STYLE • SUSTAINABILITY • SUBSTANCE

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we are family
| PLANT POWER | FAITH AND FEMINISM | JEAN GENIUS | THE LOST ART OF LETTER WRITING

FINDING BALANCE | BACK-TO-BASICS BEAUTY | FASHION REVOLUTION | DIY BOTANICAL DYEING

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 66

38
78



 
38 keep the faith
Talking feminism with Dr Susan Carland

44 second skin
Innovations in animal-free leather

48 talking ’bout a revolution

The impact of Rana Plaza, five years on

52 we are family
Tales from different tribes

66 salt of the earth

The stark reality of the kitchen staple

78 worn this way

At home with Worn Store’s Lotte and Lia-Belle

84 botanical beauty
Natural dyes from Mother Nature

6
 14 L I M E L IG HT
Show and tell

84 20 ART & CULTURE

Jeff McCann
22 G RE E N S C E NE
News, info, events
24 MI NT M E T E R
Natural toothpaste
27 N ATU R AL BE AUTY
Organic and natural skincare
30 EVE RY BO DY
Notoriously Dapper
32 EAT YO U R G R E E NS
The Raw Kitchen
36 CO NS C IO U S K ITC HE N
Latest foodie finds
42 S LOW L A N E
The art of letter writing
60 EN L IG HT E NM INT
How to manage your energy
62 SEWING S C HO O L
Free top pattern
64 L A B E L LOVE
Woolerina
70 C H A NG E M AK E R
Gilimbaa
72 MEE T T HE M AK E R
Dejour Jeans
76 SUSTAINABLE STYLE
Playing dress-up
82 ECO EDIT
Everyday undies
90 COUNTER CULTURE
House of Plants
96 G RE E NE R PASTU R E S
Artist as Family
100 VI L L AG E G R E E N
Peregian Beach
104 I N D IE INS IG HTS
ON THE COVER Public Holiday
Lia-Belle and Lotte
from Worn Store 108 EN T E RTAINM INT
Books, films, food
PHOTO
Britt Spring 110 N O U R IS HM INT
DIY pasta
FOR MORE ON
WORN STORE 112 T H E L A ST WO R D
SEE PAGE 78 Zoe Jazz, Sue Thomas
114 PEPPE R M INT P O L L
The burning question

7
8
E DI TOR -I N- C HI E F ’ S LET T ER

ISSUE 37 AUTUMN 2018

Family: the very core of our existence. Kinda important, you could say. Our loves
(and hates), our strengths (and weaknesses), our beliefs (and ignorances) and
our ‘why’ we exist (and ‘why are you driving me crazy?’). How we each define
family is as varied as the number of people on earth.
My own family is a bit like a well-worn, patchwork quilt that you’d find in an
old op shop, full of stories and history. Many squares of different colours and
textures have been collected from diverse backgrounds and sewn together
with mismatched and complementary patterns – some seams stitched tightly
together with knots that will never untie, others unravelling and hanging by a
thread. The squares on the opposite ends might be distant to each other, but
are still an integral part of the whole. Some pieces of fabric are missing, leaving
a gaping hole. New textiles have been added in, bringing fresh hues and new
life – some that match perfectly and were meant to be; others that thought

“
they were destined for a different project, but wound up being bound to us
anyway. To stretch the analogy just a teeny bit more, I love that big old raggedy,
threadbare bedspread and every single square with every ounce of my being –
Little four- for the warmth and comfort it brings on cold nights, the colour it brings to my
surroundings, and the mishmash of contrasting materials and the lessons of
year-old acceptance, connection and tolerance woven through their fibres.

me told my To explain my own family is where it gets tricky. My son was given a school
assignment in prep to draw his family tree – and that required a pretty large
mother that piece of paper and some very creative line work.
I was adopted at birth, arriving at three weeks old on a plane to my excited new
I was meant parents and sister. Little four-year-old me told my mother that I was meant to
go to her, but that I just took a detour to get there. That solid belief has stayed
to go to her, with me for life. I grew up very close to my cousins and extended family, and
but that I just we were always intertwined in each other’s lives. My mum and dad divorced

”
when I was young and each remarried, which brought in step-parents and
took a detour many step-siblings. I met my birth mother and father (separately) around age
20 after tracking down my birth certificate – with the support of my mum, dad
to get there and sister. That cracked open my view of ‘family’ with the realisation that there
is room for others – no-one was being ‘replaced’. I suddenly had half-sisters
and -brothers (and many other relatives), and people who looked and acted
similarly to me: THAT was a little mind-bending. I myself went through a divorce
and then another marriage, creating an even more multi-faceted family for my
own son and self. There have been many heartbreaking losses among our near-
est and dearest, including my dear dad and two subsequent step-fathers and
various others in our close circle, but also many heart-filling gains – marriages,
births, nieces, nephews and step-children. Living far from relatives means
my friends form an integral part of my clan, and also my beloved Peppermint
team, past and present, are all pieces of the much-loved, eclectic patchwork
quilt that I proudly claim as kin. Family is not always defined by blood; it’s the
threads that tie us together.
Looking back, I believe my own beautiful, painful, messy and perfect story (and
of course, my mum) has taught me tolerance and acceptance, strength and
resilience, and an understanding that everyone has their own intricately woven
history and unique version of family. Clichéd or not, we are all family. None
right, none wrong. All different. All the same. Love ’em or hate ’em, family is
everything. Family is my everything.
Mother Teresa was once asked: “What can we do to promote world peace?”
– to which she replied: “Go home and love your family.”

Kelley XXX

9
 AC KNOWLE DGE MINTS
peppermint gives back
At Peppermint we’re committed to supporting
social and environmental charities. For our
Autumn issue Peppermint is donating $300
to The Smith Family – a children’s charity that
helps disadvantaged young Australians get
the most from their education.
PE PPERMINT CHARITY
CO N T R I B UT I O N S A S O F
FEBRUARY 2018: $1 8 ,02 5
PEPPERMINT IS PROUDLY CERTIFIED CARBON
NEUTRAL BY CLIMATEFRIENDLY.COM
Peppermint is printed in Sydney at Blue Star Web –
an ISO 14001 environmentally accredited company
– using Australian-made, 50% recycled, PEFC- and
carbon neutral-Certified paper from well-managed
forests that comply with environmentally sustain-
able practices.
10
FOUNDER / PUBLISHER / EDITOR-IN-CHIEF / DESIGNER
Kelley Sheenan
.......
EDITOR
Rebecca Jamieson Dwyer rebecca@peppermintmag.com
ADVERTISING & ACCOUNT MANAGER
Zoe Patterson zoe@peppermintmag.com


DIGITAL & ASSISTANT EDITOR
Helen Dewar helen@peppermintmag.com
OFFICE MANAGER
Lisa Turnbull hello@peppermintmag.com
MARKETING & PARTNERSHIPS MANAGER
Roxane Horton roxane@peppermintmag.com
CONTRIBUTING EDITORS
Carody Culver, Linsey Rendell, Koren Helbig, Emily Lush.
For submission guidelines please go to peppermintmag.com
.......
CONTRIBUTORS FOR ISSUE 37
WRITERS
Carody Culver, Linsey Rendell, Emily Lush, Sonya Gellert,
Kate James, Samantha Allemann, Samorn Sanixay, Nicole Lutze,
Naomi Bulger, Anthia Koullouros, Kim Kneipp, Sue Thomas, Zoe Jazz.
PHOTOGRAPHY
Britt Spring, Linsey Rendell, Lorna Sim, Claudio Montesano Casillas,
Elisabeth Harvey.
ILLUSTRATION
Brent Wilson.
.......
GET IN TOUCH
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.......
All content is subject to copyright and may not be reproduced in any
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represented in Peppermint are not necessarily those of the publisher.
Peppermint is an independent magazine published quarterly by:
The Peppermint Publishing Trust
PO Box 36 Red Hill QLD 4059 AUSTRALIA
ABN: 72 602 746 442
Australia and NZ distribution by: Gordon & Gotch
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NEWS, FREE SEWING PATTERNS AND EVENTS
peppermintmag.com
11
 LE T TE R BOX





Dear Peppermint,
I’ve been on my sustainable-living journey
for a little while now – each month I try
to incorporate a new earth-saving behav-
iour into my life. Most of them have been
of the low-hanging fruit variety – recycling
everything, using a KeepCup for takeaway
coffees and less plastic wherever possible.
It can then be so demoralising to watch
others continue to use single-use bags, buy
water in plastic bottles and litter our natural
environment indiscriminately. That’s where
Peppermint comes to my rescue. Each
issue is like a giant hug that says, “Thank
you for trying, thank you for becoming
aware and thank you for staying interested
in saving our world.” So, for the inspiration,
the education and the thought-provoking
content you publish each season, I thank
you right back.
– Vanessa
..........
Dear Peppermint,
Having just finished school, I’m surrounded
by society telling me to live a busy life full
of things, to have a full-time career and,
preferably, to have a deposit on a house by
the time I’m 21. These expectations don’t fill
me with passion like living sustainably does.
When I open your magazine, my eyes are
opened to people whose morals and pas-
sions align with mine. They don’t see age
as a restriction in making a difference, but
instead believe in positivity and passion
being the causes of change. Thank you for
supporting my dreams of living a simple yet
extraordinary life.
– Tamar
12
WE LOVE HEARING FROM YOU,
DEAR READERS.

All writers published in this issue’s Letterbox will receive
a pack of two all-natural, vegan, cruelty-free deodorants
from the clever folks at Woohoo, containing their
bestselling Urban and Mellow blends. Don’t forget to
include your mailing address with your letter, so we
can get your goodies to you. Enjoy!
woohoobody.com.au
GET IN TOUCH AT HELLO@PEPPERMINTMAG.COM
Dear Peppermint,
I’ve so far spent two hours 45 minutes in a
hospital awaiting theatre. I’m dressed in my
backless theatre gown and have showered
in antibacterial hospital soap. Luckily I have
the latest Peppermint to entertain me as I
bide my time and try to avoid dwelling on
the pending operation. I was very close
to crying with laughter after reading ‘The
Skinny on Dips’ – I often spend way too
long deciding on basic food items (includ-
ing dips), and the descriptions of each item
were very quirky, relatable and humorous.
I always enjoy reading this section of your
magazine and admire the illustrations (as
well as the entire fact-filled, mind-broaden-
ing magazine). Thanks!
– Marion
..........
Dear Peppermint,
I recently received the Summer 2017 issue of
Peppermint for my birthday, and it couldn’t
have come at a better time. Your magazine
has been, for me, a game-changer.
After years of chronic illness, I was at a point
where I wanted to make some big lifestyle
changes but didn’t know how or where to
start. With every page, I found inspiration
and revelation on ways to live more simply,
mindfully, ethically and sustainably... as well
as beautifully!
I began by marking pages of interest, but
quickly realised I’d have to mark every sin-
gle page. While other magazines are a fast
and disposable flick, Peppermint is a valu-
able resource I’ll return to again and again.
Absolutely worth a subscription! Thanks so
much, Peppermint. I’m deeply grateful.
– Julia
Dear Peppermint,
I’ve been reading your magazine for a
couple of years and I still look forward to
every new issue. In a world where we’re
constantly bombarded with bad news, it’s
easy to feel hopeless and want to give up.
Reading the wonderful articles in your mag-
azine inspires me to do better, and keeps
me feeling positive that our world is filled
with great people who are making it a better
place. Thank you, Peppermint, for sharing
these uplifting stories.
– Kate
..........
Dear Peppermint,
Just like the best of songs, your most recent
issue on buying less stuff spoke my truth
more eloquently than I could have. Kelley’s
letter resonated deeply – I too have recently
bought a mountain of well-intended, beau-
tiful things with beautiful stories, and yet
they’re still adding to my excess. While I’m
certainly on a path of trying to consume
less, minimalism isn’t my jam!
One of the gifts of Peppermint is that it
shows us alternatives – other ways of exist-
ing and, inevitably, of consuming. When it
all seems overwhelming and we wonder if
we’ll ever be able to overcome our addic-
tion to social media or pretty things, here
you are – shining a light on practical ways
we can do better, live better and contrib-
ute better. And making it okay to buy that
beautiful thing we just must have every now
and again, because we know that no human,
nor part of our earth, was exploited in its
creation.
– Kari
 WIN
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 LI ME LI GHT

SCULPTU R A L STYLE
Hand-built from clay, Eny Lee Parker’s earrings are sculptural statement pieces
that we’d totally let do the talking. Collectively named ‘The Artist Line’, this
range of simple, modern designs is available in terracotta, black, off-white
and sand colourways, and each and every pair is hand-made in the designer’s
adopted hometown of Savannah, Georgia. Sitting alongside her line of ceram-
ics, furniture and homewares in a muted, neutral palette, these beauties are the
ultimate in minimal chic.
enyleeparker.com

DESIGN FOR LIFE

In need of a one-stop shop for all your beautifully
designed gifts and homewares, where you can be
sure absolutely nothing’s mass-made, all workers
are paid fairly and no damage is done to our fair
planet during the production process? If so, Ginger-
finch is totally where it’s at! This carefully curated
selection of chic, timeless sweetness from around
good thinking
the world comes from independent makers who Ethical clothing line Thought started life in Australia in 1995 as Braintree Cloth-
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ing you can spoil someone (or yourself) with their ramie and hemp. Fast forward to 2018 and the line, which shifted its head office
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14
 life’s a
beach
With a UPF rating of 50+,
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and the fact the entire offer-
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Elk’s line of swimwear had
us at hellooooo endless
summer. Manufactured DOWN TO
in Queensland, the range
uses an innovative method TH E WIR E
to transform waste nylon Say goodbye to pesky plastic laundry pegs
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year-out beach adventures. Choose from different sizes and steel
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elkaccessories.com and hanging needs.
biome.com.au

R A IN BOW
BR IG H T

Designed and hand-made in

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brings welcome sunshine to
the old four-seasons-in-one-
day situation, with bold and
cheerful prints splashed across
a range of cotton and linen
dresses, tees and skirts. She’s
also teamed up with local
jewellery designers to offer the
perfectly contrasting pair of
resin earrings to finish off your
look – meaning you’ll brighten
up even the darkest days!
karlacola.com
 look alive
Tribe Alive’s simple but elegant new
range of womenswear and accesso-
ries aims to take you effortlessly from
work to play, with jumpsuits, wide-leg
pants, boxy tops, loose-fitting dresses
and classic-cut skirts all hand-made
in 100% cotton. Sitting alongside a
range of gold-plated brass jewellery,
including cuff bracelets, hammered
bangles and intricate rings, Tribe
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Honduras and Fort Worth, Texas, giv-
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G U M NUT B A BY
Little skin needs a lot of care – which is why we’re loving
Mosov’s newest GOTS-Certified Organic range of sweetness
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everything from shorts, tees and leggings to bandanas, bibs
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Win one of three pairs of Australiana Organic Leggings worth

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TOE TH E LIN E



Made to order in Melbourne, Nelson Made shoes are a dreamy
combination of simple shapes with super-cute touches – think
basic slides topped with a chunky linen bow; minimalist san-
dals in a high-shine gloss; and multi-strap flats in pastel rain-
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leather, a pair of these beauties is an ideal way to add a lil splash
of somethin’ to an otherwise plain Jane outfit.
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YU AND M E
Thought sugarcane was a one-trick pony?
Think again – and do it while slurping some
refreshing H2O from your Yuhme bottle,
which is made from a sugarcane bioplastic.
A percentage of sales from each bottle goes
to Water for Good, which funds projects in
the Central African Republic. Drink up!
yuhme.se - available at yogispirit.com.au

ARTIST SPOTLIGHT:
BELIN STANTON
Belinism ceramic sculptures

What got you into pottery?

I’ve always felt drawn to the earthy

qualities of clay. Being a three-year-
old making mud pies in my favourite
red corduroys is one of my earliest and
fondest memories. I feel so blessed that
now I play with mud and call it work!
Tell us about that work...

I make functional sculptures and table-

ware in my little mountain-top studio.
It’s made by a real person for a real per-
son – I’m trying to add a little humanity
to the faceless mass-market world we
live in. I aim to make crockery you’ll
want to cuddle.
Where does your inspiration come from?

The touch of sun on my skin, the smell

and colour of fresh flowers, the sound
of birds singing, the embrace of a
loved one, the smile of a stranger –
basically I’m inspired by anything that
makes me happy.
Does each piece have a unique
personality?

They’re all contented and calm, but

some are sleepy and others are cheeky
natural beauty or quirky. I don’t use moulds – each
face is shaped and carved by hand.
They all come from the same happy
Iko Apparel is a line that ticks a LOT of our boxes. Easy-to-wear, trans-seasonal pieces? family but they’re not the same person!
Check. Beautiful designs that are built to last? Double check. The use of all-natural
What do you hope to achieve?
fibres – meaning a whole lotta silk, cotton and linen for your buck? Check, check and
checkmate! Designed and made in Melbourne in small batches, Iko Apparel’s button- To make people smile – I think simple
down shirts, wide-leg pants, kimono-style jackets and statement-sleeve tee dresses happiness is underrated. It’s why I add
are intended to be worn and loved for a lifetime – meaning your wardrobe can be smiles to my coffee mugs!
pared back to pieces you’ll treasure forever. belinism.etsy.com
ikoapparel.com
 super mercado
With the aim of making the fashion
industry more sustainable by encourag-
ing people to sell, swap and share their
pieces, Mercado 32 offers a curated
selection of preloved items from
designers who prioritise ethics (along
with natural fibres – hello breathability!)
With two physical shops in Perth and a
frequently updated Insta-store, this is
one market we’ll be visiting on the reg!
mercado32.com.au

CHANGEMAKER:
BENITA ROBLEDO
actress and eco fashion blogger

Tell us about your blog... 

It’s about sustainable fashion and how

we can integrate it into our lifestyle. I
don’t just show a bunch of pretty pic-
tures – I do research and then break
it down into easy-to-understand and
actionable bites. I love taking complex
ideas and making them manageable!
What drew you to sustainable fashion?

The stories – women able to support

their families through fair trade; chil-
dren getting an education because of
a company donating to a school; peo-
ple’s lives being improved, all because
people shopped responsibly. When I



realised all the good that was possible,
I was hooked. It’s a three-trillion dollar
industry employing 70 million people
– 80% of whom are women. Not to
mention it’s one of the top polluters. If
we can move the needle just a little bit,
we’re making a massive impact on the
entire planet. That’s why it cracks me up
F R O M T H E E A RT H when people call fashion ‘superficial’.
How do you combine a Hollywood
career with eco activism? 
Ten years ago, Netherlands-born Kim Wallace quit her graphic design job, rolled up
her sleeves and fired up her love of clay. Today, her Sunshine Coast-based boutique It’s been surprisingly easy. One of the
ceramics studio produces a diverse array of handmade plates, bowls, mugs, spoons, biggest challenges with sustainable
vases, serving platters and more – meaning you can jazz up your morning coffee run fashion right now is getting the average
with a muted ceramic takeaway cup, brighten your kitchen with the fruity colours of person to care. Working in Hollywood
the rainbow or add rustic shapes and tones to your next fancy dinner party. has taught me that if you want people
to pay attention, you better tell them a
kwceramics.com.au
good story. That’s what I do. I tell a good
Win one of three two-plate sets (one bread plate, one dinner plate) from the Kim Wallace story and then give people an easy way
Ceramics Ebb Tide collection! Email your details to yesplease@peppermintmag.com by to make a difference themselves.
14 May 2018 with ‘Kim Wallace’ in the subject line. Good luck! compassionfashionblog.com
 ON THE DOUBLE
What’s better than one pair of perfectly
worn vintage jeans being given a whole
new shot at life? TWO pairs starting over,
that’s what! Each and every pair of E.L.V
Denim jeans is hand-crafted from two
previously discarded pairs – giving them
a totally unique look while ensuring less
textiles end up in landfill. Londoners
can take advantage of their made-to-
measure service, while online shoppers
can snap up some ready-to-wear pairs.
Twice as nice!
elvdenim.com

dream on
We’re not sure, but we think sweet dreams might *just* be made of these –
these being West Elm’s new 100% organic cotton bed sheets. With a super-
comfy 400-thread-count, these GOTS-certified sheets are designed to feel like
five-star bedding – and you can rest safe in the knowledge that they were made
in a fair trade facility. Before you hit the sack, it might be worth checking out
some of West Elm’s other organic ethical wares, including delightfully crumply
linen bedding and fair trade rugs and furniture.
westelm.com.au
H E A RT FE LT
When Swiss couple Galina and Dan were
given a pair of traditional Russian boots, it
kickstarted the idea that became Baabuk – a
range of footwear felted in one piece, using
naturally water-repellent wool. While slippers
are crafted in Baabuk’s Nepalese workshop,
boots and sneakers are made in the traditional
shoemaking capital of Portugal – intentionally
providing work in rural areas where unemploy-
ment rates are high.
baabuk.com.au
 “
I love the notion
of ceremony
and rituals,

”
colour and
play

20
ART & CULTURE

in living colour
ART DIRECTOR AND DESIGNER JEFF
MCCANN IS QUITE THE MULTI-TASKER
– USING REPURPOSED CARDBOARD
TO MAKE HIS VIBRANT MARK.
words
HELEN DEWAR
photos COURTESY OF JEFF McCANN
.......

It was necessity that initially drove Jeff McCann to use cardboard – the
material that’s since become his signature across everything from art
installations and live performances to a range of fashion accessories
and homewares. “I started using cardboard because I was a poor uni
student and couldn’t afford art supplies,” he says. “Then I grew to love
it – it freed me from the ‘blank white canvas’ trap that so many cre-
atives fall into. I was able to just play and experiment. It’s such a good
material to work with and there’s so much of it being thrown away.”
From bags and earrings featuring hand-drawn illustrations to dramat-
ically theatrical dresses, Jeff’s bold, unique style has led to his work
being in high demand across a variety of different creative endeav-
ours. “In the past twelve months I’ve had some amazing experiences.
I’ve created looks for [the musician] Montaigne, produced work for
Spilt Milk music festival and collaborated on the Chinese New Year
Rooster sculpture at the QVB in Sydney,” he says.
As someone who takes plain rubbish and transforms it into all things
bright and beautiful, Jeff’s playful aesthetic is always underpinned by
a desire to make work that’s accessible and easy to understand. “I
love the notion of ceremony and rituals, colour and play – bringing
back a childlike sense of wonder to the viewer,” he explains. “My aim is
to make something that is fun and approachable for my audience.”

21
 GR E E N S C E NE

feeling blue
A NEW DOCUMENTARY EXAMINES THE SHOCKING
CONSEQUENCES OF HUMAN BEHAVIOUR ON THE
OCEANS THAT SUSTAIN US.

Billed as “a provocative journey into the ocean realm”, Blue takes a dramatic look at
the very real impact of industrialisation, habitat destruction and plastic pollution.
We spoke to environmentalist and #take3forthesea founder Tim Silverwood, who
appears in the film, to find out more... PL ASTIC PERIL
..........
Disease-carrying microbes are being car-
Tell us about the movie... ried to the Coral Reef on plastic debris –
greatly increasing disease rates and killing
Blue is a film about ocean change. We hear a lot about climate change but we forget
coral, according to a research group led by
that 70% of our world’s surface is ocean, and that without a healthy ocean there’s
Cornell University that studied 159 reefs.
no healthy us. The film is cinematically stunning and its gift is showcasing the beauty
and wonder of the sea, contrasted with the jarring impacts of our abusive behaviour.
Despite being an expert, was there anything that particularly hit home?

