Mud Hub Assembly Guide - Web Version

MUD HUB
GREENHOUSE
Mud
ASSEMBLY GUIDE
2019 EDITION
Outline sequence for

Greenhouse Assembly
1
Learn more at:
MudHubGreenhouses.com
For Questions:
(505) 670-6370
info@mudhubgreenhouses.com
MUD HUB GREENHOUSE ASSEMBLY GUIDE
SUGGESTED TOOL LIST (NOT PROVIDED)

* 2 sawhorses * Pencils
* (12-16) 18” concrete steel or wood stakes * 25’ measuring tape

(for leveling 2x12’s)
* Chalk line & chalk
* (2) 50’ extension cords w/ 3-way outlet
connectors * 100’ string line
* Compressor /compressor hose/air staple * Sander & 80 grit sandpaper

gun (optional, if no power outlet nearby)
* Shovels/tamper/pick axe (for fine tuning site)
* Circular saw
* 48” bar clamp/24” bar clamp/large scissor
* 1 drill & 1 driver with appropriate driver clamps
bits for various screws
* Tin snips
* Phillips head bits
* Hack saw
* Star bits
* Paint brushes, rollers and pans
* 5/16” wood drill bit
2
* 5/16” socket wrench bit with ½” deep well

* 7/32” or 3/16” metal drill bit
* 3/8” socket wrench bit
* (1) 6’ level, (1) 4’ level
* Pilot hole wood bit
* Hammer tacker/stapler & 5/16” staples
* Carpet knife or blade
* Framing square/speed square
* Hammer
REQUIRED FASTENERS
(PROVIDED)
* #8 1 1/4” cabinet screws, exterior, 105 for 12 x 20

and 70 for 10 x 12 needed
* 1/4” pan of bugle head screws, 75 needed (for

galvanized trim
* 1 5/8” pan head screws, exterior, 30 needed

for door framing
* #8x 3 1/8” ext. cabinet screws, 75 needed for

raised bed framing
* #10 x 3” star drive bugle head screws, 50 needed,

for 4 x4’s to raised beds and 2 x 6’s to tops
3
* 5/16” carriage bolts, washers, nuts, 16 needed for
10 x 12 units & 24 needed for 12 x 20 units
* 3/8” flat head self-tapping screws, 15 needed if

using 4-season cover, 10 if not.
COMPONENTS/MATERIALS/HARDWARE
B elow are selected components, materials and hardware needed to as-

semble complete greenhouse kits, including winter polyethylene covers.
Not shown are lumber, tubing, and common fasteners needed.
1 2 3 4
Weed barrier ½” hardware cloth 6-mil black polyethylene Vinyl coated steel mesh
5 6 7 8
4
Bent steel hoop leg Steel hoop arc Galvanized coated Shade cloth
flashing trim
9 10 11 12 13
Strut connectors Set screw coupling Single-loop Interior Exterior
Velcro ties rafter rafter
clamps clamps
12 & 13 14 15 16
Alt. view Wiggle wire & base Crank, tube connector & swivel Snap clamps
RAISED BED ASSEMBLY: FIRST LEVEL
1. Layout and cut list

17 18
Purlin tubing Adhesive hook & loop 10 X 12 UNIT RAISED BEDS
(ALL CUTS ARE MADE OUT OF 2 X 12’S)
* (2) 2 x 12 x 12’s cut to 11’-9”, (2) 2 x 12 x 12’s cut to 12’ lengths
RECOMMENDED SITE PREPARATION * (1) 2 x 12 x 10’ cut to 9’-9”, (1) 2 x 12 x 10’ cut to 10’
1. Level site to 2’ beyond all sides of unit; site should be level
* (2) 2 x 12 x 8’s cut to 7’-9”, (2) 2 x 12 x 8’s cut to 8’ lengths
to within ½”.
* (1) 2 x 12 x 10’s cut to 3 lengths of 3’-4”, (1) 2 x 12 x 10’s cut
2. Leveling material: 3” of crusher fines spread and tamped.
to 2 lengths of 3’-1” & 1 length of 3’-7”
5
3. Locate footprint in mostly sunny area; do not locate under
or over utility lines.
12 X 20 UNIT RAISED BEDS
4. Orient north-south if possible to maximize variety of light * (2) 2 x 12 x 20’s cut to 19’-9”, (2) 2 x 12 x 20’s cut to 20’ lengths
conditions for crops.
* (1) 2 x 12 x 12 cut to 11’-9”, (1) 2 x 12 x 12 cut to 12’
5. Best assembly weather conditions are 45f degrees and higher,
low to no winds and dry * (2) 2 x 12 x 20’s cut to 19’-9”, (2) 2 x 12 x 20’s cut to 20’ lengths
* (1) 2 x 12 x 12 cut to 11’-9”, (1) 2 x 12 x 12 cut to 12’

