Extreme

EHTCover 4/13/07 4:23 PM Page Cov1
Adding Skylights to an Existing Roof | New Laminate Floor in a Snap
The Enthusiast’s Guide to Home Improvement
Installing a
Pre-Hung
Exterior Door
June 2007
www.extremehowto.com PLUS:
Issue 05 Volume 06
$4.99US $6.50CAN
06
Power Fastener Profile
Crown Moulding Tips and Tricks
Install an Ornamental Steel Fence
0 71486 03600 5
Defy 4/23/07 10:01 AM Page IFC1
Defy 4/23/07 10:02 AM Page 1
BioPreserveSoyGuardFP 4/13/07 3:55 PM Page 2
DustlessTechFP 4/13/07 3:56 PM Page 3
5 Reasons Why
The Whole World is Going Dustless:
1
2
3
4
Reduce Clean Up Costs
Improve Worker Safety
Improve Productivity
Meet Pending OSHA Guidelines
5 Save Time & Money
Not All
Vacuum Dust Muzzle + Universal Adapter
Systems
Are
Created
Equal! • Patented feature captures
99% of airborne dust
• Attaches quickly & easily
• Fits more than 2,000 models
of right angle grinders
With and without vacuum attached
Compare Dustless to Typical Shop Vacs

Air-powered Orbital
Features Dustless Other Drywall Sander with
System System
Integrated Dust
Ability to change between wet and Containment System.
dry vacuuming without stopping to ✔
change filters.
Patented filtration system enables
cleaning of internal filters without opening ✔
Dual
the unit to keep dust inside the canister. Action:
Patented filtration system designed Sands &
specifically to contain extremely fine ✔ Contains
dust from dry wall and concrete cutting. Dust
Optional disposable patented micro- Air powered
prefilter that keeps secondary and ✔ turbine provides
primary filters clean. aggressive orbital
sanding motion.
Machine-washable fabric filters designed
to last the life of the machine. ✔
Dust is
dustlesstechnologies.com vacuumed
800.568.3949 in on all
four sides.
EHT0607 TOCEDIT.qxp 4/13/07 4:26 PM Page 4
CONTENTS
June 2007
50
38 58
F E ATU R E S
38 Entry Level
The ins and outs of installing an exterior door
50 Room with a View (or Two)

Adding skylights to an existing roof
58 Good Fences
How to install an ornamental steel fence
4 w w w. e x t r e m e h o w t o . c o m
BetterLifeFP 4/13/07 3:57 PM Page 5
EHT0607 TOCEDIT.qxp 4/13/07 4:26 PM Page 6
CONTENTS
EVERY ISSUE
8 From the Editor
96 Advertisers Index
COLUMNS 14
10 Q & A
14 Tool School
26 DIY 26
Crown Moulding
Tips and Tricks
D E PA R T M E N T S
70 Project Next
New Floor in a Snap
70
78 Material Market
Cutting Costs
by Building Smart
84 Everything Auto
Rust Resistance
78
88 Product News
Asphalt Roof Cleaning
Cover photo courtesy Therma-Tru Doors
RedDevilFP 4/13/07 3:58 PM Page 7
The ONLY Caulk You'll Ever Need...GUARANTEED!

KING KAULK™ Hybrid Polymer is an amazing new product you’re
sure to go ape over! It's so powerful that one tube replaces all
your caulks, sealants and adhesives, making it the one step
solution for almost every repair project.
CAULKS • SEALS • BONDS

• Replaces All Caulks, Sealants & Adhesives • Hundreds of Uses Around the Home
• Seals and Bonds Virtually All Materials • Superior Adhesive Strength
• Better Than Silicone or Polyurethane • Interior/Exterior Use in Any Weather
• Outstanding Initial Tack • Forms a Flexible, Watertight Seal
• Low Odor/Low VOC • UV and Mildew Resistant
• Excellent Paintability • Lifetime Durability Guarantee
1-800-4A-DEVIL • www.reddevil.com
EdLetterEDIT.qxp 4/13/07 4:27 PM Page 8
From the
EDITOR
E D I TO R
Matt Weber
C O P Y E D I TO R
“C
Tanya Thompson
arpe diem.” I saw those words printed on a t-shirt CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Monte Burch
today, and thought it was a pretty timely notion. Larry Walton
Mark Clement
In case your Latin is rusty, the phrase commonly translates to “seize
the day.” And now that the bite of winter is melting away in favor A DV I S O RY B O A R D
Monte Burch
of warmer spring sunshine, we’re heading into the days that were Kevin Hayes
Kathy Ziprik
made for outdoor projects. So take advantage. Draw up your plans, Mark Clement
call your friends and family, and get cracking. C R E AT I V E D I R E C TO R
The most fun projects are the big ones you can share with others. Wesley Glassco
Building a deck, landscaping a yard, or constructing some picnic C I R C U L AT I O N
Walter J. Riley
furniture—these are projects that were meant for spring. They go
hand-in-hand with fresh air, fun in the sun, and hanging out with
good people. There’s nothing more satisfying after a day of hard PUBLISHER
Chad Gillikin
work than kicking back at a backyard barbecue and enjoying a cold
beverage with friends. A DV E R T I S I N G S A L E S
Jeremy Hollingsworth
But the time to act is now. I learned a hard lesson a couple of Jan Logan
Jennifer Schilling
years ago, when my dad and I built a large, elevated patio. It was a
C U S TO M E R S E RV I C E
lengthy project and we had a blast, but we made critical mistake: Dusty Statham
We started the project in the middle of July, beneath a particularly REPRINTS
punishing summer sun. At the peak of summer, the sun knows no Nedda Maloles
717-481-8500
mercy and can sap a lot of energy out of you, and a lot of enjoyment nmaloles@reprintdept.com
out of an outdoor project. The patio involved a lot of heavy lifting, SUBSCRIPTIONS
hard digging and other forms of fairly grueling work in the high Kable News
888-587-8911
heat. Had we exercised a little more
foresight, we would have started earlier
in the year, in favor of milder tempera- TM
tures and a more pleasant experience all

M E D I A G R O U P , L L C
around. PRESIDENT
Trent R. Boozer
So, go dust off those work boots and
EXECUTIVE VICE-PRESIDENT
survey your outdoor living area. See Chad Gillikin
what needs to be done and go do it SENIOR VICE-PRESIDENT
today. Tackle your exterior projects while Val Carrier
the weather is nice, and save those cooler VICE-PRESIDENT FINANCE

Mark Gamble
interior jobs for the dog days of summer.
Extreme How-To is published by
LATITUDE3 MEDIA GROUP, LLC
33 Inverness Center Parkway, Suite 120
Birmingham, AL 35242
Phone 205.949.1600 • Fax 205.949.1601
www.extremehowto.com
Extreme How-To (ISSN 1540-5346) is published and distributed

monthly to DIY home improvement enthusiasts by Latitude3 Media
Group, LLC, 33 Inverness Center Parkway, Suite 120, Birmingham,
AL 35242 (executive and editorial offices). All rights reserved.
Neither this publication nor any part of it may be reproduced,
stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any
means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or other-
wise, without permission of Latitude3 Media Group, LLC.
Subscriptions: U.S. and possessions: 1 year (9 issues – $18.97);
foreign, 1 year (9 issues – $32.50) U.S. funds only. POSTMASTER:
Send address changes to Extreme How-To P.O. Box 426, Mt. Morris,
IL 61054-0426. SUBSCRIBER SERVICE: To order a subscription
or change your address, write to Extreme How-To P.O. Box 426,
Mt. Morris, IL 61054-0426, or call 888-587-8911; or E-mail to
ehtw@kable.com; or visit our Web site at www.extremehowto.com. To
order back issues, call (205) 949.1603.
The information in Extreme How-To’s editorial content is intended

to explain and simplify home-improvement tasks. Tools, products,
materials, techniques, building codes and local regulations
change; therefore, Latitude3 assumes no liability for omissions,
errors or the outcome of any project. The reader must always
exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations
that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed professional
if in doubt about any procedures.
Printed in the USA
AllAmericanWoodFP 4/13/07 3:59 PM Page 9
QAEDIT.qxp 4/13/07 6:36 PM Page 10
Q&A
Q&A
Q: My wife wants an in-ground water fountain in the front yard, and I have no experience installing one.
Is this even a DIY project or should I call a professional?
A: Actually, many home-improvement centers sell do-it-yourself fountain kits that simplify installation. The basic
kits typically include a liner and a pump. The pump is the primary piece of equipment needed to power the
fountain. You’ll be surprised how simple it is to actually make a water feature work—the toughest part is the digging.
You’ll have to dig out the basin or pond area, fill it with the liner and connect the water supply and pump. The required
water pressure for fountains varies. Whether you’re spraying the water upward, or building up rocks and allowing the
water to trickle down, different pump pressures will be required. You’ll need to match the rated pressure of the foun-
tain to the pump, or experiment with how much pressure you need to create the desired water effect.
Q: We recently installed a new roof, with new fiberglass insulation and two new wind turbines.
Would I save money during the winter if I were to cover those turbine vents with plastic?
A: You should certainly not cover the vents, not even during the winter. The attic should always stay ventilated,
or it will cost you more money to heat your house. A drafty attic is a good thing, because with no ventilation,
moisture will form inside the attic and saturate the insulation. And once the insulation gets wet, it loses its R-value and
doesn’t work. If the insulation gets even two percent damp, it loses one-third of its R-value. Those turbine vents actu-
ally help keep the insulation dry during winter time, which means your house will stay warmer.
SikkensFP 4/13/07 4:00 PM Page 11
QAEDIT.qxp 4/13/07 6:36 PM Page 12
Q&A
Q&A
Got
a
? Questions About Home Building, Remodeling? Have Your Own
How-To Tip? Visit our website at www.extremehowto.com and
click on Home Repair Forum.
Q: Is there a way to fix a loose metal handrail

without replacing the whole thing?
A: A wobbly metal rail is a common problem and is usually due to worn masonry anchors. To strengthen the rail,
first remove the rail and the old masonry anchors. Use a hammer drill with a 3/4-inch masonry drill bit to
enlarge the holes. If you don’t have a hammer drill, use a standard drill with a 1/2-inch bit and then step up to a 3/4-
inch bit. After drilling the holes, insert new galvanized carriage bolts (1/4-inch diameter, 3 inches long) into the holes,
positioned head down. Place the rail for a test fit. Then secure the bolts with Anchoring Cement. Immediately set the
railing onto the bolts and tighten the fasteners that hold the other end of the rail to the house. Secure the railing with
lock washers and nuts..
Q: I have a crack in the drywall of the living room ceiling. When it gets cold, the crack widens.
When it’s warm, the crack almost disappears. How do I fix it, so it never reappears?
A: If it’s a straight crack, then it’s probably a seam between the drywall panels. It comes and goes because during
the winter materials shrink and dry out, pulling the crack wider. In the summer, things get moist and swell.
One quick fix is to seal the crack with a paintable latex caulk, which will flex with the movement in the drywall. The
crack may still be visible but won’t be as obvious. However, the best method is to re-tape the seam and re-spackle with
three or four coats of good joint compound, sanding between coats.
MapeiFP 4/13/07 4:00 PM Page 13
ToolSchoolEDIT.qxp 4/13/07 4:34 PM Page 14
Tool School By Monte Burch

Impact Drivers, Wrenches and Ratchets
T hese days a wide range of extremely

powerful fastening tools is available
for a wide variety of fasteners. These include
impact drivers, ratchets and wrenches. One of
the fastest growing segments in power fasten-
ers is impact drivers. I tested a Craftsman
14.4-volt EX impact driver when they first
came out several years ago. My first job, con-
structing a deck for a church mission project,
sold me on the tool. After the first hour, sever-
al other construction workers decided the tool
was definitely on their Christmas list. In the
last three years, usage and popularity of
impact drivers has steadily increased due to
their size, fastening power and non-reac-
tionary torque. If you haven’t tried one of
these power fasteners, you owe yourself a
test drive. They can deliver up to 2,000
inch/pounds of torque, allowing you to
drive deck screws, quickly install windows
and doors, and even drive lag bolts, fasten
anchors into concrete and other tough
chores. And they do it with ease. There is
negligible torque feel. In fact most operate
best with a light grip on the handle.
Craftsman now offers a 19.2-volt impact Impact drivers are the “hottest” new
driver that produces 900 inch/pounds of tools and well appreciated by both
torque. serious do-it-yourselfers and contractors.
The new Bosch 10.8V Litheon battery
powered Impactor provides lots of
Making an Impact power in a tiny package.
Among the latest impact drivers on the market, Bosch Power
Tools has a full line, starting with their innovative new ultra-com-
pact 10.8-volt Litheon Impactor Fastening Driver. Merely 6 inches
tall by 6-1/2-inches long and weighing only 2.2 pounds, the little
driver is less than half the size and weight of an 18-volt NiCad
impact driver. A high-performance motor and all metal gears pro-
duce 1,800 RPM and 3,000 BPM creating 800 inch/pounds of
torque with the hammer and anvil system. Compared to a standard
18-volt drill/driver (500 inch/pounds), the 10.8-volt unit is 60 per-
cent more powerful and barely measures bigger than an average
worker’s hand. It easily fits into your tool belt for a wide range of
EmpireLevelFP 4/13/07 4:01 PM Page 15
Tool School
The new Bosch 14.4V model provides even more power

and has a handy belt loop feature allowing you to hang
it on your tool belt.
chores and is especially effective at driving self-tapping

screws. The Impactor comes standard with a Litheon charg-
er and two batteries.
I don’t understand why some companies sell impact driv-
ers with only one battery. These are job-site tools, and no
contractor or serious remodeler wants to wait for a single
battery to recharge on the job. Of course, a second battery
can be purchased separately.
Moving up in size, the Bosch 14.4-volt Litheon Impactor
provides more power with 3,200 BPM for faster fastening.
The 14.4-volt model produces 95.83 foot/pounds of torque.
This is the best all-around size for most fastening chores,
and the tool also comes with an extremely handy belt-loop
holder. You can simply slide it onto your belt or tool pouch
when not in use. It also comes with two batteries and an
interchangeable bit with built-in bit holder. An adjustable
LED light increases visibility.
Hitachi also makes a 14.4-volt impact driver with 1,330

inch/pounds of torque. It comes with two high-capacity lithi-
um ion batteries for three times the life at half the weight of
traditional NiCad batteries. The driver features Hitachi’s
unique two-step speed switch located on the side of the
handle that provides the ability to select Power Mode
(0-2,600 RPM), for full speed applications or Save Mode
(0-2,000 RPM), for more control and less power when the
application requires. Other features include an externally
accessible carbon brush for easy maintenance, two-piece
magnet motor and a 5-position belt hook with integrated
LED job light for convenience. This driver packs a lot of
muscle in a small package—only 6.37 inches long and
weighing only 3.3 pounds.
The New MaxSelect impact driver from Ridgid features a
compact design to allow for operation in close quarters. It
has an LED light and delivers 1,490 inch/pounds of torque.
Hitachi’s 14.4-volt impact driver features a unique two-step

speed switch for Power Mode (0-2,600 RPM), for full speed
applications or Save Mode (0-2,000 RPM), for more control
and less power when the application requires.
Swisstrax interlocking flooring tiles are the ultimate solutions GARAGE FLOORING FROM THE
for cracked, chipped or stained concrete floors. Creating GARAGE FLOORING EXPERTS.
attractive and comfortable environment for your cars,
workshop or other concrete areas could not be easier. The
modular floors are a very cost effective alternative to epoxy
coatings-lasting longer, easy to install, and can be taken with
88-88-GARAGE
you if you move (try that with epoxy coatings!). WWW.GARAGEFLOOR.COM
GARAGE FLOOR MATS, GARAGE FLOOR TILES, GARAGE FLOOR PA I N T AND MORE!
w w w. e x t r e m e h o w t o . c o m 17
Tool School
The DeWalt Heavy

