Kerala Natural Fibre - A Need Assessment Study & Remedial Workshop 2014-Compressed

You might also like

Download as pdf or txt
Download as pdf or txt
You are on page 1of 118

Kerala&Natural&Fibres&Micro&Industry&

Need&Assessment&Study&&&&
Design&Clinic&Workshop&Report&&
MSME!Design!Clinic!Scheme!
KSID,!Kollam!
Design!Consultant:!Hema!Raghunathan!
!

1!
Contents'

Introduc;on& 2&
Geographical&Loca;on&Of&Clusters& 3&

List&of&Units&for&NAS& 4&

Natural&Fibres&–&an&overview& 6&

Natural&Fibres&of&Kerala& 9&

Kollam&Cluster&& &
Straw&Picture&Macro&study& 10&
Straw&picture&Units&Study&& 15&
Analysis&of&issues&and&opportuni;es& 36&
Step&by&Step&Process&and&Interven;on&mapping& 38&
Screw&pine&macro&Study&& 39&
Screw&pine&Units&study& 41&
Screwpine&Step&by&Step&process&and&scope& 46&
& &
Alleppy&Cluster& 47&
Unit&study&–&VGM& 48&
Screw&pine&craO&&&units& 54&
Analysis&of&Issues&and&opportuni;es& 64&
Step&by&Step&process&and&scope& 66&
& &
Neyya;nkara&Cluster& 67&
Palm&leaf&Industry& 68&
Unit&study& 73&
Analysis&of&issues&and&Opportuni;es& 82&
Step&by&Step&process&and&scope& 84&
& &
Design&Clinic&Workshop&& 85&
& &
Poten;al&Design&Projects& 115&
& &
Conclusion& 117&
& &
& &
& &
&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
1&
Introduc-on'

The$Design$Clinic$Scheme$is$set$up$with$the$intention$of$helping$micro,$
small$and$medium$industries$to$boost$their$capacity.$It$is$estimated$that$
the$Micro,$medium$and$Small$scale$industries$form$94%$of$the$
manufacturing$base$in$India,$employing$about$60$million$people.$Much$of$
this$workforce$falls$under$the$unorganized$sector,$lacking$proper$data$&$
documentation$of$their$activities$and$capabilities.$$
$
The$objective$of$the$Design$Clinic$Scheme$is$to:$$
•  Bring$design$to$the$doorsteps$of$the$MSME.$
•  Create$platform$for$the$MSMEs$and$designers$for$their$continuous$and$
constant$interactions.$
•  Provide$expert$advice$and$solutions$on$real$time$design$problems.$$
This$document$focuses$on$the$natural$Mibre$micro$industries$of$selected$
clusters$in$Kerala,$South$India.$$
$
By$deMinition,$the$micro$industry$has$an$annual$turn$over$of$less$than$Rs.
25$lacks$which,$in$reality,$mostly$involves$the$informal$manufacturing$
sector$such$as$cottage$industries$and$rural$/semiSurban$units$of$
handicrafts$production.$In$a$developing$country$like$India,$the$micro$
industries$generate$local$level$employment$at$a$relatively$low$capital$
investment.$$They$are$considered$to$be$important$engines$of$industrial$as$
well$as$socioSeconomic$development.$Yet,$not$being$part$of$the$organized$
sector$has$its$perils$in$the$form$of$lack$of$access$to$information$on$new$
technologies,$markets$and$innovation$strategies$to$ensure$their$growth.$$$
$
The$scheme$is$supported$by$the$ministry$of$MSME$at$the$national$level$
and$implemented$by$the$National$Institute$of$Design,$Ahmedabad$in$
partnership$with$a$Nodal$agency$at$the$local$level,$which$in$this$case$is$
the$Kerala$State$Institute$of$Design$situated$at$Kollam,$Kerala.$$
$
The$Need$Assessment$Study$or$NAC$was$done$in$December$2013$&$$
February$2014$in$two$parts.$The$Design$Clinic$Workshops$were$
scheduled$between$29$May$and$3$June$2014.$$
$
Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
2&
Geographical'Loca-on'of'Clusters'Visited'

Alleppey&Cluster&–&Screw&pine&fibre&&&
assorted&natural&fibres&
Kollam&Cluster&–&Straw&and&screw&pine&
Neyya;nkara&Cluster&–&Palm&leaf&
&&

This$study$falls$under$the$Band$5$scheme$which$seeks$to$address$the$
needs$of$16$to$20$units.$$Three$heterogeneous$clusters,$mainly$engaged$in$
the$handicraft$manufacturing$methods$were$visited$and$documented$for$
this$study.$They$belong$to$different$districts$and$geographical$locations,$
spread$over$200$km$from$north$to$south.$$
South&Kerala&&
Kollam$:$Straw$picture$Mibre$and$Screw$pine$Mibre$crafts$$
Neyyatinkara:$Palm$leaf.$
Central&Kerala:&
Allepey:$Screw$pine$and$assorted$natural$Mibres.$$

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
3&
List'Of'Units'for'NAS'

Kollam'Cluster':'Straw'Picture'CraB'Units'

No& Unit&Name& Contact&Person&

1& Bharatham&Art&& Prop:&Gopalakrishna&Pillai&


Near&Kadavoor&Temple,&Kollam&[&691601&& Mob:&9446834171&

2& Quilon&HandicraOs&Coopera;ve&society&& Pres:&Radhakrishnan&&


CKP&Junc;on,&Kollam&–&691601.& Mob:&8129064417&&
3& Ashtamudi&HandicraO&Society& President:&Rajendran&Pillai&
Thannikkamukku,&Perinad&P.O,&Kollam&[&1&& (Na;onal&Awardee)&&
Mob:&9387943609&
4& Babu&Arts&& Prop:&K.Babu&&
Neeravil,&Perinaad&P.O,&Kollam&[&691601& (Na;onal&awardee&2006)&&
5& Kalash&Kala&HandicraOs&& Prop:&P.George&&
Mathilil,&Kollam&[&691601& Mob:&9446707151&
6& Vishnu&Arts&and&CraOs&Center&& Prop:&Mohan&&&Leela&Kumari&&
Kadavoor,&Mathilil&P.O,&Kollam&[&691601& Mob:&9495553784&
7& Modern&HandicraOs&Society&& Prop:&Sulaiman&Kudy&&&Reena&
Kadavoor,&Mathilil,&Kollam&[1& Mob:&9448515981&

Kollam'Cluster':'Screw'Pine'CraB'Units'
No& Unit&Name& Contact&Person&

8& Bhavana&HandicraOs&Society&& Secy.Ms.&Vimala&


Near&Panchayat&Office,&Thazhava,& Mob:&9562212968&
Kollam&disd.,&Kerala&[&690523&&
9& Ambadi&Codage&Industries& Prop:&Krishnakumar&
Thazhava,&Kerala&[&690523& Mob:&9961043459&
10& Kerala&Rural&Development&Agency& Mr.Salim&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
4&
Allepy'clusters'–'Screw'pine,'Banana'bark'&'assorted'fibres&

No& Unit&Name& Contact&Person&

11& Kodayam&Jilla&mahila&Thazhapaya&Vikasana& Pres:&Sally&Chechy&


Federal&Sami;,&Vaikom,&Kerala&[&686141& Mob:9633255815&
12& Jawahar&Memorial&Social&Welfare&Center& Pres:&&Thangam&Chechy&
Thalayolaparambu,&Vaikom,&Kerala& Mob:&9446206003&
13& Viashwagaji&Madom,&Muhamma&P.O& Head:&Swami&Asparsa&
Alappuzha,&Kerala&[&688545& Mob:9447489229&

Neyya-nkara'clusters'(Trivandrum):'Palm'leaf'&'Assorted'fibres'&

No& Unit&Name& Contact&Person&

14& Vanita&Niketan&Mahila&Samajam& Secy:Sarala&Kumari&


Mob:&9746121722&

15& Grama&Seva&Bhavan,&Kanjampazhinjil&PO& Chair:&Tirupuram&Gopan&


0471[2211686&
16& Aditya&Mahila&Samajam,&Aralumoodu&PO& Pres:&Shakunthala&
Near&KAL,&Neyya;nkara,&Trivandrum& Mob:&9995174092&
17& Gurukrupa&Women&Empowerment&Society& Pres:&Shylaja&Kumari&
Mob:&9349745036&
18& Anavoor&Mahila&Samajam& Secy:&Usha&
0471[2275837&
19& Chaitanya&Vanitha&Swayam&Sahaya&Sangam& Secy:K.Mercy&
Mob:9387075370&

Other$than$these$units,$the$showrooms$of$Surabhi$$&$Kairali$
handicrafts$(Kerala$state$handicraft$organizations)$in$Ernakulam$
and$Bangalore$were$visited$for$survey,$interaction$and$feedback.$$
Chance$meeting$with$a$retail$chain$buyer$also$took$place$on$Mield$
visit.$KSID’s$screw$pine$training$unit$(in$Chavara$village)$near$
Kollam$was$visited$for$observation$and$interaction.$

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
5&
Natural'Fibres'–'An'Overview'
Naturally$occurring$Mibres$are$mainly$found$in$the$plant$and$animal$
sources$and$they$have$been$in$to$provide$for$our$clothing$and$other$
needs$since$prehistoric$times.$While$wool$&$silk$are$the$most$sought$
after$animal$Mibres$in$the$textile$industry,$cotton$remains$the$most$
cultivated$plant$Mibre.$Together,$cotton,$silk$and$wool$are$called$major$
Mibres$and$all$others$as$“minor$natural$Mibres.$This$study$concentrates$
on$the$minor$natural$Mibres$in$selected$clusters$of$Kerala.$
A$simple$categorization$of$such$minor$plant$Mibres$is$as$follows:$
Seed&Fibre:$Collected$from$the$seeds$or$seed$cases$of$plants$such$as$
Cotton$and$Kapok.$
Leaf&Fibre:&Collected$from$the$leaves$of$plants$such$as$Sisal,$Agave$
and$Palmyra.$
Bast/Skin&9ibre:$Collected$from$the$skin$of$plant$surrounding$its$
main$stem$area$such$as$banana,$jute,$hemp$and$Flax.$
Fruit&Fibre:$Collected$from$the$fruit$of$the$plant$such$as$coir.$
Stalk&Fibre:&Stalk$of$the$plant$is$used$as$Mibre$S$such$as$wheat,$barley$
or$rice$straws,$bamboo$and$other$grasses.$$
$
Though$the$usage$of$natural$Mibres$decreased$around$the$world$after$
the$Second$World$War,$there$has$recently$been$a$renewed$interest$in$
the$natural$Mibres$other$than$the$commercially$exploited$ones$like$
cotton,$jute$and$silk$for$varied$reasons:$
Ecological&Resource:$Unlike$for$timber,$most$of$the$natural$Mibres$
can$be$harvested$or$extracted$while$keeping$the$main$plant$intact.$In$
addition$trees$like$Palmyra$also$serve$as$windSbreakers$and$Screw$
pine$protects$the$soil$in$coastal$areas.$$$
Role&in&local&skill&development&and&economy:$Plants$like$sisal$are$
very$hardy,$growing$in$arid$areas$in$poor$soil$conditions$where$
agriculture$is$not$feasible.$As$the$processing$of$major$Mibres$like$
cotton$&$silk$have$become$completely$industrialised,$taking$away$all$
the$economic$beneMit$from$the$people$who$grow$them,$raw$material$
of$these$minor$Mibres$is$still$available$to$poor$communities$for$
production.$

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
6&
Handcrafted$natural$Mibre$products$have$a$particular$value$in$the$
personal$accessories$category$be$it$bags$or$jewellery.$Global$level$
retailers$such$as$IKEA$have$consistently$been$catering$to$the$taste$of$
consumers$through$simple$but$wellSdesigned$basketry$&$storage$
boxes$constructed$out$of$natural$Mibres.$In$the$mainstream$industry,$
research$and$technology$applications$have$helped$bring$in$several$
types$of$NF$or$natural$Mibre$composites$such$as$bamboo$board$for$
housing.$

Car&roof&and&a&catamaran&made&of&composite&flax.&&
Below:&Storage&baskets&from&IKEA:&banana&bark,&hemp&rope&and&Screw&pine&
fibres&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
7&
A$conservative$estimate$of$international$demand$for$natural$Mibre$
from$India$puts$it$at$Rs.30$Crore$annually.$$Presently$India$is$not$able$
meet$even$10%$of$this$demand$in$export.$
$
The$study$document$by$the$ministry$of$textiles$(2008)$notes$that$
developing$natural$Mibres$“…can$play$a$key$role$in$the$emerging$green$
economy.$Due$to$the$Kyoto$protocol,$global$markets$are$in$the$
process$of$transition$towards$a$bioSbased$economy$on$green$house$
gas$reduction$and$carbon$neutral$production”.$It$mentions$the$
example$of$countries$that$have$fully$developed$their$Mibre$potential$
such$as$China$for$Mlax,$Philippines$for$Pineapple,$Tanzania$for$Sisal$
and$goes$onto$emphasise$the$need$for$a$new$Mibre$policy$to$take$up$
the$development$of$natural$Mibres$including$banana$as$India$is$the$
largest$producer$of$banana$with$nearly$33%$share$in$the$global$
production$which$leaves$us$with$a$big$chunk$of$the$Mibre$share$too.$$
The$above$mentioned$Mibre$policy$is$yet$to$be$passed$by$the$
Government$after$the$draft$was$submitted$in$2011.$However,$the$
truth$is$that$there$is$no$reliable$data$available$on$the$extent$of$
availability$of$any$of$these$Mibres$for$product$conversion.$Though$
much$of$the$extraction$&$conversion$are$manual$&$skill$intensive,$the$
indigenous$knowledge$of$natural$Mibre$production$by$various$rural$
communities$around$the$country$has$been$responsible$for$keeping$
the$resources$available.$Unfortunately,$with$the$recent$changes$in$the$
rural$economy$and$demography,$this$is$under$threat$as$we$can$see$in$
the$document$later$with$Kerala$as$an$example.$The$sector$needs$an$
effective,$comprehensive$intervention$covering$a$gamut$of$issues,$but$
unfortunately,$it$still$remains$a$little$footSnote$in$the$large$framework$
of$textile$policy.$Innovative$work$done$by$the$Jute$board$and$Coir$
board$by$virtue$of$their$autonomy$and$R$&$D$can$be$an$example$for$
the$exploiting$other$minor$Mibres.$$$
$$
$

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
8&
Natural'Fibres'of'Kerala''

The$diverse$natural$resources$of$Kerala$like$its$mountains,$coasts$and$
forests,$makes$it$rich$in$different$$types$of$natural$Mibres.$Coir,$
without$a$doubt$is$the$Mirst$among$natural$Mibres$in$Kerala$providing$
employment$to$nearly$4$lakh$people,$mostly$women.$Coconut$
accounting$for$nearly$45%$of$cultivation,$coir$is$the$most$abundant$
raw$material.$$$
$
The$clusters$covered$in$this$study$use$a$range$of$Mibres$other$than$
coir$for$which$traditional$industry$still$exists,$to$produce$simple$
constructions$of$mats$and$baskets$for$regular$markets.$From$a$microS
economic$and$design$perspective,$they$are$important$for$the$local$
communities$for$income$generation$and$creative$entrepreneurship.$
Much$of$the$work$force$consists$of$rural$women$in$the$minor$natural$
Mibres’$production$hence$the$social$development$aspect$is$effectively$
addressed$too.$$
$
Table&of&minor&natural&9ibres&in&Kerala:$
Natural'fibre' Geographical'areas' Craft'Clusters'
Areca'leaf! All'districts'! Palakkad'&'Thrissur'
Bamboo'&' Wayanad,'Kannur,'Calicut,' Wayanad,'Palakkad,'
Reed! Palakkad,'Thrissur,' Thrissur,'Ernakulam,'
Ernakulam,'Kottayam,' Idukki'and'Trivandrum.'
Idukki'&'Trivandrum.'!
Banana! All'districts'! Ernakulam,'Trivandrum'
Korai'Grass! Palakkad,'Alleppey,' Palakkad'
Thrissur,'Kottayam'!
Lantana! Palakkad'! Palakkad'
Palmyra! Palakkad,'Trivandrum! Trivandrum'
Pine'apple! All'districts! Nil'
Screw'pine! Ernakulam,'Kollam,' Ernakulam,'Kollam,'
Thrissur,'Kottayam! Aluva,'Kottayam'
Sisal! Palakkad! Palakkad'
Vetiver'(Khus)' Palakkad,'Thrissur,'TVM' Palakkad,'Thrissur,'TVM'
Water' All'districts' Ernakulam,'Thrissur.'
Hyacinth!
!

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
9&
Macro'Study''
Kollam$or$Quilon$is$an$old$seaport$and$town$on$the$Ashtamudi$lake$merging$
into$the$backwaters$of$Arabian$sea$in$Kerala.$The$city$was$well$known$from$
the$time$of$ancient$Romans$and$Phoenicians,$$maintained$major$commercial$
ties$with$the$Arabia$and$China$too.$$
Location:&In$southern$Kerala,$situated$about$70$km$north$of$the$state$
capital$Trivandrum.$Kollam$city$is$the$district$capital$which$has$Mive$Taluks$
under$it.$Kollam$has$good$rail,$road$as$well$as$water$ways$connectivity$to$
the$rest$of$the$state.$
Climate:&Tropical.$Hottest$months$are$March$&$April$ranging$about$320C$
with$a$very$high$level$of$humidity.$$
Natural&Resources:&Fishing,$agriculture$(coconut$and$cashew$as$main$
crops)$and$coir$manufacture$are$the$major$employers.$$
Demography:&Total&Population$as$of$2011$census$is:$26,29,703.$Kollam$has$
among$the$highest$literacy$rates$in$the$state$of$93.7%.$Its$sex$ratio$is$also$
the$highest$in$the$state.$$$$
Local&Industries:&&
Agriculture:$Major$crops$are$S$paddy,$tapioca,$coconut,$rubber,$and$pepper.$
Agriculture$sector$employs$about$70%$of$the$workforce.$
Fishing:$Fishing$has$a$prominent$place$in$the$district’s$economy$employing$
about$1.5$lakh$people$directly$in$50$Mishing$villages.$The$catch$is$estimated$
to$be$about$86,000$tonnes$per$annum.$$
Cashew&processing&industry$of$Kollam$accounts$for$80%$of$India’s$cashew$
processing$and$export.$The$Kerala$State$Cashew$Development$Corporation$
(KSCDC)$is$the$largest$processing$company$that$employs$about$26,000$
people,$mostly$women.$$$
17&large&&&medium&industries&include$mining$companies$like$Indian$Rare$
Earth$and$Kerala$Minerals$and$Metals,$as$Kollam$is$only$moderately$
industrialized.$A$much$higher$number$of$SSIs$S$small$scale$industries$across$
many$sectors$number$up$to$2000$units.$$
Coir&processing&is$the$biggest$natural$Mibre$activity$among$the$small$scale$
industry,$generating$about$3.5$lakh$jobs.$
Tourism:&Kollam$gets$a$fair$share$of$footfall$from$Kerala’s$thriving$tourism$
industry$too.$With$several$dozen$resorts$on$the$lake$and$backwaters,$the$
tourist$season$runs$from$October$to$March$every$year.$$$
Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
10&
Chinese&fishing&nets,&backwaters&of&
Kollam&and&the&representa;on&in&the&
form&of&Straw&Art&below.&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
11&
Straw&Picture&units,&Kollam&Municipality&
&
Screw&pine&units,&Thazhava&

Among$the$creative$industries,$straw$art$of$Kollam$and$the$screw$pine$
weaving$are$well$known.$Together$they$contribute$a$unique$cultural$face$of$
Kollam$cluster.$A$brief$historical$background$of$these$two$micro$industries:$$$$
$
Straw&Picture&Craft&of&Kollam:&
Kachchi$Padam$S$literally$meaning$straw$picture$is$a$unique$product$form$
Kollam,$a$ubiquitous$wall$art$seen$in$many$Kerala$homes$and$commercial$
establishments.$$It$has$a$relatively$recent$history$of$beginning$in$the$60s$by$
a$Kollam$based$artist$called$K.V.Victor.$He$was$inspired$by$a$greeting$card$
from$Europe$made$with$wheat$straw$and$proceeded$to$create$Kerala’s$
backwater$scenes$with$straws$from$the$rice$plant$in$place$of$wheat$straw$
on$fabric.$It$would$seem$that$there$was$no$looking$back$for$this$fusion$of$
art/craft,$as$he$went$on$to$establish$a$large$unit$of$200$people$in$Kollam$
whom$he$trained$and$employed.$&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
12&
State$handicraft$institutions$Surabhi$and$Kairali$picked$up$large$numbers$
of$the$greeting$cards$S$to$the$tune$of$six$lakh$pieces$per$year$in$addition$to$
the$private$orders$he$received.$Many$of$his$senior$students$started$their$
own$units$subsequently.$$
$
In$its$Golden$age$(till$the$Mirst$half$of$2000),$this$craft$industry$seems$to$
have$employed$over$600$people.$$Now$its$estimated$that$there$are$150$
trained,$skilled$people$in$Kollam$but$the$eight$established$units$together$
can$provide$employment$to$less$than$50$of$them.$Over$the$last$Mifteen$
years,$the$craft$industry$has$seen$a$bigger$number$of$women$artists$and$a$
slow$decline$of$men$artists.$Currently,$only$about$ten$senior$men$are$still$
practicing$as$artist/entrepreneurs$while$women$form$the$bulk$of$the$work$
force$in$the$units.$$
&
Distribution&of&Straw&picture&units&in&Kollam&Cluster:&
There$are$toatlly$8$units$of$strawpicture$making$located$within$Kollam$city.$
The$main$concentration$is$near$Perinad$and$Kadavoor.$The$units$are$
mostly$run$on$a$propriortroship$basis$with$each$currently$emplyoing$about$
4$to$7$people.$$
&
Resource&availability&&
The$main$raw$material,$paddy$straw$is$courced$from$Kottarakkara$(40$km$
away)$area$after$the$harvest$season$in$January/February$every$year,$
processed$initially$and$stocked$for$the$whole$year.$
Other$materails$such$as$board,$poplin$fabric$and$gum$are$available$locally$
in$shops$and$sourced$on$need$basis.$
$
The$road$and$rail$connectivity$have$helped$the$craft$reach$many$other$
cities$like$Cochin,$Delhi$and$touristic$destinations,$resorts$etc.,$
&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
13&
The$average$earning$is$between$Rs.150/S$and$Rs.200/S$per$day$(based$
on$piece$rates)$which$does$not$seem$attractive$considering$the$
earnings$from$other$sources$in$the$region.$The$units$are$mostly$
proprietorships$with$the$workshops$located$in$the$master$artists’$
homes.$There$are$two$main$societies$namely$the$Quilon$Handicrafts$
Society$and$Ashtamudi$Handicrafts$Industrial$CoSoperative$society.$$$
&
Past&Interventions:$All$prominent$Govt.$institutions$such$as$DC$
Handicrafts,$$Kerala’s$state$craft$support$agencies$like$Surabhi$&$
Kairali$,$KSID$and$NABARD$have$sponsored$a$multitude$of$skill$training$
programmes$and$helped$craftsmen$with$orders$and$loans.$Two$artists$
have$received$the$President’s$national$award$and$many$have$received$
various$state$and$merit$awards.$$&
&
Marketing:$Kerala’s$state$emporia$Surabhi$and$Kairali$form$the$main$
market$for$the$bulk$of$the$production$with$some$units$solely$
depending$on$them.$To$their$credit,$the$master$artists$have$innovated$
on$the$themes$of$the$pictures$and$expanded$into$intricate$portraits$and$
murals$on$a$plywood$base.$These$art$pieces$are$made$few$in$number$
but$command$a$large$price$and$are$completely$custom$made.$Orders$
for$these$art$pieces$come$from$individuals,$restaurants,$resorts$and$
exhibitions.$The$units$also$sub$contract$work$to$each$other$if$there$$is$a$
large$number$of$orders.$Some$units$depend$more$on$exhibitions$within$
the$state$and$outside.$However$the$owners$try$to$adapt$to$the$declined$
markets,$it$has$hit$the$workforce$and$the$morale$in$general$is$down.$$
Some$units$are$even$on$the$verge$of$shutting$down.$

