Halal Meat Markets in Europe: February 2015

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Halal meat markets in Europe

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Journal of Rural Studies 28 (2012) 528e537

Contents lists available at SciVerse ScienceDirect

Journal of Rural Studies


journal homepage: www.elsevier.com/locate/jrurstud

The growth of halal meat markets in Europe: An exploration of the supply


side theory of religion
John Lever*, Mara Miele 1
School of City and Regional Planning, Glamorgan Building, King Edward VII Avenue, Cardiff, Wales CF10 3WA, UK

a b s t r a c t
Keywords: Over the last 15 years dedicated markets for halal meat have emerged in a number of European countries.
Animal welfare While ethnic stores still constitute the major retail outlet for halal meat in most countries, ‘halal’ labelled
Halal meat markets
meat and meat products are increasingly available in supermarkets and fast food restaurants. Market
Religious slaughter
Supply side theory of religion
expansion has also facilitated the rise of new certification bodies, each with their own marketing
Third party certification strategies and interpretations of what constitutes authentic ‘halal’, who question the reliability of
certification policies that allow the practice of stunning before slaughter.
This paper offers a comparative analysis of these market trends and developments across four Euro-
pean countries. Based on research carried out during the EU funded Dialrel project, it draws attention to
the ways in which EU legislation and WTO trade guidelines hinder attempts to standardize halal certi-
fication by giving equal weight to pre-stun and non-stun halal slaughter practices emanating from
different regional schools of thought within Sunni Islam. Whilst recognising the impact of global politics
on the identity claims of Muslim groups across Europe, the paper draws on Einstein’s work on the ‘supply
side’ theory of religion to demonstrate how the diverse halal practices evident in the marketing strat-
egies of commercial and religious actors are now driving the rapid growth and development of halal
meat markets across Europe.
Ó 2012 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

1. Introduction As the market has grown the authenticity of the halal meat sold
in supermarkets and fast food restaurants has also been questioned
Across Europe halal meat markets are experiencing a period of by some Muslims, who have reacted against the practice of stun-
unprecedented growth and development, though the intensity ning and the use of mechanical blades (in the case of poultry)
varies from country to country. In the UK and France there has been allowed in the halal standards adopted by these economic actors.
year-on-year growth for well over a decade, while in Germany the As Muslims have attempted to reinforce their identity in the face of
market is just starting to develop. The growth of these markets is in war and global politics, the consumption of ‘authentic’ halal
some way linked to the increasing number of Muslim immigrants products e particularly amongst Muslims living in non-Muslim
across Europe and to the growing consumption of meat charac- countries e has risen significantly as the legitimacy of Islam has
teristic of vertical mobility amongst second and third generation been widely questioned (Labour Force Survey, 2009; Marranci,
Muslims (Bergeaud-Blackler, 2004; Bonne and Verbeke, 2007). 2009). However, while it may be the case that some Muslim
Halal meat and halal animal products are increasingly available in groups are asserting their identity through halal in the face of these
non-ethnic stores, particularly supermarket chains and fast food societal concerns, we propose that ‘supply’ side initiatives are now
restaurants, and much as Jewish diners in the US are attracting also significant drivers of change in this context (Einstein, 2008).
large numbers of non-Jewish consumers, so the consumption of Across the EU, an increasing number of religious and commercial
halal meat products by non-Muslims is also increasing across organisations are promoting the segmentation of the halal meat
Europe (Campbell et al., 2011). market through qualification practices (Callon et al., 2002; Tregear
et al., 2007) that have created an image of ‘non-stunned meat’ as
being of ‘authentic’ halal quality.
As Bonne and Verbeke note, ‘halal is a credence quality attribute,
* Corresponding author. Tel.: þ44 (0) 29 208 74850.
i.e., a product characteristic that cannot be evaluated or ascertained by
E-mail addresses: LeverJB@Cardiff.ac.uk (J. Lever), MieleM@Cardiff.ac.uk
(M. Miele). the individual consumer, even upon or after consuming the good’ (2007,
1
Tel.: þ44 (0) 29 208 79121; fax: þ44 (0) 29 208 74845. 36). In the case of meat, the qualification of ‘halal’ addresses the

0743-0167/$ e see front matter Ó 2012 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.
http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jrurstud.2012.06.004
J. Lever, M. Miele / Journal of Rural Studies 28 (2012) 528e537 529