IT’S COOL
It’s always shocking to get up close and personal with horrific pollution. In the film
I visit Bali, where I encounter creeks covered by plastic pollution and smouldering

TO BE KIND
piles of waste burning a stone’s throw from where innocent children play. In Hawaii,
I visit Kamilo Beach, where mountains of trash and millions of pieces of microplastic
wash up incessantly – a message from the Great Pacific garbage patch that there’s
no such place as ‘away’. Almost nine out
What drives your environmentalism?
of 10 Australians
Like anyone, I’m driven to protect what I love, and as a surfer I absolutely love the
believe businesses
ocean. We owe the oceans for every second breath of oxygen we take. As humans,
have a responsibility
we’re on a very volatile trajectory – we’re consuming out of control. We need to rec- to do social good,
ognise the reality of our situation, as a species of mammal sharing a big blue marble and two-thirds
with a myriad of other equally impressive species that all want to survive and prosper. think better of
What do you hope people take from Blue? companies
It sends a strong message about overfishing. In one scene a campaigner makes the that donate to
powerful claim that eating some species of tuna is akin to dining on snow leopard or charity.
polar bear. It’s true – we’ve abused natural reserves of fish so badly that some species
will almost certainly become extinct. The frustrating thing is there’s so much evidence YOUGOV OMNIBUS RESEARCH, 2018
that establishing sanctuary zones (like National Parks for the sea) can lead to rapid
rehabilitation of fish stocks, but money and greed always win, and marine sanctuar-
ies continue to be a contentious issue. There’s never been a more important time to
protect our oceans and wildlife. Don’t wait for someone else to come along and fix
these problems – you’re the person you’ve been waiting for.
ECO NEWS
bluethefilm.org Kenya has implemented the world’s
toughest plastic bag laws. Fines of $40,000
or four years in jail will initially be imposed
on manufacturers and suppliers.

Norway’s airport operator has announced
plans to make Norwegian short-haul
flights entirely electric-powered by 2040,
including all domestic flights.

The European Union and nine other nations
have committed to banning commercial
fishing in the central Arctic Ocean for at
least the next 16 years.

22
 ORGANIC
PURE MOUNTAIN - WATER WASHED

DECAF
ARTISAN ROASTED COFFEE BEANS

Our specialty decaffeination

process used to produce our

let’s chat contraception Premium Decaf Coffee Beans is

100% organic, using only pure
A new app from international development charity CARE is teaching Cambodian garment workers mountain water - free from
– many of whom come from poor families and receive limited education – vital information about
all chemicals, allowing these
contraception and STIs. The app is part of Chat! Contraception – a program in which women receive
information via in-factory, soap opera-style video screenings and a daily in-app quiz delivered to delicious Mexican mountain
their phone. A ‘treasure hunt’ encourages women to break taboos by completing challenges such as beans to retain their full and
photographing a shop that sells condoms, or calling a sexual health hotline. Early results suggest the
rich flavour. Delivered fresh to
program has been a success – of 15,000 workers reached, the rate of contraception use has doubled
to almost 50%, and unwanted pregnancies are in decline. your door!

99% OF GREEN TURTLES IN PARTS OF THE NORTHERN GREAT BAR-

RIER REEF ARE NOW BORN FEMALE, A NEW STUDY HAS FOUND. THE
REPORT, PRODUCED BY THE NATIONAL OCEANIC AND ATMOSPHERIC
ADMINISTRATION, RAISES CONCERNS THAT THE STATISTIC IS LINKED TO
A RISE IN OCEAN TEMPERATURES.
coffeebeansdelivered.com.au

“ If you stop thinking about what you

might want, it’s a whole lot easier to
see what other people don’t have.

Ann Patchett, author

”


“ This decaf has renewed my love

for coffee again! “

23
 MI NT ME TE R

nothing but the tooth

WE’RE MOUTHING OFF ABOUT OUR DENTAL HEALTH.

Few things can brighten your face (and someone else’s day) more than a flash of your super-fresh pearly
whites. But what if your teeth are looking less than dazzling? Help’s at hand in the dental aisle – but with so
many of the standard pastes, powders and potions containing everything from sodium laurel sulfate (SLS)
and triclosan to fluoride and saccharin, we’re giving them the brush-off and looking for more natural ways
to shine. In a bid to separate tooth from fiction, we’ve got down and dirty (literally – thanks charcoal) in
the name of bringing you the very best natural products around. Brace yourself – we’re going in.
words
HELEN DEWAR
illustration BRENT WILSON

..........

MY MAGIC MUD KEEKO GRANTS OF AUSTRALIA

WHITENING TOOTH
POWDER
An intriguing prospect, this jet-black powder
is fluoride free with no GMOs, glycerin or SLS,
and promises both mouth-cleaning and whit-
ening – something I’m keen for, since I’m no
stranger to red wine/black coffee/generally
just eating and drinking stuff. You DO have
to be committed to the cause, as one thing
you’re definitely not whitening is anything
within a 30-centimetre radius when it’s time
to rinse (the instructions urge you to let it fall
rather than spit it out, which seems odd until
the first time you open your mouth and realise
spitting would be akin to making a kneejerk
decision to paint your bathroom a fetching
shade of black). Despite the minor mess, I can
see the dark tones counteracting the yellow-
ish ones on my teeth (ew), so on that level it’s
a winner. Just allow for some cleaning up time
– but nothing good ever came easy, right?
mymagicmud.com
MEEKA BODY
ORGANIC ACTIVATED
CHARCOAL TOOTHPASTE
Another charcoal number, this gentle organic
paste is a remineralising, PH-restoring
formula that contains organic virgin coconut
oil, baking soda and activated coconut
charcoal (surely the natural-ingredient
version of a supergroup?), alongside clove
and peppermint oils. Free from fluoride, palm
oil, sulphates and parabens, this one left my
mouth feeling dazzlingly clean. This far down
the charcoal-product-testing wormhole,
I only wish I could say the same for my sink.
meekabody.com
COCONUT OIL PULLING
With roots in Ayurvedic medicine, the theory
behind oil-pulling is that the swilling of oil
around your mouth cleans and detoxes your
teeth. Containing only coconut oil and minty
essential oils, this one quickly moved from
feeling weird to being totally doable. Sadly
sticking to the recommended five to 15 minute
swishing ritual was beyond me (did anyone
invent self-dressing/feeding/cleaning chil-
dren yet?), but this was a smooth way to give
my mouth some sparkle, and meant I could
jazz up my teeth while also multi-tasking
my way through the morning routine. I just
couldn’t talk while I was doing it, which some
might call a bonus (hi kids!)
keekooil.com
CEDAR AND STONE
CHOCOLATE, ORANGE AND
COCONUT TOOTH TONIC
As the mid-point of my toothy adventure, I
tried out Tooth Tonic – a sulphate-, GMO- and
paraben-free yellow powder containing kaolin
clay, turmeric and cocoa, which promises to
whiten, kill bacteria and remineralise your
mouth. This one doesn’t contain charcoal (an
oversight, surely?), but somehow manages
to bumble along quite nicely without it. With
charmingly exotic ingredients (I actually tried
the ‘youth’ version, because HELLO CHOCO-
LATE FLAVOURED ANYTHING), it kind of felt
like giving my teeth an indulgent spa treatment
– to feel fully fresh I was still keen to brush with
toothpaste afterwards, but I felt I’d shown my
chompers some serious pre-game love.
cedarandstone.com.au
XYLITOL WITH MILD MINT
TOOTHPASTE
Hello lightness, my old friend. What this flu-
oride-free, vegan-friendly number’s lacking in
dramatic-looking ingredients (breathe easy,
bathroom furnishings) it makes up for with
xylitol – a natural ingredient derived from tree
bark, no less, which inhibits the growth of bac-
teria in your mouth. As well as using bark to
brighten my bite, it has a lovely minty flavour
that left my mouth feeling as fresh as a bub-
bling mountain brook on a particularly chilly
day in the Alps. Julie Andrews, guitar and mul-
tiple children in playclothes = optional.
grantsofaustralia.com.au
WELEDA
SALT TOOTHPASTE
Fluoride free and with sodium bicarb
fighting the good fight against plaque, the
salt here is meant to increase saliva flow,
which in turn keeps your cakehole feeling
fine (and actually tasted quite mild, despite
the thought of cleaning my mouth out with
salt initially seeming like a somewhat harsh
punishment for swearing ). Delightfully, it also
contains myrhh, which I very much enjoyed
as it not only made me feel like some Very
Wise (Wo)Men had something to do with its
formulation, but also that I should prepare for
the imminent appearance of shepherds in my
ensuite. It’s possible I was just delirious from
all the product testing, but still. Fangs for the
memories, guys!
weleda.com.au

24
25


 




 

 
 











 
 NATU R A L BE AUTY

CREATE YOUR OWN HEALTH
AND BEAUTY APOTHECARY
An apothecary is an old-fashioned word for a dispensary of natural ingre-
dients prepared to aid simple, everyday ailments – and the good news is,
you can create your own from items in your pantry or garden!
HUMAN NATURE
A small range with big impact: Essence of Humanity is a
social enterprise and registered charity, with all profits
from their highly effective natural products supporting
vulnerable communities around the world.
theessenceofhumanity.com

words ANTHIA KOULLOUROS

.......
Rosemary leaf can alleviate headaches and improves cognitive function.
Make as a herbal tea by steeping one tablespoon of fresh or one teaspoon
of dried herb per cup of boiling water. Drink three cups per day.

Thyme and sage leaves, fresh or dried, can be made into an antiseptic
herbal tea with a spoonful of honey. It will alleviate a sore, dry and tickly
throat and cough. Recipe as above.

Extra virgin and cold-pressed olive oil makes an excellent dry skin body
moisturiser. Use on damp skin after a shower. Make a floral olive oil blend by
steeping dried lavender and chamomile flowers in a jar of olive oil for a week.
Strain through a muslin cloth and use a few drops as a face oil every day.

The menthol in fresh peppermint leaf cools the constitution during a fever
or heat. Steep a bunch in a jug of water overnight in the fridge and drink.

One cup of fresh lavender flowers steeped in a bath can help soothe and
relax sore muscles. BEAUTY SPOT


Make an antibacterial and astringent lavender and rose toner by steeping bob melbourne
one tablespoon of each flower in one cup of boiled water. Strain and apply A natural hair salon founded on the principle
over face with a cotton pad. Store toner in the fridge for up to four days. that simple is beautiful, it’s safe to say Bob
Cardamom pods contain little black seeds that, when chewed on, will is sustainability-obsessed throughout the
freshen bad breath. mop-chop process. With even hair clip-
pings repurposed in booms used to absorb
Cinnamon quills, broken up and infused in a cup of boiling water, will satisfy oil spills (heck yeah!), the salon aims to be
sugar cravings and alleviate a sore bloated tummy. zero-waste and ensures no leftover chemi-
cals enter our waterways. They’ve also cre-
ANTHIA KOULLOUROS IS A NATUROPATH AND HERBALIST, AUTHOR
ated tees sharing their ‘Anti-Crap’ ethos –
OF ‘I AM FOOD’ AND THE FOUNDER OF OVVIO ORGANICS.
with all profits going to beach cleanups.
ovvioorganics.com.au
bobmelbourne.com.au

27


 



According to the Environmental Working Group’s Skin
Deep Cosmetics Database, the average woman uses
12 products containing 168 unique ingredients every
day. Strip back your skincare routine with our pick of
products that have simple, minimal – or even singular –
ingredients. It’s beauty decluttered!

clockwise from top left

S.W. BASICS Cream / Three potent ingredients, multiple uses $39
swbasicsofbk.com 
THE BROAD PLACE Kapha Balancing Body Oil / Ayurvedic uplifting oil
for body and mind, created from sweet almond oil with lemon, sandalwood and jasmine
$35 consciouskin.com 
KOSMEA Rosehip Oil / Certified Organic, wild-grown, ethically
sourced rosehip oil – nothing more, nothing less $29.95 kosmea.com.au

CEDAR + STONE Rose Water / Hydrate, cool, tone and moisturise with pure rose water
$25 cedarandstone.com.au 
EVERY BIT ORGANIC Avocado Oil / Cook with it, massage
with it, treat your hair and nourish your skin $16.25 everybitorganic.com.au 
LIFE BASICS
Pure Green Clay Facial Mask / Pure green clay – with nothing else added – to exfoliate
and smooth skin $14.95 nourishedlife.com.au 
SIMPLE AS THAT Makeup Remover
/ Three simple oils to cleanse and remove makeup $24.95 simpleasthat.com.au
 IN CASE OF FIRE
While it may not rescue kittens from
trees, this toiletry bag will protect
your luggage from leaking shampoo
and skincare disasters. Made from
decommissioned British fire hoses
that were deployed in active duty for
up to 25 years, and fully lined with
#!"
*.%#-2

military grade parachute silk, the Big
Wash Bag (along with its little brother
,#&)%-(.,


the Compact Wash Bag) is a stylishly
sustainable way to pack all your pretty
 (+%
,$#'+

products and help save the day!
-"-
&$,
.,
(

upcyclestudio.com.au
'-.+3,
'-.+%

-#/,

0#-"(.-

OWAY WE GO
Standing for Organic Way, this haircare brand’s
-(1#
+-# ##%

organic, biodynamic products prove natural
doesn’t have to be boring, with Oway salons
(+
"+& .%

now offering dreamy new hair colours such as
fairy floss pink, mermaid green and ocean blue. #'!+#'-,
owayaustralia.com.au




















A recent study f rom the University of
Exeter has found traces of bisphenol 







A (BPA) – a hormone-disrupting  









chemical – in 86% of teenagers. 







FRESH FINDS

left to right • EIGHT BROOK ASPEN BARK EXFOLIATING CLEANSER Clarifying cleanser to
refine skin texture $55 • BLACK CHICKEN DRY SHAMPOO Toxin- and talc-free dry shampoo with   



rosemary and clary sage $24.95 • GREEN JUICE SKIN BALM Soothing botanical formula with shea
butter and alfalfa $29.50 • SKINBOSS GET UP AND GLOW Hydrating vegan face oil $45 • SNOW
FOX SOOTHING FACIAL MOUSSE Brightening mousse to cleanse and revitalise $45

29
 EVE RY BODY

30
notoriously dapper
KELVIN DAVIS SHOWCASES HIS DAILY STYLE TO INSPIRE
MEN OF ALL BODY TYPES TO EMBRACE THEIR SHAPE.
After a negative shopping experience made him feel insecure about his size, Kelvin started his
fashion and body positivity blog Notoriously Dapper. Here, he shares tips on style, confidence
and fashion as a form of self-expression – encouraging others to accept themselves as they
are and dress in a way that makes them feel ready to take on the world.

words REBECCA JAMIESON DWYER photo BRENNAN BOOKER

.......

How did you become interested in male body positivity?

I have been surrounded by people who project positive male body image my whole life, but
in the media and fashion adverts I didn’t see that same representation. I started blogging
about it after a bad shopping experience left me feeling pretty insecure about my own body.
I realised a lot of men didn’t have the outlet to speak out about their body insecurities, so I
decided I needed to be that voice.
What are some of the issues men are dealing with?

We live in a world where masculinity is about how tough you can be, how non-vulnerable you are

“
and how much you can ignore things and move on. That’s not healthy at all. We need to get to a
place where men can talk about their emotions, body image and mental health. Men do suffer
from body image issues – just because we don’t talk about them doesn’t mean they don’t exist.
Many men feel under pressure to get smaller or get bigger: I have known guys with eating
disorders who overeat to gain more mass and then others who make themselves throw up
We need
to lose weight. We’ve got to learn to talk about these issues – it’s the only way we can solve
them. Body positivity is for everyone: every race, every gender, every age and every size! to get to a
What advice would you give to others?

I would tell anyone struggling with body image to find peace in who they are and who they
place where
aren’t. Finding something you are good at and have a passion for can also help you with body
image issues, because you will begin to appreciate what your body can do for you. men can talk
Why is style important to you?

It has always been my ace card – style has helped me with my body confidence and excelling
about their
at life. I knew that no matter where I was, I would always be the best-dressed guy in the room.
My style has shaped me and my career, it has been my armour against what American society
emotions,
thinks about me as a black man, and it has been my saviour by protecting me from the body
insecurities we all face. It doesn’t define me, but it has helped me on the journey of defining
who I am in this life.
body image

”
As a parent, how do you help foster a sense of body confidence in your children?  and mental
My dad showed me how to love myself and be confident in who I was as a young black boy
in America. With my own kids, I foster strong body confidence in them by walking the talk. health
Children often want to imitate what they see – if they see positivity from their parents,
they’ll learn the same.
What message do you hope people take from your blog? 

I hope they get the message that everyone is beautiful and any man can be stylish at any size.
That masculinity is about love, not hate; it’s about being vulnerable, not being closed; and
most importantly, it’s about helping build people up, not tearing them down.

LOOK OUT FOR KELVIN’S BOOK: ‘NOTORIOUSLY DAPPER:

How To Be A Modern Gentleman With Manners, Style And Body Confidence’.

31
 E AT YO U R GR E E NS

32

Heath Daly, a veteran naturopath of 20 years, and wife Emma,
a music education graduate, made their first foray into food in 2009.
Drawing on Heath’s extensive knowledge of plant-based nutrition
and healing, they rented a pop-up stall at the Subiaco Farmers
Market in their hometown of Perth and served up flax nachos and
raw desserts every Saturday morning. Appearing at a time when the
appetite for green smoothies and bliss balls was ferocious, the stall
was a hit with the local community. It quickly graduated to become
a permanent fixture of the larger Fremantle Markets and less than a
year later, evolved into The Raw Kitchen cafe.
“Our little cafe always had lines out the door,” Heath remembers of
the early days. “We had to find somewhere bigger.” A cavernous 868-
square-metre warehouse conversion on Fremantle’s High Street was
exactly the kind of space the couple needed to take things to the next
level. Emma set aside her postgraduate studies in medicine to focus
on the business full time. In 2013, The Raw Kitchen as we now know
it opened its doors.
Initially buoyed by the buzz around the clean eating movement,
Emma and Heath’s holistic approach and seemingly boundless pas-
sion for wholefoods has helped their venue stand the test of time.
Now the business reaches far beyond food to encompass workshops
and master classes, a zero-waste retail store and a yoga studio. They
still offer the kind of dishes that first won customers over – including
the raw nachos – but the couple has broadened their horizons in the
kitchen, too. “The name The Raw Kitchen is quite deceptive,” Emma
explains. “It made sense when we started out, but we’re no longer
focused on raw. Being exclusive in one area is definitely not what
we’re about anymore.” Moving into the warehouse was a catalyst
to start serving cooked foods for the first time in The Raw Kitchen’s
planting a seed
STARTING LIFE AS A MARKET STALL, THE
RAW KITCHEN IN FREMANTLE HAS GROWN
INTO A MULTI-PURPOSE COMMUNITY HUB
WHERE PEOPLE GATHER FOR A MEAL,
A WORKSHOP, OR A HOST OF OTHER
HEALTH-FOCUSED ACTIVITIES.
words EMILY LUSH
photos KELLEY SHEENAN
..........
history. “Everyone loved the natural progression,” Heath says of the
transition to a menu that is half raw, half cooked.
Now, the restaurant comfortably fits into the category of clean, plant-
based eating – although Emma and Heath are quick to point out that
they don’t think of it as a ‘health food’ restaurant. “We still teach that
a percentage of your diet should be raw,” Heath says. “But we try to
help people identify what works for them, not what we think they
should eat. There’s a big difference.” Rich in nutrients and enzymes,
uncooked, unprocessed and unrefined foods have been linked to a
laundry list of benefits – from brain function to gut health and almost
everything in between. “It’s simple: the more nutrient-dense your
diet is – the more you can assimilate and digest and absorb a diverse
range of nutrients – the better your health is going to be,” Heath
continues. “A big part of that is fibre and phytonutrients from plants.
There are certain nutrients that heat destroys, so we do need some
foods to be fresh and raw.”
When managed correctly, “the World Health Association says that
a plant-based diet is appropriate and beneficial at all stages of
life,” he adds. Throughout her recent pregnancy with the couple’s
first child, Jesse, Emma supported her health with a balanced diet
informed by this very philosophy. “What we do at The Raw Kitchen
is completely family friendly,” Heath emphasises. “If we care about
our kids, we’ve got to get them off one thing – and that’s processed
carbohydrates. If we can just give parents a few simple ideas of how
to blitz, blend and present fresh wholefoods and get that into their
kids, then that’s massive.”
Wholegrains, fresh fruit and veg, legumes, nuts and seeds are the
building blocks of the dairy- and gluten-free seasonal menus the
couple designs for The Raw Kitchen in collaboration with head chef,
33
 “ It’s the ‘why’ of everything that’s important
– the why we eat those foods, the why we
choose to exercise, to do yoga, to meditate
and why we chose to become plastic free
Mirko Lummert. “I think it’s more about what we don’t use,” Emma
explains. “We don’t use any additives or preservatives, refined prod-
ucts, cane sugars, bad oils or refined carbohydrates. We use real
wholefood ingredients to create all components of the menu.”
“We try to run with themes,” Heath adds. “Superfoods such as qui-
noa, seaweed, medicinal mushrooms and spirulina are important
because they’re the most nutrient-dense.” Nut-based cheeses, sour
cream and mayonnaise are made onsite, along with the cashew,
macadamia and almond milks used to whip up drinks at The Raw
Kitchen’s dedicated smoothie bar. House ferments and pickles such
as beetroot cherry kimchi give a boost to dishes that include zucchini
pasta, quinoa bowls and ‘live’ pizzas. The kitchen fridge is stocked
with bottles of Gypsy Elixirs, the couple’s organic Kombucha brand
– also made onsite in a microbrewery using medicinal herbs. Raw
desserts, biodynamic wines and gluten-free beers round out the
menu. Determined to use locally sourced and house-made ingredi-
ents whenever possible, Emma and Heath are now consulting a food
scientist to start growing their own spirulina on the warehouse roof.
Inside, too, The Raw Kitchen is in perfect synergy with the food phi-
losophy that underpins it. The building, with its exposed brickwork,
steel rafters and polished concrete floors, oozes character and his-
tory. Repurposed orange bus seats serve as booths in the expansive,
light-flooded dining room. “We basically stripped everything back to
show the beauty of the building as it originally existed,” Emma says
of the year-long fit-out process. “We deconstructed the building to
release its essence,” Heath concurs, “which is exactly what we’re
doing with the food, too. We’ve always said that the Raw Kitchen is
50% menu, 50% venue.”
The warehouse upgrade gave the couple enough space to “bring all
the different elements that we’re really passionate about together,”
Emma reflects. “Food is the heart of what we do, and I guess it’s what
attracts people to the venue, but it was always much more than food
for us.” Heath agrees: “Food is just one part of a holistic lifestyle. In
fact, the more you get into it, the more you realise that food is only
really a small part of it. It’s the ‘why’ of everything that’s important
– the why we eat those foods, the why we choose to exercise, to do
yoga, to meditate and why we chose to become plastic free.”
In 2015, The Raw Kitchen received a Sustainability Initiative Award
from the City of Fremantle in recognition of Emma and Heath’s efforts
to make their venue as low impact as possible. Plastic straws have
been eradicated from the smoothie bar, and a second use is found
for almost everything – even old menus are upcycled to make loyalty
cards. Customers can take home leftover jars from the kitchen or
bags of shredded scrap paper for composting. Leftover table water is
used to nourish the plants in the dining room.
34
”
As well as the restaurant and smoothie bar, The Raw Kitchen houses
a yoga studio, now managed by YogaLab Fremantle. Heath naturally
gravitated to the educational side of the business, so they also set
aside the warehouse mezzanine as a venue for classes, lectures
and film nights. A regular program of events sees him teaching the
benefits of plant-based eating and medicinal foods through hands-
on, experiential workshops, often co-hosted with other industry
practitioners.
Working alongside retail manager, Leah – who also happens to be her
sister – Emma’s energy has been focused on Zero, the retail space set
on the building’s ground floor. Channelling an “old-school experience
of way back in the day, when the shop assistant knew you by name,”
Zero will soon offer bulk natural beauty and cleaning products along-
side a huge array of plastic-free and zero-waste pantry and house-
hold items. “Maybe you’re just coming in to refill your toothpaste,”
Heath offers, “but at the same time, it’s a bonding experience.”
Ever since The Raw Kitchen’s humble market days, fostering com-
munity and encouraging human connection has been an undercur-
rent to the business. “Because it was Heath and I from the get-go,
we have these beautiful, authentic, face-to-face connections with
our customers,” Emma says. There’s no doubting that the couple’s
down-to-earth attitude and inclusive approach has helped The Raw
Kitchen earn its loyal following. “We’re not at all militant about our
belief systems, and we’re certainly not anti-animal foods or anti-
meat eating,” Heath says. “The way we see it, we’re super inclusive.
If you can’t eat gluten, if you’ve got a dairy problem or if you choose
not to eat meat – you can still come to our place. There’s no one alive
who can’t eat what we’re offering.” Emma chimes in: “Except maybe
if you have a nut allergy.”
“We’re very mindful of our greater goal, which is showcasing plant-
based to be accessible and enjoyable for everyone,” she continues.
“We often come across people who get so caught up in healthy
eating, it reaches a point where it’s anti-health. It’s possible to
get obsessive and expect too much out of food – to think that just
because you’re eating what you perceive to be the healthiest, clean-
est diet, it’s going to solve all your problems. Health is so much more
than food. Above even what the ingredients of a meal are, there’s the
happiness factor. That’s why we’re focused on clean, healthy eating
that’s still incredibly enjoyable.”
“It’s about the whole experience: the menu, the venue, the entertain-
ment, the service,” Heath agrees. “The Raw Kitchen is a gathering
place where people can bond over food.”

