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LONDONTIME
German
RACING ONWARDS
ago, back when TAG Heuer was just
Heuer (the company was bought out
by Techniques d’Avant Garde in
1985) and the world was about to
get into its Swinging ‘60s stride.
Company boss Jack Heuer had the
idea for his new chronograph
wristwatch after a conversation
with Mexican race driver Pedro
Rodriguez, who had told him about
a furiously quick five-day road race
called the Carrera Panamericana.
The race was full of glamour and
panache, and the jet set flocked to
see professional drivers and rich
amateurs hurtling along Mexico’s
dusty roads. But it was also
incredibly dangerous, and was
cancelled after claiming 27 lives
between 1950 to 1954.
Nevertheless, Heuer seized on the
machismo of the event. Carrera
means “road” and “career” in
Spanish, and he felt the name
would appeal to ambitious, red-
blooded, sophisticated men
emerging as the world left behind
the shackles of the post-war era.
MODERNIST, MINIMALIST
His design was lithe, handsome and
undeniably masculine. At the time
most chronographs retained the
military look of those used wartime
pilots, but Heuer, who idolised the
minimalist designs of Oscar
Niemeyer and Charles Eames,
thought it was time watches
embraced the modernist spirit. The
original Carrera, with its sleek,
Robin Swithinbank celebrates 50 years of a true sporting classic
pared-down lines and baton markers cornerstone of TAG’s offering, in a Behling, the mastermind behind the Right, Jack Heuer stripped back watch
rather than numerals, may look collection that includes this year’s asymmetrical case found in last design to its basics with his crisp,
retro today but was as boldly 50th anniversary Carrera Calibre year’s groundbreaking TAG Heuer
minimalist chronograph from 1963
modern as a Lichtenstein comic 1887 Chronograph Jack Heuer Mikrogirder – a mechanical watch
book painting at the time. Edition [£5,295 www.tagheuer.com]. with a stopwatch function that can
It helped transform Heuer from a Jack himself – 81 this year – had a measure to an accuracy of 2,000th of One last thought – Jack Heuer is
company specialising in hand in the design, insisting, for a second – that is used again here. It retiring this year, meaning this will
stopwatches and timing systems for example, that the dial carries baton was also Behling who swung the almost certainly be the last watch
industry into a celebrated prestige hour markers and not numerals, crown and chronograph buttons he has a hand in. Given the fact his
watch producer. In the half century ensuring the unfussy, utilitarian round to 12 o’clock, in part to evoke original Carreras have become
since, it has become one of look the Carrera is famous for. old-school Heuer stopwatches, but exceedingly collectible pieces,
watchmaking’s bona fide icons. Heuer shared design duties with also so the watch could be worn and there’s no reason his last won’t do
Today, it continues to be a London-based designer Christoph operated on either wrist. the same.
One of the most exciting emergent watch brands in any country, The town’s other senior haute horlogerie brand to A Lange & Leaving aside the fact that this was originally designed for You may know the sensational Bond Street boutique, but the
Nomos makes its own movements for its minimalist watches. Sohne specialises in exquisite, unfussy pieces like this new Luftwaffe airmen, a classic retro pilots’ watch retailer also produces its own sensational watches.
£1,530 www.nomos.com stunner. Price on application. www.glashuette-original.com £2,125 from www.stewartswatches.co.uk Price on application. www.wempe.ch
A NEW WAY
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* EXACT AND EXULTANT
ATELIER PARMIGIANI 97 MOUNT STREET, LONDON W1K2TD, TEL. 020 7495 5172
Undersea explorer and former special forces operative Scott Cassell is taking on poachers and drug cartels
E had me pinned underneath relies on his watch, particularly in
SPECIAL FORCES
For a 52-year-old former Special
Forces sniper, combat diving
specialist and sometime mercenary,
with the build of an armoured car
and frontline experiences from any
number of theatres of combat,
Cassell is a surprisingly placid
character. Actually he’s charming,
and has an almost evangelical
fervour for his true love – the sea and
the life within it.
TIME TO
“The oceans globally are in the
process of dying,” he says. “We’re on
an extinction event: we’re watching
temperatures shift, ocean
acidification, systems collapsing.
We’ve only explored about 1 per cent
of the ocean, and in that 1 per cent
we see terrible things happening, so
what’s happening in the other 99
per cent? We don’t know, but what
we do see is very alarming.”
Cassell, who grew up scuba diving
and admits to being more
comfortable under the sea than
above it, has made numerous
underwater films, and led the team
that was the first to film a giant
squid in its natural environment.
He’s even built his own submarine to Luminox Scott Cassell Special
continue exploring and perform Edition Deep Dive Automatic
scientific missions. Like any diver, he £1,595 www.luminox.com
MAGNETIC MOMENTS
MAGNETIC fields are one of the major origins of inaccuracy in watches, causing moving magnetism dating back to the 19th century. Companies then were researching materials
parts of the movement to stick together, repel each other and behave erratically. With that could be used in a movement instead of ferrous steel and brass, but it was not until
more electronic machines producing more magnetic fields, Omega is unveiling the 1930 that this could be successfully used in a wristwatch. It was IWC’s invention of
most powerful anti-magnetic watch yet – the latest in a line of watches battling shielding inside the watch case that really moved things forward in the 1940s.
