Foundation Course in Make Up Artistry

TRAINING MANUAL - MAKEUP BASIC
Table of Content
Skin Care & Personal Grooming 3
Hygiene 12
Makeup Products & Techniques 23
Brush Types & Uses 45
Colour Theory 50
Facial Anatmony & Shapes 56
Face Shapes 63
Skin Tone 68
Foundation 72
Concealing 79
Highlighting & Contouring 84
Colour Application 91
Skin Care & Personal Grooming
One of the most effective ways we have to protect ourselves and others from illness is
good personal hygiene.
It means:
»» Being careful not to cough or sneeze on others
»» Cleaning things that you touch if you are unwell
»» Putting items such as tissues (that may have germs) into a bin
»» Ensuring the environment around you is clean
BODY ODOR
Fresh perspiration, when allowed to evaporate does not cause body odor. An offensive
smell is caused when bacteria that are present on the skin get to work on the sweat and
decompose it. This is especially so in the groin, underarms, and feet or in clothing that
has absorbed sweat.
CAUSES OF BODY ODOR
»» Chemicals in sweat, which are made by the body and sexually attract (or repel)
other people.
»» Wastes excreted through the skin.
»» The actions of bacteria that live on the skin and feed on dead skin cells andsweat.
»» Unwashed clothes, such as undergarments and socks.
»» Use of polyester and synthetic clothes in tropical countries like India.
»» Diet influences the odor too.
WAYS TO FIGHT BODY ODOR
»» Use deodorants / anti-perspirants:
»» Deodorants are made to mask the body odor, whereas Anti-perspirants are
designed to prevent perspiration.
This document is meant for internal training purpose only 3

»» Deodorants/ Anti-perspirants are to be used after a shower / bath (in the
underarm area). Thoroughly dry the underarm before use or it will not last and
be effective. Repeat use as required. (If you have been sweating a lot, wipe the
area with a wet towel and dry thoroughly before reapplying the deodorant or
anti perspirant or it will not be effective.)
»» Use a mild perfume or eau de toilette at the pulse points – behind the ears, on
the inner wrists. Do not spray perfume on your clothes as some perfumes tend
to stain the clothes.
»» If daily cleanliness routines do not reduce body odor, check with the doctor.
ORAL HYGIENE
Poor oral hygiene and infection of gums often results in a bad odor emanating from the
mouth. Smoking can make this worse. Proper brushing of the teeth and oral care can
get rid of bad breath.
There can be other reasons for bad breath. Colds, sinuses, throat infections or tonsils
can cause bad breath. Therefore, if bad breath persists despite good dental care, you
need to see a doctor.
SOME TIPS FOR GOOD ORAL HYGIENE:
»» Must brush teeth every morning and night.
»» Cleaning the tongue is as important as

brushing your teeth. Use a tongue cleaner
or the toothbrush itself to clean the tongue.
Must gargle well after every meal and re-
touch your make up, specially the lipstick.
»» Must floss teeth regularly before brushing

– this removes the food stuck between
the teeth and helps prevent cavities. Use
waxed floss, it is milder and gentler on the gums. E.g. Colgate, Oral – B, etc
»» Method of flossing – wrap a little thread around both your index fingers and
slide the thread up and down, then forward and backward between each tooth.
This loosens the food particles stuck in between the teeth. Always brush your
teeth after flossing, every night.
4 This document is meant for internal training purpose only

»» Keep the pressure light and not heavy when inserting and removing the floss.
Initially the gums might bleed, but that is usual. Once the gums are used to the
flossing practice, you will not experience any bleeding from the gums.
»» Keep mint in your bag at all times. Always pop in a mint before a meeting.
»» Drinking coffee through the day can cause coffee breath, this can be controlled
by drinking some water after the coffee. Pop in a mint if necessary

SOME TIPS TO KEEP YOUR HANDS GERM FREE:
»» Wash hands thoroughly with soap and water before and after visiting the toilet.
»» Ideally, hands should be soaped for at least 30 seconds before rinsing, for the
hand washing to be effective.
»» If you share the toilet with others it is best to use liquid soap
»» Soaping and rinsing should cover the areas between fingers, nails and the back
of the hand.
»» Hands should be dried with a clean towel after wash.
»» After all that work our hands need some pampering………hydrate your hands
every night by using a good hand cream, (Oil of Olay, Nivea, Dove moisturizer,
Vaseline body lotion, etc).

FEET
During a bath/shower give your feet a good scrub with

a sponge, pumice stone or foot scrubber that is not of
very abrasive material
After a bath/shower dry the area between the toes.
Keep toenails clipped.
Powder your feet before wearing socks.
Go for a pedicure at least once in three weeks.
Give importance to wearing comfort in the choice of

footwear. As makeup requires a lot of standing position
uncomfortable footwear can result in spine problems
NAILS
Nails are the mirror to our health. A healthy body ensures healthy nails. Brittle or
discolored nails show up deficiencies or disease conditions.
»» Grow nails only if you can keep them clean and maintain them.
»» Short nails make less trouble. Clip nails short, along their shape. Don’t cut them
so close that it pinches the skin.
»» Do not keep your nails painted continuously. It causes the nails to get discolored
and split.
»» Pamper your hands and nails once every three weeks with a manicure.

EATING FOR BEAUTIFUL SKIN

»» Beautiful skin, like a healthy body, needs plenty of fresh fruit and
vegetables to keep it radiant and supple.
»» It’s clearly obvious that drinking at least 10-12 glasses of water
during the day helps purify your body-which means a fresher,
firmer skin.
»» Daily beauty regime- cleansing, toning, moisturizer is important
and necessary for a natural glow.

SKIN CARE
Skin bears the brunt of harsh environment – heat and dust , toxic gases and particles.
Regular skin care adds radiance. The lack of it only adds years to your age. Skin damage
is not easily reversible. Regular skin care can create irreversible wellness. The secret to
ageless beauty lies in regular skincare
SKIN ANALYSIS
Skin analysis is an important part of skin care. Using appropriate skin care products and
following a regular skin care regimen is essential for healthy, glowing skin. Skin analysis
will help determine which products you should use.
SKIN TYPES
People are born with their skin type. Like everything else, skin can change over time.
An individual’s skin type is primarily based on how much oil is produced in the follicles
from the oil glands. Generally, an individual’s skin becomes drier over time. Our cellular
metabolism and oil/lipid production slows down. Skin types include dry, normal,
combination, or oily.
DRY SKIN
»» Does not produce enough oil.
»» The follicles are usually small and the sebum (oil) is minimal.
»» Dry skin can be oil dry or moisture dry.
»» It is normally thin and looks dull.
»» Moisture dry skin is known as dehydrated skin.
»» A dehydrated skin is prone to fine lines and wrinkles.
»» Dehydration of the skin may be a temporary condition varying from season to

season and from various factors in the environment.
»» Using too heavy a cream or oil on dry skin may inhibit its production of natural
oils by the sebaceous glands.


OILY SKIN
»» Over production of sebum/oil.
»» Feels thicker than dry or normal skin.
»» Has enlarged pores.
»» Appears shiny compared to dry or normal skin.
»» More prone to pimples and blemishes, due to excessive oil.
»» Less prone to wrinkles and fine lines.
»» Proper exfoliation and a water based hydrator will help keep oily skin clean and
balanced.
»» Over cleansing can make matters worse by stripping the skin off its natural oils
and irritating it.
»» If skin is over dried, it is not balanced, and the body’s protection mechanism
tries to produce additional oil to compensate for the dryness on the surface.
NORMAL SKIN
»» Has a good oil / water balance.
»» Can fluctuate and sometimes will be a little dry or a little oily.
»» The follicles are normal sized and the skin is usually free of blemishes.
»» Maintenance and proper care is the goal for this type of skin.
COMBINATION SKIN
»» Can be both oily and dry at the same time.
»» The T- Zone through the middle of the face on the forehead,

nose, and chin is oilier.
»» This area has more oil glands and larger pores.
»» The outer areas of the face can be dry and even appear flaky

»» Needs to be balanced and requires more care than normal skin.
»» Water based products work better.
STEPS OF SKIN CARE
CLEANSING – Skin cleansing is essential for a healthy complexion . It removes make-up,

dirt and pollutants from the skins surface
»» Apply approximately one teaspoon of cleansing milk with upward movements

to the face, neck and around the eyes – to remove make up and dirt.
»» Start by removing makeup and dirt with a cotton pad soaked in cold water
(dampen pads by soaking in water and squeeze well), work upwards from the
base of the neck.
»» Continue cleansing with wet cotton pads until the cotton no longer shows dirt.
TONING – Toning lotions remove all traces of cleanser and grease. Its main action is
creating a tightening effect on the skin. Helps to restore the acidic PH balance of the
skin.
»» Apply 5-10 drops of toner to a wet cotton pad.
»» Go over the whole face in upward motions. Do not apply toner directly over the
eyes, flip the cotton pad and use the other side for the eyes.
»» Rinse the face with water and pat dry.
DAY PROTECTION LOTIONS / MOISTURIZERS – It plumps the skin tissue with moisture,
which minimizes the appearance of fine lines. It provides a barrier between the skin and
make-up cosmetics.
»» Apply a small amount to the face and neck with upward movements.
»» Massage lightly until it has completely penetrated into the skin.
»» In the winter or when flying, reapply a second coat of lotion to give your skin
extra protection. Flying tends to dehydrate the skin.
»» Must be worn as a base under makeup.

SUNSCREEN – Sunscreen prevents the sun’s harmful rays from damaging your skin. It
is important to see SPF factor before buying a sun screen.
SPF stands for ‘Sun Protect Factor. Any sun screen with an SPF of less than 15 will not
provide much sun protection. For extended sun exposure for more than two hours, an
SPF of at least 30 is recommended.
»» To be used all over the face and neck when exposed to sunlight.
»» To be applied over day time protection lotion
»» Should be applied at least 20 minutes before stepping out into the sun.
NOURISHING – Nourishing cream is known as a Night cream also, made for all skin
types.
»» Apply a night cream to clean skin by using massage movements until it penetrates
fully.
»» Always start at the neck and work upwards.
»» Although the creams are made to be absorbed in a couple of minutes, wait

20 – 30 minutes before going to sleep to assure that all the benefits of the
ingredients have had a chance to work.

- NOTES -

Hygiene
Learning objective:
»» Importance of hygiene in makeup
»» Hygiene and avoiding cross-infection
»» Protect the health of you and your client
Hygiene is another term meaning

“cleanliness.” Hygiene is a word that
stands for the steps and procedures
you do to keep your body and you’re
surrounding healthy and clean. A good
example of performing good hygiene
would be “Sanitization”
A healthy environment is a powerful

way to assure your clients that their
comfort and safety is important to
you. Poor hygiene could result in the
transmission of germs, infections
and diseases causing skin infection &
allergies.
Makeup experts must maintain strict infection control and safety measures.
BACTERIOLOGY: The science that deals with the study of micro – organisms called
bacteria. As Makeup artist, you should understand how the spread of disease can be
prevented and what precautions you must take to protect your health and your clients’
health.

BACTERIA :
»» Also called as germs or microbes.
»» They can exist almost everywhere on the skin of the body, in water, air, decayed
matter, secretions of body openings, on clothing, and beneath the nails.
»» Can be seen only with the aid of microscope.
»» Fifteen hundred rod-shaped bacteria would barely cover the head of a pin.

TYPES OF BACTERIA :

There are hundreds of different types of bacteria. However, bacteria are classified into
two types, depending, on whether they are beneficial or harmful.
1. Non - Pathogenic Bacteria :
»» Most bacteria are non – pathogenic micro organism.
»» They are harmless or helpful microbes
»» They perform many useful functions, such as decomposing refuse and improving
soil fertility.
2. Pathogenic Bacteria :
»» They are present in minority.
»» They are harmful microbes
»» Produce disease when they invade plant or animal tissue.
»» To this group belongs to parasites, which requires living matter for their growth.
BACTERIAL GROWTH AND REPRODUCTION
1. Active or Vegetative Bacteria :
»» During this stage bacteria grow and reproduce.
»» These microorganisms multiply best in warm, dark or dirty places where

sufficient food is available.
»» When conditions are favorable, bacteria grow and reproduce.
»» When they reach their largest size, they divide into two cells. This division is
called Mitosis.
»» The cells formed are called daughter cells.
2. Inactive or Spore – forming Bacteria
»» Certain bacteria, such as the anthrax and tetanus bacilli, form spherical spores

with tough outer coverings during their inactive stage.
»» The purpose is to be able to withstand periods of famine, dryness and unsuitable

temperatures.
»» In this stage, spores can be blown, about and are not harmed by disinfectants,
heat or cold.
»» When favorable conditions are removed, the spores change into the active or
vegetative form, then grow and reproduce.
BACTERIAL INFECTIONS
There can be no infection without the presence of pathogenic bacteria. An infection

occurs when the body is unable to cope with the bacteria and their harmful toxins.
»» Local Infection: Indicated by a boil or pimple that contains pus.
»» General Infection : The bloodstream carries the bacteria and their toxins to all
parts of the body.
PUS
The presence of pus is a sign of infection. Bacteria, waste matter, decayed tissue, body
cells and living and dead blood cells are all found in pus.
Contagious Disease: A disease that spreads from one person to another by contact.
E.g.: Tuberculosis, common colds, ringworm, scabies, head lice, and viral infections.
SOURCE OF INFECTION:
»» Unclean hands and implements
»» Open sores
»» Mouth and nose discharges
»» Common use of drinking cups and towels.
»» Uncovered coughing or sneezing and spitting in public also spread germs.

BACTERIA ENTER BODY - Pathogenic Bacteria can enter the body through:

»» A break in the skin, such as a cut, pimple, or scratch
»» The mouth (breathing air, or swallowing water or food)
»» The nose (air)
»» The eyes or ears (dirt)
BODY FIGHTS INFECTION - The body fights infection by means of: IMMUNITY
»» Immunity is the ability of the body to destroy bacteria that have gained entrance,
and thus to resist infection.
»» Immunity against disease can be natural or acquired and is a sign of good health.
TWO TYPES OF IMMUNITY:
Natural Immunity:
»» Inherent resistance to disease.
»» It is partly inherited and partly developed through hygienic living.
Acquired Immunity:
»» Something the body develops after it has overcome a disease, or receives

through inoculation.
Infection control is the term used to describe efforts to prevent the spread of disease
and prevent the risk of spreading infections, especially to you and your clients. It is a
practice that is of utmost importance in Beauty industry. Prevention is practiced at
three varying levels.
Decontamination - No matter how clean an object or surface may appear to the naked
eye, chances are it is contaminated-that is, that it has microorganisms in or on it. Many
things can be contaminated, such as makeup on a brush or cleansing cream on a cotton
pad. Even tools that appear to be clean are usually covered with contaminants.
Of course, a salon can never be completely free from all contamination, and it would
not make sense to attempt such a goal. However, it is your responsibility as a makeup
professional to be on constant alert for disease-causing contaminants.

