Scuba Diving 2016-01-02

GEAR GUIDE: 15 MASKS TESTED P 25
SCUBA+ D I V I N G
MEXICO’S
ENCHANTED
SEA OF
CORTEZ
P 60
AND THE
SEA HERO
OF THE
YEAR IS...
P 16
C R E T SY
S E NAV
O F AE A L D
S
V E ALE
R E P 13
2016 READERS CHOICE AWARDS
TOP 100
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016
THE BEST OVERALL DIVING

SCUBADIVING.COM
WRECKS » BIG ANIMALS » MACRO

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ON THE COVER
This gray reef
shark was spotted
on the hunt during
CONTENTS
a night dive in J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 1 6 // V O L . 2 5 I S S U E 0 1 // S C U B A D I V I N G . C O M
Papua New Guinea.
PHOTOGRAPH BY
TOBIAS FRIEDRICH
8
TA L K
A look at how Top

100 has grown
through the years,
and a thank you to
everyone who makes
it a success. 52
TRAINING
11
CURRENTS Learn to pack like a
pro; avoid the mis-
takes in Lessons for
Life; achieve the per-
fect white balance in
Lightroom post; and
train your eye to spot
camouflaged critters.
Channel your inner

Navy SEAL with
these deadly skills;
discover the prehis-
toric predator that’s
been hiding in a
swamp; and congrat-
ulate the 2015 Sea 60
Hero of the Year. G E TAWAYS
19 Prepare yourself for

ENCOUNTERS sensory overload
diving the aquarium
High-voltage of the world, then
thrills with elec- amplify your adren-
tric rays. What it's aline with ripping
like to take an unex- currents and big-
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: MICHAEL GERKEN; MIKO MACIASZEK; CHRISTIAN VIZL; JON WHITTLE (2)
plained hit. And that’s animal encounters in
not even the tip of the Sunshine State.
the iceberg.
74
LOOK
The line between

land and sea is
blurred for divers
who enter this
ethereal Italian lake.
25
SCUBALAB
Does mask shopping TOP 100 READERS CHOICE AWARDS

have you feeling like Here at Scuba Diving magazine, we strive each issue to deliver the
Goldilocks? We test best of the best in the world of dive — but sometimes we have to
the latest models relinquish control. So we rely on you, our readers, to take charge of
to help you find one the annual Top 100 issue and tell us where to find the world's best
that’s just right. diving. And for 23 years and counting, you have yet to disappoint.
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SCUBADIVING.COM JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016 / 4

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SMART
CENTER OF INTELLIGENCE.
EDGE OF PERFORMANCE.
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Be intelligent. Take the edge of performance.
mares.com
TA L K
S C U B A D I V I N G . C O M // E D I T @ S C U B A D I V I N G . C O M // @ S C U B A D I V I N G M A G
TOP 100, BY THE NUMBERS edit@scubadiving.com).

What has not changed is the
Though I’ve been with Scuba Diving since it launched in 1992, contribution our readers have made
I can’t remember who came up with the name Top 100 for over the years. Thousands of you vote
each year, and 2015 was no exception
our annual Readers Choice survey. At the time — we first — we received 8,741 completed and
published this feature in January 1994 — we didn’t have 100 qualified surveys, with the results tab-
of anything. A few years into the program, after a number of ulated by our independent research
queries from readers, we added the Gold List (see scuba arm, Bonnier Corporate Insights.
We know that much of the success of
diving.com/goldlist2016), which names a total of 100 winners the program is thanks to the generos-
in various categories, including best dive resort, operation ity of our Top 100 prize donors
and liveaboard. (see the opposite page). Con-
gratulations to our winners,
At the heart of Top 100 are the dive I am proud of Top 100’s heritage, chosen at random from sur-
locations themselves. Each year, we but of course there have been changes vey voters: Carrie Sorensen,
present the world’s top spots for wreck over the years — major design over- of Traverse City, Michigan,
diving, big animals, underwater pho- hauls as well as minor tweaks to the who will enjoy seven days
tography, macro critters and more. You content itself. Last year we added the of diving aboard the beau-
can find the cream of this year’s crop — category Best Cave/Cavern/Grotto tiful Maldives Aggressor;
including overall best dive destinations Diving. For our 2017 Top 100, we’re Reno Rossi, of Novato,
— starting on page 34. (Find the rest at thinking about adding Best Places for California, who will soon
scubadiving.com/top-100-2016.) Freediving (email us your thoughts at be diving with a new
Scubapro MK25 EVO/A700 regulator;
and Gary Gardner, of Lake Balboa,
California, who will get a chance to
capture undersea wonders with a new
SeaLife DC1400 camera.
We’ll be emailing the 2017 survey to
our e-newsletter subscribers in two
parts in 2016. The first — the desti-
nation survey — will be in your email
inbox in February, and the second —
the Gold List survey — in July. Not a
Scuba Diving e-news subscriber? Sign
up now on our website. — PAT RICIA
W U E S T, E D ITO R-IN - CHIEF
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COURTESY IMAGES, FROM TOP: AGGRESSOR; SCUBAPRO; SEALIFE. OPPOSITE: JON WHITTLE
Contact: scubapro.com
SEALIFE DC1400
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Contact: sealife-cameras.com
CORRECTION
In our August ScubaLab report we
misstated the regs that are currently
approved for U.S. military use in cold
water. They are the Mares Abyss Navy II
and the Poseidon XStream.
based on availability and season

NOTES, NEWS AND STUFF YOU CAN USE
SIPHOSOME NEW AND

This string contains
colony members NOTEWORTHY
responsible for feeding, One hundred tips to
reproduction and defense. get your inner ninja on;
plus, what lurks in the
Dismal Swamp? P 13
DIVING DOCTOR Are
nosebleeds after div-
ing anything to worry
about? P 14 SEA HERO
NECTOPHORES And Scuba Diving’s Sea
The jet-propulsion
members of a Hero of the Year is ... P 16
siphonophore
colony, nectophores
are genetically
identical clones
arranged in
what’s known as a
nectosome.
NECTOSOME
The nectosome is only a few
inches long, but it tows much
longer groups of reproduc-
tive and feeding units across
distances that can reach 650
feet or more per day — the
human equivalent of running
a marathon every day.
JET-PROPULSION LABORATORY
Nanomia bijuga belongs to a group of colonial animals
called physonect siphonophores that are related to jelly-
fish, anemones and corals. These plankton-feeders rise
to the surface of the world’s oceans at night to hunt, then
return to the depths by day to avoid being hunted them-
selves. Study of N. bijuga could influence the future of
underwater-propulsion-vehicle design.
SOURCE: NATIONAL SCIENCE FOUNDATION
f you’ve dived the open ocean of Hawaii or Tahiti at night, you’ve probably seen it: a glow-
SPACE
I
KEVIN RASKOFF
ing, segmented line that appears to be a single animal but really is many animals working
INVADERS together, collectively known as siphonophores. Now scientists are going beyond the star-
BY MARY FRANCES EMMONS tling beauty of these “multi-engine organizations” and investigating whether their unique >>

method of propulsion could A nectophore budding zone
change how we design is where a siphonophore’s
undersea craft for future swimming areas are made.
generations.
“We can perhaps peer diferent functions.
into our own future in the Costello explains that
sea,” says marine biologist younger, weaker mem-
Jack Costello of Providence bers, located at the front
College, one of the re- of the organism, are re-
searchers, “by studying sponsible for turning and
how this seemingly simple steering. Older — and larg-
animal jets from one part er — members at the rear
of the ocean to another, re- provide more thrust. “It’s
lying on its youngest crew a sophisticated design in
members.” (Star Trek fans, what would initially seem
score one for Mr. Chekov.) like a simple organism,”
Lots of marine animals In a study published Costello says.
move by jet propulsion — THE FINDINGS in the journal Nature The findings suggest it
squid and jellyfish spring to Communications, Costello might be possible to de-
mind — but siphonophores
SUGGEST IT MIGHT and colleagues from Roger sign an undersea vehicle
are uncommon in that BE POSSIBLE TO Williams University in that, like N. bijuga, twirls
they represent an entire DESIGN AN UN- Rhode Island, the Uni- as it moves, propelled
colony that is coordinat- DERSEA VEHICLE versity of South Florida, by front-to-back thrust-
ing individual jets to move THAT TWIRLS Stanford University and the ers, “a natural solution to
the collective as a whole, AS IT MOVES, University of Oregon exam- multi-engine organization
something like the way ined a siphonophore known that might contribute
each crew member aboard PROPELLED BY as Nanomia bijuga. The to the expanding field of
the Starship Enterprise has FRONT-TO-BACK group of researchers found underwater-distributed
a specific role in guiding THRUSTERS. that younger and older colo- propulsion-vehicle design,”
the ship. ny members fulfill distinctly the study concludes.
SWAMP THING
THE PREHISTORIC
100 CREATURE THAT

WAS HIDING BELOW
DEADLY THE SURFACE

BY GINA AVILE
SKILLS
WANT TO LEARN TO I n the murky waters
of Virginia’s Great
THINK LIKE A NAVY Dismal Swamp, a
SEAL? THIS ILLUS- monstrous prehistor-
TRATED MANUAL WILL ic creature rested, just
HELP YOU GET YOUR waiting to be discovered.
NINJA ON OK, so it isn’t Swamp
BY MARY FRANCES EMMONS Thing. But an ancient
whale skull is almost as
cool. The 5-million-year-
old skull is riddled with
massive teeth marks
thought to be from the
megalodon shark. The
best part: It could be a
THE SKULL
IS RIDDLED
lint Emerson spent 20 risks will certainly enjoy
WITH MASSIVE
C years navigating deadly
situations with the National
the book. TEETH MARKS
THOUGHT TO BE
Security Agency and the elite Q: HAVE YOU EVER HAD FROM THE MEG-
SEAL Team Six. Now retired, TO RELY ON YOUR SCUBA ALODON SHARK.
he’s just released the illus- SKILLS IN A LIFE-OR-
trated 100 Deadly Skills: The DEATH SITUATION?
SEAL Operative’s Guide to A: Fortunately, I have never new whale species.
Eluding Pursuers, Evading had to jump from an enemy Diver and paleon-
Capture and Surviving Any ship to my dive rig staged tologist Jason Osborne
Dangerous Situation, which 20 feet below the pier — or found the skull in
includes scuba-friendly skills maybe I did, hmm, I can’t June 2013, despite the
such as clearing a flood- remember. [Laughs.] As a swamp’s zero-visibility
ed mask without a bubble kid, an adult dive partner conditions, but it took
trail (No. 84), crossing en- left me behind at a tire reef two more years of plan-
emy borders by sea (No. 11) in the Persian Gulf — a not- ning before the fossil
and surviving a drowning so-good dive partner, to say came to the surface. “I
FROM TOP: COURTESY CLINT EMERSON; JON WHITTLE (2). OPPOSITE: KEVIN RASKOFF
while restrained (No. 88). We the least. In times of crisis, was nervous I wouldn’t
spoke with him about the se- remaining calm, cool and find the skull again and
crets of his life and work (and collected becomes the most that flooding might
he never even ofered to kill valuable tool, not having have destroyed it,” says
us afterward). the latest, greatest gear on Osborne. “Luckily, I
your back. Most of the time, did find it, and it was in
Q: WERE YOU A DIVER BE- Q: WHAT’S THE MOST the diference between life great condition.”
FORE YOUR SEAL SERVICE? VALUABLE THING ABOUT and death is how you react. To retrieve the skull,
A: Growing up in Saudi 100 DEADLY SKILLS? Osborne used a body
Arabia, boredom was abun- A: It’s not about becoming Q: WHAT ARE THE bag. “It took our team of
dant, so diving and Boy more deadly — it’s about CRUCIAL “DEADLY SKILLS” four people two days to
Scouts became my pastimes. becoming more safe and FOR DIVERS? get it out,” he says.
I got certified as soon as I secure by leveraging the A: As a SEAL we have The fossil was then
turned 12 and have never 100 skills. Divers travel the several diving mantras: donated to the Calvert
stopped diving. Learn- globe; these skills are useful Never dive alone. Plan your Marine Museum, where
ing to dive in the Persian for anyone traveling abroad dive, dive your plan. Don’t it will be tested for signs
Gulf was actually childhood or domestically. And people be scared of the dark. And of a new species.
“training,” prepping for an who enjoy new adventures dive with a full bladder,
unknown future. and taking calculated because urine is warm.

