Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Pallavi Document
Pallavi Document
INTRODUCTION
For the period of four month, I interned in NAHAR GROUP OF COMPANIES which is
located in 21st Mile Stone, Ambala-Chandigarh Road, Near Lalru. It was a great learning
experience to work in NAHAR which is a manufacturer and exporter.
Exporting is a complex and challenging activity in today’s dynamic world environment
as it involves the performance of operations that determine existing and potential
demand in a market. Mill has various departments that functions in a synchronized
manner to make the export process successful.
All the departments are equally important to carry out the export process effectively but
the merchandising department, Designing and Printing plays a vital role in getting the
export orders. Thus, selecting a project on process of Designing and Printing was an
important decision.
Nahar groups, established in 1949 with oswal woolen mills, Ludhiana, surges a head in
establishing itself as a repudiated industrial conglomerate with a wide range from
spinning knitting, hosiery, garment, soaps, vegetable oils and sugar.
The nahar keeping pace with changing environment is well reputed group. It is
established in 1949. Today it is one of the leading group of company. Nahar group of
industries collaborates with a wide range of spinning, knitting, weaving, processing,
hosiery and garmenting having latest art of technology unit. The group has outstanding
performance in the national textile industries.
Nahar is at the top rank holder in spinning industries of our country. India is the
one of the largest hosiery/ knitwear manufactures and exporter, having prestigious
buyer like IZOD, old navy, GAP ,quicksilver, perryellies ,H&M etc.
The annual turnover of nahar is 18000 million.
Nahar is having buyer of india as well as from other countries including brands
like:-
1.4.1 Company’s client
International client
GAP Inc-BR
Gap and old navy
VF- Lee & Wrangler
Armani exchange
A&F
American eagle
Decathlon
Timberland
Marks & spencer
Columbia sportwear
Calvin klein
Ralph lauren
H&M
C&A
Zara
Pull & bear
Super dry
PVH
UCB
Domestic clients
Color plus
Black berry,s
Monte carlo
Parx
Indigo nation
Allen solly
Louis phillip
Louis phillip
Killer
Van heusen
Pantaloons
Peter England
Indian terrain
Shapes
Numero uno
Gini & jony
Turtle
Reliance
Myntra.com
Big bazaar
Oxemberg
Shopper’s stop
Arvind brand
1.4.2 Details
2. LITERATURE REVIEW
Export Sector of Indian Economy has improved immensely over the years and has earned
US $ 125 billion in the current fiscal year. The goods exported from India mainly include
wide variety of agricultural products, chemicals, jewelry, garments, leather goods and so
on.
India has developed business relations with a number of foreign countries like the
member countries of SAARC, some Eastern European countries as well as African
countries, Members of EU. The impressive list of countries includes:
Russia
UAE
USA
Hong Kong
UK
Japan
Germany
Singapore
Belgium
Malaysia
Netherlands
Bangladesh
Italy
Thailand
France
Australia
Belgium
The major export products of India hail from the following divisions within the
export sector of Indian economy like:
Engineering Goods
Agricultural Products
Chemicals
Marine Products
Petroleum products
Leather Goods
Textiles
Plantations
3. METHODOLOGY
The primary objective of doing this project was to understand the first hand knowledge of
the Designing, Printing and merchandising in an export house. Thus, an observational
method was required which involves systematically watching and what people say and
do.
Desiring
(burn by fire and without burning)
Scouring/ bleaching
(With the chemical H2O2)
Mercerization
Dyeing
Printing
After washing
Finishing
The required functional properities to the fiber or fabric, it is customary to subject the
material to different types of physical and chemical treatments. For example, wash and
wear finish for a cotton fabric is necessary to make it crease free or wrinkle free. In a
similar way, mercerizing, singeing, flame retardant, water repellent, waterproff, anti-static
and peach finishing achieve various fabric properities desired by consumers.
3.1.1Preparation/ Pretreatment
Singeing
↓
Desizing
↓
Scouring
↓
Bleaching
↓
Mercerization
The grey cloth woven cotton fabric in its loom-states, not only contains impurities,
including warp size, but requires further treatment in order to develop its full treatment in
order to develop its full textile potential. Furthermore, it may receive considerable added
value by applying one or more finishing processes.