practice of slaughter, and it is therefore comparable to other Islam and to traditional halal practices. On this account, Muslims are
credence attributes that refer to the method of production rather only permitted to consume the meat of an animal if the method of
than to the intrinsic characteristics of the product. As with organic, stunning used is reversible (i.e. animals are unconscious but still alive
fair-trade and free-range products, halal certification also addresses at the time of slaughter), the animal has been blessed by a Muslim
the ‘ethical’ dimension of production, which suggests that Muslim prior to slaughter (the ‘tasmiyyahh’) and the blood is allowed to drain
‘identity’ can be asserted via purchasing practices. The ‘halal’ status completely post-slaughter. If this is not the case, the meat produced
of meat can be ascertained in different ways; it is often tacitly is rendered Haram (forbidden) rather than Halal (permitted)
assumed for fresh products sold in ethnic butcher’s shops, but (Bergeaud-Blackler, 2004, 2007).6 The main area of concern is with
increasingly it is communicated through dedicated labels in non- the perceived risk that instead of being made unconscious by stun-
Muslim retail outlets. It is this situation that has sparked strong ning animals will suffer or be killed. As this quote from the Halal
competition between certifying bodies promoting different notions Monitoring Committee’s (HMC) website in the UK states:
of ‘authentic’ halal.
“Stunning the animal before slaughter leaves a huge doubt into the
These developments have been hugely controversial in a number
halalness of the animal as many could be killed by the stunning
of European countries, creating tension between Muslim and non-
especially in the case of poultry. Furthermore, it prevents the
Muslim citizens (especially NGOs advocating better animal
drainage of entire blood resulting in it being retained in the animal
welfare)2 and also amongst Muslims. Dispute between Muslims
and retained blood causes germs and bacteria, it deprives animals
emerge from debates about the origins of Islam, which Muslims
from the benefits of tasmiyah due to it being unconscious, it is
believe are derived from two sources e the Qur’an and Sunnah.
inhumane to animals and causes unnecessary pain and suffering, it
While the Qur’an provides a detailed and, for some, infallible source
is in reality done not for animal rights purposes, but in order for the
of information about the origins of Islam, the Sunnah provides an
industry to kill more animals quicker so as to increase profits.”
account based on the application of the principles established in the
(Abu Ibrahim) (www.halalmc.co.uk consulted on May 6th 2012)
Qur’an through the lived experience of the prophet Mohammed, as
recorded in the Hadiths.3 Two prescriptive sets of guidelines for halal It is this controversy about the effectiveness of stunning that
slaughter follow from these sources, and it is the underlying drives competition to define what is and is not ‘authentic halal’
discourses as they are now interpreted on which current debate and amongst certifying bodies.
controversy about the authenticity of halal meat stands. Both the pre-stun and non-stun positions are now permitted
The first position is based on an understanding that all people of within the EU. However, the acceptance of Muslim slaughter
‘the Book’ share common slaughter practices and that Muslims can without stunning has not been linear and EU member states have
therefore consume meat from animals reared and slaughtered by integrated the practice into their own regulatory policies in an
Jews and Christians as well as by Muslims. Closely aligned with uneven fashion, often in line with their own colonial histories and
mainstream science and animal welfare/rights concerns, this posi- attitudes towards animal welfare (Bergeaud-Blackler, 2007). In the
tion is based on EU legislation for the protection of animals at time UK and France, former colonisers of vast Muslim territories, there
of killing (EU, 1993), which requires all animals to be made uncon- has been little hesitation in upholding the exemption from the
scious by stunning prior to slaughter. However, this legislation is requirement to stun animals prior to slaughter and dual markets for
interpreted in different ways by different halal certification bodies. halal meat have expanded rapidly. In Germany, on the other hand,
According to the Halal Food Authority (HFA) in the UK, poultry where the state did not allow slaughter without pre-stunning for
(chickens, turkeys and ducks) can only be ‘immobilised’ prior to Muslims until 2002, the expansion of the market has been
slaughter using electric water baths, while ovine animals (lamb, considerably slower. The picture is complex. In France and the
sheep and goat) can only be stunned using electric tongs. The United Kingdom there are now recognisable halal markets for meat
majority of bovine animals (cattle, bull, cow and ox) in the UK are from both pre-stunned and non-stunned animals, whilst in
stunned with a captive-bolt pistol, but this is not permitted by the Germany consumers appear less aware of the underlying debates
HFA because of the risk that it may kill the animal (see HFA, 2012).4 and the distinction is less evident.
The second position, which emerges from a derogation of the The impact of derogation of EU legislation for the protection of
above legislation, allows EU member states to grant slaughterhouses animals at the time of killing on market development is compli-
that supply Muslim and Jewish communities an exception from the cated at the global level by the influence of WTO guidelines, which
requirement to stun animals prior to slaughter in line with the reli- require individual countries to give the same priority to imported
gious freedoms granted by Article 9 of the European Convention on products as to domestic products in order to protect commercial
Human Rights (see Ferrari and Bottoni, 2010).5 While all Islamic interests. It is our argument that this situation creates further
specialists agree that halal meat must emerge from the act of tensions in halal meat markets across Europe by facilitating a situ-
slaughter, adherents of this position, common amongst Sunni ation in which diverse halal practices emerging from different
Muslims, argue that the status of halal meat is linked more directly to regional schools of thought within Sunni Islam come into conflict to
hinder the development of a global halal standard. While the
growing number of Muslims consuming certified halal meat might
2
See the recent debate in the Netherlands (Associated Press, 2011; Berg, 2011; be linked to a number of demographic and societal factors, we draw
Tyler, 2012). on Einstein’s (2008) theorization about the ‘supply side theory of
3
A hadith is a saying of the prophet Muhammad or a report about something religion’ to suggest that the expansion of European halal meat
he did. markets is also being driven by production side initiatives based on
4
It is interesting to note that the HFA refer to the practice of stunning as a means
a diverse range of halal practices and marketing strategies sup-
of ‘immobilising’ animals rather than making them unconscious, when the current
practices of stunning achieve both immobilization and unconsciousness if per- ported by commercial and religious actors in an expanding
formed correctly. However, for halal certifying bodies that endorse stunning, it is
important to communicate to their potential costumers/consumers that stunning
procedures do not interfere with the processes through which products become
6
halal, hence the focus on immobilization rather than stunning. The most common use of the terms halal and haram relate to meat products,
5
The derogation does not specify whether the Jewish and Muslim communities food ingredients and pharmaceuticals, but they are also applied in many other areas
should be local or even domestic, and there is thus great variation in its imple- of life. In meat production, they refer to handling, processing, logistics, food services
mentation, with some countries having more restrictive rules (Simonin, 2011). and animal welfare (see Section 6.3).
530 J. Lever, M. Miele / Journal of Rural Studies 28 (2012) 528e537