NOSE-
BLEEDS
We’re taking your dive experience AFTER
to a whole new level. DIVING
IS IT NORMAL THAT I GET
NOSEBLEEDS AFTER A DIVE,
OR IS MY HEALTH AT RISK?
JAMES L. CARUSO, M.D.
Q: AFTER MY LAST DIVE, I GOT

A NOSEBLEED. WHAT COULD
HAVE CAUSED THIS?
A: When I was a junior Navy officer

my recreational dive buddy was the
unit’s supply officer. He warned me
that nearly every time he came up
from a dive, there would be blood in
his mask and advised me not to be
concerned. He was right, but despite
making dozens of dives with him,
watching my dive buddy clear blood
out of his mask as soon as we reached
the surface was always a bit unnerving.
The source of my dive buddy’s blood
was likely his sinuses. Polyps and
inflammation are common in the si-
nuses. In fact, mucous plugs within
the sinuses can cause sinus squeezes,
resulting in very painful headaches
during and after a dive. Many peo-
ple sufer from chronic sinusitis,
which leaves the lining of the sinus-
es inflamed and friable. The pressure
Discover three ways to experience the world’s changes from diving can injure this
best diving locations; the incomparable cell lining, and the result is bleeding
Cayman Islands. This scuba diver’s paradise from the sinuses. The other possible
features three breathtaking islands, each with cause of a bloody nose can be the lin-
one spectacular resort that offers an oasis
ing of the nose itself. Drying out the
tissue lining the nasal passages can
above the sea as outstanding as the diving
make it susceptible to bleeding from
beneath it. Immerse yourself in an undersea the slightest trauma. Something as
adventure or a tropical escape at Cobalt Coast subtle as pinching the nose during ear
Grand Cayman, Cayman Brac Beach Resort, equalization can result in a nosebleed.
or Little Cayman Beach Resort. Each offers a If the nosebleed is a one-time event,
I would not be too concerned. If it be-
beautiful beachfront setting and the warmest
comes frequent, I would recommend
in hospitality, all complemented by Reef Divers’ having an ear, nose and throat surgeon
valet diving for the ultimate diving experience. look into your nose and sinuses with a
For a true one-of-a-kind diving adventure, special instrument in order to identify
the choice is Clearly Cayman. the source of the bleeding.
727.310.3056 » James L. Caruso is a 30-year veteran of the

U.S. Navy, serving as ship’s doctor, undersea
ClearlyCayman.com medical officer and flight surgeon. His experience
includes a fellowship in Diving and Hyperbaric
Medicine at Duke University Medical Center; today
he is Denver's chief medical examiner.

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Three Sri Lanka Aggressor Itineraries:

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Courtesy of Howard Martenstyn Courtesy of Dharshana Jayawardena
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+1-800-348-2628 r 1-706-993-2531 r srilanka@aggressor.com

CURRENTS
SEA HEROES
/
2015 SEA HERO OF THE YEAR

KURT
LIEBER
OCCUPATION
FOUNDER/EXECUTIVE
DIRECTOR, OCEAN
DEFENDERS ALLIANCE
DIVER SINCE
MID-1970S
HELPED ESTABLISH
CALIFORNIA’S MPA
NETWORK, WHICH
PROTECTS 16 PERCENT
OF STATE WATERS,
NEARLY 10 PERCENT IN
NO-TAKE ZONES
FROM TOP, COURTESY IMAGES: OCEAN DEFENDERS/JIM LIEBER; OCEAN DEFENDERS. OPPOSITE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: COURTESY ORIS; JOHN KEATLEY;
BY MARY FRANCES EMMONS work is never done.”
Never done, perhaps, but now
hen Kurt Lieber started maybe just a little bit easier. As Sea
W California’s Ocean Defenders Hero of the Year, Lieber will receive a
PATRICK STRATTNER; LARRY COHEN; COURTESY NED AND ANNA DELOACH; SHAWN JACKSON
Alliance in 2000, he could barely find $5,000 cash award on behalf of ODA
anyone who knew about “ghost gear” — from Oris, which also awards each of
equipment lost or abandoned by com- Scuba Diving’s Sea Heroes an Aquis
mercial fishermen — and its hazardous Date watch.
efects on marine life and divers. “This is very exciting for me because
“The Internet still wasn’t a tool I’ve read Scuba Diving for years,” Li-
widely used to gather or share in- eber says. “It has always inspired me
formation,” says Lieber, recipient of not only to get into diving but also
Scuba Diving’s November/December turn that energy into a positive force
Sea Hero award, sponsored by Oris for change. I’m in awe of each of this
Watches USA. “Marine debris is a dis- year’s Sea Heroes — it humbles me to
maying example of the old saying, ‘Out think that I was selected out of such a
of sight, out of mind,’ as far as public dedicated group of individuals.”
consciousness goes.” ODA (oceandefenders.org)
“Fast forward 15 years, and the tide Sea Hero of the Year Kurt Lieber pulls combines the eforts of hundreds of
is changing,” Lieber says. “There is now abandoned lobster traps from wa- dedicated volunteers — more than
a great deal of scientific information ters off Palos Verdes, California (top). 200 divers working underwater along
available. The problem is that every Ocean Defenders Alliance divers and with hundreds of topside deckhands —
year the commercial fishing industry deckhands celebrate after removing to pull 21,000 pounds of nets from the
loses a staggering amount of gear — 2,200 pounds of debris from Channel seas around California to date, along
lines, nets and traps. Consequently, our Islands Harbor in Oxnard, California. with 290 traps, 28,000 feet of trap

lines, and 10,000 pounds of debris. heart of the Sea Hero awards.
“Computers, batteries, boat masts, “We are excited to present this
rudders, space heaters, metal stairs, award to Ocean Defenders Alliance
refrigerators, the list goes on and on,” and its founder, Kurt Lieber,” says V.J.
Lieber says. Geronimo, CEO, North America, at
Last year, ODA purchased a used Oris Watches USA. “Each year, it’s dif-
boat and has been working on up- ficult to single out just one Sea Hero
grades and repairs to that vessel, of the Year, when all are doing such
berthed in San Pedro. “As anyone who important work, from educators who
has ever owned or been around a boat have led the way for decades in as-
knows: Things are always needing sessing worldwide fish populations to
maintenance, repair or replacement,” videographers shining a spotlight on
says Lieber. “We have the manpower
and know-how, but we are constant-
ly working to keep our boats running
well and fueled up.”
Lieber intends to put the Oris
cash award directly into the recently
acquired boat in order to launch ad-
ditional debris-removal expeditions.
“This award allows us to travel farther
from our home port and get to sites
we haven’t been able to reach because
of the high costs of fuel, oil and boat
maintenance,” he says.
Why does the work of ODA matter
so much? “Scientists have estimat-
ed that nylon nets can last 650 years
in the ocean,” Lieber explains. “A net
“WE ARE EXCITED TO
that is in the water for that long does PRESENT THIS AWARD
no one any good. Animals are dying TO OCEAN DEFEND-
continuously — needlessly — and div- ERS ALLIANCE
ers are losing what we all want to AND ITS FOUNDER,
see: live fish! The fishing communi- KURT LIEBER.”
ty loses as well because of decreased
— V. J . G E R O N I M O , C E O , N O R T H
populations. I’ve been diving since the
A M E R I C A , O R I S WAT C H E S U S A
mid-’70s, and have seen a drastic de-
cline in biodiversity, water quality and
wildlife sightings and interactions. the work of scientists and volunteers
Having witnessed this loss firsthand alike to rangers defending the integ-
is what drives me to do what I can, rity of marine-protected areas and
in my lifetime, to defend ocean life shark habitats. These heroes are real
and habitats.” people who inspire everyday divers to
Celebrating and encouraging get involved in protecting the marine
engaged, committed communities like environment, and for that we salute
Ocean Defenders Alliance is at the them all.”
MEET THIS YEAR’S SEA HEROES

People of action, devoted to
Ned and Giacomo Laura protecting the planet’s oceans
Anna Palavicini James
DeLoach JULY AUGUST and marine life through conser-
JUNE Persuaded Focused
Spearheaded Honduras to attention on vation, technology or by simply
creation of ban shark Puget Sound helping others. If you spot a Sea
REEF.org fishing water issues
Hero, join Scuba Diving, Oris and
Rick Kurt
the 201+ Sea Heroes program
Morris Lieber by nominating him or her at
SEPT/OCT NOV/DEC
Documented Founded Ocean scubadiving.com/seaheroes
2,000 new Defenders
species for Alliance to
Census of combat “ghost
Marine Life gear”

The Reef Explorer Challenge.
Sound the trumpets.
Dive at least one designated reef in each of the five regions in

The Florida Keys, and you’ll receive a poster certifying that you’re
O
RG
an official Florida Keys Reef Explorer. Whether you’re a novice
LA
Y
KE
or experienced diver, it never hurts to toot your own horn.
fla-keys.com/diving DA A
OR
AM
ISL
N
THO
KEY W
EST MARA
BIG PINE KEY & THE LOWER KEYS
Dive Key West, Inc. Amy Slate’s Amoray Dive Resort,

Keys’ Premiere Dive Center. Key Largo
Our 45th year. Dive “The Vandenberg”! Waterfront rooms, pool, beach,
Custom dive and lodging packages. scuba/snorkel instr. & boat charters.
800-426-0707 or 305-296-3823 3nts/2dive pkg from $345 ppdo.
divekeywest.com 305-451-3595 or 800-426-6729
amoray.com
Key Largo Cottages @ Key Lime Sailing Club
FREE kayaks, bicycles, sailing, fishing, Cocoplum Beach & Tennis Club & Marina,
snorkel, sunset sail w/cottage $175 NT. Marathon
305-451-3438 2/2 vacation villa on beach, kitchen, W&D,
keylimesailingclub.com heated pool, boat dock & 4/5 pool home.
800-228-1587 or 305-743-0240
Holiday Inn Key Largo cocoplum.com
Located next to deep-water marina.
Spacious guest rooms. Restaurant on-site.
866-733-8554 or 305-451-2121
holidayinn.com/keylargofl
D I V E S T H AT P U M P Y O U R A D R E N A L I N E A N D L E AV E Y O U B E G G I N G F O R M O R E
ENCOUNTERS
SEA WATCH
ELECTRIC RAYS
THESE BOTTOM-DWELLING CRITTERS PACK A SHOCKING
PUNCH — UP TO 220 VOLTS B Y T R A V I S M A R S H A L L
The electric ray is one of those creatures that might have simultaneously fascinated and
frightened you as a child. Lurking unseen on the seafloor, it has the power to send a jolt of
painful electricity rippling through your body. The mechanism that provides this power is
NOAM KORTLER
unique, emanating from kidney-shaped organs made of striated muscle located on either »

FA S T FAC T S
side of the ray’s head. These
modified muscles contain
columns of electrocytes —
jelly-filled electric plates,
kind of like rows of batteries
— that electric rays use to
generate their charge.
There are many varieties
of the electric ray. In the
United States, one common
type is the Pacific electric MAX LENGTH
2 TO 6 FEET, DEPENDING
ray, found of the California ON SPECIES
coast. These rays are part MAX WEIGHT
90 TO 200 POUNDS
of the Torpedinidae family, L I F E S PA N
commonly called torpedoes 16 TO 24 YEARS
— which is where we got the S TAT U S
NOT THREATENED
name for the weapon — that F U N FAC T
includes 22 species around THE ANCIENT GREEKS AND
the world. The Pacific elec- ROMANS USED THE ELECTRIC
CURRENT OF THIS RAY TO
tric ray can grow fairly large, TREAT AILMENTS SUCH AS
about 4 feet long, and gener- GOUT AND HEADACHES.
ates about 45 volts of elec-
tricity, which it uses for self- how they give birth, not how
defense and to stun its prey. they deliver their electrical
The Pacific electric ray’s payload. The name Nar-
cousin on the East Coast is cinidae — and its common
called the Atlantic torpedo, name, numbfish — comes
and it’s even larger, grow- from the ancient Greeks,
ing up to 6 feet long and who used the rays as a form
SEA WATCH
of anesthesia because of the

localized numbing sensation
that their shock left behind.
Numbfish are found all
over the world; they are not
only smaller than the torpe-
does — only about 2 feet at
the largest — but they also
deliver a lesser jolt, ranging
from 10 to 35 volts.
The habitat of one type
of numbfish — the bulls-
The Atlantic’s beautiful eye electric ray — overlaps
common torpedo ray belies with the Pacific electric ray,
its pedestrian name. but you’re more likely to
spot the bullseye in the Sea
nearly 200 pounds. These of Cortez than Southern
behemoth blasters pack the California. It's easy to spot
largest punch of any elec- if you do come across one,
tric ray, producing up to thanks to the noticeable
220 volts of electricity. eyespot marking it has at
The Atlantic torpedoes the center of its body.
can be found in coastal wa-
ters on both sides of the DANGER INDEX
Atlantic, though they prefer
cooler water so are more
NHPA/PHOTOSHOT/SUPERSTOCK
often seen in locations such

as New England and the
Mediterranean Sea. CAUTION:
SOME SPE-
There’s a second family CIES PRO-
of electric rays called DUCE 220
VOLTS OF
Narcinidae; the main dif- ELECTRICITY
ference between the two is
SECRET SPOT
ON THE ROCKS
Only in springtime, when
the hard winter slowly
subsides, are the ice-
cold waters of Greenland
suitable for divers. Here,
icebergs float in crystal-
clear water at depths of
more than 150 feet. These
arctic giants broke away
from the glaciers in north
Greenland — the biggest
island on Earth — and
drifted for weeks down to
the south, where divers
can immerse themselves
in the frozen majesty.
However, not all icebergs
are suitable for diving;
huge overhangs of ice
can collapse suddenly.
But with the right glacial
mass, this experience is a
real adventure.
TEXT AND PHOTO
BY TOBIAS FRIEDRICH