Duty 18V model
features a textured
anti-slip grip, and
all-metal transmis-
sion. (Photo cour-
Ridgid’s new MaxSelect tesy DeWalt)
impact driver features a
compact design, and vari-
able speed control for
easy screw starting.
(Photo courtesy Ridgid)
One great feature of the Ridgid is a variable speed switch

that allows for slow, controlled starts and fast finishes. As I’ve
discovered in testing units, this is one of the most appreci-
ated features. The unit produces 3,300 BPM in 24-volt
mode. It features a 1/4-inch quick coupler and a single
ended impact bit. The MaxSelect includes one battery.
The Heavy Duty 18-volt cordless impact driver kit
from DeWalt produces 1,170
inch/pounds of maximum
torque with 0-2,400 RPM and
0-3,000 BPM. It features a tex-
tured anti-slip comfort grip and
an all metal transmission. The
heavy-duty impacting mecha-
nism directs torque to the fas-
tener without kickback. It
comes with two XRP batteries,
one hour charger and case.
Black and Decker’s FireStorm
line also offers an 18-volt
impact driver, delivering 0-400
RPM in High Torque applica-
tions, 0-1600 RPM in High
Black and Decker enters the

impact driver market with its
18V Firestorm model.
Speed applications, and 490 inch/pounds of torque. It oper- IMPACT ACCESSORIES

ates on the same NiCad battery platform as other 18-volt
Black and Decker products, so you can interchange the bat- The IMPACT READY accessory set from DeWalt is
teries if you own some of the other tools. Retailing for about designed especially for the impact driver market, with
$60, this is the most modestly priced of the impact drivers performance in drivers up to 2,000 inch/pounds of
we tested, but the battery and charger are sold separately. torque. The 38-piece accessory set includes two new
patented products. The innovative pivoting bit holder
Wrenches with Muscle enables you to achieve accessibility to tight spots with
As we move up in torque, Hitachi’s 14.4V Lithium-Ion 20 degrees of flex, eliminating the need for most right-
Cordless Impact Wrench (not driver) produces 1,780 angle attachments. An auto-locking feature prevents
inch/pounds of turning and tightening torque. This power accidental pivoting and allows normal straight use. The
wrench is ideal for tightening carriage bolts, driving lags and pivot holder has a 1/4-inch hex shank, and is made of
sinking deck screws. It comes with two high-capacity 3.0Ah durable stainless steel with a built-in magnet. New
batteries and features a two-speed switch for Power Mode (0- double-ended bit tips provide two usable ends. These
2,600 RPM) or Save Mode (0-2,000 RPM), for more bit tips fit in all bit tip holders, drive guides, drywall
enhanced control. The 1/2-inch square chuck on the guns and drivers. The set includes the most com-
impact wrench easily accepts all 1/2-inch sockets for con- monly used 6-point thin-
venience and flexibility. Other features include an exter- walled deep sockets,
nally accessible carbon brush, replaceable armature, including 3/8-, 7/16-, 1/2-
adjustable belt hook and LED job light. Like its impact and 9/16-inch sizes. The
driver “brother,” this Hitachi impact wrench is compact set also includes nut set-
and weighs only 3.3 pounds for convenience. ters, socket adapters and
Bosch has just introduced its 18-volt NiCad 1/2-inch screwdriving bits.
High-Torque Impact Wrench.
With a 1/2-inch square drive anvil
for 1/2-inch sockets, this is the
answer for the tougher jobsite
chores. The tool turns at 1,900
RPM to deliver 2,100 BPM and
the highest torque in its class at
350 foot/pounds. The tool’s head-
length is more than an inch short-
Hitachi’s 14.4V Cordless Impact

Wrench produces 1,780
inch/pounds of turning and
tightening torque.
Tool School
er than most competition, measuring As you move up in power
only 9-1/2 inches and weighing 7-1/2 needs, air-driven tools such as
the Campbell-Hausfeld impact
pounds. The new tool will drive a ratchet are the best choice.
wide range of fasteners including: lag
bolts, Tapcons, large wedge and sleeve For even more power an impact
wrench, such as the Campbell-
anchors, high-strength friction grip Hausfeld model shown is best.
bolts, structural bolts, hex bolts, Some models can produce up
CleveLoc nuts, high nuts and more. to 600 ft.-lbs. of torque.
The new jobsite tool is perfect for set-
ting up temporary structural braces, anchoring pipe or
equipment or tightening down fasteners. The unit comes
with two 18-volt Bluecore NiCad batteries, a 30-minute
charger and carrying case.
Mechanics have long used air-powered fasteners, and they
are still the ultimate in torque. Most job sites these days also
have compressors for quick and easy framing, roofing and
other carpentry chores with air nailers. A compressor and air
ratchet or wrench can also be invaluable for many of the
harder jobsite fastening chores. These tools do not require a
battery, and are extremely durable and long lasting. Ratchets
are available in 1/4-, 3/8- and 1/2-inch drive, and produce
between 50 and 70 foot/pounds of torque. Impact wrenches
are also available in 1/4-, 3/8- and 1/2-inch drive and can
deliver torque from 20 up to 600 foot/pounds. They are, of
118 Parmenas Lane, Chattanooga, TN 37405

Toll Free 800-651-6904 FAX 423-648-1023 OFFICE 423-648-1005
WWW.BOSSMATE.NET
SnapOnFP 4/13/07 4:02 PM Page 21
Tool School
course, heavier in size and more commonly used for chores the Soft Santoprene elastomer grip provides increased
such as removing lug nuts, loosening stubborn bolts and driv- comfort during continuous use. The company’s 1/2-inch
ing heavy-duty steel fasteners. Twin Hammer Impact Wrench produces 350 foot/pounds
Campbell-Hausfeld, long time manufacturer of com- of torque, and the balanced twin hammers minimize
pressors and air tools, carries a full line. Their 3/8-inch vibration, providing a smoother operation with less
Extreme Duty Ratchet produces 55 foot/pounds of torque fatigue.
to remove and install nuts, bolts and spark plugs during Regardless of whether woodworking or mechanical
engine repair, tune-ups and radiator work. The heat- work, you’re sure to speed up your fastening chores with
treated component provides for increased durability and these new power fasteners.
COOL NEW HAND TOOLS

B&D’s Auto Wrench
Seeing is believing, and the new 8-inch Auto Wrench by
Black and Decker is one of those products. The first bat-
tery-powered adjustable wrench opens and closes with the
push of a button. This means no more guessing which
direction to turn the adjustment knob, or fumbling to
manually adjust the wrench. The patented technology
opens and closes the wrench jaws with the push of a but-
ton to quickly loosen or tighten nuts and bolts, even in is believing” came from. The Auto Wrench fits onto both
tight places. The first chore I used the tool for was an small and large nuts, and accommodates nuts and bolts up
under-cabinet vanity sink and that was where the “seeing to 1-inch wide. The Auto Wrench can also be manually
adjusted. Made of professional
heat-treated hardened steel and
engraved with both standard
and metric measurement
scales, the wrench comes with
two AAA batteries and pro-
duces 190 foot/pounds of max-
imum torque. It also comes
with a two-year warranty. Visit
www.blackanddecker.com.
Bionic Wrench
LoggerHead Tools’s new
Pro-Gear line of its award-
winning Bionic Wrench fea-
tures the company’s patented
Bionic Gripping technology,
which distributes force
around the flats of a fastener
ArrowFP.qxd 4/13/07 4:03 PM Page 23
Action ®
is forward thinking
Form follows function with the exclusive ergonomic design of PowerShot®
Forward Action® staplers. PowerShot® staplers, patent
protected worldwide, put the power over the staple where you need it!
PowerShot's design makes stapling easier by providing more control and less
user fatigue. Forward Action® eliminates the
kickback associated with rear action staplers and
requires only one hand to operate.
FORWARD ACTION®
Works WITH staple
Available at
home centers,
lumberyards
Model# 5700™ and
fine hardware
stores!
• Fires 1/4” thru 9/16” PowerShot® • Less User Fatigue
& Arrow® T50® Staples • Staples/Nails Remaining Window
• Drives 9/16” PowerShot® Brad Nails • Soft Grip Handle
• Low Actuation Force Required to Fire • Easy Load Staple Chamber
• Made in U.S.A.
UNITED STATES: 271 Mayhill Street, Saddle Brook, NJ 07663

CANADA: Jardel Distributors, Inc. 6505 Metropolitan Blvd. East, Montreal, Quebec H1P 1X9
UNITED KINGDOM: Unit 5, ZK Park, 23 Commerce Way, Croydon CR0 4ZS Surrey
www.powershot-tool.com
© 2005 ARROW FASTENER COMPANY, INC.
Tool School
COOL NEW HAND TOOLS

and automatically fits multiple sizes of nuts and bolts with the
squeeze of a hand. The Pro-Gear line also features an Interlock
mechanism that stays engaged while under torque load, and a nick-
el finish adds corrosion-resistance and durability. Like all
LoggerHead Tools products, they are made in America and guaran-
teed for life. In addition, the open-ended Bionic Grip wrench fits a
wide size range of pipes and tubes. Both are general-purpose tools
that can be used for repairs and maintenance in a variety of fields.
Visit www.loggerheadtools.com.
“Hawk” Ratchet-Action Pipe Wrench

This new ratchet-action pipe wrench, named the “Hawk” for its
talon-style pipe grip, enables one-handed operation for fitting,
adjusting, ratcheting, torquing and removal. The “Hawk,” from
General Tools and Instruments, features a spring-loaded jaw allow-
ing fast ratchet action and self adjustment to different pipe sizes.
The jaw itself is a patented three-point design that provides an extra
strong grip for increased torque, and the convenient thumb handle
allows for quick disengagement. The handle is also designed with a
molded-in valve shut-off key wrench. Visit www.generaltools.com.
Snap-On’s Super-Strong Dual 80

The new Snap-on Dual 80 is a brand-new engineering take on
a design most people have taken for granted. Featuring a dual
pawl design and an 80-tooth gear, the ratchet offers the
smoothest mechanism available in the industry and the high-
est strength. Professional technicans prefer pear-shaped ratch-
ets because they fit in tighter places than round-head ratchets,
but round head models typically have finer mechanisms
because the teeth are cut into the head of the tool. The design
is inherently weaker than a traditional gear and pawl setup, so
the choice has been between finer ratcheting or more
strength—until now. Where round head ratchets typically have
a 72-tooth mechanism, the Snap-on Dual 80's 80-tooth gear
means you can get a new bite in just 4-1/2 degrees. Compare
that with typical ratchets offering from 6-10 degrees. It means the Dual 80 will work in tighter
spaces and give you a better chance in real tough situations. Best-in-class strength is another
key benefit. With a maximum load capacity of 3,500 inch/pounds (more than 250
foot/pounds—think about the torque that an impact wrench is capable of), the Dual 80 is
close to double the ANSI standard for 3/8-inch ratchets. With the added advantage of a flexi-
ble head, it will become the go-to tool for many pros’ tool box. Visit www.snapon.com.
DIYcrownEDIT.qxp 4/13/07 4:43 PM Page 26
Do-It-Yourself By Matt Weber
Crown Moulding
Tips and Tricks
P opular in a wide variety

of styles, colors and
profiles, crown moulding can do
wonders to make a room “pop.”
However, some DIY’ers have trou-
ble matching the mitered angles
and installing the long trim boards
along the ceiling. Many find the
job frustrating or intimidating,
and shy away from the installa-
tion. This article takes a look at a
basic crown moulding installation,
and shows a few tips and tricks to
move the job along smoothly. I
started and completed this project
on a Saturday without any assis-
tance. Granted, I was working
with all “right” angles and no com-
pound miters, but for a basic
installation, this should illustrate
how do-able the project is, even
for a first-timer.
Planning
Fortunately, with ceiling trim
there are generally no doors or
other room openings with which
to contend. This simplifies the lay-
out somewhat, but you should
plan the layout with the intention of coping the inside corners. Since inside From basic layout to coping the
inside joints, here are a few
miter joints are very likely to open, coping the joints hides this problem. In techniques to help your next
a basic square-room installation, the first piece of crown should be installed crown moulding installation.
on the wall opposite the door with two square-cut ends butted tightly to the
wall surfaces. Then proceed around the room with the next adjacent pieces
having one square end and one coped end, which installs against the butted
first piece. This means that as someone walks into the room, they are pre-
sented with the best face of the crown joints on the opposite side of the
room. The final run of moulding, above the door, will have two coped
ends—but these are at the least noticeable locations in the room.
I should note it is difficult to successfully fit a piece of moulding that is
coped at both ends—even for a pro. To make this easier, you can fit each
EZaPeelFP 4/13/07 4:04 PM Page 27
Do-It-Yourself
coped corner on a separate

piece of moulding and cut a
scarf joint to join the two pieces
in a continuous run.
More on coping and scarfing
later.
Prepping First remove any existing

