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India 2016 Web
India 2016 Web
India 2016 Web
November 2016
OK... so if you’ve read my other diaries, this’ll be short and sweet. (says me
sitting here in Vijay and Baezinha’s house).
We arrived into Mumbai last night. It was dark (no kidding Einstein). The
smell was not bad... perhaps in the last few years they’ve sprinkled air
freshener and stopped pooping on the footpaths...whatever, - India keep it
up.
The airport is vastly improved, the new terminal lacks the sandbagged
machine guns of my very first visit. The toilets also do not have the little man
selling toilet paper for $US1. Times have changed. The economist within me
would suggest the trickledown effect is working well here, - as the national
economy gets stronger, the very poorest get richer, - perhaps not evenly with
the richest, but there is some improvement to all. In fact driving through
Mumbai on the way to Pune, I only saw 1 family sleeping on the streets.
Wow... what a change from the first few trips.
Bizenne’s house is in a gated community. I’m sharing a room with Chris Dale.
In fact I’m sharing a bed with Chris Dale. Not my ideal, - but hey... what can
ya do. I was too tired to find an alternative solution.
The flight out of Singapore to Mumbai was far superior. It was on an A380
(much to Adam’s delight). The technology was new, the movie selection
bigger (though I decided to watch a Norwegian movie that involved a lot of
skiing through lush powder snow, - seemed appropriate).
Anita (surprisingly) was struggling with the heat, her legs get puffy or
something, so we made our way back to the airport via the MRT and got
settled back into transit hotel that Singapore Airlines graciously gave us.
For dinner, I ended up at the “Singapore Food Street” within the airport
complex that provided some reasonably genuine street
food.
We travel back via rickshaw to Vijay’s house where we finally get to let off the
5 crackers I purchased earlier in the morning. Christian and Nathan (Vijay’s
kids) let most of them off. They are clearly produced to give maximum
“boom”. I seriously doubt the locals would know the difference between an
ISIS invasion and a couple of these bad boys.
It gets Adam in the mood, so he asks
Vijay to go and get some sky rockets
which we let off in the residential
courtyard. At 10:30pm you’d think
there’d be screams of anger showering
down upon us from the bedrooms
above, - but it all seems somehow
perfectly normal to be letting of 50
missiles of explosive fun into the night
sky whilst the community “sleeps”.
Noise control is not a concept here.
Adam’s meeting up with some people. The girls are shopping and me and
Chris are gonna hit the town, maybe check out a fort, check out the Luxmi
Road area etc... Should be fun.
So we caught a rickshaw to the
fort. I’d been there on my very
first trip to India (15 years
ago), and I remember being
underwhelmed then and for
200 rupees (for international
visitors as compared to the 15
rupees locals were charged) I
was reasonably under whelmed
this time too. Much of the
signage that explained stuff
was missing, so Chris and I had to guess what was what. We figured the
toilets were in one corner and the kitchen in the diagonally opposite corner, -
but it could of been the other way around, - who knows? When we were up
on the walls, Chris noticed a nearby residential complex called “Shitole
Status”. It was hard to contain the laughter. For the rest of the day we saw
other complexes that could have had a similar status.
Once we’d walked around it, we hit the outside heat once more and decided
to shoot back to home-base. The rickshaw ride went well, and because I am
a big-tipper, I paid the driver a 10 rupee bonus (20 cents).
Adam was the only one home, the girls were still shopping. Adam and I went
swimming in the compound’s pool. It was awesome.
Just after 5pm Pastor Prem and Sanjeeta turned up for a catch-up with Adam
and Anita. I heard them discuss family stuff, and it wasn’t good, so I thought
the best approach was to make myself scarce. I suggested to the others that
we go get an ice cream from one of the shops outside the front gate.
We found Baskin Robbins which is an American ice cream chain. They had
about 30 odd different flavours, though I eventually settled on chocolate. It
was great, though kinda weird having American ice cream in the middle of an
Indian city, but so very, very great.
We arrived back just as the counselling session was winding up. Apparently
the issues are quite serious with some of their kid’s marriages.
Dinner time! We made our way by foot to a nearby Chinese restaurant. The
waiter ordered some food, we ate, I probably over ate, and then we left.
Thursday
Vijay made us Dosas for breakfast, a kind of omelette with rice and cheese.
Adam is again spending time with Prem, and so the 5 of us, Karen Armstrong,
Stephanie Phillips, Melissa Kingi, Chris Dale and I decide to go on another
adventure, this time to the Aga Kahn Palace, Pravati Hill and the Snake park
found at the Pune zoo.
