WINDOWS

VIII. WINDOW INSTALLATION

1. REPLACEMENT VS. NEW CONSTRUCTION

1.1 INSTALLATION DIFFERENCES

1.1.1. REPLACEMENT WINDOW

• Exterior cladding is not removed
• Flashing tape should be on interior of sill and jambs
• Will need j-channel and/or aluminum exterior trim
• Fastened with screws through the jambs

1.1.2. NEW CONSTRUCTION

• Exterior cladding must be removed for nail fin fastening
• Flashing tape is installed on exterior over the nail flanges
• May have j-channel built into the window
• Fastened with nails through the nail fins

2. WINDOW MATERIAL OPTION

2.1. . VINYL WINDOWS

• Vinyl is the most commonly used material for windows and patio doors
• Offers good thermal performance and requires little maintenance
• Cost effective and available in many different colors and finishes
• Most incorporate multi-chambered profiles for strength and insulation
• Corners are welded

2.2. WOOD FRAME WINDOWS

• Offers good thermal performance and natural beauty
• Offered in a wide variety of species
• Wood requires maintenance that other materials may not (paint or stain)
• Vinyl and Aluminum cladding offered for the exterior to minimize maintenance
requirements

2.3. ALUMINUM FRAME WINDOWS

• Stronger than wood or vinyl
• Dominant choice in architectural and demanding commercial applications
• Aluminum is a good thermal conductor and is usually offered with a structural
insulation inside the frame
• Beware of replacing with vinyl because of structural strength

2.4. FIBER GLASS WINDOWS

• Offers strength comparable to aluminum and insulating properties similar to wood and
vinyl
• Offered in a variety of colors and finishes. Can be painted
• Fiberglass framing cannot be bent; these products are generally not available in round-
top, elliptical and other specialty models
• Has mechanically fastened corners

2.5. COMPOSITE WINDOWS

• Made from a combination of synthetic and natural materials like vinyl and wood, they
are held together with an epoxy resin
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• Can be molded to any shape or size

• Maintains stability in high-heat environments
• Not very common

3. IDENTIFYING WINDOW

3.1. PICTURE WINDOW

• Fixed glass windows
• No operational components to these
• No screen

3.2. DOUBLE HUNG WINDOW

• Most common style of window available
• Consists of two window sashes (i.e., panes of glass), one on top, one
on bottom
• Top and bottom sashes are removable for easy cleaning

3.3. SINGLE HUNG WINDOW

• Consists of two sashes, one on the top that doesn't move and the bottom one
does move vertically
• The advantage of the fixed window is that it limits air intrusion, since there are
fewer seams that need seals

3.4. SLIDER WINDOW

• A horizontal sliding window where the sashes operate by sliding along a track in
the window frame
• Some sliders have a fixed sash and some are bypass
• Note from outside which sash is operational (right or left)

3.5. AWNING WINDOW

• Awning windows open outward from the bottom and are hinged towards the top
using a crank handle while the operating mechanism keeps the sash securely
open
• They provide effective ventilation without letting the elements into the home

3.6. CASEMENT WINDOW

• Casement windows are hinged at the side
• The earliest form of movable window, with hinges or pivots at the upright side of
the vertically hung sash, so that it opens outward or inward like a door
• Opens by use of a crank and locks on the non-hinged side
• Usually taller than wide

3.7. TRANSOM WINDOW

• A window that sits on top of a door or another window
• Usually are fixed glass but can also be awning or hopper style
• They are usually a separate unit from the one it sits on

3.8. BAY WINDOW

• A series of windows projecting outward from the wall • Bay windows have no more than 3 sides with windows
• May require shingles or other roofing materials (copper standing seam) on the top
• Require at least 4 guys to install

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3.9. BOW WINDOW

• A series of windows projecting outward from the wall
• Bow windows have no less than 4 sides with windows
• May contain multiple types of windows (double hung, casement etc.)
• May require roofing on the top
• Will require at least 4 guys for install

