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Family owned for over 35 years

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CONTENTS MAY 2019 | VOLUME 187, NUMBER 5

18 FEATURES
8 Product Roundup: Ingredient & Packaging
Innovations
New launches for beauty brands.

10 “Great Brands Are About the ‘Why’”


CEW honors female brand founders who have disrupted
the industry.

12 Glossier: “An Entirely New Kind of Beauty


Company”
What “Phase 2” looks like for the cult beauty brand.

18 4 Top Skin Care Drivers


Part 3 of a 3-part series: the categories, technologies and
programs driving the market.

32 BY DENISE HERICH

18 [podcast] Welcome to the CBD Greenrush


A closer look at consumer trends,
product innovation, regulatory chal-
lenges and market opportunities in
this fast-changing “greenrush.”
Visit gcimagazine.com/DE for your
Digital Edition.

24 Ungendered Beauty
To respect consumers, designers must find new ways to

24 express scent, color design and motion.


BY JOHN JIMÉNEZ AND MAURICIO GUZMÁN ALONSO

28 Gender-fluid Brand Design


From color to messaging, brands can free themselves from the
burden of gender and open up their markets in new, exciting ways.
BY MATT BURKE

32 Designing Distinctiveness
How beauty brands can stand out in a sea of sameness.
BY NICK VAUS

32 [podcast] Defining ‘Clean Beauty’


To gain perspective on how
consumers define clean beauty,
and why, we asked Richard Pietz,
director of product development and
technical sales for Kora Organics.

36 Visit gcimagazine.com/DE for your Digital Edition.

2  Contents   Global Cosmetic Industry | May 2019

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CONTENTS
36 3 Ways to Capture the Casual Beauty EDITORIAL
Consumer Editor in Chief Jeb Gleason-Allured | 1-630-344-6069/jallured@allured.com
Assistant Editor Audrey Latimer | 1-630-344-6067/alatimer@allured.com
Infrequent beauty shoppers represent a massive market News Editor Eden Stuart | 1-630-344-6053/estuart@allured.com
opportunity.
BY SARA JONES ADVERTISING SALES
Business Development Manager Kim Jednachowski | 1-630-344-6054/kjednachowski@allured.com
42 High-touch Packaging Business Development Manager Paige Crist | 1-630-344-6060/pcrist@allured.com
Fragrance
What makes consumers want to reach out and grab Advertising Coordinator Kasia Smialkowski | 1-630-344-6025/ksmialkowski@allured.com
your brand?
BY LISA DOYLE AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT
Marketing Specialist Bianca Esposito

46 Reimagining Packaging Design for Beauty Customer Service 1-847-559-7557/customerservice@gcimagazine.com

How new technologies, sustainability, speed-to-market, DESIGN


unique designs and customization are reshaping the look Design Manager Kim Fry
and feel of beauty brands. Senior Graphic Designer Hon Bannapradist
Production Manager Bryan Crowe

S1 Special Supplement— CORPORATE


Simply Sustainable. Partner & CEO George Fox
Partner & President Janet Ludwig
Visit gcimagazine.com/DE for your CFO Rich Winters
Digital Edition. Director of Events Maria Prior
Digital Products Director Rose Southard
Executive Assistant Maria Romero

DEPARTMENTS
OTHER ALLURED PRODUCTS
6 Spark: The Marie Kondo-ing of Beauty Beauty Accelerate
Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine
BY JEB GLEASON-ALLURED Allured Business Media
Cosmetics & Toiletries Bench Reference
1-630-653-2155 • fax 1-630-653-2192
Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine: Portuguese edition
10 Markets & Trends 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A
Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403 USA
Perfumer & Flavorist magazine
Flavorcon
www.Allured.com
10 [podcast] CEW Honors the Women World Perfumery Congress
Skin Inc. magazine
Disrupting Beauty Face & Body Midwest spa expo and conference
Face & Body Northern California spa expo and conference
Amy Errett, founder and CEO of Face & Body Southeast spa expo and conference
Madison Reed, discusses the
company’s innovative rise and
the skills required of a successful founder. For Subscriptions: Subscribe online: www.gcimagazine.com/subscribe
For both the US and internationally, telephone: 1-847-559-7557
Visit gcimagazine.com/DE for your Digital Edition. (8 AM–4:30 PM Central, Mon-Fri) | Fax: 1-847-291-4816
E-mail: customerservice@gcimagazine.com

54 Skin/Sun/Anti-aging Address: Global Cosmetic Industry, PO Box 3009, Northbrook, IL 60065-3009

Print subscriptions: Available free to qualified individuals located in the United States.
All other countries may subscribe to the digital edition.

58 Hair Periodicals Postage paid at Carol Stream, Illinois, and additional mailing offices.

Change of address: In ordering a change of address, give both the old and new addresses. Allow two months for change

59 Makeup
to become effective. The publisher will attempt to handle unsolicited articles with care, but the magazine assumes no
responsibility for them. Materials will be returned only if accompanied by a self-addressed envelope with return postage.
Address inquiries regarding editorial policy and writer guidelines to the editor. The acceptance of advertising does not

60 Bath/Body/Grooming/Fragrance
necessarily carry the endorsement of the publisher.

Global Cosmetic Industry (ISSN 1523-9470) is published eleven times per year as Jan., Feb., March, April, May, June,
July/Aug., Sept., Oct., Nov. and Dec. issues by Allured Business Media.
Address: Global Cosmetic Industry, 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A, Carol Stream IL 60188-2403.
www.GCImagazine.com

RESOURCES All correspondence regarding business, editorial, advertising and production should be sent to Global Cosmetic Industry,
336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A, Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403. Periodicals postage paid at Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403
and additional mailing offices.

62 Products & Services Showcase POSTMASTER: Please send address changes to Global Cosmetic Industry, PO Box 3009, Northbrook, IL 60065-3009.

Allured Business Media makes all attempts to publish accurate information; however, this publication may contain

64 Advertiser Index technical inaccuracies or typographical errors. The reader assumes all risks concerning the suitability and accuracy of
the information within this publication. Allured Business Media assumes no responsibility for and disclaims all liability
for any such inaccuracies, errors or omissions in this publication and in other documentation referred to within or
affiliated with this publication.

facebook.com/gcimagazine Global Cosmetic Industry Copyright 2019: Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited.

Global Cosmetic Industry and GCI are registered trademarks of Allured Publishing Corporation.
@globalcosmeticindustry @GCI_Magazine

4  Contents   Global Cosmetic Industry | May 2019

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SPARK | BY JEB GLEASON-ALLURED

The Marie Kondo-ing of Beauty

JEB GLEASON-ALLURED
Editor in Chief
jallured@allured.com
@GCI_Magazine

GLOBAL COSMETIC INDUSTRY MAGAZINE

I
EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD n 2019, less is more.
Nearly 10% of Americans rent a self-storage space, translating to 1.7 billion square
ALISA MARIE BEYER feet of storage, or 5.4 square feet per persona. Meanwhile, U.S. municipalities are
Lemontree Partners scrambling to respond to China’s recent refusal to accept “foreign garbage.” This
country, like many other developed nations, has a stuff problem.
MOLLY BROOKS It’s no surprise that minimalism first came of age in the 1960s, a direct reaction to
Sephora Collection, North America the unprecedented consumer culture that had reshaped the post-World War II world.
HEATHER CONNELLY Today, a new minimalist wave is spreading, reflecting anxiety over everything from
CosBar excessive materialism to sustainability to industrial production to generalized stress
MARIE ALICE DIBON related to the speed and more-ness of contemporary life. Marie Kondo has emerged
Alice Communications, Inc. as a leading light in the movement, though the bestselling author’s philosophy notably
focuses on “sparking joy” more than it does the mere elimination of stuffb.
JESSICA ESTRADA
Beauty has been a leading indicator of this trend in recent years, featuring austere
Hue For Every Man
packaging and design that allows for lots of white space; low-energy processing and
BRIDGETTE HOWARD manufacturing; spiritual- and wellness-oriented brand concepts; simplified ingredient
Parlor West Ventures labels, with each material’s purpose overtly justified in marketing; zero-packaging
product design; scaled-back SKUs that streamline and clarify product selections; and
MICHAEL MALINSKY multifunctional ingredients and products that allow consumers to do more with less.
WUNDER2 To illustrate the market opportunity, the “WGSN: Big Ideas 2021-Beauty” report
FADI MOURAD encourages brands to “streamline products [and] offer better formulations featuring
higher active ingredients and multiple benefits,” and notes that water scarcity will
ADA POLLA increasingly impact product developmentc.
Alchimie Forever, While the beauty industry inevitably necessitates consumers purchasing physical
The Polla Beauty Group goods, innovative suppliers and formulators, product developers and designers, and
brand leaders are finding ever-more ways to deliver newness that requires fewer
ART RICH, Ph.D.
resources and offers shoppers an opportunity for a guilt- and stress-free purchase.
A. Rich Development
See you next month.
RICK RUFFOLO
R4 Innovations
CRISTINA SAMUELS
Mode Cosmetics a
www.sparefoot.com/self-storage/news/1432-self-storage-industry-statistics/
LAURA SETZFAND
b
It may be comforting to know that Kondo’s own beauty regimen for her hit Netflix series is anything but
minimal, featuring products from Tatcha, Herbivore, Laura Merciar, Clarins, Tom Ford and Smashbox;
Epiphany “Marie Kondo Has an Extremely Organized Skin-Care Routine,” www.thecut.com/2019/01/marie-kondos-
beauty-and-skin-care-routine.html
www.wgsn.com
c

facebook.com/gcimagazine Global Cosmetic Industry @globalcosmeticindustry @GCI_Magazine

6  Spark   Global Cosmetic Industry | May 2019

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PRODUCT ROUNDUP [Products, Equipment & Services]
Ingredient & Packaging Innovations

Travel-sized Packaging
McKernan Packaging Clearing House Customized Packaging
www.mckernan.com Queens Packaging Co., Ltd
McKernan offers brands PET and HDPE bottles, including sizes www.queenspack.com
under 3.4 ounces, in a variety of colors and styles. McKernan also Queens Packaging’s design team works with brands to offer
stocks treatment pumps, CT closures, fine mist sprayers, lotion tailor-made customizations to meet specific needs and re-
pumps and dispensing caps to complement travel-sized packaging. quirements. The company aims to provide a one-stop service
from design, tooling and production.

Radii Rectangular Midi Palette Nephoria


HCP Packaging BASF Care Creations
www.hcpackaging.com www.carecreations.basf.com
Radii Rectangular Midi Palette from HCP Packaging is a versatile Extracted from rambutan leaves, Nephoria was created to
stock pack, displayed with designs in blue hues. The cover offers act as a natural alternative to retinol. The ingredient supports
the opportunity for customization with decorative top-plates, natural collagen synthesis and elastic fiber network, and
including textile, dome or HCP’s patented ‘Glitter Storm’ decora- assists with lowering a master negative regulator of collagen
tion. Available with a six-well insert, the palette is suitable for eye, homeostasis, thus contributing to increased skin elasticity and
lip, brow and multi-products. reduced wrinkle appearance.

8  Product Roundup   Global Cosmetic Industry | May 2019 w

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SpectraRinse
Flexible Metallization and Enahnced Deco Effects Spectra Colors Corporation
Anomatic Corporation www.spectracolors.com
www.anomatic.com SpectraRinse from Spectra Colors Corporation are highly
Anomatic’s flexible metallization for hinge closures can reportedly concentrated polymeric liquid dyes. The water-based dyes are
withstand more than 150 flips without delaminating or degrading non-staining, non-toxic and environmentally friendly. Available
the metallic finish along the hinge. Additionally, Anomatic has in eight shades, the dyes rinse off skin and most fabrics with
introduced new glitter and confetti effects to their finishes. no soap or detergent necessary.

East Hill Industries, LLC


Bulgari Man Wood
Liquid Foundation Bottle
Verescence
www.packagingcosmetics.com
www.verescence.com
East Hill Industries’ Liquid Foundation Bottle features a pump system
that can dose high-viscosity bulk such as liquid foundation. The Bulgari has chosen Verre Infini Neo by Verescence for
bottle is suitable for products in which the viscosity changes over the new Bulgari Man Wood Essence. Verre Infini Neo is
time, including thick formulas. The in-built technology prevents the the first premium and completely clear recycled glass
formula from coming into contact with metal components, thus composed from a total of 90% recycled materials,
preventing any oxidation or alteration. according to Verescence.

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MARKETS & TRENDS
“Great Brands Are About the ‘Why’”

From left: Amy Errett, CEO and founder, Madison Reed; Gregg Renfrew, founder and CEO, Beautycounter; Nancy Twine, founder and CEO,
Briogeo Hair Care; Vicky Tsai, founder, Tatcha; and Lauren Gores and Marianna Hewitt, co-founders, Summer Fridays.

C
EW recently gathered to The awards were followed by a valuation, which she said should
honor “the women who have panel discussion led by Shiseido’s Jill hearten every woman in the industry.
disrupted beauty,” as CEW Scalamandre. Errett added that women have to
president Carlotta Jacobson Renfrew, who came to beauty “have huge outcomes” in order to be
put it. These brand founders have with financial expertise, noted that taken seriously by male investors. She
left comfortable day jobs, broken the hardest part of building her noted that it was therefore important
Instagram, planned out businesses from business had been getting contract for women leaders to fund other
dining room tables, launched direct- manufacturing to come on board female founders to generate greater
to-consumer product ranges, formed with clean beauty. She joked that opportunity.
new categories like clean beauty, and some of these manufacturers had Hewitt concurred, noting that the
all have endeavoured to empower other nicknamed her company “Brutalc­ path for Summer Fridays was blazed
women. The honorees included: ounter” for its tough stances on by the female-led brands that came
• Amy Errett CEO and founder, ingredients. before it, making it easier to be “taken
Madison Reed She added that competition in seriously.”
• Lauren Gores Ireland, co-founder, the clean beauty space is a positive, Twine, whose loss of her mother
Summer Fridays creating allies in the fight to update helped propel her purpose-driven
• Marianna Hewitt, co-founder, cosmetics regulations in the United brand, said it was difficult to predict
Summer Fridays States, a core focus of Beautyco­unter. what the future would hold for her
• Gregg Renfrew, founder and CEO, Errett, who has a VC background, brand but noted that Briogeo will
Beautycounter noted that male investors didn’t expand into the wellness space soon.
• Vicky Tsai, founder, Tatcha initially understand size of the at- Errett concluded the panel
• Nancy Twine, founder and CEO, home hair coloring market. She discussion by noting that “great brands
Briogeo Hair Care also praised Glossier’s 1-billion-plus are about the why.” n

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Top Trends from the CEW Product Demo Night

C
EW’s 2019 Product
Demonstration Night in New
York City revealed top trends
in beauty.
“With the addition of new categories
and the many new indie brands
coming on the scene, we continue
to be amazed by the innovations
seen across categories,” said CEW
president Carlotta Jacobson. “When
we started the Beauty Awards 25
years ago, products were very focused
on skincare, makeup and hair, but
new trends and innovative products
have continued to expand the beauty
industry into what we see now.”
Here are some of the hottest trends
of the night.

