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A P P L I C AT I O N S A N D I M P L E M E N TAT I O N

Enhancing the Adoption of Life Cycle


Assessment by Small and Medium
Enterprises Grouped in an Industrial
Cluster
A Case Study of the Tanning Cluster in Tuscany (Italy)
Tiberio Daddi, Benedetta Nucci, Fabio Iraldo, and Francesco Testa

Keywords:
Summary
industrial cluster
industrial ecology Greenhouse gas emissions from small and medium enterprises (SMEs) account for 70%
life cycle assessment (LCA) of the industrial pollution in the European Union. Owing to limited economic and human
small and medium enterprises (SMEs) resources, only a few SMEs start procedures to evaluate the environmental impact of
tannery sector processes and products through life cycle assessment (LCA). In this work, a cluster life cycle
assessment (Cluster-LCA) is proposed as an instrument for the diffusion and realization of
LCA analysis in clustered SMEs. This methodology is illustrated with a case study in the
tanning cluster in Tuscany. The different characteristics of the methodology are analyzed by
identifying the intrinsic strengths, weaknesses, opportunities, and threats. The application of
this methodology in a particular cluster is then discussed in order to gather some helpful
insight for the application of this methodology in different clusters.

Introduction the European Commission has focused on promoting life cy-


cle assessment (LCA) and life cycle thinking (LCT) in general
Sustainability is increasingly becoming part of the everyday (European Commission 2003; European Commission 2014b).
activities of firms and is seen as an important source of compet- However, the spread of these instruments still remains the do-
itive advantage. This is recognized as more common for big and main of the big firms. This highlights the barriers that SMEs
multinational firms, rather than small and medium enterprises face when dealing with these kinds of instruments.
(SMEs) (Kurczewski 2014). However, for the European Union The aim of this work is thus to illustrate how the cluster
(EU), it has been estimated that approximately 99% of the structure can help in the diffusion of voluntary, innovative,
companies are SMEs that employ 70% of the European work- and complex instruments for the evaluation of environmental
force and contribute 60% of the overall turnover (European impacts of products among SMEs, and to investigate which
Commission 2014a). characteristics a cluster should have in order to successfully im-
European SMEs contribute from 60% to 70% of the total en- plement these kinds of instruments and, particularly, the LCA.
vironmental impact in the EU (European Commission 2010); The article describes the use, implementation, and impact
thus, much effort has been made to involve SMEs in the re- of a territorial approach for an LCA in an industrial cluster
duction of their environmental impact and in exploiting their (hereafter, Cluster-LCA) in a case study of the tanning cluster
potential for labor creation. To promote such involvement, in Santa Croce sull’Arno, Italy.

Address correspondence to: Tiberio Daddi, Sant’Anna School of Advanced Studies–Institute of Management, Piazza Martiri della Libertà, 33, 56127 Pisa, Italy. Email:
tiberio.daddi@sssup.it; Web: www.sum.sssup.it