The removal of pathogens and other substances from tools and surfaces is called
decontamination. Decontamination involves the use of physical or chemical means
to remove, inactivate, or destroy pathogens so that the object is rendered safe for
handling, use, or disposal.
There are three main levels of decontamination: Sterilization, Disinfection, and

Sanitation.
»» Sanitation at the first level
»» Disinfection at the second level
»» Sterilization at the third level
Sanitation is the lowest level of infection control. This

first level of infection control physical level of dirt and
debris. Sanitation begins the process of protecting you
and your clients from the transmission of diseases. E.g.;
Hand washing or Sanitizing
Hand washing & Using a Sanitizer - One of the most

important sanitation actions you can take to prevent the
transfer of microorganisms form one person to another.

Sanitation guidelines
»» Wash your hands before and after every service with a liquid soap and water.
»» Sanitize all the surfaces & Tools before and after every service.
»» Wash and dry all reusable implements with soap and water before placing them
in a disinfecting solution.
»» Provide freshly laundered towels or Disposable capes for each client.
»» Keep the salon free from insects with the use of sprays and room fresheners.
»» Use a fresh spatula or applicator stick for each client each and every time.
»» Discard disposable items after each service.
»» Label all the solutions, dispensers, pump bottles and always keep them covered.
»» Avoid touching your face, hair, mouth or eyes during makeup.

Disinfection is the second level of infection control. It means using products or methods
that kill or destroy bacteria and virus. However, chemical disinfectants do not eliminate
all the bacteria. This is the main difference between disinfection and sterilization.
Disinfection is applicable to all non porous surfaces like tools and implements in the
salon. For e.g.; steel palette & Spatula, Brushes.
Vanity bags and makeup station surfaces require pre-cleaning (sanitation) and
disinfection after each use.

Disinfecting guidelines
»» Discard and disinfect every implement that comes into contact with the client.
»» Use a disinfectant solution, completely immerse all the nonporous nail implements
in it and leave it for time mentioned on the solution used.
»» Store implements that have been disinfected in a clean, dry, covered container
or vanity bag until needed.
»» Never use an implement or towel that has been dropped on the floor.
Sterilization is the third and the highest level of infection control. It destroys all living
organisms, including all bacteria, fungus and virus which neither sanitation or disinfection
can kill. Sterilization is used less frequently than disinfection, but it is far more effective.
Numerous sterilization methods exist, including moist or dry heat, and immersion in
liquid chemical sterilizers.
Sterilizing equipments: Infection control equipment is available to sanitize, disinfect

and sterilize, depending on the salon’s needs.
All equipment should be cleaned first, before sterilization, to remove surface debris.
This may be achieved in the following manner:

»» Wash implements in hot soapy water.
»» Rinse with plain water.
»» Dry thoroughly.
»» Use chosen method of sterilization.

UV light Sterilizer Ultraviolet (UV) light sterilizer is common in most salons. This machine
usually looks like a large toaster oven and utilizes UV light to kill bacteria in a dry setting.
Typically, implements are placed in the cabinet after being completely pre-cleaned with
warm soap and water and are allowed to sanitize for approximately 20 min.
Autoclave To truly sterilize equipment, an autoclave is used. An autoclave is a pressurized

steam heated vessel that sterilizes objects with high pressure and heat, or pressurized
steam, preventing microorganisms from surviving. However autoclaves are used in
medical or dental offices, where critical instruments are used.
Chemiclave When an autoclave uses steam to sterilize implements and other objects
in the salon, a chemiclave uses high pressure, high temperature water, alchohol and
formaldehyde(chemical) vapors’ for sterilization.
By practicing high level of hygiene – using the proper procedures,

tools and solutions for sanitation, disinfection and sterilization-
you exhibit (show) the utmost professionalism. You also
demonstrate concern for your clients’ health and well being;
putting them at ease and making them feel secure and relaxed
in your hands. Protect your clients and yourself by practicing
proper infection- control procedures at your workplace. Your

clients will appreciate your efforts to protect their health, but the true benefactor is you,
today’s professional nail artist.
Autoclave and Chemiclave are not used for Make up artists.
MAKE UP HYGIENE
Makeup Safety is important and is an essential element.

Makeup can also cause serious problems such as irritations
if Hygiene is not maintained. Taking certain precautions
when applying makeup can will help you to deliver your
best skill in a professional way. Developing hygienic makeup
habits takes time and practice.
If Hygiene is not maintained
»» Can lead to skin allergies and infections
»» Contaminates products
»» Reduces their Life Span of Products
If tools are not cleansed
»» Converts into Bacteria’s Breeding Ground
»» Product Deposition on Bristles
»» Alters the Shade on application
»» Natural oils from Skin getting transmitted to brushes
Adhering to certain Thumb rules provides a guideline while working
Washing your hands before makeup applications

and between clients seems like common sense, but
sometimes it’s the simplest steps that we forget. You
should even wash or sanitize your hands before you
start a makeup application on yourself. This prevents you
from transferring whatever bacteria you’ve picked up
throughout your day onto your skin or your client’s face.
Whether you prefer hand sanitizer or just soap and water,
clean hands are the foundation of good makeup hygiene.

It’s even best to sanitize, clean and wipe all tools and products in front of your client
to make sure they know you are hygienic and follow health and safety precautions and
procedures
Use a steel palette to take and mix products like foundation,

concealer and pigments glue to avoid contamination. Do
not forgot to clean and sanitize it after each use
Professional makeup artists must clean and sanitize their

brushes thoroughly between every single client. If a brush
has touched a person’s face or body, it should always be cleaned before it touches
someone else. Forgetting to clean your brushes is one of the worst culprits when it
comes to transferring bacteria between people.
Makeup has an expiry date for a reason! Old products that are past their due date can
be extremely unhygienic, particularly if it’s a product that you use on clients. The older
makeup gets, the more susceptible it is to germs and bacteria.
Always ‘double dipping’. If you take product with your brush,

touch the brush to a client’s face, and then put that brush back
into the product, you contaminate the rest of that makeup.
You therefore can’t use that product on another client without
exposing them to the first client’s bacteria. Instead, use a clean
palette knife to scoop what you need onto a clean palette. You
can work freely from the palette if you use it exclusively for that
client until you clean and sanitize it.

Although brushes are great, use disposable applicators when
possible. Some products, like lip gloss and mascara, need a wand
to retrieve them from the container but will be contaminated if
you ‘double dip’. This is what disposable applicators are for.
Sharpen eyeliner/lipliner before every use and swipe

with a tissue before applying it . This helps to shed
the outer layer where the bacteria collect. Spray the
top surface of compact powders and gently wipe to
remove the contaminated layer
Dispose unwanted stuff and always keep the station clean
Always keep the Makeup kit/ Bag clean and tidy. It throws
a bad impression on the client if the makeup vanity is
cluttered and dirty. So to be true professional always
clean and keep your makeup vanity organized.
Developing hygienic makeup habits takes time and practice. The key to beautiful makeup
is a beautiful canvas and skincare is the primary and most important step that a lot of
people tend to forget! Your makeup can only look as good as the skin that is applied on
so… if you haven’t at least got the basics in your beauty routine..START NOW…it doesn’t
have to be complex but a good cleanser, moisturizer, eye cream and SPF are so very
important!

- NOTES -

Makeup Products & Techniques
Makeup plays an important role in the fashion world and constantly changes with the
seasons. Makeup is also an important feature of weddings, proms, and other glamorous
events.
Makeup is a tool that helps create a look that radiates beauty. Everyone wants to look
his or her best.
Makeup’s primary goals to enhance the natural beauty of

the client by bringing out the most attractive features of
the face, while minimizing those that are less attractive. It
is very important to know make up products formulations
as this helps us to choose the correct product as per the
requirement
CHEMISTRY OF MAKEUP PRODUCTS
Formulation of Makeup: The formula refers to the ingredients blended together, and
how the makeup is formulated.
Oil & Emollient based

Oil and emollient based are the oldest type of make-up. An oil (usually mineral oil)
or emollient (such as petrolatum, beeswax, or lanolin) is used as the main ingredient,
with pigment added to it. The texture and application is extremely thick and dense,
most closely resembling modern lip balms or lipsticks. The extremely emollient nature
stays moist and will not cake, is moderately waterproof, and provides the most opaque
coverage; but it can smudge, fade, and change color (darkening or oxidizing) during
wear.
Oil-based shakers
Oil-based shakers are different from

traditional oil-and-emollient based makeup
in that they were liquid foundations
developed before emulsifiers and binding
agent were available, and thus separate in
the bottle, like the alcohol-based formulas
mentioned below.
Once shaken, this is akin to applying coloured oil to the skin, with a smooth texture
than can provide medium coverage with a moist finish. It was a marked improvement in
application, stability and finish over the tradition oil bases, but improvements since then
have rendered these nearly extinct.
Alcohol based
Alcohol based uses a blend of water and denatured alcohol as the

base, with pigment added to it. It eliminated emollient and binding
agent that could clog pores, and needs to be shaken before use.
Alcohol-based foundations have the most lightweight, “nothing on
my face” feel, and nearly impossible to clog pores, but provide only
the sheerest coverage and can be tricky to apply and blend. They
work better with cotton balls or pads, instead of latex or sea sponges.
Powder-based
Powder-based uses powder — usually talc — as the main ingredient.

Pigment is added, along emollients, skin adhesion agents and binding
agents to the formula before it is pressed into pans. The difference
between this type of foundation and pressed powder is that this
provides more coverage (due to more pigment), and contains more

skin adhesion agents (to help it stick to the skin – because pressed powder is lighter
weight, it requires less). This provide a “finished” look and can blend from sheer to
nearly full coverage, but can look too floury and dry, especially around the eyes, or on
drier/mature skin. They can also flake and trickle down as they are applied and blended.
Mineral makeup
Mineral makeup most commonly refers to a foundation in loose

powder format. The most common minerals used as the base
are mica, bismuth oxychloride, titanium dioxide or zinc oxide.
However, talc is also a mineral, so a talc-based powder could be
considered a “mineral makeup” — although most mineral make-
up sold makes a point of being talc-free. A “mineral make-up”
may be all mineral, part mineral — or contain less than 1% mineral
as part of the finished formula.
Water-based make-up
Water-based make-up appeared after the end of World War 2,

with emulsifiers that could successfully keep a water-and-oil
blended emulsion stable being the key to their development.
This creamy liquid provided medium coverage with a far more
natural feel and appearance than oil, powder or emollient bases
of the time, and became popular with women since then.
Water-based cream make-up
Water-based cream make-up has a rich, creamy texture that can

be sheer to full coverage with a moist, satiny finish. It usually
comes in a jar or tube, and is much more comfortable and realistic
looking on the skin than the oil or emollient-based predecessors.
Water-based oil-free
Water-based oil-free eliminates oil altogether, but substitutes an emollient ester or fatty
alcohol in the base, and adds a mattifying agent — usually clay — to dry to a flat, non-
reflective (“matte”) finish. Oil-free liquids are quite thick and heavy, and the earliest
versions took time to pour out of the bottle. They provide solid medium coverage but dry
quickly, and can thus set before blended is complete. The result is streaking, which is then

difficult to smooth out without starting over from scratch. The usual recommendation
is to divide the face into quarter sections, and to apply and blend the makeup over one
section (rather than the entire face) at a time. Blending over moisturized skin with a wet
sponge can also help compensate for the lack of slip. However, they will last a long time
and resist smudging, even on very oily skin.

Water-based transfer-resistant
Water-based transfer-resistant follows the same formulation as oil-free, but uses a film
former or polymer instead of (or in addition to) the clay to achieve a matte finish that
resists being rubbed off. Transfer-resistant (sometimes called transfer-proof) makeup
will last on very oily skin, skin that perspires heavily, or in humid climates longer than any
other type of foundation, though it is even more difficult to apply than oil-free makeup.
The thick texture dries almost instantly, and requires a fair amount of experimentation
to master.
Silicone-based make-up
Silicone-based make-up uses a silicone or

a blend of water and silicone as the main
ingredient. The most typical silicones used
are dimethicone, polysiloxane and volatile
silicones such as cyclomethicone and
phenyl trimethicone. The silicone provides
lubrication and viscosity at a level equal
to, or often, even better than oil allowing
a product to apply and blend over the skin
smoothly and evenly. Silicones have a lighter
weight and are thus more comfortable on
the skin, as well as resisting filling in lines
or large pores on the face. Conventional
silicones stay supple and smooth, even in
dry climates, whereas volatile silicones last long enough to blend over the face, then
evaporate (like alcohol), leaving little to no feel behind. Silicone-based make ups are
less likely to oxidize or change colour during wear. One of the biggest challenges facing
silicone bases is the tendency for the product to break and/or ball up on the skin,
something unique to silicones and out of control of the user.

MAKEUP PRODUCTS
Choosing a makeup product line is similar to choosing a skin care line. There are some
good quality private label cosmetics. Quality is important when choosing products and
supplies. There is a difference between high-quality makeup (usually more expensive)
and less expensive generic brands. The quality of the products and brushes makes a
big difference in how makeup application will go for you, the artist, or for your client-
smoothly or not so smoothly.
Explain to clients why they should buy quality makeup and brushes. Why are they
better? Is quality going to make a difference on their skin? Will quality products glide
on easier and not tug on the delicate eye tissue?
Clients will be more satisfied with products that are easier to work with and will discover
that quality is worth the extra money.
You will be better equipped to make use of cosmetics in your professional services
when you have learned about their chemical composition and preparation. Once you
know these basics, you can use makeup to create optical illusions with shadowing,
highlighting, and color. The cosmetics industry offers a wide range of products designed
to improve the skin’s appearance as well as its condition. The cosmetics available today
meet the needs of every skin type. Most products come in a variety of forms: powders,
creams, sticks, wands, tubes, pans, and bottles.
MAKEUP PRODUCTS – CONCEALERS, FOUNDATIONS & MINERAL MAKEUP

CONCEALER
A concealer or color corrector is a type of makeup used to hide pimples, dark circles
and other small blemishes visible on the skin. Concealers usually do a good job of hiding
blemishes by blending the imperfection into the surrounding skin tone. This product is
mainly used by women, but use among men is increasing.
Both concealer and foundation are typically used to make skin appear more uniform in
color. These two types of cosmetics differ, in that; concealers tend to be more heavily
pigmented, though they are available in a wide range of opacity. Also, foundation is
usually applied to larger areas. The first commercially available concealer was Max
Factor’s erace, launched in 1938. Concealer can be used alone or in conjunction with
foundations.
Concealer provides extra cover to specific areas of the face that require more cover
than that provided by cosmetic foundations alone such as dark circles under the eyes, a
pimple, tiny veins, or redness at the sides of the nose. Concealer also offers a good base
for eye shadow when applied to the eyelids.

Concealers generally come in stick, liquid, or cream form. For blemishes, a thick dry
stick concealer is good; liquid concealers are thin and runny; cream works for almost
everything and everyone.
Concealer should be one or two shades lighter than your cosmetic foundations and
have the same undertone (go two shades lighter for very dark circles). Concealer comes
in a limited number of shades.