Naturally, you should take all trim and fasteners.
the linear measurements of the Next, mark the wall studs
room’s walls to determine how and ceiling joists you will
much moulding you’ll need. be nailing into.
And always purchase a few
extra sticks of moulding to
compensate for the waste cuts and for any mistakes you
make. Collect all materials and tools on site.
For a basic single-piece moulding installation, the
crown will install against the ceiling. (However, for
more complex built-up moulding profiles, you should
sketch your custom profile on paper, determine the
measurements and snap a level chalk line around the
room—but that’s another story).
Since the moulding I was installing was so small, I
masked the top of the ceiling in painter’s tape. This
served two purposes: First, the tape was wider than the
NEW! Vo
“Best N ted
ew
by WRLATool”
in 2005!
MORE TIPS FOR MOULDING AND TRIM

Smooth Cuts—For the best appearance, cut into the moulding. Fill the holes with caulk or wood putty.
finished face of the moulding to prevent tear-out. With Finishing—A variety of moulding finishes are avail-
power miter saws, use a fine-toothed blade. When cut- able. Many come prefinished and ready to install in
ting with a miter box, try candle wax or furniture polish white or a variety of woodgrain colors. If you choose to
to lubricate the blade. paint the moulding, some pros suggest painting the
Nail it right—On this job I was eager to test a new moulding prior to attaching it to the wall, citing that it
Kobalt belt-mounted CO2 regulator, so I used a pneu- is easier to touch up the painted moulding, once it is
matic finish nailer. You can pick up the regulators at installed. As for me, I painted after the fact because this
Lowe’s, and it’s like having a miniature air compressor was such a simple installation.
on your tool belt—a really clever idea to power air tools. Helping Hand—The job shown in this article was a
The regulator performed very well, and so did the nail- solo mission. I didn’t have any help handling the long
er for that matter. But a word of caution: You must be strips of moulding. If this is a problem, try looping a
extremely careful when using a powered nailer on trim. string around the
While it’s faster than a hammer and nail, the tip of the end of the molding.
nailer can also damage the trim, forcing you to repair Tack a nail along the
dings and dents on the new moulding. I admit, after wall near the ceiling.
installing the crown, I had some puttying to do. Then hook the string
A more traditional way to nail is with a finish hammer over the nail to tem-
and finish nails. Drive nails to within 1/4 inch of the sur- porarily hold it in
face of the moulding to prevent scarring the face. Then place while you fas-
use a nail set to drive all nails below the surface of the ten the moulding.
Do-It-Yourself
COPE CORNERS WITH A JIGSAW

The Speed-Cope coping jig makes use of a pow-
installed moulding, so I went around the room with a
ered jigsaw to create quick cope cuts in all sorts of
stud finder and pencil, marking the stud locations on
trim. The photograph demonstrates the EHT staff
the bottom edge of the tape. When I placed the mould-
ing over the tape, I could see my stud marking and coping base moulding, but the jig works just as well
know exactly where to nail. Second, after the moulding with crown moulding and chair rails. Speed-Cope’s
was completely installed, the tape was already in place pivoting cutting platform provides a flat, sturdy sur-
to mask my painting. Once the paint dried, I just cut face that mirrors the miter cut in the moulding,
away the excess tape. Whether or not you use this allowing the user to easily guide the jigsaw blade
method, you still need to mark the wall stud and ceil- along the edge of the profile. Simply make the miter,
ing joist locations—perhaps with tabs of tape—to guar- clamp down the moulding, mark the cut, align the
antee solid backing for your nails. jig platform and follow the profile with the jigsaw.
You can use a file to clean up any excess material to
When cutting the produce a clean coped
moulding on a joint much faster than
power miter saw,
position the strip using a traditional coping
“upside-down and saw.
backward,” so the For more information,
miter fence acts as
the house wall, visit www.speedcope.com
with the saw base or call 1-800-755-8146.
representing the
ceiling.
DO IT YOURSELF MAKEOVER FOR MIRRORS

Introducing the four
New Woodgrain Framing
Finishes with several
types of corner plates
to choose from as well
as the original Acrylic
Mirror Beveled Design.
The mirror never leaves
the wall!
MIRR.EDGE® A unique
system that will refresh
and beautify tired-look-
ing mirrors at a fraction
of replacement cost.
Available at
Please call for information

800-757-2990
WWW.MIRREDGE.COM
SwansonFP 4/13/07 4:04 PM Page 31
Do-It-Yourself
Another advantage of installing this small, simple pro- styrene substrate material, which not only makes it resist-
file is that it’s easy to fasten. Nailing into the upper and ant to moisture, but also extremely lightweight. So it did
lower edge, an air-powered finish nailer easily penetrated not take many nails to fasten it securely. However, this
the moulding and into the framing behind the wallboard. won’t always be the case. For larger, heavier moulding
Plus, I was using LP brand moulding that I picked up at profiles, you may need to install blocking behind the
the local building supply store. It’s made from a poly- moulding. Nail the triangular blocking to the wall studs
and top plate, placing them
every 16 inches. Then nail the
moulding into the blocking
(and framing if possible). This
technique comes in handy
when you can’t nail into a ceil-
ing joist because the joist runs
parallel to the moulding.
For long runs of moulding, scarf

together two strips and fasten
over a wall stud.
For inside corners, begin coping

the joint by marking the profile
on a 45-degree miter.
Cut away the waste area

with a coping saw.
DIYcrownEDIT.qxp 4/23/07 9:10 AM Page 33
Cutting and Installing profile, or shape, is duplicated to nest tightly against the
You can cut crown moulding with a miter box and face of the adjoining moulding for a “perfect” fit. Transfer
handsaw, or with a powered miter saw. I chose the latter, your measurement onto the intersecting end of the sec-
but the principles are the same with either tool. ond piece of moulding, and cut a 45-degree inside miter.
As noted earlier, start with the wall farthest from the Run a pencil along the mitered edge, marking the edges
room’s entry. Install the first run of moulding with square- and curves for better visibility. Clamp the moulding
cut ends, butting it against each
corner. Next, measure out from
the corner along the adjacent
wall (adding a couple of inches)
to find the rough length of the
coped moulding.
Coping is an alternative to
miters, in which the moulding
Use a file to fine-tune the

coped joint.
The coped joint should fit like a

perfect socket over the preceding
piece of moulding.
On outside corners, mark the

cut in place.
Do-It-Yourself
securely and use a coping saw to back-cut along the pen- snugly over the face of the first piece. After checking for
cil line, following the contours of the profile. Keep the fit on the wall, cut the uncoped end square and butt it
blade 1/16 inch to the waste side of the cutline. Then use against the far corner to meet another coped piece on the
a file to clean up the profile, revealing a shaped edge that next wall.
will be the only point of contact between the intersecting For outside corners on crown moulding, position the
moulding pieces. This should create a socket that fits moulding upside down and face up in the miter fence (or
miter box). You will be placing
the moulding so the ceiling-side
will be flat against the bottom of
the fence, and the wall-side will
be flat against the vertical back
fence. Ideally you will need to
make a 45-degree cut on one
end of one piece, and another
45 on the intersecting piece.
However, walls are often out of
square, so first check the angle
with an angle gauge and cut
accordingly.
Check the outside angle with an

angle finder, then cut a miter on
the second strip to match the first.
Run a nail set along the outside

miter joint to bend the fibers
inward and conceal the joint.
MittenFP 4/13/07 4:05 PM Page 35
Do-It-Yourself
One tip on outside corners: First cope the opposite end bead of carpenter’s glue to the joint and securing with fin-
of the moulding, hold it along the wall and butted against ish nails. You can then smooth the joint by running the
the preceding piece, letting the end run long over the cor- rounded edge of a nail set over it to press the fibers
ner. Mark the cutline where the moulding overhangs the closed. For thick, heavy mouldings or problem gaps, drill
corner. Then make a miter cut at that mark. Do the same pilot holes at the top and bottom of the joint, and drive
for the adjoining piece. Install the pieces by applying a 4d finish nails perpendicular through one moulding into
the end of the other.
For long walls, you’ll proba-
bly have to splice two or more
strips of moulding to cover the
entire span. This is done by
making an angled scarf joint.
Mark the moulding strips for
45-degree cuts that will position
the joint over a wall stud. Make
the miters in opposite directions
on the ends of the adjoining
pieces, so they fit together flush.
For a standard square room,
you can proceed around the
room, coping, butting and scarf-
ing until you’ve completed the
job. Then caulk all the seams
and polish it off with your
favorite finish.
A small hammer and finish nails

will work, or use an air-driven
nailer to fasten the crown.
Complete the project with your

preferred finish.
ArmstrongClark2FP 4/13/07 4:06 PM Page 37
FrontDoorFeatureEDIT.qxp 4/13/07 4:49 PM Page 38
Entry
LEVEL
The Ins and Outs of Installing
an Exterior Door
By Larry Walton
G etting you, your family and your friends in and out of the house is not the
only thing an exterior door is about. When you install a door you want it
to swing smoothly, latch tight, seal out the weather and be secure. You can
get a big head start on reaching these goals by choosing the right set-up to begin with,
and this usually means buying a pre-hung door.
What are the other options? If you are replacing an existing door and the jamb
(surrounding frame) is in good shape, you could replace just the door. But I would
not recommend this unless there are limiting circumstances, like a jamb that’s embedded
in a rock wall. Buying just the door generally means a lot more work and enough
frustration to teach the neighbor’s kids some colorful new terms. You will need to
bevel the door, mortise the hinges, drill the proper hardware backsets, mortise latch
plates, mortise strike plates and probably trim the door to length. There are other
installation factors as well, which involve the weather strip, door sweep and threshold.
It’s not impossible, but not much fun either.
For about $50 more than the cost of a standard entry door, you can get the same
door pre-hung and pretty much eliminate all of the hassles mentioned above. A pre-
hung door comes with a jamb, hinges, weather strip and threshold. The door is
already attached to the door jamb via the hinges, and usually already prepped for
door hardware with standard sized holes in the door face, door edge and jamb.
If you are replacing an exterior door, it’s usually best and easiest to completely
remove the old door and jamb, and treat the opening like new construction. The
rough opening (R.O.) should be 2 inches wider than the door not including the jamb.
Or stated another way, the door itself is 2 inches narrower than the framing opening.
For example, a common single entry door size is 3/0 or 3 feet, zero inches. The
opening width for this door should be 3 feet, 2 inches, which allows for the thick-
ness of the jambs plus room for shimming. Some more elaborate pre-hung doors are
available in decorative combinations that include one or two sidelites, and some with
an overhead transom.
Photo courtesy Therma-Tru Doors

In some ways installing a pre-hung exterior door can

be easier than installing an interior door, because there is
a threshold in place to hold the jamb together in a com-
plete rectangle. The basic principle behind this installa-
tion method is to get the hinge side of the door jamb
plumb, which in turn makes the threshold and header
level and the strike-side jamb plumb. plumb, you need to note
Here’s how it’s done: in which direction.
Step 4: Move the level
Step 1: Prepare the door away from the trimmer at
opening by removing any one point until the bubble
shims or nails sticking out is centered and note the
of the trimmer studs size of the gap to see how
(framing). Cut back any far the framing is out of
drywall that extends into plumb.
the opening. Step 5: Grab the door by
the brick mold and tip it
back while maneuvering it
into position.
Step 6: Line up the bottom
in the opening first and tip
the door into place.
Step 2: Use a 6-foot level to
check the hinge-side of the
trimmer for plumb.
Step 3: If the hinge side
trimmer proves to be out of
BRAVO Screens
by
■ Italian design, American made, great appearance

■ Patented clutch system that does not slam open
■ Quiet, smooth operation
■ Fits any size window or door
■ Virtually invisible when installed
■ Free shipping
■ Beautiful and easy to use
■ Limited lifetime warranty
www.bravoscreens.com
1-800-446-1626
PeekViewFP 4/13/07 4:07 PM Page 41
Step 7: With the door still

closed, tap the bottom into
place with your foot. It
should move in until the
back of the brick mold is
against the sheeting (the
layer of material behind the
siding).
Step 8: Swing the door
open so you can step
inside. The combination of the brick mold and the open Step 10: The gap between
door will hold the assembly in place. the door and the jamb
Step 9: While holding header should be the same
onto the top hinge, swing all the way across.
the door closed and look Step 11: Make sure the
at the top reveal (the gap door is against the hinge-
between the door and the side trimmer and note
header of the jamb). where there needs to be a
gap between the jamb and
trimmer (top or bottom)
to get the top reveal cor-
rect. In this case we are
expecting to move the
jamb away from the trim-
mer at the top because of
the level reading we took
earlier.
Step 12: Put a cedar shim
between the jamb and
GET THE BEAT BACK

