Trade Mark

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• DE LUXE MANUAL
 •

INTERNATIONAL SYMBOLS
These symbols have been devised for international use. An experienced
seamstress will find that she can recognize the various pattern parts by their
shape alone. However, if you are not familiar with identifying pattern shapes,
always refer to this page when in doubt. You will become accustomed to
these signs very quickly.

DOUBLE LINE (see ----;...--. )

A - FRONT ----- place on fold
B - BACK of material
c SIDE t .t ..... - FRILL DOUBLE LINE - A double line appears on several
F = SLEEVE - gathering and
patterns. You must cut the pattern aJong that line
to make two or more pieces, then add seam allowances
f CUFF easing on both sides.
G COLLAR = join corresponding
marks
K - BELT - Grain of material
p - POCKET -
2X Cut two times
a PLEAT
w - WAISTBAND 5• - Half number mark
z EPAULETIES
aS - SKIRT front ZIPPER
~ - SKIRT back
aT = front
T r ousers/Pants/Slacks or = DART
bT = back
Whenever there are other important mack.s on the
y - YOKE pattern, we interrupt the double line for clarity.
l:J.. - sleeve front - FACING GUIDE
You must nevertheless consider this to be a con-
tinuous line, which must be cut all the way down
000 - parts of pattern or across. Make sure to allow scam allowance of
overleaf 5/8" on both sides of the pattern before actually
- -- - -- -- -- -
• -
center f ront/
center back
D ividing Line
between 2 different
r>a1 tern diagrams
cutting the material.

sewing I ine H
without seams - - - - - - Dividing line between
*The H on the pattern indicates that beJow that
broken line, you must adjust the e nlarger to
cutting I ine BUST measurement yoo r HIP measurement. However, all waistline
for short version and HIP measurement dots should be made while the enlarger ia set
of garment or sleeve (see* at right) on BUST measurement.

© 1870 by OOT '•1Urn Co., N.Y. Prln1od In U.S A Pages 8 and 8 © 1969 0 . Mrak
Published by INSTITUTE OF PATTERN DESIGN INC. P.O. Box 1662 New York N.Y . 10022

INTRODUCTION
BE SURE 'l'O READ THIS PAGE CAREFULLY BEFORE MAKING YOUR FIRST PATTERN
In your hands is the simplest, fastest, and surest
system ever devised for making and cutting an
accurate pattern to your own exact size. By following
these easy, step-by-step instructions, you will be
doing in minutes what would take profes..<;ional
pattern makers years to learn. You will learn how to
make your own conect fit patterns ... how to
transfer darts and make minor adjustments to create
fashions to suit your mdividual taste ... bow to
) create your own exclusive fashions or copy your
favorite styles.
The de luxe DOT PATI'ERN manual has over a
hundred designs and a large variety of basic patterns.
The complete value of this manual is not in the actual
designs but in the pattern diagrams. Regardless bow
fashion changes, sleeves, collars, bodices, etc. remain
constant and you can make the style you want - now
or twenty years from now!
The DOT PATTERN system is the first truly
important home sewing development in years. This
system in conjunction wjth your own home sewing
talent enables you t.o create the very latest expensive
fashions at a fraction of their retail cost ... season
after season, year after year.
With DOT PATTERN you can always be sure that
the dress you wear is exclusive and the only one in
your community. Why? With tl1e large and compre-
hensive selection of interchangeable patterns which
cover practically every style, you have the proper
foundatjon to create and design your own garment.
Simply select the sleeve from one model; a collar
from another; and insert them into a bodice of your
1
•
choice ... or take the skirt or slacks from yet another
model and "mix and match" the parts into a style of
your own creation according to your own individual
taste.
DOT PATTERN doesn't stop here. With it comes a
service to keep you perpetually on the "best dressed"
list. The creators of DOT PATTERN constantly seek
out the newest high-fashion seasonal styles from
every fashion center of the world. These garments are
available to you in four seasonal supplemen~ each
year. Each fashion supplement contains at least 50
designs and hundreds of interchangeable patterns.
The last page of this manual contains coupons for
ordering the DOT PATTERN fashion supplements.
INCHES AND CENTlMETERS: Don't be confused
about the size of the numbers you find on the DOT
PATTERN enlarging ruler and on the patterns. You
will get used t.o them very quickly. The DOT
PATIE RN system is based on centimeters. Just
accept the centimeters as being numbers ... nothing
but numbers. Your DOT PATTERN tape measure has
inches on one side and centimeters on the other.
Simply take your bust or hip measurement and read
the number. Don't make the mistake of trying to
convert into inches. When you have started with
centimeters, FORGET INCHES.
After a little practice with your first few simple
patterns, you will find out how easy this system is.
As you gain more experience and confidence, you
should be able to draft patterns of your own design
like a professional dressmaker.
 •