Concealer is available in a variety of shades, from lightest to deepest. Some colors

are intended to look like a natural skin tone, while others are meant to contrast with a
particular type of blemish.
»» White can be used to blur dark circles or bruising, and to brighten dull skin.
»» Green and blue can counteract red patches on the skin, such as those caused by
pimples, broken veins, or rosacea.
»» A purple-tinted concealer can make shallow complexions look brighter.
Colored concealers such as these are usually applied sparingly beneath a concealer
or foundation that matches the wearer’s skin tone. Skin-toned concealers are not only
the most common type, but are often sufficient on their own at hiding or blurring
imperfections.
Coverage
Coverage refers to the opacity of the makeup, or

how much it will conceal on the skin.
»» Sheer is the most transparent and contains

the least amount of pigment. It will not
hide discolorations on the skin; however,
it can minimise the contrast between the
discoloration and the rest of the skin tone.
Light can cover unevenness and slight blotchiness, but is not opaque enough to cover
freckles.

Medium coverage can, when set with a tinted (instead
of translucent) powder, cover freckles, discolorations,
blotchiness, and red marks left by pimples.
Full coverage is very opaque, and used to cover birthmarks,

vitiligo, hyper pigmentation and scars. It is sometimes
referred to as “corrective” or “camouflage” make-up.
FOUNDATION
Foundation is a skin colored cosmetic applied to the face to create an even, uniform
color to the complexion, to cover flaws, and, sometimes, to change the natural skin
tone. Foundation applied to the body is generally referred to as ‘Body painting”.

Pick a Color that Matches Your Skin Tone

It is also important to choose cosmetic foundations that looks
natural (closely matches your coloring) and fits the desired
effect you are seeking. You may require a separate concealer
for skin blemishes, blotches, under eye dark rings and other
discolorations.
Foundation should be applied to the skin first, before any other
make up product, since other products may not blend as well
to the naked skin and may even make blemishes and flaws look
more pronounce.
Cosmetic foundations may be water-based, oil-based or oil-

free, with varied consistencies and coverage, and are available
in liquid, cream or powder form.
Pan-Cake
The first commercially available foundation was Max Factor’s Pan-

Cake. Originally developed for use in film, actresses were so taken
with the results that Max Factor was overwhelmed with demand
for the product for their personal use. The breakthrough in his
formula was the first “foundation and powder in one”; traditionally,
an actor was made up with an oil / emollient based makeup,
which was then set with powder to reduce the reflection and
ensure it would not fade or smudge.

Pan-Cake used talc — rather than oil or wax — as the base, and, applied directly to the
skin with a wet sponge, it offered enough coverage (it could be layered without caking
on the skin) to eliminate the need for a foundation underneath. This was considered
significantly more lightweight and natural-looking on the skin than the standard method,
hence the keenness of people to wear the item in public. Although foundation make-up
was widely available and used within the film industry, the use of cosmetics in general
was still somewhat disreputable, and no one had tried to market foundation (although
lipstick, blush and nail polish were popular for daily use) as an everyday item.
Pressed Powder Foundations
Pressed cosmetic foundations give a smooth, matte finish to the skin that helps control
shine. It can be applied with either a damp or dry sponge. At first, it takes practice to
use the right amount of powder.
This type of foundation works for all skin types and is easy to carry around since it’s not
as messy as loose powder. This makes it quick and handy for touch ups. It is available in
more shades than loose powder.
When choosing a shade, get one as close to your foundation color as you can and use
lightly since it tends to accumulate on your skin during touch ups.
Liquid Foundations
These usually offer light to medium coverage, can be applied using a sponge and are
available in a wide range of colors that can be mixed to obtain in-between shades to
match your skin tone (only mix cosmetic foundations of the same brand). Because
liquid foundation is a more lightweight finish than compact it tends to be easier to use
on dry skin. It is also best applied using cosmetic sponges.
To avoid a streaky finish place a very small amount of foundation on sponges and
always brush over with powder. The powder helps the cosmetic foundations last longer.
Make sure you get the right cosmetic foundations for your skin type - choose an oil-
based foundation for dry skin, water-based foundation for normal skin, and “oil-free”
foundation for oily skin. You can apply moisturizer 5 to 10 minutes before beginning
your face powders application.

Cream Foundation
When using a cream-based cosmetic foundation,

concealer may be applied either before or after
the foundation. Use a wedge-shaped latex
sponge and light strokes to apply the foundation
across the face. You can tell how a cream formula
will cover by how it feels to the touch. The thicker
and heavier it feels, the more it covers. So if it
feels slightly dry it offers light to medium cover.
Very rich cream pigments are used for stage. Try
not to cover too thick with cream foundation or
it may look artificial and draw attention to itself.
Choosing the right foundation is an important part of your makeup routine. The type of
coverage you choose is just as important as the color you choose. The various textures
will cover in different ways, and as a result even choosing a color of the same name can
appear to be different colors on the skin. Foundation is a constantly evolving beauty
product and there is a formula available for every skin type and tone.
THE MOST POPULAR FOUNDATION TYPES
Tinted Moisturizers – All Skin Types
Tinted Moisturizers are

exactly what their name
would have you expect. They
are moisturizers with a slight
tint to them, often contain
sunscreen, and are the
lightest and easiest to use
foundation makeup. Falling
into the sheer category,
tinted moisturizers are ideal
for someone who is just
starting out with makeup,
such as a teenager or for
someone who wants to even out skin tone with minimal effort. Because this product is
also a moisturizer, there is no need to also apply a daily moisturizer with this product.
Use clean hands or a foundation brush to apply this type of makeup.

Liquid Foundation – Dry, Normal, or Combination Skin Types
Liquid foundation is one of the most popular formulas

in foundation makeup. It’s widely available in sheer,
medium, or heavy coverage. Using a brush to apply
liquid foundation will provide you with the best control,
although many people prefer to apply the makeup with
a damp or dry sponge. Liquid foundation is best for
those who seek medium coverage, have a few fine lines
or wrinkles, or basic, every day coverage.
Cream Foundation – Dry to Normal Skin Types
Cream foundation isn’t as popular as liquid foundation,

but it is an excellent choice for those who have dry skin
or more mature skin. It falls into the medium to heavy
coverage areas, and it’s rich and luxurious consistency
keep skin look soft and smooth, without drawing
attention to fine lines and wrinkles. Many companies
offer a cream to powder formula, which applies like a
cream, but dries with a matte, powder-like texture. This
makeup is best applied with a foundation brush or with
the sponge supplied by the manufacture
Powder Foundation – Combination to Oily Skin Types
Powder foundations often appear semi-matte or matte

in appearance, making them the best choice for skin that
tends to be on the oilier side. They provide medium to
heavy coverage and are best applied with a thick powder
brush, or the sponge supplied by the manufacturer.
Powder foundations tend to be heavy in titanium dioxide,
a common cosmetic ingredient and sunscreen, which
makes them less than ideal for brides or anyone who
may be in photographs. A separate powder for touching
up throughout the day is recommended, as reapplying
a powder foundation throughout the day will result in
a heavy, caked-on appearance. Oily skin types may also
prefer to use a foundation primer before applying their
makeup. This will help control shine and increase the
time in between touching up.

Selection
Although most artists squabble over the

significance of selecting an exact match to the
wearer’s skin tone, intentionally using a mismatch
can achieve a desired result.
»» An excessively red complexion can be

minimized by using a clear (meaning
neither yellow nor pink) beige toned
foundation.
»» A sallow or dull complexion can be

brightened with a rose to red tint
»» To tint mature skin that has lost its color and appears pale and dull can be
brightened with a tint of clear pink;
»» Olive or ashy skin can be brightened with a shot of peach.
A crucial point in selecting a foundation shade is to recognize that the appearance of

the shade in the container may not accurately gauge the color impact on the skin — a
foundation that appears very yellow in the bottle may go on much less yellow, or not
appear yellow at all.
When to use different forms of concealer and foundation:
»» Cosmetic foundations such as powders and liquid foundation are used to create
a clear, smooth skin tone - the illusion of seemingly flawless skin texture that will
last as long as you desire.
»» Foundations provide the perfect base for the application of the rest of your
make up products.
»» Face make up is meant to provide light to medium skin coverage and comes in
a wide variety of colors and different types.
»» You may want to use the lightest covering during the summer and the heavier
one during the winter.

Summary:
»» Foundation is used to enhance the color of the skin & provide a uniform look,
whereas, concealer is used to hide pimples, blemishes and scars.
»» Concealer has a much heavier pigmentation when compared to foundation.
»» A person could mix different foundation colors & formulations to create the
desired effect, whereas, concealers are generally available in all the possible
combinations.
»» Foundation is applied to larger areas, like the face and neck, whereas concealer
is only applied to smaller, problematic areas.
»» Concealers can be used together with other concealers or foundations, but
foundation is generally used independently.
Powder
Face Powders are an essential step in your makeup routine. Powder does two things to
your make-up. Firstly it sets your makeup perfectly, giving a smooth even finish to your
complexion. Secondly, it helps to prevent the appearance of shine on the areas most
prone to oiliness-the central panel. Powder gives a finished, shine free look to make up
Application
Make sure the foundation is well blended. Blot the face lightly with a tissue, especially
over the forehead, nose and chin. Pick up the powder on the puff and press it firmly on
the face, one area at a time. Never rub powder on your face. Let it set for a few seconds,
Now using a soft, thick powder brush, whisk away the excess, with downward movement
to stop the powder getting caught in the fine facial hair.
Shades of Powder
Select a powder of your skin tone or a shade lighter than your skin tone. If your skin
happens to be pale, then choose a powder with a rosy beige tint. If you are going to use
it over foundation, go in for a translucent powder.
Powder on Mature Skin:
Avoid powder on fine lines under your eyes. The powder may collect in the lines, making
them more prominent.

TYPES OF MAKEUP POWDER:
1. LOOSE POWDER
Fine loose translucent powders are the best for a finished pore less
look, It is especially good if used in the morning to set your makeup,
as it will keep you makeup looking fresh all day. Loose powder is
applied with a puff.
2. PRESSED POWDER
Pressed powders are used for touch-ups as they are easy to carry. So
when you’re on the go, compact (pressed powder) gives you a soft,
beautiful look anytime. It is applied with a brush using downwards
movements, to minimize the impact of facial hair. The powder helps
your make up look ‘just put on’ (fresh) much longer by stopping oil
from coming through. Do not use the puff of the compact. Use a
proper puff or a thick powder brush to powder yourself.
3. WHICH POWDER TO USE?

They are available in either compact or loose form. It is important to set your foundation
with a loose powder. This helps to keep your foundation in place. Compact powders
should be used for touch ups.
Fine loose translucent powders are the best, as the pressed powders tend to cake and
streak. Translucent Powders are light in texture providing a sheer, natural finish However
if you have an extra oily skin, it is advisable to wear a matte translucent powder. which
is sheer and contain loads of oil natural absorbers.
If you use a translucent powder over your foundation or concealer, it will set your
makeup without adding too much extra color. Complexion powders on the other hand,
have a greater degree of color and because they are more opaque, can be used alone
EYE SHADOW
Eye shadows accentuate and contour the eyes. They are available in almost every color
of the rainbow, from warm to cool, neutral to bright, and light to dark. Some powder
eye shadows are designed to be used wet or dry. They also come in a variety of finishes,
including matte, frost, shimmer, or dewy.

EYE SHADOW CHEMISTRY
Eye shadow is available in stick, cream, pressed, and dry powder

form. Stick and cream shadows are water-based with oil, petroleum,
thickener, wax, perfume, preservatives, and color added. Water-
resistant shadows have a solvent base, such as mineral spirits.
Pressed and dry powder shadows are composed much the same
as pressed face powder and powdered cheek color.
USING EYE SHADOW
When applied to the lids, eye shadow makes the eyes appear brighter and more
expressive. Matching eye shadow to eye color creates a flat field of color and should
generally be avoided. Using color other than the eye color (that is, a contrasting or
complementary color) can enhance the eyes. Using light and dark can also bring
attention to the eyes. Generally, a darker shade of eye shadow makes the natural color
of the iris appear lighter, while a lighter shade makes the iris appear deeper.
However, the only set rules for the selection of eye makeup colors are that they should
enhance the client’s eyes and that color choices should be more subtle for daytime. If
desired, eye makeup color may match or coordinate with the client’s clothing color.
Eye shadow colors are generally referred to as highlighters, bases, and contour / dark
colors. A highlight color is lighter than the client’s skin tone and may have any finish.
Popular choices include mane or iridescent (shiny). As the name suggests, these colors
highlight a specific area, such as the brow bone. Remember that a lighter color such as
white will make an area appear larger.
A base color is generally a medium tone that is close to the clients skin tone. It is
available in a variety of finishes. This color is generally used to even out the skin tone on
the eye. It is often applied all over the lid and brow bone, from lash to brow, before other
colors ,to applied, thus providing a smooth surface fat the blending of other colors. If
used this way, a matte finish is generally preferred.
A contour color is a color, in any finish, that is deeper and darker than the client’s skin
tone. It is applied to minimize a specific area, to create contour in a crease, or to define
the eyelash line.
To apply eye shadow, remove the product from its container with a spatula, then use
a fresh applicator or clean brush. Unless you are doing corrective makeup, apply the
eye color close to the lashes on the upper eyelid, sweeping the color slightly upward
and outward. Blend to achieve the desired effect. Mote than one color may be used if
a particular look is desired.

EYELINERS
Eyeliner is used to outline and emphasize the eyes. It is available in a variety of colors,
in pencil, liquid, pressed (cake), or felt-tip pen form. With eyeliner, you can create a line
on the eyelid close to the lashes to make the eyes appear larger and the lashes fuller.
EYELINER CHEMISTRY
Eyeliner pencils consist of a wax (paraffin) or hardened oil base (petrolatum) with a
variety of additives to create color. They are available in both soft and hard form for use
on the eyebrow as well as the upper and lower eyelid.
USING EYELINERS
Most clients prefer eyeliner that is the same color as the lashes or mascara for a more
natural look. More dramatic colors may be preferred to match seasonal color trends. Be
extremely cautious when applying eyeliner. You must have a steady hand and be sure
that your client remains still. Sharpen the eyeliner pencil and wipe with a clean tissue
before each use. Also, remember to sanitize the sharpener before each use.
Apply to the desired area with short strokes and gentle pressure; the most common
placement is close to the lash line. For powder shadow liner application, scrape a small
amount onto a tissue and apply w the eyes with a disposable applicator or clean brush.
If desired, wet the brush before the application for a more dramatic look.
Eye shadow in pressed powder form may be applied to the eyes with an eyeliner brush
to create a softer lined effect. While using shadow or pencil liner, it may be helpful to
gently pull the skin taut, from right below the eyebrow up, to ensure smooth application.
EYEBROW COLOR
Eyebrow pencils or shadows are used to add color and shape to the
eyebrows. They can be used to darken the eyebrows, correct their
shape, or fill sparse areas.
EYEBROW COLOR CHEMISTRY
The chemistry of eyebrow pencils is similar to that of eyeliner pencils The chemical
ingredients in eyebrow shadows are also similar w those in eye shadows.