35
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36
 Hey Brisbane
Whether your cafe is a dream in your head or you’re a bit further along your coffee journey, we’re here
for you. Literally. Our new home in East Brisbane is about getting our people closer to our customers
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26 Wellington Road, East Brisbane, Queensland

 S U PE RR O L EMODEL

keep the faith

FOR MANY OF US, FAITH AND FEMINISM HAVE AN UNEASY RELATIONSHIP
– BUT THE TWO AREN’T ALWAYS MUTUALLY EXCLUSIVE. IN FACT, THEY
CAN BE PERFECTLY COMPLEMENTARY – JUST ASK DR SUSAN CARLAND.

words CARODY CULVER
photos LINSEY RENDELL

..........

38
The Melbourne author, academic, feminist and Muslim convert is a
champion of women’s rights who strives to demolish tired stereo-
types of Muslim women as passive victims of their religion. Through-
out everything she takes on – teaching and researching at Monash
University, maintaining a media presence and an international profile
as a leading Muslim voice, challenging persistent anti-Islamic senti-
ment and raising two children with her TV presenter husband, The
Project’s Waleed Aly – Susan’s faith is what keeps her grounded and
keeps her going.
“There was no one moment that led to my conversion,” Susan
recalls. “Just a small, quiet series of realisations that culminated
in me choosing the faith.” She was 19 when she made the choice,
and had spent those 19 years being raised in a very Christian house-
hold – Sunday school was compulsory for Susan and her brother
until they were teenagers. At 17, Susan began to question whether
Christianity was right for her – and the more she read about Islam,
the more she realised it was a path she had to follow.
“My faith gives me much-needed perspective and guidance,” she
explains. “It’s a source of comfort, and also a challenge – if you take
Islam (or any religion) seriously, it will force you to confront the areas
of yourself that need to change, and help you to be a better per-
son: more compassionate to yourself and others, more disciplined.”
Although she’s been a Muslim for almost two decades now, Susan
acknowledges that “my approach to my faith is always evolving and
changing. I don’t have the same approach to [it] that I did 20 years
ago, and I think that’s a good thing. It means I’m spiritually engaged,
not stagnating.”
Nineteen-year-old Susan was understandably terrified about reveal-
ing her change of religion to family and friends. Today, she remembers
that “some responses were positive, some not so positive. I can under-
stand the not-so-positive responses, as for most of them, all they
knew (or thought they knew) about Islam was incredibly negative.”
Unfortunately, not much has changed – in fact, it’s unquestionably
become worse. Susan converted before 9/11, and in the 16 years
since that tragedy, unfavourable and misinformed perceptions of
Muslims have proliferated across the west. Many people tend to con-
flate Islam with violent extremism, and tangled up in this is the notion
that all Muslim women are oppressed because Muslim teachings and
practices are inherently sexist.
The reality, of course, is very different – and while the intersections
between feminism and Islam are complex and open to multiple
readings, there’s no question that they exist. “I think Islam can be
interpreted and practised in feminist ways, and I think it can be
interpreted and practised in very non-feminist ways,” Susan argues.
“While there are certainly interpretations that would take Muslims
outside the fold of Islam, there has always been a rich diversity of
scholarly opinions and views on nearly everything. The legitimate
difference of opinion in Islam is like a deep ocean – despite the
39
incorrectly rigid interpretation we often see presented – and has
been from the earliest days of Islamic scholarship.”
“In the end, every religion will be interpreted through the lens of
its followers,” she explains. “Some people will lean towards more
feminist or egalitarian interpretations, others the opposite. This is
not unique to Islam – every community on earth will have people
who have a more feminist way of looking at things, and a more patri-
archal approach. There are 1.6 billion Muslims in the world, and 1.6
billion ways to be Muslim.”
For Susan, one of those ways is wearing the hijab – which, while
“ultimately… an act of worship,” can also be interpreted as a feminist
choice. “In a society where women’s bodies are used to sell every-
thing from toothpaste to cars – where our bodies can feel like they
40
have been totally commodified – there is something freeing about
wearing the hijab and saying, ‘I choose who sees my body and who
doesn’t’,” Susan remarks. “This isn’t a comment on how any other
woman dresses – I think all women should be able to choose to dress
the way they want. But for me, there is something about wearing the
hijab in today’s society that is a rejection of the appalling way women
are reduced to how their bodies look, and I appreciate that.”
Susan’s path from Christian schoolgirl to leading Muslim represen-
tative has largely been shaped by her twin passions for learning and
faith. Always a keen scholar, Susan attained two bachelor’s degrees
at university (one in science and one in arts) before pursuing a PhD.
In 2004, she was named Australian Muslim of the Year, an honour
she describes as “lovely and a total surprise” (although she jokingly
laments that “there was no crown or sash”). Since that time, her
profile has only grown – in 2005, she co-created Australian panel
and sketch show Salam Cafe, which took a humorous look at what
it’s like to live as a Muslim in contemporary Australia; she’s appeared
on numerous other TV programs as an expert on women and Islam,

“
including Q&A, Sunrise and Compass, and is a regular guest on ABC
TV’s News Breakfast; she’s had work published in anthologies such
as Women of Letters; she was named a Muslim Leader of Tomorrow
by the United Nations Alliance of Civilizations; she’s been listed as Every community on
one of the 500 Most Influential Muslims in the World; and she’s cur-
rently director of the Global Studies program at Monash University’s earth will have people
National Centre for Australian Studies.
In 2016, Susan’s star rose even further when her PhD became a criti-
who have a more feminist
cally acclaimed book, Fighting Hislam: Women, Faith and Sexism,
which explores how Muslim women combat sexism without com-
way of looking at things,
promising their faith. Susan interviewed numerous women for her
research, and describes the most surprising aspect of the process
and a more patriarchal
as how much it bolstered her. “Just listening to [the women’s] funny,
brave, smart, tireless stories was so heartening and encouraging,”
approach. There are 1.6
she says. “Social change work can feel hard or futile at times for any- billion Muslims in the

”
one, not just Muslim women, and listening to them and recording
their words was such an unexpected gift to myself.” world, and 1.6 billion
Susan’s research also offered ample evidence of how Islam can
indeed be interpreted and enacted in feminist ways. “Far from see- ways to be Muslim.
ing their faith as a stumbling block to their liberation,” she says of
the women she interviewed, “they saw it as a vital tool, such as the
Australian woman who organised anti-domestic violence workshops
and used Islam as the platform for her work, or the American woman
who fought back against women’s unfair treatment at the mosque
and based her arguments in religious teachings. The women I inter-
viewed were drawing on centuries-old teachings that Islam gave to me, so long as they can come up with evidence for their arguments,
women very early on – the right to education, the right to initiate and she says. “My students are generally smart, passionate and thought-
refuse marriage, the right to divorce, the right to inherit, the right to ful, and that makes me very hopeful about our future.”
work and keep her own money, the right to keep her surname, the
right to be a religious scholar – and saying that these were their God- Despite all her incredible achievements as a writer, academic and
given rights, and would not be ceded.” thinker, Susan defines her proudest moment as getting her scuba-
diving licence. “There was one part of the test – taking your mask
Although Susan doesn’t view herself as an official spokesperson for
off, then putting it back on and clearing it, all while under the ocean
Muslim women, she’s often expected to adopt this role because of
– that for some reason kept sparking genuine panic in me. I forced
her public profile. “There have been many times where I’ve heard
myself to complete it even though I was terrified and exhausted by
or read things that are being circulated as unchallenged fact about
this point. It sounds insignificant, but I was proud that I refused to
Muslim women and I’ve felt compelled to participate in the debate
– a sort of ‘if not me, then who?’ attitude,” she says, “but the reality walk away even though I found it physically hard and scary, and kept
is that if you are a Muslim woman living in Australia, you are often failing at it.”
expected to be an expert on these topics, as well as the entire Middle Far from insignificant, Susan’s experience could be read as a meta-
Eastern political history... so you don’t really get to opt out.” phor for how she handles her life in the spotlight and carries out her
This prominence is helping Susan create change by engaging others mission to educate others about Islam: stay calm and persist, even
in important conversations about what it means to be a Muslim and when ill-informed animosity comes your way. In 2015, she devised a
a woman in today’s uncertain world. Fighting Hislam is a brave and novel way to respond to at least some of that animosity: for every abu-
necessary attempt to unpick cultural stereotypes and validate the sive tweet she gets, she donates $1 to the children’s charity UNICEF.
choices and experiences of women who are practising Muslims and “Honestly, I’m not sure what the best response is,” she admits. “One
practising feminists. The more these perspectives – those grounded thing I do firmly believe, however, is that you almost never change
in the reality of living as a Muslim – are given space, the more we someone’s mind, or endear them to your way of thinking, by humili-
can shift perceptions that are based on misinformation and preju- ating them. This doesn’t mean we have to smilingly pander to deeply
dice. “Only about 2.6% of Australia is Muslim (despite many Austra- offensive beliefs, but humiliating others is not the way to go. I’m not
lians thinking the figure is much higher),” Susan reveals, “meaning sure if my approach changes anyone’s mind, but that was never my
that most Australians will not have a Muslim neighbour, colleague intention by doing it. My intention was to practically live the values I
or friend… their sole source of information about Islam is the media,
believed, regardless of what others said or did. If that changes minds,
which shows little more about Islam than the Islamic State, burqa
great. If not, OK – my intention was living a life of integrity.”

bans and Pauline Hanson’s opinion.”
But Susan is optimistic about widening those channels of information
and prompting people to challenge their assumptions. At Monash,
she thrives on hearing her students’ ideas and fostering their ability
to debate and discuss. “They are a diverse bunch of people and I
often tell them in my classes that I encourage them to disagree with

41
 S LOW L A N E







 
FOR NAOMI BULGER, NOTHING
SPARKS MORE JOY THAN THE SIGHT
OF A BEAUTIFULLY DECORATED
ENVELOPE PEEKING OUT OF THE
LETTERBOX.

In fact, the Melbourne-based writer and illustrator loves

creating and receiving snail mail so much that she spends
time sharing her know-how with others – inspiring people
around the world to slow down, reach for the pen and
paper and create something personal that’ll add a cheery
glow to a loved one’s day.

words NAOMI BULGER

.......

42
When did you last receive a handwritten
letter? How did the letter make you feel?
When did you last receive an email? How
did that make you feel?
I can’t speak for you, but I know when I hear
that familiar ‘ding’ telling me I have a new
email, what I don’t feel is a rush of joy or a
tingling of anticipation. I can’t turn it over in
my hands, marvelling at the spidery hand-
writing. When I receive an email, my first
thought is not gratitude that someone has
thought of me and taken time out of their
day to write to me – smudged ink, spelling
mistakes and all. A letter, on the other hand,
carries all of that and more in one paper
envelope – and that’s what I hope to share
every time I write to someone.
Last month, I sat down at the dining table
to write a letter to my friend Brenner. It’s
not easy to write to Brenner. In October last
year, she and her family sold their home and
took to the road in a renovated 1986 caravan.
“Heading west,” they told friends, and that
was as far ahead as they planned. So when
she told me they’d be stopping at a caravan
park for five days in a row, I hurried to the post
office to send a letter before they moved on. HANDWRITTEN MAIL IS PERSONAL
But I don’t believe I could have anticipated
There are signs of the writer’s thoughts and feelings in their very words. That familiar slant (the
the impact my mail would have on my friend.
way they write the letter ‘f’ with a funny loop), and the workings of their mind and heart in pen
Perhaps she couldn’t have, either.
and ink. The letters might grow hasty and scrawling as their thoughts race through a story, or you
This is what she shared on Instagram the day may see hesitation: one word crossed out in favour of another, mistakes corrected, notes in the
my mail arrived: “I didn’t realise until today margins. It is your friend, before you on the page.
that a difficulty in travelling for a year is not
being able to receive mail. Today this parcel YOU’RE CREATING SOMETHING TANGIBLE
arrived and I have been emotionally fragile A letter from a loved one is something physical that you can hold in your hands. Their fingers
ever since. When the package was placed in made that crease to fold the paper, now yours smooth it open. A letter is a keepsake, something
my hands with Naomi’s name written on the you can carry around in your pocket to read and reread for months or even years. I’ve heard
back, I could feel the tears build behind my of letters being called ‘artefacts of relationships’ – mementos of love, friendship and shared
eyes. It was as if all the love and familiarity of moments in a life.
home was sitting within my hands. I haven’t
been able to put the letter down, for fear that SITTING DOWN TO WRITE IS AN EXERCISE IN MINDFULNESS
doing so may cause me to break apart into a The very fact you are writing by hand slows you down and makes multitasking impossible,
million tiny pieces. This is the power of snail forcing you to be present in the moment and give your full attention to the person you’re
mail. Pick up a pen and write to someone writing to. It has been said that therapeutic letter-writing can have an even greater impact on
whose life will change the moment your let- the writer than journaling, because of the intention in a letter to share thoughts, feelings and
ter is placed within their hands. You might be experiences with someone else.
surprised just who that person might be, and
the impact your letter may have.” SNAIL MAIL HELPS YOU EXPRESS YOUR CREATIVITY
It turned out that, for Brenner, the com- During the mid-20th century, anti-establishment Fluxus artists used the postal system to
bined weight of text messages, emails and share work with one another, collaborate and circumvent traditional gallery shows – and an
social-media conversations simply couldn’t entire movement of ‘mail art’ blossomed. Today, people express themselves with handmade
match the value of one handwritten letter. postcards, painted or decorated envelopes, oddly shaped packages, vintage stamps and many
And she’s not alone in that experience. The other creative elements in order to make something unique and beautiful for their friends.
world has never been more connected,
and it has never been faster, easier or more YOU’RE GIVING OTHERS THE GIFT OF TIME
convenient to stay in touch. Yet, the more I’ve heard it said that time, not money, is the greatest commodity of our century. Instead of
scarce ‘real’ mail becomes, the more it hitting ‘like’ on Facebook, take the time to think about somebody else and write your thoughts,
seems we value it. I believe there are many emotions or experiences down for them. For the person who opens your letter, that gift of your
reasons why this is the case. time can create a little piece of magic in an otherwise ordinary day.

43
 BE HI ND THE S E AM S

44
second skin
WITH AN INCREASING CONSUMER
APPETITE FOR VEGAN LEATHERS, A
HANDFUL OF DEDICATED INNOVATORS
ARE DEVELOPING ANIMAL-FREE
ALTERNATIVES FROM THE MOST
UNLIKELY OF SOURCES.
words NICOLE LUTZE photos SUPPLIED

..........

Traditional leather manufacturing often takes place in some of the

world’s poorest countries and is frequently fraught with environmen-
tal and social concerns. Vulnerable workers are exposed to danger-
ous chemicals and dyes before untreated toxic wastewater is pumped
into water sources where locals drink, bathe and wash their clothes.
But what if alternatives could be produced with minimal environmen-
tal impact while providing safe employment for local people? Enter
the humble pineapple, banana and mushroom.
At the forefront of the vegan leather revolution is Piñatex, a natural
leather alternative produced from pineapple-leaf fibres. Dr Carmen
Hijosa, creator of Piñatex and CEO of its distributing company Ananas
Anam, developed the concept when working as a design consultant
in the Philippines. Concerned with practices in the local leather
industry, she began strategising an alternative product using waste
from the already abundant pineapple industry. “When I went inside
tanneries for the first time in the 1990s, I immediately realised I could
no longer work with leather,” recalls Carmen. “I was shocked by the
water pollution – and you could see the people working there were
not well. The fumes and smells were awful.” Her creation transforms
pineapple leaves into a non-woven mesh, which is then treated to
become a leather-like material ideal for use anywhere from fashion
to furniture.
Carmen’s bold decision to boycott leather came despite having pre-
viously run a successful luxury leather goods brand. “When I had my
first company it was all about luxury – they were beautiful products
that were expensive, but I never really thought about where they were
coming from,” she says. It was only when Carmen began working as
a consultant, prior to her trip to the Philippines, that she began to
consider the hardships endured by the workers behind the products.
Carmen focused her work in the Philippines on creating a high-
quality woven bag collection utilising local Filipino resources and
traditions. Her time spent with weavers exposed her to pineapple-
leaf fibres, which were used to create men’s traditional woven shirts
called Barong Tagalog.
Hooked on the potential of the pineapple, Carmen spent the next
15 years theorising leather alternatives, and finally, in her late fifties,
delved into comprehensive research and development while under-
taking a PhD at London’s Royal College of Art. Seven years later, her
brainchild, Pinãtex, was launched to the world.
The creation of Pinãtex begins on pineapple farms where the fibres
are extracted from leaves. They are then turned into mesh in local
factories in a process devoid of chemicals or water. Rolls of the
mesh are then shipped to Spain, Carmen’s birth country, where the
finishing process takes place. Textile manufacturing commonly uses
a water-intensive dip-dyeing process, which Pinãtex avoids by using
resins containing pigment dyes. In fact, steam to soften the material
is the only water used throughout this final process.
“The beauty of using pineapple-leaf fibres is that we are using an
agricultural waste product and providing a secondary income to
farmers,” explains Carmen. “Annually, pineapple farming creates
approximately 13 million tonnes of pineapple-leaf waste globally. We
need about 480 leaves, or 26 pineapples, to make one square metre
of Pinãtex. Hypothetically, we could make 180 million square metres
of Pinãtex per season using waste.”
In stark contrast, synthetic leather alternative polyvinyl chloride
(PVC) is derived from chlorine and petroleum. Its production and
incineration produces one of the world’s deadliest man-made poi-
sons called dioxin, and, like other plastics, it doesn’t break down nat-
urally. And cattle farming is no better when it comes to sustainability.
About six million tonnes of bovine leather is produced annually from
an enormous global cattle herd of 1.5 billion. According to reports
by Greenpeace, the cattle sector is responsible for about 80% of all
deforestation in the Amazon region, with the Brazilian Amazon having
the greatest annual rate of deforestation in the world. “The reality
is it’s not sustainable to have so many animals in the world,” says
Carmen. “We are using our land, our resources and our food to keep
animals instead of feeding people.”
Pinãtex is suitable for all types of items that are traditionally made
from animal skin, such as bags, shoes, coats, skirts, sofas, car inte-
riors and more. It’s been utilised by brands such as Edun, Bourgeois
Boheme, Po-Zu and Votch, while Puma are also in the process of
producing a prototype shoe.

45

BOURGEOIS BOHEME ‘VICTORIA’ PINATEX VEGAN
SLIDES (FROM WELL MADE CLOTHES)
However, there is one downside to Pinãtex: the resin used to make
the final product is man-made and does contain some petroleum.
But research is underway to develop an alternative resin, with Car-
men hoping to reduce the petroleum content to about 10%. “Noth-
ing in the natural world is strong enough to make Pinãtex useable like
real leather, so we do need some petroleum base,” she admits.
Not far from the Philippines in the small Micronesian island of Kosrae,
American Matt Simpson has landed on his own natural leather alter-
native – using waste banana trees. While working as a teacher in Kos-
rae, Matt noticed upon graduation that many students were forced
to leave the island for work, so he founded his vegan fibre company
Green Banana Paper in an effort to create local employment.
Motivated to utilise local resources, Matt spent two long years
researching banana-fibre use, taking inspiration from paper-making
predecessors as well as countries such as India, where the fibre
is used for woven products. In 2014 he leased some land, built an
open-air eco-factory and began purchasing discarded banana trunks
from local farmers.
In early 2015, Matt commenced production with local workers, and
later that year he created a vegan wallet prototype. “At first we were
making paper, but when we saw that the natural qualities of the
banana paper could act like leather, we began to produce wallets,”
explains Matt. “It’s similar to the point that we call it ‘banana leather’,
and it’s strong enough to replace leather for certain products, but
you couldn’t make a pair of shoes out of it.”
Banana ‘leather’ is strong, flame resistant and biodegradable, and
is made from a natural waste product of the banana-growing indus-
try. After bearing fruit, the banana tree stem dies naturally, as small
shoots called suckers spring up from the parent stem. Once the
fruit is harvested, the dead trunk is cut down to allow the suckers
to grow and produce more trees and more fruit. Usually, the dead
trunk is simply left to rot.
46
Because the wallets are made from a very thick type of paper,
customers often suspect they’ll break down if exposed to water.
Not so, says Matt: “Banana trees have about 90% water in them for
their whole life. Because the fibres are always in contact with water,
they’re naturally water resistant. Once soaked in water and allowed
to dry again, a piece of banana paper will be just as strong as it was
initially – though we apply a vegan wax to stop water absorption
before it occurs.”
Green Banana Paper now employs 25 people and is the second-
largest private sector employer in Kosrae. While the strong fibre
can be used for some products, at this stage it’s not quite a straight
replacement for leather, like Pinãtex. A middle ground between the
two can be found in a third leather alternative, made rather aston-
ishingly from a parasitic fungus.
That discovery was made in 2015 during a hiking trip in northern
Italy. Researchers from Grado Zero Espace, an Italian research and
design corporation, stumbled across a large mushroom-like fungus
growing on a tree. Intrigued by its unique shape and suede-like tex-
ture, they took the fungus back to the office in Florence to share
with their small team.
“Our aim for some time had been to find materials with a low envi-
ronmental impact,” explains Giada Dammacco, one of the company
founders. “Over the years we’ve received many requests to research
new leather-processing techniques for tanneries. Instead we sought
to discover new materials and avoid animal materials entirely.”
Laboratory analysis soon confirmed the researchers had found a
naturally occurring parasitic fungus called Phellinus ellipsoideus,
which attacks trees growing in subtropical regions. Removing the
fungus benefits affected trees, while its antibacterial qualities make
it ideal for use in direct contact with human skin. Produced with-
out the use of any toxins or chemicals, the end product, which they
named MuSkin, is breathable and suede-like, and can either be used
as is or thickened by applying a laminate backing. MuSkin is cur-
rently used in place of bovine leather for shoes, upholstery, bags,
jewellery and more.
“MuSkin’s uniqueness is that every piece is different, which is why
artisans like it so much,” says Giada. “Currently we don’t farm the
fungus, and only sell small quantities. We believe it is theoretically
possible to enlarge production and cultivate the fungus so that it can
be standardised for mass production, but we need to decide if we will
focus our business in that direction.”
With increasing demand for vegan products, research into leather
alternatives continues. Meanwhile the leather industry is attempting
to clean up production, with some producers returning to more sus-
tainable vegetable tanning options. But is that enough? According to
Carmen, our future depends on our ability to wind back dependence
on animal farming. “What it all comes down to is being responsible,”
she says. “We have got to eat less meat. We have got to have fewer
agricultural animals. We need the lungs of the earth, like the Amazon
basin, in order to survive.”

