FABRIC DEFECTS

Hitesh Choudhary
www.facebook.com/hitesh.choudhary1
 Introduction

Defination of defect :
i. An imperfection that impairs worth or utility
ii. Want or absence of something necessary for
completeness or perfection
iii. A fault that spoils the material.

Fabric defect : A Fabric Defect is any abnormality

in the Fabric that hinders its acceptability by
the consumer.
 Importance of fabric defect

• Due to the increasing demand for quality

fabrics, high quality requirements are today
greater since customer has become more
aware of poor quality problems
• To avoid Rejection of fabric, It is necessary to
avoid defects.
• Price of fabric is reduced by 45%-65% due to
the presence of defects
• Company image will go down.
 List of fabric defects in woven
fabrics
• Coloured flecks • Missing ends
• Knots • Missing Pick
• Slub • Oil and other stain
• Broken ends woven in a • Oily ends
bunch • Oily picks
• Broken pattern • Reed mark
• Double end • Slough off
• Float • Shuttle smash
• Gout • Snarls
• Hole, cut, or tear • Stitches
• Lashing-In • Untrimmed loose threads
• Local distortion • Weft bar
 Coloured Flecks
COLOURED FLECKS Presence of coloured foreign matter
in the yarn.

CAUSES Cotton fibres getting contaminated during the

ginning stage with leaves, immature fibre, yellow fibre, etc.

MENDING Coloured portion is removed from the yarn with

a plucker. The resultant bare patch can be corrected by
combing with metallic comb.
 KNOTS
Knots Knot is a fastening made by tying together the ends
of yarn

CAUSES Thread breaks during process of

winding, warping, sizing or weaving

MENDING Non Mendable.

 SLUB

Slub Slub is a bunch of yarn having less twist or no twist

and has a wider diameter compared to normal spun yarn

CAUSES
 Improper carding/combing.
 Broken tooth in the chain of gear system

MENDING The slub should be cut with the clipper from

both the ends. The resultant bare patch can be corrected by
combing with a metallic comb or by insertion of a separate
thread with the help of fine needle.
 Broken pattern

Broken pattern A broken pattern is the non continuity of

a weave/ design/ pattern

CAUSES
 Wrong drawing in of threads.
 Incorrect shedding

MENDING Non Mendable.

 Broken Ends woven in a bunch

Broken ends woven in a bunch This defect is caused

by a bunch of broken ends woven into the fabric

CAUSE Failure of the weaver in attending the warp breaks

properly

MENDING The broken ends woven in a bunch can be

removed by using a plucker and the resulting loose ends
should be cut with clipper. As a result, a bare patch occurs
and combing in both directions with a metallic comb can fill
this up.
 Double end

Double end When two or more ends gets woven as one.

This defect is characterized by a thick bar running parallel
to the warp.

CAUSES Wrong drawing, taking more ends in heald eye.

MENDING This fault can be corrected by pulling out the

extra end with the help of needle. A bare patch is formed
and can be filled by combing in both directions with the help
of metallic comb.
 Float

Float Float is the improper interlacement of warp and

weft threads over a certain area.

CAUSES
 Improper sizing (ends sticking)
 Broken end entangling with the other ends

MENDING Only minor floats can be rectified. The floating

threads are cut with a clipper . Combing in both direction
rectifies the resultant patch
 Gout
Gout : Gout is a foreign matter accidently woven into the
fabric.

CAUSES
 Improper loom cleaning.
 Unclean environment

MENDING The extra foreign matter can be pulled out with

a plucker. Combing in both direction rectifies the resultant
patch
 Hole, Cut, Tear

Hole, Cut or Tear This is self explanatory

CAUSES
 Sharp edges on cloth roll.
 Hard substance between layers of fabric in cloth roll
 Course temples used for fine fabric
 During removal of hard particles like, Iron particles
woven in the cloth

MENDING Non mendable

 Missing Ends
Missing Ends The fabric is characterised by a gap, parallel
to the warp. The number of ends missing may be one or
more.

