10

Poisonous
Famous Last Words by Lofty Wiseman
Plants

Cooking Christmas The

with Gift Good
Fire Irons Guide Life

How to Own Your Own Woodland

Step-by-step Guide to
Making a Drawknife Sheath
Field Sharpening Techniques
WIN A Petromax*
Rocket
Cordage Making in Stove
the Wilderness

Issue 71 Nov/Dec 17
Bushcraft Adventures For You 11
£5.95

Bushcraft & Survival Skills Magazine

for living life outdoors 9 771749 720016
The Small Print

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Olivia Beardsmore
Editor-in-Chief Olivia David Thompson
Commercial Director
David Richard Harpham
Editor
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bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE | 3
REGULAR

Sensory Overload
I love to witness the seasonal transition from vibrant greens to rustic reds as autumn arrives and the cold breath of
winter approaches. As an outdoorsman I love all the seasons for their unique beauty and purpose - just as we have
seasons in our life and each has purpose. I am not just referring to the ageing process, but we each have times of
warmth and light, times of cold and darkness and times to shed our own leaves and prune ourselves ready for
growth and personal development. Autumn and winter are ideal times for this personal development. Practicing our
bushcraft skills in harsher conditions can stretch our skills, from fire lighting in damp conditions, ensuring our
shelter is adequate and even comfortable, to foraging for food during a leaner period.

This month has been one of personal development and serendipity with my trip to Ontario, Canada where I spent two
weeks immersed in Canadian canoe culture. It was inspiring, spiritual and nourished my soul as I explored huge
wilderness areas. I particpated in the Muskoka River X race, the world’s longest unsupported wilderness race, with
Canadian paddling icon Hap Wilson. This involved 80 miles of racing with 20 portages - the longest of which was
1700m - and even paddling upstream. I then journeyed to Temagami and explored the ancient pine forests with Hap
and Andrea Wilson, who have done so much to save the forest from logging. The vibrancy of colours, dramatic
scenery and the abundant diversity of wildlife was a sensory overload experience.

Speaking of sensory overload, this issue of Bushcraft & Survival Skills Magazine is overflowing with incredible
articles, sharing a depth of knowledge. These include Paul Kirtley’s Poisonous Plant ID (p28), Making Your Own
Woodburner with Fraser Christian (p36) and How To Own Your Own Woodland (p42). Naomi Walmsley’s ‘Berry Merry
Birthday’ article on page 8 provides inspiration, with delicious seasonal recipes.

There are more practical tips from some of our other expert bushcrafters, including Jason Ingamell's great tips on
Cordage in the Wilderness (p72), Make a Drawknife Sheath with Ben and Lois Orford (p78) and be inspired by a
couple who set out to live and make ‘The Good Life’ in Ben Abbot's interview (p94). Our Bushcraft On A Budget
expert, Ian Nairn, shows you how make Mukluk Liners on page 66 and don't miss Lofty Wiseman’s 'Famous Last
Words' (p24).

Thinking about it, our articles represent truly evergreen content - you can read them, try them and own them several
times over. Enjoy the autumn colours as you get immersed in your own bushcraft adventures.

See you in the great outdoors.

Rich

Editor
WIN A Frost River Isle Royal
Pack worth £379.
Runner-Up Prize a pair of Frost River Accessory Bags
Prizes courtesy of 1948 Original Equipment and Frost River
To enter the competition visit:
www.thebushcraftshow.co.uk/competition
(T&Cs apply)

Richard Harpham
Editor
Richard
richard@bushcraftmagazine.com

4 | bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE

 REGULAR
Regular
4 Editorial
6 Readers’ Letters
20 In the News
54 Subscription Offer
56 Next Issue

Features
8 Berry Merry Birthday by Naomi Walmsley
18 Top 10 Bushcraft Shelters Using Natural Materials
24 Famous Last Words by Lofty Wiseman
28 10 Poisonous Plants by Paul Kirtley
36 Fabricating a Recycled Recycling Stove by Fraser Christian
41 The Bushcraft Quiz by Nick Allen
42 How to Own Your Own Woodland by Judith Millidge
46 Razor Shark Sharp Field Sharpening by Mark & Helen Hordon
58 Cooking with Fire Irons by Tim Gent
66 Bushcraft on a Budget – Mukluk Liners by Ian Nairn
72 Cordage in the Wilderness by Jason Ingamells
78 Making a Drawknife Sheath by Ben & Lois Orford
84 The Bushcraft Quiz by Nick Allen
85 Bushcraft Christmas Gift Guide
94 The Good Life by Ben Abbott

reviews
74 The Urban Woodsman Book
92 Spon Book

Competitions
4 WIN Frost River Isle Royal Pack & A Pair of Frost River Accessory Bags
6 Send in your Readers’ Letters
17 WIN a Petromax* Rocket Stove
53 WIN Beaver Bushcraft Sharpening Kit
71 WIN The Urban Woodsman Book
92 WIN Spon Book

bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE | 5

 Letters to the Editor
REGULAR

INSPIRED GENIUS
Hi Richard,

I was inspired by the Belgian-style hexi stove in the last issue to get
on and finally do my own beer related "upcycling".

I've had a number of small 5 litre kegs in the garage for ages and
finally made time to create a small pot bellied stove. Unlike the
Belgian hexi stove it's not quite as portable, but it does have the
advantage of coming with more contents!

I'll make Mark 2 with a much improved door and I'd like to add a
small chimney, but this first model burns nicely and kicks out a
decent amount of heat.

Mike

Hi Mike,

Many thanks for writing in to share your ‘upcycling’ genius. On many

levels it is brilliant, as a stove, making use of old unwanted items and
equally I imagine a talking point for family and group cooking/BBQs.

I hope that others will see your work and follow your lead. You may
start a trend as the beer keg pioneer. Good luck with Mark 2 and keep
us posted on your progress.

Great stuff,
A Ridgeline Igloo
Rich Windproof Fleece
Top worth £60

WOMEN IN THE WILD

Hi Bushcraft & Survival Skills Magazine team,
I love the magazine - I've been a subscriber for just over
a year and have also collected some older issues too.
These are very interesting and also a valuable resource
in my job. I have my own business, running bushcraft,
archery and outdoor challenges primarily for children,
but sometimes with adults too.
Having come from a teaching background, where there
is no advantage/disadvantage to being a woman, I've
been surprised at how male-biased the bushcraft
"industry" is. I'm pleased that your magazine often
showcases women working in or participating in
bushcraft-related activities.
The professional development courses that I've
attended in the last year have been very
male-dominated and many of the online bushcraft
forums I'm a member of are the same. In fact, some of
them have other members that are pretty sexist in their
views and I have, on occasion felt quite uncomfortable
with some of the comments and postings.
leader, I work with 50:50 boys/girls. It's good for me to
be able to reference female role models as well as the
more well known males.
Hopefully in demonstrating to both the boys and girls
that bushcraft and survival skills are about practise and
perseverance and not gender, any sexist
pre-conceptions will lessen in time. I find the clothing
reviews that you often publish interesting, but a little
frustrating, in that they review clothing for men.
Having spent the last few months researching the
availability of "bushcrafting" trousers for women, I
understand that this is probably not your fault!
I want trousers that are hard wearing, with effective
pockets for my tools and reinforced seat and knees. I
also want them to fit! Sadly there is not much choice
out there.
Come on, designers and manufacturers - it's 2017!
Kind regards,

It would seem that we're not quite there with equality Melanie Grenfell
yet. In both my business and in my capacity as a Scout
6 | bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE
Hi there Melanie,
Thanks for taking the time to share your thoughts and
experiences. We are delighted that you like the articles and
inspiration within the magazine and that you can use these
in your work and in Scouting.
Personally, I am really proud that our editorial and writing
team has strong contributions from both male and female
experts. It is interesting that you reference role models, as
in a former life I arranged for inspirational speakers to visit
schools ( www.inspiredlife.org ). This helped to raise
pupils' self esteem and I tried really hard to provide gender
balance among our varied speakers, including Olympians,
adventurers and artists. We found that people of all ages
responded to the achievements, goals and big dreams of
our role models and their ability to overcome adversity,
irrespective of their gender.
In terms of the Bushcraft industry, business in general and
wider acceptance of equality it seems there is still a
surprising distance to travel. In Scandinavia, listed
“THE JOURNEY IS THE DESTINATION”
Dan Eldon
Hi,
We all like to get out into the peace of nature, and most
of us, given the choice, would probably choose to do
that quietly.
The fact is though that all of us, to one degree or
another require some form of transport to get to the
jump off point where we can get to that quiet place. The
very fortunate live a walk away, most of us will need to
drive to a roadside layby or carpark and some of us will
need to take our transport right into the heart of the
"quiet place".
As was so well explained in the letter in the last issue
from the father and son who made use of the wheel-
chair access at The Bushcraft Show, some people can't
"travel light". A 4x4 magazine I also read recently had a
letter from a family who take Land Rovers into the
countryside as this is the only way the grandfather, in
his 80s, can still get to see the green lanes, woods and
fields.
There is a large group of people who accuse those
taking motor vehicles off road (which is perfectly legal if
done correctly) of destroying the environment. That is
similar to accusing all those who practice bushcraft of
hacking down trees, setting illegal snares and starting
fires willy nilly; it is just not true!
Some of us like to travel light, bare bones, some like to
take all the kit in the world with them and some of us
have no choice - we have to use equipment or transport
to be able to access things others take for granted.
It’s all equally valid and as long as what we do is both
legally and morally sound then the bushcraft
community should support it as just another facet of
our shared experience.
Mike Robinson
companies must have at least 40% female board members.
I have found that teams with a more balanced composition
REGULAR
of male and female members usually outperform others in
the long run. I guess to change any prejudice we need to
keep celebrating female achievements, ideas and input,
both as individuals and of course in the media. #thisgirlcan
is a great example. I am well aware that although I have
done thousands of miles of adventures, my wife is my
equal and better in many aspects of life.
+PVGTOUQHENQVJKPI[QWOKIJVƒPFUQOGIQQFQRVKQPU
through Paramo who have a strong range of women’s and
men’s ethical outdoor clothing. Additionally, our
editor-in-chief, Olivia Beardsmore highly recommends
Fjällräven for women’s trousers.
Personally I hope that we can connect The Hunter-
more women ‘bushcrafters’ and outdoor Gatherer Way
types to push things forward. by Ffyona
Campbell
Thanks again, is on its way
Rich
Dear Mike,
Thanks for your letter discussing the wider issues,
responsibilities and pitfalls facing us as outdoor people
and members of the bushcraft community. As you say,
things done sensibly and mindful of the wider environ-
ment and other users should be developed as best
practice. I also feel we should not judge others for their
ways of practising bushcraft skills as long as we are all
aiming to ‘leave no trace’.
I recently had the privilege of spending time with Alex
Mathias, elder of the Ojibwa people, who at 73 is the last
person fluent in his language from the Temagami First
Nation, Canada. He talked about managing resources
sustainably and had fought against large logging
companies accessing his traditional lands for whole
scale harvesting and clearance. Certainly he was an
advocate for only using what you really need, as
opposed to mass consumption.
Personally I have been aware of the dichotomy between
being a human powered adventurer, at one with land or
water and then of course ‘getting there’, whether it is
plane or vehicle. My compromise has been to try and
keep a balance, set a good example and try and meet
the 80:20 rule of sustainability. After all, nature is a
system that self regulates and tries to keep a balance.
Hopefully if we all do our bit and look after the wild(er)
spaces and the planet in general, it will remain abundant
and beautiful for future generations.
Happy bushcrafting,
Rich A signed copy of
Steve Backshall’s
book ‘Looking For
Adventure’ is on
its way!
bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE | 7
 Berry Merry
Features

Birthday
Author Profile
Naomi has been teaching Bushcraft and outdoor
skills for the past 10 years. While she always had
a passion for adventures outside, Naomi was
inspired to create Outback2basics after a 5
month primitive living course in 2010 that
culminated in a full Stone Age wilderness NAOMI WALMSLEY
immersion in the US. She is an NCFE level 4
qualified Bushcraft instructor, with Forest School leader qualifications and
a constant passion to learn more!

I love the way your priorities and

standards change when you are living
outside. Suddenly your daily hot
shower gets replaced with a freezing
dip in a lake where you come out dirtier
then when you went in but somehow
feel amazingly refreshed. Your most
treasured possession is now a bark cup
so you don’t have to lap like a cat from a
fresh water spring. Your lip balm made
entirely from the fat of a buffalo is a
luxury toiletry item! Things that are
common and that I had taken for
granted in the modern world suddenly
gained great value to me when I was
living a more primitive existence. I was
taking part in a month long primitive
immersion course in the wilderness of
the North Cascades in Washington
State, U.S.A. shedding all modern
equipment in exchange for a forest and
all that she offered. I wanted to test
myself, see if I could ‘survive’ without
what I had considered for so long to be
my essential items, a house, clothes,
tools and a phone!

8 | bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE

We had been living out in the wilderness for over two
weeks. We had become used to calling a rock, a pillow,
a ditch, a toilet, moss toilet paper, using a puddle to
check our wild reflections and eating a completely
natural diet. It was an altogether simpler way of life and
living this way gave a real sense of connection with our
primitive ancestors.
Most of all we had no concept of time. When we were
hungry, we ate. When we were tired, we slept. And as
we had no access to a calendar, no mobile phones, no
TV or radio telling us the minute of the day or the day of
the month we were in, we never knew what the date
was. But who cared - dates were irrelevant to us.
However, it seemed on this one gorgeously sunny day
that one of our tribe knew exactly what the date was. It
was his birthday!
How exciting, I love birthdays! I love giving presents,
decorating a room with balloons, banners and
streamers. I love making (and eating!) extravagant
birthday cakes and making the person feel special on
their day. Sadly, though, here we had nothing that
resembled anything particularly ‘birthday-ish’ and the
only thing we had close to a ‘cake’ was a dried meat
patty which I didn’t think would unleash any sort of
‘excitement’ for the birthday boy.
I thought hard about what I could present in the way of
a gift. With most of our thoughts and energy spent
making sure our basic needs were met, what could I
Features
possibly produce that was just for pleasure and would
make him smile? Then it came to me. The one thing
that we all craved the most was sugar, so something
sugary to eat would make a great gift. But, there was a
problem. Access to anything sweet out here was
limited. Traditionally the main source of edible
sweetness in a wilderness like this was berries.
Unfortunately bears also have a sweet tooth and bushes
that had been laden with luscious fruit had been
stripped nearly bare by foraging black bears and even
those bushes where a few ripening berries still clung
were being revisited by the lumbering beasts (and who’s
going to argue with a greedy bear hoping for seconds?)
Any berry spotted by a member of the human
contingent was instantly seized and devoured with only
a fleeting smile of triumph and brief sigh of pleasure to
mark its passage from bush to belly. Under these
circumstances how could I hope to gather enough
berries to make a collection that would constitute a
birthday present? Only time and dedication could help
and I had all of these!
Careful that the message informing the others what I
was doing didn’t reach the ears of the birthday boy I fell
back from the group and searched each huckleberry
bush with intent. No berry was too small and none was
for my belly! Each berry gift was carefully collected and
dropped into my rawhide basket.
bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE | 9
 Finally, we reached our destination for the day. Our
Features
packs were released and unloaded and a fire started.
With the berries wrapped in the finest primitive leaf
wrapping paper we presented the gift to our friend. His
jaw dropped open. He was stunned into silence. All in
all we had collected 57 plump, juicy, ripe huckleberries.
He held them in his hand like they were delicate fairy
wings, not wanting to drop any or crush a single one.
He finally looked up from his handful of gold dust and
told us it genuinely was the best birthday present he
had ever received. And he meant it.
It took him about an hour to eat all the berries. It took a
lot of will power for us to decline any offer to share, but
truly his delight was our pleasure. He sat with the
biggest, happiest grin on his face, allowing each berry to
slowly release its juice in his mouth. Occasionally, he
treated himself to two at a time, an unheard of pleasure
until now!
10 | bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE
His birthday was finished with a fine meal of dried jerky
and morel mushroom stew with an extra helping of
seconds (or maybe it was even thirds) for the birthday
boy. We sang to him around the campfire and all offered
blessings and good wishes for the year ahead for him.
We fell asleep around the campfire under a thick blanket
of stars, all grateful for the simple pleasures the day had
brought us.
Back in the modern world I have access to many sweet
treats. My favourites are often still the simple ones - the
ripe blackberry, the juicy apple or plum - but sometimes I
do crave something a little more indulgent. So here are
two of my favourite recipes for (non) healthy sweet treats
cooked on an open fire.
Sugar doughnuts

Features
I warn you though these treats are dangerous. They are super simple and you’ll
want to make them all the time!

Ingredients:
• Sunflower oil
e
• 1 chopped appl
• 1 tsp cinna m on
flour
• 175g self-raising ix
gar for the main m
• 1 tbsp brown su the balls afterwards
tbsp brow n su gar to coat
• 1

Tools:
• Frying pan
d
• Chopping boar
• Kn ife
• Mixing bowl
• Spoon

bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE | 11

 Step three
Features

How to: Heat up 1 cm in depth of oil in a pan on your fire. Test

your oil is hot enough by letting a small amount of your
dough drop into your pan. If it sizzles then it is hot
enough.
Step one Step four
Make a fire.
Drop small spoonfuls of your mixture into the oil and
turn using a spoon as soon as they start to turn brown.
Step two The bigger they are the longer they will take to cook. If
Chop your apples into tiny chunks. Mix together with
the oil is hot enough they will cook quickly, too hot
the cinnamon, brown sugar and flour. Add a dash of
though and they will spit and burn. If the oil is spitting
water and mix gently. You do not want a firm dough for
take off the heat and wait a moment until it calms.
this but a sticky one instead. Be careful not to mix the
dough too much, otherwise you’ll knock out all the air
and won’t achieve a nice fluffy consistency inside.

Step five
Once they are cooked, take off the heat and
straightaway drop into a bowl of brown sugar. Coat
them all over with the sugar and eat.

12 | bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE

Toffee apples

Features
Everyone loves toffee apples but for some reason they’re only available in October!
Below is a simple recipe so you can create this delicious sweet treat anytime you
like! Be careful though, it’s a dangerous skill to have… A toffee apple a day may
keep the doctor in pay! (or something like that!)

Ingredients:
• Sunflower oil
e
• 1 chopped appl
• 1 tsp cinna m on
flour
• 175g self-raising ix
gar for the main m
• 1 tbsp brown su the balls afterwards
tbsp brow n su gar to coat
• 1

Tools:
• Apple peeler
• A knife
• A plate
er
• A bowl of wat

bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE | 13

Features

How to:
Step one
Make a fire.

Step two
Peel your apple.

Step three
Sharpen one end of your stick.

Step four
Put a handful of brown sugar on a plate – mix with a
sprinkling of cinnamon if desired.