 TOP LEFT: KRISTEL PETERS MUSKIN SHOES TOP RIGHT: MUSKIN CHAIR BOTTOM LEFT: ‘LEATHER’ WALLET
FROM GREEN BANANA PAPER BOTTOM RIGHT: PINATEX PRODUCTS

“
Over the years we’ve received many requests to
research new leather processing techniques for

”
tanneries. Instead we sought to discover new
materials and avoid animal materials entirely.

47
  


Wednesday 24 April, 2013, started out much like any other day in





FIVE YEARS ON FROM THE RANA
PLAZA FACTORY DISASTER, FASHION
REVOLUTION’S RALLYING CRY OF
“WHO MADE MY CLOTHES?” RINGS
OUT ACROSS THE GLOBE LOUDER
THAN EVER.
words EMILY LUSH
photos COURTESY OF FASHION
REVOLUTION AND CLAUDIO MONTESANO CASILLAS
..........
48
Dhaka, Bangladesh. Rush hour hit, and people poured into Rana
Plaza, a factory, apartment and retail building in the Savar district
on the western fringe of the city. Garment workers sat at their sew-
ing machines – labels for 31 clothing brands, including Mango, Pri-
mark and Benetton, spread out before them – when, just before
9am, the building began to shake. Within minutes, a major struc-
tural failure had reduced the eight-storey Plaza to a pile of rubble.
Unable to escape, 1138 people lost their lives. Another 2500 injured
workers would be pulled alive from the debris in the hours and days
that followed.
The world watched in horror as information about the deadliest
garment factory accident in history started to surface. The build-
ing’s owners had reportedly ignored warning signs, such as fissures
in the concrete. Shops and a bank had been evacuated, but not
the five garment factories on Rana Plaza’s upper floors. Driven by
production quotas and the bottom line, management had ordered
their staff to work on regardless.
For many, the revelations that came out of Rana Plaza confirmed
something they had long suspected: the basic human rights of
Bangladesh’s 3.6 million garment workers – as well as the other 75
million-odd people who work in the global garment trade – were not
being upheld. The fast fashion industry that had permitted incidents
 LEFT: FASHION REVOLUTION PARTICIPANTS TOP RIGHT: A YOUNG GARMENT WORKER AT HER WORK STATION, BY CLAUDIO MONTESANO
CASILLAS. DUE TO A HUGE WORKLOAD, YOUNG WORKERS ARE NOT ABLE TO PURSUE ANY BASIC EDUCATION. BOTTOM RIGHT: AN ILLEGAL
GARMENT FACTORY ON THE OUTSKIRTS OF THE CENTRE OF DHAKA, BANGLADESH, BY CLAUDIO MONTESANO CASILLAS.

like Rana Plaza and the Tazreen factory fire – which had claimed the
lives of at least 117 Bangladeshi garment workers in November 2012 –
was in desperate need of an overhaul.
Three months after Rana Plaza, some of ethical fashion’s bright-
est minds and most vocal advocates were gathered at the Ethical
Fashion Forum’s Source Summit in London. Carry Somers, the Brit-
ish designer behind ethical accessories label, Pachacuti, was among
them. “In the aftermath of Rana Plaza, everywhere I looked, there
were newspaper articles calling for a more ethical fashion industry,”
she remembers. “I knew we needed to find a way to channel public
concern into a longstanding campaign so that the victims of Rana
Plaza – and all the other tragedies that have occurred in the name of
fashion – would never be forgotten.”
That day, Carry and her colleague, fashion designer and academic
Orsola de Castro, founded Fashion Revolution – a consumer-
powered movement to call for a fairer, safer and more transparent
fashion industry. They pulled together a team of volunteers, and on
24 April, 2014 – the first anniversary of the Rana Plaza collapse –
inaugural Fashion Revolution Day events took place in 55 countries
around the world.
“We were global before we were even local,” says Mel Tually, Fashion
Revolution’s longstanding coordinator for Australia and New Zealand
and a member of the Global Advisory Committee. Headquartered
in the UK with Carry and Orsola at the helm, Fashion Revolution’s
model relies on a network of volunteer country coordinators and
student ambassadors who lead local-level activities. In 2018, more
than 100 countries – from Argentina to Zimbabwe – are set to for-
mally participate in Fashion Revolution, making it the movement’s
biggest year yet.
Relaunched in 2016 as Fashion Revolution Week, it now incorporates
seven days of campaigning and events held annually each April.
While garment workers remain at the heart of what they do, Fashion
Revolution has expanded to cover “issues of transparency, traceabil-
ity, responsibility and product stewardship from both a labour rights
and an environmental perspective,” Mel explains. The movement
revolves around three major themes: the business of fashion (models
of production and consumption); materials (especially the environ-
mental impact of the fashion industry, the world’s second-biggest
polluter); and mindset (shifts in society that mean we now buy 400%
more clothing than we did two decades ago). “We are charged with
engaging all stakeholders in the industry – bodies and organisations,
unions and governments, brands, wholesalers, the education sector,
producers and, of course, consumers,” she says.
“Because it’s an open-source movement, we encourage anyone
and everyone to take part in whatever way they like,” Mel continues.
Fashion Revolution Week typically involves a diverse program of

49

ABOVE: FASHION REVOLUTION CAMPAIGN IMAGES FOR ‘WHO
MADE MY CLOTHES’ RIGHT: A YOUNG FEMALE WORKER POSES
IN FRONT OF HER SUPERVISOR AT AN INFORMAL FACTORY
IN THE SUBURBS OF DHAKA, BANGLADESH, BY CLAUDIO
MONTESANO CASILLAS
50
fashion-themed events, including film screenings, open studios,
clothing swaps, panel discussions, guest lectures and workshops. In
2017, more than 66,000 people attended 1000 Fashion Revolution
events organised by country teams across the globe. Social media
campaigns are staged throughout the week, and social experiments
– like the viral ‘2 Euro T-Shirt’ stunt that took place on the streets of
Berlin in 2015 – are deployed to focus public attention on the cause.
Fashion Revolution’s flagship campaign and biggest success is the
#WhoMadeMyClothes hashtag. Consumers are encouraged to
directly engage with fashion brands by posting photos of themselves
– typically with their clothes turned inside out, tags visible – on social
media. The idea is to elicit information about the fashion supply chain
by prompting brands to disclose their clothing’s providence. “The
concept of asking brands for transparency was very clear to us from
the beginning,” explains Orsola, Fashion Revolution’s co-founder.
“But the ‘Who Made My Clothes’ hashtag was originally coined by us
as a team a little later. In fact, it was ‘Who Made Your Clothes’ in the
first year, and we switched to ‘Who Made My Clothes’ in year two. It’s
the directness and simplicity that makes it work. For such a simple
question, it’s often very difficult to answer.”
In 2017, posts using the hashtag made a whopping 533 million impres-
sions on social media. Brands participated in record numbers, with
more than 2400 companies proactively responding to their custom-
ers, many using the complementary #IMadeYourClothes hashtag.
“People feel like they have a sense of ownership,” Mel says of the
success of the ‘Who Made My Clothes’ catchcry. “They’re not just
on the receiving end. We want people to be active consumers – and
that means having a voice. Everybody has a role to play, and there are
no barriers to entry – you really can be anyone in any country at any
level, and there’s something for you to take part in.”
Other online campaigns encourage conscious consumerism as an
alternative to fast fashion. Loved Clothes Last invites us to “fall back
in love with the clothes we already own” by penning love notes to
our most precious items. #Haulternative offers practical tips for
refreshing one’s wardrobe in ways that minimise social and environ-
mental impact – op-shopping, upcycling, swapping and mending.
Resources such as the ‘How to be a Fashion Revolutionary’ guide and
a bevvy of whitepapers and reports can be downloaded in exchange
for a small donation. There’s a three-part podcast hosted by fash-
ion journalist Tamsin Blanchard, and Fashion Revolution even has
a printed zine, now in its second edition, and an e-learning course
available on FutureLearn.
Behind the scenes, Fashion Revolution’s policy division works tire-
lessly year-round to lobby for industry-level change. In April 2017,
Head of Policy Sarah Ditty addressed the European Parliament on
behalf of Fashion Revolution, helping push through a resolution to
curb worker exploitation. Produced in collaboration with Microfi-
nance Opportunities, Fashion Revolution’s Garment Worker Diaries
project collected primary data from Bangladesh, Cambodia and
India to advocate for changes to living wages. Updated annually,
one of the movement’s biggest outputs is the Fashion Transparency
Index, which critically evaluates more than 100 brands based on
their transparency, and environmental and social initiatives.
Now considered the world’s largest fashion activism movement,
Fashion Revolution has opened up new lines of communication,
empowering people to raise their voices in ways that weren’t pos-
sible just a few years ago. Orsola puts the success down to “our lan-
guage, our approach and our inclusiveness – coupled with the fact
that we are sincere and positive. What we have done is accelerate the
 “ It’s the duty of conscious consumers to expose the
plight of the people who make our clothes and the
environmental impacts of fast fashion
conversation on fashion and sustainability, especially with a younger
audience.” Mel agrees: “Before Rana Plaza collapsed, there wasn’t
really a space to have a conversation about these issues. Now there
is. We’ve chosen to discuss it as an industry-wide problem – we don’t
name and shame brands. We’re not about boycotting. This is a system
breakdown, and the only way we’re going to solve it is if all stakehold-
ers come together. There’s no point in having one hero brand – the
whole industry needs to do it. And if that encourages a race to the top,
then that can only be a good thing.”
“Publishing factory lists is one of the biggest changes I’ve seen,” Mel
says of Fashion Revolution’s impact to date. “When brands start
hearing their own customers ask ‘Who Made My Clothes?’, that’s
when it hits home that a large portion of people are passionate and
interested. They use Fashion Revolution as a vehicle to talk about
what they’re doing. There are now more than 100 brands publishing
first- and some second-tier factory lists, up from around 20 when
we started.”
Nowhere on earth is the transition to a more transparent and fair
fashion industry more vital than in Bangladesh. Dhaka-based fashion
designer and arts entrepreneur Nawshin Khair pitched in on the day
Rana Plaza collapsed, helping to coordinate supplies and volunteers
for the rescue effort. A few years later, she joined Fashion Revolution
as country coordinator for Bangladesh. As a member of the Global
Advisory Committee, she offers invaluable insight into the situation
for Bangladeshi garment workers on the ground.
”
“Bangladesh is resilient,” Nawshin says. “Over the last five years,
things have changed for the better. NGOs have been working with
factory owners to introduce worker benefits, such as health insur-
ance and childcare services. The Accord [a legally binding agreement
between brands and trade unions signed in the aftermath of Rana
Plaza] is helping to make many factories safer.” Positive pressure
generated by Fashion Revolution has played a role in these changes.
“Incidents like Rana Plaza indicate that there will always be loopholes
in the system,” Nawshin continues. “It’s the duty of conscious con-
sumers to expose the plight of the people who make our clothes and
the environmental impacts of fast fashion. Fashion Revolution is a
single voice. It’s important we keep focused and maintain this union
because there is so much more to rectify.”
In the years to come, Fashion Revolution will build on its impact
to date by taking a deeper dive into the supply chain. Large-scale,
public tragedies such as Rana Plaza have focused global attention on
garment workers – but ‘invisible’ workers at the furthest reaches of
the fashion complex are just as vulnerable. “Input suppliers, embroi-
derers, those who work the cotton fields and make synthetics – these
are the people who are hard to get to,” Mel explains. “The bottom line
is that anyone could be making your clothes. Would you be happy for
your neighbour to be working in unsafe conditions for anything less
than a basic wage? When you try to put someone you know in that
place, most people say, ‘No, I’m not OK with that.’ It’s about recognis-
ing that there are people behind everything we wear, and that those
people have needs and desires and dreams just like you and I.”

51
 



SIZEABLE OR SMALL, CHAOTIC OR CALM, RAMBUNCTIOUS OR RESERVED,
NUCLEAR OR NON-CONFORMIST – FAMILIES COME IN ALL KINDS OF FLAVOURS.
And it’s certain that, whatever your family setup, nobody else’s is quite the same as yours. We spoke to a few people
to discover more about their tribes and the things that make them unique – because in the words of Michael J Fox
(of Family Ties fame): “Family isn’t an important thing; it’s everything.”
interviews REBECCA JAMIESON DWYER

TRAVELLING TO THE TORRES STRAIT ISLANDS WITH HER





GRANDMOTHER STARTED GRACE LILLIAN LEE ON A JOURNEY OF
SELF-DISCOVERY – LEADING HER TO EXPLORE HER INDIGENOUS
HERITAGE THROUGH WEAVING AND WEARABLE ART.
I am a descendant of the Doolah family
from Erub Island in the Torres Strait and I
also have Caucasian and Chinese heritage.
I express myself and explore who I am
through my work, while creating a space for
people to learn more about First Nations
Australian culture. I grew up in Cairns and
was raised by my parents, who were also
go-getters. Mum, who has German, Dan-
ish and English heritage, was a hairdresser
and Dad, who has Chinese and Torres Strait
Island heritage, was a painter. I definitely
think their drive has made me who I am
today – it was obvious that I was going to
use my hands to create, just like they have.
In 2010 I took my grandma back to the
Torres Strait after she’d been on mainland
Australia for 57 years. This coming home
gave me the push to figure out who I am
as an Indigenous woman. That was eight
years ago, and it led to my current passion
for creating wearable art and working with
other communities. My weaving is a way to
connect with my ancestry and share the
rich culture we have.
It was amazing to see my grandma sur-
rounded by family members who had been
named after her but had never met her.
She hadn’t returned for such a long time,
but she hadn’t been forgotten. You could
see how much pain and joy it brought her
– it was very emotional.
We were visiting for the unveiling of my
grandma’s sister’s tombstone, and we took
part in cooking for the ceremony and being
part of the dance that was happening to
celebrate Grandma’s sister’s life – there was
a week’s worth of rehearsals beforehand.
I had so many questions about my identity
and why I hadn’t been brought up sur-
rounded by my family. Meeting family was
overwhelming, as I was introduced to over
60 people who I had bloodline connections
to. I felt so lucky to be accepted and wel-
comed home.
Grandma was a mess leaving Thurs-
day Island – her legs were weak and she
couldn’t stop crying as she took her last
step off the jetty onto the boat. I think she
knew she may not return again. This was
heartbreaking.
I haven’t been brought up in or surrounded
by my culture, and the Torres Strait is a
place I long to learn more about. I want to
discover who I am – and that’s why I weave.
The act of weaving has been a great way for
me to connect, learn more and explore
my lineage. It has also been a way to show
the wider community how beautiful and
diverse our culture is. I love this act of bal-
ancing the old ways with the new. It’s so
important to share this. GRACE LILLIAN LEE
I’ve recently woven my family tale into wear- artist and fashion designer
able art with my project A Weave Through
Time, using the grasshopper weaving tech-
nique I learned from my mentor Uncle Ken
Thaiday Senior. I used coconut palm fronds,
cotton webbing, linen, perspex and plastic
tubing to weave garments that were mod-
“
elled by my Grandma, my Aunty Rasma and
my cousin Rachael. I used family as models
because I wanted to show the progression
of the weave and also the progression of
life, representing the circle of life. Plus, it The act of
meant a lot to share the experience with weaving has
those who haven’t returned to the Torres
Strait, with the hope it might help them feel been a great
more connected.
way for me
I have a long-held dream to create a pur-
poseful platform to celebrate Aboriginal to connect,
and Torres Strait Island tradition and
culture in a contemporary way. I work with learn more
Indigenous communities around Australia and explore
to nurture a new dialogue for self expres-
sion that is informing, celebrating and my lineage. It
honouring the past, while creating oppor-
tunities that empower and engage young has also been
people through fashion. a way to show
I’ve returned to the Torres Strait multiple
times to continue on this quest of creating the wider
adornment and using fashion as a platform community
to celebrate our culture. I have worked
how beautiful
”
with Erub Art Centre to develop the very
first fashion collection of deconstructed
island dresses. I also plan to return just to and diverse our
connect with family again and have some culture is.
rest time.
I am very grateful for my family – I wouldn’t
be where I am today if it wasn’t for the sup-
port and love I’ve received from them.
53
 GROWING UP ON THE SUNSHINE COAST WITH CHINESE IMMIGRANT
PARENTS, MICHELLE LAW FELT TORN BETWEEN TWO CULTURES.
NOW SHE CREATES RICH, OFTEN HUMOROUS WORKS EXPLORING
THE CONTEMPORARY ASIAN-AUSTRALIAN EXPERIENCE.
Being part of one of the few Chinese families
on the Sunshine Coast was pretty isolating.
A lot of my formative experiences of racism
growing up on the coast have informed how
I feel about Australia today, and I do won-
der what life would have been like if I’d been
raised in a more multicultural place. Like
 


any hometown, it carries a lot of memories:
some of them wonderful and others not so
wonderful. I grew up during One Nation’s
rise in the 1990s so our family wasn’t very
popular. Author Reni Eddo-Lodge talks
about racism in Britain in her book Why I’m
MICHELLE LAW No Longer Talking to White People About
author, playwright and Race, but it certainly applies to Australia
too: “Forget politician-speak about Britain
screenwriter
being a tolerant country. Being constantly
“
looked at like an alien in the country you
were born in requires true tolerance.”
Some of the differences that struck me
I think hearing between my family and other families were
major things like food and living habits.
stories about how Everyone I knew wore their shoes indoors,
our own migrant which horrified me, and they didn’t drink
hot water or wash their fruit and vegeta-
parents and bles before eating them. My friends could
family members also be quite flippant towards their parents
and had a lot more freedom to go out and
struggled gave do whatever they wanted, whereas I was
raised never to speak back to my elders
us a deeper and my mum was super overprotective;
understanding of none of my siblings or I were allowed to go
to sleepovers.
the world being At meal times, we were never allowed to
bigger than eat until everyone was at the table, and the
”
serving order went from eldest to young-
ourselves and our est. I still feel strange if my older siblings
serve me at group dinners or pour me tea.
experiences
Our family dealt with discrimination and
racism from our community, both on an
overt level and as daily micro-aggressions.
It ranged from things like people tell-
ing us to go back to where we came from
(which always confused me, because I
was born in Buderim and have never been
to China), to people screaming “rice” at
us from their cars, to people breaking
into our yard and calling us “Asian c*nts”
through the flyscreen as we played board
games in our living room, to people prais-
54
ing us for speaking such amazing English.
We normally dealt with these instances by
laughing them off and making jokes among
ourselves, or – as we got older – banding
together and taking people down publicly.
Growing up and to this day, I still feel torn
between two cultures. I feel as if I exist in a
middle space, somewhere between being
Chinese and Australian, because I’m not
fully either. I spent a lot of time trying to
repress the Asian side of myself and it’s
only as I’ve gotten older that I’m learning to
embrace it properly.
The values my parents instilled in my sib-
lings and I are pretty priceless. We’re big
on respecting our elders, whether they’re
grandparents, family friends or siblings.
I’m the youngest so I don’t call any of my
siblings by their first names unless I’m
referring to them in conversation. Instead,
I call them the Cantonese words for ‘older
sister’ and ‘older brother’ or by their pet
names. Our parents also taught us to be
kind and generous towards other people,
because you don’t know how they are
struggling in their own way. I think hearing
stories about how our own migrant parents
and family members struggled gave us a
deeper understanding of the world being
bigger than ourselves and our experiences,
and of how it’s important to make an effort
to see a story from multiple sides. I think
that sense of curiosity influenced the cre-
ative kids in our family, too. (My brother
Ben’s also a writer and my sister Tammy is
a documentary photographer.)
Having Ben immortalise our family in The
Family Law, first as a book and then as a
TV series, has been so much fun. The book
is something I’ll always treasure, and it
was so entertaining seeing how the show
both captured the very real moments in
our family history and also deviated into
wild fiction, which made it feel like we were
just watching another show with made-
up characters. It’s quite bizarre knowing
there’s a public record of our family life
now, but I think it’ll be useful and a bit of
street cred for future Law generations!
DRIVEN TO UTILISE THE SKILLS OF THEIR TALENTED PARENTS,










ARTIST HANNAH NOWLAN AND HER BROTHER MICHAEL STARTED
GRAIN OF DESCENT – A BRAND CREATING HANDCRAFTED
LIFESTYLE PRODUCTS INSPIRED BY VICTORIA’S SURF CULTURE.
Grain of Descent consists of four members
of our family: my mum Wendy, dad Rick,
brother Michael and me. We aim to cre-
ate meaningful and valuable objects that
will last a lifetime or longer. The formation
of our business was a natural evolution
that felt like an unquestionable progres-
sion for us all. We are definitely the most
creative members of what is a pretty big
family – consisting of seven children in
total! Michael and I have been soaking up
knowledge of traditional techniques and
crafts from our parents for as long as we
can remember – the four of us are always
making, crafting and dreaming. When
Michael and I started Grain of Descent we
were the last two kids left in the coop. We
had a vision of embracing and empowering
our retired parents with all their incredible
hidden talents, and bringing them into the
modern era.
The name Grain of Descent is a bit of a play
on words regarding a line of descent. The
skills and traditional techniques we utilise
have been passed down from our grand-
parents to our parents and now to us.
This is our descent. The other element of
our name is ‘grain’, which stems from the
unique grain that forms within our materi-
als of timber, leather, fabric and canvas.
The Grain of Descent logo, which looks like
wood grain, is also actually Michael’s fin-
gerprint – this symbolises the unique grain
that runs through all of us and connects us
as a family.
The roles within the company have formed
quite naturally – we each focus on the
skills we have and the things we are most
passionate about. Dad is our incred-
ibly talented craftsman, woodworker and
framer; Mum is our textile designer, sewer
and dressmaker; Michael is our architect,
designer, woodworker and social media
manager; and I’m our artist, leathersmith,
co-framer and the person who takes care
of the website, customer service and sales.
Milo is the studio dog who always keeps us
company – Grain of Descent would be lost
without him!
The most influential wisdom my brother
and I have received from our parents, both
throughout our childhood and adult lives,
would definitely be an appreciation for
material, as well as the value of patience.
These are skills that are hard to teach – but
after spending time with our parents, it’s
easy to see how they’ve been so strongly
instilled within us. I think Mum and Dad
have evolved a lot since working with
myself and Michael. Their ability to see
more open-mindedly and intuitively while
playfully rethinking their approach to old
techniques and traditions is a really beau-
tiful evolution to see.
HANNAH NOWLAN
The high point of running a business with
my family is when we are all working grain of descent
together and thriving off one another’s cre-
ative energy – when we have fluent ideas
“
and a stream of creativity it’s really exhila-
rating! But seeing as the elements we work
on can be quite separate and individual, it
can be challenging at times to balance all We had a
the parts of our business cohesively.
vision of
There’s no doubt that there is plenty of
crossover between family and work, espe- embracing and
cially having our art studio and workshop
based in our home. However, one of our empowering
initiatives to balance the two is having dis- our retired
tinct work and family areas, allowing us to
switch off from work mode when we leave parents with all
certain spaces.
their incredible
My parents have great patience and very
family-focused attitudes, which I really hidden talents,
look up to. They have always been kind,
and bringing
”
easy-going parents with a lot of love to
give. I hope I can raise my own children like them into the
this one day. Plus I admire them for their
kid-rearing skills – seven kids is a lot! modern era
Family, to me, is an unbreakable bond. We
would all do anything for each other. Family
is also about not being too serious. Like
many Australian families, we all laugh and
take the piss out of one another at every
opportunity we get. This light-heartedness
is definitely a family trait that runs through
all of us, making even the heaviest of situ-
ations feel positive and hopeful.