For more info 305-461-0611
photo by: Wally Diehl/Blue Ocean Ink
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The paramedics insisted I go to the
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H E A D -T O -H E A D T E ST I N G
EYE OPENER WE TEST-DIVE 15 NEW MASKS

BY ROG E R ROY PHOTOG RAPHY BY JON WH ITTLE
the skirt and the strap are very comfortable. The skirt, strap and
ATOMIC AQUATICS buckle helped the Frameless 2 take the highest scores in our test
for adjustment and comfort, earning excellent ratings for both. The
FRAMELESS 2 mask is available in three sizes for optimal fit (we tested the stan-
PRICE $139 CONTACT atomicaquatics.com dard size, which fit most of our divers well). The Frameless 2 was
The frameless design and soft silicone skirt bring the broad single our Testers Choice for single-lens masks.
lens of the Frameless 2 in close for a comfortable, panoramic view
with no frame to rub the face or block the view. The lens is of a COMFORT
low-iron glass that reduces distortion, and despite its size, the vol- POOR EXCELLENT
ume of the mask is noticeably small, making it easy to clear and ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ]
equalize. The buckles are just right, with a mechanism that adjusts FIELD OF VIEW
easily and stays put. They swivel only side to side, but are mounted POOR EXCELLENT
on silicone tabs that allow some up-and-down movement. Both ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ]
SINGLE LENS
waterproof test sheets, divers ERGO TEST CATEGORIES: » Mask volume and ease of
HOW scored each mask in five
performance categories.
» Ease and security of
adjustments, including buck-
clearing and equalizing
WE TEST Our team of divers also

les, swivels and quick releases
» Comfort of the strap, skirt,
Because of the importance
of proper fit, individual test
MASK TEST PROTOCOL recorded comments about frame, nose pocket and all divers did not proceed with in-
To evaluate the in-water their experience with each contact points water testing if a mask failed
performance of each mask, a mask and ranked in order » Dryness overall, and to fit him or her properly.
team of ScubaLab test divers their top three favorites in effectiveness of seals and
dived with them at Alexander each of two mask categories purge valves For full test scores and more
Springs in central Florida. — dual-lens and single- » Field of view, both vertical about test procedures, go to
Using underwater slates and lens models. and horizontal scubadiving.com.

SINGLE LENS
DIVE RITE
E S 1 55
PRICE $80 CONTACT diverite.com
The frameless ES155 offers a wide-open view through

the ultraclear glass of its lens. The skirt does a good job
of sealing on a variety of face shapes, although divers
with smaller faces thought the nose pocket was a bit tall
and wide. The strap is comfortable and of a little heavier
construction than most, with thicker sections at the ad-
justment tabs and at the back. We’ve seldom managed
to break straps, but the beefy dimensions give us the im-
pression the ES155 can take some rough handling. The
push-button buckles attach close to the lens on soft tabs
that give them enough freedom of movement for a good
fit, and the overall shape of the mask allowed it to sit
close to the face, making for a good view up, down and
to the sides. Divers rated the ES155 very good for field of
view, adjustment, dryness and ease of clearing.
COMFORT
POOR EXCELLENT
] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ]
FIELD OF VIEW
POOR EXCELLENT
] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ]
IST SPORTS
MP110
PRICE $45 CONTACT istsports.com
To answer the question asked most about the MP110 by

test divers: Yes, it comes in colors other than all white.
“Would not buy white mask,” one test diver noted. “Feel
like I’m seeing way too much white,” another wrote.
Point taken, but that didn’t keep the frameless MP110
from putting in a performance that had divers prais-
ing it for its comfortable fit and leak-free seal. “Totally
dry in all positions,” wrote one test diver. That earned
the MP110 the high score for dryness. The mask also
earned very good scores for comfort, ease of clear-
ing and adjustment. Although some divers thought the
buckles were a little less intuitive than they might be
(the release buttons can be mistaken for rivets), once
you get it, they work without hassle, releasing easily and
staying where you put them. Another plus — the MP110
was the least expensive mask in the category, earning
our selection as Best Buy.
COMFORT
POOR EXCELLENT
] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ]
FIELD OF VIEW
POOR EXCELLENT
] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ]
HOW WE Shown on the graph accompanying each mask are that mask's scores for comfort (including the strap, skirt,
frame and contact points) and field of view (both horizontal and vertical, as perceived by the diver). The scor-
SCORE ing is as follows: 5 = excellent; 4 = very good; 3 = good; 2 = fair; 1 = poor. Test divers also selected their top three
favorite masks in each of the two test categories — dual lens and single lens.

POSEIDON
B L AC K L I N E
PRICE $99.95 CONTACT poseidon.com
The frameless Black Line does a good job of bringing the

lens in close for an uninterrupted wide-angle view. The
nose pocket is roomy but soft enough to make for easy
clearing. The skirt is wide and soft, with a smooth fin-
ish that sealed well and was comfortable. As with some
of the other masks in this category, the lens is angled
slightly downward to increase visibility in that direction.
That helped the Black Line earn a very good score for
field of view. The push-button buckle is straightforward,
and divers rated the adjustment very good. The strap is
comfortable, although it has a longer split than most; it
works well with a hood, but bareheaded, the top split can
ride up on the head. For a large mask, the Black Line
has a minimal internal volume that made clearing easy
enough, even after intentionally flooding the mask.
COMFORT
POOR EXCELLENT
] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ]
FIELD OF VIEW
POOR EXCELLENT
] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ]
SCUBAPRO
S Y N E RGY 2
$119; $129 with mirrored lens CONTACT scubapro.com
EXCELLENT
] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ]
EXCELLENT
] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ]
« CLEAR SKIRT OR BLACK? »

The best skirt type depends both on diver preference and dive conditions. Clear mask skirts have a
more open feel — of particular benefit to divers who are claustrophobic — and some divers say they
enhance peripheral vision. Dark skirts cut down on glare in bright water and are often preferred by
photographers because they can make it easier to see camera viewfinders and screens.

TUSA
M 1 001 F R E E D O M H D
PRICE $89 CONTACT tusa.com
The huge lens of the Freedom HD — 6 inches across and

more than 3 inches top to bottom — provides a jumbo
view. “I can’t even see the top of the mask,” one test diver
noted. That earned it top score for field of view in the test,
but the more impressive part of the mask’s performance
is that despite its size it was still easy to clear, and it fit
comfortably on a variety of face shapes. It also displayed
a nice attention to detail in design and execution. The
stainless frame clips at top and sides give it a finished
look, and the buckles and strap are well thought out. The
buckles are hinged to swivel 180 degrees on the frame,
and they also rotate up and down, clicking into five detent
positions for precise micro-adjustment to keep the strap
comfortably placed. “Really nicely designed and made,”
was how one test diver described it.
COMFORT
POOR EXCELLENT
] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ]
FIELD OF VIEW
POOR EXCELLENT
] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ]
XS SCUBA
CREW
PRICE $75 CONTACT xsscuba.com
EXCELLENT
] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ]
EXCELLENT
] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ]
MULTI-LENS VERSUS SINGLE LENS because their smaller size can allow them to widest uninterrupted field of view because
The choice between mask types is partly a be shaped closer to the diver’s face. A small- they don’t have the obstruction of the nose
matter of personal preference and partly er volume is beneficial because it makes a bridge needed on a dual- or multi-lens mask.
a function of special requirements a diver mask easier to clear and equalize. They also Single-lens masks can’t be fitted with cor-
might have. Multi-lens masks, especially can be equipped with corrective lenses, which rective lenses and generally have somewhat
dual-lens models, generally have a smaller many manufacturers offer for their most larger volume, although many newer designs
internal volume than single-lens models popular masks. Single-lens masks offer the have significantly reduced volumes.

DUAL LENS
BODY GLOVE
FUSION
PRICE $24.99 CONTACT bodyglove.com
The Fusion tied the top score in its category for field of
view, thanks to the broad, deep inverted-teardrop shape
of the lenses. The strap buckles are supported on rigid
arms that extend out from the sides of the frame; they
are easy to adjust and stay in place well, earning a rat-
ing of very good from divers. The buckles also swivel up
and down, but unlike the other masks here, they don’t
swivel side to side. That, plus the slightly thicker, stiffer
silicone skirt on the Fusion, caused fit and sealing issues
for some divers. The nose pocket is on the wide side,
which keeps it from rubbing on those with more gener-
ously sized sniffers, but the thicker silicone makes it a
little tough for some divers to pinch their noses. Overall
the Fusion performed well considering its price is about
one-third of the average in its category.
COMFORT
POOR EXCELLENT
] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ]
FIELD OF VIEW
POOR EXCELLENT
] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ]
CRESSI
AIR
PRICE $94.95 CONTACT cressiusa.com
With its face-hugging design, the Air tied high scores

in its category for low volume and wide field of view. It
also racked up above-average scores for comfort and
dryness because of its skirt design, which was unique
among the masks in our test. The skirt has small creas-
es, accordionlike, where it attaches to the frame. That
allows the skirt to move a bit for a precise fit. The skirt
also has small ribs and slightly thicker layers where
more support is needed, helping to keep it in smooth
contact with the skin. The result is a second-skin fit
that is comfortable and effective at sealing. Also boost-
ing comfort are the soft, flexible tabs on the frame that
are used to attach the swiveling buckles. Impressively
comfortable and dry, the Cressi Air was one of the top
scorers in our test.
COMFORT
POOR EXCELLENT
] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ]
FIELD OF VIEW
POOR EXCELLENT
] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ]
Q: What factors did test divers find most important?

A: Test divers’ favorite masks took top scores
for comfort, with supple skirts, sot
nose pockets and no hard parts contacting the face. That's no surprise because an
uncomfortable mask can quickly take the fun out of any dive. — Roger Roy, ScubaLab Director

HOLLIS
M3
PRICE $119.95 CONTACT hollis.com
EXCELLENT
] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ]
EXCELLENT
] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ]
MARES
VIPER
PRICE $80 CONTACT mares.com
EXCELLENT
] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ]
EXCELLENT
] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ]
doesn’t properly fit your face, it’s simply the wrong mask for you. It's true that the design and materials of today’s
masks allow many models to fit a wider variety of face shapes and sizes than in the past. But you might still find
that some of the masks you try on won’t seal properly or are simply uncomfortable on your face, especially if they

OMS
T WO -W I N D OW F R A M E L E S S
PRICE $51 black, $58 clear CONTACT omsdive.com
frame to rub or press on the forehead — a key reason

divers rated this mask very good for comfort. Another
was the nose pocket, which has a size, shape and sup-
pleness that seemed to satisfy all; divers described it as
“butter soft” and “perfect.” The wide, soft skirt helped
earn a tying high score for dryness. The buckles are
nothing fancy, but they do the job without fuss, earning
the top score for ease of adjustment. Tabs on the strap
are easy to grasp, the strap keepers stay in place and
the buckle releases are easy to use. Also, the pins that
attach the buckle to the skirt and the strap are stainless
rather than plastic, a nice touch. For its impressive per-
formance at a price well below the average here, the
Two-Window Frameless is our Best Buy in this category.
COMFORT
POOR EXCELLENT
] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ]
FIELD OF VIEW
POOR EXCELLENT
] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ]
SEAC
L 70
PRICE $95 CONTACT seacusa.com
With its semiframeless design, ultralow volume and

minimalist proportions, the L70 has the look of a
freediving mask. The model we tried, with its white
frame and clear skirt, had us reaching up to make sure
we had a mask on before entering the water. The small
volume and close-to-the-eyes design earned the L70
very good ratings for field of view and for ease of
clearing and equalizing. Despite its size, the L70 has a
generously sized nose pocket, and the mask fit a variety
of face sizes. Some divers noted the close-fitting design
perceptibly reduced drag, and liked the almost painted-
on feel of the mask. Others divers found the L70 a little
too little, with the 3-D buckles feeling a bit insubstantial
and the mask so close fitting that their eyes seemed too
near the lenses. But for divers who want a mask with
a wide field of view and ultralow volume, the L70 fits
the bill.
COMFORT
POOR EXCELLENT
] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ]
FIELD OF VIEW
POOR EXCELLENT
] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ]
create pressure at points, such as the frame pressing on your forehead. If a mask fails to seal or is uncomfortable
when you’re in the dive shop or store, you can be sure it won’t get any better once you're actually in the water. So
SHUTTERSTOCK
keep trying on masks until you find the one that gives a perfect seal along the whole length of the skirt and that
doesn’t rub or press at the nose pocket, frame or lenses.

