Weebee Doll - Dress Me Up Snowman

Weebee Doll – Dress Me Up Snowman
© 2017 Text and images by Laura Tegg, all rights reserved. Finished products created with this FREE pattern may be used for
commercial sale. Design credit should be given to Laura Tegg when finished products are listed for sale.
I, Laura Tegg have made every effort to ensure that the instructions in this FREE pattern are accurate and safe, and therefore
cannot accept liability for any resulting injury, damage or loss to persons or property, however it may arise. Names of
manufacturers and product ranges are provided for the information of readers, with no intention to infringe copyright or trademarks.
Please be aware that I only share and sell my patterns via www.ravelry.com.
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your computer and steal your personal and financial details.
To make your
snowman into a girl!
Simply add the free
skirt pattern
available here!
Find more Weebee clothing

to fit your snowman in my
Ravelry store here!
Before you begin…

When I make my Weebee Snowman using Worsted/4/Aran/10ply weight yarn and a 3mm hook, he
stands at 8.5 inches tall. Made from the toes to the top of the head in one go! Only the arms need
sewing or crocheting on! Other yarn weights and hooks can of course be used to create a
smaller or a larger snowman!
Weebee is named after my youngest niece Phoebe - when she was first born my daughter and
Phoebe’s older sister couldn’t say her name properly yet and she has been nicknamed ‘Weebee’
ever since.
You can find all of my Weebee doll patterns plus lots of clothing patterns for them here.
Make sure to join the Weebee Appreciation Society!
Facebook group dedicated to my Weebee doll patterns with over 8,500
amazingly friendly and helpful members!
Useful info for those who crochet left handed

Please take a look at this site for hints and tips about following crochet patterns if you are left
handed https://www.anniescatalog.com/crochet/content.html?content_id=554&type_id=T
Which yarns did I use for my doll and clothing?

