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Ohanaware S Guide To HDR Photography
Ohanaware S Guide To HDR Photography
Ohanaware’s guide to
HDR Photography
Preface
Like those of you who are eagerly reading this guide, I too am interested in learning HDR
Photography and I practice HDR Photography as often as possible. HDR Photography can
produce some amazing results, that are simply not possible otherwise. When I first started
to learn HDR, I read as many different tutorials as possible. Most of these tutorials are
geared towards using equipment and software that would tally into the thousands of
dollars range. This was disappointing and frustrating, why should HDR Photography only
be for those who can afford it?
So I set about researching and developing ways to create HDR photos without the need to
spend thousands of dollars, in fact my mission was to enable you to enjoy the world of
HDR without spending a penny! I have discovered and written about 6 methods, each
with a list of requirements and various advantages/disadvantages. I’ve written which one I
think yields the best result, and provided an example of each method, allowing you to
judge with your own eyes. There should be a method that will work with your current digital
camera.
To end the guide, I’ve written about some equipment I’ve purchased to aid me with HDR
Photography and why I purchased it.
Finally thanks to my wife, who’s sat by my side in the cold, the wet and the blistering heat
while I take photo after photo.
Sam Rowlands
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Ohanawareʼs guide to HDR Photography
Contents
HDR Software:
This list only features software that was made available or updated in 2009.
Name Version Price URL
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Ohanawareʼs guide to HDR Photography
Single photo direct from the camera HDR, created from 5 exposures
HDR stands for High Dynamic Range, which basically means an image which can store
more light values than traditional digital cameras & computer can display. All this
information is then compressed in such a manor that it can either produce a more realistic
image or a more dramatic and punchier image. Notice in the right hand image, the clouds
are visible, where as they’re lost in the highlights of the left hand image.
Below are the 5 exposures that were used to create the above HDR, you can clearly see
the difference in light ranges.
Using some math, the light value for each pixel is calculated based upon all these different
exposures, it’s then stored using a higher precision system than the traditional image
methods. Once it’s finished the dynamic light range is too vast to be shown on a computer
screen, so we have to have to use some more math to compress the light values down to
a range that can be displayed on a computer screen. The last stage is called tone
mapping.
On the next page you’ll see a table, which tries to demonstrate the differences in light
ranges.
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Ohanawareʼs guide to HDR Photography
Human Eyes:
Multi-Exposures:
HDR Image:
The first thing you’ll notice when looking at this table, is that the human eye can see a
broader range of light than a Digital Camera can capture or than a Computer screen can
display.
The you can see that the multiple exposures gather a similar range of light and once
processed produce a High Dynamic Range Image which contains a light range close to
the human eye.
Lastly, the tone mapped image has compressed this light range so it’ll fit onto a LDR (Low
Dynamic Range) display.
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Ohanawareʼs guide to HDR Photography
Let’s start by looking at the various methods, required features and the quality of the result.
You may wish to double check with your camera manual to see if your camera has such a
feature or how to use such a feature. Once you’ve decided on which method is suitable
click on the method header to read the guide for that method.
Requires: Auto Exposure Bracket (also known as AEB) Function and a tripod.
Advantages Disadvantages
Wider range than a single photo or RAW. Requires setting up the tripod.
Requires: Tripod
Advantages Disadvantages
Wider range than a single photo or RAW. Have to adjust settings per exposure.
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Ohanawareʼs guide to HDR Photography
Advantages Disadvantages
Wider range than a single photo or RAW. Too much movement will ruin the HDR.
Advantages Disadvantages
Wider light range than a single photo. Final HDR can be quite noisy.
Can be used for motion or in windy Some HDR software won’t use a single
conditions. RAW.
No Requirements
Advantages Disadvantages
Single press of the shutter. Not enough light range to create an HDR,
can only tone map the images.
Can capture motion or in windy conditions. Some HDR software won’t use a single
JPEG.
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Ohanawareʼs guide to HDR Photography
When shooting bracketed images for HDR processing, you should shoot in an
"Aperture Priority Mode" so that each image has the same aperture. This
prevents problems caused when the camera in its default mode if it decides to
shoot your set of images at different apertures (which will cause image alignment
problems due to depth-of-field differences.)
The Auto Bracket is the best way to product high quality and perfectly aligned HDR
images. It’s the most heaviest on requirements as it requires your camera to have an Auto
Exposure Bracket function and a Tripod. You may wish to check with your camera’s
manual to see if it has such a function and how to use the function. To continue, I’m going
to assume that you have a tripod, the Auto Exposure Function and know how to use them.
