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GIC Magazie May 2019
GIC Magazie May 2019
GIC Magazie May 2019
AMERICAN MADE.
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18 FEATURES
8 Product Roundup: Ingredient & Packaging
Innovations
New launches for beauty brands.
32 BY DENISE HERICH
24 Ungendered Beauty
To respect consumers, designers must find new ways to
32 Designing Distinctiveness
How beauty brands can stand out in a sea of sameness.
BY NICK VAUS
DEPARTMENTS
OTHER ALLURED PRODUCTS
6 Spark: The Marie Kondo-ing of Beauty Beauty Accelerate
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I
EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD n 2019, less is more.
Nearly 10% of Americans rent a self-storage space, translating to 1.7 billion square
ALISA MARIE BEYER feet of storage, or 5.4 square feet per persona. Meanwhile, U.S. municipalities are
Lemontree Partners scrambling to respond to China’s recent refusal to accept “foreign garbage.” This
country, like many other developed nations, has a stuff problem.
MOLLY BROOKS It’s no surprise that minimalism first came of age in the 1960s, a direct reaction to
Sephora Collection, North America the unprecedented consumer culture that had reshaped the post-World War II world.
HEATHER CONNELLY Today, a new minimalist wave is spreading, reflecting anxiety over everything from
CosBar excessive materialism to sustainability to industrial production to generalized stress
MARIE ALICE DIBON related to the speed and more-ness of contemporary life. Marie Kondo has emerged
Alice Communications, Inc. as a leading light in the movement, though the bestselling author’s philosophy notably
focuses on “sparking joy” more than it does the mere elimination of stuffb.
JESSICA ESTRADA
Beauty has been a leading indicator of this trend in recent years, featuring austere
Hue For Every Man
packaging and design that allows for lots of white space; low-energy processing and
BRIDGETTE HOWARD manufacturing; spiritual- and wellness-oriented brand concepts; simplified ingredient
Parlor West Ventures labels, with each material’s purpose overtly justified in marketing; zero-packaging
product design; scaled-back SKUs that streamline and clarify product selections; and
MICHAEL MALINSKY multifunctional ingredients and products that allow consumers to do more with less.
WUNDER2 To illustrate the market opportunity, the “WGSN: Big Ideas 2021-Beauty” report
FADI MOURAD encourages brands to “streamline products [and] offer better formulations featuring
higher active ingredients and multiple benefits,” and notes that water scarcity will
ADA POLLA increasingly impact product developmentc.
Alchimie Forever, While the beauty industry inevitably necessitates consumers purchasing physical
The Polla Beauty Group goods, innovative suppliers and formulators, product developers and designers, and
brand leaders are finding ever-more ways to deliver newness that requires fewer
ART RICH, Ph.D.
resources and offers shoppers an opportunity for a guilt- and stress-free purchase.
A. Rich Development
See you next month.
RICK RUFFOLO
R4 Innovations
CRISTINA SAMUELS
Mode Cosmetics a
www.sparefoot.com/self-storage/news/1432-self-storage-industry-statistics/
LAURA SETZFAND
b
It may be comforting to know that Kondo’s own beauty regimen for her hit Netflix series is anything but
minimal, featuring products from Tatcha, Herbivore, Laura Merciar, Clarins, Tom Ford and Smashbox;
Epiphany “Marie Kondo Has an Extremely Organized Skin-Care Routine,” www.thecut.com/2019/01/marie-kondos-
beauty-and-skin-care-routine.html
www.wgsn.com
c
Travel-sized Packaging
McKernan Packaging Clearing House Customized Packaging
www.mckernan.com Queens Packaging Co., Ltd
McKernan offers brands PET and HDPE bottles, including sizes www.queenspack.com
under 3.4 ounces, in a variety of colors and styles. McKernan also Queens Packaging’s design team works with brands to offer
stocks treatment pumps, CT closures, fine mist sprayers, lotion tailor-made customizations to meet specific needs and re-
pumps and dispensing caps to complement travel-sized packaging. quirements. The company aims to provide a one-stop service
from design, tooling and production.
From left: Amy Errett, CEO and founder, Madison Reed; Gregg Renfrew, founder and CEO, Beautycounter; Nancy Twine, founder and CEO,
Briogeo Hair Care; Vicky Tsai, founder, Tatcha; and Lauren Gores and Marianna Hewitt, co-founders, Summer Fridays.
C
EW recently gathered to The awards were followed by a valuation, which she said should
honor “the women who have panel discussion led by Shiseido’s Jill hearten every woman in the industry.
disrupted beauty,” as CEW Scalamandre. Errett added that women have to
president Carlotta Jacobson Renfrew, who came to beauty “have huge outcomes” in order to be
put it. These brand founders have with financial expertise, noted that taken seriously by male investors. She
left comfortable day jobs, broken the hardest part of building her noted that it was therefore important
Instagram, planned out businesses from business had been getting contract for women leaders to fund other
dining room tables, launched direct- manufacturing to come on board female founders to generate greater
to-consumer product ranges, formed with clean beauty. She joked that opportunity.
new categories like clean beauty, and some of these manufacturers had Hewitt concurred, noting that the
all have endeavoured to empower other nicknamed her company “Brutalc path for Summer Fridays was blazed
women. The honorees included: ounter” for its tough stances on by the female-led brands that came
• Amy Errett CEO and founder, ingredients. before it, making it easier to be “taken
Madison Reed She added that competition in seriously.”