 






56
SUNSHINE COAST-BASED GEORGIA BRIZUELA HAS BEEN











NAVIGATING SOLO PARENTING FOR THE PAST FOUR YEARS –
RAISING THREE SMALL HUMANS WHILE RUNNING A BUSINESS,
HOMESCHOOLING AND SHARING MEANINGFUL MOMENTS ONLINE.
I was scared each time I had a child that the
next one wouldn’t be as funny, but I’m very
proud – and relieved – that I’ve managed
to produce not one but three little jokers.
One of our favourite ways to spend time
together is making each other laugh. Lots
of silly nights, bad dance parties and sav-
age jokes, where no one is afraid to laugh
at their own expense. We also live walk-
ing distance to the beach and we all love
the surf. On hard days, on happy days and
especially on hot days, we’re in the sea. I
love holding our youngest in the surf and
watching the older two play ‘over or under’
in the waves.
Everyday life as a single parent who runs
a business, home educates and has a
daughter in a full-time vocational ballet
program is… tricky. You can have it all –
just not all at once. I try to remind myself
when I have business aspirations that
there is time for all my big goals, just not
right now. I’m very lucky to have a busi-
ness that allows me the freedom to select
the hours I shoot and do my work around
my children’s needs. Sometimes though,
it’s a juggle, and I’m editing while some-
one is skateboarding through the house
singing ABBA and throwing popcorn like
confetti at a wedding. (I wish this was a
hypothetical example.)
My sisters are my lifelines. One is older
than me, and has been a constant gener-
ous support – professionally, emotionally
and financially. She has shown up again
and again, and sent Youfoodz boxes so I’ve
always got emergency meals for when days
are rough. My younger sister comes to stay
at least once a month, helping with the kids
and being that best friend who offers to
hunt down everyone who’s ever hurt you.
I think what surprised me most about
becoming a single parent was there were
some aspects I preferred. I think single
parenting is – understandably – heav-
ily focused on the difficulties and chal-
lenges, so you don’t often hear people
saying there are aspects they love. And I
do love how much quality time being un-
partnered gives me with my children. I love
getting to decide where we go on holiday,
what we spend our money on. And I also
love knowing that I’ve got this – that is
such a feeling of accomplishment.
When I became a single parent, I thought
the hardest thing would be balancing a
budget alone, or the physically exhausting
weight of being the go-to for absolutely
everything. I think though, the hardest
thing is not having this person who adores
your kids as much as you do to turn to in
bed at night and say, “Aren’t they amaz-
ing?” Carrying the emotional spectrum of
parenting day-to-day by yourself can get GEORGIA BRIZUELA
very lonely. photographer
I am incredibly proud of working hard
these last few years towards an amicable
relationship with the father of my children.
When we first separated, I didn’t think this
would be possible and couldn’t foresee
being in the same room as him, let alone
getting to a place where we can invite him
to share in our joyous moments. It has
taken a lot of personal work and therapy,
but is something that’s been important for
me to give to our children.
I think the most helpful advice I’ve been
given is to be good to yourself – under-
standing that self-care is doing whatever I
can today to be kind to my future self. I try
to ask myself once a day or so what I can do
in the next hour that can make life better for
us next week, next year. Sometimes that’s
mental health care or exercise, and some-
times it’s sitting down and doing my taxes.
When my kids look back at their child-
hoods, I hope they remember the morn-
ings in bed cuddling, lots of laughing and
silliness, the afternoons slipping into the
sunset on the beach and the fact that I only
yelled a tiny bit – occasionally; barely.
When it comes to family, I am incredibly
grateful that family is adaptive and can
grow and change – your family dynamic
can become different, but your family is
constant. I was so scared when I became
a single parent that suddenly our family
would feel less or be inferior in some way,
when in reality it adapts, and we are just
as full and rich and loving in the dynamic
we become.
 MELBOURNE-BASED JARRAD AND MICHAEL DUGGAN-TIERNEY
ARE PROUD DADS TO THEIR SON REID. THROUGH THEIR POPULAR
INSTAGRAM ACCOUNT, THEY’RE HELPING TO DEMYSTIFY SAME-SEX
PARENTING AND PROMOTE ACCEPTANCE, LOVE AND EQUALITY.

We had a conversation on our very first
date about our strong yearning to be par-
ents. At that time it was only a dream, and
we never thought it would ever be pos-
sible. But then, around 10 years ago, we
watched a documentary about a same-sex



Our Instagram account ‘The Real Dads of
Melbourne’ has been going for just over
three years. One of our followers knew of
our love for the American reality televi-
sion empire Real Housewives and came
up with the suggestion of ‘The Real Dads’



couple from Melbourne who followed their
dreams and became parents via interna-
tional surrogacy. We Skyped with a number
of agencies all over the world and decided
on a reputable Indian surrogacy agency,
which had the best ethics, morals and
ongoing support for both us (the intended
JARRAD & MICHAEL parents) and the egg donor and surrogate.
DUGGAN-TIERNEY We spent over a year talking to the agency,
building trust and a relationship, which
real dads of melbourne was so important to us when making such
a huge financial and emotional decision.
Our journey wasn’t without its challenges –
we experienced a miscarriage the first time
around followed by a troublesome preg-
“
nancy. Early scans showed concerns over
the development of the baby’s kidneys and
our surrogate was hospitalised for a large
By sharing our part of the pregnancy. Understandably,
we were relieved the morning of 28 June
lives publicly, 2010 when we were handed our beautiful,
we not only five-pound-11-ounce, healthy baby boy.
We have never been able to put into words
keep family and that feeling of meeting our son Reid for the
first time. We experienced an overwhelm-
friends updated ing range of emotions – relief, excitement
with what we’re and pride – as our doctors handed us this
wrapped-up bundle that was only minutes
up to, but we old. We looked up through our teary eyes
and asked, “Do we have a boy or a girl?”
hope to send a
There is so much we love about being
positive message parents, and every age comes with its
moments where we have to stop and pinch
to people that
”
ourselves. We celebrate every milestone,
all families are from the early days of toilet training to,
most recently, Reid turning a corner with
different his reading and taking a keen interest in
books. Watching him follow his passions
and seeing that sparkle in his eye is defi-
nitely the most rewarding part. Our days
are pretty typical of any families who are
juggling working and their child’s routine
(or trying to). It’s important to both of us
to be present. We make an effort to ensure
one of us always drops Reid at school and
the other picks him up.
58
– and it’s stuck since then. By sharing our
lives publicly, we not only keep family and
friends updated with what we’re up to, but
we hope to send a positive message to
people that all families are different, and
that whether your family is made up of two
dads, two mums, one mum or one dad, you
can still raise a supported, loved, encour-
aged and respectful child.
We’ve been surprised by the amount of
support people have shown our family.
The most personally rewarding emails
are from people who’ve changed their
thoughts on marriage equality after
having seen the way we’re raising our
child. Thankfully, in the seven years we’ve
been parents, we’ve only been victim to a
small amount of negativity towards us as
a same-sex couple. The recent marriage
equality campaign in Australia certainly
exposed us to the opinions of the wider
community – and not everyone under-
stands or accepts diversity – but we both
have thick skin and choose not to react to
this. For our family, the vote wasn’t just
about marriage equality and us getting
married – it was also about a future for our
child (and his friends) where he has the
choice to love whomever he wants to love.
We hope when Reid is older he’ll be proud
of the decisions we made for him. We want
him to reflect on his childhood and realise
that, as parents, we tried our hardest to
give him the best opportunities we could.
To anyone else hoping to have their own
family, all we can say is it’s by far the most
amazing thing we’ve both done in our lives.
AFTER A NATURAL DISASTER FORCED THEM TO RE-EVALUATE










THEIR LIVES, NZ-BASED AMBER AND ANDY CLEVERLEY DECIDED
TO QUIT THE RAT RACE AND HIT THE ROAD – MOVING INTO A
CONVERTED BUS AND SHARING THEIR ADVENTURES ONLINE.
Our experience being trapped in a high-
rise building in the Christchurch earth-
quake was a real life-changer for us. We
were stuck on the twenty-second floor for
five hours after the internal fire stairs col-
lapsed. With no way out, we just had to
wait there and ride out the aftershocks.
The building was badly damaged and on
a lean, and we thought it might collapse
with the next aftershock that came. It was
the most terrifying experience, and it still
impacts us in our daily lives – I get frights
really easily and jump at particular noises
or if someone slams a door and the room
shudders. Andy and I both had post-trau-
matic stress disorder from our experience.
Andy’s was the worst – 18 months after the
earthquake he had a bit of a breakdown
and couldn’t work for four months. That’s
when we started to really think seriously
about living an alternative lifestyle.
We looked at different housing options,
but ultimately for us, a bus was the best
answer, as we wanted to travel as well as
quit the rat race. It took Andy 15 months to
convert it all by himself. He worked every
single weeknight and every single week-
end, as well as working his regular day job.
It nearly destroyed him, and us as well – it
was the hardest thing we have ever been
through as a family. We wanted to quit so
many times but just knew that, however
hard is was then, it would be 100 times
worth it once we’d finished. And it was. It
was worth every single day of being apart
and hardly seeing each other so we can
now live this free and exciting life together.
There are so many benefits of being free
from our old corporate life that it’s hard to
list them all. The main ones are time and
freedom. We have all the time in the world
to do whatever we want to do. We don’t
have alarms or bedtimes, we just get up
with the sun and go to bed when we are
tired. Unless we are out adventuring in the
dark after dinner, the kids are in bed at a
reasonable time so we can have some time
to ourselves in the evening, which is usu-
ally taken up with video editing for Andy
and work for me. We don’t mind working
in the evenings as we have all day together.
To not have to get up and go to work every
morning is just the most amazing feeling
and we still can’t quite believe it.
There are challenges living a life like this,
of course. One of them is four people liv-
ing together in a small space – it doesn’t
AMBER CLEVERLEY
bother us unless we have a few rainy days
in a row. That can be hard, so we try to bus life nz
plan our travel accordingly and make sure
“
we are somewhere with indoor things to
do. Another challenge is community – it
can be pretty lonely out here on the road
by ourselves. But we have met and made We hope our kids
some amazing friends along the way, who
we catch up with whenever we are in the remember all the
area. And we still feel like a bad day on the
bus is better than a good day in our old fun times we’ve
jobs and life. had together
Living in such a small space has really
made us reassess our belongings and how travelling around
many things we need as a family. Once I New Zealand, but
started seeing new purchases in terms of
how many hours I would need to work, I most of all, I hope
really stopped buying things I didn’t need.
For me, living this way has opened my they will reap
mind to a whole new way of thinking – I the benefits of
can’t walk through a mall anymore without
learning that life is
”
feeling sad about how much we all con-
sume unnecessarily at the expense of the
planet. It’s hard sometimes because new not about fitting
things are so pretty and shiny, but a friend inside a box
of mine said to me –“Just turn your wanter
off” – and so that’s what I have done. I
don’t really want things anymore, and I’m
just so much happier for it.
We hope our kids remember all the fun
times we’ve had together travelling around
New Zealand, but most of all, I hope they
will reap the benefits of learning that life
is not about fitting inside a box – it really
is just about being a happy and kind per-
son. And I hope they will understand one
day that we’re on this planet for a limited
number of days, so if they want to spend
their lives travelling, surfing and living out
of a van, then that’s awesome.
 E NLI GHTE NMI NT

HAVE YOU EVER NOTICED YOUR ENERGY LEVELS CAN

BE COMPLETELY DEPLETED ONE MINUTE AND FULLY
RESTORED THE NEXT?

We’ve all had the experience when an unkind comment has literally made our shoulders
sag. And most of us have had the opposite too – you only need to recall those first few
weeks of falling in love to know that energy comes from all kinds of places.
Our energy levels are impacted by the things we’re experiencing mentally and emotion-
ally, as well as by how much we exert ourselves physically. Fatigue is usually felt when we
exhaust our bodies and minds – or when we’ve created a cycle of over-stimulating the
nervous system with coffee, chocolate and stress.
While it may feel like managing your energy levels is beyond your control, there are some
positive steps you can take to help you feel balanced and energised more of the time.

LEARN TO LISTEN TO YOUR BODY

Your body is your greatest guide when it comes to monitoring your energy levels – learn to






tune in each morning and a couple of times during the day to see how you’re feeling. Listen
to your intuition about what you need, rather than following other people’s advice or old
habits. It might feel virtuous to work out at the gym every morning at 6am, but your body




could be telling you that you need something different. Maybe a yin yoga class or a walk in
nature would be more energising for you right now?
The same approach is best when it comes to food choices. Check in 30 minutes after

 
you’ve eaten and see how you feel. That sandwich at lunchtime might be making you weary
a few hours later, while stimulants like coffee might feel great in the short term but could be
waking you up in the middle of the night or causing a mid-afternoon slump. Try changing
things up to see what works best for you – and learn to trust what your instincts tell you.

BECOME FAMILIAR WITH WHAT DRAINS YOU

Once you’re confident in trusting your intuition, let it be your guide about energy across
all areas of your life. Begin to notice how different physical spaces affect your energy; start
to become aware of the emotional energy of different people (and notice when you take
on that energy in a positive or negative way); be mindful of the activities that deplete your
mental energy; and learn to measure your physical energy more accurately.
Feeling flat? Kate
James – coach, LET NATURE BE YOUR GUIDE
meditation teacher Human beings weren’t designed to behave like machines, yet most of us operate as
and author – helps though we are. We often switch ourselves on at 7am and keep going until 10pm every
day with very little downtime. Instead of pushing yourself until you break (it happens to
us mindfully f ind all machines eventually!), treat yourself like the element of nature you are. Wake with the
our way back to birds, start to slow down as the sun sets and give yourself permission to rest more when
feeling balanced the weather is cold.
Be guided by the changes of season and let your energy rhythms flow as they do. Autumn
and energised.
is a time to let go or to change; winter is a time for rest and recovery; spring is a time for
renewal; and summer is about lightness and joy.

CREATE HUMAN CONNECTION

Nothing will energise you more than connecting with people who make you feel seen and
understood. While competition can often seem rife and social media makes us compare
ourselves unfavourably to others, genuine connection is still something all of us crave.
Be willing to be vulnerable and reach out for support if you’re feeling isolated. Or take the
first step to create connection. It sometimes takes courage to reach for a hug, but you may
find that it’s worth the initial awkwardness once you’ve had a hit of the heart-warming and
energy-boosting hormone oxytocin. At the end of the day, love will recharge your energy
like nothing else at all.

LOOK OUT FOR KATE’S BOOKS ‘Believe In Yourself & Do What You Love’,
‘Be Mindful & Simplify Your Life’ and ‘Change How You Think & Be Happier Now’.

60
Made at
Shillington
Shillington’s innovative approach to design
education means students can achieve amazing
results in a seriously short amount of time.
In 3 months full-time or 9 months part-time you’ll
graduate with a polished portfolio of commercial
work, ready to land your dream job. Make your
creative career with Shillington.
shillingtoneducation.com shillington_

Student work by Jade Peyton

Sydney • Melbourne • Brisbane

New York • London • Manchester 61
S EWI NG S CHOO L
64
LABEL LOVE woolerina
ONE MAN’S VISION FOR AN ETHICAL MERINO WOOL BRAND
HAS LED TO A THRIVING, FAMILY-RUN BUSINESS THAT HIS
DAUGHTER, PIPPA MCCONNELL, IS PROUD TO REPRESENT.
photos COURTESY OF WOOLERINA
..........
How did Woolerina come to be?
The company was started in 2005 by my dad, Warwick Rolfe, as a
result of his long-held dream of taking beautiful Australian merino
wool from the sheep’s back right through to a finished fashion gar-
ment. He has almost 40 years’ experience in the Australian wool
industry and is extremely passionate about the merino fibre! The
range started with four styles and has now grown to over 45 pieces
for women, men, kids and babies.
Describe your workspace...
Our office and manufacturing space is an old fruit-packing shed
that we’ve renovated, located on my parents’ property just outside
Forbes in New South Wales. There’s a beautiful outlook over the
property, and a raw cement floor that could tell a story or two! We
have a shopfront here as well as our warehouse, offices and our pro-
duction space – a sewing room and a cutting room. Shoppers love
being able to check out the space and see the production process.
How do you source your wool?
We hand-select the raw merino fibre using a very specific set of
criteria – the fibre we use comes from unmulesed sheep that grow
on natural pasture with much love and care from their farmers.
Hand-selecting the raw fibre is one of the most important parts of
our business; my dad’s passion for the fibre means he’s very choosy
with the raw wool.
What ethical practices underpin your business?
We’re proud to have been accredited with Ethical Clothing Australia
since 2013. The accreditation proves our commitment to ensuring
that all workers involved in our garment production receive fair
wages and work in decent conditions. It’s important to us that
waste is kept to a minimum, and any offcuts are utilised as much as
possible – sometimes our processes take a little longer as we work
to use as much of our fabric as possible.
In regard to the merino fibre we use, the care taken by farmers in rais-
ing their sheep is incredibly important in this process, and we only
select wool from sheep that’ve had minimal chemical intervention.
Merino wool is a renewable fibre, as sheep need nothing but natural
grassland, water and fresh air to grow their annual fleece – they hit
the shearing shed once a year and then head back out to do it all
again! Being able to make our clothing from something that not only
feels amazing to wear but is natural, renewable and biodegradable is
so important to us and an absolute privilege.
Tell us about the process of creating your clothing...
We source our fibre from local wool growers and then the raw wool
is shipped overseas as, unfortunately, there are no processing plants
left in Australia that can spin the fine counts of yarn we need to make
our fabrics. The merino wool is then returned to Australia as yarn
on cones ready for knitting; the knitting and dyeing takes place in
Melbourne before the beautiful rolls of fabric are returned to us. All
design and patternmaking is done at Forbes, along with all our cut-
ting and a great deal of our sewing – although some is outsourced to
an ECA-accredited factory in Sydney.
What do you love about what you do?
I love that I get to work with my family every day and we get to share
the warmth of Woolerina with so many lovely people. So many of our
customers have become friends of Woolerina through their contin-
ued support – it’s wonderful to hear their friendly voices on the end
of the phone or to see them at the events we attend.

65
 E NVI R O NMI NT

salt of the earth

WHAT’S IN A NAME? HIMALAYAN ROCK SALT HAS BECOME A PANTRY STAPLE
IN MANY KITCHENS – BUT FEW OF ITS DEVOTEES KNOW THESE PINK GRANULES
ARE ACTUALLY MINED MORE THAN 300 KILOMETRES AWAY FROM THE HIMALAYAS
USING HARMFUL PRACTICES. SO, WHAT ELSE SHOULD WE KNOW ABOUT THIS
COMMON HOUSEHOLD INGREDIENT?
words SONYA GELLERT
..........