Being 5, we split into 2 different rickshaws, - the palace was on the other side
of the city so it seemed to take a good 20-30 minutes. Traffic is the usual
diabolical chaos, but I do find myself thinking, as we zoom in and out of
traffic, how things have changed. There is far less rubbish on the roads these
days, - in fact, I am very impressed to have counted 5 monster one-man
vacuum cleaner type units to this point in the trip, being walked through the
streets picking up litter/rubbish. I have also observed far less back-breaking,
soul-destroying manual labour from the comfort of my rickshaw than I
remember seeing in the past.
Walking on the side of a hot dusty road even for 2 minutes seems like a very
long time, and we were beginning to doubt Adam’s memory, when I spot the
sign down a side alley way.
It was good timing because they were just opening up. In fact, as we walked
in, the staff were just completing their team huddle, which they ended with
some type of team-bonding clapping ritual, - nice.
The manager assigned to our table was talking his “English” variant very
quickly, so were weren’t entirely sure what we were doing, but he said the
appetisers would come and be served at our table, and then we could serve
ourselves at the buffet. We were also told we could order a free “fizz”, so I
ordered a spicy Masala cola (which was a mistake -puke).
Bits of our table were removed to reveal a hole into which a container of
embers was place across the top of which some kebabs were placed. We
were also served some very nice appetisers directly onto our plate, including
chicken drumsticks, BBQ’d corn, and fried chicken. The kebabs included
chicken, shrimps and fish, which to my surprise was my favourite!
Chris, having gone with a non-veg option had a variety of veges to devour his
way through.
The “appetisers” just kept coming, until we said no. By that stage we were
full, and very, very, very content. Out of curiosity more than any desire for
more food, we all had a look around the corner at the buffet, and OMG, the
food was to die for around the corner too! So I helped myself to rice and a
few different curries etc... Then there was the dessert selection as well.
Barbeque Nation has just become my most favourite restaurant chain in the
whole world!
At the end of our feasting, we were given a tablet to complete a survey. We
rated everything “excellent” or gave maximum points for everything except
the drinks... I don’t think I was the only one who had an average experience
with their drink selection.
Karen at this point decided to call it a day and return to homebase, the other
4 of us decided to continue on to Pravati Hill where we would try to walk off
some of our lunch.... so we decided to go to Pravati Hill via homebase given
that according to Melissa’s Google maps (she has a Vodaphone roaming deal)
it was on the way. Again 2 rickshaws, but I assigned Karen (having more
rickshaw experience than the others) to the other rickshaw because I was
less confident of a rickshaw driver getting us to “One Norrie” road (my
phonetic spelling) on the other side of town. These things sometimes require
a cool head and I sensed Chris was not yet fully able to trust the rickshaw
process... you will always get there in the end.
Sure enough, the rickshaw I was in got to home base 10-15 minutes before
the other one, and I was getting quite worried. Apparently it was only
Melissa’s Google maps that saved the day.
There seems to be some kind of fairground thing happening outside the zoo
entrance way, however we navigate ourselves to the ticket queue, pay our
100 rupees as foreigners ($NZ2) and make our way to the “In” gate.
The dude there forces me to go back and buy a 50 rupee ticket for my
camera. I hate that kind of thing, - everyone else has cameras on their
iphones/Samsungs! (mutter, mutter).
So one couldn’t help but notice during the spice buying frenzy that we were
standing by drains that were running red. The other thing of note was a
happy looking black kid goat that was tied up by the door. I presume that just
as in Singapore where you can choose your fish, - in India you can choose
your goat.... nice.
From the bangle department, the fruit and vege department and the
packaged spice stall owner, we eventually emerged onto the streets again.
Here we split into 2, Anita and co looking at scarves and Pamela and I headed
out to look at shoes (for her) and bags (for Kesiah).
[I had a quite specific order from Kesiah for bangles, hena stuff, baggy pants,
and bags like the ones Kiarah and I had purchased in South America. Anita
has bought everything but the bags on previous girl shopping trips, but the
latter is proving difficult to find.]
Once they had looked at EVERY scarf (and there were a LOT), we continued
in the direction of the mall. It was now called “Westside”, but I recall it was
SGS mall, there were still some signs saying SGS mall.
We ordered Chinese from a food cart type stall called “Yo China!”. The
service was poor, and the speed of delivery was very slow. They seemed to
have 5 people behind the counter, one of whom was the cook. I have no
idea what function the other 4 had. In particular, the fat Chinaman, the only
Chinaman, just stood there and looked into the crowd.
We completed our time with a donut from “Donut Magic”, and then grabbed a
rickshaw back to home base.
There was some relax time before our first official meeting. I was to speak at
Prem’s house to an assortment of his people. It wasn’t too far away. Adam
and Anita didn’t come, it was me and
the rest of the team.