• Lauren Gores Ireland, co-founder, the clean beauty space is a positive, Twine, whose loss of her mother
Summer Fridays creating allies in the fight to update helped propel her purpose-driven
• Marianna Hewitt, co-founder, cosmetics regulations in the United brand, said it was difficult to predict
Summer Fridays States, a core focus of Beautycounter. what the future would hold for her
• Gregg Renfrew, founder and CEO, Errett, who has a VC background, brand but noted that Briogeo will
Beautycounter noted that male investors didn’t expand into the wellness space soon.
• Vicky Tsai, founder, Tatcha initially understand size of the at- Errett concluded the panel
• Nancy Twine, founder and CEO, home hair coloring market. She discussion by noting that “great brands
Briogeo Hair Care also praised Glossier’s 1-billion-plus are about the why.” n
C
EW’s 2019 Product
Demonstration Night in New
York City revealed top trends
in beauty.
“With the addition of new categories
and the many new indie brands
coming on the scene, we continue
to be amazed by the innovations
seen across categories,” said CEW
president Carlotta Jacobson. “When
we started the Beauty Awards 25
years ago, products were very focused
on skincare, makeup and hair, but
new trends and innovative products
have continued to expand the beauty
industry into what we see now.”
Here are some of the hottest trends
of the night.
Vegging out
Superfood beauty was on full display,
including Loli, a brand which utilizes
Sustainability is the High and mighty
organic, wild-harvested ingredients new normal The buzziest bud in beauty, despite
Brands such as bar shampoo its lack of THC, was CBD, the star of
that are raw, fair trade and upcycled
purveyor Ethique boasted the Albea’s High Hopes, a line of cannabis-
from food; Yensa, which fuses eight
hashtag #giveupthebottle, while infused formulations across applications,
superfoods in each of its products,
Seed Phytonutrients debuted what and CBD for Life, which debuted bath
including its Essential Glow Tone
it claims to be the first shower-safe bombs. Milk Makeup’s Kush mascara
Up Primer; Youth to the People; and
paper bottle, crafted entirely of post- also made an appearance at the show.
Sahara Rose. Elemis displayed its
Superfood Nutrient-Dense Pre-Biotic consumer products and utilizing 60%
skin care range, set to expand in 2019. less plastic than a traditional bottle. Put charcoal on your list
Charcoal’s cleansing properties were
found in facial products such as acne
treatments from First Aid Beauty and
Origins, Freeman Beauty’s charcoal
mask, and Copper + Crane’s detoxifying
body polish. Herbal Essences introduced
a new charcoal shampoo, harnessing
those clarifying powers for the scalp.
A
t five years old, Glossier Inc. was also one of the direct-to-consumer brand and relationship with
just raised $100 million in brands with the largest year-over- its customers, and its business
Series D funding to “build year growth in 2018, expanding at a fundamentals are equally impressive,”
the future beauty company whopping 69%. said Michael Abramson, partner at
in collaboration with its customers.” “We are building an entirely new Sequoia. “This is one of the most
Sequoia Capital reportedly led the kind of beauty company: one that efficient direct-to-consumer businesses
round, in addition to contributions owns the distribution channel and we’ve encountered, and with this new
from Tiger Global Management, Spark makes customers our stakeholders,” capital, we believe Glossier is well
Capital, Forerunner Ventures, Thrive said Emily Weiss, founder and CEO positioned to define the next era of the
Capital, IVP and Index Ventures. of Glossier. “Thanks to this direct beauty industry.”
Glossier, which just expanded relationship with our customers, we “Beauty consumers increasingly
its offerings with the Glossier Play have access to endless inspiration for want to interact with brands and
collection, also announced that new products, experiences, and ways purchase products online: by 2024,
Vanessa Wittman has been named as of building an enduring business—all online beauty sales are expected to
the company’s CFO. Wittman has held while staying true to our core belief reach $120 billion globally,” said
CFO roles at Oath, Dropbox, Motorola that beauty should be a celebration of Megan Quinn, general partner at Spark
Mobility, and Marsh & McLennan. individuality and personal choice.” Capital. “The industry’s conglomerates
The company’s 2018 sales revenue The move is part of Weiss’ declared are ill-equipped to retrofit their
passed $100 million; it also added 1 “phase 2” of Glossier, which will feature businesses to this new reality. With
million new customers. a brand-owned social commerce its digital-first DNA and enthusiasm
Recent NPD data showed that platform that will harness control of for meeting consumers where they
Glossier has almost equal sales growth social media on its own terms. are, we believe Glossier is the defining
driven by millennials and Gen Z. It “Glossier has built an exceptional company of this new channel.” n
M
illennials have been Sam Farmer (SF): It isn’t who young adults are or how they
the apple of the beauty appropriate for all brands to address as should behave is old fashioned. Instead,
industry’s eye for some there is the potential to cause confusion brands are encouraged to target efficacy
time; however, the teenage and, as such, it is important to establish instead of insecurities and place the
consumers of Generation Z are proving the right intentions and reasons before focus on the product and not the
to be the new industry darlings. And attempting to target teenage consumers. intended gender of the consumer.