Step five
Let your apple soak in the bowl of water for 5 minutes.
Skewer your apple on the sharp end of your stick. Cook
over your fire, turning frequently. It’s ready when it
starts to bubble all over.

Step six
Be careful as it is hot now! Dunk back in the water. Roll
in your sugar mix until completely covered.

Step seven
Cook again on the fire, rotating frequently until all the
sugar has melted.

Step eight
Put a handful of brown sugar on a plate – mix with a
sprinkling of cinnamon if desired.
Wait until cooled and eat.

These days, now I’m not surviving in the woods, sugar and sweet treats are mostly things I try to avoid in my daily
life. I try to keep to eating sugar to just at the weekends. The problem is that the weekend goes from Friday evening
through to Sunday evening and occasionally cleaning up the overflow on Monday too, which technically means I’m
eating sugar more than 50% of my week! Never mind, at least I’m trying. And for some reason I tend to convince
myself that if it’s homemade and cooked on a fire then it’s most definitely healthy!
14 | bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE
 15% OFF Code: BCS17

15%
OFF
Code: BCS17
Feature

WIN A Petromax* Rocket Stove

and Carry Case worth £145
To enter the competition visit:
www.thebushcraftshow.co.uk/competition

Tickets
On Sale
Now!

n
Lofty Wisema

26-28th May 2018

Beehive Farm, Woodland Lakes, Rosliston, Derbyshire
16 | bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE
Feature

Top 10 Bushcraft Shelters Using Natural Materials

Bough bed
As its name suggests, this is not really a shelter but is a wonderful method of increasing
one’s comfort, providing insulation from the cold ground. It can be used as a great
addition to other shelters. Basically, the bough bed is two parallel logs, of a length longer
than the person’s height, spaced about three feet (0.9m) apart. The gap between these is
then filled with boughs, dead dry grasses or leaves until there is a depth of at least six
inches (15 cm). More boughs and leaves etc. can be added as necessary.

Debris/A frame
This is one of the best emergency shelters as, if constructed properly, it is very sturdy and
can be built fairly quickly using materials found in woodland. A long, roughly straight pole
or branch forms the length and ridge of the shelter. This is longer than the height of the
person so he or she can lie underneath and it is held off the ground at one end by two
shorter sturdy sticks. These are angled outwards to form the entrance to the shelter. It is
best to use sticks with forked ends that can lock into place with the ridge pole. A lot
more branches or sticks are rested against the ridge, at appropriate angles, all along the
length. These do not extend greatly above the ridge. Other sticks, saplings or other
materials are usually woven into the ‘walls’ to give extra support and the ‘skeleton’ is
covered with foliage, such as pine branches or ferns. Leaf litter is built up, starting ground
level, so that the entire shelter is covered.

Lean to
This employs a horizontal pole or branch, lashed to two trees and/or vertical supports that
are firmly secured to the ground, to form a ridge. Extra support may be given to the
ridgepole by the use of noggins which are also lashed to the tree(s). Another pole or long
log placed on and preferably pegged to the ground runs parallel to the ridgepole at the foot
of the shelter. A number of roof poles, the number dependent on the size of the shelter,
are positioned and lashed evenly along the length of the ridge linking up with the
‘footpole’. The outer poles are positioned on the inside of the trees to prevent outward
migration. Side stakes are used to help form lateral walls if time or circumstances allow.
A skeleton of saplings or small branches created by alternate weaving between the roof
poles and walls is completely covered in large materials such as pine boughs, clumps of
moss, bracken, ferns and large leaves. A wind shield or fire reflector may also be
constructed.

Log cabin
A log cabin requires more effort than other survival shelters but will provide excellent
long-term protection. The ground is cleared and flattened first and a plentiful supply of
logs of appropriate lengths are required. Ideally, the bark is removed to reduce gaps
opening from its breaking down over time. However, the really important thing is that
notches have been cut towards the end of the logs so that when the square or rectangular
walls are built up, the logs fit into each other snugly, are locked into place and leave as
small a gap as possible between the horizontally lying wall logs. An overhang is left as
this helps to give the cabin its strength. For a straightforward structure, two logs are
positioned on the ground parallel to each other and another two at right angles to these.
This creates the required shape, usually a square or rectangle. Since most logs will be
tapered, they should be laid down alternately in opposite directions to keep the
accumulated height of built-up logs as level as possible.Any resulting gaps are later filled,
or ‘caulked’ by forcing a paste of mud, leaves and grasses etc. in to proof the walls against
wind and rain. Once the required wall height is reached, a doorway (and window if
required) are cut but ensure that a lintel remains. Other logs are cut and wedged into place
to act as support against the door and window sides. The roof is constructed by gradually
narrowing the length of the side logs, determined by the desired slope and either building a
solid log roof or spacing out the logs running across the width of the roof, called purlins,
which then have saplings lashed on. The roof can be finished off by thatching with
materials such as long grasses or ferns, covered in mud or tiled with bark, depending on
the materials to hand. If the doorway and window are covered then ventilation should be
incorporated, especially if a fire is to be lit inside the cabin.
18 | bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE
Overhang relief shelter

Feature
Rock overhangs and caves are ready made, natural shelters which can protect us from the
wind, rain or snow. If small enough, they can be added to with branches to give more
protection. However, such shelters may be frequented by fauna so it is worth checking
first for tracks or droppings, especially if the local wildlife is dangerous. Other
considerations relate to the stability of the overhanging rock. Loose boulders and stones
or cracks in the rock may suggest that the roof of the shelter is not safe. Assuming that
the overhang appears in good condition and is not too exposed to the prevailing wind it is,
arguably, the easiest and simplest of shelters.

Quinzee
A quinzee is similar to an igloo in shape, but made from compacted snow rather than
blocks of ice. Snow is piled up, often over a tarp covered rucksack etc. and compacted
and hardened. This is done using a process called ‘sintering’ in which different
temperature mixes of snow are overlaid until it is the desired height, usually 7 or 8 ft (2.1 –
2.4m) and shape. Plenty of guide sticks, of 1 to 2 ft (30 – 60cm) in length, are positioned
into the dome shape all around. The snow mound is then burrowed into, the tarp and
equipment removed, and snow excavated until the ends of the guide sticks are reached
ensuring equal wall thickness remains throughout. A ventilation hole is made in the roof
and a raised sleeping platform created to raise the user above the ‘well’ of colder air.

Snow cave
Often the only option for shelter in areas with deep snow is the snow cave. It is formed by
tunnelling into the low point of a deep and solid snow bank or drift. The ‘cave’ is then dug
upwards to create the actual shelter ensuring there is a platform to sleep or rest on. A
ventilation hole is incorporated into the roof, especially if the entrance is to be blocked.
Cold air falls into the lower tunnel area and the sleeping platform keeps the user out of the
cold area.

Snow coffin
Fortunately the name of this shelter comes from the shape of the pit, rather than its
purpose! It is basically a long rectangular-like pit with a wider, often semi-circular rear end
dug into the snow. This is deep and long enough for a person to lie in, about 8 feet (2.4m)
long and 3 feet (0.9m) wide. The base is angled downhill so that the front end is lower
than the rear end. The person’s head will be at the higher, wider end and their feet at the
lower, narrower entrance end. If the snow is insufficiently deep, a pile can be formed from
which the pit will be made. The snow mound should be a relatively level-topped, elongated
dome which tapers downwards from the rear to the front. Another alternative is that walls
are built up using large balls of snow. The floor is insulated with any suitable material
such as leaves or pine needles. Then sticks, branches or any similar sized materials are
placed along the top of the pit to form the foundations of a roof. Smaller material is
added afterwards and clumps or blocks of snow piled on top. This is then covered with
loose snow until the roof is approximately 2 feet (60cm) thick. A door is made with logs or
a large snowball and a ventilation hole is added to the shelter.

Tree pit
This is another shelter that can give excellent protection in deep snow conditions but, this
time, in wooded areas. In deep snow a large tree with thick low branches is chosen and
these form the roof of the shelter. Snow is dug out from next to the tree trunk and any
obstructing branches removed. These can be later used to improve the roof of the shelter.
The shelter should be kept small to reduce the area to heat. Once the pit is dug and bare
ground reached, snow is packed down on the side and top of the walls. The pit floor and
walls are insulated with any suitable materials. The previously removed branches and/or
any other boughs or branches are placed over the roof to give extra protection against the
elements.

Wickiup
The wickiup, traditionally associated with indigenous nomadic peoples of the south-
western United States, is built around a tripod of poles that give the required height of the
shelter. Several more poles are added, closely together, to form a tipi-type structure. The
outside of these walls is densely covered in debris such as leaves, pine needles or
whatever is available. A fire may be lit if the wickiup is large enough and the vegetation
used for the roof is not too dry. Wickiup derives from the Algonquian word, wikiyap, and
actually translates as dwelling or house.
bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE | 19
News

BIG BUSHCRAFT GIVEAWAY

It’s not long now until our annual online BIG Bushcraft Giveaway
goes live. For the sixth year running Bushcraft & Survival Skills
Magazine and a team of partners will be giving away bushcraft kit,
courses and experiences for 25 days of advent fun as we count down
to Christmas Day with you, commencing on 1st December 2017.

Last December we gave away thousands of pounds worth of kit and

experiences to many happy followers. To whet your appetite here
are just some of the goodies being given away this year; Wisport
Whistler 35 II Rucksack, Ridgeline Monsoon Classic, Ridgeline
Pintail Explorer, Woodland Ways Bushcraft Fundamentals
Course and of course Christmas Day is always something very
special.

To enter the BIG Bushcraft Giveaway, all you need to do is keep a

lookout on our Facebook page from the 1st December until
Christmas day as we announce each daily giveaway. To increase
your chances of seeing each competition, go on our Facebook page
and click the down arrow on the ‘Following’ tab and click on 'See
first'.

Visit: www.facebook.com/bushcraftmagazine

Royal Geographic Society

Explore 2017 Weekend
The annual RGS Explore Weekend is being held in London, 10-12
November 2017. It is a weekend for anyone planning an expedition,
field research project or an adventurous journey with a purpose.
There will be access to leading researchers, advice and workshops.
For more information and to book your place visit:

www.rgs.org
20 | bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE
 REGULAR
News
Galloway Forest
Dark Sky Park
Galloway’s Dark Sky Park received its designation back in 2009 and was the fifth in the world
and first in the UK to be established. It recently held a Dark Sky Conference, with
Environment Secretary Roseanna Cunningham in attendance, who commented ”Galloway
Forest’s Dark Sky Park has a vital role to play in raising awareness of light pollution, whilst
also boosting the local economy through stargazing tourism.”

The park is seen as a location to help share best practice and use more efficient technologies
to reduce energy consumption and overall light pollution. Four freelance Biosphere & Dark
Sky Rangers have been trained specifically to take guided night sky events and host talks.

Forest Enterprise Scotland manages the Galloway Dark Sky Park with events throughout the
year and it is well worth a visit. Around 4% of the UK’s landmass is now covered by dark sky
places.
www.scotland.forestry.gov.uk

Project Wild Thing

Are you aware of Project Wild Thing? The #projectwildthing has been campaigning for more
‘wild time’ for our children and young people, providing activities, ideas and inspiration.
They have a great film which has been viewed by over 1 million people in 11 countries. If you
live in the UK you can apply to screen it free in your community through the following link,
but hurry as there are only 250 free screenings available. www.thewildnetwork.com

River Access For All

Canoe Wales & British Canoeing have recently submitted a joint response to the Welsh
Government consultation “Taking Forward Wales’ Sustainable Management of Natural
Resources”. Over 800 individual paddlers have also submitted their own responses in
support of Canoe Wales desire for greater River Access.

Did you know that currently you/we can only access about 3% of the inland waters in
England and Wales for paddling, exploring, and wild swimming? Lend your support to wider
river access by supporting the River Access Campaign. www.riveraccessforall.co.uk
bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE | 21
 Double Boost for
REGULAR
News

Duke of Edinburgh Funds

The Duke of Edinburgh's Award Scheme,
largely recognised as the world’s leading
achievement award, has received a huge
boost for its Diamond Year fundraising
initiative. The #iwillfund from the Big
Lottery and Department for Culture, Media
and Sport has agreed to match the £1 million
already raised, meaning the charity now has
£2 million to support disadvantaged young
people doing their D of E. Last year alone
the scheme supported almost 50,000
disadvantaged young people. The funds will
be dispersed through the regional offices to
licensed organisations or affiliated groups
who can support disadvantaged young
people.
The D of E award scheme with bronze, silver
and gold levels is a perfect fit for younger
bushcrafters as it is recognised by employers
and includes learning a new skill (could be
bushcraft), an expedition and of course
volunteering.
Find our more by visiting
www.dofe.org

Woodland Trust
on the Hunt for Volunteer Wardens
The Woodland Trust is on the hunt for volunteer wardens for its woods. This could be a
great way to give back some of your time, but also to spend more time in the great outdoors.

They are also running a scheme where Forest Schools and schools can apply for free trees
from the Trust. There are 90,000 available so get your application in - what a great way to
encourage a love of nature in young people by planting and caring for these trees.

Finally, keep an eye out for updates about the long awaited Government 25 year plan for
Nature. Beccy Speight, chief executive of Woodland Trust, met Michael Gove, the
Environment Secretary, who did admit the plan has had the "gestation period of an elephant!"
It is promised by the end of the year and will be important for protecting our green spaces
post-Brexit.

www.woodlandtrust.org.uk

The Bushcraft Quiz Answers to the questions on p78

Pyrolysis A10.
Competition A lasso A9.
Winners… The lungs of an animal
Respect, protect, enjoy
A8.
A7.
Wayside Medicine Book Rosebay Willowherb (Fireweed in the U.S.) A6.
Karen Singleton traditional to Inuit and Chukchi people
2 Places on a Coastal Survival A meal of frozen whale skin and blubber, A5.
Forage and Cook Course
Ian Rice, Michael Robertson Rooibos (Redbush) tea A4.
Mind of a Survivor Book Voortrekkers A3.
Peter Frost Merak and Dubhe A2.
Lyme's disease A1.

22 | bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE

We have a huge range of products from great brands for the Bushcraft Enthusiast,
available to buy online, over the phone, or in our amazing high street store in
Enfield, Middlesex.

The Bushcraft Store is

leading the way in
bringing you some of
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We stock a great
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Culver Nurseries, Cattlegate Road, Enfield, Middlesex EN2 9DS
for Bushcraft!
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 Famous
Feature
Soon be there...
this looks a good crossing point...
that snake is not so fast...
Author Profile
Lofty Wiseman served with 22 SAS for over 26
years, rising to the rank of Sergeant-Major. He
ran the SAS selection course and the Survival
School, ensuring that the standards for the SAS
remained high. After he retired, he wrote The
SAS Survival Handbook, first published in 1986. LOFTY WISEMAN
Selling over 2 million copies, it has been
translated into 19 different languages and adapted for the Collins Pocket
Guide and iPhone App selling hundreds of thousands each year.
These are just a few quotes from a trek carried out in
Borneo in the early 1960s that are still imprinted on my
mind. Our mission was to find a route from the Kelabit
Highlands, to another tribal area to the South. Many
years earlier this was a trade route between the Kelabits
and the Murats, two indigenous tribes of Borneo. There
were many rumours among the locals about why the
trade route ceased, but I discovered the main reason,
which I will divulge later.
It was uncharted territory and the only maps available
were produced from air photos. This meant there were
large blank areas on the map just stating, ’cloud cover’.
The main rivers were accurately displayed, but
everything else was left to the imagination.
24 | bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE
We set off in a four-man patrol from a village called
Patic. Initially, we made good progress using game trails
and the knowledge gleaned from locals who foraged
and hunted in this area. The patrol leader said, “We’ll
soon be there at this rate”. We carried ten days worth of
rations and these words of wisdom encouraged us to
eat more than our daily allotment, a big mistake. The
further out from the village we travelled, the more
difficult the terrain became. On the first day we covered
a good 20km. On the second day maybe 18km and on
the third day down to 15km. In the following days we
went in circles, one day finishing up after a hard day's
slog back where we started from. This was due to
climbing the wrong spur to reach a ridge which we had
to cross. It finished up under a precipice that forced us
to retrace our steps. So much for “soon be there”.
The tracks petered out, leaving us to fight through
secondary jungle which is just a tangled mass of
vegetation. This is caused when the large trees are cut
down allowing light to penetrate the jungle floor, which
creates ideal conditions for quick growing plants like
bamboo, atap, and belluca, to flourish. The locals cut
down large areas of jungle to cultivate, burning the area
to clear it for planting. This also produces potash to
fertilise their crop. They would only use this area once
and start again the following season. Left unattended
this burned area quickly becomes covered in a mass of
intertwined greenery, where you need a parang to cut a
route through.
A clump of bamboo is impenetrable and is best avoided,

Feature
forcing detours to be made. It is dangerous to cut
bamboo as it is often under tension, and when cut will
explode, sending out razor sharp splinters. Never place
a hand on the stem you are cutting, as the bamboo can
split, trapping the hand and causing deep cuts. Atap,
also known as ‘wait a while’ or ‘nancy sikit’ in Malay, is a
fast growing vine with fish-hook-like thorns on all its
stems. These stems can be over 30 feet long and fasten
to skin, clothing and equipment with equal enthusiasm.
It is nature's barbed wire and the only way to disengage
the vicious barbs is to back up and carefully pull the
hooks free.

Although seen as a bloody nuisance, both of these

plants are very important in a survival situation.
Bamboo is as important to the locals as the bison was
to the American Indians. You can eat bamboo shoots,
make shelter, rafts, cooking equipment and even
musical instruments from it. Atap is a good source of
nourishment once stripped of its barbs and peeled. The
soft pith inside can be eaten raw or gently cooked.

As if the secondary jungle wasn’t enough, we

encountered a swamp. This supports every living
creature that bites scratches or stings. Every growing
thing is encased in spikes, prickles, or barbs.
Swampland is home to many flying creatures, who
attack night and day, there is no respite. Leeches thrive
and grow enormous and to keep them company snakes
and lizards complete the scene.

