CBLM Tle H.E Gr. 10 Dressmaking

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MODULE 1

QUALIFICATION TITLE : TAILORING NC II

UNIT OF COMPETENCY : DRAFT AND CUT PATTERN FOR


MEN’S CASUAL APPAREL

MODULE TITLE : DRAFTING AND CUTTING PATTERN


FOR MEN’S CASUAL APPAREL

NOMINAL DURATION : 140 HOURS

TAILORING NC II

1
MODULE INTRODUCTION

The module covers the knowledge, skills, and attitudes required in


drafting and cutting of patterns for men’s casual apparel. It includes
planning the garment design, taking body measurements, drafting of
basic/block pattern and cutting the final patterns for men’s casual apparel.

EXPECTED OUTCOME

At the end of this module, you should be able to:


a. plan garment design;
b. take client’s body measurements;
c. draft basic/block pattern; and
d. manipulate and cut final pattern.

2
PRETEST

Directions: Select the correct answer from the options given for each item.
Write the answer in your quiz notebook.

1. What factor in garment planning is considered to suit one’s daily


lifestyle?
a. personal needs
b. resources
c. time and event
d. any of the above
2. Which characteristic refers to the smoothness or dullness of a fabric?
a. color
b. hue
c. intensity
d. texture
3. How are cotton fabrics different from rayon and polyester?
a. lustrous
b. resilient
c. shrink-resistant
d. stronger when wet
4. Which devices are used to accurately draft patterns?
a. cutting tools
b. measuring/shaping tools
c. pressing tools
d. sewing tools
5. Which tool is best in shaping slight curves of the pattern?
a. French curve
b. hip curve
c. L-square
d. triangle
6. Which point of the body is located 4 inches (10.2 cm.) below shoulder
tip point?
a. chest point
b. elbow point
c. knee point
d. shoulder neck point
7. What part is measured when a tape measure is placed across the
shoulder tip points?
a. chest
b. crotch or rise
c. shoulder
d. waist
8. What measurement is taken from the nape (at the back of the neck)
down to the desired length?
a. length of long pants
b. length of shirt
c. length of sleeve
d. length of short pants

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9. In order to locate the waistline, what should be done before
measuring body parts?
a. let the client point to his/her waist
b. put a piece of tape or adhesive on the waist of the client
c. tie a string on the waistline of the client
d. any of the above
10. Which method is correct in taking an accurate length of long
sleeves?
a. from shoulder tip point passing elbow to the wrist
b. from the shoulder tip point passing halfway bent elbow to the
wrist
c. from shoulder tip point passing full bent elbow to the wrist
d. any of the above
11. Which of the following is NOT a part of short pants?
a. cuff
b. belt carrier
c. placket
d. pocket
12. Which CANNOT be applied on men’s polo shirt?
a. Chinese collar
b. continuous collar
c. executive collar
d. peter pan collar
13. What should be done to the overlap or button lap if the neckline of the
polo shirt pattern is shaped?
a. folded only half of the facing
b. folded whole facing towards the bodice
c. shaped without folding the facing
d. any of the above
14. Where should the end of the tape measure be placed when you
measure the front neckline?
a. center front neckline
b. half of neckline
c. one inch from center line
d. one-third of neckline
15. What part of the waist circumference will be laid out in front of the
pants pattern?
a. ¼ of the waist circumference
b. ½ of the waist circumference
c. ¾ of the waist circumference
d. any of the above
16. In cutting patterns, which line should be cut?
a. cutting line
b. dart line
c. neckline
d. seam allowance
17. What is the characteristic of the armhole of a front polo shirt?
a. deeper than the back
b. longer than the back
c. shallow than the back
d. shorter than the back

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18. How do you place a pressing line symbol in the block / final
pattern?
a. along the lengthwise grain
b. on the crosswise
c. 45◦ on the pattern
d. any of the above
19. Which pattern symbol is used to indicate centerlines, and end of
seam lines.
a. bias grain
b. crosswise grain
c. notch
d. lengthwise grain
20. Which part of the sleeve is set to the armhole of a polo shirt?
a. armscye
b. hem
c. sides
d. any of the above
21. What do you call the process of separating pieces using appropriate
cutting tools?
a. cutting
b. drafting
c. manipulating
d. sewing
22. What part is being measured when the tape measure is placed on
waist location down to the seat?
a. chest
b. hip
c. knee measurement
d. rise
23. Which of the following is NOT a characteristic of rayon?
a. absorbent
b. lustrous
c. good drapability
d. weaker when wet
24. What measuring device is used to shape the depth of the neck hole
and armhole of the pattern?
a. French curve
b. hip curve
c. l – square
d. yardstick
25. Which method is correct in taking an accurate rise measurement?
a. from waist measurement down to the hip
b. from the waist to the seat
c. from the waist to desired length
d. any of the above

5
LESSON 1

PLANNING GARMENT DESIGN

INTRODUCTION

The lesson deals with the preparation of garment design, selection of


fabric design and consideration of the special needs of the clients.

ASSESSMENT CRITERIA

1. Client’s job requirements are determined in accordance with the


company practice.
2. Garment design is prepared in accordance with the client’s
requirements.
3. Design and fabric are discussed and selected according to the client’s
specifications.
4. Personal preferences of the client are incorporated into the design
based on the procedure.

DEFINITION OF TERMS

 Crease resistance – resistance to mark of a wrinkle to fabric.


 Complexion – the color and appearance of the skin.
 Colorfast – characteristic of a fabric from resistance to fading
or running.
 Evolvement – a development or changes as in the present
fashion.
 Lifestyle – a way of living.
 Plan – a scheme or method of doing a plan or design.
 Wardrobe – a complete outfit for a particular season or event.

INFORMATION SHEET 1.1

Factors to Consider in Planning a Garment Design

Well-planned wardrobe offers the assurance of making the desired


“first impression” while a coordinated wardrobe is the result of a careful
planning and purchasing. A wardrobe plan does not happen instantly, it is
a state of continuous evolvement.

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As a preliminary step to wardrobe planning, you may wish to identify
and evaluate current clothing. You can refer to the listed factors below when
planning a garment design for your client.

1. Personal Needs. These include all the needs of your client such as:
a. Lifestyle
b. Daily activities
c. Employment
d. Sports
e. Travel
f. Friends
g. Climatic Condition

2. Resources. These affect the planning stage of the garment where


simplicity and uniqueness through applications of different
accessories are being considered. The following are the questions
often asked by the client to the designer:

 What appropriate design will fit me?


 How much money do I need pay to pursue the planned
garment design?
 What quality of fabrics and colors best suit my complexion and
activities?

3. Time and Event. In garment planning, it is very important to know


how much time you need to complete the wardrobe and how much
attention to give to its every detail to make it suited for the occasion.
The following are the questions that a designer could ask his client:

 What garment must be worn in a certain occasion?


 Where will it be worn?
 When will it be worn?

After evaluating the individuality of your client, his needs and


lifestyle, the next thing to do is to gather the things you need for making the
clothes. This involves selection of fabric designs and trimmings. These must
be done carefully in order to meet the specifications of your client.

Fabric Selection for Men’s Apparel

Texture and color are two factors that play important part in fabric
selection. Texture refers to the smoothness or dullness of a fabric. Does it
feel smooth, silky, or soft? Color is the reflection of an object that appears to
our eyes. Most men prefer light colored toppers and neutral colored
trousers.

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Fabric designs also vary in choosing which lines of different weights
are very dominating among men’s apparel. Here are some fabric designs
used on men’s toppers:

Checkered Plaids Stripes

Quality in Fabrics
Another aspect in the selection of fabric is the quality. This refers to
the garments’ properties such as: colorfast; shrinkage; wrinkle resistance
and wash-and-wear properties which are considered to be among the most
desired characteristics in clothing. The following table will guide you in
selecting fabrics for men’s’ apparel.

Points to Consider when Selecting Fabrics for Men’s Apparel

Charac- Fabrics Easier to Tailor Fabrics More Difficult to


teristic Tailor
Fiber Natural fibers press and Synthetic fibers do not shape or
content shape well, and can be ease well, and they scorch or
shrunk to reduce excess melt easily; removing heat set
ease; stitches blend into crease is difficult.
fibers
Color Medium to medium dark Light colors may allow seams,
colors conceal inner hems and interfacings to show
construction of garment through to right side of fabric.
such as seams, hems, and Dark colors cause eyestrain;
interfacings; these colors do over pressed, shiny surfaces
not show wear handling or will be more noticeable.
soiling.
Weight Medium weight fabrics press Lightweight fabrics are easily
more easily. over pressed. Heavy fabrics are
time consuming to press; due to
bulk, they are hard to
manipulate during sewing.
Texture Fabrics with surface texture Smooth, hard finished fabrics
and interest hide stitching show every flaw in
imperfections. Texture can workmanship and pressing;
hide seam edges and edges they do not ease or shape well.
of interfacings so they do Napped fabrics require special
not show to the right side of pressing and pattern lay out;
the fabric. fusible interfacings cannot be
applied to velvets.

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Weave Medium weaves are flexible, Loosely woven may stretch out
hold their shape, do not of shape; they are suitable for
ravel easily, shape well in fusible method of tailoring, but
easing and pressing and are ravel easily unless fused.
easy to manipulate with Tightly woven fabrics ; they may
hand stitching and steam needle mark and seams may
pressing; stitches blend into pucker.
the fibers.

Types of Fabric for Men’s Apparel

Knowledge on the different types of fabric enables one to select the


appropriate type of fabric for a specific job order. The following table shows
the different types of fabrics and types fabrics may help you decide what
kind of fabrics will be used for specific garment.

TYPES OF FABRIC FOR MEN’S APPAREL

FABRIC DESCRIPTION USES


Acetate Silky finished drapes well. Blended with  Coat
other fabrics, it adds to their strength and
beauty. It is made into fabrics like taffeta,
satin, brocade, jersey and linings.
Acrilan It is wool-like, bulky and soft. Comfort  Dresses
without weight, good pleat retention,  Suits
recovers quickly from creasing.  Jumpers
Calico This is hard wearing plain weave, usually  Shirts
printed, in various weights.  Interfacings
Chambray Colored warp threads and a white filler  Children’s
thread create attractive variations of clothes
stripped effects in plain cotton fabric.  Shirt
 pajamas
Corduroy Ribbed pile fabric, hard-wearing and with  Trousers
various weights  Jackets
Cotton Woven and knitted in many weights.  Suited to all
(Most cotton fabrics listed under generic kinds of
names). garments
Denim Strong, twill-weave fabric; hard-wearing.  Jeans
Available in various weights and colors.  Jackets
Gabardine Twill weave, hard wearing fabric which  Suits
can be shower-proofed.  Coats
Jacquard Woven and knitted fabrics of complex  Suits
structure and color combinations.
Knitted fabric (single and double knit) in  Suits
Jersey various weights. Soft; good draping
qualities; tends to stretch.
Leather Fabrics treated for special finishes to  Jackets
Fabric simulate leather.  Coats
Linen Plain weave natural fabric with uneven  Trousers
surface texture. Strong, cool and  Coats
absorbent.
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Mohair Knitted and woven fabrics including  Coats
natural animal hair; soft and warm.  Jackets
 Shawls
Nylon Fine woven or knitted fabric. Strong,  Overalls
non-absorbent, best blended with other
fibers; useful blended for all garments
Rayon Fabric made from regenerated cellulose –  Shirt
originally it resembled silk. It is best
blended with other fibers
Sailcloth Strong, plain or basket weave fabric,  Jackets
originally stiff, for sails, now softer.  Trousers
Satin Special weave where threads ‘float’ over  Evening
the base threads, giving sheen. wear
Suede Woven or knitted fabric finished to  Jackets
resemble suede.  Trousers
Trevira (Trade name) woven or fitted fabric  Jackets
Velvet Warp pile fabric, woven. Various weights  Coats
for day and evening wear.  Suits
Wool Woven and knitted as pure wool and it  Coats
blends with natural and man-made fibers  Suits
to form many fabrics.
Worsted Best quality wool, tightly woven, smooth,  Suits
strong, wears well.  Coat

Personal Preferences
Another important factor in designing a garment is the personal
preferences of the client. The Survey Form below will help you in
determining the personal preferences of your client.

SURVEY FORM FOR MEN’S CASUAL APPAREL

Client’s Name:__________________________________ Date:______________

 Check the appropriate box


 Student  Professional

SHIRT PREFERENCES:
Color  light /pastel  dark / neutral
Pockets  patch  welt
Sleeve  short  long
Fit  loose  snug
Fabric  soft  polyester

TROUSERS/PANTS:
Color  light /pastel  dark / neutral
Pockets  patch  welt
Length  short  long
Fit  loose  snug
Fabric  soft  denim
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LET US REMEMBER

Today’s successful apparel designer has a philosophy of art, fashion


and history plus an understanding of the factors of one’s physical being. No
matter how well designed or beautiful a garment is, it will not be satisfying
if it does not contribute to the physical comfort of the wearer.

SELF CHECK

1. What are the factors to consider in planning a garment design?


____________________________________________________________________
____________________________________________________________________
____________________________________________________________________

2. Why do we need to consider the individuality of a person when


designing a garment?
____________________________________________________________________
____________________________________________________________________
____________________________________________________________________

3. Why is it necessary to know the different types of fabric for men’s


apparel?
____________________________________________________________________
____________________________________________________________________
____________________________________________________________________

11
LET US APPLY WHAT YOU HAVE LEARNED

Task: Plan Garment Design

1. Look for a male client and ask him to accomplish the Survey Form.
Design clothing that will conform to the personal preferences of your
client. Use another sheet of paper in designing a garment.

SURVEY FORM FOR MEN’S APPAREL

Client’s Name:__________________________________ Date:______________

 Check the appropriate box


 Student  Professional

SHIRT PREFERENCES:
Color  light /pastel  dark / neutral
Pockets  patch  welt
Sleeve  short  long
Fit  loose  snug
Fabric  soft  polyester

TROUSERS/PANTS:
Color  light /pastel  dark / neutral
Pockets  patch  welt
Length  short  long
Fit  loose  snug
Fabric  soft  denim

2. Assess garment design using the Evaluation Sheet below.

EVALUATION SHEET FOR PLANNING GARMENT DESIGN

Assessment Criteria Competent Not


Competent
1. Client’s job requirements were
determined.
2. Garment design was prepared in
accordance with the client’s
requirements.
3. Design and fabric were selected
according to the client’s specifications.
4. Personal preferences of the client were
incorporated into the design based on
the procedure.

Final Assessment: _________________

Assessed by: __________________________________

12
RESOURCES:

Supplies
 Bond paper
 Pencil
 Eraser

Materials
 Learning Modules
 Textbooks
 Men’s apparel Catalog
 Model Men’s apparel
 Fabric Swatches

13
LESSON 2

TAKING CLIENT’S BODY MEASUREMENTS

INTRODUCTION

The lesson deals on how to take client’s body measurement using the
different measuring tools. This also involves accurate recording of
measurements that will serve as a guide in drafting pattern.

ASSESSMENT CRITERIA

1. Measuring tools are prepared in accordance with the job


requirements.
2. Body measurements are taken accurately and recorded accordingly
based on procedure.

DEFINITION OF TERMS

 Ankle - the point or region between the front and the leg.
 Circumference - the measurements taken around the parts
of the body.
 Crotch - an angle formed by parting of two legs.
 Length - longest dimension of an object.
 Perpendicular - forming a right angle with each other or with
a given line.
 Point of reference - the point of beginning and end of a given
measurement.
 Torso - the trunk of a human body.
 Wrist - the joint or region between the hand and the arm.

INFORMATION SHEET 1.2

Measuring Devices and Their Uses

A perfect fit requires perfect measurements of the body, pattern and


fabric. Accurate measuring tools are essential for accurate pattern drafting.
Do you still remember your tools in dressmaking? This lesson will refresh
your knowledge on the use of measuring devices. The skillful use of these
devices will help you take body measurements and draft patterns with
accuracy and speed.

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The following are the measuring tools and their uses:

1. Tape Measure

It has the flexibility required to take body measurements. Select a 60”


(150 cm) long tape with metal tips, made of a material that will not stretch.
It should be reversible, with numbers and markings printed on both sides.

2. L-Square/Tailor’s Square

A Tailor’s square is helpful in measuring the crotch. The shorter arm


is inserted in between the legs. From the long arm positioned at the level of
the waistline, you can find the measurement of the crotch.

3. Pencil

A pencil is used to record the client’s measurement.

4. Personal Measurement Record

You need to prepare a Personal Measurement Record (PMR) to record


the measurements you have taken from your client. The record should be
kept so that when he comes back for another job order, you will just refer to

15
it. But you need to double check your record to make sure that nothing has
changed.
Sample Personal Measurement Record

Below is a suggested format for a measurement record of your


client.

PERSONAL MEASUREMENT RECORD

Name: ______________________________________ Date:__________


Address: _______________________________________________________
Tel. No. ______________________ Mobile No.__________________

POLO
A. Shoulder _____________
B. Length of Polo Shirt _____________
C. Chest _____________
D. Waist _____________
E. Hip _____________
F. Length of sleeve _____________
G. Wrist _____________
H. Length of Sleeve (short) _____________
I. Short Sleeve circumference/girth _____________
J. Neck _____________

PANTS

A. Waist _____________
B. Hip _____________
C. Length of short pants _____________
D. Length of pants _____________
E. Knee circumference _____________
F. Ankle circumference _____________
G. Crotch or Rise _____________

16
Points to Remember in Taking Body Measurements

There are some pointers that you should observe while taking body
measurements:

1. Ask the client politely to stand straight while taking measurements.


2. Use a soft flexible type of tape measure so that it will be flat on the
part to be measured.
3. Tie a string on the exact waistline as a point of reference while taking
measurements.
4. Start with either horizontal or vertical measurements.
5. When measuring lengths, let the tape measure hang freely for a more
accurate measurement.
6. In measuring distances or widths, place the end of tape measure to
the exact point of reference.
7. In taking circumference, insert two fingers on the part being
measured to provide an allowance.
8. Avoid taking measurements in halves, fourths or eights if possible.
9. In measuring long sleeves, ask the client to bend halfway his elbow.
10. Always have a ready personal measurement chart for every client so
you can be sure that all measurements can be taken.

To facilitate correct proportion of measurements, you can refer to the


table below any time you need it. This can help you create a well-
proportioned garment asked by your client.

Men’s Standard Measurement


(Numbers are in Inches)

Body Measurement S M M/L L XL XXL


A Shoulder 17 17 1/2 18 18 1/2 19 19 1/2
B Length of Shirt 27 27 1/4 27 1/2 27 3/4 28 28 1/4
C Breast 34 36 38 40 42 44
D Waist 28 30 32 34 36 38
E Hip 36 38 40 42 44 46
F Long Sleeve 23 23 3/8 23 5/8 24 24 3/8 24 5/8
G Wrist 8 8 1/4 8 1/2 8 3/4 9 9¼
H Short Sleeve 9 9 1/2 10 10 1/2 11 11 ½
I Short Sleeve 14 14 1/2 15 15 1/2 16 16 ½
Circumference
J Neck 15 15 1/2 16 16 1/2 17 17 ½
K Short Pants Length 20 20 ½ 21 21 ½ 22 22 ½
L Long Pants Length 38 40 41 42 43 44
M Knee 19 20 20 ½ 21 21 1/2 22
Circumference
N Ankle 17 18 18 1/2 19 19 ½ 20
Circumference
O Crotch/Rise 10 10 1/2 11 11 ½ 12 12 ½

17
Men’s Body Points and Lines

Knowledge on the different body points and lines on men’s figure is


important to ensure that measurements are taken from and-to exact points.
The following are illustrations showing men’s body points and lines.

Center neck point


Center back
Neck point
Shoulder blades Shoulder
point
Chest point

Armpit point
Elbow point
Side waist

Hip

Knee point
Ankle

neckline

Chest line

Waistline

hipline

Knee level

18
Body Measurements for Men’s Apparel

19
How to Take Body Measurement for Men’s Apparel

A. Shoulder- Place the end of tape on shoulder tip passing the


nape across the other shoulder tip point.
B. Length of Shirt- Measure from the nape down to the desired
length.
C. Breast- Pass around tape measure on the fullest part of
the upper body in line with chest inserting two
fingers in it.
D. Waist- Place tape measure in line and around the
smallest part of the waist.
E. Hip- Place tape measure in line and around the fullest
part of the hip.
F. Length of Sleeve (long)Place tape measure on shoulder tip down to the
elbow (halfway bent) and to the wrist.
G. Wrist- Encircle tape measure in line and around the
wrist.
H. Length of Sleeve (short)Place tape measure on shoulder tip down to the
desired length of short sleeve.
I. Arm Girth- From the measured short sleeve length, place
tape measure around the arms with the desired
circumference.
J. Neck- Place tape measure around the base of the neck.
K. Length of Short PantsPlace end of tape measure on waist down to the
desired length of the long pants.
L. Length of Long PantsPlace end of tape measure on waist down to the
desired length of the long pants.
M. Knee Circumference Place tape measure in line and around the ankle
joint.
N. Crotch or Rise Have your client sit on a chair, then place tape
measure on waist to the seat. Add 1” to the
measured length.

LET US REMEMBER

A well-fitted garment lies mainly on how measurements are taken


into somebody’s figure. Remember to incorporate easy methods or
techniques so you can develop speed and accuracy. This is a skill that
tailors/dressmakers should possess.