It was a reasonably early start this morning (Saturday) with Adam running a
teaching session for the Kondhwa leadership team of about 50. It went really
well with a great feeling between the various sub-churches, the main church
and us kiwis. As always there was exuberant singing.
Chicken Biriyani for lunch.
At the end of the session there were at least a million photos taken of
different combinations of people. Another sign of the Indian economic
prosperity, is that everyone has a smartphone. If everyone took 50 photos (a
conservative estimate, - then there would’ve been 2500 photos taken.
Classic. Different people would disappear with my camera. It will be very
interesting flicking through the results.
It wrapped up about 4pm. It was relax time until dinner. Melissa and I took
Christian and Nathan for an ice cream from Baskin Robbins.
It ended on time and then what followed were a million photos in different
combinations. Person a, b and c with me, then individually with me, then a
and c, then a and d, then d and b... you get the picture.
By the time we got back onto the road, - the attention had turned towards
the car, that was not starting. It was turning over, just not firing into life.
Alankaur is a mechanic, but there were many others offering opinions and
poking things in the engine. During our time on the pavement waiting, a
Hindu funeral march walked past. The Christians went very quiet and
respectful, but I felt every eye turn in my direction. It felt tense, - like on the
Gandhi movie when 1 little spark created huge riots. Perhaps I perceived it
as more fractious than it was (perhaps I didn’t...), I was just happy they
passed.
Adam later told me that in Goa a Hindu funeral procession had passed the
YWAM base, and some of the YWAM students had continued playing a game
of volleyball as the march went passed. They had taken huge offence to that,
and so had come back and wrecked the YWAM base in revenge.
The body was held up high at the front of the march on a stretcher. The
body, and I wasn’t sure whether it was a man or a woman, was being taken,
presumably, to a pyre where they will be returned to mother earth.
After half an hour the car eventually burst into life. Ps Alankaur told me that
the car does not like being in the sun. Although they had parked it in the
shade, the passage of time had meant the car was now in full sun.
Eventually the decision was made that we would not go back to home base,
but would go directly to Kondhwa church which is up a steep hill. We were
there 20 minutes before the service started with Adam and co arriving shortly
after us.
I couldn’t decide whether the church building was the same church building
that I had been to before, or whether it was different. If it was the same,
then they had definitely kitted it out with new curtains. The corrugated iron
roof was held up by bamboo and the dirt floor had (mostly) a form of carpet
on the floor. I’m not sure what it would have been like in the rainy season.
This was a combined service involving all of the satellite churches (Satara,
Gohpuri, Hadupsar, etc... I had had it explained that there were now 7
satellites, but no one seems to know for sure).
The building was packed, and the energy was, as usual, dynamite. The lads
in particular were in good form. One chap was showing me his moves. He
later proudly mentioned to me that he had been in India X-Factor in 20xx. I
vaguely remember him telling me that on a previous visit. I made a big thing
of it (of course) just as I probably did last time. Mummy and sisters were
proud too!
There were a few vehicles in camouflage with the word “marksman” on the
side. I presume at the first sign of trouble, they would jump in the fully
armoured vehicle and the sharpshooter inside would do the business,
minimising the slaughter of innocents.
Today is the day we are off to the children’s orphanage near Indore.
There had been some discussion whether we really needed to leave for the
airport 3 hours before the flight to Indore was due to depart, in the end, it
was probably a good idea. With 8 bags of clothes and toys to deliver and
with typical Indian efficiency, just checking in was a bit of a mission. As it
was, we almost left behind one bag at the X-ray machine.
We were flying Jet Airways, and it was actually a modern, efficient service on
a modern efficient plane. The cabin crew looked more-Chinese than your
average Indian, so were probably from north-west India. The food selection
was a vege bread roll or a chicken bread roll. Adam scammed a second.
The roads were actually in far better condition and we were definitely in a
more relaxed environment. Madhay Pradesh is a much more rural area than
we’d seen before and we drove, on reasonably good roads, through well-
worked land, complete with irrigation channels and farmers tending to those
fields.
We stopped for lunch at a restaurant, where it was vege in the front part (the
nice part) and carnivores down the back, - which was a bit more Spartan.
This area is a fundamental Hindu area, in fact, VJ was telling us that the town
we drove through Ujjain/ and the river we drove across, the Shipra, is the
site of one of the largest Hindu festivals in India (and thereby, one of the
largest festivals in the world). Uncle Google informs me that according to
Hindu mythology, Lord Vishnu dropped 4 drops from the drink of immortality
into 4 different rivers, leading to 4
different festivals throughout India.
This site is apparently the site of the
Maha Kumbh Mela which is held every
12 years, the last time only a few
months ago. Apparently there are
naked gunga-chewing swamis
wandering around. One website I see
claims 75 million attended. At a
different site in 2013, apparently 120
million attended.
