Must See - Chinatown.: Museum of Chinese in America

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Must See – Chinatown.

With one of the densest populations of Chinese immigrants in the western


hemisphere, Manhattan's Chinatown is a true New York story, the American Dream
in action. The thriving immigrant population gives visitors access to far-flung wares
and culinary delights, and to walk these streets is to walk through NYC's past (it's
where much of the action in Martin Scorsese's Gangs of New York took place,
though back in the era portrayed in the movie it was known as Five Points). A great
starting point is Chatham Square, which is the intersection of eight streets (including
major arteries like the Bowery and Mott Street)—a metaphor, perhaps, for the
neighborhood's confluence of cultures. History buffs can admire Chatham Square's
statue of Lin Zexu, a Qing Dynasty official who led the fight against Britain's illegal
importation of opium. But most of us will want to start eating and shopping our way
through the busy streets—there's a backstory in every bite. Read on to learn more
about Chinatown's most exciting attractions.

Museum of Chinese in America


215 Centre St., 212-619-4785

Since reopening in 2009 in a converted industrial space designed by Maya Lin, this
museum of the Chinese-American experience, founded in 1980, has become
Chinatown's most refined tourist attraction. The permanent exhibition space is
devoted to telling the turbulent and relatively short history of the Chinese in this
country, from the Chinese Exclusion Act of 1882 to the influence of Bruce Lee right
up to today. The exhibitions are slick (floating projections and beautiful photographs
abound) and interactive (sit in a worn wooden chair to hear the questions Chinese
immigrants were subjected to upon arrival to this country). On the first Thursday of
each month, the museum stays open till 9pm and admission is free.
Aji Ichiban
37 Mott St.,212-233-7650

If you're new to the world of Asian candies and snacks, a trip to Aji Ichiban—more
commonly known as Munchies Paradise—provides an essential crash course. The
store is packed with all manner of sweets and savories in clear bins, so you see
exactly what a flan-filled marshmallow or haw-flavored candy looks like before
committing. Products are sold individually instead of in packages, so feel free to buy
just a handful of those lychee milk hard candies and a couple of each variety of sweet
pickled plum (sometimes sour, sometimes salty). You'll also find savory snacks, like
wasabi peas, Japanese rice crackers and even dried squid and cuttlefish. And the
store's open-tasting policy welcomes those who are just curious.

New Kam Man


200 Canal St.,212-571-0330

This tri-level grocery store is a one-stop shop for more than just Chinese ingredients
and staples. You'll find a roasted-meats station near the front of the store, where you
can have prepared pork and duck chopped to order, and a noodle bar toward the
back that serves soups, bubble milk tea and other treats. There's even an area
devoted to medicinal herbs, and the top floor is given over to beauty supplies. Most
of New Kam Man's expansive lower level is filled with housewares. It carries all
manner of fuzzy-logic rice makers and Japanese water boilers, as well as one of the
most extensive selections of dishware in the neighborhood (especially now that Pearl
River has moved to SoHo). One side of the floor has traditional Chinese porcelain,
the other has dishes, bowls and cups imported from Japan. The chopsticks and
chopsticks holders range in style from the whimsical (think “Lucky Cat”) to the
refined—and make an easy-to-pack souvenir.
Columbus Park
Between Bayard and Worth Streets, and between Mulberry and Baxter Streets

To get a glimpse of the diversity of the neighborhood, head to Columbus Park, where
the scene is usually bustling, especially on weekends. You're sure to find amateur
troupes of Chinese-opera performers stationed throughout the park, residents
playing mah-jongg and cards, folks practicing tai chi and learning kung fu, and the
stray fortune-teller or two. In the summer, you might even stumble upon a symphony
of singing birds, as pet owners often hang their birds' cages in the trees during the
morning. Active types might take advantage of the 3.2-acre park's sports facilities:
an Astroturf field for pickup games of soccer and volleyball; a basketball court; and,
at the south end of the park, a large playground, complete with sprinklers and a
wading pool for children.