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SELF CHECK

1. Why are accurate measurements important in constructing a garment?


_______________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________
2. Why do you have to use accurate measuring tape when taking body
measurements?
_______________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________
3. Why is it important to know the men’s body points and lines?
_______________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________

21
LET US APPLY WHAT YOU HAVE LEARNED

Task: Taking Client’s Body Measurement

1. Get a partner and take his or her body measurements. Record the
measurements in the PMR below.

PERSONAL MEASUREMENT RECORD

Name: ______________________________________ Date:__________


Address: _______________________________________________________
Tel. No. ______________________ Mobile No.__________________

POLO
A. Shoulder _____________
B. Length of Polo Shirt _____________
C. Chest _____________
D. Waist _____________
E. Hip _____________
F. Length of sleeve _____________
G. Wrist _____________
H. Length of Sleeve (short) _____________
I. Short Sleeve circumference/girth _____________
J. Neck _____________

PANTS

A. Waist _____________
B. Hip _____________
C. Length of short pants _____________
D. Length of pants _____________
E. Knee circumference _____________
F. Ankle circumference _____________
G. Crotch or Rise _____________

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2. Evaluate work using the score card below.

Score Card for Taking Body Measurement

Assessment Criteria Highest Student Teacher


possible
score
A. Tools (10%)
 Measuring tools appropriate
and properly used 10
 Measuring tools in good
condition
B. Procedure (30%)
 The procedure in taking
body measurements was 30
correctly followed
C. Accuracy of Measurements 40
(40%)
D. Record Management (10%)
 Measurements were 10
recorded accurately
E. Speed 10
TOTAL 100

RESOURCES:

Tools
 L-square
 Hip Curve
 Tape Measure
 Triangle
 Meter stick
 Scissors

Supplies
 Bond paper
 Pencil
 Eraser

Materials
 Learning Modules
 Textbooks
 Men’s apparel Catalog
 Sample Men’s apparel
 Personal Measurement Record
Equipment
 Model form

23
LESSON 3
DRAFTING BASIC/BLOCK PATTERN
FOR MEN’S APPAREL
INTRODUCTION

The lesson deals on how to draft basic and block pattern of men’s
apparel based on costumer’s specifications using the appropriate tools and
materials.

ASSESSMENT CRITERIA

1. Basic or block patterns are drafted using the appropriate equipment


and client’s specifications.
2. Drafted basic or block patterns are checked for accuracy based on the
client’s specifications.

DEFINITION OF TERMS

 Armhole – part of the upper body pattern where sleeve is


set or attached.
 Button lap - the finished overlap in front of a garments
applied with buttons and buttonholes.
 Draft - a preliminary sketch of a working plan.
 Hemline – a line at the bottom of a garment turned and
finished done by hand or machine.
 Notch – a V-cut on the lapel of a collar.
 Patch – a single layer material applied on the right side of
the garment usually designed with different shapes.
 Placket – a finished edge of a garment applied with
garment.
 Pocket – a little bag or pouch especially sewn into clothing
for carrying small items or money.

INFORMATION SHEET 1.3

PREPARING TO MAKE MEN’S POLO SHIRT

Polo shirt is a loose garment for the upper part of the body, usually
having collars, either short or long sleeves, cuffs and a front opening. The
common collars used in polo shirts are the Sports collar and Chinese or
mandarin collar.

24
Look at the illustration of a polo shirt below. What are the parts do
you commonly see on men’s apparel?

yoke
collar stand
armhole collar

sleeve

pocket

Side seam

Button
placket

hem

25
Making a Project Plan

It is just right to prepare a project plan for a men’s polo before you
make your pattern. It will serve as your guide in making your work
systematic.

Project Plan for Men’s Regular Polo Shirt

Name: _____________________________ Year and Section: _________________


Instructor: ________________________ Date Started: ______________________

I. Objective:
Construct a polo shirt with executive collar, patch pocket and short
sleeves accurately and correctly.

II. Tools and Equipment Needed:

Drafting Cutting Sewing Tools Sewing Equipment


Tools/Materials Tools/Equipment
L-square Cutting table Hand needles Lockstitch Sewing
machine
French curve Cutting shears Pins/pin cushion Overlock sewing
machine
Triangle Seam ripper
Pencil pair of scissors
Pattern paper
PMR

III. Sketch/Drawing

26
IV. Estimated Cost of Materials:

Qty. Unit Item Description Unit Cost Total cost


1½ yds Polyester cotton, 60” wide P 80.00 P 120.00
7 pcs. Buttons 2.00 14.00
1 spool Thread 6.00 6.00
¼ yd Interfacing (Pellon) 40.00 10.00
Total P 150.00
*Cost may vary depending on the type and width of cloth.

V. Procedure:

1. Plan garment design.


2. Take the body measurements.
3. Draft the necessary patterns.
4. Prepare the materials.
5. Lay out patterns on the cloth.
6. Mark cutting and sewing lines.
7. Cut the cloth.
8. Prepare the cut fabric.
9. Assemble the garment.
a. Make the patch pocket.
b. Attach the pocket at the left front part.
c. Join the upper and back yoke.
d. Join the back and front shoulder yoke.
e. Prepare the sports collar.
f. Attach the collar around the shirt neckline.
g. Prepare the shirt sleeve.
h. Attach the sleeve around the armhole.
i. Join the underarm and sides of the shirt.
10. Apply finishing touches
a. Fold and stitch the hemline.
b. Mark and sew buttonholes.
c. Mark and attach buttons.
d. Clean and press the finished project.
11. Fit the polo shirt.
12. Evaluate finished garment.

27
Drafting Tools and Their Uses

Pattern drafting would be easy if you use proper drafting tools.


Make sure they are also in good working condition to ensure accuracy
of your pattern. The following are the drafting tools that you need to
prepare:

1. L-Square

One of the most indispensable


tools used in pattern making is the
tailor's square, referred to as the L-
square. The ruler has a vertical long arm
measuring 24 inches long and
horizontal short arm measuring 14
inches long intersecting at one angle. It
is useful in making straight and
perpendicular lines.

The Tailor’s square is invaluable in making half-scale patterns.


The longer arm consists of the following divisions: 1/24; 1/12; 1/6;
1/3 and; 2/3.

Starting from the corner of the short arm, you can find the
following: 1/32; 1/16; 1/8; ¼ and; ½.

How to use the L-Square


1. Divide the measurements for bust or breast, seat or hips and waist
into two (2) to get the scale. A scale is one half (½) of the
measurement.
Example: Bust = 36 (Bust Scale=18)
2. Locate the corresponding division needed starting from the corner of
the L square.
Example: 1/4 of the Bust Scale

¼ of breast scale (18)


Note: When a tape measure is used ¼ breast scale is actually 1/8
of the bust measurement (36).

28
2. Hip Curve

This is used in connecting or shaping curved points. The front


part of the curve has a measure of inches. At the back part is a
measure of centimeters. It is marked every five centimeters.

3. French Curve

This is used to shape the depth of the neck hole and arm hole
of the pattern.

4. Ruler

Ruler is commonly made of either wood or plastic aids in


connecting lines. It is graduated in inches and centimeter.

5. Meterstick

This is used for general marking and for measuring fabric grain
line when laying out the pattern.

29
Drafting the Front and Back Pattern of Regular Men’s Polo Shirt

Facing
1. From the corner of pattern paper, measure 3 ½ inches (8.9 cm) and
mark as point 1a.
2. 1a to 1b = draw a perpendicular line downward (about 30 inches
(76.5).

Overlap or Button Lap


3. Ia to IIa = measure ¾ inch (1.9 cm.) and mark it point IIa.
4. IIa to IIb = draw a perpendicular line downward (about 30 inches or
76.5cm long).

Back Shoulder
5. IIa to A = measure 2 inches (5.1 cm) downward then mark it A. From
point A, draw a perpendicular line (about 12 inches or 30.5 cm long).
6. A to B = measure ½ of shoulder measurement and mark it B.
7. B to C = measure ½ inch (1.3 cm) and mark it C.

30
Neckline
6. A to D = measure 3 inches (7.6 cm) outward and mark it D.
7. D to E = Draw a perpendicular line upward and mark it E.
8. D to F = measure 1 inch diagonally upward to get point F.
9. A to G = measure 1 ¼ inches (3.2 cm.)
10. Connect points A, G, F and E with a French curve (can be drawn
freehand).
11. Connect E to C with a straight line.

Front Shoulder
13. A to H =measure ¼ inch downward and mark it H.
14. H to I = measure 3 inches (7.6 cm.) downward and mark it I.
15. I to J = measure ½ shoulder measurement and mark it J.
16. J to K = measure ½ inch outward and mark it K.
17. Connect points H and K with a straight line.
18. K to L = measure E to C and apply the same measurement on back
shoulder slope

Front Neck
19. Project a perpendicular line downward to get point M.
20. M to N = measure 1 1/4inches (3.2 cm.) and mark it N.
21. Shape front neckline by connecting points L, N and I with a French
curve line or draw using freehand.

Neckline Adjustment
22. Apply ½ front neck measurement in adjusting neckline and reshape it
according to desired measurement.

Chest Level
23. H to O = measure ¼ chest measurement plus ¾ inch (1.9 cm.) and
mark it O. Draw a horizontal perpendicular line to the right.
24. O to P = measure ¼ chest measurement and mark it P.
25. P to Q = measure 1 ½ inches (3.8 cm.) to the right and mark it Q.
26. P to R = measure 1 ¼ inches (3.2 cm.) to the left and mark it R.

Back Armhole Line


27. Connect point C and R with a straight line.
28. Locate the midpoint of line J and R and mark it S.
29. Shape back armhole by connecting point C, S and Q. Use a different
color of pencil to identify front from back pattern.

Front Armhole Line


30. R to T = measure 1 inch (2.5 cm.) and mark it T.
31. Connect points K and T with a straight line
32. Locate the midpoint of line K,T and mark it U.
33. Shape front armhole connecting K, U, and Q. It has a deeper curve
than back armhole.

31
Hemline
34. H to V = measure the length of the polo and mark it V. Draw
perpendicular line from point V to the right.
35. V to W = measure ¼ chest measurement and mark it W.
36. W to X = measure 1 ½ inches (3.8 cm.) and mark it X.
37. Connect Q to X with a straight line.

Adjustment for the front Hemline


38. V to Y = measure 1 ½ inches (3.8 cm.) downward and mark it Y
39. Shape hemline with a slight curve by connecting point Y and X and
extend it to the button lap allowance and facing.

To Separate the Back Pattern


To separate back from front pattern, trace A, G, F, E, C, J, S, Q, X and V
into another sheet of pattern paper.

To Separate the Front Pattern


1. Fold facing allowance (1a and 1b) Hold the fold in place with pins.
2. Trace from point I, N, L, K, U, Q, X and Y.

Drafting the Sleeve Pattern

The sleeve for men’s casual apparel is just a basic one. It only differs
on the techniques applied in drafting it. Unlike in ladies apparel that adopts
the evolution of different styles and methods, men’s sleeves are usually
plain.

Measurements Needed:
Sleeve length
Front armhole measurement
Back armhole measurement
Lower arm girth

This is how to measure the armhole:

32
Procedure in Drafting the Sleeve Pattern

1. Prepare a pattern paper (Length: 26 inches (66 cm.); Width: 12 inches


(30.5 cm.)
2. Mark and draw a line on the center of the pattern paper.

Length of the sleeve


3. From top measure 1 inch and mark it A.
4. A to B = measure the desired sleeve length and mark it B. Project
point B perpendicularly to the right.

Sleeve Cap height


5. A to C = measure 1/8 of chest measurement and mark it C. Project it
perpendicularly to the right.

Front Cap Width Sleeve


6. A to D = measure ½ of the front cap width of sleeve diagonally to line
C and mark it D.
7. D to E = measure ¼ inch and mark it E.
8. Connect points A and E with a straight line.
9. Label line E-C “FRONT’ to indicate the side of the sleeve.

Front Cap Line


10. Divide line A-E into two equal parts and label it F.
11. Divide line A-F into two and mark it G.
12. G to H = measure ½ inch (1.3 cm.) and mark it H.
13. Divide line E-F and mark it I.
14. I to J = measure ½ inch (1.3 cm.) and mark it J.
15. Shape armscye by connecting A, H, F, J and E with a smooth curve
line.

Back Cap width of Sleeve

33
16. 16 A to K = measure ½ of the back width and sleeve (back armhole)
diagonally to line C and mark it D.
17. K to L = measure ¼ inch and mark it L.
18. Connect point A and L with a straight line.
19. Label line C-L “BACK” to indicate the side of the sleeve.

Back Cap Line


20. Divide line A-L into two and mark it M.
21. M to N = measure ½ inch (1.3 cm.) upward and mark it N.
22. Divide line A-M into two parts and mark it O.
23. O to P = measure 5/8 inch (1.5 cm.) and mark it P.
24. Divide line M-L into two and mark it Q.
25. R to S = measure ¼ inch (0.6 cm.) and mark it S.
26. Shape back armscye by connecting A, P, N, Q, S at L with a smooth
curve line.

For Short Sleeve Length


27. A to B1 = measure desired length of short sleeve and mark it B1.
28. B1 to T1; B1 to T2 = measure ½ of bottom sleeve width (lower arm
girth) and mark both sides as T1 and T2.
29. Connect point E-T1 and L-T2 with a straight line.
30. Measure 1 ½ inches (3.8 cm.) from T1 and T2. Fold this when making
final pattern to follow the shape of side seam.

Drafting the Collar Pattern

Collar is a part of a garment sewn around the neck. Just like any
details of a garment, it is not only functional but also decorative in purpose.
There are varieties of collar to choose from for men’s apparel: sports collar,
mannish or executive collar and its variations.

In this lesson, two kinds of collar will be presented so you can choose
the best one to suit your taste. The measurements needed are:
1. Front neck measurement
2. Back neck measurement
3. Collar width/height

Here is how neck measurement is taken:

34
Procedure in Drafting the Sports Collar

Preliminaries:
 Prepare a paper. Length: 5 inches (12.7 cm.) Width: 18 inches (45.7
cm.). Fold in half.

Procedure:

1. Measure 1 inch from mid bottom and mark it A. Draw a 10-inch (25.4
cm.) horizontal perpendicular line from point A.
2. A to B = measure ½ neck measurement and mark it B
3. A to C = measure 2 inches (5.1 cm.) and mark it C.
4. B to D = project point B upward and measure 2 inches (5.1 cm) and
mark it D.
5. D to E = measure ½ inch (1.3 cm.) and mark it F
6. B to F = measure ½ inch (1.3 cm.) and mark it F
7. Connect points F – E and A – F with a straight line.
8. Shape points A and F with a slight curve line.

This is how your sports collar will look when unfolded.

35
Procedure in Drafting the Pattern for an Executive Collar

Measurements Needed:

1. Front Neck
2. Back Neck

Collar Stand

Measure 1 inch from mid-bottom of pattern paper and mark it A.


Project it perpendicularly to the right.

1. A to B = Measure ½ of back neck measurement for the button lap


and mark it B.
2. B to C = Measure ½ front neck measurement plus ¾ inch and mark
it C.
3. A to D = Project point B upward. Measure 1 1/4 inches for the collar
stand height. Project point D perpendicularly to the right.
4. D to E = Equal to AB or ½ of back neck measurement and mark it E.
5. E to F = Measure ½ of front neck measurement and mark it F.
6. C to G =Measure ¾ inch upward and mark it F.
7. F to H =Measure ¾ inch upward and mark it H. Connect B – G and E
H with a curve line.
8. H to I = Measure ¾ inch to the left and mark it I. Connect G and I
with a straight line.

Collar Fall

9. D to J = Measure 1 ½ inches upward and mark it J. Project it


perpendicularly to the right.
10. J to K = Measure ½ of the back neck measurement and mark it K.
11. K to L = Measure ½ front neck measurement and mark it L.
12. J to M = Measure 1 ½ inches and project point M horizontally.
Project point L and mark it N.
13. L to O = Measure ¼ inch downward and mark it O.
14. N to P = Measure ½ inch sideward and mark it P. Join K and O with
slight curve and P – O with a straight line.

36
Drafting the Patch Pocket

Pocket is made using one or two layers of fabric cut in the desired
shape and placed on the right side of the garment or set into a garment
opening or seams.
5

1 2
1 – 2 = 4 ¾ inches
3 – 4 = 4 ½ inches
1 – 3 = 4 ¾ inches
2 – 4 = 4 ¾ inches
5 – 6 = 5 ¼ inches

3 4

PREPARING TO MAKE A PAIR OF SHORT PANTS

A pair of short pants is a men’s light garment having two separate leg
section covering only the mid-thigh. It can be made with fancy or decorative
pockets in front and at the back. One has to plan ahead how to make a
simple pattern for another satisfying project.

Look at the illustration of short pants below. What are the parts you
commonly see on men’s short pants?

Belt carrier waistband

placket
Side pocket
Outside
seam

crotch

Patch pocket
inseam

Bottom

37
Here is a sample project plan in making a pair of short pants with
pockets.

Project Plan for Short Pants

Name: _____________________________ Year and Section : _________________


Instructor: ________________________ Date Started: ______________________

I. Objectives:

Construct a pair of short pants with slide side pocket accurately and
correctly based on client’s specification.

II. Tools and Equipment Needed:

Drafting Cutting Sewing Tools Sewing Equipment


Tools/Materials Tools/Equipment
L-square Cutting table Hand needles Lockstitch Sewing
machine
French curve Cutting shears Pins/pin cushion Overlock sewing
machine
Triangle Seam ripper
Pencil pair of scissors
Pattern paper
PMR

III. Sketch of the design

38
IV. Estimated Bill of Materials:

Qty. Unit Item Description Unit Cost Total cost


1 yd wool, 60” wide P 100.00 P 100.00
1 pair hook & eye 5.00 5.00
1 spool thread 6.00 6.00
¼ yd band roll 40.00 10.00
Total P 121.00

V. Procedure:

1. Plan garment design.


2. Take the body measurements.
3. Draft the patterns.
4. Prepare the materials for cutting.
5. Lay out patterns on the cloth.
6. Mark cutting and sewing lines.
7. Cut the fabric.
8. Prepare cut fabric.
9. Assemble the garment.
a. Over edge the inseams, crotch and out seams.
b. Sew the dart.
c. Assemble the side pocket.
d. Attach the side pocket.
e. Prepare and attach the left and right zipper placket.
f. Join the inseams and out seams.
g. Prepare and attach the waistband.
h. Check and retrace the final crotch and seat seam.
i. Join the back and front crotch.
j. Make the belt guide and attach on the waistband.
10. Apply finishing touches.
a. Prepare and attach the hook and eye.
b. Check the full length, fold the hemline and stitch.
c. Press the finished project.
11. Fit the garment.
12. Evaluate finished garment.

39
Taking Body Measurements for Short Pants

A review on how to take measurements for short pants is given below.


Refer to each illustration so you can take the measurements before drafting
a pattern. Be sure to keep a record of your client’s measurement.

1. Waist circumference – Adjust your pants to


a comfortable position and measure
around the narrowest part of the waist.
Insert two fingers under the tape measure.
They serve as ease or allowance.

2. Hip circumference – Measure around the


fullest part of the hip (buttocks). Again,
insert two fingers under the tape measure
for ease.

3. Bottom circumference – Locate the front


and back creases of the pants worn by the
client. Measure around the middle of the
thigh or where the short pants length ends.

4. Crotch – Position a ruler (12 inch) under the


crotch and measure from the waistband to
the tip of the ruler.

5. Length of shorts – Adjust the pants to a


comfortable position and measure from the
side seam below the belt or waistband to
the desired length of the short.

40
Drafting the Short Pants

Measurements Needed:
Waist
Hip
Crotch
Length of shorts
Bottom circumference

 Front Part

Foundation Lines
1. Draw a foundation line using an L-square and mark it A.
2. A to B = measure 1 ½ inches upward and project a horizontal
perpendicular line from A. Mark it B.
3. A to C = measure crotch or rise length then project it perpendicularly
and mark it C.
4. A to D = measure length of short pants then project it perpendicularly
and mark it D.
5. D to E = measure 2 inches downward then project it perpendicularly
and mark it D.

Hip Line
6. C to F = measure 4 inches outward and mark it F.
7. F to H = measure ¼ hip circumference and mark it H.
8. H to I = measure 1/16 part of hip circumference and mark it I.
9. I to J = measure ½ inch and mark it J.
10. Project point H vertically to point A. line A and mark it K.
11. H to M = measure 2 ½ inches upward.
12. K to L = measure ¾ inch and mark it L
13. L to N = measure ¼ inch and mark it N.

41
Waist Line
14. L to O = measure ¼ waist circumference and mark it O.

Hem Line
15. P = midpoint of F and I. Project point P perpendicularly downward to
line D.
16. P1 to Q = measure ¼ bottom circumference and mark it Q.
17. P1 to Q1 = measure ¼ bottom circumference and mark it Q1.

Shaping In Seam and Side Seam


18. Connect F to O with a curve line.
19. Connect J to M with a round curve line using French curve or can be
drawn free hand.
20. Connect F to Q with a straight line.
21. Connect J to Q with a slight curve line.
22. Extend Q1 and Q2 down to line E and mark it R1 and R2.

 Back Part
Use front as the basis of the back pattern:
1. L to #1 = measure 1 ½ inches and mark it #1.
2. #1 to #2 = measure 1 ½ inches upward and mark it #2.
3. Connect # 1 and #2 with a straight line.
4. #2 to #3 = measure ¼ waist circumference and mark it #3.
5. #3 to #4 = measure 1 inch outward and mark it #4.
6. Connect points #2 and #4 with a straight line.

Dart
7. Locate the middle of #4 and #2 and mark it #5.
8. From #5 project a perpendicular line downward.
9. #5 to #6 = measure 4 ½ inches downward and mark it #6
10. #5 to #7 = measure ½ inch sideward and mark it #7
11. #5 to #8 = measure ½ inch sideward and mark it #8
12. Form the dart by connecting #7, #6 and #8

Rise
13. J to #9 = measure ¼ inch downward then draw a broken line outward
14. #9 to #10 = measure 1 inch inward and mark it #10
15. I to #11 = measure 1 inch outward and mark it #11
16. #11 to #12 = measure ¼ inch downward and mark it #12
17. Connect point #2 and H with a straight line.
18. Shape crotch connecting points M, #10, #9 and #12 with a round
curve line.