USING EYEBROW COLOR
Sharpen the eyebrow pencil and wipe with a clean tissue

before each use. Sanitize the sharpener before each use.
For powder shadow application, scrape a small amount
onto a tissue and use a disposable applicator or clean
brush to apply shadow to brows. Avoid harsh contrasts
between hair and eyebrow color, such as pale blonde
or silver hair with black eyebrows. Brown is usually the
best choice.
MASCARA
Mascara darkens, defines, and thickens the eyelashes. It is available in liquid, cake, and
cream form and in a variety of shades and tints. The most popular mascara colors are
shades of brown and black, which enhance the natural lashes, making them appear
thicker and longer.
MASCARA CHEMISTRY
Mascaras are polymer products that contain water, wax, thickeners, film formers, and
preservatives in their formulations. The pigments in mascara must be inert and usually
are carbon black, carmine, ultramarine, chromium oxide, and iron oxides. Some wand
mascaras contain rayon or nylon fibers lengthen and thicken the hair fibers.
USING MASCARA
Dip a disposable wand into a clean tube of mascara, and apply dose
of the base of the lashes our toward the tips, making sure your client
is comfortable throughout the application. Dispose of the wand. Never
double-dip.
While using an eyelash curler, you must curl the lashes before applying
mascara. If lashes are curled after mascara, eyelashes may be broken
or pulled out. Use extreme caution whenever you use an eyelash curler.
It is easier to learn how to use this by first observing its use. Ask your
instructor to demonstrate before attempting w use an eyelash curler
on someone else.

Apply mascara carefully. The most common injury with mascara application is poking
the eye with the applicator. Practice applying mascara repeatedly until you feel confident
enough to apply it on clients.
LIP COLOR
Lip color, lipstick, or gloss is a cosmetic in paste form. Some lip colors contain sunscreen
protect the lips from the harmful effects of the sun. Others contain moisturizers to keep
lips from becoming dry or chapped.
LIP COLOR CHEMISTRY
Lip color is available in a variety of forms: creams, glosses, pencils, gels, and sticks. All are
formulas of oils, waxes, and dyes. Castor oil is the primary ingredient in lipsticks; other
oils used are olive, mineral, sesame, cocoa butter, petroleum, lecithin, and hydrogenated
vegetable oils. Waxes commonly included in the ingredients are paraffin, beeswax,
carnauba, and calendula wax.
USING LIP COLOR
Lipsticks come in a variety of colors. Consider the client’s preferences,

eye color, skin tone, and lip shape before variety of colors, textures.
and forms, selecting and applying lip color. The current fashion trend
may be lighter or darker lipstick colors, or a certain style, such as
heavily lined or glossy, lightly Stained, or matte.
Lip color must not be applied directly from the container unless it
belongs to the client. Use a spatula to remove the lip color from the
container, and then take it from the spatula with a disposable lip
brush. Use the tip of the brush to line the lips. Connect the center
peaks using rounded strokes, following the natural lip line. Aim for
symmetry and balance.
LIP LINER
Lip liners are colored pencils used to outline and fill in the lips. Lining
the lips also helps to keep lip color from feathering. Lip liner is often
used when doing corrective makeup. Lip liner comes in thin or thick
pencil form and is available in a variety of finishes. Some lip liners

double as lipstick. Lip liner is usually applied before lip color to ensure the proper shape
and definition of the lips. Choose a lip liner that coordinates with the natural lip color or
lipstick. The liner color should not be dramatically darker or brighter than the lip shade.
If a darker liner is desired, fill in most of the lip with the liner and blend the lip color and
lip liner to avoid harsh lines. Sharpen the lip liner pencil and wipe with a clean tissue
before each use. Also, remember to sanitize the sharpener before every use.
MAKEUP ESSENTIALS
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES
Supplies/Accessories include the following: Sponges are good for blending foundation,
concealer, and powder. Wedge shapes are the most versatile. Use the large thicker end
of the sponge for foundation to get more coverage and control. Use the smaller sides
to blend around the eyes. Brushes to blend powder, blush, and eye shadows work better
than sponge tips or fingers. You can get better control and better blending.
They also feel nicer to the skin and are more professional. Make sure you sanitize brushes
between clients. Be prepared and have enough on hand for multiple uses throughout
the day. Buy good quality brushes.
An art store or a brush wholesaler is good suppliers.

MAKEUP SUPPLIES CHECKLIST
Skin care Makeup Supplies/Accessories
Cleanser Concealer Cape
Toner Highlighter Alcohol
Moisturizer Contour colors Tweezers
Sunscreen Foundation Hair clip/hair band
Powder Brushes
Eye shadow Pencil sharpener
Eyeliner Mirror
Mascara Lash comb
Blush Lash curler
Disposables (spatulas, Q-tips, mascara wands,

Lip gloss
mixing cups, sponges, tissues, applicators)
Lip liners
Lip sticks

MAKEUP SUPPLIES CHECKLIST
Skin care Supplies/Accessories
Eyelash Curlers
Angled brush - for lines and brows
Natural foundation sponge
Eyelash Comb - to separate lashes
Liner brush - for eyeliner
Foam blender - to soften pencil liner
Brush blender - to soften eye shadow

Tweezers -for all unwanted hair
Dust-away brush - for under eyes
Sharp scissors
Latex sponge - cream foundation
Hair clips
THE MAKEUP STATION AND CONSULTATION AREA
The area that you use for services and consultations must be dean and tidy. No one
wants to see a messy makeup unit or dirty brushes lying about. Clean your brushes after
each use and tidy your makeup area daily. Also, keep a portfolio in the consultation area
that includes photographs of your own work or pictures from magazines. The client can
go through your portfolio and find styles and colors that appeal to her. Try to have the
makeup service area in a visible, yet semi-private area of the salon for client privacy.

- NOTES -

Brush Types & Uses
Objective – This chapter helps to understand

different make up brushes and its uses to
achieve a professional make up look.
Makeup is an art. Every stroke and every

colour choice you make is a definite act
towards getting the final image. Knowing
the tools of your trade is foremost thing you
need to know. In this case, the tools of your
trade would happen to the different types of
makeup brushes.
Knowing right tools & techniques is a key factor in obtaining that professionally done
look.
A makeup artist would go crazy picking up brushes in today’s time understanding the
availability of variations in the market. A basic understanding of main brush category
will help to choose the right brush.
Brushes can be divided as per the steps of Makeup application.
Concealer Brush - Helps you cover and conceal the targeted spots and blemishes
perfectly. Works great for cream based concelaers. It plays an important part in
distributing the product in hard-to-reach areas like around the eye, around the nose,
and over the eyelid. It is best to use synthetic brushes with no more than a 1/4” width for
better control. Always remember to pat in concealer with the brush do not rub.
Foundation brush - This brush is designed for applying liquid foundation.

Foundation brushes have tightly packed bristles of varying lengths to help
achieve a smooth, non-streaky finish. You can apply foundation to your
face and then use the brush to spread and blend or alternatively apply your
foundation directly to the brush and then apply to the face, starting at the nose
and working your way out. I find the second method uses fewer products and
allows for a more precise application. If you’re not sure whether a foundation
brush purchase is worth it, consider the following points:
»» It’s more hygienic.
»» It applies your foundation more evenly and precisely.
»» You don’t waste any foundation on your fingers
»» You don’t have to wash your hands afterwards.

Stippling Brush - A stippling brush, also known as a duo-fibre brush or skunk brush is
a multi-purpose brush that is most commonly used with liquid foundation, blush and
bronzer. The black bristles are tightly packed together and usually made out of animal
hair. Poking out above these are the white bristles, generally made from synthetics.
The flat, circular, feathery head provides lightweight and buildable coverage that won’t
remove any of the make-up you’ve already applied, so it’s perfect for layering.
Small and Big Powder Brushes - For that professional touch of satin smooth finish, you
need to apply compact powder / loose powder with a brush. You can choose from big
or small variants of brushes. The small ones help you to apply powder in and around
your eye area while the bigger ones help you apply powder on to your cheeks, chin, and
forehead and along the top of your nose bone. Pat the brush into your powder product,
dust off any excess and apply using sweeping and circular motions.
Brow and Lash Brush:- The unique design of the brow and lash brush gives you two
advantages. The brush side is used to groom the brow in the proper direction. The
comb side is used to separate the lashes before you apply mascara.
Eye brow Brush:- In order to create a clean and crisp brow, the brush should have an
angle for better control. It should have short, tight bristles.
Eye Base Brush & Angle Eye Shadow brush - There are many different types of eye
shadow brushes, but these two are the most commonly used. The eye base brush is
used to apply colour to your entire eyelid. It’s wide, flat and short, with a beveled edge
to allow smooth application without pulling on the eyelid. Once a base colour has been
applied, the angled eye shadow brush or contour eye shadow brush is then used for
layering colour and creating hard lines along the eyelid crease.
Eye Shader: Simply buff over the applied line to soften the edges and create a smoky
look. Always use a separate brush for each color. One brush should be kept for shading
and one brush should be kept for highlighting.
Smudger Brush - Sometimes found on the other end of an eye pencil, a smudger brush
is ideal for softening hard lines and creating a smoldering look. The dome shaped bristles
are shaped to fit perfectly into the crease of the eye and is a must-have for creating
smokey eyes.

Liner Brush:- Like the brow brush, the liner brush should also have an angle with short
tight bristles for control. The liner brush should be thinner than the brow brush. There
are variety of liner brushes, the thickness of the brush depends on the how thick or thin
the liner application is required.
Blush Brush - Blusher needs to be applied very lightly with gentle strokes on to cheek
hollows or on to the cheeks apples with gentle circular touch. The blusher brush is
made with fine, gentle fibres with a soft rounded head for a smooth even application.
Contour /Bronzer Brush - This brush can be used for using a darker color of blush and
also for bronzers on to the contour of cheek, on sides of chin and sides of forehead and
also along the sides of bone line of nose for an extremely chiseled look. The slanted
bristles are intended to mimic the angle of your cheekbones, so it’s perfect for blending,
highlighting and shading using a bronzer or illuminating powder.
Lip Brush - The lip brush is a smaller sized filbert brush. The tapered tip will have a
crisper edge around the lip line that allows better control when applying lip color.
Holding the Brush - There are various ways to hold a brush. It is best to experiment
and find a position that is comfortable and gives you the greatest control .For greater
control it is sometimes useful to rest your little finger lightly on canvas . Some make-up
artist will use a clean powder – puff under their working hand to avoid contact with the
model’s skin . It is very important not to lean on the model.
The width of brush stroke will depend on how much pressure is applied to the brush.
For fine strokes the tip of the brush should glide over the canvas; to make wider strokes,
that is created – longer affect the type of stroke that is create loose more flowing
strokes spoiling your make than shorter ones. The firmness or softness of the hair will
also affect the brush stroke.
Cleaning Makeup brushes - Cleaning brushes at regular intervals is essential because if

not cleansed efficiently and the proper way would damage the brushes and also impact
your reputation by spoiling your makeup

Do’s: Right Way to Clean Makeup Brushes
Wash your brushes once a week, or once in two weeks depending on usage. Opt for an
alcohol based cleanser (Brush cleansers), if you are short of time. Spray it on a paper
towel and then sweep the brush against the paper towel until it’s clean.
Use a gentle shampoo to clean brushes.
Gently squeeze out excess water, Reshape bristles and let the brushes dry overnight.
Allow your brushes to dry completely or at least 8 hours before using.
Hand dry your brushes upside down
Don’ts: Wrong way to Clean Makeup Brushes
Do not mix used and clean make up brushes, so as to ensure that bacteria doesn’t get
transferred from the dirty brushes to the unused ones.
Do not blow-dry or use direct sunlight to dry your brushes, as it can cause permanent
damage to your brushes.
Do not rough up the bristles too much during cleansing as it can permanently damage
the brush.
Do not let the water drip into the metallic ferrule as it might wet the root of bristles and
cause shedding.
Do not let your brushes dry standing up (bristles facing upwards) as Water will seep
down to the bristles into the brush and loosen the glue holding the hairs together
leading the brush to fall apart.

- NOTES -

Colour Theory
As a make-up artist, you will always have clients ask you: “What Colours look best
on me?” or “How do I find the best foundation shade?” You know the answer will be
different on each individual because each of us is unique in our own way, and we thus,
you must have an understanding about basic Colour theory in order to choose Colours
for you & your clients. To help us understand the basics of Colour theory, we need know
about a Colour wheel.
THE COLOUR WHEEL
A Colour Wheel is a tool in which there are 12

Colours placed in a circle. The Colour wheel is
divided into three categories: Primary, Secondary,
and Tertiary. The position of the Colours on the
circle demonstrates the relationship of each primary
Colour to the other Colours on the Colour wheel.
Primary Colours: Red, yellow and blue. Primary Colours are the pure pigment Colours
that can not created by mixing or formed by combining or mixing any other Colours. All
other Colours are derived from these 3 Colours.
Secondary Colours: Green, orange and purple. These are the Colours formed by mixing
the primary Colours.
Tertiary Colours: Yellow-orange, red-orange, red-purple, blue-purple, blue-green

& yellow-green. These are the Colours formed by mixing a primary its neighbouring
secondary Colour.
WARM & COOL COLOURS –
The color wheel can be divided into warm and cool colors. By understanding the
differences of warm & cool colors, it will help you better in foundation & concealer color
matching on different color skin tones.

Warm colors are bright, passionate and energetic, and
tend to be eye-popping colors. Warm colors include:
red, orange, and yellow, and variations of those three
colors. In make-up artistry, reds can be both cool and
warm. If the red is blue based (a red with purple or blue
undertone), it is cool. If the red is orange based, it is
warm.
Cool colors give an impression of calm, and create a

soothing impression. Cool colors include: violet, blue,
and green. In make-up artistry, the same theory applies
with the color green. If a green has more gold/yellow
undertone, then it is warm. If a green contains bluer undertone, then it is cool. Whenever
most colors have a blue undertone, they will always be a cool colour.
White, black and gray are considered to be neutral.
TINTS, SHADES, AND TONES
Hue: another term used for color is Hue. These colors are basic and intense. Once you
have the basic colors, you can adjust them by adding white or black or gray, changing
the brightness and density of the colors.
If a color is made lighter by adding white, the result is called a tint. If black is added, the
darker version is called a shade. And if gray is added, the result is a different tone.
Tints - adding white to a pure hue:
Shades - adding black to a pure hue:

Tones - adding gray to a pure hue:
COLOR HARMONIES - BASIC TECHNIQUES FOR CREATING COLOR SCHEMES
Complementary color scheme

Colors that are opposite each other on the color wheel are
considered to be complementary colors (example: red and green).
The high contrast of complementary colors creates a vibrant look

Complementary color schemes are tricky to use in large doses, but
work well when you want something to stand out.
Analogous color scheme

Analogous color schemes use colors that are next to each other
on the color wheel. They usually match well and create serene look
suited for Daytime make-up. Analogous color schemes are often
found in nature and are harmonious and pleasing to the eye.
Choose one color to dominate, a second to support. The third color

is used (along with black, white or gray) as an accent.
Triadic color scheme

A triadic color scheme uses colors that are evenly spaced around
the color wheel. Triadic color schemes tend to be quite vibrant,
even if you use pale or unsaturated versions of your hues.
To use a triadic harmony successfully, the colors should be carefully

balanced - let one color dominate and use the two others for
accent.