3.10. GARDEN WINDOW

• Garden windows project outward to create a shelf or set of shelves
commonly used to house plants, flowers and herbs
• 3 sides and roof are glass, the sides are usually casements or single hung.
The front is usually fixed glass
• Traditional garden windows aare in the shape of a lean-to
• One glass shelf is usually included, additional shelves are an added cost

3.11. MULLED WINDOW

• A mulled window is a window unit containing two or more single windows joined
together
• The mulling process can be done at the factory or in the field combining the
separate windows together. Factory mulling is generally considered to be the
superior method, as the factory uses experienced assemblers

3.12. JALOUSIE WINDOW

• Often seen in storm doors, enclosed porches or breezeways.
• Became popular in the 50's when air conditioning was not common
• A few companies still make these such as Ply Gem and Tafco

3.13. CUSTOM BUILT WINDOWS

• Custom built windows may be necessary when seeking to preserve the historic
look of a house • Price these using labor hours and material pricing

3.14. HEAT DAMAGED WINDOWS

• Damage to windows may not be as obvious as it is in this picture
• House fires are typically 1100-1200 degrees, depending on the type of materials
that are burning
• Windows that are exposed to extreme heat will, in most cases, experience seal
failure

4. SEQUENCE OF INSTALLATION OF THE WINDOW

 Check for proper window opening.

 Uncrate the prehung window
 Remove the braces, if called by the manufacturer
 Place builders paper or felt between the window and the sheathing
 Place the window in the opening, and check for level plumb
 Attach the window at the corner, or place one nail in the casing or flange
(depending on window design)
 Secure the window in its opening

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4.1. PREPARING THE ROUGH OPENING FOR THE WINDOW

a. Lay out the window opening width between regular studs to equal the
window rough opening width plus the thickness of two regular studs.
b. Cut two pieces of window header. Nail the two header members
together using an adequate spacer so that the header thickness
equals the width of the jack or trimmer stud
c. Cut the jack or trimmer studs to fit under the header for support. Nail
the jack or trimmer studs to the regular studs.
d. Position the header at the desired height between the regular studs.
Nail thru the regular studs into the header to hold the header in place
until the next step is completed
e. Measure the rough opening height from the bottom of the header to
the top of the rough sill. Cut 2x4 inch cripples and the rough sill to the
proper length.
f. Fit the rough and cripples between the jack studs. Toenail the
cripples to the bottom plate and the rough sill to the jack studs at the
sides.
g. Apply the exterior sheathing flush with the rough sill, header, and jack
or trimmer stud framing members

4.2 INSTALLING A WOOD WINDOW

a. Set the window in the opening from the outside with the exterior
window casing overlapping the exterior sheathing. Locate the unit on
the sill, and center it between the framing members (jack studs). Use
3 ½ inch casing nails, and partially secure one corner through the
head casing
b. Level the window across the casing, and nail it through the opposite
corner with 3 ½ inch casing nail. It may be necessary to shim the
window under the side jambs at the sill to level it.
c. Plumb (check the vertical of) the side jamb on the exterior window
casing, and drive a nail into the lower corner. Complete the
installation by nailing through the exterior casing with 3 ½ inch nails.
d. Before you finally nail the window, make sure that you check the sash
to see that it operates easily.
e. Apply a flashing with the rigid portion over the head casing. Secure
the flashing with 1inch nails through the flexible vinyl into the
sheathing
f. Caulk around the perimeter of the exterior casing after the exterior
siding or brick is applied

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4.2.1. MASONRY OR BRICK VENEER WALL WINDOW

This type of window can be installed in masonry wall construction. Fasten the wood cuck to the masonry
wall construction. Fasten the wood buck to the masonry wall, and nail the window to the wood buck using
the procedures just shown for frame wall construction.
Keep in mind that the brick veneer is used as an exterior finish, adequate clearance must be left for
caulking between the window sill and the masonry. This will prevent damage and bowing of the sill.
Shrinkage also will cause damage.

a. Rough opening verification

b. Preparing the opening
c. Setting the window
d. Interior sealant application
e. Exterior sealant application

4.2.2. INSTALLING WINDOWS BY NAILING THE FLANGE TO THE SHEATING

A simple procedure is used to place windows into the rough openings left in the framing of the house for
such purposes:
a. Most windows comes with a flange that can be nailed to the sheathing or window framing.
b. Eliminates sold air seepage in the winter and some noise generated by brisk winds
In most instances, it is possible to the window unit to be handed out the opening to an outside carpenter
who can nail it in place with the little effort while the inside carpenter holds the unit in place or levels it with
shims.

