Sporades Sailing Pilot PDF

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3
The Sporades Sailing Pilot
DJ Nairn
ISBN: 9780956945815
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COPYRIGHT NOTICE
© Dave Nairn 2012
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in an information
retrieval system, electronic or otherwise, or transmitted in any form or by any means
including: electronic, mechanical, graphical, copying, photocopying, recording, taping,
scanning or otherwise, except under the terms of the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act
1988, without the permission in writing of the author or publisher.
The sketch maps drawn by the author are meant to illustrate and explain the text and should
not be used for navigation. While every effort has been made to ensure the text and sketch
maps are accurate the author and publisher assume no liability or responsibility arising out of
any errors made in this book. To report any errors or suggest content improvement please
email: delphinuspublishing@gmail.com
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Sailing in Sporades
© Delphinus Publishing Ltd Psathoura

Yioura
Kira Panayia Piperi
Pappous
Pel
Gulf of Alonissos
ion
Skiathos Peristeri
Volos
Adhelfi
el
h ann Skopelos
iC
riker Skantzoura
T
Ev
ia Ch
an Evia Skyros
nel
Skiathos Island | Skopelos Island | Alonnisos Island | Peristera Island | The Deserted Islands | Gulf Of Volos and Pelion |
Evia Island | Skyros Island | Index
The Northern Sporades, Gulf of Volos and surrounding seas provide sailors with an
exceptional cruising area. The islands and areas in the Gulf of Volos have their own unique
character, having escaped the detrimental effects of large scale tourism. The formation of
the National Park should help to preserve the environment which is important to the
abundance of wildlife and some endangered species. The weather is dominated by meltemi
winds which provides exhilarating sailing between the islands and fast flat water conditions
on their leeward side and in the Gulf of Volos. The facilities for yachts are not as well
developed as in other cruising areas but adds to the charm of the Northern Sporades,
making this area a joy to sail. The Sporades island group sits astride the traditional sea-trade
route between the Black Sea and the Mediterranean but the history of the area is more than
just peaceful commerce as their geographic position placed the islands in the cockpit of
relentless bloody conflicts down through the centuries.
Their Aegean location was slap-bang in the firing line for any naval incursions heading for
the Greek Mainland and even if an invading force, such as the Persians, advanced down the
mainland coastal plain then their left-wing was invariably protected by a strong fleet sailing
just offshore. As island settlements prospered and grew they became more attractive for
plundering and inhabitants were forced to build fortifications, usually on hilltops or
surrounded by cliffs, and often hidden from seaward.
In olden times sailors tended to hug the coast and the narrow channel between Skiathos and
the Pelion Peninsula on the mainland coast of Magnesia, with the Island of Evia just to the
south, created a natural choke-point for shipping whether intent on peaceful commerce or
war.
The area was a very important link in the complex chain of constantly manned signalling
towers constructed by the Greeks to speedily pass important military messages across water
and trackless terrain. Aeschylus, the Athenian tragic poet, described in his Agamemnon how
6
news of the Fall of Troy in 1184BC was transmitted 600 km in a few hours by fire signals
from the battle site to the city of Argos in the Peloponnese via Makistos (Vigil Candle)
Mountain on Evia.
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SKIATHOS ISLAND
eln
han
Gourouni
Pelion Sipias
sC
Peninsula
Sko
ho
iat
pel
Sk
Skiathos
os
Ch
Sk
op
ann
el
Lefteris Repi
os
el
Trikeri
Channel
Pondikonissi
Evia © Delphinus Publishing Ltd
Skiathos Island harbours & anchorages

The Isle of Skiathos is a green and verdant spot in the Aegean and attractive from seaward.
Some say the island got its name from skia meaning ‘shade or shadow’ in Greek and like
some other Sporades islands is covered in vegetation. Others claim a more romantic
meaning behind the name and say it’s a combination of skia and athos and came about
because the shadow of Mount Athos created by the sun on Midsummer’s Day ‘kissed’ and
thus blessed the Isle of Skiathos. The 6,600 ft high Mount Athos, on the Halkidi Peninsula,
has housed a monastic community since the 3rd century and is known as the Holy Mountain
Only problem is that Mount Athos being north of Skiathos could never cast a shadow on
Skiathos although Mount Pelion might at sunset.
Katigiorgis is just 2.5 NM away on the Mainland across the Skiathos Channel and to the
north the Halkidi Peninsula has helped bar the traditional sea route for invaders bent of
sujugating Greece. Persian King Darius saw 300 of his ships wrecked wrecked on Halkidi’s
rocky tip by a storm in 492BC and Sparta had 50 ships share the same fate in 411BC.
Skiathos is famous for its beaches and has more than 60, many only accessible by boat and
despite being a busy tourist destination the island still holds a unique charm for visitors who
are repeatedly drawn-back. The island has its own international airport with daily flights to
Athens and charter services from many European airports in the summer. Indeed, growing
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tourism has led to plans being announced at the end of 2011 to increase the size of the
airport which will lead to Xanemos Beach being built over. Ferry services run from the
island to Ag Konstantinos on Evia and the City of Volos.
A single main road runs along the south coast from Skiathos Town to Koukounaries served
by regular bus services which makes it very simple to leave your yacht and explore some of
the many beaches dotting the island’s coastline. The buses can get very crowded in the
main holiday season but bike, scooter and vehicle hire outlets are plentiful. Skiathos Town
has everything you would expect and need from this size of community and with good
night-life, excellent restaurants, shops and boutiques.
It hasn’t always been the main settlement on the island with people shifting backwards and
forwards from The Kastro — the fortified cliff-top position on the north coast — built in
the 14th Century as a refuge from pirate attack. Skiathos is a small island about 5.9 x 4.5
nautical miles (nm) with a 21nm coastline so there wasn't a lot of places to hide from
invaders. Nowadays the sheltered south contains the majority of the population with the
remote northern coastline remaining rugged bearing the brunt of the prevailing NE meltemi
winds.
The island’s maritime history stretches back to ancient times with a 4th century BC mention
as an ideal anchorage for overwintering naval ships and local people rightly maintain pride
in their seafaring and maritime heritage. The Barbarossa Brothers were probably the most
infamous pirates but Skiathos suffered numerous corsair incursions with a long history of
relentless subjugation and constant attack from external forces including the Persian,
Roman, Byzantine, Venetian and Ottoman Empires.
Skiathos is studded with churches and monasteries — Evangelistria is the most visited
through its special significance as a centre of resistance during the long and often bloody
Greek independence struggle when Skiathites were sustained by their deep-seated faith in
the Greek Orthodox religion. There are almost 400 island churches, monasteries and
convents with many sited in Skiathos Town. St Nicholas has two island churches dedicated
to him and became patron saint of Seafarers & Sail through his voyages to the Holy Land.
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ISLE OF SKIATHOS
33
34 35
32
36
31 37
30
29
SKIATHOS
28 ISLAND 1
27 2 3 7
26 9
4
25 5 6
24 23
20 19 12 11
22
14
17 18 13
21 10
16 15
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1) Skiathos Bay | 1a) Skiathos Harbour | 2) Plakes Beach | 3) Lazaretta Beach | 4) Ak Pounta | 5) Arko Island | 6) Repi Island
| 7) Arapakia Reef | 8) Tsoungria Island | 9) Siferi Bay | 10) Kalamaki Peninsula | 11) Achladies Beach | 12) Tzanaries Beach
| 13) Kanapitsa Beach | 14) Prassonisso Islet | 15) Koutsouri Beach | 16) Delfiniki Beach | 17) Platania Bay | 18)
Vromolimnos Beach | 19) Kolios Beach | 20) Platania Beach | 21) Marines Reef | 22) Troulos Beach | 23) Koukounaries Bay
| 23a) Koukounaries Harbour | 24) Banana Beach | 25) Ag Eleni Beach | 26) Krifi Ammos Cove | 27) Mandraki Beach | 28)
Elias & Agistri Beaches | 29) Mega Aselinos Beach | 30) Mikros Aselinos Beach | 31) Katavothra Bay | 32) Ak Sozan | 33)
Ak Kastro | 34) Lalaria Beach | 35) Fonissas Cave | 36) Lehouni Cave | 37) Xanemos Beach
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1) SOUTHERLY APPROACHES TO SKIATHOS
0.5 miles 50
ias
20
50
sil
55
Va
60
Ak Mytikas Marangos
20 62 SKIATHOS BAY
Fl.6s
APPROACHES 60
ies
ar 50
z an 60
T Prassoniso
60 15 SE
Vr Mavromantilov
8 40
Kanapitsa 20
Ak
20
Ka
70
la
m
60
ak
50
i
20 50
30 20 20
60 40
Tsoungria
Tsoungriaki
60
80
11
20 20
80 2
S/SW 100
CAUTION
39°7'.3N 023°28'.0E
© Delphinus Publishing Ltd
When making a southerly or easterly approach to Skiathos Harbour the islands dotted around
the bay are easily identified. The most common approach, and easiest at night, is from the
south and follows the local airport flight path. Sailing north you leave Nisos Tsoungriaki to
starboard and Kalamaki Peninsula to port before encountering Daskalonissi the rocky islet at
the entrance to Skiathos Bay. From the east, the main channel can be found leaving Repi,
Arko and Marangos Islands to the north and Tsoungria Island to the south, then turning north
when clear of Marangos Island.
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SKIATHOS APPROACHES (INNER)
SKIATHOS HARBOUR 1 mile
APPROACHES V Fryni
V Sideriades
y
wa
Fl.R V Mepousa
run
15
Fl.R
Fl.R Aspronisi
7
50
NE
10
Skiathos Fl.R 20
Town 65
FL.R.1.5s Vr. Arapakia 85
10

20 Fl.3s
Fl.R
20 20 50 40
45 Ak Pounta
8 20 75
50
20 55 Arko
60 Marangos
Repi
20
Fl(2)WR10s
62 60
60 10
S/SW SE
39°9'.1N 023°29'.4E
An interesting passage can be found making for Skiathos Bay from the NE but care is needed
as rocks, between Arko and Aspronisi Islands and the reef extending off Ak Pounta, must be
avoided.
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1a) SKIATHOS HARBOUR
2 6
SKIATHOS pontoon
4
HARBOUR 4
4 10
Meltemi Cafe
ground chain
© Delphinus Publishing Ltd 8 14
5
10 18
Hotel Oz 6
Ferry 8
10 23
7
3 2 Fl.R.1.5s
3
5 4
1
4 7 4 Daskalonisi
3
8 Fl.3s
15
10
The Bourtzi
10
26
4 29
25 300 metres
39°9'.5N 023°29'.5E
Skiathos Harbour is located on the west side of Skiathos Bay with the formerly fortified
Bourtzi Peninsula separating the older quay from the more recently built one. Visiting and
charter yachts should head for the new harbour area north of the Bourtzi.
Safe water surrounds the small rocky
Daskalonissi Islet which is located in the
middle of the approach and has a small light
structure (Fl.3s.5M). You must give priority to
ferries as their manoeuvring abilities are very
restricted in the confines of the bay where
depths range from 8-13m dropping to 5-6m
approaching the quay. Nearer the newer
harbour a 200m breakwater quay/mole
becomes conspicuous extending eastwards
from the Bourtzi towards Daskalonissi Islet
with rock-ballasting on the south side and a red light marking its eastern extremity
(FlR1.5s3M). The breakwater’s northern side is reserved for ferries with depths ranging from
6-10m. The quay extends for 500m northwards with the first 200m is reserved for ferries,
larger boats and the port police RIB Top Gun with depths around 6-7m.
Further north on the quay, depths range from 4-6m with similar depths along the southern
side of the charter pontoon. Holding is very good mainly in soft mud in 7-12m. If the main
harbour area is busy it’s just possible to go stern-to on the south side of the main breakwater
quay. Start dropping your anchor in 12-15m and manoeuvre astern to rock ballasting where
there’s attachment points for shorelines. There are some lazy lines available on the harbour
quays connected to heavy ground chain 20m from the west and north quay walls. Drop
anchor past the ground chain and be cautious of crossing other people’s chains especially in
the NW harbour corner of the harbour. Pay close attention to the gap between the quayside
and yacht transom as ferry swell causes lots of damage every season. At night lengthen stern
lines to create more space and keep your gangplank on the yacht or quay at all times and it’s
13
advisable to be on guard when the ferries are
docking. In strong southerlies it’s extremely
uncomfortable and worth moving to another
anchorage if these conditions are forecast.
Hot showers are available at the Fresh Cafe.
Charter companies greet crews at the Meltemi
Cafe which is a good place for WiFi access and
up-to-date weather forecasts. There are plenty
of supermarkets ashore, a Post Office, banks,
ATMs, vehicle hire, chandlers, Port Police,
night-life, laundrette, diver, a boatyard, slip
and repairs. Fuel — Costa Ph: 6944774586.
Water — Spiro Ph: 6974704854.
Thenassis aka The Admiral and George Prusalis are excellent sources of information and
available to help with any problems you may have with your vessel in Skiathos or the
Sporades. Thenassis can usually be found running the Hotel Australia Ph: 6981199376 and
George directs a real estate business Ph: 6947443324 www.prusalis.com/en Both are keen
sailors and regularly work with local sailing companies.
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2) AK PLAKES & BOURTZI
2 Bourtzi
Old Harbour
SKIATHOS 18 diving board
10
TOWN
3 10

20
4
14
28
10
Ak Plakes
60 metres
10 39°9'.5N 023°29'.3E
Plakes Beach and the Bourtzi are easily accessible swimming spots close to Skiathos Town
and, below the cafe on the Bourtzi’s southern coast, you’ll find a diving platform. Ak Plakes
is the wooded headland SE of Skiathos Harbour with two small beaches accessible from the
town and by dinghy. The headland also has large flat rocks which are great for sunbathing
and swimming. There’s good holding in sand and weed at 5m off the beach but the prevailing
winds can make this temporary anchorage problematic.
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3) LAZARETTA BEACH
Daskalonisi
22
10 Fl.3s Lazaretta
10
Ak Pounta
32 10 30

Reefs 2 5
15
20
9 35
10 50
5
20 10 42
200 metres
39°9'.3N 023°29'.8E Marangos
Lazaretta is a small quiet beach located on the SW side of Ak Pounta Peninsula just east of
Daskalonissi (Fl.3s) in Skiathos Harbour. Open to the swell created by ferry traffic using
Skiathos Harbour it’s still a good spot to head in the dinghy to get away from the hustle and
bustle for a spell.
The beach is named after a long-gone hospital, now a hotel, which housed cholera and
leprosy sufferers. Relief boats crossed from the beach to a rock, near the Bourtzi, to collect
supplies left by islanders for family and friends quarantined to prevent the spread of any
contagion.
The Republic of Venice was a major European sea-trade power and a gateway to the east
through the many Greek Islands it occupied and and very exposed to plague outbreaks
which could wipe out communities at breakneck speed. The disease struck terror in afflicted
populations who believed God’s wrath was visited upon them for sinful activities.
After major plague outbreaks in 1576 and
1631 Venice pioneered fumigation and
quarantine to combat the spread of disease
with arriving ships were sent to remote spots,
usually islands named Lazzaretti after the
original near Venice, for isolation. Crew,
passengers and cargo were fumigated and held
for 40 days before given the all-clear and
allowed to dock. Such was the success that
Lazzaretti were created throughout the
Mediterranean and then the world.
16
4) AK POUNTA REEF
80 metres Ak Pounta
2 1
1 2
4 2
2
2 3 5
1

8 3
2 8
6
Ak Pounta Reef
39°9'.3N 023°30'.0E
Rocks and reefs just south of Ak Pounta are

dangerous but can be easily seen and avoided
during the day as they break the water surface.
Leave the rocks to the north and make passage
between Ak Pounta and Nisos Marangos to the
south. Shallow-draught boats can pass between
the rocks, but I wouldn’t advise this short-cut
on a sailing yacht.
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5) ARKO ISLAND
30 20 500 metres
25
gusts
2

50
10
20
5
30
30 2 4
ARKO
10
20 14
3
REPI
10 10
15
2Fl(2)WR.10s
25
39°8'.9N 023°30'.8E
Arko Island, located 1.5 NM to the SE of

Skiathos Harbour, is covered in dense
vegetation, some pine trees and the main beach
has a very conspicuous V-shaped sand scar
above it. A seasonal taverna serves excellent
mezzes and the beach makes a fantastic swim
stop. Anchor in 4-7m off the beach with good
holding. Metal stakes are available on shore to
tie lines to.
The southern cove has a more remote feel to it
and it’s an excellent place to stop if looking for
some privacy. Anchor in 3-6m in sand. Both beaches are open to some swell from occasional
ferry traffic but otherwise it’s a perfect temporary anchorage close to Skiathos.
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6) REPI ISLAND
35 40
5
5 2
3
REPI ISLAND
5
5 30
Fl.2.WR10s
5
10
50
15 20
150 metres
39°8'.7N 023°31'.6E
Nisos Repi is a short distance east of Nisos Arko with a conspicuous lighthouse. It has no
beaches but there’s an anchorage on the SW side as shown with reasonable holding in 4- 7m
on weed and stone but use only as a temporary anchorage. There’s excellent snorkelling
among the rocks on the island’s western and northern coasts.
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7) ARAPAKIA REEF
15 50 metres
ARAPAKIA 20
REEF 5 2
4
ledge
6 local know

20
2
1
18
2
5
1 10
39°9'.6N 023°30'.9E
Two distinct reefs lie between Nisos Arko and

Nisos Aspronisi with safe water around both
reefs. The most southerly reef is Vrak Arapakia
600m north of Nisos Arko and has two distinct
sections of rock above the surface. When
instructing yacht handling I often sail between
the two rocks forming this small southern most
reef. At night you should avoid making a
passage towards Skiathos Town through these
waters as it’s often difficult to judge the exact
position of these reefs.
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8) TSOUNGRIA ISLAND
39°7.'6N 023°29'.2E
TSOUNGRIA ISLAND 10
8
10
5
50 1

5
40
5
Tsoungriaki Tsoungria
15 15
11 3
0.5 miles 5
Tsoungria Island is the largest of the small islets surrounding Skiathos Bay and although
uninhabited it gets busy at the height of the season. The western side has two bays with
gently shelving, sandy beaches that are protected from northerly winds. Keep clear of reefs to
the north of the island extending from shore by 300-400m. At night you should avoid making
a passage between Tsoungria and the smaller Tsoungriaki Island to the west.
The beaches are a major attraction just a short distance from Skiathos Harbour. The southerly
Lalarias Bay is the larger of the two with a sand spit at its southern end. Enter the bay and
anchor in sand around 4-5m. The water shallows very quickly from 5m with some weed on
the bottom. Floros Beach is the more northerly bay on the island’s west coast but approach
and anchor in same way.
The church of St Floros is one of the most unusual in the Sporades and The Beatles tried to
buy the island in the 1960’s but there offer was refused. In the 1860 quarantine ships
carrying 250 sick people arrived and the government tried to set up a leper colony on
Tsoungria. But the area didn’t have the resources to support the facility and strong local
protests forced the authorities to back-down and shelve the plan.
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Tsoungriaki (Little Tsoungria) sits immediately west of Tsoungria and has a small anchorage
in a northern bay big enough for a couple of vessels. But swell from passing ferries can get
into the bay making it uncomfortable at times.
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9) SIFERI BAY
Megali Ammos Skiathos
800 metres Beach Town
Fl.R
4 1.5s
12
18
6
20
20 30 Fl.3s
Ak Plakes
SIFERI BAY 35
Vasilias Beach 45
20 60
55
Ak Mytikas
39°9'.2N 023°28'.9E
Ormos Siferi is a large bay west of Ak Plakes containing two large beach areas — Megali
Ammos and Vasilias with Megali Ammos at the head of the bay and suitable for anchoring
with some shelter from prevailing winds, however but open to the south and SE.
Anchor in 4-8m in sand and weed away from the swimming areas and towards the bay’s west
side. Megali Ammos is narrow with a gently sloping sand and shingle beach. It’s close to
Skiathos and can get very busy during the season. The narrow and pebbly Vasilias Beach is
located south of Megali Ammos with a steep climb down to the beach from the road with a
welcome taverna but suitable only as a temporary anchorage.
A Minoan tomb was found on Vasilias Beach and, like the tomb found on Skopelos, faced
the sea. Vasilias means King and lends support that a high status Minoan was buried at this
spot. Ruins of a Roman bathhouse have also been discovered in the area and give an
indication of the permanency of the Roman occupation of Skiathos.
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10) KALAMAKI PENINSULA

Ak. Mytikas
Achladies
20
KALAMAKI
PENINSULA Ak Achladia
Tzanaries Prassoniso
20 Fl.6s
Vr. Mavromantilou
Kanapitsa
Ak. Kanapitsa
Koutsouri
39°7'.8N 023°28'.1E
20
Delfiniki
Ak. Kalamaki
20 200 metres
This large pine-clad peninsula juts out into the sea between the two resorts of Tzanaries and
Kolios. The area was developed back in the 1960s but remains one of the more exclusive
spots on Skiathos Island.
It’s tempting but don’t cut too close to Ak Kalamaki Peninsula when going round the
headland which has numerous reefs and rocks extending from it. If you intend to cruise along
the coastline watch-out for Vr Mavromantilou Rock which is awash between the rocky islet
of Nisos Prassonisso and Ak Kanapitsa.
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11) ACHLADIES BEACH
Achladies Beach is long and narrow and composed of fine sand. Behind the beach The
Espirides Hotel is conspicuous. Good holding off the beach in 5-8m in sand away from
swimming area. The beach shelves gently into the sea making it a fine spot for swimming. A
well-organised beach with tavernas at the western end. Achladies means pear in Greek and is
located at the end of a small valley with olive and citrus trees.
12) TZANARIES BEACH
Tzanaries Beach is small and sandy. You can anchor-off in 5-7m. The huge Nostas Hotel
Complex looks over the beach from the hills on the bay’s south side and is very conspicuous.
The beach is in fine condition with the sand regularly raked. Though open to prevailing winds
it can be very calm and well-sheltered by the cliffs.
13) KANAPITSA BEACH
Kanapitsa is the main beach area on the Kalamaki Peninsula with two long, narrow stretches
of fine sand and shallow water. A beach cantina offers water sports and there’s a small pool
bar, near the Hotel Plaza, just behind the beach. Anchor off the beach in 5-8m with good
holding in sand. There’s a small jetty for mooring dinghies but it’s too shallow to berth a
yacht.
25
14) PRASSONISSO ISLET
PRASSONISO ISLET & Prassoniso

MAVROMANTILOU REEF
Fl.6s
Vr Mavromantilou 3
local knowledge
3

3 2
apitsa
Kan
Ak
50 metres
39°8.'1N 023°28'.0E
Vrak Prassonisso is a small islet a few cables

north of Kalamaki Peninsula. It’s got a light
structure on it but isn’t easy to see at night
against background shore lights. However, it’s
far enough away from the main channel not to
be a hazard if making a night passage north
towards Skiathos Harbour.
Depending on the sea level, Vrak Mavromantilou Rock 39' 8.249'N 23' 27.936'E is awash
between Vrak Prassonisso and the shore. You can sail around Vrak Prassonisso by staying a
couple of boat lengths clear. The shallowest part lies between Vr Mavromantilou and the
headland at Ak Kanapitsa where an underwater spit shoals and extends from the Skiathos
headland.
26
15) KOUTSOURI BEACH
Directly opposite Kanapitsa is the small beach of Koutsouri with a small seasonal beach
cantina. The area is sometimes visited by day-tripper boats when other beaches are crammed
although being isolated and away from the road it seldom gets crowded.
16) DELFINIKI BEACH
Delfiniki Beach is just around the rocks from Koutsouri Beach and is a little gem. Its name
translates to Little Dolphin which perfectly describes the small beach where the eastern-end
tends to be cooler as it catches some of the prevailing wind.
Dolphins hold a special place in Greek mythology stretching back through the mists of
time. Zeus, Hades and Poseidon overthrew their father Cronus and divided the sky,
underworld and the sea between them.
Poseidon having inherited the sea built a magnificent underwater palace off the island of
Evia (Euboea). For all its splendor and opulence the Sea God felt it was empty without a
wife so he began searching for one and decided Amphitrite — a Nereid sea nymph and one
of the 50 daughters of Nereus and Doris — fitted the bill. He frightened Amphritite off with
his rough and tumultuous wooing and she fled to escape the attentions of the Sea God.
Legend recounts that the Nereids were reputedly friendly and helpful to sailors facing
perilous storms.
Poseidon decided to send the dolphin Delphinus as a messenger to persuade his intended
bride to accept his advances. The charm and silver-tongue of Delphinus seems to have
worked and Amphritite agreed to wed Poseidon and the happy pair produced many seals
and dolphins as offspring. In gratitude Poseidon placed the image of Delphinus amid the
stars in a constellation of the same name in the northern sky, near the celestial equator.
Looking though this book you’ll see that the publishing company is Delphinus Publishing
and the logo comprises a dolphin surrounded by the celestial constellation named after the
beautiful sea creature.
27
17) PLATANIA BAY
0.5 miles
sts
gu
gusts
Troulos Paraskevi
5 Kolios

5 12
25 20
25
5 18
35 Vromolimnos
10 20
Ak Tsimakokalo 5
15 50 12
12
ORMOS PLATANIA 8
Vr Marines
50 5 Kalamaki
30
55
40 55
20 10 5
39°7'.8N 023°26'.2E
Platania Bay lies on the south coast of Skiathos at the end of a large valley with a stream.
You will find comparatively good beaches and reasonable shelter from the prevailing
meltemi winds. There’s numerous apartment blocks with a multitude of tavernas and snack
bars. Until familiar with the area, approach Ormos Platania Bay from due south until you can
identify and recognise the rocks and reefs that are close-by. Watch-out for the unmarked rock
lying 150m out from Platania Bay’s eastern-end which might be hazardous if approaching
inshore from Kalamaki Peninsula.
The unmarked Vrak Marines is a very dangerous reef on the SW of Platania Bay forming an
underwater extension of the headland between Platania and Koukounaries Bays. I’ve seen a
few boats stranded on the reef and even had to rescue one.
18) VROMOLIMNOS BEACH
Despite meaning dirty lake in Greek, Vromolimnos Beach can be very busy and a popular
place to head for if you’re looking for a beach party although Banana Beach seems to have
edged into firm favorite in recent years. A beach bar blasts out music all day and has been
known to throw the occasional foam party. There’s really good swimming in the shallow
water and plenty of fine sand. It’s a fairly sheltered spot providing shelter from prevailing
winds. If cruising close to the coast watch for the rock (39' 8.028'N 23' 26.743'E) 85m from
the shore at the south end of the beach.
19) KOLIOS BEACH
Kolios is a small, narrow beach that can get busy in high-season partly due to the jetty used
for day-tripper boats. It’s well-sheltered from the prevailing meltemi and an excellent place to
head for if the wind is blowing hard and Skiathos Harbour is full. The beach shelves gently
into the water making it ideal for swimming. Pine trees at either end of the beach afford some
shelter from the sun. Local boats moor here and the bay tends to fill up in summer
particularly towards its eastern end. Apartments, pool bars and tavernas are dotted about with
a mini-market in the small village.
20) PLATANIA BEACH
Platania and Aghia Paraskevi Beaches can be considered the same beach area. Aghia
Paraskevi gets its name from a small church of the same name behind the beach. The beaches
shelve steeply so it’s possible to get a yacht close to the shore it gets busy during the height
of season.
A strong meltemi sometimes gusts-off the hillside and you might need to extend your anchor
28
scope. Mediocre holding in sand at around 5-10m. If staying on anchor for the night during
unsettled conditions you’ll find it more comfortable anchoring in Kolios Bay. Summer beach
tavernas and a hotel pool bar behind the beach have a full range of water-sports.
29
21) VRAK MARINES
Some pilot books suggest giving the
Tourlonissi Islet & Vrak Marine Rocks a wide
berth passing to the south and well clear of
dangers. At night this is sound advice due to
lack of light signals but it’s possible to make
passage between Tourlonissi and the shore but
ensure you avoid the shoal water extending
from Ak Ammoni headland.
It’s also possible to make a passage between
Tourlonissi and Vr Marines but stand well-
clear of Vr Marines because of the underwater
hazard which it creates and extends especially to the south of the reef formation.
30
22) TROULOS BEACH
TROULOS BEACH
Ak Ammoni
2 10 2
18
Ak Tsimakokalo
2 10
Tourlonisi 7

owledge
local kn 20
24
Vr Marines
30 2
39°7'.9N 023°24'.8E 30 0.5 miles
Troulos Beach is very popular and one of the main tourist beaches with a wide sandy stretch
with a backdrop of dunes and an apartment complex complete with supermarkets and
facilities. A dog sanctuary above Troulos Resort opens from 10am-2pm where visitors very
welcome to walk a dog. Approaching Troulos Beach you must avoid Vrak Marines and the
shoal water which extends from Ak Ammoni.
A Troulos farmer moved a large slab of stone
on his land and discovered the crypt of a 6th
Century church. The crypt treasures were sold
by the farmer who died soon after which soon
generated tales of a curse on anyone seeking
to profit from the treasure.
Troulos means Dome which was a feature of
Byzantine churches and probably how the
area got its name. The iconoclast Constantine
V destroyed the church, which was later
rebuilt only to be destroyed again, this time by
Catholic monks on a crusade to save the Holy
Land from the Saracens.
31
23) KOUKOUNARIES BAY
0.5 miles
Strofilia
Harbour

Hotel
8 5 (conspic)
5
10 15
Ormos
5 20 Marathos
20
30
2
KOUKOUNARIES
10 BAY 10
40 60
Ak Pounta 60
Ammoni Pt
50
Tourlonisi
39°8'.3N 023°24'.1E
Koukounaries Beach is one the best in the Aegean and backed by pine trees from which give
it takes its name. The large bay with fine golden sand is open to the south with rocky
outcrops extending from the eastern and western headlands. A large number of fixed parasols
and loungers have been erected.
The bay is ideal for anchoring with its deep,
sandy bottom although there are some
underwater beach-rock ledges running the
length of the bay and I’ve known anchors get
lodged under them in around 13m. A creek
from Strofilia Lagoon runs into a small harbour
in the NE corner of the bay. Fishing rights
were awarded to locals during Venetian
occupation and folklore claims a whirlpool in
the lagoon — known locally as The Eye —
could supposedly pull people and objects into it — just to be safe paddle in the sea.
Skiathos Palace Hotel sits conspicuously above the harbour with a rooftop pool bar to watch
the sun going down over the anchorage. A pathway through the nature reserve, beyond the
harbour car park, leads to provisions and tavernas. It’s a very busy beach during the day full
of sun loungers, a few beach bars and the constant buzz of jet ski and motor boats. Best to
enjoy the location’s tranquility out-of-season or at night after daytime activity ceases and the
day-trippers have departed and it comes into its own as the best Aegean Beach.
32
23a) KOUKOUNARIES HARBOUR
<1 50 metres
<1 <1
<1

