CHAPTER 1

INTRODUCTION AND
OBJECTIVES

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1.1 INTRODUCTION
WFB Baird and Company exclusively manufactures linen textile. It has also expanded its
production to linen cotton blends to meet the supplier requirements in changing times. The
linen yarn is imported from China- Yixing Sunshine to its manufacturing units in Cochin
and Erode.
A spinning unit has been planned in Erode in an experimental basis, but the company still
feels that the cost of production is lesser in China for spinning.
Our first step was to learn about the profile of the company and their basic dealings. We
further dealt with the way the company handles the raw material and sends it through to
subsequent stages of manufacturing. We were to learn about the various stages in the entire
process of textile manufacturing, the importance of each of these stages, the machinery
features, machine and material process parameters available in detail in the areas of
Weaving, Dyeing, Finishing, Textile testing and quality control.

1.2 OBJECTIVES
a) To understand the concept of grey fabric production, dyeing, finishing of fabric, textile
testing and their quality aspects for both technical as well as for commercial purposes.
b) To note down the flow process sequence and technical details on machine particulars
of weaving, dyeing, finishing and testing department.
c) To note down particulars of raw materials, intermediate products and final product,
process details and product quality parameters.
d) To observe the manufacturing environment.
e) To analyse the productivity for various processes.

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 CHAPTER 2
COMPANY OVERVIEW

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2.1 ABOUT THE COMPANY

WFB Baird and Company Private Limited is a linen manufacturing company and was
established in 1912 at Union Street, Lurgan, Northern Ireland by William Frederick Burgoyne
Baird. The company has its manufacturing units in Ireland, India and Poland. The head designer
of the company is Mr Peter McNutt.

WFB Baird had its first manufacturing unit in 2005, at Cochin Special Economic Zone (CSEZ).
Currently, the company has its units in Cochin and Erode (Vijayamangalam and SIPCOT). The
company has around 500 employees in its Cochin unit.

The company offers linen specific finishes like pre-shrunk, non-mercerised, tumbled and easy
care among many other customer specific special finishes. The company is equipped with high
speed Dornier (plain and dobby) looms, continuous dye line, in-house yarn dyeing and new
generation processing machinery to finish fabric.

The main building of the company consists of office, factory including processing department,
yarn dyeing department, finishing department, physical and chemical testing labs, inspection
area, Quality assurance department and packaging.

Another building consists of preparatory process, weaving and sampling department,

warehouse I for yarns, Warehouse II for fabrics and canteen facility for all employees.

The company has an installed capacity to produce 9 million yards Linen fabric and process 12
million yards per annum.

2.2 THE VISION

The company continues the strategy of focusing on new and existing key customers with the
objective of developing Burgoyne into the world’s leading supplier of linen fabrics. Burgoyne
will bring to partners core fabric development, technical innovation and design at globally
competitive price.

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2.3 THE MISSION

The company is completely switching over to “Natural Gas (LNG)” based generation systems
making them an accredited member of the Green air project since 2016

2.4 HISTORY

 1912- WFB Baird setup his first linen mill, whose products where meant
primarily for handkerchief trade.
 1914- The company started producing linen canvas for World war army and
fabrics for parachutes.
 1962- The company was taken over by Frederick William Baird .The Company
started producing Linen shirts and blouses with Armani in Italy and Hamilton
Adams in New York.
 1988- Hugh and James Baird partnered with Peter McNutt and setup the brand
Baird-McNutt
 2005-The company setup its manufacturing unit in India
 2009-The company started supplying its fabrics to domestic apparel industry-
Arvind Mills an Blackberry
 2010-First retail store was launched in Cochin
 2015-Joshua Baird Burgoyne started a new division-“Burgoyne Ireland”-
readymade shirts for men.
 2016-The company launched Superwhite™, the whitest linen fabric which
retains its whiteness after 20 washes. Rahul Khanna became the face of
Burgoyne in India.

2.5 BRANDS

a. WFB Linen- Fabric brand which supplies 100% Linen and Linen blends

b. Burgoyne- Original Linen, Superwhite™ and casual wear and formal wears

c. Burgoyne Ireland- Retail brand

2.6 CUSTOMER PROFILE

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  With 90% of the production being exported, WFB Baird competes in the
global market place. The growth and success of the company has been built
on the development to strategic partnerships with a selected group of targeted
key customers. In WFB Baird India only 20% of the goods produced can be
sold in Indian market. Only for the Indian retail market the company has
started one more production unit in Erode. Burgoyne is a retailer dealer
network and WFB Baird is the international export network.
 Burgoyne is available all over India through a network of multi brand outlets
and textile retailers across cities apart from its exclusive 4 brand outlets ,2
franchise stores and 9 dealers across India

2.7 CLIENTS

i. Marks and Spencer

ii. Blackberrys
iii. Louis Philippe
iv. Van Heusen
v. Fab India
vi. Color plus
vii. Indian Terrain
viii. Raymond
ix. LL Bean
x. Polo Ralph Loren
xi. Dillard’s
xii. Giorgio Armani
xiii. Marco Polo
xiv. Brooks Brothers
xv. Men’s wear house
xvi. Abercrombie and Fitch
xvii. Tommy Banana Global Sourcing Ltd
xviii. Talbots
xix. J Jill
xx. Landsend
xxi. Mavi

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 xxii. Mulberry
xxiii. J Crew
xxiv. Monsoon accessorize Ltd
xxv. Eileen Fisher
xxvi. Chicos
xxvii. Dockers
xxviii. Calvin Klien
xxix. Allen Solly
xxx. Bonobos
xxxi. Arvind

2.8 ORGANISATIONAL STRUCTURE

Figure 2.1 Organisational Structure

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2.9 PRODUCT RANGE

I. 100% Linen

 Shirting
Cost - Rs 540 to 2800 per meter
Weight - 100 to 170 gsm

 Suiting
Cost - Rs 600 to 1700 per meter
Weight - 170 to 230 gsm

 Furnishings
Weight - 89 to 300 gsm

II. Cotton-Linen

 Shirting
Cost - Rs 350 to 750 per meter

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2.10 PLANT LAYOUT

Figure 2.2 Plant Layout

(Diagrammatic representation; not for scale)

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10
 CHAPTER 3
DESIGN DEPARTMENT

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3.1 THE DESIGN TEAM

The design team is led by senior manager in design and development, Mr Venu M R.