‘religious marketplace’. The paper concludes that these develop- non-stunned animals as being ‘more authentic’ halal. The paper
ments are likely to continue in line with the continuing expansion next examines two very different types of market development in
of the global Muslim population and the EU’s attempt to protect Germany and Norway, before providing a more in-depth analysis of
animal welfare at time of killing without threatening the economic the attempt of develop a global halal standard and the underlying
competitiveness of Europe’s animal farming industry. tension between the merits of the Malaysian standard and the
The empirical material presented in the paper is drawn from the economic and religious concerns of the Organisation of the Islamic
EU funded project DIALREL (www.dialrel.eu).7 The main aim of the Conference (OIC).9 It is the divergent halal practices that emerge
project was to improve dialogue between religious communities in from this relationship, we argue, and their acceptance within EU
Europe and different stakeholders, including the scientific policy and WTO commercial discourses, that now play a significant
community, around the issue of animal welfare for farmed animals role in the increasing complexity of halal meat markets across the
at the time of slaughter. A specific part of the project addressed the EU. We now turn to our first case study, the United Kingdom.
transparency of different distribution channels for halal (and
kosher) meat whilst examining the level of information provided to 2. The United Kingdom
both halal (and kosher) consumers and non-religious consumers
(Lever et al., 2010). Given the lack of available data on the actual The Muslim population in the UK is very diverse, thought the
number of animals slaughtered according to halal and shechita vast majority have roots in South Asia, particularly Pakistan,
(Jewish) methods, and the intermingling of these supply chains Bangladesh and India. The population has increased rapidly over
with the non-religious market, this was a difficult task. There is no the last decade; between 2004 and 2008 it was reported to have
obligation to label as halal or kosher the parts of an animal carcass grown by more than 500,000 to around 2.4 million, a growth rate
that are not used for halal and kosher products; when only part of ten times faster than the rest of society (Kerbaj, 2009). The market
a carcass is required for a specific market the remaining cuts go into for halal meat is also growing at a significant rate, with the Halal
the conventional market unlabelled (Bergeaud-Blackler, 2004; Food Authority (HFA), the major halal certifying body in the UK,
RSPCA, 2009). However, despite the difficulties this situation estimating a 30% growth in 2006 alone. However, there is still
created the research team uncovered some interesting insights into a great deal of resistance to buying fresh halal meat at supermar-
the diverse economic and religious practices that are driving the kets and it has been estimated that around 70e80% of all halal meat
expansion of dual halal meat markets across the EU. Our method- in the UK is ‘fake’ (Mintel, 2002). Although things are starting to
ology was qualitative and involved interviews with prominent change as supermarket sales increase, many Muslims still prefer to
certification bodies and retailers in countries that exemplify the buy fresh meat from independent retailers, who are seen to offer
diverse institutional environments and market development across trust in the face of growing concerns about the authenticity of the
Europe. Further documentary analysis was undertaken where commercial forms of halal meat that have emerged alongside
necessary, particularly to understand trends at the global level market growth (Fischer, 2010; Pointing and Teinaz, 2004).
(Lever et al., 2010).8
The paper contributes to the debate about the role of food
standards and the increasing importance of third party certification 2.1. Market growth and development
(TPC) (Busch, 2000, 2011; Eden et al., 2008; Guthman, 2007; Miele
et al., 2005; Goodman, 2004) by looking at the growth and devel- As the UK’s oldest and largest certification body, the HFA has
opment of the halal meat market across Europe. It examines the been at the centre of much of the recent debate and controversy
origins of the controversy about stunning animals at the time of created by market expansion. Set up in 1994 to regulate halal meat
killing and the implications of these debates for the expansion of through the licensing of slaughterhouses, the HFA emerged just as
halal meat certification practices. The paper starts off by presenting halal was becoming an important aspect of Muslim identity in the
some key cases from European countries that illustrate the growing UK (Fischer, 2005). Prior to this, many Muslims considered meat
diversification of the halal market and the different institutional sold in mainstream retail outlets to be produced by people of the
arrangements deployed to address the controversy between animal Book and therefore suitable for consumption.
welfare and human rights legislation. These developments have The HFA has experienced continuing growth in line with the
given rise, we argue, to ‘hybrid’ forms of governance of religious expansion of the UK market and the president estimates that they
slaughter through which competing policy objectives are now certify around 75% of the UK’s halal meat (Interview with HFA
addressed as single political problems (Lockie and Higgins, 2007; President, 2010). This figure includes most of the UK’s poultry,
Stenson and Watt, 1999). The derogation of the requirement to stun which is slaughtered in large, highly mechanised, modern slaugh-
animals prior to slaughter in line with religious motives has thus terhouses where the use of mechanical blades and electrical stun
been put in place, we contend, to achieve more than one goal baths for reversible stunning are commonplace (Higgin et al., 2011).
through institutionalised mixed forms of shared responsibility. This method of slaughter is considered acceptable for the halal
Initially the paper examines market development in the UK and standard proposed by the HFA, and it is compatible with the current
France, the EU countries with the largest Muslim populations. In EU regulation on the protection of animals at time of killing (EU,
between these two case studies there is a discussion of the global 1993).10 However, as noted above, there is no obligation to label
halal meat market and the ‘supply side’ theory of religion, which any surplus poultry slaughtered in this way as halal when it is sold
structure our argument that supply side initiatives are now into the mainstream market.
significant drivers of change in this context, promoting meat from Over recent years the HFA’s position has been criticized by
Muslim organisations opposed to these practices. One such orga-
nisation is the Halal Monitoring Committee (HMC), the UK’s major
7
Reports from the project are available at the website.
8
The full project title was: ‘Religious slaughter, improving knowledge and
9
expertise through dialogue and debate on issues of welfare, legislation and socio- The OIC is an international NGO that attempts to provide a collective voice for
economic aspects’, contract no. 43075 European Union, FP6 Priority 5 “Food the interests of 57 Muslim states worldwide.
10
Quality and Safety”. The funding body was not involved in the study design, data This regulation has now been replaced by the 2009 EU COUNCIL REGULATION
collection, analysis and interpretation of the data, nor in the writing of the report (EC) No 1099/2009 of 24 September 2009 on the protection of animals at the time
and in the decision to submit this paper for publication. of killing, which will be applied from 2013.
J. Lever, M. Miele / Journal of Rural Studies 28 (2012) 528e537 531