DUAL LENS
SHERWOOD SCUBA
V I DA
PRICE $70 CONTACT sherwoodscuba.com
patches on each side to aid grip while the frame on both
prevent the mask from being overtightened or riding un-
release 3-D buckles, which attach to silicone tabs on the
It was also rated very good for adjustment, dryness and
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1 BODY GLOVE PASSAGE

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A sand tiger slices through

a baitball around the bow of
North Carolina’s Caribsea.

hy do the Top 100 Readers
W Choice Awards, now in their
23rd year, still matter to divers?
Because these are your picks, based
on thousands of votes from the most
experienced dive travelers on the
planet. Why do they matter to us?
Because every month you hear from
our editors on what we think matters
in the world of dive travel. This month,
we get to listen to you, and we’re tak-
ing notes. May we have the envelopes,
please? And the winners are …
HOW WE GOT THE NUMBERS Thousands of Scuba

Diving subscribers and online users rated their expe-
riences at dive destinations in a variety of categories
on a scale from one to five. Final scores are an av-
erage of the numerical scores awarded. A minimum
number of responses was required for a destination
to be included in these ratings.
BEST OVERALL DIVING P 36

BEST WRECK DIVING P 40
BEST BIG ANIMALS P 42
B E ST M AC RO P 4 5
B E ST A DVA N C E D D I V I N G P 4 7
B E S T C AV E / C AV E R N / G R O T T O P 5 0

2 0 1 6
T OP
100 BEST OVERALL DIVING

READERS
C H O I C E
A W A R D S
TOP PICKS
CARIBBEAN
AND ATLANTIC
1 BONAIRE
2 CAYMAN ISLANDS
3 MEXICO
4 BAY ISLANDS
5 BAHAMAS
NORTH AMERICA
1 BRITISH COLUMBIA
2 NORTH CAROLINA
3 CALIFORNIA
4 FLORIDA
5 WASHINGTON
PACIFIC AND
INDIAN
OCEANS
1 INDONESIA »
2 MICRONESIA
3 PALAU
4 GALAPAGOS
5 RED SEA
A trevally sticks
close to its
protector, the jelly-
fish Thysanostoma
loriferum, at dusk
in Alor, Indonesia;
(opposite) a diver
swims through the
famed opening at
Misool’s Boo Rocks,
a favorite site for
photographers.

PAC I F I C A N D I N D I A N O C E A N S
INDONESIA
If the host of accolades from
this year’s Top 100 alone don’t
convince you of Indonesia’s great-
ness — Best Macro, Healthy Marine
Environment, Best Underwater
Photography, not to mention Best
Overall Diving — we’re not sure what
will. But we’ll keep piling on until we
prove this archipelago of more than
17,000 islands has something for ev-
eryone. For metalheads, Bali is home
to the most photogenic wreck on the
planet — and perhaps most acces-
sible — a U.S. Liberty-class ship lying
25 yards of Tulamben’s rocky shore.
Healthy reefs and fish overload more
your style? Eastern Indonesia’s Raja
Ampat has hundreds of sites with
colorful reefs where schools of fish
are so thick you won’t be able to see
your buddy. Macro divers will go
gaga for the nudibranchs and weird
FROM LEFT: ERIC MADEJA; BRANDON COLE
critters in Lembeh; big-fish aficiona-

dos will love Komodo’s manta trains;
and wall divers will get vertigo in
Wakatobi. One trip to Indonesia and
you’ll see what all the fuss is about.
Just remember to tell your friends.
— David Espinosa

BEST OVERALL DIVING
MORE TOP C A R I B B E A N A N D AT L A N T I C
100
WINNERS
BONAIRE
Diving is such an integral part
of this spunky desert island not
far from South America that it’s
BEST VISIBILITY hard to separate the underwa-
Caribbean
ter and topside experience. Luck-
and Atlantic ily, you don’t have to, because
1 CAYMAN ISLANDS 24/7 access to its vibrant near-
2 MEXICO shore reefs is what sets Bonaire
3 CURAÇAO apart. If there’s a place you can
4 BONAIRE have more fun than piloting your
5 BAHAMAS rental truck around Bonaire’s
cactus-lined ring road, pulling off
to submerge almost anywhere —
slowing down just long enough
to admire the flamingos or grab
a burger at the kiteboarders
beach — we haven’t heard of it.
— Mary Frances Emmons
North America
1 FLORIDA SPRINGS
2 CALIFORNIA
3 KEY LARGO, FLA.
4 BRITISH COLUMBIA
5 NORTH CAROLINA
Pacific and
Indian Oceans
1 HAWAII
2 RED SEA
3 PALAU
4 MALDIVES
5 MALAYSIA
HEALTHIEST
MARINE
ENVIRONMENT
Caribbean
and Atlantic
1 CAYMAN ISLANDS
2 BONAIRE
3 MEXICO
4 BAHAMAS
5 BAY ISLANDS
North America
1 BRITISH COLUMBIA
2 WASHINGTON
3 CALIFORNIA
4 FLORIDA
5 NORTH CAROLINA
Pacific and
Indian Oceans
1 INDONESIA
2 GALAPAGOS
3 PALAU
4 HAWAII
5 FIJI
Salt Pier is one of Bonaire’s

best-loved shore dives.

2 0 1 6
TO P
100
READERS
C H O I C E
A W A R D S
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: BRANDON COLE (2); DAVID HALL. OPPOSITE, FROM LEFT: SHUTTERSTOCK; ALLISON VITSKY SALLMON
NORT H A M E R IC A
BRITISH
COLUMBIA
Your first B.C. dive will likely
take your breath away,
and not just because of the
refreshing 50-degree water.
Novice and expert divers
alike regularly rate Vancouver
Island the planet's finest
coldwater diving. The mix of
engaging critters, hot inver-
tebrate colors, artificial reefs
extraordinaire, rugged scenic
beauty and warm Canadian
hospitality ensure your
return. — Brandon Cole
A harbor seal glides through

bull kelp (top); a red Irish lord
(bottom left); a giant plumose
anemone and giant sunflower
sea star (bottom right).

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T OP
100 BEST WRECK DIVING

READERS
C H O I C E
TOP PICKS
A W A R D S
CARIBBEAN
AND ATLANTIC
1 BAHAMAS
2 CAYMAN ISLANDS
3 BAY ISLANDS
See them now: WWII wrecks 4 CURAÇAO
like Fujikawa Maru are 5 BONAIRE
disintegrating; this section
has collapsed since this NORTH AMERICA
never-before-published 1 NORTH CAROLINA
photo was taken. 2 FLORIDA
3 WASHINGTON
4 CALIFORNIA
5 GREAT LAKES
PACIFIC AND
INDIAN OCEANS
« 1 CHUUK
2 RED SEA
3 PALAU
4 THAILAND
5 HAWAII
MICHAEL GERKEN. OPPOSITE, FROM TOP: STEPHEN FRINK/CORBIS; SHUTTERSTOCK; MICHAEL GERKEN; BARRY BROWN
CHUUK
Many places boast a few shipwrecks as gee-whiz alternatives
to biological reefs, but there’s only one Chuuk, also known as
Truk. More than 50 Japanese ships, planes, subs and all man-
ner of machinery, weaponry and fascinating (and sobering)
wartime history are on display, the result of America’s dead-
ly aerial barrage on the Japanese fleet in February 1944. This
warm, calm lagoon in Micronesia holds a World War II mari-
time museum without equal. The 433-foot-long Fujikawa
Maru is superb, both for military and marine-life attractions
— Zero fighter planes in the hold, deck guns draped in soft cor-
als — and is shallow enough for novices. Tec divers descend 175
feet onto the phenomenal San Francisco to see tanks, trucks
and bombs. Shinkoku ofers bright invertebrates and school-
ing fish; inside, a soldier’s bones rest in sick bay. Chuuk is also a
mass grave, a testament to the tragedy of war. — Brandon Cole
C A R I B B E A N A N D AT L A N T I C
BAHAMAS MORE TOP
You might expect that a nation of

700 islands would boast a mas-
100
WINNERS
sive collection of downed ships
— and it does. Your favorite might
change to whichever one you BEST WALL
dived last, be it the shallow and DIVING
marine-life-rich SS Sapona car- Caribbean
go steamer off Bimini or Edward and Atlantic
Williams off New Providence, 1 CAYMAN ISLANDS
where you’ll likely come face to 2 MEXICO
face with Caribbean reef sharks 3 BAY ISLANDS
and goliath grouper. 4 BELIZE
— Brooke Morton 5 BAHAMAS
North America
1 WASHINGTON
2 BRITISH COLUMBIA
The boiler is a standout feature

on the 19th-century wreck San
Jacinto off Green Turtle Cay near
Great Abaco.
NORT H A M E R IC A
NORTH CAROLINA Pacific and
Indian Oceans
Diving North Carolina’s 1 PALAU
2 RED SEA
wrecks doesn’t force you to
3 HAWAII
choose between swimming
4 FIJI
the top deck alongside sand
5 INDONESIA
tiger sharks or penetrating.
At a handful of sites, including
the USS Indra and the tanker
BEST SHORE
Atlas, drop inside tight quar- DIVING
ters to navigate alongside Caribbean
these big fish. — Brooke Morton and Atlantic
1 BONAIRE
2 CURAÇAO
3 CAYMAN ISLANDS
4 BAY ISLANDS
5 BELIZE
North America
1 FLORIDA
2 CALIFORNIA
3 WASHINGTON
Pacific and
Indian Oceans
1 HAWAII
2 INDONESIA
3 PHILIPPINES
4 RED SEA
5 MALAYSIA
The German sub known as

U-352 is one of North Carolina’s
most popular wreck dives.

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T OP
100 BEST BIG ANIMALS

READERS
C H O I C E
A W A R D S
TOP PICKS
CARIBBEAN
AND ATLANTIC
1 BAHAMAS »
2 TURKS AND CAICOS
3 BELIZE
4 CAYMAN ISLANDS
5 MEXICO
NORTH AMERICA
1 NORTH CAROLINA
2 FLORIDA
3 CALIFORNIA
4 WASHINGTON
5 BRITISH COLUMBIA
PACIFIC AND
INDIAN OCEANS
1 GALAPAGOS
2 PALAU
3 HAWAII
4 COSTA RICA
5 MALDIVES
Divers travel from

far and wide to
experience a close
pass from a Bimini
great hammerhead;
Atlantic spotted
dolphins (opposite)
can materialize at
any time.

BAHAMAS
Everyone likes a sure thing. Thus the
Bahamas continues to rate so highly
for big animals. Unlike ultra-remote
locales requiring liveaboards and
overnight motors before day one
begins, here, hammerheads or
Caribbean reef sharks mug for your
lens just as soon as you unpack
and assemble gear. Plus, the vari-
ety of species calling these islands
home or waypoint is incredible. The
hammerheads of Bimini. Oceanic
whitetips of Cat Island. Tigers of
Grand Bahama. And the place that
helped the nation become synony-
mous for sharks: Nassau. Hopscotch
between a few spots and you’ll
quickly amass a portfolio of species
— plus learn the behavior not only
of the sharks but of the goliath grou-
per that serve as shark-feed second
FROM LEFT: BILL FISHER; JON CORNFORTH
acts. One more perk: Although not as

reliably seen, wild Atlantic spotted
dolphins regularly cruise Bimini and
the Little Bahama Bank, creating an
ideal opportunity for those who’ve
been wowed by the main attraction
but want the show to continue.
— Brooke Morton