It’s not uncommon for the dry-
wall to stick out beyond the jamb
at some point around the door
opening. There are several possi-
ble reasons for this condition. The
framing could be out of plumb;
the door could be warped a bit;
there may be something behind
the drywall, etc.
If it sticks out enough to inter-
fere with the casing, use a ham-
mer to beat back the drywall. Be
careful not to damage the drywall
outside of the area that will be
covered by the casing, and be
careful not to hit the exposed cor-
ner of the jamb.
Step 14: While push-

ing the brick mold
against the sheeting,
nail the jamb to the
trimmer near the bot-
tom hinge location.
Step 15: Swing the
door closed and check
how the door is sealing
against the weather strip on the strike-side jamb. After
trimmer where needed. In this case the door jamb need- checking that the door seals okay, you can fill gaps
ed to be shimmed at the top. Shims should be placed between the hinge side
near the hinges to strengthen the backing near the hinge. jamb and the trimmer
Step 13: While keeping pressure against the shim, swing and add some more
the door open and nail through the jamb at the shim nails.
location. Step 16: Before moving
on to secure the strike-
side of the jamb, it’s a
good idea to replace one
of the top hinge screws
with a 3-inch screw to
help hold the weight of
the door. Drill through
the jamb with a 3/16-
inch twist drill bit so the
screw bites into the
framing and not just
the jamb.
DunbartonFP 4/13/07 4:08 PM Page 45
Step 17: While pulling Step 19: Go outside

the jamb inward to and pull the door
keep the brick mold closed to check again
against the sheeting, how it is sealing against
fill the gap between the weather strip.
the strike-side jamb Adjust the bottom of
and the trimmer near the jamb in or out to
the top. improve the seal.
Step 18: Nail through Step 20: Fill the gap
the jamb at the shim between the jamb and
location. the trimmer just above
the threshold. Nail
through the jamb at the
shim location.
Do-It-Yourself
deck and wood restoration:
Excelle
for all s nt
pe
of woo cies
da
compo nd
sites!
Easy to you use cleaners
and restorers that guarantee professional results!
Proper wood restoration is not blasting water with a pressure washer. Proper cleaners, restorers,
and brighteners allow you to restore your wood surfaces with low pressure rinsing. Don't destroy
your wood by blasting, restore your wood with Deck Restoration Plus Wood Products!
We also supply you with step-by-step instructions and support to restore your wood
Ask about our Deck Restoration Plus do it yourself wood sealers!
866-440-3325 www.deckrestorationplus.net
Step 21: Close the door to check the gap between the
door and the jamb at the door latch location. Add
enough shim to get the gap right. In other words, match
the door-to-jamb spacing you can see at the top and bot-
tom of the door.
Step 22: Nail the jamb to the trimmer at the latch shim
location.
Step 23: Finally, nail the brick mold to the sheeting at

several places around the exterior of the door to complete
the installation.
LOW-STRESS LOCKSETS
Installing a pre-hung door makes lockset installa- Step 2: Pre-drill the holes
tion much easier. Make sure the lockset you install through the jamb with a
matches the door preparation. This will be deter- 1/4-inch drill bit, but do
mined by the backset (usually 2-3/8 inches) and the not penetrate the framing.
strike plate mortises in the jamb. Make the deadbolt This allows the screw to
more secure by anchoring the supplied security plate bite into the framing and
to the framing. not into the jamb.
The following hardware tips are designed to secure
the deadbolt plate, to avoid splitting the jamb by
pre-drilling and to prevent scratches by using the
right drill bits. Step 3: Fasten the
Step 1: Put the security plate through
security plate for the the jamb and into the
deadbolt in place framing with the sup-
with the off-cen- plied screws. These
tered holes on the over-sized screws
stop side (closest to combined with the
the weather strip). security plate gives the
This offset moves the deadbolt added
screws in line with strength, making it
the framing. Mark more difficult for
the holes. someone to kick in the
door.
The T-JAK becomes your hard working helper

for many difficult jobs. Do-it-yourselfers and
professional remodelers rave about this handy tool!
1-800-662-3557
www.tjak.com
Step 4: Pre-drill the Step 6: Extend the deadbolt partially before

jamb with a 5/32-inch installing the screws, which attach the inside latch
twist drill bit before mechanism to the sin-
installing the strike gle keyed cylinder on
plates to keep the the outside of the
screws from splitting door.
the jamb. Step 7: Using a bit
holder with a drive
guide is a good way to
Step 5: Install the finish plate over the deadbolt keep from scratching
security plate. the door knob when
installing the handset.
A 6-inch driver bit with
a smooth shank works
well, too, but be care-
ful to keep the shank
off of the door knob.
SkylightEDIT.qxp 4/13/07 6:02 PM Page 50
Room
with a View
Adding skylights to
an existing roof.
(or Two)
By Mark Clement
S kylights are a terrific addition to most liv-

ing spaces, especially if they open. The
natural light they let stream in is better
than anything that comes out of a bulb, the air they
allow to circulate is fabulous, and—if you’re
the ground. So, the first order of business is plan-
ning a safe route up to and down from the roof, and
creating a stable work area top-side. We did this
with ladders, roof brackets and a walk board.
Interior Layout. The skylight units have to be posi-
lucky—you get a nice view in the process. tioned at the proper height along the rafters for opti-
mum aesthetics, head room and view. And, unlike most
Assessing the Challenges other installations, the skylights shown here have no
There are four major challenges to prepare for shaft but instead will be wrapped with solid pine to
prepping for skylights: safety, layout, moving the match the room’s trim package. Finally, on this project
skylights and making the cutouts. there are two skylights on opposing planes of a hip roof,
Getting There. Skylight installation requires a so they need to be parallel and even with each other on
little more forethought than other projects, mostly the inside of the room. We did this by framing one then
because they usually get installed pretty far from using it as a control point to layout the other.
APA 4/13/07 4:09 PM Page 51
Moving the Units. The units installed in this project, rior then cut out the center rafter (see sidebar on pg. 54).
two Velux VS606 manually operable skylights, are what Next, I installed all my framing, then cut out the hole.
my roofers commonly refer to as 4-by-4s. This means The last thing I did was pre-set a screw in each corner of
they are about 4 feet by 4 feet. This also means that they the skylight so I could locate them on the roof later.
are big and really heavy, so planning and providing for Layout and Installation Details. The rough-opening
that is key when moving them into location on the roof. (RO) for the Velux VS606 is 44-3/4 inches wide by 46-
Moving them safely was accomplished by smart design: 1/4 inches tall. The unit centered between two rafters, so
The glass is removable. that was easy. To position it up and down along the rafter
Cut-Outs. Another challenge was tying the skylights I used a stick 46-1/4 inches long to show where the top
into the existing roof system—without tearing out and and bottom of the frame would be, then marked it when
destroying piles of old 3-tab shingles. By cutting back the the homeowner picked the location she wanted.
shingles and weaving in the flashing parts, I was able to Next, I struck a level
integrate with the roof system—with minimal invasion line across the top of the
and demolition. RO and made my marks
for headers—making
Positioning & Layout doubly sure that I made
Positioning Skylight #1 was pretty basic and somewhat 2-by’s on each rafter (top
arbitrary. I worked with the homeowner to establish the and bottom) to indicate
height she wanted, and that was that. What wasn’t so the header-side of the
basic was transferring the measurements for its mirror on line. I drove nails in the
the other side of the room. rafters on the pencil line
to hold my tape, and
Framing #1 pulled down to mark the
The instructions that shipped with the Velux VS606s bottom of the opening. With all four corners mapped
indicate that you should do a rough layout, then cut an out, I used a combination square to mark the exact cut
exploratory hole in the roof deck to line up the hole with lines on the rafters and cut the rafters.
the roofing material layout. Unlike many carpenters I Header Installation. Header installation is basic and
know, I’m a big fan of following directions to the letter, straightforward: Cut the pieces to length and install on
but sometimes site conditions require adaptation. your layout lines. Things get a little trickier when you try
Our first challenge was that it was winter (albeit a to add detail, such as a flared opening.
warm one), and the house was occupied. Second, I don’t I swiped the flared
like cutting out rafters opening detail from the
without adding the Velux instructions. You
replacement framing do it by installing a 2-by-
right away. I know you 6 on the flat next to the
can, but I don’t like to. RO line and installing
And finally, the home- the header behind it. On
owner wanted the sky- the front edge of the flat
lights where she wanted 2-by-6, add another 2-by
them. End of story. beveled 30 degrees as a
This meant that I did nailing board for drywall
all my layout on the inte- or trim.
MOVING SKYLIGHTS: WHAT NOT TO DO

I had a grand vision when I started this project. he didn’t give me was any pointers on what to do
Rather than run up and down a ladder all day, I rent- when this behemoth machine—and 2-wheel drive, I
ed an articulating man-lift. With the press of a button might add—sunk like a stone into the wet grass.
I could maneuver myself—and each skylight—45- After about 8-hours and a lot of help, I was finally
feet in the air quickly, safely and easily. However (and able to get the machine out of the mud. I came away
this is a big however), site conditions need to be with a lesson (and a landscaping repair.)
right in order for a piece of equipment that big to be First, unless it has been bone dry for weeks, get a
operable. 4-wheel drive model. They have bigger tires and, if
See, it had been raining and the ground was soft. they do get stuck—duh—they have 4-wheel drive.
The rental company delivered the unit, and I walked Second, if the company from which you rent the
through what I was going to do with the driver. He machine can’t determine which one is best for your
gave me tips and pointers, which were helpful. What site conditions, get the 4-wheel drive unit.
Almost Through. The last step inside is to pre-set a 3- Snap Lines.

inch deck screw in each corner of the framed opening. From the inside,
Don’t puncture the roof surface until you’re ready to drive the four cor-
complete the skylight installation. ner screws pre-set
earlier up through
Framing # 2 the roof deck and
With the headers shingles. Outside,
installed for Skylight snap lines between
#1, I used them as all the screws.
control points for Cut the Hole.
Skylight #2. A 6-foot Next use a circular saw and a blade you’re no longer fond
level was the key for of to cut through the roof decking. It goes without saying
transferring meas- that you should stand outside the lines when you’re cut-
urements across the ting, but I’ll say it anyway: Stand outside the lines when
room at the shortest cutting.
point—the ceiling. I made all the necessary marks then The roof decking
followed the same layout and marking process for is likely to fall inside
Skylight #1. in one large piece—
especially if it’s ply-
Out on the Roof wood—so make
The next step in the skylight installation is to cut the some provision on
hole. But, before climbing to the roof, safety is the first the inside for this as
priority. Make sure required. Either just
you know how to let it fall to an area
use your ladders that can take the hit,
properly and either or cut it out in smaller sections so someone on the inside
install roof brackets can handle them as they come free.
and a walk board, or This is also a primo place for safety glasses. Between
tie-off with a proper shingle granules and cutting nail shanks in half, there is
safety harness, or a lot of gnarly stuff flying around at very high speeds. The
both. last place you want it is in your eyes.
I used roof brack- Cut Back Shingles. The next phase of the project is to
ets and a walk board use a circular saw or Roofmate’s Shingle Saw (the ultimate
on this project. They roofing tool by the way!) to cut the shingles back 2-inches
provided an excel- from the hole on the sides and 3-inches on the top and
lent platform for bottom, to expose the roof decking.
staging tools and
materials and creat- Prep the Skylight
ed a barrier between There are three things to do to prep the skylight for
me and the ground, installation. First, remove the glass. This takes two peo-
a handy feature. ple and pressing a few tabs and buttons in the skylight
hardware, but it is well worth the effort. Set the glass safe-
ly aside for later.
Next, bend the mounting tabs back and clinch to the
side of the skylight frame.
Last, strip the flashing package off the glass and set
both aside carefully. You’re going to have a few little alu-
minum screws hanging around from the various flashings.
Here’s a handy tip: Keep them safely stored until needed by
embedding them in a scrap of rigid foam insulation.
Self-Adhesive Membrane Going up each side, I tucked a piece under the shin-
Velux recommends that a self-adhesive membrane be gles and over the bottom piece of membrane. When I
installed in all areas with severe weather. I live in an area reached the next layer of asphalt paper, I slid the Ice and
with severe weather and didn’t want to skip this step Water Shield under it directly over the roof deck.
(though I have installed many skylights long before the At the top, I
existence of self-adhesive membrane, and they didn’t tucked a piece of
leak). That is part of the reason for cutting the shingles membrane directly
back from the opening. over the roof deck,
Tuck and Peel. then folded it over
Starting at the bot- the side pieces.
tom of the opening, Once the pieces
I tucked 5-inch were installed, I
strips of Grace Ice & reached under the
Water Shield under shingles and peeled
the shingles and on the paper backing off, enabling the membrane to stick to
top of the asphalt the roof system. This was…well…frustrating, but it
paper. worked.
CUT-OUTS
I’ve remodeled and retro-fitted Fortunately the guys who built this
enough to know when to be care- house used 16-penny nails for
ful and when to whale away at their sheathing (I guess all the rail-
something. Ironically, I’ve found road spikes were being used!), so
one of the places I have to be
most careful is when I want to
have the most fun—demo. Alas,
the neater you are, the easier life is
later.
I wanted the headers to fit
square against the removed rafter
end, which means I needed a
square cut. To get a square cut, I
laid it out on the sides and bottom started the cut with my circular taking this rafter out was a bear.
of each rafter using one of my saw, placing the blade right on the The last step is installing the new
favorite layout tools, a 7-inch line and for a nice, low-impact header stock top and bottom.
Stanley combination square. I cut. Then, I finished the cut with I like doing it this way because I
my recip saw. can prep the job even in bad
weather. Or, if I have to leave for
some reason, the roof system is
still intact. The last step for fram-
ing the header—and to make my
inspector happy—is installing joist
hangers.
After the center rafter is cut, I

use a flat bar and my hammer to
pry it free (without prying the 100
year old roof decking free).
ArmstrongClark2FP 4/13/07 4:06 PM Page 55
If water did manage to get under the shingles and what I did was make
asphalt paper in the vicinity of the skylight, it would be a little shelf with my
caught by the membrane and have a way to flow out of flat bar so I could
the roof system. The last step is to slice diagonal slots in keep it within arm’s
the paper and fold it reach at all times.
back so you can Glass. Re-install
install the skylight the glass in the
frame. opposite order you
Again, this is an removed it before
extra layer of protec- installation. Make
tion—the flashing sure the chain is
should keep every- reconnected secure-
thing out—but hav- ly and that the glass
ing the membrane in itself is locked in
there too makes me place.
sleep better at night.
Install the Skylight Frame & Glass

