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How To Soundproof A Room For Music Recording: What Soundproofing Does NOT Do
How To Soundproof A Room For Music Recording: What Soundproofing Does NOT Do
How To Soundproof A Room For Music Recording: What Soundproofing Does NOT Do
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And ideally, any recording studio should use a combination of BOTH. But for now, if acoustic treatment is what
you want…check out this article instead:
But until you’ve recorded in a room that ISN’T soundproofed, you probably don’t realize how much noise actually
exists. For example:
1. Adding Mass
2. Damping
3. Decoupling
4. Filling Air Gaps
1. Adding Mass/Density
20-30 is poor
30-40 is average
40-50 is good
The other metric used is Sound Transmission Loss (STL), which some say is better because it measures
isolation in dB at specific frequency bands…
While STC uses just one number for the entire frequency spectrum, which can often be misleading in terms of
actual performance.
Up next…
2. Damping
Similar to adding mass, damping is a method of soundproofing that dissipates
kinetic energy from sound waves by converting it to heat.
You can easily create a make-shift sound barrier for your studio that can be
added to any area of the room, including the floor, ceiling, walls, or even the
door.
Up next…
3. Decoupling
Whenever two structures in your room are in direct contact with each other…
Using a combination of these techniques, any type of resonance that develops in the room can be contained to its
original source, instead of amplified by the surrounding surfaces.
Up next…
Because even after completing the first 3 tasks, any open spaces still
offer an easy passage for sound to sneak through.
Which is why most home studios either skip it entirely, or just do the best they can with limited resources. And
that’s totally fine…
Because while outside noises can be annoying at times, they’re usually periodic, so you can still find those quiet
hours during the day to work in peace, even with no soundproofing whatsoever.
Inside noises on the other hand, such as those from your computer, are constant…which makes it much harder to
find suitable work-arounds.
So up next…
The fact is: when laptops get hot, the fans engage and they
get noisy.
Up next…
3. Get an Isobox
The Isobox, pictured to the right, is a high-end rack that solves a number
of problems that normal racks don’t address.
Many people have seen great success by building their own “DIY Isobox”
out of plywood and acoustic foam.
For an example of how it’s done, check out this video: (This guy uses it for his guitar amp, but a similar one could
be built for a computer as well.)
Anytime you place a computer inside such an enclosure, it runs the risk of overheating. With your own design, be
VERY careful to allow for adequate ventilation, and proceed at your own risk.
Having multiple rooms makes it easy to keep computer noise far away
from your mics.
At home though, the best you can usually do is keep your computer in a
nearby bedroom by itself.
While no single strategy will work for all rooms, some of the more
popular methods people use include:
So your best bet is to examine the layout of your room, and decide which of these methods will work best in your
situation.
Up next…
And while you’d think the simple solution would be to just turn
off the air while you record…
Many folk don’t realize this…but a big portion of A/C noise comes not from the unit itself, but from the
world outside.
With window A/C’s, every little crack leaves an opening for sound to leak through.
So make sure it’s sealed up air-tight. And if you must, get a professional to help you re-install it.
With central A/C’s , sometimes the problem isn’t the compressor or the fan, but the vent itself.
So to be on the safe side, remove any vents covering the air ducts in the room.
As a side benefit, this can also provide for more efficient cooling through better airflow, possibly allowing you to run
the A/C on a lower setting as well.
Much like the DIY Isobox we covered earlier, a simple A/C sound dampener can be built with just some plywood,
acoustic foam, and a little bit of handiwork.
Now just like every other tip in this post, sound dampeners work KINDA, but not COMPLETELY.
And if the 3 previous tips combined aren’t enough to solve the problem, it could be because your current A/C just
isn’t up to par.
Starting with…
1. Portable A/C’s
2. Window A/C’s
3. Central A/C’s
4. Split Ductless A/C’s
1. Portable A/C’s
Because they’re easy-to-move and require no installation, Portable A/C’s might
seem appealing for home recording…
But the truth is…they’re the worst of the 4 options. And here’s why:
So if you currently use a portable A/C, I highly suggest exploring other options.
2. Window A/C’s
I say LESS noisy because personally, every window A/C I’ve ever tried was
still too loud for recording. According to some sources though, the
newest models have become much quieter.
3. Central A/C’s
A HUGE step up from window A/C’s, Central A/C’s cool the entire house,
instead of just one room.
The only catch is…the house MUST-HAVE high quality air ducts to in order to
provide adequate airflow with minimal noise.
And unfortunately, most houses have crappy ducts, and some don’t have any at all.
For a studio in need of some quiet cooling, split ductless A/C’s may be the
ideal option, because just like Window A/C’s…
While I don’t normally like to recommend specific products unless I’ve tried them myself, if your REALLY want a
suggestion on where to start looking, the Mitsubishi MSZ-GE Series Ultra Quiet Air Conditioners look
EXTREMELY promising:
Our indoor units are some of the quietest in the industry, operating at a noise level of as low as 19
dB. To put that into perspective, consider that background noise in a library is 30dB.
One useful tip worth mentioning is: Buy a model designed for a room BIGGER than your own. That way, to keep
YOUR room cool, it can operate at a lower setting, and stay quiet as quiet as possible.
And instead rely entirely upon noise reduction plugins, which have become increasingly popular in recent years.
But the problem with these plugins is…they can’t remove the bad sound (the noise) without seriously degrading
the quality of the good sound (the music).
And they really aren’t meant to. Because originally, these plugins were designed for audio forensics…NOT music.
So the better strategy is to working on eliminating noise BEFORE it gets recorded…not AFTER.
And using your own combination of the methods outlined in this post, you should have no problem doing exactly
that.