Cutting points – Needles for stitching leather and other materials Cutting points – Needles for stitching leather

Cutting points – Needles for stitching leather and other materials

Choosing the point shape: Application Seam appearance Point shape The right needle size: Continuous filament
The point shape is deter­ Very strong seams P Narrow wedge point Two essential criteria must

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Polyamide 6.6 (Nylon) Polyester

cm11 cm

11 cm
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1cm
mined by the application be taken into account:

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1cm
Fine ornamental seams PCL Narrow wedge point with Application Thread size Needle size Thread size Needle size

cm
1 cm

1 cm

11cm
1
1 cm

1 cm
and the desired seam left twist groove below eye No* tex* NM SIZE No* tex* NM SIZE

1 cm
appearance. PCR Narrow wedge point with 1. Application/ Coarse 4 750 280-330 28-30 4 750 250-300 27-29
right twist groove below eye decorative 5 600 250-300 27-29 5 600 250-280 27-28
sewing thread
seams 6 500 230-250 26-27
Note: P/PCL/PCR The application and the
7 429 230-250 26-27 7 429 200-230 25-26
The seam appearance refers Normal seams S Narrow cross point sewing thread (type and 8/9 375/333 200-250 25-27 8/9 375/333 180-200 24-25

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to needles threaded lateral- size) determine the

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Coarse ornamental seams DI Diamond point

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10/11 300/273 160-230 23-26 10/11 300/273 140-180 22-24

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1cm
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1
ly. It might change signifi- Very straight seams needle size.

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1 cm
12 250 160-230 23-26 12 250 140-180 22-24

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1 cm
Cutting points –
cantly when using machines Coarse 13 231 160-200 23-25 13/14 231/214 130-160 21-23

with needles threaded from 2. Material and material seams 15 200 160-180 23-24 15 200 125-140 20-22
S DI 18 167 120-130 19-21
the front. properties
Decorative seams LR Reverse twist point
The harder and thicker
20 150 120-160 19-23 20
24/25
150
125/120
110-130
100-110
18-21
16-18 Needles for stitching leather
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cm

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cm
cm11 cm

11 cm

cm11 cm

11 cm

cm11 cm

11 cm
(ornamental seams/ VR Reverse twist spear point the material, the thicker

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1cm
and other materials
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1cm
30 100 100-140 16-22 30 100 100-110 16-18
11cm

1cm

11cm

1cm

11cm

1cm
cm

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cm
topstitch seams) 1 cm
LBR Wide reverse twist point
1 cm

11cm

1 cm

1 cm

11cm

1 cm

1 cm

11cm
the needle must be.
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1
1 cm

1 cm

1 cm

1 cm

1 cm

1 cm
Medium 40 75 100-120 16-19 40 75 100-110 16-18
1 cm

1 cm

1 cm
seams 50 60 90-100 14-16
60 50 80-100 12-16 60 50 80-90 12-14
LR VR LBR 70 43 75-80 11-12

© SCHMETZ · Subject to technical modifications · 14215 · 04/2019 - EN

Very straight seams LL Twist point 80-90 38/33 70-90 10-14 80/90 38/33 70-80 10-12
Stay seams 40 75 100-120 16-19 40 75 100-110 16-18
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cm11 cm

11 cm
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(heel seams) 60 50 80-100 12-16 60 50 80-90 12-14

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1 cm

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80/90 38/33 70-90 10-14 80/90 38/33 70-80 10-12

Narrow cross point “S” Diamond point “DI”
1 cm

100 30 65-70 9-10

LL

Core spun
Coarse/normal seams D Triangular point
SCHMETZ Tip:
Cross seams DH Half triangular point
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These tables only include

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Polyester/Cotton Polyester/Polyester
Narrow wedge point “P” Reverse twist spear point “VR”
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the most common sewing

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Application Thread size Needle size Thread size Needle size

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threads. Cotton threads, No* tex* NM SIZE No* tex* NM SIZE

sewing silk and embroidery Coarse 4 750 230-280 26-28

D DH
decorative 5 600 180-250 24-27
Embroidery R Normal round point
thread have been omitted
seams 6 500 180-200 24-25
Special features, SD1 Round point with small
for the sake of clarity.
8 375 180-200 24-25 8 375 160-200 23-25 Reverse twist point “LR” Round point with small
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e.g. appliqué triangular tip