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4.3 INSTALLING A METAL WINDOW

4.3.1. REMOVE PACKAGING & INSPECT WINDOW

a. Remove packaging
Remove shipping materials such as corner covers,
shipping blocks or pads. If there is a protective film on
the glass, do not remove it until installation and
construction are complete.

b. Inspect Window
 Cosmetic damage
 Product squareness (diagonal measurements not more than 1/8" different)
 Correct product (size, color, grid pattern, handing, glazing, energyefficiency requirements, etc.)
 Splits, cracks, holes, missing sections or other damage to the nail fin longer than 6" and/or within
1/2" of window frame
 For side-by-side mulled units, a drip cap that extends the length of the frame plus 1/8" overhang on
each end is required. If any of the above conditions represent a concern, or if you expect
environmental conditions to exceed the window's performance rating, do not install the window.
Contact your dealer or distributor for recommendations.

4.3.2. PREPARE BUCK

a. Seal any joint larger than 1/16" in the buck and between the buck and the concrete/masonry with sealant.
b. Cover the buck and the surrounding concrete/ masonry at the head and jambs with liquid applied flashing as
shown.
c. If installing into a four-sided buck, seal the sill in a similar manner.
d. Shim the sill 4" from each corner, at 8" intervals, and underneath mull joints, on both sides, with non-water-
degradable or compressible shims. Secure shims with sealant.

4.3.3. PREPARE STUD-FRAMED WALL

a. For Retrofit Installations

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After removing the old window, remove sufficient siding to expose enough intact building wrap to properly
seal the window to the opening. If damaged, apply new building wrap in shiplap manner. Verify the rough
opening framing is structurally sound. Continue with the instructions.
b. Prepare Building Wrap
 Trim building wrap flush with the rough opening.
 At the head, cut building wrap at 45° and tape up as shown.

c. Prepare Sill
 Measure the width of the frame from the interior to the nail fin and add 1/8". Transfer this
measurement from the outside edge of the rough opening sill and draw a line all along the rough
opening sill.
 Cut a piece of drain mat the length of the sill plus 6".
 Without cutting the drain mat material, remove 3" of the foam wedge from each end of the drain
mat. If the width of the frame is narrower than the width of the foam wedge, also trim the front edge
of the foam until it is the same width as the frame.
 Place drain mat on rough opening sill, wrapping the drain mat up 3" on each jamb as shown.
 Pull release tape and set drain mat into place.
 Lift up the back of the wicking and staple into place on the sill.
 Fold the drain mat down onto the sheathing. staple drain mat to the wall and seal the corner edges
as shown.
 For additional drainage for windows rated above DP50, cut a 2" wide strip of drain mat and apply
vertically beneath the drain mat at 12" intervals. Slightly overlap the drain mat with the strips.
Smooth out any bubbles or creases with a J-roller

4.3.4. INSTALL WINDOW

a. For units rated above DP50, run a continuous 3/8" bead of sealant around the interior side of the nail fin
where it will contact the rough opening.
b. Place window sill onto the drain mat/liquid applied flashing and tilt into the rough opening. The window sill
must rest on and be fully supported by the rough opening.
c. Fasten window with a galvanized roofing nail through the nail fin between 3"-7" from one lower corner.
d. Shim side jambs 4"- 6" from each corner, at the center point, and 8" apart.
e. Inspect window for square, level, and plumb. Test for proper operation (remove and reinstall if necessary).