The department also consists of designers including exclusive print designers for Burgoyne,
one for readymade garment category (RMG) and another for exports of WFB linen.

The Burgoyne has conference 3 times a year with the dealers for the selection and order
placement held at different countries.

The software used by the department are TexCad, Fabrica and SAP.

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3.2 PROCESS FLOW CHART

Forecast themes

Design development

Sampling

Quality assurance

Sample cards

Dealers

Order placement

Production

Quality assurance

Dispatch

Figure 3.1 Process flow chart for Design Department

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 CHAPTER 4
SAMPLING DEPARTMENT

4.1 THE SAMPLING TEAM

The head of the sampling department is Mr Arun followed by Assistant managers, officers and
workers. In the industry handlooms are used as sampling looms.

The sampling department also have a store containing all fabric samples. Sampling prepares
the swatch card for the customers. The department also does starching of the yarns for sampling

4.2 MACHINES IN THE DEPARTMENT

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The machine used for warping is the Suzuki Warping Machine (Model NAS 300 W). This is
used for blanket development where 13-15 types of warp options are possible also with colour
changes in weft.

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16
 CHAPTER 5
PRODUCTION AND
PLANNING DEPARTMENT

5.1 PRODUCTION AND PLANNING TEAM

The production and planning department is headed by the senior manager followed by junior
managers, assistant managers and trainees.

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The team acts as a link between marketing department, merchandisers and production unit. The
main task of the planning department is to plan the production and suggest the final output date.

5.2 LEAD TIME

The lead time for different processes as suggested by the department is as follows.

a) Piece dyed- 8 to 10 weeks

b) Yarn dyed- 10 to 12 weeks
c) Yarn procurement- 3 weeks
d) Dyeing- 3 weeks
e) Processing- 3 weeks
f) Weaving- 3 weeks

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 CHAPTER 6
WEAVING DEPARTMENT

6.1 LAYOUT OF THE DEPARTMENT

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 Figure 6.1 Layout of weaving department

(Diagrammatic representation; not for scale)

6.2 PREPARATORY PROCESS FOR WEFT

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The head of the department is Mr Vijeesh followed by assistant Managers, Officers, junior
officers and workers.

6.2.1 Winding

Yarns are repackaged as large cones, so that they can be further used for weaving process. This
re-packaging process is termed as winding.

During this process, some spun yarns may be imparted more twist or combined with other
single yarns into double and ply yarns. The defects in the yarn, like thick places and thin places
are also removed. This leads to increase in overall strength of the yarn and causes less yarn
breakage during weaving.

Advanced machinery namely Saurer Autoconer 6 with auto loading and unloading of cones is
also a part of the department.

6.3 PREPERATORY PROCESS FOR WARP

6.3.1 Creeling

Yarn packages are placed on a large metallic frame known as creel. These creels are equipped
with yarn tensioning devices so that constant yarn tension is maintained in all the yarns as they
are being wound onto the warp beam. The modern day creels are equipped with automatic
control, centralized tension variation and yarn breakage monitoring system in order to increase
the warping performance.

6.4 WARPING

The process of converting yarn from single end package to an even sheet of yarn representing
hundreds of ends (multiple end package) is called Warping. The ends are then wound onto the
warp beam. Warping can be done in two ways:

a) Direct warping – The ends of the yarn are wrapped in single operation from the yarn
packages onto the warp beam. This method is predominantly used when single
colour or less complicated patterns are to be woven.
There is one machine (brand- R B Electronics) for direct warping with creel
capacity of 680 cones.

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 b) Sectional warping – The yarns from the yarn package are wound in bands onto an
intermediate drum called Pattern Drum and are then transferred onto a warp beam
in a separate operation. This method of warping is employed when fancy coloured
patterns of warp are need or the capacity of creel is limited
There are three machines (brand-Hacoba) for sectional warping with creel capacity
of 480 cones. The warping beam has a conical end so as to prevent yarn slippage.
Both warping machines are imported from China (company- Liacheng Chang Run
Textile machinery).
Usually sectional warping is done for linen and direct warping for cotton as cotton
has to be sized first.

6.5 SIZING

Sizing is only done for linen cotton blends.

Sizing of the warp yarn is essential to reduce breakage of the yarn and thus the production stops
on the loom.

On the loom, the warp yarns are subjected to several types of actions, like abrasion at various
loom parts, inter yarn friction, etc. With sizing, the strength - abrasion resistance - of the yarn
improves and hairiness of the yarn also decreases.

The sizing paste is applied on the warp yarn with the warping machine. After weaving process,
the fabric is washed to remove the size paste (Desizing)

6.6 DRAWING IN AND DENTING

This is the process of drawing each end of the warp separately through the eyes of the heald,
as indicated in the draft and then through the dents of the reed

The order in which the warp threads are threaded in the heald shaft is known as "Drafting
Order".

The order in which the warp threads are threaded on the dents of the reed is known as "Denting
Order".

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The manual process of Drawing-in and Denting is time consuming and hence when mass
production of same fabric is to be done then simply each end of new beam is tied to
corresponding end of old beam. This is called Tying-In.

