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The New York Times International - 06 09 2019 PDF
The New York Times International - 06 09 2019 PDF
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OPINION
A vote could help clarify
At long last, on Wednesday Carrie
Lam, the leader of Hong Kong, an-
a debate that’s become
nounced, along with a few other large- hopelessly muddled
ly symbolic measures, the formal
withdrawal of the contentious extradi- BY MARK LANDLER
tion bill that set off a summer of pro-
tests. But this is a totally unacceptable He jabbed his finger in the air and shook
response to the crisis facing the city. his head theatrically. He dared the oppo-
And no less than her earlier steadfast sition to back his call for an election and
refusal to concede anything to the sneered that the Labour Party’s leader
protesters, the gesture — so minor and was a “chlorinated chicken.”
coming so late — only confirms what By the time Prime Minister Boris
many of us suspected are the interests Johnson finished his first day taking
she really serves. questions in Parliament, he had ushered
Far more revealing than what she in a new season of political mayhem in
just announced publicly are statements Britain, one in which the voters are now
she recently made in private. Last as likely as their feuding leaders to re-
week, in the midst of intensifying solve the questions over how and when
police brutality against the protesters, Britain should leave the European Un-
Mrs. Lam met with a privileged group ion.
of businesspeople The raucous spectacle this week in
Carrie Lam, and told them, off the the House of Commons illustrated the
record, that she obstacles Mr. Johnson will face as he
the city’s would quit “if I have tries to lead Britain out of the European
leader, finally a choice.” Her talk Union next month.
makes a was recorded on the Parliament handed the prime min-
concession — sly, leaked and dis- ister two stinging defeats. It first
caving to closed on Monday. DMITRY KOSTYUKOV FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES blocked his plans to leave the Union with
Beijing and On Tuesday, she told Violetta Douib at her home near Paris with a picture of her daughter, Julie Douib, who was killed in March. In France, a woman is killed by her partner or ex-partner every three days. or without an agreement. It then
big business. journalists that she stymied his bid, at least for the moment,
had never tendered to call an election for Oct. 15, out of fear
save us?
ways with Alber Elbaz, its former cre- They joined a club that includes Jona-
ative director, in 2015. than Anderson at Loewe (35), Frances-
It had quickly run through two other co Risso at Marni (36), Julien Dossena
creative directors without success, and at Paco Rabanne (36) and Olivier
sales were plummeting. The house had Rousteing at Balmain (33).
a new owner, the Chinese group Fosun The buzziest names of fashion month,
International, and it wanted a turn- which begins this week in New York be-
around before Lanvin drifted off to the fore rolling out to London, Milan and
land of irrelevance. So what did Mr. Hec- Paris, are all under 35: Kerby Jean-Ray-
quet do? mond of Pyer Moss (32), Telfar Clemens The best way to predict the
FROM LEFT: GEOFFROY VAN DER HASSELT/AGENCE FRANCE-PRESSE — GETTY IMAGES, MARC PIASECKI/WIREIMAGE, ANDREAS SOLARO/AGENCE
Cherchez the millennial.
He hired Bruno Sialelli, age 31. Mr. Among the new generation of millennial fashion designers, from left: Jonathan Ander-
FRANCE-PRESSE — GETTY IMAGES (34) and Brandon Maxwell (34) — the
Council of Fashion Designers of Amer-
future is to design it. Are you in?
Hecquet made a big bet on a very young, son (35) at Loewe; Marine Serre (27); and Francesco Risso (36) at Marni. FASHION, PAGE 2
#designtoimprovelife l www.theindexproject.org
Y(1J85IC*KKNPKP( +,!"!$!@!]
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2 | FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 6, 2019 + THE NEW YORK TIMES INTERNATIONAL EDITION
page two
PETER LINDBERGH
Among those in front of the camera of Peter Lindbergh, at left below, were the model
Kate Moss, above, in 1994, and a group of models on a California beach, right, in 1988.
PETER LINDBERGH
World
ISIS tries
Israeli leader is looking less invincible using cows
NEWS ANALYSIS
JERUSALEM as bombers
Scandals and rivals
besiege Netanyahu Iraqi colonel says move
at a critical moment shows that the group
is short of recruits
BY DAVID M. HALBFINGER
BY ALISSA J. RUBIN
Younger rivals in his Likud party are cir-
cling overhead. Bombshell exposés on The Islamic State has been reluctant to
the nightly news have returned his use humans to carry bombs because of
looming indictment on corruption the group’s reduced numbers, so it has
charges to the forefront. tried out a new tactic: Bovine suicide
Even Benjamin Netanyahu’s undis- bombers.
puted advantage over every challenger, Residents of Al Islah, Iraq, last week-
his primacy on the international stage end said they had witnessed “a strange”
as Israel’s longest-serving prime min- sight: two cows fitted with explosive
ister, has lately been a source of as much vests roaming the northern side of the
embarrassment as luster. village, according to Col. Ghalib Al-
With less than two weeks until a do- Atyia, the spokesman for the police com-
over election that was forced on the mander in Diyala Province, east of
country by his inability to form a gov- Baghdad.
ernment after coming out on top in an The animals wandered into the out-
April ballot, Mr. Netanyahu’s larger- skirts of the community, and when they
than-life persona may have lost some- seemed close to houses, the bombs were
thing that made his re-elections once detonated remotely, killing the cows and
seem inevitable. damaging nearby houses, but not harm-
A series of recent setbacks has over- ing any people, Colonel Al-Atyia said.
taken his aura of indispensability. In the colonel’s assessment, the at-
Last month, Gilad Erdan, the 48-year- tack signaled that the Islamic State,
old minister of strategic affairs, turned whose ranks were sharply reduced by
down an appointment as ambassador to the group’s four-year fight against Iraqi
the United Nations. Publicly, he said he security forces, was resorting to uncon-
wanted to stay in Israel to help Likud ventional methods because they lacked
prevail in the Sept. 17 election. Privately, manpower.
he made it known he did not want to be Still, using cows to deliver bombs is an
stuck in New York during a possible bat- odd strategy in Iraq, where the animals
tle to succeed Mr. Netanyahu as party are prized both for meat and milk. A cow
leader. can easily cost $1,200 or more, and no
That was after Mr. Netanyahu felt one in the area could remember ever
compelled to require Likud lawmakers seeing a cow sent to its death in such a
to sign a loyalty oath vowing that Mr. DAN BALILTY FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES way, said several witnesses.
Netanyahu was and would remain the Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu of Israel in Washington in March, after a meeting with President Trump. He faces a difficult election in less than two weeks. The cows were contributed to the Is-
party’s only candidate, “regardless of lamic State by villages in the area
the election results.” thought to be friendly to their cause,
Last week, Avigdor Lieberman — not get Mr. Trump on the phone. non grata to the Netanyahus. The re- said security officials in the Diyala Po-
who forced the repeat election by refus- A quick trip to Ukraine, seen as poten- cording drew instant comparisons to a lice Command.
ing to join the ultrareligious parties in tially aiding Mr. Netanyahu with Rus- similarly unflattering recording of his The use of animals as booby traps is
Mr. Netanyahu’s coalition — disclosed sian-speaking voters, accomplished lit- wife that surfaced last year. not new. During the civil war in Iraq
that he had met with senior Likud offi- tle except a minor flap when the prime It was perhaps more telling that the from 2003 to 2009, the insurgents who
cials about dumping Mr. Netanyahu as minister’s wife tossed a traditional recording surfaced at all, suggesting called themselves Al Qaeda in Iraq
the party’s standard-bearer if he failed bread offering onto the tarmac in Kiev, that people presumed to be loyal to Mr. placed bombs both inside and under
to emerge from the election with a viable offending their hosts. Netanyahu were not only taping their dead livestock, counting on families to
governing coalition of 61 seats in the 120- Domestically, the news has been par- calls with him, but leaking those record- try to clear away the corpses.