CAUSES
 Loom not equipped with warp stop motion.
 Dirty drop wires or accumulation of lint may prevent their
dropping.
 In electric warp stop motion, the electric bars are dirty or
corroded.

MENDING When there are only two adjacent ends

missing, the fault can be rectified by combing in both
directions using a metallic comb. This may fill the bare
patch formed due to missing ends.
 Missing Picks
Missing Picks A narrow streak running parallel with weft
threads caused due to absense of weft.

CAUSES
 Faulty let-off and take-up motion.
 Faulty weft-stop motion.
 Fell of the cloth not adjusted after loom stoppage for
mending.

MENDING When there are only two adjacent picks

missing, the fault can be rectified by combing in both
directions using a metallic comb. This may fill the bare
patch formed due to missing ends.
 STITCHES
Stitches A Single thread float.

CAUSES
 Two adjacent ends sticking together during shedding for a
brief period of time.
 In case of synthetic yarns, ends sticking together due to
static charge during weaving.

MENDING Stitches are cut with a clipper from both the

ends. Combing in both the directions with the help of a
metallic comb may rectify the resultant bare patch formed.
 UNTRIMMED LOOSE THREADS
Untrimmed loose threads Any hanging threads on the face
of the fabrics are termed as loose threads.

CAUSE Tail ends not trimmed after piecing up.

MENDING These defects can be easily rectified with the

help of clipper.
 WEFT BAR
Weft bar An unwanted bar, running across the full width of
a piece which differs in appearance from the adjacent
normal fabric.

CAUSES
 Difference in count, twist, colour, lustre.
 Faulty let-off and take-up motion.

MENDING Non mendable .

 SHUTTLE SMASH

Shuttle smash Ruptued cloth structure characterised by

many broken warp ends and floating picks.

CAUSES
 Improper timing.
 Insufficient picking force.
 Slack ends in certain portion. The sagging ends obstructs
shuttle flight.

MENDING Non mendable.

 Lashing in
Lashing in An extra piece of yarn woven into the fabric in
the vicinity of the selvedge.

CAUSES
 Defective setting of the shuttle box.
 Early or late picking.
 In case of auto loom, weft cutters worn out or not set
properly

MENDING This defect can be corrected by pulling out the

extra pick from the selvedge end, which can be clipped with
the help of clipper. A bare patch is formed and can be filled
by combing in both directions with the help of mettalic
comb.
 Oil Or Stain
Oil Or Other Stain These are spot defects of
oil, rust, grease or other stains found in the fabric.

CAUSES
 Improper oiling/greasing of looms.
 Oil stained Take up roller.

MENDING
1) Keep the stained portion of the fabric over an absorbent pad. Apply the
stain remover, wetting the stain and surrounding portion throughly.
2) Rub gently to quicken the penetration of the stain remover.
3) Rubbing should be done towards the centre of stain to avoid spreading.
Note: Delicate fabric needs reduced pressure, otherwise, hole formation or
displacement of the fabric will occur.
 Oily Ends
Oily Ends These are oily warp ends.

CAUSES
 Improper handling and storage of material in spinning
department.
 Oil-contaminated guides and oily hands during process of
warping.
 Improper handling of warp beams.

MENDING
1) Keep the stained portion of the fabric over an absorbent pad. Apply the
stain remover, wetting the stain and surrounding portion throughly.
2) Rub gently to quicken the penetration of the stain remover.
3) Rubbing should be done towards the centre of stain to avoid spreading.
Note: Delicate fabric needs reduced pressure, otherwise, hole formation or
displacement of the fabric will occur.
 Oily Weft
Oily weft These are oily weft picks.

CAUSES
 Improper handling and storing in spinning department.
 Weft package falling on oily ground.
 Handling the weft with oily hands.
 Weft carring baskets having oil.
 Dropping of oil on weft package during oiling of the
winding machine.