12 x 20 UNITS
12’ - 0” 11’ - 9”
4’ - 3” 4’ - 0”
19 ‘ - 9” 19 ‘ - 9” 20’ - 0” 20’ - 0”
15’ - 9” 15’ - 9” 16’ - 0” 16’ - 0”

6
4’ - 0” 4’ - 0” 3’ - 9” 3’ - 9”
1st Course 2nd Course
LAYOUT & CUT PATTERN

10 x 12 UNITS
10’ - 0” 9’ - 9”
3’ - 7” 3’ - 4”
11’ - 9” 11’ - 9” 12’ - 0” 12’ - 0”

7’ - 9” 7’ - 9” 8’ - 0” 8’ - 0”
7
3’ - 4” 3’ - 4” 3’ - 1” 3’ - 1”
1st Course 2nd Course
LAYOUT & CUT PATTERN

2 X 12 LUMBER & HOOP LEG PLACEMENT PLANS
2.
Lay the first board (long side, either the 11’-9” of the 10 x 12 unit or 19’-9” of the 12 x 20 unit) /level/straighten/secure with
concrete stakes. After leveling, drive concrete stakes 6” into ground and screw stakes to both ends (come in from the end
12”). Tap a nail on top mid-width at both ends of board (See figure 2). String a line between nails and stretch tight. Be sure the
board at mid-length (6’ for 12’, 10’ for 20’) is centered under string. Once board is positioned, drive and screw concrete stake to
secure 2 x 12. Use1 5/8” cabinet screws. Note: This is an important step and must be done properly as it determines whether or not
subsequent boards and structure are level and square.
Figure 1.
8
Figure 2.
COMPONENTS/MATERIALS/HARDWARE
L
ay second board: back side opposite door. Make perpendicular to first
board; level, straighten, secure. Use (4) 3” cabinet screws at corner. Be sure back board overlaps long board
Figure 3.
9
3.
Third board (opposite first board) long side: exterior
u-shape established.
Figure 4.
4.
Front door side: 2 small pieces attached to long sides (figure 5). Lengths will be 3’-4” for 10 x 12 unit or 48”
for 12 x 20 unit. Short lengths overlap long sides.
10
Figure 5.
5. Attach (3) inner boards to form inner u-shape (figure 6).
6.
Attach temporary 2x4 to front short sections on each side of door
opening so unit is a solid rectangle. For 10 x 12 units, the front pieces and
aisle width are 40”. For 12 x 20 units, that measurement is 48”. Screw 2 x 4 flush
with tops of 2 x 12’s so desired aisle width is established (Figure 6).
11
Figure 6.
SQUARE UP UNIT:
7.
Note: This is important to ensure that the prefabricated steel hoop profiles fit properly. Measure to outside corner of
both diagonals to square unit by moving box so diagonal measurements are equal. Then, unit is “square” (figure 11).
8.
To this point, only one long board has been leveled, straightened and secured using concrete or wooden stakes. Level
all other sides and straighten by using string line and secure with stakes as you go forward, one side at a time.
12
Figure 7.
SUGGESTED CONCRETE OR WOOD STAKE LOCATIONS
13
12 x 20 UNITS 10 x 12 UNITS
RAISED BED ASSEMBLY: SECOND LEVEL
1. All corners are lapped opposite to first level

3.
Secure 2nd course into 1st course by screwing 3”
bugle head screws through the bottom of the 2nd
course and into the 1st at a 45 degree angle (see figure
10). Drill a pilot hole first with a drill bit slightly undersized
to the screw. This will keep the wood from splitting.
Figure 8.
2. Use first level as template

14
Figure 9. Figure 10.

12 x 20 UNITS
4.
Recheck diagonal measurements. A 1/8”
difference is acceptable. Otherwise, scratch head
and figure out why unit is not square.
4 X 4 LOCATIONSLEVEL
46.75” Typ
10 x 12 UNITS
11.
15
Figure
5.
Cut 4x4’s to 22 ½” and fasten to boxes with 3” bugle
head screws. See diagram for layout details of 4 x
4’s. Screw thru 2 x 12’s into 4 x 4’s. Use 4 screws per 4 x 4.
43.75” Typ
3.5”
RAISED BED PROTECTION
1.
Insert hardware cloth. Use 2x4 to bend edges and lap 2” up raised bed sides from grade. Chalk a line 2” above bottom of 2x12 to
use as a guide to line up top of hardware cloth. Note: (3) pieces of hardware cloth need to be cut, (2) long runs and (1) shorter
back run. Figure the actual measurements from board to board for the 3 pieces and add 4” to both width & length of each piece.
2.
Drive 1 1/4” cabinet screws through hardware cloth into
1st course 2x12 bases every 12”.
Figure 13. Figure 13a.