Vegging out
Superfood beauty was on full display,
including Loli, a brand which utilizes
Sustainability is the High and mighty
organic, wild-harvested ingredients new normal The buzziest bud in beauty, despite
Brands such as bar shampoo its lack of THC, was CBD, the star of
that are raw, fair trade and upcycled
purveyor Ethique boasted the Albea’s High Hopes, a line of cannabis-
from food; Yensa, which fuses eight
hashtag #giveupth­ebottle, while infused formulations across applicat­ions,
superfoods in each of its products,
Seed Phytonut­rients debuted what and CBD for Life, which debuted bath
including its Essential Glow Tone
it claims to be the first shower-safe bombs. Milk Makeup’s Kush mascara
Up Primer; Youth to the People; and
paper bottle, crafted entirely of post- also made an appearance at the show.
Sahara Rose. Elemis displayed its
Superfood Nutrient-Dense Pre-Biotic consumer products and utilizing 60%
skin care range, set to expand in 2019. less plastic than a traditional bottle. Put charcoal on your list
Charcoal’s cleansing properties were
found in facial products such as acne
treatments from First Aid Beauty and
Origins, Freeman Beauty’s charcoal
mask, and Copper + Crane’s detoxifying
body polish. Herbal Essences introduced
a new charcoal shampoo, harnessing
those clarifying powers for the scalp.

All for you


Personal­ization is at an all time
high, showcased by brands including
custom hair care company Prose, which
showcased its new hair oil; Halo, an app
which allows users to create their own
nail polish color from a picture they’ve
uploaded; and Neutrogena’s Skin360
app, helping users craft personalized
skin care routines. n

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MARKETS & TRENDS

Glossier: “An Entirely New Kind of Beauty Company”

A
t five years old, Glossier Inc. was also one of the direct-to-consumer brand and relationship with
just raised $100 million in brands with the largest year-over- its customers, and its business
Series D funding to “build year growth in 2018, expanding at a fundamentals are equally impressive,”
the future beauty company whopping 69%. said Michael Abramson, partner at
in collaboration with its customers.” “We are building an entirely new Sequoia. “This is one of the most
Sequoia Capital reportedly led the kind of beauty company: one that efficient direct-to-consumer businesses
round, in addition to contributions owns the distribution channel and we’ve encountered, and with this new
from Tiger Global Management, Spark makes customers our stakehol­ders,” capital, we believe Glossier is well
Capital, Forerunner Ventures, Thrive said Emily Weiss, founder and CEO positioned to define the next era of the
Capital, IVP and Index Ventures. of Glossier. “Thanks to this direct beauty industry.”
Glossier, which just expanded relationship with our customers, we “Beauty consumers increasingly
its offerings with the Glossier Play have access to endless inspiration for want to interact with brands and
collection, also announced that new products, experiences, and ways purchase products online: by 2024,
Vanessa Wittman has been named as of building an enduring business—all online beauty sales are expected to
the company’s CFO. Wittman has held while staying true to our core belief reach $120 billion globally,” said
CFO roles at Oath, Dropbox, Motorola that beauty should be a celebration of Megan Quinn, general partner at Spark
Mobility, and Marsh & McLennan. individuality and personal choice.” Capital. “The industry’s conglomerates
The company’s 2018 sales revenue The move is part of Weiss’ declared are ill-equipped to retrofit their
passed $100 million; it also added 1 “phase 2” of Glossier, which will feature businesses to this new reality. With
million new customers. a brand-owned social commerce its digital-first DNA and enthusiasm
Recent NPD data showed that platform that will harness control of for meeting consumers where they
Glossier has almost equal sales growth social media on its own terms. are, we believe Glossier is the defining
driven by millennials and Gen Z. It “Glossier has built an exceptional company of this new channel.” n

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MARKETS & TRENDS

Appealing to the ‘Complex’ Teenage Beauty Consumer


| BY JEB GLEASON-ALLURED, Editor in Chief

M
illennials have been Sam Farmer (SF): It isn’t who young adults are or how they
the apple of the beauty appropriate for all brands to address as should behave is old fashioned. Instead,
industry’s eye for some there is the potential to cause confusion brands are encouraged to target efficacy
time; however, the teenage and, as such, it is important to establish instead of insecurities and place the
consumers of Generation Z are proving the right intentions and reasons before focus on the product and not the
to be the new industry darlings. And attempting to target teenage consumers. intended gender of the consumer.
keeping these consumers satisfied may The category is complicated, nuanced Brands shouldn’t overthink it. If a
be more challenging than appeasing and requires brands to understand the brand is truly engaged with a particular
those in the generation before them. issues and opinions of young adults. message, this will come across in their
Global Cosmetic Industry consulted Teenagers today have a relaxed and communic­ation. Bringing out a range
Sam Farmer, of Samuel Farmer accepting attitude toward gender of products in an attempt to be part of
& Co. Ltd., about teen consumers’ and how others choose to define a trend instead of leading the market
gender attitudes, the pitfalls of getting themselves. Gay marriage, gender with a strong message risks a real
marketing wrong and how brands can fluidity and equal rights are now part struggle for attention.
build trust through their products. of their everyday lives. Lastly, absorb everything the
Personal care products are relied consumer is doing. The teenage
Global Cosmetic Industry: How can upon to perform a basic but essential category is a complex, fickle and ever-
personal care brands address teens’ task and are accepted into teenagers’ changing sector. Listen, think and act
gender attitudes? private living spaces. Trying to define accordingly.

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Global Cosmetic Industry: What are allowing everyone to have a say on what concept of the language and images
the pitfalls of getting it wrong? a brand is doing. Changing direction used. To do this, brands must make
on a sixpence to the exact opposite of a decision and take the lead, not
SF: Having observed the recent what a brand’s communication has simply follow someone else’s path.
“mixed” reaction to the Gillette advert been focussed on for decades is risible. They must walk the walk, not just talk
and the recent change in direction Consumers are skeptical and suspicious the talk. From brand ambassadors
for Lynx (and its “Men in Progress” of such strategies, and brands risk their to sponsorship, the actions a brand
campaign), the pitfalls of getting it audience becoming disenchanted if undertakes as part of its strategy
wrong can be damaging and long- their communic­ations are not grounded should reflect its overall message, ethos
lasting. The messages and images in an authentic value or belief. and identity.
a company uses should originate To truly build trust through
from the brand’s authentic core Global Cosmetic Industry: What marketing and thoughtful product
values or they risk being viewed with are some of the ways trust can be built design, brands need to identify
some cynicism. In many cases, the through marketing and thoughtful their own audience. In a saturated,
stereotypes now being challenged are product design? competitive and mercurial business,
exactly those created by some of these being honest and straight­forward is
brands in the first place. SF: Brands should focus on changing rare and works to build trust through
Consumers are also now more vocal the way young adults interact with consistent and clear communic­ation,
in their opinions, with social media the industry by challenging the whole which is crucial for success. n

How Beauty Brands Are Finding Success on Pinterest


| BY AUDREY LATIMER, Assistant Editor

W
hether they’re looking for
a wedding makeup look,
an anti-aging skin care
routine or a new hair color
shade, consumers constantly flock to
Pinterest in search of the latest beauty
and personal care trends.

Global Cosmetic Industry spoke


with Vikram Bhaskaran, global head
of vertical strategy at Pinterest, about
the ways Pinterest impacts the path
to purchase and the beauty brands
currently finding success on the social
network.

Global Cosmetic Industry:


According to the November 2018 Gfk
Path to Purchase Studya, 86% of beauty
and personal care Pinners made a
purchase based on seeing beauty and
personal care content from brands

a
GfK, US, Pinterest Path to Purchase Study
among Weekly Pinners who use Pinterest in the
Category, Nov 2018

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MARKETS & TRENDS

on Pinterest. What does this mean most out of their content on Pinterest channels. Promoted Video Pins earned
for brands? How can they better take is by leveraging our Audience Insights a reach of over 6 million people. The
advantage of Pinterest and its influence tool. Audience Insights helps brands team also ran a Millward Brown Brand
over consumers? understand what their existing and Lift Insights study and learned that ad
potential customers are interested in recall saw a lift of over 23%.b
Vikram Bhaskaran (VB): Pinterest based on their behavior on Pinterest. Another brand is City Beauty.
is a visual discovery engine. People With this information, brands can Leading up to the 2018 holiday season,
come to Pinterest with an open then sharpen their targeting, test and the luxury functional beauty brand
mindset, and they’re actively looking optimize campaigns, and duplicate wanted to increase online sales for
for inspiration on what to do or buy the top-performing campaigns and their top-selling product, City Lips
next. What’s more is that Pinterest ad groups. plumping lip gloss. They turned to
has the largest, most engaged digital Pinterest and they took a test-and-learn
beauty audience with over 52 million Global Cosmetic Industry: Can you approach to polish their creative and
monthly Pinners actively engaging provide any information on beauty hone their targeting strategy. They
with beauty content on Pinterest. brands currently working with Pinterest tested multiple Pin variations before
This presents a massive opportunity that have experienced success? identifying a clear winner. City Beauty
for beauty and personal care brands also tested a number of targeting
to connect with consumers and drive VB: Perfume and cosmetic company strategies, experimenting with
them to purchase. Guerlain was launching a new different interest groups, keywords and
The key is creating compelling fragrance, La Petite Robe Noire Black demographics.
content. Promoted videos are a great Perfecto and wanted to support the City Beauty’s campaign maintained
way to deliver content that both advertising campaign with unique an impressive 3x return on ad spend
inspires and engages consumers. Last digital creative with the goal of from November 2018 through the
year, we also introduced support for reaching women in search of a new holiday season. They earned a 5%
videos at maximum width, which perfume. Leveraging Promoted Pins higher click-through rates on Pinterest
are ~4x bigger, spanning across and Promoted Video Pins, Guerlain than on other digital platforms. This
Pinterest’s two-column grid, and developed iconic content that put the campaign also beat City Beauty’s own
this format has proven to be very new fragrance and its logo front-and- benchmark on Pinterest, earning
successful. Advertisers have seen center. them a 5x lower CPM than they’d seen
efficient costs-per-view and lifts in The Promoted Pins generated more before.cn
brand awareness methods. than 50 million impressions. They
Another great way for beauty and also saw a lower cost per impression b
Millward Brown Brand Lift Insights study, 2018
personal care brands to make the (CPM) as compared to other digital c
City Beauty data, 2018

16  Markets & Trends   Global Cosmetic Industry | May 2019

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Sustainable Solutions
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4 Top Skin Care Drivers
Part 3 of a 3-part series: the categories, technologies and
programs driving the market.

73% of shoppers who use natural and organic skin


care do so because the products purport to contain
no harmful ingredients, while 72% of consumers say
that natural/organic is “better for my skin’s health.”

| BY DENISE HERICH, The Benchmarking Company

facebook.com/gcimagazine Global Cosmetic Industry @globalcosmeticindustry @GCI_Magazine

18 Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2019 Allured Business Media. Global Cosmetic Industry | May 2019 w

GCI1905_Herich_fcx.indd 18 4/18/19 3:21 PM


S
kin care is booming. T-2 lists shoppers’ top reasons for Target (65%), Walmart (44%),
According to NPD data, using mass skin care. Walgreens/CVS (39%), Whole Foods
2018 U.S. prestige sales (31%) and Trader Joe’s (28%).
rose 13%—8% in physical Negative past experiences with
2. Generic/Private-label generic brands (34%) is the leading
retail and 33% onlinea.
Department store sales Skin Care reason why some consumers aren’t
rose 8%. But what’s driving growth? Consumers are increasingly turning yet on the generic skin care train.
The answer: mass, generic and private- to generic skin care, with 68% saying Other reasons for non-usage include
label brands, skin care sets, natural they buy generic or store brand skin not believing generics work as well
and organic products, and social media care products. Much like mass, price as name brand products (28%), the
and loyalty programs. The best news? is the leading reason they like generic perception that generics are of lesser
There’s still plenty of room to grow. skin care (T-3). Consumers also believe quality (24%), the perception that
these products are as effective and name brand products are superior in
trustworthy as name-brand products. quality (23%), an inability to easily
1. Mass Skin Care
The retailers these consumers trust find product claims/reviews (22%) and
The mass skin care category has most for generic products skew toward happiness with current brand name
grown by leaps and bounds in the past drug and grocery stores, including products (21%).
10 years, while enhancing its offerings.
Today’s mass products offer high-
quality ingredients, trustworthy results
and real competition for higher-priced ABOUT THIS 3-PART SERIES
masstige and luxury brands that aren’t To gauge consumer’s thoughts and
affordable for everyone. feelings on skin care, we chatted with
Therefore, mass brands continue to more than 4,600 U.S. female beauty
be the consumer’s skin care of choice consumers about all things skin care.
by a long shot: 74% of all consumers Part 1, “What Consumers Want from
(T-1). By contrast, generic/private Skin Care,” appeared in the March 2019
label’s popularity comes in at 45%, issue and addressed consumer attitudes,
while masstige clocks in at 36%. generational concerns, unmet needs,
Natural/organic brands and retail which products consumers are currently
doctor brands are fourth and fifth on using and which they’d like to try.
the list, respectively. Part 2, “Decoding Skin Care Shopping Habits,” appeared in the April 2019 issue and focused
on how much consumers spend, on what, where and why, as well as which skin care products
a
“Beauty 2018-2020: Don’t Fear the Disruption,” shoppers want to try and buy next.
www.gcimagazine.com/marketstrends/regions/ Access the March and April digital editions and have subsequent issues sent to you for free by
northamerica/Beauty-2018-2020-Dont-Fear-the- signing up at gcimagazine.com/magazine
Disruption-505558911.html

T-1. Skin care consumers are using, by age


Rank Age Gen Z (18-24) Millennials (25-38) Gen X (39-53) Baby boomer (54+)
#1 Mass (74%) Mass (74%) Mass (73%) Mass (78%)
#2 Private label (55%) Private label (51%) Private label (40%) Private label (33%)
kin #3 Natural/organic (36%) Masstige (40%) Masstige (36%) Masstige (29%)
ain
s say #4 Masstige (34%) Natural/organic (39%) Natural/organic (30%) Retail doctor brands (23%)
th.” #5 Retail doctor brands/K-beauty (25%) Retail doctor brand (28%) Retail doctor brand (27%) Natural/organic (20%)

T-2. Consumers’ top reasons for using mass skin care


Percentage Motivation
83% the products are affordable
73% they are easy to find/buy
47% “the products work for me”
18% the brands have strong customer following

www.gcimagazine.com 4 Top Skin Care Drivers   19

GCI1905_Herich_fcx.indd 19 4/18/19 3:21 PM


4 TOP SKIN CARE DRIVERS

HOW NEW SKIN CARE BRANDS CAN EXCITE SHOPPERS


How can a new brand can make a splash
with consumers in such a crowded skin care
space? For younger consumers, messag-
ing that focuses on affordability moves the
needle, while older consumers are compelled
by messages that speak to anti-aging. We
asked consumers to tell us what words were
most compelling to them and tabulated the
responses by age group in T-1.