seat Parliament. ticularly unkind to Mr. Netanyahu over ings when it could do him the most dam-
“At least two-thirds of the party is the past week, just as Israelis were age.
praying that Netanyahu does not get 61 sending their children back to school “That’s another sign that there are The animals were contributed by
seats,” Mr. Lieberman told the Ynet and reluctantly focusing on another people in the party that believe it’s time villages friendly to ISIS’s cause.
news site. election campaign. for him to go,” said Mr. Wolfsfeld, the po-
Mr. Lieberman’s claim may be Last week, Israel’s Channel 12 di- litical scientist.
overblown but Likud did not dispute it. vulged that the prime minister had per- Rivals have pounced on both reports, In Afghanistan, donkeys were occa-
And analysts said it was plausible. sonally instructed a loyal confidant — and seized on the prime minister’s push sionally pressed into service to carry
“Everybody knows, including people now a star witness against him — to re- to get his would-be coalition partners to bombs targeting NATO forces.
in Likud, that there’s more chance than ward a friendly telecommunications ty- agree to grant him immunity from pros- Colonel Al-Atyia described the attack
ever that this is the end of the Bibi era,” coon with favors worth hundreds of mil- ecution. Mr. Netanyahu scored an im- as serving several purposes for the Is-
said Gadi Wolfsfeld, a veteran political portant victory on that front over the lamic State, the main one to signal the
scientist and professor of communica- weekend when leaders of Ms. Shaked’s AMIR LEVY/GETTY IMAGES group’s continued presence in the area.
tion at the Interdisciplinary Center Her- “Everybody knows, including party signaled they would go along with Avigdor Lieberman, center, forced the repeat election by refusing to join the ultrareli- Attaching the bombs to the cows and
zliya. “He’s more vulnerable now than people in Likud, that there’s such a move. gious parties in Mr. Netanyahu’s coalition after the April election. sending them into the village meant the
ever before.” more chance than ever that this But center-left parties have been Islamic State operatives got close
Nor is Mr. Netanyahu gaining much pounding away, suggesting in ads that enough to release the cows near its en-
relief in the diplomatic realm, long his
is the end of the Bibi era.” Mr. Netanyahu’s desperation to avoid percent of Israelis want a right-wing with Hezbollah and other Iran-backed trance without being caught and were
most comfortable terrain. While in April prison was driving him to hand over key government led by Mr. Netanyahu. militias in Syria, Iraq and Lebanon over able to stay close enough to detonate the
he could point to important achieve- lions of dollars. He is accused of doing so ministries, including education and Nearly twice as many preferred either a the past week, for example. bombs, he said.
ments, like the shift of the American em- in exchange for fawning coverage in the transportation, to ultrareligious leaders unity government led by Mr. Netanyahu And there is still the possibility that It also shows the groups’s interest in
bassy to Jerusalem and President telecom’s news subsidiary. Mr. Netanya- seen as extremists by many secular Is- or Benny Gantz of Blue and White, or a Mr. Trump will try to put his thumb on intimidating areas they may want to en-
Trump’s recognition of Israeli hu had previously insisted that he had raelis. center-left coalition led by Mr. Gantz. the scale with another political gift. Mr. ter in the future, he said. This area is
sovereignty in the Golan Heights, Mr. only approved the recommendations of Mr. Netanyahu may also be pushing For all the trouble he faces, Mr. Netan- Netanyahu said Tuesday that he hoped close to main roads leading to neighbor-
Netanyahu is licking his wounds now civil servants in the communications uphill. By doubling down with his ultra- yahu still remains neck and neck with to arrange a trilateral meeting with the ing provinces. “The Islamic State will
from back-to-back humiliations thanks ministry. religious allies, Netanyahu has con- Mr. Gantz, and holds a slim edge in as- United States and Russia to discuss Iran keep trying to breach those areas that
to the White House. Then on Monday, Channel 13 aired a fronted voters with a stark choice for sembling a coalition, though polls show and Syria, giving rise to speculation that they consider strategic for movement,”
He bowed to Mr. Trump’s pressure recording of Mr. Netanyahu berating their next government. They can go him several seats shy of 61, potentially the American participant could be Mr. Colonel Al-Atyia said.
last month in barring two Democratic Ayoub Kara, then his communications with him, and expect an even more reli- leaving him at Mr. Lieberman’s mercy. Trump himself. Northeastern Diyala has seen almost
members of Congress from visiting Is- minister, and interfering in regulatory giously conservative and nationalist co- Damaging stories about Mr. Netanya- Mr. Verter sounded an alternative weekly Islamic State attacks in the last
rael, reversing his own decision and in- policy in 2017, months after Mr. Netan- alition, if he can eke one out. Or they can hu like the leaked recording that sur- theory: that Mr. Trump would grant a year, including ones using mortars and
flaming politics in both countries. Then yahu had been forced by the Supreme opt for the national unity government faced Monday do not necessarily harm Netanyahu request to put Jonathan Pol- roadside bombs, as well as small arms
Mr. Trump raised the idea of opening Court to resign as communications min- that Mr. Lieberman is calling for and him with his supporters, who see the Is- lard, the convicted Israeli spy who has attacks and kidnappings.
talks with Iran, blindsiding Mr. Netan- ister himself because of the pending in- that leaders of the Blue and White Party, raeli news media as synonymous with been seeking to move to Israel, on a Some of those have targeted Al Islah,
yahu, for whom the president’s aban- vestigations. which is neck and neck with Likud, have the leftist “elite” and out to get him, said plane to Tel Aviv. even though it is one of the areas that the
donment of the Iran nuclear deal was his “Are you crazy?” he is heard yelling at said they would embrace, provided Yossi Verter, a political columnist at Ha- Those too certain of a Netanyahu de- Iraqi Army claimed recently to have
proudest moment. Mr. Kara for having made the mistake of Likud first throws Mr. Netanyahu over- aretz. feat, Mr. Verter said, should keep in cleared of all Islamic State presence,
And when Mr. Netanyahu reportedly publicly sharing credit for saving a board. Mr. Netanyahu also has tools that his mind the old joke about his Houdini-like said security experts.
tried frantically to urge the president right-wing TV channel with Ayelet A poll released by the Israel Democra- challengers do not. He squeezed ample ability to evade disaster: “He gets hit
against a meeting with Iran, he could Shaked, a rival minister who is persona cy Institute on Tuesday showed only 27 advantage from Israel’s confrontation and hit and hit, and finally he wins.” Falih Hassan contributed reporting.
world
ests rather than the nation’s. Rather In an unruly session of the British Parliament, Prime Minister Boris Johnson called the Labour Party leader, Jeremy Corbyn, below, a “chlorinated chicken.” Mr. Corbyn helped to stymie Mr. Johnson’s bid for an election.
than embracing the call for an election,
the Labour Party insisted that Parlia-
ment first prohibit Mr. Johnson from Mr. Corbyn has warned often that government 21 seats short of a majority. deal: shortages of food and medicine;
pursuing a no-deal Brexit before it Brexiteers will force Britain into a one- For Mr. Johnson, a disheveled figure trucks lined up for miles at newly in-
would agree. sided trade deal with the United States, known more for his mop of blond hair stalled border posts on each side of the
On Wednesday, Parliament moved in which the British will be forced to im- than for his legislative skills, an election English Channel; chaos at airports and
closer to achieving that. By a vote of 327 port chemically treated poultry. would be a chance to take his case out of train stations; and violence in Ireland
to 299, lawmakers advanced a bill that Labour’s legislation to prevent him the gilded halls of Westminster and di- after a hard border once again bisects
would tie Mr. Johnson’s hands on Brexit, from withdrawing without a deal, Mr. rectly to the British public. It is a debate the island.
barring any departure without a deal. Johnson said, amounted to a “surrender he won in 2016, when he led the pro- That explains Mr. Johnson’s eager-
The bill now goes to the House of Lords, bill” to Europe. He branded it a strategy Brexit referendum campaign, and he ness to hold the vote in mid-October, just
which must give its assent. of “dither and delay,” repeating the won the party leadership this summer before the Oct. 31 deadline to leave the
Until it’s the law of the land, Parlia- phrase like it was a poll-tested message partly because members believed he European Union, rather than afterward,
ment is determined to resist Mr. John- for a campaign. was the best candidate to lead them into when the costs of a disorderly Brexit
son’s push for a new election. And late For his part, Mr. Corbyn complained a general election. could become clearer to voters.