3 2 <1
3 3
3
<1
5 4
2
4 4
KOUKOUNARIES
HARBOUR
3
4 2
4
39°8'.8N 023°24'.3E
There’s very little space inside the harbour against the southerly wall which is crowded with
daytime tripper boats with priority. Quay berths must be vacated by 10am during the high
season to let sun worshipers disembark. Alternatively you can long-line on the harbour
mole’s south side close to the ballasting where there’s sufficient depth or anchor off-the-
beach in the bay well clear of the harbour entrance and swim-buoys in 5-8m. There’s good
shelter from strong meltemis and I’ve spent the night anchored gusting above force Bf7. But
avoid Koukounaries Bay in anything more than light southerlies unless you get inside the
harbour.
33
24) KRASSAS (BANANA) BEACH
Banana Beach is actually made up of two distinct Big Banana and Little Banana Beaches.
The water is relatively shallow far out from the shore and the beach approach, in combination
with the prevailing winds, can sometimes make anchoring untenable.
The main Krassas beach is deep, long and sandy, heavily decked with sun loungers and beach
bars. Soft sand and pebbles shelve into the water and the beach is hugely popular with the
party people, with beach parties spontaneously erupting as sound systems crank-up and pump
out the beat. Lying just around the headland, Little Banana (Spartacus) Beach is more sedate
and is one of the island’s semi-official nudist beaches. It is small, flat and bounded by steep,
rocky cliffs that offer some privacy. When approaching by yacht you may be whistled away
unless joining in with the nudity.
Krassas is the old name for the beach and was the site of an ancient signal and fire tower
which were used to send signals from one end of the country to another. A network of these
towers throughout Greece were used by the Greek war council to coordinate defense against
hostile Persian invaders, particularly Xerxes and his father Darius.
34
25) AGIA ELENI BEACH
Agia Eleni is a secluded sand and fine pebble beach at the western end of Skiathos Island.
Although open to meltemi winds and swell there is some temporary shelter towards the north
end of the beach by anchoring as close to the shore as possible. Underwater cables run from
the beach to the Pelion Peninsula and must be avoided — white square signs mark their
location. Pine trees overlook the small beach which has two small tavernas at the northern
end. The water is shallow and the secluded beach is used as an unofficial nudist beach but
increasing popularity has forced naturists to move on in search of greater privacy. The west
facing beach provides breathtaking sunsets over the Pelion Peninsula.
35
26) KRIFI AMMOS COVE
Krifi Ammos Cove has a sand and pebble beach and lovely setting providing an ideal
anchorage in southerly or easterly winds. Some large rocks on the inside of the cove’s
western side are easily avoided and sufficient depth to anchor inside the cove but take a line
ashore as the small bay leave limited room to swing at anchor. A cantina sits high above the
bay and opens in the summer when a line of swimming buoys also appear.
36
27) MANDRAKI (XERXES) COVE
The beach at Mandraki is surrounded by shallow water and it may be a problem getting a
deep-draught yacht close to shore. Red cliffs are conspicuous behind the beach which is open
to the prevailing wind and considerable swell can develop here. You may be able to get some
shelter if you can get tucked in behind Ak Gournes at the north end of the beach.
A violent summer storm from the NE decimated the Persian navy in 480BC whilst en-route
to battle with Greek forces at Artemisium on North Evia. The Persian fleet was so
numerous that the sea channel between Skiathos and Pelion Peninsula was a forest of masts.
The Persian shallow-draught vessels couldn’t cope with the big sea and 400 ships were
sunk and washed onto the shoreline around this area. The storm continued for 3 days and it
sounds to me that it was most probably one of the rare, very strong, meltemi gales that
occur every 7-10 years.
Xerxes still managed to occupy Skiathos with the remainder of his fleet and apparently built
a fort at Mandraki. According to local folklore he also used the beach to repair some of his
less badly damaged vessels which had been washed-up.
SW of Mandraki, in the Skiathos Channel between the island and Pelion Peninsula lurks the
rocky Lefteris Reef which caught the attention of the ancient historian Herodotus (484-
426BC) who noted it was responsible for the sinking of at least three of the Persian King’s
ships.
As a result Xerxes ordered the building of a tall column to mark the isolated danger which
claims the distinction of being the first-ever navigational aid of this type. Some claim it was
the world’s first lighthouse and predated the impressive structure at Alexandria by over 200
years.
37
The story has always troubled me as I keep wondering why Xerxes went to this trouble for
a few ships when he had just lost hundreds and why it was so important right in the middle
of a massive sea invasion which was not going as planned. Answers on a card card pls.
28) ELIAS & AGISTRI BEACHES
Elias Beach is a large stretch of sand backed by dunes with a rough and ready taverna. The
western end of the beach drops steeply into the sea but there’s much shallower water to the
east. Elias is popular with kite surfers as the meltem blows directly onto this part of the coast
and provides absolutely brilliant conditions for them.
The approach is clear of all dangers until close to the shore. To the west of the main beach is
the small Agistri (Paradise) Beach which is a little more pebbly but still has plenty of sand.
The beaches are comparatively quiet and peaceful away from the crowds that cram the
southern coast resorts.
29) MEGHALOS ASELINOS BEACH
Mega Aselinos Beach is big but open to northerly meltemi which can blow here. It has a
beach taverna catering for day trippers and campers from the nearby site. The water is free of
dangers up to the shore and also an excellent spot for kite and wind surfing.
30) MIKROS ASELINOS BEACH
Mikro Aselinos is a small and secluded beach that has become a favourite of naturists who
have become displaced from a lot of the more popular beaches. The water is free from
dangers up to the coast. Anchor in weed and pebble in 5-7m off-the-beach or take a line
ashore to rocks at the eastern end of the beach.
38
31) KATAVOTHRA BAY
Shelter from moderate meltemi winds and swell can be found at Katavothra bay, an
anchorage on the NW coast of Skiathos. The headland at Ak Sozan provides shelter for the
bay which is suitable in calm weather and light meltemi and although open to the NW it is a
suitable spot for overnight anchoring in settled weather. The approach clear of any dangers
until the rocky shoreline. Anchor in 4-6m in sand where you will find good holding. The
beach has a seasonal taverna and a pleasant stream which used to power a now-ruined mill.
39
32) AK SOZON & DORANCARA
39°11'.9N 023°26'.5E
10
40
10 5

5 Dorancara
Schism
2
Ak Sozan
10
200 metres
Two small ball-shaped rocks breaking the water surface on the island’s north side identify Ak
Sozan and to the east lies The Dorancara which looks like a collapsed sea cave forming a
huge chimney-shaped ravine above a tiny cove. In a monent of exploration I reversed a yacht
into this tiny space, tied off to the rocks and went for a snorkel around the area.
Only approach in a smooth sea with boat hooks
ready to push-off if need be. Exercise great
caution and reversing into position with only a
couple of feet of clearance on each side. Keep
the yacht going astern and drift gently into
position. It’s a dangerous manoeuvre because
of the danger of rock-fall and shouldn’t be
attempted unless your boat handling skills are
up-to-scratch.
40
33) THE KASTRO
39°12.'6N 023°27'.9E
THE Kastronisia
KASTRO

6
rock!
8
local knowledge
The
Kastro
10
10
Taverna
100 metres
Vrak Kastronisia is located at Skiathos Island’s northern cape extending from the Kastro. A
sail along the coast below the medieval fortified cliff-top village gives a good idea what any
invading pirates were up against. In the past Kastronisia was porobably one islet but now two
rocky islets extend north of the Kastro and can take a yacht between them to get a view of the
impressive clifftop fortifications. Deeper water is found between the Skiathos headland and
the first islet
You must exercise caution as there is a
dangerous rock just beneath surface of water
due west of the Kastro in position: 39°
12.661'N 23° 27.511'E. Waves can usually be
seen breaking on the rock which is easily
avoided once its location is determined.
In flat calm conditions you can drop someone
on it giving the impression they can walk on
water.
You can sail through the gaps in the islets but
you must be certain that another vessel isn’t coming the other way. Depth between the
mainland and Kastronisia is around 6-7m and between Kastronisia and the northernmost islet
it’s shallower at around 4m. On every visit I’ve been rewarded with falcons hovering on the
islet up-draughts. There are some nice rock formations below the Kastro and a small sea cave
extends through the end of the peninsula. Even when the wind is blowing you can get some
temporary shelter behind the islets to view the Kastro's towering ramparts.
41
34) LALARIA BEACH
Lalaria Beach is famed for its smooth white pebbles, turquoise water and spectacular rock
arches but only accessible from the sea. Be cautious when approaching due to underwater
marble slabs. The beach is open to the full force of northerly winds and like many other sites
on the island’s northern coast is good in settled conditions.
Approach the beach with caution as depths are around 4-5m and generally shallow unto 50m
offshore. Close to shore there are large rocks below sea level which could be dangerous as
positions are thought to change with stormy weather. The best approach for a yacht is to the
NW part of the beach anchoring before the rocks. The sea arch at the end of beach is called
Trypia Petra — The Pierced Rock.
42
35) FONISSAS CAVE
Fonissas Cave (39° 12.187'N 23° 29.102'E) is full of stalactites and is where three survivors
from the sunk Greek submarine Katsonis apparently hid from Nazi search parties in 1943.
Another 15 submariners were picked up by the German sub-hunter and 32 souls perished.
The courage of the submariners; and the brave islanders who hid the survivors, is
commemorated annually on the closest Sunday to 14th September when the Hellenic Navy
sends a submarine to Skiathos to attend the ceremony.
Katsonis had landed secret agents on the coast of Euboea and while running on the surface
patrolling off Nicaria it spotted a troop transport and attacked. But an accompanying escort
scored a direct hit disabling the Katsonis which was then sunk by ramming. Amazingly the
three survivors swam for 9 hours to reach Skiathos and were smuggled back to their Egyptian
wartime base at Alexandria. They rejoined the Royal Hellenic Navy which suffered very
heavy losses in WWII as did the Greek Merchant Marine. The name of the Katsonis and
courage of her crew lives on with the third submarine to bear the name of Greek naval hero
Lambros Katsonis currently in service.
43
36) LEHOUNI BAY
Lehouni Bay is a small cove on the NE coast of Skiathos. It is surrounded by a steep
shoreline with a small pebble beach at its head. It is a nice place to visit but open to the full
force of prevailing winds.
The locals call this bay Nikotsara after the Independence revolutionary Niko Tsara who was
buried here. He was shot at aged 36 and was buried above the bay. Rumour has it he was
buried with his sword and ‘a lot of gold’ leading to many unsuccessful attempts to locate
the grave. In WWII Allied soldiers took refuge in Evangelistria Monastery and were then
led along secret paths to the beach and waiting boats which spirited them away to Turkey
and Egypt to rejoin their regiments.
44
37) XANEMOS BEACH
Xanemos is one of the island’s unofficial nudist beaches located at the northern end of the
airport runway and open to the full force of the meltemi when it blows. The approach is clear
of dangers but there are rocks extending 180m around the coastline to the north of the bay. It
is not a recommended anchorage except in very light conditions. The wide, flat beach is a
mixture of shingle and sand, easily accessible from Skiathos by road and boasts a seasonal
taverna.
An Athenian Decree of 480BC mentions two polis (settlements) on the island: Skiathos and
PalaioOld Skiathos with the latter’s location being lost down the centuries. However the hill
to the east of Xanemos Beach is thought to have been a fortress or small settlement during
1000-700BC and proto-geometric pottery places it around the time of Ancient Greece. It’s
believed Palaioskiathos residents moved to the NE of the island in 400BC possibly to
escape pirate attack. The proposed major excavations to expand Skiathos Airport, which
will destroy Xanemos Beach, may also obliterate traces of the old settlement. Alternatively,
the work might actually reveal important archaeology and unravel some island mysteries.
45
SKIATHOS HISTORY
Skiathos appears to have been settled by Pelasgians in Ancient Times followed by the
Mycenaean (Minoans from Crete); then the Thessalians and later the Chalcidians from
nearby Evia. They all recognised the strategic importance of the sheltered waters of
Skiathos Bay forming an ideal naval base. Skiathos Town grew and prospered with the new
settlers encircling it with solid rock walls for security.
After the Persians were defeated and retreated from Greece, Skiathos joined the First
Athenian Alliance in 478 BC but was occupied by Sparta during the Peloponnesian Civil
War although eventually liberated by Athenian forces. An autonomous Skiathos joined the
Second Athenian Alliance in 378 BC and enjoyed a long period of economic growth before
coming under Macedonian protection. It was subsumed into Alexander the Great’s Empire
and when that broke-up the island faced successive waves of invasion by Mithridates,
Attalos, Rhodians, Romans, Philip III and Demetrios before becoming a pirate lair. Stung
by the pirate activity and attack on their ships the Romans retook the island in 146BC.
Skiathos was gifted to Athenian control by Marc Anthony in 42BC as a thank-you gesture
for their assistance and eventually it again regained its independence. When the Roman
Empire split in two, the Sporades Islands were transferred to the eastern Byzantine Empire
which lasted until 1207 when it was seized by Frankish Knights. By that time the islands
were impoverished and the Franks sold them to the Venetian Ghizzi family who turned
Skiathos into a pirate base which preyed on Pelion and the Island of Evia until the
Byzantine Fleet sailed against them in 1276.
Byzantine rule limped on until Constantinople fell to the Ottoman Turks in 1453 with the
declining years of the Byzantine Empire witnessing a resurgence in pirate activity which
impoverished Skiathos and surrounding islands, forceing them to seek Venetian Protection.
The long-suffering Skiathians were eventually forced to abandon their fortified settlement
above Skiathos Bay and built the Kastro fortress on the island’s northern coast as their new
capital. This was unable to resist Turkish Admiral Barbarossa, the notorious ex-pirate, who
stormed the Kastro and ousted the Venetians in 1538.
Skiathos slowly won some autonomy under the Turks but the island joined in the 1821
Independence Uprising and not only expelled the Ottomans but repulsed a Turkish counter-
attack two years later. Greek Independence finally came in 1829 and the Kastro defenders
left their cliff-top eyrie and built Skiathos Town in its present position. The ending of the
Greek Turkish Wars saw forced exchanges of Greek and Turkish minorities. Many Greeks
from Asia Minor were settled on the Greek Mainland and Islands with a significant
proportion of today’s population has its roots in that diaspora.
WWII saw numerous Allied soldiers cut-off by the German advance and many were
smuggled to Skiathos and hidden until they could be taken on fishing boats towards Turkey
and Egypt. Local woman Kaliarina hid 15 New Zealanders in the ruins of the Kastro but
they were all captured and sent to an Italian POW camp but, thankfully, Kaliarina survived
the war. Skiathos Town Hall has a letter from British commander General Freyburg
thanking the islanders for their help and saluting their courage. The islanders paid dearly for
their resistance as the retreating Germans burnt Skiathos Town in August 1944 and other
buildings in Koukounaries Bay.
The final invasion of Skiathos began in the 1960s and grew with the first holiday charter
flights in the 1980s and unlike all previous invasions the Tourist one was friendly, welcome
and rewarding for the islanders.
46
47
FIRST GREEK REVOLUTIONARY FLAG
A must-do visit is the Evangelistra Monastery which is less than 5Km from Skiathos Town
and which bears a special place in Greek hearts for its part in the Freedom Fight. A group of
monks led by Father Nifon left Mount Athos religious community over a doctrinal dispute
and Gregorios Khadjistamatis, a Skiathos born monk who had inherited his father’s island
estate, persuaded Nifon to move to Skiathos and found Evangelistra using his inheritance.
Building began in 1794 and was completed in 1806 just as the pre-revolutionary fervour of
the Greek Independence struggle was reaching boiling-point and it was no surprise that the
monastery became inextricably linked with the struggle.
There, beneath the slopes of Karaflizanaka, the first Greek Independence Flag was designed
and woven. Its central white cross represented the faith of the Greek people in God and
their church with the cross set on a blue background which traditionally depicted the blue
skies and seas of Greece.
In September 1807 the flag was blessed and raised. Abbot Niphon swore-in the guerrilla
leaders: Kolokotronis, Andreas, Vlakhavas, Stathas, Nikotsaras, and the Skiathian-born
Dimitriadis who became known as: ‘Teacher of the Nation’ before the sacred flag. After the
Flag Raising and Oath of Freedom ceremony a great assembly was held in the monastery
and plans were hammered-out for the liberation of the Greek Nation.
There are lots of things to see at the Monastery and the museum is interesting and set in a
tranquil location which is just what you need after the hustle and bustle of Skiathos.
48
CHURCH & STATE FLAGS
History has left no clue over how the modern Greek Flag was designed but, as is usual in
Greece, there’s plenty of opinions accompanied by loud and animated discussions. Greeks
refer to their flag as the kianolefki or galanolefki The blue and white and most believe the
colours represent the Greek sky and sea coupled with clouds and waves although others
think it refers to traditional Greek blue and white clothing.
The white cross set in blue background symbolizes the Greek Orthodox Church recognising
it’s role in keeping Greek culture, language and religion alive during 400 years of Turkish
rule. Orthodox priests were amongst the leaders of the Greek Independence struggle and
played a major role in carrying information and sheltering freedom fighters not least
because they feared the Greek Orthodox religion would be replaced by the Muslim beliefs
of their Turkish oppressor.
The nine blue and white stripes are said to represent the number of letters in the Greek word
Eleftheria (freedom) or the nine syllables in Eleftheria i Thanatos (Freedom or Death) the
Greek battle cry against Ottoman oppression. Blue is a traditional protection colour for
warding-off evil and white signifies purity although some argue the two colours represent a
white-clothed Aphrodite emerging from the blue waves. Others believe the nine stripes
represent the Nine Muses. Interestingly there is no official shade of blue for the flag.
49
SKOPELOS ISLAND
Alonissos
Skiathos
Skop
elos
Peristera
Cha
Skopelos Alonissos Channel
nn
Adhelfi
el
Skopelos Island harbours & anchorages
Skopelos is the second largest of the Sporades island group at 11 NM long by 4 NM wide
with a 32 NM coastline and with a rugged terrain and sheer cliffs fringing most of the
coastline although the southern and western shores have a mixture of more gently sloping
tree-clad hillsides with a patchwork of scenic bays, quiet coves and good beaches. Skopelos
is criss-crossed with roads and tracks and you can get a jeep to the highest peaks of Mount
Delfi (Dolphin) to the west (681m) and to the south is Mount Palouki(546m) with the
Evangelistria Monastery on its slopes providing magnificent views over the Aegean and
Skopelos Bay.
The main population centre is Skopelos Town
which is more laid back than Skiathos. Sandy
beaches with resort-type facilities may be
comparatively sparse but there are loads of
scenic locations and the island is popular with
family holidaymakers. Most beaches can be
found along the sheltered southern and
western coasts between Staflylos and Loutraki
but, compared to Skiathos, tourism is a low-
key affair.
The interior is dotted with productive farms and agriculture still forms an important part of
the island economy with a fertile countryside lush with orchards. In ancient times the island
vineyards made Skopelos famous for its wines after Cretan king Staphylos c1600BC. The
son of wine god Dionysus and Ariadne, brought viniculture and wine making to the island.
The King’s brother was one of Jason’s legendary Argonauts who voyaged in search of the
Golden Fleece.
50
A Skopelos tomb excavated in 1936 held a number of important finds, thought to be
associated with King Staphylos, which are now displayed in the Archaeological Museums
at Volos and Athens. Skopelos has been settled and colonised since ancient times with
neolithic Pirate Graves carved into the hillside at Sedoukia although archaelological sites
are hard to find.
The island was used to house dissident Byzantines who were exiled to far-away Skopelos to
be denied the pleasures and political intrigues of Constantinople. In 1538 The Turkish
pirate Barbarossa slaughtered virtually the entire island population with only a few escaping
the bloody carnage to the relative safety of Evia’s northern shores. In recent times the
Hollywood film Mamma Mia created an upsurge in visitors and who can blame them after
they’ve seen the panoramic scenery in the film.
51
21
20 Skopelos
1
Island
3
19 14
4 18 17
2
5 16
6 15
7
13
9 10 8
11 12
1) Loutraki Harbour | 2) Dhasia & Islets | 3) Elios Harbour | 4) Kastani Beach | 5) Milia Beach | 6) Andrine’s Coves | 7)
Panormous Bay | 8) Limnonari Bay | 9) Agnondas Bay | 10) Amarandos Cove | 11) Dragon’s Schism | 12) Stafylos Bay | 13)
Velanio Beach | 14) Ag Georgios & Mikra Islands | 15) Skopelos Town Beach | 16) Skopelos Harbour | 17) Vr Ira Islet | 18)
Tripiti Cave | 19) Glisteri Bay | 20) Mamma Mia Church | 21) Ak Gourouni Rocks
52
1) LOUTRAKI HARBOUR
Flisvos Minimarket 200 metres
LOUTRAKI
<1 HARBOUR

1 <1 <1 Information
2 2
5 4
4
2 4
Ferry
6
5 <1
6
5 5 2 <1
10
5 2
Fl.R3s 4
7
10 3
Fl.G3s
39°9'.7N 023°36'.8E 11 4
Loutraki, the nearest port to Skiathos, lies on the NW coast of Skopelos with the conspicuous
hill-town of Glossa sitting high above the harbour whose entrance is between two marked
breakwaters. SW winds create swell which enters the port and can be a nuisance although
there’s good protection from prevailing winds. Smaller craft must stand clear when ferries are
using the port. The best berthing can be found on the southern side of the main pontoon
where depths range from 5m at its head to 1.8m at the shore-end.
I have berthed a yacht with 2.2m draught just past the white sign on the pontoon. Mooring
chains drop from the pontoon and can interfere with keels towards the shallow end. The north
side of the pontoon provides good holding but lay as much anchor chain as possible in the
limited space available. it’s shallower here but depth is regular until an underwater shelf is
reached at just under 2m. There’s also some light ground chain associated with permanent
small-craft moorings but it can be lifted clear on a windlass.
The smaller pontoon on the north shore is the old Skiathos charter pontoon with some deep
berths available near its head and 1.8m draught yachts can be berthed stern-to on the first two
pontoon sections. There’s plenty of room to free-anchor south of the main pontoon but leave
sufficient room for manoeuvering ferries. The ferry quay is completely out-of-bounds for
smaller vessels and the Port Police actively enforces the rule. Loutraki gets busy with flotilla
yachts on Saturdays after yacht turnarounds on Skiathos. Fishing boats and larger yachts tend
to use the main quay but you might find a berth here when it’s quiet.
Ashore there’s a reasonably well-stocked mini market, a good bakery as well as several
tavernas and cafe bars. In Glossa, you will find an ATM, PO and other facilities associated
with a small town. A taxi rank, bus stop at the head of the quay, scooter and car hire facilities
are available. A charge is made for the water with keys at the Petrino Cafe which has
customer toilets and is an excellent venue for morning coffee and breakfast.
The best Taverna in town is Flisvos where Yannis the proprietor will welcome you and serve-
53
up a excellent choice of traditional Greek and seafood dishes. A good sand and shingle beach
with clear water can be found on the seaward side of the main breakwater and also some
smaller swimming areas south of the port.
54
2) DHASIA & ISLETS
Loutraki 2 miles
DHASIA &
ISLETS
Paximado

Elios
Pleuro
Kasidha
Dhasia
Strongilo
Panormous
39°6'.4N 023°36'.9E
This group of five rocky islands and islets off the west coast of Skopelos Island present no
daylight navigational danger but could be problematic at night.
All the islets are within the 120m depth contour and the largest Dhasia (39° 6.961'N 23°
38.231'E) is distinctive but the others are low-lying so you must proceed with caution.
Nisos Paximado (39° 8.722'N 23° 35.480'E) is the first islet you encounter travelling south
from Loutraki.
Strongilo (39° 6.802'N 23° 37.531'E) has a reef extending from its southern extremities and
you should allow 200m clearance.
Kasidha (39° 7.753'N 23° 36.839'E) has a small rock close-in on its north shore.
You can avoid these islands without any
problems. Some charts indicate a shoal water
patch 1.5nm from Loutraki on a direct line
towards Nisos Repi but most correctly indicate
it as a shoal at 10m depth. Older charts
marking it as a rock-awash are incorrect and a
local fisherman suggested it probably subsided
during one of the earthquakes which sounds
reasonable.
There’s another patch of shoal water (39° 8.431'N 23° 36.939'E) 0.45nm NW of Pleuro Islet.
An underwater extension of the headland coming from Ak Armenopetro — at 10m depth —
presents no hazard to small craft navigation at 10m depth. On Dhasia Island’s NE tip a small
rectangular sea cave looks worthy of a closer look but I’ve never actually had a chance to
investigate it.
55
56
3) ELIOS HARBOUR
200 metres Bakery
taverna
kiosk

<1 2
2 2
2 4 1
ELIOS
5 HARBOUR
Fl.3G
3 Fl.3R
2 <1
6
39°8'.2N 023°38'.5E
Elios is a small village on the west coast of Skopelos Island just south of Loutraki and north
of Panormous Bay. It has an upgraded harbour — new concrete quays, shore power and
water taps. It offers good protection from the prevailing meltemi but can become untenable in
strong southerlies.
The approach is straightforward with
navigation lights on the breakwater ends but
you should avoid sailing along the coast where
depths, north and south of the harbour entrance
can be relatively shallow. I have manoeuvred
all round the harbour in a 2.2m draught yacht.
When quiet it’s acceptable to go alongside but
when busy go stern-to. If there’s no space
against the harbour quay then the best
anchorage is off the end of the southern breakwater with a shoreline. The harbour gets severe
down-gusts from the cauldron of hills to the east. A position on the southern breakwater
ensures you will be blown clear during gusts. If you are are stern-to on the northern mole,
you will need to use a kedge anchor as the harbour mouth has been dredged and holding can
be patchy.
The old towns of Alo and Kato Klima were destroyed in the 1965 earthquake and villagers
were forced to move to Elios which means mercy. It is is linked to the island patron Saint
Reginus who delivered his followers from a fearsome local dragon. There’s some good
tavernas overlooking the harbour, a mini-market, kiosk and excellent bakery. You will find
beaches are a mixture of sand and shingle and the beach showers are excellent.
4) KASTANI BEACH
Kastani Beach is sand and shingle and drops quite steeply into the sea. The best shelter from
prevailing wind is as close to the northern end of the beach as possible. A taverna is
sometimes located on the beach which, with Dhasia Island as a backdrop, was used for one of
the beach-bar dancing scenes in the Hollywood film Mama Mia.
5) MILIA BEACH
57
Milia Beach is considered by many to be the best on Skopelos with its three lovely stretches
of tree-lined sand and pebble strands. Like many of the beaches around the island it has
crystal-clear waters and is ideal for swimming. A large taverna in the central beach and other
beach bars offer water sports. When the main beach is crowded the smaller beach to the north
is often much quieter.
58
6) ANDRINE’S COVES
You will find Andrines Coves on the northern headland entrance to Panormous Bay and the
coves have small, secluded beaches with shade provided by pine trees. In the past the coves
were only accessible by foot or boat and were generally quiet but lots of recent shore
development has spoiled them with increased landward access.
Legend tells how the the female Saracen pirate captain Andrines jumped off the cliffs after
sending her motley crew into a settlement at Panormous to rob people of their gold. The
villagers were ready and learning her pirate crew had been wiped-out in the raid Andrines
decided she nothing left to live for and jumped to her death. As with all good pirate stories
the legend and folklore tell of hidden gold somewhere in Panormous. Unfortunately, I
haven’t found the map yet, but I’m still looking.
59
7) PANORMOS BAY
s
st
gu
3
3 3
4
Andrines Coves
10
12
PANORMOUS BAY
Taverna
38
10
20 5
foul
8
14
10
5
600 metres
39°6'.5N 023°39'.2E
Panormos Bay is a useful anchorage near Ak Myti the, SW cape of Skopelos Island, and is
located to the SE of the conspicuous tree-covered and conical Dhasia Island. From the SW
the bay approach is straightforward through deep water but lacks navigational lights. Care
must be taken approaching from a NW direction as a small reef extends from the south of the
rocky Stongilo Islet situated just 1 NM west of the Panormos Bay entrance.
Good all-round shelter exists in the southern Blo Bay inlet but strong winds can gust down
from the NE over the mountain tops when the meltemi blows hard. The main bay is too deep
for small-vessel anchoring although you can anchor close to the bay’s north shore near the
buoyed-off swim area. However the location is open to westerly winds and swell which can
be annoying.
Yachts normally anchor in the smaller Blo Bay
inlet which offers shelter but the lack of space
makes it common practice to take a line ashore
on the inlet’s western side. Some skippers
claim Panormos Bay as an all weather
anchorage but I’ve spent sleepless nights there
when hit by sudden meltemi and squalls over
the mountain from the NE. The best place to
anchor in the southern inlet is at the southern
end pointing the vessel in a northerly direction with as much chain out as possible.
The holding isn’t the best with a rocky ridge in the middle of the inlet and I’ve seen anchors
drag when the wind picks up. If you have to anchor a yacht pointing in an easterly direction
then run a 2nd anchor or a least a bow spring back to the rocks and be ready to power off if
gusts strike. If anchored in the Blo Inlet use a dinghy to reach the village tavernas or tie your
dinghy to the small jetty on the eastern shore, walk along a short path to the road then follow
this to the village.
Panormos Bay, its ancient city and natural harbour were immortalised by Michael Carroll in
his book Gates of the Wind which has rich historical descriptions of the region and its
people and the author's sailing around the Greek island and the eventual building of his
60
home on Skopelos. The book takes you back in time to the 1960s before tourism but it’s
amazing how much remains and it is worth retracing the author’s steps.
61
8) LIMNONARI COVE
2
3

4
10
LIMONARI BAY
15
200 metres
39°5'.1N 023°41'.8E
Limnonari is a large cove 0.5 NM west of Agnondas with a popular beach where you can
free-anchor outside the swimming area in 6-7m on sand. The best shelter is found beneath the
rocks in the NW corner of the cove which gives protection from strong meltemi winds and
isn’t as badly affected by swell as Stafylos can be. You can sit-out a northerly gale here with
no worries as the anchorage offers adequate shelter in strong northerlies. Film scenes from
Mama Mia were shot nearby and the beach was a popular film crew hangout with a pool-bar
ashore and excellent fish taverna.
62
9) AGNONDAS HARBOUR
150 metres
2
5 5
5 2
7
Fl.R2s
20 5
20 2
6
8 4 <1
20 7 6 Slip
6
5
30 nt
ne
nu
mo
AGNONDAS
Fl.G2s
HARBOUR
39°4.'9N 023°42'.4E
Agnondas is a bay located on the south coast of Skopelos Island which receives shelter from
the prevailing meltemi winds and provides an alternative port when the north-facing Skopelos
Harbour is untenable due to inclement weather conditions. Be aware of shoal and shallow
water when approaching along the coast from the south but otherwise the approach is
straightforward with the harbour entrance marked by two lights.
A concrete quay extends the length of the cove’s southern side with potential to provide
many deep-water berths. Quay marking indicates the space reserved at the seaward end for
larger ships and ferry traffic. Tie-up alongside the quay preferably with bows pointing
seaward despite some pilots suggesting stern-to as a tsunami-like swell is created by passing
ships which gets focused approaching the inlet with potential to cause damage. Use long bow
and stern lines with properly adjusted springs and utilise every fender to avoid damage after
the Skiathos-Skopelos ferry has passed by.
There is limited anchoring room in the bay but space exists west of the small boat moorings
in 3-6m off the bay’s rocky north shore where the bottom is a mixture of rock, sand and
weed. A small, sandy beach sits at the head of the inlet with crystal-clear water and other
tranquil, pebbly beaches can be found along the forest road winding its way south to
Amarandos Point. Water on the quay, fuel by tanker, nearby minimarket and several tavernas
with frequent bus services to Skopelos Town.
The victory of local hero Agnon in an
Olympic running race in 569BC is
commemorated by a plaque on the quayside
and the port was later re-named in his honour
by his fellow citizens.
63
10) AMARANDOS COVES
10 100 metres
5
3
Three Tree

Cove
3 AMARANDOS COVE
Ak Amarandos
5 7
10
39°4.'4N 023°42'.3E
There are several small, secluded coves at Amarandos with pine trees lining the shore,
offering privacy and shade. Three Tree Cove was another lovely spot used as a location for
the Hollywood film Mama Mia. The area is relatively well-sheltered from meltemi and it is
possible to overnight anchor in the area in calm weather. Use caution sailing north along the
coast from here towards Agnondas as there’s shoals and shallow water close inshore.
64
11) DRAGON’S SCHISM
100 metres
Ak VELONA &
DRAGON'S SCHISM
2
10 10
Dragons Schism
6
18 40
10 42
25
Ak Velona
39°4'.2N 023°43'.7E
The Dragon’s Schism lies 200m east of Ak

Velona the most southerly cape on Skopelos
Island. Folklore claims the Schism was formed
when the cliff opened-up and swallowed a
dragon trying to escape the loud sermons of an
overzealous priest. It’s rumoured that you can
still hear the trapped dragon snorting in its
watery tomb.
To get a good view of the Schism enter the inlet stern-first beneath an impressive
overhanging rock-pulpit feature high on the cliff-top. Towards the back of the inlet there are
some rocks just below the surface. They are easily avoided and there’s just enough room
inside to turn a 39ft yacht in its own length. Excellent snorkeling in-and-around the Schism
but settled conditions are needed to tie-off to the rocks and stay for a short spell.
65
12) STAFYLOS BAY

300 metres
ts
gus
Taverna
5 2
3
8 landing 5
platform
9 8 5
8
STAFYLOS
10 Tomb
10 BAY
17
16 Ak Stafylos
39°4'.9N 023°44'.8E
Stafylos is located on the south coast of Skopelos. The approach is straightforward and clear
of hazards until close inshore where there are some visible rocks on the west side of the open
bay. It’s ideal for a lunch or overnight stop in the right weather conditions.
The bay is well-protected from meltemi winds

when anchored close to shore. Some swell does
creep in and it can get uncomfortable and cause your anchor to drag in all but the calmest
weather conditions. Alternatively, anchor off the main beach and swimming area in 6-10m. A
flotilla favourite is to take a line ashore and anchor in 5m on the rocky western side of the
bay under the cliffs.
Stafylos is one of the island’s main beaches, being close to Skopelos with a beach taverna
usually playing loud tunes. The beach is sand and pebble with a craggy shoreline and cliffs
offering great snorkelling. A small footpath leads over the western end to Velanio Beach.
The beach is named after a Minoan Prince and a 1936 archaeological dig discovered a
Royal Minoan tomb and finds included a gold-plated sword handle and gold diadem
making Stafylos the most northern Minoan settlement yet discovered. The rocky limb
jutting seawards is reputed to house the tomb of Cretan general Stafylos supposedly
between Stafylos and Velanio Beaches but despite several attempts I have never managed
to locate the exact position of the tomb. Tradition demanded that Cretan Royals were buried
facing seawards towards their homeland of Crete.
13) VELANIO BEACH
The beach used to be a favourite with nudists but they have been displaced towards the
66
eastern end round a rocky outcrop with the main area now used by non-naturists. Velanio is
bigger than Stafylos Beach and as the season progresses it seems to become more popular
and more sandy the further you travel along the beach. The water is crystal-clear and an ideal
swimming stop with a seasonal cantina and sunbeds at one end.
Some say the beach take its name from Roman baths that were reputed to exist but other say
the name means acorn. A natural spring at one end of the beach might lend credence to the
Roman Baths theory but you’ll need to circumnavigate the nudists to access it.
67
14) GEORGIOS & MIKRO ISLANDS
Ag GEORGIOS &
MIKRO ISLANDS 30 ALONISSOS
45

