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Talks: The Independent History of Getting Wet
Talks: The Independent History of Getting Wet
WET Talks
x = the independent history of getting wet
x
WET Talks
x = the independent history of getting wet
Ananya Banerjee
Astha Gupta
Ria Mittal
Siddhi Agarwal
Srushti Hirde
1
EVOLUTION OF
SWIMWEAR
2
OLYMPIC SWIMWEAR
3
COUTURE SWIMWEAR
4
WHICH SWIM SUITS
YOU
5
CUTS AND STYLES
6
STRUGGLES OF
SWIMWEAR
7
SWIMWEAR MARKET
ENTS
CONT-
Early
1800
Forget bathing suits, these
things were bathing gowns.
The “seaside walking dress”
was the trendy gown to wear
on the beach or when walking
the boardwalk.
0
questioned. The billowy, heavy layers of the 19th century swimsuits were shaved
down by a couple of inches to a light dress instead.
1 9
0 0s
Even though the suits still resembled dresses right down to the collars and buttons
(and were even made from heavy flannel or wool fabrics so as not to outline the
female form too much), the smaller silhouette signaled that the culture was
changing.
Annette Kellerman in a form hugging
swimsuit
119
9
Swimsuit styles stayed stubbornly frock-like a
decade later, but women were beginning to dabble
with the idea that they deserved more than just
to play house and take care of rosy-cheeked
babies. The Suffrage movement was in full swing,
more and more women began working outside
the home, and women began to believe that they
could do just as much as their male counterparts.
For example, we began to see an emergence of
110
0s
female athletes around this time, although they
weren’t able to swim as well with the men when
weighed down by wool pleated skirts.
The 1920s, an era of sexual liberation, saw a rise in the popularity of body-hugging swim
styles. Most swimsuits were cut at the upper thigh during this period, and some even
featured cut-out sides. The flappers were often reckless, daringly sexual, and pleasure-
seeking, so it’s no surprise that their bathing suits evolved to reflect just that. The
suits ditched the sleeves, raised the hemlines, and became tight around the bust and
middle. It was now obvious that there was a female body underneath all that, and it was
scandalous.
In the 1930s, designs
became more creative
in the with the arrival of
stretchy ‘lastex’ fabric
and dyes that wouldn’t
fade in the sun. Brightly-
coloured halterneck and
racer back swimsuits that
exposed more skin were
in vogue as the fashion
for sunbathing took off.
romper suits became
popular and the last of
the knee-length bathing
dresses went out of vogue.
Instead, a flash of leg and a bare shoulder were very much the norm. Times
were a-changing: One-third of women worked outside of the home, attended
universities, and were finding job opportunities that could just as easily be
offered to men.
It was only in the 1930s that women were allowed to swim in public
swimming pools with men.
The ‘30s brought more form-fitting styles in stretchy synthetic fabrics, with
higher-cut legs and lower-cut necklines.
19
19
Hems were up and bathing suits were starting to get their signature spaghe
of the romper that’s so associated with the ‘20s to instead move forward to
the century. In the ‘40s, we saw the beginning of World War II, which meant
family while the men went off to fight. They worked to provide for their fami
for husbands, and learned to depend on themselves to make ends meet.
While that alone might not sew spaghetti straps onto bathing suits, that typ
bolder and more comfortable in their agency.
In the early 1940s, the United States government ordered manufacturers to
etti-strap tops. They were beginning to shift away from the image
40
owards the bikini type of styles we’re used to in the other half of
t women had to rise up to the role of caretakers and heads of the
ily, took up manual labor jobs and desk seats usually earmarked
o use less fabric for bathing suits, and the two-piece was born.
1
9
5
0
S wimsuit designers were beginning to up the ante in terms of what
was acceptable to show in public, and we crossed over to belly baring.
With icons like Marilyn Monroe and Brigitte Bardot, sexuality became less
shocking and more pop culture. Swimsuits were still often highwaisted
and sometimes resembled a skirt of sorts, while the top was usually a
halter/bra hybrid that kept you modest but still sizzling on the beach.
While two-piece suits were common in the years leading up to World War
II, they usually covered a woman’s navel and left only a bit of midriff visible.
French designer Louis Reard introduced the world to the first modern bikini,
featuring significantly less fabric than its predecessors. Its name has roots
in the war: Reard was inspired to name his two-piece after a newsworthy US
atomic test with the name Bikini Atoll. The new design was so risqué that
the designer had to hire Micheline Bernardini, a Parisian showgirl, to model it.