keeping these consumers satisfied may The category is complicated, nuanced Brands shouldn’t overthink it. If a
be more challenging than appeasing and requires brands to understand the brand is truly engaged with a particular
those in the generation before them. issues and opinions of young adults. message, this will come across in their
Global Cosmetic Industry consulted Teenagers today have a relaxed and communication. Bringing out a range
Sam Farmer, of Samuel Farmer accepting attitude toward gender of products in an attempt to be part of
& Co. Ltd., about teen consumers’ and how others choose to define a trend instead of leading the market
gender attitudes, the pitfalls of getting themselves. Gay marriage, gender with a strong message risks a real
marketing wrong and how brands can fluidity and equal rights are now part struggle for attention.
build trust through their products. of their everyday lives. Lastly, absorb everything the
Personal care products are relied consumer is doing. The teenage
Global Cosmetic Industry: How can upon to perform a basic but essential category is a complex, fickle and ever-
personal care brands address teens’ task and are accepted into teenagers’ changing sector. Listen, think and act
gender attitudes? private living spaces. Trying to define accordingly.
W
hether they’re looking for
a wedding makeup look,
an anti-aging skin care
routine or a new hair color
shade, consumers constantly flock to
Pinterest in search of the latest beauty
and personal care trends.
a
GfK, US, Pinterest Path to Purchase Study
among Weekly Pinners who use Pinterest in the
Category, Nov 2018
on Pinterest. What does this mean most out of their content on Pinterest channels. Promoted Video Pins earned
for brands? How can they better take is by leveraging our Audience Insights a reach of over 6 million people. The
advantage of Pinterest and its influence tool. Audience Insights helps brands team also ran a Millward Brown Brand
over consumers? understand what their existing and Lift Insights study and learned that ad
potential customers are interested in recall saw a lift of over 23%.b
Vikram Bhaskaran (VB): Pinterest based on their behavior on Pinterest. Another brand is City Beauty.
is a visual discovery engine. People With this information, brands can Leading up to the 2018 holiday season,
come to Pinterest with an open then sharpen their targeting, test and the luxury functional beauty brand
mindset, and they’re actively looking optimize campaigns, and duplicate wanted to increase online sales for
for inspiration on what to do or buy the top-performing campaigns and their top-selling product, City Lips
next. What’s more is that Pinterest ad groups. plumping lip gloss. They turned to
has the largest, most engaged digital Pinterest and they took a test-and-learn
beauty audience with over 52 million Global Cosmetic Industry: Can you approach to polish their creative and
monthly Pinners actively engaging provide any information on beauty hone their targeting strategy. They
with beauty content on Pinterest. brands currently working with Pinterest tested multiple Pin variations before
This presents a massive opportunity that have experienced success? identifying a clear winner. City Beauty
for beauty and personal care brands also tested a number of targeting
to connect with consumers and drive VB: Perfume and cosmetic company strategies, experimenting with
them to purchase. Guerlain was launching a new different interest groups, keywords and
The key is creating compelling fragrance, La Petite Robe Noire Black demographics.
content. Promoted videos are a great Perfecto and wanted to support the City Beauty’s campaign maintained
way to deliver content that both advertising campaign with unique an impressive 3x return on ad spend
inspires and engages consumers. Last digital creative with the goal of from November 2018 through the
year, we also introduced support for reaching women in search of a new holiday season. They earned a 5%
videos at maximum width, which perfume. Leveraging Promoted Pins higher click-through rates on Pinterest
are ~4x bigger, spanning across and Promoted Video Pins, Guerlain than on other digital platforms. This
Pinterest’s two-column grid, and developed iconic content that put the campaign also beat City Beauty’s own
this format has proven to be very new fragrance and its logo front-and- benchmark on Pinterest, earning
successful. Advertisers have seen center. them a 5x lower CPM than they’d seen
efficient costs-per-view and lifts in The Promoted Pins generated more before.cn
brand awareness methods. than 50 million impressions. They
Another great way for beauty and also saw a lower cost per impression b
Millward Brown Brand Lift Insights study, 2018
personal care brands to make the (CPM) as compared to other digital c
City Beauty data, 2018
18 Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2019 Allured Business Media. Global Cosmetic Industry | May 2019 w
T-1. Most compelling terms new skin care brands can use to entice consumers
Terminology
Age All Gen Z (18-24) Millennials (25-38) Gen X (39-53) Baby boomer (54+)
ranking
#1 Affordable (61%) Affordable (76%) Affordable (63%) Anti-aging (70%) Anti-aging (79%)
#2 Anti-aging (52%) Multi-benefit (40%) Multi-benefit (46%) Affordable (54%) Affordable (58%)
#3 Multi-benefit (45%) Natural (32%) Anti-aging (41%) Multi-benefit (46%) Multi-benefit (44%)
#4 High-quality (34%) High-quality (35%) High-quality (35%) High-quality (33%) High-quality (36%)
#5 Proven (31%) Proven (30%) Proven (30%) Proven (31%) Proven (33%)
20
Global Cosmetic Industry | May 2019 w
What would help convince a 3. Consumers Love • 76%: convenient to buy as a kit
consumer to try generic skin care? • 62%: easy to understand how/when
Their Kits!