© 2015 by Yale University


DOI: 10.1111/jiec.12379 Editor managing review: Miguel Brandão

Volume 20, Number 5

www.wileyonlinelibrary.com/journal/jie Journal of Industrial Ecology 1199


A P P L I C AT I O N S A N D I M P L E M E N TAT I O N

This study merges two different lines of research that are thought of integrating them into SMEs (Le Pochat et al., 2007)
discussed in the first section: industrial clusters and LCA, in or of meeting their requirements and needs (Moss et al. 2008).
particular, on the tools and methods able to facilitate the adop- The academic world tends to focus on three different aspects
tion of LCA and related methods by SMEs. Attempts are made regarding the adoption of LCT in SMEs:
to link the two streams of research, underlining how the first can
be fruitful in the diffusion of the second among SMEs. In the
subsequent sections, we describe the case study of Santa Croce - Convincing SMEs to adopt LCT or environmental best
sull’Arno, where the approach outlined through the literature practices
review is applied in practice. In the case study, a participatory - Developing simplified tools (particularly Web based) for
and collective approach is implemented in order to gather data the creation of a simplified LCA or carbon footprint
and information for the LCA from the tanneries. In addition, (Naldesi et al. 2004; Sherry et al. 2012).
some information on the cluster and a discussion on the man- - Developing procedures and guidelines specifically for
agerial, environmental, and policy implications arising from SMEs (Zackrisson et al. 2008; Naldesi et al. 2004; Le
this case study are given. In order to clearly explain every facet Pochat et al. 2007)
of the suggested tool and of the case study, a SWOT analysis
was performed and discussed. According to respondents in a survey performed by Pam-
minger (2011), the main drivers for implementing LCT are
demand by customers and legislation, which is confirmed by
Life Cycle Assessment and Small and Zackrisson and colleagues (2008). Moss and colleagues (2008)
Medium Enterprises: The Odd Couple? suggest that one method for increasing the interest of SMEs in
the environment is to stress the financial advantages resulting
In the last few years, LCA has been used to assess the poten- from the assessment and the possible improvement in their mar-
tial environmental impact of products, services, and organiza- keting potential. In Le Pochat and colleagues (2007), the LCA
tions (Baumann and Tillman 2004). As defined by the Interna- is described as difficult to use in a business, time-consuming,
tional Organization for Standardization (ISO) standard (UNI and complex to manage, whereas a simplified LCA is seen as
2006a, 2006b), an LCA is used to assess the potential envi- more user-friendly but less accurate. However, both are expert
ronmental impacts and resources used throughout a product’s tools and SMEs would have to pay for an expert’s services and
life cycle, that is, from the acquisition of raw material, through invest in the software.
production and use phases, to waste management. The results One way to overcome these barriers is the joint action of
of LCA have then been used for eco-design purposes (González- more SMEs in the same cluster or supply chain, who can com-
Garcı́a et al. 2011; Bhander et al. 2003), process analyses and bine their efforts, resources, knowledge, and data in order to cre-
improvements (Niederl-Schmidinger and Narodoslawsky 2008; ate a scientifically sound LCA. This approach was proposed by
Jacquemin et al. 2012), policy design and evaluation (Curran the United Nations Envrionment Programme (UNEP) (2005),
1997), marketing (Iraldo et al. 2013), and for the management which suggested that actions should be taken by “a branch of
of the supply chain (Srivastava 2007). firms,” and Sala and Castellani (2009), who presented a case
Despite these important studies in the field of LCA, there are study involving a consortium of enterprises in the furniture
only a few works in the literature that deal with the adoption supply chain. The outcomes of their case study highlighted the
of LCA, or more generally LCT, in SMEs. importance of the wider involvement of supply chain and stake-
Currently, most of the work conducted on SMEs and en- holders, and that the role of a consortium of firms is crucial in
vironmental issues focuses on the obstacles and barriers these promoting and disseminating best practices among firms.
firms face in adopting environmental best practices (Hillary A similar concept was also suggested by Revell and Ruther-
2001). As summarized by Revell and Rutherfoord (2003), an foord (2003), who highlighted the possible role of trade asso-
important barrier that SMEs face is the lack of engagement with ciations, which are seen as the primary agent for developing
environmental issues among owner-manager, owing to: a belief and implementing voluntary “sectoral sustainability strategies.”
that the environmental “footprint” of SMEs is negligible; a lack The “SMEs and the environment in the European Union” re-
of expertise and understanding in tackling of environmental port confirmed that a “strong support is required from sector
issues; a low level of compliance as a result of a lack of aware- organizations” (European Commission 2010, 15).
ness of environmental regulations; and a low level of uptake of Such strong support is especially important when talking
environmental management system as a result of a lack of time, about industrial clusters, that is, geographical concentrations
money, and technical knowledge. of interconnected companies and institutions in a particular
According to Pamminger (2011), there are few differences field (Porter 1998). An industrial cluster has long been seen
among sectors given that most SMEs have a relatively low as a competitive advantage for the SMEs involved. Several
knowledge of environmental assessments or LCA and also a studies have underlined the importance of collective initiatives
lack of experience with assessment tools. boosted by local institutions. Local associations represent the
Beyond a lack of environmental culture, the problem stems collective interest and, together with local or regional govern-
from the eco-design tools that have been designed without any ments, promote joint actions among firms by providing highly

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A P P L I C AT I O N S A N D I M P L E M E N TAT I O N