1
0
Iconic women like
Marilyn Monroe were
completely changing
the game in terms
of culture, it became
perfectly normal for
a woman to wear
a two-piece on the
beach.
Second Wave Feminism told
women everywhere to screw the
patriarchy and wear whatever
the hell they wanted, when they
wanted. The hippie era and its
free-love advice suggested that
you embrace your body and share
it without shame. Birth control
hit the shelves and started to
help facilitate sexual agency
even further. A lot of things were
happening in the ‘60s that helped
edge the bikini into its iconic style.
It was itsy, bitsy, teeny, and
weeny, and it told the public “the
more skin, the better.”That was
proven with the invention of the
monokini — the first women’s
topless swimsuit — by designer
Rudi Gernreich in 1964. It doesn’t
get teenier than that.
The introduction of nylon and Lycra in the ‘60s made suits tighter than ever similar
to the costume Yvonne Craig wore in her role as Batgirl in the television series
Batman.
1
9
7 The way 1920s was about revealing the legs,
1930s about revealing the back and 1960s the
navel, The focus in the 1970s shifted to the thigh
and the buttocks.
Christie Brinkley was a very famous swimsuit model
during this time.
0
Australian pop icon, Olivia Newton-John’s hit song ‘Physical’ from her 1981
album of the same name encapsulates the 1980s cult of fitness, aerobics,
jogging and bodybuilding for both men and women.
8
The men were objectified and shown as wearing only Calvin Klein underwears in the year
1982.Swimwear and sportswear were influenced by ‘Sports photography and fitness’
This decade marks the sexualization and eroticization of the male body through
advertising campaigns for brands such as Calvin Klein, particularly by photographers
Bruce weber and Herb Ritts. A new breed of fashion models emerged during this time
and were referred to as the ‘Glamazons’- women with steely inner strength expressed
through finely toned, muscular bodies.
Elle Macpherson was one such model whose swimsuits ranged from common one-
pieces and bikinis to daring and playful styles such as an asymmetric swimsuit that
exposed her right breast, something similar to the amazon warriors depicted in Roman
statues.
1990
Tankini and the concept of mix-and-
match swimwears were the two major
innovations in that genre in the late
1990s. Designer Anne Cole, the US
swimwear mogul, was the originator of
this style.
1870s-90s
1800s
1900s
The “seaside walking People had surplus
dress” was the trendy money to invest in
gown to wear on the leisure activities. Due
beach or when walking to the importance of
the boardwalk. During showing social status,
those times, a woman’s the fashion industry was Come the beginning
purity and chasteness very much influenced by of the new century,
were her greatest society. It was in the we started to see a
assets. late 1800s that fearless slow shift in values.
women first began The Victorian era was
getting into the sea with ending, and with it stuffy
the help of the victorian ideals and prudishness
bathing machine made questioned.
popular by queen
victoria.
lution
1910s
1930s
The Suffrage movement
was in full swing, more
and more women began
working outside the
1920s Brightly-coloured
halter neck and racer
home because of WWI, back swimsuits that
and women began to The flappers were exposed more skin
believe that they could often reckless, daringly were in vogue as the
do just as much as their sexual, and pleasure- fashion for sunbathing
male counterparts. seeking, so it’s no took off. Time of great
surprise that their depression thus the
bathing suits evolved to amount of material used
reflect just that. was reduced to cut cost
however Popularised
after the invention
of lastex. It was a
combination of latex
thread.
Evol
1960s
1940s
Consumerism was on
the rise in the decades
after WWII and everyone
was moving towards
very modern looks.
Disposable goods were
being manufactured
We saw the beginning more, and materials like
1950s
of World War II, which polyester and plastics
meant women had to began making their way
rise up to the role of into fashion.
caretakers and heads of
the family while the men
went off to fight. Hems
were up and bathing
suits were starting The 1950s was the age
to get their signature of girl glamour. sexuality
spaghetti-strap tops. became less shocking
and more pop culture.
lution
1980s
2010s
1970s
1908:
1912:
Women
were only allowed to
start swimming in 1912, and
their suits were made of silk. This
meant that once wet, the swimsuits
became uncomfortably see-through,
so female athletes had to wear bras
and underwear underneath their
swimwear for decency.
1
9
2
1924
4
Newly improved (and no longer see-
through), women's bathing suits
featured a skirt at the bottom to
make them look more like dresses
and less like undergarments.