BEST BIG ANIMALS
MORE TOP GALAPAGOS
100
WINNERS
You could go to Galapagos just
to see table-size black-blotched
rays, quizzical sea lions, torna-
does of barracuda and jacks,
BEST BEGINNER turtles and manta rays galore.
DIVING But really, you’re deluding your-
Caribbean self if you go for any other
and Atlantic reason than sharks — clouds of
1 BONAIRE hammerheads and whitetips,
2 DOMINICA solitary tigers and packs of burly
3 CURAÇAO Galapagos. — David Espinosa
4 CAYMAN ISLANDS
5 BAHAMAS
Juvenile Galapagos sea lions

play in a shallow cove at
Champion Island.
North America
1 FLORIDA
2 CALIFORNIA
3 WASHINGTON Cigar minnows and a majestic
sand tiger lead a diver near
Pacific and the Spar, one of the many
Indian Oceans wrecks in North Carolina.
1 HAWAII
2 INDONESIA
3 PHILIPPINES
4 THAILAND
5 RED SEA
BEST
UNDERWATER
PHOTOGRAPHY
Caribbean
and Atlantic
1 CAYMAN ISLANDS
2 BONAIRE
3 BAHAMAS
4 BAY ISLANDS
5 MEXICO
North America
1 BRITISH COLUMBIA
2 CALIFORNIA
3 FLORIDA
4 NORTH CAROLINA
5 WASHINGTON NORT H A M E R IC A
NORTH CAROLINA
Pacific and
Indian Oceans They’re big, and they’re slow.
1 INDONESIA Sand tigers, the predominant
2 CHUUK shark species off North Caro-
3 PHILIPPINES lina, lack a swim bladder but
4 PALAU
manage near-perfect neutral
5 RED SEA
buoyancy thanks to an abil-
ity to gulp air at the surface. It
explains why they’re among
the least hurried big animals,
good news for photographers
or any diver who simply
wants to prolong face time
with these snaggletoothed
scavengers. — Brooke Morton

2 0 1 6
TO P
BEST MACRO 100 READERS

C H O I C E
A W A R D S
Clockwise from top left: A cryptic

teardrop crab; sharpnose puffer;
squat shrimp; bearded fireworms
(shot under blue light at night);
spotted eel; goby in tube sponge.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: TERRENCE ROSS/TOM STACK & ASSOCIATES (2); JENNIFER PENNER; BARRY BROWN; WAYNE MACWILLIAMS;
TIMSIMAGESUNDERWATER/ALAMY. OPPOSITE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: DOUG PERRINE; SCOTT JOHNSON; SHUTTERSTOCK (2)
TOP PICKS
CARIBBEAN
AND ATLANTIC
« 1 BONAIRE
2 CAYMAN ISLANDS
3 BAY ISLANDS
4 MEXICO
5 CURAÇAO
BONAIRE
NORTH AMERICA
1 BRITISH COLUMBIA
2 WASHINGTON
3 CALIFORNIA
Think you have to book a flight to Indo to see exotic nudis, seahorses and frogfish by the handful? That 4 FLORIDA
5 NORTH CAROLINA
ticket might be considerably less expensive than you think, for North American divers, if you aim for the
island of Bonaire instead. Decades of institutionalized protection and loving management of its pristine PACIFIC AND
reefs have helped to preserve an environment where nearly 400 species have been documented, most of INDIAN OCEANS
1 INDONESIA
it the small stuf beloved by underwater photographers. Looking to capture a particular subject in a spe-
2 PHILIPPINES
cific situation? Bonaire also ofers the ultimate freedom to plan your own dives 24/7, instead of waiting 3 PALAU
for the dive boat or competing with other photographers looking for the same stuf you are. Many of its 4 FIJI
resorts’ house reefs are literally alive with critters, so you don’t even have to crank up your rental truck 5 RED SEA
— just fall of the dock and start shooting. — Mary Frances Emmons

BEST MACRO
INDONESIA
Sure, Lembeh Strait is the
world’s epicenter of macro div-
ing, with enough crazy critters
— hirsute frogfish, microscopic
seahorses, kaleidoscopic nu-
dibranchs and more — to fill a
logbook, but don’t overlook the
enchanted islands of Komodo,
Bali and Wakatobi. With their
eagle-eyed guides, you might
not need a magnifying glass to
find it all, but you will need more
logbooks. — David Espinosa
A peacock mantis shrimp peeks

out of its burrow next to the fer-
ry pier at Banda Neira harbor.
N O RT H A M E R I C A
BRITISH
COLUMBIA
Decorated warbonnets, grunt
sculpins and candystripe
shrimp are just a few high-
lights to spotlight while shoot-
ing in Canada’s westernmost
province. Browning Passage,
a legendary site near Port
Hardy, hides so many macro
treasures the challenge is
not finding cool subjects but
deciding which ones to skip
and save for the next tank. So
many pictures to make, not
enough bottom time.
— Brandon Cole
A wolf eel munches on a red

sea urchin; the nudibranch
Hermissenda (far right) preys
on stinging hydroids.

2 0 1 6
TO P
TOP PICKS BEST ADVANCED DIVING 100 READERS

C H O I C E
A W A R D S
CARIBBEAN
AND ATLANTIC
1 CAYMAN ISLANDS »
2 MEXICO
3 BAY ISLANDS Rebreathers let divers see
4 BONAIRE Kittiwake in a new way.
5 BELIZE
NORTH AMERICA
1 BRITISH COLUMBIA
2 NORTH CAROLINA
3 FLORIDA
4 WASHINGTON
5 CALIFORNIA
PACIFIC AND
INDIAN OCEANS
1 PALAU
2 INDONESIA
3 COSTA RICA
4 MALDIVES
5 GALAPAGOS
COPYRIGHT PADI 2012. OPPOSITE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: ERIC MADEJA; DAVID HALL; JEFF ROTMAN/NPL/MINDEN PICTURES
CAYMAN ISLANDS
Rebreather support, gas blends and technical
instructors are just a few reasons Grand Cayman
stays popular among those looking to widen skill sets.
Whether you’ve set your sights on the technical hori-
zon or are fresh from your open-water certification, all
three Cayman Islands encourage divers to step up their
game. Take the walls: They’re just one environment
forcing divers to grow experience, perhaps as they
realize they’re not getting narced until dropping deep-
er than anticipated. Learning happens naturally here,
and becomes a reason for travel. Kittiwake, the 251-foot
submarine rescue ship, isn’t just a fun photo op, it’s
also a valuable classroom for harnessing navigation or
penetration skills. — Brooke Morton
BEST ADVANCED DIVING
MORE TOP
100
WINNERS
BEST VALUE
Caribbean
and Atlantic
1 MEXICO
2 BONAIRE
3 BAY ISLANDS
4 CURAÇAO
5 CAYMAN ISLANDS
North America
1 WASHINGTON
2 FLORIDA
3 CALIFORNIA
4 NORTH CAROLINA
Pacific and
Indian Oceans
1 RED SEA
2 INDONESIA
3 PHILIPPINES
4 PALAU
5 THAILAND
BEST
SNORKELING
Caribbean
and Atlantic
1 BONAIRE
2 CURAÇAO
3 BELIZE
4 BAY ISLANDS
5 CAYMAN ISLANDS
North America
FROM LEFT: SHUTTERSTOCK (2); BRANDON COLE. OPPOSITE: ALL CANADA PHOTOS/ALAMY
1 FLORIDA
2 CALIFORNIA
3 WASHINGTON
Pacific and
Indian Oceans
1 HAWAII
2 RED SEA
3 MALDIVES
4 THAILAND
5 FIJI
MORE
AWARDS
ONLINE
scubadiving.
com/gold
list2016

2 0 1 6
TO P
100 READERS
C H O I C E
A W A R D S
PALAU
If you’ve got the guts (and the right training), Palau has
the underwater terrain to challenge and reward you.
With dozens of World War II-era shipwrecks to penetrate,
deep current-swept reefs to fly along and dark overhead
environments to probe, the Micronesian archipelago is a
haven for advanced divers. And the local operators have
the knowledge and experience to support mixed-gas and
rebreather diving. — Eric Michael
NORT H A M E R IC A
BRITISH COLUMBIA
Adrenaline-charged drifts at sites with screaming
currents, such as Sechelt Rapids, attract a certain caliber
of diver. As does a deep drop to 130-plus feet to see eerie
cloud sponges and beautiful red gorgonians at Powerlines.
And then there are the wreckheads penetrating the many
purpose-sunk ships or on rebreathers surveying the re-
mote 285-foot-deep Transpac. Advanced rec divers and
expert tec divers love British Columbia. — Brandon Cole
A diver exits the purpose-sunk

wreck of an Air Canada 737
near Chemainus, British
Columbia (above); this “Jake”
seaplane — Allied code for the
Aichi E13A-1 Japanese navy
seaplane — went down off
Palau in World War II.

2 0 1 6
T OP
100 BEST CAVE/CAVERN /GROTTO

READERS
C H O I C E
A W A R D S
A diver contemplates Riviera

Maya’s spectacular Nohoch
Nah Chich cave.
TOP PICKS
CARIBBEAN
AND ATLANTIC
« 1 MEXICO
C A R I B B E A N A N D AT L A N T I C 2 CAYMAN ISLANDS
3 BAY ISLANDS
MEXICO 4 BELIZE
5 BONAIRE
NORTH AMERICA
An explosion in eco-adventure tourism has made the Mayan frontier an attractive destination 1 FLORIDA SPRINGS
for avid cave divers. Caverns as measureless as the imagination ofer unique opportunities for
novices, and miles of fresh exploration line present new adventures for seasoned explorers. PACIFIC AND
Glass factories of intricate calcite ornaments fill passages with eye candy. Massive speleothems INDIAN OCEANS
1 PALAU
are stacked like wedding cakes left melting in the tropical heat. Swimming through nature’s 2 HAWAII
time capsule, you’ll spot the exploration-line arrows of diving legends, and perhaps a few arti- 3 AUSTRALIA
facts of cultures lost. Refreshing water and endless tunnels present hours of soak time every 4 MALAYSIA
5 THAILAND
day. Accessible adventure, extraordinary beauty and a warm culture of colorful hospitality make
Mexico the top of the list for cave divers. — Jill Heinerth

PALAU
Adventurous (and properly
trained) divers know that Palau
harbors dark secrets ripe for
exploration. Over the eons, salt-
water erosion carved caverns,
tunnels and other exciting
structures into the Micronesian
archipelago’s limestone geogra-
phy. At such world-famous sites
as Chandelier Cave, Siaes Tunnel
and Blue Holes, those brave
enough to enter will find thrills
and mysteries galore.
— Eric Michael
Palau’s Chandelier Cave system

includes four air chambers where
divers can briefly surface.
A hole in the Santa Fe River

leads to Devil’s Ear, just one
portal to the underworld
among hundreds in Florida.
FROM TOP: AARON WONG; WES C. SKILES/NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC CREATIVE. OPPOSITE: LAURENT BENOIT
NORT H A M E R IC A
FLORIDA
With crystal-clear water,
Florida’s springs offer allur-
ing portals that beckon divers
into labyrinthine museums of
natural history. Cathedral-size
galleries, pristine fossilized
remains and a playground
of the natural variety make
Florida’s caves a seductive at-
traction for cave divers. The
freshening flow, tepid water
and easy dive access make a
return visit mandatory.
— Jill Heinerth
I N S T R U C T I O N A L T I P S T O I M P R O V E Y O U R S A F E T Y, S K I L L S A N D B O T T O M T I M E
DIVE HACKS Learn to pack

smart P 52 DIVE TIPS How
to find hidden treasures P 53
IMAGING Get your white bal-
ance right P 54 LESSONS FOR
LIFE Panic in the kelp leads
to disaster P 56
DIVE HACKS
/
A WEIGHTY
PROBLEM
DON’T BE ASHAMED TO ADMIT
IT; YOU’RE AN OVERPACKER. WE
HAVE A CURE FOR THAT.
BY ERIC MICHAEL
acking for dive travel presents a