2. Setup your camera so that you are ready to take the photo.
3. If you have the capability to manually specify the white balance do so, also if your
camera features a focus lock (AF/AE Lock) or manual focus, focus the camera on
the subject and lock the focus.
4. Enable the Auto Exposure Bracket function of your camera (check your manual if
needs be). Set the range to be the widest possible, +/- 2 is a good position,
however +/- 1 is better than none.
5. If you have a remote control or cable release, let go of the camera and use the
remote control/cable release to take the picture. If not use the camera’s timer, set
it to 2 seconds, click the shutter button and let go of the camera. This step
minimizes camera movement.
6. Congratulations, you’ve take your first HDR! If you check your camera you should
have a series of exposures that may look like the below.
Now that you have your HDR images, you’ll need to skip ahead and read the paragraph
on Using Software To Create & Tone Map HDR Images.
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Ohanawareʼs guide to HDR Photography
Note: While is most cases you shouldn’t need to lock the focus, I have come across
situations where at least one of the exposures wasn’t focused. It’s only happened a couple
of times but it does ruin the HDR.
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Ohanawareʼs guide to HDR Photography
Requires: A Tripod.
If your camera doesn’t feature the Auto Exposure Bracket feature you can still make an
HDR, it just takes longer and requires a tripod of some sort. There are two ways to
accomplish this technique, during the day I’ve not noticed any difference, but at night the
second technique provides much better results. The second method does require a full
manual mode on your camera and is a little more tricky to use.
3. Setup your camera so that you are ready to take the photo.
4. If you have the capability to manually specify the white balance do so, also if your
camera features a focus lock (AF/AE Lock) or manual focus, focus the camera on
the subject and lock the focus.
5. Set your exposure compensation to -2, this will make the picture dark.
6. If you have a remote control or cable release, let go of the camera and use the
remote control/cable release to take the picture. If not use the camera’s timer, set
it to 2 seconds, click the shutter button and let go of the camera. This step
minimizes camera movement.
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Ohanawareʼs guide to HDR Photography
8. Change the exposure compensation to 0 and take the second photo, using the
remote/cable or timer like the first photo.
9. Change the exposure compensation to +2 and take the last photo. Remember to
use the remote/cable or timer, so that you minimize camera movement.
1. Before you start you need to figure out how to use the full manual mode, check
with your camera documentation if needs be. When you are in the manual mode,
you need to be able to tell your exposure, this is done via an exposure meter.
2. Setup your tripod and attach your camera to your tripod and point your camera
at your subject.
3. Set the white Balance, Aperture, ISO and lock the focus onto your subject.
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Ohanawareʼs guide to HDR Photography
4. Now increase your shutter speed so that the exposure meter reads -2, this will
make the picture dark.
5. If you have a remote control or cable release, let go of the camera and use the
remote control/cable release to take the picture. If not use the camera’s timer, set
it to 2 seconds, click the shutter button and let go of the camera. This step
minimizes camera movement.
7. Now you need to reduce the shutter speed, so your exposure meter reads 0,
then take the photo in the same way as before.
8. For the last exposure, reduce your shutter speed one more time so your
exposure meter reads 2, and take your last photo.
If you’re using the timer to take each exposure; consider this, most HDR Software offers
image alignment, so it’s possible to speed up taking manual photos by not using the timer
and relying on the image alignment to fix any minor alignment problems. Reduces motion,
but might get slightly misalignment.
Now that you have your HDR images, you’ll need to read the chapter on Using Software
To Create & Tone Map HDR Images
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Ohanawareʼs guide to HDR Photography
This method is identical to Auto Bracket :: Best Quality except that you don’t use a tripod.
So basically follow the Auto Bracket :: Best Quality but skip the Tripod steps, and try to
keep the camera as steady as possible while it’s taking the bracketed photos. At this point
I would recommend that you use a Tripod to get perfect alignment, however some
situations don’t allow for a Tripod. If the movement of the camera is too great, the
resulting HDR is useless and wasted.
While is most cases you shouldn’t need to lock the focus, there have been a couple of
times where one or more exposures wasn’t focused and the resulting HDR was ruined.
See the examples below of a Suzuki Grand Vitara, the HDR software managed to align
most of the image, but it couldn’t handle the cars in the top right hand corner and for this
example, (which isn’t great anyway) the HDR is ruined.