After climbing the ridge we descended into a steep

valley laced with many watercourses. This was the head
waters of a large river. It rained continuously, turning
these minor streams into raging torrents. We
encountered many hornet nests which at first lightened
the mood when someone was stung. But he who laughs
last, laughs longest. The lead scout was frantically
waving his arms in gay abandon, screaming at the same
time. As he ran back past us, we all applauded his
rhythmic talent until the squadron of hornets following
him turned on us, not so funny.

bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE | 25

 The swamp drained into the river that was in spate. We
were low on rations and were looking forward to
Feature
catching the odd fish, but with the state of the river this
was out of the question. We looked for a suitable
crossing point hoping to find slack water devoid of
rocks. We spent hours following the torrent looking for a
suitable crossing point. I think exhaustion and
frustration clouded our leaders’ judgement as he
declared, "this looks like a good place to cross". All I
could see was cascading water crashing over smooth
boulders, sculptured over time by the force of nature. As
the tallest and newest member of the patrol I was
nominated as ‘dipstick’, the first man in to test the
water.
The Bergan, if packed correctly, becomes the floatation
aid and the weapon is placed on top. An empty water
bottle is tied to the weapon by a length of para cord, just
in case it breaks free. I entered the water and to cut a
26 | bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE
long story short was immediately washed off my feet,
finishing up 300 yards downstream on the other bank,
expelling water from every orifice of my body. Everything
I owned was soaked - so much for a waterproof Bergan.
The last of my food gone, I set up camp drying my kit
and foraging, this is where the survival skills kick in.
It took two days for us to all join up again. The rain
eased off allowing the river to drop. Three bedraggled
figures slumped around the fire I had prepared, asking
for food. They were on their chinstraps so I went
foraging alone, another thing you shouldn’t do. Always
use the buddy system, stay in pairs. The area was
devastated by the flood and apart from the odd plant I
didn’t find any other edible thing. I returned to the
campsite to find the others poking at a snake with
sticks. It was entwined around a log that had got
washed down the river. I think it was a brown tree snake
that usually poses no threats to humans, however no
one likes being poked about with sticks, especially after
a log ride in a raging torrent. The golden rule is to treat
every snake as being lethal and steer well clear of them,
but when you're hungry this goes out the window. One
of the lads said, "this snake isn’t so fast", and tried to
grab its tail. One minute he had a stick tormenting the
reptile in one hand, next a three foot snake hanging
from the other, all happening in a blink of an eye.
Any bite is dangerous and although the snake was not
venomous, secondary infection is inevitable. We treated
his wound and let him have first choice of the snake
cutlets.
After a lengthy discussion around the fire, fortified by a
good meal of snake, we agreed why the route was
abandoned by the locals so long ago. They had more
sense than us. On reflection, the river crossing was a
nightmare and as for the slow moving snake and the
journey that wouldn’t take long, it all taught me a lesson.
‘Never take anything for granted’
Feature

You Should Be Aware Of

Words and photos by Paul Kirtley

Poisonous plants are not all made equal. Some are
more poisonous to humans than others. Some toxins
are faster acting than others. Some toxins have an
effect when ingested, while others have an effect on
contact with the plant. This should, however, not make
you afraid of plants. They are not out to get you. Many
toxins in plants have evolved to defend the plants from
insect, pests and other predators. It's just a case of
becoming educated and learning to identify plants that
may cause you harm if you ingest or touch them. In
general, the most important plants to learn first are the
most common. And with poisonous plants, the most
important ones to learn first are the most common and
widespread species that have significant ability to
cause you some trouble. Below are ten plants to get
you started with your knowledge of poisonous plants.
All are common and widespread, with some resembling
edible species.
Author Profile
Paul is the owner and Chief Instructor of Frontier
Bushcraft, one of the UK’s leading Bushcraft
schools, which he founded in 2010. Also a
Mountain Leader, Paul was previously Course
Director at Woodlore. In addition to training and
working with Ray Mears for 10 years, Paul has PAUL KIRTLEY
also worked alongside arctic survival expert
Lars Falt, tracking authority David Scott-Donelan and canoe maestro Ray
Goodwin.

28 | bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE

 Feature
The fruit of bittersweet
resemble tiny tomatoes
but are poisonous to humans

grows as a climbing vine in hedgerows and woodland

Bittersweet, Solanum dulcamara edges. It particularly likes damp ground and can be
Also known as woody nightshade, this member of the seen amongst plants right on the edge of rivers.
nightshade family is much more common than its
infamous relative deadly nightshade, Atropa belladonna
Flowers of bittersweet by a river
and as such you are much more likely to come across it.
Bittersweet is part of the Solanaceae family of plants
which also includes tomatoes and potatoes and
bittersweet bears some common family resemblances
to these in its flower and leaf shape. Bittersweet
flowers are purple, with a yellow centre - very striking.
The purple colouration is also present in other parts of
the plant, most noticeably the stems of the fruits. The
fruits themselves resemble tiny, ovoid tomatoes, which
start green and ripen to a full red. The fruits even smell
like tomatoes but are poisonous to humans. The plant
bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE | 29
 Black Bryony, Tamus communis
Feature

Leaf of black bryony

This plant is a twining vine growing in hedges and
amongst other plants such as brambles in the woods.
Black bryony is related to yams but is a long way from
being edible, its starchy root being stuffed with high
concentrations of toxins, including sharp calcium
oxalate crystals. It is not so visible in summer but
becomes more so in autumn and winter when its
attractive red berries, which can stay on the vine right
into winter, are more obvious. These berries are also
poisonous.

Fruits of black bryony

Dog’s Mercury, Mercuralis

perennis
This is a common plant of woodland floors in the UK
and Europe, often forming continuous stands. It is not
the most showy of plants and it is generally unknown by
most people, even though they may see it every day
while walking their dog in the woods. Dog’s mercury is
most prominent in the spring. At first glance it
somewhat resembles a mint but it has some significant
differences both in the leaf arrangement and the
flowers. In the UK, this is one of two native members of
the Euphorbia family, both of which are toxic. Dog's
mercury is by no means one of the most poisonous
plants you'll find in the woods but it is very common and
should not be ingested. Learn it so you can differentiate
it from more useful species of plants you will find in the The leaves of Dog's Mercury
same habitats.
30 | bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE

Giant Hogweed,
Heracleum mantegazzianum
This plant species originates in central Asia and was
introduced to the UK and western Europe as an
ornamental. It contains a number of toxins, including
chemicals which cause dermatalogical reactions when
in contact with human skin. These reactions can be
particularly severe when they occur in bright summer
sunlight as the toxins make the skin more sensitive to
UV light.
This photosensitising sap has been increasingly
reported in the news as children are typically the ones
harmed. That said, the reactions are not limited to
children and people cutting the plant down or, even
worse, strimming it, spattering sap on their unprotected
skin, have had blistering. Eyes can be damaged by
getting the sap into them. Clearly care should be taken
around this plant. When it is small, the leaves are quite
light green in colour and can be differentiated from
other related species, in particular common hogweed,
Heracleum sphondylium. When large, the plant is like a
triffid and cannot be mistaken for anything else. These
plants are becoming more widespread in areas they
have been introduced and seem to favour damp ground,
particularly the banks of rivers and canals.
Leaves of foxgloves
Paul Kirtley standing next to
Feature
a specimen of giant hogweed
Foxglove, Digitalis purpurea
This is a plant that makes its presence known. The
imposing flowering stems, holding beautiful purple
bell-shaped flowers are obvious to all. What is less well
known is that foxglove is a biennial, which means the
plant completes its life cycle over two years. In the first
year, it produces a broad rosette of leaves, close to the
ground. The easy-to-spot purple flowers appear only in
the plant's second year. Hence, it is much less
well-recognised in the first year. You should learn to
differentiate the leaves of foxglove from other useful
edible or medicinal plants such as burdock, mullein and
comfrey. All parts of foxglove plants contain powerful
toxic alkaloids which act on the heart. Human
poisoning has occurred following consumption of the
leaves and flowers. Some people use the plant as a
toilet paper but this is not to be generally recommended
as skin reactions have been reported following contact
with the leaves.
bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE | 31
Feature
Hemlock, Conium maculatum
This is the classic "poison hemlock", which many have
heard of but far fewer know how to identify. It is
important to be able to differentiate this from other less
noxious members of the carrot family, to which this
highly poisonous plant also belongs. The leaves are
lacy, feather-like structures, which resemble the
commonly known cow parsley. Hemlock has purple
splotches on a relatively robust stem, which is round
and hollow. The leaves are somewhat finer and more
frilly than cow parsley but the differences are relatively
subtle. Some people say this plant has an odd
unpleasant smell but personally I find this unreliable.
Learn the external features of the plant, including leaves
and stem, for positive identification. Along with several
of the poisonous species in this article, which share at
least some family features with edible species, as with
any foraging for wild foods, remember "if in doubt, leave
it out."
32 | bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE
Hemlock has caused fatal poisonings following
ingestion. All parts of the plant contain toxic alkaloids,
including coniine and gamma-coniceine. Parts of the
plant that have caused poisoning by eating include the
seeds, the leaves and the roots. The potency of each
part varies with climate and season but if ingestion of
any part of this plant is suspected, urgent medical
treatment should always be sought. Signs and
symptoms of hemlock poisoning are reported as
burning and dryness of the mouth, followed by
weakness in the muscles, eventually leading to
paralysis and difficulty breathing. Pupil dilation,
vomiting, diarrhoea, convulsions and loss of
consciousness have also been recorded. Death occurs
due to respiratory paralysis.
Hemlock Water Dropwort,

Feature
Oenanthe crocata
Another poisonous member of the carrot family,
Apiaceae. This plant of wet woodlands, riversides and
ditches has multiple toxins, including oenanthetoxin and
linear furanocoumarins. This plant is more common
than you might think. Once you learn to identify it, you
will see it in many places. In the UK it tends to be more
in the south as well as the west and I have seen it
extensively in mainland Europe too. Some of the toxins
are photosensitising so you should avoid contact with
the plant and the plant should also not be ingested as it
is highly toxic if eaten. There are numerous documented
cases of fatal poisoning from this plant and its relatives,
which contain similar toxins. The leaves resemble
flat-leaf parsley or coriander and the roots resemble
parsnips. The roots contain four hollow chambers,
though. Do not mistake these for other edible roots in
this family such as wild carrot, Daucus carota.

Top Photo: Leaves of hemlock water

dropwort
Middle Photo: The flowers of hemlock
water dropwort
Bottom Photo: Fruits of arum

Lords and Ladies,

Arum maculatum
This plant is one of the first leaves to emerge in the
spring, racing to collect sunshine ahead of the trees
coming into leaf. Also known colloquially as cuckoo
pint, this plant is in flower in the early spring with its
distinctive sheathing bract, enclosing the flower,
reminiscent of a medieval cowl. Later in the year, from
mid summer onwards, its spike of berries, ripening from
green to a vibrant and attractive red, make its presence
known from a distance. Despite the attractiveness of
the fruit, some saying they resemble jelly bean sweets,
these berries are not for nibbling. The plant contains
calcium oxalate raphides, sharp crystals that easily
puncture the mucus membranes of your mouth and
throat, causing intense irritation and soreness, plus
creating an avenue for other toxins to enter. Some
cases of skin and eye reactions to contact with juices of
the plant have been recorded, although handling the
plant is relatively low risk. Poisonings have occurred
due to consumption of the leaves and roots but it is the
berries that most commonly cause an issue. If you have
children, be particularly aware of these plants as they
are low down to the ground and a very attractive colour.

bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE | 33

 Woodspurge, Flowers of woodspurge
Feature

Euphorbia amygdaloides
Along with dog's mercury, mentioned earlier in this
article, woodspurge is the other member of the
Euphorbia family native to the UK. It is quite a primitive
plant, with relatively simple flowers which hardly look
like flowers at all. The sap of the plant is milky and
caustic. Like its African relatives, such as the candela-
bra euphorbia, the sap of this toxic plant was once used
to remove warts. You do not want to be handling or
ingesting this plant. In the UK the distribution is a
relatively southern one, but where it occurs it is quite
common. The lower leaves of the main stem are not
dissimilar to the edible rosebay willowherb, or fireweed,
Chamaenerion angustifolium, so if woodspurge occurs in
your area, make sure you can identify it properly.

Yellow Flag Iris,

Iris pseudacorus
Most often, although not exclusively, seen on the edges
of ponds, this plant has long strap like leaves, which are
superficially similar to edible species Typha latifolia and
Typha angustifolia, the cat-tails. The sap of irises can
cause dermatitis on contact with the skin and the roots,
while resembling a hairy sweet potato, are toxic if eaten.
The delicate and obvious yellow flowers make for an
easy differentiator but clearly are not present for most
of the year. The plant can also be differentiated by the
leaf structure. It has a single diamond-shaped rib down
the centre of the leaf, which is otherwise paper-thin.
Typha species, by contrast, have a leaf cross section
which is entirely crescent shaped.
These ten species are widespread and it is highly
likely that some grow near to you, even if you are
living in a town. I have seen poison hemlock growing
in central London on several occasions and many of
the other plants growing in parks. Keep an eye out
for them wherever you live and start to become
familiar with their size, shape and form. This will
provide a good basis for differentiating more useful
and edible species in the future.

Yellow Flag Iris flowers

34 | bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE

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 Fabricating a Recycled
Features
Recycling Stove !
This little project will see us construct a
group-size wood burning stove from
discarded tin barrels. The device
ingeniously recycles the gases emitted
from the combustion process, creating a
very efficient burn whilst leaving little
clue of your presence!
36 | bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE
Author Profile
Fraser Christian is the founder of Coastal
Survival, and a qualified skipper and commercial
fisherman. He is also a fully trained chef and
nutritionist, with a serious passion for wild food,
herbal medicines and outdoor cooking.
Fraser began teaching bushcraft and survival FRASER CHRISTIAN
skills to his local scout group over 25 years ago,
and has subsequently been lucky enough to fish, hunt and forage
professionally. Having recently immersed himself in the philosophy of
“practice what you preach”, he now lives completely off-grid, spending his
days either on the coast or in remote wild woodland, actually living the life
that others teach.
Cooking on an open fire is all well and good unless, of

Features
course, you're worried about somebody seeing the
smoke emitted from the fire. Living off grid, or perhaps
in a military environment, or even a wild camping
situation may mean that the smoke from your open fire
could attract unwelcome visitors, or alert potential
adversaries to your position.

There are a number of ways you can make a device to

reduce or even eliminate smoke. A simple solution is to
form a wood gas stove or wood gas recycling stove as
it's commonly known. After studying the simplicity of
the design of the small tracking/camping types
available on the market, I decided to replicate the design
on a slightly larger scale using some old barrels that are
freely and readily available at my local chip shop (do
please seek permission, as I did, before taking them).

This group-size wood gas stove is perfect for cooking

group stews etc. and for accommodating larger pans.
The wood gas stove not only reduces smoke, but also
substantially increases burning efficiency and is really
simple and cheap to make.

ed:
How to: What you will ne
• 2x large empty
• Strong old knife
(tin) chip oil barr
els

titute for this)

Step 1 l (a nail can subs
• Drill or bradaw
On the first barrel you want to draw a circle on the
bottom of the barrel a few inches (say 63 to 75mm) in
• Hammer
from the edge. • Marker pen es
tant) work glov
• Strong (cut resis
• Tape measure
• String
• Strong wire
• Wire cutters w driver.
eel or large scre
• Sharpening st

Step 2
On the second barrel draw a line just in from the top and
bottom.

bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE | 37

 Step 3
Features
Now we will cut the circle out of the first barrel. I do this
by carefully banging the point of the knife in and literally
cutting down with it as I go (these tin barrels are quite
soft and surprisingly easy to cut with a knife).
Step 4
Now cut the top and bottom off the second barrel - on
the outer edge.
Step 5
Next we cut just inside the inner lip of the first barrel (on
what is the top part of the handle on the opposite end to
where I have just cut the circle out).
38 | bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE
Step 6
To eliminate sharp edges on the circle you have cut out
and to form a lip around the rim to help deflect gases,
take a small log or use the handle of your hammer and
gently tap round the sharp edges. You will find they
readily start to curve over and inwards. Keep tapping
around the rim evenly, rotating as you go, until the edges
are tapered inwards slightly.
Step 7
Do the same with any sharp edges around the inner rims
opposite the circle.
Step 8
We now need to cut the second barrel and form a sheet
that we can form into a cylinder slightly larger than the
circle we cut from the first barrel.
Step 9

Features
Next we use the circle cut from the first barrel as a
guide to how much sheet you are going to need - leave
an extra 50mm/2 inches on each end (or 100mm/4
inches of the total length or circumference of the circle).
This will be used to make them fold back on each other
and form the cylinder to go inside.

Step 10
Cut the second barrel down its length and then again to
remove the section that will not be needed. If you do
not have any wire available, strips can be cut from this
surplus material which, when folded, can be used to
form the wires needed for the final fixing.

Step 11
Before forming the cylinder and fitting it inside the first
barrel we need to make holes a few inches up from the
bottom and a few inches down from the top. We also
need holes around the bottom of the first barrel (which
is now the outside barrel), a few inches up from the
bottom.

Step 13
Now we fold the flat sheet with the holes to the required
circumference, or size of the hole cut out of the first
barrel, to make a tube or cylinder. This should be
slightly larger than the cut-out circle we removed from
the first barrel.

Step 12
The next job is to mark spaces evenly along the top and
bottom edge of the sheet that is to be used to form the
cylinder (laying it over a long piece of flat wood eases
the task). It is a relatively easy process to bang a nail or
push a bradawl through, if you have a drill to hand then
even better, to form a small holes which can easily be
enlarged with a bigger diameter nail etc. I used my Step 14
tapered sharpening steel, although a large screwdriver Turn the first barrel upside down now and insert the
would work equally efficiently. Rotate whichever tool cylinder. Measure the distance across the four quarters
you're using to extend the hole until they are all of the gap between the inner cylinder and outside barrel.
approximately the size of a one pence coin. Then mark holes an inch (25mm) down from the inside
edge of the outside barrels and corresponding points on
the inner barrel quarters.

bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE | 39

 Step 15
Features

Again, using your nail, make holes at the points you

have marked on the four quarters of the inner central
cylinder and the outer barrel. Enlarge these as
necessary to enable the wire (or folded strips of wire) to
be forced through.

Step 16
Cut the strips an inch or so (+/- 25mm) longer than the
distance of the inner gap between the cylinder and outer
barrel and push them through each quarter. Once you
are happy that the inner cylinder is centrally positioned,
fold the ends over.

That’s it!
To light it, do as you would when lighting any fire. Start with small material and gradually increase the size of the
wood as the fire builds in strength. Add a few sticks regularly to maintain heat. Until such time as the cylinder has
built up sufficient heat, you should expect some smoke. Thereafter the cylinder will start to suck the unused smoke
up between the barrels, heating it as it goes and pushing it in from the top and re-burning (how clever!) It is hard to
see the gas jets in daylight, but at night time it really does look spectacular and shows just how much energy is
wasted from the lost smoke/gases of an open fire.

I hope that this all makes sense to you? It is significantly harder to explain the construction technique than it is to
actually make it - I do hope the photos help though. Good luck!