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
14&
Micro'level'Study'–'Kollam'Straw'Picture'

Symbols&used&in&the&document&
&
Best&Prac;ce&
&
Issue&
&
Opportunity&
&
&
&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
15&
Raw&materials:$

The&rice&straw&collected&aOer&harvest&
(best&season&is&January[February)&for&
the&whole&year.&&
&&

Removing&the&unwanted&parts&of&the&straw&individually&with&a&pen&
knife.&The&straw&is&finally&a&length&of&8”to&10”and&width&of&about&half&
and&inch.&Its&then&cleaned&by&soaking&in&plain&water&for&a&few&hours,&
dried&in&the&sun&and&sored&in&bundles&inside&gunny&sacks&for&future&use.&&

Once&prepared,&the&straw&stays&for&about&1&year&with&good&colour&aOer&which&
it&darkens&gradually.&Mellow&&gold&is&considered&to&be&a&good&colour.&For&a&
good&picture&with&sufficient&depth,&a&range&of&natural&shades&from&golden&
yellow&to&dark&brown&are&sorted&carefully.&The&straw&can&be&dyed&using&tex;le&
dyes&but&the&overall&preference&is&for&natural&shades.&&&&
&&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
16&
Materials,&Tools&and&Equipment:$

The&base&of&the&picture&is&the&waste&board,&which&is&cut&in& The&small&waste&pieces&
nearby&prin;ng&press&into&various&sizes.&& can&be&effec;vely&used&in&
making&miniature&murals.&
The&standard&sizes:&12”X&8”,&20”X&14”,&&26”X&15”&&&28”X&14.&
Also&different&kinds&of&
Different&thicknesses&of&the&board&preferred&for&sizes.&& cloths&can&be&used&for&
The&board&is&then&pasted&with&black&poplin&cloth&with&the&use&of& value&addi;on&such&as&
home&made&maida&paste.&& double&coloured&silk.&&
& &
Arabic&gum,&the&naturally&occurring&tree&sap&is&used&as&the&min&
binding&agent&for&the&straw&on&the&cloth.&Dissolved&in&water&
overnight,&the&paste&has&the&unique&property&of&not&leaving&any&
lumps&or&stain&on&the&surface.&It&might&seem&that&without&this&
adhesive,&the&craO&is&not&possible!&
Other&tools&include&blade,&cuder,&penknife&and&basic&sta;onary&
as&shown&above&right.&The&threaded&press&is&used&for&fadening&
the&pictures&once&they&are&finished.&
&
&

&The&board&is&prone&to&warping&in&large&sizes.&
Hence&the&ar;sts&use&ply[board&when&they&
make&large&murals.&&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
17&
Straw&Picture&Production&Process:$
Pencil&outline&of&a&typical&picture&usually&
done&by&an&ar;st&hired&for&this&purpose.&The&
lines&are&only&sugges;ve&here,&the&starw&
artsits&renders&it&into&various&shades&and&
shapes&of&straw.&The&appren;ceship&of&
trainees&usually&starts&with&the&perfect&
rendi;on&of&the&&coconut&tree,&as&they&say!

Prepara;on&of&strand:&Straw&piece&of&the&
appropriate&colour&and&size&is&chosen,&pith&&is&
scraped&off&with&a&knife&and&smoothened&on&hand&
un;l&pliable&&&shiny&for&s;cking.&
The&underside&of&the&strand&is&dipped&in&the&gum&
solu;on&and&cleaned&on&the&rim.&The&straw&piece&
then&is&brought&to&the&drawing,&stuck&on&the&cloth&
while&the&unwanted&por;ons&are&trimmed&off&with&
the&razor&blade&so&deOly&that&it&seems&to&be&a&
flying&mo;on&between&the&fingers&and&the&blade.&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
18&
Finishing&and&Storage:$
After$the$picture$is$completed$and$dried,$ivory$paper$is$cut$to$shape$and$
stuck$at$the$back$to$cover$up$the$board$and$cloth.$The$picture$now$if$left$
overnight$on$the$press$for$Mlattening.$The$pictures$are$individually$
wrapped$in$clear$plastic$covers$and$usually$stored$in$the$steel$cupboards$
inside$a$room$/$home$for$protection.$$Simple$loops$$or$threads$are$attched$
for$hanging.$$A$few$units$also$have$their$seal$at$the$back.$$
Branding$communication$is$missing$and$the$buyer$would$not$really$know$
its$an$authentic$crafted$product.$

Transportation&and&Damage:$
Being$Mlat$with$no$raised$areas$(straw$sticks$absolutely$
Mlush$with$the$surface),$the$pictures$are$easy$to$transport$
and$lightweight$too.$However,$its$recommended$that$the$
picture$is$framed$in$glass$for$longevity.$But$often,$the$cost$
of$the$frame$exceeds$that$of$the$picture$and$in$addition$
they$can$be$bulky$to$transport.$There$is$a$need$to$design$
affordable$frames$which$can$be$a$great$value$addition$as$
the$picture$can$sell$for$a$much$higher$price$when$framed$–$
This$was$also$echoed$by$the$manager$at$Surabhi$show$
room$in$Ernakulam$from$his$experience$of$marketing$the$
pictures$in$the$past.$$

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
19&
Product&Range:$
Depictions$of$the$idyllic$backwater$scene$are$mass$
produced$on:$Greeting$cards$(paper)$sometimes$combined$
with$dried$peepal$leaf.$Wall$panels$/$hangings$of$various$
sizes$as$mentioned$earlier.$These$are$pieces$between$Rs$
50/S$and$600/S.$Christian$themes$are$very$popular.$
New&customized&designs&include:$Portraits,$large$scale$
murals$for$resorts$/$interiors$on$plySboard.$The$
entrepreneurship$of$some$artists$has$brought$about$new$
innovations$and$expanded$the$reach$of$the$product.$They$
have$managed$to$side$step$the$quaint$greeting$card$feel$of$
the$old$designs$and$reinvent$a$mural$form$for$the$straw$art.$
These$new$categories$fetch$anywhere$between$Rs.10,000/S$
to$50,000/S$per$mural$or$portrait$depending$on$the$number$
of$days$and$artistic$$rendition.$

Right:&Detail&from&a&KSID&
workshop&with&a&Chennai&
based&fine&ar;st.&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
20&
Portraits&and&Islamic&calligraphy&some&
of&the&customized&work&done&by&
master&ar;sts.&Modern&technology&is&
also&co[opted&as&they&work&with&print&
outs&on&ply&board.

A&4O&long&straw&mural&done&for&an&exhibi;on&inspired&by&
Tanjore&pain;ng&style.&Tex;le&dyes&are&some;mes&used&though&
natural&is&the&most&soO&aOer&palede&&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
21&
Point&Of&Purchase&Issues:&
The$units$do$not$have$any$display$or$selling$system.$$
The$Surabhi$showrooms$visited$do$not$have$adequate$display$facilities$for$
straw$picture$craft.$$The$overall$impression$one$gets$is$that$it’s$a$cheap$
product$and$may$be$of$suspect$quality.$Although$the$emporium$sells$very$
expensive$mural$painting$and$oil$painting$from$Kerala,$the$same$treatment,$
unfortunately$does$not$extend$to$this$craft$form.$This$has$led$to$a$price$and$
value$stagnation$that$can$only$be$broken$by$a$straight$forward$dialogue$
between$all$the$stake$holders$at$least$with$the$Govt.$sector$buyer.$$
$

Straw&picture&panels&piled&up&in&a&
Surabhi&showroom,&Ernakulam.&
Above:&The&tacky,&thin&thread&
provided&for&hanging&of&a&picture.&&
The&canvas&mural&pain;ngs&below,&
however,&sell&for&3&thousand&rupees&
or&more&,&when&a&similar&sized&straw&
art’s&price&is&about&300/[

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
22&
Turn&over&and&Employability&Potential:&
Except$for$Ashtamudi$CoSoperative$Society$which$reports$a$turn$over$of$
about$10$lacks$all$other$units$seem$to$range$between$1.5$and$2$lack$
rupees.$The$average$employee$strength$is$about$5$while$they$can$
increase$the$number$to$three$times$more$than$that$in$case$of$orders.$
Everyone$has$witnessed$a$near$halving$of$orders$from$their$regular$
sources$like$Kairali$and$Surabhi.$If$some$immediate$marketing$
intervention$is$possible,$they$can$easily$double$their$turn$over$without$
any$extra$investments.$
'

Work&Station,&Ergonomics&&&Environmental&Factors:&
Straw$picture$units$are$the$only$workstations$to$use$tables$and$chairs$
while$almost$all$natural$Mibre$crafts$are$practiced$on$the$ground.$
Considerable$amount$of$bending$over$work$can$cause$neck$strain$and$eye$
sight$issues$hence$some$check$ups$may$be$necessary$from$time$to$time.$
The$infrastructure$is$quite$adequate$in$some$units$that$have$about$500$to$
1000$sq.ft$Mloor$area.$Some$home$based$units$however,$are$much$smaller,$
housing$only$about$5$or$6$people.$All$of$them$have$large$windows$for$
natural$light$which$turns$a$little$$problematic$only$during$the$heavy$rains$
of$Kerala$for$4$months,$when$they$have$to$put$plastic$sheets$over$windows$
to$prevent$the$water$from$entering.$Humidity$and$poor$light$during$the$
rainy$months$pose$a$challenge$too,$forcing$the$work$pace$to$slow$down$as$
the$drying$of$board,$fabric$etc.,$takes$a$long$time.$Possibility$of$electrical$
dryers$can$be$explored.$To$keep$the$prepared$pictures$safe$from$humidity$
and$to$absorb$moisture,$siliconSgel$sachets$can$also$be$used.$

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
23&
Units'Study''

Name&of&Unit:&Quilon$Handicrafts$Society$
Unit&Description:&Registered$society$since$35$years.$$
President:$Mr.Radhakrishnana$
Nature&of&work:&Straw$picture$producer.&$
Infrastructure:&Around$1000$sq$ft$campus$with$a$production$shed,$
ofMice$and$storage$cell.$$
Employee&Strength:$Total$members$118$but$actively$producing$
members$are$only$10.$
Turn&over:&Around$1.5$lakhs$per$annum$currently.$Has$come$down$from$
over$10$lakhs$earlier.$
Main&market:&Surabhi:$70%,$Kairali$20%,$Exhibitions:10%$
Product&Range:&Pictures$depicting$backwater$scenes$in$various$sizes.$$

The&above&unit&located&in&a&
residen;al&area.&Finished&
products&stored&in&a&steel&
cupboard&for&safety.&Raw&straw&
is&stored&in&side&a&closed&room.&
The&weighted&press&(right).&&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
24&
Design&Opportunity& Remarks'

Market&related&aspects& Communica;on:&
& Comprehensive&product&catalogue&&&website&needed.&
Effec;ve&Branding&&&Cer;fica;on.&
&
Market&study:&
Produc;on&goes&to&Govt&stores&and&Govt.&organized&
exhibi;ons.&
Infrastructure&related&aspects& Good&connec;vity&to&unit,&located&within&Kollam&city.&&
& Large&produc;on&facility&with&adequate&furniture.&&
Large&facility&but&could&do&with&beder&lay&out&to&allow&for&
beder&storage&of&raw&material&and&finished&goods.&
Rain&protec;on&needed.&
Produc;on&related&aspects& A&large&number&of&waste&pieces&generated&(both&board&
& and&fabric),&small&products&can&be&made.&
& Fabrics&can&change&for&value&addi;on.&
& Not&much&innova;ve&designs&as&the&main&market&is&Govt.&
& &
Tooling&/&worksta;on/ Simple&hand&tools&used.&
Ergonomics& Unit&has&sufficient&number&of&chairs&and&tables&for&the&
present&working&members.&
Long&hours&of&bending&over&the&work&needs&to&be&
examined&for&ergonomic&issues.&
Environmental&Aspects& Humidity&causes&the&adhesive&to&s;ck&slowly&during&
& monsoon&for&4&months&so&produc;on&pace&is&lowered&by&
& almost&50%.&Possibility&of&customized&Dryers&for&the&
industry.&
Training,&Skill&up[grada;on& Has&been&given&several&training&programmes&and&design&
&&capacity&building& interven;on&but&nothing&new&goes&into&produc;on.&
&
Display&of&Products&&&& No&separate&display&unit.&Finished&goods&stored&in&Godrej&
Safe&Storage& Cupboard&and&raw&materials&on&floor/tables.&
Packing&&&Logis;cs& Products&in&clear&plas;c&covers&packed&in&cartons&for&
forwarding.&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
25&
Name&of&Unit:&Ashtamudi$Handicrafts$Society$
Unit&Description:&Registered$society$since$7$years.$$
President:$Mr.Rajendra$Pillai$(National$Award$Winner)$
Nature&of&work:&Straw$picture$producer.&$
Infrastructure:&Around$700$sq$ft$space$in$a$separate$building$behind$
owner’s$home.$$No$power$tools.$Only$handStools$for$stitching$screw$pine.$$
Employee&Strength:$Producing$members$are$around$7.$$
Turn&over:&Around$10$lakhs.$
Main&market:&Private$and$Govt$Exhibitions$30%,$Private$orders$70%$
Product&Range:&Specilaized$in$portraits$and$large$murals.$Lot$of$
innovation$in$design$&$materials.$Charges$up$to$50,000/S$per$mural.$Has$
installed$a$large$mural$in$Delhi$metro.$

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
26&
Design&Opportunity& Remarks'

Market&related&aspects& Communica;on:&
& Comprehensive&product&catalogue&&&website&needed.&
Effec;ve&Branding&&&Cer;fica;on.&
&
Market&study:&
Extremely&innova;ve&and&enterprising.&Many&Private&
clients&and&highly&value&added&products.&
Infrastructure&related&aspects& Good&connec;vity&to&unit,&located&within&Kollam&city.&&
& Large&produc;on&facility&with&adequate&furniture.&&
Produc;on&related&aspects& A&large&number&of&waste&pieces&generated&(both&board&
& and&fabric),&small&products&can&be&made.&
& Fabrics&can&change&for&value&addi;on.&
& Portraits&speciality&calls&for&high&skilled&workmanship.&
& High&value&products.&
& &
Tooling&/&worksta;on/ Simple&hand&tools&used.&
Ergonomics& Unit&has&sufficient&number&of&chairs&and&tables&for&the&
present&working&members.&
Long&hours&of&bending&over&the&work&needs&to&be&
examined&for&ergonomic&issues.&
Environmental&Aspects& Humidity&causes&the&adhesive&to&s;ck&slowly&during&
& monsoon&for&4&months&so&produc;on&pace&is&lowered&by&
& almost&50%.&Possibility&of&customized&Dryers&for&the&
industry.&
Training,&Skill&up[grada;on& High&capacity&leadership&and&ar;sanal&talent.&
&&capacity&building& Master&trainer&under&Guru&Shishya&scheme&of&DC(H).&Has&
currently&10&trainees.&Has&already&trained&numerous&
people&over&the&last&20&years,&with&very&few&coming&
seriously&into&the&industry.&
&
Display&of&Products&&&& No&separate&display&unit.&Finished&goods&stored&in&Godrej&
Safe&Storage& Cupboard&and&raw&materials&on&floor/tables.&
Packing&&&Logis;cs& Products&in&clear&plas;c&covers&packed&in&cartons&for&
forwarding.&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
27&
Name&of&Unit:&Bharatham$Arts$
Unit&Description:&Proprietorship$for$the$last$30$years.$$
Owner:$Gopalakrishnan$$
President:$Mr.Radhakrishnana$
Nature&of&work:&Straw$picture$producer.&$
Infrastructure:&About$400$sq.ft$workshop$attached$to$owner’s$home.$
Employee&Strength:$10$
Turn&over:&Around$8$lakhs$per$annum$(guesstimate)$
Main&market:&Exhibitions:50%,$Custom$orders$30%,$private$20%$
Product&Range:&Pictures$&$greeting$cards$depicting$backwater$scenes,$
Murals$for$resorts,$homes$and$framed$Hindu$/Christian$themes$and$
modern$art.$$

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
28&
Design&Opportunity& Remarks'

Market&related&aspects& Communica;on:&
& Comprehensive&product&catalogue&&&website&needed.&
Effec;ve&Branding&&&Cer;fica;on.&
&
Market&study:&
Some&produc;on,&usually&the&simple&ones&go&to&Govt&
stores.&Main&income/profit&comes&from&individual&custom&
orders,&modern&pain;ngs&sold&directly&at&exhibi;ons.&Has&
established&the&straw&picture&as&an&art&form&hence&gets&
beder&value&than&many&other&units.&&
Infrastructure&related&aspects& Good&connec;vity&to&unit,&located&within&Kollam&city.&&
& Small&produc;on&facility,&home&based.&&&
All&the&storage&is&inside&the&house.&
Rain&protec;on&needed&for&the&workshed.&
Produc;on&related&aspects& A&large&number&of&waste&pieces&generated&(both&board&
& and&fabric),&small&products&can&be&made.&
& Fabrics&can&change&for&value&addi;on&of&local&products.&
& Highly&innova;ve&designs&as&the&main&market&is&private&
& and&compe;;ve.&
& &
Tooling&/&worksta;on/ Simple&hand&tools&used.&
Ergonomics& Unit&has&sufficient&number&of&chairs&and&tables&for&the&
present&working&members.&
Long&hours&of&bending&over&the&work&needs&to&be&
examined&for&ergonomic&issues.&
Environmental&Aspects& Humidity&causes&the&adhesive&to&s;ck&slowly&during&
& monsoon&for&4&months&so&produc;on&pace&is&lowered&by&
& almost&50%.&Possibility&of&customized&Dryers&for&the&
industry.&
Training,&Skill&up[grada;on& Has&been&given&several&training&programmes&and&trained&
&&capacity&building& about&500&people.&Yet&only&very&few&join&back&due&to&
inadequate&income&for&rou;ne&work.&&
Display&of&Products&&&& No&separate&display&unit.&Finished&goods&stored&in&Godrej&
Safe&Storage& Cupboard&and&raw&materials&on&floor/tables.&
Packing&&&Logis;cs& Products&in&clear&plas;c&covers&packed&in&cartons&for&
forwarding.&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
29&
Name&of&Unit:&Babu$Arts$
Unit&Description:&Proprietorship$for$the$last$25$years.$$
Owner:$K.Babu$(National$Award$2006)$&$Shobana$
Nature&of&work:&Straw$picture$producer.&$
Infrastructure:&About$400$sq.ft$$workshed$attached$to$owner’s$home.$
Employee&Strength:$8$regular$employees$but$can$mobilize$up$to$25$
people$in$case$of$big$orders.$
Turn&over:&5$lakhs$per$annum,$guesstimate$
Main&market:&Kairali,&Khadi$Gramdyog$(ut$reduced$now),&Retailers$and$
individuals$$
Product&Range:&Pictures$&$greeting$cards$depicting$backwater$scenes,$
modern$art,$murals.$$

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
30&
Design&Opportunity& Remarks'

