2 ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

EDITORIAL

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND

Summer 2018

ALEXANDER KUZNETSOV
Editor-in-Chief

E D I TO R- I N - C H I E F
D I S C OV E R YO U R S U M M E R !
Alexander Kuznetsov SUMMER IN LAPLAND is rather
+358 400 82 55 70 short. It might even feel like it’s only a
hello@allaboutlapland.fi little break between the winters! There’s
not a minute to waste.
E D I TO R I like to spend my summers wandering
Julia Benzar on top of the fells and in pristine forests.
I admire the Midnight Sun and capture
CHINESE CONTENT its magical passage over the horizon
Yiyun Zha with my camera. In end-July, Lapland’s
nature starts giving us its wonderful
P H OTO S BY gifts: cloudberries and wild blueberries.
Alexander Kuznetsov, Julia Benzar, I pick as much of them as my freezer can
Rayann Elzein, Harri Tarvainen, Anna fit:  they will be a great treat during the
Pakkanen, Virpi Mäkilä, advertisers. dark winter months!
In end-August, the northern lights
C I RC U L AT I O N are visible again. I use every opportunity
50.000 copies to capture their dance. September is the
ISSN 2343-3981 best time for hiking: the mosquito season
is over, but the beauty of the golden
P R I N T E D BY autumn is just starting to kick in.
Forssa Print, Finland, 2018
In summer, we also like to enjoy some
water activities. Every real Finn wants
to escape to the summer cottage on a
lakeshore and go swimming, fishing or
just to relax. By the way, you too can
go out for canoeing excursions, guided
fishing trips, or even rafting adventures.
And what a pleasure it is to jump into the
cool water after the warm Finnish Sauna!
Lapland’s national parks with their
amazing trails and the world’s cleanest air
are waiting for you. Pack your backpack
and go out for a hike!
Summer in Lapland is full of discoveries.
Here everyone will find something fun to
do, from exploring the great outdoors, to
meeting with Santa. This magazine offers
many tips on how to enjoy summer on
and above the Arctic Circle. I hope you
will experience Lapland to the fullest!

D I G I TA L V E R S I O N
issuu.com/allaboutlapland

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND

www.allaboutlapland.fi

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VK.com/allaboutlapland
Use #allaboutlapland tag for repost! Midnight Sun River Activities Golden Autumn

D I S T R I B U T I O N
ROVANIEMI: Rovaniemi Tourist Office, Rovaniemi Airport, Arktikum, Science Centre Pilke, Korundi House of Culture, Shopping
Centres Revontuli, Rinteenkulma & Sampokeskus, Cafe&Bar 21, Sokos Hotel Vaakuna, Cumulus Resort Pohjanhovi, Lapland Hotel
Sky Ounasvaara, Hotel Aakenus, Prisma Rovaniemi, HopLop & Rollo Halli, Rova-Motelli. SANTA CLAUS VILLAGE: Santa Claus Office,
Santa Claus Holiday Village, Santa Claus Post Office, Arctic Circle Information. RANUA: Wildlife Park. LEVI: S-Market Levi, Break
Sokos Hotel Levi, Levi Tourist Office. KITTILÄ: Hotel Kittilä. YLLÄS: Jounin Kauppa, 7 Fells Hostel, Visitor Centre Kellokas, Lapland
Hotels Saaga. PYHÄ: Ski-Inn Hotel Pyhätunturi, Visitor Centre Naava. LUOSTO: Santa’s Hotel Aurora, Lapland Hotel Luosto, Little
Mine Shop. SAARISELKÄ: Holiday Club Saariselkä, Santa’s Hotel Tunturi. IVALO: Hotel Ivalo, Aurora Village, Rajajooseppi border
crossing. KEMIJÄRVI: ABC! station. SALLA: S-Market Salla, Hotel Takka Valkea, Holiday Club Salla, Kelloselkä border crossing. RUKA:
Ruka Tourist Info, Shopping Centre Kumpare, Scandic Rukahovi. KUUSAMO: Prisma Kuusamo, Holiday Club Kuusamo, Kuusamo
Tourist Info. KEMI: Kemi Airport, Kemi Snow Castle. OULU: Oulu Tourist Office, Nallikari Camping. KAJAANI: Vartius border crossing.
 FIRST BY NATURE.

Biking PICK OF THE SEASON

Ylläs became Finland’s most versatile year-round biking

destination in summer 2017, when the trails in Pallas-
Yllästunturi National Park were opened for bikers.
The network of biking trails that starts from Ylläs offers
terrain for bikers of all ages and skill levels.

Eight seasons. Seven fells. Two villages. One national park with the world’s cleanest air.
Explore and discover throughout the year in Ylläs, Lapland, Finland.

www.yllas.fi
 Summer 2018
N E WS
ARCTIC RAILWAY 6
RUKA SKI RESORT EXPANDS 8
RANUA BUILDS ARCTIC FOX IGLOOS 9
THE ROYAL RACES 2018 IN ROVANIEMI 10

TIPS
WILDEST HERBS COME FROM THE NORTH!
FOREST GOODNESS FROM ARCTIC SUPERFOODS
12
13
34
EDUCATION IN LAPLAND 14
TAIGAKORU JEWELLERY 16
MARTTIINI FACTORY TURNS 90 YEARS 18
GIFTS FROM FINLAND 20
23

28 44
ROVANIEMI MAP
RAKAS RESTAURANT 24
ROVANIEMI FOODIE TIPS 25
7 X FAMILY FUN 28
KORUNDI HOUSE OF CULTURE 32
ARKTIKUM & PILKE 33 Л Е ТО 20 1 8
ENJOYING SUMMER SANTA’S WAY 34 ПОЛЕЗНАЯ ИНФОРМАЦИЯ 59
SANTA CLAUS VILLAGE 36 ХОСТЕЛ «НЕ КАК У ВСЕХ» 61
THE ISLAND OF HAILUOTO 38 ОБРАЗОВАНИЕ В ФИНЛЯНДИИ 62
THE AMETHYST MINE 39 ИЗ КАЗАХСТАНА В ЛАПЛАНДИЮ 63
HOOKED ON TRAIL RUNNING 40 ДЕТСКИЙ МИР 64
АМЕТИСТОВЫЙ РУДНИК 65
EXPERIENCES ОРАНЖЕВАЯ ГОРКА 66
ЛАПЛАНДСКИЕ СУВЕНИРЫ 68
SECRETS OF THE HORN 42
КУЛЬТУРА РОВАНИЕМИ 69
KAFFE & HARRI: THE PERFECT DYNAMIC DUO 44
РЕСТОРАНЫ РОВАНИЕМИ 70
ALONE WITH YOUR HEAD IN PYHÄ 48
МАГИЯ ШАМАНСКОГО БУБНА 72
YLLÄS, THE OUTDOOR HEAVEN 50
ДЕРЕВНЯ САНТА КЛАУСА 73
THE AURORA ESTATE IN YLLÄS 52
ENCHANTED BY LEVI 54
LAPLAND, PHOTOGRAPHER’S PARADISE 56
目录
中文，一往而情深 74
在北极圈学商 77
拉普兰有什么好玩的 78
灿烂的拉普兰夏天 80
芬兰旅行须知 83
罗瓦涅米文化之旅 84
欢迎来到冰雪之境 85

42 56
倏忽一夏 @ 罗瓦涅米 86
拉普兰纪念品 89
圣诞老人的家乡 90

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018 5

 NEWS IN LAPLAND | ARCTIC RAILWAY

R AYA N N E L Z E I N
The Sami reindeer herder Petri Mattus would be one of the reindeer herders affected by the Arctic Railway.

Finland plans to build the Arctic

railway through Sami homelands
In March 2018, the Finnish Ministry
of Transport and Communications
announced a plan to build an Arctic
railway line through the Inari region to
Kirkenes, Norway. Inari is the centre
of Finnish Sami culture and the railway
would bring significant changes to the
livelihoods of the residents. Currently, the
terminal station of the line is located at
the city of Rovaniemi. The Arctic Railway
would link Rovaniemi with the Norwegian
port of Kirkenes and give Finland access
to ice-free Arctic Ocean. With the Arctic
Railway, Finland aims to improve its A report by Ramboll Finland Ltd, due to the seasonal nature of tourism.
logistical position and establish a link to commissioned by the Ministry, states However, the investment costs for the
the Northeast Passage. The line could that all the Arctic Railway alternatives Rovaniemi-Kirkenes line would be sky-
become an attractive and faster shipping are equally unprofitable. The study high. The report says that the estimated
route between Europe and Asia in the estimates that the transport potential construction costs of the 465-km railway
near future, as the Arctic ice pack keeps for the Rovaniemi-Kirkenes route would line are 2,063 million euros for Finland
melting due to the climate change. mainly consist of phosphate and iron and 856 million euros for Norway.
The Ministry investigated several ore from the Sokli mine in Savukoski, Despite the negative profitability
railway line options, and the route from copper and nickel ore from the Kevitsa estimates, there is great support for the
Rovaniemi to Kirkenes was chosen for mine, raw timber, and some Norwegian Arctic Railway among the Finnish officials
future development. Other alternatives transports. In regard to passenger and politicians. In her press release,
were Kiruna–Narvik and Kolari–Narvik traffic, the report concludes that the Anne Berner, the Minister of Transport
that would have passed through Sweden, most significant potential would only and Communications, says that Finland
the Kolari-Tromsø line that would have concern the Rovaniemi-Sodankylä part must be part of the global logistical
led to Norway, and the Kemijärvi–Salla– of the line (130 km). Running passenger network. According to Minister Berner,
Murmansk line that would have led to traffic between Rovaniemi and Kirkenes the Arctic Railway is the most important
Russia. would not be commercially viable project to achieve this. During the Arctic

6 ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

 NEWS IN LAPLAND | ARCTIC RAILWAY
The Arctic Railway would pass in the proximity of Lake Inarijärvi which is renowned for its beautiful views.
Forum 2018 event in Helsinki, the former
Finnish Prime Minister Matti Vanhanen,
currently the Chair of the Foreign
Affairs Committee, mentioned that the
construction of the Arctic Railway is a
“question of credibility” for the country.  “The Arctic Railway is a great threat
The Ministry’s decision to pursue
the Rovaniemi-Kirkenes line came as a
surprise for both the reindeer herders and
the Sami community. In January 2018, the
The Arctic Railway is a great threat to
the Sami culture, because it puts the
traditional Sami livelihoods in jeopardy.
Ministry did negotiate on the matter with
the Sami Parliament, the representative
self-government body of the Sami in
Finland. Tiina Sanila-Aikio, President of
the Sami Parliament, has publicly stated
that the Rovaniemi-Kirkenes line was not
specifically discussed and that the Sami
Parliament was led to believe that none of
the railway line options were economically
viable or realistic to build.
Since the decision was announced, the
Sami community has been rather vocal
in their opposition of the Arctic Railway.
According to Pirita Näkkäläjärvi, the Sami
Person of the Year 2017 and spokesperson
for the Sami people, the Rovaniemi-
Kirkenes decision was a bucket of cold
water on the Sami community.
“The Arctic Railway would contribute
to climate change”, says Pirita. “There
will be more pressure for drilling and
searching for natural resources in the
Arctic region. The Arctic Railway would
cut right through the Sami homelands
and introduce heavy infrastructure to the
vulnerable area near Lake Inarijärvi.”
Pirita Näkkäläjärvi was born near Lake
Inarijärvi. She believes that the Arctic
Railway would damage tourism, an
important livelihood for the local people,
because the quietness and nature of the
area is the reason why many tourists
come to Inari. Moreover, she thinks that
the railway would endanger the existence
of the entire Sami culture and reindeer
herding.
to the Sami culture, because it puts the
traditional Sami livelihoods in jeopardy”,
says Pirita. “The Sami culture is based on
proximity with nature. If the traditional
livelihoods of reindeer herding and fishing
remain strong, it means that the Sami
culture and language will also flourish”.
Reindeer husbandry has been practised
in Lapland for thousands of years. The
reindeer population varies between
220,000 and 290,000, depending on the
time of the year. Most of the reindeer can
roam free through the grazing lands.
Anne Ollila, Executive Director of
Reindeer Herders’ Association, says that
the Rovaniemi-Kirkenes line would be
most damaging to reindeer herding.
“Statements were requested from us
during the years when this matter was
under investigation. However, they were
not really taken into consideration”, says
Anne Ollila.
“The natural reindeer migration routes
between summer and winter pastures
would be cut off. We also fear that a large
number of reindeer will end up being
killed by the trains”, says Ollila.
Annually, around 300 reindeer get run
over by trains on the existing tracks in
southern Lapland. The Arctic Railway
would run through areas where the
reindeer population is significant, and
thousands of animals could be killed.
One way to prevent this is to build fences
around the track, but according to Anne
Ollila, this would cut off the reindeer
migratory routes and the losses would
still be significant. Compensation for
killed reindeer is paid by the state, but,
according to Anne, the sum is not big
enough to compensate for the financial
losses. In her opinion, reindeer should not
end up getting killed this way at all.
The Sami reindeer herder Petri Mattus
would be one of the reindeer herders
affected by the Arctic Railway in the Inari
region. He herds his reindeer in the village
of Menesjärvi, continuing the centuries-
old family tradition. He also organises
reindeer activities for tourists, giving
them an insight into reindeer herding.
Petri agrees with Anne Ollila in
that the railway would contribute to
reindeer deaths and fragment their
grazing pastures. For him, it is difficult
to understand the reasons behind the
construction of the railway:
“I understood that the railway was
estimated to be unprofitable”, says Mattus.
”If the ships were able to sail through the
Northeast Passage, why would they stop
at Kirkenes to offload goods onto the
railway when they could sail all the way
from Asia to Europe?”
Petri Mattus feels that the Arctic
Railway project is being pushed ahead
by force. He suspects that one of the
reasons behind the railway is the desire
to introduce mining industry to Northern
Lapland.
“Mining would mean that there is
less land that can be used for reindeer
herding, or for tourism. Tourism has been
growing fast lately, and we have just had a
very good season”.
The Ministry of Transport and
Communications has announced that
a new committee will be formed to
investigate the schedule and future
development stages of the Arctic Railway.
Invitations to participate in the committee
will be extended to the Sami Parliament,
the Regional Council of Lapland, reindeer
herders,   the representatives of the Skolt
Sami Village Council, and the Finnish
Association for Nature Conservation. The
committee will assemble for the first time
in May 2018 and its work will be finished
on 14 December 2018. Anne Ollila and
Pirita Näkkäläjärvi hope that this time the
voices of the Sami people and reindeer
herders will be heard.
ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018 7
 NEWS IN FINLAND | KUUSAMO

New scenic Gondola lift will bring visitors from RukaVillage to RukaValley in 6 minutes, all year round.

Ruka Ski Resort expands with new

RukaValley village & scenic gondola
R
uka Ski Resort in Kuusamo,
Finland is known for its amazing
possibilities for winter sports.
The skiing season lasts here over
200 days from October to May. Tourism is
growing well in the region. International
overnight stays in Kuusamo increased
by 30 % in 2017 and similar growth is
expected in 2018. Beautiful nature, fresh
air, and nordic experiences are just some
of the many reasons to visit Ruka. It is
no wonder that World Ski Awards chose
Ruka as the Finland’s best ski resort in
Western side of Ruka is occupied by pedestrian RukaVillage with hotels and restaurants.
2013, 2014, 2015 and 2016.
Western side of Ruka is occupied by the Transitioning from RukaVillage to Hotel RukaValley will be the most
predestrian RukaVillage with hotels and RukaValley will be easy without a car when high-class Ski-Inn location in Ruka with
restaurants. It was constructed as a part the new gondola is put to use in Fall 2018. 80 rooms and 40 apartments. The hotel
of a master plan conceived 10 years ago. The new scenic gondola traversing across will be constructed with high quality
Construction of the second pedestrian the fell from RukaVillage to RukaValley materials such as Northern wood. Corner
village RukaValley will begin in May 2018. will take skiers, pedestrians and bikers apartments will have outdoor hot tubs
To link the two villages a new Village-2- across the top in 6 minutes, all year round. giving a touch of luxury.
Valley scenic gondola will be constructed. In addition to the scenic gondola, Two restaurants with lobby bars, rental
The RukaValley village will be situated Ruka ski resort is building a new 6-seater store, activity program services and a
between the ski slopes and Valtavaara VillageExpress chairlift to the front minimarket will be situated right next
nature reserve. The slopes, hiking and slopes of RukaVillage. 4-seater chairlift to the hotel reception. Location of Hotel
skiing trails start literally by the door. SaaruaExpress and the renewed Family RukaValley is the best in the village, right
RukaValley will create 1.700 new ski-in Park in the heart of RukaValley opened in beside the gondola and Family Park. The
ski-out bed places. 400 of them will be 2017. These improvements will increase new hotel will open for Christmas 2019.
placed to the new RukaValley hotel. the resort’s ski lift capacity by over 20%. More info: www.ruka.fi/en/valley

8 ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

 NEWS IN LAPLAND | RANUA
Ranua builds luxurious Arctic Fox
Igloo Village for Aurora viewing
R
anua is a small municipality with
under 4,000 inhabitants in Southern
Lapland, 80 kilometres south from
Rovaniemi. The town’s most famous
attraction is the Wildlife Park, which is home
to over 50 species of Arctic animals such as
the polar bear and brown bear, the wolf, the
wolverine, and owls.
Every year, the Ranua Wildlife Park attracts
hundreds of thousands of visitors from all
over the world. With the rapidly growing
tourism, there is demand for high-quality
accommodation in Lapland. Ranua has met
this demand by opening Holiday Village Gulo
Gulo with 20 comfortable timber cottages
right beside the Wildlife Park.
Next, the municipality will take a bold step
and start the construction of a new luxurious
Arctic Fox Igloo Village on the shore of Lake
Ranuanjärvi. The igloos will have transparent
glass walls and roofs that allow the guests to
be completely immersed in nature.
The inspiration for the name of the igloo
village comes from an ancient Finnish folktale.
According to the tale, the Northern Lights are
Luxurious Arctic Fox igloos will be placed on the shore of Lake Ranuanjärvi facing the Northern horizon.
created when the Arctic fox swipes the side of
a fell with its tail, leaving a trail of colourful
sparks in the sky.
Facing the northern horizon and away from
the city lights, the igloos will indeed offer a
great opportunity for admiring the magical
dance of the Auroras. The Northern Lights
can be seen in the Lapland sky over a period
of 8 months, from late August until late April,
on almost 50% of all clear nights. Autumn and
spring are the best seasons for spotting the
Auroras, as then their activity is at its highest.
The igloos will be lavishly equipped, each The igloos will be lavishly equipped,
featuring a bedroom with glass walls, a each featuring a bedroom with glass
walls, a kitchenette, toilet, shower
kitchenette, toilet, and shower. In addition, and sauna.
every igloo will include a private Finnish
sauna. The sauna is a local tradition, a natural
way for the local people to relax and get warm
during the cold winter.
With this new form of accommodation,
Ranua will be able to guarantee an even more
luxurious stay for people visiting the exotic
land of the Lapps. More info & Booking:
The igloos will open on 1 December 2018, info@arcticfoxigloos.fi
but they are already available for booking. www.arcticfoxigloos.com
ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018 9

Rovaniemi to host the biggest event
in its history, The Royal Races 2018
IN SUMMER 2018, Rovaniemi will host the
biggest outdoor event in its history, The
Harness Race for Finnhorse stallions and
mares. Held since 1924, “The Royal Races”
(or Kuninkuusravit in Finnish) is the
official Finnish National Championship
contest for Finnhorses. Since 2004, this is
the second time that the city of Rovaniemi
has been selected to host this prestigious
race.
Harness racing is huge in Finland. There
are over 600 meetings organised annually,
attracting hundreds of thousands of
spectators. Horse betting is also popular
with over €200 million annual turnover.
Finnhorse is the official national horse
breed of Finland. Today, approximately
2,000 Finnhorses are in training, and 3,000
compete in harness racing in Finland.
Owning a Finnhorse is considered
prestigious but expensive. The training
and travelling expenses might rise up
to €15,000–20,000 per year. However,
top horses have been known to earn
thousands if not millions of euros during
their careers.
Only those Finnhorses that have
shown good performance in the races of
2018 will be invited to compete for the
titles of Ravikuningas  (“Trotting King”)
and Ravikuningatar (“Trotting Queen”).
Stallions and mares compete in separate
divisions. Each competition day will hold
13 races featuring over 350 horses in total.
In order to win, the horse must achieve
the best combined time in three races
10 ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018
NEWS IN LAPLAND | ROVANIEMI
Royal Races were previously held in Rovaniemi in 2004 at the Mäntyvaara trotting tracks.
that will be held over the course of two
days. This presents a great challenge to
the endurance of the horses, particularly
the last race of 3100 metres. The total
prize money paid out in the event is
over €50,000, topping any prizes ever
paid out in a Royal Race competition. In
addition to the main event, there will be
a competition for horses from all around
Northern Scandinavia, Sweden and
Norway.
According to Event Manager Tommi
Hinno, The Royal Race 2018 will be the
biggest outdoor event ever experienced in
Rovaniemi.
“We are expecting 50,000–60,000
spectators for the event. I doubt that the
city will ever see an event bigger than this.”
The previous event record was set in
Rovaniemi in 2004, when over 47,000
spectators gathered for the first ever
Royal Races held in the capital of Lapland. Finnhorse is the official national breed of Finland.
Such large-scale events often attract VIPs,
national celebrities, and spectators from several restaurants with a good selection
all over the country and abroad. During of Lapland-inspired food. Non-stop
an event of this magnitude, the hotels shuttle buses will run between the city
and Airbnbs of the city will certainly be centre and Mäntyvaara trotting track. A
booked solid, and the local shops will single-trip ticket costs €5. Private vehicles
enjoy a busy business weekend. are not allowed into the area, but taxis will
The Royal Races 2018 will take place on take you to the destination. The races will
the weekend of 28-29 July at Mäntyvaara start at noon on both days.
trotting track, situated 7 km from the The admittance for Saturday is €33
city centre. The spectator stand, capable and for Sunday €38, and tickets can be
of hosting 30,000 spectators, is a large purchased at the track. Advance tickets
amphitheatre with a great view over cost €5 less and can be purchased from
the track. The guests will be catered by ticketmaster.fi until Thursday 26 July.
 LAPLAND NEWS

TOURIST INFORMATION | SAFARI BOOKINGS | SOUVENIRS | FREE INTERNET ACCESS

Rovaniemi Tourist Information
SH AR E Y O UR EXPER I EN CE!
Lordi’s Square, Maakuntakatu 29–31
Tel. +358 16 346 270, +358 40 829 0676 /visitrovaniemi.fi
@visitrovaniemi @visitrovaniemi
#visitrovaniemi #rovaniemi
info@visitrovaniemi.fi

WWW.VISITROVANIEMI.FI ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018 11


Wildest herbs come from the north!
LOCAL OUTDOOR ENTHUSIAST & SUPERFOOD ENTREPRENEUR TUIJA KAUPPINEN SHARES HER
PASSION ABOUT WILD LAPPISH HERBS AND GIVES A FEW TIPS ON HOW TO USE THEM.
A
s much as I love winter, the increasing
daylight of spring and the nightless
nights of summer make me hyper.
I just want to jump into my canoe and
enjoy the newborn nature filled with all shades and
scents of green. I fill my lungs with the purest air in
the world and exhale the tensions out of my body.
Summer in Lapland is short but very intense.
The continuous daylight allows the plants to grow
24/7, which makes them exceptionally nutritious.
The birch leaves are the very first spring treats. The
new light green leaves, looking like mouse’s ears,
take only a few days to unfold. I park my canoe on
the shore, pick a couple of leaves and eat them raw.
I can feel an immediate energy burst in my body.
The daily dosage of vitamin C is easily filled.
My green “smoothie” in the wild also includes
spruce sprouts. Similar to birch leaves, spruce
sprouts are the new growth of spruce, abundant
with vitamin C and antioxidants. I pick a few and
put them straight into my mouth. They would
make for an excellent syrup, but to pick more of
them I would need the landowner’s permission.
When I move my nose from the trees down to
the ground, I find ingredients for a lunch salad:
fireweed sprouts! The 10-15 centimeter long
sprouts have an intense green colour and a mild
aroma which, in my opinion, wins asparagus 6-0.
Another little green creature is pushing up from
the ground. Nettle makes for a tasty afternoon tea.
If there is one herb that you could bring with you
to a deserted island, nettle would definitely be it!
Nettle has more iron than spinach, more vitamin
12 ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018
T E X T & P H O T O S B Y:
TUIJA KAUPPINEN
Tuija’s company Arctic Warriors
makes 100 % natural superfood
products from the pure and
powerful Arctic herbs. They
are either handpicked from the
forest or grown by the local
farmers. Tuija’s mission is to
make Lapland’s high quality
ingredients known worldwide.
www.arcticwarriors.fi
arcticwarriors
C than an orange and more calcium than milk. It
makes your blood strong, and skin and hair shine.
Just don’t eat this stinging herb without cooking.
On the next canoeing excursion through one of
the wilderness areas in northern Lapland I come
across true Arctic herbs. Angelica Archangelica,
YO E native herb of Lapland and the holy herb for the
S
U NG AV
B I RC H L E Sami people, grows on the banks of rivers and
streams. It is easy to spot from a canoe as the herb
may grow as tall as a man. The whole herb is edible,
but this time I only take a few seeds. They are
efficient cough drops with antibacterial properties.
SP S
RU C UT
E S P RO
Roseroot is a great performance booster.
NETTLE As a nice change to canoeing, I take a little hike
to the fells. My eye sees a real treasure: Rhodiola
rosea, also known as the roseroot. It has beautiful
flowers and a rosy smell but it is not related to roses.
I pick a few sprouts and enjoy them on my way
down. There is no greater performance booster!
Explore the amazing herb products made by
Tuija’s company: www.arcticwarriors.fi
R O S E R O OT
ADVERTISEMENT
Flavour Master”
Jari Kurtti, a.k.a. “The

r
berry snack ba
Every Wild Blue be rr ie s.
ild bl ue
contains 60 w

FO R E S T G O O D N E S S
by Arctic Superfoods
CHEF JARI KURTTI started his Arctic
Superfoods company in 2016 when
he noticed a huge gap in the market
for Nordic superfoods. Jari’s company
aims at bringing the healthy benefits
of Lappish berries and herbs to the
consumers. Berries grow naturally in
the pristine forests of Lapland. Some of
them are considered superfoods as they
are rich with vitamins and antioxidants.
Each Arctic Superfoods snack bar is
produced in Finland and is packed to the
brim with these local ingredients.
“Every wild blueberry snack bar
contains 60 blueberries”, says Jari, who
is also known as “The Flavour Master”.
The snack bars come in various
flavours: Wild Blueberry & Birch Leaf;
Lingonberry, Cranberry & Nettle; and
Sea Buckthorn & Spruce Sprout. They
are free of gluten, dairy or added sugar.
The company’s latest product is the
Wild Blueberry & Dark Chocolate snack
bar. Containing 38 blueberries, it is a
true flavour bomb!
Snack bars are a great companion
during travelling and sports activities.
They will give you that much needed
energy boost in the middle of your hike
in the fells, biking trip in the forest, or
even a coffee break at the office.
The snack bars are available at the
numerous shops around Lapland, listed
below. They are also delivered worldwide
through the online Ninja Store.
www.nordicninjastore.com

G E T YO U R S N AC K BA R S F R O M :
ROVANIEMI: K-supermarket Rinteenkulma, Cafe & Bar 21, Arktikum,
Korundi, Pilke, Sampo Pharmacy, Arctic Design Shop, Choco Deli,
Mandragora. SANTA CLAUS VILLAGE: Santa Claus Office, Santa Claus
Holiday Village, Cafe & Restaurant Sirmakko. LEVI: Levimarket, S-market
Levi, Hotel Hullu Poro, Hotel Panorama, Lapland Hotels Sirkantähti.
KITTILÄ: K-supermarket Kittilä, S-market, Herkkutupa, Hotel Kittilä,
Kittilä Airport. YLLÄS: Jounin Kauppa, Eelin Kauppa, Visitor Centre
Kellokas, Lapland Hotels Saaga. PYHÄ: K-market Pyhäntähti, Café Loimu,
Restaurant Huttu-Uula. LUOSTO: Lapland Hotels Luostotunturi. SALLA:
Salla Ski Resort. KUUSAMO: Oulanka Visitor Centre. SAARISELKÄ:
Lapland Hotels Saariselkä. INARI: Siida Shop. SODANKYLÄ: K-market
Sodankylä, K-supermarket Pohjantähti. MUONIO: Pallastunturi Visitor
Centre, Hotel Harriniva, Lapland Hotels Olos.