MENDING
1) Keep the stained portion of the fabric over an absorbent pad. Apply the
stain remover, wetting the stain and surrounding portion throughly.
2) Rub gently to quicken the penetration of the stain remover.
3) Rubbing should be done towards the centre of stain to avoid spreading.
Note: Delicate fabric needs reduced pressure, otherwise, hole formation or
displacement of the fabric will occur.
 Local Distortion
Local distortion A Distortion occurs when there is
displacement of warp and/or weft threads from their normal
position.

CAUSES
 The emery roll is worn out.
 In filament fabric having low reed picks.

MENDING This defect can be corrected by combing in both

directions using a mettalic comb.
 SLOUGH OFF
Slough off A slough-off is a bunch of weft woven into the
fabric.

CAUSES
 Improper winding of the yarn onto the weft pirn.
 Improper shape and size of the pirn.
 Harsh picking.

MENDING The bulk yarn can be pulled out by means of

plucker. Combing in both direction with help of mettalic
comb can fill up the resultant bare patch.
 Reed Marks
Reed Marks A warp way crack caused by a damaged or
defective reed.

CAUSES Defective or damaged reed.

MENDING Non Mendable.

 List of fabric defects in terry and
velvet fabrics
• Broken pattern
• Pile less spot
• Uneven or loose piles
 BROKEN PATTERN DUE TO
DEFECTIVE PILES
Broken pattern due to defective piles A broken pattern is the
result of non-continuity of the design/pattern in the pile
fabric.

CAUSES
 Improper working of terry motion on loom.
 Improper functioning of jacquard.
 Missing pick.

MENDING Non mendable.

 PILE LESS SPOT
Pile less spot It is a spot without the pile

CAUSES
 Improper working of terry motion on loom.
 Improper functioning of jacquard.

MENDING Non mendable

 UNEVEN OR LOOSE PILES
Uneven or loose piles In this type of defect there is variation
in the pile height over the surface of the fabric.

CAUSES
 Improper working of terry motion on loom.
 Improper functioning of jacquard.
 Missing pick.

MENDING Non Mendable.

 List of fabric defects in Knitted
fabrics
• Bariness
• Bunching up
• Drop stitch
• Holes or Crack
• Crack fall out
• Horizontal srtipes
• Verticle stripes
 BARINESS
Bariness A fabric defect characterized by textural bands or
color bands in the course direction of a weft knitted fabric.

CAUSES
 Use of irregular yarn having higher long term irregularities.
 Using different count thread.

MENDING Non Mendable.

 Bunching up
Bunching up : This is largely influnced by take-up
mechanism and whether it functions properly or not.

CAUSES
 Fabric take-up too weak.
 Thick place in yarn.

MENDING Non Mendable.

 Drop stitch
Drop stitch: Local column of dropped stitches.

CAUSES
 Yarn guide not set poroperly (i.e yarn is not fed properly during loop
formation).
 Defective latch needle.
 yarn tension is not sufficient.
 Take-down is too high.
 Wrong yarn threading.

MENDING This fault can be corrected by stitches reforming using a

simple needle.

CAN BE AVOIDED BY
 Precise yarn-guide setting.
 Needle change.
 Dial position readjustment.
 Use of fabric fault detector.
 Holes or crack
Holes or crack : Local holes obtained when yarn breaks
during loop formation.

CAUSES
 Relation between cylinder and dial loop not correct.
 Weak places in yarn, Which breaks during loop formation
 Knots.
 Yarn running tension is too high.

CAN BE AVOIDED BY
 Use of flat knots.
 Accurate yarn guide setting.
 Use of fabric fault detector.
 Use of yarn having lower hariness.
 Cloth fall-out
Cloth fall-out : It is an area consisting of drop stitches lying
side by side. Here the yarn is not stitched by several
needles laying near to each other.

CAUSES
 Yarn brakage.
 It can also occur after a drop stitch especially when an
empty needle with closed latch runs into yarn feeder and
removes the yarn out of the hooks of following needles.

MENDING: Non mendable.

 Horizontal stripes
Horizontal stripes : Are caused by uneveness in the
courses. They traverse horizontally and repeat themselves
regularly or irregularly.

