CATTLEYA (cat-LAY-a) - Cattleyas have earned the reputation as the "Queen of Orchids" and are known to the public

as the
ultimate in floral corsages. While some naturally occurring species are offered by growers, the most popular plants are man-made
hybrids derived from combining Cattleyas with some of their close relatives to produce a wide range of colors, sizes and forms.

The Cattleya is a sympodial orchid which means that it grows pseudobulbs along a central
horizontal rhizome. Each year a Cattleya orchid will grow one or more new pseudobulbs from
which the bloom for that season will come. A Cattleya will not bloom on old pseudobulbs yet
those pseudobulbs will provide strength for the plant. In the seasonal bloom cycle of a Cattleya
we are looking for the emergence and growth of new pseudobulbs, bloom sheaths to appear
from the top of the pseudobulb, and blooms to appear from the sheath. This cycle is illustrated
below.

The Cattleya is often in bloom for Mother's Day in the spring but many bloom in the fall as well.
As the pseudobulbs on our Cattleya mature we begin to look for the bloom sheath that emerges
from where the leaf meets the top of the pseudobulb. The sheath will cover the developing
bloom as it matures. Eventually the bloom spikes push their way through the covering sheath
and develop into flowers. In some cases a sheath may form without buds or the buds may
appear much later. Usually the developing buds can be seen, or at least felt, through the
sheath.

As the pseudobulb matures the outer paper-thin layer turns brown and/or white and may begin
to peel. This layer is called a 'sarong' and it is perfectly fine to let it be or to peel it off as you
prefer. Peeling off the sarong eliminates one place where bugs may try to hide.

In some cases it can be beneficial to open the top of the sheath so that the developing bloom
does not rot from excessive moisture within the sheath.

When the time is right the developing buds will push their way up through the sheath extending
upward into a cluster of fragrant blooms.
Temperature: The ideal day temperature is 75-85 degrees F., while the ideal night temperature is 60-65
degrees F. Occasional temperature extremes are tolerated if exposure is not prolonged.

Light: Cattleyas and their relatives require a good amount of light. They enjoy full sun in the morning, but
will require shading from about 11am-3pm; less shading will be necessary in the late afternoon. Their
leaves should be a light green color, and a darker green color indicates too little sun.

Water: Basically, cattleyas grow best when their potting medium becomes dry in between waterings.
These plants are epiphytes in nature, (i.e. growing on top of trees) and are used to drying out between
the rains of their natural habitat.

Repot: Cattleyas should not be repotted unless the plant have outgrown the pot (every 2 or 3 years) or
when the potting medium begins to deteriorate. Or when the mixture become sour, does not drain rapidly
and is invaded by snow mold or shows green mold on the surface. A coarse medium such as medium-
grade Fir-bark, or coarse-grade Fir-bark will work well.

Feeding: High-nitrogen fertilizers (25-9-9) can be used year-round at one teaspoon per gallon of water.
Feed once a month.

Cutting Dead Flower Spike: When the last flower drops, cut your flower spike all the way down the
stem. Apply a pinch of cinnamon powder or melted candle to seal the wound. Continue caring for it and
wait for a possible rebloom.
Coelogyne Burfordiense is a really big robust plant in Coelogyne terms, and was formally bred
and registered in England in 1911 by Sir Trevor Lawrence, despite the fact that it has been
found occurring naturally. It was produced from pod parent Coelogyne asperata and Coelogyne
pandurata.

Over the intervening 100 years this hybrid has remained common in collections. It has very
large displays of arching to pendulous spikes with huge light green flowers. This hybrid certainly
makes an eye-catching display.

Watering Coelogyne orchids

How to water your Coelogyne orchids depend large on whether they need full rest or
only partial rest during the resting season. For most species, the resting season takes
place between late October and late March. During this period, your Coelogyne
orchids should be watered sparingly and some species should not be watered at all.
(This will also depend on the air humidity in the cool room where you have placed
your orchids for their resting period.)