specialized services and also a social dimension (among others, Describing a Swedish project cofunded by EU Structural
Nadvi [1999]). Funds involving 30 companies, Zobel (2007) describes how
It has been shown that the joint action of many SMEs coor- EMS can be promoted by drafting joint EMS documentation,
dinated by local associations can obtain successful results in the as well as setting up extensive joint training initiatives, and
export of goods (Mesquita and Lazzarini 2010), in the building joint internal and third-party audits. Other research in this
of collective facilities (Ferrer et al. 2012), and in the adoption field has focused on the impact of the cluster approach on the
of environmental management schemes (Daddi et al. 2010). competitiveness of the industrial districts (Daddi et al. 2012),
This work therefore investigated how the joint action of application of the approach in other productive contexts such
local institutions and firms can be successful in the diffusion of as the tourist sector (Battaglia et al. 2012), and spread in the
LCA thanks to the creation of an average LCA of the main cluster of corporate social responsibility tools such as the certifi-
products of the industrial cluster. cation SA8000 (Battaglia et al. 2010). The cluster approach to
In addition to the studies already cited, practical sectorial ex- diffusion EMSs has also been adopted in non-EU countries, for
periences or average LCA of the typical product can be found example, the Regional Environmental Management Systems
in the International Environmental Product Declaration (EPD) (REMS) applied in the United States (Welford 2004).
System. The latter is a program for type III environmental dec- Similarly to the EMAS cluster approach, the firms that de-
larations managed by the Swedish Environmental Management cide to share the same practical path for the creation of an LCA
Council, which, answering the needs of the industry, recently can be characterized by different factors, for example, they:
introduced the concept of sector EPD in its General Programme
Instructions (EPD 2013), also specifying the rules for the cre-
ation and certification of this particular type of LCA. In the - work in the same supply chain, in the production of the
International EPD system, several average or sectorial LCAs same product
have been registered and are reported in table 1. - involve the same upstream phases of a certain production
In the literature, there are examples of average or sectorial chain, producing semifinished products or intermediate
LCAs. Iraldo and colleagues (2013) report the average LCA products that would be used by a small group of firms (or
of olive oil used in a green marketing strategy, and Van der at least only one firm)
Harst and Potting (2014) present an average LCA of disposable - independently use similar processes for the production
polystyrene beverage cups. of similar finished products, and, in the case of similar
finished products, are in the same geographical area (case
of “typical product”)
Life Cycle Assessment Studies for - work in a homogeneous productive area, characterized
Clusters of Enterprises: The Cluster Life by several similar products linked to traditional manufac-
Cycle Assessment turing that is promoted as a guarantee of quality. In this
Some of the most important practical barriers encountered case, there is a mixture of relationships already described:
by SMEs in the creation of an LCA can be overcome using competition, supply chain, collaboration, and workload
a cooperative approach based on developing common instru- sharing based on “co-opetition” (i.e., cooperative compe-
ments and exploiting synergies among firms. We coined the tition).
term Cluster-LCA in order to differentiate this kind of cooper-
ative LCA from the LCA for an individual firm. The Cluster- When one of the above four factors is operative, it is possible
LCA is based on the possibility that some factors that are com- to consider the marketable product produced by the group of
mon to a particular group of firms enable a “collective” LCA firms as sufficiently homogeneous for the synergic application of
study to be created, from which the firms can later draw different the LCA method and the creation of a “shared” LCA. In order
benefits. for Cluster-LCA to be an advantage, the relationships between
At the European level, clusters were officially recognized by the firms, and with other institutions, should be studied and in
the Final Report prepared by the European Commission Expert some way used in the LCA study. The structure of the cluster, in
Group on Enterprise Clusters and Networks. Previous schol- terms of the typology of firms it is composed of, and the nature
ars have investigated the possibilities of creating synergies at and kind of relationship between the different actors within the
the cluster level to facilitate the adoption of environmental cluster provide useful information.
management instruments. There have been various studies re- The Cluster-LCA can be also seen as an expression of life
lated to the EMAS (Eco Management and Audit Scheme) clus- cycle management (LCM) practices, where the main objective
ter approach or other approaches used to facilitate the spread of LCM can be defined as “putting LCA and LCT into practical
of Environmental Management Systems (EMS) among tenant application and seeing the results accepted by the different
companies, such as Tessitore and colleagues (2014), Ammen- affected stakeholders” (Fullana-i-Palmer et al. 2011, 459). Also
berg and colleagues (1999), Halila (2007), and Zobel (2007). In in the application of Cluster-LCA, the main principles of LCM
almost all the cases, the environmental and economic benefits should be considered, such as: the search for an agreement
for firms have been registered and synergies at the local level among the stakeholders, consensus on the scope of the work,
have been activated. and the calibration of the workload according to the scope.

Daddi et al., Enhancing the Adoption of LCA by SMEs in clusters 1201


1202
R
Table 1 Summary of the average or sectorial EPDs certified in the EPD System

European European Cement Concrete


Trentino Coop galvanic waterproofing Buzzi Buzzi

Journal of Industrial Ecology


Information Adige Alto apples Greek oil Puglia oil Greek kiwis mineral water industry bitumen industry Unicem Unical

Sector Agri-food Agricultural and Agricultural and food Agricultural and Beverages Galvanic Bitumen Cement Concrete
A P P L I C AT I O N S A N D I M P L E M E N TAT I O N

food (agroindustrial) food


(agroindustrial) (agroindustrial)
Type of Typical product, Typical product, Typical product, Group of Average Sectoral EPD Sectoral EPD Average Average
application territorial group of farmers territorial cluster companies, product product product
cluster (small group of territorial cluster
olive growers)
Location Italy Greece Italy Greece Italy Europe Europe Italy Italy
Type of Apple growers Olive growers and Olive farms Kiwi growers Supermarkets
Galvanic Bitumen Cement Concrete
enterprises oil producers companies producers producers producers
Number of 4 organizations 68 Greek olive 63 farms located in 99 growers from 1 chain of 46 located in 42 located in 13 Buzzi group 1 plant that
enterprises with 13,250 growers from Puglia that supply Pieria Prefecture supermarkets the EU European plants, produces
producers The Peloponnese two cooperatives located in the (5 water countries located in 5 kinds of
and Crete equipped with a mill Municipal springs) different concretes
for pressing olives department Italian
of Karitsa regions
Involved actors Assomela, Farmers’ group and Farms and two Producers’ COOP Italia European Bitumen Water- Buzzi Group Buzzi Group
organizations union of cooperatives: 63 organization and 5 Association proofing plants plants
of producers, cooperatives olive farms of the consisting of producers of of Galvanic Association
cooperatives OASI/ASSOPROLI 99 growers spring water Companies and the 42
BARI and 46 associated
companies enterprises
Note: EPD = International Environmental Product Declaration System EU = European Union.
A P P L I C AT I O N S A N D I M P L E M E N TAT I O N