Wednesday night, Mr. Johnson failed to that Mr. Johnson refused to answer “What he doesn’t want is an election
win in another vote the two-thirds ma- questions about the economic costs of a down the road when we’re all eating bar-
jority he needed to call an election. no-deal Brexit. The government, he “What he doesn’t want becued rat,” said Baroness Scott.
“Under normal circumstances, no op- said, declined to release an internal is an election down the There is no indication, however, that
position party would ever get in the way study, known as Operation Yellowham- road, when we’re all even a resounding election victory for
of a governing party calling it quits,” mer, which he said presented a dire pic- Mr. Johnson would make Europe any
said Baroness Rosalind Scott, a member ture of food and medical shortages.
eating barbecued rat.” more amenable to a new deal.
of the House of Lords and a former pres- “He’s desperate, absolutely desper- Officials in Brussels said they have no
ident of the Liberal Democrats. “But all ate, to avoid scrutiny,” Mr. Corbyn de- Mr. Johnson is gambling that the Con- plans to bend on the demands they
the normal rules are gone, which makes clared. “If the prime minister does to the servatives, riding slightly higher in the made of Mrs. May, specifically on the
it difficult to predict the outcome.” could legislate before the deadline. rowdy interruptions. But Wednesday’s country what he did to his party over the polls, can win a solid majority over La- Northern Ireland border, which Mr.
As Parliament went back into session Those tactics prompted an outburst session seemed especially unruly, less last 24 hours, a lot of people have a great bour, which is mired in its own Brexit di- Johnson has said he would not accept.
this week, the signs of Britain’s political from an opposition figure. an effort to extract information from the deal to fear.” visions and saddled with a leader, Mr. Europeans have watched the specta-
dislocation were everywhere. “Are you a dictator or a democrat?” government’s leader than an opportuni- That line drew blood: Mr. Johnson’s Corbyn, whose leftist views put off mid- cle in London with a mixture of bemuse-
Mr. Johnson took questions while be- Ian Blackford, a Scottish leader in Par- ty for Mr. Johnson and the Labour purge the previous day has left the Con- dle-of-the-road voters. A strong victory, ment, distaste and concern.
hind him sat members of the Conserva- liament, bellowed at Mr. Johnson. leader, Jeremy Corbyn, to position servative Party in a state of near-civil he said, would allow him to go into nego- “Observing how the prime minister
tive Party, some of whom he had ex- “I am a democrat,” Mr. Johnson re- themselves for the coming campaign. war. tiations with European officials with a behaves, both to Parliament and oppo-
pelled earlier for voting against his call plied, “because I not only want to re- After challenging Mr. Corbyn to a The prime minister watched on Tues- stronger hand than his predecessor, nents in his own party, is certainly not an
to withdraw, with or without a deal. spect the will of the people in the refer- vote, Mr. Johnson pointed across the day as one of his members crossed the Theresa May. exercise in trust building,” said Norbert
Some Conservatives rose to Mr. John- endum but want to have an election.” well of the House and declared, “There’s House floor and sat with the Liberal In the three years since the referen- Röttgen, chairman of the Foreign Af-
son’s defense, but others scolded him for Prime Minister’s Questions, a weekly only one chlorinated chicken that I can Democrats, officially erasing his gov- dum, however, people here have heard fairs Committee of the German Parlia-
trying to cut off debate on Brexit by cur- ritual dating back to 1961, is often see in this house, and he’s on that ernment’s one-seat majority. harrowing accounts of what could hap- ment. “We prefer to stay out of this jun-
tailing the number of days Parliament marked by grandstanding, catcalls and bench.” The subsequent expulsions left the pen if Britain leaves Europe without a gle.”
world
ployed in both the Abacos and Grand matched in its intensity by the wreckage it was going to be weeks, if not months, Rachel Knowles from Nassau, Bahamas; Charles Bethel, at Christ Episcopal Church in Miami, led a frantic effort this week to aid
Bahama to protect homes and busi- left behind. From the air, the scene in the for the runways to get clear.” and Elisabeth Malkin from Mexico City. Hurricane Dorian victims in the Bahamas, the country of his ancestors.
world
Scaring those they try to protect child reacts to a drill in a way that’s tol-
Trump called action on infrastructure “a
necessity” during his State of the Union
address in February, yet he angrily can-
celed a meeting on the subject with
Democratic leaders in May after learn-
‘Will this help the
narrative?’”
gency to a flood of new preparedness ef- School in Glen Allen, Va., school officials drills work. They then can help the person get ap- President Trump has spent little time clarifying positions on agenda items like infra-
forts. staged an unannounced active-shooter “People tend to forget that if your propriate services,” Dr. Forrester said. structure and health care. Congress is also waiting for his take on gun control.
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THE NEW YORK TIMES INTERNATIONAL EDITION FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 6, 2019 | 7
Business
New pools of talent
fill recruiters’ needs
just because the unemployment rate
ROUND ROCK, TEX.
ticks back up.
Economists, however, said they doubt
most companies will keep such pro-
Businesses adapt policies grams in place when the next recession
hits. Similar policies adopted during the
and requirements in effort late 1990s and early 2000s largely disap-
to gain new employees peared after the dot-com bubble burst,
and didn’t make a comeback even dur-
BY BEN CASSELMAN ing the relatively healthy job market of
the mid-2000s.
When Kate Cosway completed her mas- Many economists say that is why it is
ter’s degree in 2014, her résumé drew so important to keep the current expan-
plenty of interest, but she rarely ad- sion — already the longest on record —
vanced far in the hiring process. She going for as long as possible.
was pretty sure she knew why: She is on “I think all these gains are incredibly
the autism spectrum and struggles in fragile, and they need to be fostered and
traditional interviews. protected,” said Julia Pollak, a labor
Her luck finally turned this summer economist for the employment site
when she landed a 12-week internship at ZipRecruiter.
Dell Technologies, a position that this Even now, there is evidence that the
month will turn into a full-time job work- job market has room for further im-
ing on automation in the company’s au- provement. Companies are raising pay,
dit department. but only gradually, and the inflow of
A year ago, Ms. Cosway probably workers into the labor force has slowed
wouldn’t have been hired at Dell. But in recent months.
last year, the Texas company started a For workers hired during the good
program aimed at hiring people with au- times, the benefits can be enduring.
tism. Economic research has found that once
For Dell, the effort is partly a re- people are drawn into the labor force,
sponse to a growing challenge: With the they tend to stay in it. That may be espe-
unemployment rate under 3 percent in cially true for workers with disabilities
the company’s Austin area — and with or other barriers to employment who
talent in technical roles especially thrive once given a job — but who strug-
scarce — Dell needs to tap into new gle to get that chance in all but the
pools of potential workers. The com- strongest job markets.