66
 “
It doesn’t make
sense to me to use
salt that’s travelled
11,000 miles from its
”
source to my kitchen
Lauded by epicureans for its subtle taste-enhancing properties, and
by health and wellbeing enthusiasts for its proposed health benefits
– often being celebrated for its levels of magnesium, calcium, iron,
potassium and iodine – Himalayan rock salt has become a must-have
item in homes and restaurants across the western world. Not only is
this go-to ingredient a popular seasoning in culinary creations, but
it has also been turned into salt lamps, inhalers, sprays and various
beauty products.
But, beginning with a name that’s geographically inaccurate, accom-
panied by a number of concerns surrounding the practices used to
source the salt, is Himalayan rock salt simply the cleverly marketed
by-product of a dishonest industry?
Much of the pink salt available to Australian shoppers on our super-
market shelves is actually mined in Khewra, Pakistan. And although
its mountain ranges do extend into Pakistan, Khewra is approximately
300 kilometres outside of the Himalayas. For many, the use of the
destination’s name likely conjures images of pristine snow-capped
mountains and fresh air – naturally, an attractive conceptual asso-
ciation for any health or pantry item. Some product labels proudly
display the Himalayan mountain ranges in their designs. Yet, the
debate over whether or not the use of the Himalayas’ name is really
a suitable description for this product is trivial when compared with
other concerns associated with the salt.
Suspicions about the treatment of the local Pakistani people who
mine this sought-after salt have been arising for some time now.
Unsurprisingly, claims about the workplace safety standards
adhered to and conditions endured by these labourers have come
under investigation in recent years. And, in 2016, British daily news-
paper The Times confirmed some consumers’ uncertainties when it
reported the miners of Khewra, while deep underground, use hand
drills to manually extract the pink rock salt and withstand danger-
ously high temperatures for long hours at a time. For this labori-
ous day’s work, these Pakistani miners earn around AU$17 a day.
Sadly, not all workers survive these hazardous conditions. Labourer
Muhumman Iqbal told The Times, “We regularly witness deaths, and
we are paid very little.”
If poor working conditions are not enough to deter gourmets from
purchasing Himalayan rock salt, the environmental detriments may
be. Not only is the salt in this region a non-renewable resource, but
little care is taken to preserve the integrity of the land it’s exhumed
from. Once unearthed, the salt then travels incredibly long distances
KHEWRA SALT MINE INTERIOR, CHAKWAL, PUNJAB, PAKISTAN: SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
to reach Antipodean homes. Environmental engineer, eco-living
educator and sustainability blogger Laura Trotter says the ever-
increasing demand for this product is not without environmental
impact. “Himalayan rock salt is mined using conventional mining
methods to extract a non-renewable resource. Associated environ-
mental impacts include land disturbance and greenhouse gases.
The salt then travels thousands of miles to reach the dinner plates of
wealthy foodies in the US, Europe and Australia – again, generating
greenhouse gases during the transportation process. It doesn’t make
sense to me to use salt that’s travelled 11,000 miles from its source
to my kitchen, especially when there are so many great local varieties
available,” she explains.
Potentially owing to its association with the picture-perfect snow-
capped mountains and clean air of the Himalayas, a common mis-
conception around Himalayan rock salt, Laura suggests, is that it is
the cleanest, purest and healthiest salt on the market, and is there-
fore sustainable too. “Sure there are some noteworthy health ben-
efits of Himalayan rock salt, primarily associated with the trace min-
erals it contains. However, due to questions around mining methods
for the salt and the high food miles it travels to reach the booming
markets in the western world, it can’t be given a clean bill of health
for sustainability,” she says.
As a long-time conscious consumer and advocate for eco living,
Laura was an early investigator into the less-than-kind practices
surrounding the rock salt’s production. Having discovered the unfa-
vourable side of the story behind the product, she made the decision
to stop purchasing Himalayan rock salt and to inform others on the
matter. “I like to run an eco kitchen, using primarily locally sourced
ingredients, and Himalayan rock salt fails my criteria on food miles
alone. I also try, wherever possible, to purchase pantry staples from
brands that are required to adhere to strict workplace health and
safety and child labour laws. Australian workplace laws are among
the strictest in the world, so when I buy Australian, I know I’m not
supporting child labour or unsafe production practices,” Laura says.
Fortunately for those who wish to stop contributing to the demand
for this salt, there are sustainably sourced options widely avail-
able across Australia. These include Victoria’s Murray River Salt – a
company that has worked closely with government environmental
authorities to access brine from the Mourquong Salt Mitigation Basin
without impacting the local ecosystem.
Jan Thomson, who has owned and operated the business alongside
67
 MURRAY RIVER SALT
her husband Duncan Thomson since the early 1980s, says, “Large
regions of the Murray Darling Basin contain a limitless supply of
brine, which is the reason our company can produce salt in a sus-
tainable manner. Murray River Salt is the first company in Australia to
utilise the underground saline aquifer of the Murray Darling Basin to
produce salt. This saline aquifer is a remnant from when this entire
region was an inland sea. As a result of geological changes, the brine
has been trapped for thousands of years – and remains completely
free from any form of contamination. These brines contain naturally
occurring minerals such as magnesium, calcium, potassium and a
very small amount of iodine.”
The ancient brine is then pumped into crystalliser ponds, where the
sun gradually evaporates much of the water, leaving the concen-
trated brine behind to be made into salt flakes. The pinkish colour
emerges during this stage, owing to its naturally occurring minerals.
In addition to its sustainable sourcing process, the salt the family
business produces is solving a local environmental problem. “We
operate at a salt mitigation site that’s assisting in stopping 200
tonnes of salt per day from entering the Murray River downstream
from Mildura,” Jan explains.
Jan questions the need to import salt into the country when high-
quality salt – teamed with a salinity problem that is actually solved
by collecting this salt – exists in Australia. When asked if Murray River
Salt is on par with Himalayan rock salt in terms of its touted health
benefits, her answer is a resounding yes. “Murray River Salt is tested
annually for heavy metals. We are aware that there are imported salts
68
that advertise large amounts of minerals present, but, when you look
at the analysis of some of these minerals, they’re heavy metals. Some
people believe that all 80 minerals advertised [on imported rock
salts] are beneficial – however, some of these minerals are undesir-
able. We wouldn’t want our product to contain these minerals. All
Murray River Salt products are produced under strict HACCP [hazard
analysis and critical control points] conditions and offer traceability.
And we do not allow repackaging, as is the case with many other salts
coming in from overseas.”
Of course, in a country surrounded by ocean, locally sourced sea
salts can also present a good alternative to Himalayan rock salt.
Many salt plants are now working, with respect given to the natu-
ral environment, to create salt and salt products that are ethically
sourced. Among other companies sourcing responsibly in Australia
are Olsson’s Sea Salt, The Australian Flake Salt Company, Mount
Zero, Tasman Sea Salt, Pyramid Salt and Pukara Estate.
Laura says that when it comes to choosing the most ethical, sustain-
able and healthy salt, we needn’t look further than our own back-
yard: “Because there are so many local, sustainable salt options in
Australia – from local evaporated sea salts sourced from our pure
waters, to the ancient mineral salts from the Murray Darling Basin,
which help to combat the big environmental issue of inland salinity –
Australians are spoilt for choice.”

 







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Receive 15% off all our Naked Beauty Bar products online with code NAKED15 (Valid until 31 May 2018)
 “ Every day we’re
navigating
Australia’s complex
race relations and
dealing with a
country deeply
affected by both
its history and its

”
lack of historical
acceptance

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: RECONCILIATION AUSTRALIA ANIMATION; INTERVIEWING FOR

HEADSPACE, ALICE SPRINGS; AMANDA’S BUSINESS CARD ARTWORK: MINORITY IN MAJORITY BY
DAVID WILLIAMS; INTERVIEWING UNCLE ROY GIBSON AT MOSSMAN GORGE; TEAM GILIMBAA

70
CHANGEMAKER gilimbaa
AMANDA LEAR IS CO-FOUNDER AND MANAGING
DIRECTOR OF GILIMBAA – A BRISBANE-BASED
CREATIVE AGENCY THAT USES STORYTELLING
TO BRING ABOUT SOCIAL CHANGE.

photos COURTESY OF GILIMBAA

.......

How did Gilimbaa get started?

We’re on the eve of our tenth birthday, and looking back on our journey still
brings a smile to my face. Long before the national focus on Indigenous business
growth, myself and two workmates saw a need to bring Aboriginal and Torres Strait
Islander culture and perspectives, issues and priorities into a mainstream, high-
end creative agency.

Tell us about your work...

We create work that helps our nation find common ground. We work with
Indigenous communities, businesses and organisations that need to produce
creative messaging, as well as non-Indigenous companies looking to either connect
with Indigenous communities or simply incorporate and honour Indigenous culture
within their work. We’ve partnered with everyone from Lendlease and the UN to
Reconciliation Australia, Qantas and Headspace – we even created the logo for G20.
Every day we’re navigating Australia’s complex race relations and dealing with a
country deeply affected by both its history and its lack of historical acceptance. We
sit right in the middle of this space, and work to bring these polarising experiences
together to help shape the next chapter.

What methods do you use to tell stories?

From the outset, our team’s included Indigenous artists because we knew we
needed to use traditional and culturally appropriate methods of storytelling in
our work. Gilimbaa co-founder and director, David Williams, is a proud Wakka
Wakka man who’s one of the world’s most prominent didgeridoo players, and he
uses that skill to further communicate Indigenous culture. He’s played everywhere
from the Great Wall of China and Westminster Abbey to the opening ceremony of
the Beijing Olympic Games!
Our artwork process has become a key pillar of our offering – we work with clients
to help form a narrative that’s turned into a bespoke contemporary artwork by one
of our incredible Indigenous artists. Our senior designer and artist, Jenna Lee, is a
proud Larrakia woman whose artwork was used on the 2018 Commonwealth Games
Reconciliation Action Plan, and also incorporated into the Australian team uniforms.
It was a very proud moment!

What do you love about what you do?

Gilimbaa means ‘today’ in the language of the Wakka Wakka people of Central
Queensland, and today as a nation we’re in a very different place to where we were a
decade ago. Over the last 10 years, Gilimbaa has both led and followed an incredible
journey of respect and relationships, which still continues. It makes me so proud to
turn up to work every day and be inspired by an incredible group of Indigenous and
non-Indigenous teammates, coming together to help play our small part in tackling
some of the nation’s most critical issues, and working to amplify the voices and
culture of our First Peoples.

71
32
 ME E T THE MA KE R
denim of the day
WITH TAFFETA AND DIAMANTES VYING FOR ATTENTION ON BRUNSWICK’S BRIDAL
STRIP, IT’S EASY TO MISS THE HUMBLE SHOPFRONT OF DEJOUR JEANS. COME
OPENING TIME, HOWEVER, THE LINE OF EAGER CUSTOMERS OUT FRONT SHOWS
THAT DEJOUR IS NO LONGER MELBOURNE’S BEST KEPT SECRET.
words SAMANTHA ALLEMANN images LINSEY RENDELL
..........
Jeans shopping can be hive-inducing enough without the added
stress of a high price tag for the privilege. Yet opting to buy a cheap
pair usually results in denim shopping déjà vu after they fall apart
– not to mention more textiles ending up in landfill. But at Sydney
Road’s Dejour Jeans, things are different. Dejour has earned a cult
status with hip Melbourne locals and fans further afield by selling
stylish, low-cost, high-quality jeans with a lifetime guarantee. And
unusually for the predominantly off-the-shelf era we live in, they’re
also individually tailored in-store to suit each customer’s unique
body shape, resulting in the holy grail of denim: jeans that actually fit.
The family-owned business, surrounded by a cluster of bridal stores
and shisha cafes, has been a fixture on Sydney Road since 1989. Viet-
namese owner Nam Huynh, who took up the family trade of tailor-
ing aged 13 back in Ho Chi Minh City, met his Vietnamese-born wife
Madeline in Australia. Madeline was taught to sew by Nam, who had
left a factory job making jeans for a major retailer in order to set up
his own shop.
Dejour’s first ever foray into denim was a pair of basic black jeans.
“Most of the time the weather is cold here in Melbourne, so jeans
are the best thing to wear,” explains Madeline of the direction they
took with their brand. Over the almost 30-year period they’ve been
trading, their range has expanded considerably to include street-
style stalwarts such as skinny, slim, straight, flared, girlfriend and
boyfriend jeans and more. But you won’t find fancy embellishments
and detailing here; it’s their classic, minimalist look that Dejour are
known for. Nam and Madeline have had plenty of feedback from their
customers over the years, who know what they like. “People want to
wear simple jeans – something comfortable with good fabric that will
last and is a nice colour,” says Madeline. Every new style is designed
by Nam, who’s also in charge of whipping up the sample for each
offering because “he never trusts anyone else to do it”.
Inside the tiny store that’s positively piled high with denim, four sew-
ing stations are set up in the back room. The Juki machines whir with
activity as Madeline, Nam and two assistants work all day tailoring
jeans to fit their customers. These free alterations are offered on
every pair they sell, with the jeans being tweaked – waists cinched
in, hems lifted, buttons moved, fabric distressed – in order to suit
different body shapes and preferences. Incredibly, rather than being
a one-off service at the time of sale, Dejour Jeans offers these re-
alterations and repairs for the entire life of the fabric – so you can get
many years (or perhaps even decades) of wear out of a single pair.
“As bodies and lives change, you should still be comfortable in your
favourite jeans,” says shop assistant April Stroud.
April, who has worked on the shop floor at Dejour for two years,
estimates that while a small percentage of customers fit the off-the-
shelf jeans perfectly from the get-go, most will have them altered.
And in a bustling shop that’s often jam-packed with eager custom-
ers, this process has been honed to a fine art. “The girls mark up the
jeans and pass them to us, and then I’ve got one lady here to unpick
anything she thinks we need to do,” explains Madeline. “She’ll queue
everything along in bags, and then Nam and I will pick each bag.” It’s
generally first come first served, with most alterations being com-
pleted on the same day. However, if someone collects their altered
jeans and isn’t satisfied with them, on-the-spot mending is done so
73
“
We are a family business and
a small business, so we don’t
”
want to make it too fancy; we
only make what we can sell
they don’t have to travel back again. After all, not all of their custom-
ers are locals. “We have a lot of interstate and sometimes interna-
tional customers who’ve popped over and been told to come here,”
says April.
More women than men are likely to opt for alterations, April has
noticed. “A lot of chicks can’t find jeans that fit and are just really
excited to find something they’re comfortable in,” she says. “We want
to find the best fit for people.” The best fit can come from ignoring
the number on the size tag – because Dejour’s jeans are preshrunk,
their sizing tends to differ from other major brands, so April recom-
mends customers try on lots of different sizes. “It’s just a number; it
doesn’t change who you are,” she says.
74
Nam and Madeline used to produce every pair of jeans onsite, but
due to increased demand, they’re now made at Dejour’s factory,
which is conveniently located just up the road near Lygon Street. The
factory employs four permanent staff, with Nam stopping by regu-
larly to pick up stock and oversee production. Dejour uses Bradmill
denim, which until fairly recently was also locally made. “Our denim
is Australian owned but made in China, since almost no denim is
made here anymore, and local denim suppliers can’t keep up with
our quantities required,” April explains.
While an average day in the business back in the nineties would have
seen 10 or so sales, the word is now officially out, and Dejour is regu-
larly overrun with queuing customers winding around the snug store.
The two changing rooms at the front and four at the back are occu-
pied by people getting their pants expertly marked up with chalk by
a shop assistant, while floor-to-wall shelves at both sides of the store
are stacked high with jeans, jeans and more jeans (plus a few jackets,
shorts and skirts) in different hues of blue and black, as well as a few
colours such as red and green. Safe to say, if you’re determined to go
home with your own dream denim, it’s best to get there early.
During extremely busy periods, Dejour simply can’t contain all of
their shoppers inside their small premises – but expanding into a
larger building isn’t on the cards. “Especially in winter time when it’s
busy, the shop is very small for us, but to go to a bigger shop would
cost us a lot of money,” Madeline explains. “If we pay a lot of over-
heads, we can’t sell the jeans for this price.”
An average pair of Dejour jeans costs around $50, and Madeline and
Nam are adamant their prices should remain low so they don’t ostra-
cise any of their customers. “Some of our customers are students, so
we have to help them,” says Madeline. “We help them, they help us.”
This mutually beneficial arrangement has seen Dejour Jeans gain an
online presence, with Instagram and Facebook pages initially set up
by enthusiastic customers (and now looked after by Dejour’s staff).
Free adverts have also been run in the magazines and newspapers
their customers work for, and word of mouth has helped the busi-
ness grow. This informal arrangement has proved so successful that
Dejour has never had to spend money on advertising – another way
they’ve been able to keep their overheads low.
Thanks to these passionate advocates, visitors to Dejour usually
know what to expect before they walk in the door. “They have an
idea of what we do, as they’ve mostly been referred by friends,” says
April. Despite the wait times, the goal is to ensure each shopper
has a positive experience. “We try to keep everyone happy – and
because we’re a small business, everyone is supportive,” she adds.
Just as Dejour Jeans’ approach to design is uncomplicated, so is
their business ethos. “We are a family business and a small business,
so we don’t want to make it too fancy; we only make what we can
sell,” says Madeline. Their many satisfied customers are what make
the long hours Madeline and Nam spend at their sewing machines
well worth it. “They’ll smile and say thank you, and that makes us
happy,” she says. “It’s important that our customers are happy,
because that means they will come back and tell their friends and
family to come in. We do not make a big profit on selling each pair
of jeans, so with customers coming back and supporting us we can
keep the business going.”

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 STEP 1:


FIND YOUR BASE
Everyone has a base colour
they’re drawn to and one that
looks best on them – unfor-
tunately these aren’t always
the same! Sometimes the
SUSTAINABLE colour you’re attracted to
doesn’t suit your complexion,
STYLE ISN’T
or maybe it worked better in
JUST ABOUT the past. Reassess your base
RECYCLING, colour every five years or after
REPURPOSING major changes, such as a new
AND GIVING hair colour.
FAST FASHION Key base colours are black,
THE HEAVE-HO navy, chocolate, charcoal,
olive, white and a natural linen
– IT ALSO MEANS
tone. Lots of people have a
INVESTING IN
darker base tone for winter
PIECES YOU’LL and a lighter one for summer
LOVE FOR YEARS – find your base colour and
TO COME. TO run with it.
DO THAT, YOU To find your base colour, stand
NEED TO KNOW at a mirror with good light-
ing (natural light’s best) and
EXACTLY WHAT
compare a couple of base
WORKS FOR YOU
tones. Hold up your preferred
– AND THAT’S colour and see how your face
WHERE THE looks, then switch to the other
SUSTAINABLE colour. Does one tone make
your face look radiant? Does
STYLIST KIM the other make you look a bit
KNEIPP COMES
washed out? Your base colour
TO THE RESCUE... needs to make you glow!
76
STEP 2:
KNOW THY SHAPES
If you have a couple of go-to
garments that attract compli-
ments, put them on and stand
in front of the mirror, then
work out what makes them so
good. Forget what’s in fashion
or in the stores – your founda-
tion wardrobe’s about dress-
ing to suit your body shape
and your personality!
Ask yourself, is it the colour or
the cut that works? What’s the
neckline? What’s the length?
And what’s the fabric?
Find your favourite tops,
dresses, skirts, jackets and
pants – we’ll call these your
foundation pieces. Take a
photo of yourself in them and
file them away for when you go
shopping. Knowing the cuts to
look out for ensures you’ll only
spend money on things you’ll
feel wonderful in.
STEP 3:
REPEAT THE
WINNERS
When you find your winning
style, don’t be afraid to have
multiple versions – summer-
and winter-weight ones, and
plain and printed options.
Most designers repeat their
best cuts over a few seasons,
and you can collect new ver-
sions over time.
STEP 4:
SHOP YOUR
WARDROBE
This is where the fun starts!
Experiment with ways to inte-
grate years of purchases into
your newly identified founda-
tion wardrobe.
Put your five to 10 foundation
pieces to one side and take
turns trying different combina-
tions – how does your founda-
tion skirt look with t-shirts and
collared shirts? What shoes do
you then wear to complete the
look? Layer, accessorise and
experiment – put on music
that makes you happy, pour
some bubbles and play!
STEP 5:
ALTER , ALTER,
ALTER!
I cannot overemphasise the
importance of only wearing
what properly fits YOU – soft
tailoring makes all the differ-
ence. Nip it in at the waist.
Shorten the strap of a dress.
Make the hem shorter. Slim
in sleeves at the elbows and
make sure the shoulders
properly fit. Small alterations
will extend your wardrobe
tremendously.


STEP 6:





STEP 7:
MIX IT UP!
Packing away seasonal clothes
is a cost-free way to achieve a
new-wardrobe buzz. There’s
excitement in unpacking a
trove of forgotten winterwear
or pulling out beautiful printed
summer dresses as the days
warm up. When packing things
away, make sure you wash
them first, use air-tight con-
tainers and throw in a bar of
soap or some cedar balls to
ward off insects.
STEP 8:
STEP 9:
LOVE YOUR
OP-SHOP
Every week or so, drop into
a local op-shop. Pick one or
two op-shops so you become
familiar with their stock cycles,
and don’t go looking for a
particular garment. Be open-
minded and systematically
search through the racks, using
these inexpensive garments to
experiment with. If it doesn’t
integrate well, recycle it and
try again. Don’t be scared of
making mistakes!

 
 


 
ADD ACCESSORIES,
NOT CLOTHES
With a strong base ward-
robe you’ll rarely need to buy
new (or preloved) clothes –
instead, update your shoes,
hats, jewellery and belts to get
the most out of your wardrobe.
This is a low-cost way of look-
ing fresh while satiating the
desire to shop.
SELL & SWAP
Clothes swaps, secondhand
stores, markets, online swap-
and-sell forums – use them!
Don’t keep garments you
never wear – replace them
with pieces that suit who you
are now.
STEP 10:
INVEST IN
QUALITY PIECES
Each season, invest in one
piece that enhances your
foundation wardrobe. This will
ideally be in your base colour,
and not in a print or pattern
that will date or restrict your
wear. Save up for this seasonal
purchase and look after it.
Support Australian designers –
choose something that keeps
our industry alive while you’re
looking fabulous.
77
 GR E E N HO U S E

worn this way

WHETHER YOU’RE TALKING ABOUT WORN
STORE, THE COUPLE’S BANGALOW BOUTIQUE,
OR YÜGEN FARM, THE HOME THEY SHARE WITH
THEIR DAUGHTER, OPHELIA, IT’S CLEAR THAT
MINIMALISM, HONESTY AND AUTHENTICITY ARE
THREE WORDS LIA-BELLE KING AND LOTTE
JAMES BARNES LIVE BY.

words EMILY LUSH
photos BRITT SPRING

..........

78
Both 15-year veterans of the Australian fashion and design industry
– Lia-Belle as a publicist, Lotte as an art director – the couple first
met while working together at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week. “After
our project ended, something in the dynamic between us changed,”
Lia-Belle remembers. “All of a sudden, we went from being friends to
knowing with every essence of our being that we were each other’s
person.” A few months into the relationship, Lia-Belle was diagnosed
with severe endometriosis and had to undergo surgery. This prompted
both women to take a step back from their careers, and once Lia-Belle
had healed, they temporarily relocated to Bali, Indonesia.
“Travelling with one bag on your back brings into perspective what
you really need in order to survive,” Lia-Belle says of the journeys
they made through India and Sri Lanka at the time. “It taught us both
the essence of minimalism.” Inspired by their travels and Balinese
culture, they started dabbling in furniture design. The first piece they
created together, the Sling Chair, is a simple, robust object made
from beeswax-sealed teak and hand-stitched leather. It would go
on to become their signature piece and a best-seller at Worn Store,
which they started as an online boutique in 2015.
That same year, the couple made a brief trip back to Sydney and got
married in a civil ceremony. They began to contemplate adding a
third member to the family. “Lotte and I always knew we wanted to
have children together,” Lia-Belle recalls. Mindful of the difficulties
most same-sex couples face when trying to conceive, they started
researching different methods and ways they could better their
chances. “We wanted the process to be as natural as possible,” she
continues. “We wanted it to be done in our home, and without the
use of any hormonal supplements. When we returned to Bali, we had
dinner with our two closest friends. One of them, Tyler, offered us
the most incredible gift anyone can ever offer. In a way, he wanted to
be part of the love Lotte and I share, and help bring a child into our
world. We accepted most graciously – and tearfully – and we started
the process soon after.”
Lia-Belle modified her diet, practised meditation and yoga regularly
and starting visiting an acupuncturist. “I used an app to track my
ovulation cycles so we would know the optimum dates for at-home
insemination,” she explains. At the same time they were trying to fall
pregnant, the couple was facing another big decision: where the next
chapter of their life together would unfold. “Lotte and I had to choose
where we wanted to live – where would be the best environment to
nurture our baby and the best place for us to grow our business. We
decided to move back home to Australia.”
“All plans were in place to relocate,” Lia-Belle continues, “but we
hadn’t yet fallen [pregnant]. It seemed we were moving home to
start a family, without a family. I went for my last acupuncture session
four days before we flew to Sydney and my practitioner told me I was
pregnant. I couldn’t believe it. I did a pregnancy test every day for
the next four days, but they were all negative. It was a strange place
to be in. We agreed that we would still move back to focus on Worn
Store and return to Bali to try again in the future. But the morning we
landed in Sydney, I did a pregnancy test in the airport bathroom and
it was positive. We were having our baby.”