Where Shoppers Discover New


Brands & Products
For 60% of shoppers, samples, samples
and samples are the primary method of
discovering new skin care, followed by
social media and family/friend recommen-
dations (both 50%), beauty influencers and they use social media daily to post or update • 69% of Sephora VIB Rewards program
bloggers (42%), search engines like Google something on their own site or leave com- members use it less than 1x month
(32%), and magazines (28%). ments/likes on other sites. or never
The social media influence (T-2) should • 73% of Ulta Platinum Perks program
come as no surprise as beauty consumers Beauty Loyalty Programs are an members use it less than 1x month
are among the most connected of all and Underleveraged Opportunity or never
regularly active on their own and others’ The highly connected beauty consumer
This presents an opportunity for retailers
pages. Almost half of all consumers are on is driven by receiving free samples, which
and brands to drive greater engagement
social media, either posting or lurking, every many beauty rewards programs offer. Rather
through the promotion of sampling and
day. Forty-six percent(46%) say they use counterintuitively, these consumers have a
other benefits to drive brand and product
social media to look around or maybe post fairly low engagement with these programs
discovery.
something occasionally, with 44% saying For example:

T-1. Most compelling terms new skin care brands can use to entice consumers
Terminology
Age All Gen Z (18-24) Millennials (25-38) Gen X (39-53) Baby boomer (54+)
ranking
#1 Affordable (61%) Affordable (76%) Affordable (63%) Anti-aging (70%) Anti-aging (79%)
#2 Anti-aging (52%) Multi-benefit (40%) Multi-benefit (46%) Affordable (54%) Affordable (58%)
#3 Multi-benefit (45%) Natural (32%) Anti-aging (41%) Multi-benefit (46%) Multi-benefit (44%)
#4 High-quality (34%) High-quality (35%) High-quality (35%) High-quality (33%) High-quality (36%)
#5 Proven (31%) Proven (30%) Proven (30%) Proven (31%) Proven (33%)

T-2. Social media usage


Social media
Frequency Facebook Instagram YouTube Twitter Pinterest Snapchat
platform
Several times a day 74% 44% (71% Gen Z) 32% 23% 24% 22% (57% Gen Z)
Once a day 9% 12% 14% 10% 11% 7%
Several times a week 5% 9% 21% 10% 19% 9%
Once a week 3% 5% 9% 6% 10% 5%
Once every few weeks 2% 4% 9% 6% 10% 5%
Once a month or less 2% 7% 9% 9% 12% 7%
Never 5% 19% (41% boomers) 7% 36% 15% 45% (75% boomers)

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T-3. Why consumers like generic skin care
Motivation Age All Gen Z (18-24) Millennials (25-38) Gen X (39-53) Baby boomer (54+)
Less expensive 85% 87% 83% 76% 79%
Ingredients are the same 44% 38% 42% 47% 54%
They work! 35% 39% 35% 36% 29%
As effective as name brand products 33% 33% 34% 32% 32%
I trust the store to make quality skin care 17% 18% 16% 19% 16%

What would help convince a 3. Consumers Love • 76%: convenient to buy as a kit
consumer to try generic skin care? • 62%: easy to understand how/when
Their Kits!
to use them
• 72%: positive product reviews Skin care kits have experienced a • 52%: kits save me money
• 54%: friend/family recommendation surge in interest and usage. Sixty-one • 46%: best results come from
• 41%: consumer or clinical claims percent of consumers buy facial skin products made to be used together
(i.e., “95% saw a reduction in care products as a kit or a set, 55% • 36%: designed to address a specific
the appearance of fine lines and would consider giving a skin care kit as need that I have
wrinkles after one week”) a gift, and 75% would like to receive a
• 32%: clinical claims (i.e., “based on skin care kit as a gift! Here are shoppers’ Where skin care kits still struggle
a clinical study … ”) top five reasons for loving skin care kits: is the perception that, as sold, they

www.gcimagazine.com 4 Top Skin Care Drivers   21

GCI1905_Herich_fcx.indd 21 4/18/19 3:21 PM


4 TOP SKIN CARE DRIVERS

T-4. What would make kits attractive to shoppers


Desired qualities Age All Gen Z (18-24) Millennials (25-38) Gen X (39-53) Baby boomer (54+)
Addresses specific age concerns 54% 46% 51% 58% 59%
Value-priced 77% 80% 77% 76% 79%
Proof that kit works better than single products 53% 55% 53% 51% 53%
Label clearly explaining time required to use kit 33% 38% 34% 31% 31%
I trust the store to make quality skin care 17% 18% 16% 19% 16%

T-5. Top ways to convince shoppers to try generic natural/organic skin care
Percentage Motivation
61% offer free samples
58% keep the price lower than name brand products
56% offer positive product reviews
49% give me proof/consumer claims (98% agree product reduced the visible signs of aging)
40% clearly stated benefits on package
38% use safe ingredients
30% offer proof of no toxic/harmful chemicals

aren’t always of great value. Fifty-one organic and natural beauty/personal brand natural or organic product, and
percent of all consumers say the top care products, 48% using both name- 75% want to try a generic natural or
reason they dislike skin care kits is brand and generic natural/organic organic product. Ways to convince
that, if even one product isn’t used, the skin care brands, and 42% using only them to do so are listed in T-5.
kit offers no value, followed by “skin name-brand organic and natural skin
care kits are too expensive” (44%), “you care products.
For a Deeper Dive
can’t customize or personalize most Shoppers’ top reasons for using
skin care kits” (37%), confusion over natural and organic skin care include: For more data on natural and
which kit to buy (30%), and the simple organic beauty, readers can order
fact that many consumers like using • 73%: because they contain no The Benchmarking Company’s
multiple products by different brands harmful ingredients (www.benchmarkingcompany.com)
to meet their skin care needs (25%). • 72%: natural/organic is “better for “PinkReport: The New Age of
A list of qualities that would make my skin’s health” Naturals,” which provides a detailed
kits attractive to shoppers is detailed • 48%: these products are more look at the U.S. beauty and personal
in T-4. environmentally responsible care consumers’ affinity for natural
• 40%: “the products work for me” and organic beauty and personal care
products, as well as the motivators
4. Natural & Organic Although 47% of consumers claim and influencers that drive consumers
Continues to Appeal they aren’t yet using natural and to purchase more natural and organic
The appeal of natural and organic organic skin care, 58% say they are products than ever before. n
skin care continues to rise with very interested in trying these kinds
consumers, with 53% saying they use of products; 92% want to try a name-

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GCI1905_Herich_fcx.indd 22 4/18/19 3:21 PM


The home for
clean beauty and
indie brands in
Southern California

48,&.7851$5281'6–63(('720$5.(7
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GCI_full page ad.indd 1 3/7/19 1:17 PM


UNGENDERED
BEAUTY
By mixing the senses and fulfilling the need for consumers
to feel respected, designers find new ways to express scent,
color, design and motion.

| BY JOHN JIMÉNEZ and MAURICIO GUZMÁN ALONSO, Belcorp Colombia

Dave Castiblanco, Colombian androgenic model.

facebook.com/gcimagazine Global Cosmetic Industry @globalcosmeticindustry @GCI_Magazine

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GCI1905_Belcorp_fcx.indd 24 4/18/19 3:24 PM


S
ociety is undergoing It is possible to see the presence Scent-to-Fashion
changes in mentality; of this trend in original concepts in Translation
as a result, the distinct categories. Recently a gender-
At the 2018 Luxury Beauty Day
boundaries between inclusive dating app, Transdr, was
organized by the Colombian Association
male and female launched. New beer marketing in the
of Cosmetic Science and Technology
have begun to fade. market offers a gender-neutral concept,
(Accytec) in Bogota, we presented for
Therefore, limiting as with Michelob Ultra’s “Breathe” ad
the first time in the industry, how a
users by gender may not be productive spot. These concepts have impacted the
for the cosmetics industry. design and marketing of children’s toys, perfume with a genderless note can
In genderless beauty, independence car launches and more. The fashion be translated into a prêt-à-porter
and inclusion are more relevant than industry has perhaps contributed the collection, created by the renowned
masculinity or femininity. As part of most to the development of genderless Colombian designer Gregorio Díaz with
this trend we find adjacent concepts concepts, which are now common in the fantastic participation of gay and
such as gender-fluid, transgendered, street styles worldwide. transgender models.
non-gendered and androgenic, which
promote gender diversity and gender
redefinition, and inspire product
diversity and concepts in industries
such as fashion, automotive, jewelry
and cosmeticsa.
The fine fragrance category has
advanced the acceptance of the
genderless trend more than any other
cosmetics segment. Brands in both
luxury and mass market are innovating
in olfactory routes, concepts and
advertising.
That said, we are also seeing
genderless launches in personal care,
makeup and skin care. In makeup,
we see an exponential growth of male
bloggers and influencers for many
brands, while skin care recently Olfactory notes of ungendered perfume 1.
featured a very interesting launch of an
anti-aging product with a concept that
can be used by any human being. This
is the gender revolution.

Genderless Innovation
Brands are already making efforts
to launch gender-neutral products and
concepts instead of specific male/female
products, with the aim of enhancing
inclusion and expanding the range of
consumers. The search for freedom is
what leads innovators to think about
new concepts and ways of designingb.

a
Dominique Muret, “‘Genderless’ fashion rocks
the luxury sector,” Fashion Network, August 30,
2016; http://uk.fashionnetwork.com/news
b
“The Next Genderation,” as found in “Lifestyles
of Generation Z,” http://academic.mintel.com/
Olfactory notes of ungendered perfume 2.
display/859371/

www.gcimagazine.com Ungendered Beauty 25

GCI1905_Belcorp_fcx.indd 25 4/18/19 3:24 PM


UNGENDERED BEAUTY

In this experience, a renowned


fragrance company participated by
creating two olfactory genderless
scents (pictured). The designer used
a synesthetic process in which he
mixed olfactory notes and colors with
textures, tones and designs in order
to select the perfume with which the
genderless concept was most closely
associated, and translated that scent
into a fashion collection (pictured).
“At the end of this process, I
felt like perfume 1 (pictured) had
a differentiated balance in the
combination of its floral and wood
notes,” said Díaz. “This olfactory
profile leads me to a genderless
concept that intersects with the
concepts of genderless fashion, which
for me is fashion without a defined
silhouette, which in its most essential
form can be unreal and unique as a
perfume, which allowed the division of Translation of olfactory notes found in perfume 1 into colors and attire.
the outfits, the catwalk and the colors
[because] it was like the olfactory
pyramid of the fragrance that I chose.”
The collection consisted of 18
designs (pictured). At the beginning
of the show we saw yellow and green
colors for the citrus notes, in the
middle purple and pink colors for the
floral notes, and finally bronzes and
black for the wood notes.
“Contemplating and capturing all
the olfactory notes of the fragrance
in the clothes inspired me to call the
collection Hanami [flower viewing],
given this Japanese tradition of
admiring, venerating and observing
the beauty of flowers,” said Díaz. “My
fascination with aromas, essences and
flowers translates into the authenticity
that each one of us has.”
The presentation of the prêt-à-
porter collection highlighted the
relationship between the designs and
colors of the attire and the olfactory
pyramid of perfume 1. Attendees had
samples of the fragrance to enjoy while
appreciating the show.

Scent-to-Dance
At the 31st Brazilian Congress
of Cosmetology in Sao Paulo, we Examples of designs inspired from the olfactory notes.

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GCI1905_Belcorp_fcx.indd 26 4/18/19 3:24 PM


presented research on how, thanks Respect is the Underlying
to neuroscience, we can support the Need
selection of perfumes with the best
Many times we ask ourselves why
genderless profile and how a perfume
a consumer is faithful to a type of
can be translated into dance.
olfactory note, why he or she or they
The fragrance’s selection was directed
prefers a perfume over others, why
by Jaime Rincón, a finalist in Colombia’s
they like one color more than another
“Dancing with the Stars.” Jaime
on the label of a product, and why they
underwent a synesthetic immersion for
prefer one type of texture over another
several days to connect the sensation
in an anti-aging product.
of five perfume samples with different
Cristina Quiñones Dávila, author
melodies and dance types.
of “Undressing the mind of the
Rincón underwent an
consumer c,” has written extensively
electroencephalography (EEG) test to
about consumer-centric marketing.
measure brain activity and therefore
She notes that these tools are built
determine which music and dance type
on “human truths that allow us to
were in sync with the top, middle and
understand the profound emotional,
base notes of the perfumes. During
symbolic … relationship between a
this olfactory-musical test, the subject
consumer and a product.”
smelled the perfumes and listened
In the work we did for the
to several musical melodies and
translation of a genderless perfume in
dance rhythms while the EEG device
dance, we used eye-tracking to choose
recorded the curve of his brain waves.
the olfactory note with the best profile
As a result, it was possible to pair three
aligned to the concept.
different songs and dances with three
Dave Castiblanco (pictured), Jaime Rincón, of Colombia’s “Dancing with the
moments of perfume experience (top, Stars,” undergoing an electroencephalography test
a Colombian androgen model,
heart and base). to evaluate the relationship among music, dance
participated in this process: “I consider and olfactory profile.
During the congress, attendees were
that genderless concepts are not a
able to enjoy the synesthetic experience
tendency—they are more than that—
by watching a dancer perform the they are a manifesto that is related to
three different performances while breaking social schemes and allowing
experimenting with the smell of the c
Quiñones, C., “Desnudando la mente del oneself to be in society.”
fragrance throughout the presentation consumidor,” Consumer insights en el It is evident that beauty and
(pictured). marketing. Lima, Editorial Planeta Perú (2015)
cosmetics generate a social awareness
that mirrors the ideals of consumers.
“There is a lack of respect for
identity [in society],” says Castiblanco.
“Tolerance is not enough because
respect is more integral.”
A powerful finding that we can
deduct from this experience is that
respect is presented as a key element to
satisfy the demand that is behind the
entire genderless movement.
To conclude, we can say that
genderless beauty is on the rise
because human beings do not want
to be labeled. In this era of plurality,
new generations are highlighting a
genderless way of life. n

Example of EEG curve for music, dance type and olfactory profile of the perfume, evaluation at the exit.

www.gcimagazine.com Ungendered Beauty  27

GCI1905_Belcorp_fcx.indd 27 4/18/19 3:24 PM


GENDER-FLUID
BRAND DESIGN
From color to messaging, beauty and personal care brands can free themselves from
the burden of gender and open up their markets in new, exciting ways.