Before Alignment
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Ohanawareʼs guide to HDR Photography
After Alignment
Close up of mis-alignment
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Ohanawareʼs guide to HDR Photography
Requires: The ability for your camera to save photos in a RAW format.
RAW images are basically raw camera sensor data, before it’s been turned into a photo.
Camera settings are also stored in this file. It allows you to make alterations later and then
create the image. For HDR, this is great as more dynamic range is stored within a RAW file
(there are exceptions). You can use this when the subject is moving or when the camera is
moving. Some HDR software may also be able to use your RAW file directly.
There’s a bunch of serious disadvantages to shooting a single RAW, for instance the end
result will never be as clean multiple exposures. Any image imperfections are multiplied.
Some RAW formats don’t contain more dynamic range than a JPEG.
This technique is not compatible with Photoshop CS3, it does not create HDRs from a
single RAW, nor does it like multi-exposures developed form a single RAW image.
The technique I’m going to suggest may seem like overkill, but when working with HDR
software I’ve found that this technique produces the best results.
3. Open your RAW processing software, and load in your RAW photo. Personally I’d
recommend using the software which ships with your camera, as this generally
produces better results than generic software.
4. Develop the photo as it is and save it with the file name of “Normal”.
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Ohanawareʼs guide to HDR Photography
6. Next adjust the exposure again to +2 and save the developed photo as “Light”.
Now you have your multiple exposures from a single RAW image, move onto the chapter
Using Software To Create & Tone Map HDR Images.
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Ohanawareʼs guide to HDR Photography
This technique is not really HDR, as we are skipping the HDR step and simply tone
mapping a regular photograph. This method is know as FHDR (Fake HDR) or Pseudo
HDR. However it does allow everyone to accomplish the much sought after HDR look,
even if their camera isn’t able to take photos for HDR or simply don’t have the time or
patience for taking photos for HDR.
If your camera has an iContrast, Dynamic Range Optimizer (DRO) or High Dynamic option,
enabling such an option will pull more detail out before you Fake-HDR it and can make a
much stronger image.
Not all HDR software will allow you to tone map a JPEG, the process may be slightly
different from the normal HDR generation and tone mapping.
HDRtist:
To tone map an image in HDRtist, you only need to open it. Either drag the image into the
HDRtist window, or use the “Add Photos” toolbar button or “Open..” from the “File” menu
to open the Open File dialog, and select your photo. Use the Strength slider to adjust the
tone mapping.
Bracketeer:
Doesn’t have a tone mapping facility for a single JPEG.
Hydra:
Simply drag your photo into Hydra or use the “+” button to choose your photo. In the
“Info” pallet, click on the “Merge” tab and about half way down the window, ensure that
“Tone Mapping” is checked. and the choose the tone mapping method.
Photomatrix Pro:
Doesn’t have a tone mapping facility for a single JPEG.
Photoshop:
Doesn’t have a tone mapping facility for a single JPEG.
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Ohanawareʼs guide to HDR Photography
Once you’ve taken your photos for an HDR, you need to merge them into an HDR. Then
you can Tone Map the HDR so that it’ll display nicely on the computer screen. Different
HDR software use different techniques to create their HDR images, I’ll show you to how to
create HDR images using the software listed on the contents page.
HDRtist
Either drag your images into the HDRtist window, or use the “Add Photos” / ”Open”
menuitem on the File menu to select your images. HDRtist will then import those images,
and automatically create the HDR preview and tone map it you. If your images are not
aligned you can use the “Align Photos” button on the toolbar. Use the Strength slider to
adjust the Tone Mapping.
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Ohanawareʼs guide to HDR Photography
ImageFuser
Either drag your exposures into the ImageFuser window or select “Open Bracketed Set”
from the file menu. Once you’ve imported your images ImageFuser will update the preview
for you. If you need to align your images, click on the “Use Align_Image_Stack” checkbox,
then click on the “Align Preview” checkbox to see the preview aligned. You can use the
“Enfuse” tab panel to fine tune your finished result. When you’re ready click on the “Save
Enfused Image” button.
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Ohanawareʼs guide to HDR Photography
Bracketeer:
Drag each image into an individual image well in the “Drag Source Images Here” window.
Bracketeer will then auto update the preview. If your images need aligning, click the “Auto
Align Source Images” button at the bottom of the “Drag Source Images Here” window.
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Ohanawareʼs guide to HDR Photography
When Dynamic Photo HDR starts up, click on the “Create HDR” button on the far right
hand side. A new dialog appears, within this dialog click on the “Add Images” button.