During the growth season, i.e. from late March to late October, Coelogyne orchids
need a lot of water and should be watered once a week or every 10th day depending
on the temperature. A high temperature will increase the need for water. Start
watering your Coelogyne orchids when the new growth is at least ½ inch (slightly
over 1 cm) high.

Nutrients for Coelogyne orchids

Coelogyne orchids are moderate feeders that will appreciate fertilizers from April to
September. You can use ordinary general purpose plant food if you mix it to ¼ of the
normal strength and flush the pot well every fourth week with water only to remove
excess nutrients and deposited salts. From late August to late September you should
instead use a higher potash fertilizer since this will make it easier for the bulbs from
this year to harden and develop more and larger flowers for the coming winter or
spring (depending on species).

Coelogyne orchid temperature

A majority of the Coelogyne orchids are used to cool growing conditions since they
are native to the cool mountains of India and the Himalayas, but some prefer
intermediate conditions instead. There recommended temperature range for
Coelogyne orchids is 40-80 degrees F (8-25 degrees C).

Coelogyne orchid light

Coelogyne orchids thrive when the light levels are high since this makes it possible
for them to store a lot of energy in their pseudobulbs. Without sufficient light, it can
be impossible for the orchid to grow well formed and compact. You should however
protect your Coelogyne orchid from strong sunlight if you place it close to the glass
since its leaves might be burned. You can for instance add a mesh curtain to make the
light somewhat milder.

Potting medium for a Coelogyne orchid

The recommended potting medium for a Coelogyne orchid is medium grade compost.
Make sure that the potting medium is well draining, since a soggy medium can lead to
root destruction for Coelogyne orchids.

Repotting a Coelogyne orchid

You can repot your Coelogyne orchid in April when the blossoming is over, or allow
the orchid to grow into a large plant and only repot it every second or third year.
Cymbidium Orchid Care: The Basics

Cymbidium (sym-BID-ee-um) orchids are often used in cut flower displays as well
as in corsages. Cymbidium orchids are often called “boat orchids” and the flowers
are usually large in size and display a patterned lip. The flowers can last anywhere
from 8-10 weeks and they come in almost all colors except blue.

Cymbidium spikes bloom only one time, so once the blooms have dropped you will
not be able to encourage a rebloom from the spike as you can with other types of

orchids. They typically bloom in the early spring

although sometimes you can see flowers beginning to bloom in October or bloom all
the way until June. Cymbidiumorchids are popular due to their ability to thrive in
cooler, drier conditions. If you live in an area with mild temperatures and no frost,
you may be able to successfully growCymbidium orchids outside.

Water Requirements

A Cymbidium orchid should be watered in the morning using tepid water. This will
give the orchid adequate time to dry before the lower night temperature sets in.
While the orchid is in active growth, it is recommended that you keep the orchid in
slightly damp conditions but never let the medium become soggy.

Watering frequency – as covered in this article about watering orchids – can be

determined by a few different things. You will want to water more frequently during
the warmer months, at least once a week, and less frequently in the cooler months.
Once the pseudobulbs have finished growing, in the late summer, you can reduce
your watering schedule although it is important to not let the orchid dry out
completely.

Light Requirements

As covered in this article about orchids care and light, Cymbidiums need medium to
bright light intensity in order to thrive, and do best with as much light as possible.
If your Cymbidium orchid is receiving the optimal amount of light the leaves will be
a yellow-green color. Too much light will cause the leaves to become yellow, and
too little light will cause the leaves to become a very dark green color.

The best place to grow your Cymbidium orchid indoors in on an east facing
windowsill, although a shaded south facing window will also work. If you choose to
grow your orchid outside it is important that you give your Cymbidium shelter from
direct sun although not in a completely shaded area.