to use them
• 72%: positive product reviews Skin care kits have experienced a • 52%: kits save me money
• 54%: friend/family recommendation surge in interest and usage. Sixty-one • 46%: best results come from
• 41%: consumer or clinical claims percent of consumers buy facial skin products made to be used together
(i.e., “95% saw a reduction in care products as a kit or a set, 55% • 36%: designed to address a specific
the appearance of fine lines and would consider giving a skin care kit as need that I have
wrinkles after one week”) a gift, and 75% would like to receive a
• 32%: clinical claims (i.e., “based on skin care kit as a gift! Here are shoppers’ Where skin care kits still struggle
a clinical study … ”) top five reasons for loving skin care kits: is the perception that, as sold, they
T-5. Top ways to convince shoppers to try generic natural/organic skin care
Percentage Motivation
61% offer free samples
58% keep the price lower than name brand products
56% offer positive product reviews
49% give me proof/consumer claims (98% agree product reduced the visible signs of aging)
40% clearly stated benefits on package
38% use safe ingredients
30% offer proof of no toxic/harmful chemicals
aren’t always of great value. Fifty-one organic and natural beauty/personal brand natural or organic product, and
percent of all consumers say the top care products, 48% using both name- 75% want to try a generic natural or
reason they dislike skin care kits is brand and generic natural/organic organic product. Ways to convince
that, if even one product isn’t used, the skin care brands, and 42% using only them to do so are listed in T-5.
kit offers no value, followed by “skin name-brand organic and natural skin
care kits are too expensive” (44%), “you care products.
For a Deeper Dive
can’t customize or personalize most Shoppers’ top reasons for using
skin care kits” (37%), confusion over natural and organic skin care include: For more data on natural and
which kit to buy (30%), and the simple organic beauty, readers can order
fact that many consumers like using • 73%: because they contain no The Benchmarking Company’s
multiple products by different brands harmful ingredients (www.benchmarkingcompany.com)
to meet their skin care needs (25%). • 72%: natural/organic is “better for “PinkReport: The New Age of
A list of qualities that would make my skin’s health” Naturals,” which provides a detailed
kits attractive to shoppers is detailed • 48%: these products are more look at the U.S. beauty and personal
in T-4. environmentally responsible care consumers’ affinity for natural
• 40%: “the products work for me” and organic beauty and personal care
products, as well as the motivators
4. Natural & Organic Although 47% of consumers claim and influencers that drive consumers
Continues to Appeal they aren’t yet using natural and to purchase more natural and organic
The appeal of natural and organic organic skin care, 58% say they are products than ever before. n
skin care continues to rise with very interested in trying these kinds
consumers, with 53% saying they use of products; 92% want to try a name-
22
Global Cosmetic Industry | May 2019
48,&.7851$5281'6–63(('720$5.(7
:::,&/3/&20__,1)2#,&/3/&20
24 Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2019 Allured Business Media. Global Cosmetic Industry | May 2019 w
Genderless Innovation
Brands are already making efforts
to launch gender-neutral products and
concepts instead of specific male/female
products, with the aim of enhancing
inclusion and expanding the range of
consumers. The search for freedom is
what leads innovators to think about
new concepts and ways of designingb.
a
Dominique Muret, “‘Genderless’ fashion rocks
the luxury sector,” Fashion Network, August 30,
2016; http://uk.fashionnetwork.com/news
b
“The Next Genderation,” as found in “Lifestyles
of Generation Z,” http://academic.mintel.com/
Olfactory notes of ungendered perfume 2.
display/859371/
Scent-to-Dance
At the 31st Brazilian Congress
of Cosmetology in Sao Paulo, we Examples of designs inspired from the olfactory notes.
26
Global Cosmetic Industry | May 2019 w
Example of EEG curve for music, dance type and olfactory profile of the perfume, evaluation at the exit.
Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2019 Allured Business Media.
28 Global Cosmetic Industry | May 2019 w
G
ender stereotypes Non-binary Mindset fluidity. It’s not good enough to simply
have been the According to research from J Walter focus on gender equality anymore: the
bane of branding Thompson Intelligencee, an increasing next generation of consumers are after
specialists for decades. percentage of Gen Z believes gender gender neutrality.
Remember the ridicule doesn’t define a person as much as it
when, in 2012, pen used to. More than half of 13-to-20- Dig Deeper
manufacturer Bic year-olds questioned in the 2016 survey Most gender identifiers are shallow
produceda For Her pens in “female- said they knew someone who went representations of who a person is,
appropriate” pink and purple, by gender-neutral pronouns such as and companies are taking note. Brands
“designed to fit comfortably in a “they,” “them” or “ze.” need to associate themselves with
woman’s hand”? Or when U.K. shoe Gen Z also tends to reject the beliefs, passions and hobbies that have
chain Clarks received complaints over gender binary while clothes shopping, nothing to do with whether the target
its Dolly Babe girls shoesb? with just 44% of those questioned consumer identifies as a man, woman
That marketers are still making always buying clothes designed for or gender non-binary.
such obvious blunders in today’s social their own gender. For example, the Sims 4 game,
media savvy society is, frankly, mind- As this generation matures, and its created by EA, recently introduced
boggling. Just recently, Kleenex was spending power increases, companies more options when creating characters.
forced to rename its Mansize tissues as have to ensure their marketing In addition to male and female
Extra Large after being criticized for messages reflect this new era of gender characters, players can create gender-
being sexistc. fluid characters and give female and
Similarly, U.K. supermarket chain male accessories and clothing to
Waitrose was lambasted by a feminist
e
“Gen Z goes beyond gender binaries in new
Innovation Group data,” www.jwtintelligence.
avatars of the opposite gender.
campaigner for selling a sandwich But what does this mean for the
com/2016/03/gen-z-goes-beyond-gender-
branded as a Gentleman’s Smoked binaries-in-new-innovation-group-data/ beauty industry?