Hemline
19. R to #13 = measure ¾ - 1 inch outward and mark it #13.
20. R1 to 13a = measure ¾ - 1 inch outward and mark it # 13a.
21. F to #14 = measure ¾ -1 inch outward.
22. Connect points #4 and #14 with a curve line.
23. Connect #12 to 13a with a curve line.
24. Connect #14 and #13 with a straight line.

42
To Separate the Front and Back Pattern
1. Trace the front pattern. Follow the connecting points O, L, M, J, Q1,
R1, R, Q, F and O.
2. Transfer the grain or pressing line
3. Cut the front pattern and label it “FRONT”
4. Trace the back pattern from point #4, #14, #13,#13a, #12, #9, #10, M,
#2, and #4.
5. Trace the dart lines from points #7, #6 and #8
6. Transfer grain or pressing line.
7. Cut the back pattern and label it “BACK”.

Drafting the Slide Side Pocket

Pocket is an essential part of a pair of long pants. It is both functional


and decorative in purpose. Here are the steps in drafting a slide side pocket:

1. Trace front pant pattern from waist to at least 3 inches below crotch.
2. Project point P perpendicularly to the waist and mark it V.
3. V to V1 = measure 12” downward.
4. Project point V1 perpendicularly to side and mark it W.
5. O to X = measure 1 ½ “ and mark it X
6. O to Y = measure 6” and mark it Y
7. Connect points X and Y with straight line.
8. Y to Z = measure 1 1/2 “ and mark it Z.
9. Shape pouch edge by blending a curve line from Z to V1.

To Transfer Pocket to a Separate Pattern Paper


1. Prepare a pattern paper (Width: 16 inches or 40.6 cm; Length:14
inches or 35.6 cm.). Fold this into half.

43
2. Place the pattern paper under the front parts pattern with the folded
side in line with points V and V1.

3. Trace the pocket pattern following points O,X, Z at V1. Transfer points
X and Y.
4. Cut pocket pattern following points V, O, Y, Z to V1

Drafting the Placket

A placket is a finished opening in a garment. On men’s pants, the


most common placket is the zipper fly. Pants with fly front zipper placket call
for extensions of the front seam allowances to accommodate the placket. If
the opening is to be faced, the facings should be attached before applying
the zipper. The finish on the edge of the seam extensions or facings should
be flat.

To Draft Zipper Placket Facing

44
1. Prepare the front pattern.
2. Measure line L to M.
3. Add 1 ½ inches to the measured length
4. In a piece of paper, increase 3 inches and length equivalent to line LM
plus 1 ½ inches.
5. Mark the center of the pattern to indicate following line.

Drafting the Pattern for Waistband

There are two kinds of waistband: the simple straight waistband


which is commonly used on trousers, and a shape or complex waistband
which fits over the hip contour. The simple waistband may be drafted using
the basic pants pattern.

Procedure in Drafting Simple Waistband

1. Prepare a piece of pattern paper with this measurement:


Width: 20 inches (50.8 cm)
Length: 6 inches (15.2 cm.)
2. From the bottom, measure 1 inch (25 cm.) and mark it A.
3. A to B = measure ½ waist circumference and mark it B
4. B to C = measure 2 inches (5.1 cm) allowance for the fastener (men’s
hook and eye or button)
5. AD = measure 1 ½ inches (3.8 cm.) and mark it D
6. CE = measure 1 ½ inches (3.8 cm.) and mark it E
7. DF = measure 1 ½ inches (3.8 cm.) and mark it F
8. EG = measure 1 ½ inches (3.8 cm.) and mark it G
9. Connect points F and G with a straight line.
10. Indicate a folding line connecting point D and E.
11. Connect point A-C and G-C with a straight line.

Note: A waistband can be drafted in full size or in two pieces if the


waistband is planned to be joined at the back. The latter can be an
advantage for an easier adjustment on waistband if needed.

45
PREPARING TO MAKE A PAIR OF LONG PANTS

Long pants are very popular outfit today for both men and women but
they are costly whether they are ready-to-wear or tailor-made. Thus, it is
practical to learn how to make them which may pave the way to a tailoring
business later on.

In preparation for pants construction, familiarize yourself with the


following parts of the pants:

belt carrier waistband

placket Side pocket

crotch

In-seam

Side seam
Bottom/hem

1. Waistband. A band encircling the waist used to finish and


strengthen trousers at the waist.
2. Belt Carrier. It holds the belt in place.
3. Pocket. A little bag or pouch especially sewn into clothing for
carrying money and small articles.
4. Crotch. The part of a pair of trousers formed by the joining of the
two legs.
5. Inseam. A line of stitching at the inner side of the pants.
6. Side seam. A line of stitching at the side.
7. Placket. A finished opening in trousers that facilitates putting it
on and taking it off.

46
Project Plan for Long Pants with Slide Side Pockets

Name: _____________________________ Year and Section: _________________


Teacher: ________________________ Date Began: ______________________
Rating: _________ Date Finished: ___________________

I. Objectives :

Construct long pants with slide side pocket accurately and correctly
based on client’s specification.

II. Tools and Equipment Needed:

Drafting Cutting Sewing Tools Sewing Equipment


Tools/Materials Tools/Equipment
L-square Cutting table Hand needles Lockstitch Sewing
machine
French curve Cutting shears Pins/pin cushion Overlock sewing
machine
Triangle Seam ripper
Pencil pair of scissors
Pattern paper
PMR

III. Sketch of the design

47
IV. Estimated Bill of Materials:

Qty. Unit Item Description Unit Cost Total cost


1 1/4 yds wool, 60” wide P 100.00 P 125.00
1 spool thread 6.00 6.00
1 pc. zipper 7.00 7.00
1 pair hook & eye 5.00 5.00
¼ yd band roll 40.00 10.00
Total P 153.00

V. Procedure:

1. Plan garment design.


2. Take body measurements.
3. Draft the patterns.
4. Prepare the materials for cutting.
5. Lay out patterns on the cloth.
6. Mark cutting and sewing lines.
7. Cut the fabric for pants including waistband, pockets and plackets.
8. Prepare cut fabrics.
9. Assemble the garment.
a. Finish the in-seams, crotch and side seams.
b. Sew the dart.
c. Assemble and attach the side pocket.
d. Prepare and attach the left and right zipper placket.
e. Join the in-seams and side seams.
f. Prepare and attach the waistband.
g. Check and retrace the final crotch and seat seam.
h. Join the back and front crotch.
i. Make the belt guide and attach on the waistband.
10. Apply finishing touches.
a. Prepare and attach the hook and eye.
b. Check the full length, fold the hemline and stitch.
c. Press the finished project.
11. Press and fit the finished project.
12. Evaluate finished garment.

48
Drafting the Pattern for Men’s Long Pants

You need the following body measurements when drafting the pattern
for men’s basic pants. Record them in the Personal Measurement Record.

Measurements needed: Example

Full Length = 38 inches


Rise or Crotch = 9 inches
Waist = 28 inches
Hip = 36 inches
Knee = 19 inches
Bottom = 15 inches

 Front Part

49
Guide Line:
1. Draw a foundation line and mark it A.
2. A to B = 1 ½” upward and project a horizontal line from A.

Rise
3. A to C = crotch or rise length. Project a horizontal perpendicular line.

Length of Pants
4. A to D = measure length of pants project a perpendicular line and
mark it D.
5. D to E = measure 2 inches downward then project a horizontal
perpendicular line and mark it L.

Hip Line
6. C to F = measure 4 inches outward and mark it F.
7. F to H = measure ¼ hip circumference and mark it H.
8. H to I = measure 1/16 part of hip circumference and mark it I
9. I to J = measure ½ inch and mark it J.
10. Project point H upward perpendicular to line A.
11. H to M = measure 2 ½ inches upward and mark it M.

Waistline
12. H to L = measure ¾ inch mark it L
13. L to N = measure ¼ inch and mark it N.
14. L to O = measure 1/4 waist circumference and mark it O.

Knee Line
15. P = Midpoint of F and I and project perpendicularly downward to line
D.
16. Locate the midpoint of C and D and mark it Q.
17. Q to R = measure 1 inch and mark it R.
18. S = intersection of lines P and R
19. S to S1 = measure ¼ knee circumference and mark it S1.
20. S to S2 = measure ¼ knee circumference and mark it S2.

Bottom Hem
21. P1 to T1 = measure ¼ bottom and mark it T1.
22. P1 to T2 = measure ¼ bottom and mark it T2.
23. Connect F to O with curve line.

Shaping the Front Part


24. Connect J and M with a round curve line.
25. Connect J and S2 with a slight curve.
26. Connect F to S1 with a slight curve.
27. Connect S1 – T1 and S2 – T2 with a straight line.
28. Connect T1 – U1 and T2 – U2 with a straight line.

50
 Back Part

51
Waistline
1. L to #1 = measure 1 1/2 inches and mark it #1
2. #1 to #2 = measure 1 ½ inches upward and mark it #2
3. Connect #1 and #2 with straight line.
4. #2 to #3 = measure ¼ waist circumference and mark it #3.
5. #3 to #4 = measure 1 ¾ inch outward and mark it #4.
6. Connect point #2 and #4 with a straight line.

Waist Dart
7. Locate the middle #4 and #2 and mark it #5.
8. Project #5 perpendicular (90 degrees) downward.
9. #5 to #6 = measure 4 ½ inches downward and mark it #6.
10. #5 to #7 = ½ inch sideward and mark it #7.
11. #5 to #8 = ½ inch sideward and mark it #8.
12. Form the dart by connecting #7, #6 and #8.

Hipline
13. J to #9 = ¼ inch downward, then draw a broken line outward and
mark it #9.
14. #9 to #10 = 1 inch inward and mark it #10.
15. I to #11 = 1 inch outward and mark it #11.
16. #11 to #12 = 1 inch downward and mark it #12.

Knee line
17. S1 to #13 = ¾ inch downward and mark it #13.
18. S2 to #13a = ¾ inch – 1 inch outward and mark it 13a.

Bottom
19. U1 to #14 = ¾ inch – 1 inch outward and mark it #14.
20. U2 to #14a = ¾ inch – 1 inch outward and mark it #14a.
21. F to #15 = ¾ inch – 1 inch outward and mark it #15a.

Shaping the Back Part


22. Connect points #4 and #15.
23. Connect #12 - #13 with curve line.
24. Connect #13 - #14 and #13a - #14a with a straight line.
25. Connect 2 to M with a straight line.
26. Shape M to 12 with a French curve.

52
To Separate the Front and Back Patterns

1. Trace the front pattern. Follow the following points:


O, L, J, S2, U2, U1, S1, F and O
2. Transfer the grain line on pressing line.
3. Cut the front pattern and label it “FRONT”.
4. Trace the back pattern from point #4, #2, #12, #13a, #14a, #14, #13,
#15 and #4.
5. Trace the dart line from points #7, #8, #6 and transfer grain or
pressing line.
6. Cut the back pattern and label it “BACK”.

Separated Front and Back Patterns of Long Pants

53
LET US REMEMBER

 Pattern drafting would be easy if you follow the steps


systematically.

 Once you have a good basic pattern, you can learn to change its
styles for popular trends while retaining all the personal fit
factors.

SELF CHECK

Directions: Answer the following questions briefly:

1. Why do you have to know the different body points and lines of men’s
figure?

____________________________________________________________________
____________________________________________________________________
____________________________________________________________________

2. Why is accuracy of measurement in drafting pattern for men’s apparel


important?

____________________________________________________________________
____________________________________________________________________
____________________________________________________________________

3. How do we use L-Square effectively in drafting patterns?

____________________________________________________________________
____________________________________________________________________
____________________________________________________________________

54
LET US APPLY WHAT HAVE YOU LEARNED

Task: Draft Patterns


A. Draft the following patterns using the Personal Measurement Record
(PMR) of your client:
1. Polo Shirt
a. Front Pattern d. Sleeve
b. Back Pattern e. Collar
c. Yoke
2. Short Pants
a. Front Pattern d. Placket
b. Back pattern e. Waistband
c. Pocket
3. Long Pants
a. Front Pattern d. Placket
b. Back pattern e. Waistband
c. Pocket

B. Evaluate work using the scoring rubric below.

Assessment Competent Moderately Not Competent


Criteria (5) Competent (1)
(3)
Preparation and Prepared 1 or 2 drafting Incomplete
Use of Drafting appropriate drafting tools were not drafting tools
Tools tools; demonstrated appropriate and
proper use of improperly used
drafting tools
Workmanship Followed the steps Failed once in Failed to follow
correctly and following the steps the steps
systematically; put correctly;1 or 2 correctly and
proper pattern symbols are systematically;
symbols and missing did not put any
allowances symbol and
allowance
Accuracy All measurements 1 to 2 3 or more
were accurate; measurements measurements
patterns were were inaccurate; were
checked properly checked based on inaccurate;
based on client’s client’s failed to follow
specification specification client’s
specification
Neatness of Observed neatness There were 1 to 2 Finished
Work of work erasures pattern was full
of erasures.
Speed Finished ahead of Just in time Did not finish
time on time

55
RESOURCES:

Tools
 L-square
 Hip Curve
 Tape Measure
 Triangle
 French Curve
 Scissors
 Ruler

Supplies
 Pattern paper
 Bond paper
 Pencil/eraser
 Personal Measurement Record

Materials
 Learning Modules
 Textbooks
 Men’s apparel Catalog
 Sample Men’s apparel
 Personal Measurement Record

Equipment
 Cutting table
 Model form

56
LESSON 4

MANIPULATING AND CUTTING PATTERN

INTRODUCTION

The lesson deals with manipulating block pattern, labeling and cutting
final patterns in accordance with the client’s specifications and operating
procedures.

ASSESSMENT CRITERIA

1. Block patterns are manipulated in accordance with the client’s


specifications.
2. Final patterns are labeled and cut as per operating procedure.

DEFINITION OF TERMS

 Cut – the process of separating pieces using appropriate


cutting tools.
 Seam Allowance – the distance between the seam line
and cutting line.
 Cutting Line – a heavy solid line in a final/block pattern
that indicates where the pattern is exactly to be cut.
 Grain Line – the line with arrowheads on both ends
indicated in the final pattern directing on what grain the
pattern is to be laid out on the cloth.
 Manipulate – to manage or use skillfully a given tool or
material.

INFORMATION SHEET 1.4

Pattern Symbols

One interesting part of pattern drafting is developing its final pattern.


Final pattern includes the needed symbols that will guide the dressmaker/tailor
during theg laying out of the pattern on the material.
.

57
Some of the symbols that should be indicated on a finished pattern are
the following:

Pattern Symbol Description How to use

Grainline – heavy solid Place pattern piece on


line with arrows at each fabric with arrow
end parallel to selvage.
=
Button and buttonhole Mark position where it
placement - solid lines should be indicated
that indicate length of
buttonhole

Dart - broken line Mark, fold along center


forming a “V” shape, line and carefully match
usually at hipline , bust lines and dots. Stitch to
line a point.

Seamline - long broken Refer to specific seam


line, usually 5/8” (1.5 allowances
cm) inside cutting line.

Hem - hem allowance is Turn hem up to the


printed on the cutting specified amount,
line. adjusting as necessary.

Cutting Line - heavy Cut exactly on this line


solid line along outer when making the final
edge of pattern. May also pattern.
designate a cut-off line
for a certain view.

58
Preliminaries before Making the Final Pattern

Before you make a final pattern, you should check the foundation pattern
for any discrepancy so that troubles during fitting can be avoided. Let us make
a comparison and final checking of your block patterns.

For Regular Polo Shirt

 The front pattern has a deeper neckline than the back pattern.
 The front armhole has a deeper curve than the back.
 The center front is longer than the back.
 Sides of the front and back pattern are of the same length.
 Chest measurements are of the same width.

For Short and Long Pants

 Waist of back pattern is wider than the front pants.


 Crotch of back pattern is deeper than the back.
 Crotch line of the back is wider than the front.
 Knee line is of the same level or length.
 Front and back pants length are of the same measurement.
 Bottom or hem of the back is wider than the front part.
 Dart is correctly located on the waistline.

After checking all of these major parts of the pattern, you can now proceed
in making the final pattern. You must prepare the following tools and materials
before starting this interesting activity.

Supplies and Materials

 Pattern paper
 Pencil
 Eraser

Measuring and Shaping Devices

 L- square
 French curve
 Hip curve
 Triangle or ruler

59
Manipulating the Pattern

A. Polo shirt

 Front and Back

Front Back

Provide necessary seam allowances. Use the given measurements below:

Facing (for front opening) 3 ½ inches (8.9 cm)


Neckline seam ¼ inch (0.6 cm)
Shoulder seam ½ inch (1.3 cm)
Hemline 1 ½ inches (3.8 cm)
Side seam 1 inch (2.54 cm)

Tips:
 Fold facing towards the body before reshaping the neckline and the
hemline seam allowances.
 During pattern drafting, space for allowance can be provided to save
material.

60
 Sleeve

Prepare a piece of pattern paper. Trace the sleeve pattern and apply the
following seam allowances:
Armscye ½ inch (1.3 cm)
Sides ½ inch (1.3 cm)
Hemline 1 ½ (4 cm)

Note: If there is a space for


allowance, there is no need to
trace the pattern on another
piece of pattern paper to
make the final pattern.

 Collar

Measure ¼ inch (0.6 cm) on the edges of the neckline. Be sure to shape the
neckline smoothly.

B. Short Pants
Waistline ½ inch (1.3 cm.)
Crotch ½ inch (1.3 cm.)
In-seam ¾ inch (2 cm.)
Hemline 1 ½ inches (4 cm)
Out-seam 1 inch (2.54 cm)

61
C. Long Pants
 Front and Back

Waistline ½ inch (1.3 cm)


Crotch ½ inch (1.3 cm) (back only)
In-seam ¾ inch (2 cm) (back only)
Out-seam ¾ inch (2 cm) (back only)

Front Back

 Pocket

Top ½ inch (1.3 cm)


Sides ¼ inch (0.6 cm)
Pouch hem ½ inch (1.3 cm)
Pocket lips ¼ inch (0.6 cm)

Note: Pocket pattern must be cut into two pieces when laid onto the fabric.

62
 Placket facings

Seam allowances are already included in the


drafted pattern.

Note: Check all pattern pieces if correct and


make sure pattern symbols are indicated.

Cutting the Final Patterns

Once you are done with the manipulation and allocation of allowances on
the pattern, you may now cut the final pattern following the guidelines below:

1. Use appropriate cutting tool. It must be sharp enough to cut edges and
curves smoothly. Never use fabric shears in cutting pattern.
2. Cut exactly on the seam allowances. Do not try to increase or decrease it
so that problems will be prevented during garment construction. This
also facilitates an easier and exact placement of patterns when planning
for pattern layout.
3. To cut curved areas smoothly, like pockets, armholes and crotch, make a
short cut using the tip of the scissors.
4. For patterns that need to be prepared in double such as pockets, collar
and sleeves, have a ready pattern to plan the layout easily. This is an
advantage when the fabric is limited for specific project but be sure to
make its identical pieces.

LET US REMEMBER

The secret of a well-fitted garment depends on how patterns are


manipulated. Enjoy doing this task as if you are always making your own.
Practice the best method and use the best tools consistently until you
acquire the needed skills in this craft.

63
SELF CHECK

Directions: Answer the following questions briefly.

1. Why do you have to manipulate pattern?


________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

2. Why is it important to indicate pattern symbols on the final patterns?


________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
3. How is the facing for polo shirt cut?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

64
LET US APPLY WHAT YOU HAVE LEARNED
Task: Make Final Patterns
1. Develop the final patterns of the following:
 Polo shirt
Front part
Back part
Sleeve pattern
Collar
Yoke
 Short Pants and Long pants
Front part
Back part
Pocket
Placket facings
2. Evaluate finished patterns using the score card below.

Score Card for Pattern Manipulation

Assessment Criteria Highest Student Teacher


possible
score
A. Tools (10%)
 Drafting tools appropriate and properly
used 10
 Drafting tools in good condition

B. Procedure/Process (10%)
 The step-by step procedure correctly
followed 10

C. Accuracy of Measurements (20%) 20

D. Completed Pattern/Output (40%)


 Patterns are correctly interpreted and 10
manipulated in accordance with the job
requirements.
 Corners are neat and smooth and curved 6
areas are properly shaped
 Seam allowances are correctly added. 6
 Unnecessary marks were erased neatly 6
 Final patterns are properly labeled. 6
 Final patterns were correctly cut. 6
E. Work Habits (10%) 10
F. Speed (10%) 10
TOTAL 100

65
RESOURCES:

Tools
 L-square
 Hip Curve
 Tape Measure
 Triangle
 Meter stick
 Scissors

Supplies
 Pattern paper
 Bond paper
 Pencil
 Eraser

Materials
 Learning Modules
 Textbooks
 Men’s apparel Catalog
 Sample Men’s apparel
 Personal Measurement Record

Equipment
 Cutting table
 Model form

66
SELF CHECK
Directions: Select the best answer from the given options on each item. Write
your answers in your quiz notebook.