Temperature Requirements

As discussed in this orchid plant care article on temperature, during the summer
and fall, day temperatures should be between 75°F to 85°F (23.9°C to 29.4°C),
and night temperatures should be between 50°F to 60°F (10°C to 15.6°C). In order
to initiate the growth of flower spikes it is necessary to have a nighttime
temperature difference of about 20 degrees in the fall. Cooler night temperatures
are also needed while the plant is in bud. During the winter, day temperatures
should be between 65°F to 75°F (18.3°C to 23.9°) and night temperatures should
be between 45°F to 55°F (7.2°C to 12.8°C).

Humidity Requirements

As covered in this “humidity” article on how to care for orchids, Cymbidium orchids
require humidity levels of 40-60 percent in the winter when the orchid may be in
bud. If you need to increase the humidity level in your orchids growing environment
you can do so by using a specially made humidity tray or simply placing a
humidifier close by the orchid. Remember, if you have high humidity levels it is
equally important to maintain proper air movement to prevent orchid disease.

Fertilizer Requirements

When the Cymbidium is in active growth, you will want to fertilize regularly. An
orchid fertilizer solution of (20-20-20) is recommended. During the winter months,
applying fertilizer once a month is sufficient. It is important to remember to never
add fertilizer to an orchid that is dry because you can cause severe damage to the
roots and leaves.

Potting Requirements

Cymbidium orchids should be repotted in a course mix every two years or once the
potting medium remains soggy and no longer drains properly. You will want to
repot during the spring after the orchids flowers have bloomed. Before repotting,
you should trim away the damaged roots with a sterile cutting tool.

The best type of pot to use for a Cymbidium orchid is a clay pot. This is because
water evaporates from clay pots faster and this is better for the dryer conditions
that Cymbidiums require. Cymbidiums can be divided once the orchid has bloomed
and new growth is starting to show. Each division needs at least three to five
pseudobulbs.

Another way to propagate a Cymbidium is to use the backbulbs which are the older
pseudobulbs that have little to no leaves. Simply remove these with a sterile cutting
tool and strip off any leaves that may still be on the backbulb and pot in a small
container. You will need to keep the backbulbs moist and place in an area that is
fairly shady. You should begin to see new growth and roots appear in only a few
short months, and in as little as two to three years, a backbulb can grow into a full
sized plant.
Epidendrum (eh-pee-DEN-drum) orchids are one of the earliest established genera of
orchids with well over 1,000 different species. Some species are found growing at sea
level, while others thrive in higher elevations up in the mountains.

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Most Epidendrums have reed-like stems that

are fairly similar in appearance to the Dendrobiumorchid’s cane stems. These
inflorescences are long and produce brightly colored bunches of flowers in shades of
orange, red, yellow, lavender, or fuchsia. In almost all species of Epidendrums, the
blooms have a fringed lip that’s fused to the column along its entire length. The blooms
are sometimes solid in color and other times are marked with spots or streaks.
As mentioned earlier, there are over 1,000 types of Epidendrum orchids and hybrids
and they vary in their growing requirements. For this reason, it is important that you
get detailed care information for your certain type ofEpidendrum because the care can
greatly vary depending on the type you have. The requirements mentioned below apply
to two very popular orchids; Epidendrumradicans and Epidendrum ibaguense. If you
have a different species, you’ll want to find out where it grows in the wild and then
adjust its care accordingly.

Water Requirements
Watering frequency – as covered in this article about watering orchids – can be
determined by a few different things. Epidendrum orchids should be watered regularly
and abundantly. As a rule of thumb, you will want to water more frequently
(approximately every 4-5 days) during the warmer months and less frequently (once a
week) in the cooler months. You can help encourage bud growth by withholding water
for about a month, however, make sure that your orchid remains happy.

Light Requirements
As covered in this article about orchids care and light, Epidendrum orchids thrive with
medium to high light conditions. If you orchid is receiving the ideal amount of sunlight
the foliage will be grassy green in color. If your plant is receiving too much light the
leaves can start to turn a brownish-bronze color, and not enough light will cause the
orchid to become very tall and will keep the plant from producing flowers. A great
inside location to place your Epidendrum is on an eastern facing windowsill. Remember
to not let the orchid receive direct sunlight because this could cause the orchid to get
sunburned leaves.