P conundrum. Spread before you is
a vast arsenal, each piece essential to
fulfilling your travel fantasy. To bring
along all of the regulators, wetsuits,
computers, masks, fins and camera
gear necessary for a serious dive
mission (along with their backups and
batteries), you’ll need a fleet of roller
bags — and a Sherpa. But your airline
has strict limits on the amount, size
and weight of luggage, and violating its
limits can add up to an astronomical
cost. How can you make it all fit?
It might seem beyond the boundaries
of physics to bring it all along, but sav-
vy travelers have developed strategies, LEARN THE RULES two free 70-pound bags on one airline
techniques and tricks for maximizing Every airline is required to publish its — three for international travel.”
baggage allowances, avoiding ludicrous baggage allowance and overage charges
fees and making sure it all gets to so travelers know what they’re getting PACK A GOOD ATTITUDE
where it’s supposed to be in one piece. into. Professional underwater photog- Airline ticketing representatives and
Professional photographers and tech- rapher and rebreather enthusiast Chris Transportation Security Administra-
nical divers are some of the best of our Parsons, who has been known to fly tion (TSA) agents control your destiny
breed at subversive packing, schlepping with an excess of 250 pounds of gear, in many ways. Smiling and being cordial
easily damaged high-tech tools to the starts every trip with the fine print on makes a big diference to people who
most remote destinations on the planet. airline websites. “Although it is tedious, deal with irate travelers on a regular
SHUTTERSTOCK (2)
Here’s advice from four experienced I try to read the airline rules so I have basis. “I try to be extremely nice at the
dive travelers who know how to get all an idea about how best to pack,” he ex- checkpoints of all airports because I
of their gear around the world safely plains. “Having frequent-flier status on know they are doing their job and do not
without breaking the bank. an airline helps too. For example, I get understand what all of our equipment

is,” says underwater videographer Annie CONSIDER SIMPLE SOLUTIONS TRAINING
Crawley, who learned an important les- Don’t overlook your kitchen or
son in public relations on a return trip workshop. Ebersole packs breakable
TIPS
from Mexico to home in Seattle. “The items, such as the heads of rebreath- /
TSA officer decided my backpack carry- ers, individually in Tupperware and FIVE TIPS FOR SPOTTING
on with all my camera and computer puts the containers in his luggage. “It HIDDEN MARINE LIFE
equipment was too large to go through doesn’t add much weight and pro- BY TRAVIS MARSHALL
the security checkpoint and wanted me tects the items,” he says. For Palmer,
to check it in,” she says. “I ended up get- “Reusable Ziploc bags are essential for
ting the pack through, but it taught me organizing items, and the 2-gallon ver-
a lesson about the power of gate agents sion can vacuum-seal clothing.” Plus,
and TSA officers.” “Zip ties are indispensable. They are
the perfect TSA-approved disposable
SHOULDER THE BURDEN lock for your check-in bags. I always
For rebreather instructor and bring a big handful in the pocket of
underwater photographer Doug one of my bags.” (Don’t forget a TSA-
Ebersole, managing all of his gear on the approved cutting tool, in case you have
road “is almost impossible unless you to open them.) Camouflaged critters include
get creative with your carry-on luggage.” some of the most interesting in the
Laptop, camera, lenses and dive com- BE READY TO IMPROVISE ocean, but spotting them can feel
puters ride on his back and in the cabin, Airline baggage rules are constantly like a game of Where’s Waldo. To
and the rest of his kit goes into the hold. changing. The generous weight limit give you an edge, here are five tips
Kevin Palmer, a pro photographer and on a past trip will likely be lower for finding these elusive creatures.
manager at Reef Photo & Video, dons today, so there’s no substitute for
the most pocket-laden vest he can find. communicating with staf, asking the SLOW DOWN The slower you
“The best hang down to your thighs and
have 12 to 20 pockets,” he says. “If the
right questions and — in some extreme
cases — simply pleading for mercy.
1 swim, the better chance you’ll
have of spotting those camou-
flaged creatures waiting for you to
pass by.
“REUSABLE ZIPLOC BAGS ARE ESSENTIAL FOR ORGA- GET LOW Swimming close to
NIZING ITEMS, AND THE 2-GALLON VERSION CAN
VACUUM-SEAL CLOTHING.”
2 the bottom and scanning the
top of the reef line is a good way
to spot sneaky fellows, such as
octopuses, as they attempt to slink
dreaded carry-on weigh-in occurs, these “Many airlines are now weighing and away unnoticed.
vests can easily hold 10 to 20 pounds of requiring approval for carry-on bags,
stuf in the expandable pockets. Yes, you so I take a diferent approach,” says LEARN THEIR HABITS Many
will look like John Candy on a fly-fishing
trip, but nobody said diving was a
Crawley. “If I know they are check-
ing carry-on bags for weight, I open up
3 hard-to-find critters have
adapted to blend in with certain
glamour activity.” my backpack or hard case and show backgrounds, such as pygmy
them the equipment inside. To date, I seahorses that only live on
BRACE FOR IMPACT have been greeted only with kindness like-colored gorgonians. Learn
For the sensitive equipment you and understanding.” Palmer employs where they hang out, and focus
absolutely must check, think protec- a similar strategy. “Polite resource- your attention there.
tion above all else. Says Palmer, who fulness can almost always get you
once sacrificed his clothes for a bag with through. Start with, ‘Yes, it is a little LOOK FOR THE EYES Even
his camera: “Most travel bags for divers
are soft-sided, so making a protective
heavy, but this is packed with comput-
ers and photo gear. Don’t you have a
4 when their bodies blend
with the background, their eyes
‘frame’ is really helpful. Fins are great special allowance?’ Fifty percent of will give them away. A stingray
for this, as are shoes placed sole-out on the time it’s all you need to say. The can bury its body in the sand, but
the ends of the bag.” He also uses soft other half of the time requires a little if you see two dark eyes jutting
items such as wetsuits and clothing to planning ahead. I always carry a light- from the seafloor, you’ll know
create perimeter protection “from the weight nylon fabric bag stufed into a what’s underneath.
full-on airline-handler assault. Socks pocket of my carry-on. In a pinch, I can
make great padded sleeves for items whip it out and ofer to transfer some ASK A LOCAL Local
like dive computers and camera lenses,”
Palmer continues. “I usually reserve my
heavy items (batteries, a regulator,
etc.) into the additional bag. Often the
5 divemasters often know the
locations of resident critters. Men-
5 mm wetsuit for any backup glass ports airline employees are just trying to get tion what you hope to see, and
I might bring for my underwater cam- a bag below the authorized weight lim- chances are, the divemaster can
era housing, which rests safely in the it out of fear of losing their job and will take you right to it.
protective framework I have established be most grateful for your improvised
while clothing fills in the gaps.” solution.”

1 In the Basic panel of
BEFORE Lightroom, pop the White
Balance eyedropper out of
its dock by clicking on it
(keyboard shortcut “W”),
and move it over the im-
age. The Navigator window
at the top-left panel in the
Develop module gives you
a live preview of the white-
balance adjustment as you
move the dropper around.
2 Click on a spot that should

be neutral in the scene.
Don’t look for pure white —
the trick is to click with the
eyedropper in an area that
should be neutral (gray) but
isn’t. Some good spots to
start with are sand, silver
>>
fish or tanks. You probably

won’t nail it at first, so click
AFTER as many times as you need
to get in the ballpark. You
can always reset the original
“As Shot” white balance in
the White Balance presets
drop-down menu.
3 Use the Temp and Tint

sliders to fine tune your
work. If the image looks too
blue, ease the Temperature
slider toward yellow. If it
looks too pink, nudge the
Tint slider toward green.
Because the colors are op-
posites on the color wheel,
they neutralize each other.
If the White Balance
adjustment looks good
on part of your image but
throws the rest of it out of
TRAINING ome shots need just a whack, it’s time to use HSL
IMAGING S single click with the
White Balance eyedrop-
THE WHITE
BALANCE PANEL
The White Balance tools
or Lightroom’s local tools to
finish the job.
/ per in Lightroom or Adobe live in the top section of
THE Camera Raw to restore col-

or and knock out unwanted
Lightroom’s Basic panel
and consist of three
HSL — HUE, SATURATION
AND LUMINANCE
RIGHT ambient light.

Others, in which the white
main components: the
eyedropper, which samples
The HSL panel lets you
adjust the characteristics of
WHITE
WHITE BALANCING
balance isn’t the same across
the entire image, require
more specific editing to get
from pixels in the image to
set the white balance, the
Temp slider (blue to yellow)
specific colors individually,
but globally. Similar colors
across the entire image will
CAN MAKE them just right. The HSL and the Tint slider (green be afected.
OR BREAK AN panel works in concert to magenta). Hue is the actual color of
UNDERWATER PHOTO with local tools, such as the something — think
TEXT AND PHOTOS BY Adjustment Brush or Grad- royal blue versus
ERIN QUIGLEY uated Filter, to combine turquoise blue. Both
multiple white balances, or are blue, but they
to add local white balance have diferent hues.
just where it’s needed. Saturation is

the intensity of a color. Red or Orange. If you need by double-clicking the word
Saturated colors are more to increase the saturation “Efect” at the top right of
vivid, and desaturated of a color, resist the urge to the panel.
colors look gray. overdo it. Oversaturation is
Luminance is the light- a common cause of edited 2 Decide what color to neu-
ness or darkness of a color. photos looking “worked.” tralize. If you want to knock
back green, set the Tint
1 In the Hue tab of HSL, 3 In the Luminance slider toward magenta. To
move the color sliders to panel, lightening a color reduce blue, move the Temp
shift the corresponding col- (nudging the slider to the slider toward yellow. Don’t
or’s hue. Moving the Aqua right) makes it appear worry about pinpointing an
slider to the right mini- less saturated. exact setting right away, but
mizes cyan casts. Green do enter a big enough value
to the left pops anything so you can see where the
yellow. Purple or Magenta image is afected. You won’t
to the left ofsets pinkish see anything happen until
surface highlights. you add a brush or filter! After views so you don’t go
too far. Tapping the back-
2 In the Saturation tab of 3 Paint with a brush or add slash key in the Develop
HSL, move the sliders to a filter to the area you want module toggles a full Before
the left to desaturate areas to edit. Tap keyboard short- and After, and the keyboard
of corresponding colors in cut “H” to hide and show an shortcut “Y” toggles a side-
your image, or to the right outline and the edit pin. by-side view.
to saturate them. Don’t
desaturate so much that 4 Go back to the sliders
» Erin Quigley is an Adobe
the area looks gray. De- and finesse the result. If ACE certified digital-imaging
saturating Aqua or Green you need more muscle, consultant and an award-winning
neutralizes ambient light. THE ADJUSTMENT BRUSH add the Saturation slider shooter. GoAskErin.com provides
custom tutorials and one-on-one
If parts of your image are AND GRADUATED FILTER into the mix and desaturate instruction for the underwater
too warm, try desaturating 1 Set all of the sliders to zero slightly. Check Before and photographic community.
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TRAINING him, and Len had to work hard at the
LESSONS FOR LIFE surface to get it in place. When he was
finally ready to dive again, Len was ag-
/ itated and a little out of breath, but he
CAUGHT IN THE KELP

BUOYANCY PROBLEMS AND ENTANGLEMENT CAUSE DIVER
was able to descend.
The second dive was shallower than
the first, with a maximum depth of
TO PANIC BY ERIC DOUGLAS 40 feet. Len and Steve were closer to
the shore, so they could feel the wave
surge. It pushed them from side to
side as they swam, and caused the kelp
to sway back and forth. The dive bud-
dies skirted the kelp bed for most of
the dive, but because Len was run-
ning low on air they decided it would
be faster to return to the boat straight
through the middle of the kelp.
THE ACCIDENT
As they swam through the kelp bed,
Len and Steve became separated.
When Steve made it back to the boat,
he realized Len wasn’t there and im-
mediately returned to look for him.
When Steve finally found his dive
buddy, Len was unconscious and tan-
gled up in kelp. There was a large stalk
wrapped around his leg and small-
er limbs tangled in his gear. Steve
cut Len free with his dive knife and
brought his buddy to the surface. The
boat crew retrieved Len from the wa-
ter and initiated CPR, but Len never
regained consciousness.
ANALYSIS
Len ran out of air on the bottom and
drowned after being ensnared in kelp.
That is what killed him, but the fac-
tors that led to Len’s death include his
en’s buoyancy was driving him using a rented weight-integrated BC struggle with buoyancy and feelings of
L crazy. He constantly sank to the
bottom or floated toward the surface
for the first time. He had divided his
weights between the weight pockets
discomfort in the water.
When Len got in the water for the
out of control, and he felt like he was and his weight belt to even himself out second dive, he forgot his weight belt
never going to get it right. While ev- in the water. and then grappled to get it in place. He
eryone said the kelp forest was beauti- was probably embarrassed for mak-
ful, Len just couldn’t relax and enjoy THE DIVE ing his dive buddy wait for him, and
the dive. Every few feet, his fins were The first dive of the day was in 60 feet he was somewhat out of breath from
tangled up and he had to stop and of water and lasted 40 minutes, the efort. The wave action he felt
clear them. While he was doing that, and Len struggled with the new and underwater kept him from relaxing
he would sink to the bottom and get unfamiliar equipment. and controlling his breathing, and it is
tangled up again. Back on the boat during the surface easy to imagine that Len felt agitated
And now he couldn’t find his dive interval, Len talked to his buddy, throughout the dive as he fought with
buddy. This dive was not going well. Steve, about better ways to adjust his his gear and his buoyancy.
weights and improve his control. Steve Kelp can be one of the most
THE DIVER was a more experienced diver and beautiful diving environments, but it
Len was 37 years old and had made gave some advice, but he was neither a can also be frustrating and dangerous
a total of 20 dives over two years. He divemaster nor an instructor. if a diver gets twisted in it, sometimes
was in moderate physical condition When Len got in the water for the obscuring vision and making it difficult
MIKO MACIASZEK
but hadn’t exercised recently. second dive, he couldn’t descend to stay with a buddy. Kelp can be bro-
Len wore a recently purchased and realized that he had forgot- ken or cut, but pulling against it makes
7 mm wetsuit, suitable for the cooler ten his weight belt back on the boat. it nearly impossible to break free.
water near his home, and he was The divemaster brought his belt to Len was likely already distressed