With one person working from inside the house and
one working on the roof, pass the skylight frame through
the opening.
Frame. Set the
skylight in position
on the roof deck.
Double check that
the unit is centered
in the opening.
Fasten to the roof
deck with the sup-
plied nails. Then,
working from the
bottom up, wrap the
side of the frame Install the Flashing Kit
with membrane. I The flashing kit for the VS606 is Velux’s EDL+ and
added “patches” to works with shingles or shakes.
cover the corners Start by installing the sill flashing, then work your way
where the paper had up, weaving in the step flashing with each course of
been cut. shingles. Then, re-
Tool Tip: You need install the flashing
your hammer a lot package stripped
when installing a from the glass pre-
skylight, but you’re viously and finish
standing in a weird off with the head
position to reach flashing.
into your tool pouch It is key to get
a million times. So the head flashing
under all the layers
of shingles above
the skylight open-
ing, or you will
have a leak for sure.
Working it under
all those shingles
and asphalt paper
is tricky, but
doable. Carefully
pry up the shingles
SKYLIGHT RESOURCES
Bristolite Skylights Millwork For Less
1-800-854-8618 1-866-645-8885
www.bristolite.com www.millworkforless.com
Milgard Windows Solatube

1-800-MILGARD 1-888-SOLATUBE
www.milgard.com www.solatube.com
and nails with a flat bar and slide

the head flashing underneath.
Technique Tip: The screws
from the flashing package are
aluminum and don’t stick to
magnetic driver bit holders.
Backyard Project Plans
Consequently several of the ones F R O M T H E GA R L I N G H O U S E C O M PA N Y
supplied to me are waiting 30-
feet below in the yard with the
needle in the haystack. I used
3/8-inch lath screws as replace-
ments and sealed the tops of
them with roof cement to pre-
vent leaks and corrosion.
Shingles. This process can be GARAGES • DECKS • SHEDS • GAZEBOS • PLAYHOUSES & MORE
tough on shingles. Have a tube
of roof cement ready to roll to
make any quick repairs.
Test
If you’re going to have a leak, Each project includes detailed
it’s best that you know about it
before you take the ladders
down. I grabbed a garden hose
construction drawings, materials lists
and absolutely full-blast
drowned each window for five and step-by-step instructions, designed
minutes before coming down
from the roof. Not a drop got for the do-it-yourself contractor.
through, and after multiple driv-
ing rainstorms they are still dry
as a bone.
The skylights also provide the
homeowner a view that she didn’t
know was there. View our project plan dealer catalog and price list at
And that’s what skylights do
best. www.garlinghouse.com/dealers.
Mark Clement is a remodeler and

author of The Carpenter’s Notebook, National Hardware Show Special Offer
A Novel and Kid’s Carpenter’s Receive 20% off your first order of project plans.
Workbook, Fun Family Projects!
www.TheCarpentersNotebook.com. Call 800-235-5700 and mention Order Code HS7.
FenceFeatureEDIT.qxp 4/13/07 6:06 PM Page 58
Here’s how to install an

ornamental steel fence.
Good
Fences By Matt Weber
R obert Frost wrote, “Good fences make

good neighbors,” and the Minor fam-
ily of Birmingham, Alabama, decided
to be good neighbors. They selected an orna-
mental steel fence to follow the property line of
And always locate all underground utilities
before you dig, including lines for water, gas,
phone, electrical or cable TV. All locations
throughout the United States have an under-
ground utility locating service, and the service
their new home. The fence was chosen for its is usually free. Service personnel will come out
good looks and to provide safe stomping prior to digging your holes and locate any
grounds for the family dog. This meant the dog underground cables on your property.
could roam around the yard, while sparing the Also, clearly mark all legal boundaries taking
adjoining yards from any unwanted lawn fertil- into account any concrete fence footings, which
izer. Good neighbors, indeed. should not extend beyond your property. It’s a
We installed the fence over a long weekend, good idea to keep your fence four inches inside
and here’s how we did it. your property line.
When laying out the fence, sketch your site
Planning and Prepping plan on paper, including measurements, fence
Anytime you’re planning to erect an outdoor lines and notes for all post, corner and gate
structure you should check your local building locations. The fence system featured in this arti-
regulations. Contact the appropriate state or cle is the Montage Fence from Ameristar, which
local jurisdictions regarding mandatory set- comes with pre-assembled panels. The 8-foot
backs, permissible fence heights, style limita- panels were designed to connect to the metal
tions or required permits. posts with special brackets, so no welding was
Lay out your fence plan with stakes and string.

If you plan to use standard gate hardware,
then square up the corners using the 3-4-5
Rule. For corners that are not square, you can
use special swiveling brackets to install the
fence panels against the posts.
We marked the post locations with spikes

and spray paint.
required. On our site plan, we simply marked post loca-

tions following the property line every 96-3/4 inches
(according to Ameristar’s instructions). When the prop-
erty limit didn’t leave room for an entire 8-foot panel, we
shortened the span between posts with the intent of cut-
ting the panels to size when it came time to install.
With our plan completed, we then used stakes and
string line to mark the fence location. For a 90-degree
corner, make sure the corner is square using the the 3-4-
5 method: Mark one string at three feet from the corner.
Mark the second string at four feet from the same corner.
Adjust the two strings so the distance between the two
marks is exactly five feet, which ensures a right angle. (If the rocks we resorted to a 5-foot iron wrecking bar—
you prefer a fence with corners at out-of-square angles, basically a heavy-metal spear that we used like a manual
you can use special swiveling brackets to connect the jackhammer. A handheld post-hole digger helped to
fence panels to the corner post.) clear the hole of dirt. All of this digging was really tough
work—17 holes—and it was easily the longest and hard-
Breaking Ground est phase of construction.
We marked all post locations on the ground with spray The holes provided our rough measurements for the
paint and spikes, and drilled the post holes. This was post locations, but I wanted a firm figure to measure the
tougher than it sounds. Each post needed to be at least 2 distances. I assembled two posts and a panel on the
feet deep and 8 inches wide. And we had to dig through ground, and lined the connecting brackets in the center
the tough clay and rock of a new subdivision that was of their screw slots to afford myself a little “fudge” room.
built into a mountainside. We rented a gas-powered The distance from inside post face to the other inside
auger, and although it did speed things up, it also kept post face was 94-1/2 inches. This would be our magic
jamming against big baseball-sized rocks. To break out number. (We measured the 4-foot gate separately.)
We rented a gas-powered auger to speed up

the digging process. When the auger stopped
against an obstruction, we resorted to using a
large wrecking bar to break out the hard rock.
RockyTopFP 4/13/07 4:15 PM Page 61
Ameristar2FP 4/13/07 4:16 PM Page 62
Ameristar2FP 4/13/07 4:16 PM Page 63
Use a grease pencil or crayon to mark the We pre-assembled a panel to determine To anchor the posts we mixed concrete in
ground height on the fence posts. the distance we needed from post to post. a CreteSheet, using 80 lbs. per post hole.
Posting Up water back and forth, the concrete blends to a cookie-

Next, we anchored the fence posts in concrete. dough consistency. Then tilt the sheet to pour the mud.
Following the supplied fence instructions, we began by We used an 80-pound bag per post. This being our first
making a ground mark on each post 61 inches from the time using the CreteSheet, I had my doubts about this
bottom of the post cap. The mark indicates where the mixing method, but I am now convinced. When working
post should line up with the surface of the ground when with a helper, the sheet method is much faster, easier and
setting it in concrete. more effective than mixing concrete in a wheel-barrel
To mix the concrete, we used a plastic CreteSheet, with a shovel.
which is basically a wide, thick plastic sheet with four We first poured a shallow bed of concrete, then placed
handles. To use, simply pour in the concrete mix and add the first post and squared it with the fence line. We
water according to the mix instructions. Our mix plumbed the post and poured the remaining concrete,
required one gallon of water for every 80 pounds of con- troweling a slope in the concrete to drain away rainwater.
crete. After adding the water, grab the sheet by two of the We then set the post at the next corner of the fence. With
handles and have a helper do the same on the opposite both corners secured, we ran a new string line from post
side. As the two of you lift the sheet and roll the mix and to post, flush with the rear faces of the posts. Installing all
With the help of a partner, the sheet Make sure to set the posts plumb. Kapro’s Keep the posts lined up, and measure to
method makes quick work of mixing Post-Rite Level features multiple vials on ensure the distances between them are
and pouring the concrete. two faces of the post for easy reading. uniform until you reach the corner.
the remaining posts flush against this new string line mallet. Re-check for plumb using a 4-foot carpenter’s
would keep the fence straight. level for accuracy. We would proceed in this manner for
We then installed the second post in line, but meas- each run of the fence until we hit a corner. At the corner,
ured between it and the first corner post. We measured you’ll likely end up with a distance shorter than a full 8
between the inside faces of the posts, at both the top and foot panel. That’s okay; just install the corner post and
bottom. We were looking for our magic number—94-1/2 move along. You’ll cut that panel to fit.
inches. If the distance was too far, we had to move the I should stress, you should double-check that your
post inward. If we were too close … You get the idea. posts are plumb. Also re-check your post-to-post dis-
And, we had to keep the post plumb while we adjusted tance and keep the posts lined against the string line. The
it. Tool Tip: The magnetic Post-Rite level from Kapro fea- proper post placement is critically fundamental to the
tures plumb vials on two sides of the post for easy read- installation of your panels. If they’re out of line, you’ll
ing; plus it’s a hands-free tool, a real timer-saver. have problems. But if the posts are lined up, spaced cor-
Once we were confident with the post position, we rectly and plumb, then the rest of the installation is easy.
poured the concrete and then re-measured the post dis- After all the posts are set, allow the concrete to cure for
tance. You can make minor adjustments with a rubber at least 24 hours and then bolt on the panels.
Adding the Panels

The fence panels connect with stan-
dard bolt-on gate hardware—universal Double-check all posts for plumb
metal brackets, which slip over the tops using a 4-foot carpenter’s level.
of the posts. Line up the bolt holes on Before the concrete sets, you can
make minor adjustments to the post
the bracket with the holes on the ends with a rubber mallet.
of the fence panels and insert the sup-
plied carriage bolt. When you have the When the concrete has cured, install
the fence panels. We initially fastened
bracket and fence panel in its desired all the panels level, and then later
position on the post, just tighten the adjusted them to follow the grade of
bracket connection with the supplied the property (a special feature of the
Montage Fence System).
hex nut. The Montage system uses
three brackets on each side of each
panel. When all the brackets are prop-
erly positioned and tightened, lock
each bracket in place by driving a self-
drilling screw through the bracket and
into the side of the fence post. Tool Tip: For fastening
we used a new 14.4-volt impact wrench and an
impact driver, both from Hitachi. These tools are
lightweight and compact, so they’re easy to lift, but
they deliver a lot of torque, which is ideal for quick
assembly.
With most traditional metal fences, the only way
the fence can follow sloping terrain is through custom
fabrication. However, the Montage System has a spe-
cial “all-terrain” feature to address a sloping grade. We
CreetSheet 4/13/07 4:18 PM Page 67
We installed the fence panels using

the supplied standard gate hardware
(brackets, nuts and bolts).
The gate installed with similar hard-

ware that featured large hinge pins.
initially installed the Montage panels completely level to two inches above the ground, and it should swing freely
make sure our post-to-post distances worked with all the to and fro.
panels. Then we readjusted the panels so the bottom For the remaining fence spaces that are too narrow for
edge of the fence follows the slope of the property. The mounting a full panel, measure the distance between
pickets in the Montage panels actually pivot on the rails. posts, inside face to inside face. Subtract 1/2 inch, and
This means you can “rake” the panels. In other words, the remainder is the length to cut the partial panel. Place
you can install one edge of the panel at a different height the panel on a sturdy surface, clamp it securely, and have
than the other side of the panel, and the rails tilt so the a helper hold the panel down to minimize the vibration
pickets stay upright and plumb. This smart design allows while cutting. You can use a hacksaw, but we used a
the bottom of your fence to follow the slope of the Sawzall with a metal-cutting blade to trim the panels.
ground, eliminating any gaps at the bottom of the fence Make sure the rails extend equally from the last picket at
panels. both ends of the panel. After cutting, drill new 5/16-inch
The Minor family also opted for a 4-foot fence gate, bolt holes about 3/4 inch from the end of each panel rail.
which mounted very similarly to the panels. You’ll need Remove any burrs and then mount into the brackets as
to preassemble the gate and surrounding posts on the usual. At the areas where you cut, apply a coat of zinc-
ground to determine your exact spacing, and install the rich primer, and then after it dries, spray on a color-
posts accordingly. Since the gate posts are the weakest matching topcoat.
point of the fence, make sure to use a full 80 pounds of
concrete to anchor each post. When hanging the gate,
just bolt on the supplied large hinge brackets instead of
the standard panel brackets. Attach the hinge pins
approximately 8 inches from the top and bottom of the
gate post. The only connection on the opposite side of
the gate is the bolt-on latch. Keep the bottom of the gate
TOOLS
• String Line • Post-hole Digger
• Stakes • Wrecking Bar
• Measuring Tape • CreteSheet
• Grease Pencil (or crayon) • Trowel
• Carpenter’s Level • Crescent or Impact Wrench Cut the odd-sized panels as needed. We used a
• Eye Protection/Gloves • Power drill/driver Sawzall with a metal-cutting blade, but a hacksaw
will also work. Then drill new bolt holes for the
• Pocket Calculator • Reciprocating saw panel brackets.
• Power Auger or Hacksaw
At the ends of the fence you can install

end posts, or mount the panel into the
side of the house. Although the ground beneath this
Given the handsome look and sturdy fence was basically flat, we did adjust
performance of the finished project, the the height of the panels somewhat
Montage system turned out to be a qual- to follow the slope. A key benefit of
this particular fence system is that
ity fence that’s easy to install—recom- the panel rails pivot to adjust to the
mended for a first-time fence raiser. The slope (bracket height along the
toughest part of the job was digging the post), while the pickets stay plumb
and orderly.
holes, but I guess there’s no way around
that. In the end, the dog had a place to
play, the Minors had a nice new fence,
and their neighbors need not invest in a
poop scoop.
Resources:
Ameristar,
www.montagefence.com
Hitachi Power Tools,

www.hitachipowertools.com
Kapro Industries,
www.kapro.com
SDS Corporation,
www.cretesheet.com
ProjectNextEDIT.qxp 4/13/07 6:12 PM Page 70
Project Next By Matt Weber
New Floor in a Snap