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12 250 160-180 23-24 12 250 140-180 22-24

1cm

1cm

triangular tip “SD1”

11cm

1cm

11cm

1cm
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cm

If you have specific ques-

1 cm

1 cm

11cm

1 cm

1 cm

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1

Coarse 15 200 140-160 22-23

1 cm

1 cm

1 cm

1 cm
1 cm

1 cm

tions concerning these seams 20 150 140-160 22-23 20 150 120-160 19-23

R SD1 threads, please ask your 24 125 130-160 21-23

thread manufacturer. 25 120 120-140 19-22 25 120 110-140 18-22

Multidirectional sewing SD1 Round point with small
triangular tip 28 107 120-140 19-22 Wide reverse twist point “LBR” Half triangular point “DH”
30 100 120-140 19-22 30 100 110-130 18-21
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cm11 cm

11 cm
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35/36 86/83 110-130 18-21 35/36 86/83 100-120 16-19

1cm
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1 cm

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Medium 40 75 100-120 16-19 40 75 100-110 16-18

1 cm

1 cm
1 cm

seams 50 60 100-110 16-18 50 60 90-100 14-16

SD1 60/75 50/40 90-100 14-16 60/75 50/40 90-100 14-16
80 38 90-100 14-16 80 38 80-90 12-14
Twist point “LL” Triangular point “D”
Material combinations, R Normal round point
composites: 90 33 80-90 12-14
SD1 Round point with small * No = Label number
– Garments triangular tip 100 30 80-90 12-14 100 30 70-90 10-14
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cm11 cm

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cm11 cm

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tex = Unit of size in g/1000 m

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Stay seams 40 75 100-120 16-19 40 75 100-110 16-18

1cm

1cm
11cm

1cm

11cm

1cm

(e.g. 75 tex = 1000 m yarn

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1 cm

1 cm

11cm

1 cm

1 cm

11cm
1

weigh 75 g) (heel seams) 60/75 50/40 90-100 14-16 60/75 50/40 90-100 14-16
1 cm

1 cm

1 cm

1 cm
1 cm

1 cm

80 38 90-100 14-16 80 38 80-90 12-14

R SD1
– Industrial sector D Triangular point
DH Half triangular point For further information on cutting points, please contact:
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FERD. SCHMETZ GMBH, Bicherouxstraße 53–59, 52134 Herzogenrath, Germany