W W W. A R C T I C S U P E R F O O D S . C O M
ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER
SUMMER2018
2018 13

Marcelo Souza de Araujo studies Applied Visual Arts at the University of Lapland.
From the heat of Brazil
to the coolness of Lapland
MARCELO SOUZA DE ARAUJO first
came to Lapland in 2012 to do exchange
studies. Back home in Rio de Janeiro,
while studying digital media, he had
discovered an opportunity to experience
something different. During his exchange
year in Rovaniemi, he found freedom,
peace, and his future wife. A few years
later, he decided to come back to Lapland
to complete his Master’s degree.
In January 2017, Marcelo applied to
the University of Lapland. He sent the
required documentation online via the
Studyinfo portal and submitted a portfolio
with his best works. In March 2017, he
was selected for a Skype interview with
university teachers and in May 2017, he
found out that he had been accepted.
I t ’ s H a p p y . It’s one of the happiest places IN THE WORLD.
University of Lapland is ranked 1ST IN HAPPINES in Finland (ISB 2017).
14 ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018
STU DY OPPORTU NITIES ABOVE OR DINARY. W W W.STU DYINLAPLAND.FI
LAPLAND TIPS | EDUCATION
When Marcelo arrived in Rovaniemi
in September 2017, he was met by a tutor
who helped the arriving students to get
the keys to their student apartments.
In Rovaniemi, students can apply for
affordable student accommodation from
Domus Arctica Foundation.
Marcelo’s major is Applied Visual Arts
in the Arctic Art and Design program.
The program provides training for
professionals in creative industries,
such as graphic designers. According
to Marcelo, studying in Finland is more
efficient than in Brazil.
“Studying in Brazil is very different.
You have to be in school for the whole day
and you don’t have much freedom or time
to do anything else. Here, you are free to
choose your own courses and decide on
your study schedule”, says Marcelo.
The cool climate in Lapland is quite
different from the heat of Brazil, but it
offers some unique experiences. Marcelo
remembers his visit to the Finnish sauna
and a swim in a frozen lake afterwards. He
finds dark Lappish winters challenging,
but suggests a good way to overcome their
effects: regular sports exercises.
At the university, Marcelo has an
opportunity to take part in interesting
courses, workshops and projects.
“We are helping a hotel in Pasmajärvi
village with their marketing. We create
promotional videos for them”, he says.
There are some courses that are quite
unique to Lapland.
“I took a course in snow sculpture at
Kemi Snow Castle. We also did cultural
exchange with the Sami people, and
learned about their cultural heritage and
way of life. You don’t get to experience this
in other universities”, says Marcelo.
Rovaniemi has two universities with
degrees taught in English. The University
of Lapland offers Master’s degree studies in
Arctic Art and Design; Media Education;
Northern Tourism; and Tourism, Culture
and International Management. Lapland
University of Applied Sciences offers
Bachelor’s degree studies in Business
Information Technology; International
Business; Nursin; and Tourism. If you are
coming from outside the EU or EFTA, you
will have to pay tuition fees, but you may
also be eligible for a scholarship.
The next application period for English
programs starts in December 2018. If
you want to ask Marcelo about studying
in Rovaniemi, you can contact him at
studentambassadors@ulapland.fi.
More info about education in Finland:
www.studyinlapland.fi, studyinfo.fi.
ROYAL RACES
ROVANIEMI 28–29.7.2018
MÄNTYVAARA RACE TRACK

“The biggest event in Rovaniemi history”

ADVANCE TICKETS FROM TICKETMASTER.FI: SAT 28.7 – 28€, SUN 29.7 – 33€, TWO DAYS – 53€.
TICKETS FROM THE DOOR: SAT 28.7 – 33€, SUN 29.7 – 38€, TWO DAYS – 64€.

WWW.KUNINKUUSRAVIT.FI
ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018 15
 LAPLAND TIPS | DESIGN
TA I G A KO R U J E W E L L E RY
Endlessly inspired by the Arctic wilderness
SAMI VIITASAARI is one of the designers at Taigakoru
jewellery workshop. Taigakoru is famous for its nature-
inspired jewellery. The company still manufactures
100% of its products in Rovaniemi.
Sami was born in the city of Nokia in Southern
Finland. He moved to Rovaniemi in the mid-90s and
attended a design school for 4.5 years. As a part of his
education, he had a course in jewellery design taught
by Juha Janger, the founder of Taigakoru.
After completing his studies, Sami moved to the
city of Oulu and started to work for the famous Nokia
mobile phone company. He was a lead designer in
several mobile phone projects. Although it was years
before the demise of the company, Sami knows the
reasons behind it.
“Nokia did not follow the trends of the time and got
smashed by other tech giants”, says Sami.
After 6 years of intensive work with mobile phones,
Sami felt he was slipping into a burn-out and was
striving for a change. In 2006, he moved back to
Rovaniemi with his family. That’s when he again
crossed paths with Juha Janger, the head of Taigakoru.
“Juha saw potential in my 3D and digital skills and
invited me to work for him”, says Sami.
The transition from mobile phones to jewellery went
surprisingly smooth.
“The software for designing both jewellery and
mobile phones is very similar. They are also of relatively
same size, and possess similar texture”, says Sami.
His work integrates seamlessly with the work of
the four goldsmiths at Taigakoru. He often starts his
design process by sketching something with a pen on
a sheet of paper. The sketching phase may last for days
or weeks, starting from the shape of an object and
continuing by adding details into it over the course
of several sessions. Then, Sami recreates his sketch
16 ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018
with the 3D software. The 3D drawing is sent to the
wax milling machine, which produces a real-size wax
model of a piece of jewellery. They use it to cast the
frame of the piece from precious metals. Next, it is up
to the goldsmiths to polish the frame, and attach gem
stones to the piece.
With this technique, imagination is the only limit
for the design of the piece of jewellery. Sami, however,
strives for certain minimalistic aesthetics in his work.
“Simplicity is one of the visual features that sets
Finnish design apart”, says Sami.
According to Sami, the Lappish nature has a strong
influence on Taigakoru’s products. Sami’s recent works
for Taigakoru include the animal series with faces of
the bear and wolf, the Snow Queen series depicting
snowflakes, and a series based on Lappish berries with
red agate and amethyst stones. To honour Finland’s
100th independence, he created a special SiniSielu
(Bluesoul) pendant which depicts Finland’s national
bird, the whooper swan.
Some of Taigakoru’s most popular products are
wedding rings with gold nuggets found in Lapland.
Some rings are produced in a series, but there are many
that are tailor-made. 3D technologies make the process TA I GA KO RU
faster and very precise. SHOPS
“Gold nugget rings are the combined result of Juha
Janger’s and my expertise. I start the design process Rinteenkulma
and send drafts of the rings to our clients. The designs shopping centre,
are then finalized and polished by Juha”. Koskikatu 25,
In his spare time, Sami does other design work. Rovaniemi.
Currently, he is working on a classic Finnish “puukko”
knife. He also plays guitar in a death metal band called Swarovski shop at
Lubricant who has recently been revived after 22 years Santa Claus Village.
of inactivity. Finland, after all, has the highest ratio of
metal bands per capita in the world! You can follow Online shop:
Sami on Instagram @samiviitasaari. www.taigakoru.eu
 EASY
SHOPPING
Rinteenkulma is Lapland’s
largest shopping centre.
Situated right in Rovaniemi
centre, it offers a wide
range of stores from
international fashion to
the Finnish design brands.
www.rinteenkulma.fi
Ecc o

ari
M
m e k ko

D E PA R T M E N T & FINNISH DESIGN FA S H I O N CAFES & ai

T
g a ko r u
G R O C E RY S T O R E S • Marimekko • InterSport R E S TA U R A N T S
• K-Supermarket – food & • Marttiini knives • Ecco Shop • Restaurant Comico
household goods • Taigakoru factory shop • Koo Kenkä Shoe Store • Restaurant Feenix
• Clas Ohlson – multimedia, • Pulkkinen watch shop • Hairdresser’s Hairlekiini • Café Spice Ice
electrical and hardware • Timanttiset jewellery • Knitting store Vallaton Villa • Café Break
• Alko State Liquor Store • Kultajousi jewellery • Optician Fenno Optiikka • Halfmoon
M
arttiini
ADDRESS: OPENING HOURS OF SHOPS: K-SUPERMARKET ALKO
Koskikatu 25, Rovaniemi Mon-Fri 10–18, Sat 10–17, Sun 11–16 Mon-Sat 8–21, Sun 11–21 Mon-Fri 9–21, Sat 9–18

Kontti
full of
good
Kontti is a second
hand operated by the
Finnish Red Cross.

Second Hand Kontti

Teollisuustie 13, 96320 Rovaniemi
Opening hours Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, Sat 9am–4pm
kontti.redcross.fi
 LAPLAND TIPS | DESIGN

Marttiini factory
turns 90 years
JANNE MARTTIINI REVOLUTIONISED KNIFE MANUFACTURE IN FINLAND
AND PUT FINNISH KNIVES ON THE WORLD MAP

J
ohan Henrik alias Janne Marttiini was born
into a religious family in the Kierinki village
in 1883. He was ambitious and hardworking,
and at the age of 16 he became blacksmith’s
apprentice. In 1923, he started his own modest smithy
in Rovaniemi producing sickles, iron parts, and tools.
He developed his own knife model, the Lynx knife,
and his reputation reached as far as the Swedish and
Norwegian Lapland.
In 1928, Janne opened the J. Marttiini Knife
Factory, producing not only knives but other products
as well, such as coffee mills. Janne Marttiini went on
preaching trips in the Rovaniemi area and sold his
knives during his travels. At the Vyborg agricultural
exhibition in 1932, he demonstrated the sharpness of
his knife by shaving people’s neck hair. This awarded
him the exhibition first prize.
As the demand for his knives grew, a new factory
building was built in Rovaniemi in 1940. The building
was damaged in the war, but afterwards it was
repaired and the production of knives continued.
Janne Marttiini’s vision was truly ahead of his time.
His approach revolutionised the way knives were
manufactured in Finland. Essentially, he did to knives
what Henry Ford did to the automotive industry. His
factory produced knives at a higher volume for an
affordable price, without sacrificing their quality.

THEESUN SHAMAN

REINDEER

SHAMANNJEWELLERY..MADEEINNLAPLANDD--SINCEE1981.

VISIT - Rovaniemi, Shopping center Rinteenkulma

- Arctic Circle, Santa Claus Village
OUR
18 SHOP!| SUMMER 2018
ALL ABOUT LAPLAND phone: +358 16 313070
e-mail: info@taigakoru.fi
 LAPLAND TIPS | DESIGN

In 1952, he embarked on his first preaching and

sales trip to the United States. There he found new
markets, which eventually led to an extensive filleting
knife trade. In 1967, Janne Marttiini received a
prestigious Exports Award from the President of
Finland. By 1970, the one-millionth filleting knife
was produced, and once again there was a need for a
larger production facility. A new factory was built in
the Rovaniemi industrial area in the 1970s.
Janne Marttiini died in 1970 at the age of 77. “Truth,
honour, and humility” were his main principles of life.
In 2018, the Marttiini knife factory celebrates
its 90th anniversary. Janne’s life principles are well
maintained and knife production continues.
Today, the factory manufactures a wide range of
products from classic knives to new hunting and
fishing models. The Lynx knife, designed by Janne
Marttiini, is still manufactured in many different
variations. It is an ultimate hiking and all-purpose
knife model that serves its owner for decades.
Janne Marttiini also popularised the traditional
Lapp knife, originally invented by the Sami people.
Its large machete-like blade with a rounded tip is
suitable for hunting and skinning animals, and even
for chopping wood. Nowadays, it is used by hikers,
tourist guides, and conscripts in the Finnish army.
The classic filleting knife manufactured since
the 1950s has evolved. It is now available also with
a non-slip rubber handle or with non-stick Martef
Marttiini Bronze Bird
Damascus knife is a true
collector’s item.
Marttiini Factory in the
1940’s. Today, it houses
Marttiini factory shop.
coating. Hunters can choose between several classic
and modern knife models for opening, skinning, and
cutting of game.
Traditional carbon steel is used for the classic
Marttiini models, and chrome steel for the modern
ones. Carbon steel is still the number-one choice
for many, as it can be easily sharpened even in the
field, whereas chrome steel is famous for its stainless
properties and requires practically zero maintenance.
Marttiini’s Carbinox T508 steel combines the best
characteristics of carbon and chrome steel.
The Marttiini knife factory also produces various
collector’s knifes. Particularly famous of those are
knives with Damascus steel with handles made
from moose antler or heat-treated wood. There is
also a large selection of knives with bronze ferrules
depicting Finland’s animals, as well as hand-crafted
reindeer horn knives.
To celebrate the factory’s 90th anniversary,
Marttiini has launched a special limited edition
Anniversary Knife made from carbon steel. You
can purchase Marttiini knives from their factory
shops in Rovaniemi and Helsinki, and online. The
Marttiini old factory in the Rovaniemi city centre is
now used as a shop for the Marttiini knives. It also
houses an exhibition of old knives that you can visit
free of charge. The two other Marttiini factory shops
in Rovaniemi are located at Rinteenkulma Shopping
Centre and at Santa Claus Village.
www.marttiini.com

Blacksmith Janne Marttiini founded

a knife factory in Rovaniemi in 1928.
In 2018, the factory celebrates its 90th
anniversary. Marttiini makes traditional
Finnish and Lapp knives, modern fishing
and hunting knives and special collector’s
knives with Damascus steel and reindeer MARTTIINI 90 TH
ANNIVERSARY
horn. Visit Marttiini factory shops in
KNIFE 2018
Rovaniemi or Marttiini Webshop:
www.marttiini.com.

MARTTIINI OLD FACTORY RINTEENKULMA SHOPPING CENTRE SANTA CLAUSALLVILLAGE

ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018 19
Mon–Fri 10–18, Sat 10–16 Mon–Fri 10–18, Sat 10–17 Every day 10–17
 Local Food with Love

You will find us at Arctic TreeHouse Hotel,

next to SantaPark, 2 km from Santa Claus
Village & 8 km from Rovaniemi City Centre
- Open from 2nd July -

www.rakasrestaurant.com | rakas@rakasrestaurant.com | ☏ +358 505 176 909

Welcome to spend a fun day with the elves in Santa’s own Home Cavern

Cool things to do & see in SantaPark Opening hours during summer 2018

* Elf School * Magic Show * Elf Workshop

25 June to 11 August
* Magic Train * Post Office * Ice Princess’ Monday to Saturday from 10 a.m. - 5 p.m.
Ice Gallery * Mrs. Gingerbread’s Kitchen
* Undercross the Arctic Circle
... and of course meet Santa Claus!

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018 21

Book your ticket: www.santapark.com | info@santapark.com | ☏ +358 600 301 203
 SHOPPING  CENTRE

SAMPOKESKUS
Sampokeskus Shopping Centre is an oasis of trends & fashion in Rovaniemi center.
Here you will find inclusive fashion stores, a variety of cafés and restaurants, a cinema,
souvenir shops, Fitness24Seven gym, a pharmacy and a tourist office.

CAFÉS & FOOD Café Antell • Hesburger • Rock Café Grande • Subway • Classic American Diner • Mumin Kaffe
BEAUTY & HEALTH Attirance • Fitness24Seven • Hairlekiini hair salon • Sagatar Beauty & Wellness • Sampo Pharmacy
• The BodyShop FASHION Cubus • Gina Tricot • Jack & Jones • Laukkutalo bag store • Sensuelle underwear • MODA •
Paapero children • Tredonne • Vero Moda SPECIALTY SERVICES Bio Rex Cinema • Cityvarasto • Confetti • Danske Bank
• Filmtown & candyshop • Otto ATM • Pentik design shop • Rovaniemi Tourist Info • Tiinuska souvenir shop

FREE PARKING
Our underground
parking hall offers
1 hour free parking.

SAMPOKESKUS
Maakuntakatu 29–31, Lordi Square, Rovaniemi centre
Mon–Fri 10–19, Sat 10–17, Sun 12–16. sampokeskus.fi /sampokeskus
 km
10

t5
or
rp
Ai
24 23

26
31

8
7

9
18
4 3 30
29
1
2 11 16 32
19 15
12 17 13
14
21 33 8 22
34
25 20

5 8
28

27

R O VA N I E M I C I T Y M A P
SHOPPING & SERVICES CAFES & RESTAURANTS CULTURE & ATTRACTIONS
1. Rovaniemi Tourist Info 11. Coffee House 23. Arktikum Museum & Science Centre
2. Shopping Centre Sampokeskus 12. Rosso 24. Pilke Science Centre
Sampo Pharmacy 13. Nili 25. Korundi House of Culture
3. Shooping centre Rinteenkulma 14. Himo 26. Marttiini Old Factory
4. Shopping centre Revontuli 15. Frans & Chérie 27. Administrative and Cultural Centre
16. Amarillo 28. Angry Birds Children’s Playground
TRANSPORTATION 17. Uitto Pub
5. Rovaniemi Railway Station 18. Choco Deli HOTELS
6. Bus Station 19. Halfmoon Night Club 29. Original Sokos Hotel Vaakuna
7. Central Taxi Station 20. Yuca 30. Hotel Santa Claus
8. Bus Stops for Bus Number 8 to Santa 21. Cafe-Bar 21 31. Hotel Aakenus
Claus Village 22. Arctic Ice Cream Factory Summer 32. Scandic Pohjanhovi
9. Scandia Rent Parlour 33. Arctic Light Hotel
10. Rovaniemi Airport 34. City Hotel

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018 23

 RAKAS
R E S TAU R A N T
A R C T I C F L AV O U R S B Y
Jonathan Guppy
O
pened in 2016, the
Arctic TreeHouse
Hotel has truly raised
the bar for luxury
travel in Rovaniemi.
37 beautiful design
suites are sitting on top of the hill not
far from the Arctic Circle. Underneath is
hidden one of Rovaniemi’s top attractions,
SantaPark, a Christmas-themed cave.
Their design is inspired by the Nordic
nature and ecological timber materials
are used for both inside and outside walls.
The hotel became an instant hit with
the travellers and created a buzz in the
media. The unique design of the nest-
like suites was praised by The Telegraph,
Bloomberg, Vogue and was named the
Best Innovation in Hotel Concept at the
World Hospitality Awards 2017 in Paris.
Food is, of course, an important part of a
good travel experience. The hotel features
a Scandinavian restaurant called Rakas
(“beloved one” in Finnish). The head chef
is Jonathan Guppy, an Englishman who
moved to Rovaniemi some 7 years ago.
24 ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018
Jonathan Guppy, head chef of Rakas restaurant, relies on the Arctic Flavours.
Why do you like Lapland, Jonathan?
“It’s an ease of being here,” says Jonathan.
“In England, it’s a constant overload of the
senses, even in the countryside. I work
very long hours, and here there’s lots of
nature that helps me relax. I like to run at
least 2-3 times a week in the forest”.
Since the early age Jonathan knew he
wanted to be a chef and played cooking
with his Grandma in the kitchen. He
started to wash dishes at a restaurant at
the age of 15. Having worked all his life
as a chef in UK and Finland, he is now in
charge of Rakas and 3 other restaurants of
SantaPark Arctic World.
According to Jonathan, in Rakas they
try to use as much local ingredients as
they can. Instead of olive oil, for example,
they use juniper oil and spruce oil, instead
of lemon — spruce shoots that have the
same acidic flavour profile.
“Seasonality and locality play a big
part in our kitchen”, says Guppy. “We
use Nordic style of cooking focusing on
ingredients from our area. It makes sense!”
“I love reindeer,” says Jonathan. “It’s an
amazing ingredient, every part of it has
to be cooked in a different way. Fillet is
served as rare as possible, and the neck is
cooked for two days straight until it falls
apart and it’s the best pulled pork you’ve
ever had, but it’s pulled reindeer!”
Jonathan is also fond of pike perch
(sander) which is, in his words, unique to
this part of the world. He prefers it for its
subtle and delicate flavour.
“The skin, when you cook it right, it’s
like tiger skin. Pike perch is an awesome
fish to plate up presentation-wise as well.”
We hope that the flavours
will hit you in the head!
Grilled pike perch with shellfish sauce.
Summer is short and fast in Lapland,
but according to Jonathan, you can still
get good vegetables, especially root
vegetables here. Throughout the winter,
they use some 150 kilos of freeze-dried
and frozen blueberries, lingonberries
and cloudberries that the whole staff has
picked right nearby in the forest.
“I’ve got training in molecular
gastronomy, but I shy away from it now.
I like to focus more on ingredients and
let them do the talking. We hope that the
flavours will hit you in the head!”
You can taste these amazing ingredients
of the modern Lappish cuisine at Rakas
restaurant throughout the year. However,
in Spring 2018 the hotel will receive 17
more design suits in addition to the exiting
38 suites and 5 villas, and the restaurant
will be closed until July 2nd 2018.
Address: Tarvantie 3, Rovaniemi (next
to SantaPark). Every day from July 2nd
2018. www.rakasrestaurant.com
 FOODIE TIPS | ROVANIEMI

FRANS
& CHÉRIE

FRANS & CHÉRIE is a cosy bistro in the centre of Rovaniemi, inspired
by the French love of food. Jump into the flavours of the French
Provence and taste classic cold cuts, brioches, snails, king prawns
and steaks. French burger with Comté cheese is something that even
the youngsters will appreciate! Friday is the Mussels Day at Frans &
Chérie, so don’t be late, because the mussels are on offer for as long
as the stock lasts!
If you want to sample something local, Frans & Chérie has a special
Lappish menu. Start with a hearty salmon soup, and continue with
reindeer fillet with red wine sauce — it will definitely melt in your
mouth! Another option is the classic sautéed reindeer with Lappish
potatoes and lingonberry jam. Fish lovers will certainly appreciate
fried Arctic char from the local waters.
Frans & Chérie is also an excellent place for lunch. For 12€ you can
enjoy a warm dish, and buffet with salads and coffee. In summer, the
terrace of Frans & Chérie is a great place to grab a bite and sample
local beers. On weekdays from 15 to 18 Frans & Chérie invites you
for an AfterWork with great offers and drinks. Bon appétit!
Koskikatu 4, Rovaniemi. +358 444 050 216.
Mon–Fri 11–23, Sat 12-23, Sun 12–22.
AMARILLO
AMARILLO is an excellent restaurant that combines
great food with partymaking. The heart of Amarillo’s is
“Mad Mex” or rich tex-mex dishes that are designed to
be shared. How about a plate of nachos, chicken wings
or tacos? If you and your companion are really hungry,
then go for “The Plate”, an Ox flank steak, with chorizzo
and sides of your choice. Amarillo also knows a fair bit
about good burgers, and makes them with love and care.
Amarillo Big Burger with beef patties, BBQ sauce and
french fries will certainly spice up your day!
In summer, Amarillo’s sunny terrace becomes the city’s
most popular hang-out place, all thanks to its atmosphere
and the view towards the Kemijoki river. Restaurants
usually close up early, but on Fridays and Saturdays
Amarillo’s kitchen works extended hours until midnight!
There is no rush anyway, as you can continue the evening
at Amarillo’s bar over a couple of drinks.
Koskikatu 4, Rovaniemi. +358 444 050 213.
Mon–Thu 11–23, Fri 11–02, Sat 12–02, Sun 12–23.

ROSSO

COFFEE
HOUSE
COFFEE HOUSE in Rovaniemi centre is truly the whole
city’s lounge. Laid back atmosphere, snacks and a good
cup of coffee — they’ve got you covered! For its espresso-
based drinks Coffee House uses ecological UTZ-certified
beans. For your cappuccino or latte, you can choose
between the regular and vegan milk. There are also plenty
of choices of delicious brewed tea, including sencha and
rooibos. And if you are in the mood for celebrating, why
not go for a glass of sparkling wine?
On weekdays, Coffee House invites the early birds for
a cup of coffee and breakfast from 8AM. Fresh croissants
are baked every morning and there are plenty of other
tasty treats such as foccaccias and cakes.
Maakuntakatu 30, Rovaniemi. +358 44 7885 888.
Mon–Fri 08–21, Sat 10–21, Sun 11–20.
PIZZA IS DEAR to every Finn’s heart to the point of becoming Finnish
“national food”! If you feel a sudden crave for pizza, Rosso will
certainly take care of that! Here you can sample not only the classic
Neapolitan pizzas, but also rustic and crunchy Roman-style artisan
pizzas. They are really delicious! And the best thing is that you can
have your pizza gluten-free, it will be baked in the dedicated oven.
You can also swap regular cheese for a vegan option. Rosso brings
you the joy of Italian cuisine: steakes, chicken and lamb from the grill
and fresh salads. There is also a nice selection of risottos and pastas.
Complementary salad buffet table comes with all of the main dishes.
In summer, it is a great idea to enjoy your meal or a couple of
drinks outside at the terrace. You will find Rosso near the Lordi
square right in the middle of Rovaniemi. Enjoy!
Maakuntakatu 30, Rovaniemi. +358 44 7885 751.
Mon– Sat 11–22, Sun 12–22.

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018 25

 FOODIE TIPS | ROVANIEMI

R E S TA U R A N T N I L I
NILI is a truly legendary restaurant in the
centre of Rovaniemi. Thanks to its amazing
Lappish cuisine and hospitality Nili has
become one of Rovaniemi’s attractions.
Visiting Nili is always an experience, even
if you are a local. Nili’s kitchen is based
on the best local ingredients, such as the
reindeer meat, fish, game, root vegetables,
mushrooms and berries.
For starters, go for Rovaniemi Market.
It is a huge wooden platter filled with
wonderful appetizers: cooked and
marinated reindeer meat, salmon,
vendace, berries and Lappish cheese.
Reindeer is the main ingredient of the
Lappish cuisine. A classical way to enjoy
it is sautéed reindeer, served with mashed
potatoes, pickles and lingonberry jam.
For a more modern approach, go for
reindeer prepared in two ways. Equally
great is Nili’s selection of fish dishes which
respects seasonality.
Nili is one of the rare places in Lapland
to sample bear meat. Granted, it is not a
cheap treat, but the supply is limited and
availability depends on the luck of the
local hunters. Bear meat is gamey and
very rich in flavour. For desserts, go for
the classic Lappish baked cheese with
cloudberry jam. It’s a real treat!
Valtakatu 20, Rovaniemi.
+358 400 369 669, www.nili.fi.
Tue–Sat 17–23. Mon & Sun: closed.

YUCA

CAFE&BAR21
CAFE&BAR21 is one of Rovaniemi’s best cafes. It’s a great place
for lunch, quick snack or a few drinks! Their menu offers a
great selection of salads with toppings of your choices, baked
potatoes, pasta, and my favourite — the hearty salmon soup!
Cafe&Bar 21 is especially famous for their waffles. You can have
them as a main dish with sour fillings, for example, chicken or
meatballs, or as a dessert with fruits and berries.
If you would like to taste something local, go for the Finnish
tapas plate with salmon, smoked reindeer and Lappish cheese.
Cafe&Bar 21 is also renowned for its selection of quality
wines, many of which are available by the glass, and refreshing
cocktails, making it a great place to drop by in the evenings.
In Summer, you might come across one of Cafe&Bar 21’s
kiosks at Lordi square or near the Angry Birds park (Valtakatu 4)
where you will find some bubble waffles and fresh gelato!
Rovakatu 21, Rovaniemi. www.cafebar21.fi. Mon-Tue 11–21,
Wed-Thu 11-22, Fri 11-02, Sat 12-02, Sun 12-21.
YUCA is the latest addition to Rovaniemi’s growing food scene
that offers you a fresh taste of the real Mexican cuisine. Yuca
takes special pride in its tacos and tostadas that are hand-made
in the house. Choose between pork, beef, chicken, mushroom,
chorizo or fish fillings – they are all full of flavour! Tuesday is
taco-day with a special taco recipe for a special price.
Yuca’s main dishes are absolutely delicious. Try, for example,
Lucioperca, fried pike perch with mango salsa and avocado
cream, or El bife de Yuca, grilled steak with vegetables that
will melt in your mouth. The dishes are prepared in a coal grill,
staying true to the authentic Mexican style of cooking. Top it
with classic churros, and you are in heaven! Yuca’s tequila and
mezcal-based drink selection deserves a special mention.
Yuca is very addictive, and has recently become my favourite
place for lunch. Tip: go for the burrito bowl!
Rovakatu 21, Rovaniemi. +358 40 099 87 54, www.yuca.fi
Mon-Thu 11–21, Fri–Sat 11-23, Sun: closed.

