by Julia Farwell-Clay

I’ve spent the last few years of

my 6-year-old son’s life learning
by osmosis all about the
geological ages of the earth and
their associated fauna.
Dinosaurs have evolved into
almost every aspect of my life,
as their various plastic, rubber,
and paper mache
representations are slowly
forming a sedimentary
sequence on the floor of my
house.

Steggie was my knitter’s

inevitable, perfect for any
enthusiast child whether they
know a Kentrosaurus from a
Tuojiangosaurus, or not.
 
The spines are created by a
simple pattern repeat worked at
the edges of an untraditional
raglan sleeve.

The color switching is perhaps a

little fiddly at first, but rewarding
when it comes to sewing the
sleeve together as the wrapped
yarns make a perfect set-up for
grafting. 

 
 model: Jude photos: Julia Farwell-Clay

SIZE

Child’s S[M, L, XL] (shown in size L)

 
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Chest: 26[27.5, 30, 32] inches

Length: 13.5[14.25, 16, 17.25] inches

 
MATERIALS

Classic Elite Yarns Jil Eaton MinnowMerino (100% Extra Fine Superwash Merino) 77yds/50g skein
[MC] #4781 Grass Green; 9[10, 11, 13] skeins
[CC1] #4779 Iris; 1 skein
[CC2] #4758 Rouge; 1 skein

Recommended needle size:

1 set US #7/4.5mm straight needles
1 set US #8/5mm straight needles
2 double-point or circular needles, US #8/5mm or smaller
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]

Stitch holders or waste yarn

2 stitch markers
2 bobbins
Yarn needle
Separating zipper, 13[14, 15, 16] inch length
Sample zipper is YKK #5 Molded Plastic Separating zipper, one half each of colors #8675 Vatican and #519 Hot Red from
zipperstop.com. 

 
GAUGE

18 sts/24 rows = 4 inches in stockinette st

 
PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

Seed Stitch (Worked over an even number of sts):

Row 1 [RS]: [K1, p1] to end.
Row 2 [WS]: [P1, k1] to end.
Repeat these 2 rows for Seed Stitch.

1x1 Rib (Worked over an odd number of sts):

Row 1 [RS]: [K1, p1] to last st, k1.
Row 2 [WS]: [P1, k1] to last st, p1.
Repeat these 2 rows for 1x1 Rib.

M1L (left-leaning increase): Insert left needle, from front to back, under strand of yarn that runs between last stitch on left
needle and first stitch on right needle; knit this stitch through back loop. 1 stitch increased.
M1R (right-leaning increase): Insert left needle, from back to front, under strand of yarn that runs between last stitch on
left needle and first stitch on right needle; knit this stitch through front loop. 1 stitch increased.

Intarsia: The colored sawtooth edging in this pattern is worked using the intarsia technique. When working color work in
intarsia, different sections of each row are worked with different colors, using a different length of yarn for each area of
color. When switching from one color to the next, drop the color you have been knitting with, and bring the yarn for the next
color up under the yarn of the previous color before you continue knitting. This will twist the 2 yarns around each other. It is
very important to do this; if you do not wrap the yarns in this way, the areas of color will not be joined, and you will have
holes in your work.

Sawtooth Edging
Note: This edging is worked using CC, at the edge of a piece worked in MC. Every time you switch from CC to MC or vice versa,
be sure to twist the strands (see note about intarsia, above). The edging is worked in garter stitch, with 1 st at the outer edge
worked in stockinette st.

Row 1: Using CC, k1, yo; switch to MC. 2 sts in edging.

Even-Numbered Rows 2-10: Work in MC to edging; using CC, k to last st, p1.
Row 3: Using CC, k2, yo; switch to MC. 3 sts in edging.
Row 5: Using CC, k3, yo; switch to MC. 4 sts in edging.
Row 7: Using CC, k4, yo; switch to MC. 5 sts in edging.
Row 9: Using CC, k5, yo; switch to MC. 6 sts in edging.
Row 11: Using CC, BO 5 sts (1 CC st remains on right needle); switch to MC. 1 st in edging.
Row 12: Work in MC to edging; using CC, p1.
Repeat Rows 1-12 for Sawtooth Edging.

Before beginning sawtooth edging, prepare bobbins of CC1 and CC2. Each 'tooth' requires approx. 42 inches of yarn, and
sleeves of size L (shown) have 9 'teeth' in each color.  Winding bobbins with 304[346, 388, 430] inches of yarn (approx.
8.5[10, 11, 12]yd/7.8[8.8, 10, 11]m) will allow enough yarn for 7[8, 9, 10] teeth, plus 10 inches extra.
If you need to start a new length of CC when working the edging, join the new yarn on Row 12 of edging pattern. Note that if
necessary, edging may be ripped back without ripping back the rest of the sleeve.

Instructions for grafting can be found here.