The girls gather for a prayer session sitting on the concrete outside their
bedrooms, - again run by other kids for the kids – and not necessarily the
older kids either.
At this point we leave and walk back to our residence, which is next door to
the boy’s bunkroom. This is a very large room where all the boys stay in
similar style bunkrooms. When we poke our heads in the door, they are all
sitting on the floor doing homework with a couple of older boys undertaking
some kind of supervision.
I ask who snores the most, and there is generally agreement that there are 2
boys (obviously friends) that appear to have the nomination of most of the
others.
Given they are supposed to be doing homework, we don’t intrude too long,
before heading upstairs, through our bedroom onto the veranda where our
dinner was served.
It’s a late-ish day after a long day of travel to a new destination, but
surprisingly the bed does not induce
sleep straight away. The pillows are
like concrete, so I use one of my
blankets as a pillow instead.
The other staggering news is that the 500 rupee notes have been
immediately withdrawn from circulation. For us this is CRAZY news. We are
stuck in the middle of rural India with very little else other than 500 rupee
notes, it’s what the ATMs spit out! Personally I have about $NZ120 worth of
500 rupee notes. The team funds are all in 500 rupee notes. They have
become worthless overnight because the government wants to crackdown on
“black money”. Through the day further info seeps through. We will need to
go to the banks to change the notes from the old to the new, but banks are
closed for the next 2 days. I can imagine the chaos when banks reopen as 1
billion people try to change their money over! Only in India. I’m sure the
Illuminati are involved somehow along with Elvis and Bigfoot.
We end up in the principal’s office where I note the globe is upside down in
its holder. The OCD part of me corrects it.
School lessons are cut short and the entire school assemble outside where I
give a short little message with my 2 amazing magic tricks. While illustrating
what Jonah did when God told him to go to Ninevah, I tweaked my knee
again on the shiny concrete stage.
In the late afternoon the girls did handicrafts and the boys played cricket or
football. I played cricket but re-tweaked my knee with the first ball I bowled.
The pitch was of dubious quality and the bowling was of very suspect action.
I was the only one that had a straight arm, the rest were chuckers!
Breakfast. The sweet rice stuff... not really my cup of tea. However we had
2 boiled eggs and some chapatti/roti things to munch away on.
We were packed and gone only 5-10 minutes later than the original target
time, not bad for a group of 7 kiwis, 4 of which are females.
The car ride was reasonably uneventful, to the point where I tried to catch-up
on some sleep. Stephanie, sitting next to me, took a faux “selfie” as I dosed
from a very uncomplimentary angle. Well done to her though because she
also did the thumbs up sign, a pose I have personally crafted to awesome
artistic effect. Oh well...
The return to Indore was much faster than the trip from Indore 2 days
earlier. This time we didn’t stop at the pharmacy, at the “holy” river, for 2
trains, for lunch or for petrol... just straight through.
We arrived and cleared check in with over an hour to spare. We all thought it
a good idea to crash at the restaurant within the airport. Nice food. As per
usual I ate too much. Others ate the club sandwich (boring!). Adam and I
tucked into Chicken Masala, Chicken Kadai, Chicken lollipops, rotis etc... etc...
etc... This was our first attempt at cashing in the 500 rupee notes that had
just been banned, and I think Anita was relieved when they took them, no
problem at all, though we suspect that is because this is a government/airport
operation and there has been an instruction that government institutions will
accept the old currency. In fact according to the newspaper, Indians had
flooded the Mumbai train station and have been buying very cheap train
tickets and paying with a 500 rupee note to get the change, not caring about
the train ticket.
Our flight is uneventful, although we have the Madya Pradesh cricket team on
board with us. On ya fellas. I pass on the chicken roll... after the lunch I’ve
just eaten, I feel like Mr Creosote from Monty Python’s “The meaning of life”.
We book 2 pre-paid taxis at the airport taxi stand, again paying with the old
500 rupee notes and we arrive safe and sound back at our home base.
Pamela is keen to try the local bank to get some of the old currency changed
to the new currency. I agree to go, and before you know it, it’s a team trip to
the bank.
People are queuing at the door, and everyone is given a form to complete.
You can change a maximum of 4,000 rupees. I have 5,500. The Indian lady,
who seems to wield great power around the branch, allows us inside to sit on
the chairs. Apparently there is another queue downstairs in the dungeon
where the real cash changing process is taking place.