16
Figure 12.
1. 2.
Staple 6-mil polyethylene to inside of 2x12’s. Cut 24” Lay weed barrier cloth over hardware cloth and
width out of roll and lap corners 6” – 12”. Do not cover top secure with landscape stakes.
of 2 x 12’s with plastic.
47” typical
12 x 20 Hoop Layout on top of 2 x 12
46 7/16” typical
10 x 12 Hoop Layout on top of 2 x 12

Figure 14.
RAISED BED PROTECTION
1. Place tape measure at inside corner as shown in figure 16.
17
2.
Mark all hoop legs 22 ½” up from bottom on the outside of hoop legs with felt tip pen (see red line,
figure 17). This mark aligns all legs with the top of the raised bed and ensures consistent height of legs.
Note: Each unit has 4

corner hoop legs
that are different than interior
hoop legs. Corner legs have an
upper punctured hole that is
perpendicular to its lower hole
(Figure 20); interior hoop legs
have aligned holes. There are 4
interior legs in a 10 x 12 unit and
8 interior legs in a 12 x 20 unit.
Figure 17.
18
3.
Align mark with top of 2x12’s. Push lower leg into corner and situate upper leg so that the bend is perpendicular to the long
side of the bed and facing the inside. Plumb the leg bend as in figures 17 & 18. Use 2 x 4 and 4’ level so that the leg bend is flush
with face of 2 x 4. Eventually, the hoop rafter will fit into the opposing corner legs to complete the full hoop. Drill thru pre-punctured
holes in corner hoop legs with 5/16” wood drill bit into 2x12’s while holding hoop legs plumb.
4.
Fasten with 5/16” x 3.5” carriage bolts, with heads facing out and washers and nuts on the inside of
beds. Notice in figure 20 the offset of carriage bolts in corner hoop legs, typical of all four corners.
19
Figure 20.
5.
Use hoop leg jig to plumb all interior hoop legs (see note on how to construct jig).
Note: Align felt tip mark on hoop leg with top

of 2 x 12 before drilling through wood.
Jig A Jig B
20
Figure 21. Figure 22. Figure 23.

CONSTRUCTING A JIG FOR PLUMBING HOOP LEGS
Use a 2x12 scrap and cut to a length of 20”. Cut a 2x4 to 11”. Screw 2x4 to top of 2x12 lining up one edge of
2x4 to an edge of the 2x12 (see figures 21 & 22). Pre drill pilot holes so wood won’t split. This jig (A) will sit
on the top of the raised bed and lay against the inside, and will be a plumb guide for the hoop legs. Next
cut a 2x4 to 20” and another to 3.5”. Screw the smaller piece on to the top of the longer piece making sure
to align the edges. Cut a 2x4 to 48” and screw to the long face of 20” piece, matching the bottoms of both
Jig A pieces. The 48” piece will rise above the raised bed by about 2’. Screw or clamp a 4’ level to the 48” face so
edge of level is lined up with inside edge of 2x4. This makes jig (B).
Jig B Use these jigs as follows: By standing inside raised bed, face the exterior wall. Locate an interior hoop leg
layout marking on top of the 2x12. The leg will be centered on this mark, sandwiched between the jig A on
the left side and the jig B on the right side. The level of jig B should be aligned on the left edge of the jig
face. The hoop leg is situated so that the felt tip mark (previously done) is at the top of 2x12 bed. The bend
at the top of the leg lays flat against the inside edge of jig B (the edge is made up of the 48” 2x4 and the 4’
level). Again, the bend should be perpendicular to the wall of the raised bed that the leg will be bolted to.
21
Opposing bends will connect with a hoop rafter to complete the hoop.piece.
INSTALLING END HOOP RAFTERS

Sequence of installing connectors:
1. 2.
The two end hoops, one at the front and one at the back, need to Next, insert set screw couplings ‘H’ & ‘I’
have purlin clamps slid onto hoop rafter or hoop legs before that (figure 25) onto each corner hoop leg,
rafter is attached to its’ legs. Start by sliding end purlin clamps ‘A’ & ‘G’ place at end of hoop leg bend and overlap by
(figure 25) over each of 4 corner hoop legs with bottom part of clamp half the length of coupling; Make sure screws
biased to the inside (figure 26). Let connector rest on top of 2x 12’s are pointed down and tighten screws (figure 24).
until ready to be permanently tightened.
3.
Next, starting at one end of the hoop rafter, slide purlin
end clamp ‘F’, then strut connector ‘E’, then ridge purlin
clamp ‘D’, then strut connector ‘C’ and lastly purlin end clamp ‘B’.
Remember to bias the bottom part of purlin clamps to the inside
22
(Figure 25). With clamps and connectors in place, attach hoop