First, a fe'W general no~es ...

This is how the DOT PATTERN System works. With a selected miniatwe pattern as your
guide, you will be marking several dots on a large sheet of paper or any other inexpensive
pattern-making material (unbleached muslin, pellon, old bedsheets, wallpaper lining, etc.).
You will be using the special DOT PATTERN enlarging ruler for correct placement of the
dots. After all dots have been marked, you wilJ connect them using the DOT PATTERN
French curve rule. What you will have is an exact duplicate of the selected pattern, enlarged
to your size according to your own individual body measurements. NOW LET'S START ...

First ...
Take your bust measurement. Place your DOT tape over the
broadest part of your back and bring it forward and down to
measure across the fullest part of the bust. (It is recommended
that you do not take this measurement yourself).

Then ...
Take your hip measurement. Place the tape over the broadest
part of the buttocks and bring it forward and up to measure •
across the fullest part of the stomach. Note: for greatest
accuracy, wear only your foundation garments when
taking your bust and hip measurements.
\

•
And Then ...
/ Place a large sheet of inexpensive pattern-making
• material on a pattern cutting board. Scissors, a
•
sof~lead pencil, thumbtacks and a straigb~edge
'
-~·-- ruler are all the additional tools you need.

2
 •
•
6 steps and your pattern IS
ready! A-B-C and 1-2-3
A,B,C ... Take the loose-leaf page containing the desired pattern
out of the book. Fold the page in half and anchor it to
J B the pattern-making material you have chosen with two
Put a pin or thumbtack tac.ks. Do not cut the selected pattern out of the page.
into this bole.
-· THERE IS A CROSS FOR EVERY PA'rI'ERN. MOST
ARE INSIDE THE PATl'ERN; A FEW ARE DIRECTLY
OUTSIDE THE PATTERN.

0
0
.....

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"'.....m UI 30
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..... 1 6 1 2 3 4 2 J • 6 1
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.
... iMI
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\liljl DOT SYSTEM f'AT f'ENO

Unscrew the lock nut and

slide the ruler until the • Place the pin or thumbtack exactly in the center of
line below yom required "' this cross.
measurement appears in
the window as illustrated
above. Tighten the lock
nut and your DOT enlarg-
ing rule is ready for use.
-
)

and ... 1, 2, 3,
- 3
 •
•

YOUR PIN IS NOW IN THE

CENTER OF THE CROSS
There are lines around every
pattern. Above every line you
find a figure.

3
Now go to the next line 63
and to the next 64 until you
have marked them all.

1, 2, 3 ...
Start with any line you like
and place your enlarging ruler
exactly on the line (Arrow No 1)
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Once you have completed all the dots remove the ruler, but don't re-
move tl1e pattern until you have made sure that all points are marked
correctly. Any errors can easily be rectiiied by putting the pin back
in the center of the cross, leaving the sketch as a guide.
Join the dots with the curve rule, never joining more than two dots
on a straight line or more than three on a curve.
If you cannot join three dots on the curve rule, join the first two
and then juggle the curve rule to join the next two. When you have
joined all the dots you should have an outline of the miniature pattern
enlarged to your individual measurements.

4
 ''DOT PATTERN'' Method of Transferring and Shifting Darts*
In o rder to alter the size of patterns, it is of utmost importance to be able to shift darts.
They must always point to the highest point (apex) of the curves of the body (bust, hips, etc.)
in the corrected size, and they must end one to two inches short of the apex.
The method of transfening and shifting is always the same, even when a dart has to be
shifted only one inch. The key to the DOT method of shifting is the use of a " pivot" (the point
where the center line of the old dart, when extended, crosses the center line of the desired new dart).