@GCI_Magazine facebook.com/gcimagazine Global Cosmetic Industry

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28     Global Cosmetic Industry | May 2019 w

GCI1905_Horton_irv.indd 28 4/18/19 3:25 PM


| BY MATT BURKE, Creative Director, Almighty Brands

G
ender stereotypes Non-binary Mindset fluidity. It’s not good enough to simply
have been the According to research from J Walter focus on gender equality anymore: the
bane of branding Thompson Intelligencee, an increasing next generation of consumers are after
specialists for decades. percentage of Gen Z believes gender gender neutrality.
Remember the ridicule doesn’t define a person as much as it
when, in 2012, pen used to. More than half of 13-to-20- Dig Deeper
manufacturer Bic year-olds questioned in the 2016 survey Most gender identifiers are shallow
produceda For Her pens in “female- said they knew someone who went representations of who a person is,
appropriate” pink and purple, by gender-neutral pronouns such as and companies are taking note. Brands
“designed to fit comfortably in a “they,” “them” or “ze.” need to associate themselves with
woman’s hand”? Or when U.K. shoe Gen Z also tends to reject the beliefs, passions and hobbies that have
chain Clarks received complaints over gender binary while clothes shopping, nothing to do with whether the target
its Dolly Babe girls shoesb? with just 44% of those questioned consumer identifies as a man, woman
That marketers are still making always buying clothes designed for or gender non-binary.
such obvious blunders in today’s social their own gender. For example, the Sims 4 game,
media savvy society is, frankly, mind- As this generation matures, and its created by EA, recently introduced
boggling. Just recently, Kleenex was spending power increases, companies more options when creating characters.
forced to rename its Mansize tissues as have to ensure their marketing In addition to male and female
Extra Large after being criticized for messages reflect this new era of gender characters, players can create gender-
being sexistc. fluid characters and give female and
Similarly, U.K. supermarket chain male accessories and clothing to
Waitrose was lambasted by a feminist
e
“Gen Z goes beyond gender binaries in new
Innovation Group data,” www.jwtintelligence.
avatars of the opposite gender.
campaigner for selling a sandwich But what does this mean for the
com/2016/03/gen-z-goes-beyond-gender-
branded as a Gentleman’s Smoked binaries-in-new-innovation-group-data/ beauty industry?
Chicken Caesar Rolld.
Many will see these examples as
indisputable branding errors that
should never have ended up in
production. But setting the right tone
can be tricky. So how should marketers
navigate this complex landscape?

a
Hanna Furness, “BIC ridiculed over
‘comfortable’ pink pens for women,”
www.telegraph.co.uk/news/newstopics/
howaboutthat/9503359/BIC-ridiculed-over-
comfortable-pink-pens-for-women.html
b
“Is gender-neutral branding the future?”;
www.dacgroup.com/en-gb/blog/gender-neutral-
branding-future/
c
“Kleenex drops Mansize branding after
complaints,” www.theguardian.com/uk-
news/2018/oct/18/kleenex-drops-mansize-
branding-from-tissue-boxes-after-complaints-
sexism
d
Miranda Aldersley, “Waitrose is forced to rename
‘sexist sandwich’ in its Heston Blumenthal
range known as the Gentleman’s Roll after
campaigners slammed it on Twitter,” www.
dailymail.co.uk/news/article-6287773/Waitrose-
forced-rename-sexist-sandwich-known- With Almighty client Good Science Beauty, we’ve focused on ensuring the brand
Gentlemans-Roll.html communicates its scientific credentials instead of any gender-specific benefits.

www.gcimagazine.com Gender-fluid Brand Design   29

GCI1905_Horton_irv.indd 29 4/18/19 3:25 PM


GENDER-FLUID BRAND DESIGN

Celebrating Efficacy &


Individuality
With Almighty client Good Science
Beauty, we’ve focused on ensuring
the brand communicates its scientific Color is hugely important. It’s
credentials instead of any gender-
specific benefits.
here where brands so often
The look is inspired by
pharmaceutical packaging. This reflects
make blunders, reinforcing
the brand’s willingness to engage with
customers about the actual technology,
outdated clichés; getting it
rather than patronizing them with right opens up your market.
empty or over-inflated claims.
The tone of voice for the Good
Science Beauty brand was key. This
is a brand that never encourages
unrealistic ideals but instead celebrates
individuality.
The emphasis is on what the product crops make the shots intimate without shades or illustrative elements so often
can do for the user. It’s a point of view being voyeuristic. used for products for women.
we summed up in the tagline: “In sync Color is hugely important. It’s here
with you.” Lifestyle Over Gender where brands so often make blunders,
Similarly, the new Al!ve range, reinforcing outdated clichés; getting it
Intimacy without Voyeurism which recently launched in leading right opens up your market.
This focus on individuality U.K. store Sainsbury’s, is aimed
follows through into the styling of at both men and women. The Expanding the Boundaries
photography. There are some obvious proposition here is around active In many ways, going beyond
decisions that we made here, like beauty, a gender-neutral idea focused gender as a defining characteristic is a
choosing a diverse group of models in on lifestyle and mindset. liberating and refreshing way to start
terms of age and ethnicity. We therefore created a design that is the branding process. It expands the
But more than that, we made sure suitably punchy, with stark bold type boundaries.
models had a natural look, verging on and high color. We took care to avoid Instead of being defined by
androgynous, and they’re never posing monochrome or dark tones so often stereotypes, thinking about a product
in an overtly sexualized way. Close used for products for men, or softer from a completely gender-neutral
starting point enables us to think
about other more interesting attributes
relevant to a target market, from where
they like to travel to what they like
to eat to where they stand on climate
change and so on.
For many brands, the trend for
gender-fluid marketing is still an
untapped opportunity to forge better
connections with young people today.
Gone are the days when humanity was
divided into two buckets. And that can
only be a good thing. n

MATT BURKE is the creative


director at Almighty (www.almightybrands.
co.uk ), a U.K.-based branding studio.
The new Al!ve range, which recently launched in leading U.K. store Sainsbury’s, is aimed at
both men and women.

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GCI1905_Horton_irv.indd 30 4/18/19 3:25 PM


DISCOVER HCP’S DAZZLING
TRENDS FOR SPRING SUMMER 20
B E A U T IIFFU
BE FUL P
PAACKA
AGG IN
N G & DE
D EC
COO RA
R T I ON
O N S OL
OLUUTT IO
ONS FO
ORR C OL
OLOR
O R C OS
OR OS
SMM E TTII CS
CS, S
SKK IN
N CA
CARREE & F R AGR
A GR
G A N CE
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JAV ITS CEN TER | B OOTH A 12

1 5-16 MAY 2019

W W W. H C PAC K A G IN G. CO M

GCI_full page ad.indd 1 4/15/19 5:36 PM


DESIGNING
DISTINCTIVENESS
How beauty brands can stand out in a sea of sameness.

| BY NICK VAUS, Free the Birds

facebook.com/gcimagazine Global Cosmetic Industry @globalcosmeticindustry @GCI_Magazine

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Finding a distinct color palette is essential, and
brands that deliberately push against category
codes have huge success in catching the eye.

“Find out who you are and do it on But there’s only one Dolly, combining brands considering exactly how they
purpose.” them all into one irresistible package. look, feel, sound, smell and behave, in

W
And that’s precisely what great brand an utterly consistent way.
design needs to deliver today: an utterly
ords to live by from distinctive package in the broadest Know Who You Are
Dolly Parton. Proudly possible sense. Gone are the days when The starting point has to be a distinct
larger than life, her some pretty packaging and occasional and relevant brand purpose that runs
over-the-top style is print ads cut the mustard. like silver thread through everything
matched only by her Unfortunately, looking at the typical else. Dolly knows exactly what she’s
commitment to career and philanthropy crowded drugstore beauty shelf in about; her beauty line would be glitzy,
(her children’s literacy project recently 2019, we find a sea of black, white and out there and effective—certainly not
sent out its 100 millionth free book). pink, with a dash of silver and gold. monochrome, aloof or overly green.
But what does this have to do with the Even the most tactile of velvet-touch Examining and reexamining brand
beauty industry? lipstick bullets with a satisfyingly heavy statements is a must. For example,
It’s about standing out from the click is virtually indistinguishable Glossier’s “skin first, makeup second”
crowd. There are plenty of talented among hundreds of thumbnail images. is a clear statement of intent. Even the
singer-songwriters, plenty of larger- In order to be truly distinctive, new high-impact Glossier Play reflects
than-life blondes, plenty of humorous, beauty brand design has to stand out this DNA as a “brand of dialed-up
wise women, plenty of philanthropists. in every single channel. That means beauty extras.” By contrast, many legacy

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DESIGNING DISTINCTIVENESS

beauty brands have lost any meaningful


sense of purpose. For instance, Max
Factor’s “Makeup for Makeup Artists” is
simply no longer true.

Develop a Voice
It’s important to know what you want
to say and how you say it. A distinctive
tone brings a brand to life. A fantastic
example is Pat McGrath Labs. The
brand founder has been nicknamed
“mother” by the supermodels she
works with due to her vast knowledge
and warm nature. Therefore, when
consumers subscribe to the brand’s In men’s wellness, Hims goes against every rule of men’s branding with curved lettering and
newsletter there’s no bland “thank you color schemes miles away from the harsh gray and black of its category.
for subscribing.” Instead, shoppers get:
“You signed up. Mother’s wrecked. Pat
sends her love and your discount code.” curved lettering miles away from the rubbish, but true partnerships and
The advent of voice search and harsh gray and black of its category. format and structure innovations can
digital assistants means this needs to Twenty years ago, bespoke packs reinvigorate and maintain consumer
be taken to the next level, with serious were standard, but with the global excitement.
thought required regarding sonic recession and increased competition
identity. We know that listening to on the market, investment in unique Strength in Simplicity
something really gets under the skin, structures has been squeezed. But The retail approach of brand
which is how consumer decisions are the simple fact of the matter is that blocking—taking more and more
made. Therefore, it’s critical to consider standout structure has never been room up on the shelf—has created
what a brand should sound like. Is it a more important—Fenty’s hexagonal sprawling product ranges. Every new
he/she/zie? Does it sound different in shape and The One by Frederic Fekkai hero ingredient, every new format,
different places? What music reflects spring to mind. Distinctive formats can every possible price level is often
its character? have a similar impact. For instance, bolted on without much thought given
Trinny London’s informal, yet high-end to whether it’s relevant to the brand.
Standout Design makeup stacks pop against traditional Today, it’s far better to clean house,
Finding a distinct color palette is luxury brands’ compacts and bullets. have simpler shelves with fewer SKUs
essential, and brands that deliberately Unique designs can also unleash and interactive, informative point-of-
push against category codes have huge a sustainability story. For example, sale designs that help the consumer
success in catching the eye. Glossier’s Myro’s refillable, beveled deodorant navigate to what they actually need.
pale pink was almost shocking when it pack looks fantastic and uses 50% less Challenger brands win through their
originally launched, and has since been plastic than conventional deodorant. offer’s simplicity. Even at a $1-billion-
joined by a slew of copycats. Similarly, Understandably, we often hear plus valuation, Glossier has just 14
Asarai’s bright block yellow jumps off brands can’t afford to change their products in skin care, compared to
any page, screen or shelf. In men’s packaging, but something that can be 34 and 35 for Burt’s Bees and Aveeno,
wellness, Hims goes against every rule done is to pilot and experiment with respectively.
of men’s branding with pale pink and limited editions to see what’s possible—
whether that’s collaborations, revisiting World-building Experiences
heritage packaging or exploring new The most magical quality of new
sustainable packs. Having personally indie brands is their ability to create
queued up at Harrods for a limited immersive worlds. Goop and Glossier
edition of the classic British condiment don’t just have a look and feel, they also
HP Sauce designed by Paul Smith, I have a lifestyle, a fashion, a fragrance
can testify to the excitement factor in and even food attached to them. Pop-
something quirky and rare! ups and retail experiences are essential
Unique designs can unleash a sustainability story.
For example, Myro’s refillable, beveled deodorant Of course this must be carefully to this, but also multichannel content
pack looks fantastic and uses 50% less plastic than considered in order to avoid being creation and partnerships that reflect
conventional deodorant. hackneyed, irrelevant or just plain and amplify their brand. For example,

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Lush creates documentaries and activist Cars vs Faster Horses Only time will tell if the big beauty
conferences on key social issues. Being a distinctive brand means companies have the appetite and
Quite often the product is the last thinking and behaving differently and bravery to rethink their business
piece of the puzzle; it’s not about selling always trying to deliver more to an as usual and really ask themselves
but instead engaging in conversations. increasingly demanding consumer. whether they know who they are and if
This is something that Chanel has This will never be achieved by going to they are truly doing it on purpose. n
clearly noted with its Atelier Beauté the research. As Henry Ford said, “If
beauty playground in Manhattan, where I had asked people what they wanted,
buying is less important than trying. they would have said faster horses.” NICK VAUS is the creative director
Big brands try to tap into this The same is true in branding. If and a partner at Free the Birds (www.
concept via celebrities and influencers, freethebirds.com; Twitter: @freethebirdsLDN),
you’d asked male consumers what a London-based independent branding,
vicariously promoting a lifestyle that they thought about a pale pink, curvy design and communications agency that
may bear very little resemblance to brand making jokes about erectile passionately believes in uncovering ugly
the brand promise or experience in- dysfunction, hair loss and skin aging,
truths and delivering strategic work through beautiful thinking.
store. Instagram clicks mean little if Its clients include Coty, P&G, Bayer, Lindt and Nestlé. To reach
the answer would probably be: “no Vaus and the organization, email joanne@freethebirds.com
the influencer will do a sponsored post thanks.” That is the advantage of a
for anyone. It’s just a different sea of challenger brand: they’re allowed to
sameness. And that won’t be enough in step outside the norm and go with their
the long run. insight and creativity.

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Lo
liv
po
be
cle
fus

facebook.com/gcimagazine Global Cosmetic Industry @globalcosmeticindustry @GCI_Magazine

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3 WAYS TO
CAPTURE THE
CASUAL BEAUTY
CONSUMER
Infrequent beauty shoppers represent
a massive market opportunity.

| BY SARA JONES, Free the Birds

W
ho’s catering This matches the conventional 80/20
to the casual marketing wisdom that the top 20% of
consumers of consumers make up 80% of category
beauty? spend. So all that beauty social media
It’s easy to chatter talking about the millions of
forget, with all beauty SKUs available? A lot of people
the noise about 10-step Korean skin are simply not joining in.
care routines and contouring, that the What Birchbox also discovered,
majority of women are fair-weather however, was when it focused on
beauty consumers. Beauty subscription attracting and engaging the casual
box Birchbox’s research found that beauty consumer with education and
around 75% of women are what special offers, these shoppers doubled
they call “beauty casuals,” with the their beauty product spend in less than
remaining “beauty junkies” typically a year, trading up to higher-priced
spending at least four times more on brands. These consumers can present a
products per yeara. truly lucrative prospect for brands.
Looking at the practicalities of all consumers’ Research carried by Ipsos for Sally
lives—the need to dip into beauty at different Hansen found that 54% of U.S. women Designing Brands for the
points in the day such last-minute meetings, surveyed wore makeup less than twice
before the school run or after the gym—it’s Casual Consumer
a week; 17% never wear it at allb.
clear that products need to be of minimal Even as a seasoned beauty junkie
fuss and of maximum effectiveness.
myself, the amount of available
a
“Birchbox CEO on the evolution of the product choice can be overwhelming,
disruptive beauty brand”; https://nrf.com/blog/
not to mention the fact that, as a busy
birchbox-ceo-evolution-disruptive-beauty-brand
working mother, there’s no time to be
b
“Sally Hansen Polling Study”; https://
www.ipsos.com/sites/default/files/ct/news/ pondering an hour-long routine in the
documents/2017-11/COTY-Sally-Hansen- morning—I need to look good, fast.
Topline-2017-11-20-v1.pdf So, for someone who’s never been into

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3 WAYS TO CAPTURE THE CASUAL BEAUTY CONSUMER

beauty at all, imagine how incredibly


daunting it all feels!
Looking at the practicalities of all
consumers’ lives—the need to dip into
beauty at different points in the day
such last-minute meetings, before the
school run or after the gym—it’s clear
that products need to be of minimal
fuss and of maximum effectiveness.
Recent figures from Mintel’s “U.S.
Ingredients and Format Trends” report
bears this out: the skin care formats
U.S. female skin care users are most
likely to have tried or be interested in
trying are on-the-go products, such as
exfoliating wipes (81%).
How can brands make beauty more
accessible and user-friendly to those
who find the “beauty junkie” approach
too full-on and want products to work
for their busy, complex lifestyles? And
which brands are already hitting it out
the park? Female skin care users ranked simple usage instructions (58%) and short ingredient lists (53%) as the most
important packaging features.