I make polite conversation with the man in front of me, he has just returned
from London where his son works in IT. He did a 10km run as part of the
London marathon... good on ya bro. But oh the hell he unleashed when he
finally got to the front of the queue. Apparently he was trying to change 2
lots of 4,000 rupees, - 1 for himself and one for his absent wife, who had not
countersigned the photocopied ID card. Talk about a scene. As next in line I
was patiently waiting and semi-enjoying the exchange. I was eventually
given 20 x 100 rupee notes and a crisp new 2,000 rupee note. The new note
looks like the red toner on the photocopy machine is running low, like a pastel
red/pink. Compared to the new NZ notes, - they are fairly average. Still it’s
nice to have the 100’s stashed away in my pocket.
(I actually feel like I have too many rupees, I only have 4 days left and could
survive reasonably cheaply, - so later that night I give my 2,000 note to
Melissa. Apparently she tried and failed to get more cash out of an ATM.
When we get home we will have to work out the difference between 100
Singaporean dollars that Melissa owes me, and 3,000 rupees, that I owe
Melissa. It probably means that she owes me $NZ40 I’m guessing...)
I find a shop nearby that sells camera SD cards, but I decide to come back
tomorrow and try and pay with the remaining 500 rupee notes that I have.
Chris and I are picked up by Alankaur and get chauffeured to the church.
At the end I mention to Pastor AJ that is has been a long day and that we
should just go home (per Anita instructions). But AJ says that the food is
“already on the way” and that we only need “5 minutes”. We agree to stay
(suckers... I can here Anita tell me off in my head).
So we eat our chicken biriyani, I review a lot of photos of pools (AJ runs a
high-end swimming pool manufacturing/installation company) and we are
finally dropped off home about an hour and a half later.
We walk around the corner, and walk and walk and walk. Pamela had
mentioned that it was “just around the corner” and indeed, when we stop a
gentlemen and asked him he confirmed that we must have walked past it, so
back we go paying extra special attention to fining this place.
We are successful in that we find it. But it has a “closed” sign on the door
accompanied with a “we do not accept 500 or 1,000 rupee notes” sign. Dang!
We dither a little and Melissa checks her GPS. It brings up George restaurant,
which is something I recall from earlier visits and it’s very close by. We
navigate a couple of road crossing, which is not straightforward because the
traffic is a bit manic, - Friday night on MG road.
The menu is almost entirely Indian, but rather than keep looking or going to
somewhere like “Pizza Hut” or worse, McDs, we settled for Georges.
We ordered, we ate, Melissa tried to pay by credit card but failed, we hauled
out our precious 100 rupee notes and left.
I find talking to Suman difficult at times, I know her English is not great, but
it’s not the language that is the main problem. It’s our two completely
different backgrounds. She’s an orphan, widower, mother of a stillborn child
who works tirelessly and passionately for her people. I am none of those
things. It’s confronting and challenging and even if language was no barrier
then a divide would still exist. But still we do connect, and I do everything I
can to encourage her and build her up.
We had a few hours to kill before going to Ravi’s house for dinner.
Apparently he has said to Adam, that we have never been to his house before
and he is most insistent that it happen this time!
Ravi’s place was really nice, though I felt sorry for his Alsatian dog, looked up
in a cage on his balcony. That the type of dog that needs space.... anyway...
what can you say. Ravi’s wife had cooked up some KFC-type chicken as
appetisers followed by Chicken Biriyani. I left full (again).
Sunday is a reasonably slow starting day... Chris, Karen, Melissa and I are
driven by Ps Prem to Gohndwa, while Adam, Anita and Steff are taken to
Hadapsur.
I preach, but I’m really not sure I break it open. I seem to get blank
expressions back, even when I do my magic book trick which usually goes
down a real treat! I preach for 45 minutes, which is a struggle... but I finish,
and I’m done! Just one more church service and that’s for Adam tonight, - so
I’m HAPPY! We end up praying for some people at the end, - one 17 year old
girl sticks out in the memory, as her husband had just left her and gone back
to his mum! (She looked 15).
Prem shouted us McDs for lunch (right opposite the
road from VJ’s house so we were back about 2pm-
3pm for a wee nap.
[Note I’ve borrowed 200 Rupees from Karen and another 200 Rupees from
Stef. I’m just not sure how much money I will need tomorrow... I will have to
get myself to the Mumbai international airport.]
So, - I caught a taxi from Starbucks to churchgate. Taxi dude was imploring
me to use him to take me all the way to the airport, but I played dumb, using
the language thing as an excuse to just get me to Churchgate. By the way,
the insides of his taxi was a crazy bomb of colour, like some kind of explosion
in a 1970’s plastic table cloth factory, pictures of bunches of fruit adorned the
roof, - very classy. Anyway, - we got to the station and surprise, surprise, he
had no change for my 100 rupee note, - not a great start to my money saving
trip.
Inside the train station, I found queues for Africa lined up in front of the
ticket buying windows... my heart suddenly plummeted, and I’m thinking,
doing it this way maybe a VERY bad idea... it could take 2 hours just to get to
buy a ticket... when I notice an automated ticket machine that NO-ONE was
using. Perhaps it doesn’t give change, and therefore people can’t use it to
cash in their 500 rupee notes?
