contact the organization that you are benchmarking; visit them, and study the process or activity.
4. Analyze the data.
5. Improve the critical process at your own organization.

All of these things lead to successful benchmarking a product, process, or area within an organization. [10]

3. Research Methodology
This study was performed to analyze of sample production room of three large-scale apparel production
firms by using benchmarking technique. Firms design collection and perform production of denim trousers for
the famous brands. We first identified critical processes for sample production departments. These critical
processes are benchmarking parameters. Secondly each firms’ sample production department have been
analyzed and observed according to defined criteria’s for a period of two weeks to identify the best firm.
Then we were studied in the sample production room of best firm to develop a sample model. As a result of
analysis the model was applied in firm C.

4. Practice Studies
4.1. Identifying Benchmarking Parameters

Benchmarking parameters for the sample production departments are defined as follows. These are critical
process that needs improvement in sample production departments:

1. Organizational Structure
2. Definitions of Task-Authorization and Responsibility:
3. Process Management
4. Documentation System
5. Planning and Control System
6. Quality Control System
7. Spatial (Layout) Properties

4.2. Benchmarking Results

Observation and comparison was performed according to criteria’s defined above. These studies completed
in six weeks.

Table 1: Characteristics of the observed and compared firms

Firm A Firm B Firm C
Organizational Structure of the Departments
Defined Organizational Structure Yes Yes No
Position of Sample Production Dpt. in General Organization Structure Clear Unclear Unclear
Culture of Sample Production Dpt. Good Average Average
Addiction to Employee Low High High
Definitions of Task-Authorization and Responsibility of Departments
Accurately defined task descriptions. Yes Average No
Department perform activities that is not in its task description Yes Yes Yes
Employees Informed adequately about tasks that have performed Yes Yes No
Process Management of Sample Production Departments
Sample production process have been defined Yes No No
Sample production room have an executive chief Yes No No
Computer aided sample production process Yes No Yes

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 6th INTERNATIONAL TEXTILE, CLOTHING & DESIGN CONFERENCE – Magic World of Textiles
October 07th to 10th 2012, DUBROVNIK, CROATIA

Documentation System of Sample Production Departments

Sample production documents include sufficient details Good Average Poor
All customer representatives uses same sample production files Yes No No
Sample Production documents represent corporate culture Yes No No
The documents have been organized visually clear. Good Average Average
A computer aided system is used in documentation Yes Yes Yes
Planning and Control System of Sample Production Departments
Department has a planning and control system of production process High High Basic
A computer aided planning and control system have been used Yes No No
Time scheduling have been performed for fabric and trimmings Yes Yes Basic
Quality Control System of Sample Production Departments
Department has a quality control system High Average Basic
Fabric test process is performed by quality department Yes No No
Quality control procedures have been written. Yes No No
Spatial (Layout) Properties of the Sample Production Departments
The department has a spatial integrity Yes Average No

Firm A have the best organizational structure for sample room. Management organization chart defined very
well in firm A. Employees have sample production room culture in Firm A. Firm B have a defined
organizational structure but insufficient. Firm C has not an organizational structure. Addiction to employee is
high level in Firm B and C. So when an employee is absent, process can be fail.

Firm A has been defined the task descriptions accurately. Firm B has been defined the task descriptions in
average level. Firm C has not a defined the task descriptions. All of three firms performed activities that were
not defined in its task description.

Firm A is the best of process management of sample production department. Only Firm A has a defined
sample production process. İn Firms B and C processes were managed by executive employees of other
departments. Firms A and C uses computer aided sample production process. Firm B perform processes
manually.

Sample production files of Firm A have good detailed technical information and are visually clear. All
customer representatives use same sample production files in Firm A. Sample production files of Firms B
and C do not represent corporate culture of the firms. Production files are not visually clear so having
information can be difficult in Firms B and C.

Planning and control of sample production process of Firm A very well. Firm B has a computer aided system
but the system is not fully used due to insufficient levels of employee training. Firms A and B have been
performed a time scheduling for fabric and trimmings Planning and control of sample production process of
Firm C is very poor. Therefore the process is not followed up properly in Firm C

Tests applied to the sample fabric have great importance in the production of denim trousers. Because any
error that occurs in this stage can cause problems in the production phase. Firm A has the best quality
control system. Firm B has a quality control system but insufficient. Firm C has not a quality control system.
Fabric test process is not performed by quality control department and quality control procedures have not
been written in Firms B and C

The position of the sample production room in the firm building is important to ensure a healthy flow of
information and material. Firm A has a good spatial integrity. Model makers, sample production sewing
department, fabric store, sample washing department and quality control department was located in the
same floor. In Firm B Model makers, sample production sewing department and fabric store was located in
the same floor but sample washing department and quality control department have been located in different
floors. Firm C performed each stage of sample production in different floors of firm. These causes
information and material complexity.

It was observed that Firm A has the best practices in the sample production room processes. Firm B have
good practices in some parameters but should be practice more improvements. Firm C has the weakest
sample production room processes in the observed firms.

4.3. Developed Model for Sample Production Department

As a result of analysis and review study, a sample production model was developed by analyzed information
from Firm A. The model and was implemented in firm C. Main feature of this model is to produce that have

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 6th INTERNATIONAL TEXTILE, CLOTHING & DESIGN CONFERENCE – Magic World of Textiles
October 07th to 10th 2012, DUBROVNIK, CROATIA

been sold and should be a brand in production; to make customer-focused activities; to do strategic
partnerships with customers; to perform organizing of production processes or product development; to
collect process of sample production in same area in due to have a spatial integrity.