4.3.5. COMPLETE INSTALLATION

a. Release the building wrap from above the header (previously taped up) and overlap the header flashing.
seal the ends with self-adhesive flashing or building wrap tape.
b. Adjust window for best operation.
c. Seal the top corners of the window with a 1/4" bead of sealant. Tool into a fillet shape.
d. Create a continuous air seal on the interior by integrating the rough opening and the window frame with
low expansion polyurethane foam or backer rod and sealant. If installing into wood framing with a drain
mat, apply sealant to the foam wedge on the back of the drain mat, integrating the back of the drain mat
with the window frame and the rough opening.
e. Ensure weep holes/channels are clear of debris for proper water drainage. do not seal weep
holes/channels.

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5. SKYLIGHTS
Having windows in wall is not enough today. Houses also have window in the ceiling. This new demand has been
popular where more light is needed and an air of openness is desired. Skylight can be installed when the house is built,
or they can be added later.

5.1. FOUR BASIC TYPES OF SKYLIGHTS

5.1.1. FLUSH-MOUNT TYPE

It includes two heavy gauge domes that are formed to provide a
built-in deck-mounting flange. This flange reduces installation
error and allows fats easy roof attachment when used with
mounting clips pre-packaged in the carton. The frameless or
seamless feature eliminates potential leakage and provides air-tight
reliability

5.1.2. CURB-MOUNT TYPE

Is ideal for locations where water, leaves or snow collect on a roof,
making an elevated skylight desirable. It is designed to use a wood
curb put in place by the installer.

5.1.3. SELF-CURBING TYPE

This feature allows simple, time-saving installation while eliminating
the potential for leakage around a wood curb. This unit is easily
installed by placing it directly over the roof opening and fastening it
through the flange.

5.1.4. BUILT-IN CRANK SYSTEM

It allows operation with a hand crank or optional extension pole. The
venting system is chain driven for better control and provides airtight
closure when required.

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5.2. INSTALLING SKYLIGHT

5.2.1. PREPARING THE ROOF OPENING

Square the finished roof opening dimensions for the skylight
between the roof rafters. When a rafter must be cut away
from the opening, measure 1 ½ inch beyond the finished roof
opening dimensions on the upper and lower sides of the
proposed opening

5.2.2. CUTTING THE ROOF OPENING

Drive a nail up through the roof at each designated corner
point. Go to the roof and remove the shingles covering the
proposed opening, as indicated by the nails. Remove
shingles 12 to 14 inches beyond the proposed opening at the
top and on both sides, leaving the bottom row of shingles in
place. Draw connecting lines between the nails and cut a hole
in the roof using a saber saw or circular saw set to a depth of
about 1 inch.

5.2.3. FRAMING THE ROOF OPENING

Frame the roof opening at the bottom and top by cutting two
sections of lumber to fit between the existing rafters under the
roof deck. When working a hole, position each header under
the roof deck to align with the top and bottom of the edges of
the roof opening, and secure it with nails.

5.2.4. MOUNTING THE SKYLIGHT

Apply a layer of roof mastic (¼ inch deep) around the outer
edge of the roof opening, 3 to 4 inches wide. For installation
made on a pitched roof, you have to rotate the skylight until
the runoff diverter strip is positioned at the top side of the roof
openings

5.2.5. SEALING INSTALLATION

Select a flashing material that will seal 3 sides of the
installation area. You may want to use metal, aluminum or
asphalt, select a minimum 30-pound rolled asphalt. Apply a
layer
of roof mastic to cover the exterior deck at the top and on both
sides of the skylight. Spread the mastic to completely cover
the deck flange

5.2.6. REPLACING SHINGLES

Apply a layer of mastic to completely cover the asphalt around
th skylight. Starting at the bottom, replace each row of shingle.
Trim it around the skylight where necessary

5.2.7. FRAMING THE CEILING OPENING

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The ceiling opening maybe framed using procedures that apply to the framing of any roof opening. Using
the same dimensional lumber as existing ceiling joints, cut the header to fit between the joists, and secure
them in place with nails

5.2.8. CONSTRUCTING THE LIGHT SHAFT

The light shaft is constructed with bevel –cut 2x4 inch lumber hung vertically from the corners of the roof
frame to the ceiling frame. Right angles are formed 2x4 at each corner of the proposed shaft to provide a
nailing surface for the shaft liner. Additional 2x4 nailers are spaced to reinforce the shaft frame.