1. In cutting patterns, which line should be cut?


a. cutting line
b. dart line
c. neckline
d. seam allowance
2. What is the characteristic of the armhole of a front polo shirt?
a. deeper than the back
b. longer than the back
c. shallow than the back
d. shorter than the back
3. How is pressing line symbol placed in the block or final pattern?
a. along the lengthwise grain
b. on the crosswise
c. 45◦ on the pattern
d. any of the above
4. Which pattern symbol is used to indicate center lines, end of seam lines,
and is cut with the tip of the scissor?
a. bias grain
b. dart
c. notch
d. Lengthwise grain
5. Which part of the sleeve is set to the armhole of a polo shirt?
a. armscye
b. hem
c. sides
d. any of the above
6. Which of the following is not a part of short pants?
a. cuff
b. waistband
c. placket
d. pocket
7. Which collar cannot be applied on men’s polo shirt?
a. Chinese collar
b. executive collar
c. peter pan collar
d. continuous collar
8. What should be done to the overlap or button lap if the neckline of a polo
shirt pattern is shaped?
a. folded only half of the facing
b. folded whole facing towards the bodice
c. shaped it without folding facing
d. any of the above
9. When you measure the front neck line, where should the end of the tape
measure be placed?
a. center front neckline
b. half of neckline
c. one inch from center line
d. one-third of neckline

67
10. What part of the waist circumference will be laid out in front of the pants’
pattern?
a. ¼ of the waist circumference
b. ½ of the waist circumference
c. ¾ of the waist circumference
d. any of the above
11. Which point of the body is located 4 inches (10.2 cm.) below shoulder tip
point?
a. chest point
b. elbow point
c. knee point
d. shoulder neck point
12. When a tape measure is placed across the shoulder tip points, the item
measured is ________________.
a. chest
b. crotch or rise
c. shoulder
d. waist
13. What measurement is taken from the nape (at the back of the neck) down
to the desired length?
a. length long pants
b. length of shirt
c. length of sleeve
d. length of short pants
14. In order to locate waistline in taking body measurements, what should be
done first?
a. Let the client point to his/her waist
b. Put a piece of tape or adhesive on the waist of the client
c. Tie a string on the waistline of the client
d. any of the above
15. Where do you start to measure in order to take an accurate length of long
sleeves?
a. a from shoulder tip point passing elbow to the wrist
b. from the shoulder tip point passing halfway bent elbow to the wrist
c. c from shoulder tip point passing full bent elbow to the wrist
d. any of the above
16. What factor in garment planning do we consider to suit the client daily
lifestyle?
a. personal needs
b. resources
c. time and even
d. d any of the above
17. Which characteristic refers to the smoothness or dullness of a fabric?
a. color
b. hue
c. intensity
d. texture
18. How are cotton fabrics different from rayon and polyester?
a. They are lustrous.
b. They are resilient.
c. They are shrink-resistant.
d. They are stronger when wet.

68
19. Which devices are used in drafting patterns accurately?
a. cutting tools
b. measuring/shaping tools
c. pressing tools
d. sewing tools
20. Which tool is best in shaping slight curves of the pattern?
a. French curve
b. hip curve
c. L-square
d. triangle
21. What do you call the process of separating pieces using appropriate
cutting tools?
a. cutting
b. drafting
c. manipulating
d. sewing
22. What part is being measured when the tape measure is placed on waist
location down to the seat?
a. chest
b. hip
c. knee measurement
d. rise
23. Which of the following is NOT a characteristic of rayon?
a. absorbent
b. lustrous
c. good drapability
d. weaker when wet
24. What measuring devices used to shape the depth of the neck hole and
armhole of the pattern?
a. French curve
b. hip curve
c. l – square
d. yardstick
25. Which method is correct in taking an accurate rise measurement?
a. from waist measurement down to the hip
b. from the waist to the seat
c. from the waist to desired length
d. any of the above

69
MODULE 2

QUALIFICATION TITLE : TAILORING NC II

UNIT OF COMPETENCY : PREPARE AND CUT MATERIALS


FOR MEN’S CASUAL
APPAREL

MODULE TITLE : PREPARING AND CUTTING


MATERIALS FOR MEN’S
CASUAL APPAREL

NOMINAL DURATION : 60 HRS.

TAILORING NC II

70
MODULE INTRODUCTION

This module covers the knowledge, skills, and attitudes required in


preparing and cutting materials for men’s casual apparel. It includes laying out
of patterns, pinning, marking, and cutting of the material or fabric.

EXPECTED OUTCOME

After completing the module, you should be able to:


a. prepare materials/fabrics;
b. lay out and mark patterns on materials / fabrics; and
c. cut materials.

71
PRETEST

I. Identification: Identify what is being described in the sentence. Write the


answer in your quiz notebook.

1. It is done with the material folded in a basin of water.


2. The up and down motion of an iron.
3. It is an additional ornament on a bare fabric.
4. It is done to straighten grain lines necessary before cutting.
5. A piece of bone, metal, plastic used to fasten a garment by inserting
through a buttonhole or loop.
6. It is a distinctive emphasis on a dress.
7. A pocket found on the outer part of the garment.
8. The direct placement of pattern pieces on the fabric before cutting.
9. It is a pouch attached to the garment that can serve as an accent.
10. A sleek, low profile pocket perfect for a blazer or tailored jacket, or a pair
of dress slacks

II. Multiple Choice: Select the letter of the correct answer. Write your answers
in your quiz notebook.

1. A tool with bent handles and blade used for cutting the fabric is
called__________________.
a. pinking shears
b. seam ripper
c. scissors
d. shears
2. A space provided between the cutting line and the seam line.
a. lay out
b. pinning
c. plain seam
d. seam allowance
3. Following directions correctly and using tools properly will make the
cutting of fabric_________________.
a. beautiful
b. easy
c. prepared
d. silt
4. All of these are the guidelines in cutting garment pieces except
__________________________.
a. putting the cut part aside but not removing the pins and pattern
to keep this ready for marking
b. keeping all scraps of cloth for future use
c. transferring marks on the wrong side of the cloth
d. walking around the table as you cut the fabric
5. A tool used to cut pattern pieces, trim seam edges and cut buttonholes
and thread ends.
a. seam ripper
b. a pair of shears
c. a pair of scissors
d. none of the above

72
6. The finished edge of the fabric running lengthwise or on the sides of the
fabric.
a. bias
b. crosswise
c. grainline
d. selvage
7. A functional finish used to hold the unfinished edges of a garment to
make it firm and trim.
a. binding
b. gathers
c. tucks
d. yoke
8. A fastener that comes with straight eyes for lapped edges.
a. buttons
b. hook and eye
c. snaps
d. zipper
9. The fabric is folded with the selvage meeting at the center.
a. crosswise grain
b. lengthwise grain
c. off center crosswise grain
d. off center lengthwise grain
10. What do you call a small bag or pouch attached to a garment?
a. appliqué
b. bag
c. button
d. pockets

73
LESSON 1

PREPARING MATERIALS/FABRICS

INTRODUCTION

The lesson deals on how to soak, dry, straighten and press fabrics in
accordance with the fabric care standard. It also includes selecting appropriate
fastener and accent in accordance with the specified garment style and design.

ASSESSMENT CRITERIA

1. Fabric is soaked, dried, straightened, and pressed in accordance with


the specified garment design or style.
2. Appropriate fasteners and accents are selected and used in accordance
with the specified garment design or style.

DEFINITION OF TERMS

 Accent – a distinctive emphasis on a dress.


 Fasteners - devices used to close the openings of garments and
facilitate their wearing.
 Grainline – the direction of fabric threads.
 Trimming – any ornamental addition to the garment. It is also
used to enhance or add beauty to the garment.
 Wringing – to twist or squeeze the cloth with force.
 Wrinkle – crease in clothes.

INFORMATION SHEET 2.1

Preparing the Materials for Cutting

Let us recall the parts of a fabric so you will never be confused during the
discussion of this lesson.

74
Warp

Crosswise
thread

Selvage

 Selvage - the finished edge of the fabric running lengthwise or on the


sides of the fabric. There is a selvage on both lengthwise edges of woven
fabrics.

 Warp- the lengthwise thread running parallel to the selvage. The


lengthwise threads are stronger than the crosswise threads.

 Woof- the crosswise thread running at right angle or perpendicular to the


selvage. This is usually slightly weaker than the lengthwise thread.

 True bias - the diagonal line of a perfect square of fabric. The bias line
makes 45 degree angle with the lengthwise and crosswise threads.

Fabrics also come in various widths. They can be purchased at textile


stores. You need to purchase and prepare a fabric that fits the job requirement/
specifications of your client.

Here is a table showing the different widths of fabrics.

Inches Centimeters
35” – 36” 90 cm
39” 100 cm
44” 45” 115 cm
48” 122 cm
50” 127 cm
54” – 56” 140 cm
68” – 70” 175 cm
72” 180 cm

75
Methods in Preparing Fabric

To prevent future problems in fitting, there is a need to prepare


the material before cutting. The stages in preparing the fabric are
soaking, straightening and pressing.

 Soaking – when the material is placed in a basin of water. It is then


dried without wringing.

Steps in Soaking and Drying

1. Fold the fabric lengthwise, wrong side out, and selvages together.
2. Fold crosswise several times.
3. Put fabric in a basin of water, immerse for six to twelve hours or
overnight.
4. Unfold the fabric and hang to dry. Avoid wringing the fabric.

 Straightening – when the material is straightened of grain line


before cutting

To straighten the fabric edge, pull a strand along the crosswise


grain then cut following the line created by the pulled thread.

To straighten the grain, stretch the fabric by pulling the cloth


diagonally.

76
 Pressing – when the wrinkled parts caused by improper hanging are
pressed.

Pressing Tips

1. Unplug steam iron when you fill it with water.


2. Set iron in heel stand when not in use.
3. Test iron setting and effects of steam on a sample seam and dart
sewn in fabric scraps.
4. Press, using lower pause lift motion. Do not slide iron from place
to place.
5. Press each seam before crossing another seam.
6. Do most pressing on the wrong side of the fabric. Use correct
press cloth when pressing from the right side. The press cloth
protects fabric from changes in fabric surface, hand and
appearance.
7. Do not press over pins or basting unless the basting is stitched
with silk thread. This scratches the iron and also leaves a mark
on many fabrics.
8. Keep seam line perfectly straight when pressing straightly seams,
so seams hang correctly. Pressed curved seams and darts on
shaped pressing equipment to prevent distorted or stretched lines.
9. Do not over press.
10. Allow pressed areas to cool before moving. If fabric must be
moved, lift and support it with both hands to prevent the fabric
from stretching out of shape.
11. Unplug iron after using it.

Selecting and Preparing Fasteners

Fasteners are also an important detail in garment construction that is


why it needs to be selected carefully by a dressmaker. Fasteners are used to
close the openings of garments and facilitate their wearing. They come in
different sizes and strengths. A non-sew snap provides a good alternative to
buttonholes of many casual garments.

77
Fasteners

Fasteners are devices used to close the opening of garments and facilitate
their wearing. The main purpose of concealing garment closing is to keep it flat
and small.

 Buttons – the most popular fasteners. They may also be used as


decorations. The kinds of buttons are:

1. Flat buttons – also called sew-through have two or four


stitching holes.

2. Fabric covered button - made from a kit or made


to order. This button matches the garment and
has a shank or stem.

3. Shank button – made from plastic, bone or


metals. This button has a stem underneath
where stitching is done.

4. Rivet button – a non-sewn button. This is


attached by a rivet inserted to the fabric from
the wrong side.

5. Novelty button – may be an individual shape,


or one of set or range and maybe flat but often
has a shank.

78
 Hook and eye – a fastener that comes with straight eyes for lapped edges
usually on waistband.

 Snap fasteners – used on flat surfaces where there is a little strain.

 Zipper – a closure made of metal or nylon chains attached to the tape so


that it can be stitched into a placket. The types of zipper are:

1. Chain zipper – a medium weight zip with


metal or plastic teeth.

2. Coil zipper - a synthetic coils or


polyester or nylon attached to woven
tape.

3. Concealed zipper – zipper has teeth that are


concealed on the underside.

4. Open-ended zipper – chain zipper


where teeth separate at the base into
two halves.

79
Kinds of Trimmings

 Rickrack– a gag finishes for cotton clothes. It is invariably used to


provide contrast on garments.
 Binding– a functional finish used to hold the unfinished edges of a
garment to make it firm and trim. It is narrow and made of soft fabric.
 Gathers– appear on necklines and sleeves Often, they are repeated
twice or thrice in one dress.
 Tucks – appear attractive on light and medium-weight materials
especially on sheer materials because of the light-and-shadow effect they
give. They are easy to make on materials that crease well.
 Pockets– made using one or two layers of fabric cut in the desired
shape and placed on the right side of the garment and set into a
garment opening or seams.
 Yoke– a part of the garment fitted close to the shoulder, hips, or other
parts of the body as a support for other parts.

Classifications of Pockets

Pocket is a small bag or pouch attached to a garment. It is used to secure


money, handkerchiefs or wallet or to decorate a garment. The details of finishing
pockets may vary from the original types but the principle of making them
always remains practically the same. Pockets are classified as follows:

1. Patch pocket - placed on the outside of the


garment. It can be made from the fashion fabric,
lined or unlined and may be attached either by
machine or by hand. It can be square, rectangular,
pointed or curved and may be decorated with
topstitching, lace or braid trims, or construction
details such as tucks.

 Coin pocket- a small pocket inside the


right-hand hip pocket of a pair of
jeans. It is a rather tight fit, but its
design is quite effective in keeping your
loose coins from jingling around.

Coin pocket
 Cargo /Accordion pocket - appears
commonly on trendy jeans and cargo pants as
a large pocket on the thigh, usually with
snap-flaps or Velcro flaps, and accordion
folds on the sides for increased capacity. It is
believed that this kind of pocket first
appeared on the battledress uniform.

Accordion pocket

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2. Seam pocket – a pocket attached to a seam
such as side pocket and secret pocket. Side
seam pocket design varies from continental,
scoop, slide side, square, etc.

Side seam pocket (Scoop)

3. Slash Pocket- inserted or slashed opening of pocket provided with a pocket


bag.

a. Bound Pocket – a sleek, low profile pocket


perfect for a blazer or tailored jacket, or a pair of
dress slacks. Only the opening of the pocket is
visible on the outside of the garment. These
pockets are also known as buttonhole pockets,
since the opening resembles an over-sized
buttonhole.

Bound pocket
Parts of a Bound Pocket

 Facing- a piece of cloth attached to the


pocket mouth.
 Fold line- a line where the fall is indicated.
 Pocket bag - the bag of the pocket.
.

b. Welt pocket- similar to the bound pocket


but has a single piece of fabric shown. It
is used to keep a handkerchief, car fare,
or any small article and sometimes
simply to create a decorative effect on the
garment.

Welt pocket

c. Flapped Pocket- consists of two parts—


the flap, which serves both as a finish for
the pocket opening and as protection for
the pocket itself, and the pouch, which is
similar to that of the bound pocket. Flap
pockets are generally placed on the sides
of the garments, and as a rule two
pockets are made at the same time, one
on each side.
Flapped Pocket

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LET US REMEMBER

In preparing material/fabric, pre-shrinking must be done first to avoid


fitting problems. It includes soaking, drying, straightening, and pressing.

SELF CHECK

1. How are fabrics prepared before cutting?


___________________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________________
2. Why is it necessary to prepare fabric before cutting?
___________________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________________.
3. Do we pre-shrink all types of fabric? Why?
___________________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________________

82
LET US APPLY WHAT YOU HAVE LEARNED

Task: Prepare Materials

1. Perform the following steps in fabric preparation.


a. Soaking
b. Drying
c. Straightening
d. Pressing of fabric
2. Select appropriate fasteners and trimmings.
3. Assess performance using the following checklist.

EVALUATION SHEET IN PREPARING MATERIALS

Evaluate your performance by putting a check ( ) in the appropriate


column.

Criteria C NC
1. Appropriate materials were prepared and used.
2. Fabric was correctly soaked and dried in
accordance with the procedure
3. Fabric was straightened correctly
4. Fabric was pressed properly
5. Safety habits were observed when preparing the
fabric.
6. Appropriate fasteners and accents were carefully
selected in accordance with the specified garment
design or style.

Legend: C- Competent NC-Not Competent

Final Assessment: ______________________

Assessed by: ______________________________

RESOURCES

A. Tools
1. basin of water
2. flat iron
3. ironing board
4. scissors
5. clothes clip

B. Materials
1. cloth
2. clothesline
3. trimmings
4. accessories

83
LESSON 2

LAYING OUT AND MARKING PATTERN ON THE


MATERIAL/FABRIC

INTRODUCTION

The lesson deals with the laying out and marking of pattern materials on
the fabric parallel to the grainline in accordance with the fabric design or style,
tracing and marking of pocket locations.

ASSESSMENT CRITERIA

1. Pattern pieces are laid out on the fabric according to the grain lines.
2. Pattern pieces are positioned and pinned manually in accordance with
the fabric design.
3. Seam allowances are marked on the fabric in accordance with the
garment style.
4. Pocket locations are traced or marked on the fabric in accordance with
the specified garment style.

DEFINITION OF TERMS

 Estimate – to form an approximate opinion of size,


amount, or number
 Grainline – the crosswise and lengthwise direction of
thread.
 Lay out – the way the pattern pieces are placed on the
fabric for cutting
 Pattern – a device used by a dressmaker in sewing a
garment

INFORMATION SHEET 2.1

Pattern Layout

Economy is one virtue worth developing in one’s life. Economy may mean
wise spending of resources, material or non-material. In buying the materials
you need for your sewing project, it is important to remember that you buy only
what you need. The less money you spend on a project without sacrificing the
quality, the cheaper your project will be. This can easily be done by coming up
with good estimate of the fabric yardage needed. Another way is to have a

84
concrete knowledge of fabric layout. Knowing the most economical way of laying
out the pattern pieces on the fabric will avoid the possibility of fabric wastage.

Ways of Folding Fabric

There are four ways of folding fabric. Deciding on the method of fabric
fold to use is based on the width of the fabric and the design of the garment.

1. Lengthwise Centerfold. The fabric is folded lengthwise at the center with the
selvages together.

2.
Crosswise Centerfold. The fabric is folded crosswise at the center with the
raw edges together.

3. Off-Center Lengthwise Fold. The fabric is folded with the selvage meeting at
the center.

4. Off-

85
Center Crosswise Fold. The fabric is folded with the raw edges meeting at
the center.

Pattern Layout Techniques

Pattern layout depends on the width of the material to be used. Here are
some ways to layout pattern using different widths of materials:

1. One way layout on a 36 inch-width with selvages

2. Two-way layout on a 36 inch-width with all the pattern pieces placed


in different direction.

86
3. Two-way layout on a 54 inch-width material

4. Open layout for a polo shirt using 45 inch-width fabric

1A 1B

5
3A
2
3B

6
4A

4B

Legend:
1A =Front Body Left Side
1B =Front Body Right Side
2 =Back Body
3A =Shoulder Yoke
3B =Shoulder Yoke
4A =Collar
4B =Collar
5 =Pocket
6 =Sleeve (2 pcs.)

87
Guidelines in Laying out Pattern on Fabric

A well-sewn garment starts at the cutting table. Laying out your pattern
on the fabric to prepare for cutting is an important step that must be done
carefully and accurately for great-looking results. Here are some tips on layout
and some ideas on pinning or using weights to anchor your pattern pieces in
place.
1. If you are cutting from a single layer of cloth, place a pattern piece right
side up and the other wrong side up.
2. Refold the fabric for the pattern pieces that are narrow and that are to be
cut on a fold.
3. Position the widest part of the pattern toward the cut end of the fabric.
4. If you are using plain fabrics, match the design on seamlines to give a
continuous effect.

Pattern Layout for Polo Shirt

Before attempting to layout pattern on the material, be sure to prepare


the following tools, equipment and materials needed:
Cutting table
Pins and pin cushion
Layout plan
Final patterns (pressed)
Fabrics (pressed)

The following illustration is a sample layout for polo shirt using a 60”
wide material:

88
Pattern Layout for Men’s Long Pants (60 inch-width material)

1 8
2

4 6

Legend:

1 = Back pattern
2 = Front pattern
3 = waistband
4 = waistband
5 = pocket
6 = lower facing
7 = right placket
8 = left placket

89
Techniques in Pinning Pattern Pieces on Fabric

1. Fabrics should be kept flat on the table when pinning. Do not lift it from
the table or place left hand under it.
2. Place pins perpendicular to the edges of the pattern.
3. Place the pins about 1.5 cm. from the edge, because the shears will be
changed and will have jagged edges when this cuts through the pins.
4. Pin the fabric in an interval of 13 cm. Too many pins on the cloth tend to
wrinkle it. The pattern will not get out of place when it is cut if more pins
are placed along curved edges.

Tip: In the case of heavy weight materials, fabric weights can be used to
replace pins. To make an improvised weight, collect tin cans and fill it
with cement.

Transferring Construction Marks

Construction marks such as seamline, pocket and dart position are


guides in sewing that must be clearly, neatly, and properly transferred from the
patterns to the cloth. In transferring construction marks for men’s apparel, the
following tools are needed:

a. Ruler
b. Tailor’s chalk

Transferring of marks for men’s apparel is facilitated through various


methods such as:

a. Tailor’s chalk and ruler method


b. Tailor’s chalk and thumb note

Transferring Construction Marks Using Tailor’s Chalk

Tailors employ the following steps in transferring marks using tailor’s chalk
and ruler:

1. Spread cut fabrics (with the pattern) on the table.


2. Position a ruler along a straight seam line, lift the pattern slightly and
mark the cloth using the tailor’s chalk or pencil. Use a French curve
instead of a ruler on curved edges.
3. Mark x on the wrong side.
4. Continue transferring marks on the other seamline.

90
Marking with Tailor’s Chalk

In transferring marks using pins and a tailor’s chalk, the following steps are
done:

1. Support fabric with one hand, and insert pins through all layers of fabric
along outline of pattern mark.
2. Carefully turn pattern piece over and use a ruler and marking pencil or
pen to trace along outline made by the pins. Turn pattern piece over so
that tissue side is facing up.
3. Unpin pattern and carefully pull the pattern piece over the heads of the
marking pins.
4. Once again, follow the outline made by the marking pins to trace the
pattern mark onto your fabric.

LET US REMEMBER

A tailor must be flexible in choosing the kind of fabric folds to be


used in every layout but should not deviate from what is required by the
sewing job. An adequate amount of fabric is ensured by making a trial
HOW MUCH of
placement HAVE YOU
all the LEARNED?
pattern pieces before cutting.

SELF CHECK

1. How do we economize on fabric when laying out pattern pieces on cloth?

______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________
2. Why is it important to position pattern pieces on a lengthwise grain?