Not a recommendation as such, it’s just because I get asked this a lot. We don’t have much
choice here in the UK yarn wise, Stylecraft Special DK is my absolute favourite brand here though,
lovely to work with and reasonably priced 
Terminology: US Abbreviations Abbreviations Cont/d…
Chain (ch) Single Crochet (sc)
Other items needed:
Double Crochet (dc) Space (sp)
Stitch marker
Half Double Crochet (hdc) Skip (skp)
Tapestry needle
Stuffing Loop (lp) Stitch (st)
Pair of 10 or 12mm safety eyes Magic ring (MR) Slip Stitch (sl st)
Next (nxt) Yarn Over (yo)
Round (rnd)
Clothing
Important Information Regarding Yarn & Hook Choice
I have tried very hard to make the clothing patterns as versatile as possible. In theory as long as
you use the same type of yarn e.g. acrylic, cotton etc., the same brand of yarn, the same weight of
yarn and the same hook size, the clothing should fit your dolls.
However, some people have commented that they have a tendency to stuff their dolls very, very
firmly (one person said ‘like a brick’) and a lot of people use cotton yarn too which doesn’t have
much give. If this is you, you may not be able to manipulate your dolls into the clothing as easily
as I can, as although I stuff my dolls firmly I don’t stuff them so firmly that I cannot pull and/or push
them into the clothing with ease. I also use acrylic yarn for my dolls and their clothing which has a
lot of stretch to it.
Therefore If you tend to stuff your dolls very firmly, so that that the dolls body has very little give or
use cotton yarn, it is highly recommended that you go up at least a hook size when making the
clothing within this pattern.
I have noted in the individual patterns when there is a good point at which to try the pieces on
before you work any further, so that you can rework what you have done so far with a different
sized hook if you need to.
Special Stitches
Invisible single crochet decrease
IMPORTANT as this should be used throughout the pattern!
Sc2tog: Insert hook in front loop only of first st, insert hook in front loop only of second st (3 lps on
hook), yo and draw through 2 lps, yo and complete sc as normal. Link to Youtube video (useful
from 1min 48 in): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8HWGl0Ah-Y0
3dc Bobble: Yo, insert hook into next st and draw up a loop, yo and draw through two loops on
the hook - two loops remain on the hook - *yo, insert hook into same st and draw up another loop,
yo insert hook into next st and pull through first two loops - three loops remain on hook*, repeat
from * to * once more, you should have four loops on hook, yo and pull through all loops on hook,
yo again and pull through tightly to close the stitch.
4dc Bobble: Yo, insert hook into next st and draw up a loop, yo and draw through two loops on
the hook - two loops remain on the hook - *yo, insert hook into same st and draw up another loop,
yo insert hook into next st and pull through first two loops - three loops remain on hook*, repeat
from * to * until you have five loops on hook, yo and pull through all loops on hook, yo again and
pull through tightly to close the stitch.
0101010
Pattern Start
Snowman
Hands and Arms – make 2
Crocheted in continuous spirals without joining the rounds
from hand to shoulder. Use a stitch marker to keep track of
where the beginning of each round starts.
Rnd 1: MR, ch1, (not a st from now on), work 7sc (7sts)
Rnd 2: Work 2sc in each st around (14sts)
Rnds 3 - 4: Sc in each st around (14sts)
Rnd 5: Work a 3dc bobble (see special stitches) in the first st
(makes thumb), sc in each of the remaining 13sts (14sts)
Rnd 6: Sc in each st around (14sts)
Rnd 7: Sc in the first st, sc2tog, sc in each of the remaining
11sts (13sts)
Rnd 9: Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 11sts (12sts)
Rnd 10 – 14: Sc in each st around (12sts)
Stuff hand firmly and the arm lighter and lighter towards the top.
Rnd 15: Sc2tog around (6sts)
Fasten off, leaving a tail long enough to sew the arm closed and into place 2 rounds down from
the start of the head (round 30) on the body. Make sure the thumbs are at the front.
Or you can choose to crochet them on as per this video, made by a member of the Weebee
Appreciation Society Facebook group.
Legs – make 2
Each leg is crocheted in continuous spirals without joining the rounds from the foot up.
You will need a stitch marker to keep track of where the beginning of each round starts; move the
marker up to the first stitch of the next round after finishing the previous one.
Rnd 1: With white yarn MR, ch1 (not at st), work 6sc (6sts)
Rnd 2: Work 2sc in each st around (12sts)
Rnd 3: *Sc in next st, 2sc in next st, repeat from * around (18sts)
Rnd 4: *Sc in each of next 2 sts, 2sc in next st, repeat from * around (24sts)
Rnd 5: Sc into the back loop only of each st around (24sts)
Rnds 6-8: Sc in each st around (24sts)