6.7 WEAVING

The weaving department is headed by senior manager Mr Dileep followed by manager,

Assistant manager, trainees and workers.

The weaving is done using rapier loom. In rapier loom, the picking is done by a rod-like or
sword-like mechanical device, that carries the weft yarn at its tip and enters the shed when it is
open, withdrawing after delivering the weft end at the other end as the shed closes. Instead of
one, there may be two rapiers from both sides in case of wider looms, transferring weft from
one rapier to the other in the middle of the shed. They help in increasing productivity, but
power consumption also increases.

The department has German made Dornier looms as well as Chinese looms. The Dornier looms
are rigid whereas Chinese looms are flexible.

Dornier machine has 5% wastage. Despite this it has an advantage that fabrics with variable
ppi can be woven in Dornier machine but not in Chinese machine.

There are 120 looms in the department.

Maximum of 8 colours can be used in weft. Electronic colour selector is the weft controller.

1 worker is in charge of 6 looms.

For an average PPI 51.8, total production per day= 20,000 yards

Piece dyed production= 250- 280 yards per day (average ppi = 50)

Yarn dyed production= 200- 220 yards per day (average ppi = 50)

6.7.1 Important parts of the loom

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 a) Heald Shaft

This part is related to the Shedding Mechanism. It can be made up of wood or metal. It carries
number of heald wires, at the centre of which is the heald eye. The ends of warp sheet pass
through these heald wires. The number of Heald shafts used in weaving depends on the Repeat
of the weave.

The main functions of heald shafts are:

 It helps in shed formation

 It helps in identifying the broken warp thread.
 It determines the order of lifting and lowering the warp ends for a pick

Mainly 12 or 16 shafts are used in the industry. For complex designs up to 20 shafts are being
used.

b) Reed
 It is a metallic comb which is made up of number of wires. The gap between
these wires is known as Dent. The reed performs the following functions:
 It pushes the last inserted pick to the fell of the cloth.
 It keeps the warp ends in its position and avoids entanglement.
 It determines the fabric density, i.e. the number of ends per inch of the fabric.
 Mostly used reed count in the company are 50, 64 and 70

c) Warp Beam

This is also known as the Weaver's Beam. The warp sheet is wound on to this beam and it is
fixed at the back of the loom.

d) Back Rest

Back Rest or Back Beam is above the weaver's beam. It acts as a guide to the warp sheet coming
from the weaver' beam and also as a sensor for sensing the warp tension

e) Breast Beam

The breast beam or the front rest is between the temples and the cloth roller at the front of the
loom and it acts as a guide for the cloth being wound on to the cloth roller. The front rest along

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with the back rest keeps the warp sheet and cloth in the horizontal position and maintains proper
tension to facilitate weaving

f) Cloth Beam

It is also called as cloth roller. The woven cloth is wound on to this roller. This roller is at the
front of the loom

6.7.2 Basic operations in weaving process

The weaving process consists of three basic operations which form a continuous cycle whether
in the simplest hand-loom or in the most complex automatic loom. These Primary Motions of
Weaving are as follows:

a) Shedding
The separation of the warp threads into upper and lower layers forming a Shed, or a
tunnel, through which the weft is passed
b) Picking
The insertion of the weft thread, which traverses across the fabric, through the shed
c) Beating-up
The carrying forward of the last inserted pick or weft, to the fell of the cloth

The picking and the beating-up operations are fixed no matter what type of fabric is being
produced, but the shedding motion is variable and can be described as the heart of weaving as
it is here that the nature of the interlacing or the weave, is decided.

In addition to the three principal operations, several ancillary motions are required for control
purpose. Some of these are mechanical devices connected with the safety and the continuity of
weaving operations, but influence of some motions can alter the cloth appearance considerably.

These Auxiliary motions are as follows:

a) Warp Let-Off –
This determines the rate at which the warp is fed forward and the tension of the warp
yarn. The tension is largely responsible for the configuration of warp ends in the cloth
and two fabrics of identical design but woven with varying degrees of tension may
appear different and may possess different characteristics
b) The Cloth Take-Up

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 This determines the speed of cloth withdrawal and therefore, the density of spacing of
the weft picks (i.e. the Picks per inch) in the cloth

The other mechanisms are as follows:

a) Warp-Protector motion –
This stops the loom to prevent excessive damage to the warp threads, cloth, and reed if
a shuttle becomes trapped between the top and bottom shed lines and the reed is failing
to complete its traverse.
b) Warp and Weft-Stop Motion –
This will stop the loom almost immediately if a warp end or a weft thread breaks, thus
avoiding defects in the fabric.

Yarns must remain completely parallel from warp beam to cloth beam and not cross each other.
If they do cross each other it may cause warp yarns to break, which ultimately results in fabric
defects.

The weave structure in the fabric is determined by two factors.

The order in which the warp threads are threaded in the heald shafts and in the reed.

The combination of heald shafts raised or lowered at a time, and the sequence in which the
heald shafts are raised or lowered

6.7.3 Shedding process

The shedding mechanism, during which the warp threads are manipulated to produce a given
interlacing, is achieved by threading each end through an eye of a heald wire, and raising or
lowering this wire dependent on whether it is required to lift the end above the weft, or to keep
it below the weft during picking. This can be achieved in the following three ways:

6.7.3.1. Tappet Shedding Mechanism

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In this the heald wires are not operated singly but are attached to heald frame and hence rise or
fall together with the movement of the shaft. The tappet system is used to control the shedding
where, due to simplicity of interlacing; only few heald shafts are required. But this imposes
limitation on length of design. For these reasons tappet principle of shedding is employed
mainly for high speed production of standard cloths where changes of structure are infrequent,
and simplicity offers some advantage.