HARRISON MCCLARY/REUTERS pany is also trying to hire more veterans
A General Motors plant in Spring Hill, Tenn. The trade war has so far had the most direct impact on manufacturing, which employs only 8.5 percent of American workers. and people looking to re-enter the work
force, often after raising children. Workers who lack required skills
“This is really one of our business im- are being trained, and jobs are
business
Opinion
The historical legacy
of ‘priest weds nun’
Nun Dropout”; “Former Priest Weds
My parents Peter Manseau Ex-Nun”; “Priest Will Wed Nun He Met
may not get on Protestant College Campus.” A few
similar news items had appeared in
to see the previous years, and many more fol-
transform- It made news around the world when lowed in the years to come.
ation of my parents married 50 years ago this Stories about the weddings of priests
summer. They weren’t remotely fa- and nuns were usually presented as
Catholicism mous. Their wedding was no lavish singular curiosities, but in hindsight
they affair. The surprising interest in their their real significance was not in their
dreamed of nuptials can be summed up by a head- novelty but in their repetition. Un-
line that ran in a Vancouver newspaper, beknownst to them, my parents were at
when they thousands of miles from the ceremony the beginning of an exodus, a rejection
married 50 in my grandmother’s modest Boston of the established Catholic order from
years ago, home: “Priest Weds Nun.” which the church has yet to recover.
The headline wasn’t precisely accu- After decades of growth, the ranks of
but some rate. My mother was a teaching sister Catholic clergy in the United States
changes are for a decade, but she had left her order began to decline around the time of my
underway. the previous summer; my father by parents’ wedding. Between 1969 and
then had been a priest for eight years. today, the number of priests has fallen
On the day of the wedding, he was on a nearly 40 percent; the number of nuns
leave of absence from his nearby parish is down roughly three-quarters. Those
and, according to canon law, was auto- who left did so for all kinds of reasons:
matically excommunicated for marry- ambition for secular careers, a longing
ing without first receiving dispensation to start families, just a yearning for
from the obligations of his ordination. another way of life. Yet entwined with
As he told reporters waiting outside, he those practical desires was the fact that
knew that his decision broke the rules of many among my parents’ generation of
the church, but he had done so for its priests and nuns recognized the
benefit. church’s fault lines — its tendency
“We believe in the goals of the church toward secrecy, its culture of obedience,
and love the church very deeply,” he its history of abetting abuse — long
said. “We have committed our lives to before outsiders learned the extent of
the church, and believe we are doing the problem.
this for the good of the church.” As adolescents, both of my parents
For him, to marry publicly as a Catho- endured unwanted physical contact
lic priest was an act of protest meant to from priests who were supposed to be
nudge Rome toward reconsideration of their spiritual mentors, the very men
clerical celibacy and the church’s view who guided them into religious life. My
of sexuality generally — a reconsid- mother’s memories of the convent also
eration he had come to regard as inev- include being required to use a medi-
itable after the reforms of the Second eval self-flagellation device she and the
Vatican Council earlier in the 1960s. “I other sisters called “the discipline.” My
really felt that in order to be true to the father’s classmates in seminary includ-
Gospel,” he said, “I should enter into the ed several of the most notorious of
deepest relationship possible for the Boston’s pedophile clergy. Is it any
church.” By this he meant not his celi- wonder they began to ask to what else
bate religious vocation but marriage, their faith might aspire?
family and the complicated relation- My parents’ anniversary is an admit-
ships they would bring. tedly arbitrary date from which to look
For my mother, though she shared back over a half-century of Catholic SAM'S MYTH
these sentiments, their wedding day history, but it happens also to coincide
was more about becoming a bride than with a moment of widespread re-evalu- decidedly unfrightening elderly Catho- and non-Catholics alike, continues to celibates maintain.
a modern-day Martin Luther. “Our ation of the place of priests and nuns in lic sisters in conversation with reli- shift. Catholic sisters around the world are
plans,” she said in one news report, “are the broader culture, in the United States giously unaffiliated millennials who This re-evaluation is not just an also now being seen in a new light.
simply to live happily ever after.” and around the world. admire the former’s dedication to activ- American phenomenon. When South Scandals like those involving the abuse
The headlines may not have captured In the cover story of the June issue of ism. American church leaders gather in committed at the Magdalene laundries
the nuance, but they conveyed the The Atlantic, another former Boston Viewed side by side, these varied Rome this fall for the Synod of Bishops in Ireland on the one hand, and, on the
essence: My parents’ marriage was priest, the writer James Carroll, called examinations and representations for the Pan-Amazon Region, they will other, the abuse suffered by nuns at the
newsworthy because it upset expecta- for the abolition of the priesthood, blam- reveal a deep ambivalence: The priest consider allowing married men to be hands of priests and bishops recently
tions. As a rule, those who make reli- ing its culture of clericalism as the root might be cast as the key to the church’s ordained as priests to address the short- acknowledged by Pope Francis, have
gious vows in the Catholic Church do cause of the church’s continuing crisis. failings or an answer to secular pray- age of Catholic clergy in an area home to allowed figures too often caricatured as
not also make wedding vows. To news- On the latest season of the Amazon/ ers; the nun is a figure fit for night- tens of millions of people. While some parochial school despots or cardboard
paper editors, “Priest Weds Nun” was BBC Series “Fleabag,” a fraught affair mares but also a potential role model for wonder whether this might eventually saints to be more fully understood.
an irresistible ecclesiastical spin on between a sassy atheist and a “hot those seeking order in their lives. provide a template the Vatican could It is too soon to know what such
“Man Bites Dog,” and the story itself priest,” as the internet calls him, leads Popular culture remains haunted by follow elsewhere, in other places where movements and revelations will mean
turned out to be evergreen, as reporters to perhaps the frankest conversations priests and nuns in a way that its audi- the church is growing as the ranks of to the future of the faith. In the long
continued for years to write about their about celibacy ever in a romantic com- ences’ adherence to, indifference to- clergy fall, would-be married priests are history of the Catholic Church, there is
life together, including in this newspa- edy. The spring announcement that the ward or rejection of Catholic doctrines not waiting for official sanction. The ample precedent both for the opening of
per. gothic horror film “The Nun” would does not fully explain. Priests and nuns priests of Kenya’s breakaway Renewed theological loopholes to address practi-
My parents weren’t the only newly- have a sequel suggests that the word remain, for many, symbols simulta- Universal Catholic Church, for example, cal concerns and for independent
weds to receive this kind of attention. alone is considered sufficiently terror- neously of what was and what might be. are guided by a desire to keep their churches attempting to continue their
Throughout 1969, couples in Texas, New inducing for not one but two big-screen Their symbolic significance endures Catholic identity without forgoing ministry in the style, if not with the
York and California made headlines of scream fests, while a recent social even as their numbers fall and the marriage or resorting to the “secret blessing, of Rome. Yet it is clear that in
their own: “Dissenting Priest Weds experiment called Nuns and Nones put meaning of their vocations, to Catholics families” they say many supposed MANSEAU, PAGE 11
opinion
it impossible to avoid getting caught up in the partisan President Xi Jinping reviewed the Chinese military’s fleet in the South China Sea last year.
bickering over legislative mapmaking. “It is not the
province of the court to pick political winners or losers,”
they wrote. “It is, however, most certainly the province
of the court to ensure that ‘future elections’ in the
‘courts of public opinion’ are ones that freely and truth-
fully express the will of the people. All elections shall be
free — without that guarantee, there is no remedy or
‘This storm is a beast,’ then silence
relief at all.” creasingly contaminated by rising sea the larger more populated islands in the had seen homes built for five become
Erica Moiah James levels. north of the country, just a hundred refuge for 50. We furiously texted
This is the central problem of partisan gerrymander- We watch as the governments of miles away. I can feel the occasional friends and family to make sure they
ing, and one that the conservative justices missed, or small island states like our own, tied to bands of rain and breeze, while I hear were O.K. and we felt helpless.
