Professional Documents
Culture Documents
2018 Sinha LivingGhatsofVaranasi
2018 Sinha LivingGhatsofVaranasi
net/publication/328143561
CITATIONS READS
0 296
1 author:
Amita Sinha
78 PUBLICATIONS 126 CITATIONS
SEE PROFILE
Some of the authors of this publication are also working on these related projects:
Envisioning a Resilient Cultural Landscape: Ghats on the Ganga, Varanasi, India View project
All content following this page was uploaded by Amita Sinha on 08 October 2018.
ABSTRAET
At Varanasi, y,here the Gonga rererses its flow, the 81 ghats in a 6.8 km
,stretch are an icortic intoge ctf the city. Their buih./Abri(, sy6f 1'scl oyg.y
600 years Jront sel/-organized s.y'stems ctf v,ctrship and pilgrimage. The
cultural landscape of'the ghots i.s de/ined by situcttec! er)ents, natural
.flooding, silting, and changingflot,of the Gcmgo; antl utlhral inclLrdinc'
rituol actit,ities and perJot'tnLtnces thot suslain the public life. Mt,poper
v'ill interpret the built.fabric of the ghttts in ternts o;f its ort,hitectttrul
Amita Sinha is the author of Landscapes and spatiol language ancl comtrtore rhe historic.pctlaces cutd temples
in lndia: Forms and Meanings (University lining the riverJront v,ith the alc:oves, aedict.tles, pavilions, and pltttfbrns
Press of Colorado, 2006; reprinted by thal poptrlate the .\teps and landings. TJte monuntental and t,et.naculctr
Asia Educational Services, 2011 ) editor of crrchitectw'e represent the dichotontl) o/'arts cmd c.rafis and are a sludy it
Landscape Percepflon (Academic Press, controst betw,een privctte and ptrblic spaces. The ghat .\tt.uctures ond their.
1995) and Natural Heiiage ofDef,l(UStEF portable filrnittn'e have cm artisanal quolitl, to them, as the1, are bttilt d
and INTACH, 2009), and co-editor of local materials with a close Jit beru,een .fbrnt and.filnctiott, are improvised
Cultural Landscapes of South Asia: Sfudles and product oJ collective elJbrts. The enacted landscape is dt,nrtntic ancl
in Heritage Conservation and Management evolving, in .sustaining the spirituttl life of pilgritns and local re.sidents,
(Routledge, 2017). She has been involved and bttilding comtnunities. I challenge the erclusiye.fbcus tdconservatic.tn
in planning and designing of heritage elJbrts on montmtental architecture and argue thqt the vernoculctr
landscapes in lndia including the Taj Mahal landscape represents cm ctmolgant of material and in/angible heritage.
in Agra with Terence Harkness, Champaner-
water levels in the monsoon and dry seasons. At The landscape is inscribed by place making actions
Varanasi, where the Ganga reverses its flow, the 84 of the faithful that affirm the sacred, Around and in-
ghats (steps and landings) in a 6.8 kilometre stretch between the many sacred 'centres', everyday life
are a cultural landscape deflned by situated events; swirls - commerce, recreation and craft making occur
natural including flooding, silting and changing flow of in spatial practices of multiple communities. Spatial
the Ganga, and cultural including ritual activities and practices 'structure the determining condifions of social
performances that sustain public life. The built fabric life'(de Certeau 1984, p. 96) and articulate the design
of the ghats is interpreted in terms of its architectural language ofthe ghats.
and spatial language and historic palaces and temples
lining the riverfront are compared with the alcoves, DEEiIGN GRAMMAR
aedicules, pavilions, and platforms that populate the
steps and landings. The monumental and vernacular Place-making by residents, use of local materials
architecture, despite sharing a design grarrrmar are a and close fit between form and function define the
study in contrasts between private and public spaces. vemacular landscape of the ghats. The structures
The ghat structures and their portable furniture have are made by crafting building form, with material
an artisanal quality to them. Built of local materials consciousness, working with hands, using skills
with a close fit between form and function, these are grounded in physical practice, and drawing upon
improvised and a product of collective efforts. They collective shared knowledge (Sennett 2008). Two
are a catalyst for diurnal and seasonal spatial practices principles can be discemed in interpreting the design
tied to the movement of sun, moon, and the Ganga. gmmmar of ghats; shared vocabulary between
The enacted landscape is dynamic and evolving in historic buildings and steps and landings, andjugaad,
sustaining the spiritual life of pilgrims, local residents (improvised or make-do) implying innovation with
and building communities. The verracular landscape limited resources. The monumental temples and palaces
represents an amalgam of material and intangible on the riverfront give it a majestic and imposing
heritage that require a rethinking ofcurrent heritage skyline, while the small shrines and alcoves below on
policy exclusively focused on monumental architecture, the landings are unobtrusive until one sfumbles upon
A new conservation approach for improving the them. Although differing in scale, they use the same
legibility of the spatial and temporal structure of public architectural prototypes.
life on the ghats is proposedl.