Find your apex by
measuring Lhe distance
1 from the center of
your shoulder seam to
the highest. point of
your bust on your
body. Mark the point
on the re-sized pattern.
Then measure from
your underarm seam
lA to the highest point of
your bust on your
body. Mark that point
on the pattern. The
point where the two
marks meet on the pat-
tern is the exact posi-
tion of the apex.
You may place the
new dart in any posi-
2 tion that suits your
taste and compliments
your figure. Draw a
line for the new dart
'\apex so that it points toward
the apex and extends
beyond it if necessary,
until it is past the cen-
ter line of the old dart.

Extend the center
line of the exisling
3 dart until it crosses
lht' line of lhe desired
new ciart.. 'rhe spot
wherP th~ two lme:;
cross is the "pivot".
Starting at the outside Cut out the old dart
dots of the existing on the lines you just
4 dart, draw new lines made to the pivot.
on each side of the old Then cut along the
dart to the point of line of the desired
the pivot. new dart, also to the
pivot. This will give
you two pieces, en-
abling you to close
the old dart. Seal it
with scotch tape.

*Patent Applied For

5
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WHEN TRANSFERRING DARTS

\ To bring the new dart To shorten the new )

\ to its correct length
6A \ (1-2 inches from th e
\ apex), shorten or
\ in half and draw a
\
lengthen the new dart
by first scotch-taping
a piece of paper under
the opening.
dart to tbe correct
7A length, divide the
width of the new dart
new center line to the
pivot. Then make a
dot 1-2 inches from
the apex. Draw aew
lines from that dot to
the outside dots o f
the new dart.

WHEN SHIFTING DARTS )

Draw a line from the To bring the new dart

After completing step
68
5, shorten or lengthen
the new dart to the
apex. The apex is al-
ways the pivot in shift-
ing darts.
to the correct length
78 -
~
center of the shoulder
seam to the new pivot 88 (1-2 inches short of the
0 (apex). Then repeat apex), repeat steps 6-A
u and 7-A.
<0 step 5, but in reverse.
- (Cut o ut what is now
Lhe new dart. Then eut
along the line you just
made to the pivot.
Close the old dart and
seal it with scotch
tape.)

6
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Iinportant points to reinen:iber

l . Collars and sleeves lie above the waist. Therefore, use your
bust measurement when makin.g these parts of a garment.
2. When enlarging patterns for coats or jackets, set your enlarger
two nurohers higher than your actual measurement, e.g.• ii
your actual measurement is 96, set the enlarger to 98, etc.
6. The darts, where applicable. are indicated on the miniature
patterns. To obtain the best results, mark and decide how
much the darts must be taken in when you have your basted
garment on you for the fitting. Thus you have ample
opportunity for a perfect fit, due to the flexibility of ad-
justing the darts exactly to your individual taste.

3. To make facings, interfacings and linings on coats and heavier
apparel, simply use the same patterns as used for the rest of
the garment, as they must be of the same shape and size.
(See diagram below.)
7. The waistbands, belts and expendable collars, the length of
which can only be decided by your individual measurements,
are marked with two extension arrows I w
meaning that they must be adjusted accordingly .
..
:- ..

4. To lower or raise the neckJine, or to change it to a V, U or

square line, sirnply move the dots to suit your own desire.

5. To obtain the correct measurement for the entire length

l of the garment, take the tape measure and start from the
shoulder seam measuring over the apex of the bust to the
Mark facing on paper
pattern as indicated on
waist.line; then proceed to the desired total length (allo\Ying diagram. Cut out main
for hem) . Mark the length on your paper pattern, then use pattern on material (E)
the same procedure for your back pattern. The length or then cut facing from
width or any part of the pattern can if necessary be adjust- papel' pattern (F).
ed the same way by moving the dots in the desired direction r'.
before you cut the pattern.