certifier of non-stunned halal meat, which was set up by a group of against stunning per se, but in 2010 scholars from the OIC’s Islamic
Ulama (Muslim Legal Scholars) in 2003 with a clearly defined Fiqh Academy in Jeddah made a landmark announcement that
mission to assure Muslims that they are eating ‘genuine Halal’. stunning could be used in the slaughter of poultry (Nazar, 2010).
Whilst recognising the HMC’s position, the HFA president has Similar developments are evident in Malaysia. When the state
consistently argued that with ever-greater numbers of animals standard MS1500 was launched in 2004 it came with a qualification
being slaughtered for halal meat ‘we have to use some kind of that stunning is ‘not recommended’, but in 2009 the standard was
mechanisation, some kind of stunning to immobilise the animal’ revisited with a commitment to accommodate pre-slaughter
(Interview with HFA President, 2009). This argument is highly stunning under certain conditions. All this suggests a coming
problematic for the HMC, who argue that the entire UK meat together of the positions of these two major players in the global
industry is tainted by their involvement in the production of meat standards project, but if we look a little deeper we see that e much
which is claimed to be halal but which is not. They argue that the as EU legislation is a factor in the growth of halal meat markets in
word ‘halal’ is abused by both Muslims and non-Muslims alike and Europe e so the influence of WTO trade guidelines at the global
that, although difficult, it is possible to keep up with the increase in level undermines consensus in the market by prioritising
demand for halal meat whilst respecting what they define as commercial interests in a way that gives equal weight to different
traditional ‘halal rules’. They attempt to overcome these problems halal practices emerging from different regional schools of thought
through a monitoring and assessment scheme that draws on the within Sunni Islam.
authority of Muslim scholars and a marketing strategy that pres- It is at this juncture that the significance of halal practices and
ents ‘non-stunned’ meat as being of ‘authentic’ halal quality. the relevance of Einstein’s insights about supply side initiatives
This position has been hugely controversial for animal welfare become important considerations in our argument. In opposition to
NGOs and adherents of the pre-stunning discourse aligned with proponents of the secularisation thesis, who argue that the decline
mainstream science. The Farm Animal Welfare Council has been at in traditional forms of religious participation signals a waning of
the forefront of this debate, arguing for the pre-stunning exemption religious belief, Einstein argues that changing religious practices
to be lifted (FAWC, 2003, 2009). However, the HMC contests animal now emerge from production (supply) as well as societal (demand)
science’s claim that making animals unconscious through stunning side pressures, and that different religious packages now offer
alleviates unnecessary suffering, and they consider stunning and different benefits for individual consumers in this sense. Discussing
mechanical slaughter unacceptable on a number of levels, as we Warner’s (1993) account of developments in the US during the
observed above. They argue that are not against science per se, only 1980s, where the emergence of ‘spiritual entrepreneurs’ in a ‘reli-
science ‘that might contradict the rules of Islam’ (Interview with gious marketplace’ changed the ways in which individuals engaged
HMC Executive and Religious Scholar 2010).11 with religion, Einstein argues that in a free market religious
Despite these controversies, the pre-stun and non-stun posi- suppliers can serve the needs of consumers by marketing faith,
tions are both evident in the retail strategies of some of the UK’s much like food, in any number of ways.
major fast food restaurants and supermarket chains. In 2009, the Of particular significance is Einstein’s argument about the
HFA launched a halal trial at small number of Kentucky Fried inevitable interdependence of religion and marketing in modern
Chicken (KFC) restaurants in areas of London with a high Muslim consumer culture. As Einstein states: ‘Religions create meaning
population, which has since been extended to many more outlets through myths, rituals, and practices; marketing creates meaning
across the UK (Interview with HFA President 2010). The super- through advertising and shopping. Religion is the acceptance of a belief
market chains ASDA and Tesco first started selling halal meat from system; marketing is the acceptance of beliefs about a product’
pre-stunned animals in 2000; from 2007 to 2010 respectively they (Einstein, 2008, 78). However, Einstein also points out that the
have also sold meat from non-stunned animals in a number of in- relationship between religion and commerce has always been
store halal butchers and specialist world food outlets. An ASDA uneasy. While the process of commercialisation has helped to make
executive argued that ASDA went down this path because they many religious practices e feasts and holidays, for example e
wanted to ‘please all’ their customers, and that the market is mandatory forms of participation in consumer culture, churches
growing because of ‘consumer trust in the local butchers’ they often preach support for those unable to consume in the prescribed
employ. However, market growth is clearly a defining factor, with manner. Thus, as Einstein (2008, 75/6) states, while ‘the underlying
ASDA’s non-stun market now having an increasing year-on-year beliefs are in conflict, the institutions of religion and commercial
turnover (Interview with ASDA Executive 2010).12 culture do in fact support each other in staying viable’. We can see the
significance of these arguments in the following case studies,
where we observe halal markets developing to a lesser or greater
3. The global halal meat market and the ‘supply side’ theory
extent in line with the practices of commercial and religious actors
of religion
in an expanding religious marketplace.

The stun and non-stun positions evident in the strategies of UK


4. France
supermarket and restaurant chains are mirrored in debates about
halal standardization at the global level, where tensions between
France has the largest Muslim population in Europe. In 2000
Malaysia and the Organisation of the Islamic Conference (OIC)
official sources suggested that there were four Million French
collide in a way that hinders the development of a global halal
Muslims, but more recently a figure of seven Million has been put
standard and enhances market complexity.
forward (L’islam dans la République, 2006). Most French Muslim’s
The OIC’s Standing Committee for Economic and Commercial
have links with the Maghreb in North Africa, though there are also
Cooperation (COMCEC) has been working to develop halal stan-
large numbers from West Africa and Turkey (Stéphane, 2004).
dards for over three decades. For most of this period they were
The French market for halal meat has been growing steadily
since the 1970s, but much like the UK market it has grown rapidly
11
over the last decade as ‘halal’ has become central to the religious
The HMC has recently become embroiled in a tax scandal in the UK, which has
upset many in the Muslim community.
and cultural identity of many young Muslims. Unlike the UK,
12
The National Halal Food Group (www.nationalhalal.com) supply’s ASDA’s non- however, where the vast majority of halal slaughter is performed
stunned halal meat products. with pre-stunning, in France most halal slaughter is performed
532 J. Lever, M. Miele / Journal of Rural Studies 28 (2012) 528e537