3.2 Singeing
The verb ‘singe’ literally means ‘to burn superficially’. Technically, singeing refers to the
burning-off of. Loose fibres not firmly bound into the yarn and/or fabric structure.
Singeing is an important part of pretreatment. This is the burning off of protruding fiber
ends from the surface of the fabric. If not done properly, unclear print patterns, mottled
fabric surfaces, and pilling results.
3.2.1Singeing Process
To produce a smooth surface finish on fabrics made from staple fibers first the
fabric surfaces are brushed lightly to raise the unwanted fiber ends.
Then the fabric is singed with or passed over heated copper plates or open gas
flames. The fiber ends burn off.
The fabric is moved very rapidly, and only the fiber ends are destroyed.
As soon as the fabric leaves the singeing area, it enters a water bath or desizing
bath. This stops any singeing afterglow or sparks that might damage the cloth.
The fabric to be singed should be dry as wet fabric tend to scorch more readily than
dry.
Uneven singeing may cause streaks on fabric or bubbles when the fabric is finished.
Improper singeing may lead to loss of 75 % loss in tensile strength loss in warp
direction.
The fabric should not contain any acid releasing salt,which may release acid on
heating and tender the fabric.
Singeing may cause hardening of the size thus leading to difficulty in its removal.
The burning characteristics of fibers must be taken into account when this process is
applied, as heat-sensitive fibers melt, forming tiny balls on the surface of the fabric.
These balls interfere with dye absorption, so that, as a general rule, heat sensitive
fibers would be singed after dyeing or printing.
Fabrics, which have been singed, soil less easily than un-singed fabrics.
The risk of pilling, especially with synthetics and their blends, is reduced in case
of singed fabrics.
Singed fabrics allow printing of fine intricate patterns with high clarity and detail.
The risk of skittery dyeings with singed articles dyed in dark shades is
considerably reduced, as randomly protruding fibres are removed in singeing which
could cause diffused reflection of light.
All raw textile materials, when they are in natural form, are known as 'greige' material
(pronounced grey-sh). This greige material will have its natural color, odor and impurities
that are not suitable for clothing materials. Not only the natural impurities will remain on
the greige material but also the add-ons that were made during its cultivation, growth and
manufacture in the form of pesticides, fungicides, worm killers, sizes, lubricants, etc. The
removal of these natural coloring matters and add-ons during the previous state of
manufacturing is called scouring and bleaching.
Scouring is the first process carried out with or without chemicals, at room temperature
or at suitable higher temperatures with the addition of suitable wetting agents, alkali and
so on. Scouring removes all the waxes, pectins and makes the textile material hydrophilic
or water absorbent. See also scouring wool.
Fig.3.4 Scouring and Bleaching machine
Bleaching
The next process of decolorization of greige material into a suitable material for next
processing is called bleaching. Bleaching of textiles can be classified into oxidative
bleaching and reductive bleaching.
3.3.1 Types
Oxidative bleaching
Generally oxidative bleachings are carried out using sodium hypochlorite, sodium
chlorite or sulfuric acid. Natural fibres like cotton, ramie, jute, wool, bamboo are all
generally bleached with oxidative methods.
Reductive bleaching
Optical whiteners
After scouring and bleaching, optical brightening agents (OBAs) are applied to make the
textile material appear a more brilliant white. These OBAs are available in different tints
such as blue, violet and red
3.4 Mercerization
Mercerization, the treatment of cotton with a strong caustic alkaline solution in order to
improve the luster, hand and other properties, was named after its discoverer, John
Mercer, and has been in use for some time. It has been seeing an increase in application
recently.
Recently, there has been wide use of so-called alkaline reduction processing, which treats
polyester with a strong caustic alkaline solution to dissolve and remove the surface film
in order to improve the hand.
The methods and effects involved in the processing of cotton and polyester are different,
but, both involve treatment with a strong alkaline solution before dyeing to improve the
properties of the fiber, and so both can be considered together to be alkaline treatments.