Temperature Requirements
Epidendrums are intermediate to warm growers, depending on the particular variety.
Those that come from higher elevations tend to do best with temperatures on the
cooler side, and those that come from warmer regions will need warmer temperatures.
Generally speaking, the average daytime temperature should range from 60°F to 90°F
(15.6°C to 32.2°C) and average nighttime temperature should be between 50°F to
70°F (10C to 21.1°C). These orchids can even tolerate near-freezing temperatures for
short periods of time. For more information on orchid plant care in regards to
temperature, check out this article.

Humidity Requirements
As covered in this “humidity” article on how to care for orchids, the ideal humidity
range to grow your Epidendrums is somewhere above 50% humidity. Remember to
have adequate air movement for your orchids by opening a window and letting in the
breeze or by placing an oscillating fan nearby. This will help mimic the breeze that the
orchid would receive in nature.

Fertilizer Requirements
When Epidendrum orchids are in full growth they should be fertilized regularly. A
balanced fertilizer (20-20-20) is recommended at a half-strength solution every time
you water. During the winter, when the plant is not in active growth, you will want to
cut back on fertilizing frequency. Each month you will also want to remove the buildup
of fertilizer and salts by running plain water through the pot.

Potting Requirements
Epidendrum orchids should be potted with a medium that allows for good drainage. A
recommendation is to mix both a fine and medium-grade bark with perlite or coconut
chips. Epidendrums can also grow very well attached to a mount, in raised planter
beds, or outside in tubs if you live in an area that doesn’t experience frost. Once the
plants begin to grow taller you should stake them for support.
Lycastes are deciduous in various degrees, from the strongly deciduous, yellow-
flowered species like Lycaste aromatica that flowers from leafless pseudobulbs to the
evergreen types like Lycaste skinneri with pseudobulbs that retain their leaves at flowering.
This genus produces large, long-lasting, showy, triangular flowers that are waxy. The plants
are distinctive for their roundish pseudobulbs and broad, plicate (pleated) leaves. Culture for
the hybrid genus Angulocaste (Lycaste Anguloa) follows the culture for the Lycaste parent.

Light requirements vary. Deciduous species require light conditions as for cattleyas —
2,000 to 4,000 foot-candles or 50 to 70 percent shade. More light is usually provided as new
growths form pseudoulbs. Evergreen species grow best with less light — 1,500 to 2,000
foot-candles or 60 to 80 percent shade.

Temperatures for the evergreen species should be fairly constant and never hot. Nights of
60 F and days of 75 to 80 F are desirable. The deciduous species of lycaste can tolerate a
wider range, up to 95 F during the day and down to 50 F at night when dormant in the
winter.

Water should be applied freely during active growth (usually summer). The potting medium
should begin to dry out between waterings. Deciduous species should be kept almost
completely dry when leafless; evergreen species should be kept only slightly drier than
normal after pseudobulbs form. Water should be kept off the leaves, and especially out of
the new growths, to prevent rot or leaf spotting, which disfigure otherwise handsome plants.

Humidity should be maintained at 40 to 70 percent. Deciduous species need less humidity

when dormant. Brisk air circulation will help prevent damage to leaves by leafspot fungi.

Fertilize regularly and heavily when plants are actively growing. A higher nitrogen
formulation (such as 30-10-10) is recommended during active growth (usually summer);
some growers spread blood meal on the top of the potting medium as new pseudobulbs
form, though in inexperienced hands this can be dangerous to the plant. In autumn, or as
growths mature and pseudobulbs are produced, fertilizer is reduced or switched to a high-
phosphorus (such as 10-30-20) formulation to stimulate flower production.