40 | bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE

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Feature
How to Own your
Own Woodland
Bushcraft enthusiasts will no doubt
be familiar with the problem of
finding somewhere suitable to camp
and practise their skills.
Conventional camp sites often
frown upon fire-lighting and the
sight of a bushcrafter on the
next-door pitch skinning a rabbit or
even a squirrel may excite comment
at best and eviction at worst. So, a
small patch of land to call your own
sounds like the ideal solution.
42 | bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE
Author Profile
Woodland owner and writer Judith Millidge is
the Co-ordinator for the Small Woodland
Owners’ Group www.swog.org.uk and is a
regular contributor to Living Woods Magazine.
She edits a monthly newsletter that offers
woodland owners support, news, ideas and
useful contacts. A keen, but inconsistent
Judith Millidge
practitioner of what she preaches, Judith and her family have a small
wood in north Buckinghamshire. Among other things, they have used
their woodland for camping, supplying firewood and as the location for
a music video.
Imagine the feeling: look around you, to the tree canopy
above your head and the shafts of sunlight piercing the
undergrowth as far as you can see. It’s all yours – you
have a woodland of your own and can enjoy it entirely
as you wish. Invite friends if you like, or just roam
around alone and enjoy the peace, the sense of
belonging and of ownership.
In a woodland of your own you can camp wherever you
like or hack back the undergrowth to make the perfect
campsite. You can clear paths and climb the trees or
put up a hammock. You can gather kindling, build a fire,
spot wildlife, forage, build a shelter – the land is yours.
You can stay overnight, gaze at the stars, fall asleep to
the sounds of the forest and poke the embers of the fire
into life as you wake to the grey light of day.
Owning a woodland is a possible dream that is
achievable with a bit of planning and sometimes a bit of
luck. Money is usually a necessary part of the deal too,
of course, but woodland is often a sound investment
and with interest rates so low, what better way to enjoy
your savings?
It was my husband who came up with the idea of
purchasing a wood and at first, I thought he was mad.
However, ‘Why would you want one?’ quickly turned into
‘Who doesn’t want their own wood?’ Potentially, a
woodland is a big adventure playground and for our
10-year old son it was heaven (our teenage daughter
was less impressed, but the nearby mobile phone mast
at least meant that phone reception was good). We’ve
now owned our mixed woodland for ten years and never
regretted the purchase. Our management style can best
be described as light touch, although others might call it
negligible. Time is the greatest challenge to managing
it well, even though it’s only 20 minutes’ drive away. We
have thinned some of the conifer to let the light in on
the broad-leaved species and fight a perpetual battle
with brambles. We’ve camped and enjoyed lots of
barbeques with friends and family, often in return for
Feature
their help. It’s a great stress-buster and you can’t beat
the genuine sense of peace and satisfaction when you
slump in a chair after a hard day’s work shifting logs.
One of the great things about owning a woodland is that
the experience is always more life-enhancing that you
first imagined. You might set out to use it simply for
bushcrafting, but before long you are likely to be drawn
into matters of woodland management and
conservation. Trees grow slowly and woodland owners
are generally in it for the long haul. They want to pass
their woodlands on to the next generation, preferably in
a better state than they found it. Maintenance and
management to ensure the health of the woodland is a
great idea and becomes a source of pleasure. Over
time, owners appreciate the positive impact of their
work: bluebells and wildflowers spring into life when
light is let in on to the forest floor and broadleaf species
flourish when a few trees are thinned around them.
Owners acquire many new talents, such as a flair for
tree and plant identification, chainsaw skills or charcoal
burning. Your own wood is also an unending source of
logs for those with open fires or log burners at home
and a reliable source of timber for green woodworkers.
Your children can run around, building camps and dens
and learning to exist safely in the outdoors.
Anyone can own a woodland, so how do you go
about finding a woodland of your own?
bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE | 43
Feature
Finding a woodland
Britain is undeniably a green and pleasant land, but only
13% is wooded and of that, 72% is in private ownership,
mainly the preserve of large estates and farmers.
Fortunately, plots of woodland are frequently put on the
open market for sale.
Buying a woodland is not a decision to be made lightly.
There are many factors to consider, not least of which is
cost. Price per acre is between about £5k and £12k.
The cost varies according to the region, the location and
the accessibility of the woodland. The tree mix (of
broadleaf and conifer species) also affects the price.
Mortgages are difficult (but not impossible) to obtain on
woodland; woods can be purchased as part of a pension
scheme or from pension-release funds; or you may
decide to invest existing savings. Some people decide
to purchase a woodland jointly with friends.
Next, decide what you want in a woodland. For
example, consider whether you would like access to a
stream or river. How do you feel about a sloping or
steep woodland? What about the mix of tree species?
Conifer woodlands are dark and have more limited
biodiversity than a mixed or broadleaf wood. Do you
really want to be completely alone with no woodland
neighbours, or are you happy to be just a few acres
away from them? Think about the distance between the
woodland and your home – how far are you prepared to
travel each time you visit? Finally, and probably most
importantly, how big does your woodland need to be?
44 | bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE
This last point will inevitably be governed by the money
you have available.
The search for a suitable wood usually starts on the
internet, but don’t forget to keep an ear to the ground
locally. Small patches of woodland are occasionally
sold off by local councils, landowners or farmers, and
they are often a little cheaper than those marketed by
dedicated forestry sellers. Having said that, such
woodlands appear infrequently.
There are several companies dedicated to selling small
woodlands to individuals. Woodlands.co.uk is a
well-established and reputable company which has
been promoting family forestry for more than 20 years.
The company’s website not only lists woodlands for sale
across the UK, but also offers advice, support for
owners and hosts hundreds of informative blogs and
videos.
Try to visit a few woodlands, just to get a feel for the
location and for the differences between them. Some
people feel suddenly overwhelmed by the responsibility
of land ownership, but owning a woodland should not be
an onerous commitment. There is a lot to learn about
history, biodiversity, tree health and long-term woodland
management, but don’t forget that woodlands will
flourish perfectly well without human intervention.
Organisations such as the Forestry Commission,
Woodland Trust, Sylva Foundation and ownership
groups offer a great deal of free help and support.
 Owning your own woodland, however small, is one of
Things to consider before

Feature
life’s great adventures. Like bushcrafters, woodland
owners build up a relationship with the land and in the
purchasing woodland words of one owner, enjoy ‘being part of the woodland
not just a visitor’.
Access.
This is critical. Can you drive a vehicle along a relatively
well-maintained track to access it? If you want to Resources
extract timber, you will need vehicular access, and bear
in mind that it is no fun carting lots of kit along muddy Woodland sellers
tracks on foot on a regular basis. Woodlands.co.uk
Forests.co.uk
Public rights of way. Livingwoodsmagazine.co.uk
Is the woodland bisected by a bridleway or public Onthemarket.com
footpath? Some owners don’t mind this, but if you want Rightmove (search for land)
true privacy, this woodland is not for you.
Finance
Shooting and sporting rights. Ask a financial advisor about buying a woodland as part
Many woodlands have covenants which prevent sports of a SIPP (Self-Invested Personal Pension). Read the
shooting on the land. If sports shooting is your thing, guide here: http://www.woodlands.co.uk/buy-
make sure you research the wood carefully before ing-a-wood/finance/sipp/.
purchase. The Ecology Building Society are a useful source of
advice (and possibly finance). https://www.ecology.-
Covenants on the land which may restrict its co.uk/
usage.
In general, woodland cannot be built on and many Woodland organisations
woods are sold with covenants in place to protect the Small Woodland Owners’ Group – help and advice for
‘quiet enjoyment’ of the land. They may prohibit the owners www.swog.org.uk
establishment of any kind of business. This may seem Small Woods Association www.smallwoods.org.uk
restrictive, but think about it. Do you want the Royal Forestry Society www.rfs.org.uk
neighbouring woodland to be thronged with people Sylva Foundation www.sylva.org.uk
every weekend and the shared tracks backed up with
parked cars? Thought not.

Building.
It is very unlikely that planning permission would be
granted to build a house in the woods. Many woodland
owners install a small shed to store tools, but it is wise
to consult the local planning authorities first. In general,
buildings of any kind are frowned upon, unless you can
prove that the structure is strictly for forestry purposes.
Temporary shelters and structures are not considered to
be a problem.

Camping.
Camping in your own wood is one of the great joys of
ownership, but the law states that you should only do it
for 28 nights each year. Local authorities seem quite
relaxed about this limit if no one is disturbed.

Insurance is a good idea.

Woodland owners should invest in public liability
insurance, just in case.

Legal checks.
Purchasing a wood is like any other property purchase
and is best carried out using the services of a solicitor
or conveyancer who will carry out the appropriate legal
checks and searches.

bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE | 45

 Angled for sharpening on side A
Feature
Razor Shark
Sharp Field Sharpening
By Mark and Helen Hordon (Beaver Bushcraft)
Author Profile
Way back in the 60s an idea began to take root
in the mind of a small boy… it was not the need
for speed, but the need for a Razor Sharp
Cutting Edge! As the years passed, Mark began
to master this elusive art and as the 90s turned
into ‘noughties’ the desire to pass on this
MARK HORDON
knowledge started to take shape. In 2003,
Shark Designs and Beaver Bushcraft were created, as platforms to make
and sell a range of Strops, Sharpening Kits and the perfect Diamond
Sharpening system.
The art of sharpening is an emotive subject with a
bewildering array of techniques, gadgets, jigs,
whetstones and rules! Each methodology and
technique is vehemently defended by its practitioner
with the tenacity of a Honey Badger with a hangover,
guarding his bottle of mead. Each gadget and jig
promises razor sharp perfection with just a few strokes
of the device and a quick flick of the wrist. Whetstones
are manufactured in a bewildering array of materials,
46 | bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE
shapes and styles, designed to bamboozle the average
sharpening neophyte with a medley of mesmerising
mysterious magical artefacts designed to separate his
cash from his wallet. As for the rules … well, they could
fill a library.
Now, it has to be said that the ‘Shark Sharp Freehand
Sharpening Technique’ or ‘SSFST’ for short, is
something I have developed over a number of years to
help some of my customers who year on year, returned
to me and ask if I could please explain some of the finer
points of sharpening that they perhaps missed in
previous years. It took me a while, but the thought
finally struck me that there had to be another way, a
better, simpler way, a more reliable way for people to
sharpen their cutting tools than the traditional way I
was demonstrating … without the need to spend years
honing their skills, without the need to buy expensive
and complex jigs and without the need to invest in a
myriad of whetstones of differing grit sizes, shapes and
materials, without the need to horde a library full of
mysterious sharpening tomes, but most of all, so that I
could have an easier life of it, by giving a system that

was for the most part self-explanatory and reliable.
Developing a sharpening technique that involved the
use of jigs was the biggest no-no for me, since it meant
that you would always be dependent on them. If you
lost or broke your jig, you would be, due to your
dependence on the said jig, up the poo creek without a
paddle, so to speak.
What I wanted was a method that would be inherent to
your being, being part of who you are, a technique that
could be carried around with you at all times in your
mind and in your muscles. For that, the technique
would need to be practiced freehand, free from powered
tools and require the simplest and most reliable
equipment around.
In a nut shell, the Shark Sharp Freehand Sharpening
Technique - SSFST process had to be:
• easily learned
• simple to use
• quick to do
Feature
• efficient
• lightweight and easily carried
• maintenance free
• inexpensive
It also had to:
• last for a lifetime
• have no moving mechanical parts that could not
self-repair
• have no jigs that could become lost or broken
In fact it had to be:
• virtually perfect.
Not much to ask, I hear you say.
Now that I have outlined the objectives of this article I’ll
attempt to convince you that it is indeed worth the
minimal time and insignificant effort to learn and
practice it. When you are convinced that the SSFST way
of sharpening is the best and only technique you’ll ever
need to sharpen all of your cutting tools, I’ll give you my
email address so that you know who to send all of your
donations to!
bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE | 47
 Equipment These four simple items are the ONLY items that you will
Feature

The Razor Shark Field Sharpening Technique involves
the use of just four pieces of simple, inexpensive and
maintenance free equipment, not including a bag to
carry them in. Not to mention the organic
computer-driven mechanical device that can be trained
in the equipment’s use, that is mostly self-repairing
when broken!
Item #1: - A professional quality double sided 1”x 5”
(25 x 125mm) diamond whetstone with high contrasting
grit sized monocrystalline diamonds - 180 grit (76
microns) average sized diamonds on one side and 1,000
grit (7 microns) average sized diamonds on the other - a
diamond whetstone that should last your average Joe at
least 15 to 20 years, if not longer.
Item #2: - A high quality 1” x 5” honing strop that is
made from 1/8” thick (+/- 3.2mm) veg tanned leather on
a solid beechwood platen. Made by Shark Designs, so
you know it’s a quality product!
ever need if you want to employ the Razor Shark Field
Sharpening Technique! Well, apart from some kind of
table or stable platform on which to sharpen your
cutting tools on that is! Since a table, or stable
platform, can frequently be improvised by using things
like a fallen tree, branch or log, a big rock, boulder or
wall, a doorstep, curb or brick, or in an emergency your
leg, (let alone that there is a form of table in just about
every home that ever was or shall be), I shall not include
it in the primary equipment list as stated above. Just as
long as it does not wobble too much and is relatively
stable, just about any platform can be used.
Please note: - Henceforth I shall refer to all ‘cutting
tools’, be they, axes, chisels, knives of every size and
shape including swords, scalpels and machetes, as
either a ‘knife’ or a ‘blade’; you can, of course, substitute
the word ‘knife’ or ‘blade’ with any word that suits your
pleasure without causing the slightest offence to me!

Item #3: - A specially developed diamond lapping fluid

that protects item #1 from rust and acts as medium that
enables the diamonds to cut at 100% maximum
efficiency 100% of the time.

Item #4: - A tube of superfine, 8,000 grit (2 to 4

microns) honing paste that turns an ordinary strop into
a ‘honing strop’ (item #2) that can maintain a Razor
Shark cutting edge on all of your cutting tools for days if Sharpening
not weeks on end.