1928 1928 1928 1928
The women's uniform has a
skirtless option ,but the bottom
of the suit still extends into the
1964 1964
4
196 1 96
4
4
96 1
1
96
4
4
1 96
196
4
1 9 64
1964
19 6 4
19 6 4
1964
1 96 4
4
196
1 96
4
964
19
1
64
64 19 6
1 9
4
1964 1964
1964
1976 1976
976 19
76 1 76
19
19
76
6
197
197
6
1976
1976
1976
1976
1976
1976
6
197
197
6
976
97
1
1
6
6
197 197
6
1976 1976 1976
8
Suddenly, the suits are allowed
to ride higher, and resemble
actual, modern swimwear.
How high is too high? These
swimsuits show more upper
thigh and pelvis than even
gymnasts are used to showing,
and there was no apparent
speed advantage. And for men,
1992 became the year of the
stars and stripes Speedo.
1992
2000
2000:
Michael
Phelps and
Natalie Coughlin
are wearing
elastane-nylon and
polyurethane suits
known as the LZR Razer.
They felt like skin and
almost eliminated all water
resistance but due to being very
expensive and thus not giving a
fair level playing field to others-
this swimsuit was banned from
2008 2008
2008
2008 2008
2008
2008 2008
2008 Michael Phelps and Natalie Coughlin are wearing
elastane-nylon and polyurethane suits known as the LZR
Razer. They felt like skin and almost eliminated all water
2008 2008
resistance but due to being very expensive and thus not
giving a fair level playing field to others- this swimsuit
was banned from the olympics.
The team
abandoned sharks
in favor of more
wearable human
fabric, resulting
in a sleek, bold
look because of
unfair competetive
advantage
12
2016
final “zone of
European beaches, much less in
the postwar United States. Many
contention.”
commentators condemned the
look, and plenty of communities
banned it.
Shape: What to look for: The key to the perfect swimsuit is balancing
your proportions and getting the coverage you need for your
bottom half.
• For a traditional
Tips and tricks:
fix, look for a
clean-skirted
bottom that falls
just below the
largest part of the
upper leg.
• Avoid reaching
for a boy short
or thick-banded
bottom. The extra
fabric will only call
attention to the
area you're trying
to mask.
• Show your
shoulders and
collar bones.
• A plunging
neckline or
eye-catching
top draws the
eye upward,
minimizing the
bottom
P ear it up!
Laarge What to look for: If you're more
well-endowed on top, then
Bust:
support is key. Opt for suits
with underwire or molded cups
to give the girls the support
they need. Avoid ruffles or
embellishments up top if you're
hoping to minimize the focus on
your chest.
• Bra-style
tops with
underwire
and
adjustable
straps
provide
extra bust
support.
The thicker
the strap,
the more
support.
• Molded cups
provide extra
support and
are available
in many
different
styles.
Athletic
Swimsuit growth is very noticeable in the chart below, with arrivals kicking into gear
earlier in the season over the last two years.
What next for the category?
Assess your expectations, this market is not an enormous one – it’s about half
the size of the underwear market globally (which given how often the most of
us wear underwear versus swim, isn’t too bad!). Therefore retailers will need to
keep pushing new trends to encourage shoppers to purchase anew each holiday.
Those emerging markets are a big opportunity for modest swimwear –
swimwear garments with longer cuts or apparel that you can bathe in.
There’s also under-explored opportunity in cross-seasonal swim. Beachwear
focuses on cotton dresses and sarongs, but what about those swimmers and
surfers that are year-round hobbyists? What are their options post-dip?
There’s one segment retailers may be overlooking: new arrivals in women’s
performance swimwear were down by 22% in Q1 2018 compared to Q1 2016.
That runs counter to uptake stats in water sports.
Seasonality of swimwear
One major impact of
the rise in air travel is a
shift in the seasonality
of swim. Increasingly
consumers are
travelling further afield,
and to climates that
are out of sync with
their home territory. The
impact of that is seen
below, with emphasis
shifting out of April and
into Q1.
Luxury swim gets
deeper
In the first quarter of 2016, luxury accounted for
just 9% of the women’s swim market. This year
that has climbed to 16%, with Solid & Striped, Eres
and Melissa Obadash the most-stocked brands.
Farfetch has increased its women’s swim offering
by 349% and Matches by 288%. It’s the global
luxury e-commerce retailers who are able to expand
the swim category most. Their customers really
span the planet – including loyal Chinese markets
– and travel frequently.
The broadening of the luxury segment sees the
average price fall a little, with a swimsuit costing
on average $304.59, down 4.7% from Q1 2017.
Affordable luxury price points and trend will remain
absolutely key to this segment.