6. GLASS AND GLAZZING

6.1. TYPES OF GLASS

6.1.2. TRANSPARENT GLASS

These transmit light and permit clear vision through them ; they include
sheet glass and clear plate glass. Sheet glass has natural fire-finished
surfaces and as the two surfaces are never perfectly flat and parallel,
they is always some distortion of vision and reflection. It varies in
thickness from 2.0 to 6.75mm

6.1.3. FLOAT OR POLISHED PLATE GLASS

Has flat and parallel surfaces providing clear undistorted vision
and reflection, produced either by grinding and polishing or by the
float process. Generally, clear float glass has superseded polished
plate glass in thickness up to 25mm, normally 6mm.

6.1.4. TRANSLUCENT GLASSES

These transmit light with varying degrees of diffusion so that vision is
not clear. They include rough-cast glass, rolled glass, fluted and rib
glass, reeded glass, and cathedral and figured rolled glass. Shallow
patterns give a partial degree of diffusion while the deeper patterns
almost completely obscure.

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6.1.5. OPAL GLASSES

This may be white or coloured and have light-scattering properties due
to the inclusion of small particles in the glass

6.1.6. GLASSES FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES

Probably the most important is the wired glass with a wire mesh
embedded in it, which holds the glass together on fracture, and is well
suited for roof lights and similar situations. Georgian wired cast glass
is translucent glass with rough cast finish and contains electrically
welded 12mm square wire mesh.

6.1.7. PRISMATIC GLASS

A translucent rolled glass, one surface of which consist of parallel
prisms, while heat-absorbing glass is almost opaque to infra-red
radiation and usually has a bluish green tin.

a. HEAT RESISTING SHEET GLASS- ha as low coefficient of expansion and greater resistance to
changes of temperature
b. TROUGHENED GLASS – has increase resistance to external forces
c. LAMINATED SAFETY GLASS – is less likely to cause severe cuts on fracture
d. MIRROR GLASS – is clear plate glass silvered on one place
e. LEADED GLASS – are panels consisting of small pieces of glass held together with lead cames
COPPER LIGHTS – sometime used in the window of small
houses to give scale

6.1.8. HOLLOW GLASS BLOCKS

It can be used in non-load bearing partitions to permit light
transmittance. The blocks or brick are available in two standard
sizes, 240 x 240x 80mm and 190 x 190 x 80mm. They are hollow,
translucent glass units with various patterns moulded on their
interior and exterior faces or on both; they are normally jointed in
a weak-gauged mortar such as 1:1:8.

6.2. GLAZING
Prior to the glazing, timber rebate should be cleaned, primed and painted with
one coat of oil paint, and metal rebates cleaned and primed in accordance with
the recommendations of CP 159. Glass should be cut to allow a small
clearance at all edges and then be back puttied l, by laying putty along the
entire rebates and bedding the glass solidly, sprigged for timber rebates, neatly
front puttied, taking care ti ensure that the putty does not appear above the
sight lines. Putty used for timber rebates should be linseed oil putty conforming
to BS 544, while that for metal rebates should be approved metal casement
putty.