Kamwo Herbal Pharmacy


211 Grand St., 212-966-6370

Kamwo, one of the oldest and largest herbal pharmacies in the country, is a vintage
apothecary in action. The walls are lined with drawers of medicinal herbs, which
herbalists measure out with handheld scales. While the store mainly caters to
practitioners of Chinese medicine, it also sells over-the-counter remedies for
common ailments, like coughs and sore throats, and herbal patches for sore muscles
and arthritic pain. “We're like an herbal Duane Reade,” says CEO Thomas Leung.
There are also licensed acupuncturists on hand (treatments $70–$120). Even if
you're in perfect health, Kamwo is a great source for items like fine loose-leaf Asian
teas and cooking ingredients such as cinnamon sticks, cloves, star anise and goji
berries.
Jing Fong
20 Elizabeth St.,212-964-5256

Dim sum can be just a meal—or it can be an experience. If you're up for the latter,
few restaurants bring it on as fully as Jing Fong. The venue is massive—it just might
be the City's largest traditional Cantonese restaurant—with one room that's big
enough to host multiple banquets at once (as sometimes happens). During peak
hours, the scale is a blessing; you'll rarely have to wait for a table. Unless your party
is large enough to fill one of the restaurant's 120 oversize round tables, expect to sit
communally with other noshers. The popularity of the restaurant ensures the
traditional fare that makes its way through the restaurant—everything from shrimp
dumplings to pig knuckles—turns over quickly. And if you're in the mood for more
than small plates, you can order from a standard menu. The restaurant has more
than 100 dishes on offer.

Mahayana Buddhist Temple


133 Canal St., 212-925-8787

If you find shopping, eating and karaoke aren't bringing you any closer to the noble
truths, pay a visit to the Mahayana Buddhist Temple. It's free, open to the public and
offers a large meditation area with plenty of space to rest and reflect under the gaze
of a 16-foot-high golden Buddha. Just don't expect silence here; there's usually a
festive sound track playing (this is New York City, after all). While the giant Buddha
is the temple's main attraction, don't miss the series of intricate ivory carvings on
display in the second-floor gift shop (none are for sale), including a depiction of the
assembly on Vulture's Peak, carved into a whole elephant tusk.
Nom Wah Tea Parlor
13 Doyers St., 212-962-6047

Originally opened in 1920, Nom Wah Tea Parlor is NYC's oldest dim sum parlor and
is located in the heart of Chinatown. This throwback gem was recently remodeled,
but it retains the old-timey charm that has kept it buzzing for almost a century.
Longtime regulars and first-timers enjoy the incredible dim sum, such as har gow (a
traditional Chinese shrimp dumpling) and the “original” egg roll (mixed veggies and
chicken rolled in an egg crepe and then fried), plus other dishes like traditional pan-
fried noodles.

Paris Sandwich
113 Mott St., 212-226-7221
213 Grand St., 212-266-3828

There's more to Chinatown than Chinese food. You'll also find terrific Vietnamese
spots scattered throughout the neighborhood. For a casual lunch, a bánh mì
sandwich is hard to beat. These Vietnamese subs are filled with various meats—
grilled pork, shredded chicken or even sardines—topped with fresh and pickled
vegetables, garnished with cilantro and served on a long toasted roll. Many foodies
hail the sandwiches at Bánh Mì Saigon Bakery as the best in the City. But for a more
varied menu, check out Paris Sandwich. In addition to standard Vietnamese fare,
the spot also makes a simple ham-and-cheese sandwich (on its signature
Vietnamese roll, of course). The bánh kep—a sweet green-tea waffle—is a perfect
midday snack, especially when paired with a cup of strong Vietnamese coffee with
sweetened condensed milk. On hot days, try the nuoc da chanh muoi—an ice-cold
salted lemonade.

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