with no stunning. Notwithstanding these differences, the problems makes it an unviable proposition for the start up halal businesses that
that have emerged as the halal market has expanded are very are emerging across France. It is in this context that ‘self-certification’
similar; market growth is currently estimated to stand at around has emerged as a major issue (Lever et al., 2010).
15% annually, with the market valued at between V3 and 5 billion
(SOLIS, 2010). Research participants suggested that calls for better 4.2. Self-certification
certification have also intensified during this period, and much like
the UK this trend is reflected in the marketing strategies of French A good example of a ‘self-certified’ business is Halaldom, an on-
supermarket and fast food chains. Quick and KFC have recently line home delivery service for halal lamb in the Paris region. Set up
opened ‘halal only’ restaurants, while the French supermarket in 2008 by two entrepreneurs, Halaldom initially sold meat as
chain Casino has introduced a halal line called Wassila. Casino a trial at the Eid celebration. Instead of taking a full carcass in the
decided to do this, they claim, in response to confusion in the time-honoured manner of the traditional halal butcher, the part-
market. However, their approach is itself symptomatic of the ners asked abattoirs for ‘a marketed package that they could deliver
underlying complexity of the market, with Casino initially using to homes’ (Interview with Halaldom partner, December 2009). Nine
seven certification schemes for Wassila, including the HMC from out of ten abattoirs didn’t take their ‘AgneauBox’ e a polystyrene
the UK, a development that led the consumer blog Al Kanz to claim box that holds a 25 kg lamb e seriously at first and it took more
their approach lacked transparency, did not guarantee halal and than a year before they were accepted as a serious market actor.
was disrespectful to Muslims. As Al Kanz (2009) stated, ‘To invest in As a young business with an unusual profile, certification was
a market without studying the codes and constraints is to risk the loss meant to be an asset to Halaldom and they initially explored
of all credibility.’ certification with AVS. However, Halaldom’s application presented
This situation sums up the French market; it is huge and hard to AVS with a number of problems, most notably the company’s role
define and there is a widespread feeling that it is in a ‘mess’. as ‘intermediary’ in the provision of halal, which meant the point of
Consumers are increasingly ‘warned’ about unlabelled halal meat delivery could not be controlled by AVS. These complexities meant
and there have been rumours that as much as 90% of commercial that the cost of AVS certification was too much for Halaldom’s start
halal meat is fake (Le Figaro, 2010). Certification is sometimes up budget and they began to explore the possibility of self-
presented as the solution to these problems, but it has been esti- certification instead, eventually finding an abattoir with an exclu-
mated that there may be as many as 50 separate halal labels and sive halal line and its own certification scheme. However, the
certification schemes operating across France. abattoir is not well known and they only stamp a carcass once,
which means their claims about authenticity are not always visible.
4.1. Market development Nevertheless, Halaldom does not claim that their product is ‘certi-
fied halal’ only that it is ‘guaranteed to be halal’.13 Their success is
The impact of these developments can be seen in the experi- based on a strong communication strategy with Muslim consumers
ences of Group Doux, one of France’s major agrifood companies. Set and the provision of an original product that is compatible with
up as a family business in the 1930s, Group Doux grew dramatically religion and tradition.
during the 1970s to become one of Europe’s major exporters of Although they can never fully assure consumers about the
poultry. However, despite strong business relationships with ‘quality’ of their product, it could be argued that community
a number of countries in the Middle East since the 1950s, and halal commitment plays an important role in Halaldom’s attempt to
certification through an organisation recognised by the French build consumer trust. In line with the Eid tradition, they donate
state since the 1990s, doubt has recently been cast on their role in a percentage of every order to the community, a practice
the provision of halal chicken for KFC. The Communication Officer consumers can follow by donating to a Muslim charity. While
at Groupe Doux argued that this situation has emerged as a direct Halaldom’s approach epitomises a new way of selling halal meat in
result of concerns over stunning and two contradictory tendencies: France, and of doing business well, this innovative new company
a ‘hardening of attitudes’ towards halal meat by Muslim consumers also targets and attracts Muslim consumers through a marketing
and a ‘growing sensitivity about animal welfare’ by consumers in strategy based on the use of traditional Muslim symbols and
general. Discussing the problems that emerged as a result of these language.
developments, the interviewee argued that the meat industry was At this juncture we can observe the relevance of Einstein’s
unprepared for the complexity of the problems that emerged as the argument about the inevitable interdependence of religion and
halal market expanded: ‘And here we open a Pandora’s box, we marketing in modern consumer culture, and of our own argument
realize that there is not one process, that this is history still in the about the influence of different halal practices. Indeed, while
making’ (Interview with Groupe Doux Communication Officer Halaldom’s product is extremely well marketed, their approach
2010). also reflects a lack of consensus in the market. While the owners
At this point, we can again observe the tensions that have emerged believe there are ‘core’ halal standards based on ‘core’ Muslim
as a result of the EU derogation legislation. Much like the UK, the principles, they also argue that ‘greater transparency’ in the market
mainstream position has been challenged by the growth of Muslim would help to reassure Muslim consumers (Interview with Halal-
concerns about the authenticity of halal meat, and by an increasingly dom partner, December 2009). Despite claims to the contrary, there
complex certification continuum characterised by a diverse range of is little consensus within the Muslim community about halal
halal practices and an increasingly blurred boundary between reli- practices. While some producers believe that centralization will put
gious and commercial culture. At one end of the certification the market in order, others believe standardization will curtail the
continuum stand the well-established halal services at the large opportunities it now offers. In what follows we observe two very
urban mosques in Paris and Lyon, which often have longstanding different types of market development, which further illustrate the
business relationships with the meat industry. At the other end are interplay of diverse halal practices and supply side pressures (Lever
a new kind of cultural and religious organisation, the most famous et al., 2010).
being AVS (an acronym for ‘A Votre Service’ (to serve you)). Compa-
rable to the HMC in the UK, this organisation has a growing reputa-
tion for the promotion of stricter ‘halal rules’, professionalism and 13
As in the UK, meat from animals slaughtered according to halal methods is sold
transparency. However, the cost of their certification service often into the mainstream market unlabelled (Bergeaud-Blackler, 2004).
J. Lever, M. Miele / Journal of Rural Studies 28 (2012) 528e537 533

