CT Acme Ebook Complete Opt

Bio-derived and
sustainable
Ebook 2019
The Definitive Peer-Reviewed Cosmetic Science Resource

Sustainability
and the Growth
of Naturals
Ingredient Rooted
Directory in Nature
• Sustainable
• Bio-based
• Natural/organic Bio-derived
• COSMOS/Ecocert and Sustainable
• Botanicals Formulas
Beginner’s Guide
to Natural/Organic
Free Ebook Sponsored By:

Market Intelligence | C&T ®
KEY POINTS
• Brands seeking opportunities for growth
can leverage the rising consumer
sensibility toward sustainability.
• This free resource was developed to

inspire you to find your own angle on
sustainable and bio-derived
products.
How Bio-derived Became

Sustainable
Rachel L. Grabenhofer
Cosmetics & Toiletries
I think it is clear that the drive for sustainability stemmed from an interest in self-
preservation amid the fast consumption of bio-derived, natural resources—and
the realization that these are limited.
For years, the cosmetics industry has catered to consumers hungry for
natural innovations. Somewhere along the lines, it became evident that new
approaches were necessary to ensure a steady supply chain. Different agricul-
tural practices and biotechnologies, such as stem cell cultures, emerged, and this has
extended into holistic and authentic considerations for the people along the supply
chain (fair trade/traceability), places (biodiversity) and greater good (eco-friendly);
which, as it turns out, are favored even more by consumers.
Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2019 Allured Business Media.
2 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com www.acme-hardesty.com 2019 Bio-derived and Sustainable E-book

Sustainability Sells claims when making their purchasing decisions,
with an eye toward sustainability, among other
According to a report from Global Cosmet-
1
factors,” stated the report. “Brands looking for
ics Industry, between 2017 to 2018, Nielsen
new opportunities for growth in this space can
compared the performance of sustainability
leverage the rising consumer sensibility toward
claims across three categories: chocolate, cof-
sustainability to attract new consumers and ulti-
fee and bath products, with the goal of under-
mately increase sales.”
standing how consumers feel about various
sustainability factors.
Within all three categories, the dollar sales
Moving
of items with specific claims related to sustain- Sustainability Forward
ability grew at least twice as fast as the aver- While there’s always room for improve-
aged growth of the three categories combined. ment, another study2 published in the Journal of
Also during that time, the overall bath products Cleaner Production gave the cosmetics industry
category sales grew 1%, while sustainable bath credit for moving sustainability forward. Accord-
product sales grew 14%. Nielsen attributed this ing researchers Marto, et al., from the University
rise to environmental claims and the presence of Lisbon, Portugal, sustainability in the cosmet-
of minerals, organic ingredients and essential ics industry has received growing interest not
oils in the products; the essential oil-containing only from consumers, but also industry, academ-
products notably growing 18 times faster than ics and other organizations.
the general category. The drivers identified for sustainability in
“Overall, we can conclude that bath prod- cosmetics include intensifying concerns over
uct shoppers are paying attention to product cosmetics safety; impact on the environment,
2019 Bio-derived and Sustainable E-book www.acme-hardesty.com Cosmetics & Toiletries® |3

How Bio-derived Became Sustainable
i.e., deforestation; and fair trade/social effects. As more important to business, as it is fundamen-
such, the industry has made efforts to formulate tal to define indicators and use specific tools
with more sustainable ingredient alternatives—al- to measure, monitor and evaluate sustainable
though the authors note that lacking performance, standards. The entire cosmetics supply chain
instabilities and aesthetic challenges have been can have an impact on sustainability, so it is
limiting factors. Still, product developers continue important to consider and not neglect all steps
to iterate next-generation solutions to make a in the lifecycle of a product—from the initial
sustainable future a reality. design and sourcing of raw materials, through
Marto’s review2 gives an overview of the larger manufacturing, packaging, distribution, con-
relationship between sustainability and the cos- sumer use, and the disposal or post-consumer
metics industry, including where the challenges use phase.
lie, but also the reason(s) for progress in sustain- In relation, many ingredient suppliers and
ability: for one, the fact that we’re talking about it. manufacturers have devised apps and other
systems to trace ingredient sourcing to ensure it
Sustainability Survey is carried out sustainably. And, from a packag-
For the review, the authors examined a body ing perspective, consider how many types of
of literature on the design and formulation of recyclable and biodegradable packaging have
cosmetics to consider the impact of the different hit commercial shelves.
phases of a cosmetic’s product development cycle Sustainable ingredients: Another heavily
on its sustainability. Also considered were formu- focused area, as demonstrated at any cosmetics
lating challenges and the structure and function of tradeshow today, or all over Cosmetics & Toilet-
raw materials in relation to their sustainability. ries news, is, of course, sustainable ingredients.
Various means of data collection and analysis What does this mean? Interpretations vary,
were outlined and included reviews of: journal ar- which is why the authors note that his term
ticles, reports, books and book sections, websites, has no single, universal definition but typically
theses and patents. Notably, Cosmetics & Toiletries refers to a product with environmentally prefer-
came out on top as the resource having published able attributes. It also is typically designated
the most on sustainability in cosmetics. for ingredients designed with ethical, social and
economic responsibility in mind.
Multiple Dimensions “While it is not possible to officially label a
The analysis revealed cosmetics sustainability cosmetic product as ‘sustainable,’ there are fair
is, of course, a complex and multifaceted issue trade labels, eco-labels and sustainability and
that cannot be evaluated based on a single aspect corporate social responsibility (CSR) indexes
but instead using an integrated assessment about that, in this context, tend to draw nearer to the
the environmental, social and economical dimen- classification of what a sustainable cosmetic is,”
sions. Some notable moves by the industry were writes Marto.
identified; following are select examples. Sustainable transport: One last factor
Sustainability assessment: For the cosmet- worth mentioning that is of rising interest to
ics industry, sustainability metrics are becoming the cosmetics industry is the sustainable trans-

port of ingredients, materials, packaging and final products.
Waterless formulations and concentrates provide prime
examples; not only do they save on cost, but they reduce
carbon emissions and lower a company’s footprint.
The review article continued for some 20 pages, with
discussions on specific core ingredient categories including
emollients, exfoliators, surfactants and polymers, as well
as solvents, colorants, fragrances, UV filters, preservatives,
pH adjusters, chelating agents and antioxidants. Check out
the Journal of Cleaner Production for more information; in Rachel L. Grabenhofer
the meantime, know that our industry is driving progress to C&T Managing Editor
make a difference.
2019 BIO-DERIVED AND SUSTAINABLE E-BOOK
Bio-derived and Sustainable Ebook
Growing interest from consumers in sustainably
sourced, bio-derived natural products led us to the ebook
CONTENTS
you see before you. Sponsored by Acme-Hardesty, the free
Bio-derived and Sustainable Ebook is a collection of articles, 2 How Bio-derived
ingredients and formulas to help you gain a footing in this Became Sustainable
R. Grabenhofer
growing market space.
As stated, sustainability in cosmetics is a multi-dimen-
sional issue, so here we provide articles on a broad range of 8 Sustainability and the
topics relevant to formulating in this space. These include: Growth of Naturals
A. Mitarotonda, Ph.D.
the rising interest in natural products, and how this has
shifted toward those that are organic and sustainable; a
beginner’s guide to formulating natural and organic prod- 13 Protecting Cosmetic Formulations
ucts; and a look at natural and sustainable formulating for with Citrus Power
Acme Hardesty in partnership with
hair care. Sharon Laboratories
In addition, the ingredient directory features products
drawn from our free Cosmetics & Toiletries Bench Reference
(CBR) that are denoted as natural, bio-based, bio-derived, 15 Preserving the Impossible: Challenging
Natural-based Formulations
sustainable, eco-friendly, fair trade, COSMOS/Ecocert, Acme Hardesty in partnership with
botanical, vegan and/or of plant/botanical, mineral and Sharon Laboratories
fermented origin.
Finally, bio-derived and sustainable formula prototypes
are provided by Acme-Hardesty. These range from an Anhy-
17 Quatin–A Novel Bio-based Conditioning
Polymer
drous Liquid Soap and Moldable Cleansing Shower Dough, Acme Hardesty in partnership with
to a Conditioning Body Balm, 2-in-1 Conditioner and Color Cosun Biobased Products
Protectant, Soft Touch Lotion, Ecocert/COSMOS Facial
Cream, Purifying Calming Dead Sea Mud Mask and others. 19 Beginner’s Guide to Natural/Organic
We hope this free resource inspires you to find your own J.I. Yablonski and D.R. Winne
angle on sustainable and bio-derived product development.
Download and get formulating today!
33 Rooted in Nature
M.S.J. Simmonds and J. Marsh, Ph.D.
References
1. https://www.gcimagazine.com/marketstrends/segments/natural/Go-Green- 41 Bio-derived and Sustainable Ingredients
See-Green-In-Bath-Products-Sustainability-Sells-498535581.html
2. https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0959652619309655
56 Citrue Bisabolol
Citróleo
61 Bio-derived and Sustainable Formulas
64 Supplier Listing

Safe, sustainable
bio-based ingredients for
personal care.
Innovative
preservative systems
for personal care.
100% Natural,
sustainable ingredients
for personal care.
Bio-based actives and

multifunctional ingredients
for personal care.
With a 75-year history of
innovation and growth, Acme-
Hardesty has evolved into a
leading distributor of bio-based
products and specialty
ingredients for the Personal
Care Industry.
Our dedicated personal care

team offers formulation
expertise paired with a rapidly
growing product portfolio,
allowing us to collaborate with
our customers and develop
innovative solutions to their
formulation challenges. Acme-
Hardesty partners with suppliers
• Clean Beauty invested in bio-based, unique
• Cosmetics solutions to elevate this
• Hair Care formulation expertise.
• Shower & Bath
• Skin Care
• Sun Care
Sustainability is a key focus for

our business. We concentrate
• Biosecur® – Certified our sourcing efforts on
Organic Preservative renewable resources sourced
• BYK Rheological Additives using sustainable methods to
• Eckart Effects Pigments deliver green, naturally derived
• EnSense™ Esters ingredients to our customers.
• Jamaican Black Castor Oil
• Natural Active Ingredients We offer RSPO, ECOCERT/
• Natural Emulsifiers COSMOS, and USDA Bio-
• Natural Oils and Butters Preferred ingredients. From
• Prebiotics oleochemicals and surfactants
• Sharomix™ Amplify – New to specialty ingredients and
Preservative Solution with preservatives, Acme-Hardesty
Amplified Efficacy offers the ingredients you need,
• Quatin® Cationic Inulin all ethically sourced and
guaranteed high quality.
@AcmeHardestyCo
sales@acme-hardesty.com
Market Intelligence | C&T ®
KEY POINTS
• The natural/organic product industry seems
rather healthy; sales have been steadily
growing in the past 15 years.
• The future of this segment is to be sought

beyond the mere idea of being natural; i.e.,
in being skin-compatible, biodegradable,
non-sensitizing, sustainable and renewable,
and in producing zero waste.
Sustainability
and the Growth of Naturals*
N
*Adapted from Vol. 134, No. 2 | February 2019
Andrea Mitarotonda, Ph.D.

Oriflame Research & Development atural and botanical cosmetics and personal
care products have experienced endless
Bray, Ireland
demand. Why is this? And where will contin-
ued growth occur? These and other questions
were put to Andrea Mitarotonda, Ph.D., cur-
rently Skincare Technical Manager at Oriflame
Research & Development, based in Ireland.
Mitarotonda holds a doctorate in polymer and colloid chemistry, and a
master in industrial and applied chemistry. Since 1998, he has served roles
in R&D for innovation and formulation at multinational companies includ-

ion, we have seen two major breaking points.
‘The key to formulating Firstly, as Judi Beerling put it, in Chapter

9 of Sustainability: How the Cosmetics Indus-
natural and organic try is Greening Up, “The natural cosmetic

industry has woken up to the fact that the
products is the future lies in producing genuinely natural or
organic products. This is causing headaches
good availability for the development chemist who needs to
replace high-performing synthetics with more
of ingredients.’ natural alternatives.”
Secondly, the natural and organic industry
has had to realize, more recently, that consum-
ers are no longer happy just because a product
ing Neal’s Yard Natural Remedies, Oriflame, displays a natural logo; they want performance.
Dow Corning, Lamberti Chemical Specialties, Formulators [therefore have had to come
Intercos and 3M. Following are his responses. to an] understanding of how to formulate
products that deliver proven results within the
How do you view the current status of the limitations imposed by the chosen natural and
natural/botanical product industry? organic standard.
The natural/organic product industry seems Technology has helped [a great deal];
rather healthy; sales have been steadily grow- advances in green chemistry have enabled the
ing in the last 15 years and this trend appears production of high-performance ingredients
to be continuing. Whilst the global personal without compromising on green credentials
care market is predicted to grow at a pace of 3. such as vegetable origin, sustainability and
5-4.5% CAGR, growth for the natural/organic impact on the environment.
sector will be at around 10% CAGR, thus show-
ing consumers are still very much interested in What challenges are unique to this mar-
this no-longer-niche segment of our industry. ket? How are they being overcome, or what
From a more technical point of view, solutions do we yet require?
increased demand of green products has Technically speaking, formulating natural
prompted most manufacturers of raw materials and organic products that are performing, safe
to provide suitable solutions. There a number and aesthetically pleasing still poses a number
of reasons why the sector is doing so well, of challenges. The lack of consensus on a
although in the end, it is all driven by the con- globally harmonized definition of natural and
sumer’s perception of what natural and organic organic within the cosmetic industry should be
products are. That said, it would be interesting addressed as a starting point.
to understand whether the consumer’s percep- The organic food industry is much more
tion is driven by the industry itself, and to advanced in this field. For example, in Europe,
what extent. different aspects concerning the production and
sales of organic products are regulated by law.
What has changed in this market space, COSMOS standards are a good attempt at har-
in recent years? Are consumers demanding monization between several major European
new attributes? Has technology advanced natural and organic labels; however, I hope
natural products? more effort will be put into joining forces with
I think it is possible to innovate to meet other global labels in order to reach a globally
new consumer needs. New needs can [also] be accepted definition of what natural and organic
created by providing consumers with technolo- should mean in the cosmetic industry.
gies they have not seen before, or by improving In this regard, I am rather skeptical about
existing formats. ISO 16128; I don’t think it can be seen as the
The natural and organic sector has seen solution to this problem. In the end, too many
major changes in recent years. Changes are labels are present on the market and this is
mainly driven by an enhanced quality of what “diluting the good message;” i.e., creating
“green consumers” have been demanding, but confusion for both consumers and formulators.
also by new technological solutions. In my opin- Formulating to a natural and organic standard

Sustainability and the Growth of Naturals
‘The lack of consensus on a globally

harmonized definition of natural and organic
within the cosmetic industry should be
addressed as a starting point.’
requires a deep understanding of the standard shows major efforts are being made in this field.
itself, and this is something few formulators In return, [this expansion] of the ingredient
are happy to do because it can be complicated palette enables formulators to create natural
and time-consuming. However—and this is only and organic products that deliver an increas-
my personal opinion—once you get it, it can be ingly sophisticated sensorial experience, as well
very satisfactory and technically rewarding. as performance.
The key to formulating natural and organic Still, there are plenty of challenges to over-
products is the good availability of ingredients. come, and only by answering certain questions
This has been growing exponentially, and the will the level of technical challenge to be faced,
lives of formulators of natural and organic e.g., stability, color, odor, preservation, sensory
products are definitely easier than they used characteristics, etc., become clear. These
to be. As an example, the number of commer- include: How genuine should your product be?
cial references approved for use in cosmetic How should it perform? What sensory trait is
products certified to COSMOS standards has it supposed to deliver? Will it bear any certific
increased from 1,294 to 4,660 within the past ation? Is there any internal policy in place that
four years [from 2014 to 2018]; this doesn’t take could limit the ingredients used?
into account organic-certified ingredients but it One must also remember that the more

“hard core” a formula is, the more likely that changing consumer needs, it also enables us to
hidden pitfalls [will emerge]. For instance, be proactive in reformulating products in the
when vegetable ingredients are used exten- case of regulatory changes.
sively, one should consider that environmental For instance, we are seeing a large num-
conditions, such as weather variability, have ber of preservatives under attack, and my
a significant effect on both performance and perception is that “bad press” is pushing both
availability. It is of primary importance to take authorities and cosmetic manufacturers to
this into account when formulating; while it move away from certain substances. It is very
is nice to use some very niche, locally sourced unfortunate that the general public associates
ingredients, it is necessary to bear in mind what chemistry with “danger” and this has been caus-
the consequences of a shortage could be once ing a rise in such claims as preservative-free and
the product is in the market. paraben-free. Broadly speaking, we can estimate
that around 50% of the substances listed in
What emerging research, regulations Annex V of the European Cosmetic Regulation
or consumer perceptions could affect EC/1223/2009 are under the spotlight.
this market? As a consequence, more and more sub-
Research is a never-ending process, so stances with antimicrobial properties are
there is always something new coming up. I being introduced for manufacturers [seeking]
am a strong believer that innovation is made alternative preservation systems. Formula-
at the bench by scientists and it is our job tors of natural and organic products can lead
(and a pleasure, indeed!) to continuously try the way [in this regard, since] in most cases,
new ingredients and technical solutions. Not they have been using alternative and different
only does this allow us to keep up with ever- substances to preserve their formulae for many
2019 Bio-derived and Sustainable E-book www.acme-hardesty.com Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 11