Chicken Caesar Rolld.
Many will see these examples as
indisputable branding errors that
should never have ended up in
production. But setting the right tone
can be tricky. So how should marketers
navigate this complex landscape?
a
Hanna Furness, “BIC ridiculed over
‘comfortable’ pink pens for women,”
www.telegraph.co.uk/news/newstopics/
howaboutthat/9503359/BIC-ridiculed-over-
comfortable-pink-pens-for-women.html
b
“Is gender-neutral branding the future?”;
www.dacgroup.com/en-gb/blog/gender-neutral-
branding-future/
c
“Kleenex drops Mansize branding after
complaints,” www.theguardian.com/uk-
news/2018/oct/18/kleenex-drops-mansize-
branding-from-tissue-boxes-after-complaints-
sexism
d
Miranda Aldersley, “Waitrose is forced to rename
‘sexist sandwich’ in its Heston Blumenthal
range known as the Gentleman’s Roll after
campaigners slammed it on Twitter,” www.
dailymail.co.uk/news/article-6287773/Waitrose-
forced-rename-sexist-sandwich-known- With Almighty client Good Science Beauty, we’ve focused on ensuring the brand
Gentlemans-Roll.html communicates its scientific credentials instead of any gender-specific benefits.
30
Global Cosmetic Industry | May 2019
W W W. H C PAC K A G IN G. CO M
Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2019 Allured Business Media.
32 Global Cosmetic Industry | May 2019 w
“Find out who you are and do it on But there’s only one Dolly, combining brands considering exactly how they
purpose.” them all into one irresistible package. look, feel, sound, smell and behave, in
W
And that’s precisely what great brand an utterly consistent way.
design needs to deliver today: an utterly
ords to live by from distinctive package in the broadest Know Who You Are
Dolly Parton. Proudly possible sense. Gone are the days when The starting point has to be a distinct
larger than life, her some pretty packaging and occasional and relevant brand purpose that runs
over-the-top style is print ads cut the mustard. like silver thread through everything
matched only by her Unfortunately, looking at the typical else. Dolly knows exactly what she’s
commitment to career and philanthropy crowded drugstore beauty shelf in about; her beauty line would be glitzy,
(her children’s literacy project recently 2019, we find a sea of black, white and out there and effective—certainly not
sent out its 100 millionth free book). pink, with a dash of silver and gold. monochrome, aloof or overly green.
But what does this have to do with the Even the most tactile of velvet-touch Examining and reexamining brand
beauty industry? lipstick bullets with a satisfyingly heavy statements is a must. For example,
It’s about standing out from the click is virtually indistinguishable Glossier’s “skin first, makeup second”
crowd. There are plenty of talented among hundreds of thumbnail images. is a clear statement of intent. Even the
singer-songwriters, plenty of larger- In order to be truly distinctive, new high-impact Glossier Play reflects
than-life blondes, plenty of humorous, beauty brand design has to stand out this DNA as a “brand of dialed-up
wise women, plenty of philanthropists. in every single channel. That means beauty extras.” By contrast, many legacy
Develop a Voice
It’s important to know what you want
to say and how you say it. A distinctive
tone brings a brand to life. A fantastic
example is Pat McGrath Labs. The
brand founder has been nicknamed
“mother” by the supermodels she
works with due to her vast knowledge
and warm nature. Therefore, when
consumers subscribe to the brand’s In men’s wellness, Hims goes against every rule of men’s branding with curved lettering and
newsletter there’s no bland “thank you color schemes miles away from the harsh gray and black of its category.
for subscribing.” Instead, shoppers get:
“You signed up. Mother’s wrecked. Pat
sends her love and your discount code.” curved lettering miles away from the rubbish, but true partnerships and
The advent of voice search and harsh gray and black of its category. format and structure innovations can
digital assistants means this needs to Twenty years ago, bespoke packs reinvigorate and maintain consumer
be taken to the next level, with serious were standard, but with the global excitement.
thought required regarding sonic recession and increased competition
identity. We know that listening to on the market, investment in unique Strength in Simplicity
something really gets under the skin, structures has been squeezed. But The retail approach of brand
which is how consumer decisions are the simple fact of the matter is that blocking—taking more and more
made. Therefore, it’s critical to consider standout structure has never been room up on the shelf—has created
what a brand should sound like. Is it a more important—Fenty’s hexagonal sprawling product ranges. Every new
he/she/zie? Does it sound different in shape and The One by Frederic Fekkai hero ingredient, every new format,
different places? What music reflects spring to mind. Distinctive formats can every possible price level is often
its character? have a similar impact. For instance, bolted on without much thought given
Trinny London’s informal, yet high-end to whether it’s relevant to the brand.