Market&related&aspects& Effec;ve&Branding&&&Cer;fica;on&necessary&for&the&unit&to&
& grow.&
&
Regular&markets&like&emporia&(Kairali,&Khadi)&have&become&
stagnant.&Na;onal&award&helps&in&gesng&special&
individual&mural&orders&and&some&exhibi;ons.&
Infrastructure&related&aspects& Good&connec;vity&to&unit,&located&within&Kollam&city.&&
& Small&produc;on&facility,&home&based.&&&
Storage&is&part&of&the&shed&and&also&inside&the&house.&
Rain&protec;on&needed&for&the&work&shed.&
Produc;on&related&aspects& From&the&waste&pieces&generated&(both&board&and&fabric),&
& small&products&can&be&made.&
& Fabrics&can&change&for&value&addi;on&of&local&products.&
& Innova;ve&designs&are&done&for&niche&markets.&
& &
Tooling&/&worksta;on/ Simple&hand&tools&used.&
Ergonomics& Unit&has&adequate&infrastructure&for&the&present&working&
members.&
Long&hours&of&bending&over&the&work&needs&to&be&
examined&for&ergonomic&issues.&
Environmental&Aspects& Humidity&causes&the&adhesive&to&s;ck&slowly&during&
& monsoon&for&4&months&so&produc;on&pace&is&lowered&by&
& almost&50%.&Possibility&of&customized&Dryers&for&the&
industry.&
Training,&Skill&up[grada;on& Many&have&been&trained&but&very&few&join&back&to&work.&
&&capacity&building& Stagnant&market&and&low&value&addi;on&from&emporia&
needs&to&be&addressed.&
Display&of&Products&&&& No&separate&display&unit.&Finished&goods&stored&in&Godrej&
Safe&Storage& Cupboard&and&raw&materials&on&floor/tables.&
Packing&&&Logis;cs& Products&in&clear&plas;c&covers&packed&in&cartons&for&
forwarding.&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
31&
Name&of&Unit:&Kalash$Kala$Handicraft$
Unit&Description:&Proprietorship$since$1975.$$$
Owner:$P.George$
Nature&of&work:&Straw$picture$producer.&$
Infrastructure:&About$800$sq.ft$$work$shed$attached$
to$owner’s$home.$
Employee&Strength:$3$(not$regular)$$
Turn&over:&NA$
Main&market:&Private$$bulk$traders$but$dwindling$
orders,$Going$to$stop$production$on$account$of$low$
demand.$$
Product&Range:&Pictures$&$greeting$cards$depicting$
backwater$scenes,$Christian$Migures$etc.,$

Name&of&Unit:&Vishnu$Arts$
Unit&Description:&Proprietorship$for$the$last$20$years.$$
Owner:$Mohan$and$Leela$Kumari$
Nature&of&work:&Straw$picture$producer.&$
Infrastructure:&About$5’X$10’$workspace$in$owner’s$home.$
Employee&Strength:$4$including$owners$
Turn&over:&3$lakhs$per$annum$
Main&market:&Retailers,$traders$&$Job$work$for$other$$units$
Product&Range:&Pictures$&$greeting$cards$depicting$backwater$scenes.$$

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
32&
Design&Opportunity& Remarks'

Market&related&aspects& Effec;ve&Branding&&&Cer;fica;on&necessary&for&the&units&
& to&revive.&
&
All&produc;on&is&geared&towards&middle&men&and&job&
work.&Low&profit&margins&but&steady&orders&for&a&home&
based&unit.&&
Infrastructure&related&aspects& Good&connec;vity&to&unit,&located&within&Kollam&city.&&
& Small&produc;on&facility,&home&based.&&&
All&the&storage&is&inside&the&house.&
Rain&protec;on&needed&for&the&work&shed.&
Produc;on&related&aspects& From&the&waste&pieces&generated&(both&board&and&fabric),&
& small&products&can&be&made.&
& Fabrics&can&change&for&value&addi;on&of&local&products.&
& Innova;ve&designs&needed&for&beder&profitability&but&the&
& marke;ng&effort&from&owners&needs&to&step&up.&
& &
Tooling&/&worksta;on/ Simple&hand&tools&used.&
Ergonomics& Unit&has&very&basic&infrastructure&for&the&present&working&
members.&
Long&hours&of&bending&over&the&work&needs&to&be&
examined&for&ergonomic&issues.&
Environmental&Aspects& Humidity&causes&the&adhesive&to&s;ck&slowly&during&
& monsoon&for&4&months&so&produc;on&pace&is&lowered&by&
& almost&50%.&Possibility&of&customized&Dryers&for&the&
industry.&
Training,&Skill&up[grada;on& Marke;ng&assistance&and&innova;ve&designs&to&move&out&
&&capacity&building& of&the&rou;ne&work.&Has&never&been&to&any&training&
programmes.&Has&to&take&up&other&jobs&for&supplementary&
income&
Display&of&Products&&&& No&separate&display&unit.&Finished&goods&stored&in&Godrej&
Safe&Storage& Cupboard&and&raw&materials&on&floor/tables.&
Packing&&&Logis;cs& Products&in&clear&plas;c&covers&packed&in&cartons&for&
forwarding.&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
33&
Name&of&Unit:&Modern$Handicrafts$
Unit&Description:&Proprietorship$for$the$last$30$years.$$$
Owner:$Sulaiman$Kutty$and$Reena$
Nature&of&work:&Straw$picture$producer.&$
Infrastructure:&About$100$sq.ft$$work$shed$attached$$
to$owner’s$home$but$most$of$work$given$to$individual$
homes.$
Employee&Strength:$10$(working$from$homes)$$
Turn&over:&3$lakhs$(guesstimate)$
Main&market:&Private$$bulk$orders,$exhibitions.$$
Product&Range:&Pictures$&$greeting$cards$depicting$
backwater$scenes,$wildlife,$still$life,$Christian$Migures.$$

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
34&
Design&Opportunity& Remarks'

Market&related&aspects& Effec;ve&Branding&&&Cer;fica;on&necessary&for&the&unit&to&
& grow.&
&
Exhibi;ons&in&small&towns&help&in&marke;ng&efforts.&&
Infrastructure&related&aspects& Good&connec;vity&to&unit,&located&within&Kollam&city.&&
& Small&produc;on&facility,&home&based.&&&
Storage&is&part&of&the&shed&and&also&inside&the&house.&
Rain&protec;on&needed&for&the&work&shed.&
Produc;on&related&aspects& From&the&waste&pieces&generated&(both&board&and&fabric),&
& small&products&can&be&made.&
& Fabrics&can&change&for&value&addi;on&of&local&products.&
& Innova;ve&designs&are&done&for&niche&markets.&
& &
Tooling&/&worksta;on/ Simple&hand&tools&used.&
Ergonomics& Basic&infrastructure&for&the&present&working&members.&
Long&hours&of&bending&over&the&work&needs&to&be&
examined&for&ergonomic&issues.&
Environmental&Aspects& Humidity&causes&the&adhesive&to&s;ck&slowly&during&
& monsoon&for&4&months&so&produc;on&pace&is&lowered&by&
& almost&50%.&Possibility&of&customized&Dryers&for&the&
industry.&
Training,&Skill&up[grada;on& Has&innova;ve&designs&&&good&enterprise&to&address&gaps&
&&capacity&building& in&the&market;&more&design&support&to&create&value&
addi;on&for&smaller&products&would&help.&&
Display&of&Products&&&& No&separate&display&unit.&Finished&goods&stored&in&Godrej&
Safe&Storage& Cupboard&and&raw&materials&on&floor/tables.&
Packing&&&Logis;cs& Products&in&clear&plas;c&covers&packed&in&cartons&for&
forwarding.&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
35&
Analysis'of'Issues'&'Opportuni-es'
Capacity&Of&Cluster:&Employability$potential$is$high.$Low$capital$
investment$in$for$the$returns$in$terms$of$revenue,$employment$and$USP.$
Raw$materials$are$available$locally.$They$are$self$sustaining$enterprises$
with$very$little$dependence$on$outside$intervetion$so$far.$Master$artisan$
skills$are$still$present,$hence$training$new$generation$as$well$as$skill$upS
gradation$is$possible.$Owing$to$the$generally$low$level$of$industrial$activity$
in$the$cluster,$this$can$still$attract$many$new$entrants.$$$
&
Drawbacks&of&the&Cluster:&The$product$development$and$promotion$
aspects$have$been$stagnant$for$a$very$long$time,$leaving$a$perception$in$
the$market$that$a$straw$picture$is$a$cheap$substitute$for$a$painting.$The$
materials$have$not$changed$in$a$long$time$such$as$the$fabric$and$board,$
nor$kept$in$tune$with$customer$appreciation$of$art.$Hence$issues$of$low$
costing$and$accordingly$low$pricing$have$forced$people$to$drop$out.$
&
Remedial&Measures:&
Branding,&visibility&and&market&communication:&
Branding$$and$promotion$need$to$be$done$for$the$straw$picture$as$an$art$
form.$It$may$be$necessary$to$stop$calling$it$‘straw$picture’$and$change$the$
name$to$something$more$evocative,$authentic$and$unique$to$Kerala.$
Emphasizing$the$eco$friendly$and$original$USPs$of$the$craft$in$
communication$is$necessary.$Umbrella$branding$in$the$form$of$write$ups,$
tags$and$logo$design$can$go$a$long$way.$&
Detailed&Documentation&and&Website&Publication:&need$to$be$created$
for$value$addition$and$authentication.$CertiMications$like$craftSmark$will$
also$help.$
$
Display&&&Marketing&Interface&Limitations:&&
Home$based$units$are$not$an$effective$marketing$platform$to$reach$high$
paying$customers.$Hence$a$separate$resource$center,$centrally$located$in$
Kollam$will$help$where$individuals$can$demonstrate$the$craft$to$tourists/
visitors.$
PoP$display$systems$for$attractive$presentation$are$needed$at$the$units.$

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
36&
Product&Design&&&Redesign:&&
•  The$fabric$base$needs$to$be$diversiMied$for$better$appeal$(in$terms$of$
colour$and$texture).$
•  The$waste$pieces$can$be$recycled$to$make$small$products$that$are$highly$
valuable$as$intricate$paintings$such$as$Pattachitra.)
•  Rollable$wall$hangings$can$be$tried$with$the$necessary$experimentation$
and$research.$
•  Many$master$artists$have$already$made$high$value$murals$successfully$$
for$commercial$establishments.$A$concentrated$effort$to$promote$this$
wall$art$and$specially$commissioned$pieces$will$improve$products$as$
well$as$its$visibility.$$
•  Framing$the$work$increases$the$perceived$value$of$it$manifold.$Special,$
lightweight$&$cost$effective$frames$need$to$be$redesigned$for$
showcasing$the$work$as$well$as$easy$transport.$Presently$there$is$no$
suitable$frame$for$this$in$the$market.$$
&
Environmental&Issues:&
Humidity$slows$down$drying$time$and$production$during$the$long$
monsoon$season$for$4$months$and$also$potentially$damages$the$product$
through$warping.$Use$of$special$dryers$need$to$be$explored.$AntiSmoisture$
agents$like$silica$gel$can$be$used$in$the$storage$cupboards.$
$
Ergonomics&and&workstation:&&
Need$to$be$studied$as$the$work$demands$long$hours$of$bending$over$
intricate$patterns.$$
$
Centralized&facility&for&Some&machinery:&such$as$the$cutting$machines$
for$which$they$do$not$have$to$depend$on$a$printing$press.$
$
Pro9itability&and&Financial&viability&will$improve$if$the$above$measures$
are$taken.$$
&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
37&
Kollam'Straw'Picture'''
Step'by'Step'Process'&''Interven-on'Mapping'

Diversifying&Mediums&–&fabric,&board&
Raw&materials& Collec;ve&purchase&of&Straw&in&season&for&cost&effec;veness&
Medium&of&Work& Combina;on&with&other&natural&fibres&
Natural&Dyes&use&&

Ergonomic&worksta;on;&R&&&D&for&posture,&ligh;ng&etc.,&&
Produc;on&Envt&&&& Dryer&for&rainy&season&
Practces& Centralized&board&cusng&machine&to&save&costs&&&;me&
An;[moisture&agents&like&silica&gel&&
&
&&

Skill&Up[grada;on&for&ar;s;c&work&rather&than&basic&work.&
Skills&and&Training& Ability&to&make&large&and&small&sizes&for&various&applica;ons&
Longer&dura;on&training&up&to&1&year&rather&than&3&months&
Training&for&marke;ng&and&selling.&&
&
&&

Development&of&interiors&art,&murals&as&commissioned&art&
Design&&&Product& Special&frames,&base&fabrics,&packaging&for&value&addi;on&
Development& Recycling&cutaway&pieces&of&board,&fabric&to&reduce&wastage&
R&&&D&for&tourist&oriented&products&
&
&
&&

Brand&development,&Logo&and&communica;on&website&
Marke;ng& Cer;fica;on&of&craO&authen;city&
Strategies&&&Tools& Common&Resource&Center&in&Kollam&for&marke;ng&
PoP&display&systems&for&unit&level&presenta;on.&
&
&
&
&
&
&&
Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
38&
Screw'Pine'Industry''
History:$The$Village$Thazhava$in$Karunagapally$is$an$important$$
screw$pine$weaving$cluster$for$its$inherent$skills$and$a$well$earned$
USP$from$generations.$The$name$Thazhava$itself$originates$from$the$
Malayalam$name$for$the$screw$pine$plant$Thazha.)The$traditional$
product$is$a$one$person$size$sleeping$mat$which$has$two$soft$layers$
of$screw$pine$mats$bound$together$by$a$special$stitch.$$
)
This$is$a$traditional$craft$practiced$here$with$about$100$families$$
engaged$in$it$at$some$point.$Over$the$last$15$years,$The$traditional$
craft$has$beneMited$from$several$Govt.$intervention$programmes$
through$NGOs$(such$as$KRDA),$business$development$with$private$
sources$$and$innovative$product$development$for$urban$markets$
with$designers.$For$a$detailed$summary$of$production$process,$see$
pages.....$$$
$
However,$at$the$time$of$this$Need$Assessment$Study,$$the$micro$
industry$is$found$to$be$in$a$state$of$crisis$and$no$longer$provides$a$$
viable$livelihood$for$its$practitioners.$$
$
After$a$detailed$interaction$with$the$various$units,$various$reasons$
were$found$to$have$caused$its$rapid$decline$over$the$last$5$years.$
This$is$of$considerable$concern$to$many$associated$with$the$industry.$

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
39&
Loss&of&market&Linkages:&Finely$woven,$colourful,$double$layered$
mats$from$the$village$were$systematically$developed$by$designers$
and$retailers$over$a$decade$and$adorned$the$shelves$of$shops$like$
Fabindia.$NGOs$brought$in$much$intervention$and$grassroots$groups$
as$well$as$entrepreneurs$handled$production.$However,$the$market$
linkages$weakened&since$2010$and$as$Bhavana$Handicrafts$members$
put$it$“our$income$has$halved$in$accordance$with$the$$low$demand’.$
The$only$regular$buyers$now$are$the$traders$who$supply$traditonal$
mats$to$old$buyers$through$their$trade$contacts.$On$the$other$hand,$
the$Vaikom$units,$with$strong$institutional$(NGO)$support$managed$
to$do$well$in$this$last$few$years.$
Dwindling&raw&material&base:&The$screw$pine$plant$is$being$cut$off$
rapidly$from$the$villages$as$people$seek$to$build$compound$walls$
instead.$The$Govt.$sponsored$rural$employment$programme$too$
targets$the$thorny$screw$pine$plant$in$an$attempt$to$clean$up$the$
local$area.$$KSID$for$its$part$has$made$a$positive$effort:$testing$a$plant$
of$screw$pine$from$the$far$east$without$thorns$and$a$new$training$
program$near$Thazhava$to$enroll$more$weavers$into$the$craft.$These$
two$efforts$are$the$Mirst$step$and$a$comprehensive$integration$of$raw$
material$and$market$linkages$still$have$to$be$addressed$on$their$own$
terms.$They$do$not$have$any$tangible$issues$$with$production$to$
remedy$but$the$artisans$need$a$platform$to$speak$out$and$be$heard.$$$

Thorn[less&screw&pine&could&be&a&boon&but&the& Typical&posture&of&a&
propaga;on&technology&s;ll&needs&to&be&figured&out.&&& weaver.&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
40&
'Screw'Pine'Units'Study''

The&once&exemplary&craO&of&Thazhava&
screw&pine&weaving&is&now&in&a&
languishing&state.&Women&at&the&
defunct&craO&unit.&
Below:&weaving&at&home.&

Name&of&Unit:&Bhavana$Handicraft$Society.$
Unit&Description:&15&Women$from$Thazhava$for$whom$this$is$traditional$
occupation$formed$a$group$together$with$DWCRA$assistance$in$1997.$$$$
Employee&Strength:$In$the$past$15$involved$in$full$time$production$but$
presently$none.$$
Turn&over:&NA$
Interventions:$Through$KRDA$(local$NGO)$S$design$workshops$&$Orders$
from$Fabindia$till$2010.$Volume$of$orders:$1500$table$mats$and$100$Miles/
folders$per$month.$

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
41&
Present&Status:&Since$2010,$no$bulk$orders$as$the$support$agency$
which$was$the$main$link$between$market$and$society$folded$up.$$
Secondly,$the$main$NGO$$withdrew$from$craft$industry$even$after$
availing$of$all$the$DC(H)$inputs$for$the$purpose$of$making$it$
sustainable.$As$the$women$lack$the$capacity$to$work$directly$with$the$
outside$market,$after$this$double$crisis$they$went$back$to$the$
traditional$work$of$weaving$mats$for$local$traders$and$also$took$up$
unskilled$wages$work$through$NRGEA.$Their$incomes$have$less$than$
half$now.$$
&
Infrastructure&for&Production:&Unit$building$in$the$village$is$now$not$
utilized.$$
They$are$also$facing$raw$material$issues$locally$with$the$felling$of$the$
screw$pine$plant$under$the$NRGEA$programme$to$clean$up$the$village.$
&
Recommendations&to&stimulate&the&micro&industry:$
•  Proper$institutional$arrangement$for$market$linkages.$
•  Capacity$building$within$the$group$for$liaison$with$lucrative$metro$
markets.$
•  Follow$up$with$Kerala$emporia$buyers’$enquiries$such$as$Kairali$and$
Surabhi$to$stimulate$production$and$market$demand.$
•  Value$addition$through$tie/dye$and$suitable$diversiMication.$
•  Collaboration$with$the$Panchayat$authorities$to$take$steps$to$
regenerate$screw$pine$plant$in$the$locality$instead$of$cutting$it$
down.$
•  Comprehensive$training$in$managerial$skills$to$liaise$with$markets.$$
$$
$ Screw&pine&craO&training&programme&near&
$ Thazhava&organized&by&KSID&with&the&help&&
of&Thazhava&master&craOswomen.&&
There&is&a&possibility&to&form&a&collec;ve&
group&of&veteran&and&new&ar;sans&to&set&up&
ins;tu;onal&arrangements&to&revive&the&
ailing&&industry&and&to&increase&the&
livelihood&opportuni;es&at&the&local&level.&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
42&
Screw&pine&products&on&
display&at&KRDA&office&and&
the&documenta;on&of&screw&
pine&craO&by&KRDA&in&2009.&

Name&of&Support&NGO:&KRDA$Kerala$Rural$Development$Agency,$
Karunagappally,$near$Thazhava$
KRDA,$a$once$major$support$agency$for$screw$pine$craft$is$now$not$
involved$anymore$in$the$craft$activities,$having$changed$their$focus$to$
other$areas$like$HIV$/AIDS$and$healthcare.$KRDA$has$extensively$
documented$screw$pine$craft$and$its$prospects$(above$right)$in$an$
exhaustive$document$in$2009.$$

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
43&
Screw&pine&mats&constructed&into&
boxes&at&Ambadi&codage.&

Name&of&Unit:&Ambadi$Cottage$Industries,$Thazhava$Village,$Kollam$dist.$
Unit&Description:&Functioning$since$15$years.$$
Nature&of&work:&Screw$pine$producer.&Proprietorship$Mirm$(local).$
Owner:$Mr.Krishna$Kumar.$
Infrastructure:&Around$700$sq$ft$space$in$a$separate$building$behind$
owner’s$home.$$No$power$tools.$Only$handStools$for$stitching$screw$pine.$$$
Employee&Strength:$10$to$15$depending$on$orders.$
Turn&over:&Used$to$be$around$10$lakhs$now$dropped$1$lakh.$Reason:$not$
very$actively$involved$in$marketing$of$recent$for$health$reasons$but$now$
picking$up.$
Product&Range:&Boxes,$Table$mats$and$bags$

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
44&
Design&Opportunity& Remarks'

Market&related&aspects& Communica;on:&
& Comprehensive&product&catalogue&&&website&needed.&
Effec;ve&Branding&&&Cer;fica;on.&
&
Market&study:&
Suppliers&to&exporters&and&retailers&in&Kerala&ci;es.&
Lower&margins&but&regular&orders&hence&a&low&risk&model.&
&
Infrastructure[related&aspects& Good&road&and&rail&connec;vity&exist.&
& Large&facility&but&beder&shelves&for&storage&of&raw&
material&and&finished&goods.&
Humidity&protec;on&needed.&
Produc;on&related&aspects& Dyeing&related&aspects&like&;e/dye&and&azo&free&dyes&as&an&
& alterna;ve&to&basic&dyes.&&
& Chosen&to&concentrate&on&natural&colour&of&screw&pine&
& instead&of&dyeing&according&to&recent&market&demand.&
Tooling&/&worksta;on& All&the&work&happens&on&the&floor&[&issues&need&to&be&
studied&if&any.&
Environmental&Aspects& High&humidity&&for&3&[&4&months&during&monsoon&is&an&
& issue.&Fungus&problem&occur.&
&
Training,&Skill&up[grada;on& Low&use&of&tailoring&skills;&mostly&hand&s;tching;&this&is&
&&capacity&building& slower&but&beder.&&
Local&market&for&mats&has&to&be&explored&through&suitable&
products.&
More&networking&needed&to&rejuvenate&the&industry.&
Display&of&Products&&&& No&separate&display&unit.&Finished&goods&stored&at&home&
Safe&Storage& and&materials&on&floor&in&back&rooms.&
Packing&&&Logis;cs& Plas;c&paper&wrapping&and&packing&in&cartons&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
45&
Screw'pine'–'Kollam'Cluster'''
Step'by'Step'Process'&'Scope'for'Revival'