1. Multifunctional Magic
They say there’s nothing new under In color cosmetics, in addition to a recognized styling product in its
the sun in beauty, and that’s certainly BB, CC and DD creams, which offer own right: volume, texture and even
true when it comes to multipurpose coverage, perfecting, UV-protecting and hold. Purelogy’s Colour Fanatic Multi-
beauty products. Dr. Bronner’s Pure- even anti-aging benefits, other products Tasking Hair Beautifier promises
Castile soaps claim eight cleaning are working harder too. Glamglow’s 21 benefits, including conditioning,
uses: “face, body, hair, food & pets, the GlowPowder Hyaluronic Acid-Infused instant detangling, heat protection and
dishes, laundry or mop.” But there’s a Glow Palette hydrates as it shades, breakage reduction.
new generation of products emerging bronzes, highlights and contours. Sally
that actively work to reduce the stages Hansen’s Color Therapy is an intensive 2. Fabulous Formats
and length of beauty routines, without nail treatment combined with nail
color and Giorgio Armani’s Eye & Whether it’s the dressing table,
compromising on efficacy. This is
Brow Maestro eye lines, shadows and bathroom or in someone’s purse or
about going beyond multipurpose:
sorts brows. gym bag, no casual
not simply cleansing or moisturizing
In skin care, queen of easy glamour, beauty consumer (or
or colorizing, but actively performing
Charlotte Tilbury’s Multi-Miracle Glow anyone on-the-go, for
multiple functions.
is a cleanser, mask and balm that can that matter) wants to
moisturize, cleanse and revitalize, as have a giant kit—not
well as give gloss to the body and face. just the literal number
Lixir’s Universal Emulsion is a day of bottles, but also
cream, night cream and priming serum applicators and tools.
with UV shield, and Farsáli’s Unicorn Mintel’s research
Essence is an antioxidant serum and cited previously
primer in one. found that about 30%
In hair, dry shampoos have been of female skin care
reinvented by reducing white residue,
catering to more hair colors and Fabulous formats: VO5 has
adding styling functionality. Hair launched the Style Edit Flyaway
Multifunctional magic: Glamglow’s GlowPowder Touch-up Wand, a hair serum
Hyaluronic Acid-Infused Glow Palette hydrates as it by Sam McKnight’s Lazy Girl Dry in a mascara-type bottle.
shades, bronzes, highlights and contours. Shampoo absorbs excess oil and is

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FRAGRANCE CREATION FROM THE SOURCE

GCI_Full Page ad.indd 1 4/10/18 10:20 AM


3 WAYS TO CAPTURE THE CASUAL BEAUTY CONSUMER

PROBLEM-SOLVING PACKAGING
Casual beauty consumers and beauty junkies alike are drawn to packaging
concepts that address challenges and maximize ease-of-use. What follows is
a roundup of recent innovations that simplify consumers’ lives.

Texen has designed mascara packaging featuring a


twisted 360-degree brush, which has a folding wand
that bends mechanically up to 90 degrees. The
design is meant to offer the best application angle
and features a patented brush and silicone wiper.

Olive & June has introduced The


Poppy, a universal nail polish bottle
handle meant to make at-home
nail polish application more user-
The single-use Pocket Palette comprises black mascara friendly. According to the company,
with a wand, pink dual-purpose lip/cheek color, and BB The Poppy can be secured to the
cream or foundation in one of four shades, from light to top of any nail polish for “a comfy
dark, according to the company. Designed by Identipak, the grip, more control and even, steady
palette is ideal for on-the-go use and travel, and is sold in strokes.” Retailing for $16, the
packs of three or 10 ($11.99-34.99). The Pocket Palette handle is travel-friendly, easy to
retails on https://thepocketpalette.com and Amazon.com. clean and provides a comfortable
and controlled grip.

Grace Beauty offers a “selection of beauty product


Essentia Beauty has created two designs for convenience. The Palette on-the- add-ons designed to make products more accessible
go comprises customizable design, size and finishing and can be developed and a platform for you to share your beauty story,”
for all-over, eye and face makeup. A refillable version is available. The Elfin according to the brand. Its innovations include The
Mix & Match makeup set maximizes on-the-go convenience with a system of Safe Grip, a rubber grip that provides a wide-angled
interlocking components. grip and better control for users.

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users were prepared to pay more for products for intimate cleansing. Ouai
products with built-in applicators or uses the sheet format for its portable
multi-use packaging containing several Anti-Frizz Hair Sheets. This format
products. To meet this need, beauty also looks like a rich opportunity
brands must actively look to make for further functional consideration,
products either applicator-free or easier. particularly moisturization.
Cross-innovation in formats between Other casual-beauty-friendly format
categories can prove a particularly rich innovations include the Jo Loves!
source of inspiration. perfume paintbrush and Trinny
Built-in applicators are a mainstay of London’s interchangeable, stacking face
color cosmetics, but increasingly other makeup products for finger application.
categories are starting to incorporate Finally, miniaturization offers an easy
them. Yes To Cotton Anti-Pollution entry point for a less confident beauty
Oxygenated Foaming Cleanser solves consumer, meaning they are less likely
the problem by incorporating a built- to sit unused at home. A whole host of
in cleanser brush that helps to deep brands is now making dedicated full-
clean, exfoliate and massage, as does size miniatures for sale, from skin care
Tan Luxe Instant Hero Illuminating brands like La Mer and La Prairie to
Skin Perfector, with its built-in sponge lipsticks and palettes from MAC, Urban
applicator. VO5 has also recently Decay and Huda Beauty.
released a hair serum in a mascara-
type bottle.
3. Simple Clarity
Sticks and pencils have been around
forever, but today’s generation of Simpler is almost always better: this
products elevate them to the next might be the hardest design mission
level. Nudestix has all types of makeup for legacy beauty brands to take on
in pencil form, housed neatly in a board. People generally are confused
waterproof, stylish tin. Skin care by jargon, ingredient names and
is now taking up the solid baton, generally overwhelmed by complexity.
with Milk Makeup at the vanguard, If even I stare at INCI lists baffled,
boasting a full skin care routine in stick a casual beauty consumer will walk
format—Matcha Cleanser and toner, away entirely.
Watermelon serum, and Cooling Water Mintel’s research backs this up:
de-puffing eye treatment. And mass is female skin care users ranked simple
catching up, as with Olay’s Glow Boost usage instructions (58%) and short
White Charcoal Face Mask stick. Even ingredient lists (53%) as the most
hair care is getting in on the action, important packaging features. If it
including R+Co’s Dart pomade stick. ever was suitable to have boswellox
Wipes also prove effective away as a feature on the label, it certainly
from facial skin care. New brands isn’t now. Sarah Brown of Pai Skincare
like GoodWipes and Recess offer tells it like it is: “That means listing
biodegradable, natural on-the-go ingredients in plain English, not using
pseudoscience to describe products,
generally presenting things as they are,
warts and all.”
Hear, hear. n

SARA JONES (joanne@freethebirds.


com) is a partner at Free the Birds
(www.freethebirds.com), the brand
communication and design agency
formerly known as DewGibbons+Partners.
Now 21 years old, its clients include
Charlotte Tilbury’s Multi-Miracle Glow is a cleanser, Bayer, Coty, Davidoff, Lindt, Nestlé and P&G. Its boutique,
mask and balm that can moisturize, cleanse and tailored approach is built on curiosity, flexibility and smart
revitalize, as well as give gloss to the body and face. design thinking which elevates compassionate brands.

www.gcimagazine.com 3 Ways to Capture the Casual Beauty Consumer   41

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HIGH-TOUCH
PACKAGING
What makes consumers want to reach out and grab your brand?

| BY LISA DOYLE

Product packaging holds more sway on a


shopper’s decision to buy than endorsements
from influencers and celebrities.

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W ith so much
marketing taking
place in the digital
arena, it can often
seem like that’s
the best (or only) place to invest
your branding dollars. Earlier this
year a, however, Karen Wolfe, vice
president, client consulting, Nielsen,
packaging also edges out the effects of
a brand’s social media accounts.
And, it’s not only what the package
looks like that can help your products
cut through the noise—it’s also how it
feels in-hand and the little details that
accompany its usage that strengthen
the overall feeling your brand evokes.
“The reality is that consumers today,
noted that 80% of U.S. prestige beauty in every category, have unlimited
sales are happening in the physical choices, and there’s not a facet of
retail channel. In fact, physical retail differentiation not available to a
achieved dollar sales increases in each consumer,” says Julie Corbett, CEO
of the last three years (2016-2018). of Ecologic Brands, a California-
Therefore, both the visual and tangible based packaging company focused on
elements of packaging continue to sustainability.
make a key difference in consumers’ That’s why it’s more important than
product-buying decisions. ever to make sure your packaging and
According to the Yotpo Direct-to- brand align. The Nicki Minaj Queen fragrance embraces excess
to full-heartedly evoke the celebrity’s ethos.
Consumer Beauty Trends Report 2019 b,
surveying U.S. and U.K. women, a
brand’s product packaging holds more
sway on a shopper’s decision to buy The two companies worked together
than endorsements from influencers to develop a bottle that could showcase
and celebrities; not only that, ... there’s not their commitment to sustainability by
leveraging post-consumer materials
a
“Beauty 2018-2020: Don’t Fear the Disruption,” a facet of coming out of the waste stream. The
result was a strong, water-resistant
differentiation
www.gcimagazine.com/marketstrends/regions/
northamerica/Beauty-2018-2020-Dont-Fear-the- paper bottle that can withstand weeks
Disruption-505558911.html inside the shower, bolstered by a thin
b
www.yotpo.com/d2c-beauty-report/ not available to extrusion blow-molded liner.
“It’s not just a paper bottle … it’s
a consumer ... made of recycled paper and recycled
cardboard, so that is huge,” explains
Corbett. “The shell is compostable
as well.”
The bottle is fully functional for
all practical uses and as sustainably
sourced as the Seed Phytonutrients
Making Sustainable product inside—facets which are
Innovation Obvious completely apparent to consumers
It’s not good enough to be when the packaging is viewed on the
sustainable—green innovation should shelf or held in-hand.
clearly look and feel eco-friendly. When “The consumer wants to buy
L’Oréal startup Seed Phytonutrients products made of recycled materials,
was looking for a packaging but it’s not always obvious,” says
supplier that could incorporate its Corbett. “If you walk down the aisle
environmentally responsible brand and it looks like it is made of natural
values, the beauty giant had to look components, you can assume that
no further than Ecologic Brands. The what’s inside likely will be as well.
supplier had launched its first paper And, from an intuitive level, paper just
bottle with Seventh Generation’s feels much more organic and natural.
Seed Phytonutrients’ water-resistant paper bottle laundry detergent in 2011, and Seed Everyone knows what plastic feels like,
can withstand weeks inside the shower, bolstered
by a thin extrusion blow-molded liner; it also clearly Phytonutrients adapted the design into but there’s something about paper and
looks eco-friendly. its new lines for hair, skin and body. the tactile component to it.”

www.gcimagazine.com High-touch Packaging  43

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HIGH-TOUCH PACKAGING

Luxury Signaling brands—and can be assured that the


Luxury skin and cosmetics brand cosmetics inside are as well.
Sothys Paris has always been known
for its commitment to excellence in Packaging that is Just …
prestige beauty. The brand collaborated Extra
with Texen Beauty Partners on two In February of this year, hip-hop
elegant square compacts: a smaller star Nicki Minaj joined the ranks of
version for brow products and a larger celebrities with their own signature The magnetic closures for two elegant Sothys Paris
one for the face. Both designs are made scent when she partnered with Luxe square compacts signal high quality to the shopper.
from mass-dyed ABS with a matte Brands to create her limited edition
lacquer, and the lids feature the iconic Queen fragrance, a reference to her
Sothys medallion. 2018 platinum-selling album and accessible cosmetics. So, for its
The magnetic closure, however, is a nod to endorsement deals with limited edition Candy Puff Powder
what truly differentiates the package. luxury brands, including Mercedes blusher, Texen Beauty partners
Upon opening the compact and Benz and Diesel. created a package that was just as fun
feeling the pull of the closure, the It’s no surprise that the fragrance’s as the name and concept.
user instantly knows the package is package also exudes luxury, sensuality The blusher features a standard
of higher-quality than that of most and power. The satin-smooth pack injected in matte plastic and a
secondary packaging features raised hidden sponge applicator in the base,
gold script and a design evoking an but the package’s key design attribute
Ancient Egyptian collar necklace worn is its cap. The user opens the package,
by a queen; inside, the gold-colored reminiscent of a tiny hatbox, by pulling
bottle is reminiscent of a pharaoh bust on a miniature ribbon in the cap,
in the image of Minaj herself. The made in the exact same shade as the
pharaonic headpiece that adorns the powder itself. The overall effect of the
bottle is removable and is meant for package—and the act of using it—is
the consumer to wear as a bracelet—a cute, sweet and fun. In other words, it’s
constant tactile reminder of the right on target for the brand. n
attributes of the Nicki Minaj brand.

Packaging That’s an LISA DOYLE was formerly the


Experience associate editor of Global Cosmetic
Industry and is a freelance writer in the
The Candy Puff Powder blusher features a cap that
Europe’s Douglas-Nocibé is Chicago area. Her work has also appeared
opens like a tiny hatbox; it’s cute, sweet and fun, among the continent’s top beauty in Skin Inc., Salon Today, Modern Salon,
right on target for the brand. destinations thanks to its trendy, Master Barber and Writer’s Digest.

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GCI_full page ad.indd 1 4/15/19 5:36 PM
REIMAGINING
PACKAGING DESIGN
FOR BEAUTY
How new technologies, sustainability, speed-to-market, unique designs and
customization are reshaping the look and feel of beauty brands.

Suppliers are pushing the envelope with new design parameters and category-disrupting concepts.

facebook.com/gcimagazine Global Cosmetic Industry @globalcosmeticindustry @GCI_Magazine

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46     Global Cosmetic Industry | May 2019 w

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R
ecent packaging- and
manufacturing-focused
events—including Luxe
Pack/MakeUp in LA and
Cosmoprof Bologna—
shed light on the rapidly changing
innovation and supply chain landscape.

