Clean the Grills

The eyes of the range tend to get dirty fairly quickly. To clean them, lift out the grills
and drip pans and wash them in soapy water.

Soak the Burners

The burners are removable for cleaning, too. You may need to loosen a nut before
pulling the burner out of the range. Soak the burner in a mild solution of liquid
detergent and water, then clean it with a toothbrush. While you have the burner out,
check the internal drip pan, and clean it if necessary.

stove

1. Wipe your stove top after each use.

2. Wait until the burners and surrounding areas have completely cooled before
cleaning them.
3. Take the burners apart to soak and then clean them thoroughly in warm, soapy
water.
4. Soak and then scrub the grates in warm, soapy water. For stubborn spills and
stains you can use grate cleaner.
5. Stubborn cooked-on spills can be cleaned with a mild abrasive paste made from
baking soda and water.
6. Rinse all parts in clean water.
7. Dry all parts thoroughly before replacing them - placing them in a warm (but not
hot!) oven for around 15 minutes is a good trick.
8. Dislodge any cooked food caked under or on burners and on the surface of the
cook top.
9. Clean clogged burner holes with stiff wire, pipe cleaner or a pin.
10. Replace the burners correctly. There is a small hole in each of the burner base
pieces where the flame shoots out and connects with the burner - if the hole isn’t
matched with the corresponding opening in the burner the flame won’t ignite.

1. Diagnose Range Hood Problems

There are some important signs that will indicate when your vent hood is struggling to
do what it is meant to do. It is typical for a vent hood to wear down over time as a
result of grease building up or the machinery wearing down from constant use. Make
note of the following situations that will tell you it’s time to make repairs or conduct
maintenance.

 Smoke is not clearing from your kitchen even when the vent hood is
on the highest setting: If this happens, it could be that the duct on your
vent hood is obstructed or clogged with grease. It could also be that the fan is
 not functioning properly due to a greasy or worn-out motor. Finally, the issue
could be traceable to the air filter needing to be cleaned or replaced.
 The motor is humming or is excessively loud: If your motor is making
weird sounds, it probably needs to be cleaned. It may be rubbing against an
object obstructing its proper function. This symptom could also be a sign that
your motor needs to be replaced.
 The lights or buttons are not working: These problems could be electrical
and can usually be traced to the control board of your vent panel. This kind of
problem often requires an expert to come fix it.

2. Cleaning the Air Filter

The air filter is the part of your vent hood that removes particulates and smoke from
the air before pushing it outside of your house or recirculating it. There are two kinds
of filters: a metal filter and a charcoal filter. Both of these kinds of filters can be easily
removed for cleaning or replacement.

 If you have a metal filter, simply remove it, and then put it in a small bin or
appropriate container filled with enough degreasing solution to cover the filter
completely. Once all the grease has been dissolved, give it a thorough wash in
warm, soapy water. For good measure, put it in the top rack of a dishwasher.
Before reattaching it, make sure it is completely dry.
 If you have a charcoal filter, the removal process will be much the same. The
only difference is that you can’t clean one of these filters. It is a good idea to
replace a charcoal filter annually, or whenever it begins to lose effectiveness.

3. Cleaning the Range Hood Itself

This process is rather simple. Make sure you have the unit turned off and your
stovetop is not hot or turned on. A household cleaning spray or degreaser will be
perfect for regular clean-ups. Just remember to use a non-abrasive variety. Do not
spray the cleaner on to the light bulb or any other electrical components.

Click Here to Shop Range Hood Filters and Accessories

4. Cleaning the Vent

You should check the vent leading from your hood to outside on a regular basis.
Grease can sometimes build up in this vent, impairing functionality and potentially
causing a fire hazard. If the grease is building up in this part of your vent, it is
important to contact a cleaning professional as soon as possible to clean it properly.