5. Market development in Germany and Norway stunned prior to slaughter. While the Jewish population still
import kosher meat to bypass this stringent regulation, collabo-
5.1. Germany ration between the Muslim community and the Norwegian food
authorities has facilitated an ongoing process of halal standardi-
Germany has a population of more than 82 Million, of which zation that has been beneficial for everyone concerned (Lever
approximately 4% are Muslim of Turkish origin. Although things are et al., 2010).
starting to change, the German halal meat market is still in its Unlike the EU countries discussed above, the grocery sector in
infancy compared to the UK and French markets. Debate about the Norway is horizontally rather than vertically integrated, with
authenticity of commercial forms of halal meat has only recently manufacturers and farmer’s cooperatives rather than retailers
intensified as consumer concerns about animal welfare have forced dominating. The major producer of halal meat in Norway is the
the Aldi and Lidl supermarket chains to think through the impli- farmer’s cooperative Nortura. As well as selling carcasses and cuts
cations of selling halal meat (Schröder, 2009). Consequently, as an of halal meat in the marketplace, Nortura also supply processed
executive from Germany’s major certification body e the European halal products through their own-label halal brand Alfathi, which
Halal Certification Institute (EHZ) e pointed out, because German they purchased outright from a Somali entrepreneur in 2006.
consumers are not overly concerned about the expansion of the Prior to this, the owner of Alfathi worked with the Norwegian
halal market at the present time, debate about the merits of pre- Islamic Council to find a slaughtering method that different
stunned and non-stunned meat has not emerged to the same Muslim groups could agree on, and which the Norwegian Food
extent as it has done elsewhere (Interview with EHZ executive and Safety Authority would validate. As the latter was not interested
supermarket owner 2009). in dialogue, this was a difficult task and it took over two years to
Much like the HMC in the UK, EHZ certifies on the opinion of convince Norway’s Imam’s that Alfathi halal was trustworthy.
Muslim scholars. Unlike the HMC, they work closely with the meat Eventually a small number of Imams travelled to Nortura’s abat-
industry and they permit stunning and mechanical slaughter to toir to observe production procedures and soon afterwards
varying degrees in different areas of production. Pre-stunning is a method of slaughter acceptable to all parties was agreed. With
generally becoming more acceptable amongst German Muslims; the Imams operating as certifiers of halal meat in their own
fifteen years ago EHZ scholars did not even permit stunning for communities trust began to grow and a small range of processed
poultry; today 95 per cent allow it. Fifty per cent also permit halal products began to appear in Norwegian supermarkets.
stunning for lambs, though the stunning of cattle is still forbidden Dialogue has continued over recent years, primarily over the
on the grounds that the captive-bolt method is irreversible introduction of halal chicken into the Norwegian market, though
(Interview with EHZ executive/supermarket owner 2009). Halal there are worries that the encroachment of the European market
poultry is the biggest growth area in Germany, as the regulation is and the emergence of a more mixed Muslim population e
less stringent than it is for halal red meat. This gives producers adhering to different schools of thought e will undermine the
a big advantage in the marketplace and it is an area where country’s high animal welfare standards and challenge the halal
controversy may to emerge as the market grows and expands. An consensus (Lever et al., 2010).
executive from an EHZ certified poultry processor was clearly
aware of this when he claimed that it would be ‘counterproductive’ 6. Halal standardization at the global level
to market his company’s products to non-Muslims at the present
time (Interview with Executive at Anonymous German Poultry As global food exchange has intensified, food practices and
Company 2009). religious preference have become increasingly intertwined
While the German market remains underdeveloped compared (Bergeaud-Blackler, 2007; Bonne and Verbeke, 2007; Fischer,
to the UK and French markets, it is starting to get more attention 2008). Einstein’s (2008) work on the ‘supply side theory of reli-
from international producers and certification agencies. The gion’ provides a useful framework to examine these developments,
German Federation of Turkish Wholesalers and Retailers recently drawing attention to the increasing interdependence between
claimed that German companies would be well advised to embrace religious and commercial culture. Whilst stressing the value of the
the halal market (Schröder, 2009), while the Malaysian National insights that emerge from this perspective, Einstein is also quick to
New Agency ‘Bernama’ has also drawn attention to the potential point out that unlike most consumer goods where demand can be
the German market offers Malaysian producers (Mehta, 2009). How manipulated, the supply of religious goods can only be increased
long it takes for the market to grow as it has done elsewhere because a market already exists. It is here that the supply side
depends, it appears, on the take up of these opportunities by halal changes influencing market growth and development can be
entrepreneurs and on the ongoing attempt to foster halal stan- aligned with the call for a global halal standard.
dardization (Lever et al., 2010). As we observe in our case study of Fischer (2005, 2009) addresses this issue in a discussion of
Norway below, standardization facilitates a more collaborative set market developments in the UK, arguing that the lack of an over-
of relations that negates the influence of different halal practices arching halal authority has left the UK market open to fraud and
and the role of supply side initiatives. corruption in the areas where religion and consumer culture meet.
He suggests the UK is in a similar position to Malaysia before the
5.2. Norway introduction of their state halal standard and that a common
standard would help to counter bad practices and move the market
The majority of Norway’s 72,000 Muslims live in the capital forward. The point about standardization is well made, and well
city Oslo; most are of Pakistani origin, though immigration from debated, as we have seen, in France as well as the UK, but Fischer to
Somalia has recently increased (Statistics Norway, 2009). Animal some extent overlooks the ways in which contradictory influences
welfare standards in Norway are widely regarded as the highest at the global level are driving market expansion and hindering halal
in the world (Skarstad et al., 2007); unlike the EU, where the standardization. The most notable tension is between the Malay-
derogation of EU legislation for the protection of animals at the sian Department of Islamic Development (JAKIM), the state agency
time of killing allows minority groups to practice stunning overseeing halal certification, and the Organization of the Islamic
without slaughter in line with their own cultural traditions, Conference (OIC). It is to the issues that emerge from this rela-
under Norwegian law it is a requirement that all animals are tionship that we now turn.
534 J. Lever, M. Miele / Journal of Rural Studies 28 (2012) 528e537