rafter to legs. Do this to both front and back end hoops. Note:
the end rafter purlin clamps are the ones with one bolt and nut/
washer set instead of two bolts. The two bolt clamps are for the
interior hoop rafters.
Figure 24.
The lettering of Figure 25, below, is as follows:
A, B, D, F and G are clamps that attach the purlin to the hoop rafter and legs. The purlins run the length of the greenhouse.
H and I are the set-screw couplings that join the hoop legs to the hoop rafter.
C and E are the strut connectors that show the vertical struts installed (Figures 26 & 27). The front struts to the side of the future
door can be seen in the photo already installed.
23
Figure 25.

24
4.
After setting end rafter hoops into set screw couplings ‘H’ & ‘I’, on both sides, tighten screws. Both end rafters are
now installed. The two end hoops are now completed. Next are the interior hoops. The purlin clamps that fit the
interior hoops can be installed after the rafters are attached to the legs.
INTERIOR HOOP RAFTER INSTALLATION
1.
Place set screw couplings at hoop leg ends, with screws facing down, and tighten. Place hoop rafters into couplings
and tighten screws (Figure 28).
25
END STRUT PLACEMENT AND INSTALLATION
1. Place front struts at inside front corners of raised beds on each side of the aisle. See figure 32.
2. While holding in place at corners, insert into strut connectors C & E (Figure 25) on end hoop rafter.
3. Plumb the strut and then tighten all set screws of connector; then, drill thru pre-punctured holes in struts
through 2 x 12’s. Insert carriage bolts and tighten with nuts and washers
4. Place rear struts along and inside of rear raised bed, 40” in from outside corners for 10 x 12 units and 48” in for
12 x 20 units. See figures 29 & 30. Secure, insert in strut connector and plumb before tightening screws.
5. Drill through 2 x 12 at puncture points and install carriage bolts.

26

Figure 31.
27
Figure 33.
Figure 32.
PURLIN ASSEMBLY AND ATTACHMENT
1. Connect narrower end of a 1 5/8” diameter x 10’ tube into wider end of second tube and secure with (2) self-
tapping screws.
2.
burrs
Purlins are to measure a total of 19’-9 ½” for 12 x 20 or 11’-9 ½” for a 10 x 12 unit and cut with hacksaw & file
3. With scrap end of cut, insert into 3rd piece of tubing, secure with self-tapping screw, measure, cut & deburr.
4. Repeat until all 5 purlins are cut and ready to install.
5. Next, lay every purlin one at a time on top of 2x12 on one of the long sides. Purlin should be placed from
outside of end hoop leg to the outside of the other end hoop leg. Push purlin against all hoop legs and
28
mark with felt pen every purlin at its’ center where it contacts a leg. This is an easy way to mark for the purlin/
hoop locations that will be needed later on.
6. The two lower purlins (A & G in figure 25) attach at bend in hoop legs. To locate the three other purlins,
measure from one leg bend over the top of the hoop rafter to the opposite leg bend. Divide this
measurement in half to find ridge purlin location (D in figure 25). Mark purlin locations at end hoops with felt
tipped pen. See figure 34.
7. Measure between ridge and leg bend purlin locations along the top of rafter hoop to find the midpoint and
mark at each side for 4th and 5th purlins (B & F in figure 25). Mark, with felt tipped pen, both end hoops
all 5 purlin locations on the underside of the hoops. Stretching a chalk line from front to back, snap lines
between respective marks to chalk locations of purlins on the interior hoops. Use a felt tipped pen to
highlight chalk marks.
8. Attach interior purlin clamps on centerline of chalk lines (Figure 36).
Figure 34.
9.
29
Starting at ridge install purlins through clamps and tighten. Each purlin should line up to the outside of the
respective end hoops. End hoops may have to be moved slightly to “fit” the length of the purlin. Temporarily
secure mid-span sag of purlin to interior hoop with rope or strap – this will snug the purlin to the hoops and
make clamps easier to install.
10.
Now install the interior ridge clamps remembering to line up sharpie marks on purlins to those on rafters.
To use interior purlin clamps remove bolts and fit both pieces over hoop rafters so the legs point down and
are bent towards each other. Reinsert bolts and lightly tighten with washers/nut.
11. Attach remaining purlins to rafters at marked locations. Rafters may have to be moved left or right to
match the lines on the purlins.
12. Once gently tightened at all rafter-purlin locations, be sure square base of carriage bolts are in square
holes of clamps while tightening nuts. Use 5/16” deep socket with a ratchet or a drill. Legs of clamps
should draw close together as fasteners are being tightened. Note: On 10 x12 units there are 20 total
clamps; on 12 x 20 units there are 30. (See Figures 35, 36).
30