90
Mikro
5
7 Ak Teleio
10 10 50 Fl(3)13s 10
Ag Georgios
65
80
90
SKOPELOS Ak Kioutro
800 metres
39°7'.5N 023°48'.0E
Ag Georgios and Mikro Islands are located between Skopelos and Alonissos. There is safe
water all around the islands and it is possible to pass between them which is always my
preferred route when heading from Skopelos Town towards the south coast of Alonissos.
The water shallows to 12m between the islands but as long as you stay in the middle of the
channel there is no danger. There is shallow water off the western tip of Ag Georgios island
and on the southern shore of Mikro but I’ve never had any problems sailing close to the
islands. If you are a couple miles south of N. Mikro and making passage between the south
coasts of Skopelos and Alonissos have a periodic look at Nisis Mikro and you will see the
silhouette of the island changing form to look like an enormous deep-sea angler fish taking a
bite at the sky.
68
15) SKOPELOS TOWN BEACH
The town has a long, sand and shingle beach which may look inviting but swimming is not
advisable in the area because of pollution from the harbour and wind-blown flotsam and
jetsam. Sewage pipes from the town once ran into the harbour but things have improved and
the pipes now extend seaward, however fears exist that the effluent gets back into the bay
through wind and current action.
69
16) SKOPELOS HARBOUR
39°7'.4N 023°44'.2E
16
16
SKOPELOS 8
HARBOUR
3
3 3 7
7
4

2
4 6 5
3 6 Fl.G2s
6 5
1 6 5
5 8
2 5
6
7 Fl.R2s 4
rry
2 Fe
3
5
2
2
<1
<1
supermarkets
200 metres
Skopelos Town is built around a sizeable harbour which has been extended over the years. I
have never had any major problems getting space in the harbour but the new berth marking
system does not utilise the available space terribly well.
Skopelos Bay is open to the north and receives the full force of the meltemi and swell but
itremains one of the best bolt- holes in the area and an excellent harbour to head for when bad
weather is expected from any direction. Excellent protection is offered by the breakwater
although swell can work in to the harbour area and I have witnessed many warps snatch and
break in the resultant surge.
Yachts can go stern-to or alongside the main breakwater with depths ranging from 3m near
the promenade to 8m at the breakwater end which has a green light at its head. The very end
70
of the breakwater is reserved for the Daliana Ferry. There’s plenty of rings and bollards for
attachment but chaffing can occur and it’s advisable to double up warps when swell is
entering the harbour.
The best holding is found towards the NW
corner close to the old pier. There are two dog-
legs in the main breakwater and holding
doesn’t seem to be as good in these areas
probably due to dredging works. A heavy
ground chain has been reported along the main
breakwater but in over 200 anchoring
manoeuvres I’ve never caught it and believe it
may have been lifted. The large quay in the
south of the harbour is reserved for ferries and
ships with the NW corner of the harbour
reserved for small fishing boats.
Berth alongside the old quay with depths varying between 5-6m at its head to 3m near the
promenade. From the old quay to the ferry terminal in the harbour’s SW corner is reserved
for fishing boats and charter vessels but you can sometimes find a berth out of high season.
Skopelos is an idyllic Aegean island town with white buildings, hugging the hillside and
topped with local blue slate and red tile roofs. The main promenade has plenty of tavernas
and cafes sheltered by lots of trees.
The harbour is the heart of the town and retains its original character having escaped
earthquake and war damage. With a maze of cobbled streets snaking through white cottages
with pretty balconies, painted shuttering and flower baskets hanging everywhere the town is
popular with locals and holidaymakers and a fantastic place for exploration. Wander up the
cobbled streets for stunning views over the bay and rooftops.
All the facilities of a medium-sized town can be found ashore. Costa, the water man, can
arrange for engineers etc. Supermarkets, bakeries, Post Office, water, gas, ice, taxis and
buses. If the weather takes a turn for the worse, Skopelos is an excellent place to be
stormbound with different activities and facilities and a good base to visit island locations.
71
17) VRAK IRA ISLET
5 15
Vr IRA
SKOPELOS
loc
8
al
kn
ow
led
ge
5 6 10
150 metres
39°8'.1N 023°43'.7E
Vrak Ira is a rocky islet near the extremity of Ak Tripiti approximately 0.8nm NNE of
Skopelos Breakwater’s eastern end. It is possible to sail a yacht between the islets and rocks
forming the shoreline. When approaching the gap stay a little closer to the islet as the water
looks deeper. I have sailed through this gap on many occasion and always always found 7-
10m water depth.
72
18) TRIPITI CAVE
15 18
39°7'.6N 023°47'.0'E
TRIPITI CAVE
12 15
10
20
4
6
3
100 metres Cave
Tripiti Cave is located under the cliffs between Cape Tripiti and Glisteri Bay. A yacht can be
manoeuvred astern into the mouth of the cave with the mast just metres away from the
massive, overhanging cliffs. Approach the cave from the north and reverse toward it but look
out for the two large boulders 50m outside the cave which are around 2.5-3m below the
surface. You can reverse the stern of the yacht into the cave as far as is safe and you dare. Pay
attention to the mast and any possible ferry swell.
Understand that you are below a massive cliff
with material that has the potential to fall
without warning and which could cause fatal
injury, severe damage or sink your yacht. If
your mast hits the cave roof it may knock loose
material down. In the same cliffy bay , just
north of the cave there’s a spur of rock where it
is possible to drop passengers off for that
Cliffhanger photograph. The whole area is
geologically very impressive although perhaps
a little unstable. It has many suitable spots for
big cliff dives for those with nerve, experience
and expertise.
73
19) GLISTERI BAY
39°8'.8N 023°42'.9E
10
20
8
25

6
GLISTERI
BEACH 20
10
9
GLISTERI BAY 15
25
200 metres Tripiti Cave
Ormos Glisteri is a lovely spot with pebble

beach and taverna but it is open to meltemi
winds and swell although does offer some
shelter in light winds. Glisteri was used for
many scenes in the Hollywood film Mama Mia
and is the site of the cliff-jumping scenes. In
the film Meryl Streep’s house Villa Donna was
meant to be located in the hills above Glisteri
but unfortunately it doesn’t actually exist in
real life. The fact it was only a temporary set built for the film disappoints a lot of visitors on
the Mamma Mia Trail.
74
20) MAMMA MIA CHURCH
39°10'.4N 023°39'.2E
5 30
Ag IOANNIS 25
Mamma Mia Church
10
5 30
15
200 metres
Ag Ioannis Kastri is a beautiful church perched on top of a rocky peninsula in northern

Skopelos and became world-famous as the church used in the Meryl Streep wedding scene
during the filming of Mama Mia. It is located 100ft high on a pinnacle of rock. A path of
110 narrow steps leads to the church and courtyard at the summit. It’s name means St
John’s Castle which means it must have been fortified in the past to protect the church
treasures from pirate raids.
Anchor in the bay to the south of the church
avoiding some large underwater boulders
which are mostly well beneath keel depth and
easily avoided. There are rocky patches but
plenty of sand where you can drop anchor. I
wonder looking at the Mamma Mia rock from
the beach if you’ll see the strong resemblace
to a supine lioness.
The anchorage is untenable if swell is running
and someone should always stay on board for
anchor watch. If the weather is too rough a
good alternative is berthing in Loutraki or Skopelos and travelling to the church by taxi.
75
21) AK GOUROUNI ROCKS
Ak Gourouni is located on the NW cape of Skopelos and an extreme manoeuvre can be made
passing between the rocks at the headland. The first attempt was made reversing the yacht
through from south to north and the next attempt was made travelling south under a little
Genoa in slight seas. On both occasions I measured at least 4m depth. There is deeper water
close to the rocks on the northern side with some underwater boulders close to the shore on
the southern side.
76
ISLAND OF ALONNISOS
Pe
lag
os
Ch Kira Panayia
an
ne
l
Likorema
os
iss
on
Al
Peristera
Adhelfi
Skopelos
Gaidhairos Skantzoura
© Delphinus Publishing Ltd Korakas
Alonnisos Island harbours & anchorages

Alonissos Island is 11nm long by 3nm wide with a 32nm coastline. It’s the least developed
of the main islands and has largely escaped the effects of large scale package-holiday
tourism. It’s a green and fertile island and though it might not be blessed with many sandy
beaches it has some of the cleanest water in the Sporades. Like the other islands in the
group the northern coastline feels the full effect of the prevailing meltemi winds with most
of the tourist development found on the more sheltered SE coastline.
The island has been known by many names: Ilkos, Evonimos, Liodromia and Hilodromia
and has been settled for at least 9000 years with Neolithic fishing hooks and cutting tools
made from obsidian found.
Mythology relates that giants once lived on Alonissos and examination of large human
skeletons discovered in an island tomb indicates they weren;t from the Neanderthal Period
with scientists theorising they are remains of the mysterious Pelasgian race.
They apparently colonised widely, became well-established and were described in Homer’s
Iliad & Odyssey but seemingly vanished leaving little trace of their existance. Pelasgian
was one of the names used by ancient writers describe people existing before the Hellenes
in mainland Greece and the Aegean until gradually assimilated by the Hellenes who
followed them.
On one occasion Saracen pirates had successfully launched an attack on Thessaloniki and
77
captured men and women to be sold into a lifetime of slavery. Sailing back though the
Aegean they passed the Sporades Islands and anchored for a while off Alonissos and the
story is told of how their heartrending screams could be heard from the prison ships.
78
ISLAND OF ALONNISOS
21
20
19
22
18
17
16
15
Alonissos
23
14
Island
24
25
12 13
26
11
9 10
2 8
3 7 6
1 4
5
1) Mourtia Bay | 2) Mikro Mourtia Cove | 3) Megali Mourtia Bay | 4) Vithisma Beach | 5) Marpoenda Beach | 6) Patatiri
Beach | 7) Patatiri Harbour | 8) Rousoumi Gialos Bay | 9) Votsi Bay | 10) Milia Bay | 11) Kokkinokastro | 12) Tzortzi Bay |
13) Lefto Gyalos Bay 14) Steni Vala Harbour | 15) Kalamakia Harbour | 16) Agia Dimitrios Beach | 17) Lalarias Caves | 18)
Palarias Cove | 19) Nes Moules Reef | 20) Firakos Bay | 21) Ag Gerakas | 22) Ammoni Rock | 23) Manolas Isle | 24) Megali
Ammos Bay | 25) Tsoukalia Beach | 26) Gialia and Vrisitsa Coves
79
1) MOURTIA BAY
Mikro Mourtia 600 metres

12 Megali Mourtia
5
Fl(3)12s 10
Ak Teleio 15 MOURTIA
40 3 BAY
5
70 50 5
13
70 30
Pedina
60 Ak Notos
39°8'.1N 023°50'.0E
20
Ormos Mourtia is a large bay composed of a few smaller beaches and coves suitable for
anchoring and the first anchorage encountered sailing NE from the south coast of Skopelos.
There’s some shelter from the strong prevailing winds in the area closer to the shore but a
convergence of winds in the centre of the main bay causes gusts to swirl around Ak Teleio
and Ak Notos.
80
2) MIKRO MOURTIA COVE
150 metres
MIKRO 1
MOURTIA

2
2 5
5 8
2
7 6
39°8'.4N 023°50'.2E
Mikro Mourtia is a lovely small cove with a shingle and stone beach and good snorkelling
among the rocks at the sides of the bay. Anchor in the middle of the bay in 4-5 metres or take
a line ashore to the rocks. The cove immediately to the west is also available for anchoring
although the head of the bay is shallow and space is tight so use a shoreline.
81
3) MEGALI MOURTIA BAY
39°8'.3N 023°50'.5E
MEGALOS

1 MOURTIA
3
jetty
5 1
9 2
7
5
14 8
150 metres
Megalos Mourtia is an open bay with a pebble

and stone beach and it’s a pleasant enough
location with some tavernas on the shore.
Welcome shelter from the sun is available
under the trees that back onto parts of the
beach and a small jetty extends out above some
shoal ground. It’s possible to go bow-to on this
jetty but when it’s used for day-tripper boats
you may get moved as they have priority. Note
that submarine cables run from a position marked on the beach just north of the jetty.
4) VITHISMA BEACH
Vithisma is an open-beach made up of dark
sand with shingle and it’s used a lot for
windsurfing and open to a northerly swell that
tends to move around Ak Teleio Headland.
This makes Vithisma unsuitable for anchoring
unless conditions are favourable and fairly
settled. Many people seem to believe it’s the
only sandy beach on the island and therefore
consider it the best although there are other
sandy beaches to be found.
82
5) MARPOENDA BEACH
5
10
MARPOENDA
4
15 1
5
7
6 12
old quay Pedina
10
5
4
10
100 metres
39°7'.8N 023°51'.1E
Marpoenda is one of the most popular beaches on Alonissos and testament to this is the
assortment of beach furniture and crowds of visitors that frequent and jam the beach in high
season. I wouldn’t anchor overnight here as the swell tends to creep-in but. It’s made-up of
coarse-sand and shingle with some excellent sunbathing rocks towards the cove mouth. You
can take a yacht around Nisos Pedina without too many problems but watch shoal water
extending from the cove’s northern shore.
83
6) PATATIRI BAY
Votsi
400 metres Votsi
Harbour
8
Rousoumi
10 13
Votsi
Bay 10 8
8 15 18
10
20 25
Patatiri 14
Rousoumi
8 Bay 17 50
10
3 45 50
32
8
20 PATATIRI
45
Patatiri 10
Harbour Fl.G1.5s BAY
35
Fl.R1.5s 25 55
15 20 50
8 10
39°8.'5N 023°52'.3E
Ormos Patatiri Bays are generally suitable for anchoring and afford good shelter from the
prevailing northerlies but swell tends to creep into them which makes the anchorages
uncomfortable at times. Patatiri is the main port on Alonissos and it gets busy at the height of
the season although nearby bays provide good alternatives when sailing and staying in the
area.
84
7) PATATIRI HARBOUR
Patatiri
11
2 3 5
4 3 14
5
3
9
5 6
7 20
ferry
10
2
moorings
4 Fl.G1.5s
11
15
5
2
PATATIRI Fl.R1.5s
HARBOUR 3 23
5
200 metres
39°8.'4N 023°52'.0E
The approach is clear of danger apart from the Nes Drakos Reef (39° 8.279'N 23° 52.209'E)
500m to the SE of the harbour entrance. Danger is easily avoided by staying 300m clear of
the headland it extends from. The harbour entrance is marked by navigation lights. Go stern-
to on the town quay in front of the ferry ticket office and hotel or against the quay on the
bay’s eastern side.
Free-anchor or use a shoreline in the SW corner away from small boat moorings. A large
ground-chain is reported to be running to some of the heavier moorings from the small rock
located in the middle of the beach. The harbour tends to have a bad reputation with
yachtsmen who get annoyed by the swell but, more often than not, it’s no more than an
inconvenience and the town retains enough character and facilities to warrant a visit.
The beach is narrow, with shingle and coarse sand leading to clean water and a harbour
enclosed on three sides by cliffs overgrown with vines and trees and all-in-all it’s a pretty
place to relax. The island was previously an important wine producing area and Patatiri
means wine press but an epidemic of Phylloxera destroyed the vines. The original hill town
was destroyed by the 1965 earthquake and the new harbour was built afterwards.
The military junta of the time forcefully squeezed remaining inhabitants out of the old town
to live beside the new harbour down below. The old town can be reached by walking, taxi
or bus and there’s an excellent folklore museum, run by Costa, which is worth a look.
Facilities ashore include: Water, ATM, WiFi, mini-market, bakery, gas, bus, taxi, PO and
Port Police.
85
86
8) ROUSOUMI GIALOS BAY
100 metres
quay
4
3
10
5
3
20
ROUSOUMI

BAY
5 25
39°8'.6N 023°52'.2E
Rousoumi Gialos Bay is located between Patatiri and Votsi Bays and is well-sheltered from
meltemi winds and a popular place with shingle and pebble beach which gets pretty busy.
Good anchor-holding in the middle of the bay in 5-7m on sand and weed or anchor behind
rocks at the bay’s southern end. If in luck you may get a space bow-to on the tiny fishing boat
quay at the bay’s NE end.
87
9) VOTSI BAY
200 metres
1
4 1

5
2
10 3
5
VOTSI
BAY 12 5
5
15
39°8.'8N 023°52'.3E
The tiny beach in Votsi is beautiful, backed by a steep cliff and well worth a photograph for
the album. The bay offers good shelter from prevailing winds but significant swell can
develop in strong southerlies and SE winds.
Attention must be paid approaching from an
easterly direction as there is a rock (39°
8.826'N 23° 52.489'E) lying 60m off the
eastern headland on this approach but
otherwise the approach is clear of danger.
There are two breakwaters at the bay entrance
with depths ranging from 2m near the shore to
8m at the seaward end of the eastern
breakwater. You can anchor with a line to the
inside of this breakwater. The smaller, western
breakwater depths range from 0.8m at the
shore to 3m at the seaward end. At the NW
corner of the bay there is a 50m long quay with depths ranging from 1.9m near the slip to
2.6m at the quay’s SE extremity. Further north, along the quay, the depth shallows to 1.5m
and mooring becomes impracticable. If space is available you may be able to go stern-to or
more commonly bow-to on the corner of the quay.
When using this bay I try to anchor on the it’s eastern side with a line tied to trees or rocks on
the shore or just west of the smaller breakwater in 4m. Throughout the bay the bottom has
good holding mostly on sand and weed. I haven’t attempted it but it might be possible to pass
inside the rock 100m off the headland although extreme caution must be exercised.
88
10) MILIA BAY
300 metres
3 pier
3 5
Chrysi Milia
pier 10
Milia Bay

5 15
12
4
Spartines 15 MILIA GIALOS
3
5 10
Ak Platsouka
39°9'.2N 023°53'.3E
Ormos Milia is a large bay on the SE coast of

Alonnisos which is open to easterlies and
southerlies but becomes more sheltered as the
wind backs round to westerlies. Milia Gialos
has the best shelter from meltemi winds.
Anchor in the NE corner and take a line ashore.
Spartines and Chrysi Milia are both sandy
beaches and tend to get fairly busy in high
season. Both shelve gently and you may have
to anchor quite far out use a dinghy to go ashore. The beaches are both in nice locations with
pines running down the cliffs to the beach and beach cantina for summer visitors. There are
two small private piers in the bays but I’m not sure on the mooring availability there although
they would be handy for dropping passengers off to gain access to the beaches.
89
11) KOKKINOKASTRO
39°9'.7N 023°54'.5E
250 metres Tzortzi Bay 10
Katarinas Vala
KOKKINOKASTRO
o
str
Ilkos oka
k kin
Ko

3 Ak
Pier 8
10
Chrysi Milia Bay
10 Kokkininisi
The red sandstone cliffs at Kokkinokastro are

conspicuous and easily identifiable. Anchoring
restrictions apply in the the bay with cement
blocks in position acting as a breakwater
resisting erosion. Make your approach from the
east leaving the islet of Kokkinonisi to port.
There are some rocks between Kokkinonisi and
the shore but the water may be deep enough to
manoeuvre a vessel through this gap. A reef
extends from the red sandstone cliff at Kokkinokastro and you must give 200m clearance.
There’s good holding in the bay in sand and weed. If the main anchorage is busy or
experiencing southerlies then Katerinas Vala on Kokkinokastro’s north side is a suitable
temporary anchorage. Kokkinokastro means red castle and it’s the site of the ancient city of
Ikos with evidence found of some of the oldest prehistoric Aegean habitation.
90
12) TZORTZI BAY
550 metres
5 10
2
Lefto Gyalas Bay
Ventzias 12
2
14
5 9 TZORTZI
10 18 BAY
25
5
Katarina's Vala
39°10'.1N 023°54'.7E
Ormos Tzortzi is north of Kokkinokastro and

provides reasonable shelter from meltemi
winds with good holding off the beaches in 4-
6m on sand and weed. Approach is
straightforward but you must take care to avoid
the rocks extending from the NE of
Kokkinokastro. The south of the bay also
offers moderate shelter from southerlies.
91
13) LEFTO GYALOS BAY
Lefto Gyalos is the bay immediately north of
Tzortzi Bay and offers some shelter from
meltemi winds. Anchor off the beach in 4-5m
on sand and weed. There’s a good taverna on
the white pebble beach and it’s a great place to
end the day if at anchor.
92
14) STENI VALA HARBOUR
30 metres
Ikarus Cafe
5
2
3
4
STENI 5
10
VALA 15
5
39°11'.4N 023°55'.6E
Steni Vala Bay offers good protection from all

winds except east and SE. The bay entrance
faces east and approach is straightforward from
all directions but there’s no navigation lights
and it may be hard to pick out at night. One
solution is to use a back bearing on the South
Peristera lighthouse until the lights of the
harbour become distinct. The bay’s north side
has a quay extending 200m towards the head of
the bay where it terminates in a small stone beach.
One berth near the quay-knuckle is used solely by a day-tripper ferry so you should keep
clear. Otherwise berth wherever you find a space. There’s a ballast slope in front of the quay
which can be a problem when mooring stern-to and it’s advisable to berth bow-to with kedge
anchor.
There are four berths in front of Icarus Cafe it’s possible to get yachts stern-to with mooring
plank fully extended. This little harbour can become very busy and you must accept other
vessels squeezing in or go 2nd line. If the quay is busy it’s possible to anchor with shoreline
onto the rocks along the bay’s north shore. The water is deeper here and you must make sure
to drop enough anchor chain. There’s some ground chain in the heart of the bay and towards
the south shore but it’s clearly visible when anchoring onto sand and rock as the water is
crystal-clear.
Steni Vala is a real magnet for visiting yachtsmen and a must-go place in the Sporades with a
charming little village and also happens to be a very pleasant place to sit in the cafe to catch-
up with other sailors and watch the goings on in the harbour. It’s also home to a monk seal
sanctuary which cares for injured and abandoned seals.
Highly recommended is the Ikarus Cafe where proprietor and friend Costa is always very
approachable and usually on-hand to help with anything required to make your stay on
Alonnisos highly memorable. Tasia and Xristina at The Steni Vala Taverna serve excellent
local produce and I highly recommend it for a fine evening meal. There are nice swimming
beaches just over the headlands. Enquire with Costa about water and hot showers, mini-
market, gas, repairs and WiFi. A bay just to the south of Steni Vala is suitable for anchoring
if you can’t find any space in the main bay.
93
94
15) KALAMAKIA HARBOUR
39°12.'0N 023°55'.8E
5
KALAMAKIA
2 HARBOUR
1

7
2
1 12
6
5
75 metres
Kalamakia is a small fishing harbour just north of Steni Vala with very shallow depths and
it’s only possible to go bow-to. Other pilots suggest the harbour is full of local boats but I
always find it very quiet when visiting. There isn’t much shelter from meltemi so it’s only
suitable in calm conditions. The breakwaters have navigation lights but they seldom seem to
work properly.
95
16) DIMITRIOS BEACH
100 metres 40
10
AG DIMITRIOS
BEACH
2 30

10
8 40
39°13'.1N 023°56'.7E
Ag Dimitrios is an alluvial stone and pebble

beach with both the north and south beaches
consisting of white pebbles. This is the last
beach bar and a handy stop before heading to
the outer islands. Anchor as close to shore as
possible as it drops steeply seawards. There’s
only moderate protection - a temporary
anchorage
96
17) LALARIAS BEACH
50 metres

cave
BLUE
CAVES
caves
Lalarias Beach
cave 39°14'.9N 023°58'.4E
Lalarias is a small rocky and pebble beach that can be used as a temporary anchorage in
settled weather. It’s a useful place to anchor if spending time in the area and visiting the
many caves along this part of the coastline. Approach is straightforward and has no hazards.
Anchor stern-to with a line ashore but have someone stand-by on the yacht if passengers want
to go swimming or are going into the caves by dinghy.
The Blue Cave is just south of Lalarias and it’s possible to manoeuvre a yacht so the stern is
under the cave overhang but exercise caution. There’s a group of three caves around the
headland and north of Lalarias. The first cave you encounter is the largest and it’s possible to
take a dinghy or snorkel into around the massive central column. The second has a small
entrance but it penetrates quite far under the cliff.
I don’t know much about the third cave as a
sea monster lives at the very back and local
lore has it that no-one venturing in to explore
has ever come back out alive ☺
97
18) PALARIAS COVE

7
Palarias Cove
2 10 15
25
cave
20metres
39°15'.1N 023°58'.4E
One of my favourite spots along this coast is the small cove of Ormos Palarias 550m NE of
Lalarias which is geologically fascinating and looks like a natural amphitheatre. Approach is
clear of all danger but it’s only possible to anchor in settled conditions. There’s no room to
swing on anchor so you must tie the bow to rocks at the northern entrance with a stern line to
one of the two rocks on the cove’s west side.
The water is deep right up to the rock and if well-prepared you can drop someone off from
the bow or stern and complete the manoeuvre without getting any feet wet. A hidden cave
beside the stone beach in the corner of the cove can be explored.
98
19) NES MOULES REEF
10 2
10
NES MOULES
2 15
local knowledge
4
10
15
5
20
8 60 metres
39°16'.3N 023°59'.3E
A shark’s tooth shaped rock (Vrak Moro) and

the long Nes Moules reef extends beyond the
NE cape Ak Gregali but it’s possible to
navigate safely around the rock without any
trouble. On Nes Moules there’s a 10m gap
between a taller rock south and elongated reef
and, with caution, it’s possible to navigate
through this small gap but when manoeuvring
through the gap stay as close to the south side
as possible as water is a little deeper here.
99
20) FIRAKOS BAY
© Delphinus Publishing Ltd 39°16.'6N 023°57'.5E
FIRAKOS BAY 20
15
12
4
8 3
2 4
100 metres
research lab
Firakos Bay is open to northerly swell but

perfect if you’re in the area and a westerly or
southerly storm is approaching. There’s a small
quay at the head of the bay with 2m depth. If
space is tight you can long-line from the ballast
and also anchor in the middle of the bay near
the beach but it can get shallow.
100
21) AY YERAKAS
39°17'.6N 023°57'.2E
Ay YERAKAS

100 metres
In good conditions it’s possible to manouevre a yacht round a shark- tooth rock at Ay
Yerakas on Alonnisos NW cape. The manoeuvre follows a dog leg formed by the
surrounding cliffs. There’s not much room for error as rock ledges shelve underwater from
the cliffs. I’ve been round this rock a couple times and recorded depths of 6m. It’s possible to
drop someone on the rock which is great for jumping from and provides a brilliant photo-
opportunity for impressing those back home.
101
22) AMMONI ROCK
39°15'.4N 023°54'.9E © Delphinus Publishing Ltd
10
10
Vrak Amoni
e 10
dg
owle
kn
al
loc
Ak AMONI
200 metres
Vrak Amoni is a rock on the west coast of Alonnisos 2.7nm from the NW cape of Ak
Gerakas and around 100m from shore and could be a hazard when beating northwards. You
sometimes get a lift close to this coast which makes it possible to go inside the rock although
extreme caution needs to be taken.
102
23) MANOLAS ISLE
39°11'.7N 023°51'.5E
10
local knowledge
4
Manolas
100 24 10
Vr Stavros
3
3
35
10
600 metres 8
Manolas Island is located on the western side of Alonnissos and can be navigated around
although the depth shallows to 7m in the middle of the channel. Vrak Stavros is an outlying
rock 850m to the south of Manolas with shoal water in the form of an underwater spit
extending from the shore with the deepest water near Vrak Stavros.
103
24) MEGALI AMMOS BAY
300 metres
10
5

18
10
MEGALI 8
AMMOS
6
25
10
3
39°10'.7N 023°52'.4E
Megali Ammos is located on the west coast of Alonnisos and it’s a bay where you can find
some shelter from the meltemi. Anchor in 5-8m in sand and weed as close to the NE corner
of the cove as practicable. The bay is protected from NE meltemi but if the wind backs you
may lose shelter with swell able to work its way into the bay.
104
25) TSOUKALIA BEACH
39°10'.3N 23°51'.9E 10
30
20
10
5
10 5 TSOUKALAKIA
BEACH
350 metres
Tsoukalia is a small coarse-sand and shingle beach and while offering no protection from
meltemi it’s a nice anchor spot if the weather is settled. Pay attention to the shoals and reef
which extend from the bay’s northern headland.
105
26) GIALIA & VRISITSA COVES
39°9'.5N 023°50'.8E
WINDMILL
COVE 10
15
8
5 Gialia Cove
4
Vrisitsa Cove
windmill
200 metres © Delphinus Publishing Ltd
Gialia and Vrisitisa are two small coves on the SW coast of Alonnisos and an idyllic
windmill overlooks a small sand and stone beach providing an opportunity for some fantastic
photography. Anchor as near to the beach as possible with a line ashore. Vrisitisa is the bay
south of Gialia and has a beach of coarse sand and shingle located in a steep-sided inlet and
may provide some protection from the wind. Both bays are open to the meltemi but make
fantastic temporary anchorages.
106
PERISTERI ISLAND
Likorema
Island
6
5
4 8
Peristeri Island
3
2
1
1) Xero Bay | 2) Peristera Bay | 3) Kokkalias Bay | 4) Vasiliko Bay | 5) Vasiliko Cove | 6) Wreck Bay | 7) Livadakia Bay | 8)
Klima Bay | 9) Likorema Island
Peristeri is 4.5nm long and 2.2nm wide at the southern end with a 17.5 nm coastline. The
island only has a handful of semi-permanent inhabitants with a few summer houses and some
accommodation for visiting fishermen dotted about but it does have some really nice sandy
beaches which makes a visit enjoyable.
It was once joined to Alonnissos and there is interesting underwater archaeology between the
islands which still exists as well as Byzantine wreck finds which tend to be found all over the
Sporades. I get as much pleasure exploring underwater as I do sailing because both
continually provide new experiences and also a lot of excitement when you come across a
new Treasure above or below the waves.
107
1) XERO BAY
5 Ak
Xe
ro
40 10
XERO BAY
5 50 20
80 5
25 250 metres
Ormos Xero Bay is situated on the south coast of Peristeri and is protected from northerly
winds but open to southerlies. Anchor in 4-8m on sand and weed with good holding at the
head of either small cove. If expecting a northerly blow I would advise moving to Peristera
Bay to the west for better shelter but it’s also open to the south.
108
2) PERISTERA BAY
250 metres gusts
PERISTERA
BAY 5 15
30
2 30
10
avris
20
s
Kavo
20
Ak M
70
10 50 5
5
39°9'.8N 023°57'.7E
Peristera Bay is the largest of the three bays on the island’s south coast and the anchorage is
in a lovely location, surrounded by pines, olive groves with a few fishermen’s cottages dotted
about. It’s a good overnight anchorage and protected from all winds except southerlies.
Anchor off the sandy beach at the head of the bay in 3-7m in sand, mud and weed. It’s very
good holding but run a shoreline if the anchorage becomes busy. There’s good shelter from
meltemi winds but they can accelerate and gust down the hills.
109
3) KOKKALIAS BAY
5
Ak Spasmeni
3

5
KOKKALIAS BAY
20
30
Ak Mavros Kavos
25 5
500 metres
39°10'.1N 023°56'.7E
Ormos Kokkalias is furthest west of the island’s three south coast bays and the V-shaped
cove is ideal as a lunch and swim stop. Anchor at the head of the bay in 3-6m in sand and
weed. The bay is protected from moderate meltemi but open to the west and southwesterly
winds.
110
4) VASILIKO BAY
39°11'.7N 023°57'.9E
55
18
10
60

15
VASILIKO 30
BAY
20 10
50
10 9
500 metres
The large Vasiliko Bay on Peristeri’s west coast with few anchorages offering adequate
protection against the meltemi winds. Southerly gales, when they hit, can cause problems to a
lot of ports in the Sporades and the south coast of Vasiliko Bay is one of the few places
offering protection from them.
111
5) VASILIKO COVE
39°11'.8N 023°58'.5E
10

20
30 10
VASSY BAY
20
400 metres
This is the bay’s main anchorage and it’s well-protected from meltemi winds although it can
gust from the north over the hills. Anchor as close to the head of the bay as possible in 3-6m
on sand with good holding. There is a reef extending from the western headland into this
cove and there are mooring in the bay, with some foul areas. An underwater cable is meant to
run seawards from the head of the bay.
112
6) WRECK BAY
39°12'.2N 023°58'.2E

5
4
20
SHIPWRECK 15 5
COVE
20
60 metres
One of the bays on the north side of Ormos Vasiliko has a large wreck on its small, sandy
beach beach which is perfect to swim from. You can back up direct to some rocks and attach
shorelines to them. Best mooring position is in the NE corner of the small bay but if the space
is already taken go stern-to right up against the rocky cliff. It’s easy enough to get a line on
some old attached mooring lines. Wreck Bay is perfectly safe for an overnight stay under
normal conditions but it means dropping anchor in quite deepish water.
The wreck was originally impounded on Alonissos after being seized for people-smuggling
but broke its moorings and washed-up on Peristera and provides fun for the kids and
excellent photo opportunities.
113
7) LIVADAKIA BAY
39°12'.8N 023°59'.1E
LIVADAKIA BAY
60
45
Ak Lekhousas
20
10 10
3

3
500 metres
A small beach at the head of Livadakia Bay is a good place to be in a southerly winds but it’s
open to meltemi and considerable swell can build -up with northerly winds. Pay attention to a
shoal halfway down the bay’s eastern side and anchor in 3-5m in sand and weed.
114
8) KLIMA BAY
39°11'.4N 023°59'.0E
10
10
50
KLIMA BAY
30