Standout Design makeup stacks pop against traditional Today, it’s far better to clean house,
Finding a distinct color palette is luxury brands’ compacts and bullets. have simpler shelves with fewer SKUs
essential, and brands that deliberately Unique designs can also unleash and interactive, informative point-of-
push against category codes have huge a sustainability story. For example, sale designs that help the consumer
success in catching the eye. Glossier’s Myro’s refillable, beveled deodorant navigate to what they actually need.
pale pink was almost shocking when it pack looks fantastic and uses 50% less Challenger brands win through their
originally launched, and has since been plastic than conventional deodorant. offer’s simplicity. Even at a $1-billion-
joined by a slew of copycats. Similarly, Understandably, we often hear plus valuation, Glossier has just 14
Asarai’s bright block yellow jumps off brands can’t afford to change their products in skin care, compared to
any page, screen or shelf. In men’s packaging, but something that can be 34 and 35 for Burt’s Bees and Aveeno,
wellness, Hims goes against every rule done is to pilot and experiment with respectively.
of men’s branding with pale pink and limited editions to see what’s possible—
whether that’s collaborations, revisiting World-building Experiences
heritage packaging or exploring new The most magical quality of new
sustainable packs. Having personally indie brands is their ability to create
queued up at Harrods for a limited immersive worlds. Goop and Glossier
edition of the classic British condiment don’t just have a look and feel, they also
HP Sauce designed by Paul Smith, I have a lifestyle, a fashion, a fragrance
can testify to the excitement factor in and even food attached to them. Pop-
something quirky and rare! ups and retail experiences are essential
Unique designs can unleash a sustainability story.
For example, Myro’s refillable, beveled deodorant Of course this must be carefully to this, but also multichannel content
pack looks fantastic and uses 50% less plastic than considered in order to avoid being creation and partnerships that reflect
conventional deodorant. hackneyed, irrelevant or just plain and amplify their brand. For example,
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36 Global Cosmetic Industry | May 2019 w
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ho’s catering This matches the conventional 80/20
to the casual marketing wisdom that the top 20% of
consumers of consumers make up 80% of category
beauty? spend. So all that beauty social media
It’s easy to chatter talking about the millions of
forget, with all beauty SKUs available? A lot of people
the noise about 10-step Korean skin are simply not joining in.
care routines and contouring, that the What Birchbox also discovered,
majority of women are fair-weather however, was when it focused on
beauty consumers. Beauty subscription attracting and engaging the casual
box Birchbox’s research found that beauty consumer with education and
around 75% of women are what special offers, these shoppers doubled
they call “beauty casuals,” with the their beauty product spend in less than
remaining “beauty junkies” typically a year, trading up to higher-priced
spending at least four times more on brands. These consumers can present a
products per yeara. truly lucrative prospect for brands.
Looking at the practicalities of all consumers’ Research carried by Ipsos for Sally
lives—the need to dip into beauty at different Hansen found that 54% of U.S. women Designing Brands for the
points in the day such last-minute meetings, surveyed wore makeup less than twice
before the school run or after the gym—it’s Casual Consumer
a week; 17% never wear it at allb.
clear that products need to be of minimal Even as a seasoned beauty junkie
fuss and of maximum effectiveness.
myself, the amount of available
a
“Birchbox CEO on the evolution of the product choice can be overwhelming,
disruptive beauty brand”; https://nrf.com/blog/
not to mention the fact that, as a busy
birchbox-ceo-evolution-disruptive-beauty-brand
working mother, there’s no time to be
b
“Sally Hansen Polling Study”; https://
www.ipsos.com/sites/default/files/ct/news/ pondering an hour-long routine in the
documents/2017-11/COTY-Sally-Hansen- morning—I need to look good, fast.
Topline-2017-11-20-v1.pdf So, for someone who’s never been into
1. Multifunctional Magic
They say there’s nothing new under In color cosmetics, in addition to a recognized styling product in its
the sun in beauty, and that’s certainly BB, CC and DD creams, which offer own right: volume, texture and even
true when it comes to multipurpose coverage, perfecting, UV-protecting and hold. Purelogy’s Colour Fanatic Multi-
beauty products. Dr. Bronner’s Pure- even anti-aging benefits, other products Tasking Hair Beautifier promises
Castile soaps claim eight cleaning are working harder too. Glamglow’s 21 benefits, including conditioning,
uses: “face, body, hair, food & pets, the GlowPowder Hyaluronic Acid-Infused instant detangling, heat protection and
dishes, laundry or mop.” But there’s a Glow Palette hydrates as it shades, breakage reduction.
new generation of products emerging bronzes, highlights and contours. Sally
that actively work to reduce the stages Hansen’s Color Therapy is an intensive 2. Fabulous Formats
and length of beauty routines, without nail treatment combined with nail
color and Giorgio Armani’s Eye & Whether it’s the dressing table,
compromising on efficacy. This is
Brow Maestro eye lines, shadows and bathroom or in someone’s purse or
about going beyond multipurpose:
sorts brows. gym bag, no casual
not simply cleansing or moisturizing
In skin care, queen of easy glamour, beauty consumer (or
or colorizing, but actively performing
Charlotte Tilbury’s Multi-Miracle Glow anyone on-the-go, for
multiple functions.