Install a new laminate floor with the look of traditional hardwoods.
Simple Steps to Clean and Stain
A friend of ours here at

the EHT headquarters
decided he wanted a new hard-
wood floor, but wasn’t excited
about the hassle of installation or
the high-price of contracting the
labor. The solution was laminate
hardwoods. Laminate flooring
offers the classic look of solid
hardwoods, but it fastens together
seamlessly, without the mess of
glue. The floorboards simply snap
together using a tongue-and-
groove system. The interlocking
planks create a strong, tight joint
that secures the flooring from wall
to wall. The result is a beautiful
new upgrade to the room. And the
quick installation makes adding a
new laminate floor ideal for the
weekend warrior.
Laminate flooring is manufac-
tured from high-density fiber-
board planks covered with decora-
tive laminate sheeting and a clear
plastic wear layer. Choose from a
wide variety of wood appearances,
such as oak, cherry, walnut, beech
and many other options. And
many new laminate flooring lines show remarkable attention to detail “Snap-together” laminate hard-
with the textures of the top surface. You’ll find a wide range of ultra-real- woods combine a traditional
look with easy installation.
istic textures that look and feel like real wood, including worn, rustic
looks and high-gloss finishes.
Durability is another key feature. Many laminate flooring products are
impervious to most stains and very resistant to scratches. The boards are
prefinished at the factory and often feature a built-in edge sealant that
protects against moisture absorption. Some laminate flooring manufac-
turers even offer a lifetime wall-to-wall warranty against wear-through,
stains, fading and water damage from everyday spills and damp mopping.
It turned out that laminate flooring was just what this homeowner was
looking for, and he chose the Pergo Select brand of flooring in a “Smoked
Oak” style. Here’s how we installed it.
BHK 4/13/07 4:19 PM Page 71
Project Next
Stick with a Plan To cut the door jambs
Your first step is to lay out a floor plan. to allow clearance for
Sketch the room on paper and mark the the floor, we used a
RotoZip equipped with
dimensions. Calculate the square footage a flush-cutting attach-
you’ll need, and then order extra to account ment.
for unusable cut planks, as well as providing
After prepping the
some extra material if damaged planks need floor, we installed the
to be replaced in the future. Also make note foam underlayment. If
of the different transitions in the room where installing over concrete,
a moisture barrier
the laminate will meet other types of floor- would be required
ing or exterior doors. The home store where between the subfloor
you purchase the flooring will usually have and underlayment.
transition moldings for these areas.
Once the flooring is on site, allow the
unopened cartons of planks to remain in the
room where they are to be installed at least 48 hours prior to
installation. This allows the flooring to shrink or swell slightly,
according to the climate of its new home.
Laminate can be installed over most flooring surfaces, but
always remove carpeting and remove any wood flooring that is
installed over concrete. In this case, we dealt with carpet
removal, which meant pulling up about 10 billion staples that
held down the pad—no fun at all.
Next, make sure the subfloor is clean, dry and level. We got off
easy, because this floor was going in the second-story entertainment
S
STOP
TOP MOWING
THAT
T YARD!
IT MOWS. YOU DON'T.
WWW.BAMABOTS.COM
(877) 383-6054
Call or email info@bamabots.com for a free DVD
MENTION THIS AD FOR A SPECIAL DISCOUNT!
72 EXTREME HOW-TO
MPglobalFP 4/13/07 4:19 PM Page 73
Project Next
Cut the registers out of the underlay-
ment so nobody accidentally steps into
the concealed hole.
When it’s time to install the floor, cut

the tongues off the first row of planks.
room, which had a nice, flat plywood subfloor. The lam-

inate planks must fit together correctly to ensure an even
finished surface and a seamless appearance, so a flat sub-
floor is critical. Check for level with an 8-foot straight-
edge laid across the subfloor. Most manufacturers rec- changes in humidity, the planks aren’t installed tightly
ommend no more than a 3/16-inch difference in height against the walls of any room. You’ll need to leave a 1/4-inch
between any two points in a circle with a 20-foot diam- gap against the wall around the edges of the flooring to
eter. If the floor isn’t this level, you’ll need to fill low allow for the expansion. The spacing must be maintained at
spots or grind down high spots before installing the every wall in the room. Once the flooring is completely
flooring. Building paper can be used to fill low spots less installed, base moulding and/or quarter-round can be rein-
than 1/4-inch deep, but you’ll need a Portland cement- stalled over the edges to conceal the gap. We used Pergo’s
based leveling compound to fill deeper depressions. Installation Spacers lined against the wall to ensure consis-
Damp floors present another problem for installation. tent spacing. You can also use wood strips.
In the project shown, we installed above a finished base- Next step: Undercut the doorjambs and casing to
ment, so we had no moisture problems to worry about. This allow room for the thickness of the new flooring. A pull
might not be the case with a concrete slab, so make sure the saw works for this job, enabling you to get close to the
subsurface is dry. Check the moisture content of concrete floor to make the cuts. You can also rent an electric jamb
floors by taping the edges of a 2-foot polyethylene square saw. For this project we used a RotoZip equipped with its
over the concrete. After 24 hours, if no signs of moisture new flush-cutting attachment, which worked like a
buildup or discoloration appear beneath the plastic, the charm. Determine the required depth of undercut by
floor is probably dry enough. Otherwise, seal it. stacking a scrap of flooring on top of a piece of foam-
Also, remove any existing base trim along the walls. cushion underlayment and using it as a saw guide, rep-
Because the flooring will expand and contract due to resenting a small, workable sample of the final installed
We placed a “dry run” of loose planks to make sure we didn’t To stagger the joints from row to row, we began the second
have too small of a final plank at the opposite wall. row with a plank cut to 12 inches long.
Maintain a consistent expansion gap around the flooring

by using spacers between the walls and the planks.
To install the planks, insert the long tongue into the

groove of the preceding row. Tilt downward to lock the
joint together. Then slide the plank, pushing its short
tongue into the preceding short groove.
floor. Leave an additional 1/4-inch of space concealed

beneath the doorframe to allow expansion.
Laying the Laminate

On concrete subfloors, use 6-millimeter polyethylene
film as a moisture barrier. Create an 8-inch overlap to
join sheets of film when covering the subfloor. The film
is needed over all subfloors that contain concrete, even if
the concrete is covered with vinyl, linoleum tile or other
type of flooring. Again, we were on second-story ply- end joint and rotate the plank downward. Continue this
wood, so we skipped the moisture barrier and went with each plank until Row 1 is complete. You’ll probably
straight to the underlayment. have to cut the last plank to length.
All laminate floors require a foam underlayment to pro- I should point out that you should follow the directions
vide extra comfort and noise reduction. Some brands of of your particular product, because laminate flooring does-
flooring even have underlayment attached to the under- n’t always install exactly the same. But for this project, we
side of each plank. For this job, it came in a roll. Cover the then cut the first plank of Row 2 to 12 inches. Start Row 3
subfloor with underlayment to the edge of the wall, with a cut length of 24 inches. On Row 4, start with a full-
butting the edges and securing the seams with duct tape. length plank again. Repeat this process throughout the
Before beginning the planks, measure the width of the room to keep the joints consistently staggered.
room to make sure the last row of flooring will be at least To join the planks of Row 2 to Row 3, insert the long
2 inches wide. Divide the width of the room by the width tongue of Row 2’s first plank into the groove of Row 1 until
of the exposed face of the flooring. The remaining num- the laminate edges meet, and then press downward until
ber will be the width of the last row. If the last row is less the joint locks. There should be no gaps at the joints.
than 2 inches, cut the first row of boards narrower to After completing Row 1, installation gets a little trick-
allow more room for the last. ier because you have to join both tongues—on the side
We also laid out a “dry run” of planks to make sure we and at the ends. To do so, first insert the long tongue of
didn’t have a tiny sliver of flooring at either end of the Row 2’s second plank into the Row 1 groove and rotate
room. According to Pergo’s instructions, the flooring planks downward. Then, kneel on the first plank of Row 2 while
should have joints staggered by 12 inches, so calculate the you push together the end joint of the second plank into
first three rows to make sure the staggered joints won’t the first.
result in a plank shorter than 6 inches at either wall. If nec- Once Row 2 is complete, install Row 3 in the same
essary, adjust your layout so this is not the case. manner, but cut the first board to keep the joints stag-
We then assembled the first row of planks with the gered. Repeat the installation from row to row through-
tongue side toward the starting wall. However, the out the room, always keeping the joints staggered.
tongues weren’t actually there anymore—we cut the Unless you’re really lucky, you’ll probably have to rip the
tongues off the first row with a circular saw. But these last row of planks to width, and using a table saw is your
planks have two tongues, one on the side and one on the best bet for that operation. You can also use a jigsaw to
end. To install the first row, begin with full length planks. notch planks to fit around various corners or other
Insert the end tongue into the groove of the first plank’s obstructions in the floor.
Project Next
Occasionally you’ll end up with a stubborn plank that Another tough spot is installing the last plank on each
doesn’t want to “click” together easily at the tongue-and- wall. These planks present a problem because the wall
groove joint. You can join these with a wood block and a obstructs where you need to be in order to push the end
hammer. Align the tongues into the grooves of the short joint together. This means you need a pull bar to pull the
and long sides. Place the block no closer than 8 inches last plank into the joint. We used a tool called the Lam-
from either end of the plank and tap along the side until Hammer, a specialty tool designed explicitly for this pur-
the joint is closed tightly. pose. It hooks the end of the plank and allows you to jerk
You can encourage stubborn T&G

joints to lock by using a hammer a
wooden block.
For tricky end planks, we pulled

them into place with a special tool
called a Lam-hammer.
it into the joint with its sliding

handle. The Lam-Hammer made
quick work of these tricky
planks.
After the floor was complete,
the result was really striking—a
beautiful new floor that took only
a weekend to install—and we did
it ourselves. You can, too.
Resources:
Lam-hammer,
www.lam-hammer.com,
1-888-687-2421
Pergo,
www.pergo.com,
1-800-33-PERGO
RotoZip,
www.rotozip.com,
1-877-ROTOZIP
RheemFP 4/13/07 4:20 PM Page 77
MaterialMarketEDIT.qxp 4/13/07 6:15 PM Page 78
Material Market By Tom Matthews
Cutting Costs by Building Smart

New materials, smart building practices save money on energy bills.
E nergy-efficiency is a hot
topic these days. The
campaign is everywhere from
hybrid cars to ex-vice presidents.
But politics aside, one thing we
can all get on board with: lower
energy bills. Concerned home-
owners can now look for materials
and appliances with the Energy
Star logo—a government-backed
symbol indicating the item in
question has met the Department
of Energy’s stringent criteria to be
dubbed an “energy-efficient”
product. More than 50 different
product types carry the Energy
Star logo, including appliances,
lighting, windows, doors, and
heating and cooling equipment.
In fact, the U.S. Environmental
Protection Agency (EPA) is now
working with homebuilders across
America to erect Energy Star
homes, constructed with the certi-
fied products and materials.
According to the EPA, by purchas-
ing an Energy Star-qualified home,
“you can have all the features you
desire in your home, plus lower utility bills—all while helping to pre- From Low-E windows to
vent greenhouse gas emissions.” These Energy Star-qualified homes advanced insulation, the right
materials can cut utility costs.
reportedly deliver $200 to $400 in annual savings.
Of course, most of us don’t live in these “qualified” homes, but we
all want to cut down on energy bills. To that end, we can apply many
aspects of the Energy Star initiative to our existing homes. Homes that
earn the Energy Star incorporate a variety of features, and the follow-
ing top the list:
High-Performance Windows
Windows with advanced coatings and construction help keep heat
in during winter and out during summer. Energy Star windows also
block damaging ultraviolet sunlight that can discolor carpet and fur-
nishings. “Older windows can lose their efficiency,” says Bill Lazor,
AimInfernoFP 4/13/07 4:21 PM Page 79
Material Market
senior product manager with Simonton Windows. “They
can actually suck the life and energy out of a home, caus-
ing heating and cooling bills to soar.” Lazor notes that
windows should typically be replaced about every 20 to
25 years.
The ideal window selection for homeowners is an
insulated glass unit made of at least two pieces of glass
sandwiched together with a thermal spacer and then
filled with either an Argon or Krypton gas. “Gas-filled
insulating units, where the invisible gas is hermetically
sealed in the window unit, is an excellent barrier,” says
Lazor. “The more barriers that separate the inside of your
house from the exterior, the stronger your protection
from heat gain or loss.”
Double-pane windows
filled with Argon gas The right glass is another issue. “Low-E glass is a ‘must’
provide an excellent if you want to maximize the energy efficiency of your
energy barrier. windows,” says Lazor. “Tinted and clear glazings (or
(Photo courtesy
Simonton Windows) coatings) help prevent the transference of heat, cold and
sunlight into the home.” The transparent metallic oxide
coating on the glass surface allows short-wave energy to
pass through but reflects long-wave infrared energy.
Effective Insulation
The right insulating material keeps you cool in the
summer and warm in the winter, without overworking
Unleash the Beast on Your Insulation Project

Portable, Disposable, Closed-Cell Polyurethane Foam Insulation Kits
• New Construction / Retrofit • Metal Buildings

• No power or machine required • Pipes within Pipes
• Cavity Fill • Soundproofing & Vibration
• Flotation • ASTM E-84 Fire Rated
• Refrigeration • Economical and easy to use
• Cold Storage • Highway, Bridge and Pipeline
• Highest R-Value • Boats, Ships, Spas
• Moisture Resistance (perm 1.2) • 100s of uses…
Visit www.tigerfoam.com for more information