Potting is best when new growth starts, usually in spring. A fine-grade potting medium is
often used; fir bark and perlite (3:1) is a common, fast-draining mix. When repotting, split
plants into no less than two pseudobulbs per pot and choose a container to allow for two
years of growth. The plant should be positioned in the vessel so that the newest growths
are farthest away from the edge of the pot, allowing the maximum number of new growths
without crowding the pot. Spread the roots over a cone of potting medium and fill in around
the roots with potting medium to the junction of the roots and the pseudobulbs. Push the
medium firmly around the roots. Keep humidity high and the potting medium on the dry side
until new roots form.
Odontoglossum
These high-altitude orchids from the New World Tropics flourish where cool temperatures
prevail year round. Odontoglossums are known for their striking sprays of flowers. Culture is
similar for hybrids in this group, some being Odontonia, Odontioda and Vuylstekeara.

Light should be bright. In a greenhouse, levels from 2,000 to 5,000 foot-candles are
acceptable as long as heat levels can be kept down. If summer day temperatures are high,
light levels can be reduced to cool the growing area. While these are not generally
considered to be good houseplants, they may succeed at an east window or a shaded
south window; western exposures are usually too warm in most climates.

Temperatures must be exacting for these plants. Day temperatures below 75 to 80 F are
almost essential year round. Night temperatures of 55 to 58 F are best. Short periods of
warmer day temperatures may be tolerated, especially if humidity and air movement are at
optimal levels, nights are cool and the plants have healthy root systems.

Water should be plentiful, coupled with perfect drainage. The potting medium should just
begin to dry before watering. This may mean watering every two to seven days, depending
on weather, pot size and material, and type of potting medium. Accordion-pleating on
leaves is a symptom of insufficient water or humidity. As with other orchids from high-rainfall
areas, odontoglossums are particularly sensitive to poor-quality water, which will give poor
roots and leaf-tip burn.

Humidity, coupled with moving air, should be ideally 40 to 80 percent. Evaporative cooling
in a greenhouse increases humidity while cooling the air and is highly recommended for
these orchids in most climates. Fogging the air or dampening the floor with water also helps
cool and humidify. In the home, set the plants on trays above moist pebbles, with the pots
resting above the water.

Fertilize regularly with a dilute solution while plants are actively growing. Applications of 30-
10-10 formulations twice a month are ideal for plants in a bark-based potting medium. A 20-
20-20 formulation should be used on other media. If weather is overcast, applications once
a month are sufficient. Some growers use a high-phosphorus 10-30-20 blossom-booster
formulation as plants approach flowering to increase flower count and substance.

Potting should be done as new growth becomes about half mature, which is usually in the
spring or autumn. These plants need to be underpotted, so when repotting leave only
enough room for one to two years of new growth. Underpotting also enables the grower to
provide the more frequent watering these plants need as the smaller pots dry more quickly
and evenly when filled with roots. A fine-grade potting medium with excellent drainage is
required; because the medium is kept moist, annual or biannual repotting is normal. Spread
the roots over a cone of potting medium and fill in around the roots with more medium. Firm
the potting mix around the roots. Keep humidity high and the pot dry until new roots form.
 Miltnia/Pansy orchids
These striking orchids, which are also known as pansy orchids, owing to their similarity to
garden pansies, are enjoying increasing popularity. Miltoniopsis are cool-growing orchids
that originate in the higher elevations of the Andes in Colombia, Panama and Ecuador. The
warmer-growing species, properly miltonias, originate from the Minas Gerais area of Brazil
and more closely resemble large-flowered oncidiums. Their flowers can be brilliantly
patterned.

Light should be relatively shaded. Direct sunlight burns the thin leaves within a short period
of time. However, the warmer growing types prefer more light than their cooler-growing
relatives. The cool-growing species need approximately 1,200 foot-candles, while the
warmer-growing species require closer to 2,000 foot-candles.

Temperature is critical for the cool-growing plants. Unless temperatures are kept under 80
F, they may not flower. The minimum temperature is 50 to 55 F. Thus, these are really
better thought of as intermediate growers because they need intermediate temperatures
throughout the year - not too hot, not too cold. The warmer growers will take temperatures
over 90 F as long as humidity levels of 70 to 75 percent, or higher, are maintained. The
minimum temperature is 60 F.