6.1. Malaysia’s role and influence at the global level the others, differences of opinion are evident on many things,
including halal practices (Wan Hassan, 2007).
Since the launch of their state standard MS1500 in 2004, These differences were recognised by the CAC in their general
Malaysia has emerged as a leading player in the global halal market guidelines for the use of the term halal issued in 1997. Although the
and the major actor in the global standards debate. As Fischer guidelines stay clear of contentious halal issues, they recognise that
(2009, 76) notes, these developments cannot be separated from the ‘there may be minor differences in opinion in the interpretation of
country’s steady economic growth over recent decades and from lawful and unlawful animals and in the slaughter act, according to the
‘centralized state incentives’ that have strengthened ‘halal different Islamic Schools of Thought.’ As such, the ‘guidelines are
production, trade and consumption’. Much as in Europe, there is subjected to the interpretation of the appropriate authorities of the
increasing interdependence between religious and commercial importing countries’, which means that ‘the certificates granted by
interests in Malaysia. Unlike Europe, however, this interdepen- the religious authorities of the exporting country should be accepted in
dence is the result of ideologically driven nationalist policies that principle by the importing country, except when the latter provides
have deployed halal to counter accusations of excessive secularism justification for other specific requirements (CAC, 1997).’ This justifi-
since independence from Britain in 1957 (Fischer, 2005). cation is in line with WTO ‘conformity assessments’, which state
It is these political developments that have driven the rise of that WTO members must give the same priority to imported
MS1500, primarily as an internal policy mechanism, and latterly as products as to domestic products in order to protect commercial
an important global benchmark. The significance of MS1500 at the interests (Lonconto and Busch, 2010). However, as many poor OIC
global level is evident in its citation ‘by Codex Alimentarius countries do not have the infrastructure they need to engage with
Commission [CAC] as the best example in the world in terms of the global halal market, this allows the non-Muslim countries that
justification of Halal food’ (Noordin et al., 2009, 1). The Commission currently dominate global production to export to these countries
was established in 1962 by the Food and Agriculture Organization unhindered by claims for unanimity. This situation is a major
of the United Nations and the World Health Organization to set source of concern within the OIC and there are worries that the
global standards in a number of areas, and the guidelines that emergence of a common halal standard from outside the OIC will
emerged have become the ‘most important international reference further prevent economic growth and development within it
point for developments associated with food standards’ (Veggeland (Muhammad, 2009).
and Borgen, 2005, 676). However, the Codex guidelines have gone
through some important transformations since their inception. 6.3. Malaysia’s trading interests vs. OIC growth and development
Prior to 1995, they were based on a voluntary ‘gentleman’s agree-
ment’, and so long as members did not interfere with the wider As the major halal player at the global level, the Malaysian
process of standardization they could refuse to adopt codex stan- Government finds itself in a difficult situation, pulled between their
dards if they were not aligned with their own national interests; attempt to provide support for their OIC partners lacking appro-
political tension was thus generally alleviated because CAC priate halal infrastructure and the need to protect their national
members controlled the standards they adopted. Post 1995, interests. On the one hand, Standards Malaysia provide training for
however, after the Uruguay round of the GATT trade negotiations, OIC countries lacking the procedures and knowledge they need to
things changed considerably, with codex standards coming under make the most of the opportunities the global halal market now
the control of the WTO, a development that increased political offers (Standards Malaysia, 2009). On the other hand, in tandem
tension by allowing members of the commission to pursue stan- with Standards Malaysia, JAKIM have been pushing a strategy to
dards in line with their own national interests (Veggeland and make Malaysia a global halal hub, latterly through a series of global
Borgen, 2005). This situation is clearly evident in the halal partnerships (Muhammad et al., 2009; Noordin et al., 2009). One
market, where different halal practices are often aligned with such partnership is between the Penang State Halal Agency and the
diverse national and regional interests. Halal Industries Group Plc., a private equity company set up to
promote and develop halal in emerging markets (BBC, 2010). JAKIM
plays a crucial place in this process, putting the MS1500 standard
6.2. Different schools of thought within Sunni Islam into practice through its role as the sole Malaysian certification
agency (Standards Malaysia, 2010).
The vast majority of worlds Muslim’s are Sunni (Map 1), but Malaysia has had some success in overcoming their competing
there are four separate schools of thought/jurisprudence (or priorities, with Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan adopting MS1500 in
Madh’hab) within the Sunni, the Hanafi, Hanbali, Maliki and Shafie, 2008 and 2009 respectively, but their dual strategy still creates
each with different degrees of national and regional influence (see tensions about specific halal practices in some instances. While the
Table 1 below). Although the theology of each is accepted by each of Malaysian MS1500 standard, for example, which is based on the
Shafie School of thought, allows stunning for all bovine animals,
this practice is not allowed in Pakistan, Russia or Poland, for
Table 1 example, which all adhere to the Hanafi School of thought. Such
Sunni schools of jurisprudence and their national and regional influence. differences were evident across our EU case studies, with scholars
Hanafi Hanbali Maliki Shafie aligned with different certification schemes adhering to different
Central Asia Saudi Arabia North Africa Egypt
halal practices within and across national boundaries. As we have
Afghanistan West Africa Somalia observed above, while scholars from the EHZ in Germany are
Pakistan Indonesia becoming more tolerant of mechanical slaughter and pre-stunning
India Thailand in many areas of production, HMC scholars from the UK increas-
Russia Singapore
ingly refuse stunning in all areas of production. Not surprisingly, it
Bangladesh Philippines
Northern Egypt Yemen has been argued that to be fully acceptable to all OIC members any
Iraq Amongst Kurds global standard must accommodate the concerns of all four Sunni
Turkey In Kerala (India) schools of thought (Oorjitham, 2009).
The Balkans Brunei Over recent years, the standards issue has been taken up at the
Western countries Malaysia
World Halal Forum through the ICCI IHI Halal Integrity Alliance (IHI),
J. Lever, M. Miele / Journal of Rural Studies 28 (2012) 528e537 535

Map 1. Islam by schools of thought (Adapted from Hashim, 2010).