Turnkey Services Expand for


Indies & Speed-to-Market
The number of companies offering
low minimums, quick turnarounds
and enhanced turnkey services has
expanded greatly in the last few years,
reflecting the rise of indies and overall
During Luxe Pack/MakeUp in LA, Identipak presented a range of new capabilities and sampling packaging.
speed-to-market boom.
During Luxe Pack LA, Identipak
presented a range of new capabilities Geka claims the configurator will face category, where shade ranges
and sample packaging, including its help brands move to market faster for products such as foundation and
newly unveiled Holographic Cold Foil by streamlining the design, review concealer have expanded in response to
finishes. The finishes can be printed and sourcing process. The company the Fenty effect.
on various films, and provide a shiny, plans to add additional functionality Fusion is also adding in skin
high-end finish to sampling solutions. in the future for categories such as care-type ingredients to makeup
Meanwhile, Identipak has expanded eyeliners and lip glosses. It will also formulations for an enhanced
its capacity for secondary packaging apply learnings from the behaviors of marketing angle. At the same time,
services, as well as die-cut sachets, its customers to better understand the the company continues to draw on
bottles and tubes. (Turn to Page 40 to design and sourcing process. its traditional strength in skin care to
see Identipak’s work for The Pocket Looking ahead, the company will leverage airless packaging for clean
Palette, a unique on-the-go design.) allow North American customers to beauty formulations with limited
speed up their timelines by offering preservation systems.
Online Product Configuration product development, production, Lowe explained that clean beauty
& Expanded Manufacturing decoration and filling units in its Elgin, once meant simply removing parabens
Illinois, site, removing time-intensive from formulations. Today, however,
Geka recently unveiled its Online
shipping from Germany. This includes brands are leveraging the term to
Product Configurator (www.geka-
the July 1, 2019, opening of the Elgin characterize formulations that include
world.com), which allows brands and
bottling plant. natural preservation systems or which
packaging teams to create virtual
mascara product designs by leveraging
aesthetic, functional and performance A Growing Turnkey Portfolio
metrics via a mobile-friendly interface. As the indie beauty boom continues
The system’s integrated search engine and speed-to-market becomes the
offers users selections of bottles, mantra for small and large brands
caps and brushes, paired with added alike, FusionPKG has expanded its
design elements, including brand turnkey services with the acquisition
logos, colors, decorative effects and of Architectural Beauty (AB), a New
artwork. Existing customers can Jersey-based formulation, marketing
match their current packaging with and turnkey provider. According to
new components to save time. The FusionPKG, the acquisition will help Special supplement: Read more
resulting design can be shared among bolster Fusion’s portfolio of formulas about sustainable packaging innovations
teams for review or displayed via and expand its capabilities to include and the impact of serialization on Page S2
augmented reality, allowing users to marketing and design services. of the digital edition; access for free at
see how their designs will stand out Lowe explained that the color space gcimagazine.com/DE.
on-shelf. has expanded, particularly in the

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REIMAGINING PACKAGING DESIGN FOR BEAUTY

eschew talc, silicones and other


conventional materials. That said,
performance remains critical.
Meanwhile, she said, fast-moving
indie clients are speeding to market in
six to nine months, if very aggressive,
and making few modifications to
turnkey formulations. Larger brands,
meanwhile, typically feature more
layers of approval and validation.
Therefore, “fast” for them is relative,
clocking in at as little as 18 months. APC Packaging’s XS series of airless bottles and jars features bold designs, including shining and
reflective diamond-like properties for maximum visual impact (right). The jars are available in 15 ml,
30 ml and 50 ml iterations, while the bottles are available in 30 ml, 50 ml, 100 ml and 120 ml sizes.
Low Minimums APC’s new 40 ml and 50 ml applicator tubes (left), meanwhile, feature flexible silicon and rollerball
tips and an optional built-in vibrating motor to support the application of product.
APC has soft-launched color
cosmetics components for masstige
products, including compacts, loose • Turnkey makeup and skin care available in North America, features
powders, lipsticks, mascara wands concepts featuring full-spectrum stock packaging, including airless and
and eyeshadow pans. The company’s CBD and hemp seed oil for unique minis, for fragrance, skin and sun care,
minimums are 25,000, which is textures. makeup, body care and hair care, as
relatively low, even for an indie brand. • Turnkey lip formulas comprising well as samplers for fragrance. Indie
The company is also boosting its geodes for an energy lift. The brands can order samples directly
manufacturing sustainability and has formulas were presented in PCR from the company, learn about Aptar’s
a forthcoming hush-hush sustainable packaging to add a sustainable services and browse the company’s
packaging project forthcoming (more dimension to the concepts. full collection.
to come). • Turnkey formulations created “The Indie Boutique is something the
without ingredients typically entire company stands behind,” says
Clean Beauty Turnkey flagged on no-no lists. The Philippe Erhart, president, beauty and
Cosmopak recently presented hemp- ingredients comprised ethically and home, North America. “We want every
inspired, clean beauty and crystal- sustainably sourced materials. brand owner to have accessibility to
infused product concepts during the high-quality dispensing systems and
MakeUp in LA show in Santa Monica. A New Indie Boutique be able to provide the same quality
The concepts were designed for direct- Aptar has unveiled its Indie experience for their consumers.”
to-consumer brands and influencer Boutique service, which features
collaborations directed at Gen Z 5,000-piece minimums and four- Flexible Metallization Effects
consumers and included: week lead times. The online service, for Packaging
Anomatic has unveiled a new flexible
metallization technique for seamless
hinged closures. The result is a metallic
finish that is flexible without flaking,
peeling or delaminating. Brands
can add sparkling finishes on metal
and plastic, using the company’s
technologies, which offer different flake
sizes for various effects.
Anomatic is able to add effects such
as double anodization and screen
print deco. These effects can be
offered to Anomatic’s stock offerings,
which deliver speed to market and
minimums of 20,000 pieces—ideal for
some indie brands.
Cosmopak has introduced a range of turnkey innovations that tap into
full-spectrum CBD and hemp seed oil for unique textures, geode-infused Anomatic notes that some clients
formulations, and ethically and sustainably sourced materials. are looking to get products to market Q

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Anomatic has unveiled a new flexible metallization technique for seamless hinged closures
that result in a metallic finish that is flexible without flaking, peeling or delaminating. Shannaz Schopfer, founding general manager
of Cosmetica Innovations USA.

in less than 10 weeks (on the extreme regulatory and warehousing services, fragrance and skin care. The new
end of things), which has led Anomatic and Design Quest, which delivers offering will reportedly accelerate lead
to increase its stock packaging with turnkey packaging solutions. WWP times for replenishment orders.
decorator techniques in-house. will merge the organizations in one
Anomatic has also introduced location in the area as a new West A New California Beauty
stock anodized aluminum lip balm Coast base for WWP. (Turn to Page Innovation Hub
packaging solutions that can have a S5 of the digital edition packaging
Cosmetica, the Toronto-based beauty
range of customized effects applied supplement.)
contract manufacturer, is opening an
to both weighted and non-weighted
innovation hub in Woodland Hills,
variants. Effects include debossing, Customizable Tubes
California, in 2019. The company
screen printing, embossing, double Pack-Tubes presented its range of specializes in color cosmetics,
anodizing, hot foil stamping and tubes for personal care, cosmetics particularly slurries, for categories
gradient anodizing. and pharmace­utical applications. The such as lipsticks and mascaras, but
company has introduced low-count has also introduced capabilities that
Growing West Coast minimums for customized tubes in infuse skin-friendly ingredients such as
Operations order to service indie brands, as well squalanes and hyaluronic acid into new
WWP has expanded its offerings as customers working with small hybrid makeup concepts.
of cosmetic packaging components, batch projects. The endeavor is being led by Shannaz
plastic tubes and full-service turnkey Schopfer, founding general manager of
solutions with the acquisitions of Turnkey for Fragrance and Cosmetica Innovations USA.
Los Angeles-based Cosmetic Design Skin Care At Cosmetica’s LA Hub, Schopfer and
Group (CDG), which offers turnkey Silgan Dispensing has introduced her team will conceptualize exclusive
design, packaging, assembly, displays, XpresService, a turnkey service for products, which will then be prototyped
and tested on-site. The office will also
offer sales and color-matching.
“The West Coast hub brings
Cosmetica services closer to clients,”
said Schopfer. “We are a concierge
service. We offer bespoke resources to
each of our partners [and] we intend
to combine the art and business of
beauty in the LA Hub.”
The new site will focus on clients
such as indie brands and launches
from makeup artists and will feature a
sales office and chemist staff to foster
innovation in Southern California. This
Queenspack now offers a refillable roller design, as well as a range of bottles with water-transfer wood effects. will enable Cosmetica to host clients

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REIMAGINING PACKAGING DESIGN FOR BEAUTY

to collaborate in-person on shade-


matching and small batching locally.
The goal, according to the company is
to foster speed-to-market.

Packaging Design: Pushing


the Limits
Geka has introduced its Kiss the
Nature collection—a mascara, eyebrow
product, eyeliner, lip gloss and liquid
highlighter, plus a makeup bag and
two skin care products—comprising
Geka’s Kiss the Nature collection of packs and applicators.
sustainable packaging materials and
laser decoration technology, which
create a sense of organic surfaces. diameter allows for exact application laser technology to resemble dry,
• The mascara features the bi- and accurate shaping, filling and cracked desert soil.
injected BrilliantEyes brush defining of the brow contour. The • The liquid highlighter’s applicator
that leverages Geka’s Sandwich pointed tip facilitates accentuating is flattened on the sides to offer
technology to produce a stable of the brow shape. The packaging’s precise definition for the inner eye
brush core and flexible, soft bristles birch design was achieved with a corners, cheeks and under the brow
in a curved design that “coats every laser 3D haptic effect. bones. The packaging features a
lash in an instant,” according to the • The liquid eyeliner is housed coral color created with a laser-
company. The packaging features in the DefinitionLiner, which rendered haptic 3D effect.
a 360-degree wood optic achieved features a soft precision applicator • The collection’s skin care products
with laser technology. and packaging that can include include a mini dual-ended facial
• The travel-sized BrowPerformer embossed structures on the cap and brush made of 25% recycled
brush is made of the bio-based debossed patterns on the bottle. wheat straw, and an aloe vera
GreenLine fiber, consisting of 100% • The LipstickApplicator can be konjac sponge for massaging and
renewable raw material from the paired with a formula based on moisturizing the body.
castor oil plant. The tiny brush natural castor oil, natural beeswax • The makeup bag, comprising
and vitamin E. The design’s recycled plastic, is reportedly vegan
ergonomic shape reportedly and biodegradable and contains no
distributes product evenly to the PVC, azo colors or phthalates.
lips for streak-free results. The
packaging features a shimmering Blingy Brushes
hot foil printing in earthy shades Taiki, well known for its expanding
on the heavy-walled, four-edged range of mask technologies, has
bottle. The cap is decorated via introduced a line of decorative brushes

Asquan Group recently won the Skin Care Packaging


Technology category at Cosmopack 2019 with its
NFC Smart Packaging Technology, which can be
used for consumer engagement, product tracking
and brand protection. Capabilities include interac-
tive campaigns to share trend tips and tutorials,
refill offers, repurchase discounts and promotions
of other brand offerings. The packaging comprises
NFC tags that are inserted within packaging during
manufacturing. These packages can be scanned
with a consumer’s phone to provide information or a
brand protection notice. Taiki offers cosmetic brushes with unique decorative finishes.

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Schwan’s 3D printing technology allows it to offer endless design specifications
with low amounts of waste throughout the fast-prototyping process.

Schwan’s Jumbo Chopstick pencil features a kajal and eyeliner look in


a single design.

featuring handles that can be filled with glitter, pearl or


crystals, as well as molded, shaped, resin, lacquered,
anodized aluminum or wooden handle options. The designs
can include custom textures with metallic and glitter spray
and 360-degree labels. Ferrules can be decorated for an
additional design flair.

3D Design Innovation
Under the banner of its new motto—Tomorrow’s Beauty.
Today.—Schwan presented a range of innovations at
Cosmoprof Bologna that intersected technology, speed-
to-market, sustainability and customized solutions. 3D
printing is at the center of this revolution, offering a
new decorative process for customization for brands of
all sizes that provides fast prototyping, unlimited shape
and geometry specifications, short time-to-market, and
less waste production throughout the process. (Read the
Packaging Supplement on Page S2 of your digital edition
for more eco-friendly designs from Schwan.)

Cruelty-free Brush Innovation


Anisa, which recently opened a new 1,400-square-foot
showroom in Santa Monica, California, has unveiled a trio
of cruelty-free brush collections with unique designs for
optimal makeup application. The collections included the
QD Fiber range, a patent-pending design for concentrated
application of high-impact powder formulas. The brushes
include a four-sided fiber for enhanced pickup and
minimal product fallout/​dusting.
The company’s Diffusion Brush Collection comprises a
dual-fiber brush head with tips that are extended by 50%
for optimized pickup and delivery of a soft, lightweight,

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REIMAGINING PACKAGING DESIGN FOR BEAUTY

buildable finish. The collection is


inspired by the glassy skin and no
makeup makeup trends and pairs
well with liquid, cream and powder
formulas, according to the company.
The Feathering Brush Collection
includes a design with a laser-cut
ferrule for extra control for light
layering of powder formulas, creating a
soft-focus effect and sheer finish.
The company also showed off a new
trend collection of edgy designs, called
“Life of the Party.”
H
Anisa also recently unveiled its
c
XL Face Brush, comprising seven
oversized brushes that offer coverage
of a large surface area to offer a
diffused finish for the face and
décolleté. The Liquid Touch collection,
meanwhile, mimics fingertip
application with five densely packed,
angled brushes shaped by a 40-degree
laser-cut ferrule.

Anisa recently unveiled a range of cruelty-free brush designs, including on-trend decorative concepts.
Air-tight Design
Pictured are the Neo Chic (upper left) and Lava Lacquer (lower left) handle designs, and the QD Fiber Seacliff Beauty’s recent innovations
(top center), Liquid Touch (top right) and XL Face Brush (bottom right) collections. include the BeautiLock range of

During Luxe Pack/MakeUp in LA, Verescence presented a range of designs featuring luxury
and sustainable elements.
During Luxe Pack/MakeUp in LA, Samhwa presented an airtight stick
that mimicked the format of traditional stick deodorants, but which
can be used for sun and skin care applications.

Seacliff Beauty’s range of airtight packaging allows for less than 1% product weight loss in an
array of beauty products; pictured is the full collection and detail of the range’s jar design.

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airtight packaging that allows for
less than 1% product weight loss in
products such as gel liners or those
comprising encapsulated waters, which
often face challenges with product
loss and dry-out. The design can be
engineered for products as small as
eyeliners and lipliners, according to
the company, which offers turnkey
solutions. Brands can customize their
own looks around the core technology.