26 ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

 FOODIE TIPS | ROVANIEMI
ARCTIC
ICE
CREAM
FAC T O RY
HIMO
HIMO is a true oasis of Asian flavours in the heart of Rovaniemi.
Himo is passionate about Japanese, Chinese and Thai cuisines.
Its name translates from Finnish as “passion” or “lust”. Himo is
known of its amazing sushi which are said to be some of the best
in the whole country. There are many classic sushi options on
the menu, however, you can taste something really local, such as
reindeer nigiri and spicy reindeer uramaki.
Himo offers some mouthwatering Asian dishes, such as ramen
or red curry soup, spring rolls, woks and dim sums. These dishes
are available with shrimp, pork, mushrooms and chicken. But
there are some truly exotic choices such as reindeer and bear
meat! Himo must be the only place in the world to taste ramen
soup or wok with bear meat! Still, my favourite dish on the menu
is ramen burger. Made with reindeer meat and wheat nooddles
bun, it is an amazing treat!
Valtakatu 23, Rovaniemi. +358 40 508 82 82.
Tue–Fri 16–22, Sat 12–22. Mon & Sun: closed.
ARCTIC ICE CREAM FACTORY is an artisan brand of ice creams
from Rovaniemi. It was born in 2015 out of love and passion
towards the pure nordic ingredients. The founder of the factory,
Anna-Riikka Lavia, explains.
“We try to use as much local ingredients as possible. Our
blueberries, cloudberries and lingonberries come from the local
berry-pickers and our dairy is produced at the local farm”.
Anna-Riikka’s strive for quality has payed off. She makes ice
cream by hand in small batches, that’s why it always tastes so
fresh and creamy! In addition to berry-flavoured ice-creams
there are liquorice, fudge and dairy-free berry options.
For this summer, Anna-Riikka has something special to offer:
spruce sprout ice sorbet (photo). Spruce sprouts are gathered by
hand in the beginning of summer, and they are rich in vitamin C.
You can find Arctic Ice Cream Factory parlour at Choco Deli
cafe in Rovaniemi centre (Koskikatu 18). In summer, you can taste
these ice creams at a kiosk near the Kemijoki river, or bump into
one of the factory’s bicycle vending carts. Over 40 restaurants
and markets around Lapland sell Arctic Ice Cream Factory’s
products. You can find them in Rovaniemi at restaurant Rakas
and SantaPark, Hostel Cafe Koti, K-Supermarket Rinteenkulma
and at Kiisa restaurant in Break Sokos Hotel Levi.
www.arcticicecreamfactory.fi
UITTO
UITTO PUB is a must place to visit if you wish to experience a
night out like a local. Its name and interior play hommage to
the times of the fearless lumberjacks. These daredevils floated
log by local rivers and liked to offset their job with a little bit
of fun! Uitto pub cherises local traditions and the spirit of
their wild partymaking is still very much present here.
Uitto pub is a great place to sample local beverages. My tip
is to go for the local craft beers from the “Lapland Brewery”,
based in Rovaniemi. Their artisan ales and lagers encapsulate
the true Lappish spirit. Wine on tap is also available here.
On weekdays from 17 to 21, Uitto pub invites you for some
special drinks and offers.
Watch sports on the big screens, play darts or board games
with your friends, order something from the kitchen and you
won’t notice how the time flies!
Korkalonkatu 25, Rovaniemi. +358 447 88 58 89.
Open every day 17–02.
ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018 27
 1 RANUA ZOO
RANUA WILDLIFE PARK is the home for the adorable
Arctic animals. Situated 80 km from Rovaniemi, Ranua
is a great destination for a family day trip. Alternatively,
you can stay at the Gulo-Gulo Holiday Village near
Ranua. At the Wildlife Park you can meet 200 animals,
belonging to 50 different species: polar and brown
bears, wolves, lynxes, wolverines, moose, foxes, arctic
birds, and many others. In 2016, polar bear Sisu was
born here. He has grown into a big bear now but still
enjoys playing with his mom and toys. To see the

7
animals, you will walk a 2,8 km park trail in the
middle of the forest. In summer, there is also
Domestic Park with many farm animals.
Open daily. Summer opening hours

x FUN
F A M I LY 9–19. Rest of the year: 10–16. Adults
17€, children 14€ (4–14 years). Family
ticket 51€. www.ranuazoo.com.

S A N TA PA R K
SANTAPARK is Santa’s underground cave where the happy
elves live! All year round, they prepare Christmas gifts for
Santa, but they also have lots of time for games. Of course,
2
both children and their parents are warmly welcome here.
In SantaPark you can attend the Elf school and learn
some secret elfish skills, practise traditional old-fashioned
elf writing and experience the joy of creation in the Elf
Workshop. Here, you can also enjoy Four Seasons sleigh
ride, taste Mrs Gingerbread’s cookies, play at the Angry
Birds Activity area and cross the Arctic Circle 50 meters
below the ground! One of the special places in SantaPark is
the Ice Kingdom where you can meet the Ice Queen!
Tarvantie 1, Rovaniemi. Open 25.6–11.8.2018 Mon–Sat
10 to 17. Adults 17,5€, children 15€ (3–12 years).

2 X AD VE NT UR E PA RK S!
HOPLOP AND ROLLOHALLI are two
awesome adventure parks under one roof!
Kids of all ages can play and exercise here
with their parents. Parks are situated
just 3 km from Rovaniemi centre
and are open every day.
Unlimited play time!

ROLLOHALLI (AGE 7+)
Super & wall trampolines,
foampits, airtracks, parkour,
tricking/cheer/gymnastics e.g.
28 ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018
Napapiirintie 14, Rovaniemi.
HOPLOP (AGE 0–12)
Labyrinths, obstacles, slides,
bouncy castles, pipes, mini-cars
and electronic games!
Opening hours: every day 10–20
ENTRANCE. HopLop: Adults 0€,
infants under 1 yr 0€, 1–2 yrs 10€,
3 yrs and over 15€. RolloHalli: 15€.
Entrance to both parks 18€.
www.hoplop.fi | www.rollohalli.fi
 3 REINDEER
REINDEER HERDING is one of Lapland’s most ancient
livelihoods. Most of the year, the reindeer roam free in the
forest where they eat well and enjoy their summer days. You
can dive deeper into reindeer herding by joining the local
reindeer herders and visit their reindeer in the countryside.
With a gentle whistle, the reindeer will come to greet you so
you can touch them and take photos with them. This summer
program lasts two hours and includes a snack on the open
fire. Price for adult 80€, child 50€.
For a truly unique experience, you can go hiking together
with the reindeer. You will see some beautiful landscapes
in Rovaniemi countryside. The reindeer will carry picnic
supplies on their back. Once you reach the spot with a view,
you will make a fire at a lean-to and enjoy some lunch. The
program is available 1.5–16.6 and 1.9–1.11.2018. Price for
adult 150€, child 80€, transportation included.
Book from Santa Claus Reindeer, +358 40 8339818.
info@santaclausreindeer.fi, www.santaclausreindeer.fi.

ADVENTURE
PA R K S
HOP-LOP & ROLLO-HALLI are two huge adventure parks,
situated 3 km from Rovaniemi centre. Here, kids of all ages
can play and exercise with their parents and have some fun!
When it is rainy outside this is the place where you can play all
4
day without limit. Vast labyrinths, trampolines, big foampits
and bowls, parkour, mini-cars…here you can find everything!
Hop-Lop is dedicated to younger kids aged 0–12 while
Rollo-Halli welcomes kids older than 7 and teenagers. At
Rollo–Halli, you can leave your kids under the supervision of
the staff. There’s also a little cafe where adults can wait while
their kids are having a blast!
Napapiirintie 14, Rovaniemi. Open daily 10–20.
Adults & infants: 0€. Kids 1–2 yrs 10€,
3 yrs and higher 15€. Entrance to both parks 18€.

Toyota Rent a Car

Explore Lapland on your own terms!

We offer passenger cars, SUV’s,

and passenger vans up to 9 seats!

BOOK YOUR CAR:

rent.rovaniemi@tojoauto.fi
+358 40 590 19 42

Pick up your car 24/7 at Rovaniemi airport,

railway station or at your hotel!

Authorized Toyota dealer since 1968.

TOJO-AUTO ROVANIEMI MAINTENANCE & REPAIRS SPARE PARTS & SUPPLIES
Alakorkalontie 15 huolto.rovaniemi@tojoauto.fi varaosat.rovaniemi@tojoauto.fi
ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | WINTER 2017 29
Mon–Fri 08–17 +358 400 196 533 +358 400 160 244 www.tojoauto.fi
 5 HUSKY TOURS
HUSKY DOGS are absolutely adorable animals! A good place
to meet them is the Bearhill Husky Kennel some 25 km north
from Rovaniemi. The huskies love to be petted and they will
be very happy to meet you and your family! You will receive
a guided tour of their kennel facilities and have a thorough
insight into the life of huskies. The mushers will be happy to
give you a short ride with a cart, however, the temperature
should be cooler than 15°C. Otherwise, it is too hot for the
huskies to run. Bearhill Kennel Tour is available in summer
and autumn. The program lasts 1,5 hours and is available from
Tuesdays to Saturdays. When it gets cooler in autumn, you can
actually do a thrilling 30–40 minute husky cart drive in the
forest! Born To Run Autumn tour starts 14.08.2018.
Bearhill Kennel Tour: adults 69€, children 4–14 yrs 39€.
Born to Run Tour: adults 119€, children 4–14 yrs 59€.
www.bearhillhusky.com, +358 40 760 0020.

SCIENCE
MUSEUMS
SCIENCE CENTRE PILKE AND ARKTIKUM MUSEUM will provide
your family with new discoveries! The northern forest is not only
Finland’s most cherished treasure, but it is also the main theme
6
at Pilke. At its interactive playground children and adults can get
behind the wheel of a forestry machine, sing forest karaoke, climb
into a bird house, and make a selfie on a giant screen.
Arktikum is a great place to find out more about the history of
Lapland and Arctic in general. The museum is a fun place for kids
and adults, as there will be many interesting games and riddles
on your path. One thing that all family must do here is to see the
Northern Lights show in a special theatre.
Arktikum & Pilke: Pohjoisranta 4, Rovaniemi.
Cultural pass: adults 20€, children 7–15 years 10€.
www.arktikum.fi, www.tiedekeskus-pilke.fi.

7
A N G RY B I R D S
THE ANGRY BIRDS is some of the most fun inventions that
Finland gave to the world. In Rovaniemi, you will find the
Angry Birds Activity Park where children of all ages can
enjoy various activities on and around the Angry Birds
figures. The playground is full of fun equipment such as
the giant slingshot, ropewalk, slides and swings. The park
is close to the city centre and the admittance is free. In
summer, you will find a kiosk by Cafe&Bar 21 near the park
with some great snacks.
Rovaniemi’s second Angry Birds playground is situated
inside SantaPark. You can go play there for the entrance fee
to SantaPark that includes dozens of different games and
Christmas-themed activities.
Angry Birds Park: Valtakatu 4, Rovaniemi, between the
bridges in the city centre. Free entry.
SantaPark: Tarvantie 1, Rovaniemi. Open 25.6–11.8.2018.

30 ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

 RANUA is situated 80 km south from
Rovaniemi. About 50 species and 200
individuals of Arctic animals live here in
the middle of the forest. At the Ranua
Wildlife Park, you can meet brown
bears, lynxes, red foxes, reindeer, wild
birds etc. In Summer, you can also
admire farm animals and their young
ones at the Domestic Park. Luxuriously
equipped Holiday Village Gulo-Gulo
provides quality accommodation near
EXPERIENCE the Wildlife Park. Ranua is waiting to
welcome you!
THE
WILD ARCTIC LAR BEAR
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Ranua Wildlife Park is open every day 10–16. Summer opening hours 9–19. www.ranuazoo.com • www.gulo.fi

BIGGEST SELECTION OF

SUMMER
TOURS I N R O VA N I E M I

• Visits to Husky & Reindeer Farms

• Canoeing, Rafting & Fishing Tours
• Nature Hikes & Berry-picking
• Photography Tours
• Midnight Sun & Aurora Hunting
• Sauna & Wellness Experiences

INFO & BOOKING: WWW.WILDNORDIC.FI | INFO@WILDNORDIC.FI | +358 500 599 99931

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

KO RU N D I H O U S E O F C U LT U R E
KORUNDI HOUSE OF CULTURE IS ONE OF ROVANIEMI’S TOP ATTRACTIONS. IT HOLDS
THE CITY’S ART MUSEUM, A CONCERT HALL, AND THE SPIRIT OF THE CITY’S PAST.
K
orundi is one of the few
buildings in Rovaniemi that
survived WWII. In 1944,
around 90% of the city’s
buildings were destroyed
by the retreating German
soldiers. This two-storeyed brick building was
designed by the architect Ture Hellström and
built in 1933. For many decades, the building
served as the post bus depot. The families of
the mechanics lived upstairs. After WWII, the
building was expanded using bricks from other
ruined buildings in Rovaniemi.
In 1986, the depot was transformed into the
city’s Art Museum. Over 500 works of modern
Finnish art were donated to the museum by
the Jenny and Antti Wihuri foundation. Today,
there are over 3000 works of art in the museum’s
collection and new ones are added constantly.
32 ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018
LAPLAND TIPS | CULTURE
In 2011, the Art Museum was expanded and
rebranded as Korundi. The name stands for
Corundum, a very tough mineral. New concert
hall was built in the museum’s yard with rough
copper tiles as the outside walls. The concert
hall hosts the performances of the Chamber
Orchestra of Lapland and guest artists. The
acoustics in the hall is one of the best in Finland.
Rovaniemi art museum gives you a great
insight into the modern Finnish art. It has
one of the most significant collections of
Finnish contemporary art of the past decades.
In particular, it presents many of the most
important works of the Finnish art of the
2000’s. The northern Finnish and Sami art are
extensively represented in the collection.
The highlight of Korundi’s summer is the
“Land of Snow” exhibition. Finland’s long and
snowy winters have long inspired artists. They
were not afraid of cold and wanted to capture
the beauty of the Finnish winter outdoors. Their
works feature crystal snowy landscapes lit by
the sunshine, as well as breathtaking beauty of
the untouched forest. Land of Snow exhibition
will be open at Korundi 15.6–21.10.2018.
Korundi House of Culture also features a KO RU N D I
souvenirs shop where you can buy quality Lapinkävijäntie 4, Rovaniemi
products by local artists made out of sustainable Tue-Sun 11–18. Thu 11–20.
ecological materials. www.korundi.fi
 LAPLAND TIPS | CULTURE

ARKTIKUM PILKE
ARKTIKUM MUSEUM IS A WINDOW INTO SCIENCE CENTRE PILKE LEADS YOU ON
THE LOCAL HISTORY AND THE ARCTIC REGIONS A JOURNEY INTO THE FINNISH FORESTS

ARKTIKUM is the leading cultural centre in Lapland. Inside its
172-metre glass corridor built on the shore of Ounasjoki river
you will find the Arctic Centre and the Regional Museum of
Lapland. Their exhibitions will make you familiar with the local
history starting from 6000 BC. Lapland is the home region for the
only indigenous people in Europe: the Sami. Arktikum will give
you a great insight into the Sami culture, their livelihoods and
languages. You will also find lots of info about other indigenous
cultures popularing the Arctic such as the Inuit and the Nenets.
Arktikum: Pohjoisranta 4. Pilke: Ounasjoentie 6. Culture pass to Arkikum, Pilke and Korundi: 20€ / adult, 10€ children.
SCIENCE CENTRE PILKE is an architectural marvel that is made
almost entirely out of wood. There is even birch skin wallpaper!
Nature and forests play a major role in everyday life of Finns,
and Pilke tells you all about that. The ground floor of the science
centre is filled with games, engaging challenges and obstacles, by
solving which the whole family can have a great deal of fun and
learn some new facts about nature. Get behind the wheel of a
forestry machine, climb into a bird house, sing karaoke on top of
an anthill and explore the forest with all your senses!

C U LT U R E H I G H L I G H T S I N R O VA N I E M I

S O F T M OV E M E N T S
& U N TA M E D S O U N D
8.6–26.8.2018 @ Arktikum
Joint exhibition by nature photographer Olli
Lamminsalo and sound artist Kirsi Ihalainen.
H OT ST U F F
until 30.9.2018 @ Arktikum
This hot exhibition reveals the secrets of
Arctic dating and mating with a dash of
hay barn romance and summer meadow.
L A N D O F S N OW
15.6–21.10.2018 @ Korundi
Collection of art inspired by long and
cold winters in Finland. Works by
Finland’s best painters.

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018 33

34 ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018
 E N J OY I N G
SUMMER
Santa’s way!
SUMMER IN LAPLAND IS SHORT BUT VERY BEAUTIFUL!
LOOKING FOR SOME SUMMER TIPS FOR OUR READERS,
WE TURNED TO LAPLAND’S MOST FAMOUS DWELLER, SANTA
CLAUS HIMSELF! SANTA GLADLY AGREED, BUT INSTEAD OF
JUST TELLING US ABOUT THEM, HE INVITED US FOR A LITTLE
TRIP OUTDOORS WITH HIM AND HIS DEAR ELVES. WE COULD
NOT RESIST THE OFFER! HERE’S WHAT WE’VE LEARNED.

1. Hiking in nature
Santa loves being out in nature. Maybe, it is
one of the secrets to his long life? Even the
science says that forest is a great relief for stress!
In the middle of Summer, there is no night in
Lapland, and your can be outdoors around the
clock. Pack your backpack with some matches,
tools and snacks and go out hiking! It’s so nice
to have a picnic at a “laavu” (or lean-to) after a
good walk. Fishing is also a good way to enjoy
some fresh air, and maybe get something extra
for lunch? Just watch out of mosquitoes!

2. Berry-picking
Berry-picking is one of Santa’s favourite
hobbies. There are many wonderful berries
that Lapland’s nature provieds us with, such
as bilberries (wild blueberries), cloudberries,
lingonberries and more. Finland’s Everyman’s
right guarantees that you can pick them for free
and without permission. Santa Claus’ favourite
berry is, of course, blueberry. Santa says that
tastes amazing in Mrs Claus’ blueberry pie!

3. Outdoor games
Evles like to engage in many wonderful
activities, such as Hide the Elf, Fill the Sleigh or
Find the Reindeer. If these sound a little bit odd
to you, Rovaniemi’s central beach offers many
opportunities to have fun: swimming in the
river, beach volley and disk golf. One particular
Finnish game that Santa likes to play is called
“Mölkky”. It is a throwing game that does not
require strength but skills. You can acquire your
set of “Mölkky” in a local hypermarket.

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018 35

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SANTA CLAUS VILLAGE

SANTA CLAUS VILLAGE IS THE BIGGEST ATTRACTION IN LAPLAND!
HERE, YOU CAN MEET SANTA CLAUS, SEND POSTCARDS TO YOUR FRIENDS FROM
SANTA’S POST OFFICE, AND FINDS SOME NICE SOUVENIRS FOR YOUR FAMILY.

SANTA CLAUS VILLAGE is open every day of
the year! Here, Santa Claus is waiting for you
in his office, together with his helpers, the
elves. Entrance to the Santa Claus Village, and
seeing Santa Claus is always free of charge.
Once you’ve met the man himself, you
can visit his Post Office and receive a special
stamp on your postcards or letters. The elves
will make sure that the letters are delivered
right away (orange box) or wait until next
Christmas (red box).
Behind Santa’s office, you can see how
his reindeer are training for the next winter
season. You can enter Santa Claus Reindeer
farm for a modest fee of 5€, pet the reindeer,
and take photos with them. The farm’s Lapland
Restaurant, modelled after the traditional
Sami tent, is also a great place for lunch.
At Santa Claus Village, you can cross the
mysterious Arctic Circle. It passes right
through the central square. Arctic Circle
means that north of this line the sun does not
set in summer.
Santa Claus Village also has many Finnish
design shops. You might have heard about
such Finnish brands as Iittala and Marimekko.
Their shops are situated in the wings of Santa’s
Office building. Here, you will also find the
outlet of local jewellery workshop Taigakoru,
famous for its nature-inspired pieces.
OPEN EVERY DAY 10–17.
SUMMER MONTHS:
EVERY DAY 9–18.
FREE ENTRANCE.
BUS TO SANTA VILLAGE
Marttiini factory shop who sells traditional
Finnish and Lappish knives is also worth
Bus #8 is a cheaper way to
checking out.
reach Santa Claus Village. The
In the Southern side of the village you
bus departs from the railway
will find Christmas house that tells about
station and passes by the city
the traditions of celebrating Christmas in
center. You can hop on the
different countries of the world. Christmas
bus at Sokos Vaakuna Hotel
house is also a great place to do some souvenir
(photo). Download timetable
shopping. Right nearby, you will find the
by scanning QR-code:
Three Elves restaurant, that you can visit both
for lunch and for dinner.
By the way, nowadays you can also spend
the night in the village! Santa Claus Holiday
Village with its cosy wooden cottages is a good
choice for the whole family stay.
www.santaclausvillage.info

36 ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

 1 2
SA N TA C L AU S O F F I C E
Santa Claus Office is the most mysterious
place on the Arctic Circle. Here, you can
meet with the timeless old man, and
whisper him a little Christmas wish on his
ear. Santa’s little helpers will be happy to
take a photo of this memorable meeting.
Santa Claus is the most known Finn in the
world, and he brings joy and goodwill to all
the people on the planet.
Free entrance. Open daily: 10–17.
Summer opening hours: 9–18.
www.santaclausoffice.com
4 5
C H R I ST M AS E X H I B I T I O N
The Christmas Exhibition showcases the
different traditions of how Christmas is
celebrated in Finland and around the world,
as well as the history of the Christmas tree.
The exhibition also includes fascinating
Christmas videos, including the Finnish
Broadcasting Company’s historical
television broadcasts about Finnish
Christmas traditions. The Christmas
exhibition is situated near the Santa Claus
Holiday Village.
Open daily: whenever Santa is around.
7 8
M A RT T I I N I S H O P
Marttiini knife factory in Rovaniemi turns
90 years in 2018. At Marttiini factory
shop you can buy traditional Finnish and
Lappish knives, as well as rare models with
reindeer horn and Damascus steel.
Open daily: 10–17. www.marttiini.fi.
SA N TA C L AU S P O ST O F F I C E
Santa’s main post office is the place where
all of the letters addressed to Santa go.
Each year, there are over 500 thousand
of them, so it’s only natural that elves give
Santa a little help in reading and replying
to them. At Santa’s post office, you can
send your letters with a special stamp, and
have them delivered right away or for the
next Christmas.
Free entrance. Open daily: 10–17.
Summer opening hours: 9–18.
www.santaclauspostoffice.com
T H R E E E LV E S R E STAU R A N T
The Three Elves Restaurant is situated
in the newly built reception building of
the Santa Claus Holiday Village. It is a
great place for lunch, and probably the
best place for dinner in the village. At this
atmospheric restaurant you will taste the
pure, genuine flavours of Lappish cuisine.
Have some “Laptapas”, or the selection of
best Lappish appetisers, roast whitefish or
reindeer! For dessert, go for the cheesecake
with fresh berries.
Open daily: 8–23. www.schv.fi
SA N TA’ S S H O P P I N G C E N T R E
Santa’s shopping centre is the place to
buy some presents and gifts for your
loved ones. Here, you will find many locally
produced souvenirs, such as kuksa cups,
wooden jewellery, and textiles.
Open daily: 10–17.
3
SANTA CLAUS REINDEER FARM
Santa Claus Reindeer Farm will give you a
sneak peak into reindeer herding. You can
pet the reindeer, feed them and make lots
of photos with them. Entrance fee is 5€.
You can also join the Reindeer Herder’s
Chores program and experience some of
the daily work at the farm, make a small
souvenir, cross the Arctic Circle on one of
the reindeer, and enjoy some tasty glow-
fried salmon. 65€ per person, 1 hour.
Opening hours: Mon–Sat: 10–16.
www.santaclausreindeer.fi
6
L A P L A N D R E STAU R A N T
Lapland restaurant, situated at the Santa
Claus Reindeer Farm, is one of the most
authentic restaurans in Rovaniemi. It is
run by the Körkkö family who are the local
reindeer herders. If you want to dive into
the world of Lappish gastronomy, this is a
good place to start. Here you can try dishes
made from famous Lappish ingredients,
such as the reindeer, salmon, mushrooms
and Arctic berries. The restaurant will start
its summer season on July 1st 2017.
Opening hours: Mon–Fri 12–16.
9
E L F ’ S FA R M YA R D
Elf’s farm yard is situated in the forest
behind Santa’s Office. Here, you can
meet some sheep and hens, and do
some elf chores such as treehugging and
coinmaking. Entrance 10€ adult/5€ child.
Open daily: 10–15.
ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018 37
 FINLAND TIPS | HAILUOTO

H
ailuoto is situated in the Gulf
of Bothnia, near Oulu. It is
Finland’s third-largest sea island
inhabited by around a thousand
of inhabitants throughout the
year. Hailuoto is a part of the
province of Northern Ostrobothnia, and is a
great place to stop by on your way to Lapland.
The views will certainly be a great reward for the
trip and the island will show you how beautiful

The island of
and diverse the landscapes of the North are.

Hailuoto

The island can be accessed with a ferry

service that is free of charge for the motorists.
Ferries depart from Ritunkari harbour in
Oulunsalo which is only 10 min away from
Oulu airport and E75 motorway. Trip takes
around 30 minutes and is an experience on its
own. Hailuoto is huge and its area covers over
200 km2. The island started to rise from the
Baltic Sea some 1.700 years ago and one day it
will merge with the mainland.
Hailuoto’s most picturesque spot is the
Marjaniemi lighthouse situated on its Western
shore. The lighthouse was
built in 1871 and served sailors
for many decades. The place
offers some truly magical
sunsets over the Baltic Sea. The Marjaniemi lighthouse is the most picturesque spot on Hailuoto.
There are many pristine sand
beaches where you can swim HAILUOTO Getting there:
on your own responsibility. Municipality in Northern Free ferry service operates
Marjaniemi is a great place for Ostrobothnia, near Oulu. between the mainland and
a daytrip or even an overnight Population: 981. the island. Ferry departs from
in the Arctic Lighthouse Area: 200 km2. Ritunkari harbour in Oulunsalo.
Hotel. A few cosy cafes and Population density: 5/km2. Go there by car, taxi or bus
restaurants can be found The island is constantly rising service. Ferry info & schedule:
nearby. Happy sightseeing! due to post-glacial rebound. www.finferries.fi

WELCOME TO HAILUOTO’S

A R CT I C L I G H T H O U S E H OT E L !
“See the best views on the island!”
W W W. L U O T S I H O T E L L I . F I

38 ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

05–28.05.2018 FRI–SUN | 01.06–12.08.2018 EVERY DAY | 17–26.08.2018 FRI–SUN | +358 40 192 34 64 | INFO@LUOTSIHOTELLI.FI
 LAPLAND TIPS | LUOSTO

Once you reach the top, you will be taken

into the wooden cabin where your guide will
tell you all about the origin of the amethyst
stone and the geology of the region. Amethyst
is a form of quartz, and it takes millions of years
for it to be formed. The name comes from the
Greek amethystos which refers to belief that the

The stone reliefs alcohol intoxication.