Sustainability and the Growth of Naturals
‘Natural and organic formulae will need to

adapt to deliver sensorial experiences aimed
at pleasing consumers.’
years. I think this should also stimulate deeper idea of being natural or organic. I am think-
investigations on the chemistry of plant extracts ing of concepts such as skin compatibility,
and essential oils, for example, since there are biodegradability, reduced allergic potential, the
plenty of interesting materials that can be used sustainability and renewability of raw materi-
not only in natural and organic products, but als, zero-waste production, etc. In few words,
also in more conventional ones. the product of the future should implement
Another aspect that needs to be addressed, basic concepts of care for both the environment
and that could affect the industry, is the use and skin, delivering holistic performance and
of sensory as a formulation driver. Especially therefore including emotional aspects.
capitalizing on the emotional cosmetic trend, From an ingredient point of view, I am par-
natural and organic formulae will need to ticularly interested by the possibility of using
adapt to deliver sensorial experiences aimed at botanical and food waste materials to recover
pleasing consumers. This is also an important chemicals of cosmetic interest. After all, is it not
element of the [well-aging] or “better-aging” the very essence of chemistry to investigate the
approach, which in contrast to the anti-aging composition of natural systems in order to find
view, puts the positive emotions created by the and isolate compounds that can help mankind?
use of cosmetics as a focal point to create a From a performance point of view, I find
sense of enhanced pleasure that can enable a the whole idea of holistic cosmetics extremely
more gracious aging process. fascinating; it is jaw-dropping to think how the
How do you envision this market in gut and brain could actually affect the skin.
the future?
I think the future of natural and organic
products is to be sought beyond the mere

• Text
Protecting
cosmetic formulations
with Citrus Power
Acme Hardesty
in partnership with
Sharon Laboratories
I n the last few years it is quite evident that the world is moving towards a
healthier way of living. Consumers are seeking information, asking questions,
reading product labels and actively looking for natural sourced ingredients in
their skin care products.
Biosecur® Organic Antimicrobial

Cosmetic formulators are constantly searching for innovative ingredients
that will answer the need for green products. For those seeking antimicrobial
protection without using common synthetic preservatives, the answer can be found

Their polyphenolic features are
responsible for these properties.
Flavonoids are found in berries,
black tea and Citrus fruits species
such as tangerine and sweet and
bitter orange.
The positive effects of
flavonoids are well. In personal
care the studies show the ability
of flavonoids to damage bacterial
cell walls giving an excellent
antimicrobial protection against
bacteria.
Sharon™ Biomix
Line
Sharon™ Biomix line is an
alternative preservative solution
for green and natural formulations
based on Biosecur ® in cooperation
with BIOSECUR LAB. The range
is ideal for leave-on and rinse-off
products. It is water soluble, heat
stable, working in a wide pH range,
with recommended level of use
of less than 1%. The Sharon™
Biomix line gives personal
care and cosmetic products a
broad-spectrum protection against
bacteria, mold and yeast.
J-Beauty meets
natural preservation
Japan is one of the world’s largest markets
in Biosecur - natural antimicrobial solution
® for cosmetics and personal care. Wellness
made with organic citrus extracts. Biosecur ® and health are rooted in the Japanese culture
is a certified organic preservative working to and Japanese products are known for their
protect from gram+ and gram- bacteria. It is high-quality.
chemical-free, non-toxic, globally approved, Botanical Factory is in Minamiosumi,
ECOCERT COSMOS certified and USDA a region of many subtropical plants. Their
Organic certified. cosmetic brand “BOTANICANON” is natural
and “original agricultural product”. They
The power of Citrus create “edible-like” cosmetics and their biggest
challenge was to gain sufficient protection to
Polyphenols and Bio- the natural products.
Flavonoids Botanical Factory chose Biosecur ® as
Biosecur ® contains Polyphenols and a sole preservative solution in their brand
Bioflavonoids. Polyphenols are found in nature, “BOTANICANON”, to gain the benefits of a
functioning as protection to the plants against natural, odorless and water soluble system.
microorganisms. Polyphenols are divided into
To learn more about the Biosecur® and the Sharon™ Biomix Line
several groups, one of which is represented
www.sharon-labs.com
by flavonoids. Flavonoids were shown to
display antibacterial and anti-oxidant activity.

Preserving the impossible:
challenging natural-
based formulations
Acme Hardesty
in partnership with
Sharon Laboratories
I t is no surprise that as beauty trends change, new preservative solutions are
needed to address those changes. One segment is considered highly challenging:
Cleansing facial masks enriched with natural ingredients, especially raw materi-
als originating from the ground such mud and clay.
Masks are left on the skin for a duration of 20 minutes, applied on sensitive
areas, by consumers of all ages. Therefore, irritation is a major concern.
In the segment of cleansing facial masks, masks containing mud and clay are
highly preferred and are considered by consumers as safe. However, just because an
ingredient is originating from nature, it doesn’t mean it’s safe for use.
In the case of raw materials such as mud and clay, it is even more critical.
These natural materials are not plant derived, but are rather coming from earth,

generating the benefits of
higher compatibility in the
both anionic and cationic
formulations, reduced risk
of irritation and ensuring all
regulatory barriers are fully
met.
Sharomix™ AM25 was
used on untreated, non
radiated mud from the
Dead-Sea area in Israel, and at
a level of use of 1%, generated
TMAC results of <10, therefore
allowing either avoiding the
costly radiation process, or
changing from an existing
harsh preservative to a more
acceptable one.
The next step was to test
and carry everything that is originating in the the efficacy on the finished formula. Using
ground, including microorganisms. a formula containing 20% Dead-Sea mud, a
Often, the formulator would not have the full challenge test was performed on non-radiated
profile of the raw material: where is the origin, mud, with the preservation system AM25
how is the natural material processed or treated. at a level of 1%, in comparison to the same
A typical bacteria count in mud in several formula with 20% radiated mud, with the
places in the world could be in the range of same preservative at a level of 0.7%. As can
105-10^7. Cosmetic ingredients, including mud be seen in table 1, both challenge tests passed
and clay, must meet the microbial specifications with great results in which after 48 hours
in order to be introduced to a cosmetic formula. all 5 microorganisms had a significant log
Today, a costly radiation process is the standard reduction to <10 , showing the flexibility of the
to treat such materials, as very few acceptable system to handle both potentially high risk
preservatives can meet the challenge to material, as well as treated one at a low usage.
eliminate the microbial risk. When working with The same study was performed on
pre-treated muds, it could have been radiated, Bentonite and Kaolin face mask, with similar
preserved, or both, and the preservative itself good results, with alternative preservative
and the level it was used, is not always known. systems such as Sharomix™ AM20.
Even when the raw material provided to To answer the call for phexnoyethanol-free
the cosmetic manufacturers is sterile, as it is preservation in facial products, a similar study
introduced into the formula, the interaction with was executed with Sharomix™ AM24. This
water could easily generate a preservation issue system, used on the same tough-to-preserve
once again. Combining the original state of the formula containing 20% treated Dead-Sea
raw materials and its interaction in the formula mud, successfully preserved the product at a
is raising a need for a high efficacy solution. level of 0.8%.
Based on extensive work done by Sharon In conclusion, a naturally derived
Laboratories on face masks applications, ingredient does not guarantee safety. In the
starting from the raw material itself and later world of preservation, it is often the opposite.
on the formulations, we show that working When formulating facial care products with
with preservative systems from the Sharomix™ such ingredients we must take into account
Amplify line, will provide broad spectrum the origin on the material, how it was treated,
protection for both the mud itself as well evaluate the risk, then we turn to finding the
as the face mask, at a low level of use. This right solution to answer all aspects: efficacy,
patent-pending line offers high efficacy system, formula compatibility, product claims,
allowing a significantly reduced level of use, regulation and of course, safety.

QUATIN –A ®
Novel Bio-based
Conditioning
Polymer Acme Hardesty
in partnership with
Cosun Biobased Products
Introduction
Cationic biopolymers are
increasingly used in personal
care formulations. Their
unique functionality has
resulted in a wide range of
applications. Additionally,
thanks to the renewable
and bio-based character,
cationic biopolymers are very
suitable for more sustainable
formulations, demonstrating
better performance than
their synthetic alternatives.
As a result of the chemical
and physical differences of
QUATIN®, compared to other
cationic biopolymers, it offers
better performance in various
applications. The reactive
inulin backbone, derived from
chicory (Cichorium Intybus),
allows for unique properties
like high charge density, short
chain length (low Mw), excellent
solubility and low viscosity.

These properties enhance ease of formulation Summarizing
and offer more flexibility. QUATIN® cationic
QUATIN® cationic inulin is a highly
inulin works particularly well as a surfactant
active conditioning polymer based on a
deposition enhancer and for hydrophilization
naturally occurring inulin. It shows excellent
of surfaces (Graph 1). Typical dosage levels
coacervation and deposition properties,
range from 0.1 to 1.0 wt%.
and neutralizes negative charge on hair and
skin. Moreover, cationic inulin provides
Visual coacervation moisturization in both hair and skin care
In order to demonstrate coacervation products. QUATIN® is highly compatible
behavior the various QUATIN® grades were with a wide range of anionic, non-ionic and
evaluated in turbidity tests. From left to right amphoteric surfactants, and is very suitable for
the formulation was further diluted. At first the development of transparent formulations.
the cationic polymer is fully neutralized by Last but not least, QUATIN® cationic inulin
the anionic surfactant system, but is still comes as an easy-to-handle, 40% active
transparent. Upon dilution the Polycat Ion/ polymer in water that can be cold-processed.
Surfactant Ion complex starts to become an
insoluble PI/SI complex (coacervate), which
precipitates. The positively charged QUATIN®
forms a small layer on the (negatively charged)
hair or skin.
Hair conditioning
As a result of the deposition of conditioning
ingredients, combing forces are significantly
reduced. In the graph to the right, the combing
force reduction values, QUATIN® 350 and 680
respectively, are shown at a specific (0.32%
active) concentration in the formulation
(see: Conditioning Shampoo Formula in
the Formulas Section of this e-book). The
reduction in combing forces greatly affects hair
feel and consumer perception after treatment.
QUATIN® is able to increase performance
at very low dose levels and therefore is a
cost-competitive, easy-to-handle solution for
hair care formulations.

Regulatory | C&T ®
KEY POINTS
• The market for natural, green, organic and
sustainable products and ingredients has
exploded, bringing with it entrepreneurs
who are new to this space.
• As such, this article serves as a

beginner's guide to U.S. regulations and
certifications that pertain to this segment,
along with basic rules for product
safety, microbiological testing, claims
substantiation and more.
Beginner's
Guide to
Natural Organic
Product Safety, Claims Support and Preservation
Vol. 134, No. 2 | February 2019
John I. Yablonski David R. Winne

Bio-Control Consultants, LLC, Park City, UT Claims Support Group, LLC, Cold Spring, NY

Beginner's Guide to Natural/Organic
B rowsing a cosmetic
counter, searching
online or tuning into
home shopping net-
works, one cannot
help but notice the
ever-increasing number of cosmetic and
personal care products purporting to be
green, natural or organic that are obviously
targeting the rapidly growing environmen-
tally conscious consumer and spa markets.
Entire sections of exhibitions and trade
shows have been dedicated
Reproduction in English or any other language of all or

part of this article is strictly prohibited.
© 2019 Allured Business Media.
There are no organic standards for personal
care products. To make these claims, it is
mandatory that products be certified.
to creatively promoting the healthful and whole- Labeling Act (FPLA). The term organic is not
some benefits of green personal care. Not only defined in either of these laws or any other
has organic/natural labeling gained prominence regulations the FDA enforces. The National
in the cosmetic market, but also the concepts of Organic Program (NOP), however, does provide
sustainability and renewability. a definition of organic—albeit in foods.
In fact, recent research has shown that more The NOP was made law in October 2002
than half of global consumers profess their and is overseen by the U.S. Department of
beauty and grooming product choices are either Agriculture (USDA). It follows the Organic Food
often or always influenced by the apparent Production Act of 1990, which required the
environmental friendliness and social responsi- USDA to develop national standards for organic
bility of the brand. One of the challenges faced, products. These NOP regulations address all
however, is that with the exception of organic, aspects of food production, processing, delivery
terms such as natural and green do not have any and retail sale. Unlike organic foods and bever-
regulatory definition; although they do have a ages, however, the USDA has not created specific
generic public perception of goodness. standards for formulating, producing, process-
The U.S.-based Natural Products Association ing, handling or labeling cosmetics or personal
(NPA) has established defined qualifications for care products that contain organic ingredients.
natural and does offer a nonregulatory natural Since there are no specific organic standards
certification for foods, household and personal for personal care products, if a manufacturer
care. There is no comparable definition or wants to create a product that claims its ingre-
certification for the term natural. Companies dients are organic, the final product must go
choosing these progressive strategies therefore through a mandatory certification process.
must be fully aware not only of the U.S. regula- Without such certification, any organic claim
tory and certification requirements associated on the principal display panel or any use of the
with substantiating these types of claims, but also USDA Organic seal anywhere on the package
the necessity for basic safety and efficacy testing. is prohibited. Without certification, however,
This article serves as a guide. it is permissible to indicate on the information
panel that the product contains certified organic
Organic Standards ingredients, along with their percentages.
In the U.S., the U.S. Food and Drug Admin- If a personal care product contains or is
istration (FDA) regulates cosmetics under the made up of agricultural ingredients that meet
authority of the Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic the USDA/NOP organic production, handling,
Act (FD&C Act) and the Fair Packaging and processing and labeling standards, it may also
be eligible to be certified under NOP regulations.
These requirements specify that a USDA accred-
The global organic personal care market is ited organic certifying agent must verify the
projected to reach $25.11 billion by 2025, operations that produce the organic agricultural
expanding at an expected CAGR of 9.5% ingredients, plus the handlers of these agricul-
from 2018. tural ingredients and the manufacturer of the
final product, comply with NOP requirements. A
list of USDA Accredited Certifying Agents can be
Source: Grand View Research found on the NOP agency website.

Organic Certification (excluding water and salt) only organically

For organic certification of a farm or busi- produced ingredients. Products may display the
ness in the U.S., the following five basic steps USDA Organic Seal and must display the certify-
are required: ing agent’s name and address.
1. The farm or business must adopt organic “Organic.” The product must contain at least
practices, select a USDA-accredited 95% organically produced ingredients (excluding
certifying agent, and submit an water and salt). The remaining ingredients must
application and applicable fees to the consist of nonagricultural substances approved
certifying agent.
2. The certifying agent
will review the
application and verify
that the practices
specified comply with
USDA (NOP) organic
VIDEO
Confirming CBD Skin Care

regulations.
3. A designated inspec-
Claims
tor will conduct an
D
on-site inspection of
the applicant’s opera-
tion and verify NOP
compliance.
4. The certifying agent
will then review the
application and the oes CBD affect skin in the ways
inspector’s report to
we think? What do the genetic
determine if the appli-
markers tell us? In this poster
cant complies with
the required USDA presentation, given by Bridget
organic regulations. Early of Genemarkers, we learn
5. If all is in order, the results of this hot skin care
the certifying agent trend via the testing of commercial products and extracts
approves certification
using the company's new panel test—plus, how the choice of
and issues the organic
solvent can affect the resulting outcome.
certificate.
In order to maintain
organic certification, a certi-
fied organic farm or business
must annually go through
the review and inspection
process. If the operation
is not located in the U.S.,
there are other alternative
international options for
organic certification.
Organic Labeling
Once an organization is
deemed compliant, the fol-
lowing criteria for allowable
Click here to page 21 of your February digital magazine
labeling is applicable: at www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com/DM
“100% organic.” The to watch this exclusive video.
product must contain

on the National List, or nonorganically pro- product must be adequately substantiated for
duced agricultural products on the National safety prior to marketing. Any such ingredient or
List that are not commercially available in product whose safety is not adequately substan-
organic form. Products may display the USDA tiated prior to marketing is misbranded unless it
Organic Seal and must display the certifying contains the following conspicuous statement on
agent’s name and address. the principal display panel: Warning—the safety
“Made with more than 70% organic ingre- of this product has not been determined.
dients.” These products must contain at least Since the FDA does not have a specific list
70% organic ingredients and the product label of the safety tests required for any particular
can list up to three of the organic ingredients cosmetic product category or ingredient, it
or “food groups” on the principal display panel. becomes the responsibility of the manufacturer
For example, a body lotion made with at least to ensure their product is safe when used in
70% organic ingredients (excluding water and accordance with label directions, or used in a
salt) and only organic herbs may be labeled as way that it is normally and customarily intended
either, “body lotion made with organic lavender, for the product.
rosemary and chamomile;” or “body lotion Further to providing no explicit test method
made with organic herbs.” These products may guidance for accomplishing adequate sub-
not display the USDA Organic Seal but must stantiation of safety, the agency also does not
display the certifying agent’s name and address. specifically define what “adequately substanti-
“Made with less than 70% organic ingre- ated for safety” entails. In order to compensate
dients.” Products made with less than 70% for this lack of specific direction, the industry
organic ingredients cannot use the term organic has established protocols that are generally
anywhere on the principal display panel. They adopted and considered as acceptable for this
may, however, identify the specific ingredients purpose. These industry-developed procedures
that are USDA-certified as being organically are now routinely conducted on new cosmetic
produced in the ingredients statement on the products and ingredients, and are considered to
information panel. These products may not be the minimum criteria necessary to satisfy the
display the USDA Organic Seal and may not safety verification for regulatory requirements.
display a certifying agent’s name and address.
Water and salt also are excluded here. Safety Testing: HRIPT
The Human Repeat Insult Patch Test
Product Safety (HRIPT) is the most commonly performed
Newcomers to cosmetics manufacturing safety test for cosmetics and is used to assess
often believe that because they or their family the potential irritation or allergic response of a
members have used a product on themselves product. Generally, these tests are conducted on
with no apparent issues, or because the product panels of either 50 or 100 healthy volunteers,
contains ingredients that are natural, organic although preliminary screening studies may
or botanical, that the product must be safe. As use fewer subjects. Successful completion of
is well-known, this assumption is absolutely HRIPT studies with no adverse findings can
incorrect. In many cases, a natural or botanical support such claims as dermatologically tested,
ingredient may harbor chemical or microbial clinically tested, safe for skin and hypoallergenic.
contaminants that can be harmful to the Interestingly, there are no federal standards
consumer. For example, poison ivy is natural, or definitions that govern the use of the term
organic and botanical; however, it is not safe for hypoallergenic. Essentially, the term can, and is,
most of the population. interpreted in any way a particular company
In addition to proper ingredient certification wants it to be interpreted.
and labeling, verification of product safety and Contract Research Organizations (CROs)
the proof of product effectiveness are the most offer HRIPT testing studies on shared (multiple
critically important prequalification elements product) or exclusive (single product) human
in new product introductions. According to the panels using one of the following generally
FDA (CFR 21, ch 1, subchapter G, part 740, recognized methods.
subpart B, 740.10), each ingredient used in a Jordan and King method: This is the
cosmetic product and each finished cosmetic industry’s standard method of patch testing. The