5. Cleaning the Fan or Replacing the Motor

The fan motor is generally durable enough that it will not need maintenance, but you
should still examine every part of your vent hood when you do check-ups. Sometimes
the motor or even the bearings themselves can be exposed to excessive humidity and
grease, and will not function properly. A definite sign of this is if the motor is acting up
as described in the first tip above. More often than not, it is the blower wheel that has
collected dirt and grease. You can remove this part and clean it with a degreaser. If
this does not solve your problem, you will most likely need to get the motor replaced.

6. Troubleshooting

A good way to test the vent on your device is to cut a small square of newspaper and
hold it over the vent. If the newspaper is sucked up and held in place, your vent hood
should be fine.
Every specific model of range hood is unique. If you are having difficulty diagnosing
issues on your own, try looking up the model number of your unit. This way you’ll find
information about common problems that will occur with your particular model.

7. Preventative Measures

The last tip on this list of range hood maintenance information focuses on stopping
issues before they happen. To prolong the health of your range hood, you should:

 Clean your fan blades on occasion to prevent buildup of dirt and grease. This
will help avoid excess stress on your motor and keep it from overheating.
 Wash the exposed metal often. Warm suds will usually suffice. If surfaces get
really greasy, a solution of ammonia and water will do the trick. Just make sure
to rinse thoroughly after using this method.
 Regularly check the vent to keep air flow unrestricted. If you allow grease to
build up, it can pose a fire hazard.
 Clean the filter frequently as it is the part that will collect grease the fastest.

By following this advice, you will have a vent hood that lasts a long time and effectively
does the job of keeping your kitchen smoke free and clean.

PULLEY/TROLLEY CARE /
MAINTENANCE
It is hard to predict the effective usable life of a pulley/trolley. Many factors
contribute to how long the pulley/trolley will last. Aspects such as how much it is
used, where it is used, in what conditions it is used, how it is cared for, transport , and
maintenance, all play a critical role in the effective life of the pulley/trolley. It is
possible to have to retire a pulley/trolley after only one use. This may happen because
of intensity of uses, incorrect use, harsh environments, chemicals, extreme
temperatures, etc.

Storage: As a general rule of thumb, take care of your gear, know the use history and
do not leave your gear laying around. Gear should be stored in a well ventilated area
which is out of direct sunlight. Avoid any contact with corrosive liquids such as acids
or chemicals. Use caution when storing gear in places where mold can develop. Any
moisture should be wiped from gear before storage, especially if the gear was used in
salty environments.

Transport: Transporting gear can be tricky. One should use caution when leaving
gear in a car or car trunks as extreme heat can occur and could potentially degrade
gear.

Repair: Any modifications of any CMI equipment is prohibited. If any parts are worn
to the point that the gear does not function properly, that gear should be retired or sent
back to CMI for inspection.

Cleaning/Drying: No lubrication is necessary with CMI pulleys/trolleys or blocks, as

the sealed bearings and bushings are both self lubricating. If the pulley/trolley does
become squeaky, a light household oil should quiet it down. Do not use heavy gear
oils or WD-40 as that can dry out and damage the bearings. Never submerge your
pulleys/trolleys in water. Doing so may allow water to enter into the bearing and /or
bushing and cause premature wear. Do not use high pressure water to clean
pulleys/trolleys as doing so could again force water into the internals causing
premature wear. CMI recommends wiping dirty pulleys or gear with a damp cloth. If
gear is extremely dirty, use a small brush to remove any caked on dirt. Never use
acids or harsh cleaners, doing so can be detrimental to the life of the product.

Some CMI gear has plastic parts. Again wiping with a damp cloth is the
recommended cleaning method. Use a soft towel and thoroughly air dry in a place that
is out of direct sunlight. Avoid allowing gear to dry in close proximity to direct heat
sources such as space heaters, wood stoves, radiators and direct sunlight.