The details of this model are as follows:

Sample Production
Product Development
Management

Sample Production
Process Planning

Washing and
Fabric and Trimming Sample Pattern Sample Product Ironing and
Finishing
R&D Making Production Packaging
R&D

Figure 2. Management Organization Chart of Sample Production Department

4.4. Management and Organization Structure of Sample Production Department

A new management and organization chart is designed to provide a holistic production management in
sample production department. Main features of this structure are to have a process planning and following
department and to have a research and development department for fabric and trimming. Task-Authorization
and Responsibility of each employee has been defined as detailed. For senior managers tasks divided in to
two stage as managerial responsibilities and functional responsibilities.

4.5. Process Planning of Sample Production Department

Sample production process plan was recreated according to new management and organization chart. With
this plan it is aimed to speed up the sample production process. In addition, it is aimed to create an
infrastructure for planning and control activities. Figure 5 shows the scheme of the sample production
process model.

4.6. Other Restructuring Activities

a. Reorganization of the documentation structure: Sample order form and sample production technical
files were created for the customer representatives be able to provide accurate information.

Figure 3. Schema of sample production process model

b. Planning and Control System: A computer aided planning and control system was created to follow
the sample production separately from bulk production. As a result Sample production capacity has been
increased 30% percent.
c. Quality Control Studies; As shown in Figure 5 raw materials and sample product quality control points
were added to the different stages of the sample production process model to prevent sending defective
sample to customer and to reduce the re-sewing number of sample.
d. Achievement of Spatial Integrity; Structural changes were made to collect the entire sample
production process in the same floor. So loss of time, confusion and inefficiency were prevented. The
most important result of the spatial arrangement is to eliminate the defects resulting from material and
information flow.

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 6th INTERNATIONAL TEXTILE, CLOTHING & DESIGN CONFERENCE – Magic World of Textiles
October 07th to 10th 2012, DUBROVNIK, CROATIA

5. Results and Conclusions

Sample production departments are important departments that come before the production departments.
Sample production departments develop samples according to buyer’s requirement and world fashion trends
quickly and effectively. In this study sample production departments of apparel production firms that produce
denim trousers were analyzed by benchmarking technique. A model was developed by the data obtained
from best firm and the model was implemented in Firm C. Achievements have been obtained as a result of
the comprehensive application of the study can been seen in Table 2.

Table 2: Results of Implemented Model

Before Model Implementation After Model Implementation
Lead Time (days) 31 14
Production (pieces / per week) 75 92
RFT (Right the First Time Rate) 65% 76%
Manpower 33 33

Production increased by 22.6% per week of sample production department in Firm C. Lead time reduced to
14 days from 31 days. Right the first time production ratio has increased from 65% to 76%. The rate of taking
orders from first sample has increased. Sample production costs decreased. Customer satisfaction has been
increased. As a result of analysis developed model can be used in sample production departments to
achieve quick and effective sample production process.

References

[1] Djelic, M.: The Coevolution of New Organizational Forms in the Fashion Industry: A Historical and
Comparative Study of France, Italy, and the United States, Organization Science Vol. (10),
September/October, pp. 622-637, (1999) 1526-5455
[2] Pal, R.; Peterson, J.: Measuring QR in Globalised Apparel Supply Chains, AUTEX 2009 World Textile
Conference, Izmir, Turkey (2009)
[3] Memic, M.: The fast fashion phenomenon, Master Thesis in Fashion Management, The Swedish School
of Textiles (2011)
[4] Jackson T.: Mastering Fashion Buying and Merchandising Management, Palgrave Macmillan,
978033801659, London, (2000)
[5] Karthikeyan,G.B.: The Need for Sampling in Garment Exports - A New Paradigm Available from
http://www.indianmba.com/Faculty_Column/FC824/fc824.html Accessed: 2012-04-17
[6] Cooklin G., George.S.: Introduction to Clothing Manufacture, Wiley-Blackwell, 0632058463, July, (2006)
[7] Bye E., Labat K.: An Analysis of Apparel Industry Fit Sessions, Journal of Textile and Apparel Technology
and Management, Vol. 4, (2005), 15330915
[8] Dragolea, L.: Benchmarking - A Valid Strategy for The Long Term?, Annales Universitatis Apulensis
Series Oeconomica, Vol. 2, (2009), Issue 11, 1454-9409
[9] Kozak, M.: Destination Benchmarking Concepts, Practices and Operation, CABI Publishing, 0851997457,
(2004)
[10] Lankford W.: Benchmarking: Understanding Basics, The Coastal Business Journal, Vol. (1), (2000)

Authors:
Abdurrahim YILMAZ, Research Assistant.
Mimar Sinan Fine Arts University, Apparel Production Technology Program
Bomonti Campus, Cumhuriyet Street, 34380, İstanbul, TURKEY
Phone:+90 (212) 240 88 47 – 5668 Fax: +90 (212) 2408847 – 5671 E-Mail: abdurrahim@msgsu.edu.tr

Engin AKÇAGÜN, Ph. D.

Mimar Sinan Fine Arts University, Apparel Production Technology Program
Bomonti Campus, Cumhuriyet Street, 34380, İstanbul, TURKEY
Phone:+90 (212) 240 88 47 - 5675 Fax: +90 (212) 2408847 – 5671 E-Mail: engin.akcagun@msgsu.edu.tr

Vedat DAL, Assoc. Prof.

Marmara University, Faculty of Technology, Textile Engineering Department
Göztepe Campus34722, Kadıköy, İstanbul, TURKEY
Phone:+90 (216) 336-5770 – 664 Fax: +90 (216) 3378987 E-Mail: vedat@marmara.edu.tr

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