Split-Complementary color scheme
The split-complementary color scheme is a variation of the
complementary color scheme. In addition to the base color, it uses
the two colors adjacent to its complement.
This color scheme has the same strong visual contrast as the
complementary color scheme, but has less tension.
USING THE COLOR WHEEL TO APPLY YOUR MAKEUP
Color wheel is the principal tool used for make-up application. It is used throughout in
all the facets of Makeup application. It is a primary Concealing, Finalizing color schemes
as per skin color, skin tone, Hair color, eye color, outfit and as per client’s need and
requirement.
CONCEALER & COLOR CORRECTING WITH COLOR WHEEL
When you mix complimentary colors together (eg. mix red

and green), they will combine to produce a neutral brown. It
doesn’t mean you want to produce gray color on your face,
it just means you will use the opposite color to neutralize (or
cancel out) the color (skin tone or blemish) on your skin.
This theory is widely used for color correcting on the face and under eye concealing

Under-Eye concealer Application—If someone has a purple under-eye that you want
to conceal, for the best result, use a concealer with yellow undertone, OR use a yellow
color corrector to neutralize the purple under-eye first, then use a concealer on top to
match the person’s natural skin tone.
The same theory works for people who have lots of dark blue under-eye color (which
is often found in darker, brownish skin tone), it is best to use an orange color corrector
(or a mix of orange & ocher colors) first to neutralize the dark blue under-eye, then use
a concealer on top to match the person’s natural skin tone.

USING THE COLOR WHEEL TO APPLY YOUR EYE MAKEUP
Complementary color scheme - When complementary colors are placed next to each
other they appear brighter. Used to achieve greater amount of contrast. Used by make-
up artist to enhance eye color and for Dramatic make up
Complementary
Color Eye Make-up
Look
For blue eyes: Since orange is the opposite color of blue, anything with orange in it will
make blue eyes stand out more. Undertones like gold, apricot, or peach.
For green eyes: Red is the opposite color of green, which isn’t to say you should apply a
cherry red-colored eye shadow to your lids. Red undertones, like deep plums and wine.
For brown eyes: Brown is a neutral color, so any color will work well. But the most
standout colors are blue and purple.
Monochromatic color scheme - This color schemes use the

same color with variation in value and intensity throughout
the entire makeup design.
Analogous color scheme - Analogous color schemes use

colors that are next to each other on the color wheel. They
usually match well and create serene look suited for Daytime
make-up.
Analogous color schemes are often found in nature and are harmonious and pleasing
to the eye.
Choose one color to dominate, a second to support. The third color is used (along with
black, white or gray) as an accent.

- NOTES -

Facial Anatmony & Shapes
Make-up is used to enhance and accentuate the facial features to make us appear more
attractive. Our face shape is formed by the underlying bone and muscle structure. A
makeup artist should understand facial anatomy and face shapes to create the makeup
and the look required
FACIAL ANATOMY
Facial Anatomy and Features
THE SKELETAL SYSTEM
»» Skeletal is the physical framework or foundation of the body
»» There are 206 bones in the body
»» Bones are composed of 1/3 organic matter (cells & blood) 2/3 mineral matter
(calcium- phosphate)
Functions of Bones
»» Give strength and shape to the body
»» Protect organs from injury
»» Serves as attachments for muscles
»» Facilitates bodily movements
»» Produces blood cells (red bone marrow)
»» Source of calcium (Vitamin D)
Two Divisions of the Skeletal System
1. Axial Skeleton - 80 bones
2. Appendicular Skeleton - 126 bones

1. AXIAL SKELETON
Skull- the skeleton of the head - 22 bones
Skull consists of :
»» Cranium - 8 bones
»» Facial - 14 bones
Bones of the Cranium - 8 bones

»» Occipital (1) - forms the lower back part of the cranium
»» Parietal (2) - forms the sides and crown of the head
»» Frontal (1) - forms the forehead
»» Temporal (2) - forms the sides of the head in the ear region
»» Ethmoid (1) - between the eye sockets and forms part of the nasal cavity
»» Sphenoid (1) - joins all the bones of the cranium together

Facial Bones - 14 bones
»» Nasal (2) - forms the bridge of the nose
»» Lacrimal (2) - located at the inner part of the walls of the eye socket
»» Zygomatic or Malar (2) - cheek bones
»» Maxillae (2) - upper jawbones
»» Mandible (1) - lower jawbone- strongest and largest bone in the face
»» Turbinal (2) - on the outer walls of the nasal depression
»» Vomer (1) - forms the dividing wall of the nose
»» Palatine (2) - forms the hard palate together with the maxillae


Bones of the Neck
»» Hyoid - (1) known as Adam’s Apple Serves as a muscle attachment for the
tongue It doesn’t connect to any other bone in the body
»» Cervical Vertebrae - (7) forms the top of the spinal column in the region of the
Neck
THE MUSCULAR SYSTEM
Muscular System – covers, shapes and supports the skeleton
Muscles
»» Contractile fibrous tissues upon which various movements of the body depend
»» System relies on the skeletal system and the nervous system for control
»» There are over 500 muscles in our body
»» Comprises 40- 50% of the weight of the body
Muscles of the Scalp - EPICRANIUS - broad muscle that covers the top of the skull,
consists of two parts-
»» OCCIPITALIS - back of the Epicranius that draws the scalp backward
»» FRONTALIS - front of the epicranius that raises the eyebrows, draws the scalp
forward & causes wrinkles across the forehead
»» APONEUROSIS - tendon that connects the occipitalis and the frontalis
Muscles of the Eyebrow
»» ORBICULARIS OCULI - ring muscle of the eye socket, closes

the eye
»» CORRUGATOR - draws the eyebrow down and in and

produces vertical lines as in frowning

Muscle of the Nose -
»» PROCERUS - covers the top of the nose and causes

wrinkles across the bridge of the nose
Muscles of the Mouth

»» LEVATOR LABII SUPERIORIS - also known as QUADRATUS LABII SUPERIORIS
- surrounds the upper lip-elevates the upper lip and dilates the nostrils, as in
expressing distaste
»» DEPRESSOR LABII INFERIORIS - also known as QUADRATUS LABII INFERIORIS
- surrounds the lower lip and depresses the lower lip and draws it to one side as
in expressing sarcasm
»» BUCCINATOR - thin flat muscles between the lower and upper jaw, compresses
the cheeks and expels air between the lips as in blowing
»» LEVATOR ANGULI ORIS - also known as CANINUS- raises the angle of the
mouth and draws it inward as in snarling
»» MENTALIS - at the tip of the chin, causes wrinkling of the chin as in doubt or
displeasure
»» ORBICULARIS ORIS - forms a flat band around the upper and lower lips, it
compresses, contracts, puckers and wrinkles- as in kissing or whistling
»» RISORIUS - draws the corners of the mouth out and back as in grinning
»» ZYGOMATICUS - extends from the zygomatic bone to the angle of the mouth
and elevates the lips as in laughing
»» TRIANGULARIS - extends along the side of the chin and draws down the corners
of the mouth

Muscles of the Ear - are practically functionless
»» AURICULAJRIS SUPERIOR - above the ear
»» AURICULARIS POSTERIOR - behind the ear
»» AURICULARIS ANTERIOR - front of the ear
Muscles of the Neck
»» PLATYSMA - broad muscle that extends from the chest and shoulder muscle to
the side of the chin, depresses the lower jaw & lip (ex; sadness). It is also known
as the screaming muscle
»» STERNO-CLEIDO MASTOID - extends from collar & chest bones to the temporal
bone as in the back of the head and also bends the head, as in nodding

- NOTES -

Face Shapes
For a perfect make up there has to be a balance between all the features. No individual
feature exists in isolation, and balancing any one part of the face has an affect on the
face as a whole. Face shapes can be used as a guide to create an illusion of ideal face.
UNDERSTANDING FACE SHAPE
Face shape is the single most important consideration in

getting a perfect make up.
There are lots of suggestions on how to figure out your shape,
from outlining your face shape on a mirror with lipstick to
draping it with a towel and asking others to help you guess
the shape. But, there is actually a scientific way to determine
your face shape once and for all. To find out the shape of your
face, measure it with a tape measure or ruler. You will take the
following measurements.
»» Measure your face across the top of your Cheekbones. Write down the
measurement on a piece of paper.
»» Measure across your jaw line from the widest point to the widest point. Write
down the measurement.
»» Measure across the forehead at the widest point. Generally the widest point will
be somewhere about halfway between your eyebrows and your hairline. Write
down the measurement.
»» Measure from the tip of your hairline to the bottom of your chin.
There are five basic face shapes that are used most often. Many people have a
combination of
Following are the five basic face shapes for you to identify and understand the
differences:

TYPES OF FACE SHAPES
»» OVAL FACE – Length equal to one and half times width.
»» ROUND FACE – Your face is more rounded at the jaw line and forehead.
There are no sharp edges on the face. This may vary a little but generally the
measurement is close.
»» OBLONG / RECTANGULAR – Longer than it is wide.
»» TRAINGULAR – Narrow at the forehead, wide at the jaw line. Reverse of the
heart shape.
»» HEART – Narrow at jaw line, wide at cheekbones / and or forehead.
»» SQUARE – Your face is about as wide as it is long.
»» DIAMOND – Widest at cheekbones, narrow forehead and jaw line of approximately
equal widths.
OVAL FACE: Only slightly narrower at the jaw line than at the
temples, with a gently rounded hairline.
»» The face is slightly longer then it is wide.
»» The forehead is slightly broader than the jawline.
»» The jawline is rounded with no harsh lines.
»» The widest point is the cheeks.
»» The face resembles a inverted egg.
ROUND FACE: Full – looking face with a round chin and hairline.
Widest point is at the cheeks and ears
»» The forehead and jawline are roughly the same width.
»» The forehead is rounded.
»» The jawline is full and rounded, no angles or points.
»» The widest point is the cheeks

RECTANGULAR OR OBLONG: Long and slender, about the same
width at forehead and just below cheekbones. May have a very
long hain or a very high forehead.
»» The face is longer than it is wider.
»» The width of the face is narrow.
»» The jawline is softly rounded and may come to a point.
»» The forehead is rounded.
»» The forehead and jawline are similar in width.
»» The sides of your face are straight.
HEART / INVERTED TRIANGLE: Face is wide at the temples and

hairline, narrowing to be small delicate chin.
»» The forehead is the widest part of the face.
»» The sides of the cheeks taper down into the jawline.
»» The chin is narrow and pointed.
SQUARE: A strong, square jaw line and usually an equally square

hairline.
»» The length and width of the face is equal in size.
»» The sides of the face are straight.
»» The jaw is board and noticeably square shaped.
»» The chin is usually flat rather than pointed.
»» The cheeks are the widest point.

DIAMOND : A cross between heart and a dramatic oval. Widest at
the cheekbones, and narrow equally at the forehead and jaw line.
»» The forehead and jawline are similar in width.
»» The jawline is long and tapers into a pointed chin.
»» The cheeks are the widest part.
»» The cheeks are high.
Understanding of Facial Anatomy and Shapes and its relation to each other help to use
makeup to change the perceived size and shape of our features and create the best
makeup

- NOTES -

Skin Tone
Our skin is our biggest organ, and it comes in many different Colours. These different
Colours, referred to as skin tones, are determined by our outer layer’s supply of a
pigment called melanin. People with darker skin have more melanin than people with
pale skin.
The skin’s undertone is the warm, cool, or neutral hue that shows through the surface
Colour of skin. Although the surface Colour of skin changes depending on sun exposure
and other skin conditions like rosacea and acne, the skins undertone remains consistent.
Skin tone is so important in choosing the right makeup. Understanding of skin Colour
& skin tone is the starting point for makeup. Everything else is determined by the skin
Colour and tone – Eye shadow, lip Colour etc…
VERY FAIR FAIR MEDIUM OLIVE DARK BLACK
SKIN COLOUR
Knowing Undertones
An undertone is the Colour that’s just beneath the skin, and while your skin tone can
change (over time, with sun exposure, etc.), the undertone does not. There are 3 distinct
tones and Foundations usually are recommended for one of three undertone types:
“cool,” “neutral,” or “warm.” It’s possible, though, to fall somewhere in between (you
could be “neutral-warm,” for instance).
Those with cool undertones will notice their skin has a pink, red, or blue tinge to it. You
have a “cool” undertone if:
»» If the veins on your wrist are blue or

purple
»» If silver jewelry flatters your skin

more than gold
»» When you look at your skin in the

sun, it appears bluish

Those with warm undertones will notice their skin has a yellow, gold, or peach tinge to
it. You have a “warm” undertone if:
»» The veins on your wrist are slightly

green or olive
»» Gold jewelry flatters your skin more

than silver

sun, it appears yellowish
If you have neutral undertones, your skin is neither pink/red/blue nor yellow/gold/
peach, but somewhere in between. You have a “neutral” undertone if:
»» The veins on your wrist are blue-

green
»» Both gold and silver jewelry flatter

your skin

sun, it appears greenish
SKIN TONE TEST
Knowing whether your undertone is warm, cool or neutral is the key to ensuring that
your foundation matches your skin and Colour products look natural, not contrived.
When foundation doesn’t properly match skin’s undertone, the Colour stands out as
orange to copper, pink to rose, or ashen. If makeup looks like the right Colour in the
package but looks odd once applied, you’ve likely purchased makeup with the incorrect
undertone for your skin.

There are several ways to determine your skin tone, but here are some quick methods
to keep in mind:
If you tan easily and do not burn, your skin’s natural melanin (the pigment that
gives skin its Colour) level is higher, and you most likely have a yellow-to-olive, warm
undertone. This is true for most African-American and women of Indian descent. Some
African-American women with deep ebony skin tones may actually have a cool (bluish)
undertone, so dark copper shades look off but espresso-type shades match perfectly.
Those who burn and either tan minimally or not at all have significantly less melanin,
which results in a pink, bluish-red, or ruddy cooler undertone. In addition, look for
telltale signs: a ruddy skin tone has obvious signs of redness or is one that tends to flush
easily. Some neutral skin tones fall into this category, particularly if rosacea is a factor,
so experiment with cool to neutral tones to see what works best for you.
Olive skin tones tend to look somewhat ashen or gray, from the combination of the
natural yellow undertone everyone has and the greenish hue that’s unique to olive skin
of any depth. Neutral tones tend to work best, but experiment with warm tones as well,
as you may fall somewhere in between.
Neutral skin tones are those with no obvious overtones of olive, sallow, or pink. People
with this skin tone tend to have the easiest time finding foundation, concealer, and
powders that are just right for them. In fact, those with neutral skin tones may find they
can easily wear more than one shade in any given foundation lineup.
The shortcut test: Some people like to rely on the Colour of their veins: Look at the
veins on the inside of your wrist. If your veins appear blue/purple you are in the cool-
toned (bluish) spectrum. If your veins appear green, you are in the warm-toned (yellow)
spectrum. Those with neutral undertones will have difficulty discerning the blue/green.
The foundation, eye Colour and lip Colour should match the person’s skin tone and
look natural.