Invisible single crochet decrease
It is very important that you follow this way of decreasing in this pattern! Insert hook in front
loop only of first st, insert hook in front loop only of second st (3 lps on hook), yo and draw through
2 lps, yo and complete sc as normal. Link to Youtube video (useful from 1min 48 in).
Rnd 9: Sc in each of the next 8sts, sc2tog x 4, sc in each of the remaining 8sts (20sts)
Rnd 10: Sc in each of the next 8sts, sc2tog x 2, sc in each of the remaining 8sts (18sts)
Rnd 11-16: Sc in each st around (18sts)
Fasten off first leg but not on second – you should be at the back of this leg, continue as
follows…
Stuff the feet firmly and the legs a little lighter for now...
If you need help with this next part please see this video on How to Join the Legs on the Weebee
and Friends YouTube channel.
Rnd 17: Sc in each of the first 4sts then take other leg and place it next to the first so that both
feet are facing the same way, then sc into the corresponding st on the opposite leg (this is usually
the last st on the fastened off leg for me), continue to sc in each of the remaining 17sts around this
leg and then sc in each of the remaining 14sts around the first leg (36sts)
There will be a small hole between the legs when joined. When you have finished the doll,
simply take a small piece of yarn and with your darning needle sew the hole closed.
Body
Continue to crochet in continuous spirals without joining the rounds, using a stitch marker to keep
track of where the beginning of each round starts.
Rnd 19: *Sc in each of the next 5sts, 2sc in next st, repeat from * around (42sts)
Rnd 20: *Sc in each of the next 20sts, 2sc in next st, repeat from * once more (44sts)
Stuff the body firmly as you go (make sure to stuff the top of the legs at the same time too).
Rnd 23: *Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 11sts, repeat from * around (48sts)
Rnd 24: *Sc in each of the next 10sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around (44sts)
Rnd 28: *Sc in each of the next 6sts, sc2tog repeat from * around (28sts)
Rnd 31: *Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 4 sts, repeat from * around (20sts)
Head
Continue to crochet in continuous spirals without joining the rounds, using a stitch marker to keep
track of where the beginning of each round starts.
NEW! Optional Neck Definition & Head Support Round
Still using skin tone yarn work a round of LOOSE slip stitches
into the back loops only of Round 32…take note of these
unworked front loops…
Then you will work the next round (Round 33) beneath
those front loops…this creates an extra thick round that
defines the neck and helps to support the head.
Here’s a two tone version –
you’ll see the two loops on
top formed by the slip
stitches and then the
unworked front loop beneath
them, you’re working into the
stitches beneath that
unworked front loop.
Rnds 41-51: Sc in each st around – if using safety eyes, attach them after working round 45
between rounds 42 & 43 seven stitches apart (66sts)
Stuff the whole doll firmly as you work, before the opening gets too small. Push stuffing from the
head down into the neck to ensure your doll is firmly stuffed throughout.
Rnd 60: *Sc in the next st, sc2tog, repeat from * around (12sts)
Rnd 61: Sc2tog around (6sts)
Fasten off, leaving a tail, weave yarn through remaining stitches with a darning needle and pull to
close the hole and hide any loose ends.
0101010
Carrotty Nose
Take a length of orange yarn and weave it back and
forth, several times, over 3 stitches between and just
below the eyes as pictured – if you start and end in the
same place it’s easy to fasten off and hide the loose
ends in the head. I use this technique when I make the
eyelashes on my dolls and you can see it here in this
video on the Weebee and Friends YouTube channel.
0101010
Little Coal Buttons
Take a long length of black yarn and starting 5 rounds
down from the neck, weave it back and forth 3 times,
over two stitches in the centre of the body. Repeat this
again, two rounds beneath the top button you’ve just
worked and again two rounds beneath that. Working 3
buttons in total - if you start and end in the same place
it’s easy to fasten off and hide the loose ends in the
body. I use this technique when I make the eyelashes
on my dolls and you can see it in the video linked to
above.
0101010
Festive Hat
Hat is worked from the bottom up. The band at the
bottom that goes around the head is worked first in
rows and then joined…
Hat Band
Row 1: Ch9, sc in second ch from hook and in each ch
across, turn (8sts)
Row 2: Ch1 (not a st from now on), sc into the back
loops only of each st across, turn (8sts)
Rows 3+: Repeat row 2 until band fits comfortably
when stretched a little around your snowman’s head.
Fasten off, leaving a tail and use this to sew the last