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Waistline adjust1nent.
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c To avoid pleating lhe palf.ern for shoner torso for short-waisted people or
splicing it for long-waisted people, simply move the waistline dot higher or
lower. To find exactly where your 'vaistline is, measure from your center
•,. shoulder seam over the apex to the waistline and mark the same on the pat-
tern. Then move the side seam waistline dot accordingly. Now draw a new
lil1e fro m underarm dot to the new waistline dot and then continue to the
botton1 of the pattern. Tl1e same waistline dot can also be moved in
horizontal directions, either way, for wider or narrower waist. The
flexibility of sucl1 movement of the waistline dot gives you an excel~
lent opportunity to style any basic line you desire.

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H i gher 'I II
l•-:wf.:aitftlne
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••••• ~~~ST LI NE I I
'y
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I lower Shoulder width adjustment. ~

I Wa ls1llne
I I To make a wider shoulder, first draw ar1 extension line on the existing
I
I I shoulder line as illustrated. Measure your actual shoulder widlb and mark
I I it with a new dot on the extension line. Pivot the French curve to the
l/
newly placed dot and dra'v the armhole.
For a narrow shoulder, place the new dot on the existing shoulder
line to comply \ViU1 your required widf.b, then pivot the French curve to
line up with the ne\vly placed dot and draw the armhole.
Use the same procedure for the back pattern.

8
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hovv to buy
exact aIDount of 1I1aterial -----
Mark space on floor or table top the same width as desired fabric. Place cut-out
paper patterns for all parts of the garment on this space. Arrange so that all pieces
are as close Logether as possible and the straight-of-grain arrows run m the proper
direction. Be sure to allow for seams. Measure the length of space occupied by the
patterns and you will have the correct size of material needed for your garment.

asseinbly of gar1nent
Before cutting into fabric, pin paper patterns together and try on for size and fit. This will prevent mistakes in cutting and avoid
waste of material. Be sure to allow for seams on the material before cutting. A good allowance is 5/8".
J • Fold material \vith right side facing and pin patten1 pieces into position on material. Mark all details (cutting Line, darts, pleats,
pockets, etc.) with pins or tailor tacks or tracing wheel or chalk.
• Pin and sew darts, style lines, pleats and yokes.
• Pin hack and front shoulder seams together. Have neck points matching. Now stitch. Shoulder dart should face away from
center; bust dart should face down. Smooth out and press
• Sew in zipper at front or back as indicated.
• Attach coUar, cuffs, pockets, etc.
• Pin side seams together. Have waistline, underarm, hip and hem points matching. Smooth out and press.
• Pin or tack hem. Then slip-stitch or herringbone.
• Smooth out and press sleeves.
• Ease sleeve head over roll at upper shoulder, being sure front of sleeve (marked with a star on the miniature pattern) is attached
to front of bodice. Pin sleeve into position starting with the highest point of the sleeve joined to the center point of shoulder
and center front of sleeve at annhole edge, down toward underarm seam of the garment. T11e sleeve seam must line up with the
underarm seam. Stitch with eased side up, starting at same point as wl1en taclring. Repeat the same process for back of sleeve.
)
• For easing, only one row of No. 3 machine stitchJng is required for sleeve. Pull Lhread to ease and avoid small pleats unless
sleeve is to be gathered. For gathered sleeves. three rows of machine stitching are necessary. Sew on center row.
• Finish off garmenL.

9

IInportant Sevving Hints
PINNING & BASTING
1. Always pin before basting. When pinning 2. Baste wiLh short stitches about 1/2" from
l.wo pieces together, match the notches. the edge. Check with a gauge for accuracy.
Put the pins in perpendicular to the edge.
HAND SEWING
-- - - - --- - - -t-1--1-•I._
4. Use padding sLitches when sewing coats 5. When gathering by hand, put in two or
and suits. more rows of small hand stitches.
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3. Use diagonal or tailor's basting for collars
and facings.
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6. For plain hen1miJ.1g, use small stitches and
catch up a thread or two of the fabric
from under the hem. Pass the needle
through I.he folded-over raw edge. This
method is not suitable for dress hems.
 •

HAND SEWING (continued)