1989 – IWC Ingenieur 500,000 a/m 1996 – Bell & Ross Bomb Disposal Type
IWC used non-ferrous materials to create a watch that could The young French company making military-style pilots watches created an
resist far higher magnetic forces than anything attempted antimagnetic watch for use by bomb disposal experts.
before. Its timekeeping was unreliable, however, and it was
only produced in small numbers.
1948 – IWC
Schaffhausen Pilot’s 2007 – Milgauss revived
Watch Mark 11 Rolex brought back the Milgauss,
Made for RAF pilots, the Mark 11’s still with 1,000 Gauss resistance. It’s
movement was placed in an inner been a niche favourite with buyers
case of soft iron, which acted like a ever since, particularly in its green-
Faraday cage to deflect magnetic dial incarnation.
fields emanating from cockpit
instruments.
1955 – IWC
Ingenieur 1956 – Rolex Milgauss
IWC introduced the inner 2013 – Omega Seamaster
shielding tech from the Rolex also used the inner
1933 – Tissot Mark 11 to the civilian shielding method for its Milgauss, Aqua Terra 15,000
market in a watch aimed at which could resist fields up to Omega has rewritten the rule book
Antimagnetique engineers and scientists 1,000 Gauss (a fridge magnet is this year with a watch capable of
The first mass-market about 50 Gauss). It was marketed withstanding 15,000 Gauss – enough
working in fast-developing
antimagnetic wristwatch, Tissot’s for scientists at the newly- to see off the magnetism generated
technical areas.
watch used palladium in the opened CERN laboratory. The by an MRI scanner. It uses futuristic
crucial escapement mechanism to following year, Omega made nonmagnetic materials, including
reduce magnetic interference. produced the Railmaster silicon – with no shielding, the
antimagnetic watch as electronic movement can be fully on display.
rail travel proliferated.
FRIDAY 19 APRIL 2013 cityam.com
28 LONDONTIME
HARD-MAN
Ultra-tough materials and suave styling make
for watches that can take on any situation.
We pick 2013’s ultimate tough guy timepieces
OU CAN wear it up a mountain or
Y
1 in the boardroom” – so goes the 2
mantra spoken by those at
Bremont, the British watch
company whose steel watches are
specially hardened through
industrial processes. They’ve got a
point. If you’ve got an active
lifestyle – whether that means
climbing mountains, jumping out
of planes, wasting bad guys on Special Ops missions
(Jaeger-LeCoultre has worked on watches with the
Navy Seals) or particularly intense PlayStation
sessions – it’s worth having a watch that won’t fall
apart on active duty.
Modern watch companies are more than up to the
task. High-tech materials like industrial ceramic and
carbon fibre mix such qualities as lightness, shock
Audemars Piguet – Royal Oak Offshore Diver absorption and serious toughness, while designers Bell & Ross - BR01 Airspeed
The Offshore line is the younger, chunkier, sportier brethren of Audemars Piguet’s have understood how to bring smart clarity and Last year France’s aviation-obsessed brand released three watches directly based on
classic Royal Oak, and this may be one of its strongest models yet. The case is in rock functionality to watches that mark you out as a man cockpit instruments, and this year it presents three more. This punchy number, as its
hard, lightweight black ceramic, and the watch is waterproof to a depth of 300 metres. of action. Even in the boardroom. name suggests, takes its look from the speed indicator. Available in May.
£15,720 www.audemarspiguet.com £3,200 www.bellross.com
3 4 5
Bremont – Supermarine S2000 Graham - Chronofighter Oversize K2 Mountain IWC – Ingenieur Carbon Performance
You want tough? Bremont’s cases are hardened through industrial processes to 2,000 You want tough? It’s got “fighter” in its name, and what resembles a hand grenade Having entered into a partnership with resurgent F1 team Mercedes AMG Petronas, IWC
Vickers, nine times the norm for watch cases. Its new diving piece is also sealed for trigger on the side (actually the start/stop pusher for the chronograph) – this is hardly has been incorporating ideas like the tough-as-a-diamond (literally) carbon fibre here
antimagnetic protection, and waterproof to an incredible 2,000 metres. Looks good a watch for a quiet game of chess. Climb any mountain with this strapped on. used for the case and dial, in F1 used for the entire monocoque of a car.
too. £4,380 www.williamandson.com £18,750 www.iwc.com
6 7 8
Jaeger-LeCoultre – Deep Sea Chronograph Cermet Panerai - Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic Ceramica Ralph Lauren – RL67 Automotive Chronograph
Take lightweight aluminium, strengthen it with particles of ceramic and give it an outer Panerai originally made watches for Italian Navy frogmen, and there’s still a sense of The king of preppy elegance has pulled off something with a much more rugged
protective ceramic coating and you’ve got the rugged material for Jaeger-LeCoultre’s old-fashioned military derring-do to its latest diving piece. The case is scratchproof sensibility than you’d expect – the Jeep-like camo-green case is in innovative titanium
charismatic diving piece, with a groovy red/white on/off indicator for the chronograph. matte ceramic, and at 47mm it’s a whopper. resin – while still retaining his customary classic aesthetic thanks to that burlwood dial.
www.jaeger-lecoultre.com £10,900 www.panerai.com £12,300 www.ralphlaurenwatches.com
AVIATION BR 03-92 AUTOMATIC - VINTAGE BR 126 SPORT CHRONOGRAPH
Bell & Ross UK +44 207 096 0878
information@bellross.com · e-Boutique: www.bellross.com
FRIDAY 19 APRIL 2013 cityam.com
30 LONDONTIME
DAY OR NIGHT
A mother of pearl watch can also be
the perfect transitional piece.