which was launched at the 5th World Halal Forum in Kuala Lumpur time of killing provides an exemption from the requirement to stun
in 2010 alongside the first four modules (logistics, food services, animals prior to slaughter. This exemption is motivated by the EU’s
slaughtering and processing, and animal welfare) of proposed intention to give priority to human rights (i.e. religious freedom)
standard conformity assessments for the halal market. The Malay- over animal welfare considerations.14 In the dynamic market for
sian Government played a big role in the emergence of this non- halal meat this has provided an opportunity for new certifying
profit organization, committing RM15 million over three years to bodies to segment the market by making the claim that only
improve access to the halal market for all 57 OIC countries. However, slaughter without stunning produces authentic ‘halal’ meat. The
there are clearly concerns over the influence the Malaysians wield, complexities involved and the lack of clear information and guid-
and this is continuing to create tensions between the OIC and JAKIM ance has contributed greatly to the growth of ‘hybrid’ forms of
over the economic aspects of standardization (Observations made at governance and third party certification within the halal supply
World Halal Forum 2010). While Malaysia is as dependent on chain. The result is great variation across Europe in the public tasks
imports of poultry and red meat as many of its OIC partners, their of protecting both animal welfare and human rights, which, in
role as the major Muslim certifier of halal meat puts them in a much this case, are managed through the performance of government
stronger economic position than most OIC members. agencies, supply chain operators and non-profit organisations acting
within institutionalised mixed forms of shared responsibility.
7. Discussion

8. Conclusions
In a globalizing religious marketplace dominated by unregu-
lated free trade it is perhaps not surprising that attempts to
For a long time, most Muslim communities in Europe consid-
harmonize halal through the use of standards is often equated with
ered the meat available to them in supermarkets and restaurants to
compromise by some of the actors involved (Hashim, 2010). As
be acceptable because it was produced by people of the ‘Book’. Over
Einstein (2008) states, when barriers for entry into markets are low,
recent decades the status and qualification of halal meat has been
and the benefits for suppliers are high, competition for religious
increasingly questioned by Muslims in a number of European
consumers will be no doubt be considerable. In highlighting the
countries, especially those with large Muslim immigrant pop-
increasing interdependence of religious and commercial interests,
ulations. During this period, a plethora of new certifying bodies and
Einstein also draws attention to the potential for further alignment
schemes have emerged to propose different standards for halal
in the halal meat market. Norway provides one example of such
meat with the aim of reassuring the growing number of Muslim
alignment, demonstrating how standards can bring together reli-
consumers in these countries about the religious quality of the
gious and commercial interests in a way that produces mutually
meat they are consuming. It is this segmentation of the market, we
beneficial outcomes.
argue, and the increasing differentiation entailed, that is now
In most European Union countries, however, the current (1993)
playing a significant role in the expansion of halal meat markets.
and forthcoming (2013) regulation on the protection of animals at
At the global level, this process is underpinned by the practices
of the WTO, which prioritize commercial interests. In the EU, where
14
New Zealand has chosen a different course of action, imposing an obligation to
increasing numbers of secular and religious actors are competing
stun animals for halal slaughter and post-cut stun for shechita slaughter (see for religious consumers through the use of innovative and sophis-
RSPCA, 2009). ticated marketing strategies, these issues are complicated by the
536 J. Lever, M. Miele / Journal of Rural Studies 28 (2012) 528e537

derogation of current legislation on the protection of animals at Berg, R., 2011. Should Animals Be Stunned Before Slaughter?. http://www.bbc.co.uk/
news/magazine-14779271.
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Bergeaud-Blackler, F., 2004. In: Harvey, M., McMeekin, A., Warde, A. (Eds.), Social
without stunning. This situation enables new supply chain actors to Definitions of Halal Quality: The Case of Maghrebi Muslims in France, in
adopt and promote different positions within and across national Qualities of Food. Manchester University Press.
boundaries in line with their own particular traditions, establishing Bergeaud-Blackler, F., 2007. New challenges for Islamic ritual slaughter: a European
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Miele et al. (2005) have shown that there is already a tension at the the control and delivery of halal credence quality. Agriculture and Human
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Busch, L., 2000. The moral economy of grades and standards. Journal of Rural
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Callon, M., Méadel, C., Rabeharisoa, V., 2002. The economy of qualities. Economy
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John Lever, Marc Higgin and Mara Miele of Cardiff University welfare issues. Society & Animals 10 (4).
Goodman, M.K., 2004. Reading fairtrade: political ecological imaginary and the
conducted the UK research. Florence Bergeaud-Blackler of UniMed moral economy of fairtrade foods. Political Geography 23, 891e915.
in Marseilles and Maria de Puig of Cardiff University conducted the Guthman, J., 2007. The Polanyian way? Voluntary food labels as neoliberal gover-
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Hashim, D., 2010. The Quest for a Global Halal Standard, Presented at the Meat
out by researchers at Bsi-Schwarzenbek (www.bsi-schwarzenbek. Industry Association of New Zealand Annual Conference, Christchurch, 19e20
de) and by John Lever; Lill Vramo of the SIFO Research Institute September.
in Oslo (www.sifo.no) carried out the Norwegian research. John HFA, 2012. Halal Food Authority: Brief Guidelines for Halal Ovine. Bovine and
Poultry Slaughter. http://www.halalfoodauthority.co.uk/HFA%20Brief%
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Kerbaj, R., 2009. Muslim Population ‘Rising 10 Times Faster Than Rest of Society’.
to Stephen Vertigans of Robert Gordon University for reading an The Times. http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/news/uk/article5621482.ece.
early draft of this paper, and to Jan Edwards for reproducing the Labour Force Survey, 2009. http://www.statistics.gov.uk.
map. Thanks also to the two anonymous reviewers for their Le Figaro, 25 February 2010. Nous avons tous déjà mange de la viande halal ou
casher (We have all already eaten halal or kosher meat). http://www.lefigaro.fr.
insightful and useful comments. Lever, J., Puig, M., Miele, M., Higgin, M., 2010. From the Slaughterhouse to the
Consumer Transparency and Information in the Distribution of Halal and
Kosher Meat, Dialrel Research Report WP 4.4, www.dialrel.eu.
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