15
10 50
6
20
10
5
200 metres
Ormos Klima is a large bay on the east side of Peristeri. Meltemi and swell reaches the
southern cove but the scenery makes a visit really rewarding. The north cove is a useful place
to hide from winds and can be used as overnight anchorage in light meltemi but swell can
creep round the headland so use in settled weather. Anchor in 3-6m in sand with good
holding.
115
9) LIKOREMA ISLAND
39°14.0'N 023°59'.5E
400 metres
10
35 100
120
LIKOREMA
6 10
10
20
80
20
50
Likorema is a small uninhabited island just north of Peristeri. I’ve never managed to land
there but you might find a suitable anchorage towards the island’s southern cape.
116
DESERTED ISLANDS
Psathoura
Yioura
Piperi
Kira Panayia (Pelagos)

Alonissos
Peristeri
Adhelfi
Skantzoura
Skyros
Pelagos | Yioura | Psathoura | Adhelfi | Skantzoura | Prasso & Pappous | Piperi
117
KIRA PANAYIA ISLAND
6
4
3
5
7 KIRA PANAYIA
(PELAGOS) 2
8
1) Kira Panayia Bay | 2) Monastery Bay | 3) Lehouni Cove | 4) Yialos Cove | 5) Planitis Bay | 6) Gournoumandri Cove | 7)
Paigniou Cove | 8) Steno Rock
The island of Kira Panayia (Pelagos) is 4.5nm long by 4nm wide with a coastline of 20nm.
Lying SE of the island there’s an isolated rock Nes Melissa in position 39° 17.492'N 24°
5.415'E but otherwise the island approaches are clear of dangers until closer inshore.
Kira Panayia is largely deserted apart from
some attendants who work for the church and
take care of agricultural and farming interests.
There are lots of goats, some cows, a few
ponies and there’s meant to be a huge angry
black bull on the island but so far I’ve been
lucky enough to avoid it.
Over the centuries the island has provided a
favourite hiding place for pirates. It was was
settled in ancient times and remnants of a small city have been found with many
archaelogical finds including some sunken Byzantine ships with intact collections of pottery
retrieved. There’s fresh water in the NE of the island but it’s quite a trek so it’s easier to
bring your own.
118
1) KIRA PANAYIA BAY (OUTER)
4 5
100
no Kira 10
Ste
gusts
Ak 40
90 8 35
15
22 KIRA PANAYIA
80 10 6
40 25
Fl.3s Pelerissa 25 50
8 80
6
70
10
100 40
500 metres
39°18'.3N 024°2'.4E Ak Panagia
1a) KIRA PANAYIA BAY (INNER)
550 metres
4 3
8
16 10
Kira
20
gusts
8 50
45 35
6
KIRA PANAYIA 15 3
32 10
40 6 3
10 1
30 8
18
10
6
39°18'.8N 024°3'.0E
Kira Panayia Bay is located on the SW part of the island and is large with several coves
suitable for anchoring. The rocky islet, Nisos Pelerissa, stands at the bay entrance and is lit
(Fl.3s25m7M). It’s safe to navigate all round the islet but you should stay 50m off the S & SE
sides because of shoals and shallow water.
The most popular anchorage in the bay are the coves on the northern shore with space for a
few boats in the westernmost cove but you must take a line ashore. Anchor in 4-7m in sand.
There’s a small pebble and sand beach at the head of this cove but rubbish often accumulates.
The larger cove in the bay’s NE corner is protected behind Kira Islet with 8-10m depths in
the centre and exceptionally good holding in sand. Care must be taken because of the shallow
water SW of Kira Islet but otherwise it’s free of danger.
Some pilot guides refers to this cove as Ormos Paigniou which is the name of a small inlet on
the western side of the island (see below). You can free anchor in the large inlet to the SE
119
with a bottom of sand, weed and rock with mediocre holding. Shallow depths are found
towards the olive groves and the small quay is unsuitable for yacht berthing.
The north cove offers shelter from all winds
except southerlies although westerly and NW
winds can produce swell in all the coves
although the SE one offers protection from all
winds except westerlies and NW although
strong northerlies can produce some nasty
gusts.
120
2) MONASTERY BAY
MONASTERY
BAY
5 3

10
20
250 metres
39°19'.4N 024°5.'7E
Monastery Bay is on the island’s eastern side

and only suitable for calm weather anchoring
being open to all wind directions apart from
westerlies. The approach is straightforward
with no hazards apart from a small shoal
extending from the northern headland at the
bay entrance.
Anchor in 5m in the south of the bay paying attention to a rock ledge extending for a short
distance from shore where a staircase leads to the monastery. Some area maps can mislead
with printing over the island and I’ve known yachts end-up in the wrong place.
121
3) LEKHOUNI COVE
39°21'.0N 024°5'.7E
80
20
LEKHOUNI COVE
15
nto
20
Ke
Ak
10

250 metres
Lekhouni is a narrow inlet in the NE corner of the island which is open to the north and only
suitable in calm, settled conditions but it’s a nice spot for a lunch stop. For best shelter anchor
in the inlet’s SW extremity which is sometimes mistaken for Planitis Bay.
122
4) YIALOS COVE
39°21'.3N 024°5.'1E
8 25
10
8 cave
5
YIALOS
COVE
cave 4
600 metres
The bay lies to the east of Planitis and is often overlooked except when yachts are trying to
locate the entrance to Planitis although there’s a cave worth exploring. It’s a small inlet and
only suitable in calm weather.
123
5) PLANITIS BAY
39°21'.4N 024°4'.9E
700 metres 10
75
8 Sfika
2 60
10 40
PLANITIS 14
BAY
10 ilo
M
Ak
fisherman's
cave 7
5
15
14 15
goat pen
14 15 10
8 9 5
10
7
5 4
2 3 Endexio
Cove
Planitis Bay is probably the Agean’s best natural anchorage and its only downfall is an
entrance facing NNE directly into the path of the prevailing meltemi. I’ve never had any
problems entering or leaving it but other pilots document that this may be a problem when the
meltemi is blowing hard although I’ve been here in F6 with no problems. If moderate
northerlies are forecast vessels avoid the bay in fear of being stuck and tend to head for Kira
Panayia Bay. But Planitis is a good place to be stormbound and almost perfect as a hurricane
hole.
Approach is free from hazards but the entrance is tricky to identify until close-in when Sfika
Islet is obvious and should be left to starboard with shoals between it and shore. The entrance
is 80m wide before opening into a large lagoon system with two coves — Endexios to the SE
and Dravi to the SW. In strong northerlies it’s best to anchor near the north coast of Endexios
close to the fishermen’s buildings with lines ashore.
In strong southerlies the SE corner of Dravi has
better shelter. Strong SW can create vicious
gusts from the hills with the best anchorage
found in the SW of Endexios. I’ve been told
that in gale force northerlies the best place to
be is the NW corner of Planitis near the
fisherman’s cave at the bay entrance. The
centre of the coves are 12m but it gets
124
shallower towards shore. You can get close to the rocks in most places to attach shorelines.
Bottom is mud and sand with good holding. There’s a large rock on the beach in the SW
corner with a metal eye for shorelines but it’s really more use for catamarans as the depth get
shallower close-in.
125
6) GOURNOMANDRI COVE
150 metres
20
GOURNOMANDRI
15
10
4
This small cove near the island’s NW cape has small cliffs on all sides and is suitable as a
temporary anchorage. You can go stern-to the rocks at the back of the cove with a shoreline.
On the north side of the cove depressions form shallow caves and it’s an excellent place for
snorkelling.
126
7) PAIGNIOU COVE
40 PIRATE
25
COVE
15
10
30 7
200 metres
39°20'.0N 024°2'.6E
Paigniou is a long narrow inlet on Kira Panayia’s western coast which offers some protection
from meltemi but I avoid anchoring here except in settled weather. There’s a conspicuous
natural V-shaped rock scar on the headland forming the inlet’s northern entrance. You’ll find
plenty of depth all the way down the inlet until the last 30m when it starts to shallow. You
can anchor in the cove but lines must be taken ashore to spider web the boat into position as
space is very limited.
A private beach, backed by olive trees, waits for those who venture here and a path leads to
Planitis and other parts of the island. But I wouldn’t leave a vessel unattended, especially for
a prolonged period.
127
8) STENO ROCK
60 metres
7
10
local 5
knowledge

Vr STENO 3
5
35 2
39°19'.4N 024°2'.3E
Vrak Steno is a rock islet between Kira Panayia Bay and Paigniou Inlet. With caution it’s
possible to manoeuvre a yacht around the inside of the rock.
128
YIOURA ISLAND
YIOURA
1) Ak Kavos Pnigmenou | 2) Ormos Megali Vala
Yioura is 4.5nm long by about 1.4nm wide

with a 13nm coastline and it’s a rocky,
deserted island with a precipitous shoreline
forming part of the Marine Reserve central
area.
There are landing restrictions on the island and
you have to stay a safe distance from it’s
shores unless you have been given permission
from the national park authority. It’s a
fascinating island, and if you get permission
it’s possible to sail close to the shore as the
sheer coastline has no hidden dangers.
The island is scrub-covered and home to a rare species of mountain goat as well as the
endangered Mediterranean monk seal. You can land at an inlet in the SW of the island where
a steep path leads to the fabled Cyclopes Cave.
129
The legendary one-eyed giant Cyclopes: Arges, Brontes and Steropes were sons of Uranus
and Gaea and each had a single round eye in the middle of their forehead. They helped Zeus
defeat their brother Cronus by forging lightning bolts and made the Trident wielded by
Poseidon as well as the invisibility cap worn by Hades.
Homer relates how, as Odysseus made his
eventful way home from the Trojan War, he
landed seeking supplies but was captured with
his crew by the Cyclops Polyphemus who
lived with his sheep in a cave. Only after
Polyphemus had killed and eaten six of the
Greeks did Odysseus and the remaining crew
escape the cannibal son of Poseidon after
plying him with wine and blinding him as he
slept.
Archaeological surveys of island caves have
revealed occupation at various times from the
Mesolithic and Neolithic Periods. During the
Roman Empire the island was used to house
out-of-favour exiles from Rome. Many of the
caves are now under water but researchers
have found pottery and fish hooks which
suggest a different type of Aegean. Temple ruins have been discovered, near the Platania
Spring, which are thought to have been dedicated to the mighty Sea God Poseidon. In the
1800’s the island was home to monks from Mount Athos but they were slaughtered during a
pirate raid with only one monk escaping death by hiding in the caves.
130
1) AK KAVOS PNIGMENOU
39°23'.9N 024°11'.3E
10 Ak Kavos
Pnigmenou

local
YIOURA knowledge
10 Eve's Islet
200 metres
A cruise down Yioura’s eastern shore is certainly rewarding with cliffs soaring dramatically
from sea level. There’s also fascinating geological features with massive folds and fracture
lines running through the rock strata which provide a lot of interest when sailing by.
Just to the south of the eastern cape of Ak
Kavos lies the small rocky Eve's Islet and it’s
possible to manoeuvre your yacht between it
and the rocky shore. There’s plenty of water
depth and it’s achievable under sail. West of
the cape there’s a steep white pebbly beach and
it may be possible to anchor here in settled
conditions but it’s open to the north and
obviously a high-energy beach so it should be
avoided unless conditions are light.
131
2) MEGALI VALA BAY
path
rings 5
caves
5 landing 10
MEGALI VALA
10 40
100
400 metres
Ormos Megali Vala is a large inlet on the island’s southern coast whose approach is clear of
dangers with very deep water apart from some shallower water and rock at Ak Yeronti on the
SE cape.
There is a curious cliff berth, in the furthest reaches of the inlet, where you can tie-off to if
the swell is low. Mooring rings have been drilled into the rock face to attach lines with rock
graffiti possibly left by servicemen identifying their patrol boat number. West of this inlet a
landing stage and a pathway leads up the mountainside. There are caves in the area and, still
occupied, a stable for mules and storage facility for fishing gear.
132
PSATHOURA ISLAND & AREA
PSATHOURA
1
MIGA
1) Psathoura Island | 2) South Beach
Psathoura is the most northerly of the Sporades Islands and takes its name from a
resemblance to a mat floating on the water. Perhaps the most beautiful beach in the Sporades
it’s more like a tropical atoll than an Aegean beach. The deserted island is just a couple of
square kilometres in area and 0.8nm long by 0.4nm wide with a 2.3 nm coastline with it’s
highest natural point above sea level just 14m. A lighthouse was finished in 1895 and stands
25 metres above sea level with it’s beam radiating for 18 miles.
The island is distinct from others in the Sporades Arhchipelago with unique volcanic origins
and rock composed of augitic andesite and olivinein. Psathoura Island is my personal
favourite in the whole of the Sporades and visitors are well-rewarded by visiting this isolated
spot.
But take care as folklore has it that Psathoura and it’s rocky outliers is one of the locations
133
indicated for the home of the Sirens. According to legend the Sirens lived on several small,
rocky islands and sang beautiful songs which enticed sailors to draw near and become
stranded on the rocks. I've always thought that geographically Psathoura fits so much better
with the meanderings of the Argus than the many Italian favourites although we must
always remember that the known world to ancient civilisations wasn’t a fixed entity but was
ever-expanding.
Some ancient writers confused the Sirens with mermaids but it’s more accurate to view
them as land-based as they lived in a ‘flowery meadow’ although they would sing their
songs from the water’s edge to get closer to mariners. I’ve often pondered whether the
Sirens were wreckers using songs and music instead of a wrecking lantern to lure their
victims. These days we have an excellent lighthouse to keep mariners safe from the rocks if
not the sirens.
One thing’s for sure, they were regarded as a real threat to ancient mariners and the centaur
Chiron even warned Jason as he sailed off on his quest for the Golden Fleece that he needed
Orpheus with him so that when the Siren Song began the skilled musician could drown out
the enchanting singing with his beautiful lyre playing.
134
1) PSATHOURA ISLAND
Fl.10s
caves PSATHOURA
ancient
well
39°29'.4N 024°11'.0E
Ruins on the northern side of Psathoura seem to have been an ancient fortress and on the
western and southern sides there are Neolithic remains of human habitation. A ruined city
has been reported off the southern coast at 10 to 17m depth and have looked for this sunken
city on numerous occasions but haven’t spotted it yet.
Some believe it may have been the site of the ancient Chrysi — a gold minining location
situated a short distance from Limnos where Philoctetes met near disaster in the form of a
sea-snake bite. Geographer Pausanias says the entire island was sunk below the waves and
disappeared with Iera (Sacred) rising from the depths in its place. Other ancient accounts
tell how Jason on his quest for the Golden Fleece passed through Chrysi — Psathoura was
the final island on his route from ancient Iolkos — and set up an altar dedicated to Athena.
Sophocles’s tragedy Philoctetes recounts a dramatic story of ancient skullduggery after
Greek leaders discovered that the success of their expedition to take Troy rested on
obtaining the bow and poisoned arrows of the now dead Heracles — known as Hercules by
the Romans.
As a noble, Philoctetes had been eligible to compete for the hand of Helen — said to be the
most beautiful woman in the world at the time. Although Philoctetes was unsuccessful in
winning Helen he was bound by the solemn oath made by all prospective suitors to defend
the chosen suitor’s marriage to Helen. It’s probably the firt ever prenuptial agreement and
certainly the costliest ever. So when Helen ran away from her husband with Paris, the
Trojan War began to recover her for Menelaus and the errant wife achieved fame, or
perhaps infamy, as the face that launched a thousand ships.
But on the way to Troy, Philoctetes was stranded on the island of Chrysi on the orders of
Odysseus the King of Ithaca. Soon after landing Philoctetes received a terrible wound in his
foot which healed by day and broke open again at night accompanied by a gangrenous
stench. According to Sophocles, a seasnake guarding Athena's Temple on Chrisi bit
Philoctetes who had stumbled across the holy place by accident although others claim he
was searching for the temple. The exiled Philoctetes then spent 10 years in solitude on
135
Lemnos tortured nightly from the unbearable pain from his wound.
During the battle for Troy the Greeks captured and tortured Helenus — the prophet son of
King Priam of Troy — who prophecised the Trojans couldn’t be beaten unless the Greeks
had the bow and arrows of Heracles. So Odysseus returned to Lemnos and tricked the
weapons away from Philoctetes who had been gifted them by Heracles. But Odysseus
agreed the castaway tcould rejoin the Greek army and sail for Troy where his wound would
be be permanently healed.
Legend adds that Philoctetes was the one who eventually slew Paris by firing a volley of
arrows at him with the fourth finding its mark when it buried itself into the unprotected heel
of Priam’s son. Philoctetes was also one of those hidden inside the Wooden Horse which
brought death and final destruction to the Kingdom of Troy.
136
2) SOUTH BEACH
170 metres
5 2
well PSATHOURA
8
2
5
5
9 © Delphinus Publishing Ltd
39°29'.5N 024°10'.5E
A bay on the south side is available for anchoring but provides only moderate shelter from
the meltemi so you must have the guarantee of settled weather before anchoring here
overnight. Unless you have a shallow draft vessel it’s no place to be in strong weather.
Waters around the island are very shallow and you must proceed with caution.
An underwater rock on the direct line between the northern cape of Yioura and the western
fringes of the island is dangerous to navigation being one mile south of the island within the
20 metre depth contour. The hazard is easily avoided by altering course to pass east of Vrak
Miga, the flat islet just south of Psathoura.
The bay on the south of the island has small rocky reef-like headlands protruding from it and
the best anchorage is directly between them in 6m on sand with good holding but the
prevailing winds can have subtle changes of direction over quite a short time-frame. At this
spot I have witnessed the wind backing from a NE to a NW direction as the night progresses
and to deal with this, I would advise visitors to change their anchoring position as shown in
the illustration. When you arrive the calmest anchorage will invariably be under the cliffs to
the west of the rocky reef and when the wind shifts you would move your anchorage to the
east side of the rocky reef.
The meltemi in this area blows strongest at
night and it’s advisable to move anchorage to
the east before dusk. Keep an eye on the
weather, particularly towards Mt Athos where
you can anticipate a change in wind direction
when you see lightning storms on the mountain
top. Also if fishermen move their boats then
make similar moves as they are usually very
alert to local weather changes.
137
ADHELFI ISLANDS
1
ADHELFOPOULIS

ADHELFI
3
1) North Passage | 2) Mid Gap | 3) South Cove | 4) South Reef
The Adhelfi islands are located 2 miles south of Peristeri with a few islets and temporary
anchorages on their southern coasts. The eastern coasts of both islands are sheer and it’s
possible to sail very close to the land.
138
The geological features and cliffs are very reminiscent of those on Yioura, although smaller.
The combined length of these islands is 1.7nm and the widest point is 0.5nm with a total
coastline of around 5nm.
Vrak Barketta, approximately 1nm north of the islands, is very dangerous to navigation and
you must maintain extra vigilance when sailing in the area.
139
1) NORTH PASSAGE
39°7'.9N 023°59'.5E
15

20
3 4
local knowledge
20
10
NORTH 120 metres

ADHELFI
With caution you can make a passage between the northern cape of Adhelfopoulis and the
rocky islet immediately to the north that forms an extension of the headland. When passing
through this gap, stay in the middle of passage where depth is 4m.
140
2) MID GAP
141
39°7.'4N 023°58'.9E
ADHELFOPOULIS
15
GAP
LFI
DHE 25
A 8

ADHELFI 4 20
3 local knowledge
7
80 metres
142
Head into the cove on Adhelfopoulis, the northern island, and anchor in 5-8m in rock and
weed with moderate holding. The pilots disagree on the water separating the main islands
with some charts indicating shoals and a reef but a safe passage exists. A small, rocky islet
stands between the main islands with the deepest water to the north of it. When I pass through
the gap I stay in the middle of the channel between the rocky islet and the north island with a
depth of 6m.
143
3) SOUTH COVE
144
400 metres 5
5
10 ADHELFI
50
5
10 80
5
50 20
5
39°6'.2N 023°58'.6E
145
Adhelfi’s SE coast has a curious geological feature worthy of investigation. It looks similar in
structure to the Dorancara on the northern coast of Skiathos and is perhaps a sea cave that has
collapsed forming a dramatic chute/chimney-like structure. I’ve looked at it a couple of times
but it’s always been too choppy to investigate safely. It may be possible to manoeuvre a
vessel into it. However, from a distance it looks like there might be some rocks in the
northern corner of this tiny cove so you must proceed with caution.
There’s also a rocky islet extending from the island’s southern cape and it may be possible to
manoeuvre a vessel between it and the shore. Again, it was far too choppy for me to
investigate further and as there are definitely some rocks between the islet and Adhelfi’s
southern shore it shouldn’t be investigated unless the sea is smooth. There’s an anchorage on
the southern coast and you should drop anchor as close to the cove head as possible in 5m on
stone and weed.
146
4) POLIRRIKHOS & GAIDHAROS REEFS (39° 4.43'N 23° 057.16'E)
39°4'.4N 023°56'.9E
50
100
Vr Polirrikhos
20 155
45 16
GAIDHAROS
ROCKS
180
80 100
70 metres
These rocky islets and reefs are 2 miles south of Adhelfi and very dangerous to navigation,
particularly at night. A passage exists between them and depth goes down to 15m. There’s a
rock immediately to the NW of Polirrikhos which is easily avoided but you should pay close
attention to the reef that extends to the NW of Gaidharos. If sailing in this area at night, keep
an eye on the echo sounder as both rocks are within the 100m depth-contour.
147
SKANTZOURA ISLAND
SKANTZOURA
Prasso
1
1) Prasso Bay & Skantzoura Cove

Skantzoura Island is just over 3nm x 0.5nm with a 10nm coastline and being 12nm from the
SE cape of Alonissos it’s a perfect stop on passage to Skyros.
It’s surrounded by many islets and areas of shoal but there’s lots of anchoring places safe
enough for an overnight stop. The island is deserted apart from visitors, fishermen and the
occasional monk visiting the abandoned monastery. The surrounding water is crystal clear
with really good swimming and snorkelling to be had. Approaching or sailing around
Skantzoura pay attention to areas of shoal water extending north of Skandili Islet and a small
patch SE of Vrak Korakas.
148
1) PRASSO BAY & SKANTZOURA COVE
10
s o
as
Pr
Prasso 3 10
Bay 4
SKANTZOURA

10
10 Skantzoura
Cove
800 metres
39°3'.8N 024°5'.9E
Ormos Prasso forms a bay on the west side of Skantzoura with three coves available for
anchoring depending on wind direction. Anchor in 3-5m in sand. There is large fisherman’s
grapnel anchor in the south cove marked with a buoy which has lines running from the shore
which should be avoided.
Ormos Skantzoura is a deep narrow bay on the south side of the island. Anchor in 3-6m in
sand and take a line ashore This bay is well protected from meltemi winds and the swell it
creates and is suitable for overnight anchorage.
The bays offer some shelter from the meltemi but due to the low profile of the island the wind
can howl into anchorages when blowing hard. I would advise anyone staying here for any
length of time to carefully pick the most suitable spot they can find and take lines ashore for
added security. Swell can work its way into the anchorages on the west side. Excellent
fishing exists around the island.
If experiencing strong westerlies that make the anchorages above untenable there may be
suitable alternatives available on the eastern shore. Not having anchored here I’m unsure of
the bottom but there’s depth to get into the bay at Ormos Yerania or the smaller cove between
Yerania Bay and Ak Liano. Other pilots indicate that there are two islands in this smaller
cove but I think they may have been mistaken for rocks off the Ak Liano Headland.
Nisos Prasso is a small island to the west of Skantzoura with a small cove on the south side
that a yacht can get into. Anchor in 4-5m and take a line ashore as swing room is limited.
Other pilots report an anchor near the cove but I have been unable to find it.
149
PRASSO & PAPPOUS ISLANDS
150
39°20'.8N 024°7'.1E
60 PAPPOUS
45
10 70
50 80
10
PRASSO 50
100
750 metres 10
151
1) Pappous Island
The two small islands of N Prasso and N Pappous are located in the Yioura Channel between
Pelagos and Yioura. I have sailed around them but only ever anchored at the small cove on
Nisos Pappous as illustrated below.
152
PAPPOUS ISLAND
153
8
20
50 PAPPOUS
8 150 metres
39°21'.2N 024°'7.1E
154
There’s a small bay on the NE coast of this deserted island where it’s possible to anchor a
yacht and a delightful place to spend some time and though protected from the NE meltemi I
wouldn’t spend the night here unless assured of settled weather.
155
PIPERI ISLAND
PIPERI
e d a re a
restrict
It’s forbidden to get closer than three miles to Piperi and you also require scientific or
special permission to land there.
In mythology the seals were protected by Apollo and Poseidon but it now falls to the
wardens of the Alonnisos and Northern Sporades National Park Authority. Piperi Island lies
at the heart of the marine park and is home to the Mediterranean monk seal and other rare
species like Eleonaras Falcon as well as rare plant species. I’ve never landed on the island
but there may be an emergency anchorage on the south coast. The island is 2.3nm long by
around 0.6nm wide with a coastline of 6.3nm.
The National Park began in 1992 primarily to protect endangered species. Zone A is the
nucleus of the park and comprises of Kyra Panagia, Yioura, Skantzoura and Piperi which
alone has 33 species of birds including 350 pairs of Eleanoras Falcons, the Mediterranean
156
Shag and Audoins Gull. Please respect the aims of the park, founded to protect rare species
and not primarily for our enjoyment. As a marine biologist and former ranger at Loch
Lomond and Trossachs National Park in Scotland, preservation of the natural environment
is very important to me.
By just following some very simple guidelines we can ensure the success of rare species
and fauna by helping preserve a natural environment for generations to come which I’m
sure all responsible sailors will be more than happy to support.
157
PELION, VOLOS GULF & MAINLAND COAST
1
2
23
22
21
20
24 Pelion
Gulf of Volos SKIATHOS
25 28 19
18
27 29 12 11 17
26 8 3
9 10 16
13 15
30 4
7 14 5
Trikeri
6 Channel
31
32
33
35
34
37 36 el
nn
Cha
Or
ei Evia
38 © Delphinus Publishing Ltd
1) Ag Ioannis | 2) Damoucharia | 3) Katiogorgios | 4) Platania | 5) Chondri Ammos Bay | 6) Ak Kiriaki | 7) Kavoulia

Lighthouse | 8) Palaio Trikeri Island | 9) Palaio Trikeri Quay | 10) Pithos Bay | 11) Pardhalos Point | 12) Donkey Island | 13)
Trikeri Bay | 14) Kotte Village | 15) Zasteni Cove | 16) Vathoudi Bay | 17) Sunsail Base | 18) Milina Bay | 19) Petraki Cove |
20) Affisos Harbour | 21) Katio Gatsia | 22) Agria Harbour | 23) Volos City Harbour | 24) Nea Agchialos | 25) Sourpis Bay |
26) Ag Ioannis Bay | 27) Loutraki Cove | 28) Mitzellas Bay | 29) Amaliopolis Harbour | 30) Nies Bay 31) Ptelou Bay | 32)
Pigadhi | 33) Akhelion | 34) Loutro Cove | 35) Aryonissos Island | 36) Glifa | 37) Vathikelou Bay | 38) Ag Konstantinos
158
PELION PENINSULA
1) Ag Ioannis | 2) Damoucharia | 3) Katiogorgios | 4) Platania | 5) Chondri Ammos Bay | 6) Ak Kiriaki | 7) Kavoulia

Lighthouse
The mountains of Pelion lie across the channel from Skiathos. The eastern coastline of the
Pelion peninsula is completely open to the prevailing weather and although possible to find
some shelter behind some minor breakwaters and quays, it is no place to be in rough or
deteriorating weather conditions. However, the rugged and wild coastline is a pleasure to
explore and when weather is calm, many of its small bays, coves and beaches are worthy of
exploration.
The Trickeri Channel separates Evia from the Magnesia Peninsula and mainland and a
current sets through the channel from NE to the SW but it’s never more than a knot or two.
Invariably, the prevailing wind is funnelled down the channel and can be accelerated in
areas.
The channel is clear of dangers except for two groups of outlying rocks and reefs. They
don’t present any real danger being close to the shore. I have examined both sets of rocks
and found it possible to pass within a boat’s length of them.
159
The wild mountainous slopes of the Pelion Peninsula hold a special place in Greek
mythology and were home to the tribe of half-human half-horse Centaurs who certainly
could be bad news when they got bevvied and held wild parties which usually ended in a
punch-up.
The Centaurs came about because a local king named Ixion fancied Hera — the wife of
Zeus the God of Gods — who decided to play a trick on the king by conjuring-up a
hologram of Hera out of a passing cloud which the deluded king made love to and
Centauros was born who then mated with the wild mares of Mount Pelion.
But Chiron was a centaur with a very different background — renowned throughout Greece
for his wisdom and healing powers — who became a gentle much-loved tutor to many of
the Greek heroes like: Ajax, Jason, Achilles, Theseus, Aeneas, Peleus, and Hercules.
Chiron had a strange beginning as his father Cronus was a God and one of the Titans who
married his sister Rhea and seized power by castrating his father Uranus and swallowing
five of his children as soon as they were born because of the prophecy that he would be
killed by one of them. By the time Rhea ’s sixth baby was born she had cottoned-on to her
husband ’s plan and substituted the new-born for a rock wrapped in a baby-gro which was
promptly swallowed by Cronus leaving the infant to become Zeus — the God of Gods.
Cronus fancied a roll in the hay with Philyra — the goddess of beauty — but as the pair got
down to business the wife of Cronus turned up and to avoid recognition the Titan changed
himself into a horse. As a result Philrya gave birth to a half-horse half-human and was so
horrified and disgusted that she abandoned Chiron at birth.
It’s possible that this rejection made Chiron the ideal mentor which he became in his Mount
Pelion cave which became a safe refuge for children at risk from the political machinations
of their relatives and indeed the Gods and being divine — from his goddess mother Philyra
— gave the Centaur a degree of protection and authority.
Asclepius was brought to Chiron from his dead mother’s womb by Hermes, the winged-
messenger of the Gods, and the growing child was schooled in medicine by the centaur to
eventually became God of Healing.
Iason — Jason of the Argonauts — also found refuge with Chiron as a new born baby after
his uncle Pelios seized the Kingdom of Iolcus from Aeson — Jason’s father — and set
about slaughtering the descendants of the deposed king. Chiron educated Jason and saw
him off as the Argo set sail on the quest for the Golden Fleece.
The tutoring of Achilles was entrusted to the centaur as it had been prophecised that, the as
yet unborn Achilles, would become more important and famous than his father Peleus, who
sailed with Jason on his adventures. But the catch was that before this could happen Peleus
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had to marry the Sea Goddess Thetis who, as an immortal, could shape-shift which could
make the union problematic if she refused to be wed.
At this point Chiron galloped to the rescue and advised Peleus to tie-up the goddess when
she landed on Pelion and keep her hobbled till she agreed to marry him. Zeus arranged their
wedding feast on Mount Pelion and issued the wedding invitations but carefully left out
Eris — the Goddess of Discord.
But Eris made a dramatic entrance and rolled a golden apple in amongst the guests bearing
the inscription: ‘To the Fairest’. This certainly created discord as three Goddesses:
Aphrodite, Athena and Hera immediately claimed the apple. To defuse the situation Zeus
appointed Paris of Troy to judge who should win the apple as the God believed the Trojan
to be the most beautiful mortal man alive and therefore the best to make the decision.
Each Goddess offered Paris a bribe to obtain the prized apple but he was only interested in
Aphrodite‘s promise of the most beautiful woman in the world — Helen of Sparta who
would become Helen of Troy when she later abandoned her new husband and fled with
Paris which ignited the Trojan War.
Another Pelion wedding also led to discord and death when the Centaurs were invited to a
wedding reception, got drunk and abused the new wife and guests. This was too much for
Hercules who ejected them and set off in pursuit firing a volley of poison-tipped arrows at
the normally fleet-footed drunks.
Chiron the gentle centaur was standing at his cave minding his own business when one of
the arrows struck him by accident and though he was immortal he was left constantly
wracked in pain. Hercules was distraught at the damage he had inflicted on his mentor who
had taught him archery.
A good guy to the end, Chiron made a deal with Zeus to trade his immortality to halt the
torment inflicted on Prometheus by the God of Gods for stealing fire from Mount Olympus
and gifting it to mortals.
But Zeus showed compassion for Chiron and turned him into a star constellation in the
Southern Hemisphere. The Archer Constellation (Sagittarius) with its distinctive bow and
arrow shape is a possible contender but more favoured is the Centaurus Constellation
discovered by Greek astronomer Ptomely in the 2nd century.
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1) AG IOANNIS HARBOUR
162
39°25'.1N 023°9'.7E
2
1 3
2 4 4
3 2 Fl.G3s
4 2
2
3
5
6
Ag IOANNIS
100 metres
163
Ag Ioannis harbour provides good respite when sailing between cruising grounds, especially
northwards against the prevailing meltemi. The harbour is usually full of smaller craft but
space can be found towards the end of the breakwater. The 50m wide harbour entrance faces
south with navigation lights on the entrance breakwaters Fl.G.3M and Fl.R.3M.
The harbour offers shelter from all winds except easterly and SE and a swell develops in the
harbour with NE winds. You can berth stern-to or alongside the quay to the starboard side on
entering harbour where depths can be deeper than shown on the chart, through dredging, with
reported depth up to 5m all along the EW quay, while near the north quay depths are 3m,
gradually shallowing to 0.5m near the NW corner and shore. The bottom is sandy with good
holding. There’s water at the quay-elbow, a small slip in the NW corner, fuel delivered,
tavernas, provisions, and night-life ashore.
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2) DAMOUCHARIA BAY
DAMOUCHARI
3 8
7
4
4
3
2
70 metres
Damoucharia is a lovely spot and well-worth a visit. The bay appeared in scenes from
Hollywood film Mama Mia and the underwater obstruction in the NW corner of the bay had a
temporary pontoon fitted during filming which has been removed. The singing and dancing
scenes were filmed close-by in a Mouresi olive grove. Despite the breakwater it should be
considered an open bay and alternative anchorage sought if deteriorating weather conditions.
165
3) KATIGIORGOS HARBOUR
Ag Georgios
KATIGEORGIS
s
op
sh
2
2 ferr
1 y
1
3
3 2
2
4
5
6
60 metres 39°10'.2N 023°20'.6E
Katigiorgos is a small fishing harbour about 1 mile south of Ak Sepia on the eastern side of
the Pelion Peninsula. You can get some shelter from the meltemi but, like all the harbours
along this coast, swell creeps-in and they should be avoided unless the weather is settled.
On approach a hairpin-road above the harbour is conspicuous from the south. Go stern or
bow-to on the small quay in the north of the bay or anchor off-the-beach. The quay is quite
often busy with lots of day-tripper boats and you’ll probably have to go stern-to with a line to
the breakwater. There’s provisions and tavernas ashore with good seafood on offer. This is
the nearest mainland port to Skiathos and an ideal location to drop someone off for local
transport or the Volos bus.
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4) PLATANIA HARBOUR
shop
100 metres
tave
rna
1
<1
PLATANIA 2
HARBOUR <1