DIRECTIONS

BACK
Using smaller needles and MC, CO 58[62, 68, 72] sts. Work in Seed Stitch until work measures 1.5 inches, ending with a WS
row.
For size S only, increase 1 st when working next row: 59 sts.

Using larger needles, work in stockinette st until work measures 8[9, 10, 11] inches, ending with a RS row.

Shape Raglan Armholes:

BO 4[5, 5, 6] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 51[52, 58, 60] sts.

P 1 row.
Next Row [RS]: K2, ssk, k to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.
Repeat these 2 rows 15[16, 17, 18] times more. 19[18, 22, 22] sts.

P 1 row. Break yarn and place all sts on st holder or waste yarn.

LEFT FRONT
Using smaller needles and MC, CO 28[30, 34, 36] sts.
Work in Seed Stitch until work measures 1.5 inches, ending with a WS row.

Switch to larger needles and proceed as follows. For sizes S and M only, increase 1 st when working next row: 29[31, -, -]
sts.

Next Row [RS]: K to last 4 sts, work last 4 sts in Seed Stitch.
Maintaining these 4 sts in Seed Stitch and working all other sts in stockinette st,  work in pattern until work measures 8[9,
10, 11] inches, ending with a WS row.

Shape Raglan Armholes:

Next Row [RS]: BO 4[5, 5, 6] sts, work in pattern to end. 25[26, 29, 30] sts.

P 1 row.
Next Row [RS]: K2, ssk, work in pattern to end.
Repeat these 2 rows 15[16, 17, 18] times more. 9[9, 11, 11] sts.

P 1 row. Break yarn and place all sts on st holder or waste yarn.
RIGHT FRONT
Using smaller needles and MC, CO
28[30, 34, 36] sts. Work in Seed Stitch
until work measures 1.5 inches,
ending with a WS row.

Switch to larger needles and proceed

as follows. For sizes S and M only,
increase 1 st when working next row:
29[31, -, -] sts.

Next Row [RS]: Work first 4 sts in Seed

Stitch, k to end.
Maintaining these 4 sts in Seed Stitch
and working all other sts in
stockinette st,  work in pattern until
work measures 8[9, 10, 11] inches,
ending with a RS row.

Shape Raglan Armholes:

Next Row [WS]: BO 4[5, 5, 6] sts, work
in pattern to end. 25[26, 29, 30] sts.

Next Row [RS]: Work in pattern to last

4 sts, k2tog, k2.
P 1 row.
Repeat these 2 rows 15[16, 17, 18]
times more. 9[9, 11, 11] sts.

Break yarn and place all sts on st

holder or waste yarn.

LEFT SLEEVE
Note: The sleeves are constructed with
the seam along the top. The Sawtooth
Edging is worked along the side edges
as you knit, and the sleeve increases
are worked at the center of the piece.
Prepare one bobbin each of CC1 and
CC2. See Pattern Notes re. preparing
bobbins.

Using smaller needles and MC, CO

31[33, 35, 37] sts. Work in 1x1 Rib until work measures 1.5 inches, ending with a WS row.

Switch to larger needles and proceed as follows. See Pattern Notes re. intarsia, if you are not familiar with this colorwork
technique. When switching colors in each row, be sure to wrap yarns tightly to produce a snug join.

Row 1 [RS]: CO 1 st using CC1; wrap MC around both ends of CC1, k15[16, 17, 18], M1R, place marker, k1, M1L, k15[16, 17,
18]. There are 33[35, 37, 39] sts MC, 1 st CC1.

Row 2 [WS]: P to last st using MC, p1 using CC1.

Rows 3-5: Work MC sts in stockinette st, working Rows 1-3 of Sawtooth Edging over CC1 section.

Row 6 [WS]: CO 1 st using CC2; wrap MC around both ends of CC2, p to CC1 sts, work next row of edging pattern.

Row 7 [RS]: Work next row of edging pattern over CC1 sts; using MC, k to marker, M1R, slip marker, k1, M1L, k to last st, p1
using CC2.

Row 8 [WS]: Work Row 1 of Sawtooth Edging pattern over CC2 st; using MC, p to CC1 sts; work next row of Sawtooth Edging
pattern over CC1 sts.

These rows set pattern for sleeve. Continue working Sawtooth Edging over CC1 and CC2 sts; work MC sts in stockinette st,
increasing as set every 6th row 7[8, 8, 10] times more. When all increases have been worked, there will be 49[53, 55, 61] MC
sts.

Continue in pattern until work measures 11[12, 13, 14] inches or desired length to underarms, ending with a WS row.

Shape Raglan Sleeve Cap:

Next Row [RS]: Work CC1 sts in pattern; using MC, k21[22, 23, 25], place all CC1 and MC sts just worked on st holder; BO
7[9, 9, 11] sts, k to end of MC sts; work CC2 sts in pattern.

As you work raglan sleeve cap, stop working Sawtooth Edging when there are not enough rows left to work another 12-row
repeat. (When there are 12[12, 12, 13] MC sts or fewer remaining, there will not be enough rows to work another repeat of
edging.) After working Row 11 of last repeat of edging pattern, break CC and draw through last CC st.