refused to see: When foxes guard henhouses, the hens multinational agreements, are forced to reports of 200-, 185-, 165-mile-per-hour As landlines failed and batteries died,
invariably disappear. MIAMI Whoever thought Dorian might make decisions that are not in the best winds. I think, what will be left? the footage stopped. Communications
be a good name for a hurricane has interests of the people they serve, while This is no longer unusual for Caribbe- were suddenly interrupted. The last
The North Carolina judges, in contrast, aimed their some explaining to do. In the Bahamas, our electrical grid fails and we are made an people. As I shared video footage text I received was from a friend at 3:45
sights squarely at the foxes — documenting how the when we have to deal with difficulties, more dependent on fossil fuels rather with friends in Puerto Rico, they re- a.m. on Monday: “This storm is a beast
Republican maps had been drawn intentionally to favor we try to make the saddest people than renewable energy. “Too expen- marked, “I know the sound of that — but we are hanging in there.” There
Republicans at the expense of Democrats, and noting among us laugh, knowing that they will sive,” they say. “For whom?” we reply. wind.” Is this what it means to be inti- has been no word since.
return the favor in our hour of need. “Is cost the only consideration?” mately connected by horror? Is there a On Wednesday those of us on other
that the lawmakers had offered no good alternative So when Hurricane Dorian hit land in We feel the sunshine all around us but new creolized language and aesthetic islands and cities barely touched by
explanation for the extreme bias. the Abaco Islands in the northern Baha- are prevented from employing it freely we have now become fluent in by de- Hurricane Dorian began posting pic-
Partisan gerrymandering has a long and bipartisan mas a few days ago and the horrific and legally to meet our energy needs. It fault? We are island people. Where do tures on Facebook and Instagram of
history, and Republicans today see themselves as get- pictures started streaming in on social can be illegal to take your house off the you go? We live on family members disappeared into the
media, among the videos shared early grid and go completely solar on your The Bahamas slim margins. silence of dead batteries and broken
ting revenge for years in which Democrats were in
on was what appeared to be a woman own, but who knows how often the On Day 2, the services. “Have you seen them?” “Are
power and drew the maps in their own favor. But map- running through the rain and wind to government enforces this. The energy
has a tiny footage became less they O.K.?” Beautiful faces streamed
making technology has advanced strikingly in the past safety, only to have her wig blow from from solar panels becomes an enemy carbon intense. We had across social media. I was unable to look
two decades, giving politicians an unprecedented de- her head. The punch line wasn’t the wig instead of a resource. footprint but watched light poles for very long, overcome with emotion
taking flight. It was that she doubled The United Nations recently released carries the snap quickly and the and deathly afraid of recognition.
gree of control in carving up the citizenry for their own
back to retrieve it, rather than continue a damning climate report that stated burden of grid fail. We had seen So we mobilize. We call on the United
benefit. to safety, expanding the list of life’s unless immediate dramatic changes being ground the sea break its States to pass the Green New Deal. We
That’s why Justice Elena Kagan pointed to partisan essentials. Many people might read this take place across the world, places like zero for boundaries, joining donate to groups like HeadKnowles. We
gerrymanders as an existential threat to democratic as a highly inappropriate moment for the Bahamas will be the first to be con- global the rising canals to consider how to gather volunteers and
self-rule. In her dissent from the Supreme Court’s deci- such frivolity, but for Bahamians it was sumed by the ocean. There was no reclaim the earth. I Bahamian mental health workers to
perfect timing. discussion of this apocalyptic report in
warming. had watched as deploy in the coming days. But we need
sion in June, she explained that gerrymandered maps What we have seen in the past few the country, nothing from the prime friends documented everyone’s help and kindness. We need
“make bipartisanship and pragmatic compromise politi- days has been sublime in its horror. It minister. the strange brown tarps, tents, sleeping bags, batteries,
cally difficult or impossible; and drive voters away from has estranged us from the humor that Perhaps it was too much to discuss and gray water rising onto their flashlights, heavy equipment, genera-
an ever more dysfunctional political process.” Justice keeps us going despite the increasing one’s own death sentence. Or perhaps porches, over car roofs and into their tors, chain saws, electrical workers and
fragility of life in the breathtakingly we already knew. Because after all, houses. We had shared images of fam- people capable of rebuilding communi-
Kagan asked, “Is this how American democracy is sup- beautiful place we call home. It has a there are times like this, when hurri- ilies who had done all the recommended cation towers and homes. We need
posed to work?” tiny carbon footprint but carries the canes named Dorian — a name forever preparations become trapped, praying nonperishable food, wipes, adult and
Tuesday’s decision in North Carolina was right to burden of being ground zero for our associated with horror and the undying to be rescued. children’s diapers, bug spray.
answer that question in the negative, and to claim a climate crisis. — ferociously bear down on the places We had seen inside homes where the We need lots of things, but please —
We Bahamians listen to climate de- and the people we love, providing a detritus bobbed in waters 10 feet high no tossed paper towels. This is not
space for state courts elsewhere to intervene when niers in rich countries who are oblivious foretaste of what is to come when the and unreal images of sharks and large funny. Though gracious, Bahamians
partisan gerrymandering has effectively silenced huge or indifferent to those who bear the waters will not recede. fish swimming outside in the deluge, may toss them back to you.
portions of the electorate. But state courts shouldn’t weight for their wonderful life. Mean- It is difficult to summon humor now. even as the water continued to rise 15
have been saddled with this job in the first place. As while, the water rises from the ground in We are an archipelago of 700 islands feet, then 20 feet. We had seen roofs ERICA MOIAH JAMES, an assistant profes-
our yards because the water table is so linked to a global archipelago of small blowing off like sheets of paper, cars and sor in the department of art and art
Justice Kagan wrote in June: “What do those courts
high during high tide, and plants we communities of Bahamians across the boats upended like toys. We had history at the University of Miami, was
know that this court does not? If they can develop and once depended upon no longer grow. We world. I now live in what is often re- cheered as people swam to safety and the founding director and chief curator
apply neutral and manageable standards to identify experience too much rain or too little ferred to as the northern Caribbean city cried upon hearing reports of others of the National Art Gallery of the Baha-
unconstitutional gerrymanders, why couldn’t we?” rain, and fresh water supplies are in- of Miami. The storm assaulted two of who had tried to escape and failed. We mas.
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THE NEW YORK TIMES INTERNATIONAL EDITION FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 6, 2019 | 11
opinion
well
Leaving shoes at the door:
Not purely a health issue
BY CHRISTOPHER MELE Labrador retrievers. “I could sweep and
vacuum three times a day and still have
Maybe you kick off your shoes at home dirt on the floors from the dogs,” she
because you don’t want to track dirt said. “They can’t take their shoes off.”
across clean carpets or floors, or maybe
it’s just a relief to shed them. DIRT CAN BE HEALTHY
Taking off shoes inside the home is Considering the benefits of modern-day
also a common practice observed in sanitation, vaccinations and health care,
Asian and Middle Eastern countries and the likelihood of getting sick from our
households. But if you take them off shoes is “infinitesimally small as to al-
mainly because you’re worried about most be unwarranted,” said Jack A.
harmful bacteria from the outside get- Gilbert, a professor in the department of
ting inside and making you sick, you can pediatrics and the Scripps Institution of
probably relax. Oceanography at the University of Cali-
Those concerns are overblown, ac- fornia, San Diego.
cording to experts, who added that more Mr. Gilbert, an author of the book
pressing health risks are often over- “Dirt Is Good,” said there were theories
looked. suggesting that bringing elements of
the outdoors indoors could help stimu-
WHAT’S ON YOUR SOLES? late autoimmune systems, particularly
Charles P. Gerba, a professor and micro- in children.
biologist at the University of Arizona, In the first year of life, physical inter-
studied how many and which kinds of action with a dog can reduce a child’s
bacteria linger on the bottom of shoes. likelihood of developing asthma by 13
In 2008, researchers tracked new percent.
shoes worn by 10 participants for two Interactions in a barn or farm can re-
weeks and found that coliform bacteria duce it by 50 percent, he said.
like E. coli were extremely common on Emily Ledgerwood, an assistant pro-
the outside of the shoes. E. coli is known fessor of biological and environmental
to cause intestinal and urinary tract in- sciences at Le Moyne College in Syra-
fections as well as meningitis, among cuse, said her 3-year-old daughter had
other illnesses. recently helped her crack eggs to make
“Our study also indicated that bacte- breakfast. When they were done, Ms.
ria can be tracked by shoes over a long Ledgerwood made sure they both
distance into your home or personal washed their hands to prevent any pos-
space,” Mr. Gerba said in a statement. sible cross-contamination with salmo-
(The study was not published in a nella.
peer-reviewed journal, involved a lim- Later, her daughter helped weed the
MARK MAKELA FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES ited number of participants and was garden and pick vegetables. Ms.