- NOTES -

Foundation
Base creation or Foundation application is the primary step of makeup application. Just
as to paint a good portrait you need an even and uniform canvas, foundation is the
canvas of any Makeup application. To get an even and smooth foundation, concealing
becomes an essential tool.
In the Makeup products chapter we have already studied in brief about different types
of foundations. This lesson will help you in understanding Correct Foundation choosing
and application technique
INTRODUCTION TO FOUNDATION
Foundations (or bases) are used to cover flaws and create a clear, healthy-looking
complexion in the right uniform Colour. Choosing the right foundation (Texture &
Colour) is the primary step.
To achieve this there are few important facets that needs to be followed
1. Knowing Client’s skin type, tone and requirement.
2. Skin prep before Foundation application
3. How to choose the right foundation
4. Tools for foundation application
Knowing your Skin Type
NORMAL SKIN OILY SKIN DRY SKIN
The face will have an all The face looks and feels
Complexion is even.
over shine. dry and tight.
The surface of the skin is The face leaves behind

Cream-based, liquid
neither too oily nor too acne and pigmentation
foundations are advisable.
dry. marks.
Oil free, liquid or Applying a compact

Lotion-based foundations
HD foundations are powder on dry skin can
are recommended.
appropriate. make it feel parched.

Skin Prep before Foundation
Cleansing, toning & Moisturizing should be

the first step of your makeup.
Moisturizers - They not only hydrate the

skin but help make-up go on smoothly and
properly adhere to the skin.
Primers - This pre-makeup primer temporarily

fills in and smoothes imperfections in the
skin, allowing foundation to cling to your
complexion, creating a smooth look.
HOW TO CHOOSE THE RIGHT FOUNDATION
»» Understand the skin type is the first step and the most important one.
»» Selecting a shade of foundation to match skin Colour is primary to get an

flawless look
»» Understand the right undertone cannot be overlooked to achieve a healthy look
After skin analysis, How to Find Your Undertone to Choose the Right Foundation.
An undertone is the Colour that’s just beneath the skin, and while your skin tone can
change (over time, with sun exposure, etc.), the undertone does not. There are 3 distinct
tones and Foundations usually are recommended for one of three undertone types:
“cool,” “neutral,” or “warm.” It’s possible, though, to fall somewhere in between (you
could be “neutral-warm,” for instance).
Those with cool undertones will notice their skin has a pink, red, or blue tinge to it. You
have a “cool” undertone if:
»» If the veins on your wrist are blue or

purple
»» If silver jewelry flatters your skin more

than gold
»» When you look at your skin in the sun, it

appears bluish

Those with warm undertones will notice their skin has a yellow, gold, or peach tinge to
it. You have a “warm” undertone if:
»» The veins on your wrist are slightly

green or olive
»» Gold jewelry flatters your skin more

than silver
»» When you look at your skin in the sun,

it appears yellowish
If you have neutral undertones, your skin is neither pink/red/blue nor yellow/gold/
peach, but somewhere in between. You have a “neutral” undertone if:
»» The veins on your wrist are blue-green
»» Both gold and silver jewelry flatter your

skin
»» When you look at your skin in the sun, it

appears greenish
The foundation should match the person’s skin tone and look natural, providing an
even film of Colour and cover minor irregularities of skin
Before applying foundation always

start with clean, moisturized skin.
Any dry, flaky skin patches will be
highlighted.
There are three parts of the body

you have to think about: the face,
the neck, and the décolletage—
“The most natural thing would be to
match your neck.
To test a foundation shade, place

a tiny amount on the cheeks, if

the Colour is correct, it will blend easily with the natural tone of the skin. The Best
Foundation Will Disappear on Your Face
TOOLS FOR FOUNDATION APPLICATION
There are various tools that can be used to apply foundation including your fingers, a
sponge, and several varieties of foundation brushes, each providing a different finish.
Fingers: Using your fingers is great for creating a natural look. The natural body heat in
your fingers helps the foundation to melt into your skin and it’s easy to blend in a sheer
layer of makeup. Using your fingers isn’t recommended for applying full cover makeup
though as streaks and finger marks can occur.
Sponge: Using a sponge to apply foundation is great for

creating a sheer to medium cover look. A triangular sponge
is good for blending in liquid foundation and concealer,
whilst a rounded sponge is best for powder foundations.
Wet a clean sponge with water first: the moisture will help
prevent the sponge from absorbing the makeup and will
also assist in blending. Reusing sponges can be unhygienic,
so sponges should be washed and dried thoroughly after
every use.
Brush: For liquid foundation, a brush with a

synthetic bristle is recommended as the brush
won’t soak up too much of the liquid. Alternatively,
a natural bristle which is more porous works best
for powder foundations such as mineral makeup. A
densely bristled brush is best for foundation as it
is less likely to leave tell-tale streaky brush marks.
As with all tools used to apply makeup to the face,
brushes should be soft and gentle, as anything too stiff will scratch and irritate the skin.
Airbrush: Liquid foundation is applied with an air stream. The airbrush mixes the
foundation with a controllable stream of compressed air. It adheres with the skin as
millions of tiny droplets of foundation. This technique can create an even, sheer, natural
appearance to the skin that, if applied properly for a natural look, can appear natural
and non-heavy like traditional makeup. Airbrush makeup application is also frequently
used in special effects makeup.

FOUNDATION APPLICATION TECHNIQUE
When applying the foundation, bear these steps on mind:
»» Start with the T zone and spread downwards
»» Eliminate excess with a clean sponge
»» Apply a small quantity and build on it little by little
Foundation application using finger tips / Sponge: The direction of foundation

application when applying with the fingertips or sponge – the face should be split into
two areas and the application should always begin from the centre, moving towards the
outside areas.
First you should cover the forehead, then the cheeks and chin. Most important is the
careful application of foundation around the hairline, as this is the area where excess
product is most often collected; it is very difficult to remove later. Inexperienced make-
up artists often make the mistake of “rubbing” the foundation into the hairline, and
then with a clean sponge, carefully smudge the border. Application with a latex sponge
gives an unmistakably smooth look to the skin, therefore it’s important to also apply the
product to the neck and cleavage.
Foundation application with a brush: Make-up artists have only recently begun utilizing
specially made brushes during the application of foundation. This is a technique which
gives a similar effect to the same application with the fingertips. The skin maintains its
texture and, as a result, is very natural and modern looking.
The product should be applied on to a special foundation mixing palette or a spatula,

from there, with the help of a brush, on to the skin. You have a choice of two commonly
used techniques –
Technique I: The method of application is not different to that described earlier for
fluid or compact foundation application. You should remember the rules of correct
application: the direction (towards the outside of the face) and the technique of applying
the product in a gentle arch, so that the product doesn’t accentuate the wrinkles or
enlarged pores, nor clump in the furrows of the skin.
Technique II: The product is applied to the skin using small, circular motions, side by
side. The make-up then looks natural and the foundation only smoothes out the skin
tone, without affecting the skin’s texture. This technique is currently the more popular
and is called “buffing” the skin.

“Buffing”: This new technique of foundation application using a brush has become
more popular amongst make-up artists. Buffing is most often used for the applications
of several foundation colours, which are applied in points, directly to the face and mixed
only once on the skin. It’s the one technique which allows for creation of an optical
contour in a very simple way, yet is incredibly efficient. The foundation is applied to the
skin using circular motions. The effect we create when using this technique can be called
a natural version of ‘glamour’ make-up. The outline of the face is noticeably diffused;
the oval acquires an optical softening, which is particularly effective for photographic
make-up. The technique involves the following steps:
»» Cover the areas, which in your opinion should be highlighted, with points of
lighter foundation. These are most often the central areas of the forehead, the
cheeks and the chin, because in this wau, the structure of the face becomes
more voluminous.
»» Using circular motions with a brush, spread the foundation so that there are no
noticeable Colour divides

- NOTES -

Concealing
Foundation can makes a huge difference in the appearance of your skin but It is
handicapped to give you the result if blemishes like appearance of ruddy spots, scars,
acne, pigmentations, dark circles and dullness is not diminished. While concealer can
brighten and uplift your darker areas, for imperfections like deeper dark circles and
acne spots correctors play a major role.
Concealers are of a denser composition of foundations with more pigment to cover

imperfections. They can be 2 shades lighter and are applied before using the harmony
foundation.
»» E.g. For pale skin , choosing a lighter Colour than your skin tone is sufficient
»» It is important that you have two Concealers in your vanity. Choose one light
textured, light-reflecting formula to cover minor blemishes and the under-eye
area, and one thicker formula with good staying power for general blemishes.
»» A wax textured concealer (a shade lighter than your foundation), and a firm
bristled make-up brush to apply it with, you should be able to cover most
imperfections and fill minor pock-marks.
»» The under-eye concealer should be one or two shades lighter than your
foundation, and should be applied either with your ring finger, or a soft-bristled,
flat make-up brush. Push the product right up to the lower-lash line and into the
corners of the eye for an even finish.
»» A secret for disguising puffy eyes is to apply a light shade of concealer to the
dark shadow beneath the puff, then a slightly darker shade on the puff itself.
This gives the illusion of a flat even surface and, when executed with a skilled
hand, eradicates all signs of a late out.
Correctors neutralize the darkest areas under your eyes allowing the concealer to both
lighten and blend into your skin. Colour correctors, also known as neutralizers, are used
to ‘correct’ hard-to-cover skin disColourations caused by acne, hyper-pigmentation and
other such problems.
They are based on the idea that when you want to neutralize a colour, you place its
opposing colour over it (BASIC COLOUR THEORY - a colour wheel is extremely helpful
here). That is why, for example, colour correctors for red-toned skin are green tinted.
The undertones of skin colours are either predominantly blues (cool) or red (warm) in
appearance; if skin has a higher proportion of yellow pigment, it will appear warm as
well.

»» If your skin is beige toned and you have blue or green undertones, yellow or
peach based correctors will even out the skin tone by neutralizing the blue
»» Red based correctors will neutralize the green.
»» A yellow/ Orange corrector can be used also to hide black, blue or purple
blemishes like dark under-eye circles and bruises.
»» Green correctors can help even out ruddy complexions or to cover up Rosacea
& Acne
»» For brown toned skin to hide blue and grey undertones, choose a peach-orange
based corrector.
»» To neutralize a yellow toned skin tone, use a lavender/purple/orchid shade

corrector.
»» Using a white corrector (in fair complexions) and a soft yellow or peach corrector
(in darker complexions) around the eye area on both corners will make blood
shot eyes appear more fresh and open.
»» Also lining the inner lower eye-line (waterline of the eye) with a white or beige
will have the same effect.
How to apply neutralizers/ correctors
»» Use fingers as they will help warm up the product and pat it on the desired
areas. Concealer brushes can also be used.
»» Don’t dip directly into the product to avoid the risk of contamination. Use a
spatula or a cotton swab to spoon out the desired amount of product.
»» Be conservative in your application. You shouldn’t need a lot of product. Just a

few pin-sized drops or swabs would suffice, especially when dealing with creams
or thicker consistencies.
»» Blend the corrector over the area you want to cover with fingertips, sponge or
a brush. Blend the foundation over it and finish off with a powder. Be careful
not to use too much powder over the affected area as it might end up looking
‘cakey’ or ‘cracked’.

Powder application
Powder sets the concealer and foundation and locks the make-up, keeping the skin
looking fresh like foundation, powder works when it is the right shade. This should be
applied with the help of a powder brush or a powder puff.
»» For all skin types to avoid a shiny appearance
»» Lends a light to medium coverage & has a matte finish look.
»» Evens out the skin tone, hides the imperfections and absorbs the excess oil.
Translucent powder contains a unique modified rice starch. This ensures greater
absorption and enhances the durability of the make-up on the skin. It gives finesse with
a natural look
Anti- shine powder – It is a special colourless, matt powder used to obtain a flawless
look whilst eliminating shine. Uses after you have set your foundation with Kryolan
translucent powder.
Compact powder - A one-step powder and foundation that provides a smooth, flawless,
all-matte, full-coverage finish. It contains Silica helps to maintain a matte finish by
absorbing oils on the skin, as well as Talc to provide a smoother, less reflective, matte
finish. The talc has been milled to a microscopic size to provide a beautiful texture while
allowing the skin to breathe. It can be applied with a brush, sponge, or a powder puff.

TIPS & TRICKS
»» Use a dabbing or stippling technique to cover any blemish or mark

(concealing)
»» Blending is the best way to get a flawless finish to foundation
»» Light colours come forward, and Dark colours go back. You can bring
forward you’re best featured by highlighting! And hide what you don’t like
by Contouring
»» Using powder products will give you a more natural matte look.
»» Using creamy products to highlight and contour will give you a more fresh
and dewy look.
»» Start by Highlighting FIRST. Sometimes when you do this, you won’t need
as much contouring. It will stop it from being heavy.
»» Finishing of your make-up with a simple sparkly highlight onto the high
planes of the face can add extra glamour!

- NOTES -

Highlighting & Contouring
The first rule is to remember that highlighting an area emphasizes a feature. Shadowing
an area minimizes it. Highlighting uses colours that are a shade or more light than a
person’s natural skin tone, while shadowing uses darker shades. The second rule is that
the ideal face should be oval shaped, approximately three-fourths wide as it is long.
Contouring is a makeup technique in which you use Colour darker than your skin tone
to create natural shadows in the face, giving a more defined, sculpted appearance.

Highlighting is a exactly opposite where shade lighter to your skin tone is used to uplift
features.
Proper highlight and contour can completely transform your bone structure. Not
everyone needs to contour- if you feel that you already have prominent features or that
your face is thin, it is best to skip contouring as you may appear too “chiselled”.
While contouring, choose foundation 2 shades darker than your skin tone and 2 shades
lighter for highlighting
Use a light hand while contouring,

especially around the nose area.
Less is more!
Blend out any harsh edges so it

really looks like a natural shadow a
if you have beautiful dark skin, just
stick to highlighting

CONTOURING & HIGHLIGHTING APPLICATION TECHNIQUE
»» Apply skin care and Foundation to face and neck
»» Set Lightly with Powder through the T-zone of the face
»» With your highlighting product apply the light colour onto the high planes of
the face.
»» Tops of the cheekbones
»» Brow bones
»» Down the bridge of the nose
»» The bow of the lip
»» Then with your contour colour, apply the darker colour to the shadows of your
face
»» Under your cheek bones
»» Into the sockets of your eyes and out to your temples
»» Make sure the colours are blended well and into each other for seamless skin!
HIGHLIGHTING & CONTOURING AS PER FACE SHAPE
For Highlighting & Contouring Face shape is always the first consideration. We have
already studied face shapes in the Facial anatomy chapter. So we are aware of the
basic face shapes like Oval, round, Squared, Heart-shaped (wide forehead, narrow jaw),
Diamond-shaped (wide cheekbones) and Oblong (a long and narrow face).
The goal is to make the face as oval and as proportionate as possible. Corrective make-
up takes the face shapes into consideration and uses highlighting and shadowing to
add width where it is needed, or to conceal excess width.
Oval Face: An oval face shape is perfectly

symmetrical. The eyes are separated by
an eye’s length; the forehead is wider
than the lower face. This bone structure
works with just about any makeup look.
An oval face needs is a Bronzer in

a “3”shape from the forehead to
cheekbones and then to the chin in order
to accentuate the ideal features that the
face already has. This face shape can pull
off latest trends and colours very easily.