3 2
3
ry
2
fer
4
4 4 5 3
6 4
10 8
Fl.G3s
39°8'.3N 023°16'.4E
Platania is an open-bay east of Ormos Andriami with the breakwater offering protection from
the meltemi and swell. The village is conspicuous from the south but hard to differentiate
from the coast when approaching from the east. There are usually lots of fishing boats
berthed here and it’s important not to upset them too much. Try to get alongside with your
bows pointing seaward to minimise the swell which sometimes enters.
The best berth is right next to the ferry at the bottom of the quay where marks on the wall
indicate the ferry berth. In the summer a number of ferries and Flying Dolphins operate from
the port so when grabbing an empty space at night remember that in the morning you might
have an angry ferry captain hurrying to berth in his reserved place. If you can’t berth against
the quay it’s OK to anchor in the breakwater lee where you’ll find a muddy bottom and
reasonable holding but keep an eye open for foul patches of chain near the moorings laid to
the west of the breakwater.
Also watch your depth as it’s very shallow with some sunken tree logs close to shore. The
port takes its name from the number of plane trees in the area which provide some welcome
shade. There’s water on the pier with tavernas and small shops ashore and it makes an
excellent lunch-stop to sit and enjoy the scenery and bustle of the busy little harbour.
Platania has a lovely beach but if you fancy a quieter spot and a 15 minute walk along the
coast path you’ll find the superb Mikro Beach to the west which you can also anchor-off with
a gently sloping beach and anchoring in sand. Some shelter exists in a small cove NE of
Platania’s mole. Anchor in 6-7m in sand and weed.
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5) CHONDRI AMMOS BAY
500 metres
20 35 25
80
CHONDRI AMMOS BAY 90

(Andriami)
50
Ak Sarakiniko
quarry
39°7'.0N 023°13'.9E
Ormous Andriami is a large bay on the north of the Evia Channel just 2NM west of Platania.
It’s very easy to find due the very conspicuous marble quarry which scars the slopes at Cape
Sarakiniko and is visible from far out in the Trikeri Channel.
Anchor in the cove at the north of the bay in 5-8m. It’s a dramatic location with steep,
mountainous slopes descending to sea level. You can get reasonable shelter from the meltemi
but it’s open to southerly winds and swell. There are two small bays just east of the main
anchorage where it’s possible for a single yacht to anchor with a shore line in settled
conditions. It’s an isolated spot with just a few fishermen’s cottages and holiday homes but
there’s no provisions to be had so go prepared.
168
6) AY KIRIAKI HARBOUR
rd port police
oat ya 70 metres
b 2
5 1
3 2
10 11 8
5 <1
2
20 17 15
10
20
25
2
KIRIAKI 25
4
HARBOUR
20
Ay Kiriaki (Trikeri) Harbour is located at the SW tip of the Pelion Peninsula in the Volos
Strait. The hill town of Trikeri is conspicuous above the harbour.
The port and bays around these shores are moderately protected from the meltemi but they
are open to southerly as well as westerly winds and the swell created by passing ships and
ferries can prove problematic and the meltemi can also gust down into the harbour. The best
places to anchor are off the boat yard or beside the breakwater that protects the fishing boats.
I would advise using a tripping line for the anchor as there is some ground chain associated
with the moorings here.
It’s possible to land or berth on the ferry quay but would advise stern-to as the wall is rough
and uneven in places. Make sure to leave plenty of room for larger boats and it’s best to get
as near to the corner as possible. Depths on the quay range from 3m at it’s head down to 2m
in the corner. Near the harbour you’ll find some good tavernas and basic provisions.
There’s a boatyard which services the large
local fishing fleet but will also do yacht repairs
and also haul-out yachts on their slips if
needed.
Fantastic views abound from the hill village of
Trikeri and most services can be found there
such as tavernas, supermarket, bakery, post
office and pharmacy. It’s a pretty stiff 5km
169
hike up there and well worth taking the local taxi up and saving the walking for the downhill
leg. A couple of bays to the north of the harbour are ideal for anchoring with Vathy Cove
particularly well-sheltered from meltemi winds and a good swim stop.
170
7) KAVOULIA LIGHTHOUSE
On the eastern side of the Gulf of Volos entrance Cape Kavoulias has a square tapering
conspicuous light tower topped with a green light dome (Fl(3)20s). You can get quite close to
the headland to take photographs of the lighthouse but it shallows quickly so caution is
advised and keep at least 3-4 boat lengths off.
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GULF of VOLOS
23
22
Aegean Sea
21
24 20
Gulf of Volos
Pelion
Peninsula
25 19
27 28
26 29 12 11 18
Lefteris
82 17 Reef
9 10 16
30 13 15
14
nel
han
keri C
c
Ba
y Tri
lou
Pte
Evia
8) Palaio Trikeri Island | 9) Palaio Trikeri Quay | 10) Pithos Bay | 11) Pardhalos Point | 12) Donkey Island | 13) Trikeri Bay |
14) Kotte Village | 15) Zasteni Cove | 16) Vathoudi Bay | 17) Sunsail Base | 18) Milina Bay | 19) Petraki Cove | 20) Affisos
Harbour | 21) Katio Gatsia | 22) Agria Harbour | 23) Volos City Harbour | 24) Nea Agchialos | 25) Sourpis Bay | 26) Ag
Ioannis Bay | 27) Loutraki Cove | 28) Mitzellas Bay | 29) Amaliopolis Harbour | 30) Nies Bay
The Gulf of Volos (Pagasitic Gulf) opens up as you travel north through the Volos Strait
with Ormos Pteleou to the west. The coast is mainly rugged and mountainous except for
areas to the west of the gulf which have rolling hills and low lying ground but the Trikeri
Peninsula is dominated by the heights of Mount Pelion.
Volos Gulf has many attractive deep-water anchorages and harbours suitable for yachts but
there is a restricted navigation area which shouldn’t be entered without permission. The
general area of the gulf is in the Magnesia Prefecture which led to the words magnet and
magnesium after the iron ore found in the region and there certainly does seem to be some
small magnetic anomalies around the area.
Volos was ruled by a power-hungry prince called Pelias who seized the throne from his
brother at Iolchos (ancient Volos) after conquering Skiathos and Skopelos for a short while
from the Minoans who regarded Pelias as a pirate and eventually forced him from the
islands back to Volos.
Pelias became the catalyst for the legend of Jason and the Argonauts. Jason was his deposed
brother’s son and was sent on a quest for the Golden Fleece to stop any possible move by
the son for revenge and to regain his father’s lost kingdom.
The Argo would have sailed all round this area after leaving Volos and along the coast of
Pelion, probably hugging the shoreline, which was customary at the time, rather than facing
the open sea.
After the battle of Pharsala, Julias Caesar chased Pompey all the way to Egypt with the
pursuit forcing Pompey over the mountain range of Pelion and on past the Northern
Sporades. If Caesar had stopped on any of the islands he would probably have been well
received having rid the area of pirates some years earlier.
172
173
8) PALAIO TRIKERI ISLAND
Pardhalos Point
Ak Alexisa
Giorgios
Bay

Ag Sofia PALIO TRIKERI
Bay Ak Pithos
Palio Trikero Pithos Bay
600 metres
Ak Pakhoula
Palaio Trikeri Island is located at the entrance to the Gulf of Volos in the NE of the Volos
Strait. It’s a small but typically Greek fishing village harbour located on its southern coast
with some alternative anchorages found around the island. The harbour is reasonably well
protected from Meltemi although open to southerlies and can be crowded especially at the
height of the season but an anchorage or berth can usually be found.
The ruins of four Byzantine monasteries
testify to the importance of this island as a
religious site and the Agios Ioannis monastery
is still in use and located on top of the hill
above the village. It’s open to the public and
well worth a visit for its views and an insight
into everyday monastery life.
As the rest of the world relaxed with World
War II finally over, Greece was split in two as
civil war raged to decide who would run the
country. During the bitter fighting Britain’s
RAF bombed Communist fighters and the
1950’s ushered in a right-wing government which outlawed Communism. The Rule of the
Colonels lasted until 1974 when press censorship was lifted and regime opponents as well
as communist sympathisers stopped being arrested or disapearing.
174
Palaio Trikeri was used as an internment camp for communist sympathisers with up to 5000
women and children interned on the island and used as forced labour to harvest olive trees
and work on farms. They were held against their will in poor conditions during a dark
period of Greek history which is annually remembered when former detainees and their
descendants make an annual pilgrimage to the island.
175
9) PALAIO TRIKERI QUAY
80 metres
PALIO TRIKERI
taverna

2 1
1 2
5
10
15 10
10
5
23 25 39°9'.1N 023°4'.5E
Palaio Trikeri village sits on the south side of the island and one of my favourite places in the
Gulf of Volos. The harbour can be seen from some distance from the south but is hidden to
eastern and western approaches until opposite the bay which is open and deep with a
straightforward approach.
Two quays are suitable for berthing and a quayed-wall suitable for using a shore line. Go bow
or stern-to on the main quay. Keep clear of the ferry berth, marked with yellow paint, and
leave space on the northern side for local fishing boats.
The island suffers from water shortages and a
water barge usually calls on Sunday and the
main quay has to be vacated when water is
being pumped ashore. However it’s acceptable
to tie onto the barge during this period. You
can use the concrete pier on the NW corner of
the bay but are expected to use the adjoining
taverna.
It’s possible to anchor-off the fishermen’s
cottages at the north of the bay, using a long
line to the shore rings set in concrete but
holiday-home owners tend to complain if too many boats are attached like this for fear of
damaging the small quayside. There’s sufficient room to free-anchor in the bay but, in all
cases, make sure you have plenty of anchor chain paid-out as the bay tends to be rather deep
in the centre.
A water tap behind Skala Taverna is open from 7-8pm each day, There’s two tavernas, cafe
bars and a small shop but no ice, although tavernas often freeze water bottles, good showers
and toilets in the tavernas who also supply bread. Rubbish must be taken off the island which
has a ferry service to Volos. Motor vehicles aren’t allowed and medical facilities are poor and
no mooring charges.
It’s a handy spot to overnight if you are using Evia’s inner passage to head to or return from
the Northern Sporades being only 4NM into the gulf from the Trikeri Channel. And if you
fancy a quick trip to Volos there’s a daily hydrofoil service from the island. Good food and
176
service at Costa’s Taverna with its green awnings and also at Skala Taverna run by Vasillis
and Yannis.
177
10) PITHOS BAY
200 metres 10

2 3
5
PITHOS BAY
4 6
10
8 3
10 39°9'.4N23°5'.1E
Pithos Bay is a small bay east of Palaio Trickeri Village with the best meltemi shelter found
in the bay’s NE corner but the bay is open to the south. Anchor with shore line. Good holding
and suitable as overnight stop with a path leading from the shingle beach to Palaio Trickeri
Village. Remember to carry a torch just in case you linger longer than planned at the
tavernas.
178
11) PARDHALOS POINT
39°10'.1N 023°4'.7E
4
10
2
AK PARDHALOS

15
10
14 9
10 9
7 Ag Giorgios Cove
3 4
200 metres
Pardhalos Point and Ag Georgios Bay are

located at the north end of Palaio Trikeri Island
with the bay having several smaller inlets
suitable for anchoring. A nice spot, but
exposed to northerly meltemi winds so it’s
usually a poor choice as an overnight location
unless southerlies are forecast. Approach the
bay from the NE to avoid the reef extending
400m from Pardhalos Point. Also watch out for
a couple of isolated rocks on either side of the bay, as indicated, but the channel centre is
clear of dangers. If approaching the bay from the NW make sure to clear Pardhalos Reef
which extends underwater for 400m from Pardhalos Point with a rock awash 60-70m from
the point so caution must be exercised and close attention paid to depth and speed.
Under the right circumstances it’s possible to manoeuvre a yacht with 1.8m draught between
Pardhalos Point and the rock. You pass over the reef and shallows to around 2 - 2.5metres
depth. Exercise extreme caution if doing this and it may be necessary to steer your keel
around underwater rocks so without local knowledge don’t attempt it. Anchor in any of the
small coves where there’s reasonable holding on sand but ensure your anchor bites through
the weed. There are no facilities in the bay but a path leads to the overlooking monastery and
village on the island’s south side.
179
12) PITHOU ISLET (Donkey Islet)
80 metres 10
80
PITHOU ISLAND
10
50
10
5
10
10 5
10
50 20

39°10'.5N 023°2'.9E
Donkey Islet has a horseshoe bay suitable for

anchoring on its SW side. Approach the bay
from the south to avoid the reef extending from
the bay’s northwest tip. Don’t be tempted to
cut between Psathion Rock and the island
because of reefs and some rocks. It’s an
excellent lunch stop and possible overnight
opportunity in settled conditions with good
holding in sand and mud around 5m. You
might get the opportunity to meet Pericles the
island’s resident donkey Pericles who shot to
cyber celebrity with his own Facebook page
and fan club — Pirate Donkey. Other than
Pericles or possibly one of his decendants
you’ll be able to relax in total peace and
isolation.
180
181
13) TRIKERI BAY
2
las
60
khi
60
Tra
TRIKERI
35 15
Ak
BAY 20
85 Ak
M 17
ar
70 35 at
hi
a
55
Kotte 80
35
45 Ak
Va
thi
1 mile
39°7.'6N 023°7'.7E
Trikeri Bay is deep and runs SW into the Trikeri Peninsula with Kotte Village a calm-
weather anchorage only being open to meltemi winds. Approach to the bay is through deep
water between Dhrepano Point to the west and Marathia Point in the east.
Avoid cutting too close to the southern end of
Prassouthas Island when approaching from the
NE as a reef extends from its southern cape.
Trikeri Bay is worth the detour and a great spot
with fantastic scenery under the mountains.
The bay’s SW corner has a marble quarry
unsuitable for anchoring but there are some
temporary anchorages on the bay’s west side.
182
14) KOTTE VILLAGE
5
2
KOTTE
VILLAGE
<1
10
4
2 5
14
<1 Trikeri Bay
7
2
10
150 metres
39°6.'8N 023°5.'9E
Kotte is a tiny fishing village with excellent scenery and consists of a handful of houses on
the western coast of Ormos Trikeri. The bay is open to meltemi winds which tend to ease as
evening falls and give a peaceful night. Approach Ormos Trikeri from the Gulf of Volos and
make towards the SW corner with a radio mast is visible above the harbour. Depths tend to be
shallow and it’s best to free-anchor or take a line ashore from 2-3 boat lengths off the
coastline. Best meltemi shelter can be found approx 300m from the harbour quay in a small
inlet which is also useful if harbour space is tight. You can anchor bow or stern-to on the
small quay in front of the taverna but depths are restrictive and the quay is heavily used by
local fishermen. Water is available from a public tap at the pier end. Excellent seafood from
the local tavernas courtesy of the daily fishing fleet catch.
183
15) ZASTENI COVE
39°7'.6N 023°9'.6E
15 20
ZASTENI COVE 15
5
5
© Delphinus Publishing Ltd 10
5
5
2
300 metres
Zasteni Cove is located just under 1 mile SE of

Ak Marathea with an anchorage suitable for 1
yacht in an idyllic setting. The bay is open to the NW so it’s only suitable in calm weather
conditions but a good place to head to when the wind drops-off. Anchor in 4-5m in sand and
weed. From a distance it may be difficult to see the anchorage and you must be close-in
before the cove opens up and reveals its secluded location 39° 7.73'N 23° 9.57'E
184
16) VATHOUDHI BAY
39°10'.1N 023°12'.7E
VATHOUDI BAY
60 30
80
70
45
A Kapri 20
70
Milina
60
Milina
63 40 Harbour
20

65
20 shoals 20
Alatas
50 Island
35
40
32 Sunsail Base
35
2 10
25 32
27 Mavri Petra
3 2
2 4 30 28
3 5
1 16
2
5
Boat Yard
1 mile
Vathoudhi Bay is set in a beautiful location and is a breathtaking gem in the Gulf of Volos
with lots of berthing and anchoring spots. It’s tucked away in the gulf’s SE corner and almost
landlocked by Trikeri Peninsula in the east and Atlatas Island on the west which offer
adequate all-round protection from meltemi winds which tend to pick up around lunchtime
and funnel over the dip in the hills from the SE down the main channel from the north.
Normal approach is from the north leaving Ak Kapri on Atlatas Island to starboard and the
town of Milina, with its conspicuous church dome and towers, to port. The main channel has
centre depths of 35-40m and is easily navigable at night although there are no lights. The
southerly route into the bay is approached round the southern end of Atlatas Island. Caution
is required as it shallows to around 3m. There are also shoals extending from the SE tip of
Atlatas Island and unmarked rocks so unless you have a very shallow draft vessel this route
should be avoided. It also requires calm conditions and local knowledge.
Vathoudhi Bay’s main anchorage lies to the SE of Atlatas Island around Mavri Petra and its
tavernas which are 2Km south of Milina. You can anchor in the east or SE side of the bay.
Depths in the centre are 25-30m while closer inshore they range from 5-10m. The bottom is
partly sandy with weed and mud. In fact, the bay is thought to have taken its name from
valtos — Greek for mud. I’ve had difficulty on occasion getting good holding in and around
the moorings in the eastern part of the bay and it may take a couple of attempts. There’s good
anchorage in the two coves opposite the south end of Atlatas Island but pay attention to
depths and approach in the middle of the channel as shoals and rocks abound in the area.
There are also good anchorages on Atlatas Island’s western side in around 3-5m with
relatively good holding in mud and weed.
185
186
17) SUNSAIL BASE
39°9'.3N 023°12'.6E
Milina 1km
SUNSAIL
BASE
2
1 Showers Sunsail
moorings Base
wc
2

4
3 3 Gibraltar
6 Taverna
20 3
Shop
4
20
100 metres Trikeri
15
You can temporarily berth alongside the Sunsail Pontoon which provides the best shelter in
the whole bay. Enquire with base staff to make sure a berth is available as the base can get
very busy and must be vacated from Thursdays to Saturdays when charter yachts are turned
around. The jetty hammer-head is lit 2Fl.G(vert). Water and electricity is available for a small
charge with lots of lazy lines from the pontoon as the water is too deep for anchoring.
Towards the south of the bay there’s a small boatyard which the Sunsail Fleet use as hard
standing and yachts can be hauled out for emergency repairs if necessary.
The family-run Gibraltar Taverna at the
Sunsail Base offers some of the best traditional
Greek cuisine in the area. Costa and daughter
Marianthi also produce and distill Tsiporo a
local form of ouzo from their own vineyards
which I can highly recommend. A mini-market
is attached to the taverna and there are hot
showers on the beach. The Pelion Full Moon
Regatta is held from the Sunsail Base around
the August full moon and it’s the best fun
regatta I’ve ever experienced. But having taken
line honours in 2008 and 2009 I’m just a little biased ☺
187
18) MILINA HARBOUR
39°10'.0N 023°13'.0E

2
2
3
3 MILINA <1
HARBOUR
4 50 metres
3
Milina is fairly busy and the sunsets looking out over the Volos Gulf are outstanding. There’s
a bit of a buzz at night but compared to the mass tourist destinations it really is restrained.
The Harbour has undergone renovation with space for yachts to go alongside or stern-to when
it gets busy. There’s an excellent cafe bar at the head of the quay which is well worth a visit.
If the harbour is busy it’s possible to anchor off the breakwater and take a line ashore.
Opposite Milina is the olive-covered Atlatas Islet where the old monastery of Agia Saranta
(40 Saints) is sited and like many Greek Orthodox churches and monasteries it played an
important role in organising Greek resistance during the 1821 revolt against Turkish
domination.
On a hilltop SW of Milina are thought to be the ruins of the ancient city of Olizon, whose
King Philoctetes took part in the Trojan War, according to Homer’s Iliad, along with 350
oarsmen plus archers and seven ships.
Philoctetes was a noted archer and when Hercules built his funeral pyre after being
poisoned by the Shirt of Nessus the only person prepared to set it ablaze was Philoctetes and
for this favour Hercules gave him his famous bow and poisoned arrows. Olizon’s exact
location has been lost in the mists of time as has the story of Philoctetes but from the
fragmentary myths that remain Philoctetes was apparently one of the unsuccessful suitors
for the hand of Helen of Troy, the most beautiful woman in the known world who went on
to slay her lover Paris whom she deserted her husband for.
188
189
19) PETRAKI COVE
39°10'.9N 023°13.1E
20

PETRAKI COVE
10 5
10
100 metres
Petraki Cove, 0.5nm north of Milina, offers excellent shelter from the meltemi. Anchor in 5m
on mud, sand and weed but the cove is open to the NW. It’s a great swim stop with a small
shingle beach and fine for overnighting with space for 2/3 yachts to swing at anchor or to go
bow or stern-to with lines ashore tied to rocks. You can get a yacht’s nose into the smaller
rocky inlet just to the north of Petraki’s main cove which is recognisable by a house sitting
just above it on the hillside. There’s similar holding to the main inlet in 3-4m.
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20) AFFISOS HARBOUR
AFFISOS 80 metres
<1 <1
1 sl
1 ip
<1
2
<1
3
2
1
5
2
39°16'.3N 023°9'.7E © Delphinus Publishing Ltd 4
Affisos is a lovely village located in an amphitheatre setting with its houses climbing up the
hillside on the eastern side of the Gulf of Volos about half-way along the Pelion Peninsula. It
provides excellent shelter from meltemi winds but is vulnerable to westerly and southerly
winds but in good conditions it’s a great place for lunch.
A small concrete pier is located directly in front of the village square and you can moor bow
or stern-to it’s end but you can also anchor-off in approx 10m on a sandy bottom with
reasonable holding. The fishing quay in the NW corner of the bay is primarily for use by
shallow draught fishing boats and it’s too shallow for yachts. Affisos can only be
recommended as an overnight stop during settled conditions. There are several small
supermarkets, tavernas, bars and cafes and the small town square is shaded by trees making it
a pleasant and relaxing spot. And if you want a spot of beach lounging then it’s a case of
being spoiled for choice with a number of sandy stretches with crystal-clear water to the
north and south of Affisos.
The village is said to be linked to Jason and his epic mythological quest to find the Golden
Fleece and it’s claimed the leader of the Argonauts stopped there to take-on water before
heading to Colchis where the fleece hung in a sacred grove. Although Colchis is located in
present day Georgia it’s worth remembering that back in the mists of time that Colchis was
located on the very periphery of the world known to the Ancients. I’ve never quite
understood why Jason needed the water at Affisos as he had just arrived from his starting
point near Volos 25Km away unless it was the lure of crystal clear water straight from the
mountain slopes of Mount Pelion. I also wonder about the tale that Jason abandoned
Hercules at Affisos by telling him to go to the village square to draw water from the well
and then sailed for Colchis in the Argos.
Maybe it isn’t a tale dreamt up by the local tourist organisation as Afissos apparently is
named from Afiso which is Greek for: leave behind. The alternative story that Hercules left
the ship at Mysia, on the Sea of Marmara, in search of his friend Hylas — who went
looking for a holy stream and was abducted by a water nymph who drew him into her
fountain — better fits the timing and plot of the epic tale written by Apollonius. Quite
simply, the abandonment of Hercules at Afissos is too soon in the voyage and would never
191
have allowed the weaving of the intricate web of sub-plots in the epic Argonautica poem
written by Apollonius, which were designed to show Jason was a better leader of the
Argonauts than Hercules because mission success relied on much more than just the brute
strength and the individualism of Hercules. Wherever the truth lies, Hercules disappears
from the Golden Fleece quest after Mysia.
After his many adventures Jason eventually found his fleece and returned home to Iolchos
but it didn’t do him much good but that’s another tale. He eventually came to a sticky end
as an old man visiting the wreckage of the Argo in Corinth, where he had moved to, when a
wooden beam from the old ship fell on his head and killed him instantly.
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21) KATO GATSIA
KATO GATSIA
1
2
1
3
2
3
3 4
2
2 5 6
50 metres 39°18'.5N 023°6'.1E
Kato Gatsia is a small fishing harbour which is usually crowded with local boats and in calm
weather you can anchor-off in 3-5m on sand. You’ll find limited provisions and tavernas
ashore but it’s another lovely spot with lots of choice in beaches. In Greek Kato means lower
which describes its sea level location. Ano (Higher) Gatsia is the village on the hillside
overlooking Volos Gulf and is surrounded by olive groves with a small museum explaining
traditional olive oil production. Some gentle walking soon takes you into the hills with
rewarding views over the Gulf of Volos.
Ano Gatsia is also one of the stops on the old Pelion Steam Train narrow-gauge line and if
you’re a train buff or just want an unusual experience then take a trip through the slopes of
Mount Pelion. Construction of the steam train begain in 1894 and eventually it covered
29Km from Volos to Milies Village. But as the road network developed the train went into
decline and ceased in the 1970’s.
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Increased tourism in recent years has seen the train known locally as Moutzouris (Smudgy)
make a comeback and it now runs between Ano Lehonia and Milies Villages and it’s a
breathtaking experience with stone and iron bridges as well as tunnels cutting through the
rocky landscape. It runs every Saturday, Sunday and on public holidays from mid-April to
the end of October and every day during July and August. And for real enthusiasts you
could always visit the The Railroad Museum of Thessalyat at Volos Railway Station.
194
22) AGRIA HARBOUR
400 metres
old pier AGRIA

2

7 5 2
2
8
12
4
3 2
39°20'.2N 023°0'.6E
Agria is large bay a couple miles ESE of Volos which is fairly exposed but there’s a small
fishing harbour where you might be able to find a berth. Entrance depth is 2-3m and it’s
possible to go stern-to on the outside of the breakwater. Alternatively anchor in reasonable
holding to the east of the old pier in 4-6m.
Unless you have very settled conditions it isn’t suitable for overnighting especially not with
the proximity of Volos (3.5NM) and Ag Konstantinos (0.25NM). Agria was once a stop on
the Pelion Steam Railway line and the old station is still standing having been faithfully
rebuilt following an earthquake. It makes an unusual picture opportunity and back home I
doubt if anyone would correctly guess its former use.
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23) VOLOS CITY HARBOUR
3 VOLOS HARBOUR
7
3
8 5
2 private

12 5
3 marina
10
6 12 10
5
1 15 10
16
20
10
16
1 mile 20 25
39°20'.8N 022°56'.9E
Volos City Harbour is easily located by travelling northwards, as far as you can go, in the
Gulf of Volos. There’s a very conspicuous large cement factory and quarry on a headland on
the east side of the approach. Traveling further northward you come across a breakwater in
the west of the channel and then the long harbour wall breakwater to the east. Regardless of
the gradient wind direction the afternoon fresh breeze always seems to set from a southerly
direction but he harbour offers excellent all-round shelter.
The main town quay has mostly local boats with lazy lines and must be carefull to avoid
ground chain when using your anchor. I’ve always found space on the visitor pontoon and
inside the main harbour breakwater. Other pilots suggest that the pontoon and main harbour
wall are insecure berths due to its dual purpose as a youth hang-out. Personally I’ve never
had any trouble here. The visitor pontoon is located behind the main one-mile-long harbour
breakwater. There’s a small marina for local boats near Ay Konstandinos Church to the NE
before you enter the main harbour.
There’s a family-run boatyard at Pafkakia south of the main harbour which is a good place to
leave a yacht for an extended period. Volos is an important commercial harbour handling
mostly bulk containers. The 1954 and 1955 Earthquakes flattened a large part of the city and
harbour which was rebuilt giving it a modern feel.
Jason and the Argonauts set sail from Iolkos, the ancient city which was subsumed into
modern-day Volos, and a commemorative bronze statue stands in the square by the harbour.
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His ship the Argo was built locally at Pagasae, the port city for Iolkos now a modern-day
suburb of Volos, using pine trees from Mount Pelion shaped by Argus the boat-builder. A
piece of wood taken from the sacred oak tree at the Dodona Oracle of Zeus was provided by
the Goddess Athena and built into the prow and had the power of speech and prophecy
making. I often wonder if it was this piece that eventually killed the builder.
Alexander the Great wanted to conquer the known world and began a campaign of
domination in 334BC which was a continuation of his father’s dream. Local men, fueled by
the glamour and spoils of war and travel to mystical foreign lands, must have joined the
conqueror’s army and memorial tablet exists to one young Volos soldier who followed
Alexander the Great in his exploits which saw him conquer the Persian Empire and reign
supreme from the Adriatic to the Indus River. But his troops were war-weary and after
invading India in 326BC demanded a return home from the ends of the world. In 323BC
Alexander died at Babylon and several years later his empire had collapsed in a series of
civil wars involving his descendants and former generals. I am minded to reflect: Sic transit
gloria mundi.
All the facilities of a large town are available: Port Police, port of entry customs and
immigration. Fuel from mini-tanker, repairs, chandlers, night-life, markets, museums,
tavernas, ouzeries, mezedes, an M&S and the Harbour Master’s office. The local airport,
with flights to cities in various European countries including the UK, lies some 30 Km SW
of Volos on the E75 and is easily reached by bus and taxi. A train connection to Volos
station is planned to be opened in 2013 from the airport at Nea Agchialos. Volos also has
bus and railway links to Athens and ferry links to the Northern Sporades.
Volos is the 5the largest Greek City and 3rd largest port and helped host the 2004 Olympic
Games with the waterfront area getting a welcome makeover. It’s beyond the scope of this
book to even attempt to detail the rich archeology of the area built on the ancient cities of
Demetrias, Pagasae and Iolkos with a history stretching back to Neolithic Times; Mycanean
Beehive (Tholos) Tombs circa 4000-1200 BC; and remains of the oldest discovered Greek
Acropolis dated at 6,000 BC. A museum, towards the SE of the city, has many interesting
artefacts.
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24) NEA ANCHIALOS
100 metres
<1
1.5
1.8 <1
1
2
2 <1
NEA