The historic buildings are foft-like, solid and closed
Not only are the ghats a threshold to the Ganga, below to protect against a flooding Ganga and open at
enabling the devotee to interact with the holy river in the top for views and breezes. In contrast, the shops and
various ways, they are also the public commons of site fumiture are human scale, appear to be temporary
Varanasi with a rich social life. They are based upon and built with found materials. They are examples
the archetypal built form with the purpose of gaining ofjugaad, a way of thinking and acting in everyday
access to rising and falling water levels in wells, tanks life in response to challenges and overcoming them
and rivers. Built by royal and other wealthy patrons ingeniously (Radj ou, Prabhu, and Ahuja 2012). The
over 800 hundred years, their simple and utilitarian historic and vernacular illustrate the contrasting static
form is adjusted to local topographic conditions. and kinetic city (Mehrotra 2008). Kinetic urbanism
The Ganga, sun, and other gods and goddesses are is always in flux, occupies interstitial spaces between
worshipped on the ghats, making it a liminal zone monuments, where marginalised communities
where sacred exists amidst the profane. Varanasi is participate in the informal urban economy. While
the body of Shiva and the river is the goddess Ganga the static city is associated with architectural
incarnate, with the edge between them charged with monuments, the kinetic city is a temporal articulation
sacred energy that erupts in the forms of syam-bhu and occupation ofspace. The historic palaces are a
(self-manifested) lingas (Shiva's aniconic form). As silent testimony to the passage of time and mostly
Diana Eck (1983, p. 29) explains, inaccessible to the public, closed up, illegally occupied
In one mahatmya, Shiva explains, "My lingas are by tenants, or converted into hotels. Their solid walls
everywhere there, like little sprouts arisen out of sheer however are a backdrop to cremations, daily rituals,
bliss. Thus it is called the Forest of Bliss". A forest with spectacular events and social encounters.
Shiva lingas as thick as the fresh sprouts of spring: this
is the vision of the sacred city as the Forest of Bliss, the While stairs are the dominant feature of the ghats,
Anandavana or Anandakanana. temple spires, fort walls and marhi (octagonal
Document.ing and Understanding Cultural Landscape TypoLogies 105
Skyline
'r:'r' lilfl
a'
Formal Language
}j+i:
.t;#,$tu
; ffi 11.i].r!
: i
r:r,ii;lii'
:
,,f,,F, *;{,
i*.,sr-1rtg*.
a -:r
J*
=:=*%
Legend
Templ8s Palaces Vefiaculaf Fofms
.#
#,,*&
"
'=.-sss' +
1?t *.-
-*iE
.+ 'o' ."1i. fu
Devotee performing daily ritual
Ghat umbrella
,€
'l4iiil:.=-:.-
{
::::
g=.. -' -
%ful
Do.unentrng and Understanding Cultural -ardscape -ypologres 707
t-r,
1f*"-"-:r*
on ghats consist of small aedicules in which the
deity is housed in a niche, equivalent ofthe garbha
griha (womb-house) in large temples. Occasionally
& s- the shrine is fronted by a small nave, the space for
i#*l gathering before the deity. New forms and materials are
# I\ lu!ffi.+e
*F!-a-
afl i.,;
-'"
being used as the square aedicule becomes octagonal,
pyramidal spires turn domical, and carved walls
become plain and covered with tiles.
&lr
Et:4Ei
:
j $_* The alcove on the ternple exterior, as visible in
Panchkroshi Temple, climbs down to the ghats housing
T
lingas, Ganga, and other gods and goddesses. Brightly
painted, the alcoves are striking against the beige
steps and palace walls. They intemrpt the linearity of
structures dividing the steps into bays) appear in steps in creating volumes and pauses. Some are solid
syncopated rhythms. Spires are bunched up, walls to strengthen steps, others house deities orpeople.
stretch or are cut short, stairs widen or narow, are They occur in profusion on the river's edge in Kedar,
steep or gentle, and the marhis are close together or Manikarnika, and Panchganga Ghats where they are
spaced evenly. The prototypical elements in historic square or octagonal, hollow or solid. Some hollow
architecture, such as spires, bastions, jharokhas cubes contain lingas, others are meant for yogis to
(balconies), appear again al lower levels, embedded in meditate. They conform to the image of Ganga washing
steps and landings instead of in buildings. The corner over the head ofShiva as a seated yogi or alinga,
bastions offort-palaces, built to resist the flow of celebrated in temple interiors. At Dashashwamedh and
the storming Ganga are reflected in marhis, temples Assi Ghats, the hollow cubes and prisms house barbers
in aedicular shrines, andjharokhas and pavilions in and shopkeepers. Humans and gods populate the
colonnades extruding from steps. alcoves on the ghats and their interiors could be either
sacred or profane spaces.