Scien;fic&propaga;on&of&plant&for&&beder&manufacturability&
Raw&material&[& Stepping&up&cul;va;on&of&plant&locally&with&Panchayat&help&
Screw&pine& Promo;on&of&plant&as&eco[resource&among&neighbourhood&
Aim&to&double&plant&availability&in&5&years&

Ergonomic&worksta;on;&R&&&D&for&posture,&ligh;ng&etc.,&&
Produc;on&Envt&&&& Reclaim&larger&produc;on&facili;es&made&available&by&Govt.&
Prac;ces& An;&fungal&treatment&for&longer&storage&
&&
&
&&

Skill&Up[grada;on&for&beder&product&conversion&by&sewing&
Skills&and&Training& Standardiza;on&of&Dyeing&methods,&natural&dyes&&&azofree&
SoO&skills&training&for&weavers&in&selling&&&market&liaison&
Mobiliza;on&to&demand&ins;tu;onal∾on&&&commitment.&&
&&

Design&&&Product& Value&addi;on&through&;e/dye,&natural&dye&&&azo&free&dyes&
Development& R&&&D&for&diverse&markets&towards&stable&market&demand&
&
&
&
&
&
&&Brand&development,&Logo&and&communica;on&website&
Marke;ng& Cer;fica;on&of&craO&authen;city&
Strategies&&&Tools& Linking&the&lost&markets&back&to&producer&
Inclusion&of&grassroots&producer&in&marke;ng&directly&
&
&
&
&
&
&&
Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
46&
Alleppey'Cluster''
Alappuzha$is$the$tourist$center$of$Kerala$(God’s$own$country)$with$
picturesque$backwaters,$canals$and$the$sea$also$described$as$the$‘Venice$of$
the$east’$on$account$of$the$web$of$water$bodies.$It$has$six$Taluks$with$
Alappuzha$town$as$the$district$headquarters.$$$
Location:&In$central$Kerala,$situated$about$40$km$north$of$the$Ernakulam$
city.$The$whole$district$has$excellent$rail,$road$as$well$as$water$ways$
connectivity$to$the$rest$of$the$state.$
Climate:&Tropical.$Hottest$months$are$March$&$April$ranging$about$270C$
with$a$very$high$level$of$humidity.$Alleppy$also$experiences$the$longest$
monsoon$season$–$from$June$to$November.$
Natural&Resources:&Fishing,$agriculture$(regions$of$Alleppy$are$known$as$
the$rice$bowl$of$Kerala)$and$coir$manufacture$are$the$major$employers.$$
Demography:&Total&Population$as$of$2011$census$is:$21,21,943.$Alleppy$
district$has$among$the$highest$literacy$rates$in$the$state$of$93%.$Its$sex$ratio$
is$also$among$the$highest$in$the$state.$$$$
Local&Industries:&&
Agriculture:$Major$crops$are$–$rice,$coconut$and$sugarcane$though$much$of$
the$district$is$sandy$with$low$yield.$$
Fishing$is$a$very$important$economic$activity$with$about$40%$of$the$state’s$
Mishermen$are$estimated$to$be$in$this$district.$$
Coir&processing:&&Alleppy$is$the$backbone$of$the$coir$industry$in$Kerala.$
There$are$nearly$7000$units$involved$in$coir$manufacturing$for$export.$
However,$the$coir$processing$remains$very$labour$intensive$and$has$
recently$been$given$the$GI$mark.$
Other$natural$Mibres$include$Jute,$Koragrass$and$a$range$of$Mibres$imported$
by$the$coir$industries$to$combine$with$coir$products.$$$
Low&on&industrial&development,&Alleppy’s&main$industrial$output$are$
glass$and$foundry$sand$mined$along$the$Vembanaad$lake$shores$with$which$
sand$lime$bricks$are$manufactured.$$
Tourism:&With$several$resorts,$waterways,$beaches,$natural$beauty,$
traditional$Ayurvedic$centers,$Alleppy$has$emerged$as$Kerala’s$premier$
tourism$destination.$The$absence$of$strong$industries$has$also$contributed$
to$the$focus$n$tourism.$$

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
47&
Units'Study'
The$Vishwa$Gaji$Madom$or$VGM$near$Alleppy$is$an$enterprising$
organization$working$with$a$range$of$unconventional$Mibres$for$the$
region.$As$part$of$the$Sivagiri$Madom$to$spread$the$teachings$of$
Shri.Narayana$Guru,$VGM$ventured$to$help$the$local$community$of$
women$to$train$in$production$and$business$skills$through$an$AHVY$
project$implemented$by$ICF,$Bangalore$(1999).$VGM$subsequently$
established$a$stable$demand$for$its$products$through$Fabindia.$The$
production$facility$is$large,$can$house$up$to$100$people,$though$much$
of$it$home$based$to$allow$Mlexi$timings$for$the$women.$$Here$are$some$
of$the$Mibres$from$the$VGM$natural$Mibre$gallery:$$$$

Banana&Bark& Orissa&grass&or&sea&grass&yarn&
Korai&grass&Yarn&(below)&& Sisal&fibre&from&yarn&(below)&
&

Banana&Stem&fibre&

Except&for&Korai&grass&yarn,&all&the&other&fibres&are&bought&
from&outside&through&varied&sources.&The&coir&industries&&
Braided&jute& of&Alleppy&import&jute&from&Calcuda&and&sisal&from&abroad,&
the&surplus&of&which&VGM&buys&for&handicraO&work.&&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
48&
Production&Process:&
However$varied$the$Mibres$are,$two$main$methods$of$production$are$
followed:$hand$stitching$and$handSwinding$the$Mibre$on$a$frame.$As$
most$of$the$material$comes$as$yarn$or$braid,$these$two$techniques$
are$quick$for$conversion.$VGM$has$a$multitude$of$metal$frames$in$
different$sizes$and$shapes$suitable$for$baskets/bins.$

Bark&split&into&pith&and&the&smooth&outer&skin&used&&in&weaving,& Star;ng&with&a&bunch&of&fibres&;ed&&
then&hand&torn&into&required&widths.&& on&a&bucket&like&frame&

Twis;ng&&&coiling&the&bark&radially&
with&the&shiny&part&is&outside.&
LeO:&Finishing&the&top&rim&with&the&
help&of&a&needle.&

The&finished&basket&removed&from&the&frame.&&
Depending&on&the&fibres&combined&in&the&lines,&the&texture&
and&rigidity&vary.&LeO:&Banana&bark&and&coir&yarn&combo.&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
49&
Hand&stitching&&9lat&shapes&–&Round&mat&of&4&ft&diameter.&&
Material:&Machine&Braided&Jute&from&Calcutta.&

Braided&jute&is&rolled&into&rounds&to&begin&the&mat.2”long&needles&mounted&on&apiece&of&wood&are&
inserted&radially&to&hold&the&round&in&place.&Jute&yarn&used&for&s;tching.&&&

As&the&mat&grows&in&width,&one&of&the&issues&is&surface&warping&due&to&
uneven&tension&in&hand[s;tching.&Mending&on&the&reverse&side,&pressing&&
with&body&weight&are&adempted&to&fladen&the&mat.&The&remedy&here&
could&be&to&use&a&weighted&press&on&which&mats&can&be&leO&for&a&&
few&hours&to&become&flat.&&&&

Simple&hand&tools&used.&&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
50&
Product&Range:&&
VGM’s$range$of$products$at$any$given$time$depend$entirely$on$the$
buyers$requirement.$They$develop$samples$in$house$often$by$
combining$all$kinds$of$natural$Mibres.$Present$range$includes$door$
mats,$place$mats,$trays,$baskets,$bins$and$large$rugs$from$jute,$
banana,$coir$and$korai$yarns$/$braids.$The$frame$method$gives$them$
the$Mlexibility$to$introduce$several$Mibres$in$one$product.$

The&trays&have&wire&frames&
for&support.&This&creates&
issue&of&rus;ng&some;mes&
due&to&extreme&humidity&of&
Kerala.&Locally&available&
cane&can&be&used&to&make&
these&frames&which&also&
adds&to&the&eco[appeal.&&

Above:&A&colour&combina;on& Fungus&adacked&banana&fibre&
gone&haywire&though&the& mat.&Knowledge&of&some&
The&crea;vity&of&the&ar;sans& structure&is&good.&Some&colour& an;[fungal&treatment&would&
to&make&new&structures&is&a& guidance&necessary&during& be&useful&&
posi;ve&aspect.&& workshops.&&
&&&
Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
51&
VGM&Produc;on&center&cum&Common&facility&
center&built&with&their&own&resources.&Large&2000&
sq.O&facility&when&the&produc;on&needs&
centralized&supervision.&Below:&Fibre&storage&
inside&the&unit.&Because&of&the&vast&variety&of&
fibre&stocked,&VGM&oOen&needs&to&sort&out.&

Cleaning&the&storage&of&unused,&spoilt&fibres&
before&discarding&them.&&Dust&and&fungus&are&an&
issue&in&Kerala&weather.&

Work&sta;on&at&the&VGM&unit.&&

Top:&Kora&grass&handmade&yarn&spun&at&
homestead&of&an&old&lady&in&her&kitchen.&&She&
claims&it&is&more&efficient&than&the&Rad&wheel&
spinning&about&300&meters&of&yarn&in&a&single&
day.&Right:&The&display&case&of&VGM&unit.&&&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
52&
Design&Opportunity& Remarks'

Market&related&aspects& Communica;on:&
& Comprehensive&product&catalogue&&&website&needed.&
Effec;ve&Branding&&&Cer;fica;on.&
&
Market&study:&
Suppliers&to&FabIndia.&(About&60%&produc;on).The&rest&
goes&to&local&exhibi;ons&and&smaller&orders&from&local&
resorts.&
With&their&produc;on&and&networking&capability,&they&
need&to&diversify&buyers&in&order&to&tap&into&full&
produc;vity&and&to&increase&employability.&&
Infrastructure&related&aspects& Good&road&and&rail&connec;vity&exist.&
& Well&func;oning&Common&Facility&Center&but&needs&to&
improve&layouts&&&no&of&worksta;ons&for&effec;ve&
produc;on&output.&
No&proper&arrangement&for&display&or&sale&of&products.&
Central&dyeing&facility&can&be&created.&
To&fladen&the&mats,&should&go&for&weighted&press.&&
Beder&shelving&for&storage&of&raw&material.&
Display&system&is&func;onal&but&needs&to&be&updated.&
Produc;on&related&aspects& Mul;ple&experimenta;on&with&fibres&needs&to&be&properly&
documented&to&repeat&texture&and&improve&regular&
manufacturability.&Presently&they&are&made&from&memory&
every&;me.&
Dyeing&related&aspects&like&;e/dye&and&azo&free&dyes&as&an&
alterna;ve&to&basic&dyes.&&
&
Environmental&Aspects& High&humidity&&for&3&[4&months&during&monsoon&is&an&
& issue.&Fungus&problem&occur.&
Ergonomics&related& Dust&and&allergy&issues&possible&from&natural&fibres&should&
& be&into.&
Training,&Skill&up[grada;on& Guided&study&of&buyer&requirement&to&increase&capacity&of&
&&capacity&building& the&producer&to&create&/update&suitable&products.&
Taking&advantage&of&regular&buyers&like&Fabinida,&the&unit&
needs&to&develop&new&samples&proac;vely&in&a&seasonal&
fashion&for&regular&orders.&Presently&many&delays&in&
sampling&cause&stagna;on&in&produc;on.&&
Yarn&making&is&an&exis;ng&skill&base.&Mixed&yarns&in&
natural&fibres&can&be&a&good&addi;on.&&&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
53&
Screw'pine'craB'
Botanical&name:&Pandanus.&
This$has$a$large$family$of$about$600$known$species,$native$to$sub$tropical$
regions.$The$plant$is$tall$with$long$leaves$(about$2$meters)$edged$with$sharp$
thorns.$It$has$been$used$as$a$hedge$plant$to$ward$off$intruders$and$animals$
around$rural$houses.$All$of$South$East$Asia$uses$the$Mibres$for$loom$weaving$
&$matting.$The$ecological$advantage$of$the$plant$is$that$it$is$an$excellent$
protector$for$the$sandy$soil$in$the$coastal$areas$against$the$wind.$It$thrives$in$
the$saline$environment$closest$to$the$sea.$$The$young$leaves$are$harvested$
for$Mibre$use$perennially.$In$Kerala,$a$distinction$is$made$between$the$Mibres$
of$male$and$female$plants,$male$being$stronger$than$the$female$Mibre$and$less$
conducive$to$Mine$workmanship.$Mat$from$the$female$Mibre$is$softer,$more$
pliable$and$delicate.$While$Kottayam$and$the$northern$areas$use$more$of$the$
'male$Mibre$for$everyday$mats’,$Thazhava$near$Kollam$is$famous$for$the$two$
layered$mat$from$the$female$plant.$Infact,$the$village$derives$its$very$name$
from$the$screw$pine$Mibre,$knows$as$Thazha$in$Malayalam.$$&

Extrac-on:'
The&harvested&leaf&is&about&2&meters&long,&has&;ny&thorns&on&its&
sides&and&along&the&central&spine.&With&the&help&of&a&knife,&
thorns&are&trimmed&off,&the&leaf&is&split&into&longitudinal&strands&
of&roughly&3&cm&width.&Mul;ple&leaves&are&rolled&into&disc[like&
bundles&and&dried&in&the&sun&un;l&green&colour&turns&beige&and&
stored&for&future&use.&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
54&
The$traditional$double$layered$Thazhava$mat$is$called$‘methapai’)still$
sells$as$a$premium$product.$$The$single$layered$coarse$mat$made$
from$the$male$plant$was$traditionally$used$for$drying$grains$&$food.$$
The$recent$design$interventions$have$focused$on$the$sturdy$male$
mats$that$can$be$made$quicker,$constructed$into$better$shapes$and$
lasts$better$for$home$furnishing$such$as$cushions$and$table$mats.$&
There$is$no$particular$community$that$has$exclusive$rights$or$skills$
over$this$craft$as$rural$Malayali$women$of$all$walks$of$life,$caste$and$
religion$take$pride$in$weave$the$mats;$it$is$in$a$way$a$social$leveller!$

Production&&Process:&&
&

Screw&pine&fibre&when&unrolled&needs&to&
be&straightened&before&weaving.&
Alterna;vely&a&powered&roller&is&used&
here&by&a&very&well[equipped&unit&
though&the&hand&method&is&more&
common.&

Splicing&Tool:&the&strand&is&split&on&a&
tool&mounted&with&mul;ple&blades.&
This&inexpensive&contrap;on&is&a&
recent&innova;on&that&has&reduced&
the&;me&taken&to&slit&the&fibre&
lengthwise&with&a&pen&knife&in&the&old&
way.&The&gaps&between&the&blades&can&
be&adjusted&easily&for&required&widths.&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
55&
Dyeing&Process:&&
The$Mibre$strands$are$dyed$before$weaving.$Small$quantities$are$dyed$
by$boiling$(Basic)$dye$powders$with$Mibre$in$the$pot$for$about$half$an$
hour$or$less.$This$is$an$opportunity$area$as$the$units$which$follow$
standardized$measurements$and$weights$get$more$consistent$results$
and$can$take$up$orders$for$100s$of$mats.$But$many$units,$however,$do$
not$wish$to$train$in$this$system$hence$have$an$issue$working$with$
bulk$buyers.$Only$one$unit$has$invested$in$equipment$to$dye$large$
quantities$up$to$30$kg.$$$

The&gas&boiler&below&is&the&size&of&a&
bath&tub,&meant&to&hold&about&30&kilos&
of&fibre.&The&unit&tried&to&use&it&a&few&
;mes&but&found&it&very&difficult&to&turn&
the&fibre&while&boiling&and&hence&had&
to&hire&male&labour.&They&have&gone&
back&to&using&vessels,&fire&wood&and&
dyeing&small&batches&of&3&kg.&This&dye&
bath&can&be&beder&designed&for&
appropriate&sizes&&&accessories.&&
The&dye&materials&too&can&
be&explored&to&include&
tradi;onal&natural&dyes&
once&famous&in&screw&pine&
mats&(such&as&&
Sappan&wood)&for&value&
addi;on.&Humidity&affects&
the&fibre&some;mes&as&it&
rains&heavily&in&Kerala.&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
56&
Weaving&begins&from&a&corner&
and&progresses&diagonally;&always&
done&on&the&floor&with&the&mat&
under&the&feet.&&A&large&number&
of&design&varia;ons&have&been&
introduced&in&recent&;mes.&Also&
seen&below&is&a&document&of&
explora;ons&by&design&students.&
Weaving&Process&&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
57&
Finishing&and&Construction:&&
The$woven$mat$has$raw$edges$that$need$to$be$folded$in$and$sealed$
for$utility$as$table$mats/$Mloor$mats.$Kerala$screw$pine$craft$is$
distinct$for$its$hand$sewn$edges,$resembling$a$3$strand$braid$add$
aesthetic$appeal$and$great$commercial$value$to$the$mat.$For$simple$
Mlat$construction$$such$as$Mile$folders.,$the$same$stitch,$is$used.$A$thin$
strand$of$screw$pine$is$used$as$thread.$$

Simple&hand&tools&are&only&needed&for&this&hand&
finishing&as&above&along&with&template&cut&from&board&
and&aluminum&sheets.&One&of&the&issues&here&is&the&
edges&warping/&curling&in&either&due&to&the&tension&of&
s;tching&or&storage.&Jawahar&unit&has&resolved&this&&
issue&by&the&use&of&a&weighted&press&specially&assembled&
for&fladening&batches&of&table&&mats.&This&can&be&
emulated&by&other&units&for&beder&quality.&&&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
58&
Construction&into&shapes:&&
Rigid$boxes$are$made$by$supporting$backing$the$mat$with$board$and$
lining$with$fabric.$The$edges$are$then$sewn$with$the$decorative$
stitch.$Tailoring$machine$is$also$used$occasionally$to$hold$the$layers$
of$fabric,$mat$and$board$together.$The$female$screw$pine$mat$is$
easier$to$stitch$than$the$male$counterpart.$

While&hand&construc;on&works&for&
basic&square&and&round&shapes,&
complex&corners&such&the&one&on&the&&
leO,&can&end&up&looking&un;dy.&
Different&fabrics&can&be&tried&too.&
Complete&&construc;on&by&tailoring&is&
not&yet&desirable&even&though&design&
workshops&have&adempted&it.&Low&
skilled&tailoring&of&zippers,&lining&etc.,&
have&the&effect&of&bringing&down&the&
appeal&of&a&well&woven&mat.&Skill&up&
grada;on&is&necessary&in&basic&
tailoring.&The&fabric&chosen&for&piping,&
lining&etc.,&is&also&problema;c,&
contribu;ng&to&the&tacky&look.&&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
59&
Popular&Product&Range:&&
Traditional$utility$mats:$3ft$X$6ft$
Double$and$single$layered$table$mats:$18”X$12”,$Runners:$12”$X$3$to$4ft$long$
Boxes$of$various$sizes$and$shapes$
Shopping$Bags$with$fabric$lining$$
$

12”ht&shopping&bags&and&a&bin&made&
of&braided&screw&pine&(Fabindia&item)&

Some&unusual&compartment&boxes&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
60&
Product&Development:&Robust&vs&Flaky&approaches:&&
The$screw$pine$industry$of$Kerala$has$seen$a$tremendous$amount$of$
design$inputs$from$govt.$programs$like$AHVY$design$workshops$as$well$as$
buyers.$The$artisans$themselves$have$developed$new$things$to$attract$
buyers$in$local$&$metro$exhibitions.$It$is$interesting$to$see$the$contrast$
between$the$design$approaches$in$these$different$$contexts$and$what$they$
give$rise$to.$
Ar;san[developed&basket&design&by&flat&
weaving&the&mat&with&corners&to&grow&
in&height.&This&is&a&revived&old&product,&
re[created&for&temple&use&as&a&container&
to&ferry&hot&cooked&rice,&prasad&etc.,&in&
large&quan;;es.&Ht&&&dia&about&3O.&
With&a&regular&quan;ty&of&a&few&
hundreds&per&month,&this&serious&u;lity&
product&can&keep&many&women&
employed,&stands&tes;mony&to&the&
strength&&&food&grade&quality&of&male&
screw&pine.&&&&

On&the&other&hand,&the&typical&design&workshop&with&
external&designer&seems&to&generate&many&small,&decora;ve&
items&such&as&these,&in&the&belief&that&it&expands&the&product&
range&for&beder&marketability.&In&reality,&they&are&clumsy,&
hard&to&produce&because&of&the&detailing&in&addi;on&to&
was;ng&the&precious&;me&&&resources&of&the&workshop&
meant&to&address&real&design&needs.&There&seems&to&be&an&
inherent&reluctance&to&build&on&simple&products&and&local&
market&needs&from&designers,∥cipants&and&support&
agencies.&There&are&plenty&of&locally&relevant&products&like&
Namaz&mats,&customized&file/folders&for&which&a&certain&
amount&of&research&&&development&can&be&undertaken.&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
61&
Vaikom&Cluster&units:&
LeO:&Jawarlal&Memorial&Social&Welfare&Center&&&
Jaihind&screw&pine&HandicraO&federa;on.&&
Below:&Kodayam&Jilla&mahila&Samajam.&&&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
62&
Name$of$Unit:$Jawahar$Memorial$Social$welfare$&$Public$CoSoperation$Society$
Employee$Strength:$75$in$screw$pine$$
Turn$over:$5$lakhs$
Interventions:$5$design$workshops$and$5$skill$development$workshops$

Design&Opportunity& Remarks'