AGCHIALOS
2
3 1
3
Fl.Y
1
39°16'.4N 022°49'.3E
Nea Anchialos fishing harbour is as far west as you can go in the Gulf of Volos. The entrance
is tricky to spot until close-in when you’ll see some rocks and a half-submerged breakwater
with a small, circular fishing harbour entered by a narrow channel. There’s room for a few
yachts on the quay’s outer-end with 2-2.5m depth. There’s enough protection to make Nea
Anchialos comfortable against meltemi winds but the channel and basin are shallow at 1-
1.5m. It’s a reasonable stop with beaches for swimming, provisions and tavernas nearby as
well as the airport serving Volos. The road running beside the harbour is busy but it’s worth
crossing as the ancient ruins of Pyrassos are just on the other side.
The harbour is within the military restricted area in the Gulf of Volos because of the Greek
airforce presence at Nea Anchialos but I’ve never had any problem when spending a few
hours there. You are meant to get permission via VHF and the same goes for a large chunk of
Mitzellas Bay and also Amaliapolis Harbour. However the rule appears to be more honoured
in the breach than observance although the Greeks are sensitive around military installations
and I find it politic never to take pics of anything vaguely military just to be safe.
Pyrassos was mentioned by Homer in the Iliad as fighting in the war against Troy. The
ancient town had a temple to the goddess Demeter and excavations have shown the area
was peopled in Neolithic Times. Nea (New) Anchialos was founded by Greeks in 1906 who
were fleeing from Pomorie in modern Bulgaria after the unification of that country in 1886.
The Greeks had colonised Pomorie in the 5th CBC and named it Anchialos meaning near
the sea.
198
25) SOURPIS BAY
39°11'.2N 022°51'.7E 30
10
18 25 Ak 10
Ts
a lou
SOURPIS BAY ko
u
18
21
10
5 boat
Loutraki yard
17
Fl.G3s Bay 14
7
5
10
factory Ak
Fl.R4s Tag
ana
Tsingeli
5
factory
s
10
Fl.G2
factory 7
8 5
2s Ag Ioannis
Fl.R
3 0s Bay
l.Y1
F 3
factory
2 Fl.Y10s
1 0.5 miles
The west side of Ormos Sourpis has large factory complexes with storage tanks, gantries and
several long jetties. Not a very pretty place but one of the most sheltered on this side of the
Gulf of Volos.
26) AY IOANNIS COVE
Ay Ioannis Cove is located just to the south of Loutraki Cove and much of the bay is shallow
with the industrial jetty and factory limiting space and more industrial views to the west. But
there’s really good shelter to be found from both the meltemi and SE winds which makes-up
for the industrialised land and seascape in poor weather.
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27) LOUTRAKI COVE
39°10'.8N 022°54'.0E
Ak Almtrou
Ak
Ak Tsaloukou Periklis
5
Almiros Peninsula

radio
mast Varoutsiko Cove
Ay
Nicolaos
Mitzellas
Bay
5
Loutraki boat
Cove yard
kn
locwled
o
5
al ge
5
Amiliapolis
0.5 miles
A sheltered cove on the west side of the Almiros Peninsula and though open to the west it
doesn’t normally blow from that direction and the view to the west across Sourpis Bay is
terrible. Anchor at the head of cove in 4-6m with excellent bottom holding. A boatyard on the
north side of the bay can haul yachts ashore for repairs.
28) MITZELLAS BAY
Mitzellas Bay is located on the western side of the Gulf of Volos and the small island of Ay
Nikoloas at the bay entrance offers some protection from the meltemi. The bay also offers
good protection from SE winds but should be avoided in strong N and NE winds.
A radio mast located on the hill just north of the town, on the Almiros Peninsula, is
conspicuous from a distance. Approaches from the north are straightforward via the large and
deep channel north of Ay Nicolaos. An alternative approach can be made from the south by
making passage between the southern end of Ay Nicolaos and the mainland. This channel is
narrow and depths reduce to 3m in places so I wouldn’t recommend using it without local
knowledge. It’s also worth noting that the island, which has a monastery on its southern end,
is low-lying and not conspicuous against the mainland when coming from the east.
Different anchorages are available in the bay with the best-protected spot south of Ay
Nicolaos Island where space can usually be found between existing moorings. Varoutsiko
Cove north of Amaliapolis can be used during flat clam conditions but is susceptable to swell
from passing ferries.
200
29) AMALIAPOLIS HARBOUR
port
p
suo olice
erm
arke
4
moorings
AMALIAPOLIS
t beach shower
5
HARBOUR
6
<1
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2
F.G.
trip
3
2 5
4
2 3 4
Shop
tav
2
ern
as
80 metres
39°10.'1N 022°53'.4E
Amaliapolis is a small town on the western side of the Gulf of Volos, sitting in the Bay of
Mitzellas. There’s two quays available for berthing and plenty of space to free-anchor in the
bay with a depth range of 3-5m near the town and adequate holding on sand. The main
harbour, located just north of the town, usually has berths available on the seaward side with
depths ranging from 2.5 to 4m along the outside of the breakwater. Go stern-to with plenty of
anchor chain and leave a decent gap between the yacht’s stern and quay wall as passing ferry
traffic can produce swell. The bay has some exposure to the NE and if northerly winds are
forecast it’s advisable to run springs from the bow to the quay as swell building-up can
become uncomfortable.
Inside the quay it gets shallow and busy with local boats but space might be had. There are
chains and ropes in the inner harbour and you must be prepared to enter the water and free
your anchor before departure. Be sure to leave plenty of space for the Elizabeth Cruise boats
that that use the head of the quay. It’s possible to go bow-to on the smaller quay near the
tavernas but it’s shallow and only 1.8m at its head. Remember there’s an alternative
overnight anchorage located in the bay’s SE corner and at Varoutsiko Cove a half-mile north
of the main harbour which offers some protection from light meltemi winds.
There’s water on both quays and several tavernas in Amaliopolis. One has a small dance floor
above it with a good pool table and it’s always keen to accommodate seafarers. Facilities
include mini-markets, cafe, bakery and Port Police. Water at two positions on the main quay
and also on the smaller one with electricity possibly available, in an emergency, from
Elizabeth Cruises on the main quay and 500 yards from there you’ll find a fuel station. East
of the smaller harbour jetty the beach is buoyed-off for swimming. Things are fairly quiet in
Amaliopolis and it’s good for relaxing.
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30) NIES BAY
39°7'.9N 022°55'.4E
40
30

NIES 3
5
BAY
24
5
Nies
4
500 metres
Nies Bay is located north of Peghadi Bay on the western entrance to the Gulf of Volos and
the entrance is easily spotted from the north if sailing down the coast from Mitzellas Bay.
Again, like Mitzellas, it’s not so easy to recognise from the east although the 1,000ft high-
spot of Mount Klimos sitting just south of Nies, behind Cape Klimos, helps identify the bay.
A tucked-in yacht can shelter from moderate meltemi winds in a cove just inside the eastern
side of Nies Bay, which runs to the south by anchoring in 5m on sand with mud patches with
a line ashore if needed. It’s another bay which is susceptible to swell when Northerlies get-up
and if it becomes too uncomfortable or the meltemi is blowing hard then head to the bay’s SE
corner. The wind tends to gust over a col on the mountain ridge but it’s little more than a
nuisance and there’s good holding on mud. There’s a small fishing boat jetty and some
moorings and you have to keep an eye open for a couple of rocky patches as indicated on the
chartlet.
There’s a camp-site in the bay’s SW corner and some villas running up the bay’s west coast
between it and the road but otherwise facilities are non-existant with just a bit of a beach at
the head of the bay handy for swimming and sunbathing although a lot of the coastline is
rocky. I’ve never found the Bay crowded although there are lots of small jetties for local
boats scattered around the head of the bay. It’s a good spot for some relaxation before sailing
out of Volos Gulf to Evia, Aegean Pelion or the Northern Sporades or even heading to the
Port of Volos which is most certainly livelier.
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MAINLAND COAST (PTELOU BAY — AG KONSTANTINOS)
31) PTELEOU BAY
© Delphinus Publishing Ltd 39°1'.8N 023° 0'.0E
Ac
hil
les Pigadhi
To Cape Pigadhi
we
r (Toad Rock)
Loutro
dros
Khon
e
PTELOU BAY Cap
Cape Achilleon
Akhillion
31) Ptelou Bay | 32) Pigadhi | 33) Akhelion | 34) Loutro Cove | 35) Aryonissos Island | 36) Glifa | 37) Vathikelou Bay | 38)
Ag Konstantinos
Ormos Pteleou is a large bay on the west side as you enter the Volos Strait. To enter Pteleou
Bay pass between Ak Pigadhi to the north and Ak Khondhros in the south. The bay has been
developed on the north side with holiday homes and villas but it’s still a very attractive area.
There are several anchorages in the bay offering varying degrees of protection from meltemi
winds which tend to get funnelled down the inlet.
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32) PIGADHI
50 metres
2 3
shop
2 6
3 PIGADHI

7
3
5
2
4
10
6
4
2
39°2'.1N 022°58'.7E
Pigadhi is a pleasant spot with some traditional appeal. It’s located on the north shore of
Ormos Pteleou and has moderate meltemi shelter. There’s a small quay you are encouraged
to go alongside but leave one side clear for fishing boats and be prepared for others to raft
against you. I wouldn’t advise going stern-to as the wind creeps into bay the wrong way for
this type of berthing and creates a tendency to drag anchor. You can berth bow-to on the
promenade quay and a new dogleg quay has been built with berthing spaces available
between resident boats.
Near Pigadhi you can explore a number of sandy beaches and small coves. Free anchor on the
bay’s east side in 6m on sand and weed. I would suggest eating in Mata’s Taverna for
authentic Greek cuisine cooked by Mata whose son Christos runs the restaurant. Christos is
definitely the go-to guy in Pigadhi for yachtsmen looking for assistance or just information
and he has added toilet and shower facilities at the restaurant. Village facilities are fairly
basic with a small shop and bakery and fresh fruit which appears most mornings. A rock at
Ak Pigadhi is called Toad Rock due to its uncanny resemblance to the amphibian. Other
pilots suggests a dangerous underwater reef extends from Toad Rock. I have sailed the area
often and not found anything particularly hazardous and regularly pass 2-3 boat lengths from
the rock. However, as always, I advise proceeding with caution.
Pigadhi is reputed to be the spot where Achilles set sail with 300 ships for Troy and the
conspicuous Achilles Tower, standing on the hill west of the harbour, commemorates the
epic adventure. A road and path leads to the summit with excellent views over the entire
area. The whole fleet eventually consisted of well over a thousand ships and sailed from
Pigadhi past Skiathos and Skopelos on its way to Troy and created wonder and amazement
among the thousands of shore watchers on the route. It’s easy sitting beside the tower,
relaxing with a drink after the exertions of the 50 minute walk getting there, and let yourself
drift back in time to the momentous events which were set in motion and rocked most of the
known world through the passions generated over Helen of Troy and her beauty.
204
205
33) AKHILLION BAY
© Delphinus Publishing Ltd 39°0'.4N 022°57'.8E
2
AKHILLIO
12
17
2
10
8 8
6 2
2 2
2
300 metres
The anchorage directly off the village of Akhillion is exposed to the meltemi and this coupled
with the confused swell that builds and bounces off the town’s promenade can make
overnight anchoring very uncomfortable and somtimes untenable when the meltemi is
blowing hard. Best to get a berth behind the small breakwater and quay which are normally
quite quiet.
Akhillion is understated and I’ve always found
space and enjoyed the little town and found it
very pleasant to spend some time in. The small
circular fishing harbour is too shallow for
yachts although it might be possible to get a
shallow draft vessel anchored in the middle.
There’s only a few tavernas in Akhillion but
they are very tradtional and some even come
with the butchers attached. Just NW of the
town before Cape Akhillion there’s an
anchorage which could be used to overnight in
calm conditions.
34) LOUTRO BAY
Loutro Bay is open to SE winds and you should only anchor for the night if you are certain
the wind won’t back. If you have to move the best place to head for is Akhillion. The best
meltemi shelter can be had under the Tower of Achilles but the holding tends to be rocky so
make sure your anchor has a grip. At the head of the inlet to the west you’ll find better
holding in sand and mud. There’s a beach bar and taverna on the small beach so it’s a good
swim-stop.
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35) ARYIONISOS ISLAND
80
10 15
ARYIONISOS
50 14
Fl.5s16M
local
70 knowledge
Pier
80
500 metres 5 60
At the eastern end of the Orei Strait, where it joins the Trikeri Strait, lies Aryonisos Island
which is easily identified by the white lighthouse on its eastern flank (Fl.5s.36m.16M) sitting
conspicuously on a cliff top.
The island, just south of the Volos Gulf entrance, lies close to the mainland on its northern
side from which it is separated by shallow-water and rocks. Some pilot books tell you not to
pass north of the island because of the rocky reef but there’s a perfectly safe passage as long
as care is taken. Aryionisis is in private hands as is the small pier built on the islands’s south
coast and you aren’t allowed to land. Best anchorage is close-in just to the SE of the pier as
depth quickly increases just off the shore. This spot provides some protection from easterlies.
You’ll find a mainland anchorage just to the east of Cape Stavros where you can anchor off
the beach with reasonable holding in sand and mud around 6m. There’s better meltemi shelter
than provided on Aryironisis and it’s a good swim stop and possible to overnight in the right
conditions with a campsite nearby.
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36) GLIFA
90 metres
ferry ramps
ferry ramps <1
<1 <1
<1 2
1 2
2
5 4
3 GLYFA 3 4
4 5
5
7
8 38°57'.0N 022°58'.0E
Glifa is located in the middle of the Orei Strait and is the ferry port for Evia’s most northern
route to Ayio Campos (Agiocambos) but it can get busy with large vessels so you have to
keep a good look-out for them as they can come up on you very quickly. The port can be
located by just observing the ferry traffic and also because it sits below the distinctive 2000ft
conical peak of Mount Tragovouni. It’s possible to find a temporary berth on the pier but
always remember that other traffic uses the quay so you must be be ready to move your
yacht, if necessary, as commercial users have priority.
The bay is open and subject to ferry and meltemi-generated swell although Cape Ag Sostis
provides a little protection from the prevaling winds. Most yachts drop anchor in front of the
village or the cove lying just to the SE of it. You can anchor off-the-beach on sand in 5m —
west of the harbour or to seaward off the fishing harbour walls. But during the busy season
anchoring east of the harbour is restricted because of the bouyed-off swimming area and local
moorings although further to the east is the inlet mentioned above. There’s water on the quay
and fuel by mini-tanker with provisions available in the village as well as a few cafes and
tavernas.
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37) VATHIKELON BAY
0.5 miles
15
VATHIKELON
BAY 10
20
5
35
60
Ay Nikolaos
5 38°55.'9 022°56'.7E
Ormous Vathikelon is a very sheltered bay in any wind and you can anchor and take lines
ashore to trees on the inlet’s eastern side. But stay close to the small-boat moorings as the the
ferries from Glyfa shelter in that part of the bay as well and often overnight there.
Coming up the Orei Channel from the south Ay Nikolaos Island lies just before the entrance
to Vathikelon Bay. The islet is easily identified by its white painted church and can be passed
on either side. From the north the bay is identifiable from the red and white radio mast on its
NE headland. There’s an unmarked rock-awash just inside the bay some 20m off the NE
headland which is dangerous and should be avoided although it’s worth identifying the
location and approaching the inner bay favouring the centre or SW of the channel entrance.
It’s a really secluded spot with no facilities and despite the minor road linking the almost
land-locked bay to nearby Glifa I’ve never found it too busy. If you seek an even quieter spot
for a dip then head 1NM SW of Vathikelon Bay and you’ll find a small cove with a sandy
beach at its head. There’s reasonable holding around 4-5m in sand but there are also weed
patches. There’s exposure to the meltemi so be prepared to move as the day progresses and
the wind gets up.
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38) AGIOS KONSTANTINOS
ferry Agios
Konstantinos
ay
8
rical qu
ferry
comme
10

4
5 25
10
1 5
30
2 4
70 metres 38°45'.4N 022°51'.6E
Agios Konstantinos is a busy mainland ferry port serving the Northern Sporades including:
Skiathos, Skopelos and Alonissos Islands with a summer link to to Ag Giorgos which sits
opposite on Evia Island. It’s a handy spot if you are picking crew up who have travelled from
Athens (165km away) or dropping them off after a sailing holiday.
The ferry quay is totally open to the meltemi and the tiny fishing harbour, just south of the
quay, is shallow with depths inside under 2m so it really isn’t an ideal spot unless the weather
is favourable when you could anchor-off the mole in 5m. The ferry trade has seen a growth in
tavernas and minimarkets
The area was a walled fortified settlement with the important harbour of Dafnountas in
ancient times although it was destroyed by a huge earthquake and tidal wave which not only
destroyed most houses but caused many to sink beneath the sea. The new town nestles at the
foot of Mount Knemis and took its name from the imposing looking Agios Konstantinos (St
Constantine) Church which was built on top of an earlier Byzantine place of worship. The
square beside the church is a nice place to sit and have a beer shaded by plane trees.
Homer recounts in his Iliad how a local leader sailed from the old port of Dafnountas with 40
ships to fight in the Trojan War but was killed at Troy by Hector the heir of King Priam and
leader of the Trojan armies. In turn, Hector was slain by Achilles who dragged him behind
his chariot for 12 days before the Gods intervened and Achilles returned the corpse to King
Priam for burial. As he died Hector made a prophecy that he would be followed by Achilles
who then died from an ankle wound caused by a poisoned arrow fired by Paris, the younger
brother of Hector.
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EVIA ISLAND
8
7
9
6
3 4 5
10
1
2 11
12
Evia
Mainland
Greece 13
1) Loutra Adhipso | 2) Likhades Channel | 3) Agiocambos | 4) Nea Pirgos | 5) Orei | 6) Ifalos Oreon Reef | 7) Pefki Harbour |
8) Pondikonisi Island | 9) Pasarapouli Harbour | 10) Paralia Ag Anna | 11) Mantoudi | 12) Pili | 13) Kymi
Evia is the second largest island in Greece with a fascinating history. In mythology,
Poseidon the Sea God, wanted a peaceful life for himself and his new wife and when he
couldn’t find somewhere quiet enough he took the drastic step of striking the mainland with
his Trident and a chunk fell into the sea thus creating Evia for his recreation. Evia didn’t
land that far from mainland Greece, as the narrowest stretch of water separating the two is
just 40 metres. The Earth Shaker then created his palace beneath the waves between Evia
and the Island of Skiathos.
The Halkidians, an Evian tribe with strong links to the City State of Athens, occupied the
Northern Sporades and used the natural harbour of Skiathos as their port. They encouraged
the development of the existing local industries of wine and oil and turned Skiathos into a
flourishing trading post. The island was used for centuries as a jumping-off point for their
many naval forays to capture new territory.
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1) LOUTRA ADHIPSO
LOUTRO ADIPSON
6
port

thermal
springs
15
5
20
15
240 metres
38°51'.0N 023°2'.7E
Loutra Adhipso is a large town on Evia sitting at Cape Therma on the eastern entrance to
Adhipso Gulf and is world-famous famous for its nearby thermal springs.
From the south, the conical towers and structure of the luxurious Thermae Scylla Hotel,
standing on the water’s edge at Cape Therma, are conspicuous and ferry movements back and
forwards to the mainland are noticeable. The hotel is named after Roman General and
Dictator Sylla who, in ancient times, sought treatment for his arthritis at a cave with a hot
mineral spring. The hotel was constructed on this site in 1897 on land gifted by the first
Greek Government to Admiral Tobazis for naval services he rendered in the 1821 Greek
Independence struggle.
Sailing on from Cape Therma you arrive at the small fishing harbour where you might be
able to find a berth with 4m depth at the entrance dropping to 3m inside. As well as depth
considerations there is a lot of foul ground with old cable and chain to look-out for. When it’s
busy you will also probably have to raft-up to a fishing boat.
Slightly further north is the long quay-wall for the ferry link to Arkitsa on the mainland and
care must be taken with ferry movements when entering and exiting the harbour. The ferries
tend to send surges into the harbour.
At night identification becomes a bit more difficult because the town is well lit-up but closer-
in the Fl.G on the end of the jetty should become visible and 1 cable north you should pick-
up the 3 flashing yellow lights of the ferry quay arranged in a triangular shape.
There are other anchorages further north of the ferry quay in the NE corner of Edipsou Gulf.
But, when visiting, I find it easier to anchor in the position shown on the chart-let near the
Thermae Scylla Hotel which is well-protected from the prevailing wind with reasonable
holding on sand and patchy weed in 4m.
There’s plenty of shops, services, tavernas and hotels ashore and, of course, the spas if you
feel a bit jaded. There are some expensive hotels if you really feel like pushing the boat out.
You can even bathe in the miracle mineral water for free as excess hot water from the springs
is discharged onto the rocky beach.
The history of Loutra Edipsou is linked to the Biblical Great Flood involving Noah.
Apparently, in the mythological Greek version, Zeus became disgusted by humanity and
sent a flood to rid the earth of its Bronze Age inhabitants.
Pre-warned of the flood by his father Prometheus, Deucalion and wife Phyrra built and
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provisioned a wooden chest and drifted for 9 days and nights before landing on a mountain
and becoming the last surviving pair of humans on earth. After giving thanks to Zeus the
childless couple were told by the Oracle of Thetis to cast stones over their shoulder to
repopulate the earth with humans springing up where the stones landed.
The Goddess Hera, wife and sister to Zeus, apparently advised Deucalion and Phyrra to
bathe in the hot mineral springs at Adhipso to aid conception and considering Deucalian
was 82 this sounds like hopeful advice indeed. The happy result was a son, Hellen whose
family line gave, what was to become Greece, its modern name of Hellas with Hellenic
meaning Greek.
Strabo has linked the hot springs to Hercules as the place he relaxed after each of his
Labours to recharge his batteries before commencing the next task.
But the first written reference comes in the 2nd CBC. Roman Emperors Hadrian, Septimus
Severus and Marcus Aurilius bathed in the reputedly health-giving waters although it’s
clear that lots of the health tourists of the time headed to the spa to party with wine, women
and song being the preferred medication rather than sulphurated water.
The mineral baths were destroyed during Byzantine times as a hot-bed of paganism ruins
from the Roman era still exist alongside many modern facilities. There are said to be over
80 springs with the hottest up to 86°.
The Edipsou hot springs are still a mecca for people looking for cures for a wide range of
maladies and where Greeks, still drawn by ancient folklore, seek fertility help. In more
recent times the healing waters have been visited by Winston Churchill, Maria Callas, Greta
Garbo, Omar Sharif and Aristotle Onassis and many other personalities including, it is
rumoured, Mrs Simpson and her Royal consort.
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2) LIKHADES ISLANDS
0.75 miles
Monolia 5 ada
h
k Lit
5 A 5

Fl(2)WR10s12/9M
38° 49.426' 22° 49.603'E
The Likhades Islands and islets lie off the most north-westerly point of Evia at Cape Lithada
(Kinaion) which is recognisable by the small white memorial near its tip. It’s easy and safe to
navigate between the Evia Coast and the main island of Monolia in daylight but watch-out for
fishermen running the current in the Likhades Channel with lots of boats in the channel
beeping horns at if you get too close to their nets.
Depending on wind direction and strength you might experience up to a 2 knot current
through the Likhades Channel. The current is very hard to predict in terms of strength and
direction but the main thing to remember and guard against is that it might be affecting your
vessel without you fully realising it. If sailing at night it’s a better idea to go round the
outside of the islands through the Knimidhas Strait with Strongilis Island and Cape Knimis
on the Greek mainland well lit.
There are day-time anchorages off the west and south coasts of Cape Lithada with choice
depending on wind direction. Holding is reasonable in sand at around 5m.
There’s an anchorage off the SE coast of Monolia but caution must be exercised when
approaching the island because of the amount of above and below-water rocks. A beach bar
opens in the summer and you can still find the old village and possibly the ancient temple to
Zeus.
Fishing boats often anchor between Monolia and the islet to the south but remember they
have a much shallower draft than you and they know the waters like the back of their hand.
The Likhades Islands are thought to have been created from lava during prehistoric volcanic
activity and further re-shaped with further upheaval from an earthquake in 426BC. But Greek
mythology provides a more fascinating explanation for the formation of the Lichadonisia
Islands which comprise of: Monolia, Great and Small Strongili, Steno, Vagia, Voria and
Limani.
Legend recounts the islands were formed after demi-god Hercules killed his man-servant
Lichas and flung his body into the sea off Cape Lichada (Lithada). The fascinating tragedy
is eloquently unfolded in the Women of Trachis by Sophocles and Metamorphoses by Ovid.
214
The tale began when Hercules was taking his third bride Deianira home after having won
her hand by defeating River God Achelous in combat. The wild centaur Nessus was
ferrying the beautiful bride across the Evenus River while he husband waited on the shore.
However, the ferryman attempted to rape the bride and when Hercules saw this he fired a
poisoned arrow into the centaur. As the half-man half-animal lay dying he told the bride to
take some of his flowing blood as a talisman to ensure Hercules would never leave her.
Time passed and Hercules fathered numerous illegitimate children and took the beautiful
Iole as a concubine after slaughtering her father and brothers. Deianira became convinced
Hercules wanted Iole more than her but remembered the pledge of the dying centaur Nessus
that if his blood was smeared on Hercules’ skin that he would never leave her.
So she smeared the blood on the famous lion skin shirt of Hercules and gave it to Lichas to
take to his master and when he pulled it on his skin started burning. Believing his man
servant had poisoned him he flung him into the sea and such was the pain he ordered a
funeral pyre built and cast himself into the flames.
Deianira realised she has been tricked by the dying centaur and that the so-called love
potion wasn’t his blood but from the arrow fired by Hercules which had been tipped by the
deadly toxic blood of The Hydra of Lerna — killed previously by Hercules as the second of
his Twelve Labours.
The heart-broken Deianira then hung herself but all ended well for Iole as Hercules, before
his death, had arranged for his son to marry her. Hercules didn’t really die but ascended
from the burning pyre in a cloud accompanied by peals of thunder to join the Gods and
become reconciled with his erstwhile tormentor Hera (Queen of the Gods) who let him
marry her daughter Hebe.
Down the ages there have been many literary and historical references to the manner of
Hercules’ death and I mention just a couple.
In Shakespeare’s Antony and Cleopatra Marc Antony after losing the Battle of Actium in
31BC which marked the end of the Hellenistic Age bewails: "The shirt of Nessus is upon
me."
The failed 20 July 1944 plot to assassinate Hitler caused a leading conspirator to state:
"None of us can complain about our own deaths. Everyone who joined our circle put on the
Robe of Nessus." After the attempt at least 5,000 brave Germans were murdered by the
Gestapo and thousands more were cruelly tortured.
215
216
3) AGIOCAMBOS
Agiocambos is a small village sitting just south of Cape Akrotiri and is a ferry port which
links Evia link with Glifa across the Orei Channel on the mainland coast.
The anchorage is 0.5nm south of the ferry ramp and provides reasonable shelter from NE
winds. However, the bay is exposed and only useful for a daytime stop in good conditions if
you fancy a swim off-the-beach.
The usual caveats operate whenever you are sailing, anchoring or berthing near a ferry port as
the larger craft can come up on you quickly, creating surges accompanied with unpredictable
manoeuvres.
The Nautilus Museum in Agiocambos provides a fascinating experience for those of all
ages. The museum is dedicated to shells, stones and fossils from the seas around the world
and contains around 3,000 exhibits.
What is really intriguing about the museum is the insight it provides into how the various
sea creatures exhibited have impacted on human existence and influenced: architecture, art,
medicine, shipbuilding, engineering, textiles, decoration and many more activities.
I was amazed to learn that even the decorative elements on Doric and Ionian columns can
be traced back to sea shells. The museum really is something a bit different and well worth
a look and I guarantee that it will make you look at sea creatures in a different light.
217
4) NEA PIRGOS
38°56'.3N 023°4'.1E
NEA PYRGOS
<1
2
Fl.G3s
5
2
2
3 4
<1
1
2
mi
ni ma
rke
t
fuel
75 metres
Nea Pirgos is a small commercial and fishing harbour just south from Orei and east of Cape
Nisiotisse which is a pleasant port of call for visiting yachts with a few berths available just
inside the breakwater and good holding in sand and and mud. If the harbour is full you can
take a line ashore to the outside of the breakwater but you tend to feel the effect of swell
created by passing ships.
Heading north in the Orei Channel, Cape Nisiotisse on Evia is very recognisable through the
ruined Venetian tower on top of its outlying rocky islet of Monastiri. Nearer Nea Pirgos the
small harbour entrance is just to the west of the distinctive white 2/3 story hotel sitting on the
waterfront which is also in-line with the radio tower on the hillside behind it.
There are some nice tavernas and after a meal it’s a pleasant walk along the coast to Cape
Nisiotisse where you’ll find a lovely beach and good photo opportunities.
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5) OREI HARBOUR
OREI 75 metres
bull
HARBOUR Port
Police
6 1
4 2
6
7
5
10 2
13 3
12 Fl.R1.5s
2
6 3
15 7
5
13 2
Fuel

2 minimarket
Orei is a useful harbour on Evia’s north coast which can be difficult to identify from offshore.
The approach is clear of dangers apart from an isolated danger mark on the Ifalos Oreon reef
which is easily spotted during the day with plenty of water between the mark and shore.
Closer to the shore you can make out the harbour at Orei and identify the mole, breakwater
and light. There’s good shelter from winds but you can get a swell running towards the
harbour in strong E and SE winds. The tidal range at Orei is almost 1m at springs and
appropriate allowances should be made when tying-up.
The main berth for visiting yachts is stern-to on the main north quay where you’ll find good
holding in 8-10m in mud. When this is full you can go alongside the rebuilt quay to starboard
when entering the harbour. The inside position is favoured due to ferry wash or swell which
can be a nuisance on the outside of the quay.
219
Remember to use long springs and warps and leave plenty of space for larger fishing boats to
tie up. There’s quite a large fishing fleet based at the port which provides plenty of fresh
catches for the local taverna kitchens.
The old iron quay has been renovated but Port Police aren’t happy about visiting yachts using
it when there’s space elsewhere. Smaller yachts can go stern-to in front of the tavernas as
illustrated but they may be in danger of crossing anchors.
All the facilities you would expect from a medium-sized town can be found in Orei apart
from an ATM machine although there is one in Istia.
You can get water on the quay and fuel at the filling station 100m away from the harbour on
the Istia road or arrange a mini-tanker at Spiro Taverna. There’s a supermarket, several mini-
markets, baker, butcher, fruit and vegetable shop, Post Office, Health Centre (6km away in
Istia), tavernas and cafes can all be found. There’s good, sandy beaches to the north of the
quay with beach showers.
Mythology claims that Orei was named after Orion the Son of sea god Poseidon but the
town’s early history is confused with it being conquered by the Athenians and then
occupied by the Spartans at the end of the Peloponnesian wars and then eventually
destroyed by the Romans in 198BC.
The Byzantine Empire took control in the 4th century AD and the 1204 Fall of
Constantinople at the hands of the crusading western knights led to subsequent Venetian
and Lombard occupation and the building of a Frankish Castle on top of the ancient
acropolis to defend the ever-expanding port. During this period the Island of Evia became
known as the Kingdom of Negroponte.
After subsequent Turkish occupation the port of Orei was destroyed by the Ottomans in
1823, after the outbreak of the Greek War of Independence, and it was 1830 before Evia
was liberated from Turkish rule.
A huge marble statue of a bull, dating from the 4th Century BC, is located in a glass case a
short stroll from the main quay beside the Church of the Transfiguration. The marble
funerary piece was dredged from the harbour in 1965 and, according to Homer, Istia’s
fertile plain was the grazing land of the goddess Hera’s sacred bulls. Orei’s City Hall has a
collection of Classical sculptures and pottery from the Hellenistic and Classical periods on
display.
6) IFALOS OREI REEF
The Ifalos Orei Reef is located approximately 2NM west of Orei town on Evia Island and
north of Cape Nisiotissa. The reef is awash at sea level but is substantial below the surface. It
is marked by a concrete tower with an isolated danger mark (Fl(2)12s6m9M) .
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7) PEFKI HARBOUR
39°0'.4N 023°12'.3E
3
4
5
4

4
Fl.R2s
5 3
5
6
PEFKI
3
HARBOUR 100 metres
Pefki is a fishing harbour on Evia’s north coast, 4 miles east of Cape Kefala and it’s normally
full of fishing boats. The beach NE of the harbour is conspicuous as is the marble quarry on
Cape Sarakiniko which lies due north across the Trikeri Channel on the Trikeri Peninsula.
Leave adequate distance when entering the harbour area due to shallows at the end of the
harbour mole and also take care of hydrofoil movements. The harbour has depths ranging
from 1.5m to 5m. Rock ballasting runs all along the outside of the quay and the harbour
offers reasonable shelter from the prevailing meltemi winds and swell but it can get
uncomfortable in westerly winds.
The bottom is sandy and provides good holding. Sometimes yachts have been asked to leave
the harbour by Port Police and Pefki seems to have become a harbour dedicated to fishermen.
If you berth alongside the quay you’ll probably end up rafted-onto by fishing boats. It’s
possible though to anchor and get shelter behind the harbour wall.
Still, it’s a nice spot and most of the visitors are Greeks from Athens, like a lot of Evia, so
you do get a real Greek experience. And if it’s beaches you want then you’ll be spoiled for
choice as they run all the way from Cape Artemision in the north to Cape Kefala in the west.
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8) PONDIKINOSI ISLAND
39°2'.6N 023°19'.4E
PONDIKONISI
5s
R1
ISLAND
)W
(2
Fl
30
6
20 10 14
10 20
10
45
10
Evia 0.75 miles
Pondikinosi is one of the many similarly named islands in Greece and means mouse and to
me most look a bit like a crouching mouse. Sitting at the south of the Trikeri Channel just NE
of Cape Artemesion and some 7NM from Pefki it makes a good point for breaking a journey
from Northern Evia or the Gulf of Volos to Skiathos or vice-versa. It’s readily identifiable
from the lighthouse on its northern tip.
The only suitable anchorage is a cove on the SW of the island which provides decent shelter
from prevailing weather and is ideal for a secluded swim and lunch stop. There’s no real
problem in approach other than to remember the low-lying Prasonisi Island to the east and the
shoals extending along the Evia coast. However when approaching from the south you should
pay attention to the Myrmigkonisia Reef lying off the headland immediately north of
Psarapouli. You can pass between this reef and Evia Island without trouble but should stay
further offshore at night.
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9) PSARAPOULI HARBOUR
100 metres
2
3
4 4
3 4
3 5

6
3
PSARAPOULI
HARBOUR
3
38°59'.0N 023°22'.3E
Psarapouli Harbour is well-protected from the meltemi behind the breakwater but is subject
to swell. The harbour has been dredged although useful space for yachts is limited by the
number of fishing and local boats. There’s plenty of space on the inside of the breakwater and
you can tie-off a shoreline there.
Prevailing winds can whip-up a swell and cause problems for yachts along this lee-shore and
should be avoided in all but the calmest of weather. Pay attention to the Myrmigkonisia Reef
1 NM north of the harbour and lying on the rumb line towards Skiathos. You can pass on the
inside of this reef but the area should be avoided in conditions of low light.
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10) PARALIA AG ANNA
500 metres Ag Vasileios
fort
10
4
7