is a cleanser, mask and balm that can that matter) wants to
moisturize, cleanse and revitalize, as have a giant kit—not
well as give gloss to the body and face. just the literal number
Lixir’s Universal Emulsion is a day of bottles, but also
cream, night cream and priming serum applicators and tools.
with UV shield, and Farsáli’s Unicorn Mintel’s research
Essence is an antioxidant serum and cited previously
primer in one. found that about 30%
In hair, dry shampoos have been of female skin care
reinvented by reducing white residue,
catering to more hair colors and Fabulous formats: VO5 has
adding styling functionality. Hair launched the Style Edit Flyaway
Multifunctional magic: Glamglow’s GlowPowder Touch-up Wand, a hair serum
Hyaluronic Acid-Infused Glow Palette hydrates as it by Sam McKnight’s Lazy Girl Dry in a mascara-type bottle.
shades, bronzes, highlights and contours. Shampoo absorbs excess oil and is
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PROBLEM-SOLVING PACKAGING
Casual beauty consumers and beauty junkies alike are drawn to packaging
concepts that address challenges and maximize ease-of-use. What follows is
a roundup of recent innovations that simplify consumers’ lives.
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| BY LISA DOYLE
Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2019 Allured Business Media.
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Global Cosmetic Industry | May 2019
Suppliers are pushing the envelope with new design parameters and category-disrupting concepts.
Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2019 Allured Business Media.
46 Global Cosmetic Industry | May 2019 w
in less than 10 weeks (on the extreme regulatory and warehousing services, fragrance and skin care. The new
end of things), which has led Anomatic and Design Quest, which delivers offering will reportedly accelerate lead
to increase its stock packaging with turnkey packaging solutions. WWP times for replenishment orders.
decorator techniques in-house. will merge the organizations in one
Anomatic has also introduced location in the area as a new West A New California Beauty
stock anodized aluminum lip balm Coast base for WWP. (Turn to Page Innovation Hub
packaging solutions that can have a S5 of the digital edition packaging
Cosmetica, the Toronto-based beauty
range of customized effects applied supplement.)
contract manufacturer, is opening an
to both weighted and non-weighted
innovation hub in Woodland Hills,
variants. Effects include debossing, Customizable Tubes
California, in 2019. The company
screen printing, embossing, double Pack-Tubes presented its range of specializes in color cosmetics,
anodizing, hot foil stamping and tubes for personal care, cosmetics particularly slurries, for categories
gradient anodizing. and pharmaceutical applications. The such as lipsticks and mascaras, but
company has introduced low-count has also introduced capabilities that
Growing West Coast minimums for customized tubes in infuse skin-friendly ingredients such as
Operations order to service indie brands, as well squalanes and hyaluronic acid into new
WWP has expanded its offerings as customers working with small hybrid makeup concepts.
of cosmetic packaging components, batch projects. The endeavor is being led by Shannaz
plastic tubes and full-service turnkey Schopfer, founding general manager of
solutions with the acquisitions of Turnkey for Fragrance and Cosmetica Innovations USA.
Los Angeles-based Cosmetic Design Skin Care At Cosmetica’s LA Hub, Schopfer and
Group (CDG), which offers turnkey Silgan Dispensing has introduced her team will conceptualize exclusive
design, packaging, assembly, displays, XpresService, a turnkey service for products, which will then be prototyped
and tested on-site. The office will also
offer sales and color-matching.
“The West Coast hub brings
Cosmetica services closer to clients,”
said Schopfer. “We are a concierge
service. We offer bespoke resources to
each of our partners [and] we intend
to combine the art and business of
beauty in the LA Hub.”
The new site will focus on clients
such as indie brands and launches
from makeup artists and will feature a
sales office and chemist staff to foster
innovation in Southern California. This
Queenspack now offers a refillable roller design, as well as a range of bottles with water-transfer wood effects. will enable Cosmetica to host clients
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3D Design Innovation
Under the banner of its new motto—Tomorrow’s Beauty.
Today.—Schwan presented a range of innovations at
Cosmoprof Bologna that intersected technology, speed-
to-market, sustainability and customized solutions. 3D
printing is at the center of this revolution, offering a
new decorative process for customization for brands of
all sizes that provides fast prototyping, unlimited shape
and geometry specifications, short time-to-market, and
less waste production throughout the process. (Read the
Packaging Supplement on Page S2 of your digital edition
for more eco-friendly designs from Schwan.)
Anisa recently unveiled a range of cruelty-free brush designs, including on-trend decorative concepts.
Air-tight Design
Pictured are the Neo Chic (upper left) and Lava Lacquer (lower left) handle designs, and the QD Fiber Seacliff Beauty’s recent innovations
(top center), Liquid Touch (top right) and XL Face Brush (bottom right) collections. include the BeautiLock range of
During Luxe Pack/MakeUp in LA, Verescence presented a range of designs featuring luxury
and sustainable elements.
During Luxe Pack/MakeUp in LA, Samhwa presented an airtight stick
that mimicked the format of traditional stick deodorants, but which
can be used for sun and skin care applications.
Seacliff Beauty’s range of airtight packaging allows for less than 1% product weight loss in an
array of beauty products; pictured is the full collection and detail of the range’s jar design.