Personalization: As a general rule, one should never stamp or carve their information
into any metal gear. This type of marking could affect the products performance,
depending on the depth, force of impact, and the chosen area. There are however,
several accepted methods for marking your product. CMI pulleys/trolleys may be
marked on the outside of the sideplates with an electric engraving pen, a paint pen, or
even a colored electrical tape. Never dip your gear in paint as doing so could damage
the product. Never mark any working or moving parts of the pulley/trolley. The best
area to mark your pulley/trolley is on the outside of the pulley/trolley on a flat surface
in an area that will not interfere with the mechanical action of the pulley/trolley.
Never mark any plastic pieces on any CMI gear. Doing so may weaken the plastic.

Checking the pulley/trolley / Pre-use inspection: Always know the product history
of your gear! If possible, compare your gear to new gear to verify that there are no
modifications or missing pieces.

 For pulleys/trolleys with moving sideplates, verify that the sideplates rotate freely. If the
sideplates do not rotate freely, do not use the product. Retire, discard or send back to CMI for
evaluation.

 Check the condition of any and all attachment holes for any odd marks,
deformation, cracks or corrosion. If any of these conditions exist, do not use the
product. Retire, discard or send back to CMI for evaluation.

 Check the condition of the locknuts. CMI uses the industry standard for
locknuts. In all the hundreds of thousands of pulleys we have sold, we have never
had a locknut come loose. That being said, it is still good practice to look at and
inspect to make sure all locknuts are tight. Never remove locknuts. Doing so
defeats the locking mechanism of the nut.

 Check the condition of the sheave/sheaves. Check for any marks, deep grooves,
deformation, corrosion, and make sure no foreign bodies are lodged between the
sheave and the sideplate. Give the sheave a spin test by simply spinning the wheel.
Verify that the sheave turns freely. In all CMI pulleys there should be a small
amount of side to side wobble. That is normal. If the sheave wobbles excessively ,
or does not spin freely, remove from service. (1) It should be noted that on all CMI
trolleys, the bearings may be somewhat tight upon first use. This is normal. As the
trolleys get more use, the bearings will break in and the sheaves will turn more
freely. Grab the sheave and check to make sure there is no excessive up-down or
side to side motion of the sheave on the axle. If there is excessive motion, this
would indicate that there is either excessive wear of the axle or bushing/bearing
or both. The pulley should be removed from service immediately if this condition is
found.

 Lastly, install your pulley on a suitable anchor and place a compatible rope or
cable around the sheave. Move the rope/cable in both directions to ensure proper
pulley function.

In addition to routine checks, it is also good practice to have gear checked by a

competent person every 12 months or after an extreme event has occurred.

!Always remember your life depends on your gear. When in doubt, replace it or do not
use it!

1. Check the door seals.

A loose seal allows cool air to seep out, wasting energy and causing your fridge to
work harder than it needs to. First make sure the seals are free of food residue. (Clean
them about twice a year, using a toothbrush and a solution of baking soda and water.)
Then try the dollar-bill test: Close the bill in the door so that half is in and half is out.
If it slips out easily, you may need to have the door seals checked by a pro.

2. Keep the coils clean.

When the condenser coils (see following page for more on parts) are covered with
dust, the refrigerator can’t run efficiently. Twice a year, pull the machine from the
wall to reveal the coils in back (or snap off the grille, if the coils are on the bottom
front), unplug the refrigerator, and vacuum with the brush attachment.

3. Set the right temperature.

Keep the fridge between 37 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit and the freezer at 0 degrees.

4. Fill it up (even if you never cook and only have takeout).

Refrigerators need “thermal mass” (a.k.a. lots of stuff) to maintain low temperatures.
Cool foods and drinks help absorb warm air that streams in when you open the door.
If you’re the eat-out type or your fridge is too big for your needs, store a few jugs of
water in there.