4 12
11
Ag ANNA BEACH
10
38°52.'8N 023°26'.9E
The 3 mile long Ag Anna Beach has a useful anchorage at its northern end where Agios
Vasileios Headland connects to Evia via a narrow pebbly isthmus to form a bay on its
southern side which receives some protection from prevailing winds and swell.
The immediate bay approach is clear of any off-lying dangers but you must pay attention to
the small cluster of Lefkonisia Islands lying off the Kotsikia Headland. The most seaward
island is marked by a light (Fl(3)15s) but it is possible to pass between the Evia Coast and the
innermost island. This shortcut is not advisable in anything but flat calm conditions as it is
very shallow with only have a couple of metres under the keel in places.
Space exists in the middle of Vasileios Bay to anchor or take lines ashore as necessary. The
bottom is patchy gravel and weed. If the weather is calm you can anchor closer to the main
beach keeping clear of the small boat moorings. There are some tavernas, shops and other
facilities among the developments and a camping site on the main beach.
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11) MANTOUDI
F.R
8 10
10
7
8
old
MANTOUDI
7
pier
Kimasi 8
Beach 6
100 metres
Mantoudi is dominated by a small industrial port and the huge rusty crane on the old mining
pier is conspicuous from some distance out. like most places along this stretch of coast it is
open to the prevailing weather and quickly becomes untenable is worsening conditions.
If no ships are loading at the commercial pier it is possible to tie up but the pier is very rough
and you will need to use all available fenders and long springs. Alternatively, it is possible to
find a little bit of shelter behind the rocky islets at the mouth of the Piliotis River which forms
a miniature haven for shallow draft fishing and local boats. The river silts up and the area
behind the rocks on the beach have unpredictable depths so you must proceed with caution.
You will find a small taverna across the foot-suspension bridge.
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12) PILI
5
3
5 2
PILI 4 2
HARBOUR 3
3 3
4
2
3
38°45'.9N 023°35'.5E
100 metres
Pili Harbour is located at the southern end of a horseshoe bay located between two rocky
headlands and it is difficult to spot the harbour until close in. The beach is relatively quiet and
you can usually find a berth in the harbour which offers protection from the wind but swell
does work its way around the end of the breakwater.
There is a a shallow spot half way along the quay but it is easily avoided but as it is usually
home to small fishing boats it never becomes an issue. It is a pleasant enough place and
tavernas can be found a short walk away in the village. Again, its no place to be in rough
weather, with the only true safe haven along this stretch of coast being Kimi Harbour
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13) KIMI PORT
300 metres 5
10 65
6 Kimi
fe
rr
y
Harbour
7
5

20
Fl.R
Fl.G
50
5 7
Fl.R
Fl.G 100
8 32
5
10 38°37'.1N 024°7'.6E
In a sense Kimi is both the end of the road and an island gateway. Kimi sits at the end of the
road from Halkida and the Evia bridge link to the mainland and is home to the ferry to Skyros
Island 24 NM to the east.
Kimi is an important Aegean ferry and commercial port and with Petries 17 NM to the south
comprise the only two safe ports along this coastline. Entrance to Kimi can sometimes be
difficult when heavy seas are running and you must bear in mind the quite heavy ferry traffic
and commercial shipping movements. Ferries for their loading ramps at the northern end of
the inner basin.
The masts on the mountains behind the town are conspicuous from some distance. Closer in
the buildings of the naval college and town become apparent. At night the two sets of lateral
marks on the breakwaters mark the channel to the inner basin. There are off-lying rocks
clearly charted which must be avoided when making the approach to Kimi. The Glaronisi
Rock (38°36'.65N 24°13'.31E) are unlit and form a significant hazard at night. The distinctive
Prasoudha Rock (38°39'.88N 24°15'.01E) is visible from a distance. There is a south-flowing
current along this stretch of coast that can set vessels inshore and step-up the swell into larger
breaking waves. This stretch of coast from Kimi to the southern cape of Evia is notorious and
the area where hundreds of Persians ships which came to grief at the Hollows of Evia on the
SE coast of the island.
Once in the harbour you can anchor in either basin with good holding on mud and sand
although keep clear of the channel. You can also berth alongside or stern-to in the top NW
corner of the inner basin between the ferry. Shelter is good from the meltemi but if the wind
comes from the south a surge penetrates the outer basin and can also affect berthing at the
NW corner. In southerlies the best place to berth is bows-to near the iron gantry.
Ashore you'll find diesel by mini-tanker and petrol in the filling station across the main road
from the harbour. Water taps are on the quay and showers are built into the harbour wall.
There's also tavernas, bars and cafes and bakery as well as a couple of mini-markets which
have developed to service the ferry trade. If you want a more extensive range of services head
up the hill to Kimi Village which is tucked-away on the hillside 1.5km away. There are a
couple of supermarkets, ATM, PO, butcher, banks and a chemists.
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228
SKYROS ISLAND

6 7
10
Skyros 11
4
3
2
5
1
17 12
18 16 15
13
14
1) Kalamitsa Gulf | 2) Linaria Harbour | 3) Pefkos Bay | 4) Fokas Bay | 5) Skyropoula Island | 6) Atsitsa Bay | 7) Kalogria
Bay | 8) Kalogria Bay (Inner) | 9) NW Skyros & Podhi Rocks | 10) Skyros Town (Chora) | 11) Achilles Bay | 12) Skyros
South Coast | 13) Renes Bay | 14) Glyfadha Cove | 15) Tris Boukes Bay | 16) Achladi Cove | 17) Skyros SW Coast | 18)
Agnou & Vales Coves
Skyros is certainly an island of sharp contrasts with a lush pine-clad northern end and a bare
and rocky south with the 3,000 population concentrated in its central belt. The highest
southern point is Kochilas sea shell standing at 792m and in the north, Mount Olympus
reaches 367m. Skyros is thought to mean a chip or fragment of worked stone and in view of
the amount of historical mining and quarrying it may well have given the island its name.
First mentioned by Homer, Skyros is steeped in mythology and has a turbulent history of
war, occupation and piracy, mainly because of its strategic position straddling important
Mediterranean trade routes from the Aegean, Black Sea and beyond.
Excavations at Palamari in the NE tip of Skyros date human habitation back 7000 years and
the finds and structural remains reveal the Neolithic site grew into an extensive and
prosperous fortified Bronze Age settlement. Getting to Palamari by sea, lacks o safe
anchorages and exposed to the prevailing weather.
Skyros is the most remote of the populated islands in the Northern Sporades and the
southernmost in the chain tending to be a lot quieter than Skiathos and Skopelos, though it
can get busy in the high-season especially in Chora — the island’s main town — and the
nearby linked beaches of Molos and Magazio.
The island provides a stunning coastal backdrop dotted with rocky islets, sea caves, remote
small coves with undeveloped pebble and sand beaches — as many can only be reached by
sea it’s easy to find seclusion and tranquility to enjoy the stunning views although things do
get a little busier in August.
Skyros is closer to Evia than to Skiathos, Skopelos or Alonissos. Ferries connect Kymi on
Evia’s eastern side to Linaria on Skyros — the island’s main port — with a 2.5 hour
passage time. A small airport on the northern tip of the island handles flights from Athens
and Thessaloniki and a small number of summer charters, mainly from Scandinavia.
229
SKYROS HISTORY
Initially Skyros was known as Magnetes Island after the people living there and then
Pelasgia before being named Dolpius. Many of the huge blocks of stone the Pelasgians used
for wall building can still be seen in the foundation stones of the Kastro at the Chora.
In 475 BC, Greek General Cimion of Athens defeated the Dolopians and Skyros became
part of the Athenian Empire. Greek hero Theseus (the founder King of Athens) had
previously been pushed over a cliff at the castle by Lycomedes, Dolopian King of Skyros,
who perceived him to be a threat. So, when Cimion found "a coffin of a great corpse with a
bronze spear-head by its side and a sword" he identified the remains as those of Theseus
and returned them to Athens for honourable burial.
The Dolopians had been a strong sea power existing off the spoils of piracy which had
sparked Cimion’s punitive expedition after they impounded and looted a Thessalonian ship
anchored in Kalamitsa Harbour and then refused to pay a fine imposed by the Council of
Greek City States.
Macedonia invaded the island in 340 BC and held it until 192 BC when Roman Republican
forces took over and and King Philip V of Macedonia returned the island to Athens. But the
Byzantine Empire then took control and ruled until Constantinople fell to the Crusaders in
1204 and the island passed to the Venetians before Ottoman Empire rule was established
towards the end of the 14th Century and finally ended followng the War of Independence
against the Turks in 1821 with union with Greece in 1829.
230
1) KALAMITSA GULF
2000 metres
Pevko
Bay
ori
Diapori
iap
Linaria Linaria
AD
Bay
Aragma
Stoma Bay
Ak Sklouka

Nyfi
d
Bay
lan
KALAMITSA BAY
a Is
lax
Liminaki
Va
Bay Kolympada
Bay
Ak
Ag Nikolaou Me
Tragopidima Bay sa
Bay My
Mesa Diavatis ti
Ak A
V Plaka Kfali pokle
istra
os
Exo Diavatis edr
K
38°48'.8N 024°31'.7E
Ak
Kalamitsa Gulf is a large bay on the SW of Skyros which provides sheltered anchoring and
the ferry harbour of Linaria tucked-into the head of the bay.
Main entry into the Gulf lies between Cape Apokleistra on the mainland and Cape Valaxa on
the SE tip of the 220 metre high Valaxa Island which is lit. Favour the western side of the
channel towards Valaxa Island because of the reddish islets, rocks and shoals extending 1
mile SW from Cape Apokleistra to Exo Diavatis.
Once into the gulf you will see the light at Linaria Harbour to the north and even the
breakwater. There are no natural dangers on approach.
However, at the northern extremity of Valaxa Island you'll find the narrow Valaxa Strait
between the island and the mainland and you could be taken by surprise by commercial
vessels, including ferries, shaving the journey time to Linaria Harbour by using the channel
instead of rounding Valaxa Island.
The safe channel is narrow and greatest depth is 5 metres with only 2-3 metres on either side.
So if you don't have local knowledge take things very slowly or if unsure take the longer trip
round Valaxa.
You’ll find a variety of anchorages in
Kalamitsa Gulf with Aragma Bay interesting
because it forms the western end of a narrow
flat valley which completely traverses Skyros
from the west at Aragma Bay to Achilles Bay
in the east. This cultivated isthmus effectively
divides the island between the flatter north and
mountainous south and leads locals to believe
it proves ancient folklore which claims Skyros
was created from the fusion of two separate islands in far-off times.
Aragma Bay with the beach at the hamlet of Kalamitsa is just 1.5 miles round the corner to
the east and you’ll find reasonable meltemi shelter and a bit more protection from wind gusts
than Linaria Cove. There’s adequate holding on sand and weed in 2-5 metres and lots of
room in the bay but possibly the west side is favourite with better protection from gusts and a
beach which again has a seasonal taverna.
231
232
2) LINARIA HARBOUR
10 100 metres
2
8
m
oo
30 rin
gs
15 10
LINARIA HARBOUR 5 LINARIA
25 10 6
30 fer 2
ry
35
7
10
38°50'.5N 024°32'.0E
Linaria Harbour has developed and grown in importance through its geographic position and
the prevailing winds in Skyros. The port sits on the west coast of Skyros facing Evia Island
which lies to the SW almost opposite to the Evian port of Kimi — 25NM away — where the
daily ferry service to Skyros Island is based.
Vital to the economic bustle of Linaria is its good shelter from both the meltemi and
southerlies in contrast to the island capital of Skyros Town, on the island’s eastern side,
which is very open to the meltemi like much of the surrounding coast making it highly
unsuitable for yacht anchoring except for short periods in settled conditions.
Linaria is an extremely busy port and tight for space with most of the island fishing fleet
operating from the town as well as day-tripper boats, other small local craft and, of course,
the Evia ferry movements. The ferry area is clearly marked in yellow on the quay and must
be avoided in the port and its approaches for this high-speed traffic.
A few yachts can berth against the western quay or anchor among the moorings. The ground
is pretty foul and holding poor near the moorings so take care when dropping your anchor.
An alternative is to anchor in Linaria Cove just
north of Linaria Harbour quay. The small
Akherones Beach sits at the head of the cove
and attracts some sunseekers although it never
gets too busy and has the bonus of a seasonal
taverna. There are another couple of small
beaches just before Fokiotripa Point if you
want to get the dinghy out. Holding is fine on
mud, gravel and weed in 3-6 metres and a little
more shelter can be had from the meltemi on the cove’s western side.
There are a few good tavernas in Linaria and sea food really is a speciality helped no doubt
by the amount of local fishing boats landing their catch. It’s also a great spot for watching
sunsets.
Water is available on the quay with fuel just behind it and a mini-tanker service available as
well as shops for basic supplies. A bus makes the 20 min run to Skyros Town 10km away
233
twice a day and is timed to coincide with the ferry. If you miss it there’s a taxi rank on the
waterfront.
234
3) PEFKOS BAY
n
tis
ano
oulio 5 3
Ak S 6
hrep
10
55 12 35
Ak D
75 6 38
15
70
50 20
6
Lakkonisi 100 PEVKO BAY
135
100 35
a
om
St
140 74 Kalamitsa
130 3 30
Vlaxa Strait 15 5 Gulf
38°50'.5N 024°29'.4E
800 metres Vlaxa
Pefkos Bay has good protection from the

prevailing wind but is very deep which reduces
anchoring possibilities. Best to head straight
for the head of the bay and pick an anchoring
spot in 3-6 metres just off the beach which has
a seasonal taverna. As with lots of the coves in
the area the bottom is a mix of sand and weed
but there are also rocky spots which means
pick your spot carefully.
As you make your way deep into the bay you’ll
spot a small quay to starboard near the head of
the bay. It’s an old stone loading quay to ship-
out the Skyros marble which has always been
popular and fascinated the Romans. I you’re
lucky you might get a spot but there’s usually a
gaggle of local fishing boats occupying the
space. Because of the depth you’ll probably
have to go bow-to which gives you a chance to
squeeze the nose in.
235
4) FOKAS BAY
1000 metres
8
15
25
30
40 5
lia
Tha
OROS BAY

50 10
Ak
85 36
111 50
11 FOKAS BAY
140
Thalia Rk 30
non
tis
120 Fokas Rk lio
ou
epa
S
Ak
Dhr
30
50 10
160
Ak
125 70
175
40
Lakkonisi 15
38°51'.5N 024°27'.0E
Fokas and Oros Bays lie just south of Cape Oros on the west coast of Skyros but Oros Bay
isn’t really practicable for anchoring because of depth.
Ag Fokas is just next door and south of Oros
round Thalia Point and has a small beach at its
head which you can anchor-off in 4-10 metres
in the usual sand and weed. Meltemi shelter is
reasonable when right into the bay but again
like lots of anchoring spots in the area you can
be hit by gusting over the hillsides.
Approach presents no problems with Thalia
and Ag Fokas Rocks sitting south of the point
and clearly visible with no hazards between the rocks and the point and plenty of water under
the keel.
Coming from the east or the south you’ll easily spot Lakkonisi Rock which has deep water all
round and presents no danger in good visibility. Closer-in to Fokas Bay you’ll spot the
seasonal beach cantina on the bay's west side and on the east the conspicuous white church
sitting on the hillside overlooking the bay and beach.
236
5) SKYROPOULA ISLAND
85
65
Ak Ko
55
lona
120 65
55 150
5
SKIROPOULA

10
20 2.5
8 3 12
80
10
20 30
12 35 50 85
100 10
60
75 50
1000 metres
38°49'.5N 024°22'.0E
Sitting to the SW of the conspicuous Cape Oros on the west coast of Skyros you’ll find the
uninhabited islet of Skiropoula which translates to Little Skyros. The Erinia Islet lies just over
4 km to the east of Skyropoula but is clearly visible.
Skyropoula was owned by the Antoniades family from 1860 until 2001 when it was sold to a
Cypriot businessman. Admiral Antoniades was the Hellenic Navy’s chief of staff from 2002-
2005. It came back on the market for a 21 million Euro price in 2011 but I’ve not been able to
find out whether is has been sold so I’ll keep saving my pennies.
On the island’s south coast you’ll find two good anchorages and a nice beach but when
approaching the anchorages from the east you have to be catious of the rocks and reefs lying-
off the SE of the island. If you keep well-enough south of Skyropoula there's no danger in
sailing NW into the western anchorage.
The eastern anchorage is a little trickier as it’s closer to the rocks and reefs but no problem as
long as care is taken. If moving close-inshore between the two anchorages then identify and
be careful of the rock awash between them displayed on the chartlet.
237
6) ATSITSA COVE
38°55'.1N 024°27'.4E
12
2 3
50
90 10
5
28
20
Kira Panayia
ATSITSA BAY
60 8
75
3 Atsitsa
Atsitsa 2
85 50 Island
3
40 5
38 3
500 metres
Ak Petrino
Atsitsa is a very quiet anchorage on the NW
coast of Skyros between Cape Oros in the
south and Vathi Point to the north. There's
quite a lot of shelter but it's open to the west
and if there’s any significant swell from that
direction then it could get uncomfortable.
Still it’s a lovely spot encircled by pine trees
and the Skyros Centre has a holistic and
alternative holiday centre there as well as their
larger operation in the Chora.
Mines were worked in the 19th century and the old stone pillars for the iron ore loading quay
still stand like sentinels guarding the little cove. Some say a railway line ran on the pillars
which stretched all the way up into the mountains but I'm not sure about this.
Once past the outermost pillar you can anchor in 3-5 metres in sand and shallower draft
vessels can work in further and get better protection.
The beach isn’t great and the rocks make it a swim harder but you’ll find a couple of better
spots quite close by at Kalogria and Kyra Panagia which also has a small chapel sitting by the
sea. Atsitsa has a beach taverna especially good for fish dishes which makes it a handy lunch
stop.
238
7) KALOGRIA BAY
65 10
50
30 ay Kalogria
Qu 3
7 15
Kalogria Islet Fuel
6 7 10
4
15

74 5
30
KALOGRIA 2
BAY 15
Atsitsa
Cove Kira Panayia
45 20
75
Atsitsa Islet Atsitsa
50
10 4
40
38°55'.0N 024°26'.7E
Ak Petrino 500 metres
Kalogria Bay has good meltemi protection but like its neighbour Atsitsa Bay is wide-open to
westerlies but you can escape most by getting as close as possible to the small quay which
sits on the bay’s NW shore opposite Kalogria Rock.
239
8) KALOGRIA BAY (Inner)
200 metres
32 5 Kalogria
ay
Qu 3
15 5
Kalogria
2

Islet 10
6
14
30 4
14
KALOGRIA BAY
5
40 15
38°55'.5N 024°27'.2E
Keep clear of the two mooring/fuel unloading

buoys which pipe aviation fuel ashore to feed
the Hellenic Airforce base strategically placed
on the northern tip of Skyros to dominate the
Aegean and eastwards to the Turkish coast.
The base allows internal Greek domestic
flights and some European charters to operate
during the summer.
There’s a taverna ashore but nothing other than
that. It really is a big sweeping bay and good for a swim stop or quiet overnight anchorage in
calm weather.
240
9) NW SKYROS & PODHI ROCKS
38°58'.1N 024°25'.5E
N Podhi Rk
S Podhi Rk
Kavouri Rk
Ak Kertsino
Airport

Ak Vathi
Kalogria
Bay Atsitsa
SKIROS
os
e Or
p
Ca
Koulouri Islet 3 miles
The northern tip of Skyros really feels remote, open to the effects of the meltemi. It’s a place
to exercise caution and not to be after dark unless you have local knowledge. It’s also a
restricted area, 2.5 miles radius from Podhu Rocks, because of the presence of the airforce
base
From Cape Kartsino — the island’s northern extremity — there are various rocks, reefs and
shoals extending to South Podhi Rock about 1.5 miles north of the mainland with a fairly
narrow safe channel, between the assorted hazards and Cape Kartsino, with a minimum depth
of 12 metres.
North Podhi Rock lies 1.2 miles NW of its southern namesake and there’s a 0.5 mile wide
deep channel between them. North and South Podhi Rocks are both lit but Cape Kartsino
isn't.
241
10) SKYROS TOWN (Chora)
150 metres
2
<1
2
<1 <1

3
2
<1
silts 4 <1
silts MOLOS LIMENISKOS
HARBOUR
5
2
38°54'.8N 024°34'.5E
Skyros Town — The Chora — is worth a visit but there's no really safe place to leave a boat
with the nearest being on the other side of the island at Linaria which is a bus or taxi ride
away but even then I would leave some on-board as Linaria also gets affected by the meltemi.
The small port of Molos Limeniskos is 2 Km
north of the Chora but space is a real problem,
as is heavy silting, and you would need to have
a shallow draft. It's totally open to the meltemi
and really not somewhere where you could
leave your boat unattended and relax.
The Molos and Magazia Beaches — have
merged into each other just north of Skyros
Town — and are the main sign of mass tourism
on the island and exhibit the sprawl that comes from intensive tourist development although
out of the high season the beaches are pleasant. Interestingly Magazia takes its name from
being the gunpowder magazine (storage) in Venetian Times.
The Chora really is quite dramatic with its distinctive sugarloaf mountain rising a sheer 500
feet topped by an ancient Kastro castle which, down the ages, has been a place to dominate
the island and also provide a refuge for Skyrians when under attack.
The Kastro possibly started as a shrine to an ancient deity and became an acropolis in the
mists of time before the Byzantines built on the original defences and extended the
fortifications. It really is an interesting trip through the winding spaces between the cycladic-
style cubist buildings of the inhabitants which huddle to the hillside beneath the castle walls
for protection.
A walk to the top offers brilliant local views and there's even crumbling remnants of the
classical walls where local King Lycomedes pushed the revered Athens founder-King
Theseus to his death. Although when it comes to spectacular views it’s hard to beat that from
the Agios Mamas church on lofty Mount Kochilas in the south of the island. The monastery
of St George — the island’s Saint Protector sits on the Kastro and probably dates back to the
13th Century although the present building dates to 1599-1602. The 2001 earthquake
seriously damaged the monastery although it eventually reopened after repairs.
242
The local Faltaits family have preserved vital aspects of island life and history by
transforming their residence into a folklore museum which is worth visiting to view a wide
range of items dating from Byzantine times up until the Greek War of Independence. Nearby
you'll find the Archaeological Museum with finds covering island excavations from many
historical periods.
Above the Archaeological Museum you’ll find Rupert Brooke Square which hosts the
Immortal Poetry statue dedicated to the English poet and unveiled by Greek prime minister
Eleftherios Venizelos in 1931. The unclothed statue scandalized pious locals, at the time,
especially with rumours that a Belgian male prostitute had modelled for it. Clearly most
residents had forgotten that in pagan times a gigantic stone phallus supposedly stood proudly
on that very spot as a symbol of plenty and prosperity.
243
11) ACHILLES BAY MARINA
38°52'.4N 024°34'.9E
7
15
22
10
8
3s
.R
Fl
Fl
.G
ACHILI BAY
3s

HARBOUR
5
4 5 3
3
4
300 metres
The building of the marina at Achilles Bay ruined a lovely beach and left in its place an
unfinished project with a helluva lot of concrete for the handful of local fishing boats using it.
The beach at Achilles Bay was where the Greek hero set sail for Troy and his epic
adventures. Some sailors think his courage is required to negotiate the dog-leg approach
channel and rocks and that’s without the meltemi blowing hard which is always a danger on
the exposed western coast of Skyros. It's also prone to swell entering the bay which adds to
the difficulties.
I’ve never actually discovered whether it was Euro money which built the marina — which
has no facilities — or even the reason why it was built and why it wasn’t sited on the more
sheltered east coast. It may well be that island politics dictated the positioning being just
south of Chora and the thought it would tie-in with the tourist industry already there and thus
prevent the spread of mass tourism to quieter parts of the island.
One night, over a few drinks, an islander claimed it was built facing the Turkish coast so as to
steal their growing yacht tourism trade. If that really was the strategy it failed miserably
although I can understand the plan as Skyros really is off the beaten-track for most Greek
sailing. At the end of the day it just looks like millions of Euro money has been poured away
for no lasting economic benefit except for the concrete supplier.
244
12) SKYROS SOUTH COAST
1.5 miles
SKYROS
Rupert Brooke's
Grave
Vales Cove
Achladi
Cove
Naval
© Delphinus Publishing Ltd Base
pro
Agnou Tristomo
Ak
Renes Cape Lithari
hibit
Cove Bay Bay
Ma
ed
rma
Fl.G3s6M Fl(3)30s16M
ra
Fl Plati
(2 Island
)1 Fl.4s
0s 62m
8m Sarakino 7M
7M Island
Glyfadha
38°44'.7N 024°33'.7E
Cove
The south coast of the island provides plenty of safe anchoring opportunities and an
interesting coastline with a scattering of caves which seldom gets busy although you’ll get the
odd day-tripper vessel passing by but by evening you’ll often be left in complete solitude.
In recent years the presence of the Hellenic Navy’s base in Tris Boukes Bay has grown and
depending on the regional political temperature access can sometimes be a problem. But
currently you can still sail through the bay and even anchor there away from the restricted
base area.
245
13) RENES BAY
650 metres
3
4
4
10 12
RENES BAY
55
10 8
15
15
30
63 50
Cape Xylopara
75
78
50 86
85
38°45'.8N 024°38'.0E
Renes Bay sits just east of Sarakiniko Island and there are several anchoring choices at the
head of the bay with each having it’s own beach usually for your exclusive use.
As with other south coast anchorages it has
good meltemi protection although open to
southerlies and subject to wind gusts working
over and around the mountainous southern
interior of Skyros. Anchoring is mainly in the
4-6 metres range on sand although care must
be taken when dropping the hook as there is
quite a lot of weed.
Approach into the bay is uncomplicated with a
wide deep entrance and the long recognisable finger of Point Xylopara is recognisable and
marks the bay’s eastern extremity. If you want to visit Rupert Brooke’s grave and experience
any difficulty in anchoring in Tris Boukes Bay then you can strike out from Renes Bay. It’s a
longer trek but not as far as from Achladi Cove.
246
14) GLYFADHA COVE (Sarakino)
250 metres
1
3
GLYFADHA COVE
7 3
SARAKINO ISLAND

15
10 32
10
40
10
38°44'.8N 024°36'.8E
Sarakiniko Island betrays its violent history as its name means Pirate Island and the cove was
an ideal hideaway for Saracen pirates to hole-up and lie in wait for unwary trading vessels to
attack and plunder.
There's some evidence that pirates found Skyros to be a useful base to provision and make
repairs and pay the local inhabitants with their loot. There’s little doubt that Glyfadha Cove
would have been a perfect hideaway with its almost total fringe of cliffs which only give way
to the beach at the head of the cove.
The bay is lovely and quietens down after any day-trippers depart for the evening. There’s no
problem overnighting as the cove is well-protected from all winds except southerlies. Anchor
in 3-6 metres in the usual weedy sand bottom.
247
15) TRIS BOUKES BAY
TRIS BOUKES BAY 7 8

22
Achladi Cove 25
25 83
2
pro
Naval Base
hib
65
ite
53 30
d
24 45
are
50
a
7
35 40 30
Ak Fl.G3s
Ma Plati Island 32
rm
ar 20 2 15
70 4
a
100 Fl.4s62m7M
80 Fl(2)10s7M 40 Sarakino Island
38°45'.3N 024°35'.0E
The large Tris Boukes Bay (Tristomo) is well-named from its geography as it translates into
English as Three Mouths Bay and the reason is obvious when you look at the chartlet.
It’s well-known as the place where English poet Rupert Brooke died and where his hillside
grave sits in solitude overlooking the waters of the bay. Access to the grave site used to be
fairly simple by anchoring off a river bed in the centre of the bay’s north shore and walking
up the hillside to find the olive grove where the WWI poet lies at peace. It's outwith the
navy’s restricted zone, which is well-marked, and starts SE of the river bed.
But naval security has been over-zealous in the past about anchoring near their restricted zone
although they now seem much more aware of why people want to pay their respects to
Brooke and I personally haven’t had any problems although being aware of their camera
‘phobia’ near any restricted area I make sure everyone keeps their gear out-of-sight until they
reach the memorial.
I’ve found it helpful for access to explain that Brooke was a Royal Navy sailor going to fight
the Turks in the Dardanelles and that has always opened the door as the Greek naval patrols
seem more impressed with that than the poetry of Brooke. Remember to take water as it can
be a warm 20 minutes walk.
The islands of Plati and Sarakino help protect the bay from southerlies and there's good
protection from the meltemi but there’s always the risk of gusts making their way over the
Coming from the west or the south you can access the bay just past Ak Maramara by using a
deep channel between the lit cape and Plati Island to the east. Exit the bay using the passage
between the mainland and Sarakino Island — both sides of which are lit towards the exit with
the light on the mainland marking the eastern boundary of the restricted zone. Remember to
keep south of the exclusion area which runs approximately 300 metres offshore. If you are
worried about straying into the naval area you can always exit by the middle channel between
Plati and Sarakiniko.
248
16) ACHLADI COVE
200 metres
2
3
ACHLADI COVE
10

12 15
15
30
45
16
38°46'.6N 024°34'.1E
Achladi Cove is possibly the best overnight shelter you’ll get in Tris Boukes Bay and only
open to the SE although it can be hit by gusts funneling southwards round the hills. The
bottom is sand and weed so drop the hook carefully in 3-6 metres.
249
17) SKYROS SW COAST
1 mile 50
80
85 i
xo Mit
Ak E
99 28
Mesa Dhiavatis 9
2
Ak
3 Nikolaou
Ap
15
ok
16 Bay
lis
V Plaka

