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Water Desorption and Mechanical Hair Properties Impact
Water Desorption and Mechanical Hair Properties Impact
www.elsevier.com/locate/jmbbm
PII: S1751-6161(15)00072-7
DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jmbbm.2015.02.029
Reference: JMBBM1406
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Eect of water desorption on the rheology and dynamic
response of human hair to a non-contact impact
J. Jamarta,b,∗, M. Djaghloula , JM. Bergheaua , H. Zahouania
a Université de Lyon, Ecole Centrale de Lyon, ENISE, LTDS, CNRS-UMR5513, 69134 Ecully, France
b Société Calor/Groupe Seb, Département Soins de la Personne, 38780 Pont Eveque, France
Abstract
Human hair is a non-homogeneous complex material made of keratin bers oriented
along the longitudinal axis which oer anisotropic mechanical properties. Nowadays, it
is possible to measure the mechanical properties of hairs with the classical tests, but
most often, these tests are destructive and make hard to measure the inuence of some
external factors or treatments on the behavior of a same hair ber. In the current paper,
vibrations induced by a non-contact impact have been utilized as a representative response
of the mechanical behavior of hair. The characteristics of the vibratory response allow
measuring the variation in the mechanical properties and the instantaneous eect of an
external factor on the properties of a same sample. First, load relaxation tests have been
performed on hair samples after moisturization and for dierent times of an air-drying
process in order to characterize the change in the visco-elastic behavior of hair during
the water desorption. Other hair samples have been tested with our non-contact impact
and vibration technique in order to observe the change in the vibratory response during
the water desorption. The vibratory response has then been correlated to the mechanical
properties of the hair ber.
Keywords: Human hair, Water desorption, Induced vibration, Impact test
9
280
Experimental curve
Maxwell 2-branches model 1
260
Normal Force [mN]
0.9
dry
240
K t=0 / Kt=0
0.8
220
0.7
200 0.6
180 0.5
t0 t1 t2 t3 t4 t5
0 tr 100 200 300 400 500 600
Time [s]
(a)
Figure 4: Example of an experimental load relax-
ation curve (solid line), its optimized generalized
two-branches Maxwell model t (dashed line) and
the intersection point of its two asymptotes used
to determine the relaxation time tr
t0 t1 t2 t3 t4 t5
(b)
1
0.8
tr / trdry
0.6
250
0.4
Normal Force [mN]
200 0.2
dry
t5
t4 0
t3 t0 t1 t2 t3 t4 t5
150 t2
t1 (c)
t0
100 Figure 6: Change over time in the three estimated
0 100 200 300 400 500 600
Time [s] relaxation parameters normalized by there dry
values. (a) Change in the initial stiness Kt=0 ,(b)
Figure 5: Example of the experimental relaxation Change in the innite stiness Kt=∞ , (c) Change
curves obtained on the same sample in the dry in the relaxation time tr
state, just after the wetting phase and for dierent
desorption times
10
0.65
A B
0.6
2
Deflection [mm]
WPD [s]
0.55
0
A 0.5
-2
0.45
-4
0 0.2 0.4 0.6 0.8 1 1.2 1.4
0.4
(1)
dry 0min 20min 40min 60min 80min 100min
Normalized Velocity
e-tt (2)
1
0.5
B 0
450
-0.5
-1 400
0 0.2 0.4 0.6 0.8 1 1.2 1.4
time [s]
fn[Hz]
350
(a)
1
300
(3)
250
Spectral Magnitude
0.8
0.6 200
dry 0min 20min 40min 60min 80min 100min
0.4
0.2
9
0
0 200 400 600 800 1000 8
Frequency [Hz]
7
(b)
6
α
182
fn
180
Lv[dB]
178
2
Deflection [mm]
0 176
-2 wet
dry dry 0min 20min 40min 60min 80min 100min
-4
0 0.2 0.4 0.6 0.8 1 1.2 1.4
0.5
[arb.units]
-0.5
-1
0 0.2 0.4 0.6
time [s]
0.8 1 1.2 1.4
fn
α
Lv
State 0 min 20 min 40 min 60 min 80 min 100 min
W P D(t)/W P Ddry 1.29 1.41 1.26 1.07 1.07 0.99
E(t)/Edry 0.62 0.52 0.65 0.86 0.87 1.01
fn (t)/fndry 0.63 0.75 0.77 0.86 0.88 1.03
RS (%) 0.60 19.89 8.92 0.33 0.50 1.26
Table 1: Change over time in the WPD, E , fn and RS normalized by their dry values
12