Market&related&aspects& Communica;on:&
& Comprehensive&product&catalogue&&&website&needed.&
Effec;ve&Branding&&&Cer;fica;on.&
&
Market&study:&
Suppliers&to&FabIndia.&(About&50%&produc;on).The&rest&
goes&to&local&exhibi;ons&and&smaller&orders.&&
With&their&produc;on&and&networking&capability,&they&
need&to&diversify&buyers&in&order&to&tap&into&full&
produc;vity&and&to&increase&employability.&&
Infrastructure&related&aspects& Good&road&and&rail&connec;vity&exist.&
& Well&func;oning&Common&Facility&Center&with&a&many&
custom&made&powered&equipment,&provided&to&cope&with&
large&produc;on&orders.&Underu;lized&in&present&scenario&
of&low&orders.&&
Though&there&is&a&central&office,&no&proper&arrangement&
for&display&or&sale&of&products.&&
Beder&shelving&for&storage&of&raw&material.&
Produc;on&related&aspects& The&unit&has&many&best&prac;ces&in&produc;on.&Others&
& can&learn&from&their&experience.&&
& Dyeing&related&aspects&like&;e/dye&and&azo&free&dyes&as&an&
& alterna;ve&to&basic&dyes.&&
Tooling&/&worksta;on& Large&dye&bath&can&be&modified&to&become&more&suitable&
for&women&handling&it.&
Environmental&Aspects& High&humidity&&for&3&[&4&months&during&monsoon&is&an&
& issue.&Fungus&problem&occur&but&have&devised&own&an;[
& fungal&treatment.&
Training,&Skill&up[grada;on& Guided&study&of&buyer&requirement&to&increase&capacity&of&
&&capacity&building& the&producer&to&create&/update&suitable&products.&
Tailoring&skills&nned&to&improve&for&beder&product&
conversion.&
Local&market&for&mats&has&to&be&explored&through&suitable&
products.&
Design&workshops&have&to&beder&informed&by&needs.&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
63&
Analysis'of'Issues'&'Opportuni-es'
Capacity&Of&Cluster:&Employability$potential$is$high.$Natural$Mibres$industry$
requires$low$capital$investment$considering$the$returns$in$terms$of$revenue$&$
local$employment$generation$for$women.$Raw$materials$are$ecoSfriendly.$$
Committed$NGOs$are$working$with$the$producers$who$are$already$organized$
into$self$help$groups.$The$small,$narrow$strip$of$land$of$Alleppey$cluster$does$
not$have$too$many$industrial$opportunities$which$makes$handicrafts$a$good$
option$for$the$high$female$population.$The$fact$that$these$units$have$been$able$
to$attract$nonStraditional$artisans$is$testimony$to$the$cluster’s$higher$potential$
of$craft$as$a$micro$industry.$Alleppey$cluster$does$see$the$biggest$chunk$of$
tourist$in$the$state.$Tourism$can$also$be$coSopted$to$increase$brand$value$&$
visibility&just$as$it$happens$in$Rajasthan$and$Kashmir.$$
$
Drawbacks&of&the&Cluster:&Due$to$lower$demand$in$orders,$each$unit$reports$
to$using$only$about$15$to$20%$of$trained$(wo)manpower$in$production.$This$
creates$an$issue$of$proMitability$and$employee$morale.$Though$the$market$for$
natural$Mibre$has$increased$twofold$in$the$last$5$years,$as$they$can$see$from$
exhibitions$in$metros$and$individual$enquiries,$the$mechanism$to$translate$this$
perceived$demand$into$real$orders$is$a$problem.$
&
Remedial&Measures:&
R&&&D&process&for&Diversi9ication&of&Markets:&This$process$starts$with$
actually$meeting$different$buyers$and$not$by$designing$a$new$product$in$
isolation.$Design$workshops$should$become$an$opportunity$for$this$but$instead$
it’s$a$just$a$topSdown$dictated$event$to$add$to$the$useless$design$repertoire$
done$to$please$the$sponsoring$agency.$There$is$a$need$for$a$localized,$
participatory$design$development$framework$which$has$R/D$incorporated$so$
that$local$demand,$tourism$related$in$particular$can$be$understood.$$
&
Brand&value&and&visibility:&
CertiMication$such$as$craft$mark,$can$be$obtained$to$endorse$authenticity.$
Though$many$of$these$units$are$registered$entities$with$regular$production,$
they$do$not$have$website$to$leverage$this.$Creation$of$an$Alleppy$craft$portal$
would$help$everyone.$$
$
Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
64&
&
Display&and&Merchandising&System:&The$units$do$not$sell$from$their$
premises$as$they$do$not$have$a$proper$system$of$display.&&
Developing$a&portable&display$system$would$help$in$sales$at$exhibitions$as$well$
as$from$opportunities$at$resorts$in$tourist$season.$$
$
R&&&D&For&Local&raw&materials:&Screw$pine$is$probably$the$only$local$raw$
material$used,$all$the$others$being$sourced$from$outside$the$state$including$
banana$bark.$The$abundantly$available$local$banana$variety$has$not$been$
explored$for$its$suitability.$Many$more$new$innovations$are$possible$if$the$most$
locally$available$coir$can$be$combined$with$natural$Mibres.$$
$
Design&Related&Y&colours&&&texture&improvement:&Natural$colours$of$the$
Mibres$have$to$be$combined$carefully$with$other$colours$for$best$appeal$and$
classy$look.$The$natural$Mibre$colour$palette$needs$a$different$approach$from$
the$conventional$textile$colours.$Similarly$when$many$Mibres$are$combined$as$
in$the$case$VGM,$product$property$varies$and$it$will$help$the$unit$to$document$
the$difference$with$samples,$notes$systematically$which$they$currently$do$not.$$
&
Workstation&and&posture:&Much$of$the$production$being$home$based$and$all$
the$workers$are$women$Mloor$working$is$most$common$along$with$bent$
posture$&$neck$straining$for$hours$together.$$
$
Environment&Related&issues:&High$humidity$of$the$region$with$its$backwaters$
and$log$rainy$period$poses$a$big$problem$for$raw$material$and$product$storage$
in$addition$to$workability$of$materials.$Production$capacity$declined$during$
monsoon.$AntiSfungal$treatment,$use$of$dryers$tec.,$could$be$explored$to$help$
them$deal$with$production$and$quality$issues.$$
&
$

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
65&
Natural'Fibres'–'Alleppey'
Step'By'step'Scope'For'Interven-on'

Raw&material&& Scien;fic&propaga;on&of&screwpine&for&manufacturability&
Stepping&up&cul;va;on&of&plant&locally&with&Panchayat&help&
Screw&pine&&& R&&&D&to&u;lize&the&local&plant&like&banana&bark&in&produc;on&
other&fibres& to&reduce&dependence&on&outside&sources.&

Ergonomic&worksta;on;&R&&&D&for&posture,&ligh;ng&etc.,&&
Produc;on&Envt&&&& An;&fungal&treatment&for&longer&storage.&
Prac;ces& Inter&cluster&communica;on&/&meet&for&ideas&and∾on.&&
&&
&
&&

Skill&Up[grada;on&for&beder&product&conversion&by&sewing.&
Skills&and&Training& Standardiza;on&of&dyeing&methods,&natural&dyes&&&azofree.&
SoO&skills&training&for&weavers&in&selling&&&market&liaison&
SoO&skills&in&documenta;on&of&own&designs&by&the&units.&&

Value&addi;on&through&;e/dye,&natural&dye&&&azo&free&dyes.&
Design&&&Product& R&&&D&for&diverse&markets&towards&stable&market&demand.&
Development& Informed&colour&combina;ons&&&fibre&combina;ons.&
&
&
&
&
&
&&Brand&development,&Logo&and&communica;on&website.&
Marke;ng& Cer;fica;on&of&craO&authen;city.&
Strategies&&&Tools& Exploring&the&tourist/resort&markets&locally.&
&
&
&
&
&
&&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
66&
Neyya-nkara'Cluster'
Neyyatinkara$is$a$prominent,$fertile$town$in$Trivandrum$district$on$the$
banks$of$Neyyar$river.$It$is$a$small$municipality$and$mainly$a$residential$
town.$$
Location:&In$South$Kerala,$situated$about$18$km$south$of$Trivandrom$city$
on$NH$47.$It$has$a$small$railway$station$with$limited$number$of$trians$that$
mainly$pass$through$for$a$few$minutes$but$the$road$connectivity$is$good$
being$on$the$national$highway$to$Kanyakumari.$$
Climate:&Tropical$and$humid.$Hottest$months$are$March$&$April$ranging$
about$270C$with$a$very$high$level$of$humidity.$$
Natural&Resources:&Fishing$&$$Agriculture.$Major$crops$are$rice,$coconut$
and$rubber.$$$
Demography:&Total&Population$$of$around$9$lakh.$$
Local&Industries:&&
Agriculture:$Major$crops$are$–$rice,$coconut$and$sugarcane$though$much$of$
the$district$is$sandy$with$low$yield.$$
Fishing$is$a$very$important$economic$activity.&
Industries:&Neyyatinkara’s&main$industry$is$the$Kerala$Automobile$Limited$
that$manufactures$auto$parts.$The$port$at$Vizhinjam$(10kmaway)$is$set$to$
become$an$international$port$soon.$$$
Tourism&and&medical&tourism:&With$dozens$of$resorts$near$Trivandrum$
and$Kovalam,$$the$traditional$healing$system$of$Ayurvedic$medicine$is$
experiencing$a$very$big$revival$with$the$tourists.$Neyyatinkara$still$being$a$$
small$town$makes$it$more$affordable$and$charming.$$$$

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
67&
Palm'Leaf'Industry'
Botanical&Name:&Borassus&
Commonly$$knows$as$Palmyra$Palm,$the$Borassus$is$genus$of$six$species$of$
tall$fan$palms$native$to$tropical$regions$of$Asia,$Africa$and$New$Guinea.$They$
can$grow$up$to$a$height$of$30$meters;$the$leaves$are$fan$shaped$measuring$
about$2$to$3$m$in$diameter.$The$Palmyra$palm$is$one$of$the$most$important$
trees$in$Cambodia$and$India$where$it$has$over$800$uses.$$$Almost$every$part$
of$the$tree$is$economically$useful$–$the$trunk$is$used$for$rooMing,$the$sap$for$
medicinal$use,$the$leaf$for$thatching,$umbrella$and$basketry,$the$hard$stem$
Mibres$for$making$cleaning$brushes,$the$fruit$for$extraction$of$liquor,$sugar$
etc.,$The$processed$leaf$of$the$palm$has$been$used$as$writing$paper$(like$
papyrus)$in$ancient$cultures$and$for$centuries$carried$the$literary$heritage$of$
Tamil$Language$too!$$The$palm$tree$is$abundant$in$the$coastal$regions$of$
south$India$where$the$craft$of$palm$leaf$basketry$has$Mlourished.$$

The&diverse&uses&of&palm&leaf&
as&basket,&mat,&fan,&packing&
material&and&manuscript.&&&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
68&
Palm&leaf&extraction&and&Production&Techniques:&
In$Neyyatinkara$region,$close$to$the$border$of$Tamilnadu,$mature$palm$
foliage$or$fans$are$sold$in$bulk.$Primarily$two$kinds$of$construction$
techniques$are$used:$$The$traditional$Mlat$weaving$(mats$&$baskets)$and$
the$more$modern$knotting$method.$The$natural$colour$ranges$from$pale$
green$to$a$mellow$off$white$as$it$matures$and$behaves$like$stiff$paper$to$
work$with;$the$hot,$sultry$climes$of$coastal$regions$is$ideal$for$its$best$
pliability.$The$stiff$spine$of$the$leaf$is$removed$in$case$of$Mine$work.$$

From&Top:&Separa;ng&and&splicing&palm&leaf&using&
the&'blade&box'&tool&prior&to&weaving.&Flat&weaving&
for&mats&&&baskets&the&tradi;onal&way.&Local&
demand&for&the&large&basket&peaks&during&marriage&
season&for&temporary&storage&of&food&&&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
69&
Knotting&/Coiling&Technique:&
The$stiff$spine$of$palm$leaf$is$coiled$into$a$spiral$(when$wet)$and$strips$of$
palm$leaf$are$would$and$knotted$continuously$on$it.$$The$resulting$basket$
is$rigid,$of$varied$shapes$and$has$characteristic$triangular$holes.$

Various&stages&as&knosng&
progresses.&Dyeing&is&done&prior&
to&weaving&using&basic&dyes&
typically&in&small&quan;;es&as&the&
produc;on&is&home&based.&Simple&
hand&tools&–&penknife,&scissors&are&
used.&&
&
&
Quality'Issues:'Palm&leaf&does&not&
have&much&tensile&strength.&It&
cannot&make&strong&handles&that&
are&soO&on&skin.&Yet,&ar;sans&
con;nue&to&make&loops&and&
handles&with&it,&which&is&
problema;c&for&func;onal&and&
aesthe;c&appeal.&SoOer&fibres&like&
banana&(below)&available&locally&
can&be&used&for&handles&for&beder&
func;onality&and&aesthe;cs.&&
&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
70&
Product&Range:&

Hats&made&by&knosng&and&
by&braining&&&s;ching.&
&
Bin&and&variuos&table&top&
container,&baskets.&
&
Clock&made&at&a&design&
workshop.&
&
Issue&to&improve:&Colour&
combina;ons.&
&&
&
&
&
&

The&tradi;onal&&kodan&basket&seen&below&seems&to&be&best&
seller&across&markets.&Anavoor&Mahila&Samajam&has&a&steady&
order&from&fabinida&in&exclusive&colours&and&the&village&market&
too&needs&it&in&hundreds&in&natural&colour.&&&
&
&
&
&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
71&
Other&9ibres:&
To$a$lessor$extent$and$based$on$orders$some$of$the$units$Gramaseva$
Bhavan$and$Anavoor$Mahila$Samajam$work$with$Mibres$like$banana$(stem$
or$bast$Mibre),$Talipot$and$coir.$Most$of$the$Mibres$come$from$outside$to$
execute$orders.$Braiding$and$yarn$making$are$the$primary$steps$after$
which$they$are$stitched$or$woven$on$frames$to$make$mats,$bags$etc.,$In$
the$case$Anavoor,$table$mat$weaving$with$korai$grass$has$recently$
become$a$good$commercial$venture$with$Fabindia$placing$orders$for$up$
to$1500$pieces$per$month.$The$colours$and$$designs$are$according$
speciMications.$
The$main$design$issue$$is$the$$colour$combinations$prevalent$in$the$
assumption$that$only$bright$colours$are$liked$by$markets.$Natural$Mibres’$
natural$colours$and$textures$are$very$subtle$but$robust.$When$treated$
like$Mlat$colours$and$combined$randomly,$they$lose$their$classy$look$and$
despite$tedious$workmanship,$the$product$does$not$fetch$a$good$price.$
The$theme$of$colour$can$be$demonstrated$in$the$design$clinic$workshop.$$
The$other$opportunity$they$have$not$explored$is$the$combination$of$
different$$materials$for$making$yarn.$Combination$yarn$can$open$up$new$
production$as$well$as$marketing$possibilities.$

Above:&Present&colour&range.&
LeO,&top:&Rad&wheel&and&yarn&making&
LeO,&bodom:&Loom&and&table&mat.&Tie/dye&
has&added&&value&to&table&mats&in&Anavoor.&&
&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
72&
Units'Study'

Unit&Name:&Anavoor&Mahila&Samajam&
Anavoor$P.O.$Neyyattinakara$
Thiruvananthapuram,$Kerala$–$695124$
Ph:$0471$2275857$
President:$Mrs.Sarojini$
Description:$NonSproMit$society$started$by$village$
artisans$in$1976.$$Availed$several$govt$training$
programmes$including$ANVY,$Khadi$skill$
development,$ministry$of$social$welfare.$

Product&Range:$Woven$Kora$Grass$Table$mats,$Talipot$table$mats;$palm$
leaf$baskets$for$local$/$metro$markets.$
Nature&of&Work:&Natural$Mibre$producers.$
Turn&Over:&About$20$lakhs$per$annum$
Infrastructure&setYup:&2$story$ofMice$building$for$administrative$work;$
Production$unit$(Craft$Development$Center$built$with$the$assistance$of$
AHVY$scheme)$housing$about$20$looms;$homeSbased$production$in$about$
50$houses$of$artisans$in$village.$Adequate.$The$village$has$good$road$
connectivity$too.$
Employee&Strength:&25$in$loom$weaving$and$20$in$basketry.$
$

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
73&
Design&Opportunity& Remarks'

Market&related&aspects& Communica;on:&
& Comprehensive&product&catalogue&by&upda;ng&the&
present&one&sponsored&by&AHVY.&
Effec;ve&website&(there&is&none&currently)&
Training&for&cluster&manager&in&communica;on.&
Branding&&&Cer;fica;on&
&
Market&study:&
Suppliers&to&FabIndia.&About&70%&produc;on&for&one&
buyer.&The&rest&goes&to&local&exhibi;ons.&
With&their&produc;on&and&networking&capability,&they&
need&to&diversify&buyers&in&order&to&tap&into&full&
produc;vity&and&to&increase&employability&&
&
Infrastructure&related&aspects& Well&func;oning&Common&Facility&Center&but&needs&to&
& improve&layouts&for&effec;ve&produc;on&output.&
More&ligh;ng&needed&in&center&in&case&of&extra&work&
hours.&
No&proper&arrangement&for&display&or&sale&of&product&at&
village&level,&office&is&used&only&for&storing&products&
presently.&
Central&dyeing&facility&can&be&created&considering&the&
large&volumes&of&produc;on.&
&
Produc;on&related&aspects& Higher&value&products&need&to&be&created&for&beder&
profitability&&&margins&through:&
Beder&colour&combina;ons.&
Dyeing&related&aspects&like&;e/dye&and&azo&free&dyes&as&an&
alterna;ve&to&basic&dyes.&&
&
Environmental&Aspects& High&humidity&&for&3&[4&months&during&monsoon&is&an&
& issue.&Fungus&problem&occur.&
Ergonomics&related& The&loom&needs&to&be&looked&into&for&improving&
& ergonomics.&&
Training&and&Skill&up[grada;on& More&exposure&to&urban&markets&in&a&guided&way&to&
understand&value&addi;on.&Direct&marke;ng&at&exhibi;ons&
would&fetch&higher&profits&if&personnel&trained&properly&in&
salesmanship.&&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
74&
Unit&Name:&Grama&Seva&Bhavan&
Kanjampazhinjil$$P.O.$Neyyattinakara$
Thiruvananthapuram,$Kerala$–$695124$
Ph:$0471$$
President:$Mr.Thirupuram$Gopan$
Description:$NonSproMit$society$started$
in$1987.$$Availed$several$govt$training$
programmes$including$ANVY,$Khadi$
skill$development,$industries$
department,$NABARD$etc.,.$

Product&Range:$Hand$embroidery$&$palm$leaf$baskets$for$local$/$metro$
markets.$
Nature&of&Work:&Primarily$a$social$welfare$organization$working$with$
health,$then$diversiMied$into$income$generation$main$project$embroidery$
and4$years$ago$began$working$with$palm$leaf.$Has$created$a$separate$
federation$for$palm$leaf$producers$–$Grama$Deepam$Palm$leaf$Federation$
at$Kulathoor$village.$&&
Turn&Over:&About$5$lakhs$per$annum$in$embroidery.$Palm$leaf$units$are$
new,$yet$to$begin$regular$production$and$business.$Most$of$the$artisans$
supply$to$local$market$directly$through$weekly$bazaars.$
Infrastructure&setYup:&An&ofMice$building$for$administrative$work;$Palm$
leaf$is$home$based$production$in$their$village.$Small$house$has$been$hired$
to$store$raw$material.$One$banana$Mibre$extraction$machine.$Hand$tools$
given$to$artisans;$Ratt$wheels$for$coir$yarn$making$training.$
$

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
75&
Design&Opportunity& Remarks'

Market&related&aspects& Communica;on:&
& No&product&catalogue&or&website.&&
Training&for&cluster&manager&in&communica;on.&
Branding&&&Cer;fica;on&
&
Market&study:&
Suppliers&to&FabIndia.&About&70%&produc;on&for&one&
buyer.&The&rest&goes&to&local&exhibi;ons.&
With&their&produc;on&and&networking&capability,&they’d&
increase&&need&to&diversify&buyers&in&order&to&increase&
produc;on&and&to&increase&employability.&&
Infrastructure&related&aspects& No&common&facility&center&in&the&village&for&produc;on.&
& Can&be&created&to&ease&with&problems&of&home&based&
produc;on.&&
The&road&to&produc;on&village&gets&flooded&in&monsoon.&&
Produc;on&related&aspects& Higher&value&products&need&to&be&created&for&beder&
profitability&&&margins&through:&
Beder&colour&combina;ons.&
Dyeing&related&aspects&like&;e/dye&and&azo&free&dyes&as&an&
alterna;ve&to&basic&dyes.&
Product&improvement&as&suggested&in&the&document.&
Environmental&Aspects& High&humidity&&for&3&[4&months&during&monsoon&is&an&
& issue.&Fungus&problem&occur&with&raw&materials.&
Ergonomics&related& Could&not&detect&any&serious&problems.&But&issues&of&
& working&on&the&floor&need&to&be&studied&and&understood.&
Training&and&skill&up[grada;on& Value&added&designs&and&mixed&fibre&products&as&the&
cluster&has&the&basic&skills&to&work&with&coir&and&banana&
fibre.&Banana&bark&locally&available&can&be&explored&as&raw&
material.&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
76&
Unit&Name:&Aditya&Mahila&Samajam&
P.O.$Neyyattinakara$
Thiruvananthapuram,$Kerala$–$695124$
Ph:$$9995174092$
President:$Ms.Shakunthala$Kumari$
Description:$NonSproMit$society$started$in$2004$by$a$group$of$artisans.$$$

Product&Range:$Plam$leaf$baskets,$hats$and$banana$Mibre$bags.$
Nature&of&Work:&Natural$Fibre$producers.&
Turn&Over:&About$7$lakhs$per$annum.$$
Infrastructure&setYup:&A$small$one$room$outlet$in$town.$Production$
is$home$based.$
Employee&Strength:&up$to$80$people$but$presently$only$20$working.$$