When amethyst was discovered in

Amethyst
Lampivaara, an important decision was made:
not to extract amethyst with heavy machinery,
but to make the mine a tourist attraction. It
would only take 5–10 years to dig everything

mine
up with machines, which would result in a giant
hole on the ground — not a very pleasant site!
So the amethyst is dug here only by hand,
with simple picks. With the present system, it
will take hundreds of years to mine it all, and
the natural beauty of the place will be intact!
Next, you will head to the open mining area,
where you will dig for amethyst. The amethyst
stone is naturally found here in abundance, so

A M E T H YST M I N E
Lampivaaara fell near Luosto,
110 km from Rovaniemi.
www.amethystmine.fi
28.05–15.08.2018: Every day 11–17
16.08–30.09.2018: Every day 11–16
1.10–31.10.2018: Tue–Sat 11–15
18,50€/adult & 10€/child 3-12 yo.
THE AMETHYST MINE is one of the most unique
attractions in Lapland. It is situated near Luosto
resort some 110 km away from Rovaniemi. The
mine is an absolute must place to visit if you are
making a road trip in northern Lapland.
Luosto’s nature is at its best in the middle of
summer and early autumn. The mine is situated
amidst Pyhä-Luosto national park and private
motoring is now allowed here. To get to the
mine, you need to park your car at Ukkoluosto
parking lot just South from the Luosto centre.
From here, it takes about 30–45 minutes to walk
towards the Lampivaara Fell on top of which
the mine resides. Guided tours to the mine start
every hour from the Lampivaara cafe. A long
wooden stairway leads to the top of the hill and
the climb offers plenty of opportunities to enjoy
the amazing landscapes of the national park.
there is no need to cheat and plant stones just
for the sake of tourists. In addition to amethyst,
there are more simple quartz stones to be found.
For the price of the entrance ticket, each visitor
can take one amethyst stone, large enough to
fit into one’s palm, for free. More stones can be
purchased on the spot.
Once you have found your amethyst, you can
enjoy a tasty lunch at the mine cafe. For around
10€, the lunch includes soup of the day and
bread. There is also a barbeque with firewood
nearby, where you can cook your own picnic
lunch. Many experienced tourists come here by
mountain bikes with their own picnic supplies.
The walk downhill from Lampivaara feels
much easier than the climb! Back in Luosto,
you can find the Little Mine Shop where more
amethyst stones and jewellery are also on offer.

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with 50 offices around the country. Our fleet includes
economy class cars, family & mid-class vehicles, SUVs,
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and our prices are very reasonable. You can pick up your
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ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018 39

Valtakatu 26, Rovaniemi. Mon–Fri 8–17, Sat–Sun 10–14. Tel. (24h) +358 16 342 0506 rovaniemi@scandiarent.fi www.scandiarent.fi

Hooked on trail running
T
rail running is a new
hobby which is rising
in popularity, especially
among younger people.
Unlike marathon races that
often take place on city
streets, trail running is done in the midst
of the nature. With its open terrain and
rugged fells, Finnish Lapland provides a
totally unique setting for events of this
kind. Trail running is also physically more
challenging than the normal marathon,
because it involves steep climbs and being
constantly on the lookout for rocks, tree
roots, and other obstacles on the terrain.
The trails range from 30 kilometres up to
160-km-long ultra marathon distances.
Northern Ultra Trail Service (or NUTS)
organises several trail running events
in Finland, three of which take part in
Lapland and Kuusamo. One of the men
behind NUTS is Jouko Kaarteenaho, who
developed his love for nature through
scouting when he was a little boy. In
2008, taking part in his first trail running
marathon in Koli, Finland, he got truly
bitten by the trail-running bug.
40 ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018
NUTS Karhunkierros trail running event takes place at the Oulanka national park.
Later, the association called NUTS
was founded, consisting of Jouko’s
scouting friends. Their first event NUTS
Karhunkierros took place in Kuusamo in
May 2013. That year the summer took
some time to arrive, and some hiking
trails were still covered with a thick
layer of snow. “We were afraid that our
first event would be a disaster, as some
parts of the trail had snow up to our
knees”, says Jouko. “Instead, it became an
unforgettable experience for the runners, Jouko Kaarteenaho is one o the men behind NUTS.
and the reputation of NUTS grew fast by
word-of-mouth”. The limit, however, went up from the 100
The number of participants in trail participants in the first year to 2,500 for
running events has grown exponentially. the upcoming event in 2018. Even with
Jouko does not know the exact reason larger quotas, NUTS Karhunkierros
behind it, but suspects that it has 2018 was sold out in a matter of days in
something to do with the friendliness October 2017. The competition follows
of the trail running community and the the legendary Karhunkierros hiking trail
beauty of nature. The NUTS events are of Oulanka National Park near Ruka
held amidst the beautiful forests and Holiday Resort in Kuusamo. Oulanka
fells of Lappish national parks, which National Park is famous for its breath-
also have their limitations. The Finnish taking sceneries, and every Finn knows
Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry sets the name of Karhunkierros hiking trail.
up quotas for the maximum number of Still, there is room for new participants
runners in order to protect the nature. in the two other NUTS events of summer
2018. The NUTS Ylläs-Pallas event will take place
on 13–14 July 2018. According to Jouko, this event
is truly unique, because it is held on the amazing
open terrain and rugged fells of Pallas-Ylläs
National Park. The area also offers plenty of nature-
related activities in summer, and taking part in the
trail running event might be a great way to spice up
your vacation. Pick a suitable distance for yourself
from the options of 30 km (suitable for beginners),
55 km, and 134 km.
The next event organised by the NUTS team is
the Pyhä Tunturimaraton on 11 August 2018. It
features some shorter distances of 10, 21 and 43
kilometres, and might be a great way of having the
first go on trail running. Situated at a 90-minute
drive away from Rovaniemi, Pyhä is a cosy place
and easy to fall in love with. Pyhä is easily accessible NUTS Ylläs–Pallas takes you up to the rugged fells of Lapland.
with a shuttle bus connection from almost every
flight arriving to Rovaniemi airport.
Of course, it is a good idea to start training
for the events early. For this, Jouko Kaarteenaho
recommends all kinds of outdoor activities as they
increase your fitness naturally. Another tip from
Jouko is to get proper equipment and test it out
thoroughly before the race.
“Well-fitting trail running shoes are an absolute
must. We also have some mandatory equipment
that you must take with you, such as a backpack
with a water supply and an emergency blanket.
The competition is quite long and aid stations are
situated at rather long distances apart”.
Info about trail running in Lapland:
nuts.fi & trailrunning.fi Pyhä Tunturimaraton is organised in August at the cosy Pyhä Ski Resort.

NUTS KARHUNKIERROS N U T S Y L L ÄS – PA L L AS P Y H Ä T U N T U R I M A R AT O N
25–26.5.2018 – Sold out 13–14.7.2018 11.8.2018

Event takes place in the beautiful Oulanka
national park near Ruka, Kuusamo.
Distances 31, 53, 80, 160 km. Registration
for the 2019 event begins in October 2018.
nutskarhunkierros.fi
Trail running race amidst the rugged fells
of Pallas-Ylläs national park. See what
true Lapland looks like! Choose between
distances of 30, 55 and 134 km.
nutsyllaspallas.com
Trail running event near the cosy Pyhä Ski
Resort. The race will take you on top of
the Pyhä fells and into pristine forests.
Distances are 10, 21 and 43 km.
tunturimaraton.fi

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018 41

 Secrets of the horn
IRENE AND ARI KANGASNIEMI ARE A UNIQUE COUPLE WHO KNOW MORE
ABOUT HANDICRAFTS THAN PROBABLY ANYONE ELSE IN LAPLAND.
YOU CAN VISIT THEIR WORKSHOP IN ROVANIEMI AND FIND OUT ABOUT
LOCAL TRADITIONS, THE LOCAL WAY OF LIFE, AND THE SECRETS OF
WORKING WITH NATURAL MATERIALS SUCH AS WOOD AND HORN.

42 ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

 Irene and Ari Kangasniemi will show you how to make Lappish handicrafts.
T
oday, making traditional handicrafts is
a vanishing skill. In the old days, each
family knew how to make things by hand,
because their everyday lives depended
on it. Nowadays, when you can buy almost
anything from the supermarket, the knowledge of
handicrafts is slowly getting forgotten.
Luckily, there are some exceptions! The secrets
of Lappish handicrafts are well maintained at the
Kangasniemi family workshop. The owners Irene
and Ari Kangasniemi have been involved in hand-
made crafts for decades.
In 1981, Irene started learning about handicrafts
at a local workshop. In 1983, she went to work in
the Inari region, where she met her future husband
Ari. He originally worked as a car mechanic, but
he did not shy away from handicrafts. These skills
were running strong in his family.
After spending a decade in southern Finland,
they decided to return to Rovaniemi, where they
started a workshop in 1995. By then, they had also
realised that there were many people who were
willing to actually see how handicrafts are made,
and designed their workshop accordingly.
Watching them work is truly fascinating. Ari
works with reindeer horn and wood. He produces
beautiful knife handles from reindeer horn. Every
one of them is a piece of beauty and a collector’s
item. He also makes traditional Lappish kuksa cups
out of birch gnarl. Such cups are extremely durable
and ecological. You can use them on hikes over and
over for decades, without producing any waste.
Irene’s main material is reindeer skin. Together
with Ari, they own a herd of reindeer, and, in
accordance with Lappish tradition, not a single part
of the reindeer is wasted. Irene produces reindeer
leather herself out of the thick reindeer pelt, and
dyes it with natural materials to achieve different
colours. She then uses the leather to produce
souvenirs, clothes, and even shaman drums.
Tourists are welcome to visit their workshop.
Their “Secret of the Horn” program is available
via local tour operators. A visit can be booked
from the Rovaniemi Tourist Office. The program
includes Irene’s fascinating presentation about
the Lappish people and their reindeer herding
traditions. She explains a lot about the traditional
Lappish handicrafts and different materials that
are used. You will also learn to assemble your own
souvenir which you can then take home with you!
You can make a pouche for herbal footbath with local healing herbs.
Irene says that she has always been drawn to
shaman drums, for no logical reason. She even
became skilled at making them. Irene was always
extremely interested in the history of the region and
the local people, and she has hours of fascinating
stories to tell about them. At some point, she felt
an urge to discover more about her own heritage.
Unveiling her ancestry beyond the generation
of her grandfather proved to be challenging. Her
grandfather had 26 children and was already
around 70 when Irene’s mother, now 86, was born.
Irene did not get a chance to ask her grandfather
about her own grandparents.
A few years ago, Irene bumped into a friend who,
much to her surprise, mentioned that he was her
distant cousin. It turned out that he had their family
charts dating back 8 generations. Irene managed
to track her ancestry back to Aikia Aikianpoika, a
Sami shaman who had been born in 1591 and died
in 1671 after having been sentenced to death for
witchcraft. She now believes that she has found
one reason for her obsession with shaman drums.
To honour her ancestor, she even made him a coat
out of reindeer leather, one that he would never
have the chance to receive.
Irene’s husband Ari is not much of a talker, and
he is happy to let his wife do all the explaining.
Apparently, Ari is not very fond of “supermarket
food”, and that pretty much determines their diet.
Most of the food that they consume comes from
the forest, including reindeer meat and fish.
Irene is passionate about berries and herbs.
Every summer, she fills up a few freezers with self-
harvested berries and wild herbs. This summer,
she is launching a new program with a focus on
the healing herbs of Lapland. During a visit, guests
will make herbal footbath pouches that contain
the following wonderful ingredients: birch leaf,
camomile, meadowsweet, heather, juniper, and
raspberry. The participants will take their pouches
with them to be used at home. Dried herbs keep
their healing aromas for up to 3 years.
Nowadays, Ari and Irene are training a new
generation of handcrafters to whom their skills will
be passed on. Ari’s nephew Jukka is completing his Kangasniemi Workshop:
artisan degree and regularly works at the workshop. www.hornwork.fi
A visit to the workshop will be an unforgettable
experience on every level! At the workshop you can Book your visit at
buy beautiful Lappish handicrafts, produced by Ari Rovaniemi Tourist Office:
and Irene. www.visitrovaniemi.fi
ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018 43
 KAFFE & HARRI:

THE PERFECT
DYNAMIC
DUO HARRI TARVAINEN IS ONE OF LAPLAND’S TOP
PHOTOGRAPHERS WHO SPENDS HIS TIME CAPTURING THE
REGION’S NATURAL BEAUTY. HIS DOG KAFFE IS HIS LOYAL
COMPANION, A MODEL AND A SOCIAL MEDIA STAR.

kaffegram harritarvainen

H
arri Tarvainen was born in 1983 in
Oulunsalo, near the city of Oulu. As a
child, he was more into arts than sports.
When other boys were out playing ice
hockey, he would rather spend his
time at an art school. A turning point
in his life came at the age of eleven, when he received
his first snowboard as a birthday present. Finally, he
had found a sport he liked! Later, at the age of 15, he got
his first camera, a Canon EOS300. Photography would
become a bridge between his strive for the visual arts
and his love of the winter sports. According to Harri,
taking photos of snowboarding was the best and most
demanding photography training anyone could have.
Later, he entered a senior high school of the arts. Kaffe & Harri having
fun on the ice of the
There he found an abandoned photo lab which he
Gulf of Bothnia.
restored. Harri preferred spending more time in the
lab than in classes, learning how to develop photos.
“It’s a magical moment when you can finally see how
an image emerges on a blank sheet of paper floating in
the developer liquid”, says Harri.
In 2003, Harri moved to Rovaniemi to study
graphic design in the University of Lapland. He has
fond memories of his time at university. The spirit of
freedom that was present at the university as well as
the support from other students were as important to
Harri as the study curriculum. Living in Rovaniemi, he
enjoyed the city’s proximity to nature.

44 ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

 “Rovaniemi has many great natural sites: the
Ounasvaara fell, the Arctic Circle hiking area, the
Santavaara fell… Even the cross-country ski tracks pass
right by the door of the student dormitory”, says Harri.
His commercial success in photography began
when he started publishing some of his photos in
snowboarding magazines. This opened doors for him
and he found new assignments and clients.
“I had always thought of photography as more of
a hobby. There came a time, however, when I finally
surrendered to the idea that this is my real job and
don’t have to look any further”, says Harri.
Since 2013, photography has been Harri’s full-time
job. He is intensively involved in the travel marketing
of Lapland and takes photos for the Ruka and Pyhä Ski
Resorts via the Kota Collective company. He finds the
Lapland travel industry fascinating.
“Finnish Lapland is literally the coolest place on the View from fell Santavaara in Rovaniemi.
planet right now, at least in my opinion!” says Harri.
According to Harri, today’s world is struck with an Finnish Lapland is literally the coolest
outdoors boom. He says that people are looking for place one the planet right now!
real and authentic experiences rather than those that
are deliberately designed and produced. With its vast
wilderness area, Lapland can provide everyone with
unique experiences and unexpected discoveries.
“Nowadays, people can make a living just by tapping
away on a phone or computer all day without stepping
out the door. Of course, that’s an amazing thing, but to
balance that in their free time, people are striving for
real, even primitive experiences. The feeling of being
cold, hungry, muscles aching after a hike, clothes dirty
with mud: all the things that can happen to you in
nature”, says Harri.

WHEN HARRI
MET KAFFE
Four years ago, a curly-coated retriever named Kaffe
stepped into Harri’s life. His name stands for a dog’s
dark fur, and for coffee, Harri’s favourite drink.
Thanks to Kaffe, Harri has found new kind of joy in
his photography. Taking photos for a living, he wasn’t
keen on using the camera in his spare time. Kaffe, who
by breed very much complements Harri’s love for the
outdoors, changed all that.
Harri & Kaffe are
a perfect dynamic Today, Harri is again living at his home region of
duo. Oulunsalo. According to Harri, the minds of the dog
and the photographer are filled with similar curiosity.
With Kaffe, he rediscovered his home area by doing
what he calls “our weekday voyages of discovery”. He
finds an interesting spot on the map and sets out to
explore it with Kaffe. He often takes his camera with
him, finding inspiration in documenting their journeys.
“Taking photos with Kaffe doesn’t feel like a job. We
are a perfect dynamic duo”, says Harri.
Their numerous weekday journeys have resulted in a
lot of photos. To share them, Harri registered a special
Instagram profile under Kaffe’s name. At first, he felt a
little bit embarrassed to have his dog on Instagram, but
later he found that it was actually a pretty cool thing.
“Doing Kaffe’s Instagram has taught me a lot about
Kaffe is a curly how the social media works!”
coated retriever who
shares Harri’s love Kaffe’s follower count has recently reached 21,000.
for adventures. According to Harri, on Instagram he has found

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018 45

support, inspiration, and new friends.
Harri is right about that. I’ve been following his
@kaffegram profile for a few years now, and I finally
decided to meet Harri and Kaffe in person. Before
conducting the interview, we agreed to meet on the
ice of the Gulf of Bothnia near Oulunsalo, where
many of the dynamic duo’s adventures take place.
Kaffe emerges from the back of the car, makes my
acquaintance, and we start walking towards the ice.
It’s the beginning of April and the ice is still quite
thick. Harri has trained Kaffe well. Occasionally,
he commands Kaffe to retain his spot for a photo.
Still, most of the time Kaffe is running around like
the Energizer Bunny, making the process of taking
photos both challenging and fun. Harri is correct:
this doesn’t feel like a job!
After the photo shoot, we head to the local bar to
discuss Harri’s work and hobbies. Entering the bar,
it becomes evident to me that Harri is a frequent
guest here: one of the bar’s walls is stacked full of
Harri’s best photos. Kaffe is patiently waiting under
the table while we discuss their adventures.

RUKA SKI
RESORT
Ruka Ski Resort in Kuusamo is a second home
to Harri. He has been visiting this place since
childhood, and his family even owns a holiday
cottage there.
In Harri’s view, Ruka provides the most amazing
opportunities for snowboarding and alpine skiing
in the region. Now, as a grown-up, he still regularly
enjoys cruising around the park or half-pipe on his
snowboard.
According to the administrative division, Ruka Snowboarder Arto Saraniemi enjoying the Ruka Ski Resort.
and Kuusamo belong to the region of Northern
Ostrobothnia with the capital in Oulu, and not to
Lapland. Still, for Harri Ruka feels like Lapland.
“With its Nordic nature and snowy popcorn
trees, Ruka delivers well on the expectations that
the Lapland brand evokes”, says Harri.
Due to the diverse nature of the area, Kuusamo is
one of Harri’s favourite places to take photos. One
of Finland’s most popular national parks, Oulanka,
is located in Kuusamo. Harri gives a warm
recommendation for visiting this park. According
to him, Oulanka has it all, from deep Siberia-like
forests and marshes to serpentines of wild rivers
and rugged fell-tops.
“River Oulankajoki is a perfect place for canoeing
and rafting. These activities can be booked from
local tour operators and are accessible even for
beginners and families”.
The Konttainen fell near the Ruka Ski Resort is
another place that Harri recommends for year-
round visiting. The fell is part of the Oulanka
National Nark, but you can get quite near it by
car. The fell is rather steep, but there are ladders
that lead to the top. According to Harri, winter
is the most beautiful time to visit Konttainen,
as then it is entirely covered with snow. He also
recommends the fell for freeriding, but you must
be an experienced freerider and have a local guide
with you. Kaffe heading down the slope of fell Konttainen in Ruka.

46 ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

 PYHÄ
In recent years, Harri has also discovered the Pyhä
resort and adores its calm and relaxed ambience.
According to Harri, Pyhä is a unique place for
freeriding. Some of the off-piste areas are even
accessible with regular lifts and are suitable for
beginners. For more experienced freeriders, Harri
recommends the Tajukangas area or, if you are
adventurous, the Noitatunturi fell. You will need
to walk on snowshoes for an hour to get there, but
you will be rewarded with great experiences and
freedom to choose your own lines.
“In Pyhä, you can meet some of the most
adventurous nature enthusiasts in Finland. You
can always find a buddy to accompany you on your
adventure to the top of the fell”, says Harri.
Pyhä is also home to the Pyhä-Luosto National
Park. It is best enjoyed in late summer and early
autumn, when the mosquito season is over.
“A hiking trip from Pyhä to the nearby Luosto
resort is an amazing experience that will offer you
magnificent landscapes!” says Harri.
Hiking trail between Pyhä and Luosto.

HARRI’S PHOTOGRAPHY TIPS

1 . PA C K YO U R B A G
Literally! Being out in nature, you never know
what you might encounter, so you should not
head outdoors empty-handed. In addition to a
camera with spare batteries, one should have a set
of matches, a Leatherman knife, first aid supplies,
some energy bars, toilet paper, and in summer, a
mosquito repellent. A light down jacket is also a
great accessory, as well as a power bank to charge
your smartphone.

2 . S TAT E O F M I N D
Curiosity is one of the virtues of a good
photographer. Behind the camera, you might notice
some little details that you otherwise wouldn’t. Spot
the shadows on the snow, the shapes of the snowy
trees, a bird’s feather lying on the ground, or your
own hands tarnished with ash from setting up the
fire. Live the moment and expect the unexpected!

3. FRAMING
Before you press the shutter button, think, is there
any way to make the shot even more awesome?
Usually, this kind of thinking yields results. Step
aside, or towards the subject, kneel down and find
an interesting foregrownd for your shot. Take lots
of photos. Sometimes, making a truly great shot
requires taking a few dozen of training ones!
Harri & Kaffe enjoying a trip
4 . S T O RY 5 . E N J OY T H E M O M E N T to the Oulanka national park.
A hiking trip might culminate with a great sunset, Looking for that perfect shot is usually fun, but
but there are many things that should happen can become a tedious formality. Take it easy on
before a truly great shot gets captured. I always yourself and remember: there are some days when
try to take several types of shots: a wide landscape it just doesn’t work out. If that happens, just pack Follow Harri and Kaffe:
shot, a tight detail shot, as well as a portrait. your camera and enjoy the nature. Inspiration has @kaffegram
Different angles help to tell the story better! its own ways to find you when it’s not being forced. @harritarvainen

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018 47

 A L O N E
W I T H YO U R H E A D
T E X T & P H O T O S B Y: A N N A PA K K A N E N
M
y name is Anna
Pakkanen and I live
in central Lapland, in
a small village called
Pyhä next to the Pyhä-
Luosto National Park.
I am a graphic designer and currently
I work for the National Park. I have a
difficult addiction to nature. Even though
my work is connected with nature, I’m
still using almost all of my free time out
and about, on trails, off trails, in the
woods and open fell areas. Welcome to a
small peek into my life!
A young man was thinking about
making a big change in his life. He asked
me what it’s like to live where I live. He
was planning to move away from the city
and was not quite sure if he would like it
here. I had told him in response to that
question: ”here you are alone with your
head”. There is not much to distract you,
not that many activities to choose from
and there are times when there’s almost
no one around. If you don’t know how to
be with yourself, you might find it difficult
here.
”Here” is not the end of the world.
Pyhä is a small village in central Lapland,
actually a combination of a ski resort and
an old village. There are approximately
48 ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018
200 people living in the village of Pyhä
year round and about 265.000 people visit
Pyhä-Luosto annually. This village lives
on seasonal tourism, and during some
seasons it can be very busy while dead
quiet during the other ones.
People and tourists come here because
of the nature, and some stay for good.
There are big fells, deep gorges and
massive rocky formations shaped by the
glaciers and everything is surrounded by
the old growth forests and beautiful “aapa”
mires. The area has a history as a sacred
place: the name ”Pyhä” means sacred or
holy in Finnish. The forest Sami people
used to live here, giving sacrifices to their
gods on the rocky ridges of the Pyhä
fells. The magnificent natural wonders of
this area were protected exactly 80 years
ago, as the first National Park in Finland,
Pyhätunturi, was founded.
I am no different. I used to live in a city
but found myself wanting out of it every
weekend. I too came here for the nature.
Plus, I got a job opportunity where I can
combine my current skills and my love
for nature. Now, I live in an old log house
with a view towards the highest fell in the
Pyhä-Luosto National Park. As I sip my
morning tea, listen to the fire crackling in
the fireplace, I can unhurriedly plan what
trail to take that day. I can start from my
doorstep if I want.
What about the business of being alone
with your head? That is probably one of
the most important reasons why I am
here. My head needs time to be alone.
I need silent trods trough the forests,
sun in the middle of the night, the tiny
honeysucle flowers that fill the air with
their intoxicating scent, dark approaching
storms, the smell after a rainfall and fell
tops from where I can see far enough to
have enough space for everything in my
head. Pyhä is not for everyone, but right
now, it is the place for me. And the best
part is, even if you are just visiting here,
you can still experience the same feelings.
The nature is so grand, it will make
you humble, even on a daytrip. You just
need to remember to pay attention, notice
that funny looking old log, wonder how
that flower can take the winds on a fell
top, admire how beautiful a rotting leaf
can look like and imagine the forces that
have sculpted the rocky shapes. If you
pass through all of this with your mind
somewhere else, or maybe you’d rather
be somewhere else, then perhaps Pyhä is
not for you. But I would recommend to
try, because a little holiness in your life
definitely won’t do you no harm!

A N N A’ S T I P S F O R E A S T E R N L A P L A N D
KIVITUNTURI HIKING
T R A I L , S AV U K O S K I
Hiking, daytrip
Kivitunturi fell situated in Savukoski
region is a true Lappish wilderness on
a small scale. The trail offers various
terrains and views from old forests
to stony gorges and open fell-top
sceneries. In addition to many nature
highlights, there are often quite a few
hikers. There are two trails to choose
from: 5,8 km (easy to medium) and 9 km
(medium to difficult).
View from Noitatunturi fell just before the storm, Pyhä-Luosto National Park.
L U O S T O N AT U R E H I K I N G
T R A I L, S O DA N K Y L Ä
Hiking, daytrip
A proper 18 km day hike in Pyhä-Luosto
National Park will make your feet tired
but your mind happy. The trail rises
twice to the top of Ukko-Luosto fell
but also gives calmness of old growth
forests and wonderful views. The trail
can be split into two days by booking
the Yrjölä rental hut, where you can
bathe in a sweet wilderness sauna with
fell views. Difficulty: medium to difficult.
A N N A PA K K A N E N
BASED IN: Pyhä, Lapland.
INTO: Hiking, fishing, drawing &
painting, handicrafts, ski touring &
freeriding.
OCCUPATION: Working at Visitor
Centre Naava and Pyhä-Luosto
National Park. Also a freelance
graphic designer.
pakkanen_anna
NUORTTIJOKI RIVER,
S AV U K O S K I
Hiking & fishing, 2-5 days
Nuorttijoki river meanders next to
the Russian border, in Urho Kekkonen
National Park. A 40km hiking trail circles
the river, a popular place to fish for
grayling, trout and whitefish. To reach
Nuorttijoki, one must drive endless
gravel roads but in return you get the
peace only a true wilderness can give.
The hiking trail is medium difficulty but
the area is remote and wilderness skills
are required.
ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018 49
 Y L L Ä S T H E O U T D O O R H E AV E N
T E X T & P H O T O S B Y: A L E X A N D E R K U Z N E T S O V
Y
lläs is situated 170 km
north from the Arctic
Circle. The area is
famous for its winter
activities, but the place
is equally fascinating
in summer. The landscape of Ylläs is
dominated by seven beautiful fells with
bold and rugged tops.
The combined population of the two
little villages in the area, Ylläsjärvi and
Äkäslompolo, is just about 700 people.
Still, Ylläs has all the necessary tourist
services including hotels, restaurants,
shops, and activities. The two villages are
connected by a scenic route that indeed
offers some very beautiful sceneries.
The nearest airport is situated in Kittilä,
a 30-minute drive from Ylläs. The airport
bus will take you all to Ylläs. If you rent
a car, you can get around more easily,
but it is also easy to move around using
a combination of walking, biking, and
taking a taxi.
This is the second summer since I
discovered the beauty of Ylläs. Now, I am
heading there with intention, and I will
be bringing some friends! We will have 4
days and 3 nights to spend here.
50 ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018
Admiring the Midnight sun from the top of Kellostapuli fell.
D AY 1 – T H E
N AT I O N A L PA R K
On the first day, we arrive in Ylläs in the
early evening. The Ylläs area is home to
the beautiful Pallas-Ylläs National Park
that stretches out to the wilderness for
dozens of kilometres. We plan to do a
short sightseeing hike and spend the night
in a tent in the forest, because it will save
us some money, and it is good fun as well!
We leave our car near Visitor Centre
Kellokas. It is already closed, but during
the day tourists can go there and find
lots of interesting information about the coffee. Why does coffee always taste best
national park and get some maps and tips if prepared on the campfire?
on where to go. We are headed towards By the time we have finished dinner,
Varkaankuru, a ravine that lies between it is already past 10 pm. Not to worry
the Yllästunturi and Kellostapuli fells. about darkness! It is the beginning of
With a nature trail to guide the way, this is July, still the season of the Midnight
an easy destination for families. Sun in Lapland. We climb to the top of
While we are walking through the Kellostapuli fell to admire this beautiful
beautiful forest, we see a herd of reindeer natural phenomenon. There is just
just a few dozen metres away. They sense us nothing better than this!
and run away into the forest. After a short It’s time for some sleep. We set up our
walk, we reach the stream of Varkaanoja tents and crawl into our sleeping bags.
and find a lean-to with a campfire site. Luckily, the mosquitos can’t enter the
It’s dinner time! It doesn’t take much time tent. Sleep comes easily with all this fresh
to fry some sausages and make a pot of air around us.