Tall temple spires punctuate the skyline of the ghats
and smaller shrines further down below on steps Arcades from the upper floors ofhistoric palaces
and landings mimic their form. The Hindu temple climb down, some are single storied, others two
as interpreted byAdam Hardy (2007) is a symbol storied, solid above and open below, appearing to
of cosmos whose multiplicity is revealed in temple extrude out of the steps. At Lalita Ghat, they are just
facades and spires consisting of seemingly innumerable above the Ganga and contain shrines to goddesses.
I I
&iEr*riei3+iI!iF6
The octagonal freestanding pavilion is used for ritual geographies. The soundscape ofthe ghats is dominated
\vorship as in Manikarnika Ghat (where Visl.u.ru's by public recitation of mantras (sacred syllables) and
t-eet are enshrined) or is used fbr relaxing as in those shlokas (sacred verses), singing ofbhajans (devotional
recently built at Assi Ghat. Dashashrvamedh Ghat songs), chants of Ram Naam Satya Hai (God's name
has a srn,ilar design grammar rvith aeclicules. i.narhis. is truth), and loud utterances of Om Namah Shivaya.
and alcoves popr-rlating the steps. This ghat has a Music wafts down the ghats from rooftops and
higher proportion ol semi-fixed and mor able takhts courtyards of adjoining buildings, and social interaction
(wooden cots). On this as rvell as on other ghats, the1, among many Western tourists revolves around the
are used for nrany pulposes such as fbr aarti (u,ar ing vibrant sonic culture of Varanasi (Zara 2011, p. 2a\.
ollamps) perfbnnances at dar'r,n and dusk. display of
rvares. ritr-Lals, massages. group con\ elsatiotrs. and Public life in the ghats is sustained by multiple
so on. Since the ghats are alu,ays bathed in sunshine" communities of ghatiyas (ritual priests), boatmen,
thatched umbrellas cover them. adding a distinctir e aghoris (ascetics), barbers, washermen, vendors,
touch to the vievr,s. Old photographs and paintings backpacker tourists, pilgrim groups, students,
show the umbrellas in protiLsion. adding to the mourners, among others.3 Some are actively engaged
picturesque eft-ect.r Neu, rraterials such as cloth and in worship, making folk-art, crafting objects, and
plastic are being used these days to cover their ban.rboo selling wares; others observe, and participate in
liamer'vork. casual social encounters and mesmerising spectacles.
Religious, commercial, and recreational activities
SPATIAL PRAtrTItrE5 occur in close proximity and structures and spaces
have multiple functions. The mix of sacred and profane
In bridging the river as holy as Ganga and a city as and the intrusion of private in the public are intriguing
sacred as Varanasi, the ghats have become an iconic to visitors and tourists. There is a diurnal rhy'thm
image with the most famous skyline in India. Walking to activities tied to movement of sun in the sky, in
to the wide-open and sunny ghats from the nalrow worshipping, individually and collectively at dawn and
dark lanes ofold Varanasi is a study in contrast in dusk. Events on ghats celebrate other rhythms as well,
kinesthetic and haptic perception. Walking along the of seasons tied to the movement of sun and the cycle
ghats is a different experience altogether, with the high of the waxing and waning moon. The cosmic cycle of
and solid buildings on one side and the expansive, creation and dissolution of the universe is symbolically
flowing river on the other. The body is immersed in the enacted in cremation rites (Parry 1981). Social,
flow of activities in moving through or pausing. The biological and natural rhyhms interact to create the
experience is rich and stimulating, a total engagement lived experience of time. According to Lefebvre and
of the proximate senses in acoustic and olfactory Regulier (2014,p.82):
Documenting and Understanding Cultural Lanclscape Typologies 109
The study of everyday 1i1'e has alread.v clernonstrated this the evening. the ghat is transfbmed rvith the spectacle
banal and yet littlc-knorvn di1l-erence bet* een the cyclical of tlie aarti cerelrlonv rvatched bv hundreds sitting on
and tl-rc linear. betr'veen rh-vthmed tin-res atld the tiures ol' steps and landings, on balconies and rooftops. and on
brutal repetitions. This repetitior-r is tiring. erhar-Lsting trnd boats (Sinha 1015).
tedior.rs, while the rctut-tt of a c.vcle has the appearance of
an event and trn advent. lts beginning. rvbich aftel all is Space is generated in behaviour settings established
only a recommencement. ahr.'ays has the treshness of a in small groups olpilgrims. r''isitors. students. and
di:co\ el') atld att inr cttti,rn. boatlren. sitting on marhi. and on steps and landings.