Carl Abrams, 90, a retired Air Force colonel in Williamstown, N.J., cheerfully agrees that he can be stubborn. “He gets very angry and oppositional,” his daughter said. supported by Rockport, which was test- Ledgerwood let her have lunch without
ing machine-washable shoes.) first washing her hands.
Mr. Gerba said last month of the find-
To what extent, the researchers asked Then last year, her father fell and frac- impervious to it sounds, well, challeng- times wandered out of his lane, once fell Outside the home, there are objects Taking your shoes off in the house is
middle-aged adults, do your parents ig- tured several vertebrae. “He was in ter- ing. “It’s a really hard thing, this mis- asleep at the wheel and sideswiped a and surfaces that are frequently largely a matter of cultural preference.
nore suggestions or advice that would rible agony for months,” Ms. Kayne said match between what we need and what truck. It was time to relinquish the keys, touched but seldom, if ever, washed,
make their lives easier or safer? — but at least he was finally relying on we want and what’s good for us,” said the family said. such as money, A.T.M. buttons and gas
Ignore instructions from their doc- the walker. She figured that at 87, he’d Marci Gleason, a social psychologist at After extended wrangling, Mr. pump handles, he said, adding, “Focus- FOOTWEAR AT THE DOOR?
tors? grown more reasonable. the University of Texas at Austin. Abrams agreed to a retest by the state ing on people’s shoes feels like focusing It’s best to take your shoes off if you
Insist on doing things their own way, Nope. “As soon as he started to feel Social scientists have learned that motor vehicle agency, a gambit that on the wrong vector.” have young children crawling on floors
even if that makes their own or others’ better, he refused the walker, even older adults who provide support have backfired. “We were convinced he Over all, experts emphasized that or people in the home who have al-
lives more difficult, inconvenient or un- though he knew what could happen,” increased well-being and better health. would fail, but he aced it,” said his washing your hands with soap and wa- lergies, because pollen can be trans-
safe? Ms. Kayne said, sighing. Receiving help, on the other hand, is as- daughter. ter remained the most important health ferred to floors, especially to carpets.
That’s how several studies directed The polite social science term for such sociated with depression. Months passed; his wife began refus- practice. “In cases where your immune system
by Allison Heid, a gerontologist consult- skirmishes: mismatched goals. “If the ing to ride with him. The family negoti- Lisa A. Cuchara, professor of biomedi- is compromised — people who have can-
ing at Penn State and at Rowan Univer- goal is not shared — the older adult ated a series of escalating restrictions: cal sciences at Quinnipiac University in cer, have undergone an organ trans-
sity in Glassboro, N.J., measured adult wants to walk to the grocery store him- With driving dangerous, the First, Mr. Abrams agreed not to drive at Hamden, Conn., said that fecal bacteria plant, have an infection — then there is
children’s perceptions of stubbornness self and the child says, ‘I don’t think it’s a compromise was a scooter. night. Then, to drive only to familiar were certainly transferred from your much more of a reason to take your
among their aging parents. good idea’ — that’s when conflict can places. Finally, to stay within five miles shoes to your floor at home but that “for shoes off when you come home,” Ms.
It proved a widespread complaint. arise,” Dr. Heid explained. of home. most healthy adults, this level of con- Cuchara said.
In an initial study of 189 adult children Such clashes, and related reports of After decades of helping their chil- “Sometimes he would blow up,” Ta- tamination is more of a gross reaction If the person you are visiting prefers
and their parents, Dr. Heid and her col- stubbornness, increase when the parent dren, older people understandably balk mar Abrams said. “But if you gave him than a health threat.” your shoes off, it’s sound etiquette to
leagues found that 77 percent of children and child live together, she found. Per- at becoming dependent on them. “Even some time and then returned to the dis- Putting the threat in perspective, she abide by their wishes, said April Masini,
(average age: 55) reported stubborn be- ceived stubbornness also rises when a if intellectually they accept it, actually cussion, he’d be O.K.” noted that the floor in a public restroom who writes about relationships and eti-
havior by their parents, at least some- parent’s disability increases. receiving help is difficult,” Dr. Gleason Now, Mr. Abrams relies on a bright has around two million bacteria per quette for her website, Ask April.
times. “When a child steps in, most com- said. “It can signal that you’re not red, battery-powered scooter. “An excel- square inch. A toilet seat, on the other “Even if you don’t see shoes at the en-
But two-thirds of the parents (aver- monly there’s a safety issue,” Dr. Heid needed, and people want to feel needed.” lent compromise,” he said. “If it wasn’t hand, has an average of about 50 per trance, you can always ask if your host
age age: 80) described themselves as said. “The parent may not share those She suggests trying to equalize power for the scooter, I’d go crazy in the house.” square inch. would like you to take off your shoes
stubborn, too. feelings about their capabilities.” in the relationship, allowing the parent Twice weekly, he cruises two miles to “Think about that the next time you upon entering,” she said.
In a later study, the researchers asked Stubbornness might actually be a pos- to also provide support, even by just lis- have lunch at Applebee’s, where the place your purse or knapsack on the This practice is also often observed in
192 middle-aged children to keep a sev- itive trait, Dr. Heid suggested. tening empathetically to a child’s ac- servers all know his name, and picks up bathroom floor and then bring it home Asian and Middle Eastern countries,
en-day diary of parental interactions. Of It shows tenacity, persistence, a sense count of her tough week. “It could be a few groceries on his way home. and put it on the kitchen table or said Benjamin Hiramatsu Ireland, an
those who had contact with their par- of control. beneficial for the relationship to not “If he didn’t have to cross a major in- counter,” she said. assistant professor of modern language
ents that week, 31 percent reported “in- But stubbornness, it turns out, can have it all be one-sided,” Dr. Gleason tersection, it would be a lovely ritual,” studies at Texas Christian University in
sistent” behaviors and 17 percent re- also have hurtful consequences. In Dr. said. Tamar Abrams said. Nobody (except WHAT THE DOG DRAGS IN Fort Worth.
ported “risky” behaviors; 11 percent Heid’s largest study, involving nearly She’s also a fan of incremental Mr. Abrams) feels good about his navi- If you are concerned about what two- “Removing one’s shoes upon entering
said they encountered both. 400 middle-aged children, the most progress, a negotiation that leads to a gating across six lanes on his scooter, legged residents track in, then what a home stems from the respectful ob-
“The stories are endless,” said Dr. common response was avoidance: Chil- more reciprocal exchange. even at a traffic light. about your dogs? servance of religious practices that have
Heid, whose interest in the subject was dren back off and let the contested issue As proof of concept, meet the Abrams But she understands. “You’re holding Andrea Kaufmann of Cape May Court been integrated within the cultural fab-
incited by a grandmother determined to go. family. Carl Abrams, a 90-year-old re- on for dear life to who you think you are,” House, N.J., said that she changes out of ric and expected ‘to-dos’ of each of these
shovel snow, despite her children’s pro- “But when they do, they report more tired Air Force colonel, lives in Williams- she said. So, “we hold our breath and let her shoes into slippers to keep dirt off countries and, of course, for reasons
tests, into her 80s. depressive symptoms and less positive town, N.J., with his wife, Joan, 88. He him do it.” the floors, but added that she has two pertaining to hygiene,” he said.