The manufacturer
is responsible
for ensuring its
products are
safe when used in
accordance with
label directions.
procedure was derived from the original Draize wherein nine consecutive patches are applied
method for HRIPT using a three-week induc- to the same skin site on the arms or back for
tion period followed by a one-week break and a 24 hr, three times per week. After removal of the
second challenge in order to determine whether patch at each time point, the induction site is
the test product has caused the body to elicit an evaluated for erythema and edema. Two weeks
allergenic reaction. For these studies, occlusive after the last induction, a challenge patch is
or semi-occlusive patches (stretchable cotton applied for 24 hr and subsequently read at 48 hr
with adhesive backing) or Finn Chambers (fully and 96 hr. The response after the final challenge
occlusive aluminum chambers) are used. is compared to the responses reported after the
Kligman method: For this method, the test series of early induction patches. The induction
site is initially pre-irritated with sodium lauryl patch responses are the basis for interpreting a
sulfate in order to maximize the body's response product’s potential for cumulative irritation.
to irritants. Once pre-irritated, procedures similar
to the Jordan and King method of patch testing Preservative Efficacy
are followed. This test protocol can identify prod- Prior to conducting any human testing
ucts that have a minimal potential to sensitize. protocols, the test product or ingredient must
Shelanski/Shelanski method: In this test, an be free from microbial contamination and
induction phase is performed for three weeks, adequately preserved or protected so as to

prevent microbial proliferation from occur- opted to use equally effective accelerated (single
ring during human-panel testing. This is or double) preservative challenge screening
normally accomplished by conducting both protocols such as PCPC M-7 or equivalent.
a microbial content assay for the presence of This approach can speed up the microbio-
microorganisms, followed by a Preservative logical evaluation process so that safety testing
Efficacy Test (PET) to determine the degree can be more quickly initiated without incurring
of resistance a test material may have toward significant risk to the product or panelist. Since
microbial contamination. many panel test methodologies call for a period
There are various options for conducting of induction and/or pretest skin irritation, it is
these procedures but the most frequently mandatory that the microbiological safety of
used protocols are those of the Personal Care the test material be predetermined prior to any
Products Council (PCPC), or modifications panel test material exposure.
thereof. Since the duration of panel studies is
usually relatively short, abbreviated accelerated Additional Testing
preservative challenge tests are frequently used. HRIPT, PET and microbial content studies
For example, rather than conducting a long- are also required for most claims substan-
term 28-day procedure, such as that depicted tiation studies that involve further human
in PCPC M-3 or one of the other 28-day stan- clinical testing. Furthermore, in the interest
dardized methodologies, e.g., those of the U.S. of additional due diligence and depending on
Pharmacopeia (USP), European Pharmacopeia the nature of the test material, manufacturers
(EP)/British Pharmacopeia (BP), Japanese may also want to consider conducting one
Pharmacopeia (JP) or American Society for or more of the following claim verification
Testing and Materials (ASTM), many have protocols: Safety-in-use Testing, conducted
Successful completion of HRIPT studies with no adverse findings can support such claims as dermatologically tested and clinically tested.

under the supervision of an ophthalmologist be developed so that only those individuals who
or dermatologist to support dermatologist- or are most appropriately qualified for the particular
ophthalmologist-tested or -approved claims; study being conducted are selected. Attention to
Phototoxicity and Photoallergy, for sun-safe detail during this initial screening process is criti-
claims; and Comedogenicity studies that evalu- cal to effectively evaluating the end results of a
ate the potential for a topical material to block treatment process. Examples of typical inclusion
skin pores. and exclusion selection criteria are as follows:
• Suggested Standards for Inclusion
Claims Substantiation a. Female subjects between the ages of 40-60
Once minimal safety has been established, years old experiencing fine lines and
the next steps for cosmetic ingredient suppli- skin dryness.
ers and finished goods manufacturers is to b. Individuals in normal health condition
substantiate label and marketing claims via with no evidence of acute or chronic dis-
any of a wide range of efficacy investigations. eases and not having any known allergy to
Depending on the ultimate endpoint(s) of cosmetic products.
distribution for a product, there may be some c. Individuals willing to report to the test
locally specific requirements. For example, the facility with clean skin.
Home Shopping Network (HSN) and Quarate d. Individuals who have completed a
Retail Group’s QVC network have their own sets preliminary medical history form.
of criteria for on-air claims, as do major retail e. Individuals who read, understood and
chains such as Walmart and CVS. If any of signed an informed consent document
these or other similar retail groups is the target relating to the specific type of study to
marketing channel, it is strongly advised to which they are subscribing.
have extensive communication with the legal or f. Individuals willing to cooperate with
reviewing teams of these organizations, to gain the investigator, comply with protocol
their approval for the protocols used prior to requirements and are able to complete the
conducting studies for claims support. full course of the study.
g. Individuals who have abstained from
Product Acceptability using any anti-aging, moisturizing and
The simplest and usually least expensive skin lightening products for at least 72 hr
option for collecting test product feedback prior to study initiation, and who agree to
on product acceptability is through the use of use only the assigned test product for the
appropriately selected consumer test panels, duration of the study.
coupled with properly constructed consumer h. Individuals who will abstain from tanning
subjective questionnaires. In order to avoid and will avoid sun exposure to test sites
the possible influence of placebo effects, which for a period of 72 hr prior to study
have been estimated to be as high as 30%, commencement and for the duration of
surveys should be administered to groups of the study.
volunteers in a double-blind design, wherein • Suggested Standards for Exclusion
both the investigator and subject do not know a. Subjects exhibiting rashes, scratches,
which treatment is being received. birthmarks, etc., that might interfere with
It is also important that test participants the evaluation of test result observations.
have a clear understanding of the questions as b. Female volunteers who indicate that they
they pertain to the skin condition being treated. are pregnant or lactating.
If, for example, it is an anti-aging product, the c. Individuals who are under the care of
subject should have an honest perception of a doctor.
their wrinkles at the beginning to establish a d. Individuals with active dermal lesions,
proper baseline—and then, an honest percep- warts, nevi or moles on the test site at the
tion of their wrinkles following treatment. time of evaluation.
Panelist selection: For any given product e. Individuals with known hypersensitivity
safety or claim support protocol, the participant to cosmetic products.
selection process is crucial. Specific inclusion f. Individuals who were taking any
and exclusion guidelines for participation must antibiotics, antihistamines, retinoid,

anti-inflammatory or steroid therapy two qualitatively describe the skin surface as an
weeks prior to or during the study period. index: skin smoothness (Sesm), skin roughness
g. Individuals who were using systemic or (Ser), scaliness (Sesc) and wrinkles (Sew).
topical medication two weeks prior to or Age spots and skin/hair color: A skin
during the study period. colorimeter is used for the evaluation of age
spots and other skin discolorations. The probe
Instrumental Evaluation measures changes in skin and hair color
For objective verification and more scientifi- by sending out white LED light, arranged
cally robust data, user perception results can circularly to uniformly illuminate the skin.
be supplemented with additional data acquired The emitted light is scattered in all directions
through expert visual grading; before and after including through the skin layers and echo-
photographic image analysis; or the use various ing back out; this reflected light is what the
instrumental evaluations. Some of the more probe measures. The raw data from the probe
commonly employed types of test equipment are is calibrated against a special color matrix
as follows: coordinated with established standard values
Skin surface: A UVA light video camera with and expressed as coordinates in the L*, a*, b*
high resolution is used to study the skin surface color space or RGB model.
directly. Its images show the detailed structure Moisturization: The corneometer is the
of skin and are useful for evaluating the effects most commonly used, reproducible method
of wrinkle treatments. This approach employs for moisturization studies. It accurately deter-
the Surface Evaluation of Living Skin (SELS) mines the degree of skin surface hydration.
method, which analyzes the gray level distribu- This measurement is based on the capacitance
tion of the skin and allows for the calculation of a medium to detect changes in the dielectric
of four clinical parameters to quantitatively and constant due to skin-surface hydration.
Products made with less than 70% organic ingredients cannot use the term organic anywhere on the pricipal display panel.

Barrier function: Transepidermal Water Since there are no “standard” tests for
Loss (TEWL) evaluates skin-barrier integrity conducting abbreviated testing for most types
and is measured using a specialized devicea. It of claims, study designs and protocols must
is based on the principle that a certain level of be carefully planned and designed so as to
water evaporation from the skin always takes maximize the quality of the data produced.
place as part of normal skin metabolism. If the Choices for methods employed vary greatly but
barrier function of the skin is slightly damaged, are usually influenced by factors including: the
however, the rate of water loss will increase. specifics of claims; the endpoint of distribution
The device probe measures the density for the product or ingredients (i.e., shopping
gradient of the water evaporation from skin networks, internet advertising or retail chain);
indirectly with a pair of temperature and internal company philosophy; as well as factors
relative humidity sensors located inside an such as meaningful population sizes, study
open chamber cylinder. The open chamber duration and ultimately, budget.
measurement method is the only method to
assess the TEWL continuously without outside Proper Labeling
factors influencing its microenvironment. A With regard to product claims, proper
microprocessor is used to analyze the values labeling is an important aspect of putting a
and expresses the evaporation rate in g/hr/m2. cosmetic product on the market. As noted,
Firmness/elasticity: The cutometer mea- the FDA regulates cosmetic labeling under the
sures the firmness and elasticity of the upper authority of the FD&C Act and the FPLA. These
skin layer by deforming it mechanically using laws and their related regulations are intended
negative pressure. The measuring principle is to protect consumers from health hazards
based on suction. Negative pressure is cre- and deceptive practices while also helping
ated in the device and the skin is drawn into them to make informed decisions regarding
the aperture of the probe for a defined time product purchases.
before being released. The penetration depth is It is important to note the FDA has no legal
determined by a noncontact optical measuring authority for the premarket approval of cos-
system inside the probe. This system consists metic product labeling. It is the manufacturer
of two prisms facing each other, serving as the or distributor's responsibility to ensure that
light source, and a light receptor. products are labeled properly. Failure to comply
The light intensity varies due to the penetra- with labeling requirements may result in a mis-
tion depth of the skin. The resistance of skin to branded product subject to potential warning
the negative pressure, firmness and its ability letters, fines and recalls.
to return to its original position, i.e., elasticity, In addition, as part of the prohibition
are calculated in terms of penetration depth against false or misleading information, no
in mm/time and is displayed as curves in real cosmetic may be labeled or advertised with
time during the measurement. The information statements suggesting the FDA has approved
derived from this measurement regarding the the product. A cosmetic can be considered
elastic and mechanical properties of the skin misbranded for any of the following reasons:
surface allows one to demonstrate an objective • Improper packaging and labeling of
quantification of skin aging. color additives;
Preliminary screenings: If timelines • False and misleading labeling;
allow, it can be valuable to conduct prelimi- • Packages missing labeling information
nary screenings on smaller test populations required by statute or regulation;
at shorter and fewer evaluation intervals to • Required information is not conspicuous or
observe emerging efficacy trends and identify is illegible; and
potentially problematic issues. This allows for • Misleading packaging such as a container
a better sense of confidence in the methods made or filled in a deceptive manner.
of investigation chosen, and a greater expec-
tation that the product will deliver results Drug Claims
as anticipated. While the FDA does not have a specific list
of acceptable versus unacceptable claims, it
a
Tewameter, Courage & Khazaka evaluates cosmetic claims in the total context

The FD&C Acti and FPLA laws and their regulations are intended to protect consumers from health hazards and deceptive practices.
of all label wording as well as the images and may be multiple references to this term in the
promotional materials included in advertising literature. A product can be a drug, a cosmetic
and on websites. Of significance to cosmetic or a combination of both—but it cannot be
manufacturers is the fact that the agency distin- a cosmeceutical since this classification has
guishes cosmetics from drug products based on absolutely no meaning under the law.
labeled or published claims. Example cosmetic claims: Examples of
The FD&C Act defines drugs, in part, by allowable cosmetic claims include: cleansing,
their intended use, as "articles intended for use moisturizing, smoothing, freshening, helps to…
in the diagnosis, cure, mitigation, treatment or and improves the appearance of….
prevention of disease," and "articles (other than Example drug claims: Examples of
food) intended to affect the structure or any drug claims are: for the treatment of redness,
function of the body of man or other animals." acne, eczema, psoriasis or scars/wounds; and
Cosmetics are defined by their intended use anti-inflammatory, antiseptic/antibacterial/
as, "articles intended to be rubbed, poured, antimicrobial and effects related to blood
sprinkled or sprayed on, introduced into or circulation. Regarding drug claims, wording
otherwise applied to the human body … for related to affecting structure or function, such
cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractive- as increases collagen production and speeds up
ness or altering appearance.” Products such melatonin should be avoided.
as anti-dandruff shampoos are considered to OTC drugs: There are also categories
be both cosmetics and drugs. It should also be of products such as sunscreens and anti-
noted that the FD&C Act does not recognize any perspirants that are considered OTC drug
category as cosmeceuticals, even though there products. These have specific Final Rules and

The FDA has no legal authority for the

pre-market approval of cosmetic labeling
but failure to comply with requirements can
result in fines and recalls.
Guidelines dictating the test methods that must Antiperspirants: According to the FDA guide-
be employed for determining their efficacy. lines, antiperspirant (AP) testing is conducted
Products such as deodorants that are also on panels of subjects who have not used AP
antiperspirants, or moisturizers and makeup products for at least 17 days, and who produce
marketed with sun-protection claims must at least 150 mg of sweat in the untreated under-
comply with the requirements for both cosmet- arm axilla under environmentally controlled
ics and drugs. high temperature (100°F + 2°F) and humidity
SPF value: SPF is a measure of how well a (35% + 2%) conditions.
sunscreen will protect skin from UVB rays—the As per the FDA’s Code of Federal Regulations,
kind of radiation that causes sunburn, damages Title 21, Volume 5, Part 350, the labeling of
skin and can contribute to skin cancer. If an antiperspirant drug products must conform to
individual’s skin would normally burn after 10 the following:
min in the sun, applying an SPF 15 sunscreen (1) For any product, the labeling states:
would allow them to stay in the sun without (select one of the following: decreases, lessens
burning for approximately 150 min; i.e., a factor or reduces) underarm (select one of the follow-
of 15 times longer. This is a rough estimate that ing: dampness, perspiration, sweat, sweating or
depends on skin type, intensity of sunlight and wetness).
amount of sunscreen used. The SPF is actually (2) The labeling may state: also (select one
a measure of protection from the amount of of the following: decreases, lessens or reduces)
UVB exposure, however, and is not intended underarm (select one of the following: damp-
to help consumers determine the duration of ness, perspiration, sweat, sweating or wetness)
that exposure. due to stress.
UVB claim: In the U.S., in order to make (3) For products that demonstrate standard
a UVB claim, a sunscreen must undergo SPF effectiveness, defined as 20% sweat reduction
testing using the method described in the FDA over a 24-hr period, the labeling may state:
Sunscreen Final Rule; 21 CFR Parts 201 and (select one of the following: all day protection,
310. There are three main types of SPF testing: lasts all day, lasts 24 hours or 24 hour protection).
SPF Static, with no water immersion; SPF Water (4) For products that demonstrate extra
Resistant 40 Minutes; and SPF Water Resis- effectiveness, defined as 30% sweat reduction,
tant 80 Minutes. the labeling may state: extra effective.
All sunscreen manufacturers must adhere (5) Products that demonstrate extra effective-
to the exact same FDA approved tests, ensur- ness, defined as 30% sweat reduction sustained
ing that the SPF claims are consistent across over a 24-hr period, may state the claims in para-
all sunscreens whether they are chemical or graphs 3 and 4 of this section either individually
mineral. SPF testing is conducted with human or combined. For example: 24 hour extra effective
subjects using FDA-approved and spectrally protection, all day extra effective protection, extra
certified solar simulators. The SPF for a product effective protection lasts 24 hours or extra effective
is calculated by dividing MEDp/MEDu, where protection lasts all day.
MEDp is the Minimal Erythema Dose of the pro- The labeling of antiperspirant products also
tected test site, i.e., site treated with sunscreen, must contain the following statements under the
and MEDu is the Minimal Erythemal Dose of the heading Warnings:
Unprotected, i.e., untreated, test site. (1) Do not use on broken skin.