______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________________
3. Which method is best when transferring marks on cloth? Why?

______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________________

91
LET US APPLY WHAT YOU HAVE LEARNED

Task: Laying out and Marking Pattern on Fabric


1. Perform the following tasks:
 Lay out pattern on cloth
 Pin pattern pieces
 Mark the fabric

2. Check your performance using the scorecard below.

Score Card for Laying out Pattern, Pinning and Marking

Assessment Criteria Highest Student Teacher


possible
score
A. Tools and Materials (20%)
 Complete 10
 Used appropriate tools and materials 10
B. Procedure/Process (50%)
 Patterns were laid on the wrong side of 10
the fabric
 Pattern pieces were properly laid out 10
and pinned on the material following
the fabric grainline.
 Construction lines were marked 10
accurately.
 Pocket locations were marked on the 10
fabric.
 Observed economy in laying out 10
patterns.
C. Safety and Health Habits (20%)
 Handled tools with utmost care. 10
 Maintained cleanliness of the area 10
D. Speed (10%) 10
TOTAL 100

RESOURCES:

Tools: Equipment:
1. pins 1. cutting table
2. ruler
3. pencil Material:
4. tailor’s chalk 1. cloth

92
LESSON 3

CUTTING THE MATERIALS


INTRODUCTION

This lesson deals on the use of appropriate cutting tools and the manner
of cutting fabric as prescribed in the set of standards for cutting.

ASSESSMENT CRITERIA

1. Appropriate cutting tools are identified and used according to the job
requirement.
2. Fabric is cut accurately as prescribed in the set of cutting standards.

DEFINITION OF TERMS

 Binding - a strip protecting or ornamenting fabric edge.


 Blunt - having a thick end or edge.
 Clip- a ¼ inch cut on the seam edge to make the curved parts of
garments lie flat.
 Layout- the direct placement of pattern pieces on cloth.
 Notch- v- shaped cut in a fabric used to mark centerlines and end
of seamlines
 Parallel - to place straight edges in line with each other.

INFORMATION SHEET 2.3

Appropriate Cutting Tool for Fabrics

Accuracy in cutting the fabric is crucial. To attain this, appropriate


cutting tool must be used. Take a look at the illustration below. This is the
appropriate cutting tool for fabric.

Cutting shears

93
Cutting shears are primarily used for cutting fabric. The bottom blade is
designed to angle slightly allowing the fabric to lie flat while cutting. The result
is, it limits the fabric from shifting. Cutting shears come in standard blade
lengths of 7"(18cm) and 8"(20.5cm). Larger blades are available up to 12"(30cm).

Pointers in Cutting Fabrics

To economize on materials, observe the following when cutting the fabric:

1. Keep the ends and sides of the material parallel with the table edges at
all times so that the grain will not shift.
2. Walk around the table as you cut.
3. Do not pick the cloth up from the table. Slip the left hand between the
cloth and the table.
4. Cut exactly on the edge of the pattern.
5. Cut notches outward or make short (1/4) clip instead.
6. Do not use pinking shears to cut out the garment.
7. Look over the guide sheet to find out if extra pieces will be needed in
finishing such as shaped facing, bias, binding, straight bands for cuffs,
or rectangles for piped buttonholes.
8. Cut all pieces before marking or basting. Try to get the markings all done
before removing the pattern from the fabric from the table.
9. Do not remove the pattern until you are ready to work on each piece.
10. Discard or recycle small scraps of fabrics and collect those you wish to
save in net bundle.

LET US REMEMBER

The success of a tailor depends on his/her ability to follow


directions accurately and use tools and fabric properly.

94
SELF CHECK

Directions: Answer the given questions below:

1. Why should you not lift the cloth while cutting?


___________________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
2. Why do you have to make notches or clip on the fabric edge?
___________________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
3. How do you keep your shears sharp and in good condition?
___________________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

95
LET US APPLY WHAT YOU HAVE LEARNED

Task: Cut the Fabric


1. Perform actual cutting of fabric for polo shirt according to the prescribed
standard for cutting.
2. Evaluate performance and output using the scorecard below.

Score Card for Cutting the Fabric

Assessment Criteria Highest Student Teacher


possible
score
A. Tools and Materials (10%)
 Used appropriate tools and materials 10
 In good condition
B. Process (50%)
 Used both hands to secure work flat on 10
the table.
 Used long even strokes on straight edges 10
and short strokes on curved edges
 Cut the garment at one time 10
 Observed economy in cutting the fabric 10
 Cloth remnants were collected and tied 10
together
C. Output (20%)
 Edges and curves of fabrics were 10
accurately and smoothly cut
 Notches were cut properly 5
 Complete garment parts 5
D. Safety and Health Habits (10%)
 Handled tools with utmost care. 5
 Maintained cleanliness in the work area 5
E. Speed (10) 10
 Finished and submitted on time
TOTAL 100

RESOURCES:

A. Tools:
1. Cutting Shears
2. Pins
3. Pin Cushion
4. Personal Protective Equipment

B. Materials
1. Cloth
2. Pattern paper

96
SELF CHECK

I. Identification: Identify what is described in each sentence. Write your answer


in your quiz notebook.

1. It is a pouch attached to the garment that can serve as an accent.


2. The direct placement of pattern pieces on the fabric before cutting.
3. It is an additional ornament on the bare fabric.
4. It is a pocket found on the outer part of the garment.
5. It is a piece of bone, metal, plastic used to fasten a garment by inserting
through a buttonhole or loop.
6. A sleek, low profile pocket perfect for a blazer or tailored jacket, or a pair
of dress slacks.
7. It is done with the material folded in basin of water.
8. It refers to the up and down motion of an iron.
9. It is done to straighten grain lines necessary before cutting.
10. It is used to enhance or add beauty to a garment.

II. Multiple Choice: Select the letter of the correct answer. Write your answers
in your quiz notebook.

1. The finished edge of the fabric running lengthwise or on the sides of the
fabric.
a. bias
b. crosswise
c. grainline
d. selvage
2. A functional finish used to hold the unfinished edges of a garment to
make it firm and trim.
a. binding
b. gathers
c. tucks
d. yoke
3. A fastener that comes with straight eyes for lapped edges.
a. buttons
b. hook and eye
c. snaps
d. zipper
4. The fabric is folded with the selvage meeting at the center.
a. crosswise grain
b. lengthwise grain
c. off center crosswise grain
d. off center lengthwise grain
5. What do you call a small bag or pouch attached to a garment?
a. appliqué
b. bag
c. button
d. pockets

6. It is a tool with bent handles and blade used for cutting the fabric.

97
a. pinking shears
b. seam ripper
c. scissors
d. shears
7. It is a space provided between the cutting line and the seam line.
a. lay outing
b. pinning
c. plain seam
d. seam allowance
8. If directions were correctly followed and tools were properly used, work
becomes _______.
a. beautiful
b. easy
c. prepared
d. silt
9. This is not a guideline in cutting garment pieces.
a. putting the cut part aside but not removing the pins and pattern
to keep this ready for marking
b. keeping all scraps of cloth for future use
c. transferring marks on the wrong side of the cloth
d. walking around the table as you cut the fabric
10. It is a tool used to cut pattern pieces, trim seam edges and cut
buttonholes and excess threads.
a. seam ripper
b. shears
c. scissors
d. none of the above

98
MODULE 3

QUALIFICATION TITLE : TAILORING NC II

UNIT OF COMPETENCY : SEW MEN’S APPAREL

MODULE TITLE : SEWING MEN’S APPAREL

NOMINAL DURATION : 160 HRS

TAILORING NC II

99
MODULE INTRODUCTION

This module covers the knowledge, skills and attitude required in


preparing cut parts of the garments, setting sewing machine for operations,
sewing and assembling garment parts and altering completed garments.

EXPECTED OUTCOME

At the end of this module, you should be able to:

a. prepare cut parts in accordance with the specified garment style or


design;
b. sew and assemble garment parts; and
c. alter finished garment.

100
PRETEST

I. Multiple Choice. Write the letter of the correct answer in your quiz notebook.

1. It is a part of the garment which covers the arm but shows no fullness.
a. collar
b. placket
c. plain sleeve
d. pocket
2. This is known as a two-piece collar.
a. Chinese collar
b. executive collar
c. peter pan collar
d. sports collar
3. It is an organized way of assembling a garment.
a. lay outing
b. pressing
c. pattern drafting
d. unit method of construction
4. It is a small bag or pouch attached to a garment used to hold money,
handkerchiefs or wallet.
a. placket
b. pocket
c. sleeves
d. zipper
5. This is known as the pocket proper.
a. inner facing
b. pocket bag
c. pocket piece
d. watch pocket
6. This is the cause of difficulty if the garment shows some wrinkles below
the back hip.
a. large abdomen and slightly wide crotch
b. low neckline
c. narrow shoulder
d. tight neckline
7. This is a factor to consider in judging a well- fitted garment.
a. collar
b. design
c. ease
d. fabric
8. One of these is a good characteristic of a well- fitted polo.
a. collar tips are unequal
b. neckline is flat over the shoulder
c. seams are smooth
d. waistline is at normal location
9. This is the cause of the difficulty of the garment which appears very
strained and tight across the hips.
a. large abdomen
b. large hips
c. sloping shoulders
d. square shoulders

101
10. It is an article that is used to close an opening like buttons, snaps, and
zipper.
a. closure
b. layout
c. pocket
d. sleeves
11. When a garment has wrinkles which radiate from the abdomen area of a
diagonal line into the back part of a garment, what factor of a well done
garment has been violated?
a. ease
b. balance
c. line
d. set
12. This seam finish is perfect for fabrics that do not ravel easily.
a. clean
b. plain
c. overcasted
d. overedging
13. It is an article that is attached to the neckline of a garment.
a. collar
b. placket
c. pocket
d. sleeve
14. It is a seam within a seam.
a. French seam
b. lapped seam
c. overcasted open seam
d. zigzag seam
15. It is a lengthwise or crosswise yarn of threads in a woven fabric.
a. area
b. grain
c. line
d. layout

102
LESSON 1

PREPARING CUT PARTS


INTRODUCTION

In this lesson, you will learn about preparations of cut parts in


accordance with the specified garment design or style.

ASSESSMENT CRITERIA

1. Cut parts are prepared in accordance with the specified garment


design or style.
2. Cut parts are pinned together in accordance with the garment design
or style.
3. Cut parts are pressed in accordance with the garment design.

DEFINITION OF TERMS

 Pinning– fastening particles together using pins


 Pucker– wrinkle.
 Snagged – seized quickly.
 Suspended – stopped temporarily.

INFORMATION SHEET 3.1

Key Points in Preparing Cut Parts

Cut parts are prepared to make assembling easy. Below are the key
points in preparing cut parts:

1. Use both hands to anchor work flat on the table.


2. Separate the big units from the small units.
3. Place the cloth parts flat on the table.
4. Label the units to avoid confusion when sewing.
5. To get easily the garment parts to be sewed first, place them at the right
side of the sewing machine table.

Pinning Fabric Pieces/Units Together

When pinning, pins are placed perpendicular to the edge of a fabric,


pattern to the edges of any kind of seam preparatory to basting or stitching, to
the folded edge of a dart, pleat, tuck, or hem, and to seams fitted right side out.
In this way the two layers are kept smoothly. If pins are placed parallel to these
edges, the edges will pucker unevenly.

103
On satins, velvets, some manmade fiber fabrics, permanent press fabrics
and other fabrics easily marred by pins, use extra fine pins.

Methods of Pinning

1. For matching ordinary seams, hold the work up and insert pins at right
angles on the seam lines of both layers.
2. For lapped seams, pleats and other flat work on the table, use the
fingers of both hands spread to serve as weight to push up a little fold
while the right hand pushes the pin through. Smooth out the fabric
before lifting the hands entirely away, as in basting.

Cautions:
 Do not put pins in your mouth.
 Keep unused pins in your handy cushion rather than leaving them on
the machine or table.
 Discard dirty, dull, bent pins – they will ruin your material.

Pressing Techniques

Pressing is important in all stages of sewing to shape and set stitched


lines. Steam iron and ironing board are essential.
Correct pressing opens and flattens seams, hems, and enclosed edges
without leaving imprints on the right side of the garment. The original texture,
color and finish of the fabric are retained if pressing is done correctly.
The fabric should be free of folds and wrinkles before beginning to work.
If the lengthwise fold interfered with the placing of the warp and woof threads in
proper position, then it should be removed. No one is able to cut or construct a
garment successfully if the material is not smooth. Never press the material
with the thread in a diagonal or in less direction. The crosswise of filling threads
must be checked for their right angle position to the lengthwise or warp threads.
The table below gives you idea on how to press different types of fabric.

FABRIC TYPES CARE GUIDE IN PRESSING


Acrylic  Use moderately warm iron.
Cotton  Can be set to hot since it does not scorch easily.
Linen  Linen fabrics need frequent pressing, unless
treated for crease resistance.
Polyester  Use a moderately warm iron if ironing is needed.
Polyester is resistant to crease and keeps its
shape.
Rayon  Press the fabric while damp on the wrong side
with the iron at a moderate setting.
Silk  Use a moderately warm iron.
Spandex  If ironing is required, iron rapidly and do not
leave the iron in one place too long. Use a low
temperature setting on the iron.

104
Cautions:

 Use the correct temperature for each type of fabric as indicated on the
iron. If there is no temperature control on the iron, test the heat on a
piece of fabric before pressing.
 Do not press over pins for it may leave marks which are difficult to
remove.
 Press on the wrong side of the material.
 Set iron on heel stand when not in use.
 Unplug iron when you have finished using it.

LET US REMEMBER

A good output can be achieved in preparing cut parts by pinning


same parts and applying correct pressing techniques.

SELFCHECK

I. Fill in the blanks. Choose your answer from the list below. Write your
answer in your quiz notebook.

grainline damp cloth


flat needles hands
right side label pins
big units

1. Use both _____ to anchor work flat on the table.


2. Separate the _____ with the small units.
3. Place the _____ parts flat on the table.
4. _____ the units to avoid confusion when sewing.
5. To get easily the garment parts to be sewed, place them at the _____ of
the sewing machine table.
6. Do not put ________ in your mouth.
7. Patterns are pinned to cloth first along the __________.
8. On the fine fabrics, use _________ or weights for holding pattern down.
9. Pressing over ______ makes marks difficult to remove.
10. Press the article while _______on the wrong side.

II. Answer the following questions briefly.

1. Why is it important to prepare cut parts of the fabric?


2. Why do we have to test flat iron on a scrap of fabric?
3. How do you prevent scorching or burning while pressing the fabric?

105
LET US APPLY WHAT YOU HAVE LEARNED

Task: Prepare Cut Parts

1. Prepare the cut parts of fabric for you project.


2. Check your performance by accomplishing the following checklist.

Assessment Criteria C NC
1. Appropriate tools and equipment were prepared and
used in preparing cut parts
2. Cut parts were prepared in accordance with the
specified garment design or style.
3. Cut parts were correctly pinned together.
4. Cut parts were properly pressed in accordance with
the fabric specifications.
5. Safety habits were observed when preparing cut
parts.

Final Assessment: _________________

Assessed by: _______________________

RESOURCES:

A. Equipment
1. Ironing board
2. Flat Iron
B. Tools
1. Pin cushion
2. Pins
C. Learning Materials
1. Textbooks
2. Writing pad
3. Manual
4. Cloth

106
LESSON 2

SEWING AND ASSEMBLING GARMENT PARTS


INTRODUCTION

In this lesson, you will learn about sewing and assembling garment parts
in accordance with job requirements.

ASSESSMENT CRITERIA

1. Garment parts are sewn and assembled in accordance with the sewing
standard procedure.
2. Pockets and plackets are identified and sewn according to the client’s
specifications.
3. Seam edges are finished in accordance with the job requirements.
4. Waistband width is evenly sewn from end to end according to the
standard operating procedure.

DEFINITION OF TERMS

 Interfacing -fabric used to give support and body to


garment areas such as buttons, buttonholes, collars, cuffs
and lapels.
 Placket - a finished opening in a garment
 Staystitch -stitch through a single thickness of fabric in the
seam allowance 1/16 -1/8 inch from the seam line to
prevent the stretching of garment bias edges.
 Snip-to cut with a quick stroke using the tip of scissors.
 Topstitch to stitch on the top an even distance from a seam
edge or fold. Stitching shows on the right side of the
garment.

INFORMATION SHEET 3.2


Kinds of Seams

The following are the kinds of seams commonly used in Tailoring:


 Plain seam

Plain Seam

107
Plain seam is often used for dresses, collar, linings, blouse, and skirt
made from fabric that does not ravel. The two edges of the fabric are simply
pinned or basted together and stitched.

 French Seam

French Seam

French seam is basically a seam within a seam. It is strong and durable


but should be used only on straight edges. This seam is used on lightweight
woven, sheer, and other delicate fabrics. It is an excellent choice for see-through
fabrics. French seams can be constructed by hand or sewing machine.

 Lapped Seam

Lapped Seam

The lapped seam is a very strong smooth seam which lies perfectly flat.
Its strength is due to the fact that it is sewed with two rows of stitching. It is
made on the right side of the garment

 Flat-Fell Seam

Flat-fell Seam

Flat-fell seam is a flat durable seam designed for woven fabrics and
straight edges. It is usually used for men’s wear, work clothes and children’s
clothes and pajamas that require strong, durable seams.

108
Kinds of Seam Finishes

 Overcasted Finish

Overcasted Finish

Overcasted finish is one of the original methods of finishing seams and


edges, dating prior to the invention of the sewing machine. There are occasions
when this edge finish is the most appropriate technique. Hand-overcast is used
on woven fabrics with straight and curved areas. It is also good—and
necessary—in areas not suited to other finishing techniques, such as L-shaped
areas (created at a kick pleat) and V-shaped areas (created when bulk is
removed from a princess-line seam).

 Zigzag Finish

Zigzag Finish

A zigzag seam finish is simply zigzag stitching applied to the raw edge of
a seam allowance. This seam finish can be used on almost any seam to enclose
the raw edge and prevent fraying. Pinking shears can be used in this seam.

 Overedge Finish

Overedge Seam

This is a special machine stitch that looks like a combination of straight


and zigzag stitches. It’s sewn close to or over the raw edge of the seam
allowance.

109
Unit Method of Clothing Construction

In assembling a garment, the unit method of construction is always the


fastest and most effective way. Unit method of clothing construction is an
organized way of assembling a garment. When the garment is cut, each piece is
a unit. There are four units in a polo shirt such as front, back, sleeve and
collar. As work progresses, two or more pieces are combined to form a new
unit.

It is a great advantage on the part of the dressmaker or tailor to know


how parts of the garments are joined together systematically, putting the pieces
part by part. Here are the advantages of unit method construction:

1. It takes less time to construct the garment.


2. Parts of the garments which go together can be easily found
because they are kept together in unit.
3. Each section of the garment is handled less.
4. Transferred marks may be checked carefully and sewing may be
completed on each piece as the pattern is removed.
5. Short period of time may be used to advantage by working on a simple
unit.

Procedure in Assembling a Polo Shirt

1. Sew the back unit.


a. Staystitch curved edges.

2. Sew the front unit


a. Stay stitch curved edges.
b. Attach interfacing (8”) on the
extended facing of the front polo
shirt near the neckline
downward.

3. Prepare the Pocket


a. Fold and stitch upper edge for about ⅛ inch.
b. Fold hem allowance to right side.
c. Stitch around pocket close to seam line.
d. Trim seam and corners, notch covered seam allowances.
e. Turn hem and top stitch.

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4. Attach pocket
a. Fold and press seam allowances in
place.
b. Baste the pocket following the mark.
c. Sew the finished pocket (left side
only).

5. Attach the yoke.


a. Place the back bodice in between the
yokes and sew at least ¼ inch on the
wrong side.

b. Place front bodice (front and back right


sides together) between the yokes and
stitch on the wrong side.

111
c. Pull out the front bodice and check if it is neatly done.

d. Do the same on the other side.

Note: Yoke can also be joined to the front part by putting the front and
back right sides together and rolling so that the upper and the under yoke
enclose the front and back. These are stitched on the seamlines. The enclosed
parts are then pulled from the neckline.

6. Prepare the Collar


a. Apply interfacing on the wrong side of the upper collar.
b. Join upper and under collars, right sides together and baste.
c. Stitch the side seams of the collar, leaving neck edge open.
d. Trim seams and corners. Clip curved edge.
e. Turn collar and press.

112
7. Attach collar
a. Re-cut the neckline to fit the size of collar.
b. On the outside, pin collar (facing side) to the neck edge matching center
back.

c. Sew the collar.

8. Prepare the sleeves.


a. Ease stitch on the sleeve cap.
b. Finish the hem.

9. Attach the finished sleeves.

113
a. Be sure that the re-cut portion is attached to the front armhole
starting from the notch of the yoke to the sleeve cap down the
armpit. Always start on the middle of the sleeve and middle of the
armhole.
b. Continue stitching the back portion of the sleeve starting from the
notches going down to the armpit.

c. Check the sleeve. If smoothly done, sew the other sleeve.

10. Sew the side seams using plain seam starting from the bodice hemline up to
the sleeve hem.

114
10. Fold the hem of the polo shirt.

11. Mark the buttonholes starting from the stand collar 3 ½ inches down and 3
inches thereafter with an approximate of five (5) buttons down.

12. Stitch the buttonholes and attach the buttons.

Note: The last three steps are already part of applying finishing touches.

115
Procedure in Assembling the Short and Long Pants

1. Finish the raw edges of the front and back legs.


2. Sew the back darts.

Fold the center of the dart lines, thread baste or pin baste and dart, and
open if the material is thick.

3. Assemble the back pocket (refer to construction of back pocket on


previous pages)
4. Assemble the continental side pocket (see procedure on the construction
of continental side pocket)
5. Prepare and attach the fly placket.

