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6 The Poetry of Fashion Design Paz Diman PDF
6 The Poetry of Fashion Design Paz Diman PDF
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FASHION DESIGN
A CELEBRATION OF THE WORLD'S MOST INTERESTING
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Copyright © 2011 by mao mao publications
First published in 2011 in the United States of America by
Rockport Publishers, a member of Quayside Publishing Group
100 Cummings Center
Suite 406-L
Beverly, MA 01915-6101
Telephone : (978) 282-9590
Fax: (978) 283-2742
www.rockpub.com
ISBN-13: 978-1-59253-715-0
ISBN-10: 1-59253-715-4
10987654321
Editorial Project:
maomao publications
Via Laietana, 32 4th fl. of. 104
08003 Barcelona, Espana
Tel.: +34932688088
Fax: +34933174208
www.maomaopublications.com
Printed in
All rights reserved . No part of this book may be used or reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permis-
sion except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews .
maomao affirms that it possesses all the necessary rights for the publication of this material and has duly paid all royal-
ties related to the authors' and photographers' rights. mao mao also affirms that it has violated no property rights and
has respected common law, all authors' rights and other rights that could be relevant. Finally, mao mao affirms that this
book contains no obscene nor slanderous material.
Whole or partial reproduction of this book without editor authorization infringes reserved rights; any utilization must
be previously requested .
7 Introduction 190 Katie Eary
10 8045 198 Khalid AI Qasimi
16 Aldo Lanzini 204 Kristofer Kongshaug
22 Alejandra Quesada 210 Ksubi
32 Andrea Cammarosano 216 Kumiko Watari
36 Andrea Llosa 224 Lino Villaventura
42 Antonio Azzuolo 230 Louisa Parris
46 Barbara f Gongini 240 Lucile Puton
54 Bibian Blue 246 Maison Martin Margiela
60 c.neeon 256 Mary Wing To
68 Capara 262 Matohu
76 Dassios 268 Maxjenny
82 Deryck Walker 272 Michael Sontag
86 Dino Alves 278 Miriam Ponsa
94 Dora Abodi 288 Moi Multiple
100 EI Delgado Buil 296 Natsumi Zama
106 Femme Maison 302 Poti Poti
114 Friederike von Wedel-Parlow 308 Robert Geller
120 Gareth Moody 314 Roberta Furnaletto
128 George Bezhanishvili 322 Saara Lepokorpi
136 Gudrun & Gudrun 332 Toga
142 Heidi Ackerman 340 Txell Miras
152 Hilda Maha 348 Ute Ploier
158 House of Diehl 356 Vladimir Karaleev
164 Ilaria Nistri 362 Walter Van Beirendonck
168 Iris van Herpen 370 Yiorgos Eleftheriades
176 Juan Antonio Avalos 376 Yong Kyun Shin
182 Karishma Shahani
"Eat, drink, swallow my letter, carry it, trans- support. Cloth ing covers the certainty that we
port it in you, like the law of a writing become exist through a perfect machine wrapped in
your body (...)." Jacques Derrida skin, in flesh.
The designers use the language, the sto-
In The Fashion System, the French sem ioti- ries they imagine for each collection as a start-
cian Roland Barthes envisioned a three-pillar ing point and a practical ability to create life
structure that served to explain this phenom- through patterns, seams and fabric. Playing
enon that is so elusive and difficult to charac- with the meaning of words (feminine, ethe-
terize . Barthes says there is always "image- real, androgynous, magic, beauty) is implicit
clothing," captured in the photography, then in the garments through which the designers
a "written-garment," which responds to its speak to us about their feelings, in an eternal
description in words, and "real-clothing," battle between industry, trends, art and cre-
which is the design that exists beyond the ation.
lighting of the photography, fashion design, This book is a selection of individual
the pose of the model and the language that worlds, the work of those designers who do
builds it with words . not create fashion, but poems that clothe the
Years later, this structural thinking was body, sometimes changing it and subverting
transformed with postmodernism. It was then, its shape. Gudrun & Gudrun's universe of deli-
when Jacques Derrida proposed the decon- cate wool, Heidi Ackerman's three-dimension-
struction, disarming our images and beliefs al sculptures, Boas Kristjimsson and George
and uncovering the metaphorical construc- Bezhanishvili's unintentional strength, color,
tions accumulated within the concept. and youth, Barbara f Gongini's commitment,
One of the writings of this second think- Alejandra Quesada's fragile delicacy, the in-
er is entitled "Che cos'e poetry?" And in it comparable Walter Van Beirendonck's loyalty
Derrida describes poetry as a hedgehog that to such an individual vision, who, in fact, uses
may seem helpless but, on the alert, it is real- the slogan "Skin Poets Unite" in his Read My
ly powerful. Similarly, the poetic construction Skin collection ... And these are only a hand-
shows its different meanings. The hedgehog's ful of names of those who are not resigned to
spines, whose tips point to the infinite, are be restricted by the market's limitations, but
like the power of words that flow through the play, imagine and create simply because they
heart, intimidate us and move us. cannot stop.
Today, the fashion industry moves between The transgression of the volume, the per-
these two universes . Barthes' pillars put us in fection of the patterns, the beauty of what you
front of an industry that sometimes may seem cannot categorize, the strength of the poetry
frivolous, and the description of Derrida's po- of fashion hastily infiltrates the pages of this
etry brings us closer to the private worlds of book.
the creators. In between lies the body, the
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erence of the fashion industry with its unique
personality confi rm the recognition of this
house that today functions as a group.
Its collections branch into different lines
and disciplines, including the design of ob-
jects, publications, perfumes and accesso-
ries. These include the Artisanal Collection,
consisting of handmade items designed us-
ing curious materials. In constant evolution, la
Maison Martin Margiela is an institution that
regenerates itself with each new collection,
based on the frontier between design, experi-
mentation and art.
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identify an external
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The different
garments are linked
by an experimental
sequence that uses
folds and the traditional
forms of the kimono as its
backbone.
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The designer
works with puffed
garments, in which
volumes are sustained
invisibly and display a
flawless technique.
is a fantasy that
combines color stains
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delicacy.
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fashion illustration .
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the presentation of the
collection, because the
accessories and finishes
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Take a W-ride is
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the prints.
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The juxtapositions
of patterns and
colors are not only
key for Read My Skin,
but also an element that
is ever-present in the
designer's work.