6.2.1. DOUBLE GLAZING AND DOUBLE WINDOWS

Various double glazing and double window systems are available
stemming from the increasing demand for improved heat insulation in
buildings. The optimum width of air space for vertical double glazing is
usually taken as 20mm, although width down to 12mm is almost

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equally effective. An air space 12 to 20mm wide haves the thermal transmittance, thus with normal
exposure the thermal transmittance of single glazing is 5.6 and that of double glazing W/m C. For sound
insulation however, a minimum air space of 150mm is required, although 200 to 300 mm is desirable.

a. FACTORY SCALED UNITS

Sealed units with fused all-glass edges are begun increasingly used as well as those with a welded
glass-to-metal seal, but where use is made of flat sheets of glass bonded to spacing strips and sealed,
the edges must be kept dry. Some manufacturers produce double glazing units to fit into the rebates of
standard wood or metal sections l, without the use of beads. Stepped units are used where the frames
are too small or unsuitable for enlargement. Airspace widths normally vary from 3 to 20mm

b. SINGLE-FRAME DOUBLE-GLAZING SYSTEMS SEALED IN SITU

Various arrangements are available including glazing to double rebated frames or fixing second line of
glazing with wood or plastic face beads, generally to existing frames. No matter how well the glazing
seals are made, the cavities cannot be expected to remain airtight indefinitely. The seals may
disintegrate under movement and shrinkage, allowing water vapor to enter the air space and to
condense on the inside of the outer glazing. The wood exposed to the air space should be painted or
varnished into the air space and breather hole should be provided at the rate of one 6mm diameter hole
per 0.5m sq. of window. The should be plugged with glass fiber on nylon to exclude dust and insects

c. COUPLED OR SLIDING DOUBLE SASHES

These may be of wood or metal pivoted with openable coupled sashes, or sliding with pairs of metal
sliders in the same frame. The inner sashes should be well sealed when closed together, and in
coupled pivoted type, a ventilating slot is often left around the periphery of the outer sash, to ventilate
the air space externally when the sashes are closed, and to reduce the risk of condensation

6.2.2. TRIPLE GLAZED WINDOW

These windows, when properly installed, have an extensive array of benefits. More rigid and durable than
traditional windows, triple glazed windows have an outstanding insulation performance, especially in areas
with extreme weather. They also are resistant to condensation and reduce sound transmission.Their three
layers of glass also provide increased security –– the thicker area is harder for vandals to break.
Additionally, they offer great energy savings when compared to regular and double glazed
windows.Installing triple glazed windows is equivalent to upgrading your walls and ceilings from R-20 to R-
40 (in certain circumstances), and they can decrease relative heat loss, which increases thermal comfort
inside.

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6.2.3. PATENT GLAZING

Patent glazing is used extensively for roof and vertical glazing, particularly in industrial and commercial
buildings, on account of its high durability and light transmittance properties. The recommended minimum
slope when used un roof is 15°. A typical patent glazing bar us incorporated with a rolled steel bulb tee bar
sheated in unplasticised PVC to form internal condensation channels and an unplasticised PVC cap to
form a watertight joint with the glass. The glass is seated on grease asbestos cord. Another form of patent
glazing bar is of aluminium alloy with aluminium wings or cap to provide a watertight joint.

7. COMMON DEFECTS AND REMEDIES

COMMON DEFECTS POSSIBLE CAUSES RECOMMENDATIONS

7.1. FUNCTIONALITY
a. Water seepage through
window frame
b. Water seepage through
joints between window frame
and wall
 Poor workmanship during
fabrications and installation of
frames and gaskets
 Poor detailing of top frame
 Poor tolerances of wall
openings
 Poor workmanship during
grouting/ sealing of gaps
 To review the design to ensure
suitable drainage paths exist
with sufficient ventilation and
internal air seals in the window
frames
 To shield the window from direct
rainfall through better design
 To fabricate and assemble as
many components as possible in
factory
 To use mechanical tools to
achieve the required fabrication
tolerances
 To ensure the use of gaskets
with compatible profile
 To ensure no physical damages
to the frames and gaskets
 To carry out field water tightness
test
 To shield the window from direct
rainfall through better design
 To use precast walls for better
dimensional tolerances and
finishing
 To ensure the size of the gap
between wall and the frame
conform to the specified
tolerances
 To ensure correct usage of grout
and sealant to seal the gaps,
depending on the gap sizes
 To ensure proper application