Thus, only plain weave is done in tappet shedding mechanism in the industry

6.7.3.2. Dobby Shedding Mechanism -

Here as well, the heald wire are attached to heald shaft like for tappet shedding, but this system
offers considerably greater scope for producing figured effects and are often capable of
controlling up to 24 healds.

Alignment of warp & weft is done by given design. Different colours of yarns are used.

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6.8 PROCESS FLOW

Preparatory processes

Beam fore lift

Drawing( 2 people)

Setting up of loom

Weaving

Approval of first bulk

Production

Quality assurance

Processing

Quality assurance

Final inspection

Packaging

Figure 7.2 Process flow chart for weaving department

6.9 WEAVING DEFECTS

 Double pick/ end

 Broken pick/ end
 Bump mark
 Broken pattern.
 Float
 Missing end
 Size stain/patch
 Reed mark.
 Wrong pattern/denting/ drawing.
 Warp/ Weft slub

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 Temple Mark
 Loose pick
 Fluff
 Lashing
 Less width
 Loops
 Oil stain
 Wrong dent
 Wrong drawing
 Water mark
 Thick place
 Thin place
 Warp pattern wrong
 Warp snarl
 Weft pattern wrong
 Tight end
 Size patches
 Slough patches
 Starting mark
 Hole
 Impression mark
 Dobby line mark
 Cut pick
 Crack
 Crease mark
 Bad selvedge
 Abrasion mark
 Cross end
 Sectional mark
 Warp snarl
 Wrong colour end

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30
 CHAPTER 7
DYEING DEPARTMENT

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7.1 DYES USED IN THE INDUSTRY AND THEIR FUNCTIONING

7.1.1 Vat Dyes

Vat dyes are insoluble organic compounds and do not have any substantivity to cellulose. These
dyes are widely used for cellulose fibres. They produce good colour range but limited selection
of orange, blue. Large amount of dyes are required to attain deeper shade.

Application
•Since these dyes are insoluble in water, it cannot be applied directly to the fabrics. First
these dyes are converted into water soluble form, by reducing it with the help of Caustic
soda and Sodium hydro sulphite. When these dyes become soluble in water, they can
be applied on a fabric. After the application, these dyes are again converted into water
insoluble form by oxidation process, with the use of hydrogen peroxide and acetic acid
or simply by air oxidation.

•These dyes are most difficult to process and require a skilled person to dye the fabric.
Vat dyes have excellent fastness to crocking, perspiration, chlorine bleaching, oxidizing
agents and high temperature treatments. This is a very expensive dyeing process and
high initial cost of dye and chemicals prevent it from uses in normal fabrics dyeing. Vat
dyes are used on best quality of the fabrics where all round fastness is required. Indigo
is the first known class of Natural Vat dye.

7.1.2 Reactive Dyes

Reactive dyes are water soluble dyes, which are anionic in nature. Since these type of dyes
react with fibres and make covalent type of bonding with the fibre, hence they are called
Reactive dyes.

These dyes can be classified as hot brand reactive dyes and cold brand dyes.

It is a time consuming process. These dyes are primarily used for cotton and other cellulose
fibre at an alkaline pH of 9-12.

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 Application
Reactive dyes can be applied by exhaust method, as well as pad batch method also.
Reactive dyes are available in complete range of colours. They are very bright in
colours. These dyes are having very good fastness to washing, Good-very good fastness
to light, and Good fastness to dry cleaning, perspiration, crocking and poor fastness to
chlorine bleaching. It is very easy to obtain level dyeing using reactive dyes. These dyes
are having high flexibility in the choice of method of application of dyeing. Cost of
using reactive dyeing is high, because of price, loss of dyes during application and
extensive washing. These dyes take excessive time for the dyeing process.

7.2 YARN DYEING

The head of yarn dyeing department is Mr Manu for by officers, junior officers and workers.
The software used is Fabrica.

Yarn dyeing is done in package dyeing method. In this type of dyeing, yarns are wind on
package in the form of spools, cones or similar units and these packages of yarn are stacked on
perforated rods in a rack and then immersed in a tank. In that tank, the dye is forced outward
from the rods under pressure through the spools and then back to the packages towards the
centre to penetrate the entire yarn as thoroughly as possible.

Important Features of Package Dyeing

•More suitable for woven and knitted fabrics.

•Can be performed larger scale.
• Gives uniform results.
•Yarn package is stationary and dye liquor is circulated from inside to outside of the
package.
•Package tension is critical factor to get uniform dyeing; can be used for to due loose
fibres, slivers, warp yarns and fabric with proper modification.

Yarns are packed in cone. Each cone is of 1kg. According to the capacity of machine, cones
are arranged. In the company, 13 machines are for yarn dyeing.

Table 7.1 List of yarn dyeing machinery

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 Serial No. of machine Capacity of machine No. of cones
no.
1 2 3kg 3
2 2 9kg 9
3 1 12kg 12
4 1 20kg 20
5 1 30kg 30
6 1 54kg 54
7 2 108kg 108
8 2 252kg 252
9 1 430kg 430

Two types of yarn dyeing machine in the company are fully flooded and Air pad. We can use
fully flooded and air pad by applying pressure from both top and bottom. At each stage there
should be a fixed time, the machine gives an alarm after every process. Dossing will done
slowly otherwise shade variations can occur in single cones. After dyeing the yarn is collected
and allowed to dry in normal condition. Then they are sent to lab for shade checking. For
finishing the company does Hydraulic squeezing, hot dryer and RF Dryer.

13 machines are controlled by 4 operators.

Rpm of Hydraulic squeezing machine is 2800.

Rpm of RF dryer is 2900

7.3 PROCESS FLOW

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 Order from production
and planning department

Dyeing

Drying

Checking

Dispatch to warehouse

Figure 8.1 Process flow chart for yarn dyeing

7.4 DYEING INSTRUCTIONS

The workers are provided the clear recipe of the dyeing process for each order.