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Tel. +49 (0)2406 / 85-0, Fax +49 (0)2406 / 85-222, info@schmetz.com, www.schmetz.com
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D DH
 Cutting points – Needles for stitching leather and other materials
Narrow cross point “S” or “N CR”
Product: Cutting point with
a lens-shaped cross-section.
The incision follows the
direction of the seam.
Result: A very straight seam
Narrow wedge point “P” or “NW”
Narrow wedge point “PCL”
Narrow wedge point “PCR”
Product: Cutting point with
a lens-shaped cross-section.
The incision is made at right
angles to the seam direction.
Result: A very strong seam
Reverse twist point “LR” or “R TW”
Product: Cutting point with a
lens-shaped cross-section. The
incision is made at a 45° angle
to the direction of the seam.
Result: A decorative seam
inclined slightly towards the left
Wide reverse twist point “LBR”
Product: Cutting point with a
lens-shaped cross-section. The
incision is made at a 45° angle
to the direction of the seam. The
cutting effect is achieved beyond
the diameter of the needle.
Result: A raised, decorative seam
inclined towards the left
Point symbol: Seam appearance:
Threading direction
Materials:
Suitable for all types of leather
Applications:
• Footwear manufacture
Point symbol: Seam appearance:
Threading direction
Materials:
Suitable for all types of leather
Applications:
• Footwear manufacture
• Manufacture of bags,
suitcases, accessories
• Manufacture of car seats
Highlight:
The twist ensures that, when the
needle emerges from the material
being sewn, the thread is protected
in the twist groove and is thus not
Point symbol: Seam appearance:
Threading direction
Materials:
Suitable for all types of leather
Applications:
• Clothing industry
• Footwear manufacture
Point symbol: Seam appearance:
Threading direction
Materials:
Suitable for all types of leather
Applications:
• Clothing industry
• Manufacture of bags, suitcases
• Upholstery manufacture
• M anufacture of bags,
suitcases, etc. with coarse
ornamental seams
• Manufacture of belts and straps
• Manufacture of car seats
drawn over the edge of the
groove and eye or over the
cutting edge and not damaged.
CL: Left twist groove below eye
for hooks positioned to the
right of the needle.
CR: Right twist groove below eye
for hooks positioned to the left
of the needle. It is particularly
useful as the lefthand needle
on a twin needle lockstitch
machine.
• Manufacture of bags, suitcases
• Manufacture of car seats
Highlight:
The best needle for
decorative seams
Highlight:
Recommended for decorative
seams which characterize
the design
Cutting points – Needles for stitching leather and other materials Cutting points – Needles for stitching leather and other materials
Twist point “LL” or “TW” Point symbol: Seam appearance: Round point with small Point symbol: Seam appearance:
triangular tip “SD1” or
Threading direction “TRI TIP”
Twist point “LLCR” Threading direction
Materials:
Suitable for all types of leather LLCR point: For the manufacture
of footwear, in order to achieve Product: Round point with a very Materials: Highlight:
Product: Cutting point with a Applications: the same seam appearance with small, triangular cross-section. The • Fine leather Multidirectional sewing:
lens-shaped cross-section. The LL point: the hook positioned to the left of small triangular tip cuts approx. • Clothing made of leather The stitch appearance remains
incision is made at a 135° angle • Footwear manufacture the needle as achieved using the 10% of the stitch hole, with the and imitation leather the same in all sewing directions
to the direction of the seam. • Manufacture of bags, suitcases LR point in conjunction with a remaining 90% being displaced • Thin, synthetic leather materials when using multidirectional
Result: A slightly recessed, • Particularly suitable for hook positioned to the right of by the conical round point • Materials coated with PVC/PUR, sewing techniques (programmable
straight seam shoe repairs the needle. (R point). e.g. tarpaulins, tents, coated sewing machines).
Result: A straight seam table cloths
• A tidy seam appearance
Diamond point “DI” or “DIA” Point symbol: Seam appearance: • Correct stitch appearance Applications:
and less needle deflection • Stitching leather
Threading direction than with a round point • Stitching plastic
(R point) • Stitching hard fibres
• Smaller incision than when • Stitching films
Product: Cutting point with a Materials: Applications: using a cutting point
rhombic cross-section. The centered Suitable for heavy, dry, hard leather • Footwear manufacture
incision is made in the direction of • Manufacture of bags, suitcases
the seam. The seam appearance Half triangular point “DH” Point symbol: Seam appearance:
corresponds to that achieved with Highlight:
the narrow cross point (S point); • Absolutely precise and tidy Threading direction
however, the four cutting edges seam appearance
of the DI point allow heavy, hard • Correct stitch appearance
material to be pierced more easily. • No needle deflection Product: Cutting point with Materials: Applications:
Result: A very straight, a triangular cross-section; • Composites, e.g. laminated • Stitching upholstery
recessed seam smaller than D point. material together with plastic • Manufacture of vehicle interiors
Result: A straight seam sections • Manufacture of tarpaulins,
• Plastic sections tents, awnings
Reverse twist spear point Point symbol: Seam appearance: • Hard pressboard
“VR” or “R TW SP” • Tarpaulin material
• Tent canvas
Threading direction
Triangular point “D” or “TRI” Point symbol: Seam appearance:
Product: Cutting point with Materials: Highlight: Threading direction
a rhombic cross-section. The Suitable for hard, dry leather Due to the four cutting edges,
incision is made at a 45° angle • a correct stitch appearance
to the direction of the seam. • no needle deflection Product: Cutting point with Materials: Highlight:
Result: A seam inclined slightly Applications: is achieved. a triangular cross-section. Suitable for hard, dry leather The best cutting effect of all
towards the left • Footwear manufacture Result: A straight seam cutting points
Better cutting effect than the • Manufacture of bags, Applications:
comparable reverse twist point suitcases • Manufacture of footwear,
(LR point) especially for heavy footwear
(e.g. safety shoes)
• Stitching upholstery
• Stitching plastics, cardboard,
The shown point symbols and seam appearance refer to laterally threaded needles.
When using machines with needles threaded from the front, the seam appearance might change significantly.
heavy pressboard, paper