Sharpening the blade on side A

48 | bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE

The First Principle - Blade Stability
Now, whilst sharpening a knife, the first and the most
important principle that you will need to establish in
your mind is the importance of blade stability - you will
have little to no cutting edge without it, unless you are a
master sharpener that is.
Just to labour the point, if the importance of blade
stability were to be rated from 1 to 10, I would need to
give it an importance factor of at least a 20. This being
the case, I really cannot stress enough just how vitally
important it is that you obtain the very best blade
stability you are capable of obtaining whilst sharpening
your knives. Even to an expert sharpener, it makes the
difference between your knife being just about accept-
ably sharp to it being exceptionally sharp or ‘Razor
“Scary” Shark Sharp!’
Now that I have caused you a barrel full of worry and a
mound of pure apprehension about the importance of
blade stability I’ll try to mollify your apprehensions.
Obtaining blade stability without the use of clamps,
vices or jigs is really not as daunting a task as it might
first appear – it truly is a lot easier than you might think.
Obtaining Blade Stability, the Stability Rule
Using the following simple technique will create the
most stable platform that can be obtained based upon
the fact that we are all made from a composite of
organic flexible materials such as flesh, muscle and
bone. With just a little practice the technique is easily
mastered, and with that mastery, greater and greater
blade stability will be the inevitable outcome.
1) Hold the knife in your non-dominant hand with the
cutting edge pointing upwards.
2) Firmly press the spine of the knife onto the surface of
your chosen sharpening platform; I’ll simply call it a
table from now on.
3) Tilt the knife to the side at about a comfortable 20 to
30 degrees. This side of the blade’s cutting edge is
what we will call side ‘A’, the other side of the cutting
edge is what we will call side ‘B’.
4) Slide the knife’s spine further into the table until your
forefinger presses against the side or edge of the table.
5) Extend the forefinger to the straight position so that it
rests against the edge of the table.
6) This is all there is to the blade stability aspect of
sharpening with this technique. However, in order to
achieve the very best results, it is very important that
you maintain firm yet relaxed pressure on the knife’s
spine in both the forward, as well as the downward
directions as you are sharpening.
The Angle of the Cutting Edge
The angle of the cutting edge is not as important as the
consistency of the sharpening angle you choose.
If you simply remember that:
The ‘steeper’ (i.e. more obtuse) the angle you sharpen
the blade at, the ‘stronger’ that cutting edge will be, but
Feature
this will be at the expense of the cutting edge’s
‘sharpness’.
Whilst conversely the ‘shallower’ (i.e. more acute) the
angle you sharpen the blade at, the ‘sharper’ that cutting
edge will be, but this will be at the expense of the blades
cutting edge ‘strength’.
If you require an exact angle to sharpen your blades to,
then you need to place the blade at 19.9572 degrees to
the horizontal for a filleting edge and 29.8169 degrees
for a boning edge. If you are not so fussy then about 20
to 30 degrees will be fine for most or all of your cutting
needs. You can of course Google it if you want to be a
bit anal about the exact sharpening angles.
In the Other Hand, the ‘Horizontal’ Rule
So what does the other hand do whilst you are holding
the knife in a stable position on the table with the
blade's cutting edge angled to your chosen direction?
Well, for one, it will be holding the diamond whetstone
with the 180 grit side of the stone facing downwards -
after you have dripped a few drops of the lapping fluid
on its surface and smeared all over that surface - in the
‘horizontal’ plane, i.e. horizontal to the surface of the
table that is.
Secondly, the now ‘horizontal’ diamond whetstone and
the hand that is holding it should be slid over towards
the knife and placed on its cutting edge ready to begin
the sharpening process.
To recap then:
1. The blade should be firmly stabilised on a table, with
your non-dominant hand, its cutting edge at the chosen
sharpening angle to the horizontal.
2. The other hand, your dominant hand, should be
holding the diamond whetstone in a horizontal position
whilst resting the 180 grit side on the blade’s cutting
edge.
It really is that simple!
Stabilising the blade
bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE | 49
Feature
The Second Principle – Getting that Burr
Achieving a burr, on side A, is as simple as scrubbing
and rubbing the blade’s cutting edge with the diamond
whetstone until the cutting edge can no longer support
the thinned out steel. This then rolls over to the other
side of the cutting edge (i.e. side B) from the one you
are sharpening (i.e. side A). Got that? The burr can be
felt as thin rolled over sharpish wire by moving the pad
of a finger from the Spine of the knife past the cutting
edge on side B.
Now, whilst this process is quite simple, I am in no way
trying to suggest that it might be a quick process, on the
contrary … it may take you ages, especially since you
must create a burr along the whole length of the blade’s
cutting edge (side A). It is sad to say, but a fact of life
that the time you spend trying to obtain a burr will
depend on a couple of factors:
1) How dull is the knife
2) How hard the steel is that the knife is made from
A sharp knife with relatively soft steel could be fully
sharpened in one or two minutes whilst a knife that is
made from a hard stainless that has a cutting edge that
looks a piece of round bar could take 15 to 20 minutes
to sharpen properly.
TIP: The stronger the burr you can create, the sharper
the knife will usually become.
TIP: Always let the diamonds do the work; there is no
need to overly apply pressure.
50 | bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE
How to feel for a burr on side A
Sharpening
The Critical Elements of Rubbing and
Scrubbing
Rubbing and scrubbing the blade’s cutting edge, with
the 180 grit side of the diamond whetstone, is as easy
as moving the whetstone back and forth, in clockwise or
anticlockwise circles, or from side to side, whatever
takes your pleasure at any given moment. It really is not
important at this stage of the sharpening process, since
we are not trying to create a sharp edge, only a good
strong burr.
It is critical, however, as already stressed (above) that
the blade remains as stable and stationary on the table
as is possible, and that the whetstone is always kept in
the horizontal plane whilst it is in motion and in contact
with the blade.
It is essential that both of these factors are observed if
maximum sharpness is to be achieved.
So, Blade Angle stability (S) combined with Accurate
Horizontal Whetstone Motion (H) will create the
Maximum Razor Sharpness (R).
S+H=R
Sharpening
A Handy Horizontal Tip
A handy tip for holding the diamond whetstone as
horizontal as is humanly possible whilst the whetstone
is in motion, is achieved by using the knuckles of your
whetstone holding hand as a guide. This is done by
allowing the knuckles to make constant contact with
the surface of the table as you rub and scrub the blade’s
cutting edge. Having a good flat shiny table surface
would be the best scenario for this purpose; however,
life is rarely that opportune. Usually, when improvising a
table out in the woods, the surface you choose is too
rough to enable you to use your knuckles as a guide
without causing them damage. To get around this little
problem, you could try placing a low friction flat surface,
such as a book, folded map or even the front of your
phone, if you are careful, on the rough table surface,
thus enabling you to glide your knuckles without
wearing them out. You could, if you had the time and/or
the inclination, carve or flatten a surface where your
knuckles could naturally sit.
Burring Round the Bend
By this I mean obtaining a burr around the belly of the
knife and then onwards towards its point.
I hear you say, “But how do I get a good strong burr
around the belly of my knife towards its point without
breaking the ‘Stability’ and ‘Horizontal’ rules?”
• To maintain the ‘Stability’ rule, you simply pivot the
blade, on the section of its spine that naturally allows
you to bring the belly of the blade upwards away from
the table, whilst, critically, still maintaining the angle you
have chosen between the cutting edge and the
whetstone.
• To maintain the ‘Horizontal’ rule, you simply lift your
hand away from the table to meet the blades cutting
edge whilst – critically – maintaining a horizontal
scrubbing motion.
Feature
Burring Both Sides – The ‘A’ and the ‘B’ of It
Once you have achieved a good strong burr on one side
of the blade’s cutting edge (i.e. on side A), you can then
be assured and most confident that you have met the
blade’s cutting edge on that side of the knife (i.e. side A)
and that you are halfway there to getting a razor sharp
cutting edge. To get the other side of the cutting edge
(i.e. side B) equally as sharp, you will need to create an
equally strong burr on side B of the knife’s cutting edge.
To do this simple flip the cutting edge, along the axis of
the knife’s spine, from one side to the other.
Next add a bit more of the lapping fluid to the 180 grit
side of the whetstone and then scrub away at side B of
the blade’s cutting edge as you did on side A, until a
good strong burr has formed.
When a burr has been made, along the whole length of
side B, you are guaranteed that the whetstone has then
met the blade’s cutting edge on both sides of the knife
and that you will get a potentially razor sharp cutting
edge.
Please Note: - Achieving the burr on side B of the blade’s
cutting edge will often be a lot faster than obtaining one
on the first side.
• So it is advisable to check for a burr often.
• Also, bearing in mind that you want to keep your
blade’s cutting edge as symmetrical as possible, you
should try to scrub the blade about the same amount of
time on each side.
• Also, it is important that you try to copy the same
angle you had on side A as on side B of the knife’s
cutting edge. Often you will find a comfortable angle
that is right and unique to you, one that is repeatable
time after time. If this happens, keep it.
bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE | 51
Feature
Sharpening round the belly of the knife
Refine that Burr Baby!
Once you have achieved a good strong burr first on one
side of the blade’s cutting edge and then on the other,
you will need to significantly reduce, or refine that burr.
This is realised by swapping the 180 grit side of the
whetstone to the 1000 grit side of the whetstone.
In order to achieve a refined burr you will need to:
1) Flip the blade back over to the original side of the
blade’s cutting edge (i.e. from side B back to side A),
making sure that the same angle is established when
you created the first burr. Remember ‘S + H = R’ or
‘Stability of Blade Angle + Accurate Horizontal
Whetstone Motion = Maximum Razor Sharpness’.
2) Turn the diamond whetstone over and then add a few
drops of the lapping fluid to the 1000 grit side of the
stone. Just in case you weren’t paying attention, the
1000 grit side of the whetstone will now be facing
downwards.
3) Repeat the rubbing and scrubbing action, as
described above, until you hear the sound level of the
rubbing and scrubbing diminish to practically nothing -
this should only take a few seconds to accomplish.
Make sure that the whole length of this side of the blade
is scrubbed in this way.
4) Repeat this on the other side of the blade’s cutting
edge, by flipping the blade to from side A to side B.
Since we are trying to refine the burr with the 1000 grit
side of the whetstone, you should notice, when checking
for a burr, that you might not be able to feel it with the
pads of your fingers. In other words you can be assured
that if you have done this part of the sharpening
process correctly there definitely will be a burr present,
52 | bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE
but it may be so refined that you just can’t feel it. If this
is the case it is a very good indication that you are well
on the way to reaching your goal of a razor sharp
cutting edge. If you definitely need to know that there is
in fact a burr present, you can always test for the burr by
scraping the side that you think should have the burr on
down the surface of one of your finger nails to see (and
feel) if it scrapes off a small shaving of nail as you do
so. If it does then you have detected the burr, if not … I
don’t know!
Correcting my Terms
Although I have used the word ‘sharpening’, thus far in
the article, I am really using it in the loosest possible
terms. Now, whilst I understand that obtaining a burr is
technically a part of the sharpening process, what I
really meant by its use was not actually sharpening, but
simply the process of ‘Metal Removal’, with the aim of
creating a good strong burr.
Now to the Sharpening
To actually ‘sharpen’ the cutting edge, we are required to
make two slight changes to the way that we now rub
and scrub the blade, as described above. Sticking to the
1000 grit side of the diamond whetstone and adding a
few more drops of the lapping fluid to clean away the
swarf and flipping the blade back to side A, the process
of creating a razor sharp cutting edge can begin:
1) Now, instead of rubbing and scrubbing the blade with
the whetstone, as we did in the metal removal phase, we
need to become a little bit more sensitive and ease off
the pressure. With this in mind, applying no pressure,
only the pressure obtained from the weight of the stone
itself, carefully wipe the whetstone into the blade’s
cutting edge. This effectively cuts off any remaining
burr that was left over from the 1000 grit rubbing and
scrubbing stage.
2) At the end of each stroke lift the whetstone off the
blade’s cutting edge and wipe the next section of the
blade, until the whole of side A has been wiped by the
whetstone.
3) Flip the blade over to side B and perform steps 1 and
2 on this side of the blade.
4) You should repeat this wiping action on sides A and
then B several times. Applying less and less pressure
with each pass.
Chef Sharp
At this stage of the sharpening game you might well
have obtained a razor sharp cutting edge, one that will
easily shave the hairs on your arm. However,
realistically speaking, obtaining a level of sharpness to
this standard might be asking too much from your first
attempt, without a little bit more practice. Certainly,
though, you could easily expect to have given your knife
a level a sharpness that would more than satisfy your
average chef whilst he, or she, slices and dices. To this
end, when I have sharpened my knives to this standard
of sharpness, I usually refer to it as being ‘Chef Sharp’,
since it should be sharp enough to slice anything in the
kitchen, including the ripest and softest of tomato skins.
Flip the blade over and
sharpen on side B
WIN
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& SURVIVAL DIAMOND
SHARPENING KIT IN
LEATHER UTILITY ROLL Worth £80
Prize donated by www.beaverbushcraft.co.uk
To enter the competition visit:
www.thebushcraftshow.co.uk/competition
The Next Level Then
Feature
Taking the next step to reaching the ultimate in razor
sharp perfection ultimately requires a little bit of
practice. However, we can easily reach the goal of Scary
Razor Shark Sharp by simply introducing a honing strop
to the sharpening process, but that is the subject of
another article.
In Conclusion
To conclude then, it is important for everyone to realise
that it is only through practice that we can make
perfection, so I would advise you all not to be hard on
yourself if you don’t make your knives as sharp as you
think they should be right away.
Reaching your full sharpening potential immediately is
probably not a realistic objective, but by following the
simple principles outlined in this article, you should very
quickly be able to sharpen any, and all, of your cutting
tools, from penknives to machetes, from hatchets to
swords, from axes to chisels, from scissors to secateurs
and from kitchen knives to old scalpel blades, back to
their full Razor Shark Sharp potential with only the four
pieces of equipment stated at the beginning of this
article as well as the knowledge here stated. I have
made a short video of the whole sharpening process
that can be found on our website
www.BeaverBushcraft.co.uk in the ‘Videos and Articles’
under ‘Sharpening Videos by Mark Hordon’.
bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE | 53
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56 | bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE
Feature

Cooking with
Fire Irons
Photographs by Tim and Susannah Gent
Author Profile
Happiest living in a tent somewhere close to
both sea and mountains, Tim paddles and
clambers in search of our remaining wild and
inspiring places, documenting these experiences
so that others might be encouraged to follow. A
very enjoyable role of course, but one also
undertaken in the belief that a better TIM GENT
understanding of these fragile landscapes might
offer the best chance for their survival, and ours.

58 | bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE

 Feature
There are essentially only two ways to hold a cooking vessel above a fire, either
hung overhead, or supported from below. Admittedly, that basic summary does
hide a whole host of variation. Cooking over a wood fire has taken place all round
the globe after all and over many thousands of years. As a result, an
extraordinary variety of tripods, camp cranes, scaffolds, trivets and pole frames
have been developed. Yet while Susannah and I have used quite a few of these
pot holding systems over the years and still enjoy dabbling with both novel and
tried and tested options, when it comes to just heading out there and getting on
with it, we really only employ one – our fire irons.

With only thin stones for props, the fire sits in a slight hollow

bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE | 59

 I admit that for many years I managed to forget all
Feature

about these bare metal rods I’d first used as a lad. Then
one day, staring as you do into the mesmerising ember
glow of a post-dinner fire, the memory of those useful
sooty props just popped into my head. I’m very relieved
it did.

Years of happy fire iron supported camp cooking later, I

was intrigued to find Horace Kephart referring to just
these items in his 1917 book Camping and Woodcraft.
He suggested employing two pieces of flat steel,
PHDVXULQJ[[͓LQFKHVLQIRUPLQJKLVUHDGHUV
that ‘any blacksmith will cut them for you in a minute’.
Sadly, the village blacksmith is a rather rare find these
days, but then I’m confident I’ve improved on even this
very simple design.

When I came to search through a pile of metal offcuts

for something suitable, I discovered two lengths of
angle iron. These were made from mild steel, 3mm thick
and 20mm across each flat - a standard angle-iron size.
As found at the back of a shed these bars were just
under 70cm long, so that’s the length I used. A fair bit of
flame-licked action since then suggests that was about
right. So how do they work?
Well it really couldn’t be much simpler. Once installed
happily at your latest campsite and with a small but
mature fire burning merrily, you need just two stones.
These are usually easy enough to find nearby, the best
being roughly brick shaped, perhaps just a little larger.
Place these on either side of your blaze, sitting just far
enough apart for the irons to bridge the gap, laid parallel
and a few inches apart. Your pot can then rest over the
fire, sat happily on these two stable rails. As so often,
the accompanying photos should explain the system as
well as any description.
A stick placed under the irons at one
end will level things up
With a little foraging, most campsites will produce a pair
of good squared off stones pretty quickly. In the end
though, if these are hard to locate, we’ve found we can
manage pretty well with whatever rock is at hand. The
key thing is that once in place these supports need to be
as stable as possible, with whatever broad flat, or at
least flattish, surface sat uppermost. If you can only
find stones with one good flat side, a slight hollow can
usually be dug in the soil, sand or shingle of your
campsite to take the curved bottom edge. Where you
are really having problems locating the right supports
and only one flat-sided stone comes to hand, the irons
can usually be set with two ends propped wide apart on
the good stone, the other ends sat tight together on
whatever else you can find.

Simplicity itself

60 | bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE

 Feature
You can cook easily with two pots or pans at a time

The suggested diameters of those supporting props is
important though, and whatever you find to use, the
irons need to be set about 5 to 6 inches (12-15cm) or so
above ground level. This should keep the base of your
pot close to the fire, while still leaving room to stoke.
We never use very thick fuel to cook with anyway,
allowing this gap to be kept fairly small.
If you do need to adjust the height of the irons, either
scoop a little soil from beneath the supports, or raise it
up a little. Alternatively, if plenty of good stones are
available, simply substitute what you have for rocks of
the right height. I have to admit, especially once
cooking is underway, I often just slip a section of split
wood under one or both the irons if I need to lift or level
them slightly.
In situations where we just can’t locate the right rocks
and the bare ground isn’t being very helpful either, two
lengths of log, about five to six inches (12-15cm) in
diameter will do just fine. The best lengths of wood are
either green or waterlogged, as being damp, these
shouldn’t catch fire very easily. Besides, they can always
be replaced without much effort should this happen. I
have to admit I far prefer waterlogged logs in these
situations, if only because this avoids having to cut
something living, but I recognise that these can be fairly
rare, especially away from a wet area.

On those very rare occasions when nothing suitable can

be found on the stone front, a little groundwork will
usually save the day. On sand or gravel, even on soft
earth, a shallow elongated pit can be dug and the irons
propped on the ground to either side. Alternatively, two
little banks can be constructed to act as supports.
Often the best approach is a mix of the two methods,
the excavated material pushed into bundles to either
side. Even on hard ground, natural dips can often be
Two rather damp logs, used at the edge
found that will accommodate the fire and hold the ends
of the irons to either side, perhaps with a tent peg laid of a small island where no stones were
alongside the pit edge to raise them a little. available
bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE | 61
Feature
To grill using fire irons, just
slip an old oven shelf on top
Once in action, and because they’re made of angle iron,
our fire irons don’t buckle or bend in the heat (as
Kephart admits his flat bars had a tendency to do). With
the relatively wide flat base offered by this material, they
sit securely on their props too. You can of course use
round rods, such as the steel road pins often seen
holding up orange plastic fencing on the verge. These
too can warp though, and being round in section also
have an annoying and potentially dangerous tendency
to roll around.
Good angle iron fire irons are not just simple to set up,
the stable and roomy rails provide a great platform on
which to cook. They can also be adjusted very easily to
take account of different sized pots. If your cooking
vessel is small, push the irons together a little to sit
62 | bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE
securely underneath. Where it has a broad base, simply
ease the irons apart. And one of the main benefits of
the irons over many other support systems is that by
setting them in a slight V, closer together at one end,
you can hold a big pot at the wider point end while also
cooking in a smaller one at the other.
With the ember bed below the irons encouraged to
develop a slightly extended lozenge shape, mirroring the
line of the props overhead, one end of the fire can be
stoked to be much hotter than the other. Adjusting the
cooking heat inside your pot can then be accomplished
by simply sliding it to one side. You can also simmer in
one pot at the cool end, while still frying properly in a
pan at the other.
If we ever want to grill, the flat surface provided by your
fire irons is also perfect to support a wire oven shelf or
other grilling frame. Just push your irons as far apart as
the props allow and slide your shelf on the stable top.
Not only are fire irons very easy to use, nested together
they also take up very little packing space. Admittedly,
they can be rather sooty though and are therefore best
rolled in a sheet of light canvas for transport.
Unfortunately, much as I love our fire irons, they are
quite heavy. This is absolutely fine when we travel by
canoe, but probably discounts them from use while
backpacking. Then again, cut down in size and
particularly if a slightly lighter grade angle-iron were
used, they might well be light enough. For those times
when we carry everything in a rucksack, I’ve long
hankered after a pair made in titanium, but on the very
Feature
rare occasions where I have found angle rod in this
wondrous material it has perhaps inevitably been scarily
expensive. I suspect aluminium angle bar in the right
grade should work perfectly well though.
Some campers, who’ve read perfectly valid warnings
about using stones near a camp fire, may be concerned
about potential splitting, discoloration, even explosion
when using them as props for fire irons. All I can say is
that following decades of use, we’ve not encountered a
problem. And of course, if the blaze is kept to a sensible
size - and I’ve long argued that no cooking fire needs to
be much larger than the base of the pot you’re cooking
in - the stones should sit clear of any real heat anyway.
Yes, we will see some light sooting of the inner edges at
times, but not to an extent I’ve ever considered a
problem.
Our fire irons can support the weight
of a heavy iron pot with ease
bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE | 63
 With the irons sat close together on
Feature

one prop, and further apart on the

other, two pots of dissimilar sizes can
be supported at the same time

A good stable platform

When not in use over the fire, we’ve found other tasks
for our irons too. Driven into the ground in our tipi,
between our wood burning stove and the sleeping area,
they provide a reassuring heatproof barrier between the
hot steel sides and such vulnerable things as our
sleeping bags… and us. They also make grand
oversized tent pegs. Very useful in soft dry sand, snow,
or wedged down a natural crack in an otherwise
peg-unfriendly stone shelf. Fortunately, I’ve not yet had
call to test my other suspicion, but I reckon they’d make
pretty useful splints if a tent pole or the like ever needed
mending, or should something with nerve endings ever
need immobilising after a mishap.

So there you are, a brief guide to our fire irons. I’m still
wracking my brains trying to remember who showed me
how to use these wonderful and simple items of kit as a
boy. Whoever it was, they have my thanks.
Now I just have the tricky job of choosing a sensible
selection of fire iron photos from the many hundred I
have stored away.
64 | bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE
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Feature

Budget Mukluk Liners

Hi guys and welcome to this issue’s
Bushcraft on a Budget article. In this
issue I am continuing with my wool
garment theme, but this time its
footwear I’m looking at.

Some time back a friend helped me out

by giving me a pair of Mukluk boots. So
thanks to Gray Durgan for the boots and
I hope you appreciate the liners I’ve
made for them. I am looking forward to
February 2018 when all this homemade
kit I’ve been showing you will be put to
the test with a winter trip to Sweden. I
am going with Danny Hodgson and
Adam Logan, two very good friends
whom I have worked with through
Woodland Ways. Adam is senior
instructor at Woodland Ways and
Danny who was an instructor has
recently left to follow new paths and
Author Profile
'Make do and Mend' is Ian's Philosophy. He is a
dreams. This will be a ‘busman’s’ holiday dab hand at all things creative, and would be a
match for any skilled seamstress! His innovative
as they say, because this is just a group of ideas can save you pounds, showing you how to
make kit from things that you might find lying
mates going on holiday together but we around. He also has a long-standing interest in
IAN NAIRN
will be living the skills we teach on a and extensive knowledge of woodcraft and
green woodworking, which, combined with his other skills, makes for some
daily basis and putting our skills and great money-saving tips!

crafts to the test in the environment

they were designed for.