D AY 2 –   F A T B I K I N G
Next day we have breakfast at the lean-
to. It’s such a magical feeling to start your
day in the midst of the wilderness! After
breakfast, we go back and drive to the
Sport Resort Ylläs where our apartment
is waiting. A quick shower, a change of
clothes, and we are ready to go out again!
For today, we have chosen an adventure
with the local fatbiking guru Timo
Veijalainen from Team Sportia. He is a
real outdoors addict who knows even the
smallest pebbles here. For us, however, it’s
the first time riding fatbikes. I feel lucky
to have chosen an electric fatbike, which
is equipped with a battery.
The fatbikes feel surprisingly smooth
and easy to steer. Before we enter the
woods, Timo leads us through a meadow
filled with the soft whiteness of hare’s-tail
cottongrass. The climb starts to steepen
and I switch on the electric assist.
We arrive to the top of Kukastunturi
fell. From here you can see the landscape
for miles around. Surprisingly, there is a
little lake on top of the fell, and, apparently,
it is the favourite hang-out place for a
huge reindeer herd! Our cameras start
Trailrunning on top Kesänki fell.
singing! After a short break for hot tea and
sandwiches, it’s time to go back.
D AY 3 –   T R A I L
RUNNING
July is also the month when the NUTS
Ylläs-Pallas trail running event is taking
place. It gathers hundreds of sports
enthusiasts who compete on trails ranging
from 30 to 134 km. Thirty kilometres will
do for us beginners!
The competition departs right at the
Sport Resort Ylläs where our apartment
is situated. The runners are equipped with
backpacks filled with water bottles and
energy bars. Ready-steady-go! The race
starts with a steep climb that takes us
all the way round Yllästunturi fell. Next,
we descend to the familiar Varkaankuru
ravine where we just spent our first night
in Ylläs. Good memories!
The trail takes us towards the beautiful
Lake Kesänkijärvi. Fishing programs are
also available here, or you can just walk on
the lakeshore and admire the landscape.
Next, we encounter the steepest climb in
the area, the Pirunkuru ravine. The path
turns rocky and hard. Slowly but surely
Fatbiking through a field of hare’s-tail cottongrass.
Gondola lift at Sport Resort Ylläs.
we make it to the top of Kesänkitunturi
fell. Boy, what a view! I will return here
with the camera! The rest of the race is
a struggle, but after about five hours we
manage to cross the finish line!
Tonight, we feel that we deserve some
pampering. After a sauna bath and a little
rest, we head out to the best restaurant in
the area, the Aurora Estate. Its head chef
Sirly Schinmann prepares us a wonderful
three-course meal with reindeer meat,
risotto, Arctic crab, and more.
D AY 4 –   B Y E - B Y E ,
YLLÄS!
Waking up on the last day is a challenge.
Our legs can still feel yesterday’s rough
climbs. Before leaving Ylläs, we decide
to take a final excursion to the top of
Yllästunturi fell. Luckily, we don’t have
to walk as the Gondola lift takes us there.
Yllästunturi is the highest of the seven
fells of the area, and the view that opens
from here is breath-taking. The little cafe
on top of the fell cheers us up with tasty
burgers and hot chocolate. Ylläs, we will
definitely come back!
Info about Ylläs: www.yllas.fi
ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018 51
52 ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018
 The owners of the Aurora Estate Sirly Schinmann and Heidi Seikkula.
T
the Arora Estate was founded by
Sirly Schinmann and Heidi Seikkula
in a small village of Ylläsjärvi near
the Ylläs Resort in 2015. The ladies
had known each other for years and
had worked together before. When
a business opportunity presented itself, they could
not let it slip away.
Their skill sets complement each other perfectly.
Heidi brought in her nearly 20 years of experience
in the restaurant and hospitality industry. Sirly’s
life journey had taken her around the globe, to
places like New Zealand and Norway, where she
had polished her chef ’s skills before making Ylläs
her home. It took a while for the ladies to finalise
their concept. When the Aurora Estate opened its
doors in November 2015, it was unlike any other
businesses operating in Ylläs.
“We knew from the start that we needed to be
special, look different, make unique food, and
provide fine and friendly service”, says Heidi.
Today, the Aurora Estate includes a boutique
hotel with seven cosy rooms and 14 beds, a
restaurant, catering and private chef service, and
sauna programs. Several Finnish celebrities have
already visited the hotel as guests, and events such
as marriage proposals and romantic weddings have
taken place under its roof. In peak season, Heidi
keeps herself busy by organising private programs
for the hotel guests. The programs comprise
snowmobiling, husky rides, and, of course, festive
dinners at the hotel tepee.
Catering even for the most demanding taste,
the Aurora Estate is one of the best places to dine
in Lapland. The restaurant relies on pure Nordic
ingredients such as the Arctic crab, wild reindeer,
and cod. Most of the ingredients come from
local producers in Finland and in Sweden whose
border is just 40 km away. In summer, the hotel
owners harvest mushrooms and wild herbs from
local forests. According to Sirly, local, ethical, and
ecological food is today’s trend.
“I spent my childhood in the countryside in
Estonia and Finland. We raised all the animals
and grew all our food ourselves. I have known the
things that are becoming popular today already for
a long time. I feel that I am privileged”, says Sirly.
Sirly, the oldest of four sisters, started cooking
for her family at a young age, but she never really
thought of a career as a chef. When she realised
Deluxe room at the Aurora estate.
that the famous MasterChef franchise was
coming to Finland, she applied and finished
third. That finally sealed her fate.
The dishes prepared in the Aurora Estate
kitchen are engaging in many ways. They
are visually impressive and simple, and yet
reveal layers of textures. The appetizers are
light but packed full with flavour: delicate
mushroom soup, crayfish, sugar-salted
salmon, reindeer carpaccio… The main
dishes make use of the best ingredients in
season. Some of the most recent gems that I
had the pleasure of sampling were reindeer
filet, literally melting in my mouth, and
fried arctic char. The Aurora Estate is also
one of the rare places in Lapland where you
can have risotto prepared the way it should
be — crunchy al dente. And, speaking of
desserts, I very rarely take any, but I would
never miss one at the Aurora Estate!
Of course, wine can be as important an
element of the dining experience as the
food itself. Many of the wines served at the
Aurora Estate come from the ecological
Fontanafredda estate in Barolo, Italy.
“Nowadays, it’s very common that the
house wine is the cheapest one in the
selection. I believe that the house wine
should represent the spirit of the house, and
that’s why we have the prestigious Barolo as
our house wine”, says Heidi.
One of the amazing experiences that
a person can have at the Aurora Estate is
traditional smoke sauna. The preparation of
the sauna for bathing takes 8 hours. While
it is warming up, smoked reindeer is made
by attaching the meat to the sauna ceiling.
Smoke sauna has a unique ambience. Top AURORA ESTATE
the experience with a dip in the cold lake Tirroniementie 4C, Ylläsjärvi
and you will uncover new sides to life! Open from 6.6.2018.
This year, the Aurora Estate has been Tuesday–Saturday 17–21.
nominated for Boutique Hotel Awards. I
have no doubt that the ladies will do well Info and reservations:
there. I have one final thing to ask the ladies, info@auroraestate.fi
“Why is this premium restaurant situated +358 20 734 0800
in the middle of Lapland, instead of, for www.auroraestate.fi
example, in the busy Helsinki city centre?”
“Well, we feel very happy here. We know Summer events:
this place and its people, and we are happy 22.6.2018 – Midsummer party
to invite you to join us here”, says Sirly. 8.9.2018 – Octoberfest
ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018 53

L E
I
spent my childhood in southwest
Finland and already then the
woods were my playground. The
forest was a place where I could
let my imagination fly high above
the distant clouds. A place where
I could recharge my batteries. A never-
ending love story with Mother Nature.
We will stay together forever.
My dearest hobby is to spend time in the
wilds with my two dogs Räpsy and Seita,
both genuine Finnish Lapponian herders
by breed. I also love taking photos, and so
always carry a camera with me. And yes, I
take lots of photos!
Every moment we spend outdoors is
like a great adventure, all year round. The
biggest secrets of Lapland are the magical
light and our eight seasons. In summer,
54 ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018
E N C H A N T E D BY
V I
Lapland enjoys a period of the midnight
sun, “nightless nights” in Finnish. It is
a time when the sun does not set below
the horizon — there is light all through
the day and night. It is pretty cool. The
midnight sun is really something you
should experience at least once in your
life! And there is no better place to witness
this phenomenon than Levi.
After the blooming summer (believe
it or not, it is possible to have a proper
garden also in Lapland) it is time for
another season, the one we call “ruska”.
The landscape is painted with the copper
of the woods, the red of the leaves and the
gold of the wetlands. The magical Lappish
“ruska” is a vibrant masterpiece of the
autumn colours. The bright shades of the
autumn leaves act as messengers of the
T E X T & P H O T O S B Y:
VIRPI MÄKILÄ
THE WRITER IS A
PHOTOGRAPHER AND
OUTDOORS ENTHUSIAST
BASED IN LEVI, LAPLAND.
virpula
upcoming change; it is like a melancholy
farewell to the summer days, and it serves
as a reminder of the dark and cold winter
that is already looming around the corner.
For me, Instagram is the place to share
the photos I have taken, mostly nature
photos that include my dogs. I have met
many people who share my enthusiasm —
most of my Instagram friends have totally
fallen in love with Lappish landscapes, or
with dogs. I have also met some of them
face-to-face, and I can truly say Instagram
is an opportunity to find new friends from
all over the world. So if you are a member,
look me up at @virpula and @breaklevi.
I am happy to give you some good tips
about places to visit and about a few
secret photo locations!
 VIRPI’S TOP 3 TIPS FOR LEVI
B E R RY- P I C K I N G
Did you know that the wild berries of
the north are real superfood? The long
summer days and cool climate make forest
berries more aromatic and increase their
pigment content. Their unique aroma and
vivid colours are the products of flavonoids
and other polyphenols. You really should
taste fresh cloudberries, bilberries, and
lingonberries!
À la Carte
Open daily
Tähtitie 5, 99130 Levi Ravintola-Kiisa
Puh. +358 16 3215 500 ravintola_kiisa
N I G H T L E S S N I G H T,
ENDLESS LIGHT
There is nothing better than going on a
hike under the midnight sun with my two
dogs. It is such an incredible feeling to sit
by a calm lake in the middle of the night
or on top of a fell surrounded by complete
silence and feel the golden sun cherish
your cheekbones. Nothing more, nothing
less — enjoy the moment!
My favourite hiking places in Levi are
Kätkätunturi and the Ice Age Trail. For
longer hikes we head on to the magnificent
Pallas-Yllästunturi National Park. The
landscape changes enormously with the
seasons: in summer, the midnight light is
enchanting, while the autumn brings on
the blazing colours — on foot, you have
time to fully enjoy the beauty of nature!
And if you are lucky, you may see the first
Northern Lights already in September.
Tähtitie 5, 99130 Levi
Puh. +358 16 3215 500
FISHING
Fishing is a year-round activity in Finland;
only the methods and the species included
in the catch vary according to season.
River Ounasjoki in Kittilä is the largest
free-flowing river in Finland, and there are
also several lakes where to catch fish in this
region. Would you like to catch a grayling
or whitefish or trout?
You can fish from the shore or from a
boat, whichever you prefer. You can also
choose to go spin fishing or fly fishing.
Angling with a hook and line is free of
charge for people under 18 and over 65.
Others need a fishing licence, which you
can buy for a week or for a year. I can
already taste the aroma of a freshly-caught
grayling grilled on open fire!
BEST COFFEE
IN TOWN
Coffee House & Bar Levi | Open daily
BreakSokosHotelLevi Tähtitie 5, 99130 Levi CoffeeHouseLevi
breaklevi
ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018
Puh. +358 16 3215 500 55
coffeehouselevi
L A P L A N D
P H OTO G R A P H E R ’ S PA R A D I S E

T E X T & P H O T O S B Y: R AYA N N E L Z E I N

M
y name is Rayann Finland, with only the Utsjoki municipality
Elzein and I am a further north. It encompasses the town of
French photographer. I Ivalo, where the northernmost airport of
live in the Netherlands the European Union is located, as well as
and I often travel the ski resort of Saariselkä and, of course,
throughout the world. the village of Inari itself. Interesting
The Inari area in Finnish Lapland is the localities like Menesjärvi, Kaamanen or
place where I return every chance I have Nellim are also in the municipality.
to rest, to enjoy the nature and, of course, I first discovered Inari in the winter
to photograph it. of 2012 when, like many other people, I
The Inari municipality lies about 350 initially just wanted to see the Northern
kilometres north of the Arctic Circle and Lights. I was lucky to be successful with
is almost as far north as you can go in this by seeing them on my very first
night, with a strength that years later I
have only rarely seen again. A real Aurora
Borealis addiction grew into me, so I kept
returning to Inari several times every
winter and staying for longer periods.
This allowed me to get acquainted with
the locals. There are some people in Inari
that I can really call good friends now.
And stronger of all, I was for the first time
in my life really feeling connected with
nature and all that it has to offer.
After spending all this time in the
Inari area in winter, my first trip in the

56 ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

summer of 2016 was a true revelation.
Lapland is the place of rivers and forests,
of lakes and barren fell tops, of golden
light and pastel colours, sometimes all
at the same time. When in winter you
can really feel that life of the locals is all
about the snow and Aurora tourism, I
realised that in the summer months they
appear more relaxed, more like their true
selves, feelings that I also share now. I
can hike for kilometres, stay for hours
at a fireplace, without meeting anyone. I
never really manage to find this solitude
in winter. I am not saying that there are no
tourists in summer, but their numbers are
by far outnumbered by the winter visitors.
Summer in Lapland means that I also
discovered the amazing light of the
Midnight Sun. Due to the axial tilt of the
Earth, the sun does not set for extended
periods of time north to the Arctic Circle.
This is what is called the Midnight Sun. In
Inari, the Midnight Sun period extends
from approximately 21 May to 22 July.
Imagine yourself being immersed in 24
hours daylight, with the sun staying above
the horizon even during the “night” time.
There, the Golden Hour does not last
for just half an hour around sunrise and
sunset. No, it lasts non-stop between
10 PM and 4 AM. A true paradise for
photographers! Further south, you always
have to rush to get the shot at sunset or
sunrise, because you know that the light
will only last for a few minutes. In Inari,
you can take as much time as you want,
to not only compose your photos, but
also just take it all in for yourself. I really
R AYA N N ’ S T O P 3 I N A R I T I P S
K A U N I S PÄ Ä F E L L
Kaunispää fell is located above Saariselkä
with an altitude of 438 m. You can either
hike there from the village or take the
easy way and drive all the way to the top
by the asphalted road. Walk to the top
of the observation tower. From there,
you will have a 360 degree view on the
Inari area, the Urho Kekkonen National
Park, the Kiilopää fell, and even all the
way to Russia in the East.
advise you to do so. Sometimes, it is good
to forget that we carry a camera.
If you are lucky, summer is also the
time of year when you can see the
recently born reindeer calves wandering
in the wilderness with their mothers. The
mothers will be protective of their young
ones, so approaching them is not an
option. Just slow down, relax and watch
them from a distance.
It is in Inari that I have really discovered
who I want to be as a person and as a
photographer. My time there has been
a real eye-opener on how fragile the
environment is and especially in the Arctic
regions. I hope that you can experience
the same kind of revelations on who you
are and who you want to be when you visit
this extraordinary nature in the far north
of Finnish Lapland.
OTSAMO FELL
Otsamo fell is located just outside of
the Inari village, and has an altitude of
418 m. There are several hiking trails
leading to the top, with the shortest one
requiring just under 2 hours to reach the
summit. A shelter and fireplace are free
to use at the top, so don’t forget to bring
some sausages for your diner under the
Midnight Sun. The view towards Lake
Inari is exceptional, but feel free to look
around and take it all in.
R AYA N N E L Z E I N
Rayann Elzein is a French photographer
who fell in love with Inari region of Lapland
in 2012. Nowadays, he visits Inari several
times per year to capture some amazing
shots of northern lights and midnight sun.
rezphotography
www.rez-photography.com
JUUTUANJOKI RIVER
Juutuanjoki river flows right through the
village of Inari. A couple of kilometres
upstream, one of the trails leading to
the Otsamo fell starts, but you don’t
need to go that far. Near the suspended
bridge that crosses the river, I love to
stop at the fireplace and listen to the
roar of the river rapids just in front of
me. You can even walk there on a very
easy trail all the way from the village, but
still feel a total immersion in nature.
ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018 57
58 ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

НА МАШИНЕ ПО ФИНЛЯНДИИ
П
еред поездкой в Финляндию
стоит проверить исправ-
ность ближнего и дальнего
света и сигналов поворота.
Дети до трех лет должны путешество-
вать в специально закрепленном дет-
ском кресле. Ввоз антирадаров (точнее,
радар-декторов) в Финляндию запре-
щен. Если его обнаружат, то устройство
конфискуют, а вы получите штраф.
В Финляндии даже днем пользуются
ближним светом. В целях безопастно-
сти все пассажиры, включая пассажи-
ров на заднем сидении, должны быть
пристегнуты. Максимально допусти-
П А Р КО В К А В Р О ВА Н И Е М И
Б Е С П Л АТ Н Ы Е П А Р КО В К И
Супермаркеты на окраине предостав-
ляют клиентам бесплатную парковку
без ограничения по времени. Торговые
центры и магазины в центре города
часто предлагают бесплатную парков-
ку на 1–2 часа. Контроль за длитель-
ностью парковки осуществляется с
помощью синих парковочных часов,
которые можно приобрести в любом
супермаркете. Часы нужно оставить
под ветровым стеклом на видном ме-
сте, указав время прибытия на стоянку.
Время следует отмечать без опереже-
ния, так как если контролер это заме-
тит, вам грозит штраф 50€.
Самая популярная бесплатная сто-
янка в центре Рованиеми — у торговых
центров «Ринтеенкулма» и «Ревонту-
ли». Парковаться можно бесплатно
ФИНЛЯНДИЯ | ИНФОРМАЦИЯ
мая скорость за пределами населенно-
го пункта — 100 км/ч летом, а зимой
— 80 км/ч. В городе действует ограни-
чение скорости 50 км/ч. В Финляндии
штрафуют за превышение скорости в
6 км/ч и выше. Минимальный штраф,
даже для иностранца, составит поряд-
ка 170€.
Глубина протектора летних шин
должна быть не менее 1,6 мм, а зимних
шин не менее 3 мм. На зимнюю рези-
ну в Лапландии начинают переходит в
первой половине октября.
Весь север Финляндии, в том числе
Лапландия и регионы Куусамо и
2 часа, кроме небольшого пятачка у
южного входа, где «быстрая» парков-
ка на один час. Верхний ярус стоянки
«Ринтеенкулма» предлагает платную
парковку на весь день за 4€.
В ТЦ «Сампо» первый час парковки
бесплатный, после чего плата 1€ в час.
При въезде в автогараж автомат вы-
даст вам парковочную карту. Ecли пар-
ковка длилась больше часа, ее нужно
оплатить в паркомате рядом с лифтом
торгового центра.
П Л АТ Н Ы Е С ТОЯ Н К И В Ц Е Н Т Р Е
Все параллельные парковки в центре
платные: по будням с 8 до 18 и по суб-
ботам с 8 до 16. Оплата производится в
парковочных автоматах: цена — 1,40€ в
час. Чек от паркомата нужно положить
под ветровое стекло.
Кайнуу, являются зонами оленеводче-
ского промысла. Это значит, что олени
на дорогах не просто случайность, а
закономерность. Водители предупре-
ждают друг друга об оленях на дороге,
моргая дальним светом. Кроме того, в
местах пересечения оленьих пастбищ
ставят специальные предупреждающие
знаки. Лоси крупнее оленей и пред-
ставляют еще большую опасность на
дорогах. Если вы сбили животное, по-
звоните в полицию по телефону 112. Не
бойтесь, государство возместит ущерб
оленеводу. Желаем вам хорошей и без-
опасной дороги!
Т И П Ы П А Р КО В О К
Тип парковки можно определить по
знаку. Например, пиктограмма парко-
вочных часов и надпись 2h, означает,
что бесплатная парковка разрешена на
два часа с использованием парковоч-
ных часов. Если на знаке пиктограмма
парковочного автомата, значит пар-
ковка платная. Часто можно встретить
надпись VARATTU (занято), если пар-
ковка закреплена за кем-то. Ищите ме-
сто с надписью ASIAKAS (клиент) или
VIERAS (гость).
ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018 59

Пункт возврата такс-фри в Рованиеми находится в Деревне Санта Клауса.
В О З В РАТ ТА КС- Ф Р И
ТАКС-ФРИ — это система возврата на-
лога НДС с покупок в ЕС. Ставка на-
лога на продукты питания составляет
14%, на остальные товары — 24%. Это
— одежда, обувь, бытовая техника и
т.д. Имейте в виду, что если у вас есть
ПМЖ в Европе, тогда вы не можете по-
лучить возврат налога НДС.
Минимальная сумма покупки — 40€.
Товар должен быть опечатан специаль-
ной лентой и пользоваться им можно
только за пределами ЕС. Для оформ-
ления чека вы должны предоставить
загранпаспорт. Покидая Европу, вам
необходимо подтвердить факт вывоза
товара из ЕС печатью таможни. Особо
исполнительные служащие таможни
могут попросить предъявить товар.
Ч АС Ы РА Б ОТ Ы
М А ГА З И Н О В
В Финляндии супермаркеты обычно
работают до 21–22 часов по будням и
субботам, и до 18–19 по воскресеньям.
Раньше магазины должны были закры-
ваться на праздники, но теперь могут
работать, если захотят. «Призма» Ро-
ваниеми, например, открыта теперь
практически каждый день. Обычно же
«Призма» Рованиеми работает с 8 до
22 по будням и по субботами и с 11 до
22 по воскресеньям. Ночью продукты в
Рованиеми можно купить в круглосу-
точном магазине «Sale» в центре горо-
да (Koskikatu 11). Основные продукты
питания можно купить крулосуточно
на автозаправках «Шелл» в Рованиеми.
60 ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018
ФИНЛЯНДИЯ | ИНФОРМАЦИЯ
Вы сможете получить возврат в тече-
нии года с момента оформления чека.
Сумма, которую возможно получить
обратно с покупки составляет, в сред-
нем, от 9% до 12%.
Пункт возврата такс-фри в Ровани-
еми находится в Деревне Санта Клау-
са, в информационном бюро. Раньше
здесь действовала система возврата
Early Refund, то есть «Купи – получи
такс-фри сразу», не доезжая до тамож-
ни. Однако, с начала 2018 года здесь
действует и привычная нам система
Late Refund, то есть прием чеков по си-
стеме после получения штампа тамож-
ни. Пункт работает каждый день с 10
до 17. Больше информации о такс-фри:
www.globalblue.com
А Л КО ГОЛ Ь
И С И ГА Р Е Т Ы
Алкоголь крепостью до 5,5% можно
купить на вынос в супермаркетах, ки-
осках и заправках. Такими напитками
являются пиво, сидр и любимый фин-
нами джин-тоник «lonkero». Продажа
этих напитков в магазинах запрещена
после 21.00. Торговать алкоголем креп-
че 5,5% имеют право только магазины
государственной монополии «Алко».
В Рованиеми есть три таких магазина:
в центре города (ТЦ «Ринтеенкулма»),
в «Призме» и «Ситимаркете». В Ивало
«Алко» находится в «C-Маркете», в
Салле — в «К-Маркете». В Куусамо вы
найдете «Алко» в «Ситимаркете».
Магазины «Алко» работают в будние
дни с 9 до 20–21, в субботу с 9 до 18, а
воскресенье и в праздники они закры-
ты. В «Алко» можно купить весь спектр
алкогольной продукции — вино, пиво,
водку, виски, коньяк и т.д.
В барах, ресторанах и ночных клубах
алкоголь продают только для употре-
бления на месте. Продажа алкоголя
разрешена максимум до 03.30, но ча-
сто, особенно в будние дни, увесили-
тельные заведения закрываются гораз-
до раньше.
Сигареты в Финляндии можно ку-
пить в супермаркетах, мини-маркетах
«R-Kioski», на заправках, в барах и ре-
сторанах. По закону сигареты не могут
быть показаны на витрине, поэтому
сигареты покупают через специальный
терминал на кассе, или тихонько спра-
шивают у продавца, как-будто делают
что-то нелегальное. Что поделать —
такие законы!
 РОВАНИЕМИ | РАЗМЕЩЕНИЕ
Хостел «не как у всех»
МУРМАНЧАНКА АЛИСА БОГАТЫРЕВА ПРИЕХАЛА УЧИТЬСЯ В РОВАНИЕМИ В 2012 ГОДУ.
ЗА ЭТИ ГОДЫ ОНА ИЗУЧИЛА РЕСТОРАННУЮ СФЕРУ ГОРОДА И ДАЖЕ ОТКРЫЛА СВОЙ ХОСТЕЛ.
А
лиса Богатырева приехала в Ро-
ваниеми из Мурманска в 2012
году. Она поступила в Лапланд-
ский университет прикладных
наук на программу международного бизне-
са. Через три года она открыла в Рованиеми
семейный бизнес — ресторан русской кухни
«Blin&Beer». Ресторан просуществовал все-
го полгода, но многому научил Алису про
бизнес в Финляндии. Ее новый бизнес-про-
ект — это хостел WherЕver, который от-
крылся в Рованиеми в ноябре 2017 года.
Ресторан «Blin&Beer» пользовался попу-
лярностью среди местных. Почему же он
закрылcя так быстро?
— Родителям не дали рабочие визы. Папа
был директором ресторана, мама работала
на кухне. В тот год в Финляндию приехало
много беженцев, и ситуация с выдачей виз
осложнилась, — рассказывает Алиса.
Закрытие ресторана стало тяжелым ис-
пытанием для Алисы, так как она считала
ресторанный бизнес своим призванием. На-
конец, она осознала, что рынку надо пред-
лагать такие услуги, в которых он действи-
тельно нуждается, а не “навязывать” ему то,
что интересует лично предпринимателя. В
последние годы туристический бизнес в Ла-
пландии развивается быстрыми темпами, и
ощущается острая нехватка в размещении.
Так, на месте ресторана и возник хостел
WhereEver.
«Бутик-хостел», как его в шутку называет
Алиса, небольшой, но уютный. В нем 2 об-
щие комнаты, которые могут вместить по
6 человек на двухъярусных кроватях. Есть
большая кухня и общая гостиная. Цена на
одно место варьируется от 25€ до 100€, в за-
висимости от сезона.
Алиса старательно украсила хостел ре-
тро-мебелью и коврами. На столе — живые
цветы. В прихожей — позолоченные чемода-
ны, на которых лежат свежие выпуски жур-
нала «Вог». Обстановка в хостеле не похожа
ни на одно гостиничное заведение в городе.
— Винтажную мебель я ищу в местных
секонд-хендах. Здесь такие вещи обесцени-
ваются, а в России это считается круто. Че-
моданы достались от дедушки, я только по-
красила их в золотой цвет, — говорит Алиса.
В хостел приезжают гости со всего мира,
особенно из Азии. Они едут в Лапландию,
чтобы увидеть северное сияние. Клиентам
нравится атмосфера отеля, но финнов такой
интерьер приводит в недоумение.
— Финны очень консервативны, и дума-
ют только в одном направлении. Они лепят
везде в отелях свой скандинавский стиль,
эти рога. Конечно, здесь это прокатывает, но
я устала от этого. Я хочу сделать все макси-
мально не скандинавское, — говорит Алиса.
А что Алиса может порекомендовать ту-
ристам из России?
— Во-первых, это природа, воздух, возмож- WHEREVER HOSTEL
ности для занятия спортом. Во-вторых, Kansankatu 10, Рованиеми.
здесь более качественные продукты. В тре- +358 40 725 05 51
тьих, здесь очень хорошо организован ту- whereverhostel@gmail.com
ризм, например, фермы оленей и хаски. @whereverhostel в соцсетях
ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018 61
 ФИНСКАЯ СИСТЕМА
ОБРАЗОВАНИЯ
СЧИТАЕТСЯ ОДНОЙ ИЗ
ЛУЧШИХ В МИРЕ.
КАК ОНА УСТРОЕНА?
МОГУТ ЛИ
ИНОСТРАНЦЫ УЧИТЬСЯ
В ФИНЛЯНДИИ?
ПОПРОБУЕМ
РАЗОБРАТЬСЯ!
Образование в Финляндии
НАЧА ЛЬНАЯ И СРЕДНЯЯ ШКОЛА
Финляндия является единственной
страной, где отец имеет право на ме-
сяц отпуска по уходу за ребенком. Для
мамы — это 10 месяцев. В детский сад
ребенка можно отдать в 9 месяцев, что
будет являться первой ступенью до-
школьного образования.
В 6 лет дети идут в обязательный
подготовительный класс, после кото-
рого переходят в среднюю школу, где
получают 9 классов бесплатного об-
разования. Учиться в средней школе
могут только те иностранцы, которые
имеют вид на жительство.
Главная цель финской средней шко-
лы — развивать ребенка, в том числе
и творчески. В школе стараются не пе-
регружать детей домашними задани-
ями. Обучение имеет элементы игры
и практики. Классы стараются делать
веселыми и яркими, а перемены длин-
ными. Среднюю школу дети заканчива-
ют в 16-17 лет. После этого есть выбор:
продолжить обучение в лицее (lukio),
или поступить в профессиональный
колледж. В лицее дети получают гораз-
до больше свободы выбора, и ребенок
сам составляет себе расписание. Глав-
ное — за три года пройти 75 курсов, а
как ты это сделаешь, зависит от тебя.
Третий год обучения в лицее укоро-
ченный, таким образом, в распоряже-
нии учеников два месяца подготовки
к финскому ЕГЭ. Очень важно зарабо-
тать высокие баллы, так как они имеют
большую роль при поступлении в уни-
верситет. Профессиональный колледж
отличается тем, что кроме обычных
предметов, там начинают изучать при-
кладные науки.
62 ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018
В Ы С Ш Е Е О Б РА З О ВА Н И Е
Следующая ступень после лицея —
поступление в университет. Для полу-
чения диплома бакалавра необходимо
учиться 3–4 года, а до магистра нужно
попотеть еще минимум пару лет. Так
как максимальный срок обучения не
ограничен, многие студенты на прак-
тике получают диплом 7–8, а то и 10
лет. Часто это обусловлено еще и тем,
что студентам приходится подрабаты-
вать, и на учебу остается мало време-
ни. Стипендия в Финляндии хорошая
и составляет несколько сотен евро, но
страна-то ведь дорогая!
Высшее образование можно про-
должить и в политехническом инсти-
туте, или, как заведение называют в
Финляндии, университете прикладных
наук. Оба вида образования ценятся
одинаково высоко. Университет делает
бóльшую ставку на теорию и самообра-
зование. В «политехе» меньше теории
и больше профессиональной практики.
ВУЗ Ы Р О ВА Н И Е М И
Лапландский университет — самый
северный в Финляндии. Здесь четыре
факультета: дизайн, педагогика, соци-
альные науки и юриспруденция. Ино-
странные студенты, имея за пазухой
диплом бакалавра, полученный в своей
стране, могут поступать на обучение
на английском языке в магистратуре
или докторантуре. Кроме того, здесь
можно учиться по обмену.
В 2017 году финский парламент при-
нял закон, обязывающий вузы взимать
плату за обучение у нерезидентов EC.
Теперь обучение в магистратуре на
английском языке в Лапландском уни-
Лапландский университет в Рованиеми.
верситете будет стоить 8.000€ в год!
Докторантура же остается бесплатной.
Университет заинтересован в ино-
странных студентах, поэтому суще-
ствует и система стипендий. По итогам
вступительных экзаменов четверть
студентов получает образование бес-
платно, четверти предоставляют скид-
ку 50%, а остальным — скидка 25%.
Обучение длится 2 года. Предлагаемые
специальности: Arctic Art and Design;
Media Education; Tourism, Culture and
International Management (TourCIM); и
Northern Tourism.
Еще один вуз Рованиеми — Лапланд-
ский университет прикладных наук
(LapinAMK). В нем имеется четыре
программы бакалавриата: Business
Information Technology; International
Business; Nursing; и Tourism. Стои-
мость обучения также 8.000€ в год. А
есть ли скидка? Есть!
Всем иностранцам-первокурсни-
кам LapinAMK дается скидка 80%, то
есть первый год обучения обойдется в
1600€ без затрат на еду и размещение.
Дальше скида будет зависеть от успе-
ваемости. Обучение рассчитано на 4
года. При выполнении необходимого
количества кредитов, скидка на второй
и третий учебный год составит 60%
(3.200€ в год), а если студент выпустит-
ся в срок, то ему вернут плату за по-
следний год. В итоге, диплом бакалав-
ра можно получить за те самые 8.000€.
Уже лучше!
Поступление на англоязычные про-
граммы в Лапландском университете
и LapinAMK начнется в декабре 2018.
Информацию можно найти на сайтах:
www.studyinlapland.fi, studyinfo.fi.