Water must be plentiful and the medium must drain perfectly. In their native habitat, the
plants are drenched almost daily and, because of this, they are intolerant of salt buildup, so
leaching every fourth or fifth watering is important when growing in pots. When they are not
getting enough water or humidity, the leaves have a tendency to grow with accordion-like
pleats. The warmer-growing miltonias should be grown like cattleyas; allow them to
approach dryness between waterings. They also tend to be slightly more tolerant of salt
buildup than their Colombian cousins so they can dry more between waterings.
Humidity must be at least 70 percent because of the plants' need for abundant water. Less
humidity will stress the plants and can lead to susceptibility to disease, though too much
humidity is worse than too little.

Fertilize at the same level as other orchids: half-strength, balanced fertilizer every two
weeks. This can be reduced by half during overcast weather or in winter. A 10-30-20
blossom-booster formulation is beneficial in early spring when plants approach their
flowering period.

Potting should be done after flowering when the new growth is starting. Miltoniopsis should
be repotted every year as they are intolerant of stale conditions. The cool growers
(miltoniopsis) do well in small pots. The warmer growers (miltonias) tend to have a relatively
elongated creeping habit and, therefore, do better mounted. Any potting mix suitable for fine
roots such as 70 percent seedling bark with charcoal and perlite or a mix of 70 percent tree
fern and 30 percent chopped sphagnum is adequate. Mounts may be cork, tree fern or
other hard wood. They should be longer than wide. For some reason, shallow pans work
better than deep pots.

Temperature: The ideal day temperature is 75-80 degrees F., while the ideal night temperature is 60-65
degrees F. Occasional temperature extremes are tolerated if exposure is not prolonged. As long as you
keep the temperature reasonable, you should have a healthy plant.

Light: Bright diffused light is necessary to bring Miltonia into bloom; this can include a little sun (not direct
sunlight) for up to two hours a day.

Water: Unlike some orchids that require a drying out period, Miltonia grow throughout the entire year and
must be kept evenly moist. Drench the plant in the early morning and let them dry out before nightfall.
Once a week watering during the winter and twice a week during summer is normally sufficient.
Repot: Miltonia are considered epiphytes, which means that a general bark or orchid mix should suit
them well. Repot your Miltonia at least once every 2 years or when the potting medium begins to decay.
See our ESSENTIALS for more details.

Feeding: High-nitrogen fertilizers (25-9-9) can be used year-round at one teaspoon per gallon of water.
Feed once a month.

This is an extraordinarily large and diverse New World genus with an equally diverse
number of habitats. Oncidiums may originate anywhere from sea level in the tropics to the
high elevations of the Andes. This obviously makes cultural generalizations difficult. More
specific instructions may be available from the grower. Some genera included are Aspasia,
Brassia, warm- growing miltonias (often called the Brazilian type) and many of their hybrids.

Light needs can vary from bright to nearly full direct sun depending on the species. Most
will thrive with one to several hours of sun a day. Generally, thicker leaved plants, such as
"mule-ear" and "equitant" oncidiums, can stand more light. In a greenhouse, 20 to 60
percent shade is required, or about 2,000 to 6,000 foot-candles, depending on the plants. In
the home, east, south or west windows are ideal. Many types of oncidiums will grow under
artificial light: Four fluorescent tubes supplemented with incandescent bulbs and placed 6 to
12 inches over the plants are necessary for proper growth. Metalhalide and sodium-vapor
bulbs also provide sufficient light without needing to be so close to the plants.

Temperatures for this group are generally considered intermediate to warm: 55 to 60 F at

night, and 80 to 85 F during the day. Temperatures up to 95 to 100 F are tolerated if
humidity and air movement are increased as the temperatures rise, a good general rule in
any case.