“As wilderness rambler William Brooks Cabot observed at
the turn of the century. The tale of the winter trail is the
tale of one’s feet. For thousands of years, native people
have used a soft smoke-tanned moccasin for the deep cold
RCTVQHVJG[GCTYJGPVJGUPQYKUFT[
VYGPV[ƒXGFGITGGU warm. The secret to them being so warm is that they
Fahrenheit and below). The secret to the warmth of these
moccasins is simple. All layers of the footwear are
breathable. Since the moisture the foot naturally produces
RCUUGUSWKEMN[VJTQWIJVJGRQTGUKPVJGOQEECUKPUGXGT[
layer remains dry.” Excerpt from A Snow Walker's
Companion by Garrett and Alexandra Conover
Mukluks (or Kamik as they are known by Inuit people)
are a soft boot traditionally made of reindeer skin, or
sealskin. They were originally worn by Arctic aboriginal
people, including the Inuit, Inupiat and Yupik. The word
mukluk finds it origin in the Inupiat word 'maklak',
meaning bearded seal. Nowadays it is often used for
any soft boot designed for cold weather and modern
designs are often similar to high-top athletic shoes.
66 | bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE
The mukluks I have are Canadian military boots
designed for temperatures lower than minus 10. They
are canvas boots with rubber soles and are VERY roomy
so that you can wear multiple layers to keep your feet
are breathable and allow all the moisture that your feet
produce to pass through to the outside, as stated above.
This way your feet don’t become damp with sweat as
this will make them cold very quickly. When Danny and
Adam went to Sweden this year they both wore
moccasins that they had made especially for the trip
and they were amazed at how well these “primitive”
footwear items worked. Even modern-day snow boots
struggle to compete with the effectiveness of
traditionally-made mukluks. In their book A Snow
Walker's Companion, Garrett and Alexandra Conover
explain that traditional mukluks are still the best option
for trekking in snow at low temperatures. I highly
recommend this book to anyone wanting to know about
travelling in snow.
 Feature
1. Felt insoles 2. Drawing round insoles 3. You need 4 of these

4. Ready to make an insole 5. Drawing the boot 6. Footbed ready

sandwich
There are many, many varieties and brands of mukluks
on the market now, some that are basically just slippers
for around the house. If you want a pair for Arctic travel
please do your research and choose wisely, or make
your own.

Anyway, the mukluks I received are designed for arctic

use and they came with two felt insoles in each boot so
I have used one of each of these to form the foot bed for
my liners. To start with I took the felt insoles and drew
around them onto my wool material (leftovers from the
shirt project two issues back). I needed four of these as
my idea was to make a felt insole sandwich with the
wool. So I drew four and then cut them out. Notice that
I have drawn them about 1cm wider all round than the
insole. This is to account for the seam when sewn
7. Overlocking stitch together, as I still want the felt insole to fit in between
the wool layers, you’ll see why later.

I took my four wool insoles to the sewing machine and

placed two together and started to sew around the
edges. The stitch I am using is an overlocking stitch,
this aids the lamination process and helps prevent the
wool fraying. If you look at the photo you will see I
haven’t sewn all the way round, this is because I wanted
an opening where I could remove the felt insole to help
wash or dry it out should the need arise. With both foot
beds done I moved on to the boot section.

8. Felt insoles removable

bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE | 67
Feature

9. Boot pinned to footbed 10. Trying the fit

11. Sewing the boot 12. Boot sewn, you need 2

I have to admit I made a mistake on this and had to start of being able to insert and remove the felt insoles would
again, so when you do yours be sure to make your boot work… I had to slightly roll up the felt insoles to squeeze
longer than your sole because it has to be sewn around them in through the opening but it worked a treat. They
the insole and therefore needs to be longer, about ½” went in and flattened out nicely and I can take them out
(12mm) an inch either end worked well. To get the right without too much fuss at all. I haven’t put any fastener
size for your boot part simply draw around your foot and on the top of the legs as these will simply fold over and
ankle onto your material, now add about 2” (50mm) all lie against my shin.
round apart from under the sole of your foot. You
should have what looks like a Christmas stocking-type
design when done. Make sure the sole part of your boot
is about 1” (25mm) inch longer than the insole you just
made. You will need four of these. To make sure they
were a good size I pinned the boots and the foot beds
together and tried them on for size. Don’t forget you will
be wearing at least two pairs of chunky socks under
these, so make sure there is plenty of room and they are
not tight anywhere, these tight spots will become cold
spots.

Once I had sorted that out I could sew the boots

together down the back edge and half way up the front
edge, I started both of these from the bottom and sewed
up the leg. With this done I pinned them to the foot
beds and then started to sew them together, paying
special attention not to sew up the opening that allows
the felt insole to be removed. This was a bit tricky but I
managed to complete both without too much fuss.
Again, when done I tried them on to make sure they 13. Footbed and boot sewn together
were the fit I wanted. So now to see if my cunning plan
68 | bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE
 Next to try them on inside the mukluks. I first put the
liners on my feet and then my feet into the mukluks, but

Feature
this didn’t work too well as the wool liners all bunched
up. I took them off and put them in by hand and after a
bit of repositioning they were in place. I then put on the
boots. Lovely and comfy and very warm (well I was
indoors at home and not in a tent). I knew that any
added insulation I could get would help, so I decided to
make a couple more insoles that would go inside the
boot liners I had just made. I found the remnants of an
old sheepskin jacket, I removed the felt insoles that
were in the bottom of the boots and drew around these
onto the leather side of the sheepskin coat. I then cut
out two nice sheepskin insoles that would go inside the
liners with the sheep fleece side up and leather side
down. I put these in and then put the boots on again. I
honestly don’t think my toes have ever been warmer in
boots.
14. Ain’t they purdy?
I have possibly one more item to make which will be a
woollen hoodie and I want to pimp up my Swedish snow
smock with some fur trimmings, but I think that should
do me. It will be good to compare modern technical kit
with traditional homemade kit to see how they fare and
the pros and cons. Temperatures on my trip in February
are expected to be about minus 20°c or lower, the colder
the better!

I hope you have enjoyed this and my other previous

articles on woollen clothing. I promise I will report back
honestly with how they perform whilst I'm away. If you
have had a go at making any of these then please send
in photos of your garments and also please let me know
how well you think your traditional kit works compared
to modern technical kit. All the very best for the coming
season, have a great Christmas and I look forward to
seeing and hearing from you guys in the New Year.

15. Going in the Mukluk All the very best and don’t forget, keep your bushcraft on
a budget.

16. Sheepskin insoles

17. VERY toasty toes

bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE | 69
BOOK REVIEW
The Urban
by Max Bainbridge
Woodsman
Craftsman Max, alongside his partner Abigail Booth,
runs Forest + Found, where he works with sustainably
sourced and reclaimed wood to hand carve and turn
bespoke kitchen and homeware. Sharing his creative
abilities, he has written this guide to carving spoons,
bowls and boards.
The first chapter covers sourcing materials, something
that’s relatively easy for those living in, or near, the
countryside, but more of a challenge to those living in
an urban setting. It’s followed by guidance on
choosing wood, wood types and its storage.
Max uses both green native wood and also recycled
timber and each has its own properties. Some woods
are toxic and although not many of our native species
fall into that bracket, reclaimed material may be much
more exotic in origin. Max recommends using the
website www.wood-database.com to solve this which
is worth knowing, as toxicity of wood is a topic I've
seen regularly on online bushcraft forums.
REVIEW
After sections on the tools that will be required and a
good number of knife grips (cutting techniques), the
book embarks on eight straightforward but rewarding
projects. Each is demonstrated with step by step
instructions, which are easy to follow and make the
finished item seem entirely achievable.
Of course, making something out of wood is not the end
of the story and the book then demonstrates various
finishes to enhance and preserve the appearance of
your work, before concluding with those very important
subjects of tool care and maintenance.
This book is easy to read and makes starting out
carving spoons and bowls seem a very approachable
prospect for the inexperienced. Some of the more
traditionally minded might eschew the use of power
tools, as shown here, but for the beginner I think it is
sensible.
The photographs illustrate the steps of the various
instructions and projects and are beautiful in their own
right. Indeed a few are there just to show the beauty of
wood, bark etc.
In the past, I have made the odd attempt at carving
spoons and whilst functional, they have looked like
spoons in the same way a zebra looks like a racehorse.
I would definitely have been better had I read this book
first! With that in mind I would very much recommend
this as a book to provide a starting point for the novice
spoon and woodcarver seeking guidance and
inspiration.
Author Profile
Walking, camping, fishing, geocaching,
investigating plants and animals and just
wombling in the woods are all things you will
find Chris Eyles doing whilst trying to pass his
love of the outdoors on to his young son, who
often proves better at them than his dad. CHRIS EYLES
Chris also aspires to write a book for children
about the folklore of trees.
WIN A Copy of
This Book
Email: competitions@bushcraftmagazine.com or post
in your details for a chance to win. (See T&Cs Page 3)
bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE | 71
Feature

Cordage
in the Wilderness
The skill of producing bindings or cordage is often overlooked as a necessity when travelling in
wild places. In the modern world our reliance on thread is hidden within our clothing, or visible
on our shoes, but under most circumstances that is as far as it goes. We have glues and mouldings,
pre-formed plastics and wire, bungees and ratchet straps all connecting one item to another.
These are usually hidden from view, tied beneath a cover, connecting under a panel… we don’t
see them, so they are not part of our perceived world. Here in Part 1 we are going to look at some
different sources of bindings and then in part 2 we are going to look at the numerous ways of
creating cordage.

If you are regularly taught, or teach, solely in the UK you

Author Profile
Jason Ingamells is the owner and lead instructor
at Woodland Ways, the UK's largest provider of
bushcraft courses. He also runs the Woodland
Ways Bushcraft Foundation, a charity
supporting tribal peoples. He takes pride in
learning the skills of our ancestors and leads a JASON INGAMELLS
large team of instructors teaching to the highest
standards, both here in the UK and overseas. Jason is a highly skilled
woodsman and overseas adventurer, these skills have been gleaned and
honed through extensive personal experience in real circumstances.
It is only when modern materials let you down, or you
are taken out of your environment, that you realise how
important the skill of sourcing and then producing your
own cordage or bindings is.
72 | bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE
can be a master of that immediate world. Take yourself
out of that particular environment and things look
different. This is why my trainee instructors have to
travel overseas with me. In the UK you are generally in a
fixed camp setting, your cooking cranes are already built
and in situ and you probably did this once and some
years back. You will place your hammock or tarp in
“your spot”, tying off your guy lines to the pegs that you
have made or to those trees. Your feet are snug in your
boots neatly tied, with possibly a spare set of footwear
in the car and you can take your rucksack from the boot
and carry it down to the campfire… life is good,
everything is in its place and you feel “at home” in the
woods.
Now let’s transport ourselves to the wilderness of a
journey in the boreal forests. Each night you arrive at a
different camp, in order to cook and use fuel efficiently a

1. Drawknife, now ready to 2. Draw around the blade
make a pattern carefully
new cooking rig is required, a new withy to be made
from birch in order to hold your cooking pot, a tripod to
be lashed, a clove hitch will do the job. There are no
pegs for your tarp, indeed this campsite has no apparent
anchor points, but a close look around shows if you
twist all of those heather stems together you can attach
your guyson
4. Add with an extra
the adjuster
forknot.
the That shoulder strap on
the rucksack has just been wrenched from its seam…
welt
you knew you should have spent that extra £20 on the
better one. Better start looking for some binding
material to plait.
Now let’s shoot over to the South African Bush… “I need
all of your bashas in a straight line please to ensure the
night watchman has clear and safe arcs of fire”, one
long line of twisted material should do it. Or how about
we head to the frozen mountains, where woven raw hide
can supply an emergency binding for some improvised
snow shoes, although I know that in its raw state it will
The edge well protected
Feature
3. Mark where the tangs start
become loose.
You see, an understanding of different fibres available,
both that you may carry or indeed find and make from
the natural world could be critical. Equally an
understanding of how they interact with the
environment and what timesback
6. The of year
cutthey
outare best to
harvest, means you can traverse such wilderness places
comfortable in the knowledge that you can adapt and
overcome. This is a key strength of any Bushcraft
Instructor or Practitioner.
So here I have outlined some different materials we can
source and their application. There is a world of
difference between making a net out of natural fibres
and binding a cooking rig. I therefore separate these
two skills out broadly speaking into rough bindings
(where one item needs to be fastened to another with
little processing) and cordage, where more processing is
involved.
bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE | 73
 grasp the stem and twist it away from the body. Now
Rough bindings
Feature

without letting go of that tension slide your lower hand

down a fraction. Keep the tension and place your
In this category I would include twisted saplings, roots,
uppermost hand in the place where your lower hand was
and some inner bark lashings.
and twist again. If there are still leaves and side shoots
on the sapling then you may find by leaving them on
Twisted saplings they provide your hands with a good amount of
Probably one of the most accessible bindings - available
purchase, on a cold winter's day then a stout pair of
12months of the year if you know what to look for and
leather gloves will help also.
the environmental conditions are not extreme (e.g.
frozen).
Keep twisting and moving down inch by inch. It will be
easier to begin with, but as you move down to the
The young stems or branching shoots of trees such as
thicker end of the stem it will become progressively
birch, willow, ash and hazel can be twisted to produce
harder. Listen out for popping noises as the fibres
rough bindings. Look out for withies that are smaller
within the stem begin to separate. As you progress your
than the thickness of your thumb, as long as possible
movements down the stem your actions may resemble
with few side shoots or kinks. Making withies is most
trying to start an old car with the crank shaft at the
definitely easier during the Spring through to Autumn
front.
when the sap is moving, however with practice it is still
possible in the winter. You need to get hands on with
If done correctly you should now be able to cut the stem
this technique and there may be a bit of trial and error,
away from its base by bending over the sapling at a
but if you persevere you will find you can separate the
steep angle, stepping to the left-hand side (if you are
fibres out to reshape and use as a binding.
right handed), and slicing through the stem with your
knife. Once the fibres have popped you will not have to
With the sapling/side shoot in situ start at the top/
keep the tension and will find your withy provides a
thinnest end and wrap both of your hands side by side
flexible binding, which is easy to use.
around the main stem. Then twist both of your hands IN
THE SAME DIRECTION. Most people find it easiest to

Withy incorporating a hook to support cooking pots Starting a birch withy

Tripod lashed with withy to filter Using withies to bind saplings for a traditional
water in Sweden sweat lodge

74 | bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE

 Roots

Feature
An often used go-to material all year round are spruce
roots, but other roots will suffice. I have used the roots
of beech trees for bindings before, but if you are in a
coniferous area and the ground is not frozen solid then
you will have an abundance of material. In Scandinavia,
where spruce is common, it can sometimes be as
simple as peeling back the over layer of moss and then
placing your hands into the mesh of rootlets and
selecting the longest and most pliable one you can find.

Make sure you do actually get the spruce root rather

than the other woodier shoots of say the heather.
Rather than pulling directly on the root, the technique to
use is to use your fingers to trace its path through the
earth for as far as you can or until you reach the desired
length, then make a clean cut with your knife. You
should only gather a small quantity from one tree to
avoid too much of a detrimental impact resulting from
your foraging. It is also important to cover up the
remaining rootlets with the excavated material to
prevent them drying out and dying.

Digging for spruce roots Spruce roots used to bind Spruce roots used to stitch
various craft projects bark craft

For binding purposes all roots benefit from having their

outer bark removed. For hardwood trees, you may need
to boil them up and then run the root through a split
stick. Another technique is to place the root on a block
with the spine of your knife pressing gently down on top,
then pulling the root backwards to remove the bark. It is
important to remove the bark for a neater project as
when the root dries out the outer bark will dry at a
different rate to the root proper and so your binding will
loosen over time. If it's a quick rough binding you need
then there is no need to do this. You can see the effect
of the bark peeling in the picture here.

Thinner roots can be used as they are as a rough

binding, or twisted or plaited (see Part 2) to make a
wider, thicker and therefore stronger cord. Thicker roots
can be split down depending on use. For bindings that
need to lay flat against a surface, for example in the
birch containers below, they can be split and used in
Spruce roots plaited half so that one edge is flat. You can however split
without bark removed them in numerous possible ways.

Again, this material is in plentiful supply 12 months of

the year, as long as you can reach them. They can be
used immediately or coiled and stored dry for future
use. Once dried, if you then want to use the roots, soak
them in warm water to make them pliable.
bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE | 75
 Inner barks
Feature
There are a number of different barks that can be used
for rough bindings, they can also be processed down
further to make finer cordage. Some examples that
spring to mind quickly due to their ease and abundance
are willow, elm and lime. Removing the bark is best
done from Spring through to Summer where you can
harvest good long lengths. I have also removed bark in
smaller lengths in the Autumn, but with varying degrees
of success.
Please note that removing the bark from a tree, if done
completely around the circumference of the stem, will
kill the tree and so is not a decision that should be taken
lightly. However, even removing smaller sections of bark
will still have a major effect on the health of the tree,
affecting its ability to transport water and nutrients
whilst also exposing it to bacterial infection, therefore
only take what you need. If you can harvest from a
freshly fallen tree this is better, or only harvest from an
area where there is an abundance of the species
concerned. Be sensitive to the needs of wildlife, and
also the needs of other humans who enjoy wild places
without bark scars being left everywhere!
Turning your knife into a reverse grip, with the blade
facing away from you slice the bark open in a straight
Lime cordage and lime
plaited for loop on birch
Rolling the nettle stem
container Opening the stem
line. You can then either prize the bark away from the
thicker end of the stem using your fingers, or a stick that
has been carved with a chisel end.
5RGEKGUURGEKƒEKPHQTOCVKQP
(QTVJGYKNNQYDCTM[QWECPPQYUETCRGVJGVJKPITGGP
QWVGTDCTMCYC[HTQOVJGKPPGTYKVJVJGDCEMQH[QWTMPKHG
VJKUECPVJGPDGUGVCUKFG+H[QWCFFVJKUQWVGTDCTMVQ
DQKNKPIYCVGTCNQPIYKVJCEQWRNGQHJCPFHWNUQHCUJHQT
CDQWVOKPWVGU[QWECPIGPVN[DQKNVJGOVQRTQFWEGC
FCTMDTQYPF[G
(QTNKOGVJGDCTMECPDGHWTVJGTRTQEGUUGFVQRTQFWEGXGT[
ƒPGEQTFCIGD[RNCEKPIKVKPUNQYOQXKPIYCVGTHQTCDQWV
YGGMU6JGƒDTGUYKNNVJGPUGRCTCVGQPEGFTKGFCPF
TGUQCMGF
76 | bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE
Lime bark fibres ready
or processing
Lime cordage
for loop on
birch container
Fibres
For finer bindings there are a huge variety of plant fibres
available and a wide variety of twists and plaits. There is
not enough space to list them all, but we can look at
some of the more common ones here.
Stinging nettle - Urtica dioica. No article on
cordage would be complete without mention of this
wondrous plant. We are blessed to have such a plant
available to us here in the UK and whole volumes have
been written on this plant alone. For the purposes of
cordage its abundance, ease of harvesting and length,
make it a go-to plant. Best gathered from the early
summer where the lengths are at their best and the
plant has not become too woody, you first need to
harvest the stems. This can be done with leather gloves
or a firm grasp to avoid a sting (it's usually the nettle
next to the one you are harvesting that will get you)
Removing the pith
and a slice of yo ur knife. Next, remove the side shoots
and leaves, take a firm grasp with your hand and then
squash the stem flat. I prefer to roll a small stick over
the stem rather than hitting it with a rock or base of a
knife as this way you will not crush up as much of the
fibres.
Once the stem has been flattened, stick your thumb into
the stem and run it up along the length to open it out.
Then every few inches make a fold which should break
the inner woody pith and work your way up removing the
pith, a section at a time. Due to the four-sided composi-
tion of the stem you will find that the flattened outer
fibres will easily now separate into two or four strands.
Nettle fibres, as with most plant fibres, will benefit from
being dried and re-soaked. As with the roots and their
bark, this is due to inconsistent drying separating your
cord.