7.5 FABRIC DYEING

In the industry fabric is dyed by continuous dyeing process. In the continuous dyeing process,
textile substrates are continuously fed into a dyeing range. The speeds of dyeing range can vary
between 50 to 250 meters per minute depending on the type of the machine and type of fabric
used.

A continuous dyeing process typically consists of the following:

• Dye application.
• Dye fixation with heat or chemicals
• Rinsing or Washing.

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Continuous dyeing has been found to be most suitable for woven fabrics. The step of padding
plays a key role in the operation of continuous dyeing. A continuous dye range has been found
useful and economically sustainable for dyeing long runs of a given shade.

One important factor that separates continuous dyeing from batch dyeing is the tolerance factor
for colour variation. That is more for continuous dyeing as compared to batch dyeing.

This is because of two reasons:

a) The speed of the process.
b) Presence of a large number of process variables which affects dye application.

7.5.1 Optimizing of Continuous Dyeing Process

Continuous and to some extent semi-continuous dyeing processes both are less prone to water
consumption than batch dyeing, but results in high concentration of residues. If some strict
control measures are taken up then it is possible to reduce these losses of concentrated liquor.

The following steps may prove useful.

•Applying low add-on liquor application systems along with minimizing of volume
capacity of the dip through when pad dyeing techniques are in operation.
•Adoption of latest dispensing systems, where the chemicals get dispensed online as
separate streams. They get mixed only at the moment just before the delivery to the
applicator.
•Using any of the following systems for dosing of the padding liquor. Important to
know that it should be strictly according to the measurement of the pickup.
•A proper measurement of the dyeing liquor quantity consumption in comparison to the
processed fabric.
•The resulting values thus obtained are processed automatically and applied in
preparing the next comparable batch.

After the Lab Dip sample produced at the Pilot Plant is approved by the customer, the same
recipe is sent to the bulk for the dye preparation for the whole lot. After that color is prepared
and once again another sample is prepared from that bulk color.

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It is tested again for the Lab change Value. When this is completely approved the bulk dyeing
starts. If there is some sort of shortcomings then the recipe is altered and some changes is done
in bulk colour. This sample is called the DLC sample (Dye Liquor Check).

The bulk dyeing also corresponds to the methods and here also same sequence of Padding,
Drying and Developments is followed.

7.5.2 Methods of reactive dyeing

There are generally four methods for reactive dyeing

a) CPB: Cold pad batching

 It mainly used for applying dark color on fabric.
 Used for semi –continuous process.
 This machine is used for dyeing of cotton fabric with reactive dye.
 In this color and alkali (sodium silicate) apply on fabric in 4:1 ratio.
 Speed of machine 50m/min.
 Trough temp 36℃.
 Batching time 16-24 hrs.
 After batching fabric wash in soaper machine.
 In soaper machine unfixed dye is removed.
 For cold pad bath steam is not required and developing is done in 102℃. 45 rollers are
in the steam machine to roll fabric.

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 Fabric feeding

Trough(50L)

Carrier colour

Padding mangle ( Sodium Silicate+

Dye+Alkali)

Batching (16 Hrs)

IR unit

3 chambers of drying

Figure 8.3 Process flow chart for cold pad batch dyeing

b) PDPS- Pad Dry Pad Steam

 Pad-dry machine is used to pad the fabric with the dye liquor and subsequently
dry it. Both dyes can be used in pad dry machine.
 For developing 102℃ is needed.
 In this process anti-migrating agent, caustic soda, wetting agents are used.
 2gpl is used for light shades and 12gpl for dark.

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 Fabric

Chemical bath( salt +soda ash)

Padding (reaction)

Steaming

Washing

Soaping

Neutralisation

Figure 8.4 Process flow chart for pad dry pad steam method

c) Pad thermofix
Pad thermofix machine is used to pad the fabric with the dye liquor and subsequently
dry it. For drying purpose I.R. heaters and four hot flue drier at different temperature
are connected with pad dry machine. This machine is used for p/c blend when dyed
with disperse dye. The machine has 8 layer roller and each layer contain 10 rollers.
 No. of machine- 1
 Capacity of machine - 2400m/hour
 No of hot flue chambers – 3
 Capacity of machine – 35m/min

Fabric

Padding + curing (above 140°C)

Figure 8.5 Process flow chart for pad thermofix

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7.5.3 Method of Vat dyeing

Vat dyeing is done through Pad steam process. Pad steamers are used for the development of
dyes so that they have overall good fastness properties.

The aim of the Pad- steamer in the dyeing section is as follows:

• Development of vat dyes

• Development of reactive dyes (silicate method and chemical method).
• Washing

a) Padding
The fabric is padded with the recipes, in the padding mangle according to the process
used for the development of a particular shade.
b) Steaming
The most critical section in the dyeing is the steamer. Though dyeing in pad dryer has
been successfully carried out and padding of developing chemicals in the pad- steamer
is also correct, any minor problem can bring the worst results place.
The steamer has a Hut shape. The top rollers are driven while the bottom rollers are free
moving type.
The steam supply to the steamer is direct from the main supply line. Another exciting
feature of the steamer is its shape. The roof is tapered so that the angle of contact
between the two sides is 90℃. This is essential because as the exhaust steam rises, it
condenses on the top of the roof.
c) Washer
After passing through the steamer the fabric next goes to the washers for thorough
washing. The Pad-Steamer comprises of 8 washers. The first washer is at room
temperature and the temperature gradually rises in the subsequent washers. If the fabric
is vat dyed then the 4th washers are meant for oxidation. Hydrogen Peroxide is used as
an oxidizing agent. The 7th washer is meant for soaping. Non-Ionic soap is used for
soaping. The 8th washer is used for neutralizing the vat dyed fabric. Acetic acid is used
at room temperature. The fabric then goes to the vertical drying range.