Navigate to your photos and multi select to add them. If you need to align the images,
make sure that “Align Files in Next Step” is checked. Then click on “OK”.
When it’s finished rendering the HDR, you’ll be asked if you want to “Tone Map” the HDR,
which you do so click on “Tone Map HDR”.
In the Tone Mapping window, you’ll see the various methods listed on the left, along with a
bunch of various options. Personally I use the “Ultra-Contrast” method and don’t adjust
anything else. When you’re happy, click on the “Process and Save” button.
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Ohanawareʼs guide to HDR Photography
Hydra:
Simply drag the images into the Hydra window. If you need to align the images, click on
the “Align” tab in the “Info” window, then check “Align Images”, and finally click “Auto Align
Images”. Next click on the “Merge” tab and click on “HDR”. Then check “Tone Mapping”
and can choose between the different methods from the popup menu next to “Method”.
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Ohanawareʼs guide to HDR Photography
Photomatrix Pro:
When the program opens, you need to click on the “Generate HDR” button, then a small
dialog will appear. You can either drag your photos into this window or use the browse
button to choose which images to use.
Then a further dialog might appear asking you to specify the Exposure compensation of
each image, if it doesn’t match I’d advise you set it now as there is no way to change it
later.
Lastly a dialog will appear with a bunch more options, the one to worry about is the “Align
source images” option, if your images were taken without a tripod. Say okay to that dialog
and a little while later, you’ll have your HDR image.
Now you need to click on the “Tone Mapping” button in the floating palette besides your
image. This will take you to the Tone Mapping options.
In the tone mapping options, you have two tabs, the first is the details enhancer and the
second is tone compression. Personally I leave it on Details Enhance and then start
adjusting the bars until I see what I like. There are no magic numbers here, each image is
different and can require manual adjustment to make it look great.
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Ohanawareʼs guide to HDR Photography
Photoshop:
Launch Photoshop and select “Merge to HDR” from the “Automate” menu on the “File”
menu. This will open a new dialog, from here you have to click on the “Browse” button to
navigate and open your images. If your images need aligning, check the “Attempt to
Automatically Align Source Images” checkbox. Then the “OK” button. This will produce the
HDR Dialog, click “OK” and now you have your HDR.
To tone map this HDR, you’ll need to reduce the depth of the image. You can do so by
selecting either “16 Bits/Channel” or “8 Bits/Channel” from the “Mode” submenu of the
“Image” menu. When the dialog opens, you can choose your method by selecting it from
the Method Pop-Up menu. The Local Adaptation method is the method I’d use, click on
the Triangle button to reveal the curve, you can use this to adjust the contrast of the
image. Again there is no magic numbers here folks and different images require different
settings.
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Ohanawareʼs guide to HDR Photography
Below are examples of different methods and some comparison information. I used
HDRtist as the software for HDR Generation and Tone Mapping.
Auto Exposure Bracket with Tripod. Auto Exposure Bracket Without Tripod.
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Ohanawareʼs guide to HDR Photography
Auto Exposure Bracket with Tripod. Auto Exposure Bracket Without Tripod.
This is our base. You can see areas that don’t quite fit &
edges need cropping in a photo editor.
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Ohanawareʼs guide to HDR Photography
Is it a good image to begin with, there’s nothing worse than spending all that time making
an HDR only to discover that it’s dead boring! Always think about how else can I take this
photo? If you’re really stuck, default back to the thirds rule (if you can).
With the thirds rule, it’s fairly simple. Break the image into 3 equal sections and try to
squeeze something interesting into each section, the example above, while not perfect
contains something in each section.
When photographing landscape or buildings try to make sure that there is background
detail, especially in the sky. You need just enough to make it interesting.
Contrasty scenes (where part is too bright and another part is too dark) work quite well as
before and afters.
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Ohanawareʼs guide to HDR Photography
While the main aim of this guide is to help people get into HDR with the digital camera that
they already own, I felt that as I had purchased equipment to aid myself with HDR, it may
be helpful for readers of this guide to know what I purchased and why.
Lenspen ($10-$15)
About the size of a whiteboard marker, this little guy has a
brush on one end and special cleaning tip on t’other end. Use
the brush to brush away dust and dirt, use the cleaner to
remove grime and replace the lens coating.
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Ohanawareʼs guide to HDR Photography
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Ohanawareʼs guide to HDR Photography
The End
Thanks for reading Ohanaware’s guide to HDR Photography, I hope that the information
within this guide has proved useful and helps you on your way with the beautiful world of
HDR Photography.
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