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c. Difficulty in opening and
closing of glass panel
d. Difficulty in sliding of inner
panel (for sliding window)
7.2. ALIGNMENT & EVENNESS
a. Misalignment
7.3. JOINTS & GAPS
a. Untidy joints between
window frame and wall
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 Misalignment of frames and
glass panels
 Improper installation of friction
stays and pivot hinges
 Improper protection resulting
in debris ingress to friction
stay track
 Improper alignment of frames
and inner panels
 Damages to rollers and sliding
tracks
 Improper setting out of wall
openings
 Improper alignment and plumb
of window frame during
installation
 Poor workmanship during
installation
and compacting of grout or
sealant
 To carry out field watertightness
test
 To verify the alignment and
plumb of the outer frames and
inner panels
 To check the physical conditions
of friction stays
 To lubricate the pivot hinges
 To clear track off all debris
 To verify the alignment of the
outer frames and inner panels
 To protect the sliding tracks
during installation. Dirt or debris
must be cleared prior to
installation of inner panels
 To restrict the usage of the
sliding windows prior to handing
over
 To check that the setting out of
wall opening conform to
specifications
 To verify the alignment and
plumb of window frame during
installation
 To protect the frame with
suitable tapes during application
of sealant or during painting
 WINDOWS

b. Gaps at window frame  Poor workmanship during  To carry out cutting and
c fabrication and installation assembly of frames using
o  Mishandling during delivery mechanical tools
r and storage  To protect the frames during
n delivery and storage
e
r

7.4. MATERIALS & DAMAGES

a. Stained glazing  Inadequate protection during  To protect the glazing properly.
delivery, storage and Protection should remain intact
installation until all works are completed

b. Poor frame finish
 Poor workmanship during
fabrication
 Poor rectification works
 To inspect the quality of finishes
before delivery and prior to
installation
 Any rectification works should be
carried out effectively

c. Mortar droppings and paint  • Inadequate protection during  To provide adequate protection
drips on frame installation to the frame. Protection should
remain intact until all works are
completed

ARC 152 / ARC 152.1 ● BUILDING TECHNOLOGY 3 – CONCRETE AND STEEL CONSTRUCTION
PamantasanngLungsodngMaynila – COLLEGE OF ARCHITECTURE AND URBAN PLANNING

d. Physical damages and
scratches on frame and
glazing
7.5. ACCESSORIES DEFECTS
a. Loose or improperly
installed gaskets
b. Physical damages
ARC 152 / ARC 152.1 ● BUILDING TECHNOLOGY 3 – CONCRETE AND STEEL CONSTRUCTION
PamantasanngLungsodngMaynila – COLLEGE OF ARCHITECTURE AND URBAN PLANNING
WINDOWS
 Inadequate protection during
fabrication, delivery, storage
and installation
 Use of gaskets with
incompatible profile
 Use of gaskets with
inadequate length
 Poor workmanship during
installation
 Inadequate protection during
fabrication, delivery, storage
and installation
 • To inspect the component
before delivery and prior to
installation
 To provide proper storage space
• To minimize unnecessary
handling during delivery, storage
and installation
 To provide adequate protection
to frames and glazing. Protection
should be kept in tact until all
works are completed
 To check that gasket size and
profile are compatible to the
frame
 To ensure that sufficient length
of gasket is used
 To ensure proper workmanship
during installation, especially at
the corners
 • To provide adequate protection
for all accessories. Protection
should be kept in tact until all
works are completed
 WINDOWS

REFERENCES

Miller, Mark R.(2010). Carpentry and construction. (5thed). McGraw Hill Companies. Inc.