Next are eyebrows. Arched brows can give a more oval shape. So follow natural shape
of brow bones and tweeze that way.
While doing makeup for eyes or lips, concentrate on any one feature, either eyes or lips
keeping the other simple.
Round face: The round face is circular. It appears to be short and wide rather than long
and narrow. Often called a full face, it is characterized by a rounded hairline and chin
line as well.
The objective is to slenderize the face,

which can be done by applying darker
foundation on the sides of the face, thus
shadowing excess width and creating
the illusion of extra length.
Highlight the forehead, area under the

eyes and the chin to draw attention to
the centre of your face.
A blush can be applied just beneath

the cheekbones in order to give them
definition, or apply it directly to the apples of the cheeks to accentuate their perfect
shape. Do apply the blush in upward strokes to give a slimming effect.
A little care needs to be taken regarding the colours as bright colours only accentuate
the roundness of the face.
Square shaped face: It is usually characterized by a broad, straight forehead and hairline,
with a broad, square jaw line.
Contouring can be used to soften the

angularity and reduce the width, shading
the area directly below the cheekbones
and blending toward the center of the
jaw line aids in reducing width.
Apply blush in a rounded shape on the

apples of the cheeks, make sure that
you sweep the makeup brush upward
towards the temples to create a more
symmetrical shape.

Pear-shaped face: It is characterized by a wide jaw and narrow forehead.
The goal is to create width at the forehead, using highlighting, and to slenderize the jaw
by shadowing.
Contouring can be used to reduce the width at the bottom of the face. Because the
forehead is smaller than the jaw area, it is necessary to add shading directly on the
cheekbone and to deepen the natural fullness on the sides of the face.
Oblong face: The oblong (rectangular) face shape tends to be long, narrow and angular.
This face, which is basically an elongated oval, can be visually shortened by applying
deeper tones under the chin This face needs width the most, so lighter colours are used.
Make your eye lashes look bigger and more

dramatic by using double curling (before
and after use of mascara) or you may even
experiment with darker false lashes.
So contouring across the lower section of

the chin and horizontally at the hairline and
temples helps to shorten the face length.
Try to keep lips minimum and rosy pink,

they look the best and wide, to make face
appear fuller.
Coming to the nose, like for oval face you do a side shadowing. Here do a top shadowing
technique, do not use shadowing on sides of nose, let it remain covered in foundation.
Sweep the top of nose bone with a bronzer.
Blush should be applied to the apples of the cheek to widen your face.
Heart-shaped Face: A wider forehead

with a narrow jaw line and chin line
characterize a heart-shaped face.
Width across the forehead can be

minimized by contouring or shading
while the jaw line can be widened with
highlighting. Contouring is not required
on the lower part of this face shape,
because it naturally diminishes in size.

However, due to the wideness in the forehead, contouring along the temples will reduce
the appearance of excessive width.
A red or berry lip colour and light blush takes the attention away from the strong
cheekbones.
Diamond-shaped face: it is identified

by predominant width through the
cheekbones that is contrasted by a
narrow forehead and chin and jaw area.
Width through the cheekbones can be

minimized with contouring and the jaw
and forehead can be made to look wider
with highlighting.
Contouring is necessary to reduce the

high points of the forehead and the
extended portion of the chin to create
balance.
PRODUCTS USED FOR CONTOURING & HIGHLIGHTING
POWDER BASED CREAM BASED
Contouring - A darker powder/cream/concealer/foundation or bronzer that is 2 shades

darker than your skin tone: I personally feel that bronzers and face powders are great
to work with. You don’t want to use a shimmery, warm, orange toned bronzer because
you’re trying to create a shadow and a natural effect like your face is naturally sculpted
& shimmery. Concealers and foundations have a very creamy consistency, hence require
a bit more blending with a sponge as well as with a stippling brush to make the contour
look most natural.
Highlighter: A powder or cream formula will look great as a highlighter. Highlighters are
every makeup artist’s secret trick. You’ll love using it once you learn about its placement.

BEFORE & AFTER
TIPS & TRICKS
»» Use a dabbing or stippling technique to cover any blemish or mark

(concealing)
»» Blending is the best way to get a flawless finish to foundation
»» Light colours come forward, and Dark colours go back. You can bring
forward you’re best featured by highlighting! And hide what you don’t like
by Contouring
»» Using powder products will give you a more natural matte look.
»» Using creamy products to highlight and contour will give you a more fresh
and dewy look.
»» Start by Highlighting FIRST. Sometimes when you do this, you won’t need as
much contouring. It will stop it from being heavy.
»» Finishing of your make-up with a simple sparkly highlight onto the high
planes of the face can add extra glamour!

- NOTES -

Colour Application
Once the Foundation is done then comes choosing Colour for the Makeup scheme.
Choice of Colour for eyes, lips and cheeks depends on the look designed and the
makeup finalized.
HOW TO PICKUP COLOURS?
There are three main components to consider when picking colours to use. These three
components are skin Colour, eye Colour, and hair Colour.
Choosing Colour for eyes, lips and cheeks as per Skin tone
SKIN COLOURS WARM COOL
Pink or slightly reddish

Light Skin Yellow, Gold, Pale Peach
(rosy) undertones
Yellow, Yellow- Orange,

Medium Skin Olive (yellow-green)
Red
Red, Orange-Brown, Red- Dark Olive, Blue, Blue-

Dark Skin
Brown Black, Ebony
»» For a person with a light skin tone, use light colours for a soft, natural look, but
using medium to dark colours will give a more dramatic look.
»» For a person with a medium skin tone, medium colours will create an understated
look, but by using light or dark tones will give more contrast and appear bolder.
»» For a person with a dark skin tone, dark colours will be most subtle, but medium
to medium-light or bright colours will be vivid.
»» If you want to use a Colour that is lighter than your skin tone, look for translucent,
shimmery colours.
After you have chosen eye make-up use the Colour wheel to determine whether your
choices are warm or cool and then coordinate cheek and lip makeup in the same Colour
family as the eye make-up or go for other makeup schemes as per the look desired and
designed by you as per the client’s requirement.

»» As you begin recommending eye, cheek, and lip colours, neutrals will always be
always be your safest choice.
»» They contain elements of warm and cool and work well on any skin tone, eye
Colour, or hair Colour.
»» They come in variations of brown or gray.
»» For instance, they may have a warm or cool base with brown tones. Or you might
choose a plum-brown, which would be considered a cool neutral. An orange-
brown would be considered a warm neutral. Charcoal gray is a cool neutral, as
is blue-gray.
EYE SHADOW CHOOSING & APPLICATION
Eye makeup is the most important part of Makeup application. It can accentuate makeup
or make it a disaster. Polishing the eyes with an eye shadow is the simplest yet most
tricky when it comes to choosing an eye shadow
Eye shadow colours should be chosen on these 3 criteria:
1. Eye Colour
2. Eye Colour
3. Hair Colour
The popular belief of matching eye Colour with shadow Colour is not the best way to
enhance this area as it only creates a flat region of Colour. By contrasting eye Colour
with complementary colours, you emphasize the Colour most effectively.
The following is a guideline for eye Colour selection.
1. Determine skin level: light, medium, or dark.
2. Determine skin undertone: warm, cool, or neutral.
3. Determine eye Colour: blue, green, brown, and so forth.
4. Determine complementary colours.
5. Determine hair Colour: warm or cool.

6. Choose eye makeup colours based on complementary or contrasting colours.
7. Coordinate cheek and lip colours within the same Colour family: warm, Colour,
or neutral.
8. Apply makeup.
The best thing about choosing colours is the unlimited number of choices you have. Try
one or all methods of choosing Colour.
COMPLEMENTARY COLOUR CHOICES FOR EYE COLOURS ARE SUMMARIZED

BELOW.
Complementary colours for blue eyes.

Orange is the complementary Colour to blue. Because orange contains yellow and red,
shadows with any of these colours in them will make eyes look bluer. Common choices
include gold, warm orange-browns like peach and copper, red-browns like mauves and
plum, and neutrals like taupe or camel.
Complementary colours for green eyes.

Red is the complementary Colour to green. Because red shadows tend to make the
eyes look tired or blood shot , pure red tones are not recommended. Instead, use brown
based red or other Colour options next to red on the Colour wheel. These include red-
orange, red-violet and violet. Popular choices are coppers, rusts, pinks, plums, mauve
and purples.
Complementary colours for brown eyes.

Brown eyes are neutral and can wear any Colour. Recommended choices include
contrasting colours such as greens, blues, greys and silvers.
HAIR COLOUR AND EYE COLOUR
»» Hair Colour needs to be taken into account when determining eye makeup
Colour.
»» For example, if a woman has blue eyes, your instinct might be to select orange-
base eye makeup as the complementary choice. But if she has cool blue-black
hair, the orange will not be a more flattering choice. Look at orange on the
Colour wheel: it is warm. Go around the wheel toward the cool end. Red – violets
are the closest to orange on the Colour wheel while remaining cool.

HAIR COLOUR WARM COOL
Blond hair Yellow, orange White-blond, ash
Red hair Gold, copper, orange, red Red-violet, violet
Brown hair Yellow, gold, orange Ash
Dark brown/black hair Copper, red Violet, blue
EYE SHADOW APPLICATION
For an effective eye makeup application it is primary to understand the parts of eye and
the eye makeup terminology
PARTS OF THE EYE FOR EYE MAKEUP

BROW BONE / HIGHLIGHT - Brow Bone as name suggest
is the area (skin) on top of the bone of the eye, and below
the eyebrows. In other words, It is the space between the
crease and the eyebrow. Mostly light Colours are used to
highlight this eye part, which can either a lighter shade
of the Colour applied on lid/crease, or a shimmery shade
that is close to your skin shade.
CONTOUR / ABOVE CREASE - We usually call it “blend

out” area. Mostly during eye makeup strong Colours
are used on the lid and the crease area. This eye part
(above crease) is usually used to blend out the excess
of Colour applied between the brow bone and the lid.
Which means while moving upwards starting from the
lid towards the brow, tone down the shade from dark to
light. Lighter shade of lid Colour or highlight Colour can
be used to fade the strong Colours.
SOCKET LINE / CREASE - Crease is the fold on the

upper eye lid where eye naturally folds. When you half
close your eye, you can see a defined line above your
eyeball and that is your crease. A shade or two darker
than the lid Colour is usually used at the crease cut to
better define the eye.

LID - INNER LID / MIDDLE LID / OUTER LID - We have
divided the eyelid area in three parts to make you give a
closer look to the most important part for the application
of eye shadow. Usually single Colour is used at this part of
the eye. Starting from the inner lid, Colour shade blends
from light to dark; just make sure the darker shades are
at the outer lid and lighter towards the inner.
INNER LID : – Usually lightest shade of your chosen

Colour is used to highlight the inner lid.
MIDDLE LID :- Usually medium tone of your chosen

Colour is used to highlight the middle lid.
OUTER LID :- Usually darker shade of your chosen Colour

is used to highlight the outer lid.
INNER / OUTER LOWER LASH LINE - Usually single

Colour is used at this part of the eye. Starting from the
inner lash line, Colour shade blends from light to dark;
just make sure the darker shades are at the outer part of
the lash line and lighter towards the inner. Usually, a thin
Colour line that is similar to the Colours used on the lids
is applied to the lower lash line. Or you can simple apply
eyeliner to define your eyes.
OUTER V - The outer “V” is the outer V-shape of the

eye where your lid ends. Outlining the outer edge of the
eyeball defines the outer “V” of an eye. Usually darker
Colours are used to highlight the outer “V” area.

INNER V / TEAR DUCT - Inner “V” or Tear duct is the
area around the natural tear duct of your eye. You can
either apply the inner lid shade or a highlight Colour to
make your eyes look larger and brighter.
UPPER / LOWER WATERLINE - Waterline as name

suggest the watery area inside the lash line also known
as the inner rim. Mostly people apply kajal on the water
line to define the eye.

Eye shadow brush - To apply eye shadow over the lid
or to create a much defined line in the crease of the
eye. The best use for packing Colour onto the eye lid.
Angular brush - Used to sweep shadow over a large

area or the tip to place shadow into the crease. The
angled shadow brush is perfect for adding a dark
shadow into your outer “V.”
Blending brush - These fluffy brushes are used for

blending once you are done with application
Smudge brush - is currently used to create a sultry,

smoky eye look. These brushes have shorter and
denser bristles than a regular fluff brush. A stiffer brush
will “smudge” more than a more flexible brush.

Pencil brush - Perfect for very precise application of
a Colour, these small brushes have a nice rounded tip.
They also work for blending small areas or applying
shadow to your crease.
Crease brush - A little larger than a pencil brush, the

crease brush To make sure you hit the exact right spot
above your crease, tilt your head back a little as you
apply.
Slanted liner brush - This brush has a slanted tip which

makes it a bit easier to use at an angle to your eye. It is
easier to use on your brow than the flat tipped brush,
and I’ve found that it is great to swipe over your pencil
liner to smooth out the application.
Bent brush - To apply liner to your lash line. Also for

underneath your lash line (tight lined) The little bend in
the handle with a bent liner brush really helps a lot with
getting your liner right into the lash line.

Spoolie - A spoolie is also great to run through your
lashes before your mascara dries to help push up your
lashes and remove clumps
Lash & Brow comb - comb through my lashes a little

to separate them and remove any clumps in between
coats of mascara
EYE MAKEUP PRODUCTS
1. Eye primer
2. Eye base
3. Eye shadow
4. Pigments
5. Glitter
6. Eyeliner
7. Eye Kohl
8. Mascara
9. Eyebrow groomer
10. False Lashes

EYE SHADOW MAKE UP SCHEMES

MONOCHROMATIC ANALOGOUS COMPLEMENTARY
Monochromatic Colour schemes - This colour schemes use the same colour with
variation in value and intensity throughout the entire makeup design
Analogous Colour schemes - Uses three Colours that are adjustment to each other on
the Colour wheel. These Colour combinations are often used for Daytime make-up
Complementary Colour schemes - These schemes are created by combining Colours

from opposite sides of the Colour wheel. Often used for Dramatic make up
DIFFERENT EYE MAKEUP
Basic Eye shadow look
The steps for striking contour eyes include the following
»» Start with a primer all over this will preserve your look all day.
»» Apply the shadow on the eyelid. Your eye shadow should not extend past the
end of your eyebrows it will make your eyes look droopy if it does
»» Just go a little above your crease with the dark eye shadow.
»» Then use a natural matte or sheer Colour to highlight under your eyebrows.
»» Apply the darker Colour at the crease then blend like a windshield wiper. Try
not to go too high. And if you want the Colour darker just keep applying at the
crease and blending, do not apply it above the crease.