More than half of global consumers profess their beauty and grooming product choices are influenced by their apparent environmenal friendliness.
(2) Stop use if rash or irritation occurs. ments for these product forms can lead to very
(3) Ask a doctor before use if you have costly errors in both dollars and reputation.
kidney disease. As such, many have found it valuable and
(4) For products in an aerosolized dosage economically responsible to seek the advice
form, When using this product, keep away from and council of reputable experts in the fields of
face and mouth to avoid breathing it. This product safety, claim substantiation, regulatory
warning is required by §369.21 of the chapter affairs and microbiology, to assist in guiding
for drugs in dispensers pressurized by gaseous them through this process.
propellants.
The label must also include the following Additional Reading
statement under the heading Directions: apply All websites accessed on Aug. 31, 2018.
to underarms only. Beecher, H. K. (1995). The powerful placebo. JAMA,
159(17), 1602-1606.
Conclusions CFR 21, Chapter 1, Subchapter G, Part 740, Subpart B,
As is evidenced by the discussion, the road 740.10. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/
scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?CFRPart=740
to achieving successful and compliant claim
CTFA Microbial Guidelines, M-3, A Method for Preserva-
substantiation and labeling can be one of tion Testing of Water-Miscible Personal Care Products,
many twists and turns, especially for the green, Washington, D.C.: Personal Care Products Council (2007)
natural and organic entrepreneur. With a basic CTFA Microbial Guidelines, M-7, A Rapid Method for Pres-
understanding of the concepts and require- ervation Testing of Water-Miscible Personal Care Products,
Washington, D.C.: Personal Care Products Council (2007)
ments involved in the safety and verification
FDA’s Code of Federal Regulations, Title 21, Volume 5,
processes, however, one can be much better Part 350. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/
prepared to face challenges as they come. scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=350.1
Underestimating the complexity of the require-

FDA Sunscreen Final Rule; 21 CFR Parts 201 and 310. Labeling Organic Products. Retrieved from https://www.
Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/ ams.usda.gov/sites/default/files/media/Labeling%20
cdrh/cfdocs/cfCFR/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=201 Organic%20Products.pdf
HSN Quality Assurance: Cosmetic Standards Manual Matthews, I. (2017, Feb. 6). Sustainability: The Driving
(Dec. 30, 2015) Force Behind Beauty Consumer Purchases.* Retrieved
Jordan, W. P., and King, S. E. (1977). Delayed hypersen- from https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/marketdata/
sitivity in females during the comparison of two predictive consumers/Sustainability-The-Driving-Force-Behind-
patch tests, Contact Derm, 3, 19-26. Beauty-Consumer-Purchases-412904703.html
Kligman, A. M., and Epstein, W. L. (1959). Mechanisms of Courage + Khazaka electronic GmbH. Retrieved from
Hypersensitivity. Boston: Little Brown. https://www.courage-khazaka.de
Kligman, A. M. (1966). The identification of allergens by (2018, Feb. 2). "Cosmeceutical." Retrieved from https://
human assay III: The maximization test: A procedure for www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/labeling/claims/ucm127064.htm
screening and rating contact sensitizers. J Invest Dermatol, (2018, Sept. 4). "Organic" Cosmetics. Retrieved from
47, 393-409. https://www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/Labeling/Claims/
Mulberry, G. K., Entryup, M. R., and Agin, U. R. (1987). ucm203078.htm
Rapid screening methods for preservative efficacy evalua- (2018, Aug. 2). Is It a Cosmetic, a Drug, or Both? (Or Is It
tions. Cosm & Toil, 103(12), 47-53. Soap?). Retrieved from https://www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/
Shelanski, H. A., and Shelanski, M. V. (1953). A new GuidanceRegulation/LawsRegulations/ucm074201.htm
technique of human patch tests. The Proceedings of the (2017, Nov. 3). "Hypoallergenic" Cosmetics. Retrieved
Scientific Section of the Toilet Goods Association, 19 49. from https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/labeling/claims/
Vogel, H. G., Hock, F. J., Maas, J., and Mayer, D. (2006). ucm2005203.htm
Drug Discovery and Evaluation: Safety and Pharmacokinetic (2018, March 6). Labeling Regulations. Retrieved from
Assays. Springer. https://www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/Labeling/Regulations/
Yablonski, J. I., and Mancuso, S. E. (2009). Preservative default.htm#pre-approve
efficacy testing: Accelerating the process. In Microorgan- (2018, Sept. 4). Small Businesses & Homemade Cosmetics:
isms and Cosmetics (229-245). Carol Stream, IL U.S.: Fact Sheet. Retrieved from https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/
Alluredbooks. resourcesforyou/industry/ucm388736.htm#7
Yablonski, J. I., and Mancuso, S. E. (2002). Preservation of Making Cosmetics. Retrieved from https://www.making-
atypical products. Cosm & Toil, 117(4). cosmetics.com/Organic-Certification-of-Cosmetics_ep_66.
Yablonski, J. I. (1997). Strategies for cosmetic preservation. html?locale=en
Cosm & Toil, 92(3), 22-31.

Formulating | C&T ®
KEY POINTS
• Demand for naturals in hair care has given
rise to new strategies for fortifying the
supply chain and ensuring the extracts
promised are also the extracts received.
• This article provides a look at historic uses
of botanicals in hair, considers responsible
sourcing, and reviews techniques to verify
extracts and their constituents.
Rooted
in Nature
Rooted in Nature
Botanicals for Hair and Responsibly

Sourcing Them: A Review
Monique S. J. Simmonds
Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, Surrey, U.K.
T
Jennifer M. Marsh, Ph.D.
The Procter & Gamble Company, Cincinnati, Ohio, U.S.
Vol. 134, No. 6 | June 2019
here is a rich history of hair is henna, which was used by many civiliza-
botanical extracts being tions for more than 6,000 years. Derived from
utilized as hair products. the plant Lawsonia inermis, its shoots and leaves
For thousands of years, were first dried, then crushed to form a paste that,
plant oils were commonly when mixed with water, could coat hair to give it a
used across all ancient red color.
civilizations to cleanse, condition, color and Other plants to color hair included indigo dye
scent hair. The choice of oil varied depending extracts, from plants of the genus Indigofera, for
on the availability of materials entering trade a black color; and saffron flowers, which were
routes: in ancient Egypt, almond, palm and mixed with lye to create a red-gold dye in Europe
sesame oils were used; in ancient Greece, olive during the Renaissance period. This became
oil was common; and in Europe during the known as “Titian red” after the famous Italian art-
Middle Ages, flax and hemp oil were popular. ist who painted beautiful women with red-golden
Natural color: Plant oils also were used hair during the late 1500s.1
for hair coloring. During the Roman Empire, Cleansing and care: Botanical extracts have
walnut shells were steeped in olive oil to turn also been used historically for hair cleansing and
it brown, which was then used to hide gray scalp treatments, such as citrus plants in ancient
hair. In China, oil from tea seeds was used to Egypt; the peel of quince fruit for cleansing alone
make hair as black as possible.1 Perhaps the in Arabia; and an extract of nettles to combat
best-known example of a plant extract to color dandruff in Europe during the Middle Ages.1
facebook.com/CandTmagazine Cosmetics & Toiletries @cosmeticsandtoiletries

Natural oils, butters and waxes such as
argan, coconut and shea are commonly used
to add a smooth feel and shine to hair in
rinse-out products and treatments.
During the 1800s, synthetic ingredients first

became available. In the 1930s, the first synthetic
surfactant-containing shampoo was commercial-
The global organic hair care market is expected
ized, at which point the use of botanical extracts to register a 6.2% CAGR between 2017 and
significantly decreased. However, since the 1990s, 2022 to reach a value of $4.1 billion.
the popularity of botanical extracts as added ingre-
dients in hair products and all-natural products has
been growing and continues to do so. Source: Fact.MR
Today’s demand: Today, the global naturals hair
care segment is worth ~$8 billion and is expanding
at an average of 8%—with all regions
seeing growth. This is driven by a
consumer desire to live a healthier life-
style that involves caring for oneself by
eating less processed foods, exercising
more and using natural in place of
synthetic products, wherever available. VIDEO
In addition, there is an increased sense
of social responsibility to protect the
Natural Soy Conditioning

environment for future generations.
Natural oils, butters and waxes—
such as argan oil, coconut oil and shea
butter—are commonly used to provide
conditioning benefits including
smooth feel and shine to hair via rinse-
out products and treatments. Natural
dyes such as henna and indigo are also
gaining popularity in the color space
as the naturals segment increases,
building off ancient traditions.
The readily available information
on the internet is enabling naturals’
growth, in addition to influential
bloggers, who in many cases highlight
naturals as the preferred option.
Meanwhile, the industry is seeking
superior botanical extracts to provide
better-performing product solutions Click here to page 56 of your June digital magazine at
and meet these consumer needs. How- www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com/DM
to watch this exclusive video.
ever, in sourcing botanical actives,
there are several elements that must
be considered.

true for extracts produced on a large scale or in
Sourcing Strategies places where the market is rapidly growing. Take
The first consideration is whether the supply citrus oils as an example: they are not only used
of a botanical ingredient is sustainable for both in cosmetics, but many other industries including
the environment and the community in which it flavors for baked goods and beverages, plus in the
is grown. Second, if the extract is of a good and health industry for aromatherapy and phytomedi-
consistent quality. The third is the extract’s safety. cine. The market revenue of orange oil production,
Finally, the extract must meet consumer expecta- alone, in 2017 was $1.8 billion,3 and the cumulative
tions for functionality; here, knowledge about annual growth rate is predicted to be 4.7% over the
plants and their chemistry enhances the ability to next 10 years—driven mainly by an increased use in
select the best sources of sustainably grown, quality cosmetic products.
plants for optimum bioactivity.
Another issue facing suppliers and manufactur- Strain on Sources
ers that want to acquire and develop new botanical It is also important to ensure that countries sup-
extracts is to ensure compliance with the Conven- plying this newly found citrus demand—e.g., Brazil,
tion on Biodiversity and associated policies such the U.S. and India—have long-term planning in
as the Nagoya Protocol. These entities have an place for increased production. This is especially
objective for the “fair and equitable sharing of true in the case of unforeseen environmental
the benefits arising from the utilization of genetic damage, such as by hurricanes; when Hurricane
resources.”2 This relates to obtaining prior consent Irma hit Florida in 2017, production was impacted
for the commercialization of an extract from the in such a way that it still has not fully recovered in
country in which the plant originates. 2019.
Sourcing strategies for botanical extracts This is also highly relevant for more rare
are crucial for both new and existing extracts to extracts, where high demand has put pressure on
ensure supply is sustainable. This is especially cultivation methods. In fact, the Convention on

International Trade in Endangered Species of than the essential oil, is common. Another
Wild Flora and Fauna (CITES) lists species that example is Chamomilla recutita (chamomile oil),
should not be used for botanical extracts, or that which is used medicinally, where its content
should only be used if suppliers can show they of b-bisabolol can be altered with addition of
came from sustainably cultivated sources. For synthetic bisabolol.8
example, most species of orchids are covered
by CITES, and only a few are allowed for use Quality and Safety
in cosmetics—and these must come from Adulteration, however, is not the only source
cultivated sources and be accompanied by the of quality concerns for botanical extracts.
appropriate paperwork. Chemical constituents of the botanical can
There are other examples of plants where vary according to harvest season, the habitat of
demand is outstripping supply. One is sandal-
wood oil, which is widely used in the cosmetic,
perfumery and aromatherapy industries. The
most renowned sandalwood oil is distilled
from the sandalwood tree Santalum album L.
(Santalaceae), and specifically from its heart-
wood or duramen—which is the dead, central
part of the tree. Yield of the yellow, fragrant oil
is only 2.5-6.0%, depending on the environment
and the tree age.4
Furthermore, the trees are slow-growing
and only produce significant amounts of oil
after reaching 20-25 years of age. Therefore,
increased market pressure on sandalwood oil
as a desired cosmetic ingredient has meant that
in regions such as India, where S. album trees
are grown, plant populations have dramatically
declined. In addition, extract quality has some-
times been compromised. This is due in some
cases to the use of oil from younger trees, with a
less developed heartwood; but also where the oil
has been adulterated by oil from other tree spe-
cies such as castor, cedarwood or “sandalwood”
species other than S. album. In some cases,
adulteration with a synthetic or semi-synthetic
substitute such as methyl-5-(2,2,3-trimethylcy-
clopent-3-en-1-yl)pentan-2-ol5 or a diluent such
as polyethylene glycol has been measured.6
There are many other examples of adulter-
ants being added to extracts, especially where
prices of the extract are high and sourcing is
difficult. Essential oils are particularly prone
to this issue and adulteration may take several
forms.7 As noted, this can be via dilution with a
nonvolatile ingredient such as vegetable oil to
reduce the cost, or the addition of a synthetic
or natural adulterant that enhances the qual-
ity of the essential oil. Another example is
iris essential oil, whose price depends on the
percentage of irone. This gives the oil its distinc-
tive and desired olfactory experience. Therefore,
adulterating the oil with synthetic a-irone
and b-irone, which are significantly cheaper

Rooted in Nature
Once a plant species is chosen, another

question is which part of the plant should be
used—in addition to the extraction method.
the plants, the drying processes used, and the it is a rinse-off or leave-on product; daily or
extraction and isolation process. One example weekly use; etc. Stabilization of the extract
is provided by Aloe vera, whose powdered form, against microbial attack is another important
in one case, revealed concentrations of organic consideration, especially if the sample is in an
acids whereas the only organic acid found in aqueous solvent.
fresh Aloe vera gel was malic acid. Commercial
aloe powders were analyzed and found to also Functional Naturals
include lactic and succinic acid, which are indi- Once sustainability, quality and safety have
cators of bacterial fermentation and enzymatic been confirmed, the question of functionality
degradation, respectively;9 this indicated a becomes paramount. There are thousands of
substandard extract. plant species and these contain millions of
Besides the quality of the extract, it is impor- different compounds, so identifying the right
tant to confirm its safety profile and consistency plants for the required activity can be challeng-
across the board. This ensures no constituents ing. One can look to history as a guide, as there
could potentially cause acute or chronic health are many traditional uses of plants—such as oils
impacts. To validate safety and consistency, a for moisturization and protection, or aloe vera
comparative approach has been used, wherein for skin irritation—that are worth further study.
chemical groups in the extract are identified as Chinese and Ayurvedic medicine both use
suitable for a read-across approach. This allows plants for treating a wide range of diseases, and
for the estimation of toxicological endpoints plants including digitalis, foxglove, atropine and
based on data from substances with related belladonna are the sources of some of the most
physical/chemical properties. potent drug actives. There are also synergies
However, botanical ingredients are complex between plants and ecological challenges that
mixtures consisting of numerous individual phy- can be exploited; such as plants that adapt
tochemical constituents, so this approach may to protect themselves against environmental
not be suitable in all cases. One alternative is to insults such as UV, microbial infection, arid
take a tiered approach, which aims to provide a conditions or heat. As an example, plants often
comprehensive yet time-efficient assessment.10 contain vitamins C and A, which aid in their
Tier 1 involves establishing a threshold of cellular protection but can also help in skin
toxicological concern (TTC) based on an initial protection. Functional naturals are used for hair
TTC exposure limit of 0.15 µg/day, and adjusting and scalp care, including oils for conditioning
this based on the concentration of phytochemi- benefits and natural dyes such as henna for hair
cal constituents of concern found in plants for coloring. Coconut oil and aloe vera are also sold
genotoxicity and carcinogenicity end points. for scalp benefits including anti-dandruff, anti-
When the botanical active exceeds the TCC, irritation and anti-itch.
Tier 2 investigates if documented significant Once a plant species has been identified,
human use data exists to act as a surrogate another question is which part of the plant
measure for safety. If insufficient, Tier 3 involves should be used for the extract—the flower, leaf
the identification and quantification of botani- or root. Furthermore, the method of extraction
cal constituents. These individual constituents can yield a different mix of constituents. The
are then assessed via in silico toxicology tools solvent choice, for example, can dramatically
to identify hazards. The overall safety assess- impact the extract composition, with the
ment would then also consider product use, more hydrophilic constituents extracted into
i.e., expected dose on hair versus scalp; whether aqueous and alcoholic solvents, and the more

hydrophobic constituents extracted via solvents
such as hexane or via supercritical carbon
dioxide extraction.
Often, finding the right extract comes down
to first identifying the desired end benefit, then
setting up tests to screen a wide range of extracts
in a relatively short time. Once a few materials give
good results in the initial screening, more com-
plex screening tests can be performed; as well as
optimizing extraction or looking at similar plants
to get the best-performing extract. Lead candidates
can then be tested in clinical or consumer protocols
to confirm functionality.
Chemical Analysis and