Jeld Wen Windows and Doors Installation, Instructions For Aluminum Windows With Nail Fin (Jii004)
https://images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfImages/7c/7c1a9281-d59e-41c0-9fd6-0dc7af671ee1.pdf

Building and Construction Authority

https://www.bca.gov.sg/Professionals/Iquas/gpgs/AWindow/AWDefectsRemedies.pdf

IX. WINDOW INSTALLATION

6. REPLACEMENT VS. NEW CONSTRUCTION

1.2 INSTALLATION DIFFERENCES
1.1.3. REPLACEMENT WINDOW
1.1.4. NEW CONSTRUCTION
7. WINDOW MATERIAL OPTION
2.6. . VINYL WINDOWS
2.7. WOOD FRAME WINDOWS
2.8. ALUMINUM FRAME WINDOWS
2.9. FIBER GLASS WINDOWS
2.10. COMPOSITE WINDOWS
8. IDENTIFYING WINDOW
3.15. PICTURE WINDOW
3.16. DOUBLE HUNG WINDOW
3.17. SINGLE HUNG WINDOW
3.18. SLIDER WINDOW
3.19. AWNING WINDOW
3.20. CASEMENT WINDOW
3.21. TRANSOM WINDOW
3.22. BAY WINDOW
3.23. BOW WINDOW
3.24. GARDEN WINDOW
3.25. MULLED WINDOW
3.26. JALOUSIE WINDOW
3.27. CUSTOM BUILT WINDOWS
3.28. HEAT DAMAGED WINDOWS
9. SEQUENCE OF INSTALLATION OF THE WINDOW
4.2. PREPARING THE ROUGH OPENING FOR THE WINDOW
9.2 INSTALLING A WOOD WINDOW
4.2.3. MASONRY OR BRICK VENEER WALL WINDOW
4.2.4. INSTALLING WINDOWS BY NAILING THE FLANGE TO THE SHEATING
9.3 INSTALLING A METAL WINDOW
4.3.6. REMOVE PACKAGING & INSPECT WINDOW
4.3.7. PREPARE BUCK
4.3.8. PREPARE STUD-FRAMED WALL
4.3.9. INSTALL WINDOW
4.3.10. COMPLETE INSTALLATION
10. SKYLIGHTS
6.2. FOUR BASIC TYPES OF SKYLIGHTS

ARC 152 / ARC 152.1 ● BUILDING TECHNOLOGY 3 – CONCRETE AND STEEL CONSTRUCTION
PamantasanngLungsodngMaynila – COLLEGE OF ARCHITECTURE AND URBAN PLANNING
 WINDOWS

6.2.1. FLUSH-MOUNT TYPE

6.2.2. CURB-MOUNT TYPE
6.2.3. SELF-CURBING TYPE
6.2.4. BUILT-IN CRANK SYSTEM
6.3. INSTALLING SKYLIGHT
6.3.1. PREPARING THE ROOF OPENING
6.3.2. CUTTING THE ROOF OPENING
6.3.3. FRAMING THE ROOF OPENING
6.3.4. MOUNTING THE SKYLIGHT
6.3.5. SEALING INSTALLATION
6.3.6. REPLACING SHINGLES
6.3.7. FRAMING THE CEILING OPENING
6.3.8. CONSTRUCTING THE LIGHT SHAFT
7. GLASS AND GLAZZING
7.1. TYPES OF GLASS
6.2.2. TRANSPARENT GLASS
6.2.3. FLOAT OR POLISHED PLATE GLASS
6.2.4. TRANSLUCENT GLASSES
6.2.5. OPAL GLASSES
6.2.6. GLASSES FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES
6.2.7. PRISMATIC GLASS
6.2.8. HOLLOW GLASS BLOCKS
6.3. GLAZING
7.2.1. DOUBLE GLAZING AND DOUBLE WINDOWS
7.2.2. PATENT GLAZING
8. COMMON DEFECTS AND REMEDIES
7.1. FUNCTIONALITY
7.2. ALIGNMENT & EVENNESS
7.3. JOINTS & GAPS
7.4. MATERIALS & DAMAGES
7.5. ACCESSORIES DEFECTS

ARC 152 / ARC 152.1 ● BUILDING TECHNOLOGY 3 – CONCRETE AND STEEL CONSTRUCTION
PamantasanngLungsodngMaynila – COLLEGE OF ARCHITECTURE AND URBAN PLANNING