SW Skiros
tra
65
35 22
12
6
Exo Dhiavatis
60 12 Vales
Coves
50
90 Agnou
110 95 14
Cove
50
38°46'.7N 024°31'.7'E
If heading for the SW or south coast of Skyros coming from Kalamitsa Gulf or returning to
the Gulf then pay attention to the rocks, reefs and shoals extending for 1 mile SW of Cape
Apokleistra on the eastern side of the channel.
250
18) AGNOU & VALES COVES
500 metres
4
3 VALES COVES
12
9
25 50
22
Agnou Cove
85
14
6
95 25
32
60
100
20
38°46'.6N 024°32'.2E
Both Agnou and Vales Coves are very open to the south but provide reasonable meltemi
protection although both are subject to gusting over the hills. Approach provides no problems
but as the coves are deep you have to get right up into them for anchoring purposes. Agnou is
the smaller and Vales the larger with a couple of anchoring options.
They both make good lunchtime stops for a cooling swim. Depending on the weather you
could overnight there but with the proximity of better anchorages in Kalimitsa Gulf it would
probably make better sense just to head there in the first case.
251
ACHILLES IN SKYROS
Greek Mythology recounts how the Trojan War was sparked after Paris, the son of King
Priam of Troy, was one of the many suitors who failed to win the hand of the beautiful
Helen in marriage. Paris was undeterred by the setback and set about stealing Helen from
her husband Menelaus and eloping with the new bride to his home city of Troy.
And that might have been the end of the story with the two young lovers settling down to a
happy married life. But one of the fiendishly clever clauses that all suitors had to agree to
was that all who failed in their quest to marry the world’s most beautiful woman would
forever support the successful suitor should anyone attempt to take his wife. And so began
the war which lasted for 20 years and saw the death of the flower of the aristocracy on each
side as well as thousands of their followers.
It had been foretold that Achilles faced a tragic end if he fought in the Trojan War despite
being supposedly immortal. So his mother, the goddess Thetis, decided to hide her child
and persuaded Lycomedes, King of Skyros, to hide Achilles in his own castle dressed as a
female. Whilst in hiding, surrounded by the daughters of Lycomedes, Achilles fell in love
with one who gave birth to their son, Pyrrhus.
Oracles later warned that the Troy Campaign would fail if Achilles didn’t participate so
Odysseus dressed as a pedlar and headed to Skyros where he displayed fine fabrics and
jewellery at the King’s Court. But he had hidden a sword and spear among the finery and it
was these that the disguised Achilles immediately became engrossed with.
Another version of the unmasking of Achilles explains how Odysseus arranged a trumpet
alarm to be sounded while he displayed his wares and as the women ran away Achilles
prepared to defend the Court.
Achilles then sailed to Troy and became the bravest of the Greeks and Hero of Homer’s
Iliad and thought to be invincible because his mother had dipped him in the sacred waters
of the River Styx which made him immune to wounds except for his heel which remained
dry where Thetis had held him with her fingers.
The hero’s dodgy heel would later prove fatal after he killed Hector, another of King Priam
of Troy’s sons. As predicted, Achilles met his end at Troy when a grief-stricken Paris
seized a bow and fired arrows at Achilles which Apollo, the son of Zeus, guided to the
Greek’s vulnerable heel leading to his death from the wound.
The Trojan confict dragged on with no end in sight and the desperate Greeks seized a
Trojan seer and forced him to reveal how they could take Troy and one of the requirements
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was persuading Achilles’ son Pyrrhus to enter the fray and once there the young warrior
became the most savage and cruel of the Greeks and personally slaughtered King Priam and
Hector’s son. Pyrrhus survived the war and his daughter Olympias became the mother of
Alexander the Great.
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DEATH OF A POET
Visitors to Skyros often make a melancholy pilgrimage to Rupert Brooke’s tomb which sits
in a quiet spot at Tris Boukes Bay, surrounded by an olive grove. The English poet wrote
his famous sonnet The Soldier in October 1914 just six months before his death on St
George’s Day 23 April 1915.
Many wrongly state that Brooke never saw action when, in fact, he fought at the 1914 Fall
of Antwerp and experienced the horrendous and bloody retreat from the city with marines
of the Royal Naval Division. The division was formed when World War I broke out and
naval reservists were called-up but as there was far too many for sea duty the surplus was
turned into a fighting force of land-based marines.
Writing to a friend about the experience he said: ‘I marched through Antwerp, deserted,
shelled, and burning, one night, and saw ruined houses, dead men and horses: And the
whole heaven and earth was lit up by the glare from the great lakes and rivers of burning
petrol, hills and spires of flame. That was like Hell, a Dantesque Hell, terrible.’
The poem’s poignant opening lines, which became so personally predictive for the young
Royal Navy sub-lieutenant, read: “If I should die, think only this of me: That there’s some
corner of a foreign field that is for ever England.”
The poet had sailed with the British Mediterranean Expeditionary Force from Port Said
bound for the Gallipoli Landings via Lemnos but because of shipping congestion his troop
ship was diverted to Tres Boukes Bay on the SW coast of Skyros where hospital ships
anchored to deal with the expected heavy casualties from Gallipoli. Brooke spent most of
his time on the island training his troops and just days before falling ill the poet relaxed, at
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the spot where his tomb was later built, and remarked on: “The strange peace and beauty of
this valley”.
Days later Brooke died from blood poisoning on a French hospital ship in Tris Boukes Bay,
probably from an infected mosquito bite on his lip suffered in Port Said, and his friend
William Denis Browne who was with him wrote: ‘No one could have wished for a quieter
or a calmer end than in that lovely bay, shielded by the mountains and fragrant with sage
and thyme’.
A simple torchlit burial service was held and a cairn of stones and simple wooden cross
hurriedly erected as Brooke’s ship and men were under unders to sail for Gallipoli
forthwith. At the end of WW1 the poet’s mother commissioned the present marble tomb
and her son’s body was taken to the olive grove further up the hill.
Just before his death Brooke was becoming recognised as an important poet and The
Soldier was read out from the pulpit in the 1915 Easter Day service at St Paul’s Cathedral.
Moves were made to remove Brooke from the dangers of the front-line but he refused to
leave his men being prepared to die with them, as many subsequently did, in the ill-fated
Gallipoli Campaign which squandered the lives of so many brave soldiers.
A philanthropist funded a statue commemorating the Soldier Poet which was erected in
Brooke Square, Skyros Town. It was designed to represent the Ideal Poet as an allegorical
figure rather than a true likeness of Brooke and symbolised the terrible death toll among the
youth of all nations resulting from the carnage of the First World War.
Many have dismissed the poetry of Brooke as jingoistic and not only pandering to but
fuelling public euphoria accompanying the outbreak of the Great War and failing to
recognise the harsh reality of a generation of squandered youth as portrayed by his fellow
Soldier Poets Wilfred Owen and Siegfried Sassoon.
I think the detractors have failed to recognise that Owen and Sassoon didn't produce their
anti-war poetry until 1917-18 and indeed later when the death of millions and the horror of
trench warfare had chilled the soul of European Nations.
By that time Brooke was long dead and I have little doubt that had he reached the hell-hole
of Gallipoli and survived then he too would, in time, have have written much darker poetry.
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SKYROS PONIES
Skyros is famous for its rare breed of wild
ponies which are unique to the island and may
have been introduced as early as the 8th
century BC by the Athenians. The small
ponies, averaging just over a metre in height,
feature in Parthenon friezes in Athens and are
reputed to have helped Alexander the Great in
his Asian military conquests.
Since the former glory days the unique ponies
have been used by Skyrian farmers for
ploughing and other agricultural tasks. They
were often cross-bred with donkeys and
coupled with increased agricultural
mechanisation which reduced their worth to
farmers and sadly only around a hundred
pure-bred ponies survive.
The Greek government realise the importance
of the ponies in terms of bio-diversity and
charity initiatives are working to secure their
future. But finance is lacking and the current
Greek economic problems doesn’t help. You
can see the ponies at the Skyrian Pony Centre
on the road to Atsitsa Bay, in the north of the
island, and if you make the effort you will be
enchanted by the little ponies with a huge heart and uncertain future.
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SPORADES WEATHER
Meltemi wind patterns
acc
elerat

ion zones
During the summer sailing season the meltemi winds in the Northern Sporades provide
exceptional sailing conditions and in an average week it’s normal to experience differing
wind velocities and you seldom have light winds for more than a few days at a time.
Distinct acceleration zones are formed and wind is altered when it is channelled and
funnelled between islands and landmasses. The islands help dampen a lot of the swell on
their southern shorelines which provides exhilarating flat-water sailing areas. When
southerlies blow home, many of the normal anchorages and harbours quickly become
untenable but this provide an ideal opportunity to explore many of the less visited and more
remote anchorages on northern shores which are normally the focus of the full effects of the
prevailing meltemi produced by a combination of high and low-pressure weather systems.
Northerly winds are produced by a relatively low-pressure system over the eastern
Mediterranean and a high-pressure system over the Balkans with the strength and duration
of these northerly winds changing as the summer progresses. Light and infrequent meltemi
winds are common in May and June, becoming more common during July, then reaching a
peak in July and August. These winds can really blow home in the Southern Aegean —
commonly Force 7-8 — but around the Northern Sporades Force 5-6 is the norm. When the
meltemi sets-in it can last anywhere from 5-6 days but usually the norm is only 2-3 days at
a time. Every 7-8 years, the meltemi blows its socks off and can reach gale force for 9-10
days on end!
A lot of wind can develop when least expected and I have been woken up at 3-4am with the
wind lasting until mid morning before receding as the day progresses. If the wind hasn’t
lessened by sunset it usually indicates that stronger winds can be expected that night and the
following day. If the meltemi wind isn’t blowing, a southerly summer sea breeze called the
boukadoura sets in for the evening or more often than not the wind dies completely.
Getting a decent weather forecast in Northern Sporades can be a bit sporadic to say the
least especially when cruising around the outer islands. Keep a close eye on your barometer
for an early warning of strong winds. If your barometer changes by anything more than 3-4
millibars in 3 hours you can usually expect strong winds or thunderstorms. If this rapid
change in barometric pressure is accompanied with 90 degree wind shifts then expect an
approaching low pressure system accompanied with frontal activity.
Clouds are excellent indicators of the weather and during July and August persistent
altocumulus may appear a day before the meltemi starts blowing and the formation of
orographic — cigar shaped clouds — on the leeward side of mountain tops accompanied by
a noticeable reduction in humidity usually signals a change in weather.
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Probably the best advice is to watch the fishermen, not the ones in the tavernas drinking
ouzo, but the guys that are out moving their boats into shelter. If you know the wind is
coming you’ll have plenty of time to find a secure berth but always remember the katabatic
nature of the meltemi and how winds can howl over the tops of the islands and land masses
and reach down to what seemed to be a sheltered shore and safe anchorage. Expect to get as
much anchor chain on the seabed as possible; use your kedge anchor; run shorelines — it’s
always wise to have a dinghy ready to help with deployment. If in doubt, chuck it out! And
always have an already prepared plan to move to a safer spot, in good time, should that
become necessary.
VHF Channel 16 — forecasts are announced at 9am local time and a number of other
channels are used to broadcast the forecast.
http://www.meteo/sailingmapf.asp — is one of the best web based forecast sites and seems
to be reasonably accurate in my experience.
http://poseidon.hcmr.gr/ — Poseidon Weather System — is good for a general synopsis on
a larger scale and it also has a very good swell predictor.
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BARBARY COAST PIRACY
Pirates struck fear into the hearts of Mediterranean sailors and anyone living near the coast
and it’s hardly surprising the word pirate comes from the Greek perian meaning attack in
view of the length of the coastline in Greece; the number of islands; and the myriad of tiny
coves providing pirate hideaways.
For centuries Mediterranean shipping using established trade routes was harried by pirates
who often operated from ad-hoc coastal locations. However as western expansionism
continuously pushed eastwards it progressively came into conflict with the Ottoman Empire
and its Muslim faith which changed the face of piracy in the area.
The Muslim Moors had finally been driven from Spain in 1492 and the Christian Spaniards
had pusued them across the coastline of North Africa as far as Tripoli by 1511. But over the
next 60 odd years leading pirates, including the Barbarossa brothers Aruj and Kheireddin,
defeated large Spanish naval and land forces and retook Algiers, Tripoli and Tunis to form
the Barbary States which became the Ottoman Empire’s western bulwark against
Christendom.
Eventually a truce was signed in 1581 between the Ottoman and Spanish Empires which
excluded the Barbary States leaving them free to pursue their own foreign policy and
openly embrace and encourage piracy against non-Muslim shipping which was regarded as
a religious duty. Each of the three states had their own ruler nominally under the direct
control of the Ottoman Sultan. Initially attacks were confined mainly to Spanish shipping
and possessions and as Spain ruled a large portion of Italy it too suffered.
Spain’s enemies were originally free from pirate attack but from the 1600s when England,
France and Holland made peace with Spain they too came under attack although by 1692
the powerful French and English fleets forced the Barbary States to make peace which
lasted during the Napoleonic Wars. But there was a resurgence in piracy between 1792 and
1815 against smaller nations who were forced to pay tribute to allow them to trade.
Interestingly, America fell into this small nation category having lost naval protection after
winning its War of Independence against the British Crown but with no means of protecting
its merchant ships the ex-colony was forced to conclude treaties with the Barbary States and
pay annual tribute to Tunis and Algiers and also supplied a 36-gun frigate to the latter.
Tripoli’s ruler was angered he had settled for less and also demanded a frigate and when
this was rejected he declared war on America in 1801. Two years later American frigate
Philapelphia ran aground on a sandbar at Tripoli harbour and was seized along with its 300
crew. An American raid on the harbour in 1804 saw the captured ship burnt but was unable
to breach the shore defences and release the crew who were forced into hard-labour.
America then supported a puppet ruler to run Tripoli and mounted a raid from Egypt which
involved a horrendous six week march across trackless desert sands. Their assault on Derna
Fort was co-ordinated with a supporting bombardment from offshore American ships and
was enough to secure the eventual release of the 300 captives on payment of a $60,000
ransom and American abandonment of the ruler they had sought to impose.
With Napoleon’s 1815 defeat at Waterloo the Great Powers switched their attention back to
the Barbary Coast nest of piracy with the French seizing Algiers in 1830 and the Ottoman
Empire taking direct control of Tripoli and Tunis. The corsair captains of the Taife Reisi
(Corsair’s Guild) had always sworn loyalty to the Ottoman Sultan in Istanbul and provided
men and ships, when required, to the Ottoman navy during time of war with Tunisian
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squadrons active during the Greek Wars of Independence in 1821 and 1826.
Many will have heard the stirring words and music of the American Marine Corps Hymn
without realising the line: To the Shores of Tripoli salutes the 1805 desert march made by
the seven marines accompanied by 40 Greeks and the Mameluke soldiers of the would-be
ruler. When Presley O’Bannon, the Irish-American commander, hoisted the Stars and Bars
over the captured fort it marked the first-ever US military success on foreign soil which
which cost the life of two marines.
O’Bannon’s bravery was recognised by the gift of a curved bejewelled Mameluke Sword,
copies of which are worn to this day by every Marine officer as part of their dress uniform.
Three USN destroyers were named after O’Bannon and Tripoli remains a revered Battle
Honour for the US Marines with a distinctive memorial sculpture at the US Naval Academy
in Annapolis which was the first war memorial erected in the USA.
William Bainbridge, captain of the captured Philadelphia, became an American hero in the
1812 war with Britain when he captured a frigate, and five USN warships have been named
in his honour. In a curious echo of the past the USS Bainbridge saw action against Somali
pirates off the African coast in April 2009 with the hostages freed and three pirates shot
dead.
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SCOURGE OF BARBAROSSA
The Sporades Islands have faced continual pirate attack since the earliest of times and were
even occupied for periods by the ferocious raiders who sought not only valuables and
provisions but men and women who could be sold into slavery. Fit males, particularly prized
as galley slaves, were permanently shackled to their oars with death often providing the only
release.
Some pirates treated captives relatively well but there’s little doubt this was mainly to
preserve their monetary value which could be realised at a slave auction or raised in ransom.
However, most had little interest in whether their human cargo lived or died as there was
always replacements to be seized. Such was the scale of the trade that it has been estimated
that approximately 1.25 million Europeans were taken as slaves by Mediterranean pirates.
No one was safe from attack and even the young Julius Caesar when captured by pirates
vowed they would be hunted down and executed when he was free and he kept his word
although some say his annoyance was caused more by the low level of ransom they put on his
head rather than his capture.
It’s too easy to dismiss the pirates simply as bloodthirsty monsters, striking without rhyme or
reason, with allegiance to no flag but their own. The real story is much more complex and is
intertwined with economic considerations; political intrigue and treaties; expansion of
geographic and trading empires; religious differences; and sometimes just personal grudges
or ambition.
And it’s also a mistake to think that piracy was conducted only by bloodthirsty Turks as from
the Crusades the Knights of Malta and other orders licensed pirates and privateers by
providing harbour facilities for a share in the booty. But many western Europeans including
ex Royal Navy sailors turned their sailing skills to good use and adopted the pirate life or
went Turk as it was known.
These experienced renegades were very useful to the old-style pirates and were able to impart
valuable information about western naval tactics and were also behind the introduction of
square-rigged sailing ships able to carry heavier cannon than the oared galleys.
For hundreds of years the North African Barbary Coast was crucial to pirate operations and in
many ways its creation and growth centred on the Barbarossa Clan whose name struck terror
whenever it was mentioned, particularly in the Sporades and surrounding areas.
The clan appears to have surfaced in the Aegean island of Lesbos where Ottoman Turk
Yakub Aga, settled after Ottoman army service and married Katerina, a local woman,
described variously as the widow or daughter of a Greek Orthodox priest. Yakub may even
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have received a land grant for taking part in the Ottoman ejection of the Genoese rulers from
the island and its Mytiline stronghold in 1462.
The couple had four sons: Ishak, Aruj, Khizr and Ilyas. Aruj and Ilyas became pirates in the
Levant while Khizr operated in the Aegean; and Ishak, the oldest, remained in Lesbos
running the growing family pottery business.
As Aruj and Ilyas were sailing homeward from a trip to Tripoli they were attacked by the
Hospitaller Knights of St John who operated as privateers from their fortified island base of
Rhodes and satellite Castle of Bodrum. Ilyas was killed in the fight and Aruj captured and
held in Bodrum Castle for three years.
Khizr eventually managed to locate and free his brother probably by paying a ransom to the
Hospitaller Knights against whom Aruj had developed a deep hatred which helped him
persuade an Ottoman Prince to give him a fleet of ships to fight the Knights who were
causing havoc to Ottoman shipping and commerce. His exploits and successes came to the
attention of the Mameluke Sultan in Cairo who licensed him to attack Mediterranean coasts
and islands held by Christians.
Aruj increased his fortune by sacking towns and ports and capturing dozens of ships
including a Sicilian warship which carried 380 Spanish soldiers and 60 knights. But he also
showed a far-sighted tactical touch when he transported tens of thousands of Muslims in the
years up to 1510 from a hostile Spain to North Africa which provided him with a pool of
fervent supporters who owed Aruj not just their life but their religious freedom. By 1510 he
was reckoned to be one of the richest men in the Mediterranean area.
The Muslim refugees called him Babu (Father) Aruj which sounded to Western ears like
Barbarossa translating to Redbeard in Italian. Then in August 1512, Aruj lost an arm in
battle against the Spanish after being struck by a cannonball. Flamboyantly, he had an
artifical limb fitted which was sheathed in silver and earned him the Turkish nickname Silver
Arm.
The loss of the limb did nothing to halt the pillaging pirate who must have been quite a sight
with his red hair and beard and silver arm. His fleet and followers continued to grow and in
1516, with his two remaining brothers by his side, he attacked and took Algiers and declared
himself Sultan.
But again Aruj showed great foresight by relinquishing his new title and Algiers to the
Ottoman Sultan. This guaranteed Ottoman Empire support for Aruj against Spain and Sultan
Suleiman also confirmed Aruj as Governor of Algiers and Chief Sea Governor of the Western
Mediterranean. As he tightened his grip on the interior of his new territory Aruj even attached
sails to cannon to move them more easily over the desert sands.
His seizure of Algeria provoked a response from Holy Roman Emperor Chales V and an
invasion was launched in May 1518 against Tlemcen in western Algeria which was held by
Aruj and his brother Ishak and their troops for 20 days before the brothers were killed and
Tlemcen fell.
Khizr was confirmed in place of Aruj by Sultan Selim I who sent reinforcements and
Tlemcen was retaken by December 1518. Khizr also took the name Barbarossa and
continued the transport of Muslim’s from Spain and it’s estimated 70,000 were brought to
North Africa by Khizr and his brother Aruj.
Following the deaths of his brothers Khizr launched an incessant series of raids on Spanish
and Italian coast, islands and shipping and when pillaging the Italian coast near Rome the
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church bells were rung in the Holy City in alarm as the Barbarossa Pirate was expected to
ravage the City.
In a mission which must have been close to Khizr’s heart he sent his fleet in 1522 to assist the
Ottoman attack on the Rhodes stronghold of the Knights of St John and forced the
Hospitallers not only from the island but to relinquish Bodrum Castle where Aruj had been
held a prisoner.
Khizr was summoned to Constantinople by Sultan Suleiman in 1832 and on the way he
encountered a fleet commanded by Admiral Andrea Doria near Preveza who fled after the
Ottomans captured seven of the Christian galleys. Later Sultan Suleiman met Khizr in
Constantinople’s Topkapi Palace and confirmed him as: Grand Admiral of the Ottoman Navy
and Chief Governor of North Africa.
After further crippling raids by Barbarossa, Pope Paul III was forced into action and
assembled a Holy League fleet under Admiral Andrea Doria which met Barbarossa off
Preveza in September 1538 and was routed by the Turkish Admiral.
Venice was forced to sign a humiliating peace treaty with Suleiman whereby he kept the
territory gained and was paid 3000,000 gold ducats in damages. Emperor Charles V even
tried to persuade Barbarossa to switch sides and offered him control of all Hapsburg
possession in North Africa and to become his Admiral in Chief.
Barbarossa sailed on to the Sporades fron Preveza and seized Skopelos Island where he
slaughtered the bulk of the population except for a few hundred who managed to escape to
Evia. The Ottoman admiral then headed to Skiathos and attacked the Kastro which
surrendered after seven days.
Some captives were forced to work in the shipyards and others, less fortunate, were taken as
oar-slaves for Ottoman galleys and all useable cannon were removed from the island.
Emperor Charles V went on to personally attack Algiers in 1541, despite opposition from
Admiral Doria whose worst fears were realised when a major storm blew-up and drove many
of the Spanish ships ashore and Charles was forced into a humiliating retreat.
The Emperor’s actions sparked-off years of unrelenting attacks on Spanish and Italian
possessions by Barbarossa and his fleet of over 200 ships which came close to destroying
western commerce in the Mediterranean and it became easier just to pay the pirates for safe
passage than to resist.
Barbarossa retired to Constantinople in 1545 and built a palace by the Bosphorus where he
died the following year. Seems that the peaceful life just didn’t agree with him! His main
achiement was his Preveza victory which turned the Mediterranean into an Ottoman pond
which lasted for 33 years until the 1571 Battle of Lepanto. He was buried in a tall mausoleum
at Besiktas ferry port on the European side of Istanbul, where his fleets used to assemble, and
his memorial stands alongside and is still saluted by Turkish warships heading for the
Mediterranean.
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PILOT BOOK HISTORY
When I decided to look at how sailing instructions and charts originated, little did I
comprehend the rich tapestry of human endeavour and the courage to face the unknown that
those early voyagers possessed and who each played their part in bringing us modern-day
navigation complete with electronic sat-nav systems.
I have just scratched the surface in my quest and can only wonder at the drive of those early
seafarers, from every part of the inhabited world, who set forth in their little boats and
sailed off into the unknown often wondering if they would ever see their home and loved
ones again.
But as the journeys grew longer in time and distance and confidence grew then the early
seafaring adventurers started taking notes of landmarks along their route and passing them
on orally or via drawings. These brave but rudimentary beginnings grew the charts that we
know today after a long journey over many centuries.
Sailing Directions have existed since man first started going to sea and to begin with
information was jealously guarded and only passed by word of mouth to family and friends
to identify the best fishing and hunting grounds which was often the key to survival in
small, and isolated, early communities.
Having spent many years living, studying and sailing on the west coast of Scotland, I often
observed the same reticence when locals, who earned their living from the sea, suddenly
became very vague when a stranger started asking where the best fishing grounds were.
The importance of the oral tradition is shown by the famous Viking Sagas which recounted
epic ocean voyages of direct passages from Scandinavia to Iceland and Greenland but no
on-board sailing instructions survive from the trips circa 900-1200 BC. The big
breakthrough for sailing directions came as early as 500 BC when increasing literacy saw
them being written down, as growing trade between far-flung and diverse communities
became a driving force for more and longer sea journeys.
Written Sailing Directions covering the Mediterranean and parts of Western Europe were
known as Periplus, from the ancient Greek word meaning sailing-around and they were
used by the Greeks, Romans and Phoenicians. Periplus manuscripts listed harbours; safe
anchorages; coastal landmarks; wind and tidal conditions; availability of fresh water and
other provisions; and distances between ports.
The list is surprisingly modern and spells out info that even today’s yacht skippers and
crews find helpful in planning and enjoying holiday trips.
It’s claimed the Phoenicians had written sailing directions as early as 1000 BC but the
earliest known is the Periplus of Hanno the Navigator from the 6th Century BC which
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described the African coast from Morocco to the Gulf of Guinea.
The Massaliot Periplus, now lost, dates from the 6th century BC and describes the sea
routes taken by Phoenician traders although Massaliot — present day Marseilles — was a
Greek colony. This Periplus appears to provide the first evidence of trade links existing
between northern and southern Europe which were largely fuelled by the trade in tin and
other metals mined in Britain.
The Periplus of Pseudo-Scylax, c350 BC, covers the Mediterranean from Gibraltar to the
Black Sea and back to West Africa and is now thought to be a Hellenic compilation named
in honour of Greek explorer Scylax of Caryanda.
About the Ocean was compiled c325 BC by Pytheas, a Greek native from the Marseilles
Greek colony, who reconnoitered the tin transport routes from Cornwall as well as
circumnavigating Britain, exploring the Scandinavian coasts and possibly reaching Iceland.
Increasing trade saw the limits of the classical world expanded as mirrored by the 2nd
Century AD Periplus of the Eryexplorithraean Sea describing the Red and Arabian Seas as
far as the Ganges River. But the Fall of the Roman Empire saw the loss of considerable
nautical as well as geographic knowledge with the next major advances not until the 13th
and 14th Centuries.
Portolan charts appeared almost at the same time as written sailing directions and were a
milestone in the often stormy voyage from the Dark Ages to the Renaissance. Compared to
earlier maps, they accurately depicted distances and coastal outlines within the limitation of
the navigational instruments to hand.
As the Age of Exploration progressed there was an explosion in geographic knowledge and
portolan charts, which initially only covered the Mediterranean, soon depicted the rapidly-
expanding frontiers of the known world.
The earlier written coastal pilot books and instructions evolved into the Portolan Charts,
taken from the Italian Portolano. The earliest surviving Mediterranean pilot is Lo
Compasso da Navigare which was published in the 13th Century. The maritime publishing
industry of the day was based in Genoa, Venice and Majorca and the maps produced
depicted North at the top instead of east which had previously been the norm for land maps.
Lo Compasso followed the Portolanos in listing coasts and harbours in a clockwise
direction and gave magnetic directions in the eight mediaeval winds.
In 1483 Pierre Garcie produced the Grand Routier et Pilotage covering the western coast of
France which over 200 years sparked hundreds of similar Rutters as the Routiers came to be
known en Anglais. The Rutters contained tidal information and navigational advice and also
illustrations of ports and the coastline from seaward.
The personal notebook carried by British seamen which logged voyage and anchorage
information were also known as Rutters. The written information they contained was highly
prized and often handed-down from father to son in a curious echo of the original oral
sailing instructions.
Countries with strong seafaring traditions eventually developed their own written sailing
instructions: the 15th C German Seebuch: the 16th C Portuguese Roteiro and 17th C Dutch
Zeeboek.
The main difference between the portolans of the Mediterranean and the Dutch Rutters was
the latter’s focus on tides and the seafloor as changing water depth at a port could create
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hazards. It also saw northern European mariners repeatedly sounding the bottom with a
tallow-filled lead providing sea bed samples. Sailors became aware of magnetic declination
between magnetic and true north and in the 1530s the affect of ferrous rocks and shipboard
iron on compasses was also identified.
The Portuguese became aware of just how important the maps were becoming
economically and had a state-imposed embargo to prevent their dissemination to foreign
governments and navies. One of the first actions taken by English privateer Sir Francis
Drake on boarding Spanish and Portuguese vessels was to seize their charts and roteiros.
As time passed especially with the expansion of European colonialism the collection of
hydrographic information and chart-making fell more and more to governments and their
navies.
The famous 17thC Secretary of the Admirality Samuel Pepys said: ‘A seaman has
something to learn all the days of his life, either of sands, shoal, currents and other things’. I
have the feeling that Pilot Books have a healthy future although it might be on I-Phones
which sort of boxes the compass as the pilot book, albeit in electronic form, once again
becomes the personal property of the sailor who carries it with them.
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Index
ALONISSOS ISLAND:
Ag Dimitrios Beach | Ag Gerakas | Blue Cave | Firakos Bay | Gialia Cove | Kalamakia
Harbour | Kokkinokastro | Lalarias Beach | Lefto Gyalos Bay | Manolas Isle | Marpoenda
Beach | Megali Ammos Bay | Megali Mourtia Bay | Mikro Mourtia Cove | Milia Bay |
Mourtia Bay | Nes Moules Reef | Palarias Cove | Patatiri Bay | Patatiri Harbour | Rousoumi
Gialos Bay | Steni Vala Harbour | Tsoukalia Beach | Tzortzi Bay | Vithisma Beach | Votsi
Bay | Vr. Ammoni Rock | Vrisitsa Cove | Vr. Stavro
DESERTED ISLANDS:
PELAGOS ISLAND: Gournoumandri Cove | Kyra Panagia Bay | Lekhouni Cove |
Monastery Bay | Paigniou Cove | Planitis Bay | Steno Rock | Yialos Cove
ADHELFI ISLAND | PIPERI ISLAND | PRASSO & PAPPOUS ISLANDS |
PSATHOURA ISLAND | SKANTZOURA ISLAND | YIOURA ISLAND
EVIA ISLAND:
Agiocambos | Ifalos Oreon Reef | Loutra Adipso | Likhades Channel | Mantoudi | Nea Pirgos |
Orei | Paralia Ag Anna | Pasarapouli Harbour | Pefki Harbour | Pili | Pondikonisi Island
PELION AEGEAN COAST:
Ag Ionniannis | Damoucharia | Katiogorgios
PERISTERA ISLAND:
Klima Bay | Kokkalias Bay | Likorema Island | Livadakia Bay | Peristeri Bay | Vasiliko Bay |
Vasiliko Cove | Wreck Bay | Xero Bay
SKIATHOS ISLAND:
Achladies Beach | Agia Eleni Beach | Agistri Beach | Ak Kastro | Ak Pounta Reef | Ak Sozan
| Arko Island | Delfiniki Beach | Dorancara Schism | Elias Beach | Fonissos Cave | Kalamaki
Peninsula | Kanapitsa Beach | Katavothra Bay | Kolios Beach | Koukounaries Bay |
Koukounaries Harbour | Koutsouri Beach | Krassas Beach | Krifi Ammos Cove | Lalaria
Beach | Lazaretta Beach | Lehouni Bay | Mandraki Beach | Meg Aselinos Beach | Mikros
Aselinos Beach | Nikotsara Cove | Ormos Siferi | Plakes Beach | Platanias Bay | Platania
Beach | Prassonisso Islet | Repi Island | Skiathos Approaches | Skiathos Harbour | Troulous
Beach | Tsoungria Island | Tzanaries Beach | Vr Arapakia Reef | Vr Marines Reef |
Vromolimnos Beach | Xanemos Beac
SKOPELOS ISLAND:
Ag Georgios | Ag Ioannis Church | Agnondas Harbour | Ak Gourouni Rocks | Amarandos
Cove | Andrines Coves | Loutraki Harbour | Dhasia & Islets | Dragons Schism | Elios Harbour
| Glisteri Beach | Kastani Beach | Limnonari Bay | Mamma Mia Church | Mikra Island | Milia
Beach | Panormous Bay | Skopelos Harbour | Skopelos Town Beach | Stafylos Bay | Tripiti
Cave | Velanio Beach | Vr. Ira Islet
SKYROS ISLAND:
Achili Bay Marina | Achladi Cove | Agnou & Vales Coves | Atsitsa Bay | Fokas Bay |
Glyfadha Cove | Kalamitsa Gulf | Kalogria Bay | Kalogria Bay (Inner) | Linaria Harbour | NW
Skyros & Podhi Rocks | Pefkos Bay | Renes Bay | Skyropoula Island | Skyros South Coast |
Skyros SW Coast | Skyros Town (Chora) | Tris Boukes Bay |
TRICKERI & OREI CHANNELS:
Akhelion | Ak Kiriaki | Ag Konstantinos | Aryonissos Island | Chondri Ammos Bay | Glifa |
Kavoulia Lighthouse | Loutro Cove | Ptelou Bay | Pigadhi | Platania | Vathikelou Bay
267
VOLOS GULF:
Affisos Harbour | Ag Ioannis Cove | Agria Harbour | Amaliopolis Harbour | Donkey Island |
Katio Gatsia | Kotte Village | Loutraki Cove | Milina Bay | Mitzellas Bay | Nea Anchialos |
Nies Bay | Palaio Trikeri Island | Palaio Trikeri Quay | Pardhalos Bay | Petraki Cove | Pithos
Bay | Sourpis Bay | Sunsail Base | Trikeri Bay | Vathoudi Bay | Volos City Harbour | Zasteni
Cove
268
Содержание
Title Page 4
Copyright Notice 5
Introduction 6
A - Skiathos Island 8
B - Skopelos Island 50
C - Alonnisos Island 77
D - Peristera Island 107
E - The Deserted Islands 117
F - Gulf of Volos - Pelion Coast 158
G - Evia Island 211
H - Skyros Island 229
Sporades Weather 257
Barbary Coast Piracy 259
Scourge of Barbarossa 261
Pilot Book History 264
Index 267
269

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2

© Delphinus Publishing Ltd Psathoura

Skiathos Island harbours & anchorages

© Delphinus Publishing Ltd

© Delphinus Publishing Ltd

© Delphinus Publishing Ltd

© Delphinus Publishing Ltd

Rocks and reefs just south of Ak Pounta are

© Delphinus Publishing Ltd

Arko Island, located 1.5 NM to the SE of

© Delphinus Publishing Ltd

Two distinct reefs lie between Nisos Arko and

© Delphinus Publishing Ltd

© Delphinus Publishing Ltd

PRASSONISO ISLET & Prassoniso

© Delphinus Publishing Ltd

Vrak Prassonisso is a small islet a few cables

© Delphinus Publishing Ltd

© Delphinus Publishing Ltd

39°7'.9N 023°24'.8E 30 0.5 miles

© Delphinus Publishing Ltd

© Delphinus Publishing Ltd

© Delphinus Publishing Ltd

© Delphinus Publishing Ltd

Flisvos Minimarket 200 metres

© Delphinus Publishing Ltd

© Delphinus Publishing Ltd

200 metres Bakery

© Delphinus Publishing Ltd

© Delphinus Publishing Ltd

© Delphinus Publishing Ltd

The Dragon’s Schism lies 200m east of Ak

© Delphinus Publishing Ltd

The bay is well-protected from meltemi winds

© Delphinus Publishing Ltd

© Delphinus Publishing Ltd

100 metres Cave

© Delphinus Publishing Ltd

200 metres Tripiti Cave

Ormos Glisteri is a lovely spot with pebble

Ag Ioannis Kastri is a beautiful church perched on top of a rocky peninsula in northern

© Delphinus Publishing Ltd Korakas

Alonnisos Island harbours & anchorages

Mikro Mourtia 600 metres

© Delphinus Publishing Ltd

© Delphinus Publishing Ltd

© Delphinus Publishing Ltd

Megalos Mourtia is an open bay with a pebble

© Delphinus Publishing Ltd

© Delphinus Publishing Ltd

© Delphinus Publishing Ltd

Ormos Milia is a large bay on the SE coast of

© Delphinus Publishing Ltd

The red sandstone cliffs at Kokkinokastro are

Ormos Tzortzi is north of Kokkinokastro and

Steni Vala Bay offers good protection from all

© Delphinus Publishing Ltd

© Delphinus Publishing Ltd

Ag Dimitrios is an alluvial stone and pebble

© Delphinus Publishing Ltd

cave 39°14'.9N 023°58'.4E

© Delphinus Publishing Ltd

A shark’s tooth shaped rock (Vrak Moro) and