DRAFTING AND GRADING OF PRODUCTION PATTERNS
Short History of Pattern Drafting
For hundreds of years, fit was not considered
particularly important when it came to clothing.
Clothing was largely utilitarian and the most
important feature of any garment was that it
covered your body. As the concept of fashion
advanced, fit began to emerge as a way to create
desired body shapes or to make clothing more
comfortable or functional. But, initially, fit was
considered a luxury – something only the wealthy
had the disposable income to worry with. More
affluent families could hire tailors or
dressmakers to custom sew garments, but the
average citizen made their own, or reworked
hand-me-down clothes.
In 1589 Juaan De Alcega’s Libro de Geometria Practica y
Traca and in 1618 La Rocha Burguen’s Geometrica y
Traca was released. The first known clothing patterns
that appeared in Spain.
In 1700’s, L’Art du Tailleur by De Garsault and
Diderot’s L’Encyclopédie Diderot et D’Alembert: arts de
l’habillement was released, which provided instruction
on measurement, cutting, garment fit, and construction.
In 1800’s, The Workman’s Guide provided not just
patterns, but also detailed drawings of the final
garments, and pattern drafting instruction.
PATTERN DRAFTING
MEASURING
The measurements are taken based upon a model, which
is either a human being or an approximation of one, and
depending upon the type of garment to be made.
PATTERN DRAWING
Once the measurements have been taken, the foundation
or basic pattern is created. This starts off with a
wireframe which generally outlines the length and width
of the pattern piece, and then is gradually developed into
one of the pieces of the pattern set.
PATTERN SET CREATION
With manual patternmaking, the pattern set is usually not
developed in a "block" method; individual parts are
drawn onto pattern paper one at a time, and then
assembled onto the material from which the patterns
are being cut.
THE 3 PATTERN MAKING METHODS
PATTERN DRAFTING METHOD
Pattern drafting method is mainly depends on accurate
measurements taken on a person, dress or dummy. To
complete the pattern, measurements are taken for
chest, waist, hip and so on, and ease allowances are
marked on paper and construction lines are drawn also.
This drafting method is used to made basic, foundation
or design patterns. Basic pattern set is the example of
drafting method.
PATTERN DRAPING METHOD
Pattern draping method is a three-dimensional process
of pattern making. In this pattern making method, muslin
cloth is used to drape over a human body or on a
mannequin.
FLAT PATTERN MAKING METHOD
Flat paper pattern making method is used to the
development of a fitted basic pattern with ease
movement and comfort to fit a person or body form. For
developing a standard pattern, it is the fastest and most
efficient method, so that the basic block is modified to
create new and various styles. It is dependent on
previously developed patterns.
PATTERN GRADING
METHODS OF PATTERN GRADING
(Charlene)
There are three basic methods of grading: Cut and
Spread, Pattern Shifting, and Computer Grading.
No one method is technically superior and all are equally
capable of producing a correct grade.
CUT AND SPREAD METHOD
The easiest method, which is the basis of the other two
methods, is to cut the pattern and spread the pieces by a
specific amount to grade up, or overlap them to grade
down
PATTERN SHIFTING
Pattern shifting is the process of increasing the overall
dimensions of a pattern by moving it a measured
distance up and down and left and right, (using a
specially designed ruler) and redrawing the outline, to
produce the same results as the cut-and-spread method
COMPUTER GRADING
This is the fastest method, but tends to be an investment
only larger manufacturers can afford. However,
sophisticated home computer software is becoming
affordable.
References:
https://www.google.com/search?q=short+histo
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https://www.google.com/search?q=pattern+dr
afting+and+grading+by+michael+rohr&rlz=1C1C
HBF_enPH861PH861&oq=pattern+draf&aqs=ch
rome.2.69i57j0j69i59l2j69i60l2.4919j0j9&sourc
eid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
https://www.google.com/search?q=pattern+gr
ading+image&rlz=1C1CHBF_enPH861PH861&o
q=patter&aqs=chrome.2.69i59j69i57j69i59j69i6
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https://www.google.com/search?q=methods+o
f+pattern+making&rlz=1C1CHBF_enPH861PH86
1&oq=methods+of+patter&aqs=chrome.0.0j69i
57j0l4.5319j1j9&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8