DOOR FRAMING (READ INSTRUCTIONS FOR APPROPRIATE SIZE UNIT)
For a 10 x 12 unit the space of the aisle is 40”. The vertical 22.5” 4x4s that were screwed into the 2x12s in the aisle in
front are set back from the aisle corner edge by 3.5”. This allows screwing in two vertical 2x4s (actual width is 3.5”) on
either side of aisle to frame in the door at the front corners (see figure 40). The length of these boards (the “legs) is 1”
longer than the height of the door.
1. Screw (3) 3” bugle head screws per leg into the 2x12s. Adjust so that tops of 2x4’s are level with each other.
2. Next cut a 2x4 header that will span between the strut connectors. Make the length tight against connectors
as this will stabilize the door. This header will rest atop the legs and will rest against strut connectors (figure
41). Plumb the verticals to the header and use two screws to secure header to legs. The aisle width between
the 2x4 legs is now 37”. The door should be 36”wide.
3.
31
Install hinges on face of door to manufacturer’s instructions. Center the door in opening (figure 42) and
raise it so there is 3/8” gap at the header. Attach other half of hinges to edge of door leg. If after doing this,
the header is not square to the door, mark how much needs to be cut from the tall leg, unscrew it from the
header and 2x12s, cut and reassemble. If the framing and leveling of the raised beds was done correctly then
the door opening should be square.
For a 12 x 20 unit the space of the aisle is 48”. The door opening needs to be narrowed to about 37”. The vertical 22.5” high 4x4s
were screwed into the 2x12s in the aisle in front at the inside corner edge. The width of the (2) 4x4s is 7”. Subtract that from 48” =
41. (2) 2x4 door frame legs will narrow that gap by 3” to 38”. To shrink this measurement to around 37”, add a 22.5” 2x4 to the 4x4
on one side. Next screw one 2x4 leg to the short 2x4 on one side and the other leg to the 4x4 on the other side. From here follow
instructions for the 10 x 12 unit (the paragraph above) to complete this step.
12 X 20 DOOR FRAMING 10 X 12 DOOR FRAMING

32
Figure 37.
Figure 38.
VINYL COATED STEEL MESH COVER
INSTALLATION:
1. Cut about 100 Velcro lengths of 8” to attach hex mesh to hoops and
struts, and about (80) 4” strips to connect adjacent sections of mesh
to mesh.
2. Start with 6’ wide mesh at back end. Cut to lengths of 12’-3” for 12 x
20 unit & 10’-3” for 10 x12 unit.
3. Staple long side edge of mesh to upper 2x12 of raised bed (figure
40), the edge of the mesh aligned with the outside edge of board.
The mesh lays flat on the 2x12 then rises up toward the hoop rafter.
4. Staple every 3 “. Make sure staple captures a segment of the mesh.

The mesh should extend past the outside of the end hoop legs by 3”.
33
5. When bottom is stapled, stretch mesh slightly and wrap around
lower hoop legs and keep that tension as the Velcro is attached.
6. Next, stretch and fasten mesh to top of hoop at ridge purlin. Work
your way up and out, stretching lightly and attaching Velcro to hoops
and struts as you go. Mesh should be wrapped up and over the hoop Figure 39.
and down the other side to match the bottom side of hoop.
7. Once mesh is wrapped and secured around the entire hoop, trim the excess mesh. After trimming excess, retie Velcro to
make mesh more snug and taut if necessary.
8. At front side, cut 2 sections either 40” (10x12) or 48” (12x20) from the 6’ roll. Proceed on either side of the door as you did
for the back end but in addition staple mesh to 2x2s at back face of 2x4 door legs.
9. For long sides, cut lengths of 17’-5” (10x12) out of the 4’ roll (1 piece) and one from an 8’ roll (1piece) or cut lengths of
18’- 4” (12x20) out of the 8’ roll (2 pieces) and 4’ roll (1 piece).
10. For a 12x20 unit, roll the 4’ width of mesh up and over top at rear of greenhouse. Make sure both ends are equal
length compared to the raised bed and even out the long edges over tops of the two rear-most hoops.
11. Choose one end and staple it to the top of 2x12 after having slightly stretched the edges towards the two hoops.
Staple every 3” atop the 2x12.
12.
34
With one worker stretching mesh outward and upward of one hoop and the second worker doing the same at other
hoop, attach Velcro every 8” or so as one works their way from one side to the other, continuously stretching and fastening.
13. At the far end, stretch the tail end of mesh against the top of 2x12 and staple insuring equal coverage at both hoop legs.
Trim off excess at edge of board.
14. Continue this process with the next 2 pieces of 8’ wide rolls. Each 8’ section will be fastened to 3 hoops.
15. Cut excess mesh so it aligns with outside edge of 2x12.
Note: For a 10x12 unit, start and proceed as described above using
1 piece of 4’ roll and 1 piece of 8’ roll cut to the correct length.
16. Install flashing over 2 x 12’s all around, overlapping @ corners.