Pushing the Flexible


HCP presented a range of its stock packaging for color cosmetics, including customizable elements and trend
collections to offer design inspiration to beauty brands. Packaging Envelope
The Flexible Packaging Association
(FPA) has announced the first-place
winners of its FPA 2019 Student Flexible
Design Challenge, Maria Brownell and
Melea Burns of University of Wisconsin,
Stout. The students won for their
triangular facial mask/facial moisturizer
design, which contains a facial mask on
one side and a moisturizer on the other,
and which allows consumers to use the
products 3-6 times before discarding,
thereby reducing waste.

Clean Beauty Designs


The Flexible Packaging Association (FPA) awarded the first-place FPA 2019 Student Faber-Castell Cosmetics has
Flexible Design Challenge to Maria Brownell and Melea Burns of University of introduced the Pure Beauty and
Wisconsin, Stout, for their triangular facial mask/facial moisturizer design.
Pure2 Beauty, a combined range of
12 color cosmetic pencils “with high
performance and rich pigments,”
according to the company. These
designs are reportedly formulated
Faber-Castell Cosmetics’ Pure Beauty and Pure2 Beauty range includes a slim wooden without select controversial ingredients,
pencil lipliner in a shade called Cranberry & Coral, as well as a wooden jumbo pencil
including microplastics and silicones,
lipstick in satin and metallic finishes and shades such as Divine Red (pictured).
and are vegan and natural. n

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SKIN/SUN/ANTI-AGING

A new digital skin diagnostic tool from L’Oréal and


La Roche-Posay’s Toleriane Ultra Eye Cream for Modiface provides users with tailor-made diagnostics in
Sensitive Skin, Toleriane Ultra Night Face Moisturizer three steps: The user uploads a selfie; the user discovers
and Toleriane Ultra Intense Soothing Care Moisturizer their personalized skin aging matrix, skin strengths and
are formulated without ingredients that may cause skin priorities to act on based on an analysis of seven signs of
reactions and irritations, including fragrance, parabens aging; and the user receives a tailor-made product routine
and drying alcohol. The products are packaged in airtight to address specific skin priorities.
packaging to prevent product contamination.

The beaches of the Florida Keys will no longer allow the


use of sunscreens containing oxybenzone and octinoxate. Youth to the People’s Superberry Hydrate + Glow
According to the Miami Herald (www.miamiherald.com), Dream Mask is meant to hydrate, plump and brighten
the Key West, Florida, City Commission banned the sale of while the user sleeps. The vegan mask contains
sunscreens that contain these ingredients in the city limits. squalane, hyaluronic acid, glycerin, aloe, antioxidant-rich
The ban, which was instated to protect the only living coral superberries—maqui, goji, acai and prickly pear—and
reef in North America from alleged bleaching, DNA damage THD ascorbate, a form of vitamin C.
and death, will go into effect on January 1, 2021.

As part of the Clean at Sephora program,


Naturally Serious will use locally-sourced,
reusable, recyclable or compostable packaging
in 40 Sephora locations across the country. The
brand’s new additions will include recyclable
jars and tubes.

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Rodan + Fields has launched its Spotless and Unblemish
Regimens. The Spotless Regimen is a two-step skin care
system meant to target the entire acne cycle for teens and
young adults. The Unblemish Regimen is a four-step system
formulated to address the adult acne cycle while also fighting
visible signs of aging.

Skintelli, a beta-stage product from EpigenCare Inc.,


is a direct-to-consumer epigenetic test designed to
assess skin qualities. Analyzing a panel of epigenetic
marks, Skintelli profiles current skin quality and
changes over the time via repeatable tests. Consumers
are then matched with products best suited for the
current state of their skin.

Clarins selected the Texen Rose Factory to create the


packaging for its new My Clarins Line. The factory created
a collection of lids for the day care jars and sleep masks in
the range. The injected lid contains two parts that are put
together using inline assembly, which gives the illusion of a
single part.

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SKIN/SUN/ANTI-AGING

Non Gender Specific’s Everything Cleanser


was formulated without gender in mind. The
cleanser is meant to moisturize and provide
nutrients to the skin, all while unclogging
pores, removing makeup, brightening skin
and preventing acne.

BeautyStat has introduced its Universal


The anti-wrinkle products market is expected to reach C Skin Refiner. The crème/gel product
$12.8 billion by 2027, at a CAGR of 5.8%. Future Market is formulated with 20% pure vitamin C
Insights (www.futuremarketinsights.com) found that surging (L-ascorbic acid) and a patented encapsulated
retail availability of a wide range of anti-wrinkle products, delivery system. The product was created to
coupled with a dramatic rise in the number of brands smooth, hydrate, brighten, retexturize, even
providing diverse anti-aging products, is projected to play skin tone, and combat fine lines, wrinkles,
a significant role in this growth. dark/sun spots, redness and enlarged pores.

Amazon has introduced a range of 12 skin care products Thiotaurine (INCI: Thiotaurine), from Shanghai Huiwen Biotech
under its Belei brand, including Micellar Face Wipes, Hydrating Corp., creates a protective umbrella for skin microecology to reduce
Hyaluronic Acid Serum and Triple-Peptide Eye Cream. The “polluaging,” or effects of aging due to pollution. The ingredient can
products are cruelty-free and contain no parabens, phthalates, repair cell damage; inhibit haze-induced oxidation of skin; resist
sulfates or fragrance. The bottles are composed of PCR resin; inflammation; and enhance the skin’s barrier function.
the cartons are fully recyclable.

JD Jojoba Butter Vegan (INCI: Not Available) from Jojoba Desert


(A.C.S.) can enable silky textures in skin, lip, hair and sun care for vegan
consumers. The vegan butter contains a high concentration of jojoba oil,
is oil-miscible and is free of preservatives and coloring agents. According
to the company, consumers can enjoy a soft, silky feeling as well as
skin moisturi­zation, restoration and regeneration. In addition, jojoba
oil’s unique chemical structure and antioxidant content lend oxidative
stability, resulting in longer shelf life and resistance toward free radicals,
thus proving to be a natural solution for shelf-stability.

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GCI_full page ad.indd 1 4/15/19 5:46 PM
HAIR

Garnier has unveiled a new tagline: By Garnier, Naturally.


The copy is meant to reflect the brand’s ingredient-focused Definicire (INCI: Jojoba Esters (and) Helianthus Annuus
hair, color and skin care products, as well as its sustaina­bility (Sunflower) Seed Wax (and) Polyglycerin-3) from Gattefossé
initiatives, including a commitment to 100% post-consumer- is a natural functional ingredient based on function­alized
recycled (PCR) waste for shampoo, conditioner and leave-in jojoba and sunflower seed waxes. The ingredient is an active
conditioner bottles in its Fructis Sleek & Shine collection by texturizing agent that recreates the protective lipid layer of the
the end of 2019. hair and acts as a natural alternative to silicones.

As part of Kao’s renewed global


sustaina­bility strategy for greener
packaging, Guhl shampoo bottles
now consist of 50% recycled
polyethylene terephthalate (rPET).
The new packaging also saves more
than 520,000 liters of water and 180
metric tons of virgin PET by using rPET.
JD Beauty Co. has announced a merger with Goody
Additionally, Kao will save more than
Products. The former’s brands include WetBrush,
770 metric tons of CO2 annually.
Bio Ionic hair styling tools and Ouidad hair care.
The combined businesses will create a multi-brand,
diversified hair care, accessory, liquid and tool company.

At-home hair color range Josh Wood Colour has Helen of Troy Limited is exploring divestment of its
secured funding from Index Ventures. Partner Danny personal care business, a subset of its beauty segment.
Rimer will join the board of Josh Would Colour. Other Brands under Helen of Troy’s personal care umbrella
participants in the $6.5 million round included JamJar include Pert and Sure. Divesting would allow the
Investments and Venrex. company to focus its resources on leadership brands.

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MAKEUP

The much-anticipated debut of Glossier


Play, an offshoot of millennial-favorite Glossier,
introduced four color cosmetic products,
including Colorslide, “a technogel eye pencil”; Cherry Pick specializes in tracking engagement and “valuable expressions of
Vinylic Lip, “a high-shine lacquer”; Glitter intent to purchase beauty products” on social media. The company reportedly
Gelée, “a one-step glitter gel”; and Niteshine, tracked engagement such as “I Want This!” and “Need!” and compiled “The
“a highlighter concentrate.” The brand also
Cherry on Top Beauty Report” for February 2019.
launched Blade, an eye pencil sharpener, and
Among the report’s findings were the top claims, benefits and key ingredients
The Detailer, a silicone precision multitool.
currently attracting beauty lovers. The top color cosmetics claims, benefits and
ingredients for February 2019 are:

Blush Foundation
Claim: Paraben-free Claim: Paraben-free
Benefit: Hydrating Benefit: Long-wearing
Key ingredient: BHA Key ingredients: Vitamins
Bronzer Concealer
Claim: Cruelty-free Claim: Paraben-free
Benefit: Waterproof Benefit: Concealing
Key ingredient: Murumuru butter Key ingredient: Vitamins
Eyeshadow Lipstick
Claim: Cruelty-free Claim: Cruelty-free
Benefit: Long-wearing Benefit: Long-wearing
Key ingredient: Squalane Key ingredients: Peptides
Eyebrow Lip Liner
Claim: Clean Claim: Paraben-free
The debut of Fifth City, the exclusive beauty Benefit: Waterproof Benefit: Long-wearing
collection from Saks Off 5th, is part of a larger strategy
Key ingredient: Vitamins Key ingredient: Vitamins
to expand the discount retailer’s exclusive merchandise
assortment. Fifth City’s SKUs—ranging in price from
$4.99 to $60—include 35 products for face, lip and
eye makeup, brushes and accessories.

BASF’s Chione Electric Fuchsia SF90D (INCI: Not Available)


is a bold, metallic-like pink shade for use in vegan and clean
beauty. The pigment, meant for eyeshadow, eyeliner and lip
gloss, is buildable, has a high chroma and is carmine-free.
Formulators can reportedly combine it with traditional cosmetic
colorants and effect pigments.

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BATH/BODY/GROOMING/FRAGRANCE

Nicki Minaj’s fragrance, Queen,


features top notes of Asian pear,
bergamot; heart notes of heliotrope;
and base notes of Tonka bean,
praline, musk and woods. The
limited-edition fragrance is currently
exclusive to the rapper’s website
and comes in a 100 ml spray.

Founded by Kristen Bell and Dax Shepard, Hello Bello offers


consumers plant-derived baby products ranging in price from
$1.88 to $23.94, with the majority under $8. Products include
diapers, wipes, shampoo and body wash, bubble bath, baby
lotion, diaper rash cream, hand sanitizer, mineral sunscreen,
bug spray and laundry detergent.

Silgan Dispensing’s turnkey


service, XpresService, is meant
to quickly produce new launches
and replenishment orders for
fragrance and skin care customers.
Additionally, the company’s PCR
packaging solutions include the
SD20C dispensing pump, meant Nest Fragrance has opened its first retail venture at 232
for liquid soap, lotions, soaps, Elizabeth Street in Lower Manhattan. The store offers more
shampoos, etc., and Mark VII Max, than 215 of the brand’s products and will provide limited-
a fine-mist sprayer. edition and specialty products throughout the year, candle
accessories, custom-made gift sets and an exclusive New York
City concierge delivery service.

Maison Margiela’s Replica


fragrance, Under The Lemon Trees,
features top notes of a lime accord,
petitgrain and cardamom; heart
notes of coriander, mate absolute
and tea leaves; and base notes of
cedarwood, cistus absolute and
Fragrance Shop’ Sniffbar allows U.K. consumers to white musks. The fragrance is
consult an expert on fragrance choices while shopping. currently available at Sephora in
Once a consumer has picked a scent, they will receive 10 ml and 100 ml bottles.
a sample at checkout and a full bottle will then be
shipped to the desired location.

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In partnership with Luigi Bormioli, Coverpla’s Ecoline range
CareMag D (INCI: Not Available) from Clariant and ICL-Specialty is made up of two lightweight glass bottles—50 ml and 100
Minerals is a new functional active ingredient based on marine salts ml—as well as two lightweight glass jars—30 ml and 50 ml.
from the Dead Sea to allow aluminum-free claims while curbing body When compared to plastic, blown or pressed glass, the range
odor, even for sensitive skin. The ingredient has a crystalline structure reduces the weight of glass by 40% and reduces carbon
in order to absorb excess sweat and sebum, thus preventing them dioxide emissions across the supply chain by 60%.
from transforming to malodorous substances.

Skin689’s range of skin firming cosmeceu­ticals is meant to


target the skin on arms, neck and décolleté, buttocks and legs.
The company’s proprietary patented ingredients stem from
medical research and target collagen fibers as a root cause.
Skin689 claims its products offer structural firming effects with
continuously increasing results. The Blackout mask from Two L(I)PS is a post-hair-removal
treatment “to detox, soothe, brighten and hydrate the vulva.”
The mask comes with a four-step ritual to support lymphatic
drainage in addition to the skin soothing/​moisturizing activity.
Key ingredients include activated binchotan charcoal, Centella
asiatica and ylang ylang.

Gillette and Twitch, a community for multiplayer entertai­nment,


have announced the “Gillette Gaming Alliance,” which will support
the “Bits for Blades” promotion. The partnership will allow fans to Bobbi Brown’s Evolution_​18 range will be available at
earn Twitch Bits, virtual good users can send in chat to support 1,5000 Walmart locations and on Walmart.​com. Including
streamers financially, by buying select Gillette products displayed Beauty Debloat Tea, Beauty Probiotic and Beauty Collagen
and discussed by Alliance team members. Powder, prices of the 10 products range from $10-$20.

www.gcimagazine.com Bath/Body/Grooming/Fragrance  61

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PRODUCTS and SERVICES showcase

CONTRACT MANUFACTURING PACKAGING

PRIVATE LABEL

To reserve space
FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA in this section, contact
facebook.com/gcimagazine Global Cosmetic Industry
Kim Jednachowski
kjednachowski@allured.com
@globalcosmeticindustry @GCI_Magazine 1-630-344-6054

62   Products and Services Showcase    Global Cosmetic Industry | May 2019

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AD INDEX
The Advertiser Index is provided as an additional service for readers to obtain information on companies and their products. The publisher assumes no liability for omissions or errors.