Furthermore, in the handling of blended and union weaves of polyester and cotton, both
fibers can be treated effectively with alkalis at the same time, and so it is important that
the two treatments be given equal consideration in such a case.
Alternatively, after swelling, if the alkali is rinsed off when the fiber is in its shrunk state,
an increase in luster may not be discernable, but the fibers will fix in that shrunk state,
thus giving good elasticity to external stress.
The former is known as tension mercerization and is often simply called mercerization,
while the latter is referred to as slack mercerization. Due to considerations of cost and
efficacy, only caustic soda is used as the alkali in industry.
Improved luster
Increased ability to absorb dye
Improved strength/elongation
Improved smoothness
Improved hand
Appearance is improved through increased luster, a deepening of the color and the
production of a transparent look, the feel of the fabric is improved through a resulting soft
hand and improved smoothness, and strength and elongation are also improved, along
with the addition of good stretching ability. The treatment and handling can be adjusted to
fit different requirements, thus allowing for the best application of the results of different
processing.
3.5 Dyeing
The most commonly used processes for imparting color to cotton are piece dyeing and
yarn dyeing.
In piece dyeing, which is used primarily for fabrics that are to be a solid color, a
continuous length of dry cloth is passed full-width through a trough of hot dye solution.
The cloth then goes between padded rollers that squeeze in the color evenly and removes
the excess liquid. In one variation of this basic method, the fabric, in a rope-like coil, is
processed on a reel that passes in and out of a dye beck or vat.
Yarn dyeing, which occurs before the cloth is woven or knitted, is used to produce
gingham checks, plaids, woven stripes and other special effects. Blue dyed warp yarns,
for example, are combined with white filling yarns in denim construction.
One of the most commonly used yarn dyeing methods is package dyeing. In this system,
yarn is wound on perforated cylinders or packages and placed on vertical spindles in a
round dyeing machine.
Dye solution is forced alternately from the outside of the packages inward and from the
inside out under pressure.
Computers are used increasingly in dyeing processes to formulate and match colors with
greater speed and accuracy.
3.6 Printing
Printing colored designs on cotton cloth is similar to printing on paper.Long runs of the
same fabric design are produced on a roller print machine operating at speeds between 50
to 100 yards a minute. As many as of 10 different colors can be printed in one continuous
operation.
Fig.3.7 Rotary Machine
A typical printing machine has a large padded drum or cylinder, which is surrounded by a
series of copper rollers, each with its own dye trough and doctor blade that scrapes away
excess dye. The number of rollers varies according to the fabric design, since each color
in the design is etched on a separate roller. As the cloth moves between the rotating drum
and rollers under great pressure, it picks up color from the engraved area of each roller in
sequence. The printed cloth is dried immediately and conveyed to an oven that sets the
dye.
In flat bed screen-printing, the fabric design is reproduced on fine mesh screens, one for
each
color. On each screen, the areas in the design that are not to be penetrated by the dye are
covered with lacquer or some other dye-resistant coating. The screens are coated with dye
on the back and mounted in the proper sequence above a flat bed. As a belt carries the
fabric along from screen to screen, a squeegee or roller presses the dye through the open
area of the screen onto the fabric.
The new flat bed machines can have speeds of up to 1,200 yards per hour for a fabric
with a 36-inch design repeat.
Faster by far are the recently developed rotary screen printing machines with production
speeds of up to 3,500 yards an hour. The system combines roller and screen printing,
utilizing perforated cylinders instead of flat screens. The color paste is fed inside the
cylinders and a small metal roller forces the color through the pores of the cylinder onto
the fabric which is moving continuously under the cylinders. As many as 16 colors can be
printed on one fabric using this method. Use of this technique is increasing since the
screens or cylinders can be produced less expensively than the engraved copper rollers
used in roller printing.
Fig.3.9 colour sheet
3.7 finishing
Finishing, as the term implies, is the final step in fabric production. Hundreds of finishes
can be applied to textiles, and the methods of application are as varied as the finishes.