when he and Steve made the decision his breathing under control. new diver’s imagination; most divers
to head straight through the kelp bed, The decision to return to the boat are happy to help out however they
and that quickly escalated to fear through the kelp bed was the next can. We’ve all been there. But if your
as he became entangled and tried mistake. Even if Len had run low on dive buddy is judging you, then it is
— unsuccessfully — to free himself. air and had to ascend before returning time to find a new buddy.
When panic sets in, it is very difficult to the boat, a long surface swim would There is no dive worth dying for.
for a person to calm down and focus on have been preferable to drowning. Divers should practice the credo that
what needs to be done. Tunnel vision It’s not uncommon for new divers any diver can call any dive for any rea-
narrows the options, and the diver’s to be embarrassed by their own lack son at any time. Conditions weren’t
body tells him to flee. Training and of comfort in the water, especially right for Len, and he should have
experience are the only ways to avoid when they are with more experienced opted out of the second dive.
panic in a troublesome situation. divers. Most of the time, it is the Failing to do so cost him his life.
Len was overweighted on the first
dive, causing him to bounce up and LESSONS FOR LIFE
down in the water column. He add-
ed air to his BC to get himself of the 1 CALL THE DIVE If you aren’t comfortable with a dive, for whatever reason, don’t be afraid to
bottom but likely added too much. call it. Head back to the boat and figure out the problem, and live to dive another day.
That caused him to ascend, and then 2 CHECK YOUR BUOYANCY Whenever you make a significant gear or environment change,
he dumped air, sending him right perform a buoyancy check to make sure you’re wearing the right amount of weight. A new
back to the seafloor. Before his next wetsuit might be more or less buoyant than your previous one. A new BC with diferent weight
dive, Len should have spent time on configurations can change your attitude in the water.
3 GET ADDITIONAL TRAINING Buoyancy control is what makes diving magical. Being able to
the surface performing a buoyancy
float efortlessly in the water column is the best part of diving. Some divers pick it up quickly.
check to determine the amount of
For others, it takes a while. If you struggle with it, take a specialty course or work with an
weight necessary for his new gear set-
instructor to fine tune your techniques.
up. After he completed the buoyancy
4 ORIENT YOURSELF TO LOCAL CONDITIONS Even experienced divers have been known to
check on the surface, Len should have
struggle with kelp when they aren’t used to it. Get a local orientation to a dive site when you
spent a few minutes near the bottom
aren’t familiar with the situation.
simply working on his buoyancy con-
» Eric Douglas co-authored the book Scuba Diving Safety, and has written a series of adventure novels,
trol, running through the drills he children’s books, and short stories — all with an ocean and scuba-diving theme. Check out his website
learned in his diving class and getting at booksbyeric.com.
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“GIVE THEM A WEEK THEY
WILL REMEMBER FOREVER.”
“FAMILIES FROM AROUND THE WORLD

UNANIMOUSLY AGREE ON THE
BEST FAMILY DIVE VACATIONS EVER.”
GRAND CAYMAN: June 18 - 25, BONAIRE: June 25 - July 2nd and family either sings a song or reads a
Divetech and Lighthouse Reef. July 30th - Aug 6th, IDC Buddy Dive poem they wrote or does a skit about
“Kids Sea Camp changes lives, one bubble at Resort. the amazing week we just had. My
a time. It sparks relationships with like-minded “Number one in my book for family dive mom always sings a song.”
families, inspiring kids to engage through vacations, highly personal, multi-generational, Zebedee Wakely: Happy Kids Sea
amazing experiences in and around the sea.” engages local culture. Each dive program is Camp Teen
Carolyn Pascal: Former Publisher of Sport created with a huge emphasis on safety, and
Diver & Islands Magazine education. Kids Sea Camp provides memorable ROATAN: April 23-30th and
and intimate experiences for each member of July 2-9, Mayan Princess and
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Anse Chastanet & Jade Mountain Rainer Jens: President of ers, March 26th - April 2nd
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when she chose to partner with family ocean conservation is to bring your children, community and family bonding through sports
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G E TAWAYS
THE
WORLD’S BEST
DESTINATIONS
FOR SAVVY
DIVERS

Massive black-coral forests create
caverns for divers to explore in
L LIVEABOARD ROCIO DEL MAR
San Pedro Martir, one of many
awe-inspiring dive sites in “the
aquarium of the world.”
MEXICO’S
MAGICAL MIDRIFFS
FOLLOW IN
JACQUES
COUSTEAU’S
WAKE
• THROUGH
THE NORTH-
ERN SEA OF
CORTEZ
TEXT AND PHOTOS BY CHRISTIAN VIZL
or divers, the words “Sea of week of diving with experienced local
F Cortez” conjure images of Jacques

Cousteau aboard Calypso, exploring
the place he deemed “the aquarium
guides who know the best spots.
Our first dive was at Isla Angel de la
Guarda, at a site called Los Nidos, where
of the world,” witnessing its abundance we encountered an amazing sargassum
and biodiversity firsthand. Very few have forest as tall as 20 feet high, with blue-
had that opportunity, but fortunately for spotted jawfish and orange pipethroat
us, there are more options for diving blennies jumping all around — I had
here today than ever before. never seen so many at the same spot!
The Gulf of California — also known While trying to capture them with my
as the Sea of Cortez — comprises camera at just the moment when they
approximately 62,000 square miles of widely displayed their beautiful fins (for
water, separating the Baja California mating purposes), I also encountered
Peninsula from the Mexican mainland. nudibranchs, scorpionfish, stingrays,
It’s thought to be one of the most di- mobulas, octopuses, triggerfish and
verse seas on the planet, home to a rich leopard groupers.
and unique ecosystem that hosts many I could have stayed happily in that
migratory species, such as the hump- same spot the entire trip. But there were
back whale, California gray whale, killer many other places to visit and animals
whale, manta ray, Humboldt squid and to encounter, so we moved in the after-
leatherback sea turtle, and the world’s noon to La Vela and La Muela dive sites,
largest animal, the blue whale. again full of macro life, and had our first
It also has resident populations of fin of many encounters with the famed
and sperm whales, and supports more California sea lions.
than 900 varieties of fish and more than As if this first immersion weren’t
5,000 species of micro-invertebrates. spectacular enough, the crew took us
Whale sharks, the world’s largest fish, for a dinghy excursion to visit the sea
are common as far north as Bahia de lion colony of Isla Mejia, just north of
Los Angeles, about 400 miles south of Isla Angel de la Guarda, where we saw
San Diego, in Baja California Norte. one of the most spectacular sunsets of
my life, surrounded by dozens of sea
CRUISING THE MIDRIFFS lions playing near the shore.
I set out to explore an area known as the Life aboard Rocio del Mar is
Midrif Islands — a group of more than energizing and fun; we were guided
50 islands, islets and pinnacles spread by Danya Gunnell, an experienced
out over about 80 miles in the northern instructor who leads dive trips all
central gulf, between Baja and Sonora — around the world. More than half of my
aboard Rocio del Mar, a 110-foot vessel dive buddies were from Denver, and
equipped to accommodate 20 divers most had enrolled in this trip for the
with everything needed for an intense whale shark encounters.

We had a dream-team crew: Rey, our
friendly captain, along with Norberto, his
engineer; Poncho and Joshua, preparing
delicious meals ready every time we got
out of the water; and Mayo, Pato and Gil,
our divemasters, who led our explora-
tions with the help of Beto and Julio
steering the dinghies.
LIFE-GIVING CURRENTS
In the Midrifs there’s usually current,
which is why there is so much life, due
to the nutrients it brings. At Angel de
la Guarda’s Punta Rocosa dive site, I
had my first encounter with a black-
coral forest, which started on a clif at
about 60 feet. I descended to about 100
feet, surrounded by schools of grouper
and angelfish, amazed by the pristine
beauty that made me feel certain that
very few people have visited this place
— a feeling that’s hard to find these
days. During our surface interval, a
pod of pilot whales swam very close
to the boat. A night in this area yielded
my first flying fish — attracted by our
lights, he stayed a long while.
About 60 miles south of Isla Angel de
la Guarda, Isla San Pedro Martir hosts
the second-largest sea lion colony
in the Sea of Cortez. We had memo-
rable interactions with the sea lions
L
during our visit to this remote area,
where we again enjoyed diving among
LIVEABOARD
a giant forest of black coral, encounter-

ing turtles, mobulas and schooling fish.
Later, while crossing to the “whale The Midriff Islands have it all: From
channel” between nearby Tiburon and playful pinnipeds and bluespotted
San Lorenzo islands, we saw a fin whale jawfish to up-close encounters with
and dolphins, some of which came close the biggest fish in the sea.
to the boat and played at the bow.
On the last day of our trip, we arrived
early at Bahia de Los Angeles to swim
with whale sharks, one of our most
anticipated encounters. It was a beauti-
ful, clear morning, with calm seas; we
spotted whale sharks right away as
we approached the end of the bay.
With great excitement we entered
the water and spent a lot of time with
them — perhaps eight surrounded us,
so all of our divers could enjoy their
company for as long as we wanted.
I went in and out of the water many
times, as did my fellow diver Jack Lopez,
73. He couldn’t resist one more jump,
saying it could be the last time in his life
he had a chance to see them.
But all of us found it an incredible and
memorable experience. Oregon diver
Cathy Jo Clearman, 40, pretty much
described everyone’s feelings: “Dreams
do come true.”

FIVE REASONS TO
DIVE THE MIDRIFF
ISLANDS ABOARD
ROCIO DEL MAR
01
SOLITUDE
03
GREAT GUIDES
The Midrifs are Local guides
a remote area know the area
in the northern very well; they
Sea of Cortez, take you to the
between the best spots and
mainland and the personally show
Mexican state you where all
known as Baja the interesting
California; Rocio stuf is.
del Mar is one
of the best ways
to get there. Say
goodbye to your
04
EXCLUSIVITY
phone signal and Trips to this area
enjoy the feeling are done only
of being one of from July through
few divers to visit mid-September,
this area. reinforcing
what a unique
02 experience it is.
STARRY, STARRY
NIGHTS
A great dinner
05
NITROX
under the stars in Nitrox is avail-
a calm anchor- able, making
age after playing it a more fun
with sea lions and safe diving
is priceless. experience.
NEED TO KNOW
WHEN TO GO Trips to the Midrifs

begin in July, and the last trip is
Sept. 17. Availability is limited; few
spots remain for some sailings.
DIVE CONDITIONS Although

conditions in the Sea of Cortez are
mostly calm, there are times when
the sea is rough. There is usually
current, but it’s mostly mild. Water
temperature varies from 72 to 82
degrees, so be prepared with at
least a 5 mm wetsuit. Visibility is
usually very good, but in a few dive
spots it can be limited.
OPERATOR Rocio del Mar

(rociodelmarliveaboard.com) is
110 feet in length, with a 25-foot
beam; it accommodates 20 divers.
All cabins have air conditioning,
a private bathroom and shower.
There is plenty of space to relax,
including a salon, a covered sitting
area and a covered sun deck.
PRICE TAG Prices start at $2,495

per person, double occupancy, and
do not include nitrox, marine park
or hyperbaric chamber fees.