Case Study and Data Sources and “Consorzio Conciatori di Ponte a Egola,” which includes
around 70 tanneries mainly specialized in the production of
Because it is interesting to understand which mechanisms
vegetable tanned leather and leather for shoe soles.
succeed in getting firms onboard, and how a proactive response
The local associations provide highly specialized technical
can be stimulated by the firms themselves, the case study (Yin
support on issues related to the environment, safety, financial,
2009) was chosen as the research method. This enables the
education, research, and others. Local associations also support
dynamics within the cluster and the individual firms to be ex-
export activities, promoting and coordinating the participation
amined, which is important when dealing with environmental
of the cluster at international events.
aspects.
Regarding environmental issues, with the support of the
The main goals of this study are to:
local associations, the tanneries have dealt with:
r
r
create an average LCA for the main products of the cluster
r Wastewater treatment plants
increase the awareness of SMEs and trade associations
r Industrial areas
r
regarding environmental issues
r Recovery of by-products
set up a collaborative and networking approach for carry-
r Reuse of sludge from wastewater treatment plants
ing out the scenario by modeling and collecting data
r Recovery of chrome
The creation of an average LCA for the main products
From the activities of tanneries and local associations, a large
of the district can be seen as a driver that stimulates a re-
number of consortia and facilities were established inside the
sponse in the actors inside the cluster. The responses can be
cluster, such as wastewater treatment plants, a plant for the
seen in the establishment of collaboration and networking
recovery of chrome from exhausted solutions, various consortia
among firms, and between firms and institutions and in the
for the recovery of by-products and sludge, consortia for exports,
increased awareness of SMEs and institutions in environmental
promotion, and urbanization (figure 1).
issues.
Another institution that plays an important role inside the
industrial cluster is a technology park called the Polo Tec-
Case Study: The Tanning Cluster of Santa Croce nologico Conciario (Po.Te.Co.), which trains technical per-
sull’Arno sonnel and carries out applied research. The main fields of
Po.Te.Co. are environmental sustainability, the innovation of
The cluster of Santa Croce sull’Arno, located in Tuscany
products and processes, a laboratory for experimental activities,
(central Italy), covers an area with a radius of approximately 10
and training in human resources. Recently, local associations,
kilometers, 90,000 inhabitants, and includes six municipalities.
together with a few local associations from other industrial clus-
The tanning cluster of Santa Croce sull’Arno is one of the
ters, promoted some research, which, thanks to the support of
most important areas in the field of leather production both
the regional government of Tuscany, after a few years resulted
at the Italian and international levels. Tanning in this re-
in the first draft of a methodology for an EMAS scheme at a
gion dates back to the nineteenth century and after World
cluster level.
War II greatly expanded and became an intertwined part of
the urban settlement. In the 1970s, the tanneries began to
move away from cities to industrial areas. This process estab- Method and Data Collection
lished an industrialization path characterized by the shared
This study was performed using a methodological framework
plan of development policies by the local public adminis-
based on the ISO standards (UNI 2006a, 2006b), and the prod-
trations and enterprises, usually represented by local associa-
uct category rules (PCR) published by EPD for “finished bovine
tions. The industrial cluster accounts for approximately 35%
leather” (EPD 2011) was followed.
of the Italian production of tanned leather and 98% of the
In the case study, the Cluster-LCA was used in order to
Italian production of leather for shoes. The productive model
create an average LCA for the main products of the cluster:
is characterized by an extremely fragmented SME structure.
In the cluster, there are approximately 600 enterprises (tan-
- Chromium tanned leather
neries and subcontractors) with 8,000 operators. The cluster
- Vegetable tanned leather
is characterized by an extremely active collaboration among
- Sole leather
the most important stakeholders that facilitates the develop-
ment of networks and strategies for the creation of services The system boundaries were taken from cradle to gate, given
for the entire supply chain and for the protection of the that the analyzed products are intermediate products that un-
environment. dergo a variety of subsequent processes. The investigated sys-
The tanneries inside the cluster are supported by local asso- tem includes: livestock of animals, transportation of the raw
ciations in dealing with issues related to their work. The two hides from the country of production, tanning, wastewater treat-
main associations in the cluster are “Associazione Conciatori ment, and the production and transportation of chemicals and
di Santa Croce,” which includes approximately 200 tanneries packaging.
mainly specialized in the production of chrome tanned leather, The following key issues were also considered:

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A P P L I C AT I O N S A N D I M P L E M E N TAT I O N

Figure 1 Relationships between tanneries and the consortia inside the cluster.