5. Be prepared.
If the power goes out, keep the doors closed and use foods from the pantry. An
unopened refrigerator will keep food safe for four hours; a freezer will maintain its
temperature for 48 hours if full and 24 hours if half-full

1. Check the owner’s manual for your particular unit. There are many different types
of freezers, and they can have slightly different care instructions and placement of
parts, so make sure that you are familiar with how yours works.
2. Place the freezer in a temperature-stable area. Extreme changes in temperature
outside your unit will cause the freezer to work harder at its job, causing strain. It
might seem like cold temperatures would help a freezer, but remember that it’s
only designed to withstand freezing temperatures on the inside! Also be aware
that condenser coils can emit heat, so make sure there is some space for airflow
between the freezer and any walls or nearby items.
3. Check the thermostat regularly. Many freezers have a built-in thermostat, but if
yours does not, you can use a thermometer. The temperature should be set at 0
degrees Fahrenheit (-18 degrees Celsius), so adjust the controls when necessary.
If your unit starts fluctuating on its own, you should get it checked.
4. Check the gasket regularly. The gasket, or seal, of your freezer makes sure that
cold air stays in and warm air stays out of the unit. If the seal is damaged or
broken, your freezer will leak and its performance will suffer. If you notice damage,
 get the gasket replaced immediately to save yourself some money on energy
consumption.
5. Keep the freezer clean. You can easily clean your freezer with a damp rag and dish
detergent. Make sure you reach all of the interior, exterior, and the seals. You can
use a spray cleaner to remove tougher spills and deodorizers to remove nasty
smells. Frost buildup is normal, and you need to periodically defrost the unit to
remove the buildup (see below for more details).
6. Keep the freezer full. For the best results, keep your freezer at least half full of
food. This helps stabilize the temperature and keep energy consumption down. It
might seem counter-intuitive, but the food retains its temperature easier than
plain air when the door is opened.

Water Cooler Maintenance

Just as it is important to know how to clean your water cooler, it’s also critical that you
know how to properly maintain your water cooler. Cleaning your cooler is the single
most important thing you can do to keep it running efficiently. Always remember these
tips which should apply to most water cooler brands:

Never lubricate the compressor, as it has an air-tight seal. Many coolers have
an auto-reset overload protection switch, so check if yours is equipped with
Whenever the water cooler is completely empty, unplug it from the power
one.
source. If it’s plugged in, it should always have water.
Check the wire grid on the back of the cooler every month to remove dust or
lint. You can dust these areas or vacuum them.
Be sure to check for leaks. A quick, visual test is typically good enough. You
don’t want to move the unit too frequently, because this can greatly increase
the likelihood of leaks in your water cooler.
While water cooler cleaning and maintenance takes a bit of time, it’s the best
way to ensure your water cooler always dispenses fresh, clean drinking water
for as long as you have it.
Follow Ice Machine Maintenance Schedules
The first thing to keep in mind is the frequency with which your ice machine
needs maintenance. Though this varies from manufacturer to manufacturer,
you should expect to conduct this maintenance at least two to four times a
year; your owner’s manual can provide information specific to your model
regarding the method and frequency of its maintenance. Other
manufacturers provide their maintenance guidelines on the machine
itself; Hoshizaki ice machines, for example, include a label on the inside of
the front panel that includes instructions on how to properly clean your
model. Be sure to follow your manufacturer’s guidelines no matter the style
of your machine, as not doing so may cause damage to the unit.

Proper Cleaning and Sanitizing

It’s not enough that your ice machine looks clean; as any responsible
foodservice purveyor knows, the real danger comes from what you can’t
see. Though some bacteria growth common to ice machines is visible –
anyone who’s opened up their unit and found slime or algae on its
components can attest to that – you can’t assume that your machine is free
of microbes just because you can’t see their presence. As part of its regular
maintenance, the following parts of the machine must be both cleaned.