Sports
Dismissing racism as part of the game
Problems with racism have not been
In Italy, after a striker limited to fan behavior. In 2014, soccer’s
global governing body, FIFA, and Eu-
is subjected to taunts, rope’s governing body, UEFA, banned
his own fans shrug it off the Italian soccer official Carlo Tavec-
chio — then serving as the president of
BY TARIQ PANJA Italy’s soccer federation — for six
months after he spoke of a fictional Afri-
To those present at Cagliari’s Stadio Sar- can player “eating bananas” before
degna on Sunday, the sounds were fa- coming to Italy.
miliar. Piara Powar, the executive director of
As Inter Milan’s new Belgian striker, Football Against Racism in Europe, said
Romelu Lukaku, stepped up to kick the combination of racist fan behavior
what would turn out to be a match-win- and the rise of far-right politicians had
ning penalty, Cagliari fans behind the created a “powder-keg situation” in Ita-
goal engaged in a prolonged round of ly. Powar estimated that there were
monkey chants. They continued as the about nine major racist incidents in Se-
shot by Lukaku, who is black, struck the rie A last season, suggesting the na-
back of the net. tional federation was incapable of tack-
The outburst was not the first of its ling the problem.
kind in the arena — Cagliari fans racially “We think the F.A. right now needs to
abused a black Juventus player last sea- be put on special measures,”
son — and it was swiftly condemned af- Italy’s reputation appears to have put
ter video of the incident circulated on so- some black players off moving to teams
cial media. But much of Italy seemed to there.
react with a shrug. Cagliari defended its “And here’s the reason why I decided
fans in a statement. League officials an- not to play there when I could,” Demba
nounced that at least for now, there Ba, a Senegalese striker now playing in
would be no discipline. Even Inter’s fans Turkey, wrote on Twitter in reaction to
defended the behavior, in a letter to their the statement released by Inter’s fan
new star. group. “And at that point I wish all the
The message to Lukaku, who joined black players would get out of this
Inter from Manchester United in Au- league! Surely it won’t stop their stupid-
gust, seemed to be: Don’t take it person- ity and hate but at least they won’t affect
ally, this is Italy. other races!”
The ugly incident was not the first Lukaku, a Belgian born to Congolese
episode of racist behavior in Italian soc- parents who spoke out about experienc-
cer, but the reaction to it highlighted ef- ing racism before the 2018 World Cup in
forts to brush such behavior under the Russia, called on the soccer authorities
carpet. When the young Juventus and companies that run social networks
striker Moise Kean was subjected to — where racist comments made toward
similar abuse at Cagliari last season — players from minority backgrounds are
one of a string of high-profile cases re- commonplace — to do more.
cently at the stadium — his coach and LUCA BRUNO/ASSOCIATED PRESS “We’ve been saying it for years and
one of his teammates initially blamed Romelu Lukaku celebrated after scoring Inter Milan’s third goal during a match against Lecce at the San Siro stadium in Milan last month. still no action,” he wrote. “Ladies and
him, saying he had provoked it. gentlemen it’s 2019.”
Sunday’s incident brought similar de- In response to the negative publicity
flections. Cagliari called the suggestion seemed racist to you, but it is not like they are afraid of you for the goals you utives from Facebook, Twitter and In- Bergamo. The French star Blaise Matu- surrounding the Lukaku incident, much
that its fans might be racist “out- that,” the fan group, L’Urlo della Nord — might score against their teams and not stagram to do more to stamp out wide- idi has been subjected to abuse at Ca- of it from outside Italy, Serie A an-
rageous.” The body tasked with investi- Scream of the North — said. “In Italy we because they hate you or they are rac- spread racial abuse on their platforms gliari and Verona. nounced this week that it would create
gating the matter said Tuesday there use some ‘ways’ only to ‘help our teams’ ist,” the statement continued. — the frequency of incidents, coupled On occasion, players who have ap- an anti-racism campaign to start in Oc-
was not enough proof to impose sanc- and to try to make our opponents ner- Lukaku urged soccer officials to “re- with the lack of punitive measures, has pealed to officials have found them- tober featuring a player from each of its
tions on Cagliari. vous, not for racism but to mess them act strongly on all cases of discrimina- been eye-catching. In December, the selves punished instead. In 2017, the 20 teams.
Perhaps most troubling for Lukaku, a up.” tion,” but Italy’s history in dealing with Napoli defender Kalidou Koulibaly was Ghanaian player Sulley Muntari, then “Racism is a cultural problem so ev-
group representing a section of Inter’s It said the use of racist comments did the problem has not inspired hope. abused during a game against Inter Mi- playing for Pescara, walked off the field eryone’s commitment will be needed,
supporters released a statement on not mean fans were racist, only that they While Serie A is not the only major Eu- lan. In 2018, the striker Michy Bat- during a game at Cagliari after the ref- from experts to fans, to promote a pos-
Facebook purporting to educate Lukaku were trying to “help” their team. ropean league where players of color shuayi, then playing for Borussia Dort- eree gave him a yellow card for com- itive, consistent and appropriate model
in the “ways” of Italian soccer. “Please consider this attitude of Ital- have been subjected to racist abuse — mund, claimed that he was racially plaining about racist chanting from the of support for a civilized country like Ita-
“We understand that it could have ian fans as a form of respect for the fact players in England recently urged exec- abused during a game at Atalanta, in crowd. He was suspended for a game. ly through its stadiums,” the league said.
WIZARD of ID DILBERT
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Culture
New son of Zeus rises
THEATER REVIEW
when I was in film school,” Mr. McCon- And his fans — and a few friends — ambassador of Austin,” he said. Matthew McConaughey, in knit cap, at a University of Texas spring football game in April.
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THE NEW YORK TIMES INTERNATIONAL EDITION FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 6, 2019 | 15
culture
travel
western Portugal town of Odeceixe — is Fontainhas beach in the village of Melides, Portugal. Melides, in the rural Alentejo region, sits in the middle of a 40-mile stretch of nearly untouched Atlantic Ocean beaches.
what St. Tropez used to be in the 1950s,
before Brigitte Bardot, or Ibiza, before
the first wave of summer partygoers to the king of Portugal, has been owned around five million years old, reach 130 day of each month. Grândola also has a spot, but in early August it is home to the to the airport to fly home — that I was
ever heard of what is now a Mediterra- since the 1950s by the wealthy Espı́rito feet into the sky, sitting atop a carpet of classic Portuguese restaurant, A Talha Meo Sudoeste music festival, which reminded how disconnected we had
nean hot spot. Santo family, which, starting in the wild yellow chorão das praias flowers. de Azeite, where some of the best dishes draws crowds of backpackers, mostly been. As I saw the billboards, the big-
That explains why Mr. Louboutin is 1990s, began inviting friends to the area, Finally, on sea level, as you turn in include açorda de bacalhau (a tradi- from Portugal and Spain, who camp in box stores of the city, the car dealer-
trying to build a boutique hotel in including Princess Caroline and Prince both directions, as far as you can see, is tional codfish bread soup) and arroz de tents next to the festival grounds. ships, I realized we had crossed a kind of
Melides, where he has his own ocean- Albert of Monaco. nothing but a vast empty reach of beach lingueirão (rice with razor clams). Our ideal version of a day was just threshold to return to the contemporary
side house. His neighbor is Noemi Comporta is still appealing, with a and the occasional fisherman with a We got as far south as Zambujeira do hanging out in the nearly empty village world. The nine-year cycle of growing
Marone Cinzano, a countess and wine- beach nearby and great places to eat, pole in the sand, or a sprinkling of fam- Mar, a coastal village near the bottom of of Melides, or by the beach. It was on the cork, Alentejo’s clock, is stubborn, slow
maker whose family once owned the fa- such as Cavalarica Comporta, and lively ilies with beach umbrellas. So few peo- the Alentejo. It seemed like a sleepy drive back to Lisbon — we went directly moving, durable — and just right.
mous Italian brand of vermouth. night life. It also has a growing list of lux- ple frequent parts of this beach that the
“I have been traveling all my life, and ury boutique hotels nearby, like Quinta sand is crusty.