D
DRIVE AND DIVE FLORIDA STREAM
SUPREME
FLORIDA’S
SOUTHEAST
COAST BOASTS
A DELECTABLE
STEW OF CUR-
RENT, REEFS
AND LIFE-GIVING •
NUTRIENTS
TEXT BY TED ALAN STEDMAN

P H O T O S B Y WAY N E M A C W I L L I A M S
et me get this right: a 10-foot
L hammerhead right of the

bat, followed by two portly
loggerheads, hubcap-size French
angels and a supporting cast that
makes me swear I’m diving in exotic
waters. Then a 10-foot sailfish lollygags
20 feet away during my safety stop,
something I’d never experienced
anywhere. All this at Boynton Ledge,
my first-ever dive in the waters of
southeast Florida’s Palm Beach
County? I could get used to this.
“Not bad for a first dive, eh?” says
William “Taz” Tuzinsky, the imposing ex-
police detective turned tec diver behind
Scuba Center Delray, my day’s dive op-
erator. “I get divers all the time who tell
me they’ll rethink plopping down $5,000
for exotic dive vacations.”
He’s got a point.
LUCKY CONVERGENCE 47-mile length of Palm Beach County. over a profuse tapestry of gorgonians,
If bragging rights are due for the Palm Finally, there’s the dynamic of the Florida barrel sponges and 15-foot ledges with
Beaches, as the county calls itself, you peninsula itself. As the interior heats, shadowed alcoves of snapper and jacks
can thank three auspicious factors. First, moisture-ridden clouds unleash massive peering into glints of sunlight. Along our
there’s the Gulf Stream, a conveyor belt convectional downpours that flow into flight path we come face to face with
of clear, clean, warm, nutrient-rich water estuaries, adding to the organic soup the vacant-eyed stares of several lemon
that provides a bufet for the entire ma- and sustaining incredible macro marine sharks, and at least two nurse sharks
rine food chain. The northbound current life along the Intracoastal Waterway as tucked beneath ledges. After we’re a
can be robust — and close. Just of Sing- well as the reef system. mile from our drop, it’s time to call it a
er Island, the Gulf Stream comes nearest day, and once again I get a parting gift
to shore at barely a mile out. Then A DELRAY DAY when I spot a green sea turtle employ-
there’s the reef. Swinging up from the With lodging in Delray Beach, a rental ing its finely serrated beak to tear sea
Florida Keys is the world’s third-largest car and my own dive equipment, I’m on grass swaying in the current.
living reef, formed from ancient beach a marathon, aiming to rack up as many Driving north to my next day’s dive
ridge complexes that anchored subse- dives as possible — a fairly simple quest rendezvous in Jupiter is an eye-opener.
quent coral growth. It’s a virtual divers because scores of dive sites are barely You can just smell the money in Palm
fun house, comprising an inner, middle, 10 minutes ofshore. After my intro dive, Beach. Gorgeous white sand, swaying
main and outer ledge system full of Tuzinsky takes me to nearby Delray palms, Bentleys and Mercedes, trendy
nooks, crannies, wrecks and rock piles at Ledges to the south. Talk about drift cafes — it’s almost surreal. But even if
multiple depths that parallels the entire diving. At 60 feet, we scoot at 4 knots the price of admission here is high, the

ITINERARY
THE PALM BEACHES, FL A.
DAY ONE
You won’t find better afordable digs
than Sundy House in Delray Beach, 12
guest houses and suites tucked in an
acre of tropical gardens a stone’s throw
from the beach. Sites are close, so you
can log two dives with Scuba Center
Delray and still have plenty of topside
time. Spend the late afternoon paddle-
boarding or kayaking at Delray Water
Sports, then indulge in pork cheek
empanadas or Korean fried chicken at
Max’s Social House.
DAY TWO
In Delray Beach, fuel up at Caffe Luna
Rosa (say yes to the banana waffles)
before your rendezvous at Jupiter Dive
Center. Afterward, visit nearby Arthur
R. Marshall Loxahatchee National
Wildlife Refuge, where you can canoe,
fish, bird-watch and experience a snip-
pet of the Everglades just minutes from
town. By now, you’re starved — dining at
50 Ocean in Delray Beach will satiate,
with dishes such as double-stufed
lobster rolls and scallops.
It’s not unusual to

see a dozen or more
lemons — plus
tiger, nurse, silky,
bull and hammer-
head sharks — at a
site called Lemon
Drop (above);
swarms of harm- DAY THREE
less moon jellies Get an early start for the drive north
to Scuba Adventures and a two-tank
are common too. outing. If the tides are right, you can
sneak in a shallow macro session at
world-famous Blue Heron Bridge, just
a hop from the dive shop. Pay a visit to
the Loggerhead Marinelife Center in
nearby Juno Beach to learn the story of
SHUTTERSTOCK (3)
marine-mammal conservation. Later,

enjoy the festive atmosphere on Singer
Island at Johnny Longboats, well
known for hefty burgers and beers.

August brings goliath grouper to one of
their most reliable spawning grounds,
Boynton Beach’s Castor.
on the brakes — not easy in the current

— I take in a bevy of angelfish, wrasses,
blennies and parrotfish that all sparkle
like gems in a jewelry box.
MACRO WONDERS AND

GENTLE GIANTS
If there’s one dive you don’t want to miss
in the Palm Beaches, it’s Blue Heron
Bridge at Phil Foster Park, christened
by many as one of the world’s premier
easy-access macro sites. The critter
list is a who’s who of macro stars, from
seahorses and pipefish of all stripes to
frogfish, batfish, stargazers and upward
of 100 species of nudibranchs. It all
comes easily because of its shallow
12- to 20-foot depth and choice location
in the protected Lake Worth Lagoon,
just beneath the bridge leading me to
diving is equal opportunity — a bargain, abrupt ledges for a gentle slope leading my next dive appointment with Jim
really, considering the variety, quality to a hard, steep wall. Sharks, turtles, Abernethy, owner of Scuba Adventures.
and convenience. green morays: check, check and double- “There have been eight species of
check. Our final dive at Blufs, known as newly ID’d nudibranchs at Blue Heron in
JUPITER RISING Jupiter’s prettiest, is simply extravagant. one year, plus three species of batfish
D I put this assertion to the test when I Intermittent sand patches of an ancient and six species of seahorses,” Abernethy
hook up with Philip Berg at Jupiter Dive riverbed separate a series of cul-de- tells me at the nearby docks, where we
DRIVE AND DIVE
Center. “It’s all about the Gulf Stream. sacs, each an aquarium unto itself. suit up aboard M/V Deep Obsession. But
We’ve got everything — manta rays, tons There are napping loggerheads in one. this macro mecca was not in the cards
of sharks,” Berg says during an en- Over there a small hawksbill munches for me on this day because of tides. “It’s
route rundown of today’s possibilities. on sponges. Down below an eagle ray a little tricky. You have to stay clear of
I learn that the area is dive central for flutters in the sand. Just ahead a lemon the channel and enter just before high
four world-class seasonal aggregations shark hovers above a ledge. When I put slack tide because of the currents,”
that divers go nuts for: lemon sharks
(January and February), marine turtles
(May and June), goliath grouper (August water temps drop to
and September) and lobsters (late spring 68 to 72 degrees; come
OKEECHOBEE
through summer). “Goliath grouper and spring, water temps hit

LAKE
JUPITER the mid-70s. Visibility

lemon sharks are huge here. We get des- JUNO BEACH averages 60 feet but
tination divers from all over the world can reach 100 feet
BLUE HERON MIZPAH
who come for these alone,” he adds. BRIDGE WRECK
during cooler months.
Our first drop zone is a threefer of WEST PALM
BEACH BOYNTON OPERATORS In Delray
sorts: a mile drift that begins at Captain LEDGE Beach, Scuba
NEED TO KNOW
Mike’s and continues past Area 51 to DELRAY Center Delray (scuba

DELRAY
just north of Juno Ledge. We fin diago- BEACH LEDGE delray.com) visits
nally and thread between ledges, peer BOCA RATON ATLANTIC
reef and wreck sites
into fishy grottoes and fly over sand OCEAN along the middle and
southern region to
flats where, just as Berg promised, we Boca Raton. Scuba
see it all: blacktip reef sharks, nurse WHEN TO GO Diving is DIVE CONDITIONS Adventures (scuba-
sharks, goliath grouper, loggerhead and excellent year-round. Most Palm Beach adventures.com) in
During spring, turtles County dives are drifts Lake Park visits Palm
green turtles, schools of blue runners of up to 1 mile. May
are mating, school- Beach ofshore sites
and parrotfish galore, not to mention ing sharks jump out through September while ofering custom
humongous barrel sponges and colo- of the water and ofers the calmest itineraries. In Jupiter,
nies of sea whips and fans. By the time eagle rays, manta seas and warmest Jupiter Dive Center
OPPOSITE: TAKAKO UNO
we’re ready to surface, I’ve added green rays and sword- water, hovering in the (jupiterdivecenter.com)
fish abound. With the mid-70s, though temps cruises the northern-
morays, a school of large barracuda and can reach 86 degrees.
cooler water of winter, most sites as well as
a school of horse-eye jacks to my list. larger fish move in. In fall and winter, wrecks and reefs.
Two more dives out of Jupiter are
just as riveting. At Spadefish, we trade

Abernethy explains.
Any dejection at missing Blue Heron
quickly dissipates when we giant stride
into one of the best dives in Palm Beach
County, the Corridor. The 1,700-foot drift
encompasses four wrecks, two rock piles
and reef slabs holding all types of marine
treasures — in particular, one diver-
loving goliath grouper known as Shadow.
We drop to 85 feet and, with the help of
current, immediately arrive at the Mizpah,
a 185-foot three-level Greek luxury
liner. I get all bug-eyed from the turtles,
stingrays, eels and swirling masses
of resident reef fish swarming around
the wreck. Abernethy beckons and we
continue past the wreck of the 160-foot
PC-1174 patrol boat, toward small pro-
truding reef ledges and rock piles where,
just as predicted, Shadow is waiting.
Print Subscribers
An orangethroat pikeblenny at Blue Heron Get FREE iPad® access!
Bridge, a legendary macro dive.
Say what you want about the do’s and

don’ts of interacting with marine life —
this 400-pound grouper has become a
revered mascot throughout the area.
Epinephelus itajara can grow to nearly 10
feet and reach 800 pounds. The species
almost crashed due to overharvesting
but was declared of limits to fishermen
Download
in 1990. Its numbers have since grown
to the point that there’s talk of lifting the
the app
ban, and that’s a big concern in the diving
community here. As I watch Shadow,
today
it’s easy to tell he (she?) has an affinity
for divers, and for Abernethy in particu- for instant
lar. The big grouper makes numerous
passes as Abernethy wields his DSLR,
twin strobes flashing. Shadow comes
access!
my way and purposefully rubs against
me, begging for scratches, I’m thinking.
It’s tempting, but I stay put, hugging the To Subscribe go to:
bottom while Shadow weaves between
Abernethy and other divers in an inter-
www.scubadiving.com/subscribe
species duet that is as poignant as it is Apple, the Apple Logo, and iTunes are trademarks of Apple Inc., registered in the U.S. and
other countries. iPad is a trademark of Apple Inc. App Store is a service mark of Apple Inc.
routine in this Gulf Stream water world.

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continued on page 72

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U.S. POSTAL SERVICE STATEMENT

OF OWNERSHIP, MANAGEMENT, AND
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CAVE OR SIDEMOUNT DIVE
of Headquarters or General Business Office of Publisher: Bonnier
Corporation, 460 N. Orlando Ave., Suite 200,Winter Park, Orange
County, Florida 32789; 9. Full Names and Complete Mailing
Addresses of Publisher, Editor, and Managing Editor: Publisher:
Laura Walker, P.O. Box 8500, Winter Park, Florida 32790; Editor:
PatriciaWuest, P.O. Box 8500,Winter Park, Orange County, Florida
AM !
A DRE
32790; Managing Editor:Ashley Annin, P. O. Box 8500,Winter Park,
Fl 32790. 10. Owner: Bonnier Corporation, 460 N. Orlando Ave.,
RIENCE
Suite 200,Winter Park, Orange County, Florida 32789; 11. Known
Bondholders, Mortgagees, and Other Securities: None; 12. Tax EXPE
Status (for completion by nonprofit organizations authorized
to mail at nonprofit rates): Has Not Changed During Preceding
12 Months; 13. Publication Title: Scuba Diving; 14. Issue Date for
Circulation Data Below: Sep/Oct 2015; 15a. Total Number of
Copies: 45,010 (Sep/Oct 2015: 43,257); b. Paid Circulation: (1)
Mailed Outside-County Paid Subscriptions Stated on PS form
3541: 29,940 (Sep/Oct 2015: 25,300); (3) Paid Distribution Outside
the Mails Including Sales Through Dealers and Carriers, Street
Vendors, and Counter Sales, and Other Paid Distribution Outside
Adventure Dives
USPS: 2,322 (Sep/Oct 2015: 2,080), c.Total Paid Distribution: 32,262 Guided by Qualified Instructors
(Sep/Oct 2015: 27,380); d. Free or Nominal Rate Distribution by
Mail: (1) Free or Nominal Rate Outside-County Copies included Cenote/Cavern & Cave Tours Available
on PS form 3541: 4,365 (Sep/Oct 2015: 8,305); (4) Free or
Nominal Rate Distribution Outside the Mail: 36 (Sep/Oct 2015: 0);
e.Total Free or Nominal Distribution: 4,402 (Sep/Oct 2015: 8,305); TRAINING: Cavern to Full Cave
f.Total Distribution: 36,664 (Sep/Oct 2015: 35,685); g. Copies not
Distributed: 8,347 (Sep/Oct 2015: 7,572); h.Total: 45,010 (Sep/Oct Sidemount • Poseidon Rebreather
2015: 43,257); i. Percent Paid : 87.99% (Sep/Oct 2015: 76.73%). PS
FORM 3526: a: Requested and Paid Electronic Copies: 8,044,
(Sep/Oct 2015: 4,782); b. total Requested and Paid Print copies
& Paid Electronic copies: 40,306, (Sep/Oct 2015: 32,162); c.Total
Print Distribution & Paid Electronic copies: 44,708, (Sep/Oct 2015:
CAVETECNOW.COM
40,467); d. Percent Paid and/or Requested Circulation: 90.2%,
(Sep/Oct 2015: 79.5%).
Playa del Carmen, Riviera Maya, Mexico • cavetecnow@gmail.com

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