- problems related to the data collection regarding the great interest given that the decisions will be taken by repre-
chemical substances used sentatives of at least 70% of the European producers of tanned
- how to reconcile the data collected by the different firms leather and thus will be shared and accepted by the industry and
stakeholders.
The ISO suggests several ways of dealing with the contri- According to the PCR, the functional units are defined as:
bution of each product from multioutput systems, such as the
- chromium tanned leather: 1 square meter (m2 ) of finished
expansion of system boundaries or allocation according to dif-
bovine leather
ferent criteria. In this study, the already cited PCR was followed
- vegetable tanned leather: 1 m2 of finished bovine leather
and “next life cycle” for dealing with multioutput systems was
chosen, which considers the total amount of environmental For sole leather, another functional unit was used, which was
impact resulting from the production of the product. Because well known to the producers and was also suggested by Brugnoli
by-products have an economic value, an economic allocation (2012):
between the by-products and the main product may also be - sole leather: 1 kilogram (kg) of finished bovine leather
suitable. Although the discussion on the allocation in the field
of tanned leather is very active, it was decided not to question In our study, annual production and consumption data were
the indications reported in the PCR, given that the study is collected in 2010 and 2012 from 44 tanneries in the industrial
not focused on methodological issues, but on the application of cluster. The representativeness of the data in terms of produc-
LCA in a cluster context. tion is reported in table 2. The representativeness of the data for
There is also a debate within the leather industry regard- chromium tanned leather and vegetable leather was evaluated
ing whether raw hides should be considered as a waste of the for the two products together, owing to the fact that the data
slaughter process or whether they should be considered as a for the total production of the cluster are given as an aggre-
by-product, thus carrying a certain percentage of the upstream gated value of chromium tanned leather and vegetable tanned
burden and, in this case, how to establish the percentage of leather.
this burden. Many researchers have dealt with this issue (e.g., During the inventory phase, it became clear that the tanning
Brugnoli 2012; Clarke 2014). Given that leather was included process in the cluster under study is characterized by a high
in the first round of EU pilot trials for developing environmen- level of personalization and fragmentation. The tanning process
tal footprint approaches to standardized products, hopefully this performed in the industrial cluster is much more of an artisanal,
point will be clarified once and for all. rather than an industrial, process. This introduces the additional
In the meantime, in this work the indications of the PCR difficulties regarding collecting data that have a high variability
that suggest a mass allocation factor to raw hides for the up- and high uncertainty, and reconciling data from different firms
stream burdens were followed. We also followed the PCR and that often perform different types of processes and outsource
in terms of the choice of the process used to model the farming different phases. In order to take the structure of the cluster
phase, that is, ”cattle from farm” from the LCA food database. into account, where outsourcing is quite common, the process
This greatly influences the final results of the study, which must is divided into three main phases: (1) beamhouse and tannage;
be taken into consideration in the analysis of the numerical (2) retannage, dyeing, and fatliquoring; and (3) finishing.
results. The EU pilot scheme will end in 2016 and will clar- Primary data were collected for the supply of raw hides and
ify, apart from these two issues, the choice of the functional for the energy and material consumption, as well as waste pro-
unit, the allocation factors to be used in the tanning process, duction and emissions for the tanning process.
and how to deal with other general assumptions, such as inven- Some of the tanneries started with semifinished leather,
tory data for chemicals and transportation. The work will be of such as wet-blue, wet-white, or pickled leather. For this reason,

1204 Journal of Industrial Ecology


A P P L I C AT I O N S A N D I M P L E M E N TAT I O N

Table 2 Representativeness of the collected data

Total production Representativeness


Year Sample of the cluster (%)

Chromium and vegetable 2010 8,574,815 m2 47,943,700 m2 17.8


tanned leather 2012 7,436,245 m2 31,000,000 m2 24
Sole leather 2010 2,077,482 kg 39,198,000 kg 5.3
2012 4,785,897 kg 37,984,000 kg 12.6

Note: m2 = square meters; kg = kilograms.