I have not seen a place in Europe that is da Comporta and Sublime Comporta.
this untouched,” Ms. Cinzano, who built Luxury cars fill the busy streets, couples MILE AFTER MILE you can walk, uninter-
a rustic seaside home here, said. in bohemian-style outfits walk among rupted. Not a single hotel or resort, just
Other A-list homeowners in the area the art galleries, housewares stores, the occasional snack shack and during
include Philippe Starck, the interior dec- nightclubs and outdoor bars. (The mos- the day, a few lifeguards supplied by the
orator and hotel designer; Anselm quitoes are also pretty overwhelming at regional government. Long stretches of Book Now +1 202-349-0670
Kiefer, the German artist; and Jason night, as the village is built at the edge of the coast are permanently protected as
Martin, the British abstract painter, who a rice field.) national parks.
took over a cavernous former nightclub That is why I was glad we had ended I found myself drawn to the beach. Af-
as his studio, and built a home on the up staying a bit farther south near ter dawn, I would hike on the cliffs, some
nearby hillside, where he is also pro- Melides, a simple town of about 1,500 200 feet high, overlooking the ocean.
ducing wine. residents, four or so restaurants, a This area has a network of sandy
trails from the coast miles into the coun-
tryside. For hours I walked alone, ex-
cept for the birds, beetles, wildflowers
and pines. Thankfully, the GPS on my
phone still worked, as I got lost one
morning on these unmarked trails.
Turning away from the ocean, I could
see only an endless canopy of green —
formed by a huddle of tall pines whose
umbrella-shaped branches create a pine
blanket in the sky.
I returned in the afternoon, with my
wife and daughters, after the sun finally
warmed the cool morning air. We were
there in the evening, to see the sun set as
the beach faces directly west. Finally,
late at night, I was there, standing by the
cliffs overlooking the ocean, gazing at
the crazy display of stars; there are no
nearby cities to spoil the show.
There are, not surprisingly, all kinds
of outdoor activities to choose from.
Simplest is the vast network of so-called
Children at play in the sand of Melides Lagoon in the Alentejo region. fishermen’s trails that stretch for 280
miles inland and along the Atlantic
called Rota Vicentina.You can also take
The Times Journeys Experience
Everyone knows this can hardly last:
rich people descending on a pristine ru-
ral community in search of their own
horseback rides and surfing lessons, go
biking, watch dolphins, and go fishing,
kayaking or ballooning. Several
Travel the Times Way Times-selected experts
piece of nature and solitude. But at least beaches, including an area called Santo A New York Times journalist or subject-
When you travel with The New York Times, you
for the moment, Alentejo is a region of André, have natural lagoons, making its matter specialist joins every tour
experience the story of a place alongside Pulitzer Prize-
unparalleled beauty and authenticity. calm, shallow waters safe for young chil-
My family and I showed up here this dren. Santo André is also a nature re- winning journalists or world-renowned specialists Destinations that tell a story
summer, almost by accident. TAP, Portu- serve with more than 240 bird species who join every tour, providing insight, analysis and Inspired by our journalism around
gal’s national airline, often offers dis- and hundreds of kinds of butterflies. the globe, all Times Journeys have
opinions for deeper context and perspective. a tale to tell
counted flights to Lisbon from gateway Melides also serves as a great launch-
cities in the United States, like New York ing point for day trips throughout the
and Washington. After booking such a Alentejo region, including to Comporta. Behind-the-scenes access
flight, but with no other plans, we read Jaunts we took included a drive Designed to provide perspective,
about the crazy stretch of uninterrupted through cork oak fields. Every nine our itineraries are filled with
Atlantic Ocean beaches here, and de- years, the bark is cut by hand from the extraordinary experiences
cided to book a modest seaside cottage trees, but gradually it regrows. The cork
(We used booking.com for a three-bed- is used in wine bottles, as well as in Local insight and analysis
Scott Heller Anne Barnard Maureen Dowd Local journalists, resident artists
room house that cost $192 a night, in- shoes, bags and other items, all of which Former Times Beirut New York Times
Times Theater Editor and others weave nuance into our
cluding all fees) in a town we could are sold in local shops. Bureau Chief Columnist
barely find on the map, from a couple Behind the Scenes topics and themes
of New York Theater Perspectives on Opinions on the
who live in Lisbon. THE NEW YORK TIMES FROM THE CORK FIELDS, we reached the Lebanon and Jordan Mediterranean
picture-perfect town of Evora, built by
THE ALENTEJO AREA has long been known church, a few small stores and a super- the Romans and later taken over by the
as one of the poorest and least populated market. The town square features a post Moors — which has a second-century
parts of Western Europe, although its office, a small cafe, a newsstand, a fu- Roman temple and Portugal’s largest
sandy soil is fertile. Grapes, rice, wheat, neral home and a butcher shop, along medieval cathedral, along with restau-
rye, oats, olives, honey, asparagus, wal- with a collection of small tables where rants, bars and stores. The UNESCO
nuts, berries, truffles, mushrooms and locals gather to pass the hours. World Heritage list calls Evora the
many other vegetables are grown or Our rental was about 15 minutes out- “finest example of a city of the golden
produced in the region, which is known side Melides, and just two blocks from age of Portugal after the destruction of
as Portugal’s breadbasket. what is the most extraordinary stretch Lisbon by the 1755 earthquake.” This
The inland parts of Alentejo — featur- of beach I have seen anywhere in the was the most tourist-intense part of our
ing historic towns and vineyards — world, called Praia da Galé. week, but well worth the detour.
have for some time drawn outsiders. But You walk down a long pathway to- We spent an afternoon at a large or-
the Alentejo coast is a newer addition on ward the vast expanse of the Atlantic. ganic farm, Herdade Aberta Nova, that View all of our departures and book now
the international tourist map, pulling in Then you climb down a precarious set of includes a vast collection of peacocks, nytimes.com/timesjourneys
affluent visitors starting around 2000, stairs built into the sandstone cliff, be- pigs, horses, donkeys, chickens, goats
Quoted tour prices are per person, double occupancy except where indicated and subject to availability. Excludes internal and international air. Programs subject to change.
when many of them headed to the sea- fore you reach the beach. On the way, and other farm animals.
All terms and conditions can be found at nytimes.com/timesjourneys or you can call 855-NYT-7979 and request a copy be sent to you. Abercrombie & Kent CST#2007274-
side village called Comporta, up the you pass a dazzling collection of reddish, We also stopped by Grândola, the 20, Mountain Travel CST#2014882-10, Academic Travel Abroad CST#2059002-40, Insight Cruises CST#2065380-40, Judy Perl Worldwide Travel LLC CST#2122227-40.
road from Melides. weathered sandstones that look like ab- county seat, where there is a large tradi-
The land there, which once belonged stract sculptures. These formations, tional farmers market the second Mon-