Water requirements vary with the type of plant. Generally, plants with large fleshy roots or
leaves need less-frequent watering than thin-leaved or thin-rooted plants. Watering should
be thorough, and the medium should dry at least halfway through the pot before watering
again. This may be every two to 10 days depending on weather, pot size and material, type
of orchid and type of potting medium. Plants not actively growing should be watered less;
many species have winter rest periods.

Humidity should be between 30 and 60 percent. Many oncidiums require less humidity
than other orchids. Most greenhouses have adequate humidity. In the home, placing the
plants above moist pebbles in trays is ideal.

Fertilize regularly while plants are actively growing. Applications of 30-10-10 formulations
twice a month are ideal for plants in a bark-based potting medium. A 20-20-20 formulation
should be used on plants in other media or on slabs. If skies are cloudy, applications once a
month are sufficient.

Potting should be done when new growth is about one-half mature, which is usually in the
spring. Fine-grade potting media are usually used with fine-rooted plants and coarser mixes
with large-rooted plants; the standard size is medium grade. The plant should be positioned
in the pot so that the newest growth is farthest away from the edge of the pot, allowing the
maximum number of new growths before crowding the pot. Spread the roots over a cone of
potting medium and fill in around the roots. Firm the medium around the roots. Keep
humidity high and the potting medium dry until new roots form. Equitant and mule-ear
oncidiums, as well as other fleshy-leaved or large-rooted plants, can be grown on slabs of
cork bark or tree fern or in pots filled with a coarse, well-drained medium such as charcoal.
This allows the drying between waterings that these types need.
The Paphiopedilum or Lady's Slipper is by far one of the most unique and
intriguing of all orchids. Its exotic, wax-like, richly colored blooms last for weeks
and sometimes months. Lady's Slippers have no pseudobulbs but feature
attractive, glossy leaves. After leaves are fully formed, the flower stem rises from
the center of the new growth to form one of the most unusual flowers in the
world. Best of all, they are ideal for home growing.

Temperature: Paphiopedilum are divided into two temperature groups: warm and cool growers. The
attractive mottled-leaf types come from the temperate zones and do best with a night temperature not
below 60 degrees F. (preferably 65 degrees F.), and a day temperature of 75-85 degrees F. The solid
green-leafed types come from the higher, cooler altitudes. They require a night temperature of 50-60
degrees F. and a day temperature of 70-80 degrees F.

Water: Paphiopedilum must be kept constantly moist or damp, but not soggy. Check frequently below the
surface to determine the need for water. Normal watering intervals are between seven and ten days.

Light: Place in any bright window but protect from mid-day sun. Leaves should be a medium-green color.
If they are too pale or yellowish, the plant could be getting too much light. (Approximately the same light
intensity as African Violets is preferred.)

Feeding: Good results may be obtained by using a high nitrogen fertilizer (25-9-9) all year round. Feed
once a month at one-third of a teaspoon or less to a gallon of water. Paphiopedilum are sensitive to
fertilizer burn.

Repot: Paphiopedilum should be repotted every two to three years with a fresh, well draining potting
medium, such as fine-grade orchid bark or Orchid Mix. It is important that the base of the growth be
potted no deeper than 1/2" in the medium.
PHALAENOPSIS

PHALAENOPSIS (fal-en-OPP-sis) - These plants are commonly referred to as "Moth

Orchids" and are considered among the easiest of the orchid family to care for as well as
the most recognizable. The long-lasting flowers bloom perfectly for up to three months,
providing you ample return on your investment. The flowering intervals vary with each
plant, and you may be treated to a bloom as often as twice a year. Phalaenopsis have
become one of the most popular variety of orchids because of their low maintenance and
delicate balance of poise and elegance.

Light:

Medium to bright (indirect) light. Avoid direct sunlight, as leaves burn easily. If leaves turn yellow or
splotchy, plant is getting too much light.