Из степей Казахстана
в снежную Лапландию
АСЛАН МАКИШЕВ родом из Костаная
на севере Казахстана. В Рованиеми он
поступил на платное обучение в Уни-
верситет прикладных наук в 2017 г. Уже
заканчивая лицей в Казахстане, он по-
нимал, что хочет учиться за рубежом.
— В Казахстане ловить нечего. Даже
если у тебя красный диплом или высо-
кие баллы, это не гарантирует, что ты
получишь грант в университете или
устроишься на работу.
Идею учиться в Финляндии ему под-
сказала школьная учительница. Аслан
принял решение готовиться не к ЕНТ
(ЕГЭ в Казахстане), а к поступлению
в финский вуз. Подготовка заняла два
месяца и включала в себя интенсивные
курсы английского. Вступительный эк-
замен проходил дистанционно и состо-
t ’ s C r e a t i v e .
I
У З Н А Й Т Е О Б О Б У Ч Е Н И И В Л А П Л А Н Д И И. W W W.STU DYINLAPLAND.FI
ял из эссе о финской компании, мате-
матики и дискуссии с носителем языка.
Аслан подал в несколько разных уни-
верситетов Финляндии, включая Оулу,
Тампере и Лаппеенранта. В итоге, его
принял Университет прикладных наук
Рованиеми (Lapin AMK). В Рование-
ми он приехал в августе 2017 года, где
получил комнату в студенческой квар-
тире. Студенты в Рованиеми имеют
право на недорогое размещение, кото-
рое предоставляет организация DAS
(www.das.fi). Однако, на месте его жда-
ли лишь голые стены. Обустроиться
в столице Лапландии ему помог отец,
который и привез Аслана в Рованиеми.
Город Аслану понравился сразу.
— Здесь чистый воздух и доброже-
лательные люди. Университет один из
лучших в Финляндии, и само обучение
проходит интересно, говорит Аслан.
Аслан учится на Международном
бизнесе (International Business). Об-
учение для нерезидентов ЕС стало в
Финляндии платным с 2017 года. Стои-
мость обучения в Рованиеми — 8.000€
в год, но учащиеся получили скидку
80% на первый год обучения, заплатив
1.600€. По словам Аслана, это сопоста-
вимо с платой в лучших вузах Казах-
стана, но он видит здесь больше пер-
спектив:
— Учиться в Финляндии эффектив-
нее, проще и интереснее, и ты точно
будешь знать больше чем в Казахстане.
В программу обучения входят курсы
по бизнесу, информационные техноло-
гии, английский и финский язык, про-
блемное обучение (PBL). В группе есть
студенты из Финляндии, Азии, Европы,
Южной Америки и Чечни. Единствен-
ный “минус” — много домашних зада-
ний, однако большой плюс — возмож-
ность общаться с носителями языка и
совершенствовать свой английский.
Обучение по программе магистра-
туры длится 4 года. По окончанию об-
учения Аслан планирует найти здесь
работу, или поступить на магистратуру
в другую европейскую страну:
— В Казахстан я не вернусь, буду ис-
пользовать любой шанс, чтобы остать-
ся в Европе. Однако жену я бы хотел
найти из Казахстана!
В Рованиеми два вуза, где можно
учиться на английском. Лапландский
университет предлагает двухгодичное
обучение на магистратуре, а Универси-
тет прикладных наук — обучение на ба-
калавриате, куда можно поступить сра-
зу после школы. Подача документов на
2019 год начнется в декабре 2018 года.
www.studyinlapland.fi, studyinfo.fi.
Самые северные вузы
ЕС предлагают обучение
по творческим и другим
специальностям.
ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018 63
 З О О П А Р К РА Н УА
ЕСЛИ У ВАС ЕСТЬ свободный день, посетите деревушку
Рануа, что в часе езды от Рованиеми. Здесь вы увидите
полярных сов, росомах, рысей, лосей, оленей, красных и
серых волков, и даже полярных медведей, у которых по-
полнение в семействе! Медвежонок Сису растет и игра-
ет здесь целыми днями с мамой и разными игрушками!
Летом в зоопарке открыта ферма домашних живот-
ных. В главном здании зоопарка есть ресторан,
где подают обед в формате шведский стол.
Зоопарк работает каждый день с 10 до 16.
Инфо: russia.ranuazoo.com.
ДЕТСКИ Й

С А Н ТА П А Р К
САНТАПАРК — это подземная развлека-
МИР
тельная пещера, где живут эльфы. Они по-
кажут вам свою мастерскую и научат делать
новогодние украшения. Миссис Санта угостит
вас имбирным печеньем, а Санта Клаус будет ждать
вас в своем офисе. Даже летом вы сможете заглянуть
в царство Снежной Королевы и посмотреть на ледяные
скульптуры. Не забудьте посетить площадку Angry Birds и
отправить открытку родственникам от настоящих эльфов.
Tarvantie 1, Рованиеми. Открыт с 25.6 по 11.8.2018.
Часы работы: Пн-Сб с 10 до 17. Билеты 17,50€/15€.

МУЗЕИ
СХОДИТЕ С ДЕТЬМИ в интерактивный научный центр
«Пильке» и в краеведческий музей «Арктикум». Оба
находятся как раз по-соседству! В центре «Пильке» все
экспонаты интерактивные — можно все потрогать и по-
нажимать разные кнопочки. Здесь есть головоломки, и
игра в охоту, и лесное караоке. Таким образом, играя, вы
познакомитесь с финским лесом!
В музее «Арктикум» вы увидите северное сияние, ус-
лышите звуки финского леса, а также узнаете о жизни
коренных народов Арктики — эскимосов, ненцев и, ко-
нечно же, саамов!
Ounasjoentie 6, Рованиеми. Часы работы: c 10 до 18.
Единый билет: 20€ взрослый, 10€ детский (7–15 лет).

АКТИВИТИ-ПАРК
САМОЕ ЛЮБИМОЕ МЕСТО для детей в Рованиеми — это
активити-парк «Хоп-Лоп». Дети готовы ходить сюда
хоть каждый день! Парк до отказа набит развлечениями:
тут есть батуты, машинки, горки и лабиринты с препят-
ствиями. Возраст посетителей от 0 до 12 лет. Если ваше-
му чаду больше 7 лет — добро пожаловать в соседний
павильон «Ролло-Халли»! Здесь уже батуты посерьезнее!
Eсть бассейны с поролоном и площадка для паркура.
Napapiirintie 14, Рованиеми. Пн-Вс 10–20.
Взрослые и младенцы: 0€. Дети 1–2 лет 10€,
От 3-х лет и выше 15€. Вход в оба парка 18€.

64 ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

А М Е Т И С ТО В Ы Й РУД Н И К
АМЕТИСТОВЫЙ РУДНИК находится в
5 км от горнолыжного центра Луосто.
Расстояние от Соданкюля до Луосто
40 км, а от Рованиеми — 120 км. Аме-
тистовый карьер расположен на самой
вершине живописной сопки «Лампива-
ара», откуда открывается замечатель-
ный вид на окрестности. Экскурсии
на рудник вместе с гидом стартуют от
подножья сопки каждый час. После
восхождения на сопку вам расскажут
об аметисте, деятельности рудника и
геологии региона, а также угостят го-
рячим соком. Затем вы отправитесь в
карьер на поиски вашего счастливого
камня! Добыча аметиста здесь ведется
только вручную, обычными кирками. В
этом смысле рудник уникален, так как
основное его назначение — туризм.
Конечно, аметист могли бы добывать
и промышленным способом, однако в
таком случае камня хватило бы на 5–10
лет.
Рудник располагается на территории
национального парка Пюхя-Луосто —
тут бережно относятся к природе, а
движение автотранспорта ограничено.
Желающим посетить рудник рекомен-
дуют доехать до одной из парковок
рядом с автотрассой, а потом продол-
жить путь пешком или на велосипеде.
Ближайшая парковка «Укколуосто» на-
ходится в 2,5 км от рудника. Путь к руд-
нику проходит по живописной местно-
сти и займет около получаса. В цену
билета входит один камень, который
поместится в кулаке нашедшего его, но
за дополнительную плату можно ку-
пить камни побольше или уже готовые
украшения из аметиста. У подножья
рудника есть кафе, где можно вкус-
но перекусить и отдохнуть. Рядом с
кафе находится мангал, где вы можете
устроить свой пикник. В центре Луосто
есть сувенирный магазин рудника, где
продаются изделия из аметиста.
Р Е Ж И М РА Б ОТ Ы
28.05–15.08.2018: ежедневно 11–17
16.08–30.09.2018: ежедневно 11–16
1.10–31.10.2018: Вт–Сб 11–15
18,50€/взрослый, 10€/детский (3-12 лет).
www.amethystmine.fi

ЗООПАРК Зоопарк Рануа находится в 80 км к

югу от Рованиеми. В зоопарке про-
РАНУА живает около 200 особей более чем
50 видов северных животных. У нас
есть медведи, волки, хищние пти-
цы, серые и красные волки, рыси,
росомахи и другие животные! В
зоопарке подрастает очарователь-
ный белый мишка по имени «Сису»!
Я СОВА Целыми днями он весело играет на
ЛА
БЕ улице с мамой. Приезжайте в гости
РЫСЬ к нашим животным! Зоопарк работа-
МЕДВЕ М Е Д ВЕ ет каждый день в году. Часы работы
ЫЙ ДЬ ЫЙ ДЬ
УР ЕЛ с 10 до 16, летом с 9 до 19.
Б

Bu
us

bo s ac
candi russia.ranuazoo.com
Lynx lynx
www.gulo.fi
os
us

U rs i 65
us arct Ur
sus martim
ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018
 О РА Н Ж Е В А Я Г О Р К А ,
или веселые приключения в Лапландии
П
рошлым летом наша
семья впервые посетила
Финляндию. Собирались
мы долго, лет 20. Сначала
не было машины, потом
дороги, потом не давали
визу. Родился ребенок, и поначалу далеко
путешествовать не хотелось. В августе 2017
года все наконец-то срослось: ребенок
подрос, виза сделана, машина застрахована.
Правда, дороги по-прежнему нет.
Путь из Архангельска до Рованиеми
предстоял длинный, 1500 км. Хорошо, что у
жены есть водительские права, вдвоем по-
легче. Изначально был план переночевать
в Медвежьегорске, но потом мы увлеклись
и решили ехать без ночевки, да и ребенок
на удивление хорошо переносил дорогу.
Видимо, заполярное солнце зарядило всех
энергией. Приехали мы в Рованиеми ближе
к ночи, остановились у родственников.
Сын от длительного путешествия часа
два бегал не останавливаясь. Пришлось
даже сделать ночную вылазку на детскую
площадку. Кстати, это хороший вариант
экономного отдыха с детьми. Практиче-
ски каждый день мы посещали такие пло-
щадки. В каждом жилом районе есть одна
большая детская открытая площадка и не-
сколько маленьких. Есть все необходимое:
песочница, качели, горки, лабиринты а не-
подалеку — поле для мини-футбола.
Стоит особо отметить бесплатную от-
крытую площадку «Энгри Бёрдс» в центре
города. Она понравилась не только сыну,
но и родителям. Здесь есть разные качели,
66 ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018
горки, туннели, трехэтажный лабиринт,
футбольное поле, уличные тренажеры и
другогой реквизит Злых птичек. В-общем
— приводите детей сюда!
У нас была возможность оставить на-
шего ненаглядного под присмотром род-
ственников на детской площадке, а самим
насладиться пейзажами города. Жене мы
взяли велосипед, а сам я надел роликовые
коньки племянника. Мы преодолевали де-
сятки километров в день, изучая город и
окрестности. Ребята – это кайф! Ровнень-
кий асфальт под ногами, уютный летний
город вокруг — душа отдыхает!
В один из дней мы сделали вылазку в Де-
ревню Санта Клауса, повидать Йоулупукки.
Расходы здесь согласно бюджету и жела-
нию. В офис Йоулупукки можно заходить
и беседовать с ним бесплатно, но самим
фотографировать нельзя. Каждого посети-
теля здесь фотографирует эльф. Покупать
фотографии никто не заставляет, но очень
хочется. Купили и мы, несмотря на кусачую
цену. Однако, почти год спустя, смотрим
на фото и думаем: правильно сделали!
После Санта Клауса зашли на почту и
кинули пару открыток в красный ящик —
родные удивятся, когда получат сюрприз
к Новому году. Затем племянник затащил
нас в лапландский чум, где готовят семгу
на костре. Цена обеда — 22€, очень вкусно!
После обеда зашли в гости к хаски, правда,
покататься не получилось — слишком жар-
ко для собачек.
Сходили мы и в местный краеведческий
музей, точнее, музеи. Один из музеев сде-
 лан в современном стиле, другой сам по
себе архитектурная достопримечатель-
ность. Прошлись по выставкам — интерес-
но! Затем зашли в соседний научный центр,
где есть тематическая детская площадка,
посвященная финскому лесу. Сыну понра-
вилось играть в поезда, которые он норо-
вил отнять у других детей. Взрослые в это
время зашли в сувенирную лавку и купили
поделки местных умельцев.
Нам повезло, и за две недели нашего от-
пуска было всего два дождливых дня. Мы
их провели в спортивном детском парке
«Хоп-Лоп». Если сказать кратко — это дет-
ский рай. Родителям рекомендуем запа-
стись терпением. Только под закрытие во-
одушевленных и вспотевших детей можно
утащить домой. По соседсву был еще один
парк с трамплинами и батутами, но мы до
него еще не доросли — оставили его на сле-
дующий отпуск. За всю поездку мы посети-
ли «Хоп-Лоп» раза четыре, но сын готов
был ходить сюда хоть каждый день. Любое
чадо найдет здесь себе развлечение, но на-
шим фаворитом стала оранжевая горка.
Год прошел, а сын до сих пор спрашивает,
когда пойдем кататься на оранжевой горке.
Всего в часе езды от Рованиеми под от-
крытым небом находится парк арктиче-
ских животных Рануа, с белыми и бурыми
мишками, волками и росомахами. Понра-
НОВЫЙ ГОСТИНИЧНЫЙ НОМЕР
АПАРТАМЕНТ
Ул. Koskikatu 47, Рованиеми +358 16 342 2051
вилось, что у финнов все хорошо проду-
мано. У входа бесплатно взяли детскую
каляску и возили в ней сына (он внезапно
заладил «я — маленький!»). Увидели не
всех животных, но тех кого смогли уви-
деть, хватило сполна. Примерно посереди-
не маршрута нашли киоск с мороженным и
отоварились по полной. Несмотря на это,
когда вернулись с прогулки, аппетит не
пропал, и поэтому зашли на шведский стол
в местный ресторан.
Две недели пролетели совсем не замет-
но! Уезжать не хотелось, но пора возвра-
щаться домой. Это был наш первый отпуск
на Полярном круге, но надеемся, что не
последний!
ГОСТИНИЦА
«ААКЕНУС»
«Аакенус» — это трехзвездочная
семейная гостиница с демократич-
ными ценами в 200 метрах от центра
Рованиеми. Мы предлагаем уютное
размещение в чистых гостиничных
номерах или комфортных семейных
апартаментах. Гостиничные номера
будут полностью отремонтированы
в течение 2018 года. Обслуживаем и
отвечаем на ваши вопросы по-русски!
Добро пожаловать!
ФАКТЫ ОБ ОТЕЛЕ:
• 45 одно-, двух- и трехместных
номеров, 4 семейных номера
• 15 отдельных апартаментов
с кухней, спальней и ванной
• завтрак-буфет, русское ТВ,
вайфай в номерах, парковка
• ресепшн открыт 24 часа
КУХНЯ В АПАРТАМЕНТЕ
• 50 м до бассейна
ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018 67
hotelli.aakenus@co.inet.fi www.hotelliaakenus.net/ru
 РОВАНИЕМИ | КУЛЬТУРА
«А Р К Т И К У М »
МУЗЕЙ «АРКТИКУМ» предлагает отправиться в увлекатель-
ное путешествие по Арктике. Здесь вы узнаете о быте и на-
родных промыслах коренных народов Заполярья — ненцев,
эскимосов, инуитов и саамов. Изменение климата и среды
обитания губительно влияет на образ жизни и обычаи этих
народностей. Научный центр «Арктикума» занимается ис-
следованиями этих вопросов и делится своими находками
на выставках музея. В «Арктикуме» вы окунетесь в историю
Рованиеми и Лапландии, и даже летом сможете увидеть се-
верное сияние в специальном амфитеатре!
Pohjoisranta 4. www.arktikum.fi
До 31.8.2018: каждый день 9–18.
C 1.9 по 30.11.2018: вторник-воскресенье 10–18.
Е Д И Н Ы Й Б И Л Е Т В Т Р И М УЗ Е Я : В З Р О С Л Ы Й 2 0 € , Д Е ТС К И Й ( 7– 1 5 Л Е Т ) 1 0€ . Д Е Й С Т ВУ Е Т 7 Д Н Е Й .
«ПИЛЬКЕ»
НАУЧНЫЙ ЦЕНТР ПИЛЬКЕ — это большая интерактивная
игровая площадка, которая рассказывает о финской любви
к лесу. Финны с молоком матери узнают, что природу нужно
беречь, не мусорят и любят ходить в лес по грибы да ягоды.
В Пильке дети и взрослые могут вместе поиграть в разные
тематические «лесные» игры: поуправлять машиной для ле-
созаготовок, поохотиться, услышать пение лесных птиц, а
также увидеть все разнообразие материалов, получаемых из
древесины. Научный центр «Пильке» находится по сосед-
ству с «Арктикумом».
Ounasjoentie 6. www.tiedekeskus-pilke.fi
До 31.8.2018: Будни 9–18. Выходные 10–18.
C 1.9 по 30.11.2018: Вт–Пт 9-18. Сб-Вс 10–18. Пн: закрыто.
« КО РУ Н Д И »
МУЗЕЙ СОВРЕМЕННОГО ИСКУССТВА КОРУНДИ — это ча-
стичка истории города, ведь здание музея постройки 1933
года является одним из немногих, переживших войну. В
музее собрано более 3000 произведений финского искус-
ства последних десятилетий, которые приоткрывают завесу
финской души. Летом 2018 года в музее будет представлена
коллекция картин «Снежная страна». Она включает в себя
работы лучших финских художников, которые черпали
вдохновение в красоте финской зимней природы.
Lapinkävijäntie 4. www.korundi.fi
Вторник-воскресенье: 11–18. По четвергам до 20.
ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018 69
 РОВАНИЕМИ | КУХНЯ

«НИЛИ»
ЕСЛИ ВЫ ХОТИТЕ попробовать настоящей лапландской кухни, тогда
вам в ресторан «Нили»! За годы своего существования ресторан стал
настоящей достопримечательностью города. Это и не удивительно,
ведь где еще вы можете попробовать лапландских деликатесов и дичи!
Основу местной кухни составляет оленина. Ее можно приготовить
разными способами, от стейка нежной прожарки и строганины до ту-
шеной шейки, которая проводит в духовке всю ночь. Попробуйте, на-
пример, классическое блюдо из оленины — оленью поджарку с пюре
и брусничным вареньем. Рыба из чистых лапландских озер — тоже
отличный деликатес! А если хотите отведать экзотики, тогда берите
медвежатину. Удовольствие не дешевое, но пикантный и насыщенный
вкус медвежатины окупит себя сполна, да и будет о чем рассказать
друзьям. На десерт стоит полакомиться традиционным лапландским
сыром с морошковым вареньем.
Valtakatu 20, Рованиеми. +358 400 369 669.
Вт-Сб с 17 до 23. Вс–Пн – закрыто, restaurant@nili.fi, www.nili.fi.
«Х И М О »
HIMO переводится с финского как «страсть» или
«желание». Здесь очень неравнодушно относят-
ся к азиатской кухне, особенно японской, китай-
ской и тайской. Конек ресторана — это, конечно
же, суши. Кроме знакомых роллов «Калифор-
ния» есть и настоящая экзотика — суши с олени-
ной и соусом чили! Где еще можно попробовать
такое, кроме как в Лапландии?
Рекомендуем отведать японского супа рамэн,
китайских закусок димсам, или же вкусного вока
— их можно заказать со свининой, курицей, го-
вядиной, грибами, но также и с олениной и даже
медвежатиной! Отличный выбор — это гамбур-
гер с олениной и лапшой. Пальчики оближешь!
Valtakatu 23, Рованиеми. +358 40 508 82 82.
Вт–Пт 16–22, Сб 12–22. Вс–Пн – закрыто.