Authentication
With questions of sustainability, quality, safety
and functionality in mind, methods are needed to
assess botanicals; a range of instrumental tech-
niques is now employed, e.g., physical, chemical, the authentication of extracts and essential oils.
chromatographic and spectroscopic analysis. These Plants produce metabolites in many instances
methods range from simple actions—i.e., test- as chiral molecules, and enantiomers can differ
ing the color, odor, density and refractive indices from one species to another within the same
of essential oils—to the complex; for example, genus—which can impart very different biologi-
identifying and quantifying the key components of cal properties. For example, (R)-limonene is
an aloe vera gel using gas chromatography (GC), responsible for the odor of oranges whereas
liquid chromatography (LC) mass or nuclear mag- (S)-limonene imparts the odor of lemons; (R)-
netic resonance (NMR) spectroscopy techniques. carvone has a spearmint odor and (S)-carvone
Said spectroscopy techniques are powerful has a cumin odor. By measuring the chirality of
because they can separate the key individual com- the constituents of an oil, it is possible to iden-
ponents of a complex botanical mixture and give tify chiral ratios that can be used as a chemical
their structural chemistry via an accurate mass, or fingerprint for the detection of essential oils
in the case of NMR, the carbon or proton signal of mixed with synthetic substitutes that are typi-
the components. In some cases, a series of marker cally in racemic form or the addition of other,
components can be identified, which confirms the cheaper oils with similar properties.
identify of specific plants used for an extract—i.e., Perhaps one of the most powerful tools for
its specific “fingerprint.” chemical identification is isotope-ratio mass
For instance, the term ginseng can cover a spectrometry (IRMS), but it requires a very
wide range of botanicals; e.g., species of Panax, experienced operator and a library of validated
Eleutherococcus (syn. Acanthopanax), Codonopsis, essential oils of known provenance to be used as
Gynostermma and Withania. These extracts are standards. It can then be utilized for identifying
consumed as dietary and medicinal supplements, adulterated extracts as well as discriminating
but there are significant variations in their con- between different geographical or botanical
stituents. LC-MS methods have identified four origins, allowing for the assignment of sample
malonyl-ginsenosides in species of Panax traded as provenance.
ginseng, and also characterized differences accord- This technique measures the relative abun-
ing to where the ginseng was sourced as Panax dance of isotopes in a sample, such as the ratio
ginseng (Asian ginseng), P. quinquefolius (American of stable isotopes of carbon, hydrogen, oxygen
ginseng) or P. notoginseng (Sanchi ginseng).11 Thus, or nitrogen. For example, this method has been
the results of these methods can provide useful applied to characterizing wines via the deute-
information to rapidly identify the source, and rium/hydrogen ratio of the ethanol and water in
potentially the quality, of the ginseng being sold. samples of wine. These ratios are influenced by
Chiral GC is a related tool that can be useful for the vine variety, vine location, harvesting date

Rooted in Nature
and environmental conditions. The analysis of such Conclusions

data enables the characterization of the location
As the natural hair care product category
of grapes even down to well-defined areas, such as
continues to expand, authentication and
certain French districts.12
responsible sourcing of botanical extracts will
Finally, a very powerful technique to identify
be an area of focus. Ensuring products are
an unknown sample is DNA analysis, whereby the
consistently high quality and are safe to use
DNA of the unknown sample is compared with a
is of paramount importance for the customer.
vast DNA database; the Royal Botanic Gardens
Naturals offer many benefits to hair care but
DNA database, for example, contains more than
like hair, they vary. Thus, it is important to
50,000 samples (see Royal Resources sidebar on
fully understand the composition of naturals
Page 61 of the June digital edition). Plant DNA
to optimize their benefits. Finally, hair brands
is contained within the membrane-bound cell
using quality naturals from sustainable sources
structures of the nucleus, mitochondria and chloro-
can ensure their practices will contribute to the
plasts. Similar to humans, plant DNA carries in its
support of plants in natural environments to
structure the genetic code for cellular development
maintain the planet for future generations.
and maintenance. This genetic code varies among
species and can be therefore used for identification
References
purposes.
1. Sherrow, V. (2006). Encyclopedia of Hair, A Cultural History.
Greenwood Press, London. 79-84, 333-336.
2. About the Nagoya Protocol. Retrieved from https://www.
cbd.int/abs/about/
Want More? 3. Persistent Market Research. (2018). Global market study on
orange essential oil: Increasing use in aromatherapy owing
Check out page 61 of the June digital magazine
to lucrative demand from hospitality services. Retrieved
for the “Royal Resouce” sidebar exclusive.
from https://www.persistencemarketresearch.com/market-
research/orange-essential-oil-market.asp
4. Misa, D. D., Das, S. S., and Dey, S. (2013). Volatile
profiling from heartwood of East Indian sandalwood tree.
J Pharm Res, 7(4), 299-303.
5. Howes, M. R., Simmonds, M. S. J., and Kite, G. C. (2004).
Evaluation of the quality of sandalwood essential oils by
gas chromatography-mass spectrometry. J Chromatogr A,
1028, 307-312.
6. John, M.D., Paul, T. M., and Jaiswal, P. K. (1991). Detection
of adulteration of polyethylene glycols in oil of sandalwood.
Indian Perfum, 35, 186-187.
7. Do, T. K. T., Hadji-Minaglou, F., Antoniotti, S., and Fernan-
dez, X. (2015). Authenticity of essential oils. Trends Anal
Chem, 66, 146-157.
8. Schulz, H., Quilitzsch, R., and Krüger, H. (2003). Rapid
evaluation and quantitative analysis of thyme, oregano and
chamomile essential oils by ATR-IR and NIR spectroscopy.
J Mol Struct, 661-662, 299-306.
9. Bozzi, A., Perrin, C., Austin, S., and Arce, F. (2007). Vera,
quality and authenticity of commercial aloe vera powders.
Food Chem, 103, 22-30.
10. Roe, A. L., McMillan, D. A, and Mahony, C. (2018). A tiered
approach for the evaluation of the safety of botanicals used
as dietary supplements: an industrial strategy. Clin Pharm
Ther, 104(3), 446-457.
11. Kite, G. C., Howes, M. J. R., Leon, C. J., and Simmonds,
M. S. J. (2003). Liquid chromatography/mass spectrometry
of malonyl-ginsenosides on the authentication of ginseng.
Rapid Commun Mass Spectrom, 17, 238-244.
12. Martin, G. J., Guillon, C., Martin, M. L., Cabanis, M.T., Tep,
Y., and Aerny, J. (1988). Natural factors of isotope fraction-
ation and the characterization of wines. J Agric Food Chem,
36, 316-322.

Formulating | C&T ®
Bio-derived and
The ingredients presented in this directory are
highlighted for their bio-derived and sustainable
characteristics, and serve various functions in
formulations. These listings were chosen based on
Sustainable Ingredients
key search terms in their descriptions—as entered
by suppliers within the past two years into our
free online ingredient database, the Cosmetics &
Toiletries Bench Reference (CBR).
Search terms included: natural, bio-based,
bio-derived, sustainable, eco-friendly, fair trade,
COSMOS, Ecocert, botanical, vegan and food Feel Enhancer, Powder, Whitening Agent- Exfoliant, Feel Enhancer, Thickener,
grade. Also included are ingredients of plant/ Teeth Whitening Agent-Teeth
botanical, mineral and/or fermentation origin. Peach Stone Powder, BioPowder.com/
Kaolin Schilling Ltd.
Visit CosmeticsandToiletries.com/cbr to search Lion Kaolin, CB Minerals LLC
the entire database. Additional Functions: Exfoliant
Additional Functions: Absorption Base,
Exfoliant
Pumice
Pumice, CB Minerals LLC
Mica Additional Functions: Dentrifice-Powder,
Micro Mica C3000, CB Minerals LLC Exfoliant, Powder, Skin Cleanser
This is an interactive PDF. Click on any Additional Functions: Colorant
trade name or formula title to connect
to our free Cosmetics & Toiletries Quartz, Silicon Dioxide Hydrate
Olea Europaea (Olive) Seed Powder High Purity Quartz, CB Minerals LLC
Bench Reference (CBR) for more
Olive Stone Granules, BioPowder.com/ Additional Functions: Buffer
information, or to request a sample.
Schilling Ltd.
Additional Functions: Anti-aging,
Zeolite
Anti-inflammatory, Antioxidant, Binder,
Zeolite, CB Minerals LLC
ABRASIVE Bleaching Agent, Cellulite Treatment,
Additional Functions: Absorption Base,
Coupling Agent, Dentrifice-Powder,
Odor-masking Agent, Polish, Powder
Whitening Agent-Teeth
Alumina
Alumina, CB Minerals LLC
Additional Functions: Absorption Base Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Extract ABSORPTION BASE
Avocado Stone Powder, BioPowder.com/
Schilling Ltd.
Argania Spinosa Fruit Extract Sericite
Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Anti-
Argan Shell Granules, BioPowder.com/ Sericite, CB Minerals LLC
inflammatory, Antioxidant, Anti-wrinkle,
Schilling Ltd. Additional Functions: Oil Absorbent
Colorant, Feel Enhancer, Flavoring Agent,
Additional Functions: Anti-aging,
Moisturizer, Skin Protectant
Antioxidant, Binder, Cellulite Treatment, Zea Mays (Corn) Starch
Colorant, Dentrifice-Powder Farmal CS 3757, Ingredion Inc.
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond)
Shell Powder Additional Functions: Anti-caking, Delivery
Caolinitic Mineral Clay, Clays (White, Yellow, System, Feel Enhancer, Polymer, Powder
Almond Shell Granules, BioPowder.com/
Red, Green, Pink)
Schilling Ltd.
Red Clay, CB Minerals LLC
Additional Functions: Binder, Bleaching
Additional Functions: Colorant ACNE TREATMENT
Agent, Exfoliant, Feel Enhancer, Powder,
Thickener
Clays (White, Yellow, Red, Green, Pink)
Clay, CB Minerals LLC Argania Spinosa Fruit Extract
Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Seed Powder Argan Oil Deodorized (Argania spinosa),
Additional Functions: Colorant, Exfoliant,
Apricot Stone Granules, BioPowder.com/ Kalaroma LLC
Skin Cleanser
Schilling Ltd. Additional Functions: Hair Anti-aging, Hair
Rhassoul Clay, CB Minerals LLC Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Repair, Skin Protectant, Skin Treatment-
Additional Functions: Absorption Base, Antioxidant, Exfoliant, Powder, Whitening Chapped Skin
Exfoliant Agent-Teeth
Decylene Glycol
Juglans Regia (Walnut) Shell Powder Prunus Persica (Peach) Seed Powder SymClariol, Symrise, Inc.
Walnut Shell Granules, Walnut Shell Powder, Peach Stone Granules, BioPowder.com/ Additional Functions: Antimicrobial,
BioPowder.com/Schilling Ltd. Schilling Ltd. Deodorant, Foam Booster/Stabilizer,
Additional Functions: Colorant, Exfoliant, Additional Functions: Binder, Colorant, Moisturizer

Bio-derived and Sustainable Ingredients
Helichrysum Italicum Extract Additional Functions: Antioxidant, Anti- Blue Oléoactif, The Hallstar Company
Immea, Eko-aromatik wrinkle, Stimulant Additional Functions: Anti-inflammatory,
Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Anti- Antioxidant, Barrier Repair, Emollient, Skin
inflammatory, Antimicrobial, Flavoring Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Protectant
Agent, Moisturizer, Skin Healing Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract,
Ubiquinone, Tocopherol, Spilanthes Acmella Helichrysum Italicum Extract, Water (aqua)
Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Helichrysum Italicum Essential Oil,
ANTI-AGING LIFT Oléoactif, The Hallstar Company
Immortelle Therapy
Additional Functions: Anti-wrinkle,
Additional Functions: Antibacterial, Anti-
Emollient, Moisturizer, Skin Smoothing
4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor inflammatory, Antioxidant, Antiseptic,
Neo Heliopan MBC, Symrise, Inc. Anti-wrinkle, Astringent, Fragrance (parfum)
Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole
Additional Functions: Anti-wrinkle, Tetrasulfonate Component, Skin Healing, Skin Treatment-
Sunscreen-UVA, Sunscreen-UVB Neo Heliopan AP, Symrise, Inc. Chapped Skin
Additional Functions: Anti-wrinkle Helichrysum Italicum Hydrosol,
Alpha Lipoic Acid Immortelle Therapy
Alpha Lipoate, Novel Nutrients Pvt. Ltd. Echinacea Purpurea Extract Additional Functions: Antibacterial, Anti-
Additional Functions: Antioxidant SymFinity 1298, Symrise, Inc. inflammatory, Antioxidant, Antiseptic,
Additional Functions: Anti-inflammatory, Anti-wrinkle, Astringent, Fragrance (parfum)
Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract Anti-irritant, Antioxidant, Anti-wrinkle Component, Skin Healing, Skin Treatment-
Avenaplex, Oat Cosmetics Chapped Skin
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Oil Neo Heliopan AV, Symrise, Inc. Hexyldecanol, Bisabolol, Cetylhydroxyproline
Avenalipid, Symrise, Inc. Additional Functions: Anti-wrinkle, Skin Palmitamide, Stearic Acid, Brassica
Additional Functions: Anti-irritant, Protectant, Sunscreen-UVA, Sunscreen-UVB Campestris (Rapeseed) Sterols
Antimicrobial, Antioxidant SymRepair 100, Symrise, Inc.
Ethylhexyl Salicylate Additional Functions: Anti-inflammatory,
Betaine, Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate, PCA, Neo Heliopan OS, Symrise, Inc. Anti-irritant, Barrier Repair
Serine, Alanine, Glycine, Glutamic Acid, Additional Functions: Anti-wrinkle, Skin
Lysine HCl, Threonine, Arginine, Proline, Homosalate
Protectant, Sunscreen-UVA, Sunscreen-UVB
Water (aqua) Neo Heliopan HMS, Symrise, Inc.
Prodew 600, Additional Functions: Anti-wrinkle, Skin
Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil
Ajinomoto North America, Inc. Protectant, Sunscreen-UVA, Sunscreen-UVB
Acai Oil, Praan Naturals
Humectant, Moisturizer, Skin Smoothing Hydrolyzed Soybean Extract
Emollient, Hair Repair, Lubricant,
Moisturizer Pro-coll-one+, Silab
Bisabolol, Mauritia Flexuosa Fruit Oil Additional Functions: Anti-wrinkle
AlphaAging, Citróleo
Fucus Vesiculosus Extract, Butylene Glycol,
Water (aqua) Hydroxymethoxyphenyl
Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed) Seed Oil, Propylmethylmethoxybenzofuran
Extrapone Seaweed, Symrise, Inc.
Camelina Sativa Seed Oil, Opuntia Ficus- Sym3D, Symrise, Inc.
Indica Flower Extract Additional Functions: Anti-irritant,
Additional Functions: Antioxidant, Anti-
Opuntia Oléoactif, The Hallstar Company Emollient, Skin Smoothing, Stimulant
wrinkle
Additional Functions: Antioxidant, Barrier
Repair, Emollient, Moisturizer, Skin Cooling/ Glycerin, Astragalus Membranaceus Root
Extract, Atractylodes Macrocephala Root Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate
Soothing, Skin Healing, Skin Protectant Neo Heliopan E 1000, Symrise, Inc.
Extract, Bupleurum Falcatum Root Extract
Meiritage, Sederma Additional Functions: Anti-wrinkle, Skin
Butylene Glycol, Water (aqua), Glycerin, Protectant, Sunscreen-UVA, Sunscreen-UVB
Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract
DragoBetaGlucan, Symrise, Inc. Glycerin, Water (aqua), Laminaria Saccharina
Extract Kappaphycus Alvarezii Extract, Caesalpinia
Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Spinosa Fruit Extract
Actipone Laminaria Saccharina GW,
Sunscreen-UVB Filmexel, Silab
Symrise, Inc.
Additional Functions: Anti-irritant, Additional Functions: Anti-wrinkle, Film
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane Former, Skin Protectant
Antimicrobial, Antioxidant
Neo Heliopan 357, Symrise, Inc.
Additional Functions: Anti-wrinkle, Lactic Acid, Water (aqua), Propylene Glycol,
Sunscreen-UVA Glycerin, Water (aqua), Zingiber Officinale
(Ginger) Root Extract Avena Sativa (Oat) Straw Extract
Actipone Ginger Juice (Organic), Actipone Oats, Symrise, Inc.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Additional Functions: Anti-irritant,
Symrise, Inc.
SymDecanox HA, Symrise, Inc. Antimicrobial, Antioxidant
Additional Functions: Anti-irritant,
Antimicrobial, Antioxidant, Moisturizer, Skin
Antioxidant, Stimulant Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract
Lightening, Stimulant
SeaStem, Ashland LLC
Carnosine Additional Functions: Barrier Repair, Skin
Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil, Polyglyceryl-3
Dragosine, Symrise, Inc. Diisostearate, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract Healing, Skin Smoothing