CAUSES
 Yarn feeder set badly.
 Differences in the yarn running-in tension.
 Jerky impulse from fabric take up .

Mending : Non mendable.

 Verticle stripes
Verticle stripes : They can be observed as longitudnal gaps
in the fabric. The space between adjacent wales is irregular.

CAUSES
 Bent needles.
 Heavily running needles.
 Damaged latch needle.
 Damaged needle hook.
 Damaged dial or cylinder.

CAN BE AVOIDED BY :
 Needles and sinkers change after long time use.
 Use of fabric fault detector.
 Inspection

Inspection : Inspection is the process of identifying and

mending the defects. It is visual examination of fabric

REASONS WHY INSPECTION IS CARRIED OUT:

 To remove defects.
 To minimize the future reoccurrences of the defect.
 To determine quality and hence the price of the fabric.
 To supply information to proper levels of management
as to the qualities being produced
 Different Grading systems

1. point system
2. point system
3. point system
4. Graniteville system
5. Dallas system
 Point system

 It is the most popular point system.

 It was published in 1959 by the National
Association of Shirt Pajama Sportswear
Manufacturers.
 The 4-point system, also called the American
Apparel Manufacturers Association (AAMA) point
grading system for determining fabric quality
 Faults are scored with penalty points of 1, 2, 3 and
4 according to the Size and significance of defect.
 Point system

DEFECT SIZE PENALTY

3 inches or less Point

Over 3 inches, but less than 6 Point

Over 6 inches, but less than 9 Point

Over 9 inches Point

 Points to be considered in 4 Point
system
 No more than 4 penalty points can be assigned for any single
defect.
 No linear yard or meter can contain more than 4
points, regardless of the number of defects within that yard
or meter.
 Each full width defect should assign 4 points.
 noticeable and severe defects are to be assigned 4 points for
each yard or meter in which they occur, regardless of size.

Advantages of 4 point system :

 Worker can easily understand it
 It has no width limitation
 Point system

 This system was developed in 1950’s and is the

oldest method.
 The system assigns penalty points to each defect
depending on its length and whether it is in the
warp (ends) or weft (fill) direction.
 The Ten-Point System is somewhat complicated
because points-per-length vary for warp and weft
defects.
 This method is still used by some manufacturers.
 Point system

Warp defect Points Weft defect Points

Under 1” Under 1”
1” - 5” 1” - 5”
5” - 10” 5” – ½ width of fabric

10”- 36” Over ½ the width of fabric

Advantage of 10 point system:

 Mostly used in woven finished fabric.
 High accuracy

Disadvantage of 10 point system:

 It has width Limitation.
 Difficult in practical use.
 Classification of Fabric after
Grading
1) Fresh or first quality fabric with no major or
objectionable faults.
2) Second : cloth having minor defects.
3) Fents : The cut pieces of cloths measuring 90cm
and more but less than 150 cm in length are
graded as fents.
4) Rags : The cut pieces of cloths larger than 25cm
but less than 90 cm are regarded as rags.
5) Chindies : These are the cloths having length of 25
cm or less.
 Conclusions

• Due to presence of fabric defect, it has to be

sold at lower prices, or even in some cases as
seconds, which creates a hugh value loss to the
company.
• To minimize value loss due to variety of defect
occuring in the fabric, a manufacturer should
try to minimize those defects by taking suitable
remedies.
 References
• Textiles Committee, Ministry of Textiles, “A catalogue on
woven fabric defects and visual inspection”
• Circular Knitting (2nd edition) by Iyer , pp 236-239.
• A project report on “ Comparision of yarn and fabric made
from CULTON® cotton and Regular cotton” under guidance
of PROF. Manish pujari.
• K.L. Mak, P. Peng, K.F.C. Yiu Fabric defect detection using
morphological filters Image and Vision Computing vol
, pp -
• Tamnun E Mursalin, Fajrana Zebin Eishita , Ahmed Ridwanul
Islam Fabric defect inspection system using neural
network and microcontroller Journal of Theoretical and
Applied Information Technology, vol 4, july 2008 pp 560-
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