Brambles - 4WDWUHTWVKEQUWU (or other similar prickly
shrub). Often overshadowed in the cordage sense by
nettles, brambles make adequate cordage and can be
gathered in much higher quantities, with longer lengths!
The process for preparing the stems is exactly the same
as with nettles, although the thorns can tear a leather
glove to shreds and so pulling then underneath your
boot, or the back of a knife will be more efficient.
Rosebay willowherb - %JCOCGPGTKQP
CPIWUVKHQNKWO Again, this is mostly overlooked and
considered more for the use of its seed heads for
firelighting. This plant makes a superb cord, although
harvesting the fibres is more time consuming as it has
smaller lengths.
Cattails/Reedmace - 6[RJCCPIWUVKHQNKC The leaves
can be harvested and easily split into half and half again
until you have the desired width. They make very good
and strong cordage if you spend the time getting your
lay right.
Cattail fibres corded
There are a huge number of materials that we can use
that we can find in the natural environment, but that
doesn’t mean we should discount items that we can
carry with us. I never leave for a wilderness
environment without my trusty gaffa tape! This has a
multitude of uses from first aid to emergency repairs.
Twisted up it also provides meters and meters of strong,
trusty cordage. That's without talking about using
ripped up survival bags, clothing or of course, paracord
itself.
Feature
Dried nettle stems
Honeysuckle bark - usually gathering the dead
shedding fibres will result in fairly short lengths of
inconsistent thickness, therefore a lot of time should be
spent grading your fibres.
Rawhide - this makes an exceptional binding and can
be produced relatively easily. When used wet the
rawhide will constrict and make your binding more
secure. However, caution should apply as the same
happens in the opposite form and so bindings will
become loose again if wet. To counteract this on snow
shoes I have applied varnish before and on a rucksack
frame I applied birch oil.
Sinew - again makes for an incredibly strong cord and
does not have to be laid in any way once dried and
separated out into individual fibres by pounding. The
most extravagant sinew I have ever used was from a
llama, which generated metres and metres of fibres,
although most sinew from most large game is worth
gathering. Back sinews are generally longer and leg
sinews are stronger. I have even used the baleen
salvaged from a Pilot whale to make cordage.
Raw hide lacing on
bark container
Arm yourself with knowledge. In part 2 we will look at
how to take some of the above raw materials and
process them into cordage, lashings and bindings.
bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE | 77
 Making a
Feature

drawknife sheath
We thought that it would be a nice follow on from the last issue, where we
refurbished a drawknife from a rusty lump to a wonderful woodworking tool, to
show you how to go about making a proper high quality leather sheath for it. The
quick wooden blade cover is totally functional but in time it would wear and it
doesn’t look all that nice. You can also use these techniques to make similar
sheaths for other woodworking tools that you may need to protect.

Author Profile
Ben and Lois Orford live and work from their
home in Herefordshire. With their backgrounds
in green woodwork and traditional woodland
crafts they make a range of handmade
woodcraft tools, bushcraft knives and
leatherwork for the discerning outdoors BEN & LOIS ORFORD
enthusiast. Their combined experience and
passion for their craft makes them keen to pass on their knowledge and
skills.

78 | bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE

 The edge well protected

Feature
1. Drawknife, now ready to 2. Draw around the blade 3. Mark where the tangs start
make a pattern carefully

4. Add on the extra for the 5. Use the front to mark out 6. The back cut out
welt he back of the sheath

Firstly, it is best to tape up the edge of the drawknife to
make sure you don’t cut yourself when you make the
pattern. You will need some cardboard to be able to
make a template from (all your old cereal packets make
great recycled pattern material). With the blade taped
you can then use a pencil to mark out the shape of the
blade. You need to add about 10mm extra around the
blade profile to allow for the welt. This is an extra piece
of leather that will be added in the sandwich of the front
and back of the sheath, which allows the stitching to be
protected by the leather and prevents the sharp blade
cutting the stitches. One thing to note is that the welt
can only go up each side until it makes contact with the
tangs of the drawknife. Otherwise, if you take it all the
way up to the top of the leather you will stop the
drawknife from going down into the sheath.

bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE | 79

Feature
7. Check the fit
You can decide how high you would like the leather to
come up the front of the blade. We have decided to
make the leather travel all the way up so that there is
leather protecting the whole front of the drawknife. This
will make it easy to position the poppers (or snaps) that
we will use to keep the case closed and will also give a
good solid case.
With the front template drawn out, cut it out with some
scissors. You can then use this template to help make
the other two parts of the template, which will consist of
the welt and the back. Lay this on to some more
cardboard and draw around it, then draw the extra
material for the folding part of the sheath that will bend
over the top of the drawknife and then fold over the
front. You will need at least 10mm of extra material to
fold over the top as well as the amount that you require
10. Use a knife or scissors to cut the leather
11. The front and back cut out
80 | bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE
8. Adjust the pattern if needed
9. Mark out the pattern on
the leather
to come down over the front. Mark it and cut it out, then
add the blade again and test the pattern and trim any
extra material that you have. It may take a few attempts
but it is much better to waste scrap cardboard than
leather, it is also a lot easier to cut too!
When you are happy that you have a pattern that will
work, mark it onto the leather with a pencil. It is
important at this stage that you think of which side of
the leather will be shown on the finished sheath.
Leather has a smooth outside and a fluffy inside - we
normally mark on the outside face so we can check for
marks and scratches. Also look for the nicest grain in
the leather, so make sure you position the template
accordingly.
10. 11.
Using a ruler and sharp knife, (or some leather scissors
if you prefer), cut very neat straight lines to cut out your
three parts. Once these are cut, it is worth using some
spring clamps or bulldog clips to temporarily hold it
together while you try the drawknife in the sheath.
Make sure that you have enough leather and that it folds
over easily, then make any adjustments accordingly. It
is also a good time to work out where the first part of
the poppers will be positioned. You will need to fit these
before stitching it together, as you will not be able to
punch the holes or hammer the snaps into position
afterwards. Make sure when you place the poppers that
you position them so they are above the cutting edge as
much as possible to prevent the edge getting damaged
on the metal parts.
12. Use an awl to mark out the welt

13. All parts ready 14. Clamp together and test
16. Punch the holes for the 17. Bevel the edges
poppers
19. Fit the snaps 20. Use an anvil and hammer
22. Clamp up and leave to dry 23. Trim the edge
You can then take the sheath to pieces and punch the
holes for the poppers to pass through. You normally put
the male part on the front of the sheath and the female
cup part on the front flap of the sheath. You may need
to thin the leather slightly if the stem of the snap is too
short. It is a good idea to use a crook knife to scoop
some leather away on the insides of the sheath anyway,
to try and sit the metal popper into the leather. This will
help to protect the edge of the drawknife as much as
possible.
With the leather in bits we can chamfer some of the
Feature
15. Make sure the front flap
folds over
18. Dye the edges
21. Apply glue to the welt
24. Mark out the stitching holes
edges with an edge beveller as it will be harder to get to
the inside edges when it is stitched together. We also
decided to add a decorative line on the sheath to make
it look nice. Once it is all bevelled, you can use some
leather dye to darken the edges and seal them by
rubbing them with a scrap of canvas.
You can then fit the first half of the poppers making sure
you support the backside on an anvil or something hard
to stop them bending. Next, using the welt you have
made, draw around it on the inside of both the front and
back of the sheath where it is going to go, as this will
bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE | 81
 show you where to apply some contact adhesive. Apply You can then thread two needles with a long length of
Feature

the glue to the one side of the welt and one half of the thread and start to stitch, we are using saddle stitch
sheath first and stick it in place. Repeat on the other which we have showed you how to do in a previous
side. You can then use some clamps to hold it all in issue, which is the best way to stitch leather together
place until it is dry. for maximum strength and durability. Pass one needle
through and find the middle of your thread, then using
When the glue has dried remove the clamps and using a one needle pass through from one side then place the
sharp knife clean up the edges making sure that all other needle through from the other side and pull tight,
three parts become one crisp edge. You can even use
repeat the process and keep going all the way along
some sandpaper to smooth it up more if you want to.
your stitch line. You will need to double back a few
Then mark a pencil line for the stitching, this wants to
stitches when you have finished to help stop it from
be about in the middle of the welt so if your welt was
10mm deep then mark a line 5mm in from the edge. coming undone and then cut off any excess thread.
Then use an overstitch wheel to mark out the stitches.
If you don’t have one of these then you can use a ruler,
or Vernier gauge, or even a fork to keep the stitches
regular.

With the stitching marked out use an awl and a block of

cork to push through the three layers of leather to make
a hole for the needle. Some people prefer to use a very
fine drill in a pillar drill. Using an awl is best however, as
the leather will seal up around the thread when you’re
25. Use the awl to make 26. Thread prepared
finished. Push the awl through all the stitch marks the holes
trying to keep them as square and regular as possible.
The topside will always look the best so make this the
side you mark and push the awl through.

27. Starting to stitch

28. Saddle stitch

29. All stitched together

30. Marking the front poppers 31. Punch the holes in the 32. Applying some mink oil
middle of the mark

82 | bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE

Then clean up the edge of the outside and try the

Feature
drawknife in the sheath. Make sure it is all the way in
and then fold over the top, pushing the back to create
the fold and with it closed in place, push down hard on
top of the poppers. This will mark the position where
you need to punch the hole for the top part of the
popper. If you have a logo or mark, now is the time to
push it into the top flap. Take out the drawknife and
punch a hole right in the middle of the mark you should
now have on the inside of the top flap, then fit the last
two halves of the poppers.

Finally, dye the remaining edge and seal the whole

sheath with some leather balm. We use Golden Mink Oil
which will seal and help make the sheath waterproof,
rub plenty into the stitching too and it will help seal the
awl holes. You can now try the drawknife into your new 33. Put your logo on it
sheath and try to close the flap, you may find it a little
stiff to start with, but after a little use the leather will
break in and become more supple. You now have a
fantastic leather sheath that will last a long time and
protect your restored drawknife from damage (and you
from getting hurt!)

We hope you have enjoyed the restoration project and

learning how to make a sheath to suit. You should be
able to use this same method for other woodworking 34. Make sure it all fits 35. Inside of the sheath
and bushcraft tools that often don’t come with a sheath,
well certainly not a lovely hand stitched leather one!

36. The finished drawknife and leather sheath

bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE | 83
REGULAR

The Bushcraft Quiz

Q1. With what disease is the Borrelia burgdorferi
bacteria associated?
Q2. What are the names of the two pointer stars of The
Plough, used for locating Polaris?
Q3. What name refers to Dutch settlers in South Africa
who moved inland away from British rule in the 1830s.
The term translates as ‘ahead pullers’?
Q6. Chamerion angustifolium is the Latin name for this
plant of many uses, including natural cordage, firelight-
ing, food and medicine. It is known in English by what
name?
Q7. Which three words sum up the Countryside Code?
Q8. Lights is a term used to describe a food item, but
what food?

Q4. The Khoisans, an indigenous tribe of Bushmen in
the Cederberg region of South Africa, harvested the
leaves from the Aspalathus linearis plant for their taste
and use in herbal remedies. What beverage is made
from the leaves?
Q9. What is a honda knot generally used for?
Q10. What is the name of the process that transforms
fabric into char cloth and wood into charcoal?

Q5. What is muktuk?

Answers found on p22

84 | bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE
 Feature

If you plan to celebrate this Christmas, you may want to start thinking about selecting presents for
your loved ones. Although the annual “perfect gift” quest can be good fun, conversely it can also
lead to high anxiety. How do you pitch the appropriate price range for Christmas gifts? Do they
already possess similar kit and where do I start?

In an attempt to ease your burden, the team at Bushcraft & Survival Skills Magazine (with the very
kind assistance from our business partners) have compiled the following inspirational Christmas
gift ideas!
bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE | 85
 Morakniv ‘Rookie’ Up to
Feature

Morakniv®, creator of quality Swedish knives since

1891, is proud to present a new option designed to
£25
safely inspire the next generation of carvers and
crafters. Sweden has a strong culture of encouraging
their children to engage with the outdoors – our
partners at Morakniv are clearly playing their part having
done an excellent job in both the design and the
production of this little beauty!

Rookie is the perfect choice for children learning to use a knife for the first time. With thoughtful features aimed at
safe handling, the Rookie allows young users to gain confidence and learn responsibility while handling a knife.

The Rookie features a 2.8” stainless steel blade with a completely rounded safety tip and a finger guard to prevent
slipping onto the cutting edge. The small, barrel-shaped handle is designed for small hands, while the natural birch
wood provides a nice grip. At 1.8 ounces, the Rookie is light enough for young users to safely handle and manipulate.
The Rookie comes with a polymer sheath to keep both the blade and the user safe when it’s not being used.

“We see a growing trend, all over the world, to ‘get back to roots,’ to do something genuine and physical with your
own hands and simple tools,” says Björn Åkerblom, Morakniv’s global sales and marketing director.
“Woodcarving is a very relaxing and fun activity that can be done almost anywhere without Wi-Fi, computers or even
electricity, while bringing generations together. Since children will most likely be taught by a parent or grandparent,
they will get a good understanding and a healthy relationship with knives, and learn early on to see them as tools
rather than potential weapons.”

SRP £16.00 morakniv.se/en/

Bushcraft & Survival Skills Magazine binder

Now here is an ideal gift in which to store your precious back issues. We have been out
of stock of binders for a little while, but high demand has encouraged us to manufacture
these in time for Christmas. This is a hot-off-the-press full colour litho printed binder
which has been designed to securely hold 12 copies of your magazine. Unlike the former
metal rod system, the new binder employs CORDEX to hold the magazines firmly in their
new home. The cords are made from bonded nylon of great strength and durability and
can be stretched 5 to 6cm from the spine to allow ease of insertion or removal of your
treasured magazines. (Please note binder cover design may vary from the image displayed)

£12.99 each (or two for £20.78 – a saving of 20%!) shop.bushcraftmagazine.com

Opinel Classic No7 VRN Knife

Founded well over 100 years ago, Opinel continues
to thrive and one of their products is purchased every ten seconds. I wouldn’t mind wagering that a considerable
percentage of our thousands of readers own an Opinel knife of some sort. Robust build quality, simplicity of
design coupled with affordability makes this a lovely little gift for someone.

SRP £9.50 whitbyandco.co.uk

Features:
UST Hi-Vis Compass •Fluorescent green base plate enhances
contrast to improve map reading
•Compact, folding design
If, like me, you are unable to ‘navigate naturally’ then this •Precision alignment and liquid compass
delightful stocking filler will surely assist. UST's High Vis allow for the most accurate readings
•Features adjustable lens for dependable
Lensatic Map Compass carries all the modern navigation sighting
features you need, including a liquid interior and precision •Attached breakaway lanyard keeps
compass handy
alignment. •Two Year Limited Warranty

SRP £14.95 whitbyandco.co.uk

86 | bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE
DD Magic Carpet

Feature
For relatively little money, this very compact and
lightweight device provides pocket-sized versatility.
From groundsheet to mini day-shelter to blanket, it is
available in 2 sizes and is an ideal addition to your
‘possibles’, whether it be for a weekend in the woods, a
riverside picnic or, for you music lovers, a trip to Glasto!
Essentially a miniature tarp, the DD Magic Carpet has a
slim attachment point at each corner that allows it to be
pegged to the ground (or tied off to trees/posts),
affording you various options. Its stuff sack, attached
with cord, makes it simple and convenient to pack away.

Regular size: 140x140cm | XL Size: 220x140cm

(large enough for two people to lie on)

“As with all DD tarps, this little cutie is waterproof,

comes with a handy little stuff bag and would make a
sweet little gift.”

SRP £14.00 ddhammocks.com

Klean Kanteen Wide Classic Bottle

Klean Kanteen is a brand that offers a safe, healthy
alternative to plastic drinking bottles. As bushcrafters
and guardians of our environment this is something that Features:
I am sure you will join me in enthusiastically endorsing. •Wide mouth 2.125" (54mm),
easy filling and pouring
Klean Kanteen was introduced onto the market to give •Bushcraft water filter compatible
people, and therefore our planet, a better option than •Easy to clean (rounded corners)
plastic and lined aluminium bottles: a safe, healthy, •Doesn't retain or impact flavours
•Safe, durable, high quality materials
lightweight, reusable bottle, free of Bisphenol A (BPA) •BPA free
and other toxin substances. Here, we suggest the 40oz •Lifetime warranty
•Made with 18/8 Stainless Steel
Wide Classic variant on account of its wide-mouth •100% Stainless interior
opening which is highly compatible with a great number •Dishwasher safe
of bushcraft water filtration/sterilisation devices •1182ml (40oz)
•Stainless loop cap
•Brushed Stainless finish
SRP £24.95 kleankanteen.co.uk

Feuerhand Hurricane Lantern Baby Special 276

This well known, much loved hurricane lantern will need little
introduction to so many of you. You will likely recall that earlier in the
year we featured the Baby Special 276 as a two year subscription
offer to Bushcraft and Survival Skills Magazine. The popularity of
that offer was overwhelming and prompted Feuerhand to suggest this
item in this Bushcraft Christmas Gift Guide.

Proudly displaying the legend “Made in Germany”, this dapper lantern

is, 100 years after it was first produced, still a benchmark for stylish
lantern design coupled with sturdy yet simple technology.

The Feuerhand Baby Special 276 is made of galvanised steel and is thus
particularly resistant to corrosion, whilst the heat-resistant, break-resistant
Schott Suprax glass of the Feuerhand hurricane lantern guards the flame from inclement elements. Baby Special
276 is available in a vast array of colours.