»» Apply eyeliner, just a straighter line.
»» Apply mascara with a disposable wand.
STRIKING CONTOUR EYES
The steps for striking contour eyes include the following. –
»» Apply the base Colour from the lashes to the brow with a shadow brush or
applicator.
»» Apply medium tone on the lid, blending from lash line to crease with the shadow
brush or applicator.
»» Apply medium to deep Colour in the crease, blending up toward the eyebrow,
but ending below it.
»» Apply highlight shadow under the brow bone with the shadow brush or
applicator.
»» Apply eyeliner on the upper lash line from the outside corner in, tapering as you
reach the inner corner. Blend with the small brush or applicator.
»» Apply shadow in the same Colour as the liner, directly over the liner. This will give
longevity and intensity to the liner. Repeat on the bottom lash line, if desired.
DRAMATIC SMOKY EYES
The steps for dramatic smoky eyes include (The following.
»» Encircle the eye with dark gray, dark brown or black eyeliner.
»» Smudge with a small shadow brush or disposable applicator
»» Using the shadow brush or applicator, apply dark shadow from the upper lash line
to the crease, softening and blending as you approach the crease. The shadow
should be dark from the outer to inner corner. You may choose shimmering or
matte finish eye shadows.
»» Repeat on the lower lash line, carefully blending any hard edges.

»» If desired, add a highlight Colour in a shimmering or mane finish to the upper
brow area with the shadow brush or applicator.
»» Add individual or band lashes if desired
LIPSTICK APPLICATION –
Lip Colour
Lip Colour, lipstick, or gloss is a cosmetic in paste form.

Some lip colours contain sunscreen protect the lips from
the harmful effects of the sun. Others contain moisturizers to
keep lips from becoming dry or chapped.
Choosing Lip Colour - Lipsticks come in a variety of colours.

Consider the client’s preferences, eye Colour, skin tone,
and lip shape before variety of colours, textures and forms,
selecting and applying lip Colour.
»» Lip Colour must not be applied directly from the

container unless it belongs to the client.
»» Use a spatula to remove the lip Colour from the

container, and then take it from the spatula with a
disposable lip brush. Use the tip of the brush to line the lips.
»» Connect the center peaks using rounded strokes, following the natural lip line.
Aim for symmetry and balance.
Whatever the client prefers, brighter or darker colours, shimmer colours or matte
colours, lip application should be done in the following manner
»» Apply liner Colour to the lips. Fill in the lip line with pencil and blot.
»» Add similar Colour in lipstick over the entire mouth with a lip brush or applicator.
»» Apply gloss to the center of the lips with a lip brush or applicator.

BLUSHER APPLICATION
Blusher – Blushers are pressed Colour powder cosmetic used to

bring a healthy and fresh toned look to makeup. Blushers are
cream based and powder based. Nowadays Powder blushers are
popular over cream based blushers. Some good quality blushers
are silicone based an ingredient which gives a satiny and natural
finish to makeup
Choosing Blushers
Blushers come in variety of shades and are chosen as per the
undertone of the client to give a natural finesse to make up
»» Peach / orange based blushers are used for yellow

undertone client like client with medium skin tone
»» Pink blushers are used for client with rosy undertones

generally client having a fair skin tone
»» Red / warmer pinks are used for client with red

undertones like for Medium to dark and dark
complexions.
Blusher application
»» Use a darker blush Colour under the cheekbones to add definition. Apply with
a blush brush or applicator and blend carefully. Add a brighter, lighter cheek
Colour to the apples of the cheeks and blend.
»» Use a cheek Colour with shimmer or glitter over the cheekbones for highlight.
You may use cream or powder colours.

INTRODUCTION TO CORRECTIONS
The primary goal of make-up is to accent a person’s best features while minimizing
a person’s unflattering features or flaws. The most important part is consultation as
assessing client’s features and explaining the corrections needed. The consultation
should be done with tact and compassion highlighting the best features first and then
communicating the corrections needed.
The Basics of corrective makeup: There are a few basic rules to remember when
applying corrective make-up. First identify the problem areas or flaws that need to be
addressed. This will help to determine which colour correction tools to use.
»» Colour correction (Concealing) - Match the skin condition or problem against the
colour corrector choices you have to determine which would be the appropriate
colour corrector to choose.
»» Face shape correction - The first rule is to remember that highlighting an area
emphasizes a feature. Shadowing an area minimizes it. Highlighting uses Colours
that are a shade or more light than a person’s natural skin tone, while shadowing
uses darker shades. The second rule is that the ideal face should be oval shaped,
approximately three-fourths wide as it is long.
»» Feature correction (Eye, Nose and Lips)
Colour Correction (Concealing) – This is already covered in the concealing and

Foundation chapter.
Face Shape correction Face shape is always the first consideration. We have already
studied face shapes in the Facial anatomy chapter. So we are aware of the basic face
shapes like Oval, round, Squared, Heart-shaped (wide forehead, narrow jaw), Diamond-
shaped (wide cheekbones) and Oblong (a long and narrow face).
The goal is to make the face as oval and as proportionate as possible. Corrective make-
up takes the face shapes into consideration and uses highlighting and shadowing to
add width where it is needed, or to conceal excess width. This is already covered in the
Highlighting and Contouring chapter
This chapter throws light on the feature corrections like Eyebrows, Eyes, Nose & lips.
EYEBROWS:
Reshaping and defining eyebrows can be an art unto itself. Well-groomed eyebrows are
pan of a complete and effective makeup application.

The ideal eyebrow shape can be measured by using three lines.
»» The first line is vertical, measuring from the inner corner of the eye upward. This
is where the eyebrow should begin.
»» The second line is drawn at an angle from the outer corner of the nose to the
outer corner of the eye. This is where the eyebrow should end.
»» The third line is vertical, from the outer circle of the iris of the eye upward.
The client should be looking straight ahead as you determine this line. This is
where the highest part of the arch would ideally be. Of course, not everyone’s
eyebrows fit exactly within these measurements, so use them only as guidelines.
When the arch is too high, remove the superfluous hair from the top of the brow and fill
in the lower part with eyebrow pencil or shadow. Build up the shape by layering Colour
lightly until the desired effect is achieved.
Adjustments to eyebrow shape can also be used to enhance other facial features.
»» Low forehead. A low arch gives more height to a very low forehead.
»» Wide-set eyes. The eyes can be made to appear closer together by extending
the eyebrow line closer together past the inside corners of the eyes. However
care must be taken to avoid giving the client a frowning look.
»» Close-set eyes. To make the eyes appear farther apart, widen the distance
between the eyebrows and slightly extend them outward.
»» Round face. Arch the brows high to make the face appear narrower.
»» Long face. Making the eyebrows almost Straight can create the illusion of a
shorter face.
»» Do not extend the eyebrow lines farther than the outside corners of the eyes.
Eyebrow Shapes: Ideal eyebrow shape:

Eye shadow brush - To apply eye shadow over the lid
or to create a much defined line in the crease of the
eye. The best use for packing Colour onto the eye lid.
Straight: Straight brows have no curves and are very
soft in shape. Straight brows tend to make eyes look
smaller.
Curved: An extreme curve to the brow looks unnatural

and can give the eyes a vacant or empty expression.
Arched: Very fine, thin, angled lines above the natural

brow bone give the face a surprised look.
Asian: Brows tend to be straight or slightly curved with

hair growing in a downward direction. When brow hair
grows in a downward direction, eyelashes also tend to
grow downward.

Feature Corrections – Nose
»» For a protruding nose, apply darker foundation on the nose and lighter foundation
on the creeks and on the sides of the nose itself
»» For a wide nose, the darker Colour should be applied on the sides and the lighter
foundation should be applied in a long, thin vertical line on the front of the nose
Feature Corrections – Eyes - For the Eyes correction the distance between the eyes
should equal the width of one eye.
Deep-set eyes: These require very little contouring, as they are more recessed. Light
and bright shadows help bring the recessed area forward. Eyeliners that are rich in
colour also add definition.
Drooping eyes: These can be lifted by applying darker shadows and eyeliners that move
in an upward motion away from the outer edges of the eyes. Eyeliner on the top and
bottom should connect to lift drooping outer edges. Balancing the inner corners of the
eyes with a deep shadow is effective as well.
Close-set eyes: The goal is to create the illusion of space between the eyes. This can
be done by applying shadow on the upper outer edges and using light powder or
foundation on the bridge of the nose. Eyeliners come in handy here. Do not go all
the way across the eyelids with eyeliner. Instead, apply eyeliner from the outer corner
halfway to the center. Extending the outer edges of the eyebrows is also helpful.
Almond eyes: Naturally a classic eye shape, almond-shaped eyes can be enhanced by
defining the natural shape with a smudgy eyeliner application over the entire upper and
lower lids. Applying a neutral shadow on the lids into the natural crease adds structure
that enhances the almond shape.
Wide-set eyes: They can appear to be deeper and closer together by concentrating and
blending shadows and eyeliners near the inner corner of the eyes, then softly blending
toward the bridge of the nose. This gives the illusion of pulling the eyes closer to the
center of the face
Small eyes: They benefit from brighter colours and soft shading of the upper and lower
lids, which helps define the eyes without closing them off. Contouring above the natural
eyelid crease to leave the eyelid free of shading creates an open spacious feeling.
Bulging eyes: They benefit from contouring the protruding lid. Lower lids and the tops
of eyelids can lined with very deep eyeliner of the same colour, and then connected at
the inner corners. Shadow can then be “graded” from dark at the lids to light as your

approach the brow bone. Shadows can be blended in horizontal fashion to achieve a
flattened appearance.
Hooded eyes: They can be enhanced by causing the fleshy areas of the upper lids to
recede by using a medium shading colour in the inner eye area. This colour should be
blended up into the inner portion of the eyebrows. To balance and add contour to the
outer portion of the eyes, a deep contouring shadow can “push back” the outer edges
and the upper portion of the hooded eyebrow skin. Only the outer edges of the upper
and lower lids should be lines.
Three shades of eye shadow should be applied. A dark shade should go where width
needs to be decreased, a lighter shade where width is desired, and a very light shade
used to highlight
LIPS: Lips are usually proportioned so that the curves or peaks of me upper lip fall
directly in line with the nostrils. In some cases, one side of the lips may differ from the
other. Lips can be very full, very thin, or uneven. Various lip Colours can be used to
create the illusion of better proportions.
THIN LOWER LIP
Line the lower lip to make it appear fuller. Fill in with lip Colour to create balance
between the lower and upper lips.

THIN UPPER LIP
Use a lip lining pencil to outline the upper lip, then fill in with lip Colour to balance
with the lower lip.
THIN UPPER AND LOWER LIPS
Use a lip lining pencil to outline the upper and lower lips slightly fuller, but do not try
to draw far over the natural lip line. Fill in with lip Colour.
CUPID BOW OR POINTED UPPER LIP
To soften the peaks of the upper lip, use a medium lip lining pencil to draw a softer
curve, Extend the line to the desired shape for the lower lip. Fill in with a soft lip
Colour.

LARGE FULL LIPS
Draw a thin line just inside the natura,1 lip line with a lining pencil. Use soft, flat
lipstick Colours that will attract less attention than frosty or glossy lip Colours.
UNEVEN LIPS
Outline the upper and lower lips with a soft Colour to create the illiusion of matching
proportions.
STRAIGHT UPPER LIP
Use a lip lining pencil to create a slight dip in the center of the upper lip, directly
beneath the nostrils. Fill in both lips with a flattering Colour.

FINE LINES AROUND THE LIPS
Outline the lips with a non creamy lip lining pencil, then fill in with a product
formulated to keep lip Colour from running into fine lines.
FOR THE LIPS:
Thin Lower Lip: Apply less Colour to the top lip, and more Colour to the lower lip.
Reverse that if you have a thin upper lip.
Narrow Lips: Use the Colour to slightly extend the length.
Uneven Lips: Compensate on either side of the lip shape by creating an asymmetrical
line on the side you choose to match.
Downturned Lips: Toward the outer corners of the lips, create a line that extends just
above the natural fall of the lips.
Small Lips: Enlarge the appearance by outlining the lips just past the outer edge of the
natural lipline.
Full Lips: Reduce the fullness by lining the upper and lower lips inside the natural lipline.
Full Top Lips: Balance the heaviness of the top lip with the lower lip by lining the upper
lip slightly inside the natural shape.
Full Bottom Lips: Balance the lips by extending beyond the natural upper lipline, then
drawing a lip line that is within the natural lower lip line. This creates symmetry & balance.
Use a lip liner to first draw in the desired shape of the lips, and then go back and fill
them in with Colour.
Put lipstick on a small make-up brush and apply it, rather than to use a stick because
the brush gives you greater accuracy. A brush allows you to get into corners better
The thumb rule of any corrective make-up is darker Colours are used make flaws
“recede”, while lighter Colours seem to make features “advance”.

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Foundation Course in Make Up Artistry

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TRAINING MANUAL - MAKEUP BASIC

Skin Care & Personal Grooming 3

Makeup Products & Techniques 23

Brush Types & Uses 45

Facial Anatmony & Shapes 56

Highlighting & Contouring 84

»» Being careful not to cough or sneeze on others

»» Cleaning things that you touch if you are unwell

»» Ensuring the environment around you is clean

CAUSES OF BODY ODOR

»» Wastes excreted through the skin.

»» Unwashed clothes, such as undergarments and socks.

»» Use of polyester and synthetic clothes in tropical countries like India.

»» Diet influences the odor too.

WAYS TO FIGHT BODY ODOR

»» Use deodorants / anti-perspirants:

This document is meant for internal training purpose only 3

SOME TIPS FOR GOOD ORAL HYGIENE:

»» Must brush teeth every morning and night.

»» Cleaning the tongue is as important as

»» Must floss teeth regularly before brushing

4 This document is meant for internal training purpose only

SOME TIPS TO KEEP YOUR HANDS GERM FREE:

»» Hands should be dried with a clean towel after wash.

This document is meant for internal training purpose only 5

During a bath/shower give your feet a good scrub with

After a bath/shower dry the area between the toes.

Keep toenails clipped.

Powder your feet before wearing socks.

Go for a pedicure at least once in three weeks.

Give importance to wearing comfort in the choice of

EATING FOR BEAUTIFUL SKIN

6 This document is meant for internal training purpose only

»» Does not produce enough oil.

»» Dry skin can be oil dry or moisture dry.

»» It is normally thin and looks dull.

»» Moisture dry skin is known as dehydrated skin.

»» A dehydrated skin is prone to fine lines and wrinkles.

»» Dehydration of the skin may be a temporary condition varying from season to

This document is meant for internal training purpose only 7

»» Over production of sebum/oil.

»» Feels thicker than dry or normal skin.

»» Has enlarged pores.

»» Appears shiny compared to dry or normal skin.

»» More prone to pimples and blemishes, due to excessive oil.

»» Less prone to wrinkles and fine lines.

»» Has a good oil / water balance.

»» Can fluctuate and sometimes will be a little dry or a little oily.

»» Can be both oily and dry at the same time.

»» The T- Zone through the middle of the face on the forehead,

»» This area has more oil glands and larger pores.

8 This document is meant for internal training purpose only

»» Water based products work better.

STEPS OF SKIN CARE

CLEANSING – Skin cleansing is essential for a healthy complexion . It removes make-up,

»» Apply approximately one teaspoon of cleansing milk with upward movements

»» Apply 5-10 drops of toner to a wet cotton pad.

»» Rinse the face with water and pat dry.

»» Massage lightly until it has completely penetrated into the skin.

»» Must be worn as a base under makeup.

This document is meant for internal training purpose only 9

»» To be applied over day time protection lotion