 All elements of the water system

 Air filters (for air-cooled models)
 Evaporator plates (if buildup of calcium, iron or lime is present)
 Condenser coil
 Condenser fan blades
 Storage bin

Most of the cleaning process can be conducted using a solution engineered

for ice machines; your sanitation services provider should have one
available. Be sure to pick a variety that is 30% or less phosphoric acid, as a
concentration higher than that may do damage to the stainless steel
elements of your units. Removable parts should be brushed clean, as
should the condenser coil. A cloth can be used on rubber elements like
gaskets and O-rings. Once all parts are clean, those that come into contact
with water or ice must be sanitized with either bleach or a commercial
solution, rinsed, and allowed to air dry. Make sure that your hands are
thoroughly washed when handling these parts post-sanitization to avoid
infecting them with bacteria all over again. Be sure also to circulate ice
machine cleaning solution through the water system while its parts are
removed and to flush it with clean water. Finally, reassemble your machine,
give its exterior a good wipe down with a basic cleaner, and check to make
sure that your unit has plenty of room to breathe; limited air flow can lead to
malfunctions and poor performance.

Ice Machine Inspection List

While you wait for the sanitized elements to dry, be sure to…

1. Check the unit’s temperature

2. Check that the controls and wiring are undamaged and operating
properly
3. Check fasteners for functionality and corrosion
4. Check the external filter system and change its cartridge if needed
5. Check inlet water valve screens for blockages
6. Inspect auger and bearing (for extruded ice machines)

Doing so will help keep your machine clean and functioning at maximum
efficiency. You can service some of these elements on your own if you
discover any issues; blockages in inlet water valve screens are easily
cleared with ice machine cleaning solution and fresh water, for example,
and changing the cartridge on your external filter system is typically a
simple and straightforward task. Issues in other areas, however, speak to
larger problems that should be handled by an experienced technician –
especially if they threaten the safety of your employees (as might be the
case with faulty wiring or loosened fasteners). If you encounter any issues
of this nature, be sure to call a technician post haste to limit downtime and
ensure that your business remains a safe place to work.

Make Ice Machine Maintenance a Priority

Proper maintenance can increase ice machine efficiency by up to 25%! Read

more! #Hospitality #Restaurant… https://t.co/aAC0buvIL0

Commercial ice machines can often seem like remarkable pieces of

machinery. Just plug it in and leave it to create the ice you need to cool your
customers’ drinks or pack your perishables. As with any other machine,
however, your ice maker needs regular maintenance to ensure that it
remains a valuable asset to your business. Though it may seem like a
hassle, a little bit of extra work now is worlds better than sick customers or a
broken part later. Looking for more info on how to keep your ice maker in
tip-top shape? Our friendly customer service representatives are always
available to answer any maintenance questions you might have.

Sterilizer

1. Clean the Air Trap Jet by moving the clean out wire in and out 10 times.
2. The Air Jet is located in the water reservoir. It is best cleaned while the unit
is running (20-30 psi), although this is not mandatory.
3. For automatic models, clean the water sensor in the rear of the chamber
with a damp cloth or sponge.
4. Cleaning the dirt off the sides of the sensor is more important than the tip.
5. Clean the chamber with Chamber Brite. Sprinkle the Chamber Brite powder
along the bottom of a cold autoclave chamber. If the unit is hot, then fill it
with water first. Run a normal sterilization cycle without drying.
6. Drain and flush the solution from reservoir and discard. Wipe the inside of
the chamber with water and a damp cloth or sponge. Fill the reservoir with
distilled water.
7. Check the Chamber Brite package for further details.
8. Flush the fill tube at the back of the chamber
9. For semi-automatic models, turn knob to fill.
10. For automatic models, push the manual water fill button.
Take the blender apart- Unplug the blender unit. Remove the jar assembly from
the motor base. Remove the jar lid. Unscrew the base of the jar, being careful
of the blade. Remove the gasket seal and the blade.
Wash the jar- Clean the jar with warm soapy water and a dish rag or sponge.
Rinse it thoroughly, then dry it carefully. The jar of the blender can also be
washed in the dishwasher on the top rack, although hand-washing is faster and
eliminates the risk of etching the glass or plastic.
Wash the other small pieces- Hand-wash the gasket seal, cutting blade, and jar
base (or locking ring). Use warm soapy water, and take care to watch the sharp
edges of the blade. Rinse the parts thoroughly, then dry them.
Run the blender for stuck-on items- If your blender sat for a while without
being cleaned, you may have some dried, stuck-on food to contend with. To
make it easier on yourself, mix a 1:1 ratio of baking soda and water, and run it
through the assembled blender. Dump out the solution. Take apart the blender
and follow the steps above for washing the components.
Clean the motor housing- Always unplug the blender before cleaning the motor
base. Wipe down the motor base with a warm, damp cloth. Never submerge
the base in water. It is not safe to put in the dishwasher, either. A wipe-down is
all it needs. Remember to wipe down the cord periodically and to check it for
damage.
Reassemble the blender and store- If you use your blender often enough, store
it on your countertop or in another easily accessible location. If your blender
only makes it out for special occasions, store it in a less accessible place.
1.Clean your oven regularly