SRP £20.00 approx feuerhand.com/en

bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE | 87

 Frost River Itinerant Backpack Up to
Feature

These beautifully constructed backpacks will be a familiar item to many of our £100
readers.

Built from waxed canvas, premium leather and solid brass…the Itinerant backpack
is made to last.

By definition an itinerant is a traveler, especially one covering a circuit. The Itinerant is

as well suited for wandering from home to school or work with a laptop and/or books
as it is for packing a few items for a walk along the river. The square shape with quick
access zippered closure and divided pockets under the zippered compartment easily
lends itself to scholastic outings. The reliability, both of materials and construction,
encourages wandering off paved circuits. An internal hanging pocket keeps small (electronic) items off the bottom
of the pack. Wide web backstraps and a grab handle make it easy to carry the pack. The Itinerant encourages
daydreaming for the wilds on your daily circuit and will hold up to life’s abrasions better than a cheap nylon bookbag.

SRP £95.00 woodland-ways.co.uk

Foragers Dump Pouch

This is a truly beautiful hand crafted foragers dump pouch, the perfect
companion to carry with you on the move, a minimal carry when on the
belt which opens up into a substantial pouch, allowing you freedom to
forage at will – edible plants, roots, mushrooms, berries or maybe
seaweed and fruits of the seashore.

It is built from premium 1.8mm veg tan leather (with a wide colour range available) sourced from a tannery local to
the Midlands based maker. All hardware is Tandy solid brass rivets and press studs, meaning you won’t see any
wear or discolouring. In order to decrease bulk, canvas is 8oz premium waxed meaning it is strong and durable but
by the same token, not too thick. The standard colour of the wax canvas is a rich olive green but other colours are
available on request.

All of their products are hand-made, in the heart of England, with passion and longevity in mind. At Bushcraft and
Survival Skills magazine we very much admire and endorse provenance. This is a local manufacturer (to us at
least) using where possible, locally sourced materials – delightful! The concept behind all Journeyman Handcraft
products is to produce simple but effective items designed to assist you, whether that be an afternoon in the
woods, simple weekends away or even on one of life’s greater journeys!

Measurements when closed; 16cm x 16cm x 8cm

SRP £40.00 journeymanhandcraft.com

DD Underblanket
All season insulation for your hammock. Seasoned campaigners
amongst you will recognise this as being a relatively simple
solution to a common issue.

Suitable for use in temperatures down to -5C, the DD Underblanket

greatly assists in the prevention of heat loss. In hammock
camping, due to your body weight compressing your clothing or the
filling in your sleeping bag, the majority of heat loss will be from underneath you. The Underblanket combats this by
hanging below your hammock so the loft is not compressed, creating a pocket of air warmed by your body heat. It
should be hung with a little slack to gently 'hug' the hammock when you're inside.

The DD Underblanket is 2.0m long, so will provide near full-length insulation for most people and it is compatible
with all DD hammocks produced since 2012.

SRP £49.00 ddhammocks.com

88 | bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE
Helikon Bushcraft Satchel Olive Green

Feature
Made of durable Nylon Cordura fabric, the Bushcraft
Satchel from Helikon has been designed for active
outdoor users but again is something that would not
look out of place on the bus or Tube. It features two
spacious compartments fitted with genuine garaged
YKK zippers with glove friendly pulls, concealed slots for
attaching tactical gear of your choice and detachable
shoulder strap. With multiple MOLLE panels on the
sides and bottom of the bag the Bushcraft Satchel is a
really useful carry, whether it be on a walk in the woods,
foraging around the seashore or even mooching around
The Bushcraft Show!

•Capacity: 17 litres •2x4 PALS / MOLLE compatible panels on the sides

•Strong and water repellent design •Bottom located one row of MOLLE webbing
•Spacious front zipped compartment •Genuine garaged YKK zipper closures
•Main compartment with zipped mesh pocket and two elasticated nylon slots •Glove friendly paracord zipper pulls
•Fully adjustable, detachable belt strap with clips •External dimensions: 12"x10"x7" (30.5x25.4x17.8cm)
•Concealed sheaths for easy transport of knife, axe or saw •Weight: 430g
•Compression straps on the sides for added support

SRP £50.90 www.military1st.co.uk

Petromax* ‘Perkomax’ Perculalator (PPP for short!)

Our friends at Petromax*, being enthusiastic supporters of the
magazine, showcase what is for them, a relatively new item.
With the stainless steel Perkomax you can always brew your
coffee wherever you need it. You can use the versatile pot with
the sturdy handle both over the campfire as well as on the
domestic stove (electric or gas).

Inside the pot there is a device with a tube and a sieve

container for coffee or tea powder. The boiling water rises into
the tube and flows through the permeable lid into the beverage
powder. It there absorbs aroma and mixes with the remaining
water. Thus, the longer the water circulates in the Percolator, the more intense the taste becomes. This principle
also releases the finest nuances of flavour from tea and coffee. Through the glass knob in the lid you can watch
the entire process. The Stainless Steel Petromax Percolator is available in two sizes. The small version LE14
(feaured here) produces about 2.1 litres.

L x W x H (in cm): 16 x 16 x 19.5 Weight (in g): 900

SRP £59.00 petromax-shop.de/petromax_en/

A 2-year subscription to Bushcraft & Survival Skills Magazine

Subscribe for two years and get a Petromax* Dutch Oven
ft1 worth £30. See p54 for more details FREE
£70.00 (For two years/12 issues)

shop.bushcraftmagazine.com

bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE | 89

 DD - XL - Frontline Hammock - Olive Green
Feature

DD Hammocks, a name now synonymous with outdoor

sleep systems, present this beast of a hammock – a
great number of which featured within the 65 acres of
woodland at The Bushcraft Show 2017!

The massive DD XL Frontline offers the same breathable

base and ultra-fine bug netting as the regular Frontline -
but features full curved spreader poles to create a
tunnel effect and maximise the benefit of the extra floor
width.

Year-round comfort - With its breathable base the XL Frontline Hammock performs well in a variety of climates,
including the jungle - making it an undeniably comfortable sleeping solution! Sleep 100% bug-free with the net fully
deployed, or simply unzip both sides and roll up over the poles to secure out of the way. Alternatively, suspend the
hammock with the net on the bottom to lounge out in the sun!

Used with a ground sheet, this hammock also makes a roomy bivi.

SRP £75.00 ddhammocks.com

First Tactical Specialist Half-Day Backpack OD Green

This is a full-size (25L) half-day tactical pack with a large main compartment, front
admin compartment, numerous smaller individual pockets, and generously padded
back section and shoulder straps for ultimate comfort of use – an ideal carry for
you bushcrafters

This fully MOLLE compatible Specialist Half-Day Backpack comes with Hook and
Hang Thru System for storing oversized gear, repositionable quick release
compression straps for perfect fit and two heavy duty carry handles for added
security.

Ideal for bushcrafters, Law Enforcement, First Responders and Military personnel.
Available in Green, Black or Coyote.

SRP £79.95 military1st.co.uk

Pentagon Reiner 2.0 Softshell Jacket Wolf Grey •Adjustable high collar with chin
guard
•Two-way full front YKK zipper
Comfortable and practical, the Reiner 2.0 Soft Shell •Two zipped handwarmer pockets
•Single left side chest pocket with
Jacket from Pentagon comes with two-way full front wiring eyelet
zipper and high collar with a chin guard made of •Zip pocket with external Hook and
waffle fleece. The jacket also features four functional Loop panel on left bicep
•Armpit ventilation with dual
pockets placed on the chest, lower front and the left direction zippers for increased
sleeve, all lined with breathable mesh. breathability
•Hook and Loop adjustable cuffs
Superfine waffle fleece lining offers both exceptional with rubberized pull tabs
thermal protection and body moisture management •Adjustable bottom hem with elastic
while breathable Storm|Tex membrane provides cords and quick-locks for individual
fit
sufficient level of weather resistance. Additionally, •All pockets with inner mesh lining,
the elastic outer shell provides superb level of zipper garages, and glove-friendly
pull tabs
comfort, freedom of movement and protection. Suitable for mild to cold climates, •Superfine waffle fleece lining
the Pentagon Reiner 2.0 Softshell Jacket is available in Wolf Grey/Black/Green and •Storm|Tex membrane (8000mm
Coyote – sizes S to 3XL. It is an ideal jacket for wearing in the woods but it would water-resistance and 3000mm
breathability)
not look out of place in the High Street either. •Material: 100% Polyester soft-shell
fabric
SRP £77.00 military1st.co.uk

90 | bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE

A Weekend Ticket to The Bushcraft Show 2018

Feature
£105.00 EACH – (Yes, I know that this is in the ‘Up to £100.00’ category
but the boss is in a particularly benevolent mood and has agreed a 5%
discount - pre-Christmas spirit and all that…)

www.thebushcraftshow.co.uk 5% Discount Code: TBS18XMAS5

Tanned Reindeer Fur Hide

Our friends at Woodland Ways appropriately suggested promoting a
Over
reindeer hide in The Christmas Gift Guide! £100
These hides come from Scandinavian reindeer that have grazed freely
in the northern arctic region of Lapland.

Since ancient times, the indigenous Sami people who herd the reindeer have been using
every part of the animal for food, clothing and decoration. These pelts are a by-product of
producing meat thus no part of the animal is wasted. This beautifully soft reindeer hide looks great on the wall or
can be used under your sleeping bag instead of a rollmat. It is one of nature’s great insulators and will provide plenty
of warmth. The colouring can vary from almost white to darkish brown with the unique markings making each hide
individual.

SRP £139.00 woodland-ways.co.uk

Craghoppers Anders Jacket Features:

•Thermo Air +
•RFID Shield
If you spend as much time pounding the city streets as you do •AquaDry Membrane
•Insulating
exploring the rural lanes and trails, then Anders makes a smart •Waterproof
choice. This urban performer has star quality, delivering rugged •Breathable
•11 pockets
reliability in the worst weather conditions, while sporting a •Upper outer: 55% wool, 28%
designer finish that would usually grace the pages of a glossy polyester, 17% acrylic / Lower
mag. outer: 100% cotton / Upper
lining: 100% cotton / Lower
lining & wadding: 100%
”This jacket has been road and trail tested by the team at polyester
•1895g
Bushcraft & Survival Skills Magazine and we are impressed with
the results. It is indeed a significantly stylish product but is also,
no question, very technically proficient. It is warm, repelled rain
and probing winds with ease and sports an abundance of pockets for carrying vast quantities of ‘possibles’! Anders
is available in a very bushcraft appropriate Dark Moss colour; sizes Small through XXL.”

SRP £250.00 www.craghoppers.com

Woodland Ways Bushcraft Weekend Course

This is by far Woodland Ways’ most popular Bushcraft Course. This multi award
winning course is an ideal starting course for the beginner and for those who wish to
try their hand at something different. It is also relevant for those who have an outline
understanding of the concepts and techniques of Bushcraft and Survival but wish to
practice their techniques. By no means is this a basic introductory course, you will be
amazed at the level of detail the instructors will go into given the relatively short time
available.

This course is not an endurance test but is designed for you to get the practical
hands-on experience of the basics of Bushcraft and Survival, in a fun and safe
weekend. No prior experience is required for you to attend this course.

SRP £249.00 woodland-ways.co.uk

bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE | 91

 BOOK REVIEW
review

Spon: A Guide to Spoon Carving

and the New Wood Culture
by Barn the Spoon
Starting with something of his personal story as a
wandering spoon carver and peddler, it then moves into
the subject of trees and the wood that comes from
them, before looking at tools and various cutting
techniques. There is a famous quote attributed to US
president Abraham Lincoln which says, “Give me four
hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first two
sharpening the axe.” Barn would, I suspect, feel the
same, because it is only when materials, tools, grips,
etc. have been covered that he moves on to how to
carve a simple spoon – and this is halfway through the
book.

Following that, the final third of the book showcases

sixteen spoon types in four categories: measuring,
cooking, serving and eating. The photos are
exceptionally good and convey the beauty of the
spoons, as well as providing illustrations to the written
guidance. Of course, a picture paints a thousand words
and a film can paint even more. So, where the
techniques are particularly tricky, Barn quite sensibly
directs readers to his online videos.

This is a book that very much reflects the philosophy of

the author, as well as his skill and artistry. As such, I’m
sure novices and spoon carvers of every level will find
something within its pages to inspire them.

If you went along to this year's Bushcraft Show you will
have seen Barn the Spoon hosting carving classes on
the Morakniv stand and also giving a talk on the main
stage. You might otherwise be familiar with Barn from
articles on the BBC website and broadsheet newspapers
such as The Telegraph and The Guardian; he even has a
Facebook fan club.
Author Profile
Walking, camping, fishing, geocaching,
investigating plants and animals and just
wombling in the woods are all things you will
find Chris Eyles doing whilst trying to pass his
love of the outdoors on to his young son, who
often proves better at them than his dad. CHRIS EYLES
Chris also aspires to write a book for children
about the folklore of trees.

Barn is certainly a remarkable person and he has spent

the last three years earning his living as a travelling
spoon carver. Consequently, there’s a lot of his personal
philosophy within this book in terms of his approach to
working with wood and his appreciation of trees.
Whilst he might state that this is not a text book, it does,
as he says, give a good grounding in spoon making and
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there is plenty of guidance here. What I think Barn is
getting at is that this is not a simple manual on how to
make spoons and he's right; it's much more of an
inspirational piece.

92 | bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE

www.petromax.de fb.com/petromaxgermany @petromax.germany
Feature
Author Profile
Ben Abbott is a 14-year-old boy who lives in
Cambridge and is passionate about bushcraft
and the outdoors. He can typically be found at
the bottom of the garden, or in the woods close
by practising his skills. He has very tolerant
parents who put up with the resultant wood
shavings, mud and smell of smoke. Ben’s
BEN ABBOTT
passion for bushcraft was sparked age 4, when
he received his first pen knife and his Mum enrolled the family onto a Ray
Mears course, concerned to ensure Ben retained all his fingers. Thereafter,
Ben discovered the Bushcraft Show, which he has attended as an annual
pilgrimage. Ben is a prodigious reader of a wide range of books and blogs
on bushcraft and adventuring, and as a member of his school’s outdoor
exploration society, he gets to share this interest with his peers.
94 | bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE
Every summer my family and I are fortunate to
make an annual trek to France, to camp and
canoe. This summer, we decided to stop off for a
night at a Yurt campsite called Auvergne
Naturelle, which is located in Laval sur Doulon,
a small village in the heart of the Livradois
National Park, in the Auvergne region of
France. Auvergne Naturelle is run by a British
couple; Robert and Kathryn Harrison. Not only
is it a beautiful place to stay, Rob also offers
bushcraft courses. While we were sitting
talking around the campfire, I discovered how
Rob and Kathryn had turned their dream of
having an ‘outdoor and bushcraft-oriented
business’ into reality and this got me thinking. I
reflected on the times I have heard people say
 Feature
that they wish they could turn their love of
bushcraft into a sustainable way of life.

What I found really interesting was how Rob

and Kathryn used bushcraft and business skills
to form the basis of their venture and how Rob,
in particular, uses bushcraft skills in his
everyday life. The thing that struck me was
how this couple started with an idea, which
evolved into reality: living in a National Park,
raising a family, growing and rearing their own
food and building a business, which includes and I decided to interview Rob about his
teaching bushcraft skills. This shows that a motivation to start this business. I would like to
‘dream’ might seem out of reach, but with the stress that I have not overlooked Kathryn’s role
right amount of commitment and effort, it can in the business – my focus is on Rob as he is
materialise. This is what I found so inspiring responsible for the bushcraft side of things.
bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE | 95
 Questions
Feature

1. How did you first get involved in bushcraft?

I have always liked being in the outdoors and
went camping a lot as a kid. I was in the Scouts
until I was 18 years old and was nicknamed
“the moth” because I loved fire making! When I
was 35, Kathryn bought me a two- day bush-
craft course at the Woodcraft school in West
Sussex and I felt as though I had found my
passion in life! I was then introduced to the
Instructor's Course….
who were also attending the course. We had
2. Where did you train and with whom? always wanted to live somewhere where we
At Woodcraft school in Midhurst, West Sussex, would be more self-sufficient, away from the
with John Ryder, which also involved time at city and also run our own business. We
Plumpton College in East Sussex. I did the one thought that combining a yurt campsite and
year Instructor’s Course in 2008. running bushcraft courses would be perfect.
We just had to find a place with enough land
3. How did your move to France evolve from and woodland... We looked in the UK but there
an idea to reality? was little available within our budget and then
Kathryn and I were both self-employed we came across our house on the internet in
renovating houses in the UK and I was France, a house with 20 acres of land including
finishing my Instructor's course, when we mixed woodland in the middle of the Livradois
were introduced to yurts through some people National Park. It was perfect!

96 | bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE

4. What types of courses do you offer?

Feature
We primarily offer courses for guests staying in
the yurts during the summer. We run courses
four times per week, which include woodcraft,
making bows and arrows for the children,
followed by target practice and a walk through
the woods, hunting for wild boar. For adults,
we run a course where you can whittle a spoon
or walking stick. The fire-making course
includes all the techniques of making a fire and
then cooking a cake or sausages on it. The
tracking and trapping course is a discovery
course which involves setting traps over the
site to catch small mammals, insects and
anything that may be swimming in the river.
A wildlife camera is also used which can often
capture wild boar images. We also have a
paracord survival bracelet course which is
great for kids.

We do weekend courses for adult beginners

which includes camping out overnight and
includes the following:

Woodland Crafts including spoon making and

bows and arrows; firemaking, campfire
cooking, fire by friction, tree and plant
identification, natural cordage, water filtration,
basket making demonstration, fungi foraging
and game preparation.

5. Could you have done what you do in the

UK?
I think we could have done the same but we
wanted something a bit more remote and also
the UK is very busy and more expensive.

6. How do you use bushcraft skills in your

everyday life?
We grow our own vegetables and have reared
and killed our own animals. During the
summer I teach bushcraft to the guests and
make the campfire each night for the guests to
sit around. We collect mushrooms and gather
and process wood for our log burner which
fuels our heating in the winter.

bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE | 97

Feature
7. How do you involve your children in a
bushcraft life and how has it impacted them?
They love the summer when they meet the
guests; we are constantly outdoors teaching
them about what plants they can and cannot
eat.
8. How do you think more people could
benefit from bushcraft?
Just slowing down and being more in tune
with nature is something that would benefit
everyone.
98 | bushcraft & SURVIVAL SKILLS MAGAZINE
9. What advice would you offer to someone
who would like to do something similar?
Just do it! We really enjoy our life and our
work in the summer meeting people from
everywhere and sharing our experiences with
them. It has been hard work setting
everything up but we think we have a good life
here now and our girls, Daisy and Olive are
bilingual, love school and being in an
environment where they can just run around,
make dens and be kids!
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