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
77&
Design&Opportunity& Remarks'

Market&related&aspects& Communica;on:&
& No&product&catalogue&or&website.&&
Training&for&cluster&manager&in&communica;on.&
Branding&&&Cer;fica;on.&&
Market&study:&
Goes&to&several&exhibi;on&in&a&year,&is&very&enterprising&
but&needs&to&improve&to&more&value&added&products&for&
higher&profitability.&&
Infrastructure&related&aspects& Home&based&produc;on.&Good&connec;vity&to&produc;on&
& places&by&road.&
Produc;on&related&aspects& Higher&value&products&need&to&be&created&for&beder&
profitability&&&margins&through:&
Beder&colour&combina;ons.&
Dyeing&related&aspects&like&;e/dye&and&azo&free&dyes&as&an&
alterna;ve&to&basic&dyes.&
Product&improvement&as&suggested&in&the&document.&
Environmental&Aspects& High&humidity&&for&3&[4&months&during&monsoon&is&an&
& issue.&Fungus&problem&occur&with&raw&materials.&
Ergonomics&related& Could&not&detect&any&serious&problems.&But&issues&of&
& working&on&the&floor&need&to&be&studied&and&understood.&
Training&and&skill&up[grada;on& Has&not&adended&any&design&workshops&not&has&
benefided&from&working&with&professional&designers.&
Great&poten;al&in&entrepreneurship&skills&which&can&be&
refined&with&beder&value&products&and&direct&marke;ng.&
Display&and&Exhibi;on& The&outlet&is&neat&but&very&basic.&Can&be&improved&with&
more&design&inputs.&The&frequent&exhibi;on&going&may&
need&to&be&supported&with&good&display&stands.&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
78&
Unit&Name:&Gurukrupa&Women&Empowerment&center&
Address:&Cherukonam,$Chempary,$Kuvalassery$PO,$TVM$S$695512$
Contact&person:$Mrs.$Shylaja$Kumari,$Ph:$9349745036$
Description:&NonSproMit$society$started$in$2010$for$skill$training$of$
village$women$occupied$with$agriculture$to$earn$a$supplementary$
income,$working$from$home.$Works$under$the$mentorship$of$''Centre$
for$Enterprise$Development$in$Trivandrum.$
Product&Range:&Coir$products:$mats$and$small$ornaments.$
Turn&Over:&Still$under$training$from$coir$board,$minimal$local$sale$of$
mats.$
Infrastructure&set&up:&Workstation$in$the$center$of$a$group$of$houses$
with$powered$yarn$making$Ratt,$looms$and$frames$for$door$mat$
making.$$
Employee&Strength:&60$women$being$trained$in$batches.$$

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
79&
Design&Opportunity& Remarks'

Market&related&aspects& Communica;on:&
& No&product&catalogue&or&website.&&
Branding&&&Cer;fica;on.&&
Market&study:&
More&exposure&needed&to&understand&markets&and&cash&
in&on&the&enterprising&spirit&of&the&community.&
Infrastructure&related&aspects& Home&based&produc;on.&Good&connec;vity&to&produc;on&
& places&by&road.&Have&basic&equipment&from&coir[board.&
Rain&protec;on&needed.&CFC&would&be&necessary&when&
the&members&start&produc;on.&Land&available&in&village&for&
larger&scale&facility.&
Produc;on&related&aspects& Mixed&yarn&making&is&possible&using&mul;ple&natural&
fibres&as&they&have&all&the&equipment&&&skill&in&yarn&
making.&The&yarn&itself&can&be&marketed&to&weaving&
industry.&&
Beder&colour&combina;ons&in&coir&products.&
Environmental&Aspects& High&humidity&&for&3&[4&months&during&monsoon&is&an&
& issue.&Fungus&problem&occur&with&raw&materials.&
Ergonomics&related& Worksta;on&improvement&for&cramped&workspace.&
&
Training&and&skill&up[grada;on& Yarn&making&with&powered&Rad&can&become&a&
specializa;on&for&this&group.&&&
Display&and&Exhibi;on& No&display&facili;es&in&the&workspace&though&they&sell&
things&to&local&visitors.&This&set&of&homes&is&tucked&away&
inside&a&lidle&rubber&estate,&so&some&signage&would&be&
helpful&in&gesng&customers.&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
80&
Unit&Name:&Chaitanya&Vanitha&Swayam&Sahaya&Sangam&
Address:$Brahmamacode,$Aralumoodu$P.O.$Neyyattinakara$
Thiruvananthapuram,$Kerala$–$695123$
President:$Mrs.K.Mercy,$Ph:9387075370$$$
Description:$NonSproMit$society$started$in$2006$for$skill$training.$
In$2011,$they$have$had$short$term$skill$development$$programmes$in$
bamboo$Mlowers$making$and$palm$leaf$for$10$women.$$No$continuous$
production$yet.$
$
Unit&Name:&Sri&Vanitha&Niketan&Mahila&Charitable&Society&
Kottukal$Konam,$Kattchi$Kuzhi$PO,$Neyyattinkara$–$4.$$
President:$Sarala$Kumari.$Ph:$$
Description:$Primarily$an$MFI$and$income$generation$organization$
working$with$about$100$people$in$villages$on$dairy$farming,$pickle$
making$etc.,$In$2010,$had$a$palm$leaf$skill$training$programme$for$20$
people$(NABARD$assistance)$,$coir$Mibre$ornament$products$for$60$
women$(sponsored$by$Coir$board)$but$no$production$yet.$$
These$two$units$are$yet$to$start$regular$production$in$natural$Mibres$as$
they$await$further$training.$Their$needs$now$are$more$in$terms$of$skill$
upSgradation$and$market$exposure.$They$do$have$some$attractive$
products$but$its$not$clear$whether$they$are$master$trainers’$work$or$
the$trainees’.$Proper$socioSeconomic$assessment$of$their$capacity$in$
terms$of$sustaining$production$/$marketing$of$natural$Mibres$needs$to$
be$carried$out$for$skill$training.$

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
81&
Analysis'of'Issues'&'Opportuni-es'
Capacity&of&the&Cluster:&
Neyyatinkara$is$small$municipality$without$too$many$opportunities$of$
work.$Larger$number$of$workforce$in$crafts$possible$as$its$one$of$the$
main$industries$for$rural$folk$after$agriculture.$The$traditional$skills$and$
to$a$great$extent,$the$old$market$for$handcrafted$products$like$basketry/
mat$is$also$present.$Unlike$other$clusters,$the$craft$worker$need$not$look$
for$highly$value$added$products$in$order$to$sell$in$the$local$market.$$Raw$
materials$like$palm$leaf$are$easily$available$in$this$location$so$close$to$
Tamilnadu$border.$Tourism$is$also$picked$up$of$recent$on$account$of$
many$resorts$nearby.$
$
Drawbacks&of&the&Cluster:&
Predominantly$rural,$artisans$lack$exposure$to$outside$products$and$
market.$Palm$leaf$has$been$treated$as$a$cheap$material$and$not$durable$
like$bamboo,$customer’s$value$is$low.$Hence$the$quality$of$workmanship$
&$innovation$are$at$a$low$level.$Not$enough$information$available$on$the$
extent$of$craft,$no$of$people$practising$etc.,$as$the$intervention$agencies$
are$very$few.$
&
Remedies:&
Comprehensive&survey:&to$determine$the$extent$of$craft$practice$is$
necessary$even$to$understand$the$extent$of$intervention.$
&
Branding&&&Visibility:&Creating$a$regional$identity$and$certiMication$of$
authentic$craft$work$would$help.$
&
Display&&&Merchandising:&Except$one$unit,$no$one$has$any$facility$to$sell$$
from$workplaces$including$big$units$like$Anavoor$and$GSB.$Yet$they$go$to$
several$exhibitions$the$scope$of$which$would$be$strengthened$by$a$
mobile$display$unit$to$attract$more$crowd$to$the$stall$and$to$increase$the$
sale$value$of$the$products.$
$

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
82&
R&&&D&for&Design&Intervention:&The$few$units$who$have$undergone$
training$and$design$workshops$extensively,$do$not$seem$to$make$use$of$
the$new$designs.$For$effective$use$of$design,$their$markets$have$to$be$
built$from$bottom$up$as$most$of$them$still$sell$70%$production$locally.$
Developing$products$to$fetch$higher$value$even$in$a$small$town$market$is$
a$big$challenge$but$with$proper$background$work,$a$designer$should$be$
able$to$demonstrate$this$process.$
&
Addressing&Functionality&issues&of&existing&Products:&&
•  Brittle$handles$of$palm$leaf$basketry$can$be$remedied$with$
combination$of$a$soft$Mibre$like$banana.$(braided$and$twisted$yarn$are$
two$opportunities)$
•  Colour&Combinations&presently$are$random$and$not$consistent$with$
the$look$and$feel$of$the$natural$Mibre.$They$$need$to$be$done$in$a$better$
aesthetic$and$informed$way$through$demonstration$&$presentation$of$
appropriate$samples.$This$can$work$across$palm$leaf,$banana$and$
Talipot$Mibres.$
&
Product&Related&Opportunities:&
Tie/Dye:&Dying$using$tie$and$dye$process$opens$up$new$possibilities$for$
basketry.$This$has$not$been$attempted$before$and$hence$presents$an$
opportunity.$
&
Novelty&yarns:&As$several$types$of$Mibres$are$available$locally,$yarn$
making$using$existing$equipment$to$create$new$material$is$possible,$the$
yarn$in$itself$can$be$a$product$not$requiring$very$high$skills.$$
&
Playful,&simple&products:&Elsewhere,$palm$leaf$is$used$for$making$small,$
expressive$animal$/bird$Migurines$which$enjoy$multiple$markets$not$just$
local.$Neyyatinkara$cluster$can$beneMit$from$this$approach.$An$
introduction$to$origami$techniques$($paper$strip$manipulation)$to$come$
up$with$interesting$original$Migurines$would$be$a$good$addition$to$the$
design$interventions$that$focus$only$on$basketry.$$They$can$also$be$
converted$to$hanging$mobiles.$
Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
83&
Step'By'Step'Process'and''
Scope'For'Interven-on'

Raw&material&& No&problems&reported&about&the&availability.&&
R&&&D&to&u;lize&local&banana&fibre.&&&
Palm&leaf&&&other&
fibres&

Mostly&home&based&units,&proper&R&&&D&for&posture,&ligh;ng&&
Produc;on&Envt&&&& ergonomic&worksta;on&etc.,&need&to&be&carried&out.&
Prac;ces& An;&fungal&treatment&for&longer&storage&of&materials.&
&&

Skill&Up[grada;on&for&beder&product&func;onality.&
Skills&and&Training& Standardiza;on&of&dyeing&methods,&natural&dyes&&&azofree.&
SoO&skills&training&for&producers&in&market&liaison.&
Fancy/mixed&yarn&making&to&u;lize&cluster&poten;al.&

Value&addi;on&through&;e/dye,&natural&dye&&&azo&free&dyes.&
Design&&&Product& R&&&D&for&product&diversifica;on&in&line&with&skills&&&demand.&
Development& Informed&colour&combina;ons&&&product&features.&
Value&addi;on&through&new&designs&for&local&products.&
&
&
&
&
&Brand&development,&Logo&and&communica;on&website.&
Marke;ng& &&Cer;fica;on&of&craO&authen;city.&
Strategies&&&Tools& Exploring&the&tourist/resort&markets&locally.&
Market&exposure&to&rural&women.&
&
&
&
&
&
&&
Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
84&
Band&5&
Design'Clinic'Workshop'
Natural'Fibres'Micro'Industry'

29'May'2014'to'3'June'2014'
Kerala'

85&
MSME&&Design&Clinic&Workshop&&
Day&1&:&29&May&2014&[&Assorted&natural&fibres&(screwpine,&banana,&sisal)&&
Venue:&Vishwagaji&Madom&(VGM),&Muhamma&near&Allepey.&&
Design&Expert:&Hema&Raghunathan&
Expert&Speaker:&Shri.Anand&Dharwar,&Bangalore&
'
Brief&Pro9ile&of&Expert&Speaker:&
Anand$Dharwar$is$an$R$&D$professional$with$32$year$of$experience$dealing$with$
rural$and$alternative$technologies$involving$human$livelihoods$dependent$up$on$
natural$resources.$With$a$degree$in$textile$technology,$he$has$worked$as$dyeing$
master$at$a$private$company,$$textile$technologist$at$Development$Alternatives$and$
continues$to$serve$as$the$president$of$Gram$Nirmana$(a$producers’$society$he$
founded$in$2000)$$in$addition$to$teaching$textile$related$subjects$at$Srishti$School$of$
Art,$Design$and$Technology,$Bangalore.$Grama$Nirmana$situated$100$km$from$
Bangalore$at$Sathnur$village$has$trained$more$than$60$women$to$spin,$dye$and$
weave$diverse$natural$Mibres$extracted$from$banana,$vetiver,$hibiscus$and$sedge$
biomass.$The$products$are$marketed$successfully$&$sustainably$without$seeking$
external$funding.$$
Anand$Dharwar$is$the$recepiant$of$Dasimayya$National$Award$of$excellence$for$
contribution$to$the$handloom$sector,$instituted$by$DESI$during$2011S12.$
&
Programme'Schedule:&
Morning&Sessions&&
1.  Inauguration$and$welcome$address$by$Swami$Asparsa,$head$of$VGM.$
2.  Presentation$of$NAS$and$related$interaction.$
3.  Case$study$in$exploitation$of$banana$Mibre$&$its$manufacture,$marketing.$
4.  Technical$discussion$and$demonstration$of$antiSfungal$treatment$
&&
Afternoon&Sessions&$
5.  Hand$Yarn$making$using$various$natural$Mibres.$
6.  Yarn$making$on$charkha$machine$with$assorted$natural$Mibres.$
7.  Presentation$of$designing$for$tourist$market$with$hand$out$material,$tips$for$
product$improvement$etc.,.$
8.  Discussion$on$making$design$workshops$effective.''
Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
86&
MSME&&Design&Clinic&Workshop&Par;cipants&List&&&&
Venue:&Vishwagaji&Madom,&Muhamma,&Alleppey&
Date:&&29&May&2014&

S.No% Name%and%address%of%unit% Participant%Name% Contact%


%
1% Chaitanya%SHG,%JMSWC,% Latha%prasad% 9946277470%
Thalayolaparambu,%
Kottayam%
2% Chachaji%SHG,JMSWC,%Thalayolaparambu,% Sreerekha%Sadanandan% 9526099268%
Kottayam% Sarasamma%Biju% 9562386547%
3% Jawahar%Memorial%Social%Welfare%Centre,% Rajasekharan%T.P% 9446261757%
Thalayolaparambu,%Kottayam% P.G.%Thankamma% 9446206003%
%
4% Navajeevan%SHG,%Kallapuram,%Muhamma,% Deepa%Manoj% 9142068452%
Alappuzha%
5% Sahrudaya%SHG,%Kallapuram,%Muhamma,% Majumol%%K.M% 8086559851%
Alappuzha% Shani%Nath% 9142446299%
Thulasi%%M.B% 9142446299%
%
6% Malavika%SHG,%%Charamangalam,% Saradhy% 9249127104%
Muhamma,%Alappuzha%
7% Mahatma%SHG,%Charamangalam,% Mini%%Dinesan% 9142630986%
Muhamma,%Alappuzha% Mini%%Dileep% 9142238449%
8% Viswagaji%Mutt,%Charamangalam,% P.K.%Ratnamma% 9495989229%
Muhamma,%Alappuzha%% Kairali% 9287909594%
%
9% Sri%Krishna%SHG,%Charamangalam,% Baby%%P.L% 9349480112%
Muhamma,%Alappuzha%
%
%

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
87&
Opportunity&/&Problem&areas&identi9ied&&
&&Remedial&solutions&provided&at&the&workshop:&
&
Raw&material&related:&
1.  Availability$&$Exploitation:$Almost$all$the$raw$materials$come$from$outside$
the$state$including$banana$bark$Mibre,$even$though$it$is$plentifully$available$
locally.$The$expert$explained$the$processes$involved$in$extraction$of$
workable$Mibre$from$various$parts$of$the$banana$plant$from$his$own$
experience$along$with$samples.$It$was$also$a$motivational$speech$for$the$
participants$as$his$work$covers$technical,$marketing$and$social$development$
milieu.$$

2.  AntiSfungal$treatment:$Alleppey,$Vaikom$being$backwater$areas,$constant$
humidity$throughout$the$year,$not$just$in$rainy$season$causes$major$fungus$$
issues$with$every$stage$of$production$and$storage.$It$also$causes$issues$of$
warping$and$bending$that$need$to$be$remedied$before$sending$to$market.$
Expert$demonstrated$locally$possible$fungal$treatments$with$low$cost,$locally$
available$&$non$toxic$materials$and$tools$such$as$pressure$cooker$that$can$be$
done$at$unit$level$(see$details$along$with$the$photographs).$$

3.  AntiShumidiMier$protection$on$storage$and$packing:$To$address$the$fungus$
issue$at$stages$of$packing$and$inShouse$house$storage,$expert$advised$and$
demonstrated$the$use$of$Silica$gel$available$in$sachets$of$5$g$and$10g.$
Alleppey$being$an$export$centric$place,$we$could$get$samples$locally$from$
factories$to$show$the$natural$Mibre$producers$who$haven’t$used$them.$$$

4.  Storage$of$materials$can$also$beneMit$from$aired$racks$with$silica$gel$bowls$/$
sachets$placed$between$them.$Alternately,$keeping$the$Mibre$near$the$çhula$in$
rainy$season$would$also$help.$However,$the$best$solution$is$to$have$electrical$
or$solar$driers$(like$the$kind$used$in$the$food$industry$so$that$the$Mibres$can$
be$dried$whenever$the$weather$turns$extra$humid.$$
&
$
&&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
88&
Market&related:&
The$cluster$has$fairly$well$developed$NGOs$and$their$regular$markets,$but$they$
cannot$utilize$full$production$potential$due$to$lack$of$market$diversiMication.$The$
opportunity$here$is$the$tourist$market$and$designing$relevant$products.$A$
detailed,$pictorial$handout$was$prepared$and$with$the$help$of$the$handout,$new$
product$ideas$and$how$they$can$be$leveraged$for$the$tourist$market$were$
discussed$by$the$design$expert.$
&
Product&improvement:&
1.  HandsSon$yarn$making$sessions:$As$the$units$have$access$to$a$wide$range$of$
natural$Mibres,$they$were$combined$to$create$new$yarn$types$which$can$then$
be$used$in$basketry,$bins$and$winding$on$frames$for$traySmaking.$Both$hand$
made$yarns$and$charkha$yarn$were$explored$and$some$samples$were$made.$
2.  Warping/$bending$of$the$surface$of$the$mat:$There$was$some$signiMicant$
interScluster$communication$on$this$issue$between$VGM$and$as$Jawahar$
society$as$the$latter$had$resolved$it$with$the$help$of$a$simple$press$to$Mlatten$
the$products$before$packing.$$
3.  Using$cane$frames$(cane$material$&$skills$are$available$locally)$in$place$of$
rust$prone$metal$frames$for$aesthetics$as$well$as$functional$reasons.$
4.  Getting$good$inputs$out$of$a$design$workshops:$For$all$these$units,$there$have$
been$many$GovtSsponsored$design$workshops$with$professional$designers$
but$no$product$geos$into$actual$production$as$most$of$them$are$not$relevant$
to$their$markets.$In$the$bargain,$$the$units$stand$to$lose$precious$time$/$
resources.$Discussion$was$held$as$to$how$to$structure$the$design$inputs.$
Some$of$the$recommendations$are:$
•  The$designers$who$come$from$outside$need$to$be$able$to$communicate$better$
with$the$trainees$and$they$need$to$be$experienced$in$natural$Mibres$too.$Often,$
the$sponsoring$agency$decides$on$the$person$and$product$range$and$we$do$
not$have$any$say$in$the$matter.$$
•  It$is$beneMicial$to$have$continuous$&$incremental$design$inputs$rather$than$a$
15$day$workshop$once$a$year.$It$becomes$prototype$oriented,$hurried$and$not$
realistic.$We$have$beneMitted$most$with$such$continuous$design$intervention$
right$up$to$the$market$stage.$
&&
Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
89&
Day'1:'Photographs''''

Inaugura;on&&
Anand&Dharwar&on&banana&fibre&processes.&&

Group&discussion&on&product&improvement&&&&
Gudelines&for&design&inputs,&hand&outs.&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
90&
Mixed&yarn&making&with&sisal,&codon&waste,&banana&bark,&jute,&
banana&fibre&etc.,both&by&hand&process&and&using&the&rad&wheel.&
It&was&surprising&to&note&that&the&women&prefer&to&make&yarn&by&
hand&–&ra;onale&being&the&slower&processgives&finer&results.&&&

6&different&types&of&yarn&were&made&using&codon&
waste&(from&garment&factories),&banana&bark&
fibre&/&stem&fibre,&sisal,&jute,&korai&grass&etc.,&
These&mixed&yarns&are&adrac;ve,&have&wide&
applica;on&in&basketry,&tary&making&&&mats.&&&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
91&
Effec-ve'An-_fungal'treatment'using'simple'Equipment'&'materials:'

Banana&Fibre&an;[fungal&treatment&as&soon&as&it&is&procured.&
Equipment:&Pressure&cooker.&
Materials:&Vineagar,&Copper&sulphate&or&Boric&acis&crystals&
commonly&available&at&any&medicine&shop&
Method:&Tie&the&fibre&coils,&
immerse&in&water&in&the&5&lit&(or&larger)&pressure&cooker,&&
Add&a&few&caps&of&vineagar&
Pressure&cook&for&4&whistles&
Remove&from&heat&and&remove&lid&immediately.&
In&a&separate&contaner,&dissolve&a&pinch&of&opper&sulphate&or&
boric&acid&in&sufficient&water&and&immerse&the&fibre&overnight.&
Dry&in&shade&the&next&day&&&store.&&