Cotton fabrics are probably finished in more different ways than any other type of fabrics.
Some finishes change the look and feel of the cotton fabric, while others add special
characteristics such as durable press, water repellency, flame resistance, shrinkage control
and others. Several different finishes may be applied to a single fabric.
In the merchandising, we study that buyer are giving the design to the company. With the
help of designer, all the designs are converted into the Photoshop and CAD file.
Merchandiser approves the entire CAD file by the buyer. Then merchandiser work on one
sample, according to the buyer requirements. Then, sample are approved by the buyer
and make finial inspection for the bulk production, shipment and In surface
ornamentation, I study all the research paper on surface ornamentation, merchandising
and printing. After that, the company gives inspiration to me, according to inspiration I
make design according it in printing.
Geometrics once again take on a retro sensibility and have complexity added whether
it be created by combining colors, altering sizes or making them appear to be three-
dimensional. Patchworking was also of importance, as well as geos printed on a faux
texture.
THEME BOARD
Fig.4.1 Theme board
COLOUR BOARD
COLLOURS
Four colours :- Blue, orange, Black and White
SIZE:- 12*12
Pantone no. 14-1225
16-1356
19-4049
Fig.4.4 Napkins
Fig.4.5 Napkins
Fig.4.6 Apparel
Fig.4.7 Coaster
Land of the dreamer is this season’s girlie trend, as swans, birds and bugs are the new
“animals” of interest. There is a slight surrealist viewpoint as layered graphics and
humanized creatures add excitement.
INSPIRATION BOARD
(2) cushion
(3) cushion
(4) cushion
(5)cushion
(6) cushion
4.4 PROJECT UNDERTAKEN-3
• THEME: Tradillusation
• COLLECTION: Cushions
• NO. OF PRODUCTS: 6
• FABRIC USED: Lycra
• TECHNIQUE USED: Screen printing
• CUSHION SIZE: 12”*12”
• COLORS: 2 ( Peach and Black)
To design and developed collection of cushion for the upcoming season
Autumn Winter2017/18 for the brand kilol taking inspiration from the
Indian Acoma Pueblo pottery. Following the process on how pottery is
been done and how its decorated with different kinds of colors and pattern.
Tradillusation made by two words traditional and illusion in which
tradition means love of labor. Motifs which is used by pottery in their pots.
THEME BOARD
Fig.4.11 Theme Board
INSPIRATION BOARD
Fig.4.14 cushion
(2) cushion
(3)cushion
(4) Cushion
(5) Cushion
(6)Cushion
5.1 Conclusion
Because the period of exploration for this thesis was too short, I couldn't use all the
techniques and materials skillfully enough. My work was not totally as complete as I
would have intended, but I have been very excited by the results. It is expected that I will
overcome the limit of my expression and I feel that the possibilities are unlimited. Also I
have been enlarging my direction and my future. I have just begun the process of
researching and developing this future. This graduate study has given me the opportunity
to create, explore and expand my aesthetic and working experience. I will continue my
work when I return home. It has been a difficult challenge but a very positive one, and I
wish to thank everyone for giving me this opportunity.
5.2 Limitation
This section describes the limitations of the present research work and these
1. The present work has considered only one tool material (tungsten carbide insert) for
the four different work materials. Inclusion of different tool materials would have lead to
various combinations of tool and work materials.
2. The machining experiments have been conducted for three machining parameters at
three levels.
3. The responses such as surface roughness and flank wear are only considered for the
performance study in finish turning and facing processes.
4. The machining processes are intermittently stopped and tool wear measurements are
carried out.
2. Surface design of textiles and textile structural design. Surface design including
coloring of the textile surface, embroidery work, and printing various designs on the
textile surface. Structural design includes the design of the structure of the textile to be
manufactured.
www.google.co.in/images
The world of ornaments book
www.homesrusgroup.com
www.tradeindia.com
www.be-mm.com
http://www.azmlstudio.com/philosophy.asp
http:/www.the freedictionary.com/minimalist
http:/en.wikipedia.org
http:/design-seeds.com/index.php
APPENDIX – 1