79
Foregoing their native Sydney, the couple instead decided to settle in
Clunes, a small town halfway between Byron Bay and Lismore in New
South Wales’s Northern Rivers hinterland. “It was actually the first
and only house we looked at,” Lia-Belle says of the converted turn-
of-the-century schoolhouse the couple chose as their new home.
A short drive away in Bangalow, they opened the first bricks-and-
mortar storefront for Worn Store, stocking their original furniture
designs alongside antiques, capsule clothing collections and other
lifestyle products.
The couple christened their new home and the 22-acre property it
sits on Yügen Farm – a Japanese phrase meaning “an awareness of
the universe that triggers emotional responses too deep and power-
ful for words. Lotte and I have always referred to the space our rela-
tionship inhabits as ‘Yügen’, and so it made sense to name the farm
just that.”
Yügen’s hardwood floors, whitewashed vjs and picture windows that
look out onto a rambling stream in the backyard reminded Lia-Belle of
the house she grew up in. She thought it would be the perfect place to
raise their daughter. “Our home is rented, so there are limits to what
we can change. We were lucky to begin with a beautiful canvas,” she
says. “We started with some basic rules of colour and materials to
ensure everything ties together peacefully. Working with a warm, neu-
tral palette, we gradually added pieces of furniture and objects. Each
month, our home evolves a little more.”
“First and foremost, it had to be calm,” Lia-Belle continues. “We
wanted an open space that encourages slowness and quiet. We
approach buying items in a very considered, almost sentimental way
– everything must have a long-term purpose, be as environmentally
friendly as possible, be something we absolutely need and be spe-
cial. Nothing we have in our home is frivolous or purely for adorn-
ment.” Sparsely furnished with leather, wood and natural fibres,
Yügen features mid-century and art-deco furnishings. “There are of
course a few of our own Worn Store pieces – although not as many as
you might expect,” Lia-Belle adds.
One item that definitely features in their home is the Sling Chair –
that piece of furniture that set Lia-Belle and Lotte on their course
to founding Worn Store. Designed when the couple were still living
in Indonesia, the Sling Chair and subsequent designs allow them
to sustain a connection with the community there through ongoing
partnerships with Balinese artisans.
“Living in a developing country taught us the importance of sup-
porting communities by working with small, local businesses,” Lia-
Belle explains. All made to order in Indonesia, the couple’s furniture
designs favour natural materials, such as cane and rattan. Small
collections of resort wear and accessories also feature natural fibres
and dyes derived from plants. The decision to work with small-scale
artisans and avoid harmful dyes and wood treatments is part of the
couple’s broader vision for a healthy, harmonious home. The impor-
tance placed on the objects we choose to surround ourselves with
has undoubtedly been informed by Lia-Belle’s recent studies in psy-
chology and Lotte’s training in Vedic Meditation.
80
“We both believe that every item in your home absorbs the energy
that is fed into it,” Lia-Belle explains. “From how the person who
made the chair felt and what energy was put into it by the maker,
to the place and way in which it was sold. Each step along the way
adds to the energetic aura of the item, right up to the point when it
arrives in your home. Then it continues to grow with the emotions
you feed into it.”
“If you surround yourself with objects that are made and sold with
integrity, and you look at them and feel love and appreciation, they
absorb that energy and reflect it back into your home,” she contin-
ues. “We surround ourselves with objects of true beauty that help to
lighten our mood on a daily basis.” At home at Yügen, this includes
the simplest of things, such as a gold-leaf ceramic bowl that was
gifted to Lia-Belle during her pregnancy. “That bowl is, and will most
likely always be, my most treasured item,” she says. “The love and joy
infused into that bowl is enough to light up our entire home.”
The “quiet time and meditative rituals” Yügen permits help the cou-
ple to communicate authentically and better handle the stress that
comes with running their own business. Maintaining a calm home
environment became more important than ever when baby Ophelia
arrived in April 2017.
Paired with the recent progress made around same-sex marriage in
Australia, the birth of their daughter has given the couple pause to
reflect on the meaning of family. “First we were married in a non-legally
binding ceremony,” Lia-Belle explains, “and we will be married again
– this time with the legal documents signed. To us, the documents
mean less than the weight of knowing that so many people in Australia
want us to be supported, included and acknowledged.” While they
recognise there is still work to be done around legal rights and adop-
tion, the recent change to the law is something Lia-Belle and Lotte
are proud to have played their part in. “We used our voice wherever
and whenever possible. Ophelia attended her first equality rally at six
months old. We hope she grows up not having to fight for freedom or
acceptance or fairness, but that she certainly won’t be afraid to.”
For this family, the legalisation of same-sex marriage is an acknowl-
edgement of something they’ve always known. Just as a chair takes
shape from the most basic elements, infused with love at every
stage – just as a house gradually becomes a home, absorbing and
reflecting energy with each object added – family is something that is
assembled over time, not ready-made and never formulaic. “Family
can be chosen and created as a group or even just a duo,” Lia-Belle
says. “Family is a reflection and extension of yourself. Your children
love the way they were loved. You learn to see the world the way
your child sees the world. Each member of a family grows and learns
and is connected to each other from the moment they wake to the
moment they sleep. Family is the people around you who love you in
the purest, most unshakable way.”

“
We both believe
that every item in
your home absorbs

”
the energy that is
fed into it

81
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83
 MA KE I T YOU R S E LF





Leaves, bark, flowers, fruit and roots – this is how most textiles
were coloured before the Industrial Revolution, and the age-old
craft of natural dyeing still exists in many communities all over the
world. Try it yourself to discover all the bright and brilliant colours
you can achieve with flora from your own backyard and kitchen!
words SAMORN SANIXAY images LORNA SIM PHOTOGRAPHY

84
BUNDLE AND STEAM
This technique is an easy introduction to bundle dyeing. It is
suitable for scarves, clothing and decorative items. Colours
obtained from flowers may fade, but that’s part of the beauty!

MATERIALS
One piece of fabric. Fibres that contain protein, such as silk
and wool, absorb colour best. (You can test with any other
natural fibre, but ideally soak it in soy milk to prepare it first.)
Plant material of your choice. These could be soft leaves
and petals from around your garden, kitchen scraps such as
rotten berries, onion skin, avocado skin, pomegranate skin,
and any other raw plant-based bits and pieces.
White vinegar to soak fabric – this acts as a fixative and
helps release colour from dye source.
A metal rod or a can to wrap the fabric around.
A variety of rusty metal objects – nails, bottle tops,
etc. (optional).
Some strong twine to wrap the bundle.
A stovetop vegetable steamer.

INSTRUCTIONS
Fabric should be washed first. Then soak your fabric in a
bucket of a solution made from 3/4 water and 1/4 vinegar –
allow for at least 10 minutes in the solution, and then remove
and wring all excess liquid out of the fabric.

Lay your piece of fabric flat on the table. Scatter your desired
leaves, petals and kitchen scraps evenly along the fabric.
Optional: add a selection of the rusty metal objects to add an
interesting pattern to the fabric, and also to act as a mordant
(a substance that helps set dye).

Roll the fabric tightly around the metal rod or can (which
also acts as a mordant) to create a bundle. Wrap the twine
firmly around your bundle to hold it all together.

Place the bundle in the steamer and gently steam for 20–30
minutes. For best results, the bundle should be left over-
night before opening.

Unravel, shake off the scraps in the garden and delight in

the beauty of the colours and patterns from the plants and
scraps. Allow the fabric to dry and then leave for several
days before giving it a gentle cold hand wash and cool iron
to seal the colours.

85
  
 

  







 




86
87
FLOWER POUNDING
This technique is best suited for thick cotton or linen fabrics
(if the fabric is too thin or sheer it will cause the dye to bleed
or stain). It’s best to use darker coloured leaves and flowers
with a strong pigment, such as red roses. Flower pounding
works best for decorative items such as cushion covers or
bags that don’t require frequent washing. Some colours
of the flowers may fade, but many leaves will retain their
colours. Different plants grow in different climates – test
your local flora to see which ones work best for you!

MATERIALS
Two pieces of washed cotton or linen fabric (or one piece
plus a piece of paper).
Medium size mallet or hammer.
Large wooden board/cardboard placed underneath fabric.
Flowers such as rose petals, dahlia, geranium, marigold,
snapdragon and poppy. Before starting, tear flower petals
with your fingers to check if the colour stains – if not,
there will be no dye.
Leaves such as rose leaves, tomato leaves, sage,
maple and ferns.

INSTRUCTIONS
Place the fabric onto the wooden board, and then add the
leaves and petals on top. Cover the fabric with your other
piece of fabric (or the paper) so that when you pound the
leaves it will protect your work.

Pound each flower and leaf under the fabric or paper to

reveal the print. Keep going until you have achieved the
desired look. If you have used two pieces of fabric, you will
have the same print on each.

Leave to dry for at least 24 hours. Shake to remove dried pet-

als, and then iron to seal the colour.

88
89
 COUNTER CULTURE
native home, house of plants
EWAN HARDING’S MELBOURNE-BASED
NURSERY STOCKS NATIVE PLANTS AND ART
photos LINSEY RENDELL

..........

Tell us about your space...

It’s a native plant nursery, cafe, art gallery and event space. I saw the need for a
place that helped educate people about the importance of our native plants so they
could incorporate them into their own lives, gardens and homes.

What’s your background?

After high school, I had the chance to undertake a landscaping apprenticeship in
my hometown of Wagga Wagga. The apprenticeship was based around the study
of horticulture and over the years my interest in plants grew and grew. My strong
connection to nature and this country has never left me, and this has guided me
back to working with plants again.

“
Why do you encourage people to choose natives over introduced species?
The way to heal ourselves is through giving back to country. The introduction of for-
eign species is not giving back – it’s not what this land needs. She needs to be healed,
and we can do that by giving her what she wants. There is no reason to look beyond
There is no the native plants we have here – our country is magnificent, unique and powerful.
You don’t have to look far to feel how amazing this place is, so why would you choose
reason to look anything different?

You built the venue yourself – what was the process like?
beyond the It was a gruelling seven months of construction – I have never pushed myself as
hard, physically or mentally, as I had to with this project. I chose to use unsea-
native plants soned, rough-sawn ironbark for all timber on the roof structure, and then up-
cycled the old boundary fence palings and used them for cladding on the toilet

we have here - block. The majority of other materials were either factory seconds or from recycled
timber yards here in Melbourne.

our country is What kinds of sustainability initiatives have you implemented?

We only produce three to four kilograms of waste a week, which equates to half a
magnificent, domestic bin full of waste. The rest is recycled. We have just started bagging all our
coffee grinds and have them available to customers to take home for their gardens.

unique and

”
How else do you utilise the space?
The venue has been home to some very special micro events. It was opened offi-
powerful cially by some friends of mine who led us through an acknowledgement ceremony
dance and song. We also have a gallery that houses works from emerging Indig-
enous and non-Indigenous artists, which provides opportunity to many different
talented artists from all over the country. Additionally, we make the space available
for intimate events such as guest speakers, workshops and small music nights.

What’s been your favourite moment so far?

Opening the doors for the first time was a moment of happiness and satisfaction
– I was finally at the point I’d been working towards for the past nine months. It
was a massive relief to get to this stage for so many reasons, and to see how the
community interacted with the space was amazing. Native Home, House of Plants
is a second home for me and for many other people. That’s the way I like it; that’s
why it’s here.

VISIT 366 JOHNSTON STREET, ABBOTSFORD VIC 3068

91
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 WOOLERINA
Woolerina’s soft Australian merino clothing begins life in
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SLOW THREADS
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95
 GR E E NE R PA STU R ES

a family affair
THIS FAMILY OF SELF-PROCLAIMED ‘NEOPEASANTS’ HAS
CONSTRUCTED AN OFF-GRID HOUSE AND PERMACUL-
TURE GARDEN IN DAYLESFORD ON DJA DJA WURRUNG
COUNTRY, WHERE THEY LIVE HAPPILY – AND WITH GREAT
ABUNDANCE – BELOW THE NATIONAL POVERTY LINE.
words and photos LINSEY RENDELL

..........

96
Patrick Jones and Meg Ulman slowly and lovingly turned their dusty,
lifeless parcel of land into a verdant plot lush with fruit, vegetables,
chickens, ducks, bees and off-grid dwellings they built by hand. It’s
here they are raising sons Zephyr (15) and Woody (5) and working
as a family to be resilient, knowledgeable and community-oriented
environmentalists.
Calling themselves ‘Artist as Family’, they are philosophers, poets,
artists, farmers, musicians, fermentation wizards, chemists, activ-
ists and, most importantly, a family, whose sum is far greater than
its parts. They live off the land in sustainably built and run hous-
ing, regenerating the soil beneath their feet and slowly attempting
to remove themselves from the debt cycle of the modern economy
and the damages of our disposable society. “It’s a model, albeit small
scale, for living with far less money and in greater connection with
the earth and its multifarious communities – human and much more
than human,” Patrick explains.
What they don’t grow, they forage and hunt, buy locally or trade with
their small, close-knit community. Just a 15-minute walk down the
hill is Daylesford Lake, where they swim, fish and collect mineral
water from the natural springs that run through the Daylesford and
Hepburn region. “David Holmgren, the co-founder of the permacul-
ture movement, speaks about permaculture as ‘old common sense
that’s no longer common’,” Meg says. “For us, slowly becoming more
and more in touch with what is essential in life – that is, what feeds
and nourishes us and the communities of life that make more life
possible – is what we’ve come to see as true wealth.”
In 2009, Meg and Patrick’s concern about the Great Pacific garbage
patch and society’s increasingly throwaway mentality spurred Pat-
rick to propose a ‘family residency’, where they would spend 17 days
collecting discarded packaging along the beaches of Newcastle in
New South Wales. “The work itself was a durational treasure hunt
and our first performance as a collective. We hauled bag after bag of
plastic waste and aluminium cans into the cultural centre that was
hosting us as part of the This Is Not Art festival,” Patrick recalls.
Then in 2013, ready for another adventure, they embarked on a more
challenging family ‘performance’ – cycling up the east coast of Aus-
tralia for 400 days, from Daylesford to Cape York and back, in a rule-
breaking year of ethical living. The aim was to live as cheaply as pos-
sible by guerrilla camping, catching fish (and green ants), salvaging
fresh roadkill, foraging wild plants and engaging with local communi-
ties – including learning about bush tucker from Aboriginal elders.

97
They returned home to Daylesford to their ever-evolving and
increasingly sustainable permaculture plot – which they named
Tree Elbow after Meg and Patrick’s own word for ‘love’. “We wanted
a term to express the intensity of our feelings for each other, so one
night while camped out at Lalgambook, a sacred volcano crater, we
agreed to close our eyes, take a deep breath, and each say the first
word that came to us,” Meg says. “We can’t remember who said
which word – it really doesn’t matter. What matters is we gener-
ated a term out of our subconsciouses and that special place. While
it makes no etymological sense, it has loads of emotional sense as
it tracks the root of our shared, well, tree elbow, for one another.
It’s something we might whisper before a kiss or while we’re facing
something really heavy in our lives.”
At Tree Elbow, they “perform life largely unshackled by ‘hypertechno-
civility’ – Patrick’s word for digi-industrial modernity,” Meg explained.
The primary dwelling is north-facing for solar access (for “free natural
light and warmth”), and the block is dotted with three other small
dwellings that Patrick, Zeph and others built by hand from recycled
materials. Two shacks are for SWAPs (Social Warming Artists and Per-
maculturists – travellers and visitors keen to learn how to live a simple
off-grid existence), and they rent out the last tiny house on Airbnb,
which supports their mortgage repayments. There are often many
people staying on the property, and that’s how they prefer it – brim-
ming with diverse knowledge, skills, laughter and generosity.
Meg and Patrick are scrupulous with water usage, relying solely on
captured rainwater, while their 1Kw solar system provides all the
power they need. They’ve recently disconnected the gas to cook with
fire atop their indoor wood heater or in their outdoor bush kitchen –
both of which they stoke with fallen firewood collected on pushbikes.
The by-products of this wood-fired energy are also put to use. Wood
ash feeds the garden and keeps unwanted slugs at bay among
the fruit trees, while sifted charcoal ends up in the family’s newly
installed composting toilets. Each is made from smooth marine ply
with two holes cut in the top – one leading to a bucket of charcoal
for urine and the other for faeces, which they sprinkle with sawdust
from a local mill (separating the two helps avoid any odours typical
of a regular drop-hole). The result is slowly and thoroughly com-
posted into ‘humanure’ that eventually enriches their garden plots.
Each of the three composting toilets cost less than $100 to build,
and will save more than 60,000 litres of water per year.
“We’ve also been slowly reducing our need for white goods. Our fridge
is probably our biggest energy user and one of the last white goods to
go. But like everything we do, it’s a gradual step-by-step process to
reduce our dependency on polluting technologies,” Meg says. They’ve
started building an undercroft where Meg stores her preserves and
Patrick his home brews – including a delectable beer made from their
own acorns, homegrown hops and honey from their bees.
Patrick predominantly looks after the garden, while Meg’s domain is
the kitchen. It’s in here that all manner of fermenting and preserving
is conducted. “I have about a dozen or more brews bubbling away at
any time – various krauts, lacto-pickles, milk kefir, mead, plum wines
and root beers. I wild-ferment everything, including our yoghurt and
cheeses, which are both made from raw milk,” Meg says.
98
Rather than the traditional term ‘homesteading’, she prefers to use
‘community-steading’ – just like the family speak of ‘community-suf-
ficiency’ rather than ‘self-sufficiency’. “The latter seems to suggest a
closing of doors, of possibilities, of relationships,” Meg explains. They
believe that rather than trying to grow and make everything them-
selves, it’s a far more positive and engaging experience to share and
trade with the local community. “We grow as much fruit and veg as
we can, and we share and barter that food with friends. We also buy
produce from our local food co-op, small local organic farms and
from a family-owned grocer in town,” she says.  
Among their food forest, they grow both annual and perennial crops
and medicinal plants. Fruit trees such as apples, quince, medlar,
persimmon, pear, loquats, plums, peaches, cherries and nectar-
ines dot the property, while kiwi, passionfruit and grape vines climb
the rims of the house. Annual beds for the likes of garlic, potatoes,
tomatoes, beans and cucumbers grow on mounded rows with swales
in-between to passively harvest rainwater. “Edible Indigenous food
plants such as banksias, lomandra, kangaroo apple and chocolate
lily also grow in the garden, and are significant parts of this food ecol-
ogy,” Patrick says. They also forage wild roots and weeds like bur-
dock, berries, fat hen and mushrooms. “We eat very little meat. We
snare occasional rabbits in the winter and feral redfin and trout in
the summer from the local lakes and creeks, harvest roadkill when
it’s safe, kill our own poultry and happily accept wild deer from local
hunters in a barter for our kraut. As locavores, it’s more important
knowing where our food comes from,” he adds.
The Dja Dja Wurrung people are the traditional custodians of the
land on which they live and toil, and the family adheres to their six
seasons, which more accurately describe the environmental changes
that occur throughout the year. “The lives of our peasant and Indig-
enous ancestors, those who observed the delicate or radical trans-
formations of the land as contiguous with their own, are what we
hold dear,” Patrick says.
For Artist as Family, life is their practice, and they share their acquired
knowledge via books, garden tours and workshops. Patrick is a co-
founder and volunteer facilitator of the community food gardens in
Daylesford, while Meg founded Culture Club to run free workshops
on all things fermentation. Patrick also voluntarily runs a bush school
for young children called Make and Play, where he educates on bush
foods, skills and local ecology. “The many Aboriginal communities in
Australia developed intimate knowledges with the earth, which their
economy and culture was built upon. We believe this is the economic
model for future cultures in Australia,” he says.
It’s this valuable Indigenous and peasant ancestor knowledge that
Patrick and Meg draw on in the hope of making common sense and
radical frugality common again. “We have arrived at permacul-
tural neopeasantry as a pragmatic response to the predicaments
of our time,” Patrick says. “For the challenging times that lie ahead
because of how sapiens have been treating the planet, we wish to
prepare ourselves, our children and others wanting to enact greater
resilience, communitarianism and frugality.”

“
THE MANY
ABORIGINAL
COMMUNITIES
IN AUSTRALIA
DEVELOPED
INTIMATE
KNOWLEDGES WITH
THE EARTH, WHICH
THEIR ECONOMY
AND CULTURE WAS
BUILT UPON.
99
 VI L L AG E G R E E N



A surprisingly peaceful patch of the Sunshine Coast, Peregian
Beach on the Noosa border has a relaxed, village vibe with
a stunning beach and stores stocked with quirky, covetable
goods. Pop to Peregian for surf, sand, first-class food... and
more sustainable linen than you can poke a credit card at.
words and images KELLEY SHEENAN
100
 

CLOTH & HIDE
Linen aficionados will be in textile heaven in Peregian Beach – the
natural, sustainable, climate-suitable cloth can be found lining the
racks in most clothing stores. Newcomer Cloth & Hide should be
your first port of call, with their beautiful, timeless range of linen
and cotton garments, leather shoes and bags, accessories and
on-trend kidswear. Sunshine Coast designer Moon Lane has her
coastal-cool range hand-crafted ethically in Bali in small quantities
by home sewers that she visits several times a year.





 





more must-do’s


 

Surf gear, ethical fashion brands,
organic sunscreen and skincare.
  


Local art and ceramics, artisan
goods and designer clothing labels.
STYLE WORKROOM  
 





Meticulously curated floral cotton vintage Secondhand and recycled
dresses and an extensive range of preloved garments, alterations and repairs.
denim overalls, jeans and shorts, topped 

 

off with a body-positive sustainable styling Seriously! Every shop in Peregian
service – we heart you, Style Workroom. has something eco to offer.





 




MIDMODOZ THE ROMANTIC

Mid-century modern furniture and vintage There’s a lot to swoon over at The Romantic:
collectables sit alongside stylish, quirky and organic clothing labels Kowtow and Bassike,
minimal homewares, local art, ceramics, handloomed towels from Mayde, Corkcicle
books and gifts at Midmodoz. Many of the reusable water bottles, artisanal handwo-
classic furniture pieces are lovingly restored ven hats and a huge Aesop skincare range,
and reupholstered, ready for a second life. among other great goodies.
!!6KRS.LQJƛVKHU'ULYH 








101
 
 SKÅL COFFEE
The terrible thing about starting your day
at Skål Coffee is the difficulty in making
a decision from their innovative – and
extremely drool-worthy – menu. Do
you choose the sweet potato cake with
coconut sorbet, pineapple and pina
colada couli? The vegan benedict with
field mushrooms, housemade kimchi
and cashew nut hollandaise on pumpkin
sourdough? Or maybe an almond maple
chia bowl instead? Sigh. While you’re
contemplating your first-world problems,
check out their range of reusable Keep-
Cups and single origin coffee, or snack on
a raw chocolate caramel slice.
!!6KRS.LQJƛVKHU'U

more must-do’s
 



Fresh, modern Middle Eastern food
with Allpress Espresso coffee.




Authentic Japanese – all sugar free,
free range and mostly gluten free.