Maltodextrin, Aspalathus Linearis Leaf Sea Water, Sea Salts, Sea Salt Extract, Mineral Water (aqua), Glycerin, Camellia Sinensis
Extract Salts Leaf Extract
Neo Actipone Organic Rooibos, Oriel Marine Extract, Oriel Marine Extracts Extrapone Green Tea GW, Symrise, Inc.
Symrise, Inc. Additional Functions: Anti-inflammatory, Additional Functions: Anti-irritant,
Additional Functions: Anti-irritant, Anti-wrinkle, Barrier Repair, Blood Antimicrobial, Antioxidant, Astringent,
Antimicrobial, Antioxidant Circulation Agent-Skin, Endorphin Booster, Emollient, Stimulant
Moisturizer, Skin Healing, Skin Treatment-
Maltodextrin, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract Chapped Skin Water (aqua), Glycerin, Caprylyl/Capryl
Neo Actipone Green Tea, Symrise, Inc. Glucoside, Ptychopetalum Olacoides Bark/
Additional Functions: Antibacterial, Anti- Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Extract Stem Extract, Pfaffia Paniculata Root Extract,
irritant, Antioxidant, Astringent, Emollient, Matribust, Silab Lilium Candidum Flower Extract
Moisturizer, Stimulant Bioskinup Contour 3R,
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Chemyunion Quimica Ltda
Mauritia Flexuosa Fruit Oil Punica Granatum Extract, Punica Granatum
Buriti Oil, Citróleo Flower Extract Water (aqua), Glycerin, Citrus Limon
Additional Functions: Anti-inflammatory, Pomegranate Oléoactif, (Lemon) Juice
Antioxidant The Hallstar Company Extrapone Lemon (Organic) GW,
Additional Functions: Antioxidant Symrise, Inc.
Menthyl Anthranilate Additional Functions: Antimicrobial,
Neo Heliopan MA, Symrise, Inc. Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter Antioxidant, Astringent, Skin Lightening,
Additional Functions: Sunscreen-UVA, Cupuaçu Butter, Citróleo Stimulant
Sunscreen-UVB Additional Functions: Antioxidant, Barrier
Repair, Moisturizer Water (aqua), Glycerin, Galactoarabinan
Myristoyl Hexapeptide-16, Glycerin, Water H2OBioEV, Lonza Home & Personal Care
(aqua) Titanium Dioxide, Aluminum Hydroxide,
SymPeptide 235, Symrise, Inc. Cetearyl Nonanoate, Stearic Acid Water (aqua), Glycerin, Pentylene
SymTio S, Symrise, Inc. Glycol, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil,
Additional Functions: Anti-wrinkle, Trideceth-9, Sine Adipe Lac, Decylene Glycol,
Oleic Acid, Terminalia Arjuna Bark Extract,
Lecithin Sunscreen-UVA, Sunscreen-UVB 1,2-Hexanediol, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil
LOOK Oléoactif, The Hallstar Company Extrapone Rose Milk N, Symrise, Inc.
Additional Functions: Anti-wrinkle, Blood Vaccinium Macrocarpan (Cranberry) Seed Oil, Additional Functions: Anti-irritant,
Circulation Agent-Skin, Skin Clarifier, Skin Vaccinium Macrocarpan (Cranberry) Seed Antimicrobial, Antioxidant, Astringent,
Powder Deodorant, Stimulant
Lightening, Skin Smoothing, Toner
Organic Cranberry Oil, I & W Research Inc.
Additional Functions: Anti-inflammatory, Water (aqua), Glycerin, Punica Granatum
Pentylene Glycol, Rosa Damascena Flower Exfoliant, Hair Conditioner, Moisturizer,
Extract, Bisabolol Extract, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil,
Powder, Skin Healing, Skin Treatment- Trideceth-9, Tocopherol
Flowerconcentrole Rose, Symrise, Inc.
Chapped Skin , SPF Booster, Sunscreen-UVA Actipone Pomegranate GW, Symrise, Inc.
Antimicrobial, Antioxidant, Astringent, Additional Functions: Antioxidant,
Deodorant, Stimulant Water (aqua), Butylene Glycol, Cocos Astringent, Stimulant
Nucifera (Coconut) Fruit Extract
Sensorialine, Silab Water (aqua), Glycerin, Sucrose Stearate,
Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid
Additional Functions: Barrier Repair, Sclerotium Gum, Gluconolactone, Sodium
Neo Heliopan Hydro, Symrise, Inc.
Moisturizer, Skin Lightening Benzoate, Calcium Gluconate
PolyGlucan ES, MMP, Inc.
Sunscreen-UVA, Sunscreen-UVB
Water (aqua), Butylene Glycol, PEG-40
Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Pfaffia Paniculata Water (aqua), Glycerin, Xanthan Gum,
Phenylethyl Resorcinol Root Extract, Ptychopetalum Olacoides Bark/ Hydrolyzed Pearl
SymWhite 377, Symrise, Inc. Stem Extract, Lilium Candidum Flower Extract Extrapone Pearl GW, Symrise, Inc.
Additional Functions: Skin Lightening Bioskinup Contour, Additional Functions: Antioxidant,
Chemyunion Quimica Ltda Moisturizer, Stimulant
Propylene Glycol, Water (aqua), Ginkgo
Biloba Leaf Extract, Glucose, Lactic Acid Water (aqua), Glycerin, Aspalathus Linearis
Extrapone Ginkgo Biloba, Symrise, Inc. Water (aqua), Hydrolyzed Pepper Fruit
Leaf Extract Extract
Additional Functions: Anti-irritant, Extrapone Roobios GW, Symrise, Inc. Retilactyl D, Silab
Antimicrobial, Antioxidant, Stimulant Additional Functions: Antimicrobial,
Antioxidant, Skin Cooling/Soothing, Skin
Sclareolide Water (aqua), Pentylene Glycol, Carnosine
Protectant
SymBright 2036, Symrise, Inc. Dragosine Plus, Symrise, Inc.
Additional Functions: Anti-irritant, Skin Additional Functions: Antioxidant
Water (aqua), Glycerin, Beta-Glucan,
Lightening 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol
Water (aqua), Propanediol, Myrciaria Dubia
SymGlucan, Symrise, Inc.
Fruit Extract
Suprastim, Ashland LLC
Moisturizer
Additional Functions: Antioxidant, Skin
Clarifier, Skin Lightening, Skin Protectant

Water (aqua), Propylene Glycol, Angelica Phenethyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Citrus Reticulata Additional Functions: Antimicrobial,
Polymorpha Sinensis Root Extract (Tangerine) Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantium Emollient
Actipone Angelica Root (Dang Gui), Amara (Bitter Orange) Fruit Extract, Citrus
Symrise, Inc. Sinensis (Orange) Peel Extract, Ascorbic Acid,
Apigenin
Additional Functions: Anti-irritant, Citric Acid, Lactic Acid, Water (aqua)
Biotive Apigenin, Symrise, Inc.
Antimicrobial, Antioxidant, Skin Lightening, Sharon Biomix Pure II,
Stimulant Sharon Laboratories Ltd.
Antioxidant
Additional Functions: Preservative
Water (aqua), Propylene Glycol, PEG-40 Bisabolol
Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Trideceth-9, Aloe Resveratrol
Dragosantol 100, Symrise, Inc.
Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Bisabolol Biotive Resveratrol min. 99%, Symrise, Inc.
Extrapone Aloe Vera B, Symrise, Inc. Additional Functions: Anti-inflammatory,
Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed) Sterols,
Additional Functions: Anti-irritant, Antioxidant Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Emblica
Antioxidant, Emollient, Moisturizer, Officinalis Fruit Extract, Curcumin, Linum
Stimulant Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Oil, Sesamum
Rosemary essential oil, Kalaroma LLC Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil
Water (aqua), Trehalose, Glycerin, Pentylene Additional Functions: Antimicrobial, Amla Curcumin/Omega-3 Butter I.S.,
Glycol, Beta-Glucan, Hordeum Vulgare Seed Astringent International Cosmetics Science Centre A/S
Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol (ICSC)
SymLift, Symrise, Inc. Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Leaf Additional Functions: Antimicrobial,
Additional Functions: Anti-wrinkle, Sage essential oil organic (Salvia Officinalis), Emollient
Moisturizer, Skin Smoothing Kalaroma LLC
Additional Functions: Anti-inflammatory, Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed) Seed
Yeast Extract Antimicrobial Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter,
Ecobiotys, Silab Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil,
Emblica Officinalis Fruit Extract, Linum
Additional Functions: Barrier Repair, Skin Water (aqua), Phospholipids, Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Oil, Curcumin
Lightening Polyunsaturated Fatty Acids, Synthetic Amla Curcumin/Omega-3 Butter Organic
Peptides, Glycoproteins
Prohyal, Silab I.S., International Cosmetics Science Centre
Intelligent NanoDelivery System,
Additional Functions: Anti-wrinkle, A/S (ICSC)
Nanoshell Company
Moisturizer Additional Functions: Antimicrobial,
Additional Functions: Anti-inflammatory,
Emollient
Antioxidant, Anti-wrinkle, Barrier Repair,
Zinc PCA
Delivery System, Moisturizer, Skin Healing,
Ajidew ZN-100N, Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed) Seed
Skin Lightening, Skin Smoothing Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter,
Ajinomoto North America, Inc.
Additional Functions: Antimicrobial, Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil, Linum
Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Oil, Curcumin,
Antiperspirant, Humectant, Moisturizer ANTICARIES AGENT Emblica Officinalis Fruit Extract
Amla Curcumin/Omega-3 Butter Organic,
Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract International Cosmetics Science Centre A/S
SymVital AgeRepair, Symrise, Inc. Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed) Seed Oil,
Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil, (ICSC)
Additional Functions: Anti-irritant, Additional Functions: Antimicrobial,
Emblica Officinalis Fruit Extract, Curcumin
Antioxidant, Anti-wrinkle, Skin Smoothing Emollient
Amla Curcumin Oil Organic I.S,
International Cosmetics Science Centre A/S
ANTIBACTERIAL (ICSC) Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed) Seed Oil,
Additional Functions: Anti-inflammatory, Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil,
Emollient Emblica Officinalis Fruit Extract, Curcumin
Azelaic Acid Amla Curcumin Oil I.S., International
Matrilox CA-001M, Matrica S.P.A. Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC)
Additional Functions: Anti-inflammatory ANTI-INFLAMMATORY Additional Functions: Antimicrobial,
Emollient
Benzyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Citrus Reticulata Amla Curcumin Oil Organic, International
(Tangerine) Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantium Acer Rubrum Extract, Glycerin, Water (aqua)
Celltice, Renmatix Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC)
Amara (Bitter Orange) Fruit Extract, Citrus
Additional Functions: Antioxidant Additional Functions: Antimicrobial,
Sinensis (Orange) Peel Extract, Tocopherol,
Emollient
Citric Acid, Lactic Acid, Water (aqua)
Sharon Biomix Eco, Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil
Sharon Laboratories Ltd. Baobab Oil, DLG Naturals, Inc. Butylene Glycol, Water (aqua), Salvia
Additional Functions: Preservative Additional Functions: Antioxidant, Miltiorrhiza Extract
Emollient, Hair Conditioner, Skin Protectant, Neurofense, Silab
Skin Smoothing, Skin Treatment-Chapped Additional Functions: Anti-irritant, Skin
Eremanthus Erythropappus Branch/Leaf Oil
Skin Cooling/Soothing
Citrue Bisabolol, Citróleo
Additional Functions: Anti-inflammatory,
Skin Cooling/Soothing Allanblackia Stuhlmannii Seed Butter Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Chamomilla
Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract
Allanblackia Butter I.S., International
Camomile Oil EC, Crodarom SAS
Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC)

Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil Perilla Frutescens Seed Extract ANTI-IRRITANT
Kalahari Melon Seed Oil, DLG Naturals, Inc. Perilla Oil, International Cosmetics Science
Additional Functions: Anti-wrinkle, Centre A/S (ICSC)
Emollient, Moisturizer, Skin Healing, Skin Additional Functions: Antimicrobial, Bisabolol, Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root
Protectant Emollient Extract
SymRelief 100, Symrise, Inc.
Copaifera Coriacea/Langsdorffii/Officinalis/ Phospholipids, Hydrogenated Phospholipids,
Reticulata Resin Oil Polyunsaturated Fatty Acids, Water (aqua), Bobgunnia Madagascariensis Wood Extract,
Copaiba Oil, Citróleo Synthetic Peptides, Glycoproteins Propanediol
Additional Functions: Antimicrobial, Intelligent NanoDelivery System, SymFit nat 1750, Symrise, Inc.
Moisturizer Nanoshell Company Additional Functions: Antioxidant, Cellulite
Additional Functions: Antimicrobial, Treatment
Emblica Officinalis Fruit Extract, Antioxidant, Anti-wrinkle, Barrier Repair,
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Delivery System, Moisturizer, Skin Healing, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol,
Curcumin, Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid
Skin Protectant, Skin Smoothing
Oil SymCalmin, Symrise, Inc.
Amla Curcumin Butter Organic I.S., Raspberry Seed Oil/Tocopheryl Succinate
International Cosmetics Science Centre A/S Aminopropanediol Esters, Rubus Idaeus Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Glucose,
(ICSC) (Raspberry) Fruit Extract, Rubus Idaeus Glycerin, Water (aqua)
Additional Functions: Antimicrobial (Raspberry) Seed Oil Extrapone Marigold GW, Symrise, Inc.
Organic Red Raspberry Oil, Additional Functions: Antimicrobial,
Emblica Officinalis Fruit Extract, Curcumin, I & W Research Inc. Antioxidant, Emollient, Stimulant
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Additional Functions: Anti-irritant,
Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil Exfoliant, Skin Clarifier, Skin Healing, SPF Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria)
Amla Curcumin Butter I.S., International Booster, Sunscreen-UVA, Sunscreen-UVB Flower Water, Propylene Glycol, PEG-40
Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC) Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Trideceth-9,
Additional Functions: Antimicrobial, 1,2-Hexanediol, Bisabolol, Caprylyl Glycol
Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil
Emollient Extrapone Camomile CL B, Symrise, Inc.
Marula Oil, DLG Naturals, Inc.
Additional Functions: Antimicrobial,
Amla Curcumin Butter Organic, Additional Functions: Antioxidant, Anti-
Dandruff Treatment, Deodorant, Stimulant
International Cosmetics Science Centre A/S wrinkle, Emollient, Fragrance (Parfum)
(ICSC) Component, Hair Conditioner, Hair Repair,
Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract, Maltodextrin
Additional Functions: Antimicrobial, Moisturizer, Skin Protectant, Skin Smoothing
Neo Actipone Acai, Symrise, Inc.
Emollient
Additional Functions: Antioxidant,
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Extract
Astringent, Skin Smoothing
Emblica Officinalis Fruit Extract, Sesamum JD Jojoba Organic Colorless Oil,
Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Jojoba Desert (A.C.S) Ltd.
Parkii (Shea) Butter Glycerin, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet
JD Jojoba Organic Golden Oil, Jojoba Desert Almond) Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Propylene
Amla Butter I.S., International Cosmetics
(A.C.S) Ltd. Glycol, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil,
Science Centre A/S (ICSC) Trideceth-9
Additional Functions: Antimicrobial, Extrapone Almond Milk N, Symrise, Inc.
Emollient Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil
JD Jojoba Colorless Oil, Jojoba Desert Additional Functions: Antimicrobial,
Amla Butter Organic, International (A.C.S) Ltd. Emollient, Moisturizer
Additional Functions: Antimicrobial, JD Jojoba Golden Oil, Jojoba Desert (A.C.S) Glycerin, Urtica Dioica (Nettle) Extract,
Emollient Ltd. Water (aqua)
Actipone Stinging Nettle Juice (Organic),
Amla Butter Organic I.S., International Trichilia Emetica Seed Butter Symrise, Inc.
Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC) Ximenia Oil, DLG Naturals, Inc. Additional Functions: Antimicrobial,
Additional Functions: Antimicrobial, Additional Functions: Anti-wrinkle, Barrier Antioxidant, Astringent, Dandruff Treatment,
Emollient Repair, Emollient, Hair Conditioner, Skin Stimulant
Healing, Skin Protectant
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Arnica Montana
Flower Extract Glycerin, Water (aqua), Hamamelis
Water (aqua), Glycerin, Avena Sativa (Oat) Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Extract
Organic Arnica Oil Extract, Praan Naturals Kernel Extract
Additional Functions: Moisturizer Extrapone Witch Hazel GW, Symrise, Inc.
Dragocalm, Symrise, Inc. Additional Functions: Antioxidant,
Additional Functions: Anti-irritant, Astringent, Dandruff Treatment, Deodorant,
Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil Antioxidant Stimulant
Lavender Essential Oil, Immortelle Therapy
Water (aqua), Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Glycerin, Water (aqua), Rosmarinus
Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Water Extract, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Fruit Officinalis (Rosemary) Extract
Lavender Hydrosol/Floral Water, Extract, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Actipone Rosemary GW, Symrise, Inc.
Immortelle Therapy Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate
Pro Soleil BCR, Bio Component Research
Antioxidant, Dandruff Treatment,
Pentylene Glycol, 4-t-Butylcyclohexanol Additional Functions: Antioxidant, Skin
Deodorant, Stimulant
SymSitive 1609, Symrise, Inc. Cooling/Soothing, Skin Protectant, SPF
Additional Functions: Anti-irritant Booster

Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Leaf Pentylene Glycol, Lavandula Angustifolia Additional Functions: Antimicrobial,
Extract, Alcohol, Hamamelis Virginiana (Lavender) Extract, Bisabolol Antioxidant, Astringent, Emollient, Skin
(Witch Hazel) Extract, Water (aqua) Flowerconcentrole Lavender, Symrise, Inc. Lightening, Skin Smoothing, Stimulant
Actipone Witch Hazel GW, Symrise, Inc. Additional Functions: Antimicrobial,
Additional Functions: Antimicrobial, Antioxidant, Deodorant Water (aqua), Glycerin, Camellia Sinensis
Antioxidant, Astringent, Dandruff Treatment, Leaf Extract
Deodorant, Stimulant Propylene Glycol, Hamamelis Virginiana Actipone White Tea (Organic) GW,
(Witch Hazel) Extract, Alcohol Symrise, Inc.
Hexyldecanol, Pentylene Glycol, Extrapone Witch Hazel Dist. Colorless, Additional Functions: Antimicrobial,
4-t-Butylcyclohexanol, Bisabolol, Symrise, Inc. Antioxidant, Astringent, Emollient,
Cetylhydroxyproline Palmitamide, Stearic Additional Functions: Antimicrobial, Moisturizer, Stimulant
Acid, Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed) Sterols, Astringent, Deodorant
Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract
SymCare O, Symrise, Inc. Water (aqua), Glycerin, Fraxinus Excelsior
Additional Functions: Moisturizer Propylene Glycol, Water (aqua), Wood Extract
Maltodextrin, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract Actipone Ash Wood GW, Symrise, Inc.
Extrapone Acai, Symrise, Inc. Additional Functions: Antioxidant,
Hydrolyzed Pea Protein Additional Functions: Antioxidant,
Promois WJ-SP, Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd. Astringent, Stimulant
Astringent
Additional Functions: Feel Enhancer, Foam
Booster/Stabilizer, Glosser, Hair Conditioner, Water (aqua), Glycerin, Oryza Sativa (Rice)
Trideceth-9, PEG-5 Isononanoate, Water Extract
Hair Repair, Moisturizer, Powder
(aqua) Actipone Black Rice GW, Symrise, Inc.
SymMollient W/S, Symrise, Inc. Additional Functions: Antioxidant
Hydroxyacetophenone Additional Functions: Emollient, Foam
SymSave H, Symrise, Inc. Booster/Stabilizer, Moisturizer, Refatting
Additional Functions: Antimicrobial, Water (aqua), PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor
Agent Oil, Trideceth-9, Pentylene Glycol, Lavandula
Antioxidant
Angustifolia (Lavender) Extract, Propylene
Water (aqua), Butylene Glycol, Fumaria Glycol
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Trideceth-9, Officinalis Extract Flowerpone Lavender, Symrise, Inc.
Pentylene Glycol, 4-t-Butylcyclohexanol,
Capicalm, Silab Additional Functions: Antimicrobial,
Propylene Glycol, Water (aqua)
Antioxidant, Dandruff Treatment,
SymCare W2, Symrise, Inc.
Water (aqua), Butylene Glycol, Glycyrrhiza Deodorant, Stimulant
Additional Functions: Moisturizer
Uralensis (Licorice) Root Extract
Actipone Licorice, Symrise, Inc.