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www.gcimagazine.com Skin/Sun/Anti-aging 55
Amazon has introduced a range of 12 skin care products Thiotaurine (INCI: Thiotaurine), from Shanghai Huiwen Biotech
under its Belei brand, including Micellar Face Wipes, Hydrating Corp., creates a protective umbrella for skin microecology to reduce
Hyaluronic Acid Serum and Triple-Peptide Eye Cream. The “polluaging,” or effects of aging due to pollution. The ingredient can
products are cruelty-free and contain no parabens, phthalates, repair cell damage; inhibit haze-induced oxidation of skin; resist
sulfates or fragrance. The bottles are composed of PCR resin; inflammation; and enhance the skin’s barrier function.
the cartons are fully recyclable.
At-home hair color range Josh Wood Colour has Helen of Troy Limited is exploring divestment of its
secured funding from Index Ventures. Partner Danny personal care business, a subset of its beauty segment.
Rimer will join the board of Josh Would Colour. Other Brands under Helen of Troy’s personal care umbrella
participants in the $6.5 million round included JamJar include Pert and Sure. Divesting would allow the
Investments and Venrex. company to focus its resources on leadership brands.
Blush Foundation
Claim: Paraben-free Claim: Paraben-free
Benefit: Hydrating Benefit: Long-wearing
Key ingredient: BHA Key ingredients: Vitamins
Bronzer Concealer
Claim: Cruelty-free Claim: Paraben-free
Benefit: Waterproof Benefit: Concealing
Key ingredient: Murumuru butter Key ingredient: Vitamins
Eyeshadow Lipstick
Claim: Cruelty-free Claim: Cruelty-free
Benefit: Long-wearing Benefit: Long-wearing
Key ingredient: Squalane Key ingredients: Peptides
Eyebrow Lip Liner
Claim: Clean Claim: Paraben-free
The debut of Fifth City, the exclusive beauty Benefit: Waterproof Benefit: Long-wearing
collection from Saks Off 5th, is part of a larger strategy
Key ingredient: Vitamins Key ingredient: Vitamins
to expand the discount retailer’s exclusive merchandise
assortment. Fifth City’s SKUs—ranging in price from
$4.99 to $60—include 35 products for face, lip and
eye makeup, brushes and accessories.
www.gcimagazine.com Makeup 59
www.gcimagazine.com Bath/Body/Grooming/Fragrance 61
PRIVATE LABEL
To reserve space
FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA in this section, contact
facebook.com/gcimagazine Global Cosmetic Industry
Kim Jednachowski
kjednachowski@allured.com
@globalcosmeticindustry @GCI_Magazine 1-630-344-6054
62 Products and Services Showcase Global Cosmetic Industry | May 2019
THIS PACKAGE IS A
BEAUTIFUL EXAMPLE
OF COMBINING
• 8-Color offset printing
• Multi-color silk screen
• Hot stamp foil application
• Pressure sensitive labeling
• Sustainable package options
• Proudly made in the USA!
Brands are taking sustainable packaging concepts to a new level: HiBar leverages secondary packaging but uses no single-use plastic
packaging for its range of solid hair care.
W
hile sustainable “Consumers today are paying a supply chain for a true zero-waste
packaging lot more attention to their impact mentality.”
has been on on the planet, and climate change
the beauty calls are more drastic than ever What the Brands Are Saying
beforea,” said Andrew McDougall,
industry’s Hèrmes, which has announced
associate director, Mintel, beauty
radar for years, China’s refusal, the forthcoming launch of skin
and personal care, during the
in 2018, to any longer accept care and cosmetic products by
release of the firm’s 2019 beauty
certain types of “foreign 2020, will be featuring plastic-free
trend report. “A bigger-picture
packaging to limit waste.
garbage,” including several focus is needed throughout the
Meanwhile, Guhl, a Kao-owned
types of plastic and paper, has beauty and personal care industry
hair care brand available in
put all industries on notice: Germany, Austria, Switzerland
sustainability is not only a trend and the Netherlands, has launched
a
www.mintel.com/press-centre/beauty-
or a consumer-engagement and-personal-care/mintel-announces- new sustainable packaging.
strategy; it’s a key survival sub-zero-waste-as-2019s-global-beauty- Guhl’s shampoo bottles now
mechanism. and-personal-care-trend reportedly consist of 50% recycled
Unique Distinctions Inc. has launched its Eco Series, comprising Schwan Cosmetics is leveraging 3D printing to reduce waste by
eco-friendly tubes for beauty and personal care packaging that allowing for smaller production runs.
leverages recycled material and reduces overall plastic usage.
An assortment of sustainable cosmetic packaging from WWP. Cosmopak’s concepts were designed for direct-to-consumer brands
and influencer collaborations directed at Gen Z consumers, featuring
sustainable and wellness-oriented designs and formulations.
Refillable Luxury
For its work with YSL, Albéa
provided the refillable packaging
for the Or Rouge skin care range.
The removable and replaceable
refill is housed inside the case of
the Or Rouge La Crème Riche
(50 ml) and Red Gold La Crème
Fine (50 ml). The textured cap
is brushed with gold finish and
showcases the YSL logo embossed
at the top. The pack received a 2019
In partnership with Luigi Bormioli, Coverpla has created a new PCD Paris Award in the Skin Care
collection of eco-designed glass packaging. Premium-Refillable category. n