PAGE ADVERTISER PHONE WEB SITE


35 ADF & PCD www.adfpcdnewyork.com
17 Anomatic Corp. 1-740-522-2203 www.anomatic.com
C3 Baralan USA 1-718-849-1600 www.baralanusa.com
64 Beauty Accelerate 1-630-653-2155 www.beautyaccelerate.com
1 Cosmetic Group USA, Inc. 1-818-767-2889 www.cosmeticgroupusa.com
C2 Cosmopak USA/Cosmopak Europe 1-516-767-9119 www.cosmopak.com
57 East Hill Industries, Inc. 1-972-367-6060 www.packagingcosmetics.com
5 Grant Industries 1-201-791-8700 www.grantinc.com
31 HCP Packaging 1-203- 924-2708 www.hcpackaging.com
13 HCT Packaging 1-310-260-7680 www.hctpackaging.com
23 ICL, Innovative Cosmetic Labs 1-866-950-1425 www.iclpl.com
21 ICSC - International Cosmetic Science Centre (45) 8622-9986 www.icsc.dk
44 Inoac Packaging Group, Inc. 1-502-348-5159 www.inoacusa.com
C4 JSN Packaging Products, Inc. 1-949-458-0050 www.jsn.com
63 Luxe Pack NY 1-212-213-4353 www.luxepack.com
16 Marchesini Group USA 1-973-575-7445 http://www.marchesini.com
53 McKernan Packaging Clearing House 1-775-356-6111 www.mckernan.com
3 Queens Packaging Co., Ltd 1-714-787-8301 www.queenspack.com
39 Robertet SA 1-201-337-7100 www.robertet.com
41 Spectra Colors Corp. 1-201-997-0606 www.spectracolors.com
55 Sun Deep Cosmetics, Inc. 1-800-985-2228 www.sundeepinc.com
45 Thai Ho Group, Inc. 86-21-67689911 www.thaiho.com
51 Verescence 1-212-753-4200 www.verescence.com
7 YonWoo/PKG 1-631-981-8701 www.pkggroup.com

64   Ad Index   Global Cosmetic Industry | May 2019

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GCI_full page ad.indd 1 4/15/19 5:32 PM
AMERICAN OWNED.
AMERICAN MADE.

THIS PACKAGE IS A
BEAUTIFUL EXAMPLE
OF COMBINING
• 8-Color offset printing
• Multi-color silk screen
• Hot stamp foil application
• Pressure sensitive labeling
• Sustainable package options
• Proudly made in the USA!

LEARN MORE AT WWW.JSN.COM | 949 458 0050


9700 Jeronimo Road, Irvine, CA 92618 • nagels@jsn.com
Family owned for over 35 years

GCI_full page ad.indd 1 2/13/19 1:12 PM


S1

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BEAUTY’S SUSTAINABLE
PACKAGING REVOLUTION
How brands and suppliers are innovating to limit or even eliminate waste.

Brands are taking sustainable packaging concepts to a new level: HiBar leverages secondary packaging but uses no single-use plastic
packaging for its range of solid hair care.

W
hile sustainable “Consumers today are paying a supply chain for a true zero-waste
packaging lot more attention to their impact mentality.”
has been on on the planet, and climate change
the beauty calls are more drastic than ever What the Brands Are Saying
beforea,” said Andrew McDougall,
industry’s Hèrmes, which has announced
associate director, Mintel, beauty
radar for years, China’s refusal, the forthcoming launch of skin
and personal care, during the
in 2018, to any longer accept care and cosmetic products by
release of the firm’s 2019 beauty
certain types of “foreign 2020, will be featuring plastic-free
trend report. “A bigger-picture
packaging to limit waste.
garbage,” including several focus is needed throughout the
Meanwhile, Guhl, a Kao-owned
types of plastic and paper, has beauty and personal care industry
hair care brand available in
put all industries on notice: Germany, Austria, Switzerland
sustainability is not only a trend and the Netherlands, has launched
a
www.mintel.com/press-centre/beauty-
or a consumer-engagement and-personal-care/mintel-announces- new sustainable packaging.
strategy; it’s a key survival sub-zero-waste-as-2019s-global-beauty- Guhl’s shampoo bottles now
mechanism. and-personal-care-trend reportedly consist of 50% recycled

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polyethylene terephthalate (rPET).
This allows Kao to save more than
770 metric tons of CO2 annually. A bigger-picture focus is
The conditioner bottles are made
of 100% polypropylene (PP) and
needed throughout the
are fully recyclable. The new
packaging also saves more than
beauty and personal care
520,000 liters of water and 180
metric tons of virgin PET by using
industry supply chain for a
rPET, the company stated. Guhl
is Kao’s first brand in Europe
true zero-waste mentality.
to implement the company’s
renewed global sustainability
strategy for greener packaging. 40 Sephora doors across the further enhance our products to
“We wanted to use the country, as part of the Clean at ensure they are really making a
highest possible percentage of Sephora program. difference in sustainable beauty
rPET without having to accept Naturally Serious’ current and packaging.”
inclusions or color distortions, packaging comprises eco- Garnier has unveiled a
which are otherwise common friendly cartons derived from a commitment to use 100% post-
when using rPET,” said Daniel responsibly managed sustainable consumer recycled (PCR) waste
Nebe, team leader packaging forest and created with wind for shampoo, conditioner and
development at Kao EURL. power in a carbon-neutral facility, leave-in condition bottles in its
“Regarding the conditioner the brand explained. The new Fructis Sleek & Shine collection
bottle, we have made sure that additions will include recyclable by the end of 2019. (The range is
all packaging components are jars and tubes. produced in a zero-waste facility;
made from one material and “We’ve continued to learn so current packaging contains 50%
that they can be 100% recycled much from our consumers in PCR waste.)
back into the material flow and the few, short months since we Meanwhile, TerraCycle has
thus reused instead of being launched,” said Rochelle Jacobs, expanded its reach into the
thermally recycled.” the brand’s managing director. beauty/personal care space with
Clean skin care brand “Not only do they care about its partnership with Weleda’s
Naturally Serious has announced what they’re putting on their Skin Food line of products.
its plans to launch locally skin, but also how their products The Weleda Recycling Program
sourced, reusable, recyclable are impacting the earth—we do allows consumers to send in their
or compostable packaging in too. As such, we are so excited to empty Skin Food packaging to
be recycled for free. Participants
sign up on the TerraCycle
program page and mail in their
packaging waste using a prepaid
shipping label.
Collected packaging is cleaned
and melted into hard plastic
that can be remolded into new
recycled products. Collectors can
earn $1 per pound of waste sent
to TerraCycle, to be donated to a
non-profit, school or charitable
organization of their choosing.
Similarly, Gillette has
partnered with TerraCycle
to render all its brands of
disposable razors, replaceable-
blade cartridge units and razor
Hèrmes, which has announced the forthcoming launch of skin care and cosmetic plastic packaging recyclable—a
products by next year, will be featuring plastic-free packaging to limit waste. move the partners are touting

9 www.gcimagazine.com Packaging Showcase  S3

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BEAUTY’S SUSTAINABLE PACKAGING REVOLUTION

as a first for the United States.


Consumers may recycle razors
in three ways: by signing into the
TerraCycle system and returning
their waste by mail for recycling,
by dropping off used products
at select public drop-off points
such as businesses, gyms and
colleges, or, for Gillette On
Demand customers, repackage
used products in an On Demand
shipping box and return it for
recycling using a self-funded
HCT’s patent-pending PET lipstick tube. HCT has engineered a recyclable PET compact.
TerraCycle tracking label. The
ultimate goal of each program
is to make recycling as easy as
possible for consumers.
Finally, on the zero-waste
horizon, HiBar is launching Schwan’s new Jumbo Chopstick.
salon-quality shampoo and
conditioner bars created with no
plastic or sulfates, eliminating
the need for single-use plastic Schwan’s Shifted Lead Next Generation pencil.
packaging, according to the
brand. The products are available
in clarifying, moisturizing and packaging that leverages recycled Boosting Recyclability
volumizing formulas that have material and reduces overall HCT has engineered a recyclable
been designed to stand up in the plastic usage. According to the PET compact and patent-pending
shower, shed moisture and offer company, the Eco Tube is a one- PET lipstick tube. The lipstick
an ergonomic experience and piece tube that integrates the tube contains none of the mixed-
ease of application. head and cap into one seamless material elements found in a
package. The process reportedly conventional tube, according to
Reducing Use of Resources reduces the total amount of plastic HCT, including metal weight and
Unique Distinctions Inc. required. The tube’s sidewall is aluminum shell. The PET tube can
has launched its Eco Series, available with 60% PCR resin. be manufactured with 100% PCR
comprising eco-friendly tubes Additionally, customers can select material; PCR compacts are also
for beauty and personal care a disc cap or a flip top. being developed by the firm.

Unique Distinctions Inc. has launched its Eco Series, comprising Schwan Cosmetics is leveraging 3D printing to reduce waste by
eco-friendly tubes for beauty and personal care packaging that allowing for smaller production runs.
leverages recycled material and reduces overall plastic usage.

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Eco-friendly Prototyping
Schwan Cosmetics is leveraging
3D printing to reduce waste by
Silgan Dispensing has
allowing for smaller production
announced the launch
runs. At the same time, the of its turnkey service,
technology allows the firm to XpresService, and the
deliver smaller production runs, addition of post-consumer-
rapid prototyping for speed to recycled (PCR) plastic
market, design flexibility for products to its European
and North American RPC Bramlage has introduced its Slidissme
customers and personalized
markets. jar as a hygienic packaging solution for
products. 3D printing makes
clean beauty products
design experimentation far
simpler, while offering solutions
that are easily scaled up. Biodegradable Beauty tooling or production equipment.
Sustainability was front-and- The tubes are fully recyclable.
Sustainable Legacy center at this year’s Luxe Pack/
Innovation MakeUp in LA show, including PCR & Turnkey
Schwan Cosmetics has been a new range from WWP. The Silgan Dispensing has
manufacturing wooden cosmetics company highlighted natural, announced the launch of its
pencils since 1927. The company organic and biodegradable turnkey service, XpresService,
has touted the sustainability of packaging components made and the addition of PCR plastic
such products while introducing from bamboo, sugarcane, products to its European and
new innovations including the rice husks, coconut shells and North American markets.
Shifted Lead Next Generation green tea. These offer reduced XpresService serves fragrance
and the Jumbo Chopstick, carbon emissions compared to and skin care customers and
which “combine sustainability, conventional packaging, according is designed to offer speed and
performance and design in to the company, and feature no flexibility in new launches,
one product,” according to the plastic or heavy metal reactions, while shortening lead times for
company. Shifted Lead Next while still meeting SGS standards. replenishment orders. As for the
Generation features a unique The company also offers bio- PCR packaging solutions, Silgan
design that offers a wide range resin tubes made from sugarcane Dispensing will offer the SD20C
of looks. Meanwhile, the Jumbo produced sustainably in Brazil. dispensing pump, meant for liquid
Chopstick offers a modern The tube head, sleeve and cap are soap, lotions, soaps, shampoos,
flourish for kajal/kohl and all made from plant-based PE and etc., and Mark VII Max, a fine-
eyeliner products. require no changes to conventional mist sprayer.

An assortment of sustainable cosmetic packaging from WWP. Cosmopak’s concepts were designed for direct-to-consumer brands
and influencer collaborations directed at Gen Z consumers, featuring
sustainable and wellness-oriented designs and formulations.

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BEAUTY’S SUSTAINABLE PACKAGING REVOLUTION

Sustainable Clean Beauty


Packaging
RPC Bramlage has introduced
its Slidissme jar as a hygienic
packaging solution for clean
beauty products. According to
the company, Slidissme’s airless
properties are meant to protect
products formulated without
parabens, colorants, mineral
oils and fragrance from external
contaminants, including air and For its work with YSL, Albéa provided the refillable packaging for the Or Rouge
skin care range.
UV rays. The user can dispense
the product with a swipe of the
index finger, ensuring fingers • Turnkey makeup and skin glass packaging. The Ecoline range
do not come in contact with the care concepts featuring full- is made up of two lightweight glass
product in the jar. spectrum CBD and hemp seed bottles—50 ml and 100 ml—as well
Additionally, the jar was oil for unique textures. as two lightweight glass jars—30
designed to be lighter and more • Turnkey lip formulas ml and 50 ml. Utilizing the CV15
compact than traditional jars. comprising geodes for an neck, the jars are compatible with
The Slidissime quartz version has energy lift. The formulas were a standard screw pump solution.
earned Ecocert certification for “its presented in PCR packaging to This gives brands the ability to
strong environmental credentials,” add a sustainable dimension to perform their own filling and
the company explained. the concepts. separate the individual parts of the
• Turnkey formulations created jar for recycling.
Packaging for Mindful without ingredients typically Coverpla has also designed a
Brands flagged on no-no lists. The trim for the standard pump that
ingredients comprised can be matched with any of the
Cosmopak recently presented
ethically and sustainably caps in its catalog. The company
hemp-inspired, clean beauty and
sourced materials. also added its own design to the
crystal-infused product concepts
line with the flask-shaped Verdi
during the MakeUp in LA show
in Santa Monica. The concepts Reducing Materials and model. According to Coverpla, the
were designed for direct-to- Emissions range allows for a 40% reduction
in the weight of glass used.
consumer brands and influencer In partnership with Luigi
Additionally, the range allows for
collabor­ations directed at Gen Z Bormioli, Coverpla has created
a 60% reduction in carbon dioxide
consumers and included: a new collection of eco-designed
emissions across the supply chain,
when compared with plastic or
blown or pressed glass.

Refillable Luxury
For its work with YSL, Albéa
provided the refillable packaging
for the Or Rouge skin care range.
The removable and replaceable
refill is housed inside the case of
the Or Rouge La Crème Riche
(50 ml) and Red Gold La Crème
Fine (50 ml). The textured cap
is brushed with gold finish and
showcases the YSL logo embossed
at the top. The pack received a 2019
In partnership with Luigi Bormioli, Coverpla has created a new PCD Paris Award in the Skin Care
collection of eco-designed glass packaging. Premium-Refillable category. n

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New Packaging Innovations

Travel-sized Packaging Flexible Metallization and Enahnced


McKernan Packaging Clearing House Deco Effects
www.mckernan.com Anomatic Corporation
McKernan offers brands PET and HDPE bottles, including www.anomatic.com
sizes under 3.4 ounces, in a variety of colors and styles. Anomatic’s flexible metallization for hinge closures
McKernan also stocks treatment pumps, CT closures, can reportedly withstand over 150 flips without
fine mist sprayers, lotion pumps and dispensing caps to delaminating or degrading the metallic finish along
complement travel-sized packaging. the hinge. Additionally, Anomatic has introduced new
glitter and confetti effects to their finishes.

Radii Rectangular Midi Palette


HCP Packaging
www.hcpackaging.com
Bulgari Man Wood
Verescence
Radii Rectangular Midi Palette from HCP Packaging is www.verescence.com
a versatile stock pack, displayed with designs in blue
hues. The cover offers the opportunity for customization Bulgari has chosen Verre Infini Neo by Verescence for
with decorative top-plates including textile, dome or the new Bulgari Man Wood Essence. Verre Infini Neo is
HCP’s patented ‘Glitter Storm’ decoration. Available with the first premium and completely clear recycled glass
a 6 well insert, the palette is suitable for eye, lip, brow composed from a total of 90% recycled materials,
and multi-products. according to Verescence.

9 www.gcimagazine.com Packaging Showcase  S7

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NEW PACKAGING INNOVATIONS

East Hill Industries, LLC


Liquid Foundation Bottle
www.packagingcosmetics.com
East Hill Industries’ Liquid Foundation Bottle features a pump system
that can dose high-viscosity bulk such as liquid foundation. The
bottle is suitable for products in which the viscosity changes over Customized Packaging
time, including thick formulas. The in-built technology prevents the Queens Packaging Co., Ltd
formula from coming into contact with metal components, thus www.queenspack.com
preventing any oxidation or alteration.
Queens Packaging’s design team works with brands to offer
tailor-made customizations to meet specific needs and require-
ments. The company aims to provide a one-stop service from
design, tooling and production.

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