2. Safely use your oven's self-cleaning feature

3. Don't clean under oven knobs

4. Replace the gas

5. Unplug oven when cleaning with water

6. Inspect your oven's burners

7. Create a spill barrier

Deep fryer a kitchen appliance used

for deepfrying. While
commonly used in commercial
kitchens, household models are
available and have become
common

For proper maintenance of your deep fryer, there are 2 main components you
need to consider. First of all, you need to care for it properly and secondly, you
have to filter the oil and change it regularly in order to ensure the quality and
taste of the food is maintained. Don’t forget to also regularly clean and inspect
both the oil and the machine.

Tips For Cleaning Your Commercial Deep Fryer

To have the peace of mind you can use your deep fryer for years to come,
make sure to clean and maintain it properly. While learning more about the
general cleaning procedures for this type of equipment, you should also refer
to the owner’s manual for more specific cleaning tips.

The element should be cleaned every time the oil is changed or filtered. Also,
when you filter or drain the oil from the vat, any elements that are submerged
in it need to be brushed clean. This way, proper heat transfer is going to be
maintained. Don’t forget to scrub off food particles and crumbs off the fry pot
walls as well.
At the end of each day, the exterior needs to be properly wiped off, especially
around the fry vat’s rim. If you don’t do this, then the oil will drizzle to the
floor and cause slip and fall accidents.

The fry baskets need to be cleaned at the end of each day. Remember that
before you place them back over the oil, the baskets need to be dry.

Make sure to boil out the deep fryer every three to six months. This is basically
a thorough cleaning of the fry pot and it’s mandatory that you do it properly.
For this, you need to drain the old fryer oil, fill the vat with a mild cleaning
solution and warm water and then turn on the fryer until the water simmers.
Use a brush with a soft bristle (it needs to have a long handle, too) to clean
the equipment, but be careful not to injure yourself while you’re at it. Lastly,
the solution needs to be drained and the vat rinsed with warm water prior to
using cooking oil to refill it.

The fryer should be inspected every year and while the inspection varies based
on manufacturer, you need to properly check all fittings to ensure they’re tight.
Check the fry pot as well to see whether it leaks or not. If you see anything
that’s worn out or loose, be sure to tighten and replace it.

Fryer Oil Maintenance and Usage Tips

Maintaining the oil is as important as maintaining the fryer. Use the tips below
when handling your fryer oil.

Always stick to the recommended cooking temperatures. Each type of fryer

has an ideal cooking temperature that ranges between three hundred and
three hundred and fifty degrees F. If you go above these temperatures, then
you may cause the oil to burn and adversely affect the taste of the food
cooked in it. On top of that, you’ll also need to replace the oil quite often,
resulting in extra expenses.