The train itself was comfy (much more so than the Deccan Queen), with the
fans working (not like the Deccan Queen), where my fellow travellers enjoyed
the wind in their faces like me (not like the Deccan Queen). It was so
relaxing, - that I feel asleep, and only woke up when some other passengers
that were alighting at the end of the line whistled at me.
The Andheri station was very busy, but I got myself to the East side of the
tracks (as Adam told me) and I found a rickshaw. Rip off number 2. It cost
180 rupees. The thing was I knew I should’ve insisted on the meter, and I
knew I should have walked away, but dang it, - I just wanted to get to the
airport now, - and I was prepared to pay the (almost) $NZ4 to get there.
So in the game of economy, I think I won, - but I took some big hits in the
Mumbai taxi and the Andheri rickshaw which
almost evened things up.
The immigration was the easiest immigration ever... there was almost no-one
manning their customs /’do you have anything to declare’ bit. And the on-line
application for a visa thingy was not even looked at.
....and then, courtesy of the tourism board (thank you very much), you get
given a Sri Lankan sim card!
I changed $US 100 into the local rupee (different from Indian rupee) and
then followed trip advisor advice to catch a bus into the Colombo city. I’m
still trying to figure out the currency exchange rate, - but I think it’s about
$NZ 2. It is a long way from the airport and it gives me an opportunity to
catch up on Messenging Helen, Facebook and NZ Herald.
When we get to the end of the bus line (Colombo), I know I have to catch
another bus or tuk tuk (as they are called here) to Mt Lavinia. Everyone else
alights from the bus, but the bus driver and his attendant try to talk me into
paying them to drop me off at the door of the hotel I have booked. They
want 2,000 rupees but I smell a rat. They tell me a tuktuk will cost 1,500
rupees... but I decline their offer. The first tuktuk doesn’t understand me, -
but politely refers me to a buddy behind him. The second one does
understand a bit of English and knows where the hotel is, - so we are off!
It turns out being quite some distance, but still only costs 600 rupees.
Hmmm.... lesson number 1: impressions are that Sri Lankans seem to be
much friendlier/happier people than their Indian counterparts, but some are
still out to be-twiddle you.
The hotel is so-so, but at $NZ42 for 2 nights, - I don’t care. I get a selection
of 2 rooms, and I choose the one furthest from the reception area. Curiously
the reception guy, grabs a screwdriver and de-wires the air conditioning unit,
because I didn’t pay for the A/C. I don’t care, - it’s got a fan... and this will
be the first night I sleep without Chris (the snoring machine) for quite some
time. I think I will sleep like a log!
I’m coughing a lot. I still think I am trying to get India out of my lungs.
I order chicken stirfry and a mountain dew which are delivered to my room.
If my calculations are correct, - it costs me $NZ4.
I observe the fisherman load the net into the boat, paddle furiously out into
the surf, lower the net and haul in the net repeated 3 times through the 5
hours I was sitting there.
The beach is beautiful golden sand, - the type I REALLY like. The sun is hot
(The iPhone weatherman tells me it’s 31 degrees and that it will stay pretty
constant even through the night, dropping only a few degrees at the lowest
point)
I write the lyrics of a song that has been bubbling in my head since I’ve been
on the sub-continent.
I just relax.
I watch the feed of stuff the Goans are doing, and I’m not jealous at all... I
think I needed some me time. It’s been a hard year with work, study, house,
ministry, family etc... I really can’t remember when I last did nothing for 5
hours.
I tried to protect my feet from the sun moving the seat every few hours, but
somehow I got sunburnt legs from the knees to my feet... douh!
I also need to visit a pharmacy to get something for my throat so I leave the
beach about 5pm and head the 200 metres up to the main road. The traffic,
the horns, the chaos, is reminiscent of India, but just toned down a few
notches. I like it.
The atmosphere is thick with humidity and it has the feel of immense tropical
downpour at any time, so I duck into a bar and order myself an Apple Cider.
It’s almost $NZ10... ouch. I can’t not buy it now because the bartender has
already taken the top off it.
I make it last.
I finish my cider and walk the beach in the semi-dark. There seems to be a
lot of restaurants, but not a lot of punters. I wonder if they will come out
later. I decide to dine with the cafe thing that served me well through the
day. I decide, given the setting and having watched fishermen working hard
all day, that I would have the chef’s speciality fish of the day. It’s really
good, prawns, fish and some other stuff that I shall call “seafood” – truth is, I
have no idea. It is presented well, and very tasty. Top marks my dear
fellow. It costs me just a smidgeon over $NZ10, but it was food fit for a king.