40
 Fabric

Trough

Steamer

Solubilised form

Cold washer

Chemical oxidation

Soaping

Wash

Figure 7.6 Process flow chart for Vat dyeing

41
 CHAPTER 8
PROCESSING AND
FINISHING

42
8.1 LAYOUT OF THE DEPARTMENT

Figure 8.1 Layout of processing and finishing department

(Diagrammatic representation; not for scale)
Two types of fabric come to the department namely 100% linen and cotton linen
blend. The blend fabric usually has cotton warp and linen weft.

43
 The department strictly follows export order standards- ASTM, ISO and M&S.
The estimated wastage in the department is 3%.

8.2 SINGEING

During the weaving operations, warp yarns pass though heald wires, and reed.

It is continuously under friction during weaving process. Due to continuous friction, yarn
develops hairiness. This hairiness is undesirable in the fabric and provides an unpleasant feel
to the fabric or garment. The main objective of the Singeing is removal of protruding fibers
from both sides of fabric. For this purpose, the fabric is passed through singeing Machine in
open width.

In the company, gas singeing (LNG) is done where the fabric is passed over an open flame at
a high speed to prevent scorching.

The speed of the machine is 70m/min.

First the fabric passes through a centring device. It ensures alignment of fabric in the centre
using sensors. Then the fabric passes through brushing unit, which has 2 rollers namely pre
brush roller and post brush roller. The pre brush roller rotates in opposite direction of the fabric
movement thus removing the dust particles and protruding the fibres in 90° angle. These fibres
are then cut by an emery roller. The resulting fluff and dust is collected by suction into dust
bags. The rest protruding fibres are raised by the post roller.

Followed by the post roller is the burner unit, which consists of 4 burners. The fabric passage
is in such a way that the front and back gets burned 2 times each. There is cooling water supply
through the rollers so as to ensure that the fabric does not burn.

The flame intensity is maintained at 2.7cm. The standard fringe length is 2 mm to 3 mm.

Then the fabric passes through a compensator which maintains the tension of the fabric during
movement.

The fabric then passes through saturator for de-mineralising.

Wetting agent, sequestering agent and a desizing agent is added if required. Then the fabric
passes through squeezer.

44
It takes around 6 hours each for de-mineralising and desizing.

Uneven singeing leads to unlevelled dyeing.

8.3 DESIZING

After the weaving is completed, the size material is undesirable in the fabric and it makes the
fabric stiff and hydrophobic in nature. The main objective of the De-sizing is removal of starch
from fabric. For this purpose, the fabric is impregnated in the de-sizing bath and stored for 6
hrs.

The Impregnating bath contains required amount of enzyme, Wetting agent and Sodium
Chloride (NaCl). After this process, fabric is thoroughly washed with hot water. In Enzyme
application of De-sizing, the fabric padded with enzyme bath is then passed through steam of
96-100°C temp. This is a rapid process in which De-sizing process complete in less than one
minute. The main advantage of De-sizing with enzymes is that there is no risk of damaging the
fibers. The process is an eco- friendly and relatively expensive.

8.4 PROCESS FLOW

centring device

pre brush roller

emery roller

post brush roller

4 burners

compensator

de mineralising

desizing

squeezer

Figure 8.2 Process flow chart for singeing and desizing

45
8.5 SCOURING

The yarn made of natural fibres contains natural oils and waxes. These oils and waxes make
fabric hydrophobic and do not allow dyes and chemicals to penetrate into the fibres. The
Scouring is a cleaning treatment in which oil, waxes and residual sizes are removed from the
fabric by the chemicals. After scouring the fabric becomes absorbent in nature. In this process,
fabric is treated with strong alkali solution (5-10 g/l NaOH or mixture of NaOH & Sodium
Carbonate) close to or above the boiling temp, for 1-2 hours with hot rinse and final cold rinse
with acetic acid. The final rinse with acetic acid is also called souring process.

First the fabric passes through a series of two washers where the fabric is thoroughly washed.
Then it passes through saturator where caustic soda, wetting agent, sequestering agent and a
reducing agent is added.

Further the fabric is taken to steamer and then to washer in 50°C.

There is a heat exchanger, where waste water from the steamer and former washers supply the
heat required for the final washer.

The speed of the machine is 40m/min.

46
 8.5.1 PROCESS FLOW

Material

Washing unit

Hot Wash

Scouring Bath

Wetting agent + sequestering agent+ Caustic soda

Steaming Unit

100°C saturated steam

Washing unit

Figure 8.3 Process flow chart for scouring

8.6 BLEACHING

After scouring process, the fabric is free from oils and waxes, however natural colouring matter
are still present in the Fibre. If this colour is not removed at this stage than it will be very
difficult to attain the desired shade in dyeing process.

The main objective of the bleaching process is removal of natural colouring matter and to make
the fabric perfect white with minimum damage to fibres and within the shortest possible time.
Bleaching is generally carried out by oxidative process. Hydrogen peroxide bleaching is carried
out in the industry. Hydrogen peroxide is also called as “Universal bleaching agent”. Since, it
is a very mild bleaching agent,

Peroxide bleaching is carried out generally near or above boiling temperature, under pressure,
for one hour or more. Generally the PH is alkaline from 10.5-11.5 .A stabiliser (Sodium
Silicate) is used to control the vaporising of Hydrogen peroxide. After bleaching, the fabric is

47
thoroughly rinsed with slight amount of basic solution to avoid formulation of insoluble salts
of silicates.