Temperature:

Day: 68-85° F; Night: 65–75°F. Plant should have even temperature if possible, especially when in
bud. Chilly temperatures or drafty areas can cause flowers and buds to drop.

Water:
Water Phalaenopsis about once a week: it’s best to allow potting mix to almost dry out between
watering. Check the medium with your finger - if you feel moisture do not water. Do not let stand in
water.
Fertilizer:
When your orchid is blooming, fertilizer is not needed. If you want to fertilize, we recommend a
balanced fertilizer like 12-12-12 or similar ratio. Apply Phalaenopsis fertilizer at one-quarter strength
with every other watering. When blooming is desired, a high phosphorus fertilizer (such as 10-30-20)
can be applied to promote blooming.
Growth:

Orchids can double in size in a year with the correct growing conditions

Blooming:

Blooms last from a few weeks to 3 months, and re-bloom in cool temps up to 3 times a year.
Phalaenopsis blooms from January through May.

Planting Outside:

Only in subtropical climates

Vanda Orchid Care: The Basics
The Vanda (VAN-dah) orchid’s natural habitat is tropical and for this
reason Vanda orchids require a very high level of humidity. Most often Vandas are
grown in wooden slat hanging baskets with little to no potting medium.Vanda spikes
normally produce 6-8 beautiful flowers that can typically grow to be six inches in
diameter. The flowers themselves come in an array of colors. Some are solid in color
while others have a beautiful pattern. Vanda orchids most often bloom between spring
and fall but can bloom at any time of year.

Light is a crucial factor in blooming most vandaceous plants. There are three types of
vandas: strap-leaved, semi-terete and terete. The first type has broader, flat leaves, while
terete types have round, pencil-shaped leaves. The semi-teretes are hybrids between the
two, with an intermediate leaf shape. Terete types need full sun, and are best grown in high-
light climates. In a greenhouse, give the plants about 25 to 35 percent shade, less in winter
if overcast. Leaves should be a medium green, not dark green. In warm, bright climates,
you can grow any type of Vanda outside (if warm) with partial shade for strap-leaved types
and semi-teretes (especially in midday in summer) or inside (when cold) in a bright, south
window. In climates where winters are overcast, try ascocendas. Grow them outside in
summer and in full sun inside during the winter. Be careful to aclimatize plants to avoid
burn.

Temperatures for most vandas should be warm; a minimum night temperature of 55° F is
recommended. Colder spells can be tolerated for a short time if it is not windy. Optimum
temperatures are 60° to 70° F at night, and a maximum of 95° F during the day. Warmer
temperatures mean faster growth, which must be balanced with higher humidity, air
movement, and increased water and fertilizer. Days should be warm and humid for optimum
plant growth.

Water should be applied copiously when the plants are growing, but the roots must dry
quickly. Because of this, and their extensive root system, they are mostly grown in slatted-
wood baskets, or in pots with a coarse potting medium. If their situation is warm and sunny,
they may need daily watering. Water sparingly in the winter or during cloudy weather.

Humidity of 80 percent is ideal. In tropical climates this may be easy to obtain. In a

greenhouse, this is easier to provide by using an evaporative cooler. In the home, place the
plants on trays of gravel partially filled with water. Air movement must be strong.

Fertilize with a balanced (such as 20-20-20) fertilizer applied full strength once a week
during warm weather or use a one-quarter-strength solution at every watering. During cool
or cloudy weather, apply fertilizer once every two to four weeks. Use a high-phosphorus
fertilizer (such as 10-30-20) every third application to promote flowering.
Potting should be done in the spring. Plants in baskets do not need to be repotted often.
Leave them unless the potting medium breaks down. Set the plant, with the old basket
intact, into a container of water to make the aerial roots more pliable, and then set plant and
basket into a larger basket. For plants in pots, repot in a slightly larger pot, positioning the
plant in the center. Use a coarse medium, whether fir bar, tree fern or charcoal, and work it
around the roots. Keep shaded, humid, but drier at the roots until new root tips grow. Do not
overpot.