talking, playing cards, singin-e. listening to discourses
The sacred is reaffirmed daily though rituals ol and eating. Boats arc madc and repaired b-v boannen
\ieneration to the Canga on the steps alld in the as are umbrellas and sn.raller cratt itenls such as flolver
shrines. Offerings of rnarigolds and bilva leaves. garlands ancl clonas (leafvcssels). Food is prepared
application ol sandalu''ood and vermilion po\\'der. over small stoves as is tea. a popular drink on the ghats.
ar.rd pouring of Ganga Jal (u,'ater from the river) o'r'er Tl.re recun'ing patterns o1'behaviour and milieu reveal a
thc linga re-appropriate and regenerate the p1ace. close flt or synomorphy (Barker 1968). The octagonal
Bathing, immersing ashes" u,ashing clothes in the fbnr of the marhi is especially conducive to groups
livcr and getting on and offthe boat, activate the in a circle; the linearity, of steps lavours the display ol
steps and shoreline tl.rrougl.rout the da.v. Floating artrvork and people rvatching.
candle-wicks and watching the aarli on u 1911' ghats
ertcnd the activities into the Ganga at dusk. Although Places are made using fbund materials. Bamboo
socialising occurs throughout the day. iate r.norning and tianres are erected over marhis. wooden platfbrms are
cvenings are more active u'ith residents and tor-rrists supported by bricks and shaded by jr'rte cloth stretched
hanging out on the ghats. On a popular ghat such as over bamboo poles, a metallic railing is installed
Dashashu,amedh. devotees offer their prayers and take around a linga and covered ii,ith tin shade. Shade liort
a holy dip, pilgrims engage in rituals. barbers ply their the incessant sun is achieved in creative \vays" such as
trade, vendors set up their carts. and tourist stroll. ln lean-tos against the u,all. clotliiburlap strullg over ropes
=
I
t
=;- i "c?€a,q&,{,e€g
stretched between bamboo poles for astrologers and and crafts. New structures should be based upon the
chai shops. Shelter is ingeniously made using minimal traditional design grarnrna\ instead of being fixed
resources through jugaad. Surfaces become canvases and rigid, they should be deployable so that they can
for public art by local artists who paint mythological adapt to kinetic urbanism. Local crafts such as bamboo
figures, sacred symbols, and natural forms. Graffiti umbrellas, wooden boats, clay pottery and making
art ranges from advertisements to moral strictures candle wick and flower garlands should be promoted
and quotes from great sages. Shiva and his family are and incentivised through subsidies. Cultural events
popular flgures as is Ganga and other goddesses. such as Subh-e-Banaras held at dawn and aartis at
dusks in many ghats should be supplemented with
Sculptures of Bhim, one of the five Pandava brothers organised exhibitions of arts and crafts, and music
of the epic Mahabharata are crafted from silt deposited and dance festivals celebrating the Banaras Gharuta
on the ghats after every monsoon as the Ganga recedes. (school). More specifically the historic monuments
The folk art celebrates living heritage by evoking should be integrated into the public realm; visual aids
myths and legends that first created the places and should be designed for way-finding; narrative surfaces
charged them with sacred energies. should be designated for folk-art; and deployable
structures should be built for vending kiosks and visitor
A NEW trBNSERV.ATIEN APPREAtrH facilities.
;
Ll2 Documenting and Understandrng Cult.ural Landscape Typologres
IT
Dronah l
I
l
i
d
ffil.l."lll...,.,.,.'6 I
I
@.O' '{''\
^i..
L
I
Chief Editor
Shikha ]ain
Guest Editors
Contents
Moe Chiba
Sonali Ghosh
V B Mathur V0h1me...........
About the .......................... iii
Editors
ForetLtord....... ......................vi
Cheena Kanwa1 Dr. Mechtild Rdssler
Parul G Munja1
''
,,.,,,:
Emall : coa!di:t8@!i,;iiliil|e&:ll:ll:l:::li:lltl:,
w.qbqile :
io-pufu*f,
h&ills{*r,l:s$*! *ta::li.
i&$ll &fil;x:iiilli
.'f:"il
aryan noo\!,,Q!gi!iii!8':llii:iil:l:i
Pooja ApartmenG|,,4Bi,Ali!a$Bbd::]]:::i'ii:.
i
** -lt"
\' .u^ J
"
, lreirllQ.r.$t!:ill$::0Q?:riilrl:lil:::::.li::il:::::::,rli:li::l:l::
" ' .{i}, -
T el: ?328758q, 8255799; Fil: 91.1 1 -2327[3b5
Fmail : arymbooLs@gmall.com
\Vebsite: htip:/ / M.aryanbooks.corn
LScN No:0973-502X