Although women are slowly
catching up with men when it
comes to horologically interesting
watches, in general they are still a
long way from accruing “watch
wardrobes” – a range of watches to
suit different occasions. While an 5
oversized, borrowed-from-the- 6
boyfriend timepiece can work
during the day, it’s hard to make it
work after hours. Conversely, a
delicate cocktail watch jars when
paired with daywear as much as a
high jewellery piece.
Mother of pearl watches, however,
can do the crossover. It was one of
the most famous jewellery houses
that first showed this.
“Without question, Cartier
helped make mother of pearl a
fashion statement,” says fine
jewellery consultant Bronwyn
Cosgrave. “Its workshop did so by
juxtaposing the industrial aesthetic
of its cases and bracelets with the
light, feminine, pink-hued shimmer
of the dial. This strong look means 7 8
that there is no restriction on when
to wear it.”
Zenith’s Ultra Thin Lady
Moonphase, which pairs a nacre
dial with an alligator strap, is a
good example of this. The delicate
shimmer of the mother of pearl dial
may suggest a watch made for the
flickering glow of candlelight, but
by combining such dials with more
everyday elements like steel cases
and leather bracelets, modern
watch houses are proving that this
is a material whose beauty isn’t
dimmed by the harsh light of day.
1. Blancpain Chronograph Grande Date, CHF 40,000, www.blancpain.com 2. Chaumet Montres Precieuses Piece 3, price on application, www.chaumet.com 3. Dior Dior VIII in white ceramic with stainless steel case, £9,300, www.dior.com 4. Hermes Arceau Petit Lune,
£4,850, www.hermes.com 5. Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Duetto Duo, £15,100, www.jaeger-lecoultre.com 6. Montblanc Star Classique,£8,400, www.montblanc.com 7. Zenith Ultra Thin Lady Moonphase, £5,700, www.zenith-watches.com 8. Van Cleef & Arpels
Charms Extraordinaire Muguet, price on application. www.vancleefarpels.com
FRIDAY 19 APRIL 2013 cityam.com
32 LONDONTIME
1 2 3
IN THEIR
RIGHT
MINDS
WOULD PUT
A WATCH
THROUGH
THIS.
BUT
FRANKLY,
MANY
OF OUR
CUSTOMERS
ARE NOT
IN THEIR
RIGHT
MINDS.
Chances are, you’ve never had to eject from So we enlisted the help of none other than (We bombard the steel with electrons to To ensure that the Bremont MB can be
a fighter plane. Martin-Baker, the company that pioneered toughen it up.) read in all conditions we use Grade-A
the ejection seat. Super-Luminova® paint on the dial.
It’s not much fun. (Though, it’s got to be Inside this is a second case, held in place by
said, the alternative is even less fun.) (Thanks to them, more than 7,000 pilots a flexible ring that absorbs any shocks. Then add nine layers of anti-reflective coating
have lived to fly another day.) to the sapphire crystal for maximum clarity.
In the first second after ejection, your body We make the inner case from soft iron and
At their headquarters in Denham, they it forms what’s known as a Faraday Cage, Some might call that excessive. We don’t
is subjected to pressures of up to 30G. Ouch think so.
isn’t the word. subjected our watch to a punishing regime protecting the delicate mechanism inside
of vibration testing, the equivalent of thirty from magnetic fields. A pilot who’s just ejected from his aircraft
Happily, most pilots get through their entire years’ flying. may not know what day it is.
careers without having to exit through the The mechanism itself is assembled by hand
Shaken, but not stirred, it was then time for in our workshop in Henley-on-Thames. But thanks to the Bremont MB, he’ll always
cockpit roof. the ultimate test: the ejection seat. know what time it is.
The movement is 99.998% accurate and
But the possibility is always there. And we Strapped to the vinyl wrist of a crash-test has undergone an arduous fifteen day
built our aviation chronometer, the Bremont dummy, our watch was shot from the certification process conducted by COSC,
MB, with that in mind. cockpit again and again and again. the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing
A pilot’s timepiece, we reasoned, should be Institute.
Yet the Bremont lived to tell the time.
able to withstand everything the pilot does. All of which goes to make a watch that will
How? Well, for starters, the Bremont MB perform way beyond the call of duty.
High altitude. Low temperatures. And is encased in solid steel, seven times harder
unscheduled departures at 500 mph. than the average watch case. Do we stop there? Of course not.