annual data were collected regarding the types of hides bought same task, and when no precise information on the composi-
(if raw or semifinished and, if so, what kind of semifinished) and tion of the blend was available. In order to model the classes of
the provenience of each type of hide. chemicals, a representative product available in the databases
Annual data for the tanning process were collected from was chosen with the help of Po.Te.Co. It was possible to find
tanneries using questionnaires. Po.Te.Co. provided technical primary data directly from the producer only for vegetable tan-
expertise in the collection of internal data and in the comple- nins. Owing to the fact that the chemicals used in the tanning
tion of the questionnaires. After the collection of the question- process heavily affect the environmental impact, the quality of
naires, Po.Te.Co. carried out a quality check on the data and the data is currently being improved.
defined some indicators of consumption in order to identify any
mistakes in the numbers. The indicators defined are listed in
Results of the Cluster Life Cycle
table 3.
Assessment
In the calculation of the average LCAs, the average values
among the firms of each input and output data were considered. The results of the average LCA are reported in table 4.
However, in addition to the calculation of the average values, The impact categories analyzed are those listed in the PCR for
the range of variation for each value was also calculated. Table “finished bovine leather.” The EPD method was used. SimaPro
3 reports the average values and the ranges of variation for the 7.3.3 was used to carry out the analysis.
most important parameters for the three leather products. As can be seen from the table, vegetable tanned leather has
When dealing with an LCA of tanned products, one of the a higher impact compared to chrome tanned leather for all the
main tasks is related to the chemicals used in the process. A impact categories, except for bulk waste and photochemical
typical tannery can use up to 600 different chemicals, most of oxidation. The higher impact of vegetable tanned leather is
which are proprietary mixes and the only information available owing to the higher amount of chemical products used in the
is related to the content of dangerous substances. These prod- process. The impacts of chrome and vegetable tanned leather
ucts are usually sold by local suppliers who do not produce the cannot be compared with sole leather, because of the different
chemicals, but simply act as commercial entities. In addition, functional units.
the chemical compounds used are often very complex or un- The contributions to the overall environmental impact of
common, so the use of databases for the inventories of these raw hides (including transportation) and chemicals used in the
chemicals is not always feasible. Concerning the chemicals, the tanning process are highlighted for the three types of leather in
major problems were: figure 2. These two contributions constituted more than 70% of
the overall impact, with the exception of “water depletion”—
- No information on the place of production of the chem- water consumption is very high in the tanning process.
icals Regarding the contribution of the chemicals to the overall
- No primary data for the production of complex/ environmental impact, the qualitative results of this analysis
uncommon chemicals are reported in table 5, which shows the chemicals that
- Often an unknown composition of the blends of chemi- contribute more than 60% of the environmental impact. These
cals chemicals are also important in terms of the amount used in
- Lack of inventories in the commercial databases the tanning process.

For our study, a list of chemical substances and classes of


Discussion
chemicals was defined and each tannery provided the annual
amount bought. In order to identify the classes of chemicals, the Cluster-LCA is an innovative instrument for the SMEs in-
document drafted by the Italian Association of Leather Produc- side the cluster, given that it directly involves SMEs in the
ers (UNIC 2011) was taken as a starting point and adapted in creation of an average LCA. The latter can then be used for
order to make it easily understandable for the tanneries. A class marketing or improvement purposes without the financial and
of chemicals instead of a single substance was required when human costs, usually required for the creation of an individual
there were many different chemicals that could perform the firm’s LCA.

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Table 3 Average values and ranges of variation for the most important parameters for the production of the three types of leather

Chrome tanned leather (×/m2 ) Vegetable tanned leather (×/m2 ) Sole leather (×/kg)

Electricity (kWh) 3.09 [1.90–4.41] 3.35 [2.30–4.23] 0.59 [0.11–0.96]


Natural gas (Sm3 ) 1.09 [0.89–1.21] 0.77 [0.24–1.03] 0.11 [0.07–0.14]
Water (m3 ) 0.18 [0.15–0.21] 0.12 [0.07–0.21] 0.02 [0.02–0.03]
Chrome (kg) 0.55 [0.43–0.73] — —
Tannins (kg) 0.15 [0.00–0.44] 1.49 [1.10–2.05] 0.81 [0.74–0.90]
Sulphate (kg) 0.15 [0.08–0.25] 0.14 [0.09–0.20] 0.05 [0.04–0.06]
Lime (kg) 0.18 [0.14–0.21] 0.20 [0.00–0.41] 0.11 [0.11–0.12]
Deliming agents (kg) 0.11 [0.09–0.12] 0.12 [0.01–0.23] —
Sodium bisulphate (kg) — — 0.09 [0.06–0.17]

Note: kWh = kilowatt-hours; Sm3 = standard cubic meters; m3 = cubic meters; kg = kilograms; m2 = square meters.

Table 4 Results of the average LCA for the three main products of the cluster

1 m2 vegetable 1 m2 chromium 1 kg
Impact category Unit tanned leather tanned leather sole leather

Global warming (GWP100) kg CO2 -eq 16.6 14.2 5.79


Ozone layer depletion kg CFC-11-eq 1.12 × 10−4 2.91 × 10−5 3.45 × 10−5
Photochemical oxidation kg C2 H4 -eq 2.13 × 10−2 0.01 9.77 × 10−3
Acidification kg SO2 -eq 9.09 × 10−2 8.61 × 10−2 3.49 × 10−2
Eutrophication kg PO4 3- -eq 6.89 × 10−2 5.55 × 10−2 2.72 × 10−2
Water depletion m3 0.25 0.18 5.11 × 10−2
Bulk waste kg 1.46 1.64 0.59
Hazardous waste kg 1.7 × 10−3 1.15 × 10−3 3.25 × 10−4
Material resources (nonrenewable) kg 16 5.51 8.12
Nonrenewable resources for energy conversion MJ-eq 318 178 117
Material resources (renewable) kg 7 7 2.5
Renewable resources for energy conversion MJ-eq 6.7 3.91 2.52

Note: GWP100 = global warming potential 100-year time horizon; kg CO2 -eq = kilograms carbon dioxide equivalent; CFC-11 = richlorofluoromethane;
C2H4 = ehtylene; SO2 = sulfur dioxide; PO4 3- = phosphate; MJ = megajoule; m2 = square meter.