The flashing fits over the top of the 2x12s.
17. Fasten with 1 1/4” flat head or bugle head screws. No pre-drilling
necessary. Screw every 12”.
35
36 MUD HUB GREENHOUSE ASSEMBLY GUIDE
Figure
43.
Figure
42.
SHADE CLOTH INSTALLATION
1. Maneuver shade cloth over hoops from front to rear. At front find midpoint of cloth and secure it to the midpoint of the door
header, aligning the cloth hem to the lower edge of the header. See figure 44.
2. Stretch hem along the header and use (2) 1” cabinet screws at every grommet (figure 44). Don’t let fabric hang below
header and interfere with door swing.
3. Go back and divide area between the grommets into thirds and screw in 2 additional screws through the hem. The corners
of the shade cloth past the header will stay loose for now.
4. Go to the rear of the unit and stretch the cloth towards the back. Center the cloth to the purlins so that cloth is equidistant
from neighboring purlins on both sides. Cloth will be short of end hoop rafter by inches.
5. Stretch and Velcro the midpoint of the rear cloth to the ridge purlin then stretch the rear hem in a straight line down
37
towards the sides and fasten with Velcro every 12”.
6. Work your way back towards the front, stretching slightly downward on both sides, one worker each side. Place Velcro at
every grommet; try to wrap Velcro around purlin if it is close enough otherwise Velcro to the mesh. Keep long side of cloth
parallel to purlins.
7. At front end pull corners down and out and attach with Velcro.

38
Figure 47.
Figure 46.
BENCH/COUNTER TOP INSTALLATION
1. Cut 2x6 boards to required lengths to fit on top of interior u-shaped raised beds over top of 2x12 and 4x4s.
2. Line edge of 2x6 with inside edge of 2x12. The other 2x6 edge covers 4x4s and overhangs by ½” towards aisle. See figure 49.
3. Miter ends at 45 degrees.
4. Use 3’ bugle head screws every 12” into 2x12 and into all 4x4s. Drive screws just below surface since surface will be sanded later.
39
Figure 48.
Figure 49.
5. Notch bench top ends opposite mitered corners

to butt into/fit around the door framing.
40
Figure 50.
WEATHERPROOFING EXTERIOR WOOD
1. Remove concrete stakes all around.
2. Sand raised bed interiors, exteriors, 4 x 4 supports, bench tops & door framing with 80 grit sandpaper; smooth edges
and corners
3. Brush and roll on exterior waterproof sealer of choice
POLY COVER INSTALLATION: FRONT AND BACK ENDS
1. Place u-channel wiggle wire base at rear and front ends on top of raised bed 2x12 flashing with 1 ¼” cabinet screws. Go from
outside of hoop leg to outside of hoop leg in the rear along 2x12. Go from 2x4 door leg to outside of hoop leg in the front.
2.
41
Install channel to outside face of 2x4 door legs towards front edge; butt to top of 2x12 and then bottom of 2x4 door header.
This piece should be in line with piece screwed into 2x12 top (Figure 52).
3.
For 12 x 20 units, unroll 20’ wide poly film and cut a 12’-3” length. Next, cut 12’-3” x 20’ into 2 pieces of 12’-3” x 6’. You will have
an 8’ piece left over to put aside. For 10 x 12 units, unroll 12’ wide poly film and cut a 10’-3” length. Now cut into 2 pieces of
10’-3” x 6’. These attach to front and back ends of the unit.
4. At the rear end, stretch poly taut across bottom channel on 2x12. Let it overhang an inch proud of channel. Fasten to
u-channel base with wiggle wire. The bottom is now secured. Then one worker holds cover taut up and over the end hoop
rafter while the other worker inserts 1 1/2” snap clamps over the poly film & end rafter, working from the ridge downward. Us
a minimum of 5 snap clamps for each of four sides of the ridge purlin for security. Make taut and take out wrinkles as you go.
5. At the front end, cut the remaining piece again in half. Depending on the unit size, you will now have two pieces of about
6’ x 6’ or two pieces of about 5’ x 6’. Install evenly across bottom channel on 2x12s on either side of the door with the 6’
dimension as the height. Secure at bottom with wiggle wire. Then both workers stretch poly up and out over the end hoop,
Starting at the ridge then working downwards on both sides. Fasten with 1 1/2” snap clamps on top of the hoop and at channel
on 2x4 door leg as you go. Make poly as tight and wrinkle free as possible. Poly is not needed above the door since shade cloth
is there.
6.
42
Trim excess poly film an inch beyond the channel