« Ю К А»

К АФ Е- БА Р « 21 »
CAFE-BAR 21 находится в шаге от центральной площа-
ди. Кафе знаменито своими жареными вафлями, которые
можно заказать как с мясной начинкой, так и с ягодами и
фруктами, получив в итоге отличный десерт! Также в меню
очень вкусный лососевый супчик, свежие салаты, паста и
запеченый картофель с начинкой по вашему выбору. По
будням в стоимость обеда входит чашка кофе или чая.
Вечерами «Кафе-бар «21» — это стильное место для по-
сиделок. Здесь очень хороший выбор изысканных вин, ко-
торые можно заказать по бокалам. Отдельного упоминания
заслуживают коктейли, которые, пожалуй, лучшие в городе.
В качестве закуски к ним можно взять испанский тапас или
ассорти лапландских деликатесов.
Сладкоежек ждет мороженое домашнего приготовле-
ния, коктейли и выпечка. Тут вкусно и уютно!
Rovakatu 21, Рованиеми. www.cafebar21.fi
Пн-Вт 11–21, Ср-Чт 11-22, Пт 11-02, Сб 12-02, Вс 12-21.
YUCA — это, по-видимому, самый яркий из новых ресто-
ранов в Рованиеми. Он предлагает настоящую домашнюю
мексиканскую кухню. Главная фишка ресторана — это та-
кос и тостадас, лепешки из кукурзной муки, которые здесь
делают вручную. Начинку для них, говядину, курицу, ло-
сось, грибы, готовят в духовке на настоящих углях, что га-
рантирует вкус «с дымком». Цены демократичные.
Кроме такос рекомендуем попробовать блюдо под на-
званием El bife de Yuca — фермерский жареный стейк. Или
же Lucioperca — судак от лапландских рыбаков с авокадо и
соусом сальса. На десерт стоит взять традиционные жаре-
ные пончики чуррос, которые подают с шоколадным соу-
сом и сгущенкой. Кайф!
По будням с 11 до 14 в «Юка» можно вкусно и недорого
пообедать. В меню бурритос, супы и тушеное мясо с рисом.
Rovakatu 21, Рованиеми. +358 40 099 87 54.
Пн-Чт 11–21, Пт–Сб 11-23, Вс: закрыто. www.yuca.fi

70 ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

 РОВАНИЕМИ | КУХНЯ
« Ф РА Н С И Ш Е Р И »
FRANS & CHÉRIE — это уютный французский ресторан в цен-
тре Рованиеми. В меню ресторана разнообразные французские
закуски, сыры и колбасы, улитки, вкусные стейки, марсельская
уха, цеплынок и даже жареный осьминог! По пятницам в ресто-
ране подают мидии, а по будням — бизнес-ланч по цене 12€.
«Франс и Шери» предлагает особое лапландское меню со все-
ми деликатесами местной кухни. Её главная изюминка — это
оленина, которую можно попробовать в разных исполнениях.
Возьмите жареное филе олененка в соусе из красного вина!
Koskikatu 4, Рованиеми. +358 444 050 216.
Пн–Пт 11–23, Сб 12-23, Вс 12–22.
«РОССО»
ЛЮБИТЕ ПИЦЦУ? Заходите в ресторан «Россо»! Здесь вы мо-
жете пропробовать как классическую пиццу, так и артизанскую
«римскую» пиццу. Она имеет прямоугольную форму и хрустя-
щую корочку! Стоит попробовать, например, пиццу с итальян-
ской ветчиной и козьим сыром. В меню ресторана есть разные
итальянские закуски, паста, ризотто и стейки. На десерт стоит
взять панакотту с ягодами. В стоимость всех главных блюд «Рос-
со» входит шведский стол с закусками. Летом вы можете пере-
кусить и выпить пару напитков на террасе «Россо». Ресторан
находится прямо в центре города, на площади «Лорди».
Maakuntakatu 30, Рованиеми. Пн–Сб 11–22, Вс 12–22.
ПАБ «УЙТТО» — это отличная пивная в центре Рованиеми! На
ваш выбор много сортов европейского пива, но есть и пиво
местного изготовления. Рекомендуем продукцию пивоварен-
ного завода Рованиеми «Lapin Panimo», например, нежный эль
и лагер! Еще вариант — это бархатный «арктический стаут» от
другого лапландского производителя «Tornio Brewery». В «Уйт-
то» вы можете посмотреть спортивные состязания на большом
экране, поиграть в дартс или в настольные игры — будет весело!
Korkalonkatu 25. Каждый день c 17 до 02.
«А М А Р И Л Л О »
AMARILLO — это ресторан техасско-мексиканской
кухни. Хотите вкусно и сытно покушать? Тогда вам
сюда! На закуску вам предложат фахитас, начос и
такос. В качестве главных блюд — вкусные стейки,
блюда из курицы и свиные ребрышки. В «Амарилло»
знают толк в классных бургерах! Отборные мясные
котлеты, сыр чеддар, майонез и картофель по-дере-
венски — вкуснятина! На десерт — шоколадный торт
и мороженое. Для детей есть специальное меню.
Koskikatu 4, Рованиеми. +358 444 050 213
Пн–Чт 11–23, Пт 11–02, Сб 12–02, Вс 12–23.
« КО Ф Е Х АУС »
COFFEE HOUSE — это уютное и современное кафе в
центре Рованиеми. Здесь вас ждет вкусный и аромат-
ный капучино, латте, эспрессо, и много вариантов
заварного чая, в том числе сенча и ройбуш! В меню
также разная свежая выпечка, тортики, бутербоды,
салаты и смузи. По будням кафе работает с восьми
утра, чтобы порадовать жаворонков чашечкой аро-
матного кофе и вкусным завтраком! Днем сюда мож-
но заскочить на быстрый обед, а вечером на бокал
игристого вина. Maakuntakatu 30, Рованиеми.
Пн–Пт 8–21, Сб 10–21, Вс 12–20.
«У Й Т ТО »
ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018 71
РЕКЛАМА
МАГИЯ ШАМАНСКОГО БУБНА
СААМЫ, коренные жители Фенноскан-
дии, жили в тесной связи с природой
и поклонялись духам стихий. Нойды,
или саамские шаманы, являлись цели-
телями и предсказателями, а шаман-
ский бубен из оленьей кожи был не-
отъемлемым элементом их магических
церемоний.
Ударяя в бубен молотком из оле-
ньей кости, они призывали на помощь
духов, и впадали в состояние транса.
На бубны наносили символы планет,
саамских богов и разных животных,
игравших важную роль в жизни саа-
мов. Верхняя часть бубна представляла
небо, средняя – Землю и мир живых, а
нижняя – Царство мёртвых. С помо-
щью этих символов саамы давали со-
веты людям, а также просили удачи в
охоте, оленеводстве и рыболовстве.
Шаманский символизм оказал боль-
шое влияние на развитие рукоделия
Кузнец Янне Марттиини основал фабри-
ку по производсту ножей в Рованиеми
в 1928 году. В этом году фабрике испол-
няется 90 лет! «Марттиини» производит
традиционные лапландские и финские
ножи, современные рыболовные и охот-
ничьи ножи, а также коллекционные
модели с бронзовыми навершиями, оле-
ньим рогом и дамасской сталью. Посети-
те фирменные магазины «Марттиини» в
Рованиеми или онлайн-магазин:
www.marttiini.com.
«СТАРАЯ ФАБРИКА» ТЦ «РИНТЕЕНКУЛМА»
72 ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018
Пн–Пт 10–18, Сб 10–16 Пн–Пт 10–18, Сб 10–17
и искусства региона. Так, шаманский
бубен стал основой целой серии укра-
шений мастерской «Тайгакору» из
Рованиеми. Ксати, ее название
означает «таежное украше-
ние», ведь вдохновением
для мастеров является еще
и лапландская природа.
Серия украшений «Ша-
манский бубен» олицетво-
ряет богов плодородия, гро-
ма, ветра, охоты, луны и солнце.
Также в ней есть символы животных
и рыб: оленя, волка, медведя, бобра и
форели. Эти украшения выполнены в
оригинальной саамской стилистике и
отлиты как из золота 585-й пробы, так
и из серебра 925-й пробы.
Мастерская изготовляет еше и тра-
диционные саамские броши «Риску»,
которые являются одним из основных
элементов национального наряда саа-
ДЕРЕВНЯ САНТА КЛАУСА
Каждый день 10–17
мов. Их круглая форма и позолоченные
подвески символизируют ход солнца.
Еще один пример влияния саамской
культуры — это серебряные обе-
реги «Комсио», которые под-
вешивали над детской люль-
кой. Саамы верили, что их
легкое позвякивание защи-
щает детей от злых духов.
Мастерская «Тайгакору»
также известна своими пер-
стнями, которые делаются с ис-
пользованием золотых самородков,
найденных на саамской реке Лемменй-
оки в северной Лапландии.
Изделия «Тайгакору» можно купить
в фирменных магазинах в Рованиеми
или заказать через интернет-магазин:
ТЦ «Ринтеенкулма», Koskikatu 25.
Магазин «Swarowski» в Деревне Сан-
та Клауса (рядом с офисом Санты).
www.taigakoru.eu
НОЖ ИЗ ДАМАССКОЙ СТАЛИ
НОЖ «МЕДВЕДЬ»
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РОДЖЕСТВЕНСКАЯ ВЫСТАВКА Р Е С ТО РА Н « Т Р И ЭЛ Ь ФА» ЛАПЛАНДСКИЙ РЕСТОРАН

7 8 9
Н ОЖ И « М А Р Т Т И И Н И » П У Н К Т ТА КС- Ф Р И У К РА Ш Е Н И Я « ТА Й ГА КО РУ»

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018 73

 中文，
一往而情深
——传播中国文化的芬兰人

由于工作原因正式采访马迪·诺约宁教授（Matti
Nojonen）之前，初见到的不是他这个人，而是他的
文字作品。2017 年春天，“永膺福庆——清代宫廷
的辉煌”大型展览在芬兰中南部城市坦佩雷拉开帷幕。
在以中国红为主色调的纪念品商店中，除了那些充满
中国元素的灯笼、龙纹、木雕等，最显眼的大概就是
那几本由马迪教授翻译的芬兰语著作了。他不仅把《孙
子兵法》翻译成芬兰文，还翻译了另一本中国古典兵
法上的奇书《诡道》。

74 ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

 “一个芬兰人怎么能将中国古代的文言文理解的如此
透彻？”着实让我惊奇不已。
走进马迪教授的办公室，并没有想象中的充斥着各种
中国符号。陈列着各类书籍的书柜占据一隅，其上间或摆
着一两本关于中国兵法的书，墙上的白板上写着一些中文
翻译的思考过程，一方工作台上各种阅读资料成摞堆放着
…… 当我敲响他的办公室门的时候，安然坐在办公室中
阅读资料的马迪教授似乎才刚刚意识到采访时间的来临。
看到这些，我又觉得一个芬兰学者的办公室如此干净朴素，
似乎又是一件情理之中的事。

漫长的中文学习之旅
为何对中国文化感兴趣？马迪教授在高中时期就接触
到了日本文化，诸如柔道等，这形成了他最初对于东亚文
化的认知。然而，真正让他对中国开始产生兴趣的是青少
年时期读过的一本英文版的《孙子兵法》。书中有关中国
兵法的论述深深吸引了他，尤其是那种充满哲学意味的语
言令他印象深刻。为了更好地理解中国兵法，马迪便开始
了他漫长的中文学习之旅。上世纪 90 年代初，马迪去往
中国留学，他抵达的第一个中国城市便是广州。一年后， 《孙膑兵法》、
他又先后在台湾地区和瑞典学习中文。
初初看到《孙子兵法》的时候，马迪就折服于中国兵
法的意蕴，这更加成为他急迫的学习中文、接触文言文原
版的强大动力。在斯德哥尔摩大学的中文系，他第一次阅
读到文言文，便觉得它“太难了！”我很难想象仅仅凭借
着对于中国兵法的热忱就能够让他坚持着学习文言文，以
致于现在能够理解数十本中国古代兵法著作，这对于身为
中国人的我来说都像是不可能完成的任务一般！
为了心中的兵法情缘，马迪从未中断过中文的学习。 类活用现象。在古汉语中，某些词在特定的语言环境中可
1995 年至 2000 年间，他先后到访过青岛、北京、上海、
广州等地。2010 年至 2014 年间，每年他都在中国工作
半年左右的时间。繁忙的工作和学习让他没有太多时间在
中国旅游，但是这些年却是他如饥似渴地吸收中文知识、
了解中国文化的宝贵阶段。
充满哲学思辨的中国兵法
在学习一门语言的过程中，学而不用必定会事倍功半。
2002 年开始，马迪开始学习翻译中国古文，第一本文言
文翻译作品自然是他最爱的《孙子兵法》。语言翻译工作
通常都是比较枯燥无趣的，所幸一路上马迪还有共同学习
摄于马迪教授办公室
进步的芬兰朋友。两个人互相学习、彼此纠错，终于马迪
翻译的芬兰语版《孙子兵法》在 2005 年由赫尔辛基大学
出版社出版。2007 年，他又分析翻译了 56 部有关中国
兵法战略的书籍。其中包括古代的《孙子兵法》、
《韩非子》、
《文子》、
《管子》、
《吕氏春秋》、
《战国策》等等，
另外还有近现代的毛泽东、曾中生等大家的战术战略思想。
中国古代兵法是中国古代用兵作战的方法、策略的总
称，也指中国古代兵家军事著作的统称，是中国古典军事
文化的重要成果，也是中国优秀文化传统的重要组成部分。
对于普通的中国人来说，中国古代的兵法书或许只是兵法、
兵略、训练、阵法、兵器等的集锦。然而马迪却说，他喜
欢中国兵法是因为其中蕴含的哲学味道，这些“集锦”反
映出的是中国古人的智慧和世界观。譬如，文言文中的词
以灵活运用，临时改变它的基本功能，在句中充当其他类
词（名词作动词用）。这种在古汉语中出现的重要语法特
点之一，让这位芬兰学者惊叹不已。他说，这种“概念”
的差异不仅存在于古今汉语之间，更是存在于东西方文化
当中。
很多文言文涉及中国传统文化和哲学思想，相关知识
不足也会影响对文章深意的理解。对于像马迪这样的汉学
家来说，学习文言文的阅读方法和语境固然重要，但是能
够深入了解文章的思想感情和文化内涵更显得技高一筹，
特别是古人往往喜欢将文章的深意隐藏，如果观者对作品

摄于拉普兰大学的中文课课堂

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018 75

 近年来访拉普兰的中国游客愈加增多，从事旅游和商业的当地人意识到学习中文的必要性

的背景缺乏足够的了解，便很难理解作品背后的深意。 这些外国学生学习中文的呢？原因主要集中在两点 ：对中

中国古代战争的现实性启发了人们理性地去认识敌我双方
和自然之道，这其中当然不仅仅表现在语言表达上，还有
认识“己与彼”、“天与地”的辩证思维和天人观念。或许
正是因为孙子是第一个把认识自己与认识他人、认识人道
与认识天道放在重要地位的人，才让无数人对中国古代兵
法着迷不已吧。从这个意义上来讲，他对于战争的分析为
后人认识整个世界做了最初的准备，为中国哲学作出了重
要贡献。
现在的拉普兰大学有 5 门关于中国文化方面的课程，
包括中国政治、中国经济、中国社会与媒体、中国法律体
系、中文等。部分课程的报名学生达到 50 人之众，这个
数字对于一个体量不大的芬兰大学来说已经比较多了。然
而，马迪教授仍然认为芬兰学生对中国文化的了解太少了。
我走进了拉普兰大学中文课的课堂，采访了来自芬兰、
俄罗斯、美国、越南等国的在座学生。这些学生已经上了
四个阶段的中文课了，执教的中文老师说中文语境的欠缺
让他们的中文学习显得格外困难。那么又是什么原因促使
国文化的兴趣和（旅游或商务）工作的需要。随着拉普兰
省旅游业的发展，越来越多的中国游客来到罗瓦涅米。服
务于旅游业的芬兰小伙表示学习中文有利于工作交流 ；在
Alko 芬兰国营酒类专卖店打工的芬兰学生非常自豪地告
诉我说，他能够分辨出一对中国夫妇的中文口音，并判断
出他们是来自北京的 ；正在学习法律的芬兰学生则希望通
过学习中文了解中国文化，为未来的职业道路打下基础。
这些学生对于中国文化的认知基本上集中在中文和中国美
食之上。
未来，拉普兰大学将会有越来越多的学生对中国、中
国文化感兴趣。 在拉普兰建立孔子学院将有利于积极推
广中国文化，这一重要举措也将部分弥补中文语言环境的
缺失，受惠于学习中文的外国学生和芬兰当地人 。马迪
教授希望，未来拉普兰大学的孔子学院会是一个交流中国
文化的平台——这个没有“墙”、透明度大的孔子学院能
够为拉普兰的老百姓介绍更多的中国文化，让他们有机会
喜爱中国传统文化、了解中国当今社会。

It’s L i g h t .
这里的夏天，极昼之阳永不落。
墨镜是外出必不可少的哦！
76 ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018
在北极圈体验非同凡响的高等教育。入学申请请至 W W W.STU DYINLAPLAND.FI
 在拉普兰应用科技大学，学生有机会学习使用 3D 虚拟现实的科技

在北极圈学商的体验
拉普兰应用科技大学是欧盟地理 平台却在一定程度上解决了这种沟通
位置最北的大学，提供四个国际学位 障碍。和中国填鸭式的教学方式不同，
的本科课程，包括商业经济学、国际 芬兰的教学更注重实践性，团队合作
商务、旅游学和护理。除此之外，大 和创新思维是大学最专注培养的两项
学还提供商业管理的硕士学位课程。 能力。譬如，在拉普兰应用科技大学，
从 2017 年秋季开始，芬兰开始全面 学校会帮助有创新想法的学生搭建学
征收非欧盟国际学生的学费，这直接 生创业平台，联系对口的企业，使想
导致报考拉普兰应用科技大学的中国 法转化为生产力。这种做法不同于一
学生数量锐减。即使提供不菲的奖学 味地强调书本知识的理论，而是更多
金，地处北极圈的大学仍然面临如此 地“让梦想照进现实”，不少学生因
窘境。然而，却有人弃医从商，来到 此美梦成真。在师生关系中，芬兰的
拉普兰学习国际金融，冀望在这片土 老师更像是学生的朋友，而非身居高
地上开创出自己的一番事业。 位的老夫子。在中国读书的时候，狄
狄力来自于新疆的乌鲁木齐。曾 力时常觉得老师一下课就走人了 ；但
经在新疆医科大学学医的他，性格爽 是在拉普兰应用科技大学，课堂后的
朗、健谈，比起手术刀更喜爱的是语 老师经常和学生们聊天说笑，师生之
言的艺术。24 岁时抱着出门闯一番 间的沟通方便而轻松。正是学校这种
的想法，狄力来到了遥远的北国芬兰。 开放的态度和友好的氛围，让外国学 是，狄力在与各种各样不同行业的人
仅仅用了一年多的时间，他就克服了 生能够更自在地在这里学习和生活。 打交道的过程中感受到了乐趣，并从
芬兰语这一大难关，学习着融入芬兰 在芬兰的头两年，狄力尝试过不 中发现了未来值得发掘的职业道路。
社会。然而，即使是健谈的狄力，想 同的工作，这不仅锻炼了他的语言能 得益于拉普兰绚丽变幻的北极光和纯
要完全融入芬兰生活、与芬兰人建立 力，也让他感受到了不一样的生活。 净的自然环境，狄力发现来罗瓦涅米
起友谊也并不是件容易的事情。事实 或许有人不懂他为何要弃医从商，但 的中国人越来越多、中芬间的文化沟
上，他将之称为“破墙”。芬兰人的 是狄力告诉我说， “年轻就要拼搏”。 通也愈加普遍。不管是旅游还是商业，
社交方式与中国人完全不同，他们的 人 的 一 辈 子 需 要 有 不 同 的 体 验 和 经 拉普兰的发展潜力都无限大。在大学

。 工作方式也让外国人一时难以适应。 历，需要从不同的生活中感悟人生的
这对任何人来说都是一种文化上的冲 各种况味，不同职业中的“试错”也
学习国际金融的同时，他也在寻找各
种创业的机会，希望在未来、在北极
击。然而，学校为学生们提供的交流 让人生变得愈加丰富多彩。最重要的 圈上开拓出属于自己的商业版图。

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018 77

 拉普兰有什
么好玩的？
夏天的拉普兰有白夜现象，太阳终日盘桓于天穹。
拉普兰拥有质朴与天然的原始风光，形形色色的
纯正自然让人心旷神怡。因此，夏天的拉普兰也
是 生 机 勃 勃， 有 许 多 丰 富 有 趣 的 户 外 活 动。 譬
如，8 月在比哈滑雪度假村举办的 NUTS 越野赛、
2018 坦卡瓦拉黄金村淘金芬兰冠军赛、拉努阿的
云莓庆典等等。在 6 月 18 日至 24 日间的那个星
期六更是芬兰最重要的节庆之一——仲夏节，芬
兰全国都沉浸在多彩缤纷的节日氛围之中，从仲
夏节的篝火仪式到重金属摇滚，从烧烤聚餐到唱
歌跳舞，如此种种，令人难忘～

拉努阿野生动物园位于拉普兰省首府罗瓦涅米以南 80
公里处，约一小时车程。拉努阿是一个体验荒野北极的
好地方。在北方的原始森林中，游客不仅有机会看到北
极熊和去年夏天刚刚降生的小北极熊，还能近距离接触
50 多种典型的极地动物，包括棕熊、猞猁、雪狼、北极狐、
狼獾、驼鹿等等。野生动物园模拟了极地动物们各自独
特的生活环境，穿梭于动物们的生活辖区，游客们能够
深入探索极地原生态的风貌。除了展示各种北极动物之
外，拉努阿野生动物园还提供宾馆住宿、野营、餐饮和
各种户外活动的服务。另外，如果您前往野生动物园的

拉努阿野生动物园 话，千万不要错过近在咫尺的 Fazer 巧克力工厂店哦 ~。

拉努阿野生动物园距离罗瓦涅米以南
约80公里处，约一小时车程。动物
园饲养了50多种典型的极地动物，
包括棕熊、北极熊、猞猁、雪狼、狼
獾、驼鹿等。动物园模拟了动物们各

拉努阿野生动物园 自独特的生活环境，游客参观路线长
约2.8公里，穿越了各种动物的生活
雪鸮
辖区。野生动物园全年开放，展现了
麋鹿 猞猁 棕熊 一幅北极动物最真实、最自然的生活
状态缩略图。动物园全年开放，6月
1日至8月31日9:00-19:00，9月1
us

Bu c
bo scandia 日至5月31日10:00-16:00。
es
78 c alc | SUMMER 2018
AlLAPLAND
ALL ABOUT o
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www.ranuazoo.com
 比哈圣洛斯托
圣诞老人 国家公园
地球人都知道，那个真正且唯一的圣诞老人就住在芬 冬天，距离罗瓦涅米 130 公里的比哈圣洛斯托国家公园是芬
兰。但是，你可能不知道，其实天天都可以去拜访他。 兰最酷炫的滑雪度假村之一。夏天，这个远离城市喧嚣和人
勤勉的圣诞老人和他的小精灵们一年 365 天都工作 群的国家森林公园却蕴含了一份出世的宁静，成为户外活动
着，恭候大家的光临！他的办公室就位于拉普兰省的 的理想去处。无论是寻找静谧的处所还是刺激的活动，来到
省会罗瓦涅米市。耳朵山那遥远的荒郊野外也许不是 这里都将不虚此行。游人们可以在这个森林公园找到适宜自
经营全球礼物递送服务的理想地点，但对于圣诞老人 己的活动，不管是远足、骑山地自行车、钓鱼、划独木舟、
来说，大自然的美景远比物流运输更为重要，更何况 险滩漂流，还是野外定向或采摘浆果蘑菇等活动都是极好的。
他还在北极圈上设立了邮局。圣诞老人邮局每年都会 比哈圣洛斯托是芬兰最大的国家公园，公园大面积的自然保
收到世界各地寄来的 50 多万封信件。圣诞老人虽然 护区确保了生物的多样性。不过即使如此，游人还是可以享
每年只能去孩子们的家里探访一次兼送礼物，但是他 受生长在森林中的、属于大自然的各种新鲜美味，因为这是
非常欢迎来自八方的游客去他家和他见面。来到罗瓦 每个人都有的权利。喜爱徒步和自然的你，也能够轻松找到
涅米的你可千万别错过这个面基的好机会哦！ 国家公园中的瀑布，听说它还是个热门景点哦 ~

洛斯托紫水晶矿场 坦卡瓦拉黄金博物馆
洛斯托紫水晶矿场位于罗瓦涅米近郊，是全欧洲唯一 位于拉普兰省北部索丹屈莱的坦卡瓦拉黄金博物馆，是世界
开放给大众挖水晶原石的地方。紫水晶有安神、助眠 上唯一一家展示了黄金开采和勘探前世今生的博物馆。芬兰
以及增强精力的效用。达芬奇就总在他的书桌上放置 人的黄金勘探史将近 150 年，黄金博物馆不仅揭开当地黄金
一枚紫水晶，对此他在日记中解释说，“紫水晶能够 勘探者的小秘密，也同时展示了世界上超过 20 个国家的黄金
驱逐邪念并且加速思考”。洛斯托紫水晶矿位于洛斯 开采历史。你知道每到夏天这里就会举办国际淘金锦标赛吗？
托国家公园内，距罗瓦涅米约 120 公里。这里以前 你知道一旦发现了黄金或宝石的话就可以直接将它们带回家
是拉普兰原住民萨米族的地盘，他们在此驯养驯鹿， 吗？ 1930 年，一块重达 390.9 克的最大的金块在伊瓦洛河
开采水晶——这是大山孕育了 2000 万年的精魂。山 中被发现；2008 年，一名淘金人发现了一块重 113 克的金块。
顶的宝石矿已经开设了数百年，给普通人可以亲手挖 而最令人兴奋的是拉普兰的黄金纯度高达 95%，因此它在全
出紫水晶原石的机会，挖到的紫水晶可以带走留作纪 球黄金市场上的价格始终略高于金价平均值。多一点点耐心，
念。拉普兰人热情待客，主人还会提供当地出产的新 多一点点幸运，再加上正确的引导，即使是门外汉也能找到
鲜蓝莓汁，为游客们讲述关于紫水晶的传说和知识。 一些金粉，甚至是一个小金块。

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018 79

 无比灿烂的
拉普兰
夏天
对芬兰人来说，冬天固然是有声有色的，然而夏天却是 日本电影《海鸥食堂》中展现的那种古典的城市景象、
实实在在的整天都洒满阳光的日子。经历了漫长的冬季，芬 和善的人群、湖泊与森林的自然风光，为我们描绘了一种
兰人极为享受夏季悠长、温暖、闲闲躺着无事可干的日子， 简单、乐活的生活元素，深深吸引着人们前往芬兰旅行。
不管是码头边、湖泊上还是海岸边都能看到人们享受阳光、 6 月至 8 月来到芬兰的拉普兰，永不落的太阳划破长空，
拥抱自然的身影。美妙的夏季好像邀请着每个人尽情享受这 总觉得一天超过二十四小时。芬兰人说，一到夏天，就要
无比美好的户外生活，到处举办的音乐节、舞蹈节在芬兰全 玩个通宵达旦，喝到不省人事为止。更何况拉普兰的自然
国各个角落生气勃勃地铺开。“白夜”的芬兰，每个人都舍 环境优越，为人们的“探险”活动提供了大型场地，不管
不得早早去睡觉，充分利用夏季享受自然才是芬兰人夏天的 是河流湖泊还是森林山岭都适合人们撒欢地玩耍。所以，
主旋律！ 趁着夏意正浓，抓紧机会享受拉普兰的夏天吧！

80 ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

 白夜中的垂钓胜地 兰的小木屋中度假。对于拉普兰人来说，夏天就是户外活
拉普兰四季分明，色彩各异。夏季，这里的太阳终日 动、烧烤美食的代名词。 如果你住在拉普兰的林间小屋，
盘桓于天穹，白夜现象让人们恨不得 24 小时当成 48 小 或许从窗户望出去便时常能够看到松鼠在林间嬉戏，运气
时用。然而在仲冬时节，太阳却不轻易露面。秋季里，拉 好的话还能看到拉普兰的常住居民之一驯鹿呢！住在林间
普兰的森林处处呈现五彩斑斓的景象。深冬，漫天的飞雪 木屋的另一大好处是靠近森林，闲时便能够骑上自行车环
则营造出了一个明亮夺目的银色世界。这一切无不吸引着 山驰骋，沿着蜿蜒山路远足到湖畔，采摘遍地生长着的属
远足者和垂钓者纷至沓来。 于大自然的馈赠。鼻息中泥土的湿味和原野上自然的清香，
拉普兰有形形色色的纯天然水域，这里是钓鱼爱好者 诉说着拉普兰最原始而真实的味道。
的绝佳去处。只有在北部芬兰，你才可以找到芬兰最理想 在森林中尽情玩耍过后，自然是要用美食好生犒劳自
的鲑鱼和河鳟垂钓点。北极红点鲑是拉普兰的一大特色。 己一番。如果说冬天丰盛的炖锅让我们在寒冷的日子里倍
即使在拉普兰山中一些较小的水域垂钓，也能找到它们的 感温暖，那么夏天的拉普兰人则偏爱清爽、新鲜、易于烹
踪迹。拉普兰也有许多适合白鲑生长的优质水域，它们通 饪的食材。芬兰人夏天也喜欢吃小龙虾，每年七月中旬便
常出没在小湖泊以及河区水流缓慢的大池塘中。这些地方 开始了夏季的小龙虾季。每到这个时候，芬兰人就会三不
同时也是捕捉河鳟的绝佳去处。除此之外，拉普兰也有垂 五时地约上几个亲朋好友到家中共享饕餮。 此外，这场
钓梭子鱼和河鲈的好水域。很多野生湖泊中栖息着大河鲈， 美食盛宴上，拉普兰本地出产的新鲜蔬果是不可或缺的。
有些河鲈的重量达到一公斤多呢 ~ 在很长的历史时期里，芬兰都是游牧民族的家园，捕鱼、
拉普兰拥有质朴与天然的原始风光。这里地广人稀， 狩猎和采摘是当地人生活方式的自然组成部分。这种生活
水源充沛。这里有许多适宜的垂钓点，环境宁静而旷远 ； 方式至今仍然存在，构成了现代芬兰美食文化的真正根基。
在荒野中，可能几天都见不到一个人影。尽管如此，拉普 夏日住进木屋，过着简单的生活，大自然近在咫尺，新鲜、
兰仍然有无数交通便捷的垂钓水域，譬如罗瓦涅米。河边 简单、本地土产的美食唾手可得。届时，拉普兰的美食不
垂钓的夜晚，还可以像芬兰人一样点起一堆篝火，享受静 仅有驼鹿、麋鹿、柳松鸡、甚至是熊或驯鹿，还有沙棘、
静观赏大自然的安宁一刻。 越橘、云莓、蓝莓等野生浆果和牛肝菌、鸡油菌这样的可
顺便一说，外国旅人钓鱼需要申请许可证，不过拟饵 口菌类。至于水产海鲜，从狗鱼到白鱼、北极红点鲑、河鳟，
钓鱼是人人可以自由进行的。放一条长线，赌一把运气。 经过巧手新鲜烹制，配上香葱等野生草药，更是鲜美无比。
野生草药？你没看错，夏季去采集野生草药和可食花卉的
盛夏的聚会美食 芬兰人是越来越多。如果你喜爱自然，想体验拉普兰这种
很多芬兰人在夏季都喜欢去他们湖边、海边或是拉普 天然的生活方式的话，可以从简单的入门，做个荨麻叶汤，