Table 5 Highest contributing chemicals for each type of leather

Impact category Vegetable tanned leather Chrome tanned leather Sole leather

Global warming (GWP100) Vegetable tannins; Synthetic Chrome salts Vegetable tannins; Synthetic
tannins tannins
Ozone layer depletion Synthetic tannins Chrome salts; Synthetic tannins Synthetic tannins
Photochemical oxidation Vegetable tannins Surfactants; Deliming agents; Vegetable tannins
Chrome salts
Acidification Vegetable tannins; Synthetic Chrome salts Vegetable tannins; Sodium
tannins bisulphite
Eutrophication Vegetable tannins Anti-wrinkle products; Chrome Vegetable tannins
Salts
Water depletion Vegetable tannins; Surfactants Surfactants; Chrome salts Vegetable tannins

Note: GWP100 = global warming potential 100-year time horizon.

The particular feature of an LCA passing through the cluster the structure of the checklist and the model developed for one
structure is that the analyst has to deal with multiple firms, firm can be used for all the firms in the cluster. Exploiting the
each with its own characteristics, and evaluate the quality and particular features of the cluster reduces the time and efforts of
reliability of the data. On the other hand, because the firms the analyst, thus making possible for each SME in the cluster
belong to the same sector, the difficulties and amount of work to gain their first experience with LCA and have a good model
needed is the same as that required for one firm. In addition, available for their product at a lower cost. Passing through the

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Figure 2 Contribution to the overall environmental impact: (a) vegetable tanned leather; (b) chrome tanned leather; and (c) sole leather.

cluster for the collection of data makes a significant amount for the construction of the average inventory of the main
of data available for each production step, which allows the products of the cluster. These data are then used for the en-
analyst to complete an inventory of firms that perform only a vironmental assessment of the average products, highlighting
particular phase with specific data. the hotspots of the average production and providing recom-
With a Cluster-LCA, it is possible to introduce firms to mendations for local policy makers. Once knowledge at the
the LCA approach at a cluster level first and then later at a cluster level is well established, the study can move to the
firm level. At a cluster level, the LCA study is coordinated firm level and the LCA study can be customized to specific
by local associations, and each firm involved can supply data products.

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Table 6 SWOT analysis for the Cluster-LCA methodology and for the application of this methodology in the tanning cluster of Santa Croce
Strengths Weaknesses Opportunities Threats
Reduced cost in the case Complicated tool to be Starting point for LCA Representativeness of the
of LCA adoption at the managed and elaboration at the firm sample
firm level updated by local level
actors
Improve knowledge and Results are dependent Possibility of No answer from involved
awareness of on the quality of benchmarking firms
firms/institutions data.
Cluster-LCA Creation of a culture Difficult Indications to policy Risk of benchmarking
inside the cluster communication of makers
the results
Territorial marketing
Obtainment of a
third-party certification
of LCA
Environmental awareness New tool, not yet Territorial label based on Poor data on upstream
at the firm level, highly implemented at the Cluster-LCA phases
developed (EMAS cluster level
cluster)
Public and private Poor data on Possibility to actively Important contribution of
institutions and production of participate in the EU upstream phase on the
associations deeply chemicals PEF Pilot scheme for environmental impact
involved “Leather”
Cluster-LCA applied Availability of data from “Rules of the game” Learning about LCA, data Not effective application
in Santa Croce subcontractors and not yet established collection at firm level
environmental cluster
infrastructures
Strong interest of Interest of key actors
stakeholders in the belonging to the supply
topic chain (e.g., shoes
production)
Note: SWOT (strengths, weaknesses, opportunities, and threats); LCA = life cycle assessment; EMAS = Eco Management and Audit Scheme; EU =
European Union.