Or call us at: 800-664-0063
Tiger Foam: Because it’s a jungle out there!
your HVAC system. Properly installed and inspected Tight Construction and Tight Ducts
insulation in floors, walls and attics ensures even tem- Advanced techniques for sealing holes and cracks in
peratures throughout the house, while using less energy. the home’s exterior envelope and in heating and cooling
This means a cozier and quieter home. ducts can do wonders. Tight ducts and construction help
Although fiberglass insulation batts are an acceptable reduce drafts, moisture, dust pollen, pests and noise. A
insulation method, the batts allow air to flow, and can tightly sealed home also improves the overall comfort
also compress and sag, which reduces the R-value. Or and air quality of a home’s interior. Some simple mainte-
worse, fiberglass and cellulose insulation can both nance can pay off big. Caulk all windows, doors and wall
absorb moisture, leading to mold growth. As an alterna- penetrations. Add weather-stripping where necessary to
tive, many homeowners are choosing the newer spray obstruct air flow. Use a can of spray foam insulation to fill
foam insulation. any large wall cavities.
For a better thermal envelope, the sprayed-in polyurethane When it comes to ductwork, many homeowners have
foam expands to about 100 times its original volume to fill air drafty and noisy metal ducts, but fiberglass is another
gaps between the framing studs in the walls and attic. By con- option. Fiberglass ducts can offer 75 percent more ener-
forming to cavity shapes and sealing around wall features, gy efficiency than plain sheet-metal. Fiberglass ducts also
spray foam insulation reduces air infiltration much better deliver air where it belongs, reducing hot and cold spots
than standard fiberglass batts. That’s a big benefit, considering in the house, and they reduce air leaks because they’re
that government energy reports estimate 40 to 50 percent of sealed eight times better than metal ducts.
a home’s heating and cooling loss results from air flowing The house foundation is another notorious problem
through the building envelope. Spray foam insulation is also area. For example, while many homes have poured con-
non-toxic and usually has a lifetime guarantee. crete or block foundations, these basements can leak air
And as the house expands and contracts over time, so does and water. One new method of construction is the Xi wall
the foam insulation. This eliminates cracks and spaces for foundation system from Superior Walls. Made with Energy
warm air to escape. For more information on spray foam Star-qualified DOW Styrofoam, the Xi systems are steel-
insulation, visit www.sprayfoam.org. reinforced concrete panels that create a permanent barrier
Material Market
ICF construction utilizes special forms to build a

5-inch concrete wall combined with 4 inches of
polystyrene foam insulation.
against sidewall water penetration in the home. Factory-

constructed and delivered to the jobsite, the panels are
custom designed to complement any architectural style.
“The Xi wall is the most advanced wall system available,”
says Aaaron Schoenebereger, director of marketing for
Superior Walls. “Nearly every part of the foundation wall
is insulated, including the corners, studs and bond
beams.” Learn more about the new Xi system at
www.superiorwalls.com.
For new home construction, modern building tech-
nologies are making buildings “tighter” than ever, and that
goes beyond just the foundation. An increasingly popular
alternative to wood or steel frames is ICF construction, or
the use of Insulated Concrete Forms. The technology is
just what it sounds like. Built using special forms, a typi-
cal ICF system is 4 inches of polystyrene foam insulation
combined with a 5-inch concrete wall, and rates above R- Looking to the Future
17 at average 75-degree test temperature. Plus, air infil- With energy efficiency topping the minds of so many
tration in an ICF home is minimal due to the continuous homeowners and prospective homebuyers, some builders
air barriers provided by the insulation and the concrete. are adding solar thermal and photovoltaic technologies to
This combination of high R-values, low air infiltration their new homes. These homes become power producers,
and the high thermal mass of the concrete walls is drawing closer to the EPA’s goal of building homes that pro-
believed to account for 25 to 50 percent in energy savings duce as much power on an annual basis as they consume.
of ICF versus wood or steel-framed homes. Homes that are attempting to reach this goal are called Zero
Energy Homes (ZEH), and you can expect to see more and
More Efficient Heating and Cooling more of these in years to come. New approaches and tech-
When properly installed and Energy Star-certified, you nologies have made solar thermal and photovoltaic an inte-
can expect higher quality and greater durability backed gral part of the house. These modern systems don’t stick out
by longer warranties on many new heating and cooling at odd angles or make the houses look drastically different
systems. Homes built with the Energy Star Indoor Air than their neighbors. With all the new energy-efficient tech-
package include properly engineered system sizing, nology combined with smart building practices, tomorrow’s
improved duct and equipment installation, improved fil- quality-constructed homes promise to look and perform
tration, and whole-house and spot ventilation to dilute better than ever.
and remove indoor pollutants. For more information on how to cut energy costs, visit
Alternative systems, such as wood-burning stoves, can www.energystar.gov/homes. There, you can also learn how
also provide an energy-efficient means of heating. The qualified energy-efficient home improvements can earn tax
same can be said for radiant heat systems, as well as credits through the Energy Policy Act of 2005, which has
zone-heating used with a hearth system. now been extended through December 31, 2007.
EverythingAutoFrameEDIT.qxp 4/13/07 6:18 PM Page 84
Everything Auto By Larry Walton, Photos by Bruce Smith
Rust Resistance
R ust. It’s the bane of anyone

doing restoration work.
Concern about the destructive
effects of corrosion to iron-based
materials has been around as long as
man has worked with iron and steel.
Amazingly, this extremely tough and
versatile material can be brought
down with the simple combination
of water and oxygen.
The concept of rust prevention
can be as simple and as challenging
as a coating that seals the metal from
environmental exposure. Such a coat-
ing calls for a product that sticks read-
ily and is both tough and flexible.
That’s what we were searching for
during a frame-up rebuild of a long-
term pickup project and came across a
cool product called “Chassis Saver.”
To use Chassis Saver, make sure
everything you plan on coating is
ready to go before opening the can.
This means remove most of the rust
and undercoat from the frame (see
“Soda Blasting” on page 87).
After preparing the surface for
coating, you’ll need to mask the
parts you don’t want coated. Since
our frame was a salvage job, we
weren’t concerned about brake and requires a large tip opening on the For this project “right after use”
suspension components that were gun. We used a No. 1.7 tip but we means immediately. Even the 10 to
slated for replacement. But you may had to thin the coating quite a bit. A 15 minutes the manufacturer sug-
need to cover up some parts. No. 2 tip is better. gests between coats is too long to let
The same goes for your body— Next, make sure you have your the gun sit. “Unless you are contin-
you’ll need to cover up some parts. A cleaning plan ready to employ. uously running the fluid through it,
full respirator, hood, face shield and “If you don’t know how to take it’s going to set in the needles and
coveralls are highly recommended. the gun apart and clean it, don’t even inside the spray gun and you’re
This stuff sticks really well, if you get start,” says Warren Spears of Spears never going to get it all out,” says
my drift. Auto Repair in Long Beach, Spears who uses lacquer thinner and
You will also need to give consid- Mississippi. “I’ve seen many good a Scotch Brite pad to clean his equip-
eration to the tip on the gun. paint guns ruined because they ment.
Because Chassis Saver is very heavy- weren’t cleaned properly right after Plan to use a disposable bucket to
bodied for an automotive coating, it use.” mix the product and thinner.
CampbellHausfeldFP 4/13/07 4:21 PM Page 85
Everything Auto
Characteristics that make a product
like Chassis Saver work so well also
make the clean-up process difficult.
So anything you can throw away
when you are done would reflect
good planning, especially if you are
using a brush or roller to apply the
product.
Anytime you are using a heavy
(thick) product like this, there is a Step 1:
possibility that the vent hole of the For those who don’t recognize it, Step 4: As with all spray applica-
gun cup will get plugged, and the this frame belongs to a 2000 Chevy tions, start sweeping the gun before
product won’t flow because it’s not 3/4-ton short bed crew cab, rescued pulling the trigger and keep the gun
getting enough air. So if you have from a salvage yard. moving until after you let go.
product in the cup but nothing is
coming out, it may not be a plugged
tip. Take the lid off, tap it gently, or
use a toothpick to open the vent so it
can breathe before proceeding.
After you have everything ready to
go, “cut” (thin) the product as rec-
ommended (using Magnet Multi-
Temperature Reducer), load the gun
and go.
Typical spray patterns are recom-
mended (8 to 10 inches away, con-
stant movement, etc.), but this prod- Step 5: The same characteristics
uct is quite forgiving to apply, as you
that make a product good protection
can imagine when the application
in harsh conditions also requires that
process calls for brush-and-roller
when applicable. Plus, it’s the truck you use good protection when apply-
frame (under the vehicle) and not a Step 2: Although not a two-part ing it. A minimum of full respirator,
door panel, which needs to be per- head sock and coveralls should be
product, Chassis Saver acts like one
fect. So have fun with it. used. It would not be a bad idea to
in some ways. You need to have
Be prepared to view and spray the use a full face shield for eye and face
everything ready before opening the
frame from several different angles to protection as well.
can and thinning, or it can get away
cover all of the surfaces. The idea from you.
here is to stop rust. So be thorough
in the application. One coat may be
all you need. But if time and product
allow, hit it a second time after the
first coat flashes.
Remember, clean the gun immedi-
ately after spraying each coat.
The end result will be a slick fin-
ish that instantly wins the ongoing
battle against corrosion.
Sources:
Magnet Paints,
www.magnetpaints.com Step 3: Once you start spraying, Step 6: Chassis Saver looks quite
work systematically to cover the glossy for hours after application
Spears Auto Repair, frame from all angles in one area but the next day it will have less
(228) 863-1878 before moving on to the next. sheen and be a little more satin.
SODA BLASTING
Like most paint jobs, painting a motive panels. Soda is also inert and
vehicle frame is mostly prep work. In water-soluble, making it a bit friend-
this case, most of the prep work is in lier to the environment.
getting the rust and thick moss-like Soda blasting tends to leave a
under coat off before you paint. residue, which must be neutralized
The maker of Chassis Saver says before you can apply paint. However,
you can paint “directly over tightly this residue can be an advantage if
adhered rust,” but it also says, “opti- there will be a time gap between the
mum results can be achieved by sand- blasting and the painting, because
blasting.” We’d like to suggest an this light coating can help slow down
alternative: soda blasting. Same con- oxidization.
cept, a little less aggressive. While many recommend a simple
Most of us are familiar with sand- water rinse, Spears says to plan a
blasting. However, silica sand, alu- more thorough cleaning using Dawn
minum oxide, glass bead, silicon car- dish soap, vinegar and some elbow
Step 7: Move around and look bide, corn husk and walnut shells are
at the frame from many different a few of the many abrasives that can
be used for blasting.
angles to ensure full coverage.
The use of bicarbonate of soda is
growing in popularity because it
tends to be less damaging than more
aggressive abrasives, which can also
generate enough heat to warp auto-
ProductNewsEDIT.qxp 4/13/07 6:20 PM Page 88
Product News
Asphalt Roof Cleaning

and Stain Prevention
By John Meredith, President of SaverSystems
M y wife and I were

returning from a
week-long trip about six years
ago. She happened to notice the
roof. “What are those ugly black
streaks on our roof?” she asked.
“Can you do something about that
or should we have our roof
replaced?” Since our roof was only
about eight years old at the time, I
hoped there was a way to safely
clean it.
Roof Attack
It’s funny how neither one of us
had noticed those horrible looking
black streaks that had seemingly
appeared during the week we
were gone and attacked our roof.
If these same stains were on our
cedar siding, we would not have
put up with them for a moment. I
soon noticed that it was not just
our home that was plagued. Most
of the homes in our neighborhood
also had these ugly black stains on
their roofs. While on my travels I
noticed this problem was common
almost everywhere.
After some initial research we
discovered that there are essentially two types of chemistry currently Renew your roof with the right
being used to clean roofs—Chlorine Bleach and Sodium Hydroxide. products and techniques.
Each had its advantages and disadvantages. Every summer for six
years we tested every commercially available product we could find
that was made with bleach or sodium hydroxide, including our own
experimental formulas. We recorded the results and watched the test
areas for several years to see how quickly the stains would return. We
then consulted with experienced roof cleaning contractors, and
cleaned dozens of roofs to develop the best methods and tools for
effective roof cleaning. We developed what we feel is the best and most
effective roof cleaning system available.
JohnsonLevelFP 4/13/07 4:22 PM Page 89
Product News
Roof Stains 101 dirt, tree droppings, mold, fun-

The most common culprit gus or mildew. They are actual-
causing these unsightly stains ly caused when the algae begins
on asphalt roofs is blue-green to decompose.
algae called Gloeocapsa
Magma. Over the past 25 Resulting Roof
years this strain of algae has Damage
become hardier and has There are three major prob-
migrated to less humid envi- lems associated with biological
ronments. It is now a com- attack on asphalt roofs: appear-
mon sight on asphalt roofs ance, shortened roof life and
across 80 percent of the increased energy cost. Algae
United States. The unsightly and fungi growth on roofs may
growth usually occurs on the also contribute to allergies.
north or west side as well as Roof stains caused by algae
shaded areas of the roof. As Algae is the leading cause of roof stains. attack start out as areas of light
the algae grows and decom- discoloration then turn to
poses, it holds moisture, which accelerates its growth. unsightly black or dark brown streaks, detracting from
Another factor contributing to the growth of this prob- your home’s curb appeal and pride of ownership, and
lem is the change that occurred about 30 years ago in the may affect its resale value. Realtors almost always recom-
way asphalt shingles were manufactured. In the early mend removing these unsightly stains from your roof
70’s manufacturers began using a fiberglass mat. before listing your home for sale.
Previously they used an organic mat made of felt or other Algae attack can also damage your shingles and short-
organic base composed of various cellulose fibers. The en the life of your asphalt roof. The algae take root on the
mats are saturated with an asphalt coating and surfaced surface of your shingles, helping to dislodge the protec-
with weather-resistant mineral granules. tive granules. Surface temperatures are also increased
Along with the use of fiberglass mats and higher oil because of the dark stains. Its growth holds water on the
prices came the use of calcium carbonate (finely crushed roof’s surface, which also intensifies the sun’s ultra violet
limestone or marble dust). It was added to the asphalt rays like a magnifying glass. The increased moisture and
coating as a filler or extender. UV rays work to further dislodge the protective granules
Unfortunately, limestone is a favorite food source for and attack the shingle’s protective asphalt coating.
this strain of algae, resulting in black or dark brown Moisture, UV rays, and thermal movement from temper-
stains. Often, these stains are mistakenly thought to be ature extremes are your roof’s greatest enemies. All three
are intensified by algae growth. It
can suck the life from your
asphalt roof, leading to early roof
replacement.
Furthermore, roofs darkened
by algae growth can increase
cooling costs by as much as sev-
eral hundred dollars a year.
Measuring the surface tempera-
ture of dark, algae-stained areas,
versus unstained areas on the
same roof, reveals that surface
temperatures are increased by as
much as 10 percent. In parts of
Roof stains can result in

shortened roof life and even
increased energy costs.
the country where the cooling season is equal to or

longer than the heating season, lighter shades of asphalt
roofs are often used to lower cooling costs. More energy
is needed to cool your home as roofs grow darker from
biological attack.
And, algae and most other forms of fungi reproduce
from tiny airborne spores. Like most plants, these spores
will grow wherever they find minerals, moisture, warmth
and light. Having an algae garden on your roof spewing
off millions of microscopic spores around your home is
not ideal, especially if you or a loved one suffers from
allergies.
Roof Cleaning 101