I am enjoying the amazing lighting show in the skies, sheet and flash
lightening with the odd roll of thunder. Particularly inland, behind the
restaurant the fork lightening is spectacular. There was one time where it
looked like Zeus was firing 3-4 bolts from one side against Thor who was
replying in kind from the other... very impressive. My photography skills let
me down, I did not get any cool photos.
I decide on an early night so I’m back to the hotel by 7:30 ish and asleep
shortly thereafter.
I have thoroughly enjoyed my day. Now drugs, please do your thing and rid
me of this cough and river of snot.
Better night although I awoke a few times with a lack of nostril usage.
I decide to head down to the beach for an early morning dip before doing
some sightseeing this arvo. Check out is at midday, and my flight is at 5am
tomorrow morning.
The swim was great,- the Indian ocean provided plenty of vigorous waves to
pummel my sunburnt legs. I thought I’d be cool and wear my hat and
sunglasses. I kept hold of my hat, but somewhere in the midst of a wave I
lost my glasses. These are prescription glasses, and I remember my parting
words to the Specsavers staff who were trying to lecture me on how to look
after them just a week before I left.... “It’s not looking after them that’s the
problem, - is not losing them that is the problem”. Douh.
I’m left scratching my head what to do. Will they wash up? Will they float to
the surface?
One young lad jumps in and ferrets around for 20 minutes... I give him 150
rupees ($NZ1.50)... I think he’s pleased.
Then the big boys arrive... the local scuba gear business. One proudly says
he found an American lady’s glasses a few days ago... so I enter into a
contractual arrangement... $US50 if they find the glasses, and $US20 if they
look but can’t find. I figure to me they are worth $NZ150, so I think for me
it’s a good deal. I leave them to it.
I grab breakfast at the Beverly Hills hotel, pack my stuff, and check out.
I head back to the beach to see if they have had any success.
The guy claims to have just left the water, having spent the last 2 hours
looking. I don’t know if that’s true or not or whether all along they were
angling for the $US20 for doing squat diddly and if the miracle happened and
they found the glasses, then they would accept the $US50 miracle.
Anyway I sit down at a nearby cafe and order a couple of drinks and he goes
back out and does some more snorkelling. I’m not sure if it’s for show, - or
what, but he strikes out. He promises to keep looking, his boss reckons that
at low tide the water will be less dirty (from the churned up sand) and the
chances of finding them would be greater. They take my details and advise
that they will send it if they find it. [the sceptic within says they’ll buy a $5
pair and send them to me claiming they found them....] best to cut my
losses.
I catch a tuktuk into Colombo, the National Museum to be precise. The first
tuktuk claimed his meter did not work but his fixed price offer of 600 rupees
was a good one. I decline, as the meter not working story just isn’t
believable. Anyway his “boss” shows me to another tuktuk where the meter
is working and off we go. Ironically the fair is about 530 rupees, and being a
generous man I pay him 550, so 600 wasn’t far off.
The museum is quite an amazing
building, large and freshly painted
white, but the exhibitions are really
quite dull. I walk around for 20-30
minutes before I’m done. I decide
to walk to the park which is very
close to the museum... but the heat
is a killer. Just before I fry my
brain, I find a drink seller that has
ice cold water. I sit in a pergola
thing in the garden for an hour.
Problem is, - there ain’t a lot of appealing options in the area. I eventually
settle on the A One cafe, which confuses me a little. I don’t understand
anything on the menu, and I sit with a couple of other blokes. There is a
word on the menu that could possibly be similar to “samosa” so I give that a
go. I get 3 (kind of) samosas. Kinda filling, kinda nice, - and they accept the
2,000 note... so maybe I don’t have to be so sceptical all the time?
I catch another tuktuk back to Dutch Hospital, this one wants 200, but I insist
on the metre, he says “ok” and we're off. In the end it only takes 70 rupees,
but I give him 100 (approx. $NZ1).
I find a place to sit, and while I’m there it starts to rain... and then the
thunder and lightning starts... it is LOUD, - I’ve never heard lightening cracks
so loud! It’s exceptionally impressive. It scares the perjeezers out of the
birds in the trees. I ask a local waiter if this is normal for Sri Lanka, - he
indicates nothing unusual here. Dang impressive I say.
I had signed up online to do a bus tour of the city at 4pm on an open top
double-decker bus. With the heavens opening at 3:30pm, I’m thinking the
likelihood of it actually happening must be minimal, but I still decide to go
and have a look. While I stand under the eaves of a building watching the
rain and the thunder and looking forlornly for the bus that I know won’t
come, I’m approached by a persistent tuktuk drier who says he can take me
around the sites for $US10 (opposed to
the $US30 that the bus would charge).