Work 1 WS row in pattern.

Next Row [RS]: K2, ssk, work in pattern to end.
Repeat these 2 rows 15[16, 17, 18] times more. 5[5, 5, 6] sts.
Break yarn and place all sts on st holder or waste yarn.
Place held sts of other half of sleeve
on needle with WS facing and rejoin
MC (CC1 should still be attached).

Work 1 WS row in pattern.

Next Row [RS]: Work in pattern to last
4 sts, k2tog, k2.
Repeat these 2 rows 15[16, 17, 18]
times more. 5[5, 5, 6] sts.
Break yarn and place all sts on st
holder or waste yarn.

RIGHT SLEEVE
Prepare bobbins as for left sleeve.

Using smaller needles and MC, CO

31[33, 35, 37] sts. Work in 1x1 Rib until
work measures 1.5 inches, ending
with a WS row.

Switch to larger needles and proceed

as follows.

Row 1 [RS]: Using MC, k15[16, 17, 18],

M1R, place marker, k1, M1L, k15[16,
17, 18]. 33[35, 37, 39] sts.

Row 2 [WS]: CO 1 st using CC1; wrap

MC around both ends of CC1, p to
end.

Row 3 [RS]: K to last st using MC, p1

using CC1.

Rows 4-6: Work MC sts in stockinette

st, working Rows 1-3 of Sawtooth
Edging over CC1 section.

Row 7 [RS]: CO 1 st using CC2; wrap

MC around both ends of CC2, k to
marker, M1R, slip marker, k1, M1L, k to
CC1 sts, work next row of edging
pattern.

Row 8 [WS]: Work next row of edging

pattern over CC1 sts; using MC, p to marker, M1R, slip marker, k1, M1L, k to last st, p1 using CC2.

Row 9 [RS]: Work Row 1 of Sawtooth Edging pattern over CC2 st; using MC, p to CC1 sts; work next row of Sawtooth Edging
pattern over CC1 sts.

Pattern is established for right sleeve. Continue as for left sleeve, working edgings as set.
FINISHING

Lightly block all pieces.

Using MC, graft edges of each sleeve together as shown.
Sew back to fronts along side seams. Sew sleeves into raglan armholes. Weave in ends.

Hood:
Place all held sts of front, back and sleeves on larger needles with RS facing and join MC. 57[56, 64, 68] sts on needle.

Set-up Row [RS]: Work 4 sts in Seed Stitch, k4[4, 6, 6], k2tog, k8[8, 8, 10], k2tog, k3[2, 3, 2], place marker, k11[12, 14, 16],
place marker, k3[2, 3, 2], k2tog,  k8[8, 8, 10], k2tog, k4[4, 6, 6], work last 4 sts in Seed Stitch. 53[52, 60, 64] sts.
Work 5[5, 7, 7] rows in stockinette st, maintaining 4 sts at each edge in Seed Stitch.

Increase Row [RS]: Work in pattern to first marker, M1R, slip marker, k to next marker, slip marker, M1L, work in pattern to
end.
Work 3 rows in pattern.
Repeat these 4 rows 5[5, 6, 6] times more. 65[64, 74, 78] sts.

Continue in pattern until hood measures 10[10, 11, 11] inches, ending with a RS row. Break yarn, leaving a tail twice as long
as the width of the hood.

Slip sts to two double-point or circular needles, placing half of sts on each needle, and fold hood in half with WS together,
so that front edges meet. Graft sts of Seed Stitch edging together, then join remaining sts using Three Needle Bind Off. This
will form a ridge on outside of hood.

Sawtooth Hood Trim:

Using CC2, CO 2 sts.
Row 1: K1, yo, k1. 3 sts.
Even-Numbered Rows 2-10: P1, k to last st, p1.
Row 3: K2, yo, k1. 4 sts.
Row 5: K3, yo, k1. 5 sts.
Row 7: K4, yo, k1. 6 sts.
Row 9: K5, yo, k1. 7 sts.
Row 11: BO 5 sts, k1. 2 sts.
Row 12: P2.
Repeat Rows 1-12 until straight edge of trim is same length as hood bind-off ridge or slightly shorter, ending with Row 10.
BO all sts. Break yarn, leaving a long tail.

Make a second piece of trim in the same way using CC1, but work one less repeat than CC2 trim.

Sew trim to hood along either side of bind-off ridge, off-setting so that points of CC1 trim fall between points of CC2 trim.
Weave in all ends.

Pin and baste zipper inside front edges, then sew securely in place. If desired, sew twill tape or grosgrain ribbon over edges
of zipper tape.
ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Julia Farwell-Clay is the features editor over at Twist Collective, and sometimes
even writes for her own blog, Moth Heaven.

She also prefers the Jurassic to the Cretaceous, in case anyone’s asking.

Pattern & images © 2009 Julia Farwell-Clay. Contact Julia