Right Placket

a. Prepare the right fly placket and facing.

b. Fold the placket, facing 3.4” inward.

c. Stitch the right zipper onto the right placket.

116
d. Attach the facing on the wrong side of the
right placket and stitch 1/8” from the edge.

e. Place the right placket on top of the


right side of the right leg of the pants
and stitch them together ¼” from the
side. Start from the waist down to
snip the placket.

f. Press the facing on the wrong side of


the stitch along the placket seam,
with the placket hold placed in-
between the placket facing the pants.

g. Stitch around the fly placket to flatten.

Left Placket

a. Prepare the left fly placket and the


facing.

117
b. Place the facing on top of the right side
of the left fly and stitch them together
1/8” from the edge. Turn inward and
stitch again on top of the edge.

c. Place the left fly on the top of the right side


of the left leg of the pants. Stitch 1/4” from
the edge to the pocket snip.

d. Turn the left fly on the other side and


stitch the joint to flatten.

e. Separate the left zipper from the right by


unlocking the zipper. Keep the slider.

f. Place the left zipper at the left of the


facing forward; the distance of the
zipper from the upper joint is 1/2”
and the lower joint near the placket
snip, 3/8”. Make 2 rows of stitches.

118
6. Join the side seams

a. Make a snip on the pocket bag and pocket


spacing ½” from the lower part of the pocket
mouth. Do not include the pants.

b. With the right sides of both the front and back


pants facing together, match the edges of the
front pants with the seam line of the side edges
of the back pants. Match the construction marks
of seats, thighs, knees, and bottoms of the front
and back pants. Pin and baste.

c. Stitch together the front and back pants


¼” from the sides of the front pants. Make
double stitching from the waist down to the
knee.

d. Fold the edges of the front pocket bag and fit


into the seam allowance of the back pants
and stitch them together. Press side seams
open.

119
7. Attach the waistband

a. Join the right sides of the waistband


and the pants together at the waist.
Extend the waistband ½” from the left
and right plackets.

b. When joining the waistband of the left


pants, spread open the left fly and
stitch together at the waistline.

c. Bring up the waistband. Fold the


extension inward and stitch ¼”
from fold.

8. Prepare and attach the watch pocket (see


procedure in constructing watch pocket).

120
9. Attach the waistband facing (right leg)

a. Place the waistband facing the top of the


waistband with both right sides facing
together and stitch them together ¼”.

b. Open the facing and waistband seam and


understitch the seam at waistband.

c. Mark the width of the waistband of


both the left and right pants.

d. Attach the hook and eye at the center of


the waistband. Attach a small piece of
coco under the waistband to strengthen
the attachment of hook and eye.

e. Fold the waistband backward. Close


the corner of the waistband at the
placket either diagonally or rounded.
Trim the allowance according to the
shape.

121
f. Turn the facing inward. Press the
waistband mark to obtain its width.
Baste diagonally for the neat and flat
waistband.
g. Close the waistband facing the pants
together by stitching along the waist
seam. Start stitching from the upper
corner of the right waistband up to the
end of the back pants.

10. Attach the waistband facing (left leg)

a. Fold the facing horizontally at the


middle.

b. Place the waistband facing on the top of


the waistband. Place one of the folded
facings along the placket seam of the
front pants. Mark the part of facing that
is along the side seam of the pants. Sew
a small dart in this part. Start sewing
from the open edge of the facing, going
toward the fold.

c. Place the facing back on the top of the left


waistband with the open end aligned with
the placket seam and the dart with the
side seam. Stitch together the facing and
the waistband ¼” from the edges of the
waistband.

d. Bring up the facing and turn the seam


allowance toward the waistband.
Undertstitch the seam allowance close
to the seam.

122
e. Measure the width of the waistband,
starting from the waist seam upward
usually 1 ½” and mark horizontally
on the waistband. Fold waistband
along this mark after the hook is
attached.

f. Attach the hook at the left end of the


waistband, 3/8” away from the seam of
the fly and the pants. Reinforce with the
piece of coco under the hook before the
lock is attached.

g. Turn the fly and waistband outward and


stitch the upper waistband along the
mark at the waistband.

h. Turn the placket inward and baste the


waistband diagonally.

i. Close the placket by stitching it in place,


starting from the waist seam and
extending the stitches down the snip.
Closing stitches are about 1 1/2” wide
and the pocket hold is sewn together
with the placket facing.

123
11. Join the in-seams of the pants

a. With the right side of both the front and


back pants facing together, place the
edges of the front pants parallel to the
back pants construction mark. Match the
seat, thigh, knees and bottom stitch
them together ¼” from the edge of the
front pants. Stitch twice to strengthen
the joint.

b. Repeat the same procedure with the other pants leg.

12. Join the right and left legs of the pants

a. Turn out right leg of the pants.

b. With the left leg on the right side, insert


the left fly inside the right leg. Match the
front and back waistband together on the
front and back. Check ½ of the waist
measurement starting from the hook up to
the back waistband. Mark this and match
the snips together.

c. Stitch the crotches together,


starting from the back waistband
up to the placket snip. Double
stitch the joint to reinforce.

124
d. Place the zipper slider back. Check the
left and right waistbands are even at the
back. Apply closing stitches at the bottom
of the zipper.

e. Sew together the left and right fly plackets by


hand.

f. Fold the back seam allowances inward and


baste diagonally or overcast the fold.

g. Stitch the back waistband seam


allowances in place onto the waistband
facing.

h. Apply the hand bar tacks at the snip of the


fly plackets.

125
13. Prepare and attach the belt carriers.

a. Prepare the material for 6 belt


carriers with an 18” length and 12”
width.

b. Fold the edges on both sides


horizontally.

c. Fold in the carrier horizontally the


folded edges matching together.
Stitch together close to the edges.

d. Topstitch on the folded edge.


e. Divide into six belt carriers or
3” per belt carriers.

f. Mark the locations of the belt carriers on the waistband; the front and
back carriers must be along the crease lines and the other 2 along the
outside seams.

g. Place the belt carrier ¼” away from the top


to bottom of the waistband and stitch.

h. Bring up the belt carrier to cover the first


stitches and stitch again on the top ¼”
from the previous stitches.

126
i. Bring down the belt carrier and stitch the
lower end onto the waistband. Lower the
belt carrier a little to cover the previous
stitches and stitch on top ¼” from the
seam.

j. Follow the same procedure with the rest


of the belt carriers.

LET US REMEMBER

In assembling polo shirt and long pants, always follow the


correct procedure in order to save time and ensure quality output.

SELF CHECK

Directions: Answer the given questions below.


1. What is the importance of using an interfacing on standing collar?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________
2. Why is reinforcement or a piece of fabric sewn at the opening of the
bound pocket?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________.
3. What is the significance of attaching first the sleeves to the armhole of a
polo shirt before joining the side seams?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
____________________________________________________________________.

127
LET US APPLY WHAT YOU HAVE LEARNED

Task: Assemble Garment

1. Assemble the following garments


a. men’s polo with plain sleeve, standing collar or sports collar
and with patch pocket.
b. short pants.
c. long pants with slide side pocket
2. Evaluate performance and output using the rubric below.

Scoring Rubrics for a Finished Polo

PERFORMANCE INDICATOR
ASSESSMENT
CRITERIA Moderately Not
Competent Competent Competent SCORE
(5) (3) (1)
A. Construction Neatly done or Neatly done or Not neatly
Processes prepared; correctly prepared but done or
(50%) attached with some prepared and
defects incorrectly
attached
 Pocket
 Yoke
 Collar
 Sleeves
 Seams
B. Fitting (30%) Well-fitted Slightly fitted Not fitted at all
 Neckline
 Sleeves
 Shoulder
 Armhole
 Chest
C. Work Habits Most of the time Sometimes Not at all
(10%)
Organized, clean
and systematic
Handled tools and
equipment properly
D. Completion Finished ahead of Finished on Late
(10%) time time submission
Work within the
time target
TOTAL SCORE

128
Scoring Rubrics for a Finished Short and Long Pants

PERFORMANCE INDICATOR
ASSESSMENT
CRITERIA Moderately Not
Competent Competent Competent SCORE
(5) (3) (1)
B. Construction Neatly done or Neatly done or Not neatly
Processes prepared; correctly prepared but done or
(50%) attached with some prepared and
defects incorrectly
attached
 Dart
 Pocket
 Placket
 Inseams
 Side seams
 Crotch seam
 Waistband
 Belt Carrier
B. Fitting (30%) Well-fitted Slightly fitted Not fitted at all
 Waistline
 Crotch
 Hip
C. Work Habits Most of the time Sometimes Not at all
(10%)
Organized, clean
and systematic
Handled tools and
equipment properly
D. Completion Finished ahead of Finished on Late
(10%) time time submission
Work within the
time target
TOTAL SCORE :

RESOURCES:

Sewing Tools:
Shears/scissors Sewing Equipment
Pin cushion Sewing machine
Seam ripper Cutting/working Table
Ironing Board
Sewing Supplies Flat iron
Fasteners Materials
Cut Materials of Projects Textbook/Learning Materials
Threads
Hand/Machine Needles
Pins

129
LESSON 3

ALTERING COMPLETED GARMENT

INTRODUCTION

The lesson deals with pattern adjustments or alteration in accordance


with garment design and style specification. This also provides pointers in
altering a garment and identifying fitting problems.

ASSESSMENT CRITERIA

1. Completed garments are fitted to client’s satisfaction.


2. Men’s apparel alterations are accomplished according to client’s
specifications

DEFINITION OF TERMS

 Alter - to make changes on completed garment so that it


corresponds to body measurement.
 Closure - article that is used to close an opening, like
buttons, snapper and zipper.
 Crease-a folded line pressed into a material.
 Glide - to move along smoothly, evenly and easily on a
surface.
 Grain - the lengthwise or crosswise yarns or threads in a
woven fabric area.
 Sag - to sink or bend downwards and away from usual
position.
 Seat- hips
 Stride-to set with leg on each side of something.

INFORMATION SHEET 3.3

Clothing alterations are necessary to fit a garment to a person's body and


improve its quality. Some alterations that could be done are adjusting the parts
of a garment such as hem, waist and hips and replacing a broken zipper,
repairing torn or ripped seams. Specific training is required to master the
techniques in altering a garment. For a start, one should know the standards
for finished garments.

130
Standards for a Polo Shirt

A well constructed polo shirt has the following characteristics:

Garment Parts Standards


Neckline  Properly done and laid flat over the shoulder.
Shoulder  Flat and balance.
Seam  Appropriate and straight.
Collars  Edges are properly sewn.
 Curves are smoothly done.
 Pointed edges are neatly finished and have the same
size and shape.
 Collar is smoothly finished.
Sleeve  The sleeve is well rounded over the sleeve cap.
 The sleeve is comfortable at the armhole.
 Freedom of movement is felt on the armhole.
Closures  Properly attached.

Standards for Short and Long Pants

To obtain correct fitting for pants, the following standards should be met:

1. The front creases, or lengthwise grainlines, and the side seams hang
perpendicular to the floor.
2. The pants fit smoothly across abdomen and seat areas.
3. There are no diagonal wrinkles – crosswise grain is kept level at hips
and knees.
4. The crotch is high enough to prevent sagging of the seat, but low
enough for comfort.
5. The legs are balanced and easy.
6. The waistline is at the normal location and does not glide downward
in the back when the wearer is seated.

Factors in Evaluating Finished Garment

1. Ease Is the garment comfortable around the armhole, neckline and


bodice?

2. Grain Is the garment cut on the lengthwise grain?

3. Line Are the structural lines like dart, pocket, pleats, collar side
seam, armhole, neckline and hemline properly made?

4. Balance Are the parts of the garment equally made with equilibrium?
Are the collar tips the same? How about the pockets? The
sleeves?

5. Set Are the parts properly attached like the sleeves, the collar, the
waistband and pockets?

131
Fitting Chart for Trousers

Below are some fitting problems on pants and how to remedy them.

1. Generally too wide Solution


Fabric hangs in vertical folds Take in side seams to give a smooth
throughout. but comfortable fit and reduce
waistband accordingly. Do not alter
inside leg seams

2. Generally too narrow Solution


Fabric pulls into horizontal folds at Let out both inside and outside leg
waist, hips and thighs. seams along entire length to give a
smooth fit. Release waist darts and
tucks a little if necessary and adjust
waistband.

132
3. Too wide across back Solution
The fabric hangs loose, diagonal Lower waistline, lengthen darts and
folds across the seat. take in back side seams only. If
necessary, take in at center back seam
by a maximum of 1cm/½in.

4. Too long from waist to crotch Solution


Fabric falls in loose wrinkles from Remove waistband and lift trousers to
crotch down onto upper leg at back correct position, then reduce size of
and front. waist by taking in at side seams, darts
and tucks if necessary. If this is not
sufficient, lift crotch seam by a
maximum of 1cm/½in as well. Check
fit finally with seam allowances
snipped around curve and pressed flat.

133
5. Too short from waist to crotch Solution
Fabric pulls into tight folds from Remove waistband and lower trousers
crotch towards hips on both back to correct position, increasing size of
and front. waist by letting out side seams, darts
and tucks. Re-cut the crotch seam in a
lower position if necessary, but this
will reduce leg length, so check
whether there is surplus length before
making the alteration.

6. Round tummy Solution


The fabric pulls into horizontal folds Let out darts, tucks and front side
just below the waistline. Small seam allowances and raise waist seam
wrinkles from crotch toward side line to increase width and depth.
seams show on front only. Shorten darts if necessary.

134
7. Round bottom Solution
Fabric pulls into horizontal folds Let out upper 10-15cm/4-6in of inside
across back only. Side seams drag leg seams. Raise waistline in back only
towards back of garment. and shorten darts. Let out the back
side seam allowance only.

8. Sway back Solution


Horizontal wrinkles form just below Lower waist seam line on back only
waistband. and increase width of darts
accordingly. Alter angle of darts. If this
does not correct problem, take four
darts instead of two, distributing
excess fabric equally.

135
9. Large thighs Solution
Horizontal and diagonal wrinkles Let out back and front side seam
form below hip level and across side allowances from hip to upper thigh.
seams

Alteration Procedure for a Pair of Long Pants

A. Lengthening

Make pants legs longer by ripping


out the seams in the hems around the
cuff at the base of the leg. Have the
owner wear the pants, determine where
the correct length should be, and mark
this length with the chalk. Pin it in place
all around the cuff, with the extra
material folded inside the pant leg. Iron
the fold then sew it around the bottom of
the pant leg. Cut off any excess fabric.

B. Shortening

To shorten the legs of pants, have the


owner put them on, then fold the extra material
inside the pant leg and pin it into place. Iron
the fold and sew the hem around the cuff. Cut
off extra material. The circumference of the
pants leg can also be tightened by ripping the
out-seam that runs along the outside of the leg,
pinning it so that it fits more tightly along the
leg, and sew again the seam to give a skinnier,
more closely fitting pants leg.

136
C. Decreasing the size of waist

Decrease the size of the waist by having


the owner put the pants on inside out. Pull the
extra waist material up in a fold at the back of
the pants or on the sides, whichever works
best with the creases of the pants. Pin the fold
in place, and iron it for a better appearance.
Sew it tightly with multiple passes to ensure a
tight fit. If the pants will be tightened
considerably, you may have to rip open the
seams and cut out some of the material so
that the fabric does not gather around the
waist.

LET US REMEMBER

 Knowledge on the standards of garments enables one to identify


fitting problems.

 Garment alteration is a challenging part of garment construction.


Knowing how to alter a garment contributes to client’s satisfaction.

SELF CHECK

Directions: Answer the following questions briefly.

1. When can you say that a garment is well-fitted?


____________________________________________________________________
____________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________
2. Why are alterations made on garments?
____________________________________________________________________
____________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________
3. What if you failed to do the necessary alterations?
____________________________________________________________________
____________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________

137
LET US APPLY WHAT YOU HAVE LEARNED

Task: Evaluate and Alter Completed Garment


1. Evaluate completed garment using the Evaluation Form below. Put a
check mark if the corresponding standard is met, x if not.

Garment Parts Ease Grain Line Balance Set


A. Polo Shirt
 Neckline
 Shoulder
 Chest
 Collars
 Sleeve
 Pocket
 Plackets
 Hem
B. Short/Long Pants
 Waistband
 Hipline
 Crotch
 Leg
 Bottom/Hem
 Pocket
 Placket

2. Perform the necessary alterations.


3. Assess output using the evaluation sheet below.

EVALUATION SHEET IN ALTERING COMPLETED GARMENT

Assessment Criteria C MC NC
1. Appropriate tool was used.
2. Fitting problem was identified.
3. Alterations/modifications were done correctly.
4. Alterations were completed.
5. Safety habits were observed.
6. Work was completed on time.

Legend: C- Competent MC- Moderately Competent NC- Not yet Competent

Final Assessment: _________________________

Assessed by: _______________________________________

138
RESOURCES:

Sewing Tools:
Shears/scissors
Pin cushion
Seam ripper

Materials
Textbook/Learning Materials

Sewing Supplies
Fasteners
Cut Materials of Projects
Threads
Hand/Machine Needles
Pins

Sewing Equipment
Sewing machine
Cutting/working Table
Ironing Board
Flat iron

139
SELF CHECK

I. Multiple Choice. Write the letter of the correct answer in your quiz notebook.

1. It is a part of the garment which covers the arm but shows no fullness.
a. collar
b. placket
c. plain sleeve
d. pocket
2. This is known as a two-piece collar.
a. Chinese collar
b. executive collar
c. peter pan collar
d. sports collar
3. It is an organized way of assembling a garment.
a. laying out
b. pressing
c. pattern drafting
d. unit method of construction
4. It is a small bag or pouch attached to a garment used to hold for money,
handkerchiefs or wallet.
a. placket
b. pocket
c. sleeves
d. zipper
5. This is known as the pocket proper.
a. inner facing
b. pocket bag
c. pocket piece
d. watch pocket
6. This is the cause of difficulty if the garment shows some wrinkles below
the back hip.
a. large abdomen and slightly wide crotch
b. low neckline
c. narrow shoulder
d. tight neckline
7. This is a factor to consider in judging a well- fitted garment.
a. collar
b. design
c. ease
d. fabric
8. One of these is a good characteristic of a well- fitted polo.
a. collar tips are unequal
b. neckline is flat over the shoulder
c. seams are smooth
d. waistline is at normal location
9. This is the cause of the difficulty of the garment which appears very
strained and tight across the hips.
a. large abdomen
b. large hips
c. sloping shoulders
d. square shoulders

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10. It is an article that is used to close an opening like buttons, snaps, and
zipper.
a. closure
b. layout
c. pocket
d. sleeves
11. When a garment has wrinkles which radiate from the abdomen area of a
diagonal line into the back part of a garment, what factor of a well done
garment is violated?
e. ease
f. balance
g. line
h. set
12. This seam finish is perfect for fabrics that ravel easily.
a. clean finish
b. plain seam
c. overcasted
d. overedging
13. It is an article that is attached to the neckline of a garment.
a. collar
b. placket
c. pocket
d. sleeve
14. It is a seam within a seam.
a. French seam
b. lapped seam
c. overcasted open seam
d. zigzag seam
15. It is a lengthwise or crosswise yarn of threads in a woven fabric.
a. area
b. grain
c. line
d. layout

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MODULE 4

QUALIFICATION TITLE : TAILORING NC II

UNIT OF COMPETINCY : APPLY FINISHING TOUCHES ON MEN’S


CASUAL APPAREL

MODULE TITLE : APPLYING FINISHING TOUCHES ON


MEN’S CASUAL APPAREL

NOMINAL DURATION : 40 HOURS

TAILORING NC II

142
MODULE INTRODUCTION

The module covers the knowledge, skills and attitudes required in


applying finishing touches such as attaching the needed accessories, trimming
of excess threads, pressing and packaging the finished garments

EXPECTED OUTCOME

At the end of this module, you should be able to:


1. apply finishing touches on men’s casual apparel;
2. trim excess threads;
3. press finished garments; and
4. pack the finished garment.

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PRETEST
Multiple Choice: Write the letter of the correct answer in your quiz notebook.
1. Blanket tack is a type of _____________.
a. arrowheads
b. bar tack
c. buttonhole
d. French tack
2. The process of removing creases and wrinkles to a finished garment.
a. creasing
b. finishing
c. pressing
d. pounding
3. Anything that protects, embellishes, or wraps a product.
a. bundle
b. cargo
c. package
d. stocks
4. An informal washable shirt with short sleeves refers to __________.
a. executive polo
b. polo barong
c. polo jacket
d. polo shirt
5. Touches means to modify by adding fine details on a finished __.
a. accessories
b. appliqué
c. embroidery
d. garment
6. Pressing is done when needed after the garment is ________________.
a. completed
b. constructed
c. cut
d. sewn
7. A barrier that protects your fabric from direct contact with the hot iron.
a. needle board
b. pressing cloth
c. seam roll
d. sleeve board
8. A garment label information like 90% cotton, 10% polyester.
a. the amount and fiber content
b. brand and trade mark
c. care instruction
d. name of the manufacturer
9. The final set of the operation and process in sewing the garment.
a. finishing
b. packing
c. pressing
d. tacking
10. Georgette is an example of __________ fabric.
a. cotton
b. linen
c. silk
d. wool

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11. It is made of bone, metal, or glass and it is a common closure on men’s
garments.
a. button
b. hook and eye
c. snap fastener
d. zipper
12. Apparel means __________.
a. accessories
b. clothing
c. decoration
d. sewing
13. The following are the characteristics of a good hemming except ________.
a. Stitches are unevenly distributed
b. Stitches are flat
c. Stitches are even in width
d. There are no bulks or wrinkles
14. It is done by using back and forth motion of an iron on the lengthwise
grain of the fabric.
a. cutting
b. ironing
c. pressing
d. washing
15. A kind of fastener applied to the placket of men’s pants is ____________.
a. button
b. hook and eye
c. snap fastener
d. zipper
16. Ironing/Pressing tool which should be smooth and well-padded.
a. ironing board
b. needle board
c. pressing cloth
d. sleeve board
17. A strip of paper showing an inscription that indicates ownership is _____.
a. label
b. order slip
c. price
d. wrap
18. A kind of special fabric that should not be ironed is __________.
a. knitted fabric
b. laminated fabric
c. pile fabric
d. woven fabric
19. The stitches that hold folded edge like hem and facing is __________.
a. basting
b. blanket stitch
c. hemming
d. herring bone
20. This means to modify by applying fine details in finished garments.
a. Apply finishing touches
b. Hem the garment
c. Press the garment
d. tacks

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LESSON 1

APPLYING FINISHING TOUCHES ON


MEN’S CASUAL APPAREL

INTRODUCTION

The lesson deals with the application of finishing touches such as


hemming and attaching buttons and other accessories.