row to first with a whip st.
Body of Hat
Attach yarn to band to work the main part of the hat.
Rnd 1: Ch1 (not a st), work 54sc evenly around, join last st to first with a sl st (54sts)
Rnds 2 & 3: Ch2 (not a st from now on), dc in each st around, joining last st to first with a sl st
(54sts)
Rnd 4: Ch2, dc in each of the first 7sts, dc2tog, *dc in each of the next 7sts, dc2tog, repeat from *
around, joining last st to first with a sl st (48sts)
Rnd 9^^: Dc2tog around, join last st to first with a sl st (12sts)
^^Feel free at this stage to work dc2tog around once more, taking your stitch count down to 6sts
for round 10 before fastening off. I found that the hole was small enough for my gauge at 12sts to
close but you may feel it best to reduce further depending on your own personal tension.
Fasten off, leaving a tail, use the tail to weave in and out of the remaining stitches, pull tight and
close the hole. Hide loose end.
Pompom
I used this video tutorial to make my extra large pompom, remember to leave a tail for sewing the
pompom to the centre of your hat at the top.
If you’d prefer a smaller pompom, here’s a video tutorial showing an effective way to make a
proportionally sized pompom suitable for a Weebee doll hat.
0101010
Skinny Scarf
Row 1: Taking your chosen colour for the ends of the scarf (I used red),
ch5, work a hdc in second ch from hook. Hdc in each of the remaining
3chs, turn (4sts)
Rows 2-4: Ch1 (not a st from now on), hdc in each st across, turn (4sts)
Change to main scarf colour (I used teal)…
Rnds 5-46^^: Ch1, hdc in each st across, turn (4sts)
^^Feel free to work more or less rows at this point for a longer or shorter
scarf.
Change to end scarf colour (I used red)…
Rnds 47-50: Ch1, hdc in each st across, turn (4sts)
Fasten off and hide loose ends.
0101010
Cosy Mitten – make 2
Mittens are worked in joined rounds, at the end of each round, join
the last st to the first with a sl st.
Rnd 1: Using chosen colour (I used red), MR, ch1 (not a st from now
on) and work 7hdc, join (as above) (7sts)
Rnd 2: Ch1 and work 2hdc into each st around, join (14sts)
Rnd 3: Ch1, hdc into each st around, join (14sts)
Rnd 4: Ch1, work a 4dc bobble (see special stitches) into the first st
(makes thumb), hdc in each remaining st around, join (14sts)
Rnd 5: Ch1, hdc into each st around, join (14sts)
Rnds 6 & 7: Ch1, sc in each st around, join (14sts)
0101010
Snow Boots
Boots are crocheted in joined rounds, at the end of each round join the last st to the first with a sl
st.
Rnd 1: MR, ch1 (not a stitch from now on), work 6hdc, join (as above) (6sts)
Rnd 2: Ch1, work 2hdc in each st around, join (12sts)
Rnd 3: Ch1, work 2hdc in each st around, join (24sts)
Rnd 4: Ch1, sc into each st around, join (24sts)
Rnd 5: Ch1, hdc into the back loop only of each st around, join (24sts)
Rnds 6: Ch1, hdc around, join (24sts)
Rnd 7: Ch1, sc in each of the first 8sts, hdc2tog x 4, sc in each of the remaining 8sts, join (20sts)
Rnd 8: Ch1, sc in each of the first 8sts, hdc2tog x 2, sc in each of the remaining 8sts, join (18sts)
Rnds 9 & 10: Ch1, hdc in each st around, join (18sts)
Rnd 9: Ch1, sc into the back loop only of each st around, join (18sts)
0101010
Other Clothing Options
Weebee Snowman isn’t called ‘Dress Me Up Snowman’ just for fun, as he/she is the exact same
shape as my standard sized Weebee doll and animal Weebee doll patterns, he/she can wear all of
the tops, trousers, dresses, sweaters etc from their outfit patterns! They in turn can wear his/her
hat, scarf, mittens and boots!
For example…
Here is Weebee Snowman with Weebee Reindeer and Weebee

Bunny…
In this picture, Snowman has swapped clothing and hats with

Weebee Bunny!
And in these next photo’s Weebee Snowman is playing dress up!

In the first photo she is wearing the Pretty
Shells Dress and the hat from the
Garden Party Outfit. In the second she is
wearing the Hooded Holiday Cape with
the dress and boots from the Christmas
Day Outfit pattern. In the last photo, she
is wearing the dress and hat from the
Garden Party Outfit!
Snowman Weebee loves to dress up!
~•~
I really hope you have enjoyed completing the items within this pattern!
Please share your Weebee projects with us on the Weebee Appreciation Society Facebook Page
(link on page 2) and don’t forget to add your project to Ravelry!

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Weebee Doll - Dress Me Up Snowman

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Weebee Doll – Dress Me Up Snowman

Find more Weebee clothing

Before you begin…

Useful info for those who crochet left handed

Which yarns did I use for my doll and clothing?

Here is Weebee Snowman with Weebee Reindeer and Weebee

In this picture, Snowman has swapped clothing and hats with

And in these next photo’s Weebee Snowman is playing dress up!

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