at all sides.. The cleaner this trim job is the nicer
the greenhouse will “dress out.”
Figure 51a.
43
Figure 52.
Figure 51b.
POLY FILM ROLL-UP ON LONG SIDES AND ATTACHMENT
1. Unroll the 20’ roll of film for long sides; cut to 20’ for 12 x 20 unit and 19’ for 10 x 12 unit.
2. The 1” EMT (electrical metal tubing) will attach to the poly cover at the top of the 2x12 raised bed on both long sides of the
greenhouse. The EMT protrudes 1” from the front corner and extends 2” beyond rear corner of greenhouse. Use 6” section of
1 3/8” fence railing with 4 self-tapping screws to connect EMT pieces to each other.
3. Use self-tapping screws provided to secure EMT to swivel (figures 53-55).

44
Figure 53. Figure 54. Figure 55.

4. Cut piece of EMT to 4’-10” and connect to other side of swivel using self-tapping screws. Now attach crank to other end of
this 4’ 10” swivel leg.
5. On 10x12 unit, maneuver poly cover over hoops and make it even so that it hangs below tops of 2x12 walls on both sides
about 12”. On one long side rest full length EMT on top of 2x12s with 2” extension in front and 12” extension in back. This is the
tricky part. At least two people and preferably 3 or 4, (invite your neighbors to help) need to pick up EMT and line it up with
bottom of the cover. Tightly roll poly cover around EMT about 3 ½ times (the width of the 12” overhang). Use clear packing
tape to fasten cover to EMT every 8” or so to aid you in this step. Secure this wrap with the five plastic snap clamps provided.
Have clamps at the ready before this procedure. Do this on both sides (figure 56). Make sure EMT lengths are resting on top
of 2x12s on both sides.
45
Figure 56.
6.
Next, install 1 ½” snap clamps at the top of the end hoop rafters to secure the cover at that location & place another to
each side of the ridge at the edge of the shade cloth. When you roll up the poly cover, it will roll up to the shade cloth but
not beyond, unless snap clamps at tops are removed or relocated higher up on the unit .
7. Test the crank by turning it so poly cover rolls up evenly. Keep cover up by crossing swivel extensions and resting on ground
(figure 63).
8. Place at least five lengths of snap clamps to each side of the ridge. Snap clamps will go over previously attached end
polyethylene panels and mesh. Make sure the polyethylene cover is taught before securing and trimming.
9. The snap clamps will help hold the corners in place during strong winds and keep unit interior temperatures warmer
during cold weather periods. As you roll the cover up to the desired height, depending on weather conditions, remove the
snap clamps in place and store.
10. Test by rolling-up & rolling-down and then cross the crank arm assemblies in at swivel to hold desired height of poly
cover in place. You can place pavers or cinder blocks on cranks to further secure in the wind. When cover is fully down
46
the swivels look like figure 62. When cover is fully up the swivels look like figures 59, 61 & 62.
11. Secure crank assembly with tie-downs at all four corners of the unit to prevent strongwinds from shifting the emt and
crank assemblies in a way that unclamps polyethylenecover at corners and causes possible tearing of the material.
To do this, begin at the two corners opposite crank assemblies and first drill holes at least ¾” from the ends of each
length of emt. Do not drill thru thepolyethylene. Fit double flanged hanger around 1” emt Next, insert an ‘s’
hook,connected to a 24” rubber strap, through the holes of the hanger flanges. See figure below. Making sure the strap
is taught, set the looped end of the strap against the exterior corners of the raised beds and connect to the raised beds
using fender washers and 1¼” cabinet screws. See figures below. Next to the flanged hangers, insert a 1 ¼”washer which
will be held in place with a cotter pin inserted through the predrilledholes at the ends of the emt. Bend the cotter pin as
shown to secure locking assembly.
12. At corners where crank assemblies are located, insert double