 



Smoothies, juices, acai bowls, raw CARVE DELI
treats and hearty, healthy meals. You know when you stumble on a place




that seems just SO good you want to keep
Quality, locally sourced ingredients, it a secret and not tell anyone in case it
craft beers and top musos. becomes too popular, but at the same time
you want to shout it from the rooftops? One
that may, for example, have low-priced
super-delicious food with gluten-free and PITCHFORK
vegan options, craft beer, kombucha and
Stylish and sophisticated, both in decor and
organic ice blocks (and ‘blocktails’ instead
cuisine, the award-winning Pitchfork is a
of cocktails)... Yeah. That. Avert your eyes.
must for beautifully crafted food from local
!!6KRSVDQG'DYLG/RZ:D\9LOODJH6TXDUH meat, seafood and seasonal produce.
!!6KRS.LQJƛVKHU'ULYH9LOODJH6TXDUH

1 02
 EMU MOUNTAIN
A leisurely 20-minute stroll up Emu Mountain
will take you to the best seats in the house – with
stunning sea views (and seasonal whale spot-
ting), rugged rocky outcrops and native bushland.
!!+DYDQD5RDG(DVW&RROXP%HDFK

more must-do’s


 


Indulge in some self-care with a
Third Stone Botanicals treatment.

 


A shallow salt lake for peaceful
picnics, kayaking or wildlife spotting.

THE VINTAGE BICYCLE 




ELECTRIC HIRE COMPANY Hip, fresh cuts as well as tees, hair
products and vintage vinyl.
Based in Noosa, but with drop-offs avail-
able in Peregian, this bike hire company 



Family-friendly music on the beach
will help you explore the coastline and sur-

PEREGIAN BEACH
MARKETS
Every first and third Sunday, the beachfront
bursts with artisan stalls boasting eco, local,
recycled, vintage and handmade (such as



the second Sunday of each month.
rounding areas on your own state-of-the-
art, uber-cool electric wheels. With USB
ports to charge your phone, fat tyres to ride
on the beach and a bicycle battery charger
so you don’t run out of steam, these bikes
are the best way to see the beautiful beach
and beyond.
!!WKHYLQWDJHELF\FOHFRPDXLPDJHVXSSOLHG
ceramicist Liquorice Moon, pictured above).
!!.LQJƛVKHU3DUN3HUHJLDQ%HDFK
103
 INDIE INSIGHTS public holiday
CARLY BUTEUX’S DESIRE FOR A SCREEN-FREE
CREATIVE OUTLET LED TO A RATHER LOVELY LINE
OF WARES, ALL HAND-MADE IN HER SYDNEY STUDIO.

photos COURTESY OF PUBLIC HOLIDAY

.......

Tell us about Public Holiday...

It’s a small brand of functional ceramics made and decorated by hand, which
embrace the beauty in imperfection. The natural colours and textures of a variety
of stoneware clays, as well as striking pops of colour, are a consistent feature of my
work. Embracing the concept of slow living, each piece is designed to bring joy to
daily rituals!

How did you get started in ceramics?

I was working as a creative director but craving an outlet for my hands, away from
the computer. This led to a bunch of workshops seeking something tactile that
would scratch my creative itch. I tried crochet, jewellery-making and eventually a
wheel-thrown ceramics course. It was love at first throw! Beaming from ear-to-ear, I
immediately enrolled in a term of courses, and it all took off from there.

What’s your workspace like?

My studio’s part of our unusual home space – we live in a converted corner shop
with a mezzanine bedroom and an amazing Georgia Hill mural sprawled over the
outside of our building. It’s modest but functional and opens onto our cactus-filled
courtyard, where our sausage dog likes to laze in the sun. Shelving is key, and is often
covered with lots of pieces in different stages of production, new prototypes, glaze

“
tests and – of course – some friendly studio plants.

Can you describe a typical day?

It’s pretty magical As a one-woman-show and small business owner, that’s very hard to do! Each day
involves juggling of a lot of different tasks. I usually have breakfast and a giant cup of
to start with a piece tea in the sun with a record playing, chatting with my partner and answering emails.
It’s a slow start, and a nice way to plan ahead. The rest of the day usually involves
of the earth – a ball getting completely covered in clay! From throwing pieces on the wheel and slab
rolling to attaching handles, hand-painting patterns or glazing, most of my time is

of clay – and craft it spent working in the studio while listening to favourite tunes or podcasts.

What’s been a career highlight?

with your own two Being curated by the National Gallery of Victoria to create a collection for their store
has definitely been a highlight. On a more humble note, spending time at design
hands, and a whole markets meeting customers is indescribable. Seeing the excitement and interaction
with pieces (my favourite is the pretend sip from a mug!) and hearing about the new

”
lot of love, into a homes they will live in is incredibly special.

functional object What do you love most about what you do?
My absolute favourite thing about working with clay is the longevity of the medium.
It’s pretty magical to start with a piece of the earth – a ball of clay – and craft it with
your own two hands, and a whole lot of love, into a functional object: a mug that
can be enjoyed in daily rituals for the longest time, or a planter that can be a forever
home for your favourite plant friend.

104

WILD WATTLE
Wild Wattle’s petal-like earrings are made
using biodegradable materials and recycled
sterling silver wire. With colours inspired by
nature, each pair is beautifully unique.
wildwattle.com
PERKii
Quench your thirst with Perkii, a world-first
probiotic water drink with over a billion
probiotics and just 26 calories! Choose from
five fruity flavours and give your gut a treat.
perkii.com.au
WOOLERINA
Blend comfort and style with Woolerina’s
super-soft and versatile Relaxed Fit Cowl
Neck, available in black, turquoise and
midnight and designed for layering.
woolerina.com.au
RAGLAN COCONUT YOGHURT
The Vanilla Bean and Strawberry & Acai
yoghurts from this family-run business are
vegan, preservative free, have no added sugar
and come in recyclable packaging. Yum!
raglancoconutyoghurt.co.nz
SLOW THREADS
Enjoy some ethical treats this Easter with
Slow Threads’ cute and cuddly bunnies,
handmade in Germany from organic cotton
and filled with lambswool. Hop to it!
slowthreads.com.au
YEALANDS
Raise a glass to the Yealands Estate Land
Made Rosé – it’s a perfect match for fresh
salads, and a great wine to enjoy with the
last of the summer sun.
yealands.co.nz
good stuff
THE LATEST AND GREATEST
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With Certified Organic, plant-based ingre-
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LULUDU
Step out in style with Luludu’s unique crochet
shoes, lovingly hand-made by disadvantaged
women in Bali using high-quality hemp yarn
and vegan leather.
luludu.com.au
105
 



 


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small, passionate team trying to make a big difference in the world – so every little bit of support helps.
When we band together, it’s amazing what can be achieved.
Thank you for helping to make Peppermint possible!

Kelley, Bec, Zoe, Helen, Lisa and Roxane xxx

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 E NTE RTA I NMI NT
BOOKS

STICKY FINGERS,
GREEN THUMB
Hayley McKee
Discover the edible delights of nature
under the guidance of baker extraor-
dinaire Hayley McKee. This gorgeous
cookbook is devoted to baked goods
and tasty treats made using veggies,
herbs and edible flowers, from sweet
pea and green tea cake to passionfruit
cupcakes with raspberry basil frosting.
It’s a garden of delicious delights!

 




SLOW CLOTHING
FINDING MEANING IN WHAT WE WEAR // Jane Milburn

Stitch up your approach to sustainable fashion with this thoughtful guide to changing how
you think about your wardrobe, written by social entrepreneur and Textile Beat founder Jane
Milburn. Slow Clothing offers simple, practical ways to embrace Jane’s sartorial philosophy:
buying and wearing carefully, developing the skills to repair and refashion, and imbuing
every garment you own with meaning. Packed with inspiring ideas and useful tips (including
diagrams that show you how to hand-stitch, darn and sew on buttons), Slow Clothing is the
perfect fast fashion antidote.
Subscriber exclusive! If you’re a current subscriber, email us at yesplease@peppermintmag.
com with ‘Slow’ in the subject line by 14 May 2018 to go in the draw to win one of three copies.
THE HAPPINESS PLAN
Dr Elise Bialylew
ON OUR SHELF
What if you could train your brain to
be happier? According to Australian
psychiatrist and mindfulness expert
Dr Elise Bialylew, you can enhance
wellbeing, improve relationships,
reduce stress and more in just 10
minutes a day. Packed with fascinating
scientific facts, daily exercises and
guided meditations, The Happiness
SUNBURNT COUNTRY THE GOOD HUSTLE HEALTHY HORMONES HEART TALK Plan is your guide to better living.
THE HISTORY AND FUTURE OF CLIMATE CREATING A HAPPY, HEALTHY A PRACTICAL GUIDE TO BALANCING YOUR POETIC WISDOM
CHANGE IN AUSTRALIA

BUSINESS WITH HEART

HORMONES BELINDA KIRKPATRICK & FOR A BETTER LIFE ..........
JOËLLE GERGIS DR POLLY MCGEE AINSLEY JOHNSTONE CLEO WADE
 TV CAFES

OTHER PEOPLE’S
PROBLEMS
Erin White
This charming dramedy series
follows copywriter and aspiring
environmentalist Florence as
she sets out to ghost-write other
people’s letters in exchange for
secondhand clothing. But is
Florence’s mission simply a way
for her to avoid dealing with her
own problems? Based on the SUPERFLUID // The Carlton Club, 193 Bourke St, Melbourne, Vic
real-life website Clothing for Hangovers are so 2017. Instead, put down your pint and pop to the pub for a cold-pressed juice,
Correspondence, this whimsical courtesy of the super trendy Superfluid. With holographic retro packaging and recyclable glass
TV show explores the small bottles, their range of health-supporting concoctions and raw treats was created with the help
dramas of everyday life and what of nutrition specialists, including a medical doctor, a traditional Chinese doctor, an Ayurvedic
it means to help others. doctor and a nutritional scientist. The juices, smoothies and nut ‘mylks’, with names such as
Morning Glory and Easy Tiger, contain everything from pineapple and jalapeno to rose water
and schizandra. Melburnians can order online or find Superfluid in pubs, including The Carlton
Club, and the brand even offers special hangover remedies – just in case you didn’t spend the
PODCAST whole time at the pub sipping on a green juice.

THINK:
SUSTAINABILITY
Jake Morcom & Miles Herbert
This inspiring new Australian
podcast wants you to think big
about our global future. Each
episode explores a different
sustainability issue, from
Australia’s affordable housing
crisis to the carbon footprint
of our Facebook posts. Rather
than focusing on the problem,
host Jake Morcom delves deep
into innovative solutions and
transformative approaches that
could pave the way to a more
sustainable future.
FOLK
1/399 Ewingsdale Road, Byron Bay, Qld
There’s nowt so tasty as Folk, a laidback
Byron Bay cafe that dishes up organic
vegetarian fare with a nostalgic seventies
vibe – think wooden bowls, lush plantlife
and simple timber furniture. Their menu
features locally sourced ingredients and
nourishing creations such as pearl barley
porridge, vegan pho and the abundant
rainbow breakfast roll, dished up on rustic
wooden plates and bowls. Roll up, folks!
BREAD & CIRCUS
WHOLEFOODS CANTEEN
21 Fountain Street, Alexandria, NSW
Pastel pink plates and plants aplenty are
served up at Bread & Circus, along with a
healthy dose of, well, healthy fare. Biody-
namic eggs, raw probiotic kimchi, grass-
fed lamb and organic chicken, quinoa and
kale... the ingredients on the menu read
like a veritable roll call of sustainability
101. Grab a salad share plate and join the
community-minded communal tables.
NO U R I S HMI NT

M AKE I T YOURSELF:

pasta dough
Mamma mia! We partnered with our friends at
Lighthouse to bring you this easy-as DIY pasta
recipe, so you can seriously impress your friends
in pretty much no time at all.

INGREDIENTS METHOD
Combine the flour and salt in a large mixing bowl or on a clean
1 & 2⁄3 CUPS (250g) chopping board or bench top. Make a well in the centre. Place
LIGHTHOUSE PASTA the eggs, yolks and oil in the well and beat the eggs with a fork,
TIPO OO PLAIN FLOUR
gradually incorporating the flour in from the sides.
Bring together with your hands and knead to form a dough. If
PINCH OF SALT the mix is too dry, add water one teaspoon at a time until the
dough comes together. Knead the dough until it’s smooth and
1 TBSP OLIVE OIL elastic, cover with cling film or reusable beeswax wrap (make
sure the dough is wrapped tightly and is perfectly sealed to
2 EGGS ensure it doesn’t dry out) and place in the refrigerator for 2–3
hours to rest.
3 EGG YOLKS
Cut the dough into four pieces. Take one piece of dough at
a time and shape as desired, keeping the remaining pieces
Lighthouse Pasta Tipo 00 Plain Flour wrapped up until needed.
- available from Coles, Woolworths
and selected independent stockists.
lighthousebaking.com.au
CHOOSE YOUR PASTA TYPE
LASAGNE SHEETS
Roll dough through a pasta machine or roll by hand with a roll-
ing pin into thin sheets. Cut to the desired size and shape.

FARFALLE
Roll dough into sheets as for lasagne, and then use a fluted pas-
try wheel or sharp knife to cut into 2.5 x 5cm rectangles. Pinch
together rectangles in the centre of the long side to create bow
tie shapes.

FETTUCCINE AND LINGUINI

Roll the dough into sheets as for lasagne, and then cut into thin,
3mm strips for linguini or thicker, 12mm strips for fettuccine.

RAVIOLI
Roll the dough into sheets as for lasagne. Place teaspoonfuls of
your desired filling 2–3cm apart on the pasta sheet, and then
lay a second sheet over the top and press firmly around the
fillings to remove any air. Use a fluted pastry wheel or sharp
knife to cut around each ravioli.

111
 T H E L A ST WO R D
ZOE JAZZ
Zoe is the founder of Ain’t No
Planet B, a blog documenting her
transition towards zero waste.
Her positive, realistic posts
provide others with inspira-
tion for their own zero-waste
journeys without the guilt.
AINTNOPLANETB.COM
112
progress, not
perfection
As a society we’ve been getting really wasted
lately and it’s kind of trashy. Lifestyle changes
have resulted in more activity away from the
home, more snacking and more consumption of
fast foods. We’re so busy that convenience is per-
ceived to be essential. In 2017, the CSIRO found
that easements, car parks, highways, industrial
areas, retail strips and shopping areas have the
highest levels of litter. In the name of conve-
nience, our public spaces are getting trashed.
Inadvertent littering is a widespread issue.
Ninety-five percent of litter found on Australian
beaches comes from suburban streets through
the stormwater system. By linking worldwide data
on solid waste, population density and economic
status, Science magazine has estimated that
eight million metric tons of plastic waste enter
the oceans from land each year. But a change is
on the horizon. It’s time to redesign our resource
lifecycles so that nothing is truly wasted. It’s time
to aim for zero waste.
My transition to a waste-free home has taught me
that zero waste is not about perfection. It requires
incremental steps and should enrich your life. We
can’t flick a switch from egocentric to ecocentric.
In pursuit of environmental sustainability, I’m
passionate about behavioural change that incor-
porates compassion and realism.
It’s about baby steps. Think about all the amazing
things you already do, and then gently add one
more. From the first step, it’s important to remind
oneself that the destination isn’t literally zero –
it’s incremental improvements towards that
vision. It’s reduction to a lower impact lifestyle.
Once the pressure is lifted and each step is taken,
a zero-waste vision can become more attainable.
Any form of change should enhance our lives –
we’re not likely to adopt new habits if it means
an unpleasant compromise, so the zero-waste
alternative should be as good as or better than
the wasteful version. Respond to poor experi-
ences as an opportunity to pivot and take a
different approach. My hair, skin and general
wellbeing is better thanks to zero-waste prac-
tices. This positive reinforcement has helped me
welcome new changes to my routine.
We have a common goal; many of us are just
aiming for the same target from different van-
tage points. Some people choose to focus on
being ethical, vegan or humanitarian. Zero waste
just happens to be my area of focus. By tackling
different issues, we can work together. Recent
trends towards eating for activism are breeding
a culture of polarisation. I don’t think you’re an
earth-hater if you eat meat, just as I don’t think
you’re “part of the problem” if you have chil-
dren. Nobody should ever feel guilty about being
brought up in a world where consumption and
waste is normal. It’s not our fault and we can’t
be expected to change without support from the
wider community. We’re all in this together.
We need to be realistic. My friends who have
medical conditions do not have the same options
as me and that’s OK. Many of us struggle with the
financial implications of buying organic produce
and ethical products. Be realistic about what you
can and can’t do. Let’s not punish ourselves if
we’re not perfect.
Patience is boring, but extremely effective.
Through tiny incremental changes over 12
months, my husband and I switched from fort-
nightly garbage collection to having little need
for rubbish services at all. It took six months for
us to learn the ropes of a zero-waste lifestyle.
During this time, we learned how to buy pack-
age free, prevent food waste, make our own
cleaners, detox from chemical deodorants, track
our consumption, utilise community, cook with
wholefoods, buy seasonal produce and manage
our compost bins. By taking it one step at a time,
we’ve ensured that this lifestyle can be sustained.
My big tip? If you desire change, consider taking
on incremental habits. Change five minutes of
your average day: it could be the length of your
shower, your coffee routine, your lunch choices
or your laundry. Change one tiny thing and set-
tle with that until it feels normal. Then change
another teeny tiny thing. And when you do, tell
others about these small changes so we can
celebrate them together.
“
Everyone in the fashion supply
chain should be aware, informed
or educated about ethics
where are the fashion ethicists?
My book Fashion Ethics – a comprehensive
description of the ethical issues in the fashion
garment lifecycle – was released last September.
But after publication, I am left with a question:
where is the professional fashion ethicist?
I would argue that everyone in the fashion sup-
ply chain should be aware, informed or educated
about ethics. It needs to be systemic. But I also
believe there needs to be a professional fashion
ethicist in the management structure. Not a
fashion ethicist-slash-corporate communica-
tions officer, but a full-on fashion ethicist in their
own right. There are bioethicists in the medical
industry and ethicists in the food manufactur-
ing industry. Hasn’t the fashion industry proven
it is lacking in ethics? A few examples: in the
2013 Rana Plaza factory disaster, 1138 people
died. Then there are Oxfam reports on labour,
Greenpeace reports on hazardous dyes or PETA
comments on the use of fur – and this is just
scratching the surface. So surely fashion is an
ideal candidate for its own ethicists?
Ethicists are needed to ensure ethics is not
treated as a shallow version of risk analysis; the
job description does not require someone who
is only informed about the current certifications
and badges of compliance. Rather, this is a holis-
tic role based on the current and future ethics of
this complex, volatile world in which we work and
live. They would need to be aware and informed
of not only the changing markets, but their needs
and expectations. For example, fashion manage-
ment for large European and American labels is
usually located in the geographic north, and their
ethics are predominantly Judeo-Christian. But is
that an accurate reflection of their workers – or
their markets? In other industries, things are dif-
ferent. For example, New Zealand exports almost
entirely halal-certified meat in order to cater to a
diverse global market. The Pew Research Centre
stated in 2016 that “Muslims aged 15 to 29 are
expected to reach 490 million by 2020”. This is a
market that loves fashion and technology, is loyal
”
to labels and is sensitive to the needs of its faith
and ethical behaviour in general. But the majority
of the fashion industry seems to be sidestepping
the global Muslim market.
Perhaps more important are the ethics of the
workers in the supply chain. Traditionally, they
have been voiceless. Are the ethics of these
women understood and addressed? Are their
geopolitical and religious needs understood?
There are women working in Sri Lanka – a Bud-
dhist country with a conservative culture – mak-
ing skimpy underwear for the western market. Is DR SUE THOMAS
their experience of work shameful? What are their
alternatives? These issues are not included in the
simplistic reading of fashion ethics being a two- Dr Sue Thomas is Assistant Profes-
sor of Fashion at the UK’s Heriot-
issue subject: labour rights and the environment. Watt University. Her recent book
Ethics also matter when it comes to sales, espe- ‘Fashion Ethics’ is a comprehensive
cially for the discerning millennial audience,
look at the issues in the industry
- covering closed-loop systems,
which means companies will be held to account. diversity, technology and more.
The narrative and ethics of how or where gar-
TEX.HW.AC.UK/TEAM/
ments are made will be scrutinised. Techno- DR-SUE-THOMAS
logically savvy millennial graduates will also
be evaluating employers prior to applying for
jobs – how many amazing people may not apply
for a role because of the ethics of a company?
Likewise, ethics are a way of retaining good staff.
Given the choice, wouldn’t you want to work
for an honourable, compassionate company?
It’s time for in-house training at labels, looking
broadly at global ethics. As a fashion academic, I
believe there need to be threads of both theoret-
ical and practical ethics in fashion design, man-
agement and communication programs – which
is why we’ve created an MSc in Ethics in Fashion
at Heriot-Watt University in Galashiels, Scotland.
So if it’s clear the industry, the consumers, the
workers, the future employees (and the planet)
need fashion ethics, then there can’t be any-
more procrastination. We’ve seen what can be
achieved when people band together, so it’s
time to start lobbying for a fashion industry that
utilises and values ethicists.

113
 PE PPE R MI NT P OLL
what’s your family motto?
WE ASKED A FEW PEOPLE FROM THIS ISSUE TO SHARE THEIR THOUGHTS...
AMBER CLEVERLEY
Bus Life NZ
We have a few: Design your life. Throw
away your brilliant career and start
living. And, if you want something
you’ve never had, you’ve got to do
something you’ve never done.
MICHELLE LAW
Writer
We don’t have a family motto, but if
we did I think it would be about not
taking yourself too seriously – or
something about personal hygiene
and bodily fluids!
JARRAD AND MICHAEL
DUGGAN-TIERNEY
Real Dads of Melbourne
We stand by one another as a family,
and live by our motto: “Everyone has
an opinion they are entitled to, and
that opinion is none of our business.”
1 14
HANNAH NOWLAN
Grain of Descent
“We could make that!” This might
not quite be our family motto, but it’s
definitely something we say a lot of the
time. We don’t usually buy things when
we know we can make them ourselves
– purely because there is something
more meaningful and valuable about
objects that are hand-made with love. GRACE LILLIAN LEE
Artist and Designer
Speak softly, but carry a big stick.
HELEN DEWAR
Peppermint Assistant Editor
The Dewar family motto, which my dad
told me repeatedly as I grew up, is:
“If in doubt, do nowt.” It’s a Yorkshire
saying that could at first sound a little
miserable, but really just means if you
have niggling doubts about something,
don’t rush into making a decision. You
can always decide to go ahead, but it’s
more difficult to undo something. As
a Very Impatient Person, it’s saved my GEORGIA BRIZUELA
bacon countless times. Photographer
As an ode to a favourite film of mine
[Captain Fantastic], our family motto
would probably be: “Power to the peo-
ple; stick it to the man.” I started saying
it jokingly at school drop-offs or when
one of the kids was going to attempt
something adventurous, but it’s stuck
and now they’ll yell it if I haven’t said
it first. When we posted our marriage
equality ballot, I whispered, “Power
to the People,” while I dropped it in,
and three little legends whispered
solemnly: “Stick. It. To. The. Man.”
 Celebrating the Women of the Commonwealth

 



 


 

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