Scandia Rent 租车服务

作为芬兰最大的汽车租赁公司，Scandia Rent在全芬兰有

发现北极之美！
超过50家办公室，为游客提供快捷周到的租车服务。其租
赁车辆包括经济型用车、家庭中等型车、SUV、旅行用车和
小巴。Scandia Rent的汽车干净，车况良好，价格公道。
罗瓦涅米提车点包括机场、火车站或是市中心的办公室。客
服电话24小时畅通！预订网址：www.scandiarent.fi。

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018 81

地址：罗瓦涅米Valtakatu 26。营业时间：周一至周五8:00-17:00，周六周日10:00-14:00。 24小时电话：+358 16 342 0506。
 或是用紫丁香、三色堇、矢车菊等花卉点缀沙拉、烘焙点心。
最后，说到芬兰人的主食，那肯定是土豆。尤其在初夏时
节更是如此。夏令的餐桌上若是没有奉上蒸腾着热气的新
鲜小土豆，那简直是不可想象的。春夏季的新土豆肉嫩皮
薄，维生素含量高，口味鲜美。小心地煮熟后，朝锅里撒
一把清香的莳萝，然后装盘端上，佐以黄油享用。
拉普兰的夏季因短暂而愈加美好，因此每年的这个时
候，人们都喜欢将烹饪工作和餐桌搬到户外。即使在森林
中，你也能看到临时的户外厨房和精巧的烧烤站点。后院
里、木屋后、露台上，人头攒动，亲自烧烤一同享用，乐
此不疲。一起做、一起吃，是享用夏令美食的重要元素。
亲朋好友齐来参与，你来采摘森林中的鲜蔬，我来划船垂
钓捕鱼。随着温暖的夏日黄昏渐渐变成午夜太阳甜蜜的浅
蓝色光晕，先一起烹饪，再一道享用，绝对是美事一桩。

桑拿和水上活动
说桑拿是芬兰文化的重要部分绝对不是夸大其词。人
们都说，如果你想了解芬兰和芬兰人的话，就先从熟悉桑
拿开始。中国人喜欢在饭桌上谈天说地，而芬兰人认为桑
拿是净化身体和心灵的场所。芬兰的桑拿非常之多，同时
容纳全国 540 万人口都没问题。因此，芬兰桑拿的数目
估计在两三百万之间。特别是夏季木屋，基本上都会建有
一个桑拿。美食过后，将桑拿加热，进入桑拿房中，待全
身烘的暖洋洋后在外面跑一圈，大汗淋漓地一猛子扎进湖
水中，那种爽快的感觉你可曾体验过？
除了游泳，桑拿的间隙你还可以围坐在营火边烧烤，
玩草地游戏或是聊天。在木屋的门厅里闲闲地坐着，静看
那不落的太阳，也别有一番悠闲。当然如果你对水上项目
感兴趣的话，还可以在午夜阳光中泛舟河上，享受夏季的
静谧和无所事事。在罗瓦涅米你还可以参加水上摩托的活
动，在河上享受追风的快感。这个适合所有年龄段人群的
活动安全又刺激，深受人们的喜爱。活动开始前教练会给
与必要的指导，所以即使没有驾驶水上摩托经验的人也完
全不用担心 ~

三文鱼刀和带有铜制三文鱼领圈的刀品
大马士革钢

成立于1928年的马拉蒂尼刀具以其精湛
的传统工艺而闻名于世。这个成立于罗
瓦涅米的刀具品牌已经成为许多国家的
收藏家的刀

家庭必需之物。这种适用于北欧刀具包
括经典的芬兰和拉普兰式刻刀、猎刀和
钓鱼器具。锋利的刀锋采用最优质的钢
材，而刀具的手柄材质是铜和驯鹿角。
马拉蒂尼网店 www.marttiini.com.

马拉蒂尼老厂房店：周一至周五 Rinteenkulma购物中心店： 圣诞老人村店：

82 ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018
10-18、周六10-16 周一至周五10-18、周六10-17 每天10:00-17:00
 芬兰旅行你应该知道的
从数字看芬兰
芬 兰 总 人 口数约 540 万，赫尔
辛基大区人口总数约 140 万。芬兰
国 土 总 面 积 338440 平 方 公 里， 每
平方公里 18.1 位居民。芬兰男性的
预期寿命年龄是 78 岁，女性的预期
寿命年龄是 84 岁。芬兰官方语言分
别是芬兰语和瑞典语，88.9% 的芬兰
人口使用芬兰语。芬兰采用议会民主，
一 院 制， 约 200 名 议 员。73.8% 的
芬兰人属于路德教会，约 1.1% 的芬
兰人属于东正教会。每年的 12 月 6
日是芬兰的独立日。
芬兰买酒限制多
超市贩卖的酒类酒精浓度不超过
4.7%，且购买酒类时必须年满 18 岁，
18 岁以上 20 岁以下的年轻人只可购
买酒精含量不超过 22% 的酒、啤酒
及饮料。收营员有权要求查看相关证
件（如护照等）。芬兰的国家酒品公司
ALKO 拥有葡萄酒和烈酒的零售专卖
权。因此，需要购买高度啤酒、葡萄
酒以及烈酒都只能在 ALKO 连锁店。
罗瓦涅米购物中心内的 ALKO 连锁店
营业时间 ：周一至周五 9:00-20:00，
周六 9:00-18:00。
芬兰人的水 芬兰商店营业时间
众所周知，芬兰是千湖之国，万 在芬兰，周一至周五商店通常开
岛之国。据联合国儿童基金会的报告， 到晚上 6 点或 8 点，周六稍早打样，
芬兰的水是全世界最纯净的。纯净水 一般营业至下午 3 点或 6 点。大部分
已进入到了芬兰人日常生活的方方面 商店周日休息，但部分商店会在周日
面。其中最令其他国家艳羡不已的便 从中午营业至晚上 6 点。超市的营业
是可饮用自来水，这是芬兰人每天都 时间久一些，大超市周一至周五营业
能享受到的“特权”之一。 至晚上 9 点，周末至晚上 6 点 ；而小
型超市则基本上每天营业到晚上 11
芬兰驾车TIPS 点。但是，在公共假日，商店和超市
的营业时间会有所调整。
芬兰普遍的车速限制在城里为每
小时 50 公里，而城外则为每小时 80 赫尔辛基的微信小
公里。只要在没有其它标识的情况下，
这两个限速便是既定的限制。不过在 程序
夏季，主要干道的车速限制可达每小
赫尔辛基与世界旅游城市联合
时 100 公里，高速公路上则为每小
会、腾讯公司签订三方合作协议，共
时 120 公里。在冬季，所有车辆都
同打造海外智慧旅游服务试点城市。
要配置冬季轮胎，最好是带有防滑钉
通过腾讯的网络直播、微信公众号、
的。芬兰的冬季道路上很少会铺沙撒
小程序、AR 技术、全景地图、大数
盐，通常依靠扫雪机维持道路状况。
据等功能，中国出境游客能够享受到
冬季的车速限制会改为每小时 80 公
更便利且多样化的服务。赫尔辛基将
里。芬兰法律规定，无论在夏天或冬
通过小程序为用户提供有关城市和服
天，无论是烈日当空或是一片漆黑，
务的重要信息、图片、视频和地图导
都要打开车头灯，即便在午夜阳光下
览，同时未来包括智能翻译、一键退
也是如此。路边停车时需要在自助停
税、一键安全求助等服务功能也在开
车设备处购买停车票，然后放在车辆
发计划之中。除此之外，赫尔辛基也
的挡风玻璃后，方便执勤人员查看。
将尽快启动微信公众号的建设。
ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018 83
 北极博物馆 (Arktikum)

罗瓦涅米文化之旅
纵观芬兰的历史，这个国家也有着 又给这个国家带来怎样的后果，你都可以
上千年的文化了呢！你知道自石器时代开 在博物馆中找到答案。除了历史方面的知
始，拉普兰就已经有人类生活的痕迹了 识，游客也可以近距离地接触本地的特色，
吗？你知道公元前 700 年这里就已经有 譬如驯鹿等动植物和芬兰唯一的少数民
了周期性的农业劳作习惯了吗？你知道这 族——萨米人。驯鹿是鹿类中唯一被驯养
个四分之三面积地处北极圈以内的省份的 的动物，博物馆中的动植物标本区为游客
支柱产业是什么吗？这一系列的问题你都 展示了这种半野生的驯鹿的放养图片、以
能在罗瓦涅米的文化之旅中得到详尽的解 及古来萨米人驯养它们的各种工具和环境
答。其中不可错过的景点便是北极博物馆 状况。最后，在北极博物馆，你也可以学
（Arktikum）和比尔盖科学中心（Pilke）。 习关于北极圈环境的相关知识，譬如怎样
北极博物馆修建于 1992 年，适逢 减缓温室效应、北极光是如何形成的、极
芬兰 75 周年生日之际。伫立于奥那斯河 地动物有哪些等等。
与凯米河的交汇处，博物馆独特的拱形玻 紧邻北极博物馆的是比尔盖科学中心，
璃设计显得格外别致。这个长达 172 米 是芬兰人的森林博物馆。芬兰国土面积的
的玻璃长廊直指北极，做实了博物馆立足 70％以上被森林覆盖，是目前欧洲森林密
比尔盖科学中心 (Pilke)
罗瓦涅米本地文化，同时关注北极生态人 度最高的国家 ；芬兰约 20％的能源产自木
文的宗旨和目标。因此，北极博物馆由两 材，而森林为芬兰可再生能源的生产作出
部分组成，它既是北极中心也是拉普兰地 了 70％的贡献。这些再再说明了森林在
区博物馆。这个处于地下的博物馆就像设 芬兰人的日常生活中起着怎样重要的作用。
计师当初的设想一样，如同北极的植物一 比尔盖科学中心的存在就是为了向人们普
般，常年处于地下被冰雪覆盖。 及关于森林的知识和大自然对我们日常生
在北极博物馆，你可以了解关于罗 活的重要性。比尔盖尝试通过使用各种互
瓦涅米这个城市最详实的历史。罗瓦涅米 动展览品引发游客对于森林知识的兴趣 ；
的城市模型为游客展示的是二战前后的罗 通过各种小游戏，人们可以熟悉北方森林
瓦涅米。这个饱经风霜的城市在二战中将 的使用、产品和生产情况。在科学中心里， 地址 ：
近 90% 的建筑被毁，如今我们看到的城 所有的展品都可以进行触摸和体验，全家 北极博物馆 Pohjoisranta 4
市几乎是从灰烬中重建的。至于芬兰是如 大小都能在科学中心得到有益的知识，是 科隆迪美术馆 Lapinkävijäntie 4
何被卷进二战之中，这场席卷世界的大战 一个适合全家总动员的好地方！ 比尔盖科学中心 Ounasjoentie 6

84 ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

 从被白雪覆盖的田园牧歌到描绘一个现代冬季

欢迎来到冰雪之境
对北部芬兰艺术感兴趣的你一定不 是一切，它是芬兰人的根，是芬兰人的精
能错过科隆迪文化中心（Korundi）。这 神家园。也正因此，芬兰人对自身、对社
个文化中心由旧邮政车站改建而成。其主 会、对历史、对世界有着更为深刻的思考。
要部分是艺术博物馆，每年有各种美术作 从很久之前，冬天就被定义是芬兰
品在这里展出 ；夏季里，演奏厅会举行多 的自然和芬兰人的生活方式。在那些日子
场音乐会，其中最著名的是拉普兰管弦乐 里，冬天常常是可怕的。芬兰人的民族史
团。也因此，科隆迪成为罗瓦涅米艺术文 诗《卡勒瓦拉》（Kalevala）中便为观者
化的心脏。在文化中心的纪念品商店，你 描述了一个寒冷而沉闷的 Pohjola，它指
能够买到来自当地艺术家的手工艺作品， 的就是北方寒冷的国度（极地地区）。如
既有限量版的首饰、拉普兰特色的创意手 果说北部拉普兰的夏天为我们展现的是短
作，还有各种充满童趣的商品。 暂、温暖、明亮，那么拉普兰的的冬季带
这个夏天，科隆迪文化中心将有 40 来的却是漫长、严寒、黑暗。直到 19 世
位艺术家展出他们的画作，欢迎游客们来 纪末，人们才开始看到冬天象征的生存和
到拉普兰这个冰雪之境。大自然对芬兰人 韧性的意义。 寒冷、黑暗、大雪纷飞的
来说意味着什么？冬天对芬兰人意味着什 冬天并不意味着生活就停滞了。对芬兰人
科隆迪文化中心 (Korundi) 么？芬兰三分之二的国土面积被森林覆 来说，生活是值得被期待和享受的，而不
盖，即使在南部大区的城市生活，森林也 仅仅是生存。
近在咫尺。冬季白雪皑皑，一片寂静。夏 在巴黎学习的芬兰艺术家们利用他
日藤蔓枝茂，林间有浆果鲜蘑，有鸟雀鸣 们在巴黎学到的东西进行创作。他们不畏
叫。所以，芬兰人与自然的关系非常紧密。 严寒，在室外描绘芬兰的冬天。他们的作
这从芬兰的文学作品中便可见一斑。曾获 品有时是明媚阳光下闪闪发光的雪景，有
诺贝尔文学奖的西朗佩在《夏夜的人们》 时是人烟罕至的树林深处覆盖着积雪的树
中形容这样的芬兰 ：
“北方的夏天，夜幕 木。作品本身的时间跨度从 19 世纪延伸
迟迟不肯降临，黄昏久久徘徊不去，暮色 到 21 世纪。因此，这个关于冰雪之境的
在流连中渐渐苍老，即便天色渐暗，也给 艺术展挑战着参观者的认知 ：冬天的重要
人难以言喻的明朗之感，仿佛黎明不久将 性是否发生了变化？人类对于冬天的观感
展 览 开 幕 时 间 为 2018 年 6 月
至。迟暮就像一曲舒缓的旋律，悠扬的音 是否依旧？游客如何体验寒冷的自然并享
14 日（周四）18 点，展出时间
符在紫罗兰色的晚霞中愈发轻柔，直至划 受芬兰冬季的异国情调？这个夏季欢迎来
为 6 月 15 日至 10 月 21 日。
上短暂的休止符。”大自然对芬兰人来说 到科隆迪探索冰雪之境的意义。

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018 85

 罗瓦涅米是芬兰北部拉普
兰省的省会，也是世界上唯一
设在北极圈上的省会，林木
青葱，秀丽宁静。对于芬兰人
来说，这里是冬天滑雪季的美
丽度假地 ；这里的夏天也是避
暑纳凉、远离城市喧嚣的绝好
目的地。这个世界著名的小镇
或许只是你芬兰之旅当中一个
小小的驻留地，你或许只有一
天的时间感受拉普兰的风土人
情，圣诞老人或许是唯一吸引
你而来的那个人。于是，不少
游客会问，罗瓦涅米除了最吸
引人的官方身份——被联合国
认可的圣诞老人的故乡，夏天
还有些什么好玩的呢？今天就

倏忽一夏
让我们跟随真正的芬兰人，来
一个地道的罗瓦涅米游，体验
这个北极小镇里的倏忽一夏。

@ 罗瓦涅米
8:00 am 沐浴在阳光中的早晨
拉开厚厚的遮光窗帘，拉普兰夏季的晨光立刻就满溢
了进来。夏天的时候住在拉普兰传统的红色小木屋中，才
是体验拉普兰风情的最佳选择。对于许多芬兰人来说，打
造一间属于自己的小木屋是一个从小到大的梦想。芬兰人
对于美好的生活、雅致的情调的期许从他们的湖边小木屋
就可以传达出来。有一句俗语道出了芬兰人对于生活的渴
望——红色小屋与马铃薯田。只要有一间自己的小屋，和
一片可以种马铃薯的田地，生活家园就有了轮廓。芬兰人
对于简单纯朴生活的念想可见一斑。或许这也就是我们在
夏季选择入住圣诞老人村旁的木屋酒店的原因。这里不仅
距离世界著名的圣诞老人咫尺之遥，住在这里还能够坐拥
屋后的一大片原始森林，可以说是出门即森林的最佳写照 芬兰人喜爱的燕麦粥也有源于拉普兰本地的各种莓果酱，
了。在夏天，拉普兰的太阳像是永远都不会落下一般。清 可以说是非常健康了。不过我印象比较深刻的还是自制的
晨起床的我们走过林间的小道，来到餐厅享受悠闲的早餐 蛋奶松饼，怪不得餐厅里的人都被它的香气吸引而来，排
时光。他家的自助早餐秉持了芬兰传统的美食文化，既有 起了队伍呢 ~

86 ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018

10:00 am 遇见圣诞老人
早餐后，来到鼎鼎大名的圣诞老人村的我们怎
能不去看看这个芬兰最有名的人物呢？不要以为只
有在圣诞节期间才能见到圣诞老人，勤劳的圣诞老
人和他的小精灵们可是全年无休地工作的！他们在
每年的 12 月显得格外忙碌，只有在圣诞夜（12 月
24 日）才会少工作半天。在夏天（6 月到 8 月），
圣诞老人的作息是朝九晚六的，所以完全不用担心
见不到他哦 ~ 如果你不是跟我们一样住在老人村旁
边，可以在市中心乘坐 8 路公交车前往圣诞老人设
在北极圈之上的办公室。在这里，圣诞老人接收来
自全球孩子们的信件，为他们答疑解惑 ；同时，来
访的游客也能和圣诞老人亲切握手，拍照留念，难
得的是周游列国的圣诞老人还能讲上两句标准的普 这个邮局的特别之处在于，从他们邮局寄出的明信片都会被敲
通话，让人倍感亲切。在圣诞老人村，我们还有个 上一个圣诞老人专用的邮戳。除了拍照寄明信片之外，“打卡”
重要任务，那就是前往圣诞老人邮局，为国内的亲 也是必不可缺的。在圣诞老人村的旅客咨询中心，我们还领取
朋好友们邮寄明信片，送去一份来自北极圈的问候。 了跨越北极圈的证书，可谓是收获满满～

1:30 pm 博物馆里的秘密
旅游怎么能离得开博物馆呢？罗瓦涅米的北极
博物馆是了解这个城市、地区、人文和历史的好地方。
我们首先看到的是矗立在凯米河边的拱形玻璃长廊，
听说这个特别的建筑设计直指北极，非常好的契合
了这个博物馆的立身之本——立足罗瓦涅米本地文
化，同时关注北极生态人文的宗旨和目标。在北极
博物馆里，我们才第一次认认真真的了解了芬兰在
二战中的历史。这个看似平和安宁的国家也曾经饱
经风霜，度过好长一段由国家统一管理物资配给的
日子。除了历史方面的知识，我们也看到了许多拉
普兰地区的动植物标本，譬如一比一大小的驯鹿标
4:00 pm 夏季的二哈们
本和麋鹿标本。作为鹿类中唯一被驯养的动物，驯
鹿在拉普兰人的生活中占据了极大的比重。从放牧 今天早上起床时，我们本还不确定下午的哈士奇狗场之
工具、驯养环境到放养图片，游客们都能细细阅览。 旅能否成行，听说夏季的温度高于 15 摄氏度，二哈们就不
当然，来到了北极博物馆最不能错过的就是观看北 能愉快地奔跑了。什么？你以为只有冬天才能够乘坐哈士奇
极光的视频了。夏天虽然可以来拉普兰感受极昼的 雪橇？那你就孤陋寡闻咯 ~ 夏天的时候，游客也可以乘坐在
魅力，却少了追极光的刺激。好在在博物馆里，躺 雪橇或是二轮车上，让哈士奇犬们带着你一起奔跑。同行的
着也能看极光 ~ 小伙伴们担心狗狗们拉雪橇会不会太累，哈士奇狗场的主人
却告诉我们说，二哈们其实是非常喜爱奔跑的，有时它们甚
至会因为太兴奋而显得格外腻人。不过室外温度太高的话的
确是不适宜它们进行高强度的运动，好在今天的温度比较舒
适（六月初 11℃左右），而我们则非常幸运咯 ~ 于是，在参
观了狗场设施之后，我们先是被带到了“小狗集中营”，和
这些萌萌哒的小狗们来了个亲密接触。狗场主人可以说是非
常了解中国人的喜好了，在我们摆了无数个姿势之后，还极
有耐心的指导我们和狗狗们来了个大合照。最后，我们每两
人坐进了一架二轮车中，由 6 只成年哈士奇牵引着跑过了一
小段森林。耳畔回荡的是二哈们的喘息声，鼻尖闻到的是拉
普兰青草的香气，而目之所及的是郁郁葱葱的森林。这种不
同于冬季的美同样让人沉醉 ~

ALL ABOUT LAPLAND | SUMMER 2018 87

 6:30 pm 拉普兰风味
晚餐我们选择了正宗的拉普兰风味——Nili 餐厅。这
家位于罗瓦涅米市中心的餐厅选取拉普兰当地新鲜食材，
从河中鲜鱼到森林驯鹿又或是本地的莓果菌菇，都被厨师
们用心烹调成美味、奉上餐桌。你以为这些都是我瞎编的
吗？才不是！当你拿着菜单不知所措的时候，Nili 的侍应
生就会询问你的国籍，然后殷勤的奉上中文的菜单！餐点
上桌的时候，服务生还会体贴地为我们详细介绍每道餐品，
将其中的调味和成分都一一详述，服务之周到让我们印象
深刻。不过最让我们耳目一新的还是 Nili 餐厅中纯拉普兰
风格的装饰 ：原木的桌椅板凳、垂吊着的驯鹿角灯饰、挂 9:00 pm 极昼的热力
靠在墙头的完整棕熊皮、被布置成拉普兰式帐篷的隔间和 晚上九点的太阳依然明晃晃地挂在天边，丝毫不因
悬挂在空中的鸟类标本等等，再再让人流连忘返。 “夜晚”的降临而有任何逊色。晚饭后的我们打算去奥纳
斯山上散步消食。奥纳斯山是罗瓦涅米本地唯一的一座
小山头，不过当地人却是非常懂得物尽其用。不仅依山
而建了圣诞体育中心、高尔夫球场等，人们还能够在山
巅享用美食、徒步旅行。同时，奥纳斯山也是在这个季
节里眺望整座城市的最佳地点，沿着步道走到山顶的瞭
望台便能在午夜时分的日光中将脚下的美景全都纳入眼
帘 ~ 我拿起手机看了一眼，晚上十点十五分。
当我们下山的时候，这座城市似乎还完全没有进入
睡眠时分的迹象。兴奋的年轻人们架着摩托车飞驰在高
速上，志同道合的朋友们结伴去蹦迪、桑拿。夏天里，
拉普兰人都沉迷于极昼的热力之中，睡觉也变得不那么
重要了 ~ 对于很多人来说，出门旅行就是买买买，然而
拉普兰人却告诉我们，生活应该慢下来，享受大自然中
的漫无目的和静谧安宁，让自己放空。

尊享拉普兰风味

品尝最正宗的拉普兰风味，NILI餐厅是您的不二选择。
位于罗瓦涅米市中心的NILI选取拉普兰当地新鲜食材，不
仅有河中鲜鱼、森林驯鹿、莓果菌菇，甚至还有最正宗的
熊肉！在这里，让您鱼和熊掌兼得~ 在拉普兰风格的餐厅
中，NILI必将让您爱上当地人用心烹调的每一味。

Valtakatu
地址：Nili,88 20, Rovaniemi
ALL ABOUT 2018 +358 40 036 9669
电话：
LAPLAND | SUMMER

营业时间：周二至周六17:00-23:00 电邮：restaurant@nili.fi
 心
站 息中
加油 旅 客信
北 极圈
订
动预
夏季活
三文
鱼
Nordic
圣诞
村的 Wild

7公
里 人 会面
瓦涅
米
展览 诞老
罗
圣诞
主题 与圣
餐厅 邮局
老人
1公
里 圣诞
洞穴 具
人的 品刀 圈
圣诞
老
蒂 尼名 北极
马拉

餐厅
普兰
牧场 vi 拉
d ay V
illage 驯鹿 Kota
ho
H o li
us
a Cla
Sant

圣诞老人邮局 圣诞主题展览 北极圈旅客信息中心

圣诞邮局中，小精灵们帮忙贩售明信片 你 知 道 芬 兰 的 圣 诞 老 人 叫 在北极圈的圣诞老人村，位于绿色方形
和邮票、分装来自全世界的圣诞老人信 “Joulupukki”吗？你知道几世纪前的 i 标志下的就是旅客信息中心。在这里，
徒们的信件。写完明信片后，你可以选 圣诞传统是什么吗？在圣诞邮局旁边的 你不仅能获颁原版北极圈跨越证书，能
择红色的圣诞邮筒或橘色的平日邮筒。 圣诞屋中圣诞主题展览展示了芬兰圣诞 私人定制拉普兰地区的旅游行程，甚至
所有的明信片都会被敲上圣诞老人村特 传统和拉普兰圣诞老人，还有全世界各 还可以现金退税。旅客信息中心全年无
殊的纪念邮戳，为亲朋好友们送去祝福。 国那些最有趣的圣诞文化。 休，恭候来自世界各地的游客。

驯鹿牧场 Kotahovi拉普兰餐厅 马拉蒂尼名品刀具

红鼻子鲁道夫是童话中为圣诞老人驱 位于圣诞老人村后的 Kotahovi 餐厅是 诞生于极地严冬和极昼午夜的马拉蒂
使、为好孩子们送去圣诞礼物和惊喜欢 一家传统的拉普兰餐厅。建筑形似传统 尼刀具极适合北欧严酷的环境，不过
乐的驯鹿。在圣诞老人村怎么能不拜访 拉普兰式帐篷，餐厅内饰由驯鹿角装饰 如今它也已经成为包括美国和加拿大
驯鹿牧场、看看鲁道夫的同胞们呢！夏 而成。你不仅能品尝到传统驯鹿肉，还 在内的家庭必需物件。不管是拥有全
季里，你也能够造访圣诞老人办公室后 有取自当地新鲜食材的正宗拉普兰特色 球限量编号的大马士革刀还是年度刀
的驯鹿牧场，说不定还有机会看到今年 餐饮。餐厅于 2018 年 6 月 2 日开放， 具，马拉蒂尼的精良品质都让人惊艳。
刚刚诞生的小驯鹿呢 ~ 营业时间为周一至周六 12 时至 16 时。 售于罗瓦涅米马拉蒂尼工厂店。
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