On the basis of the current literature on EMAS Clusters SWOT analysis are reported in table 6 and further discussed
and LCA, a SWOT analysis on the LCA-cluster was com- below.
piled. Information on the strength, weaknesses, opportunities, Focusing on the analysis of the tool “Cluster-LCA,” the main
and threats related to these two instruments was gathered and strength was the possibility to create a culture around environ-
examined in order to build a framework related to the Cluster- mental issues in the cluster. The weaknesses are owing mainly
LCA approach. to the complex nature of the LCA, in its implementation and
SWOT analyses were created in the 1960s to be used in communication phase. The main opportunities relate to the
business. In this context, the SWOT analysis enables organi- possible use of the results in setting local policies and mar-
zations to identify both internal and external influences. The keting strategies, whereas the threats relate to the risk of low
first two letters in the acronym, S (Strengths) and W (Weak- involvement of firms and on the misuse of numerical results
nesses), refer to internal factors, whereas the second two letters from the analysis.
O (Opportunities) and T (Threats) refer to external factors. If the focus of the analysis is the implementation of a Cluster-
In addition to its use in business, the SWOT analysis has also LCA in the cluster of Santa Croce, the emerging results, com-
been used in social contexts and in community work as a tool pared to the results of the previous step of the analysis, highlight
to identify positive and negative factors within organizations, the main points that facilitate the adoption of this methodology
communities, and the broader society. The SWOT analysis has in clusters also considering a LCM perspective. The strengths
thus been used to identify the characteristics of the Cluster- in this case are the proactive and supporting institutions and
LCA methodology and the application of this instrument in a associations inside the cluster, which promote the involvement
particular cluster. A comparison of the results from these two of firms and consortia. They thus overcome the main threats
different analyses enables some conclusions to be drawn on the identified, such as “no answer from involved firms” and “repre-
characteristics that a cluster should have in order to success- sentativeness of the sample.” This high environmental aware-
fully implement this methodology. The main points from the ness of the key actors and firms located in the cluster is owing

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to the implementation of EMAS at the cluster level since 2005, The positive and negative characteristics of the Cluster-
which enabled the cluster to obtain official recognition by the LCA methodology and its application in Santa Croce were
Italian EMAS Committee. The first strength is helpful in over- addressed in two SWOT analyses.
coming some of the weaknesses of the Cluster-LCA, that is, the The aspects highlighted in these analyses can be used to
complexity related to the LCA and the communication of the understand whether a certain cluster has the necessary char-
results. The second plays a synergic role together with the proac- acteristics to successfully apply a Cluster-LCA. In terms of the
tive institutions and associations in involving and motivating Santa Croce experience, the strengths of this cluster are able to
firms inside the cluster. overcome the threats and weaknesses of the Cluster-LCA.
Another key element that facilitates a high representative- The analysis was first performed on the Cluster-LCA as a
ness of the data collected is linked to the particular aspects of possible tool for the diffusion of innovative solutions. The main
the leather sector. Leather is a basic input for the final products strength of the tools was identified in the possibility of creating
of the fashion sector, that is, one of the key sectors of “made a culture around environmental issues in the cluster, raising
in Italy.” Historically, in this sector the producers of leather the awareness of firms and institutions. The weaknesses mainly
products are particularly sensitive to environmental and social relate to the complex nature of the LCA, in the implementation
issues, and this sensitivity has been transferred to the tanner- and communication phases. The main opportunities relate to
ies as one of the main polluting industries in the supply chain. the possible use of the results in forming local policies and
Thus, entrepreneurs in the S. Croce cluster regard environmen- marketing strategies, whereas the threats relate to the risk of
tal issues as an important part of the quality of their products in low involvement of firms and the misuse of numerical results
the face of emerging competitors in third-world countries. from the analysis.
Although the previous experience with EMAS applied at The successful implementation of the Cluster-LCA in a spe-
the cluster level facilitates the application of LCA, the latter cific cluster can be obtained if some characteristics of the cluster
still remains a new instrument with some complex issues that are able to overcome the intrinsic difficulties of the tool. These
need addressing at the cluster level, which can be classified as characteristics may involve the strong commitment of the local
a weakness. Two more weaknesses relate to the application of institution and associations, as well as the maturity of the cluster
LCA in the tanning industry, that is, the lack of inventory data in terms of environmental issues, not necessarily in LCA. Also,
for chemicals and the lack of common category rules for the an interest in the topic on behalf of the main stakeholders, such
creation of LCA (named “rules of the game” in table 6). as the main customers and clients, can drive the interest of firms
The opportunities that the cluster is investigating include and thus the activity of the clusters.
the creation of a territorial label based on Cluster-LCA and Although the experience in Santa Croce has proven to be
the participation at the EU PEF pilot for “leather.” The threats successful, the research could be extended to address some of
relate to the poor data availability for upstream phases (e.g., the weaknesses of this study. Future research could focus on
farming) considering the relevance of this phase in the entire asking the tanneries to be more specific in the compilation of
life cycle of the finished leather. Although the application at the the list of chemicals, also considering that most of the impact
cluster level has been successfully completed, the application at comes from a limited number of chemicals. In terms of the pri-
the firm level is still not effective and, in the long run, this could mary inventory for chemicals, further steps to involve producers
affect the trust of firms in the Cluster-LCA and its effectiveness. should be taken. On the managerial side, the focus should be on
how firms could easily implement an LCA at the firm level and
how the results of the analysis can be used and communicated
Conclusions
to external stakeholders.
This work has analyzed how the cluster structure can help
in promoting voluntary, innovative, and complex instruments
for the evaluation of environmental impacts of products among References
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