To prolong the life of your oil, you have to regularly filter it. This will depend
on the type of oil you use, but also your cooking volume.

When required, be sure to change the oil. Sure, filtering it will prolong its life,
but in the end you’re going to have to replace it. The best time to replace it is
when the oil makes the food taste bad, starts to smell or turns brown.

Servicing Your Commercial Deep Fryer

 If you need to service your deep fryer, always consider the services of an
authorized service agency. If your fryer is still under warranty, then the costs of
repairing it will be covered by the manufacturer.

Lastly, to keep your fryer in great working condition, always use high quality
accessories. Also, pay very close attention to the consistency, cleanliness and
quality of the oil used. If you notice any changes in these aspects, it’s best that
you clean your machine and change your oil right away.

Fill the sink half full of water and add 2 cups of vinegar. This is going
to be where your dishwasher bits are soaking while you clean up around
the walls and base. If you don't have vinegar, consider the following:
.

. Lemonade drink mix or lemon-flavored Kool-Aid mix. (Don't

use strong colors that might stain. There is no need to add the sugar.)
. Lemon juice
. A dishwasher cleaning product [1]
.

.
.

2
Remove the holders and racks. The two "shelves" of the dishwasher
should be removed, along with the utensil holder and any other pieces
that aren't a part of the racks. If they're small, place them into your
vinegar-water sink for cleaning. If they don't fit, wipe them down with a rag
damp with the same vinegar solution.
.

. Check for food bits! If any are stuck on, use a toothpick or
similar small, sharp tool to pry away at what's been caked on.
.
.

3
Clear any debris out of the holes in spinning arms. Look to make sure
all the holes are open so that water can run through them freely. If you
have this problem, those holes will need to cleaned in order for your
 dishwasher to run efficiently. Use fine pointed or needle-nose pliers if you
have some; otherwise, try a toothpick or something similar. Take care not
to scratch anything if you're using a tool with a metal point. Remember to
take your time and be careful.
.

. If these holes are very small, bend a fine wire with a tiny
hook on one end. Thread the wire through the opening most distal from
the center of the arm. Each time you do this a small amount of debris will
come out.
. Another option is to drill a much larger hole at the end of the
arm. Run the washer to eject the matter, then plug the bigger hole with a
stainless steel screw.
.

.
.

4
Wipe around the edges of the door and around the gasket. This
space doesn't get washed during the dishwasher cycle. Use a damp cloth
and the vinegar solution (or, if you like, a bit of mild spray cleaner). An old
toothbrush or other soft, household brush can help get into corners and
up under the gasket, too.
.
. Don't forget under the bottom of the door! In some
dishwashers, this is a dead spot where water doesn't go, so it can
accumulate debris. Wipe this off with your vinegar rag. If anything is
caked on, bust out your scrub brush as necessary.
.

5
Remove mildew or mold with bleach. Run a separate cycle from any
acid cleaners you have used and never mix bleach with other cleaners or
with dishwasher detergent. Bleach is a very strong chemical, both on you
and on your dishwasher, so use it sparingly and only when necessary.
.

. If mold and mildew is a problem, leave the dishwasher

loosely open for a while after each cycle to allow it to dry out.
. Avoid using bleach and detergents containing bleach if your
dishwasher has a stainless steel interior or door.
.

.
.

6
Tackle rust stains. If your water has a lot of iron or rust in it, rust may be
beyond your control. If possible, address the problem at its source. If the
problem isn't rusty pipes, water softeners can remove a limited amount of
iron from water but they mostly work by exchanging minerals that are hard
to clean off surfaces for salts that are relatively easy to clean. Filters do
exist to remove iron from water and might be worth looking into if your
water is extremely high in iron.
.