After bleaching, fabric may be sold as perfect white cloth. For achieving perfect white cloth,
fabric is treated with Optical whitening Agents.

After bleaching there are a few drying rollers.

8.6.1 PROCESS FLOW

Water bath

Saturator

Steaming above
100°C

Washing

Neutralisation

Dryer

Figure 8.4 Process flow chart for Bleaching

8.7 CALENDERING

In this finishing operation, fabric is compressed between two heavy rolls to provide flattened,
smooth appearance of fabric by the action of heat and pressure. Surface of the roller can be
either smooth or engraved. These rollers are generally made of hardened chromium plated or
elastic thermoplastic materials.

Calendaring is done for many purposes.

The main effects are as follows:

48
  To improve the Smoothness of the fabric
 To increasing the lustre of fabric
 For closing the threads of woven fabric
 For decreasing the air permeability
 For increasing the fabric opacity
 To improve the fabric handle
 To flatten the slubs
 For obtaining silk like / high gloss finish
 To obtain Surface patterning by embossing
 Consolidation of non-woven fabrics

Swissing or normal gloss calendering only done in the industry.

8.8 STENTERING

The main functions of stenter are:

 To impart various chemical finishes and made them set on the fabric.
 For the Width setting of fabric.
 For the Correction of skewing and bowing defect (Mahlo unit).
 For the Heat setting of synthetics.

Stenter is for weft shrinkage. Fabric is passes in weft straightener as a wet condition. We can
see the unevenness through display over the machine. After that it goes through pin header
(sensor present in both sides). Then it passes through five chambers which have two blowers
and one cooling fan. The length of one chamber is 3m. Capacity of machine is 70mtr/mint.

The fabric that comes from the dyeing section is given any of the above-mentioned finishes
according to the customer’s requirement. The finishing liquor is prepared in tank area of the
stenter.

Machine brand: Babcock

The main parts of stenter and their aim are as follows:

a) Padding trough:

49
 Various finishing chemicals are transferred through the water-jacketed trough. The
trough is provided with the mangle, which take fabric through it.
b) Hot flue dryer:
The most striking feature of the stenter is the Hot Flue section. The Hot Flue unit has
been incorporated to increase the speed of the fabric in stenter.
c) Mahlo unit:
The fabric due to various wet processes in the processing house results into distortion
of the weft in the form of Skew or Bowing. To straighten the weft the Mahlo Unit is
employed. Problems are senses any distortion in the fabric and accordingly gives signal
to the rollers so that they adjust and straighten out the fabric.
d) Feed roller:
After mahlo unit there are feed rollers to feed the fabric to stenter chain according to
the stretching required in the fabric.
e) Width setting unit:
From feed roll the fabric is set to stenter chain by passing over feed rollers, which
provide required tension to fabric. When fabric is held on the stenter chain the width of
chain can also be set.
f) Chamber and heating system:
There are eight chambers in all three stenter, but the heating media are different.
Thermic oil: In the first stenter thermic oil is used to heat the radiators.
Steam used as heating media.

g) Cooling rollers:

2 water-cooled rollers are provided at the end so that we don’t get hot fabric at the plaitor

Capacity: 70mtr/mint
Temp: 150℃

8.9 SANFORISING

Sanforising or shrinkage is the final step of finishing before the fabric is forwarded to the
folding department. The function of this machine is to impart pre-determined shrinkage to the
fabric so that there is no further shrinkage in fabric during washing.

50
Machine name: Delta, Zhejiang machine

The shrinkage normally is given 2-7% depending upon the customer demand and the quality
of the fabric.

The machine has following sections:

 Damping section
 Compressing Unit
 Setting Unit
 Cooling unit

a) Inlet zone:
Fabric is fed over guide rollers to move in the machine. Firstly, the fabric is damped
with spray showers so that it goes slightly wet in sanforising machine for proper
shrinkage.
b) Rubber belt around steam heated cylinders:
The shrinkage unit comprises of a rubber felt and steam heated cylinder, which are in
contact with each other. The fabric is fed at the nip of these two. As the felt shrinks, the
fabric in contact with it also shrinks. More the pressure of contact, more will be the felt
shrinkage thus increase in the fabric shrinkage. The width of rubber belt is 67mm.

51
 CHAPTER 9
QUALITY ASSURANCE
DEPARTMENT

52
9.1 THE QUALITY ASSURANCE TEAM

The department is headed by Mr Ramesh followed by manager, two assistant manager, officers,
junior officers, trainees and workers. The quality assurance department consists of four main
areas- Testing lab, conditioned room, inspection area and shade matching.

9.2 TESTING LAB

The testing lab consists of the following machineries

a) Spectrophotometer:
This is known to be the most important device at the pilot plant. The spectrophotometer
develops the prominent recipe through its unique working; through that recipe a lab dip
sample is made. This sample further tested on the same machine for its value and
thereby its closeness with the original customer sample is studied.

b) Yarn evenness tester

Instrument used is Paramount Yarn Evenness Tester. Visual determination of
unevenness along the length of a yarn is carried out by wrapping it in equally spaced
parallel wraps over a board and comparing the appearance of irregularities against
Standard Rating Photographs. Yarn Evenness Tester consists of a yarn wrap Board the
Board is automatically to wrap yarn over it on operating the handle. The yarn is guided
on to the board through a yarn guide, which moves parallel to the pivoting axis of the
board giving uniformly spaced wraps.
c) Yarn strength tester
Instrument used is Yarn RKM Tester. In this instrument it is necessary to clamp the
yarn test specimen so that the machine loading access is aligned with the specimen axis.
With a thin test specimen such as yarn, alignment of the specimen for tensile testing of
yarn can prove difficult. This alignment of yarn during tensile tests is most easily
achieved and repeatable using capstan style grips. Then the
Force required to break single strand of yarn is calculated.
d) Abrasion tester
The instrument used is Martindale abrasion tester. Four specimens (38 mm diameter)
are mounted in the specimen holder. The sample is abraded against standard abradant
under standard load. A complex motion (resultant of two s.h.m. at right angle to one
another) is given to the specimen holder. No. of cycles are noted when two threads are