flange hangers around emt before swivels; insert ‘s’ hooks directly
into the holes. Connect ‘s’ hook-rubber strap assembly to raised
beds at the same distance from the top of beds as opposite sides,
stretching rubber strap as before and connect to beds using
fender washers and cabinet screws.
47
Figure 58.
Figure 57.
48 MUD HUB GREENHOUSE ASSEMBLY GUIDE
Figure
60.
Figure
59.
Figure
61.
13. Secure emt on both sides of unit, as shown in figure, to create a seat using a single flange strap at two points on each side
and a 2x4 scrap fastened to the inside of the raised beds.
Figure 62.
Note: As you use the double swivel assembly to roll the polyethylene cover up,
the roll-up cover will not go beyond the point at which the rubber strap
length stretches. To roll to the top or where the polyethylene is clamped to the end rafters,
49
simply remove the rubber straps at all four corners from the ‘s’ hooks. To fully secure when
cover is rolled up, use the 4 extra ‘s’ hook and strap assemblies to connect to the assemblies
attached to the raised bed corners. This will extend the securness of the cover from the
top of the unit to the raised beds when cover is rolled up to the top, in the event of high
winds during warm weather. It is highly recommended that the straps remain attached
during high winds or forces that would dislodge the cover from the assemblies and unit.
POLYCARBONATE PANELS OVER ENTRY DOOR
1. Cut polycarbonate to size to cover screen panel opening of selected door.
2. Frame polycarbonate with 1x2 trim all around and attach using staples or ¾”
screws through the polycarbonate, into the trim. Screw or hinge polycarbonate
frame into the door, leaving enough overlap of the frame, to hold panel in place
during colder season (fig. 52) for easy removal or opening during warmer
weather months (figure 58).
50
Figure 63.
Figure 64.
Figure 66.
Figure 65.
51
Figure 67.

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MUD HUB

Outline sequence for

SUGGESTED TOOL LIST (NOT PROVIDED)

* (12-16) 18” concrete steel or wood stakes * 25’ measuring tape

* Compressor /compressor hose/air staple * Sander & 80 grit sandpaper

* 5/16” socket wrench bit with ½” deep well

* #8 1 1/4” cabinet screws, exterior, 105 for 12 x 20

* 1/4” pan of bugle head screws, 75 needed (for

* 1 5/8” pan head screws, exterior, 30 needed

* #8x 3 1/8” ext. cabinet screws, 75 needed for

* #10 x 3” star drive bugle head screws, 50 needed,

* 3/8” flat head self-tapping screws, 15 needed if

B elow are selected components, materials and hardware needed to as-

RAISED BED ASSEMBLY: FIRST LEVEL

1. Layout and cut list

* (2) 2 x 12 x 12’s cut to 11’-9”, (2) 2 x 12 x 12’s cut to 12’ lengths

* (1) 2 x 12 x 12 cut to 11’-9”, (1) 2 x 12 x 12 cut to 12’

15’ - 9” 15’ - 9” 16’ - 0” 16’ - 0”

1st Course 2nd Course

LAYOUT & CUT PATTERN

11’ - 9” 11’ - 9” 12’ - 0” 12’ - 0”

1st Course 2nd Course

LAYOUT & CUT PATTERN

2 X 12 LUMBER & HOOP LEG PLACEMENT PLANS

RAISED BED ASSEMBLY: SECOND LEVEL

1. All corners are lapped opposite to first level

2. Use first level as template

Figure 9. Figure 10.

RAISED BED PROTECTION

Figure 13. Figure 13a.

12 x 20 Hoop Layout on top of 2 x 12

10 x 12 Hoop Layout on top of 2 x 12

1. Place tape measure at inside corner as shown in figure 16.

Note: Each unit has 4

Note: Align felt tip mark on hoop leg with top

Figure 21. Figure 22. Figure 23.

INSTALLING END HOOP RAFTERS

(Figure 25). With clamps and connectors in place, attach hoop

Figure 26. Figure 27.

END STRUT PLACEMENT AND INSTALLATION

5. Drill through 2 x 12 at puncture points and install carriage bolts.

Figure 29. Figure 30.

PURLIN ASSEMBLY AND ATTACHMENT

4. Repeat until all 5 purlins are cut and ready to install.

8. Attach interior purlin clamps on centerline of chalk lines (Figure 36).

Figure 35. Figure 36.

12 X 20 DOOR FRAMING 10 X 12 DOOR FRAMING

4. Staple every 3 “. Make sure staple captures a segment of the mesh.

15. Cut excess mesh so it aligns with outside edge of 2x12.

16. Install flashing over 2 x 12’s all around, overlapping @ corners.

Figure 44. Figure 45.

3. Miter ends at 45 degrees.

5. Notch bench top ends opposite mitered corners

1. Remove concrete stakes all around.

3. Brush and roll on exterior waterproof sealer of choice

POLY COVER INSTALLATION: FRONT AND BACK ENDS

Trim excess poly film an inch beyond the channel

3. Use self-tapping screws provided to secure EMT to swivel (figures 53-55).

Figure 53. Figure 54. Figure 55.

12. At corners where crank assemblies are located, insert double

POLYCARBONATE PANELS OVER ENTRY DOOR

1. Cut polycarbonate to size to cover screen panel opening of selected door.

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