Detailed&scienti9ic&Explanation:&
&
The$biomass$like$banana$biomass$and$others$are$prone$to$be$affected$by$fungi$in$the$rainy$
season$leading$to$loss$of$strength$and$discoloration.$This$is$mainly$due$to$the$sugars$
contained$in$the$biomass.$These$sugars$are$mainly$contained$in$the$xylose$which$
constitutes$25S30%$of$the$biomass.$The$other$components$like$cellulose($$nearly$50%),$
lignin$(nearly$18%)$and$extractives$like$trace$metals$and$silica$do$not$support$fungal$
growth.$If$the$xylose$is$partially$or$completely$removed$and$replaced$by$a$fungicide$like$
copper$sulfate$the$biomass$can$be$protected$from$degradation$
$
The$way$to$remove$the$xylose$was$by$treating$the$banana$biomass$with$a$steam$treatment$
using$a$pressure$cooker.$The$banana$material$was$made$in$to$ribbons$2S3$inch$wide$and$
rolled$into$$coils.$These$coils$$were$placed$in$a$pressure$cooker$and$covered$with$water$to$
which$vinegar$had$been$added.$The$vinegar$added$the$needed$acid$which$would$cause$the$
xylose$to$dissociate$and$be$removed.$The$cooker$was$$$run$for$20$minutes$or$for$a$duration$
of$4$whistles.$The$coils$were$removed$from$the$cooker$by$forcibly$removing$the$whistle$
from$the$cooker$immediately$after$turning$off$the$gas.$This$let$out$the$steam$contained$in$
the$cooker$heading$to$a$lowering$of$the$internal$pressure.$The$xylose$contained$within$the$
biomass$oozes$out$turning$the$water$to$take$on$a$beige$color.$This$water$can$be$added$to$a$
biogas$plant$as$both$the$xylose$sugar$and$the$vinegar$can$be$converted$to$biogas.$
$
The$coils$are$then$dunked$in$to$a$cold$solution$of$weak$copper$sulfate.$The$chemical$gets$
absorbed$overnight$giving$the$biomass$a$blue$tinge.$This$can$then$be$dried$and$used$as$
required.$The$presence$of$copper$sulfate$and$reduced$xylose$content$will$discourage$fungal$
growth.$Boric$acid$used$to$keep$pests$away$from$grains$can$be$used$instead$of$copper$
sulfate$if$the$blue$tinge$is$not$acceptable.$

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
92&
MSME&&Design&Clinic&Workshop&&&&
Day&2&–&30&May&2014&
Venue:&Bhavana&SHG,&Thazahava&Village,&Kollam&Disd.(Screwpine&Fibre)&
Design&Expert:&Hema&Raghunathan&
Expert&Speaker:&Smt.P.G.Thangamma,&Jawahar&Welfare&Center,&Thalayola&Parambu.&

Brief&Pro9ile&of&Expert&Speaker:&
Smt.P.G.Thangamma$is$the$general$secretary$of$the$Jawahar$Welfare$Center$and$
also$the$honorary$viceSpresident$of$Surabhi$Handicrafts$(Kerala$State$Handicraft$
Apex$CoSoperative$Society).$Jawahar$Memorial$Social$Welfare$and$Public$CoS
operation$Center$was$founded$in$1970$and$worked$on$social$welfare$activities$
like$youth$development,$education$and$alcohol$deSaddiction.$Appointed$as$the$
nodal$agency$for$implementing$the$AHVY$projects$by$DCH$for$the$screw$pine$
clusters$in$the$region,$Jawahar$center$since$then$has$achieved$a$great$deal$in$
setting$up$a$vibrant$handicraft$enterprise$named$Jaihind$Screw$pine$Artisans’$
cluster$Federation$at$Thalayolaparambu.$With$the$active$participation$of$
producers$and$the$successful$utilization$of$Govt,schemes$like$the$Common$
Facility$Center,$advanced$equipment,$insurance$coverage,$bank$loans,$design$
development$programmes$$etc.,$Jaihind$has$become$a$competitive$producer$
group$that$regularly$supplies$to$Fab$India.$$
'
Programme'Schedule'
Morning&Sessions$
1.  Presentation$of$Need$Assessment$Study$of$Thazhava$craft$and$related$
interaction$$
2.  Experience$of$screw$pine$production$and$marketing$by$Smt.Thangam.$
3.  Importance$of$plantation$of$screw$pine$in$village$–$interactive$session$with$
the$local$Panchayat$ofMicial$to$enlist$support$of$local$Governance.$
&&
Afternoon&Sessions$
4.  Collective$Mapping$of$changes$in$the$industry$$‘then$and$now’$
5.  Collective$mapping:$‘force$Mield$analysis’$to$understand$various$factors$
affecting$the$industry.$

6.  Presentation$of$new$product$ideas$for$multiSmarkets$along$with$hand$outs.$&&
Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
93&
MSME&&Design&Clinic&Workshop&Par;cipants&List&&&&
Venue:&Bhavana&SHG,&Thazahava&Village,&Kollam&Disd.&
Dates:&&30&May&2014&

S.No% Name%and%address%of%unit% Participant%Name% Contact%


%
1% Bhavana%SHG,%P%V%North,%Thazhava,% Seenath% 9562212968%
Karunagappally% Thankamma% 9656531011%
Chandrika% 0476M2663049%
2% Anaswara%SHG,%P%V%North,%Thazhava,% Sainaba%Kunju%% 9947550023%
Karunagappally%% Prasanna% 9645272906%
3% Surya%SHG,%P%V%North,%Thazhava,% Devata% 9947550023%
Karunagappally%
4% Navajyothi%SH,%P%V%North,%Thazhava,% Jalaja% 0476M3242660%
Karunagappally% Usha%%T% 9847622369%
5% Bhoomika%SHG,%Kadathoor%P.O,%Thazhava,% Usha% 9544938913%
Karunagappally%
6% Mahalakshmi%SHG,%P%V%North,%Thazhava,% Ramani% 9539578118%
Karunagappally%
7% Vismaya%SHG,%P%V%North,%Thazhava,% Lekha% 9946110155%
Karunagappally%
8% Sneha%sangamam%SHG,%Kadathoor%P.O,% Sumangala% 9995381314%
Thazhava,%Karunagappally% Girija% 9961158924%
Prabhavathi% 0476M2665580%
%
9% Sneha%SHG,%Kadathoor,%Thazhava,% Thankamony% 7847985006%
Karunagappally%
10% Karuna%SHG,%Southwest%Thazhava,% Ushakumari% 9526760810%
Karnagappally%
11% Vandana%SHG,%,%Kadathoor%P.O,%Thazhava,% Sathiamma% 8606318429%
Karunagappally% Fathima%Beevi% 96452441184%
Maniamma% 9526760810%
Bhasura% 0476M2631572%
%
12% Sneha%SHG,%Edapallykotta,%Chavara% Maya% 9567339245%
% Jagdamma% 9995666092%
% Sasikala% 9496870356%
%
%

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
94&
Opportunity&/&Problem&areas&identi9ied&&
&&Remedial&solutions&discussed&at&the&workshop:&
The$NAS$identiMied$a$set$of$nonSdesign$issues$with$this$cluster’s$industry.$$
Thazhava$screw$pine$weaving$has$indeed$seen$much$design$&$marketing$
intervention$for$0ver$10$years$until$recently,$the$industry$has$not$been$able$to$
sustain$the$momentum$and$even$clearly$regressed$in$its$growth.$As$discussed$in$
the$NAS,$the$cluster$has$hit$a$roadSblock$with$market$linkages$as$well$as$raw$
material$procurement$even$after$they$achieved$a$great$deal$in$marketing,$
product$development$as$well$as$grassroots$institutional$arrangements.$This$
needs$to$be$brought$to$the$attention$of$Surabhi$and$Kairali$handicrafts$emporia$
thorough$the$design$clinic$platform.$$
They$also$face$an$issue$of$raw$material,$screw$pine$plantation$dwindling$in$the$
surrounding$areas$due$to$cutting$down.$Rapid$urbanization$(main$highway$
passes$close$to$the$village)$as$well$as$lack$of$awareness$on$the$part$of$local$
authorities$are$reasons$for$this$depleting$raw$material$base.$As$the$design$clinic$
scheme$is$focused$on$the$‘real$time’$nature$of$remedies$for$real$issues,$for$this$
cluster,$we$chose$to$look$at$the$most$needed$issue$of$creating$collective$
awareness$among$the$artisans$regarding$the$future$growth$of$the$industry.$$The$
workshop$focused$on$participatory$activities$like$group$analysis,$mapping$and$
representing$actionable$ideas$to$regenerate$screw$pine$in$the$surrounding$areas$
to$the$panchayat$leader.$The$main$outcomes$are:$
•  The$panchayat$leader$promised$to$allocate$resources$and$common,$unused$
lands$for$the$plantation$of$screwSpine$under$the$MNRGEA$/$social$forestry$
programme,$on$the$grounds$that$the$thorny$plant$is$crucial$for$soil$protection$
on$the$coastline.$
•  Funds$for$a$training$programme$for$the$younger$generation$under$
employment$schemes$in$the$up$coming$budget.$$
•  KSID$would$also$contribute$some$new$saplings$of$the$thornSless$screw$pine$to$
the$regeneration$without$waiting$for$a$programme$of$a$massSscale.$$$
•  The$handout$distributed$had$several$new$product$ideas$for$the$local$tourist$
market,$which$were$discussed$in$detail.$
Besides$these,$the$expert’s$speech$on$grassroots$women’s$industry,$the$group$
mapping$sessions$built$conMidence$&$awareness$for$the$participants.$&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
95&
Day'2:'Photographs''''

Presen;ng&NAS&to&the∥cipants&and&a&special&session&with&the&panchayat&leader&Smt.Shylaja&to&
stress&on&the&importance&of&screwpine&planta;on&in&the&village.&

Expert&speaker&Smt.Thangam&rela;ng&her&unit’s&experience&on&
produc;on&/&marke;ng&

Group&discussion&in&the&process&of&mapping&
changes&and&analysing&adverse&and&posi;ve&
factors.&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
96&
Above:&the&hand&out.&
Right:&'Forcefield&analysis'&map&which&
lists&the&posi;ve&and&nega;ve&factors&
affec;ng&the&industry.&&
Below:&The&’then&and&now’&map&
discussiing&the&changes&in&the&industry&in&
the&last&10&years.&The∥cipants&
collec;vely&contributed&ideas&in&the&
mapping&process&which&can&be&an&
important&planning&tool&in&the&revival&of&
the&industry.&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
97&
MSME&&Design&Clinic&Workshop&&at&Thazhava&[&Force&field&analysis&map&

The$mapping$exercise$is$meant$to$look$at$what$can$bring$
positive$change$in$a$situation:$Supporting$factors$on$one$
side$and$Resisting$factors$on$the$other$side.$By$plotting$the$
factors$on$a$scale$of$1$to$10$on$each$side,$the$forceSMield$
analysis$also$looks$at$the$strength$of$these$factors.$The$
reproduction$of$the$map$in$English$is$as$follows:$

+'Suppor-ve'Factors' _'Resis-ng'‘Blocking'Factors'
&&&&&&&&&Less&0&to&5&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&More&5&to&10& More&5&to&10&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&Less&0&to&5&

Raw&materials&Cost,&availability&& Problem&in&Screw&pine&
genera;on&&&&under&u;liza;on&
of&own&land&for&planta;on&

Suppor;ve&local&governance& Low&wage&
Family&support&for&work&
Compe;;on&from&other&work&/&
Working&capital&
screw[pine&workers&going&off&to&
New&models,&designs& other&work&

Produc;on&skills& External&Market&linkage&
Co[opera;on&among& Own&ini;a;ve&for&marke;ng&
ar;sans&
Market&demand&for& Insincere&govt&/&&
products& NGO&interven;on&
Entrepreneurship&

&&&&&&&&&Less&0&to&5&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&More&5&to&10& More&5&to&10&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&Less&0&to&5&

From$this,$the$project$planners$can$hear$the$industry’s$voice$and$accordingly$
strengthen$the$positive$factors$and$weed$out$or$rectify$the$negative$aspects.$It$
is$important$to$go$into$details$of$each$negative$and$weigh$the$implications$
before$rushing$into$new$projects.$

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
98&
MSME&&Design&Clinic&Workshop&&&&
Day&3&–&31&May&2014&
Venue:&Hotel&lake&Palace,&Kollam.&(Straw&picture&craO)&
Design&Expert:&Hema&Raghunathan&
Expert&Speaker:&Mr.Manohar&Raja,&senior&ar;st&&&painter,&Chennai.&
Brief&Pro9ile:&
G.Manohar$Raja$completed$his$a$degree$in$visual$communication$from$the$
College$of$Arts$and$Crafts,$Chennai$in$1984.$After$a$few$years$of$working$$as$a$
designer$and$graphic$artist$in$companies,$he$has$been$pursuing$painting$as$his$
full$time$passion.$$Between$1992$and$2014,$he$has$held$several$one$man$
shows$and$over$20$group$shows$at$prestigious$art$galleries$across$India.$He$
has$also$been$invited$to$3$artist$camps$by$the$All$India$Fine$Art$&$Craft$Society$
as$well$as$highSproMile$companies$such$as$the$Taj$Group$and$BMW.$His$
collections$can$be$seen$in$atleast$20$ofMices$in$India,$china,$USA$–$ranging$from$
the$income$tax$ofMice$to$the$Canadian$consulate$and$the$Chola$Sheraton$group.$$
His$has$experimented$with$many$styles$–$realistic,$abstract$and$impressionist$
depending$on$his$inspirations.$$He$has$also$worked$with$the$Straw$picture$
artists$of$Kollam$a$few$years$ago$on$a$design$workshop$organized$by$KSID$
and$gained$many$insights$when$he$helped$them$create$modern$style$still$life,$
a$departure$from$the$conventional$themes.$$$
&
Programme'Schedule'
Morning&Sessions:$
1.  Presentation$of$NAS$and$related$interaction$$
2.  Reinventing$the$value$proposition$of$the$product:$Sharing$case$studies$in$
art/painting$marketing$$$
3.  Frames$for$value$addition$with$actual$samples.$
4.  Moisture$&$humidity$protection$–$use$of$silica$gel$(Hema)$
&
Afternoon&sessions:$
5.  $Value$addition$tips$with$new$fabrics,$packaging$and$display.$$$
6.  Branding$/$Logo$development$&$waste$pieces$recycling$as$a$collective,$
hands$on$exercise.$$
$$
Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
99&
MSME&&Design&Clinic&Workshop&Par;cipants&List&&&&
Venue:&Hotel&lake&Palace,&Anchalummood,&Kollam.&
Dates:&&31&May&2014&

S.No% Name%and%address%of%unit% Participant%Name% Contact%


%
1% Quilon%Handicrafts%Cooperative%society,% Ajitha%%D% 0474C2700357%
Perinad% Santhakumari% 8606331964%
%
2% Ashtamudi%SHG,%Perinad,%Kollam% Thankamony%%D% 8129064417%
3% Gurukala%Handicrafts,%Kottakkakam,% Geetha%%A% 9995308510%
Perinad,%Kollam%
4% Mahatma%SHG,%Mathilil,%Perinad,%Kollam% Kavita%%V% 9747609503%
Moly%Francis% 9747622120%
Susamma%Yesudasan% 9895662047%
%
5% Kiran%Straw%Arts,%Ambazhavayal,%Perinad,% Lubutha% 0474C2553223%
Kollam% S.%Chandrababu% 9495018788%
6% Vishnu%arts%and%crafts%entre,%Mathilil,% %Ajitha%%S% 0474C2705251%
Perinad,%kollam% Leelakumari%%P% 0474C2705251%
7% Mudiyil%Handicrafts,%Ambazhavayal,% Babu%Achari%%V% 9526652202%
Perinad,%Kollam% Rahul%Krishna% 9388144715%
Radhakrishna%pillai% 9388144715%
%
8% Mahatma%SHG,%Kadavoor,%Perinad,%Kollam% Chitralekha%%R% 8606462168%
Girija%%S% 9446834174%
Gopalakrishna%pillai% 0474C2706874%
%

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
100&
Opportunity&/&Problem&areas&identi9ied&&
&&Remedial&solutions&discussed&at&the&workshop:&
Raw&material:&
•  Silica$gel$can$be$used$to$combat$moisture$and$humidity$related$issues$when$
storing$raw$material$as$well$as$Minal$product.$Many$frames$warp$due$to$the$back$
waters’$humidity$through$the$year.$$
•  The$current$method$for$buying$straw$is$individual$purchase$in$the$post$harvest$
season$from$farms.$Prices$and$quality$can$Mluctuate$hence$units$can$pool$in$
resources$together$and$do$a$collective$purchase.$Self$help$groups$and$societies$
are$already$in$place$which$can$be$leveraged$here.$
•  Small$strips$of$the$base$board$are$thrown$away$by$the$units$(measuring$about$
2”in$width).$This$can$be$converted$into$interesting$pieces$of$art$work$and$the$
individual$strips/panels$can$be$stitched$or$glued$together.$The$result$would$be$a$
foldable$panel$which$can$work$wonders$for$the$value$addition$&$design$novelty.$$$$
&
Infrastructure&and&equipment:&
•  At$present,$cutting$of$board,$cloth$are$done$at$the$local$printing$presses$which$
imposes$additional$work$burden.$A$common$facility$center$with$equipment$for$
basic$processes$is$desirable$which$can$be$used$by$all$units$in$Kollam.$
•  Equipment$like$electrical$driers$are$necessary$too$in$the$common$facility$center.$
•  Though$this$is$one$of$the$rare$craft$process$to$use$tables/chairs,$long$hours$of$
bending$over$intricate$work$and$its$impact$on$the$body$need$to$be$studied$along$
with$lighting$requirements.$
&
Value&Addition:&
•  The$background$fabric,$black$cotton$poplin$has$become$too$common$for$any$
differentiation.$Different$colours,$textures$and$even$prints$need$to$be$explored.$
From$the$samples$shown$at$the$workshop,$silk$was$deemed$unsuitable$for$the$
adhesive$but$they$felt$that$any$form$of$cotton$was$workable.$
•  Most$of$the$themes$revolve$around$the$backwater$scenes$which$has$become$all$
too$common.$Different$themes$and$individual$signature$styles$too$have$to$be$
developed.$Mr.Manohar$spoke$at$length$with$examples$from$his$own$work$on$
evolving$a$signature$style.$$

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
101&
•  Frames$go$a$long$way$in$enhancing$the$value$of$the$picture.$Various$samples$of$
frames$were$shown$along$with$costs$by$Manohar.$Some$of$the$straw$pictures$
were$immediately$mounted$in$front$of$the$participants$to$explain$the$new$
developments$in$technology$that$can$be$beneMicial$to$the$old$style$of$framing.$He$
even$gave$them$the$contacts$in$Chennai$on$hearing$that$in$a$small$town$like$
Kollam$these$resources$are$expensive.$

Display&and&PoP&features&that&can&help&boost&sales:&
The$present$practice$of$storing$the$pictures$safely$in$a$steel$Almirah$may$be$OK$for$
protection$but$the$units$need$a$viable$display$system$to$appeal$to$the$visitors$At$
outlets$like$Kairali$/$Surabhi$too$,$no$attention$is$paid$to$the$effective$display$of$the$
picture$as$piece$of$wall$art.$Several$suitable$images$of$display$stand$structures$were$
shown$in$the$presentation$and$hand$out$to$remedy$this$problem.$$Features$like$
hooks$/$handles$to$hand$the$picture$have$to$be$reMined$too.$
&
Branding:&
In$the$current$scenario,$there$is$no$way$a$new$buyer$would$know$that$this$is$
handmade$with$natural$materials,$including$the$adhesive,$the$Arabic$gum.$To$
demonstrate$what$market$communication$can$do,$a$quick$exercise$was$executed$on$
label$design$on$the$spot.$The$label$holds$a$small$(3cm$X$3cm)$black$frame$for$
creating$straw$art$and$a$concise$write$up$on$the$craft.$This$can$be$printed$as$an$
umbrella$branding$label$which$the$individual$units$can$customise$with$artwork$as$
well$as$address.$Together$with$a$good$frame$the$label$can$improve$the$market$
perception$of$straw$picture$as$an$established,$ecoSfriendly$green$product.$$$
$
Market&Promotion:&
Straw$picture$currently$ahs$a$very$ambivalent$identity$as$neither$art$nor$craft.$
Unless$it$is$promoted$as$an$art$form$and$accordingly$the$skills$are$improved,$it$does$
not$face$a$bright$future.$Examples$were$shown$of$Indian$traditional$art$forms$such$
as$Warli$painting$and$how$they$have$been$successfully$crossed$over$from$çraft$to$
art$forms.$But$a$conscious$attitude$change$is$needed$in$the$value$chain$from$the$
artisan$to$the$emporium$to$achieve$this.$Branding$is$a$part$of$this$exercise.$

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
102&
Day'3:'Photographs''''

NAS&presenta;on&&&discussion.&
Below:Sample&of&Orissa&plam&leaf&strip&pain;ng&to&u;lize&the&leO&waste&pieces&from&units&&&silica&gel&scahets&

Manohar&Raja&showing&differnt&types&of&
framesscahets&&&speaking&on&art&marke;ng&&&style&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
103&
The&differnt&fabrics&shown&
Par;cipants&with&the&Hand&out&