Soooo... this is not the end of the adventure, - but it is the end of my active
participation in this adventure.
...well that last sentence was a bit melodramatic. I decided to catch a tuktuk
from the Dutch Hospital area and was sure enough approached for a fixed
price 2,000, later to be lowered to 1,700, but I, ever cautious of these types
of deals insisted on a meter price. I have heard claims that the meter was
broken before, so I start to walk off, however miraculously, at the last minute
a tuktuk with a working meter was discovered. I felt smug... beating them
again, I am awash with self-satisfaction.
However it is with increasing concern that the meter ticks up to 1,700 and
then over 1,700 to a point where it is 2,260! Now it is possible that the driver
took me on a zig zag to boost the meter price, - my internal compass is a bit
squeew-if, - but I don’t think he did. I recognised the road we travelled from
when I came in 2 nights ago, and we seemed to be on a straight line.
[fyi, - the bus was only 200 rupees from the airport to Colombo town, so the
tuktuk was definitely travelling in style!]
I walk the eating options and there is a restaurant sign that leads nowhere. I
backtrack. There is another restaurant sign that leads in the opposite
direction. This time I note a sign saying that the restaurant is on level 1. I
locate the said restaurant, it’s some kind of heated servery with a variety of
tasty morsels people choose from. I ask the guy to put some stuff on the
plate and confidently stated that “I would eat it”.
For a second time in a night my bravado and self-confidence took a knock.
The spicy chicken that was hot... red oily sauce is usually hot, - but by sweet
mother of god, what the heck was in the fish curry thing? I started coughing,
- my usual coughing (a la the sore throat I’ve had for the last 3 weeks)
accompanied by the searing burning of something as it went down my
oesophagus. I felt like I was dying by coughing, but my fellow dinners
appeared to be completely oblivious to my situation. I’m not sure if it was
apathy, or whether it was a common occurrence for white men to die in the
middle of their curry, or did they not want to embarrass me by making eye
contact or enquiring as to my general “aliveness”, whatever it was, - I didn’t
even get a glance in my general direction.
I did get breathing back in one nostril, so the curry did wonders in that
regard.
So, - Sri Lanka is the only country I will be adding to my list of new countries
visited in 2016, so it is only fair that I spend my last few hours making
sweeping generalisations of the country based on my 2 days and 3 nights in
town.
Note 1, - Sri Lanka is India’s little brother, - what India struggles with, Sri
Lanka struggles with. Air pollution and dirty streets exist, although perhaps a
couple of notches better than India.
Note 2, - I think Sri Lankans smile a bit more than your average Indian. And
they are ready to engage with you in a less weird way. I think the average
grasp of English is a couple of notches better than India’s as well.
Note 3, - I think Sri Lanka’s future is a little less certain than India’s. India is
one of the world’s rising economic tigers, whereas it seems to me, Sri Lanka
is heavily reliant on tourism and there hasn’t been a lot of that in recent
times. India therefore I think has the greater economic potential.
Note 4, - Sri Lanka has a way better flag. A lion holding a sword, is pretty
cool.
Note 5, - I reckon Mt Lavinia (and I understand there are some really good
beaches down south) is on par with Goan beaches. I think nature has more
of a chance here in Sri Lanka. Nature in India is doomed to the pestilence of
mankind.
I had been worried about my re-entry back into India. I only had a “single
entry visa” which technically I had used once already, so I wasn’t sure what
was going to happen when I tried to get back into India. My fears increased
when I was queried at the Jet Airways check-in at Colombo and then again by
a different hostess upon entering the gate. Their disapproving comments and
body language implied I may not be granted access, which got my brain
ticking about perhaps I will have to live out my days in Sri Lanka.
I also felt like a leper. I was wearing shorts and a t-shirt, and looked like a
slob. My legs were bright red. People would stare at my legs... I mean
c’mon people... give my legs some privacy.... they are red, get over it...
I think I’m the last person from our flight in the queue. I mask my
nervousness with politeness... it’s never let me down before... and I’m
through. Not even a consideration... or perhaps he didn’t even notice? I
dunno... I’m through Indian customs and now all I need to do is link up with
Adam and co.
I find where their domestic flight comes out and wait... and wait. The board
says they’ve landed, but they don’t emerge. I find the left luggage and it is
bare, so I know I didn’t miss them... I send Anita a txt, but I don’t know
whether it will get through or not, - my phone is a bit of a mystery to me.
I get to the point where I convince myself I’ve missed them and start making
alternate plans in my head. There is a transit
hotel near the left luggage room, and just as I
decide to head off there, my phone rings and
it’s Anita... they are just coming out now. It
seemed to take them over an hour from when
they “landed” to when they emerged.
Singapore…..
Home….
Singapore
Signs