ASSESSMENT CRITERIA

1. Finishing touches such as buttons and other closures are applied in


accordance with the garments design or style specifications.
2. Hem and sleeve allowances are folded, pinned, and sewn in accordance
with the stitch or hem specification.

DEFINITION OF TERMS

 Buttonhole- hole or slit through which a button is


passed and by which it is secured.
 Finishing touches - fine details applied on finished
garments.
 Hem- the edge of a garment.
 Strain- subject to change in form or to stretch.
 Tack- a stitch used to fasten seams.

INFORMATION SHEET 4.1

Finishing Touches for Men’s Apparel

One of the important steps in constructing a garment is the application of


finishing touches. These include sewing of tacks, closures, topstitching,
hemming, removing thread ends, pressing and packaging the completed
garment. These are done to make completed garment look more professional.

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 Topstitching

Topstitching while holding layers of fabric in place


and preventing garment parts from shifting when worn
adds more professional look to garments. It is done on
the right side edge of the collar, waistband, sleeves and
hem. To keep the row of stitches straight, use the edge of
the presser foot as a guide.

 Garment Tacks

Garment tacks are series of hand or machine stitches done to reinforce


areas of strain on a garment such as pocket openings and bottom of a fly. The
kinds of garment tacks are:

1. French tacks. These are like fine cords, and usually link a free-hanging to
the main hem to prevent the hem from swiveling around or riding up. The
tacks are sewn between the two hems on the inside so that they will not be
visible. There are several types of French tacks:

a. blanket – stitch tack

b. thread chain tack - is made by hand


from chain of loops.

c. machine chain tack - uses machine


straight stitch.

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2. Bar tacks. These short, straight rows of reinforcing stitches are used to
strengthen points of strain on a garment, and can be made by hand or
machine. Bar tacks are used across two adjoining areas of fabric that may
be strained or split in. There are two types of bar tacks:

a. Hand stitched bar tacks used for


reinforcing areas of stress on a garment
such as pocket openings, bottom of a
fly opening or buttonholes

b. Machine bar tacks consists of a series


of close-set zigzag stitches (machine)
usually 1/16"-1/8" in width and 1/4"-
3/8" in length. In denim jeans, it is
often in a contrasting color, such as
orange or white.

c. Arrowheads. These small triangular


tacks are worked by hand or machine
across a seam to strengthen it at a
point of potential strain. It is best to
use a matching color thread while a
thick thread like buttonhole twist can
be effective for a hand stitched
arrowhead.

 Hemming

A hem is the edge of a garment especially at the bottom. The process of


finishing the hem is called hemming. The following are the different kinds of
hemming stitches that you can use:

1. Vertical hemstitch. A hemstitch


that works from right to left. It is
used for stitching along the inside
edges of collars and cuffs.

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2. Slanting Hemstitch. This stitch
is less stable than vertical
hemstitch but is quicker to work.
Form the stitches in the same
way as vertical hemstitch.

3. Herringbone Stitch or Catch


Stitch. This is used for joining
the edges of facing or interfacing
to the inside of garment. This is
perfect on pants hem.

4. Blind Hemming Stitch. It is


done under an edge or through a
folded edge. It can be used when
hemming heavy fabrics showing
on the right side of the garment.

5. Slipstitch. This stitch is used to


attach a folded edge to another
fabric layer.

6. Blind Herringbone Stitch. It


works like hemming stitch from
left to right of the garment. Work
the herringbone stitches between
the inside of the garment hem and
the underneath fabric.

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Steps in Hemming

One of the most important techniques in sewing lies on finishing the


hem. Here are the steps in sewing the hem of a garment:

1. Mark the hem line. Mark the desired


length with the tape measure using tailor’s
chalk or pins.
2. Fold on hem line. Turn hem to the wrong
side along marked line, matching the
seam lines.

3. Mark the hem depth. Turn wrong side


out on a flat surface so that you can
work from the hem side. Set the hem
gauge for the desired hem depth plus ½
inch for finishing.

4. Finish a hem. Insert pin at right angle to


the hem edge, matching seam lines.
Hand-finished with an inside blind-
hemming stitch. Machine stitching along
hem edge is also satisfactory.

 Making Worked Buttonholes

Buttonholes can be sewn by hand or by machine. Whichever you


choose, accuracy is important when marking the buttonholes. The following
are the steps in making hand worked buttonhole:

a. Mark the position of the buttonhole


indicating its length.
b. Using small stitches, stitch about
1/16 inch from the mark.
c. Starting at the center, slash
buttonhole on center mark to ends.
Overcast the edges.
d. Work the buttonhole stitch over the
edges, working from right to left.

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e. Start at the end and insert needle into slit bringing it out below stitching.
Bring thread from the needle eye around and under needle point from
right to left.
f. Draw needle up to form a purl on the edge. Continue placing stitches
close together so loops will cover edge.
g. At end towards garments edge, form a fan as shown, keeping the
center stitch of the fan in line with the cut.
h. Make a bar on both ends taking several stitches over the threads and
through the garments cloth.

Note: Buttonholes for men’s polo are done on the left side. Vertical buttonholes
are used since it is a loose fitting garment.

 Attaching Flat Buttons

A. Steps in Marking the Position of Buttons

1. Position the part where buttonholes are located over the area where the
buttons will be sewn.
2. Mark the center of buttonhole with a dot using a pencil.

B. Steps in Attaching Flat Buttons

1. Thread the needle with double strands. Use a thread color that matches
the color of your garment.
2. Position the button.
3. Bring the needle up and down through the holes in the button at least
three times.
4. Finally, fasten the thread on the wrong side.

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Attaching Hook and Bar on Pants

Hook and bar is a no-sew heavy duty fastener for pants. If you want to
use this kind of fastener, attach them before finishing the waistband. To
attach:

1. Mark the position of the hook on the top edge of the waistband. Mark the
position of the bar on the other edge. Make sure they match together.
2. Cut small slits on the markings and allow the hook and bar prongs to
pass through the slot.
3. Fasten the hook and bar prongs onto the backing pieces by bending them
using a small hammer.

LET US REMEMBER

 Knowing how to apply finishing touches properly contributes to a


well constructed garment and makes it look professional.

SELF CHECK
Multiple Choice. Read and understand the questions below and write the
correct answers in your quiz notebook.

1. The final set of operation and process in sewing the garment is __________.
a. finishing c. pressing
b. packing d. tack
2. Which of the following is the function of garment tack?
a. decorate c. reinforce opening
b. finish d. all of the given
3. Which of the following kinds of hemming stitch is best on pants?
a. blind c. slanting
b. catch d. vertical
4. The following are characteristics of a good hemming EXCEPT __________.
a. conspicuous on the c. even in width
right side d. no bulk or wrinkle
b. stitches are flat
5. Buttonholes for men’s polo are done on the _______________ side.
a. left c. wrong
b. right d. left or right

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II. Answer the given questions below:

1. Why do you apply bar tack pocket opening and fly placket?
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________

2. What is the best hemming stitch for men’s wear? Why?


______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________

3. Which is better, a worked buttonhole or a machine buttonhole? Why?


______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________

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LET US APPLY WHAT YOU HAVE LEARNED

Task 1

Activity title: Making Hand worked Buttonhole (Trial)


Resources: Piece of cloth (6 ”x 8 ”) preferably cotton
Sewing thread, hand needle
Scissors

Instruction:
1. Individual work to be finished within 15 minutes.
2. Let your classmate evaluate the finished product.
3. Submit score sheet and finished product.

Put a check (  ) after each item Yes No


Did I follow the directions correctly?
Were the stitches flat and neat?
Were the stitches evenly distributed?
Were there no bulks and wrinkles?
Did I practice good work habits and safety precautions?
Did I finish the activity within the allotted time?

Task2-Apply Finishing Touches on Completed Garment


1. Perform the following:
a. Sew tacks.
b. Hem the garment.
c. Attach fasteners.
2. Assess output using the evaluation sheet below.

EVALUATION SHEET FOR APPLYING FINISHING TOUCHES


ASSESSMENT CRITERIA C NC
1. Correct tools and materials were used.
2. Finishing touches such as tacks, buttons and other
closures were correctly applied in accordance with
the garments design or style specifications.
3. Hem and sleeve allowances were folded, pinned, and
sewn properly.
4. Safety habits were observed.
5. Work was finished on time.

Final Assessment: ________________________________

Assessed by: _________________________________

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RESOURCES:

Tools: Materials:
1. hand needle 1. piece of cloth
2. pin cushion 2. sewing thread
3. scissors 3. buttons
4. tape measure 4. zipper
5. hook and eye
6. snap fastener

155
LESSON 2

TRIMMING EXCESS THREADS ON


MEN’S CASUAL APPAREL

INTRODUCTION

The lesson deals with trimming excess threads on men’s garments in


accordance with the workplace quality standards. It also includes preparation
of trimming tools based on work specifications.

ASSESSMENT CRITERIA

1. Trimming tools are prepared in accordance with the work specifications.


2. Garments are trimmed of excess threads, reversed, and managed in
accordance with the workplace quality standards.

DEFINITION OF TERMS

 Clip – to trim or cut with scissors or shears.


 Excess – the part that is too much.
 Snip – to cut with a quick stroke with a pair of scissors.
 Trim– to make neat by cutting away parts.

INFORMATION SHEET 4.2

Trimming Tools

A quality sewn garment means an accomplished project that you can be


proud of. After all construction processes have been done, assuring quality can
be best achieved by checking the parts of the garments for excess threads. In
order to succeed in this task you must be familiar with the different tools used
in trimming excess threads on finished garments. Here are the trimming tools
that you can use:

1. Trimming scissors – five to six inches long with finely tapered blades with
one pointed and one rounded tip used for clipping excess threads.

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2. Embroidery Scissors- 3 ½”-5” long, ideal for clipping and notching,
trimming fabric from delicate embroidery and snipping threads.

3. Thread clippers – 4.5” long, are spring-action clippers-with or without


finger loop, having short blades for cutting or snipping thread tails quickly.

Care Tips:

1. Never use trimming tools on paper or other non-fabric materials.


2. Wipe scissors clean with a dry cloth after each use to remove fibers and
dust.
3. Occasionally oil the pivot screw. After oiling, open and close the blades a
few times, then wipe with a soft cloth.
4. Never force a cut. It may damage your scissors permanently.
5. Store your scissors in a box after using.

Trimming Techniques for Men’s Apparel

 Procedure in Trimming Excess Threads on a Polo Shirt

1. Reverse the polo shirt to the wrong side.


2. Check for hanging threads on garment parts.
3. Cut excess thread from top to bottom.
a. collar
b. shoulder seam
c. armhole seams
d. sleeve hems
e. bottom hem
4. Reverse the polo shirt right out and trim excess threads on:
d. front placket
e. buttonholes
f. buttons
g. pockets
h. bottom hem

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 Procedure in Trimming Excess Threads on the Long and Short Pants

1. Reverse pants wrong side out.


2. Check for hanging threads.
3. Trim excess threads from top to bottom.
a. waistband
b. hook and eye
c. placket
d. zipper attachment
e. inseams
f. out seams
g. bottom hem
4. Reverse shorts/pants right side out.
a. waistband
b. zipper placket
c. side seams
d. pocket mount
e. bottom hem

Tip: When trimming excess threads on finished garments, be sure that no part of
the garment overlaps the other to avoid damage.

LET US REMEMBER

Trimming excess threads on a completed garment makes it look neat


and tidy and gives a truly professional finish.

158
SELF CHECK

I. Multiple Choice: Choose the letter of the best answer and write your answer in
your quiz notebook.

a. A trimming device with blades one pointed and the other rounded.
a. buttonhole scissors
b. embroidery scissors
c. paper scissors
d. trimming scissors
2. “To make neat by cutting away parts”, means to ______________.
a. clip
b. grade
c. slash
d. trim
3. After trimming threads on the wrong side of the polo shirt, the next step
is to ______________________.
a. check for hanging threads.
b. cut excess thread.
c. reverse the polo shirt right side out.
d. stitch bottom hem.

4. Trimming scissors belongs to ______________ tools.


a. cutting
b. marking
c. measuring
d. sewing

5. The correct way of trimming excess threads in the garment starts from
_________________.
a. back to front.
b. bottom to top.
c. front to back.
d. top to bottom.

II. Answer the given questions below:

1. What is the purpose of cutting hanging threads?


_____________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________
2. Why do you have to use of proper tools for trimming excess threads in
completed garments?
________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________
3. How do you take care of your trimming tools?
_____________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________

159
LET US APPLY WHAT YOU HAVE LEARNED

Task: Trim Excess Thread

1. Trim excess threads on your completed garments:


b. Polo Shirt
c. Short Pants
d. Long Pants

2. Evaluate your performance using the evaluation sheet below.

EVALUATION SHEET FOR TRIMMING EXCESS THREADS

Assessment Criteria C NC
1. Appropriate trimming tools were prepared and
correctly used.
2. Garments were reversed and hung in accordance
with the workplace quality standard.
3. Garments were properly trimmed of excess threads.

4. Safety habits were observed.

5. Work completed on time.

Legend: C- competent NC- not yet competent

Final Assessment: ____________________________

Assessed by: ________________________________________

RESOURCES:

Trimming tools
Polo Shirt
Short Pants
Long Pants

160
LESSON 3

PRESSING THE FINISHED GARMENTS

INTRODUCTION

The lesson deals with the procedure and techniques on how to press
completed garment. It also discusses the pressing equipment and how to set its
temperature in accordance with the product requirements, fabric specifications
and procedure. Topics on faults, spots and marks and appropriate actions are
also included.

ASSESSMENT CRITERIA

1. Fabrics and pressing equipment are prepared according to the standard


operating procedure.
2. Pressing equipment temperature setting is regulated in accordance with
fabric types.
3. Faults, spots, and marks are identified, heat pressure is applied,
pressing is sequenced and appropriate actions are taken in accordance
with workplace standards.

DEFINITION OF TERMS

 Damp –slightly wet.


 Lapel – the part of the front of a coat attached to the collar
which is folded up.
 Lint –the soft down of raveled or scraped linen.
 Pile – end of yarns extending above the surface of the fabric.
 Setting – substance added to the fabric to improve its
appearance.

INFORMATION SHEET 4.3

Pressing Tools and Equipment

Good pressing is essential in good construction. Pressing equipment if


used correctly aid in achieving flat and smooth seams and edges and
sharpening garment creases.

161
The following are the pressing tools and equipment:

1. Dry iron. It has a heat control mechanism


which maintains the correct temperature
for each fabric. Irons are available with
aluminum or stainless steel soleplates. The
soleplates of the iron should be kept
smooth and clean.

2. Steam iron. This is convenient for


pressing many garments. It is either dry or
with water. The iron will last longer and
will give better service if only distilled water
is used and if it is always emptied before
storing. The steam iron should never be
stored on its soleplate because moisture
from the iron causes corrosion.

3. Ironing board. An ironing board


should be smooth and well
padded. It should stand firmly at
the correct height for efficient
work. It is an adjustable board or
leg slides to adjust height for a
standing and sitting positions.

4. Press cloth. This is a piece of fabric used


when applying more heat than you usually
would when ironing a fabric. Fabric used for
pressing cloth should be white or colorfast
and washed freely.

5. Point presser/Pounding block. The point


presser also called a clapper is a pressing
tool made of hardwood and used for
pressing open seams in corners and
points. The tool also helps to pound
creases into a heavy fabric after steaming.
The top of the tool is used to help press
collar seams and points, thus achieving a
flat finish and sharp edges.

6. Sleeve board. This is a small ironing


board shaped and padded like a large one.
The narrow board is used for pressing
seams and narrow garment section and
the wide board is used for long and
straight seam.

162
7. Needle board. It is used beneath the pile of
velvet and corduroy. It prevents the pile from
becoming matted during pressing.

8. Pressing cushion. This is used when pressing darts and curved seam.
The following are the types of pressing cushion:

a. Seam roll. The seam roll is


a cushion with a cylindrical
shape used to press seams
open. The seam roll has a
solid color cotton side and a
plaid side like the tailor’s
ham. The bulk of the seam roll never
touches the iron, which is part of its
design, so that it is the seam that is
touched for pressing. This is helpful in
pressing curves and seams that are in a
tube area without creasing another
area of the garments.

b. Pressing Mitt. A cushion for pressing


darts and curved seams.

c. Tailor’s Ham. The tailor’s ham


really does look like a ham, but is
actually a cushion used for pressing
darts and to help shape the curves
of collars, shoulders and sleeve
caps. The solid side is made of
cotton and the plaid side is
generally made of wool and stuffed
with sawdust, which is what makes
the ham firm.

Pressing Techniques

Heat and pressure from an iron are


combined with moisture in the clothing to
smooth it. Creases and wrinkles are
flattened. These factors must be controlled
to ensure professional result and to
protect your fabric.

163
The following are the pointers to consider when pressing garments:

1. Check the heat settings on your iron, and test press the fabric.
2. While pressing keep the weight of the iron in your hand.
3. Exert light pressure on the fabric and never rest the full weight of the
iron on the fabric.
4. To avoid damage to your fabric use a pressing cloth when it is necessary
to press on the wrong side.
5. For fabrics that require additional moisture, use water sprayer when
ironing.

Pressing Suggestions for Specific Fabrics

Pressing
Fabric Type Pressing Directions
Temperature
A. COTTON
Brushed cotton Hot iron Press on wrong side
Cheesecloth Warm iron Press on wrong side
Corduroy Hot iron Press on top of towel, use towel
Cotton velvet Warm iron Use a pressing cloth
Denim Hot iron Press while damp
Jersey Hot iron Use a damp cloth
Lace Warm iron Use a pressing cloth
Poplin Use a pressing cloth
Seersucker Needs no pressing
Voile Cool iron Press on wrong side while damp

B. LINEN
Handkerchief linen Warm iron Press on the wrong side while damp
Suiting linen Hot iron Press on the wrong side while damp

C. SILK
Chiffon Cool iron Do not use steam
Crepe de chine Cool iron Use a pressing cloth
Georgette Warm iron Do not use a steam
Organza Cool iron Press on wrong side
Shantung Cool iron Press on wrong side
Silk satin Warm iron Press on wrong side

D. WOOLEN
Flannel Warm iron Press on wrong side
Gabardine Warm iron Press on wrong side using damp
cloth
Crepe Warm iron Press on wrong side

164
Pressing Special Fabrics

1. The yarns of pile fabrics should not be flattened when pressing. Lay the
fabric pile wrong side up over the towel and press lightly.
2. Laminated fabrics need very little pressing. Paper should be slipped
under the seam allowance so that the iron will not come in contact with
the foam.
3. Knitted fabrics should not be ironed back and forth since this may
stretch the fabric out of shape; a gentle stamping motion should be used.
Example: acrylic
4. Nylon should be pressed on the wrong side with the cool iron or with a
steam iron.
5. Dacron A low setting temperature should be used when pressing it.

Procedure in Pressing Completed Garment

Pressing is essential to the good look of a garment. After cutting the


excess threads on finished garment, final pressing is done. The amount of final
pressing can be kept to a minimum touch up. To achieve a well-pressed look on
finished garment, study the following steps in pressing:

1. Press on the underside first to open seams and to make the sleeve cap
smooth.
2. Press the rolled collar and lapel.
3. Reverse to the right side out, press the yoke.
4. Press the center front placket and hemline on the grain of the fabric.
5. Press the sleeves, then hang or fold as necessary.

Ways of Ironing a Seam

1. Pressing seam flat.

2. Pressing seam open

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3. Pressing seam to either right or left side.

Special Pressing Instructions

1. Some fabrics cannot be pressed at all; heat and moisture could melt and
damage the fabric. Vinyl is subject to discoloration so it should not be
pressed.
2. Perfectly pressed seams, darts and edges are thin smooth and pucker
free with no edge imprints on the right side. Fabric texture does not
change when pressed correctly.
3. Over pressed seams, darts and edges imprint to the outside. Fabric is
shiny and flattened from too much moisture and may shrink the
seamline and cause ripples.
4. Underpressed edges are rounded, and seams and darts have pronounced
wells or indentations.

Care of Iron

The obvious problem with a clogged


steam iron is that it does not deliver
enough steam. An even worse problem is
the tendency of clogged irons to become
suddenly unclogged and spew white
mineral globs all over your best black suit.
A clean iron speeds your pressing and
protects your clothes. To keep your iron in
good condition, remember the following
care tips:

1. Follow the manufacturer's instructions to keep the steam vents from


becoming clogged. Some irons use tap water; others require distilled
water.
2. When you clean the soleplate of your iron, remove residue from the vents
with a cotton swab or pipe cleaner. A sharp knife or other tool may
scratch the soleplate.
3. Use a cloth dipped in baking soda to clean the soleplate of a slightly
warm iron. Scrub starch buildup or other soil. Rinse well, taking care to
clear the vents.

166
4. If your iron is sticky from pressing starched clothes, clean it by running
it across a piece of aluminum foil, fine sandpaper, or paper sprinkled
with salt. If your iron is plastic-coated, though, avoid salt or other
abrasives.