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7 . Io bllod hemming, the stitches are simi- 8. Hemming by slip stitches is invisible 9. When slip stitching lining, run the
lar to plain hemming stitches except that in both the wrong and right sides and needle first into the upper creased
the spaces between lhe stitches are is used for dress hems. edge and then into the other fold of
longer and the needle should catch up material.
only a tiny thread of lhe material under
the fold . T his stitch is used for dress
hems.
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l O. For backstitching, Lake one sLitch for· 11. ln overcasting, long straight seams 12. Chain stitch. 13. Feather stitch.
ward. Go baclt h alfway on t his stitch can be pinned to the table.
and take a nother stitch forward.Con-
tinue, backing up halfway each time.

SEAMS

-.. -- -.... --- ----- -------* ·-------- --

14. Plain machine stitched seam.
"-------- - _____ .. ---------
/------- __ ,.. __
15. Plain seam with edges turned in. 16. French seam. This seam is suitable for 17. Flatfell seam. First stitch a p lain seam.
lingerie and children's dresses. Stitch a Then trim one edge close to the stitch-
plain seam on the right side o[ the gar· ing. Turn in the olher raw edge, t-urn it
ment about 1/8" from the raw edge. over the trimmed edge and stitch close
Turn over the wrong side and stitch a to the edge.
second seam d eep enough to cover the
raw edge.
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- - - -
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18. Seam on bias edge. In order to prevent 19. Real lapped seam. Turn one edge over
bias fabric from stretching in the seam, on lhe seam allowance o f about 3/8"
pin it on tissue paper. Remove the paper and baste it on the other piece so that
after stitching the seam. t he seam edges meet. Stitch about 1/8"
from the fold edge.
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-.- ------
......... - - -
--------- /

\
------ ------ •
(- - -- ----------
a

20. False lapped seam. Stitch a plain seam
and trim one edge back. Stitch the other
seam allowance on the right side at about
1/4'' from the first seam.
20a. False lapped seam, double sLitched.
21. Cording piping. Turn a bias strip round
the cording. Machine stitch close to the
cord , using a cording foot.
22. Slot seam . Cut a strip of fabric the shape
and length of the seam. Run a basting
thread through the middle. Turn each
seam edge under, forming tucks. Baste
each t uck edge over the underlay and
stitch on the right side.

)
y---- 23. Seam with plain piping.

SEAM FINISHES

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- -- - -- --- -- .......

---- ------------ /
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/ /

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24. Overcasting raw edges, finished 25. Overcasting edges stitched together. 26. Overcasting a notched seam.
separately.
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----------------

27. Bound seam edges. This type of seam

26a. Curved seam pressed flat. binding is suitable for unlined jackets
and coats. Use bias binding.

-
-------- 28. Rolled seam edges. Join the seruns in
) I.he usual way. Roll the edges tightly
with your thumb and forefinger and
sew witb slanting stitches near the
seam line.

-- --
) -------- - -

29. The seam finished with catch stitches is 30. How to handle the crossing of two
suitable for woolen fabrics. 13 sea ms neatly.
 •
HEMS

--
•

--
---
-- -- -- -
31. Slip-stitched hem with raw edge turned 32. Hem finished with ribbon seam binding. 33. Hem held down with catch stitches.
under and stitched.

35. Narrow hemmed edge, stitched and rolled.

36. Narrow hemmed edge with scallop or shell

34. Curved hem, with fullness l1eld in. Tuin -. . ---=--=-====--

---
.,,,,..
-- ---- --- --
-- -. -- . . .
-- --..
............
finish. Turn io the raw edge for a narrow
hem and baste. Take two stitches over this
up the raw edge. Hold the fullness of the -~...,,..tvv-.1""~""'""""""'
~
....
......
--...~,,
............ hem at one end, drawing the thread up
edge in with small pleats or gathers. , tightly. Now pass the needle through the
-----
-- --
~ ---
---~--~/.
---:..
hem and bring it out at a point about 1/4"
from the first stitcl1es and take ~wo more
stitches over the hem.

37. Stitched decorative hem. Pink the raw

edge.