. Use a dishwasher-safe rust remover for the stains

themselves, but seek out a professional to ask how they got there in the
first place.[2]
. If the finish is chipping or flaking off the wire baskets in your
dishwasher, try a paint-on sealant made just for dishwasher racks. Pull
out the racks and check the bottoms, too. If the damage is severe or
widespread (not just a few tines but all of them), see if you can replace the
entire rack. Online stores sell a wide variety of appliance parts, so your
replacement part may be very easy to find.
.

7
Replace all parts back into your dishwasher. Once the grate, filter,
arms, and all the insides have been given their thorough cleaning and the
smaller parts have had a chance to soak, place them back in as normal.
Or proceed to the next section -- if your dishwasher is really bad, you can
take apart the bottom and really get down to business.

Mastering Routine Maintenance

.

1.Use your dishwasher regularly. It will help to prevent food and other debris from
building up in there, reducing the need to clean it. Occasionally run it empty, too -- on
the short, water-saving cycle, of course!
2.Run a bit of hot water in your sink before running the dishwasher. You will get
cleaner dishes if the water starts hot. You can collect the water you run and use it for
watering plants or other purposes. Run the water until what comes out of the tap feels
hot. Set the thermostat on your water heater to 120F (50C) [3]. Water that is cooler
than this won't be very effective for cleaning. Water that is hotter than this may scald
people.
3.Run the garbage disposal before starting the dishwasher. The dishwasher drains
into the same pipe as your sink, so that drain must be clear. If you're experiencing
problems with your dishwasher, it may actually be stemming from your garbage
disposal.
4.Periodically run the dishwasher with vinegar. Place 2 cups of vinegar in the
bottom of your dishwasher and run it on low, or the energy-saving setting.
Halfway through, stop the dishwasher and let the vinegar soak on the bottom
for 15 or 20 minutes.
 After the time is up, turn it back on to finish. If it's really bad, you can let it soak
overnight.
If smell is an issue, sprinkle 1/2 - 1 cup of baking soda around the bottom and run
the washer as normal.
5.Spray the front of your dishwasher with a mild spray cleaner. Wipe it down with a
sponge or soft cloth. Pay particular attention to the controls and the handle. Also, don't
miss the little ledge between panels; they tend to collect dirt.
6.Refill your dishwasher's rinse aid dispenser about once per month. Rinse aid helps to
prevent spots on your dishes. Unscrew the round knob in the dishwasher door and
pour in rinse aid according to package directions or your dishwasher's manual.
Don't use rinse aid if you have a water softener.
 Solid rinse aids are available. If you forget to refill liquid rinse aid, the solid
ones are more visible, so they may help you remember.
 If you prefer, some dishwasher detergents now have built-in rinse aid.

Dishwasher A dishwasher is a mechanical

device for
cleaning dishware and cutlery
automatically. Unlike manual
dishwashing, which relies
largely on physical scrubbing to
remove soiling, the mechanical
dishwasher cleans by spraying
hot water, typically between 45
and 75 °C (110 and 170 °F), at
the dishes, with lower
temperatures used for delicate
items.[1]

machine for washing dishes

automatically.
 General Tips:

1. Regularly drying your sink works wonders to prevent water and

surface rust marks.

2. To keep your sink looking fabulous, do a quick, light cleaning each time
you use it. Clean up waste residue before it dries and don't let liquids sit for
long.

3. Wear rubber gloves when working with cleaners to protect your hands.

4. Never mix cleaners. Some products react to create dangerous gases.

5. There are thousands of blended or compound cleaners on the market.

Users are advised to contact suppliers of solvents for information on their
applications on stainless steel.

6. DO NOT USE SOLVENTS in closed spaces or while smoking.

Two Sink Unit Double bowl sinks offer

advantages single bowl sinks
can't provide, including
increased storage capacity,
more organizational ability and
easier dishwashing. If you
choose a double bowl sink, use
it properly to gain the most
from this kitchen appliance.
Once you learn how to use it,
you will see how this effective
tool improves your cooking and
cleanups.