There are two distinct schools of thought among roof-
cleaning professionals. Each camp holds strong opinions
as to the best product and method to clean asphalt roofs.
First, there’s the product debate. Which to use?
Chlorine bleach-based cleaners, or non-chlorine bleach
cleaners made from sodium hydroxide (lye)? Lye is the
main ingredient used in many paint strippers and drain Shown is the Roof Cleaner Applicator
cleaners. Both products and the methods used to apply available from SaverSystems.
and rinse them have their pros and cons.
Chlorine Bleach: Discolorations from algae and bio-
logical growth are difficult to remove from roofing sur-
faces. Bleach will lighten the stains to the point they will
not be visible. However, bleach will not fully remove the should be used to follow all cautions on the label.
algae colony or its root system. Because of this, stains will However, these solutions, when rinsed from the roof into
typically return sooner on roofing cleaned with bleach the ground, are somewhat safer than bleach for sur-
than with some other products. In extreme cases, algae rounding vegetation. But sodium hydroxide is an effec-
stains have returned in as little as 6 months. tive degreaser and high concentrations may cause irre-
Another drawback is that bleach solutions rinsed from versible damage to asphalt shingle roofs.
the roof into the ground can kill surrounding vegetation. Sodium hydroxide-based products are generally more
It will also neutralize many chemicals used for termite effective at removing algae colonies, but require more
protection and may void your home’s termite warranty. dwell time and are harder to rinse from the roof surface
Bleach can also accelerate corrosion than chorine bleach. Effective rinsing
of metal gutters, downspouts, flash- often requires the use of high-pres-
ings and roofing fasteners. It may also sure washing systems.
fade or dull the color of the roof. And Some roof cleaning companies will
besides the obvious health risks of use a pressure washer to speed the
handling chlorine bleaches, strong rinsing process. Even though they
bleach solutions will damage almost claim to turn down the pressure, use
any hard surface that comes in con- a wide tip, and hold the tip high
tact with it. Asphalt shingles are no above the surface to avoid damage,
exception. they are still blasting the surface with
Sodium Hydroxide: Sodium 200- to 300-psi of water pressure.
hydroxide, or lye, is caustic and care Asphalt shingles are not designed to
withstand even that much so-called
low pressure, and permanent damage
may result. A good stiff rinse is need-
Defy Roof Cleaner ed to remove algae colonies and their
does not rely on
harsh chemicals.
root systems, but it’s best to avoid the
use of power washers.
Product News
Shown is a special roof rinsing tool that safely
washes away the cleaning product without
damaging the shingles with high pressure.
in less than 2 years. While in the Midwest it may take

5-8 years before stains become an eyesore on a new
asphalt roof.
Basic Overview of
Roof Cleaning Procedures
Roof Inspection: Before cleaning, inspect the roof and
repair any minor trouble spots. Replace or repair any
weathered roof boots or flashings. Re-set nails and re-
Safer, More Effective Roof Cleaning caulk any areas as needed. Check gutters and down
An alternative to traditional bleach or lye products is spouts and remove any blockages that may cause gutter
Defy Roof Cleaner, the first effective roof-cleaning prod- over-flow.
uct that does not rely on harsh chemicals. It strikes a per- Protect Surrounding Areas: Move or protect any non-
fect balance between aggressive cleaning and being less target objects that might be subject to overspray. Move
harmful to the roof or surrounding vegetation. It’s made any automobiles from drive or out of range of overspray.
of an optimized blend of detergents, coupled with a Fall Protection and Safety: Roofs can become slick and
unique buffered Sodium Metasilicate—a chemical, made hazardous when wet. especially when cleaner is applied.
from sand and soda ash, which is recognized as a non- The use of OSHA-approved fall protection devices is rec-
pollutant. ommended. Consult your safety equipment supplier. Use
Defy Roof Cleaner breaks up the masses of algae root- extreme caution when working with water hoses or the
ed to the shingles’ surface into very fine particles. Then, rinsing tool around power lines near roofs.
a specially developed rinsing tool is used to remove the Apply Cleaner: Apply cleaner according to label direc-
algae from the surface. The rinsing tool, attached to a tions with Defy’s Roof Cleaner Applicator.
garden hose, will remove the algae spores and any Rinse: For best results, use the Roof Rinsing Tool
remaining roots more effectively than just rinsing with a according to the rinsing instructions on the label. Use of
garden hose. This is no more harmful to the roof than a a small utility pump connected between two sections of
hard, driving rain. This means roofs stay cleaner longer, hose can be helpful if more pressure is needed.
and no damaging pressure washing is needed. Apply Stain Blocker: Apply the stain blocker according
to the label instructions to help prevent the stains from
Stain Prevention and Maintenance returning. As a general
Defy Stain Blocker protects the roof and helps prevent rule this will prevent
stains from returning. Once the roof has been properly stains from returning
cleaned and rinsed, it should be treated with Defy Stain twice as long as a roof
Blocker. Maintenance coats should be re-applied about that was cleaned and not
every two to three years. protected. Results will
The frequency of maintenance coats will depend on vary depending on type,
many factors. Climate, orientation of the roof, and sur- condition of roof and
rounding trees that keep direct sun off the roof are just a climate.
few of the factors that determine when a maintenance
coat will be needed. In extreme cases, maintenance coats
may need to be applied yearly. In ideal situations, main-
tenance coats may only be needed once every five years.
It’s best to treat each roof on a regular maintenance
schedule or at the first sign of staining. The bottom line For more information,
is the more humid the climate, the faster stains will visit www.defyinfo.com
return. In the Southeast new asphalt roofs can turn black or www.saversystems.com
Trojan Color Sealer

Most concrete or masonry color stain systems easily fade once the topical sealant wears away. Trojan Color Sealer is dif-
ferent in that it incorporates a unique penetrating polyester waterproof sealant and UV-resistant pigments in one product
that locks in the color. This is a low-VOC, non-toxic product that is available in 36 colors with either a satin or flat fin-
ish and can be used indoors or outside
on any porous surface. It can be easily
applied with a low pressure sprayer or
roller and comes with a 10-year water-
proofing warranty
Eco-Wares, Inc.
866-874-8070
www.eco-wares.com
Before After
Product News
DIY Mirror
Framing
The Mirr.Edge system offers an easy way
to enhance the look of existing mirrors
without removing them from the wall. It
consists of mirror acrylic or woodgrain-fin-
ished polymer strips and corner plates that
are easily applied around the perimeter of
your mirror. The only tools needed are a
razor knife and a measuring tape. The aes-
thetic value of bath and vanity mirrors can
be increased in minutes. In addition to the
clear acrylic mirror finish, choose from four
woodgrain finishes, including Deep Cherry
Walnut, Elegant Royal Oak, Easy Driftwood
and a Light Regal Birch. Select either deco-
rative or contemporary corner plates to
make installation virtually effortless. You
can transform a mirror of any size, and the
cost is less than $50 for mirrors up to 63 by
63 inches.
Mirr.Edge
1-800-757-2990
www.mirredge.com
Install in 4 Easy Steps:
1. 2.
Measure the mirror. Score the strips
Then measure and at the desired
mark the Mirr.Edge length with a
strips to size. razor knife.
3. 4.
Firmly hold the Apply adhesive
strip and snap pads and glue to
it along the the rear of the strips
scored line. and set in place.
The Ultimate Firewood Marker

The Mingo is a lightweight, one-of-a-kind tool for mark-
ing firewood. Simply roll the hand-held Mingo down the
length of a log for precise 14-, 16-, or 18-inch marking.
The Mingo marks 20 times faster than conventional
methods, which produces firewood of equal lengths for
safe stacking and longer, cleaner burning.
SMH Inc.
1-888-267-5965
www.themingomarker.com
Boiler Room in a Box

The Boiler Room in a Box takes the guesswork
out of heating your home. All of the compo-
nents come piped, wired and packaged, includ-
ing a 175,000-Btu boiler. (Larger systems or oil-
fired systems will require a floor-mounted boil-
er.) When the kit is delivered to the job site, the
front and sides are removed from the crate and
the unit is mounted on the wall. With only a few
basic connections, installation is complete. For
the do-it-yourselfer, the Boiler Room in a Box
simplifies component placement in the boiler
room piping setup so that most anyone can install the system with ease.
Each boiler system is custom designed and assembled at the manufacturing
facility to the specifications of the project requirements.
A.I.M. Radiant Heating

1-877-DAMN-HOT
www.aimradiantheating.com
Advertisers June 2007

Alden . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Paws Off Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
All American Wood Register . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Peekaview Screens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Ameristar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62, 63 PexSupply.com. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
APA Engineered Wood . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Postsaver USA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64
Armstrong-Clark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37, 55 PowerShot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Atticcap Corporation. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87 R&R Clamp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Better Life Technology LLC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Rain Chains. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
BHK of America . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 RedyTemp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81
Bigfoot Systems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 Rheem . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77, BC
Bossmate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Rocky Top Building Products . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61
BRAVO Screens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Shade Sails LLC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Cepco Tool Company . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Sikkens. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
CreteSheet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 Snap-On.com . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Deck Restoration Plus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Southern Homebuilding Seminars . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
Defy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . IFC, 1 Soy Guard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Door Jamb Armor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Specification Chemicals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96
Drill Doctor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Speed-Cope. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Dunbarton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Stoner. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95
Dustless Technologies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Striker. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81
DYNATRAP . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 SuperPages.com . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69
E tankless . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 SuperShop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
Eagle Mountain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 Swanson Tool Co., Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Empire Level . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 Techni-Edge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95
EZ A Peel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 The Coper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
GarageFloor.com . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 The Garlinghouse Company . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57
General Tools & Instruments. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24, 25 Tiger Foam Insulation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
GTO/PRO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 T-Jak . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
Hannell . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 White Lightning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
Hydro-Sil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 WholeHouseFan.com . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Inferno Heating Systems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79 WindsorONE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Jackson Industries, Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Womanized Wood . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . IBC
Jefferson Tool LLC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 Wood Master . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
Johnson Level & Tool . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89 Woodcraft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
King Kaulk. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Work Sharp Tools. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Lam-Hammer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 Worth Home Products . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93
LawnBott . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72
Life Industries Corporation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Louisville Ladder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Magnet Paints . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87
Magnetite . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
Mapei . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Maxus Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85
Metro Products . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
MillworkForLess.com . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
MIRR.EDGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Mitten . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
MP Global Products . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73
Noble Company . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
OZ-Post . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64
ArchwoodFP 4/13/07 3:54 PM Page IBC1
RheemFP 4/13/07 3:54 PM Page BC1

Extreme

Uploaded by

Document Information

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

Extreme

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

EHTCover 4/13/07 4:23 PM Page Cov1

Adding Skylights to an Existing Roof | New Laminate Floor in a Snap

The Enthusiast’s Guide to Home Improvement

With and without vacuum attached

Compare Dustless to Typical Shop Vacs

50 Room with a View (or Two)

8 From the Editor

Cover photo courtesy Therma-Tru Doors

The ONLY Caulk You'll Ever Need...GUARANTEED!

CAULKS • SEALS • BONDS

arpe diem.” I saw those words printed on a t-shirt CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

tures and a more pleasant experience all

the weather is nice, and save those cooler VICE-PRESIDENT FINANCE

Extreme How-To (ISSN 1540-5346) is published and distributed

The information in Extreme How-To’s editorial content is intended

Printed in the USA

Q: Is there a way to fix a loose metal handrail

Tool School By Monte Burch

Power Fastener Profile

T hese days a wide range of extremely

The new Bosch 14.4V model provides even more power

chores and is especially effective at driving self-tapping

Hitachi also makes a 14.4-volt impact driver with 1,330

Hitachi’s 14.4-volt impact driver features a unique two-step

The DeWalt Heavy

One great feature of the Ridgid is a variable speed switch

Black and Decker enters the

Speed applications, and 490 inch/pounds of torque. It oper- IMPACT ACCESSORIES

Hitachi’s 14.4V Cordless Impact

118 Parmenas Lane, Chattanooga, TN 37405

COOL NEW HAND TOOLS

Works WITH staple

UNITED STATES: 271 Mayhill Street, Saddle Brook, NJ 07663

COOL NEW HAND TOOLS

“Hawk” Ratchet-Action Pipe Wrench

Snap-On’s Super-Strong Dual 80

Do-It-Yourself By Matt Weber

P opular in a wide variety

coped corner on a separate

Prepping First remove any existing

MORE TIPS FOR MOULDING AND TRIM

COPE CORNERS WITH A JIGSAW

DO IT YOURSELF MAKEOVER FOR MIRRORS

Please call for information

For long runs of moulding, scarf

For inside corners, begin coping

Cut away the waste area

Use a file to fine-tune the

The coped joint should fit like a

On outside corners, mark the

Check the outside angle with an

Run a nail set along the outside

A small hammer and finish nails

Complete the project with your

Photo courtesy Therma-Tru Doors

In some ways installing a pre-hung exterior door can

■ Italian design, American made, great appearance

Step 7: With the door still

GET THE BEAT BACK

Step 14: While push-

Step 17: While pulling Step 19: Go outside

Step 23: Finally, nail the brick mold to the sheeting at

The T-JAK becomes your hard working helper

Step 4: Pre-drill the Step 6: Extend the deadbolt partially before