Difference between Ironing and Pressing

Ironing is done by using a back and forth motion while pressing is done
by using an up-and – down motion. Ironing can stretch the fabric out of shape
and cause wrinkling and puckering on finished garments so always press.

167
LET US REMEMBER

 Some fabrics cannot be pressed at all; heat and moisture could


melt the fabric or damage the finish garment.
 Iron gets dirty and pick up colors from the fabric. Clean your
iron periodically, especially if pressing light colored fabric.
 To keep freshly pressed garments from getting wrinkled, allow
them to rest and cool down on the ironing board before moving
them.

SELF CHECK

I. Multiple Choice. Choose the letter of the correct answer.


1. The following are pressing equipment EXCEPT ___________________.
a. flat iron c. pressing cushion
b. ironing board d. presser foot
2. The process of removing the creases and wrinkles to a finished garment
is __________________.
a. creasing c. pressing
b. finishing d. pounding
3. A pressing tool which is well-padded to achieve smooth result is
____________.
a. ironing board c. pressing cloth
b. needle board d. sleeve board
4. Pressing is usually done after the garment is ____________.
a. completed c. cut
b. constructed d. sewn
5. An activity that can be done in back and forth motion and can stretch the
fabric shape is ____________.
a. cutting c. pressing
b. ironing d. washing
6. The best way to press finish garment is to ___________.
a. let the cord drag over finish work.
b. press on the wrong side of the garment.
c. use the right tools for pressing.
d. all of the above
7. A special fabric that should not be ironed back and forth is ____________.
a. knitted fabrics c. pile fabrics
b. laminated fabric d. woven fabrics
8. A barrier that protects the fabric from direct contact is _____________.
a. iron board c. needle board
b. pressing cloth d. sleeve board
9. To achieve the best results, the side of silk and woolen fabrics that
should be pressed is the ____________.
a. Bottom c. wrong side
b. right side d. upper
10. Georgette is an example of ___________________.
a. cotton c. silk
b. linen d. wool

168
II. Answer the following questions.

1. How do you describe a well-pressed garment?


___________________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________________

2. Why should we use pressing tools and equipment properly?


___________________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________________
3. How do you differentiate ironing from pressing? Which one is best for
completed garment? Why?
___________________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________________

169
LET US APPLY WHAT YOU HAVE LEARNED

Task: Press Completed Garments


1. Press the finished projects
2. Evaluate performance using the evaluation sheet below.

EVALUATION SHEET FOR PRESSING COMPLETED GARMENT

Assessment Criteria C MC NC
1. Completed garment and pressing equipment were
prepared according to the standard operating
procedure
2. Pressing equipment temperature setting was
properly regulated in accordance with fabric types.

3. Pressing was done according to correct sequence.


4. Faults, spots, and marks were identified, and
given appropriate actions.
5. Safety habits were observed while pressing the
garment.
6. Work was completed on time

Legend: C- Competent MC- Moderately Competent NC-Not yet Competent

Final Assessment: ___________________


Assessed by: _________________________________

RESOURCES:

1. Flat iron
2. Ironing board
3. Press cloth
4. Cloth/ Fabric sampler

170
LESSON 4

PACKAGING THE FINISHED GARMENT

INTRODUCTION

The lesson deals with the labeling and packaging of finished garment in
accordance with the standards.

ASSESSMENT CRITERIA

1. Garment packages are labeled in accordance with the labeling standards.


2. Finished garments are packed in accordance with the packaging
standard or procedure.

DEFINITION OF TERMS

 Brand – a trade name or trademark.


 Consumer – a person who uses food, clothing or any article which
a producer makes.
 Label – something attached to an article to identify it or give details
concerning its ownership, use and nature.
 Package - anything that protects or wraps product.
 Wrap – to cover by winding or folding something around.

INFORMATION SHEET 4.4

Importance of Product Packaging

Product packaging is wrapping a product for distribution. Packaging is


an important element of marketing goods. Products are wrapped to protect it
from dust and moisture. In the context of the industry, materials to be handled,
shipped and used are allowed for group packaging to facilitate proper handling
of many products.

Packaging does not only protect goods, it also promotes brand name and
the product itself. For this reason, a well designed package is a key to
encourage potential buyers to purchase the product. The best packaging is
innovative, visible, attractive and environmentally friendly.

171
Packaging is categorized as follows:

1. Primary Packaging- material that first wraps the product. This is in


direct contact with the contents.
2. Secondary Packaging- used to hold primary packages together.
3. Tertiary Packaging- used for bulk handling, storage and shipping. As
required by law, a packaging should contain label that provides
information on the product and symbols to communicate some care and
safety instructions such as recycling symbol, bar codes, “fragile”, “this
side up”, etc.

Packaging Materials

Packaging calls for environmental responsibility. When choosing


packaging materials, consider the “three R’s”-reduce, reuse and recycle.
Reusable packaging adds a distinctive appearance and value to your product.

The following are the packaging materials:

A. Synthetic

polybag PVC box tapes

1. Polyethylene bags (Polybag)-most widely used packaging material.


2. PVC (polyvinyl chloride) box- a synthetic thermoplastic material for
attractive packaging.
3. Tapes-used to seal packaging.

B. Paperboard/Cardboard

Apparel box

cardboard

172
Paperboard is often used for secondary packaging, although it can be
seen in primary packages as well. A paperboard carton is a popular choice
because it is not only recyclable but it also offers plenty of space to print eye-
catching graphics and text. Here are some packaging made of paperboard:

2. Chipboard/pads/Shirt board – stiffens the garment and makes it stable.


3. Dress board – provides stability and protection for garments during
shipment.
4. Collar board-support the shirt collar.
5. Tissue paper- laid over the garment before folding to prevent it from
creasing.
6. Apparel boxes-made of cardboard and come in variety of colors.

Procedure in Packaging

A. Making and Attaching Clothing Label

Another finishing touch to your completed garments is the label or tag.


Large garment manufacturers use custom fabric labels and clothing tags
usually attached on the back neckline. There are also embroidered, self-
adhesive, iron-on and sew on patches and hang tags. The following are the
information found on a garment label.

 Brand and trademark


 Name of the manufacturer
 Amount and fiber content - Ex. 90% cotton, 10% polyester
 Country of origin – e.g. Made in the Philippines
 Care instruction
o do not bleach
o warm iron
o dry cleanable
o machine wash warm

Clothing Size Label

Round style Wrap around


clothing size label
How to Make Your Own Sew-in Labels

Materials needed: transfer paper, scissors, iron, satin ribbon

Steps:
1. Create a logo for your product. This could be your name or the name of
your product. Gather samples of label to give you ideas.
2. Determine the size and type of label.
3. Layout your label using a word program on your computer. Keep it
simple. Stick to one name, one graphic and one background color.
4. Print it using a transfer paper.

173
5. Place on the center of ribbon and press.
6. Allow to cool and remove backing.
7. Sew ribbon labels on the desired part.

B. Folding the Garment

Folding the garment should be done immediately after ironing for best
results. The following are the steps in folding a shirt and a pair of pants.

Steps in Folding a Shirt


1. Lay the shirt flat on the table. Fasten every button on the shirt.
2. Turn it over with the buttons facing down and smooth it out until
it is perfectly flat.
3. Place a shirt board on the upper part of the shirt.
4. Fold one side of the shirt over towards the middle so there is a
vertical fold that runs from the middle of the shoulder. Bring the
sleeve over too and fold it back from the shoulder.
5. Repeat on the other side of the shirt.
6. Fold the bottom of the shirt over towards the center of the shirt so
it reaches halfway up. Then fold this bottom half over again so it
reaches the collar.
7. Place collar board.

Steps in Folding Pants

To keep your trousers looking their best, follow the instructions


below:

1. Lay the trousers on their side. One leg


should lie flat on top of the other with
the seam towards facing you.
2. Smooth the fabric down with your
hands.
3. Place a sheet of tissue paper or sheet
board at the center.
4. Take the bottom of both of the legs and bring them up over the
waist of the trousers so that a third of the leg lies above the waist.
5. Using both hands, hold the trousers on either side of the waist and
pick them up. Let the bottom third of the legs drop over the waist.
6. Lay flat and again, smooth down any folds and seams.

C. Putting inside the packaging material


Make sure the garment is flat when placed inside a polybag or box.
D. Sealing with tape.

 Packaging Tips:

1. Use brightly colored labels to make your product packaging stand out
from the crowd.
2. Design your packaging to target a specific audience.
3. Choose packaging materials which are eco-friendly like recycled
cardboard.

174
LET US REMEMBER

 Attractive and innovative packaging can go a long way.

 When consumers decide which product to purchase, the


packaging of a product could influence the decision.

SELF CHECK

I. Multiple Choice. Choose the correct answer and write it in your quiz
notebook.

1. Anything that protects or wraps a product is called ______________.


a. bundle c. package
b. cargo d. stocks
2. Garment label information like 90% cotton, 10% polyester falls under
____________.
a. the amount and the fiber content
b. brand and trademark
c. care and instruction
d. name of the manufacturer
3. An item of chipboard to be used in folding and packaging shirt.
a. dress board c. insert board
b. flower cups d. shirt board
4. It is something attached to some article to show product information.
a. label c. price
b. orders slip d. wrap
5. These are all garment labeling information EXCEPT ___________.
a. brand name c. manufacturer’s name
b. care instruction d. packing level
6. It functions as partition, filler and protector of apparel during shipment.
a. chipboard c. plastic bags
b. label d. apparel box
7. The outside packing level boxes are sealed with ___________.
a. electrical tapes c. scotch tape
b. packing tapes d. video tapes
8. For the garment items like shirts, pants, jackets, labels in the garment
must be ____________.
a. hang c. placed on top
b. pasted d. sewn
9. These are all purposes of packaging EXCEPT ___________.
a. To assure that the package is secured.
b. To insure that goods will reach its destination in good condition.
c. To facilitate a good form of handling the product.
d. To have an access of tampering.
10. It provides stability and protection for garments during shipment.
a. dress board c. shirt board
b. flower cups d. insert board

175
II. Answer the following questions.

1. What makes a good packaging?


________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
2. Why is labeling finished garment before packing important?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

3. Why do we have to use eco-friendly packaging materials?


________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

176
LET US APPLY WHAT YOU HAVE LEARNED

Task: Label and Package Completed Garment

1. Make a label for completed garment.


2. Make packaging of completed garment.
3. Package finished garments.
4. Assess output using the evaluation sheet below.

EVALUATION SHEET FOR PACKAGING COMPLETED GARMENT

Assessment Criteria C MC NC
1. Appropriate packaging tools and materials
were prepared and used.
2. Completed garments were labeled in
accordance with the labeling standards.
3. Finished garments were packed in accordance
with the packaging standard or procedure.
4. Environmental concern was observed in
packaging.
5. Safety habits were observed.
6. Work was completed on time.

Legend: C -Competent MC- Moderately Competent NC-Not yet Competent

RESOURCES:

1. Cellophane
2. Scotch tape
3. Sign pen
4. Plastic envelop
5. Plastic bags
6. Paper cartons

177
SELF CHECK
Directions: Choose the letter of the correct answer and write it in your quiz
notebook.
1. Georgette is an example of __________ fabric.
a. cotton c. silk
b. linen d. wool
2. Garment label information like 90% cotton, 10% polyester falls under ___.
a. the amount and fiber c. care instruction
content d. name of the
b. brand and trade mark manufacturer
3. Blanket tack is a type of ____________________.
a. arrowheads c. buttonhole
b. bar tack d. French tack
4. An informal washable shirt with short sleeves.
a. executive polo c. polo jacket
b. polo barong d. polo shirt
5. Touches means to modify by adding fine details in a finished __________.
a. accessories c. embroidery
b. appliqué d. garment
6. Apparel means ______________.
a. accessories c. decoration
b. clothing d. sewing
7. A stitch that holds folded edge like hem and facing.
a. basting c. hemming
b. blanket stitch d. herring bone
8. It should be smooth and well-padded.
a. ironing board c. pressing cloth
b. needle board d. sleeve board
9. The following are the characteristics of a good hemming EXCEPT_______.
a. stitches are unevenly c. stitches are even in
distributed width
b. stitches are flat d. there are no bulks or
wrinkles
10. To modify by applying fine details in a finish garments means __________.
a. finishing c. touches
b. hem d. tacks
11. It is made of bone, metal, or glass and a common closure on men’s
garments.
a. buttons d. zipper
b. hook and eye
c. snap fastener
12. It is the process of removing creases and wrinkles to a finished garment.
a. creasing c. pressing
b. finishing d. pounding
13. After the garment is _________, it is pressed when needed.
a. completed c. cut
b. constructed d. sewn
14. Anything that protects, embellishes, or wraps a product.
a. bundle c. package
b. cargo d. stocks

178
15. It provides a barrier to protect your fabric from direct contact with the
hot iron.
a. needle board c. seam roll
b. pressing cloth d. sleeve board
16. A kind of a special fabric which should not be ironed back and forth.
a. knitted fabric c. pile fabric
b. laminated fabric d. woven fabric
17. It is done by using a back and forth motion of an iron on the lengthwise
grain of the fabric.
a. cutting c. pressing
b. ironing d. washing
18. A strip of paper showing an inscription that indicates ownership.
a. label c. price
b. order slip d. wrap
19. A kind of fastener applied in the placket of men’s pants.
a. button c. snap fastener
b. hook and eye d. zipper
20. Final set of operation in constructing the garment is ____________.
a. finishing c. pressing
b. packing d. tacking

179
KEY TO CORRECTION

MODULE 1

PRE TEST SELF CHECK

1. A 1. A
2. D 2. C
3. D 3. A
4. B 4. C
5. B 5. A
6. A 6. A
7. C 7. C
8. B 8. B
9. C 9. A
10. B 10. A
11. A 11. A
12. D 12. C
13. B 13. B
14. A 14. C
15. A 15. B
16. A 16. A
17. C 17. D
18. A 18. D
19. C 19. B
20. A 20. B
21. A 21. A
22. D 22. D
23. A 23. A
24. A 24. A
25. B 25. B

180
KEY TO CORRECTION

MODULE 2

PRE TEST SELF CHECK

I. I.
1. Soaking 1. Pocket
2. Pressing 2. Layout
3. Trimming 3. Accent
4. Straightening 4. Pouch pocket
5. Button 5. Button
6. Accent 6. Bound pocket
7. Patch pocket 7. Soaking
8. Layout 8. Pressing
9. Pocket 9. Straightening
10. Bound pocket 10. Trimming

II. II.
1. D 1. D
2. D 2. A
3. B 3. B
4. C 4. D
5. C 5. D
6. D 6. D
7. A 7. D
8. B 8. B
9. D 9. C
10.D 10.C

181
KEY TO CORRECTION

MODULE 3

PRE TEST LESSON 1 PRE TEST

I.
1. C I.
2. B 1. hands 1. C
3. D 2. big units 2. B
4. B 3. cloth 3. D
5. B 4. Label 4. B
6. A 5. right side 5. B
7. C 6. needles 6. A
8. B 7. grain line 7. C
9. B 8. pins 8. B
10. A 9. flat 9. B
11. D 10.damp 10. A
12. D 11. D
13. A 12. D
14. A 13. A
15. B 14. A
15. B

182
KEY TO CORRECTION

Module 4

PRE TEST SELF CHECK/ SELF CHECK/ SELF CHECK/


Lesson 1 Lesson 2 Lesson 3

1. D 1. A 1. D 1. D
2. C 2. D 2. D 2. C
3. C 3. B 3. C 3. A
4. D 4. A 4. A 4. A
5. D 5. A 5. D 5. B
6. A 6. B
7. B 7. A
8. A 8. B
9. A 9. C
10. C 10. C
11. A
12. B
13. A
14. B
15. D
16. A SELF CHECK
17. A
18. A 1. C
19. C 2. A
20. A 3. D
4. D
5. D
6. B
7. C
SELF CHECK/ 8. A
Lesson 4 9. A
10. C
11. A
1. C 12. C
2. A 13. A
3. C 14. C
4. A 15. B
5. D 16. A
6. A 17. B
7. B 18. A
8. D 19. D
9. D 20. A
10.D

183
REFERENCES

Cruz, et. al., Effective Technology and Home Economics IV, Philippine
Copyright 1998, Adriana Publishing Co. Inc. 1998.
De Cosse, Cy. et al. Singer (Sewing Update). U.S.A. Contemporary Book Inc.,
1988.
De Guzman, Ines A. and Suratos, Cesar P. Technology and Home Economics
(First Year). Manila, Philippines. Saint Bernadette Publications,
Inc.,1993.
Del Rosario, Marissa, et. al. Clothing and Textiles III & IV. Manila, Philippines.
Philippine Book Company. 1986.
Department of Education, Culture and Sports, SEDP Series. Technology and
Home Economics. Home Technology Clothing II, Insular Printing
Corporation Philippines
Dorling, Kindersley; The Complete Book of Sewing
James, Leo , U.S.A. Kalayaan Press Mktg., Copyright 1977
Erwin, Mabel D. Clothing for Moderns. Sixth Edition. Quezon City, Philippines.
JMC Press Inc., 1979.
Francisco, Chic R. Rudiments of Simplified Pattern making of Men’s
Wear. Manila, Philippines. Golden Ideas Publishing House, Inc., 2006.
Hilario, Carmelita B. Clothing Technology (Made Easy). Valenzuela City,
Philippines. 24k Printing Co., Inc., 2001.
Iowa Home Economics Association, Unit Method of Clothing Construction,
Meriam Webster Dictionary and Thesaurus, Meriam Webster Incorporated,
Published 1831
Minott, Jan. Pants and Skirts. U.S.A. Burgess Publishing Company,174.
Navarro, Leticia S. Homemaking for You and Me (Clothing Construction).
Quezon City, Philippines. Abiva Publishing House, Inc., 1985.
Reader’s Digest Complete Guide for Sewing, McCalls, Sewing in Colour, London,
Homlyn Publishing Group, Copyright1964.
Readers Digest, Complete Guide to Sewing, Pleasant ville, New York/Montreal,
Copyright 1976.
Rostrea Cosem, Mass Production Technique in Garment Technology,
Simplicity, Sewing Book
Villanueva et al., Effective Technology and Home Economics, Philippine
Copyright, 1997, Adriana Publishing Co. Inc.

WEBSITES

http://library.thinkquest.org
http://www.ehow.com/how_5719_cut-mark-pattern.html#ixzz1fxBQNvg0
http://www.ehow.com/how_6144543_directions-bound-pocket
sewing.html#ixzz1fvcx83Oy
http://www.quilterscache.com/F/fabric_width.html

184
ACKNOWLEDGMENT

The Department of Education wishes to extend thanks and appreciation


to the representatives of the different Secondary Technical-Vocational Schools
who shared their expertise in developing the Competency-Based Curriculum
(CBC) and Competency Learning Matrix (CLM) on February 25-29, 2008 and
Competency-Based Learning Materials (CBLM) on April 14-19, 2008, refinement
and packaging of CBLM on May 5-10, 2008, final repackaging on May 23-25,
2008 at the Development Academy of the Philippines, Tagaytay City and the
final refinement of CBC-CLM-CBLM at the Marikina Hotel, Marikina City on
April 20-25, 2009.

This learning material was developed, enhanced and refined by the


following personnel:

Writeshop on the Development of CBC-CLM

 ELORJEN VILLAMAYOR
M. S. Enverga Memorial College of Arts and Trades

 LORENA GENITO
Zamboanga Del Sur School of Arts and Trades

 PURIFICACION RAZON
Don Alejandro Sr. Science and Technology High School

 ROSSANA I. SAGUID
Tanza National High School

 LUZ AGBULUS
Zamboanga del Sur School of Arts and Trades

 JULIE ANNIE M. PESTAÑO


General Mariano Alvarez Technical High School

 ANNABELLE R. DE LEON
Tanza National Trade School

 MARIA M. DEL MUNDO


E. Rodriguez Vocational High School

 PRESCILLA RAYOS
Community Vocational High School

185
Writeshop on the Finalization, Packaging and Repackaging of CBC-CLM-
CBLM

 ALVA NALDOZA
General Santos City

 ESTRELINA PALALON
Glan School of Arts and Trades

 FRANCISCA BUMANGLAG
Jones Rural School

 JULIE ANNIE M. PESTAÑO


General Mariano Alvarez Technical High School

 MARIA M. DEL MUNDO


E. Rodriguez Vocational High School

 ANNABELLE R. DE LEON
Tanza National Trade School

Writeshop on the Refinement and Enrichment of CBC-CLM-CBLM of Arts


and Trades Specializations

 ANNABELLE R. DE LEON
Teacher III
Tanza National Trade School
Paradahan I, Tanza, Cavite
Region IV-A

 MARIA M. DEL MUNDO


Teacher III
E. Rodriguez Vocational High School
Nagtahan, Sampaloc, Manila
NCR

 MARIA VICTORIA M. FERNANDO


Teacher III
Pangasinan School of Arts and Trades
Lingayen, Pangasinan
Region I

 NIMFA O. MARMOL
Teacher I
Muntinlupa Business High School
Muntinlupa City
NCR

 DR. MILAGROS M. TORRES


Master Teacher I
Sanchez Mira School of Arts and Trades
Sanchez Mira, Cagayan
Region 02

186
Writeshop on the Integration of Evaluation Results / Recommendations by
the IMCS Editors / Evaluators (November 21 – 25, 2011)

 ELENA C. REYES
Head Teacher III
Elpidio Quirino High School
NCR

 MARITA TAMAYOSA
Head Teacher III
Lubang Vocational High School

 LENELIA F. JAMILE
Teacher II
Miagao National High School
Region VI

 SUSAN SISON
Teacher I
Benigno Aquino High School
NCR

Finalization and Packaging of Learning Materials


(December 5 – 9, 2011)

 ELENA C. REYES
Head Teacher III
Elpidio Quirino High School
NCR

 LENELIA F. JAMILE
Teacher II
Miagao National High School
Region VI

187

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