Water (aqua), Pentylene Glycol, PEG-40 Dimethyl Phenylbutanol Additional Functions: Antioxidant,
Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Trideceth-9, SymDeo MPP, Symrise, Inc. Preservative
Bisabolol, Jasminum Officinale (Jasmine) Additional Functions: Decolorant
Extract, Propylene Glycol
Phenoxyethanol, Tropolone
Flowerpone Jasmine, Symrise, Inc.
Farnesol SymOcide PT, Symrise, Inc.
Farnesol, Symrise, Inc.
Stimulant
Additional Functions: Deodorant Vanilla Planifolia Fruit, Water (aqua),
Glycerin, Alcohol
Water (aqua), Propylene Glycol, Glucose, Glycerin, Citrus Reticulata (Tangerine) Extrapone Vanilla Fair Trade/ Sustain.,
Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantium Amara Symrise, Inc.
Extrapone Hibiscus, Symrise, Inc. (Bitter Orange) Fruit Extract, Citrus Sinensis Additional Functions: Stimulant
Additional Functions: Antimicrobial, (Orange) Peel Extract, Ascorbic Acid, Citric
Antioxidant Acid, Lactic Acid, Water (aqua)
Biosecur Organic Personal Care C160S, Water (aqua), Glycerin, Rosa Canina Fruit
Extract
Water (aqua), Propylene Glycol, Mentha Sharon Laboratories Ltd.
Extrapone Rose Hip (Organic) GW,
Piperita (Peppermint) Leaf Extract Additional Functions: Preservative
Symrise, Inc.
Extrapone Peppermint, Symrise, Inc.
Additional Functions: Antimicrobial, 1,2-Hexanediol Astringent
Astringent, Deodorant, Stimulant Hydrolite 6, Symrise, Inc.
Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Solvent
Water (aqua), Glycerin, Vaccinium
Water (aqua), Propylene Glycol, PEG-40 Macrocarpan (Cranberry) Fruit Extract
Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Trideceth-9, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol
Bisabolol, Iris Germanica Root Extract Actipone Cranberry GW, Symrise, Inc.
SymDiol 68, Symrise, Inc. Additional Functions: Antioxidant
Extrapone Iris B, Symrise, Inc.
Additional Functions: Antioxidant, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Tropolone
Moisturizer Water (aqua), Propylene Glycol, PEG-40
SymDiol 68T, Symrise, Inc. Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Trideceth-9,
Additional Functions: Antioxidant, Cinnamomum Zeylanicum Bark Extract
Moisturizer Extrapone Cinnamon, Symrise, Inc.
ANTIMICROBIAL
Lauryl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Astringent, Deodorant, Stimulant
2-Methyl 5-Cyclohexylpentanol 2-Benzylheptanol, Decylene Glycol
SymDeo B125, Symrise, Inc. SymDeo Plus, Symrise, Inc. Ximenia Americana Seed Oil
Additional Functions: Decolorant, Ximenia Oil, DLG Naturals, Inc.
Caprylyl Glycol Preservative Additional Functions: Anti-wrinkle, Blood
Hydrolite CG, Symrise, Inc. Circulation Agent-Skin, Emollient, Hair
Additional Functions: Moisturizer Maltol, Didecyldimonium Chloride Conditioner, Moisturizer
Sharosense Plus 184,
Caprylyl Glycol, Glycerin, Citrus Reticulata Sharon Laboratories Ltd.
(Tangerine) Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantium Additional Functions: Preservative ANTIOXIDANT
Amara (Bitter Orange) Fruit Extract, Citrus
Sinensis (Orange) Peel Extract, Ascorbic Acid, Pentylene Glycol
Lactic Acid, Water (aqua) Hydrolite 5, Symrise, Inc. Coffea Robusta Seed Extract, Coffea Arabica
Sharon Biomix Free CG, (Coffee) Seed Extract, Glycerin, Water
Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Solvent
Sharon Laboratories Ltd. (aqua)
Additional Functions: Preservative Actipone Black Coffee GW, Symrise, Inc.
Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Caprylyl
Glycol, Didecyldimonium Chloride Additional Functions: Stimulant
Caprylyl Glycol, Methylpropanediol, Sharomix Amplify AM 25,
Didecyldimonium Chloride, Sharon Laboratories Ltd. Glycerin, Water (aqua), Pentylene Glycol,
Polyquaternium-80 Additional Functions: Preservative Propylene Glycol, Nonfat Dry Milk, Cocos
Sharomix Amplify AM 24, Nucifera (Coconut) Fruit Extract, Decylene
Sharon Laboratories Ltd. Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol
Phenoxyethanol, Decylene Glycol, Extrapone Coconut Milk N, Symrise, Inc.
Additional Functions: Preservative 1,2-Hexanediol
Additional Functions: Emollient
SymOcide PS, Symrise, Inc.
Caprylyl Glycol, Water (aqua) Additional Functions: Deodorant, Emulsifier,
Hydrolite 8, Symrise, Inc. Hippophae Rhamnoides (Seabuckthorn) Fruit
Preservative
Extract, Glycerin, Water (aqua)
Actipone Sea Buckthorn GW, Symrise, Inc.
Climbazole Phenoxyethanol, Decylene Glycol,
Additional Functions: Astringent, Skin
Crinipan AD, Symrise, Inc. 1,2-Hexanediol, Climbazole
Lightening, Stimulant
Additional Functions: Dandruff Treatment, Crinipan ADS, Symrise, Inc.
Powder, Preservative Additional Functions: Dandruff Treatment,
Preservative Water (aqua), Glycerin, Rubus Idaeus
(Raspberry) Fruit Extract
o-Cymen-5-ol
Actipone Raspberry (Organic) GW,
Symocide C, Symrise, Inc. Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyacetophenone,
Symrise, Inc.
Additional Functions: Antioxidant, Caprylyl Glycol, Water (aqua)
Preservative SymOcide PH, Symrise, Inc.

Water (aqua), Propylene Glycol, Pachyrhizus Mondana 35 HT, Elementis Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate,
Erosus Root Extract Additional Functions: Feel Enhancer Disteardimonium Hectorite, Polyglyceryl-3
Actipone Bengkoang, Symrise, Inc. Diisostearate
Mondana 50 HT, Elementis Bentone Luxe WO, Elementis
Additional Functions: Dandruff Treatment,
Additional Functions: Feel Enhancer Additional Functions: Emulsifier, Feel
Skin Lightening, Skin Smoothing
Mondana 8 HT, Elementis Enhancer, Rheology Modifier, Stabilizer-
Additional Functions: Feel Enhancer, Oil Emulsion, Stabilizer-Viscosity, Suspending
ANTISTATIC AGENT Absorbent Agent, Thickener
Cocamidopropyl Betaine COLORANT

Amphosol HCA-HP, Stepan Company
BLOOD CIRCULATION AGENT-
Additional Functions: Foam Booster/ SKIN
Stabilizer, Foaming Agent/Foamer, Hair Pearlescent Pigments
Conditioner, Surfactant-Amphoteric Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Oil Pearlescent Effects Pigments,
Linseed oil (low linolenic flax), United Mineral and Chemical Corp.
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Inulin Kalaroma LLC Additional Functions: Pigment
Quatin 350 TQ-D, Cosun Biobased Products
Additional Functions: Detangler, Feel Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Titanium Dioxide,
Enhancer, Hair Conditioner, Moisturizer, CELLULITE TREATMENT Iron Oxides, Silica
Polymer Chione Electric Fuchsia SF90D,
BASF Corporation
Quatin 680 TQ-D, Cosun Biobased Products Water (aqua), Butylene Glycol, Nelumbo Additional Functions: Pigment
Additional Functions: Detangler, Feel Nucifera Extract
Enhancer, Hair Conditioner, Moisturizer, Pro-sveltyl, Silab Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Titanium Dioxide,
Polymer Tin Oxide
Timiron Halo White, EMD Chemicals Inc.-
CO-EMULSIFIER RONA Cosmetic Business Unit
ANTI-WRINKLE Additional Functions: Pigment
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Stearalkonium
Benzophenone-3 Hectorite, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate,
Neo Heliopan BB, Symrise, Inc. Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate COOLING AGENT
Additional Functions: Skin Protectant, Bentone Luxe WN, Elementis
Sunscreen-UVA, Sunscreen-UVB Additional Functions: Emulsifier, Feel
Menthyl Ethylamido Oxalate
Enhancer, Rheology Modifier, Stabilizer-
Frescolat X-cool, Symrise, Inc.
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil Emulsion, Stabilizer-Viscosity, Suspending
Almond oil (sweet), Kalaroma LLC Agent, Thickener
Menthyl Lactate
Frescolat ML, Symrise, Inc.
Schinziophyton Rautanenii Seed Oil Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate
Mongongo Oil, DLG Naturals, Inc. Emulsun, Floratech Frescolat ML Cryst, Symrise, Inc.
Additional Functions: Barrier Repair, Additional Functions: Emulsifier Frescolat ML Nat., Symrise, Inc.
Emollient, Moisturizer, Skin Protectant
Cyclopentasiloxane, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Menthyl Lactate, Menthol
Disteardimonium Hectorite
Frescolat Plus, Symrise, Inc.
BARRIER REPAIR Bentone Luxe WS, Elementis
Additional Functions: Emulsifier, Feel
Enhancer, Rheology Modifier, Stabilizer- Water (aqua), Glycerin, Cocos Nucifera
Saccharide Hydrolysate (Coconut) Fruit Extract
Emulsion, Stabilizer-Viscosity, Thickener
Nerenyl, Silab Extrapone Coconut Water GW, Symrise, Inc.
Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Skin Dimethyl Lauramide/Myristamide
Smoothing Ninol CAA, Stepan Company DANDRUFF TREATMENT
Additional Functions: Emulsifier, Foam
Yeast Extract Booster/Stabilizer, Hair Cleanser/Shampoo,
Mitokinyl, Silab Surfactant-Nonionic Water (aqua), Butylene Glycol,
Additional Functions: Skin Lightening Triethanolamine, Punica Granatum Extract
Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate Adandrine, Silab
Amisoft HS-21P,
BINDER Ajinomoto North America, Inc.
Additional Functions: Emulsifier, Surfactant- DELIVERY SYSTEM
Talc Anionic
Mondana 15 HT, Elementis Coconut Alkanes, Polysilicone-11, Water
Additional Functions: Feel Enhancer, Oil Lanolin Alcohol (aqua), Butylene Glycol, Polysorbate 20,
Absorbent Fancol LA Superfine-P, Elementis Decyl Glucoside
Additional Functions: Emulsifier, Gransil SiW-GVL, Grant Industries Inc.
Moisturizer Additional Functions: Feel Enhancer

DEODORANT Algae Oil Organic, International Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed) Seed Oil,
Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC) Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Oil,
Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil,
Magnesium Chloride Algae Oil Organic I.S., International Emblica Officinalis Fruit Extract, Curcumin
Magnesium Chloride Flakes, Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC) Amla Curcumin/Omega-3 Oil I.S.,
Praan Naturals International Cosmetics Science Centre A/S
Additional Functions: Emollient, Allanblackia Stuhlmannii Seed Butter (ICSC)
Moisturizer Allanblackia Butter, International Additional Functions: Hair Anti-aging, Hair
Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC) Conditioner, Hair Repair
Magnesium Chloride Oil (Brine), 31%,
Praan Naturals Allanblackia Butter Organic, International Amla Oil, International Cosmetics Science
Additional Functions: Emollient Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC) Centre A/S (ICSC)
Allanblackia Butter Organic I.S., Amla Oil I.S., International Cosmetics
International Cosmetics Science Centre Science Centre A/S (ICSC)
DETANGLER A/S (ICSC)
Amla Oil Organic, International Cosmetics
Science Centre A/S (ICSC)
Behentrimonium Chloride Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Brassica
Maquat BTMC-85, Pilot Chemical Co. Campestris (Rapeseed) Seed Oil
Aloe Oil I.S., International Cosmetics Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed) Seed Oil,
Additional Functions: Emulsifier, Hair Melia Azadirachta Seed Oil
Cleanser/Shampoo, Hair Conditioner Science Centre A/S (ICSC)
Neem Oil Refined, International Cosmetics
Aloe Oil Organic, International Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC)
Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil Science Centre A/S (ICSC)
Abyssinian Oil, Praan Naturals Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter
Aloe Oil Organic I.S., International
Additional Functions: Emollient, Shea Butter (Cosmosil SH) Organic,
Lubricant, Moisturizer International Cosmetics Science Centre A/S
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Cocos (ICSC)
PEG-2 Dimeadowfoamamidoethylmonium
Nucifera (Coconut) Oil Shea Butter Special, International Cosmetics
Methosulfate
Aloe Butter Organic, International Science Centre A/S (ICSC)
Meadowquat HG-70, Elementis
Additional Functions: Emollient, Feel Shea Butter Unrefined Organic, International
Enhancer, Moisturizer Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC)
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Argan Oil Organic, International
Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter Oil,
EMOLLIENT Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter Extract
Shea Oil (Cosmosil 660) Organic,
Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter
Acacia Senegal Extract International Cosmetics Science Centre A/S
Murumuru Butter, Citróleo
Acacia Senegal Seed Oil I.S., International (ICSC)
Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Murumuru Seed Oil, International C13-15 Alkane
Skin Clarifier, Skin Cooling/Soothing, Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC) Neossance Hemisqualane, Aprinnova
Skin Lightening, Skin Protectant, Skin
Smoothing Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Powder Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil
Eco Scrub Murumuru, Citróleo Camellia Seed Oil, International Cosmetics
Acacia Senegal Seed Oil Organic I.S., Additional Functions: Exfoliant Science Centre A/S (ICSC)
International Cosmetics Science Centre
A/S (ICSC)
Balanites Aegyptiaca (Desert Date) Fruit Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil
Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Extract Hemp Seed Oil Nordic, International
Skin Clarifier, Skin Cooling/Soothing, Desert Date Oil, International Cosmetics Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC)
Skin Lightening, Skin Protectant, Skin Science Centre A/S (ICSC)
Smoothing Hemp Seed Oil Nordic I.S., International
Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed) Seed Oil Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC)
Actinidia Chinensis (Kiwi) Seed Oil Agri-Pure AP 75 R, Cargill Beauty Hemp Seed Oil Nordic Organic,
Kiwi Seed Oil, International Cosmetics International Cosmetics Science Centre A/S
Science Centre A/S (ICSC) Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed) Seed Oil, (ICSC)
Curcumin, Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed)
Algae Extract Seed Oil, Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Hemp Seed Oil Nordic Organic I.S.,
Algae Oil, International Cosmetics Oil, Emblica Officinalis Fruit Extract International Cosmetics Science Centre A/S
Science Centre A/S (ICSC) Amla Oil Organic I.S., International (ICSC)
Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC) Hemp Seed Oil Organic, International
Algae Oil I.S., International Cosmetics
Science Centre A/S (ICSC) Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC)
Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed) Seed Oil,
Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Oil Hemp Seed Oil Unrefined Organic,
Danomega-3 Organic I.S., International International Cosmetics Science Centre A/S
Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC) (ICSC)