53
 broken. The specimen is examined at suitable intervals. If likely failure point is known,
then first inspection can be made at 60% of that value. For hosiery fabrics, a flattened
rubber ball is pushed through the sample as the holder is tightened thus stretching it.
Tested at 12kpa pressure till hole appears.
e) Fabric tear Tester
Instrument used is Elmendorf Tear Tester. The force required to continue the tearing of
an initial cut in the fabric is measured. Corresponding samples are made according to
test standards.
Check whether the pressure gauge value is in the range of 0.6 ±1 MPa, otherwise,
adjust the pressure relief valve to meet the requirements.
Start the Elmendorf tearing tester, enter the working interface and set the corresponding
parameters. Zero adjustments and calibration: Adjust the Elmendorf tearing tester
calibration according to the test manual, and adjust the angle, then return to the main
page to start testing.
f) Rubbing Fastness Tester
The Instrument used is Crockmeter.
The crockmeter consists of a rigid flat metallic platform on which the test specimen can
be held firmly and an abrading finger which rubs against it under a specified load. The
platform is fixed over the base of the equipment and lies in a horizontal plane. The test
specimen is held firmly over an abrasive paper which is pasted on the upper face of the
platform, with the help of two pins holding it at both ends. The abrading finger has a
flat circular rubbing face which is covered with 4 piece of white abradant fabric during
the test. The abradant fabrics picks up colour lost by the test specimen during rubbing.
It is held over the finger with the help of a tapered ring. Motion to the finger is given
through a reciprocating arm with runs and two ball bearings to minimize friction and to
apply a uniform load on the finger. The arm is moved by a manually operated crank
and connecting link. The equipment is finished in dark metallic paint and bright chrome
plating to give it a corrosion resistant finish.
g) Wicking tester
The instrument used is MSC Vertical Wicking tester. A piece of fabric specimen of 1
inch width is dipped in a beaker containing water. Then the distance of water movement
in the fabric sample is measured in a specific time.

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9.3 FABRIC FAULTS

Fabric faults can be categorized into the followings;

a) Warping Faults
 Extra End/ Double End
 Loose End

b) Sizing Faults
 Hard Size/ Size Hole/ Over Size
 Sizing Stains
 Sizing Balls/Beads

c) Production Faults
 Miss Pick
 Double Pick
 Hanging Thread
 Wrong Drawing
 Wrong Denting Count Mix
 Broken End/ Short End

d) Maintenance Faults

 Starting marks
 Repping mark
 Nozzle mark
 Temple mark
 Temple cuts (warp/weft cuts)
 Let off mark
 Shadow
 Lashing in
 Floats
 Reed cuts
 Reed mark
 Oil/grease stains

55
  Weft loose
 Short double picks
 Reediness
 Needle top
 Needle mark
 Short miss picks
 Crack
 Snarling

9.4 QUALITY CONTROL

The grey fabric is 100% inspected and graded into three categories- A, B and C.

They follow the 4 point system and the lot is rejected above 32 points.

5 INSPECTION

The fabric in roll form is converted into cuboidal form using a plating machine.

Grey inspection concentrates on weaving defects and final inspection concentrates on yarn,
dyeing and fabric defects.

All fabrics are 100% visually inspected using the latest computer controlled rolling machines.

Club Burgoyne has completely in-house fabric testing laboratories and all fabrics are tested to
international standards prior to despatch to customers.

The laboratory is accredited by several of major clients like Marks & Spencer.

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 Table 9.1 Four point system

Sr. Damage Length Point

no
1 1” to 3” 1

2 3” to 6” 2

3 6” to 9” 3

4 9” and above 4

9.6 PRODUCT QUALITIES

In WFB Baird, each fabric is known by its quality depending upon the epi, ppi, gsm, yarn
count and weave.

Some of the qualities are

a) Naisha
Premium quality
Warp x weft – 60 x 60
epi/ppi – 75/60
Reed count- 75
Weaves- plain weave and twill
b) Sonata
Warp x weft – 33 x 33
epi/ppi – 50/50
Reed count- 67
Weaves- plain weave and chambrays
c) Retro
Warp x weft – 33 x 33
epi/ppi – 55/58
Reed count- 67
Weaves- twill weave, mock leno, combination of plain and twill
d) Emerald
Warp x weft – 60 x 60

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 Weave – plain weave

Table 9.2 Fabric Grading

Fabric Grade Points per 100 sq. yard

A 0 – 10

B 10 – 20

C 20 – 32

FAIL 32 Above

58
CHAPTER 10

59
 CONCLUSION AND
SUGGESTIONS

10.1 NOTEWORTHY SUSTAINABLE MEASURES ADOPTED

a) Effluent treatement plant, so as to comply with the waste water management policy
of CSEZ
b) The use of heat exchangers at the processing department, saving energy
c) Blending linen with sustainable fibre- Tencel

10.2 LEARNING OUTCOME

Our 14 days internship at WFB Baird has been a great learning experience as it has not
only helped us understand the various textile processes in a better way, but have also
helped us relate to whatever we have been learning, about textile processing till date in
our classroom.
The conversations with the operators and other unit members have helped us understand
the various day to day operations, problems and their solutions that they come across

60
10.3 CONCLUSION
The time spent in the industry was very useful. It gave us immense practical and
technical knowledge. The industry insisted us to stay along the workers during the
factory time and allowed us to interact with them, which helped us to mould ourselves
professionally.

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62