Hands[on&label&development&exercise&as&past&of&branding&awareness&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
104&
Kacchi&padam’&or&the&straw&picture&art&of&Kollam&
is&a&unique&way&of&arvully&re[cycling&hay,&a&
delicate&fibre&from&the&paddy&crop.&Each&frame&is&
inspired&by&the&quaint&backwater&scenes&of&
Kerala&&&many&other&themes&and&brought&to&life&
with&the&golden&hues&of&the&natural&fibre&on&
fabric&or&paper&background.&&
The&artwork&of&the&label.&Size&8cm&X&4cm.& Hand&made&in&India&with&natural&and&eco[
The&black&frame&is&for&customising&with& friendly&materials&by&
Unit&name&&&address:&
individual&unit’s&logo&in&real&straw.&& &
The&write&up&placed&in&the&white&frame&
explains&the&handcraOed&process&and&natural&
materials.&&&&

The&differnt&types&of&
labels&developed&by&
ar;sts&with&starw&in&their&
individual&styles&
&Posi;on&of&the&label&on&
the&frame&at&the&back.&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
105&
Opportunity&/&Problem&areas&identi9ied&&
&&Remedial&solutions&discussed&at&the&workshop:&
&
Raw&material&Damage:&The$palm$leaf$comes$from$Tamilnadu$border$owing$to$
better$availability$of$labour$and$lower$prices$but$the$quality$guarantee$is$not$always$
there.$For$handicraft,$tender$leaves$are$preferred$as$they$dye$better$and$have$more$
pliability.$This$means$procuring$palm$leaf$in$season$and$storing$it$until$use$in$the$
humid$weather$of$Kerala,$with$the$result$that$the$leaves$turn$a$dull$yellow$brown$
from$off$white.$AntiSfugal$treatment$demonstrated$a$few$days$ago$at$the$Alleppy$
DCW$came$in$handy$and$it$was$explained$to$the$participants.$$
Natural$coloured$baskets$can$turn$dull$too.$One$of$the$units$practice$a$fumigation$
technique$with$Sulphur$leaving$it$overnight$in$a$closed$room$with$the$products$over$
night$to$brighten$the$colour$as$the$sulphur$disinfects$the$fungus.$Though$we$did$not$
have$the$time$to$do$a$demonstration,$$she$agreed$to$hold$one$for$the$units$of$
Gramseva$Bhavan$as$a$training$later.$
$
Product&Improvement:&Pulling$back$the$appeal$of$the$products$was$mainly$the$$
colour$combinations$–natural$off$white$of$the$palm$leaf$is$combined$with$bright$
colours$in$stark$contrast.$While$it$is$deMinitely$a$good$proposition$to$do$muted$
natural$dyes$shades$and$allSnatural$product$range,$bright$colours$also$are$in$
demand$in$the$right$combinations.$A$detailed$presentation$on$colour$combinations$
for$natural$Mibres$was$made$taking$examples$from$other$materials$and$store$bought$
samples.$Tips$on$the$harmony$route$like$:$combining$two$dark$colours$/$two$shades$
of$the$same$colour$(light$blue$and$dark$blue)$and$classic$contrast$(black$and$
natural)$were$given$with$examples.$
Improving$handles$and$adding$compartments$in$a$plain$basket$were$explained$with$
photographs$in$the$hand$outs.$
&
Product&Development:&A$whole$new$product$has$been$developed$(the$serial$bulb$
decoration$with$palm$leaf$cubes)$which$has$multiSmarket$appeal.$Master$artisan$
Thangajothi$trained$participants$to$execute$small$playful$items$like$birds$and$roses$
which$was$very$interesting$to$the$participants$as$they$kept$practicing.$Hence$the$
product$development$exercise$also$doubled$as$skill$up$gradation$in$a$thumbnail.&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
106&
&
Value&addition:&TieSdyeing$of$the$Mibre$was$demonstrated$by$Thangajothi.$Partial$
dyeing$of$the$Mibre,$when$woven$into$basket$or$mat,$improves$the$appeal$&$value$of$
the$product$with$very$little$extra$effort.$$
Though$we$had$scheduled$natural$dyeing$in$the$sessions,$we$could$not$get$good$
results$with$the$trail.$It$should$actually$be$a$stand$alone$exercise$and$not$as$a$part$of$
a$short$term$workshop$like$this.$$
To$improve$the$appeal$of$the$ordinary$baskets$that$have$become$too$common,$a$
handsSon$exercise$of$combining$the$knotting$&$weaving$techniques$in$the$same$
form$was$given.$The$resulting$form$is$interesting$and$eyeScatching.$$$
$$
Mapping&for&Awareness:&A$group$analysis$enlisting$the$Strengths,$Weeknesses,$
Opportunities$and$Constarints$of$working$as$a$producer$group$was$made$at$the$end$
of$the$workshop.$This$led$to$a$detailed$discussions$on$the$coSrelation$between$
threats$/$concerns$and$strengths$and$how$one$offsets$the$other.$Most$of$the$inputs$
came$from$the$participants$themselves$as$a$Mirst$step$towards$building$awareness$
about$their$own$startSup$units$breaking$away$from$the$traditional$mode$of$a$lone$
individual$working$from$home$for$small$earnings.$A$reproduction$of$their$
SWOC$(or$SWOT)$analysis$here:$&

Weeknesses''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''
Strengths'''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''
Women&unity& Design&Diversity&not&sufficient&
Income& Dyeing&know[how&low&
Bulk&orders& Inadequate&markets&
Good&rela;onships& Irregular&orders&
Financial&support&(bank/govt&schemes)& &
& &
Opportuni-es' Constraints'/'Threats'''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''
Village&level&programs&/&schemes&& Raw&material&quality&unpredictability&&&
Exhibi;ons&in&ci;es& shortage&
Networking&with&others& Fungus&/&dulling&of&fibre&on&storage&
Market&research&&&technology&research& &
& &
&
' Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
107&
MSME&&Design&Clinic&Workshop&&&
Day&4:&2&June&2014&(palm&leaf)&
Venue:&Grama&Seva&Bhavan,&Thirupuram,&Neyya;nkara.&
Design&expert:&Hema&Raghunathan&
Expert&Speaker:&Shri.&George&Verghese,&Retd.&Dep.Director&(DCH)&
Master&Trainer:&Smt.&Thangajyothi&
'
Brief&Pro9ile:&
Shri.George$Verghese$joined$the$OfMice$of$the$Development$Commisioner$
(Handicrafts)$in$1980$and$retired$after$32$years$of$active$service$in$the$vaiuos$
marketing$extension$centers$of$DCH$&$the$regional$ofMice$in$Chennai.$He$has$
worked$in$Gujarat,$Tamilnadu$and$Kerala$and$has$several$achievements$to$his$
credit$as$a$government$ofMicer$–$he$was$no$1$in$the$implementation$of$welfare$
schemes,$workshed$&$insurace$schemes$etc.,$and$reached$out$to$hundereds$of$
obscure$artisans$at$the$grassroots$level.$Of$all$these,$he$is$best$known$for$issuing$
over$100,000$ID$crads$to$practising$artisans$so$that$they$could$stand$to$beneMit$
from$the$DCH$schemes.$Highly$popular$among$the$rural$producers$for$his$noS
nonsense,$dynamic$working$$style,$he$is$in$demand$after$his$retirement$as$a$
speaker,$advisor$and$mentor$to$a$large$number$of$voluntary$organizations$in$the$
region.$$$$$$$
&
Programme'Schedule'
Morning&Sessions$
1.  Inaugural$Address$By$Shri.Thirupuram$Gopan,$Chairman,$Gramaseva$Bhavan$
2.  Presentation$of$NAS$and$related$interaction$$
3.  Economic$and$social$potential$for$natural$Mibre$enterprises$and$rural$
entrepreneurship$–$guest$speaker$session.$
&
Afternoon&Sessions$
4.  Samples$of$exemplary$palm$leaf$work:$presentation$and$discussion.$
5.  Product$development$discussion$and$handSout$distribution.$
6.  Training$by$Thangajothi$on$new$weaving$techniques.$
&
&
&
Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
108&
Day'4:'Photographs''''

Inaugura;on,&NAS&presenta;on&&&discussion.&
Mr.&George&Verghese&at&the&workshop&session.&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&Par;cipants&looking&through&the&NAS&document&&

Discussion&on&samples&regarding&quality,&design&innova;on&and&pricing.&&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
109&
Day'4:'Photographs''''

Busy&with&product&&&skill&training&

First&sketchy&sample&of&serial&bulbs&with&
palm&covering&aimed&at&local&market&sales&

Some&quick&workshop&pilots:&
Basket&made&by&combininf&differnt&
techniques&of&basketry&and&a&bird&figurine&by&
folding&technique.&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
110&
MSME&&Design&Clinic&Workshop&Par;cipants&List&(22&from&8&units&)&&&
Day&5:&3&June&2014&(palm&leaf)&
Venue:&Grama&Seva&Bhavan,&Thirupuram,&Neyya;nkara.&
Design&expert:&Hema&Raghunathan&
Expert&speaker&and&trainer:&Smt.&Thangajyothi&
'
Brief&Pro9ile:&&
Smt.$Thangajothi$is$a$master$palm$leaf$artisan$from$Punnayadi$in$Nagarcoil$
district.$She$learnt$the$craft$from$her$mother$at$a$very$young$age$and$has$been$
producing$for$the$last$40$years$from$her$home.$$Completely$independent$in$
running$her$unit$as$a$woman$entrepreneur,$she$takes$care$of$her$marketing$
needs$by$regularly$suppling$to$retail$outlets$&$participating$in$select$exhibitions.$
Tangajothy$has$traveled$widely$within$india$and$outside$exhibiting$her$products$
and$collaborating$with$other$artisans$&$designers$on$product$design.$She$is$
highly$valued$for$her$training$programmes$organised$by$Govt$and$private$
agencies,$has$trained$more$than$500$students$in$the$craft.$Received$the$best$
craftsperson$award$in$2004$from$the$Tamilnadu$Government$in$recongition$of$
her$contribution$to$the$palm$leaf$industry.$Thangajothy’s$latest$innovations$
include$crafting$with$local$Mibres$like$pineapple$and$chamba$grass$in$additon$to$
new$products$such$as$$dry$Mlowers$/$bouquet$in$palm$leaf.$$
&
Programme'Schedule'
Morning&Sessions$
1.  Product$development$training$continued$(serial$lamps).$
2.  Training$session$(bird).$
3.  Dyeing$demonstration.$
&
Afternoon&Sessions:$
4.  Anti$fungal$treatment$&$colour$combinations$presentation.$
5.  Group$discussion:$SWOC$analysis$&$mapping.$$
6.  Talk$by$Thangajothi$on$developing$entrepreneurship$and$craftsmanship.$
KSID$interaction$and$conclusion$session.$$$
&
&
&
' Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
111&
Day'5:'Photographs''''

Thangajothy&demonstra;ng&&and&speaking&on& Trainee&learns&new&
craO&entrepreneurship&& techniques&at&the&
workshop&from&
Thangamani’s&crea;on&&
palm&leaf&boquet.'&

Tie&&&dye&technique&
demonstra;on.&

Group&discussions&on&product&improvement&&&
mapping&of&SWOT&analysis&for&the&palm&leaf&
micro&industry.&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
112&
Post'DCW:'Refining'the'inputs'
As$Grama$seva$Bhavan$was$very$keen$on$the$serial$bulbs$idea$becuase$of$its$
relevance$to$the$local$and$external$markets,$they$were$willing$to$develop$it$further$
through$personal$correspondence.$They$have$been$able$to$move$through$much$of$
the$following$steps$in$the$product$development$process:$$$$
•  ReMine$the$palm$leaf$component$through$better$workmanship,$colour$&$$size.$$
•  Resolve$packaging:$Stringing$the$palm$leaf$cubes$on$the$serial$bulb$chain$was$
cumbersome$forboth$production$and$marketing$as$the$wire$gets$entangled.$The$
idea$of$separately$packing$the$cubes$and$serial$bulb$came$about.$Palm$leaf$cubes$
are$woven$optimally$to$let$the$customer$insert$serial$bulbs.$
•  Add$value$by$providing$a$suitable$palm$leaf$basket$and$calling$it$an$activity$kit’$
rather$than$a$serial$bulb$decoration$as$the$former$has$a$far$better$value$
proposition$for$the$buyer$and$hence$can$be$priced$better.$$
•  Optimise$production$costs$by$working$out$the$skill$costs,$raw$material$processing$
(recycling$waste$strips$etc.,)$and$rigurous$production$training.$Bulk$sourcing$of$
serial$bulbs$in$a$nearby$city$like$Trivandrum$also$would$help.$
•  Plan$the$market$launch:$The$kit$involves$further$work$including$a$write$up$on$
Grama$seva$Bhavan,$instruction$to$the$buyer$on$making$the$decoration$and$the$
safety$precautions.$Simple$black$and$white$printing$neatly$laid$out$is$easily$doS
able$even$in$a$small$town$DTP.$Production$tagets$can$be$Mixed$for$Deepavali$to$
christmas$$season$and$acheived$with$planning$resources.$$$$$$

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
113&
MSME&&Design&Clinic&Workshop&Par;cipants&List&&&&
Venue:&Grama&Seva&Bhavan,&Thirupuram,&Neyya;nkara.&
Dates:&&2&&&3&June&2014&

Sl&No& Name&&&Address&of&Unit& Par;cipant&Name& Contact&No.&


&
1& Grama&Seva&Bhavan&Kanchampazhinji&P.O&,& & &
Thirupuram&,&Neyya;nkara&,& Geetha&V.S& 9946311819&
Thiruvananthapuram,&&Kerala&[695525&
& & & &
2& Grama&Deepam&Palm&Leaf&CraO&Cluster& Thankamani.B& 8086542412&
Ar;sans&Fedara;on&,&Kulathoor,&Uchakada&
P.O,&Thiruvanathapuram&[695506&
& & Sheeja&Kumari&R& 8086281801&
3& Grama&Deepam&Palm&Leaf&SHG&,&Kulathoor,&
Sobana&T& 9633250389&
Uchakada&P.O,&Thiruvanathapuram&[695506&
Janet&R& 9446916252&
Sweety&T&S& 9847147973&
Bini&B& 9895595734&
Sudha&K& 9746178532&
& & Vimala&L& 0471[2211686&
4& Grama&Jyothi&Palm&Leaf&SHG&,&Kulathoor,&
Sarija&K.&S& 9496101166&
Uchakada&P.O,&&
Latha.P& 9633975876&
Thiruvanathapuram&[695506&
Preetha&Kumari&S& 9633667601&
Bhavitha&S& 8129930745&

& & Hemalatha&S&K& 9995911379&


5& Grama&Sevini&Palm&Leaf&SHG&Kulathoor,&
Uchakada&P.O,&Thiruvanathapuram&[695506& Malathy&A& 8086698605&
Sudha&S& 9961598197&
& & & &
6& GramaVikasana&Palm&Leaf&SHG&,&Kulathoor,& Prema&Kumari&T& 9746178497&
Uchakada&P.O,&Thiruvanathapuram&[695506&
&
& && Geeta.S&& 9895951278&
7& Grama&Sree&Palm&Leaf&&SHG&
Palamthodam&,Kulathoor&,&Uchakada&P.O& Rakhi&R&V& 9895363298&
Neyya;nkara&,&Thiruvananthapuram,&&&&&&&
Kerala&[&695506&& &Minimol&C& 8156858533&
&
& & Usha&Kumari&O& 9633589909&
8& Adithya&Mahila&Samajam&Aralumoodu&P.O&
Neyya;nkara&695123& Sakunthala&N& 9995174092&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
114&
Poten-al'Design'Projects'

Branding:&Kerala$being$a$popular$tourist$destination$on$account$of$its$natural$
beauty$and$Ayurvedic$legacy,$the$natural$Mibre$industry$of$the$state$can$beneMit$
from$the$association.$An$umbrella$branding$of$Kerala$Natural$Fibre$Crafts$would$
boost$the$the$industry.$Other$backward$integration$linkages$such$as$certiMication$
of$authenticity,$process$documentation$etc,$need$to$be$part$of$the$branding$
exercise$in$order$to$beneMit$the$industry.$$$$
&
Display&kiosks&at&resorts/&beaches&for&Market&Promotion&&&linkages:&
One$of$the$most$urgent$and$relevant$needs$of$the$hour.$Many$units$cannot$reach$
out$to$the$tourist$buyers$right$at$their$doorstep$as$they$lack$neat$display$devices.$
$
Comprehensive&website&for&Market&Promotion:&The$websites$of$large$Govt$
bodies$like$Surabhi$and$Kairali$do$not$have$much$realStime$information$of$
processes,$product$details$to$make$the$sales$pitch$attractive.$The$websites$need$
to$be$beefed$up$with$information,$$online$sales$and$more$stories.$
&
R&&&D&for&tourism&oriented&design:&Much$of$the$design$that$happens$is$adShoc$
thanks$to$the$policy$of$believing$that$the$designer$needs$no$orientation.$A$proper$
market$research$focusing$on$crafts$for$the$tourist$market$is$necessary.$The$
Mindings$can$be$used$by$individual$units$to$base$deMine$their$design$inputs.$
&
Technical&Research&on&antiYfungal&treatment:&Considering$Kerala$Coir$Board$
has$extensive$scientiMic$knowledge$of$antifungal$and$other$treatments,$it$is$
surprising$that$no$knowledge$exists$among$other$natural$Mibre$producers$for$
these$needs.$Far$eastern$countries$like$Philippines,$Malaysia$having$similar$
weather$conditions$have$been$producing$for$the$competitive$international$
markets$with$natural$Mibre$crafts$after$extensive$R$&$D$and$information$
dissemination$to$producers.$The$treatments$&$scalability$also$needs$to$be$so$
designed$that$$appropriate$institutional$arrangements$like$mass$buying,$
treatment$and$warehousing$reach$the$last$mile$to$the$producer.$
&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
115&
Workstation&&&Ergonomic&Research:&In$the$case$of$the$micro$industry$that$
uses$hand$skills,$it$is$never$clear$whether$the$practical$working$postures$
(namely$sitting$on$the$ground)$are$necessarily$bad$and$if$so$what$is$the$
alternative?$Given$the$simple$tools,$the$artisan$ends$up$using$her$bodyweight$to$
tackle$the$materials.$It$is$not$realistic$and$even$counterSproductive$for$many$to$
work$in$a$factory$like$atmosphere$outside$the$home.$A$practical,$insightful$study$
into$the$ergonomic$issues$without$undue$assumptions$is$necessary$for$the$
industry.$
&
Looms&for&Natural&9ibre&Weaving:&Natural$Mibres$come$in$many$forms$but$all$
lend$themselves$to$either$weaving$or$basketry$or$both.$Loom$weaving$is$a$viable$
skill$up$gradation$step$for$many$units$(and$a$good$route$for$product$
diversiMication)$in$these$clusters.$However,$the$weaving$training$and$equipment$
are$found$daunting$by$a$typical$basket$maker,$who$is$not$used$to$handling$
equipment$at$all.$This$is$because$the$loom$is$primarily$designed$for$fabric$
weaving$to$handle$the$density$&$length$of$threads.$Natural$Mibre$weaving$does$
not$warrant$such$Mine$–weaving$in$general.$Hence,$a$smart$design$adaptation$of$
the$conventional$loom$is$needed$to$accommodate$the$shorter$lengths$of$natural$
Mibres,$width/Mlatness,$end$use$of$the$product$etc.,$so$that$weaving$becomes$an$
attractive$option$for$the$basket$maker.$$$
$
$

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
116&
Conclusion'

The$natural$Mibre$Industry$of$these$clusters$seem$to$be$unfortunately$on$a$
declining$curve,$hemmed$between$raw$material$issues$on$the$one$hand$and$
weak$market$linkages$on$the$other.$Although$Kerala$ranks$very$high$on$indexes$
like:$per$capita$income,$literacy$and$overall$human$development$index,$the$
industrial$development$is$very$low$even$in$the$case$of$ecoSfriendly$micro$
industries,$given$the$state’s$abundant$natural$resource$base,$dignity$of$labour,$
and$craft$skills.$$
$
As$seen$in$the$NAS,$both$longSterm$and$shortSterm$problems$are$waiting$to$be$
addressed$and$the$Design$clinic$workshops$focused$on$the$immediately$doSable$
aspects$relevant$for$that$particular$cluster.$However,$the$remedial$approach$
needs$to$be$augmented$with$the$suggested$list$of$design$/$technical$projects$too.$$
It$was$positive$to$note$the$voluntary$participation$of$many$units,$even$the$ones$
who$were$not$part$of$the$initial$study$in$the$Design$Clinic$Workshop.$The$$
turnSout$was$more$than$anticipated,$consisting$mostly$women$producers$from$
their$own$units.$They$responded$well$to$the$information$and$discussion$based$
approach$of$the$DCW.$There$was$considerable$interest$that$the$participants$
showed$in$the$participatory$mapping$exercises.$With$proper$planning$and$a$
vibrant$approach,$the$mapping$process$can$become$a$good$planning$tool$to$
restore$the$health$of$the$$industry,$improve$the$accountability$of$agencies$and$
put$the$right$policies$in$place.$
$
The$most$rewarding$aspect$of$the$DCW$was$to$see$the$useful$information$
networking$that$took$place.$$The$Palm$leaf$cluster$has$proposed$a$skill$training$
programme$with$the$DCW$master$trainer;$the$panchayat$leader$of$Thazhava$
cluster$became$aware$of$the$industry’s$situation$and$is$keen$to$help;$Kollam$
artisans$were$able$to$get$sources$for$good$frames$through$the$expert$speaker$
etc.,$There$were$some$amusing$moments$too:$the$notion$of$design$as$stated$by$a$
micro$industry$producer$in$a$semi$urban$area$ranges$from$new$models$to$new$
colours$to$increased$sales$and$nothing$of$the$system$design$designers$believe$
themselves$to$be$a$part$of.$The$recognition$of$design$somehow$seems$to$be$for$
what$it$physically$delivers$rather$than$how$it$can$reconMigure$a$situation$for$
desirable$changes.&

Kerala&Natural&Fibre&&&&&&&February&2014&
Design&Clinic&
117&

You might also like