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CORNERS

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-
38. Hem faced with bias binding. Machine
slilch the bias strip on the seam edge,
-- \\ -- - 40. Corners at seam crossings.

righl sides Joined logeLher. Tum up the 39. l l ow t.o finish corners neatly.
hem about. 1/4" from tbe stitched Line.
'furn under the raw edge of U1e bias
binding and slip stiLcb onto tJ1e fabric.

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41. Corners with bias facing. Follow steps 42. Sewing lhe dart. 43. Waistline dart..
a and b. a. marking the dar L a. mark ing Lhe dart
b. stitching the dart. b. stitching the dart
c. slashing Lhe dart c. slashing and pressing the dart

15
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BIAS BINDING
•

PLEATS
a b
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44. Cutting the bias strips.
45. Binding the fabric with plain bias strip.
- - - -
46. To sew stitched pleats, always stitch
Machine stitch the bias strip to the edge pleats up towards the waistline.
of the garment, right sides together. a. correct
Fold tJ1e other raw edge of the binding b. wrong
under and hem it to the seam edge on
the wrong side. )

PI,EATS (continued)
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a
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47. Box pleats and inverted pleats. 48. Pleat seam in Lhe hemHne. Slash into 49. Inverted pleat in the seam.
the seam allowances of the pleat, press
them open and flat.

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CORNERS
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38. Hem fac~'d with bias binding. Machine -- ~---

----- -
40. Corners at scam crossings.
'- - - - -
stitcJ1 the bias strip on the seam edge, '\.

nght sides joined t.ogt>ther. T urn up the 39. Ilow to finish corners neat.ly.
hem about 1/ 4" from the stitched line.
'l'urn wtder th e raw edge of the bias
binding and slip stitch onto the f abric.

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41. Corners \YJl.b bias facing. Follow steps 42. Sewing the dart. 43. Waistline dart.
a and b. a. marlcing the dart a. marking the dart
b. stitching the dart b. stitching the dart
c. slashing the dart c. slashu1g and pressing the dart

15
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BUTTON HOLES
I r---------,
_L -- I
--.:----- _
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_J 50. Bound one-piece buttonhole.
a. Baste a facing strip to the right side of
a b the garment over the spot marked fot
the buttonhole.
b. St.itch on both sides of the basted line.
sewing 3/8" from the basting.
c. Slash through the center o n the basted <1?~~-------~
line, making diagonal slashes up to the
corners.
d . Draw the strip througl1 to tl1e wrong
c d side, forming an even binding and lay-
ing inverted pleats at the ends.
e. Push the edges of the fabric in all
around the buttonhole and hem.
f. The finished buttonhole.

I J
.,,-----------.
e f
:.~~-~=~~-~-~-J 51. Bound two-piece buttonhole with piping.
This buttonhole is similar to No. 50 but
is worked with a piping.

;----
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______ -

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52. Plain worked buttonhole.
53. Worked buttonhole with keyhole.

c
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•
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54 and 55. Setting in a plain sleeve. Gather th~ ful lness at the cap of the sleeve in two rows of a b
small running stitches. Pin the gathered sleeve into I.he armhole and baste it in.

)
58. Bound pockets.
SLIDE FASTENERS a. Cut a piece of suitable fabric twice the
desired length of the pocket and about l" wider
than the pocket opening plus 1" seam allowance.
A Mark I.he position of the pocket opening 1,, be-
/
/ low the middle of the ptece of fabric. Center
/
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/
/
'' opening of the garment, with the right sides to-
/
/
'' gether. Baste ihe pocket and garment together

... ........... /
/ ~"':' '' on this mark. Siiich about 1/4" away from the
pocket mark and across the edges. Now slash
'
/
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'-./ /
/ /
/
'' b. Draw the pocket through to the wrong
/
/
/' \
/
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in small inverted pleat.s. Baste the creased
/
edges together and stitch a rectangle around
)
'
56. Exposed plain zipper. 57. Concealed zipper.
the binding.

18
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I
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59. Flapped pocket. c. Proceed as under No. 58 c.

a. Proceed as for pocket No. 58.
b. Fold the lower section of the pocket
so that it completely fills the opening and
touches the seam on t.h(• upper edge, form-
ing a welt.
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