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Disteareth-5 Lauroyl Glutamate Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil,
Medium Chain Triglyceride (MCT), Amiter LGS-5(H), Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
Acme-Hardesty Co. Ajinomoto North America, Inc. Biochemica Olive Butter,
Additional Functions: Feel Enhancer The Hallstar Company
Ethylhexyl Isononanoate Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Skin
Carapa Guaianensis Seed Oil Dragoxat 89, Symrise, Inc. Treatment-Chapped Skin
Andiroba Oil, Praan Naturals Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Solvent
Additional Functions: Moisturizer Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil
Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil Babaçu Oil, Citróleo
Andiroba Oil, refined, Symrise, Inc.
Acai Berry Oil, Praan Naturals Additional Functions: Emulsifier, Hair
Additional Functions: Skin Smoothing
Additional Functions: Moisturizer Conditioner, Moisturizer
Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate Acai Seed Oil I.S., International Cosmetics
Panthenol
PCL-Liquid 100, Symrise, Inc. Science Centre A/S (ICSC)
DL-Panthenol, Tianjin YR Chemspec
Additional Functions: Film Former, Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Skin
Technology Co., Ltd.
Moisturizer, Refatting Agent Clarifier, Skin Cooling/Soothing, Skin
Additional Functions: Humectant,
Lightening, Skin Protectant, Skin Smoothing
Moisturizer, Thickener
Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Isopropyl Myristate Acai Seed Oil Organic, International
PCL Liquid, Symrise, Inc. Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC) Perilla Frutescens Seed Extract
Additional Functions: Film Former, Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Skin Perilla Oil I.S., International Cosmetics
Moisturizer, Refatting Agent Clarifier, Skin Cooling/Soothing, Skin Science Centre A/S (ICSC)
Lightening, Skin Protectant, Skin Smoothing
Cetearyl Nonanoate Perilla Oil Organic, International Cosmetics
SymMollient S, Symrise, Inc. Acai Seed Oil Organic I.S., International Science Centre A/S (ICSC)
Additional Functions: Emulsifier, Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC)
Perilla Oil Organic I.S., International
Moisturizer, Refatting Agent Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Skin
Clarifier, Skin Cooling/Soothing, Skin
Citrus Sinensis (Orange) Fruit Extract, Lightening, Skin Protectant, Skin Smoothing
Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter Avocado Oil Organic, International
Orange Seed Butter, International Cosmetics Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Science Centre A/S (ICSC) Castor Wax MP 70, Acme-Hardesty Co.
Additional Functions: Thickener
Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil
Cocamidopropyl Betaine Apricot Kernel Oil, Praan Naturals
Green CAPB-B, Citróleo Hydrolyzed Soy Protein
Additional Functions: Surfactant- Promois WS-SP, Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd.
Amphoteric Additional Functions: Feel Enhancer, Hair
Prunus Domestica Seed Oil, Butyrospermum
Conditioner, Hair Repair, Moisturizer Parkii (Shea) Butter
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate Plum Kernel Butter, International Cosmetics
EnSense Silk CCC, Acme-Hardesty Co. Jojoba Esters Science Centre A/S (ICSC)
Additional Functions: Moisturizer Jojoba Esters-15,
Vantage Specialty Ingredients Prunus Persica (Peach) Kernel Oil,
Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil Additional Functions: Feel Enhancer Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter
Fancor Abyssinian Oil, Elementis Peach Kernel Butter, International
Additional Functions: Feel Enhancer, Lanolin Wax Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC)
Glosser, Wetting Agent Fancor Lanwax, Elementis
Additional Functions: Emulsifier, Feel Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil
Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Seed Oil, Enhancer, Plasticizer Black Castor Oil, Praan Naturals
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter Additional Functions: Hair Conditioner,
Carrot Butter, International Cosmetics Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil Moisturizer
Science Centre A/S (ICSC) Fancor Meadowfoam Seed Oil, Elementis
Additional Functions: Feel Enhancer, Rosa Canina (Rosehip) Seed Oil, Rosa Canina
Diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalate Glosser, Moisturizer, Wetting Agent (Rosehip) Fruit Extract
Corapan TQ, Symrise, Inc. Meadowfoam XPR, Natural Plant Products Rose Hip Oil Organic, International
Additional Functions: SPF Booster Additional Functions: Moisturizer Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC)
Rose Hip Oil Unrefined, International
Dimethicone PEG-8 Meadowfoamate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC)
Fancorsil LIM-1, Elementis Mango Butter (Cosmosil 700) Organic,
Additional Functions: Feel Enhancer, Film International Cosmetics Science Centre A/S Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil
Former, Hair Repair, Moisturizer (ICSC) Biochemica Jojoba Oil Deo, The Hallstar
Company
Dimethiconol Meadowfoamate Nigella Sativa Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Additional Functions: Lubricant, Moisturizer,
Fancorsil LIM-2, Elementis Parkii (Shea) Butter Skin Smoothing
Additional Functions: Feel Enhancer, Film Black Cumin Butter, International
Former, Hair Repair, Moisturizer Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC) Squalane
Neossance Squalane, Aprinnova

Squalane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Triethyl Citrate Lauryl Dimethicone/Polyglycerin-3
Behenyl Behenate, Tribehenin EnSense Silk TEC, Acme-Hardesty Co. Crosspolymer, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba)
Distinctive Squalane Butter 45, Additional Functions: Moisturizer Seed Oil
Vantage Specialty Ingredients X-22-6695B, Shin-Etsu Silicones of
Additional Functions: Moisturizer Triisononanoin America, Inc.
Isodragol, Symrise, Inc. Additional Functions: Rheology Modifier,
Starch Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride Additional Functions: Moisturizer Thickener
Pencare DP 1015, Ingredion Inc.
Additional Functions: Feel Enhancer, Film Virola Sebifera Nut Oil Lecithin
Former, Fixative, Hair Conditioner, Hair-set Ucuuba Seed Butter, International Emultop Velvet IP, Cargill Beauty
Polymer/Resin, Polymer, Skin Smoothing Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC)
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Stearyl Heptanoate, Stearyl Caprylate Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, KMP-590, Shin-Etsu Silicones
PCL Solid, Symrise, Inc. Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter of America, Inc.
Additional Functions: Film Former, Grape Seed Butter, International Cosmetics Additional Functions: Feel Enhancer
Moisturizer, Refatting Agent Science Centre A/S (ICSC)
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Hydrogenated
Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter Palm Glycerides
Cocoa Butter (Cocoadan) Organic, EMULSIFIER Emulsiphos, Symrise, Inc.
International Cosmetics Science Centre A/S Additional Functions: Moisturizer
(ICSC) Cyclopentasiloxane, PEG/PPG-18/18
Dimethicone Water (aqua), Pentylene Glycol, Sodium
Cocoa Butter (Cocoadan) Unrefined Organic, Lauryl Sulfoacetate, Sodium Chloride,
International Cosmetics Science Centre A/S Andisil SP 518C, AB Specialty Silicones Sodium Oleate, Sodium Oleoyl Sarcosinate
(ICSC) Additional Functions: Film Former, SymSol PF-3, Symrise, Inc.
Waterproofing Agent, Wetting Agent Additional Functions: Solubilizer
Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter
Cupuaçu Butter, refined, Symrise, Inc. Glyceryl Oleate Citrate, Caprylic/Capric
Additional Functions: Hair Conditioner, Triglyceride EXFOLIANT
Moisturizer Dracorin GOC, Symrise, Inc.
Additional Functions: Stabilizer-Emulsion
Glycol Distearate
Trichilia Emetica Seed Butter, Butyrospermum
Parkii (Shea) Butter Glyceryl Stearate Citrate Cegesoft Peel, BASF SE
Mafura Butter, International Cosmetics Dracorin CE, Symrise, Inc.
Science Centre A/S (ICSC) Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Ecomyx 40100, Acme-Hardesty Co.
Trideceth-9, Water (aqua), PEG-5
Ethylhexanoate Olea Europaea (Olive) Seed Powder
Neo-PCL Water Soluble N, Symrise, Inc. Olive Stone Powder, BioPowder.com/
Additional Functions: Foam Booster/ Schilling Ltd.
Stabilizer, Moisturizer, Refatting Agent

Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Seed Powder Dimethicone Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil,
Apricot Stone Powder, BioPowder.com/ KSG-19, Shin-Etsu Silicones Stearalkonium Hectorite, Propylene
Schilling Ltd. of America, Inc. Carbonate
Additional Functions: Rheology Modifier, Bentone Gel OLV V, Elementis
Thickener Additional Functions: Rheology Modifier,
FEEL ENHANCER Stabilizer-Viscosity, Suspending Agent,
Dimethicone, Dimethicone/Vinyl Thickener
Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine
KSG-016F, Shin-Etsu Silicones of America, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate,
Green Behenic (BAPDMA), Citróleo Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene
Inc.
Additional Functions: Hair Conditioner Carbonate
Additional Functions: Rheology Modifier,
Thickener Bentone Gel PTIS V, Elementis
Bisabolol, Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil, Virola Additional Functions: Rheology Modifier,
Sebifera Nut Oil, Theobroma Grandiflorum Stabilizer-Viscosity, Suspending Agent,
Seed Butter, Carapa Guaianensis Seed Oil, Hectorite
Thickener
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil Bentone Hydroclay 2000, Elementis
AlphaVelvety, Citróleo Additional Functions: Rheology Modifier,
Stabilizer-Viscosity, Thickener Polymethylsilsesquioxane
KMP-591, Shin-Etsu Silicones
Bentone Hydroclay 2001, Elementis of America, Inc.
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter Additional Functions: Rheology Modifier, Additional Functions: Powder
Fancol Shea Butter, Elementis Stabilizer-Emulsion, Stabilizer-Viscosity
Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Refatting
Sodium Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate
Agent, Skin Protectant Hectorite, Hydroxyethylcellulose Farmal MS 6822, Ingredion Inc.
Bentone Hydroclay 900, Elementis Additional Functions: Polymer, Rheology
C13-15 Alkane, Stearoxymethicone/ Additional Functions: Rheology Modifier,
Dimethicone Copolymer Modifier, Thickener
Stabilizer-Emulsion, Stabilizer-Viscosity,
Gransil Sug, Grant Industries Inc.
Thickener Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Stearalkonium Fancol CB, Elementis
Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Skin
Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Protectant, Skin Smoothing
Bentone Gel GTCC V, Elementis Carbonate
Additional Functions: Rheology Modifier, Bentone Gel PIO V, Elementis
Stabilizer-Viscosity, Suspending Agent, Trimethylcyclohexyl Butylcarbamate
Thickener SymFit 1617, Symrise, Inc.
Stabilizer-Viscosity, Suspending Agent,
Thickener
C11-12 Isoparaffin, Disteardimonium Triolein
Hectorite, SD Alcohol 40 EnSense Luxe TO, Acme-Hardesty Co.
Isopropyl Isostearate
Bentone Gel OMS V, Elementis Additional Functions: Hair Conditioner,
EnSense Soft IPIS, Acme-Hardesty Co.
Additional Functions: Rheology Modifier, Moisturizer
Thickener Trisiloxane, Disteardimonium Hectorite,
Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil, Triethyl Citrate
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter Extract
Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil, Stearalkonium Bentone Gel VS1 V, Elementis
Fancol VB, Elementis
Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate Additional Functions: Rheology Modifier,
Additional Functions: Glosser, Humectant,
Bentone Gel ABO V, Elementis Stabilizer-Viscosity, Suspending Agent,
Moisturizer, Ointment Base, Wetting Agent
Additional Functions: Rheology Modifier, Thickener
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
Thickener Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane
Bentone Hydroclay 1100, Elementis Crosspolymer
Additional Functions: Rheology Modifier, KSP-101, Shin-Etsu Silicones
Cyclopentasiloxane, Disteardimonium
Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate Stabilizer-Emulsion, Stabilizer-Viscosity, of America, Inc.
Bentone Gel 1002 V, Elementis Thickener Additional Functions: Powder, Rheology
Additional Functions: Rheology Modifier, Modifier
Stabilizer-Viscosity, Suspending Agent, Meadowfoam Estolide
Meadowestolide, Elementis KSP-102, Shin-Etsu Silicones
Thickener of America, Inc.
Additional Functions: Powder, Rheology
Cyclopentasiloxane, Disteardimonium Modifier
Hectorite, Triethyl Citrate Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate,
EA-3105, Elementis Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene KSP-105, Shin-Etsu Silicones
Carbonate of America, Inc.
Bentone Gel NGD V, Elementis Additional Functions: Powder, Rheology
Additional Functions: Rheology Modifier, Modifier
Thickener
Thickener

FILM FORMER C12-13 Pareth Sulfate GLOSSER
STEOL CS-230 PC HP, Stepan Company
Additional Functions: Skin Cleanser,
Hydrolyzed Sesame Protein PG-Propyl Surfactant-Anionic Glyceryl Diisostearate
Methylsilanediol, Water (aqua) Vistanol GDHR, Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd.
Promois GOMA-SIG, Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd. Additional Functions: Lanolin Substitute
Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Water (aqua)
Additional Functions: Hair Conditioner,
Amisoft ECS-22W,
Hair Repair, Moisturizer
Additional Functions: Hair Cleanser/
HAIR CLEANSER/SHAMPOO
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein PG-Propyl Shampoo, Moisturizer, Skin Cleanser,
Methylsilanediol, Water (aqua) Surfactant-Anionic Cetearamidoethyldiethonium Succinoyl
Promois WG-SIG, Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd. Hydrolyzed Pea Protein, Glycerin, Water
Additional Functions: Hair Cleanser/ (aqua)
Potassium Cocoyl Glutamate
Shampoo, Hair Conditioner, Hair Repair, Vegetamide 18MEA-NJS,
Amisoft CK-11F,
Moisturizer Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd.
Additional Functions: Hair Cleanser/ Additional Functions: Hair Conditioner, Hair
Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Shampoo, Surfactant-Anionic Repair, Moisturizer, Silicone Replacement
Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter
SymHair Rescue, Symrise, Inc.
Potassium Cocoyl Glycinate, Potassium Potassium Cocoyl Glutamate, Water (aqua)
Additional Functions: Hair Conditioner,
Cocoate, Water (aqua) Amisoft CK-22,
Hair Repair, Moisturizer, Refatting Agent
Amilite GCK-12H, Ajinomoto North America, Inc.
Ajinomoto North America, Inc. Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Skin
Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Bran Extract, Cleanser, Surfactant-Anionic
Ethylhexyl Isononanoate, Linoleic Acid, Additional Functions: Surfactant-Anionic
Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil, Cetearyl
Nonanoate Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate
SymHair Shape, Symrise, Inc. Amisoft CS-11 Amisoft CS-11F, Amisoft LS-11 Amisoft LS-11F,
Additional Functions: Hair Conditioner, Hair Ajinomoto North America, Inc. Ajinomoto North America, Inc.
Repair, Refatting Agent, Silicone Replacement Additional Functions: Hair Cleanser/ Additional Functions: Skin Cleanser,
Shampoo, Skin Cleanser, Surfactant-Anionic Surfactant-Anionic
Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Protein, Glycerin,
Water (aqua) Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate TEA-Lauroyl Glutamate, Water (aqua)
SymHair Restore, Symrise, Inc. Amilite GCS-11, Amisoft LT-12,
Additional Functions: Foam Booster/ Ajinomoto North America, Inc. Ajinomoto North America, Inc.
Stabilizer, Hair Conditioner, Hair Repair, Additional Functions: Surfactant-Anionic Additional Functions: Skin Cleanser,
Moisturizer Surfactant-Anionic
Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate, Water (aqua)
Amilite GCS-12K, Water (aqua), Glycerin, Xanthan Gum,
FOAM BOOSTER/STABILIZER Ajinomoto North America, Inc. Diamond Powder
Additional Functions: Surfactant-Anionic Extrapone Diamond GW, Symrise, Inc.
Additional Functions: Skin Clarifier
Cocamide MEA
Calamide MC, Pilot Chemical Co. Sodium Laureth Sulfate
Additional Functions: Thickener STEOL CS-130 HP, Stepan Company
Additional Functions: Hair Cleanser/
HAIR CONDITIONER
Calamide MC, Pilot Chemical Co.
Shampoo, Surfactant-Anionic
Additional Functions: Thickener
Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter
Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Lauryl Murumuru Butter, refined, Symrise, Inc.
Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, Sulfate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Cocamide
Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Cocamide MIPA MIPA
Calblend PC, Pilot Chemical Co. Cetearyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium
Calblend PE, Pilot Chemical Co. Methosulfate
Additional Functions: Foaming Agent/
Incroquat Behenyl TMS, Croda
Foamer, Thickener Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Sodium Cocoyl
Glutamate Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed
Sodium Laurylglucosides Amisoft GS-11P,
Hydroxypropylsulfonate Soy Protein, Water (aqua)
Ajinomoto North America, Inc. Promois WS-HCAQ, Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd.
SugaNate 160NC, Colonial Chemical Inc. Additional Functions: Hair Cleanser/ Additional Functions: Hair Repair,
Shampoo, Skin Cleanser, Surfactant-Anionic Moisturizer
FOAMING AGENT/FOAMER
Emblica Officinalis Fruit Extract
GELLANT Amla Oil, Praan Naturals
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
AMPHOSOL HCG-HP, Stepan Company Sodium Lauroyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Water (aqua)
Additional Functions: Stabilizer-Viscosity, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Silk Promois W-32U, Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd.
Surfactant-Amphoteric Silk Protein, CB Minerals LLC Additional Functions: Hair Repair,
Additional Functions: Powder Humectant, Moisturizer

Hydrolyzed Rice Protein PCA Extrapone Volcanic Water GW, Symrise, Inc.
Promois WR-SP, Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd. Ajidew A-100N,
Additional Functions: Hair Repair, Ajinomoto North America, Inc. Glycerin, Xanthan Gum, Buddleja Davidii
Moisturizer, Powder Additional Functions: Moisturizer Callus Extract
Amberstem, Sederma
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein Sodium PCA
Promois WG-SP, Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd. Ajidew N-50, 1,2-Hexanediol
Additional Functions: Hair Repair, Ajinomoto North America, Inc. Hydrolite 6 O, Symrise, Inc.
Moisturizer, Powder Additional Functions: Moisturizer
Ajidew NL-50N, Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein, Water (aqua)
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Keratin, Ajinomoto North America, Inc. Hydromoist L, Symrise, Inc.
Water (aqua) Additional Functions: Moisturizer
Promois WK-Q, Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd. Meadowfoamamidopropyl Betaine
Additional Functions: Hair Repair, Hair Betafan M, Elementis
Waving, Moisturizer MOISTURIZER Additional Functions: Surfactant-Cationic
Inulin Meadowfoam Delta-Lactone

CBP lnulin, Cosun Biobased Products Acacia Senegal Extract
Meadowlactone, Elementis
Additional Functions: Moisturizer Acacia Senegal Seed Oil, International
Additional Functions: Skin Protectant
Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil Additional Functions: Skin Clarifier, Skin
Pentadesma Butyracea Seed Butter
Jamaican Black Castor Oil, Cooling/Soothing, Skin Protectant, Skin
Kpangnan (Pentadesma) Butter,
Acme-Hardesty Co. Smoothing
International Cosmetics Science Centre A/S
Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Skin Acacia Senegal Seed Oil Organic, (ICSC)
Cleanser International Cosmetics Science Centre A/S
(ICSC) Pichia Anomala Extract
Sericin Additional Functions: Skin Clarifier, Skin Pro-lipiskin, Silab
Promois SERICIN-N, Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd. Protectant, Skin Smoothing
Additional Functions: Hair Repair, Rosa Canina (Rosehip) Seed Oil, Rosa Canina
Moisturizer Aluminum Lactate (Rosehip) Fruit Extract
Lactate, Dr. Paul Lohmann GmbH KG Rose Hip Oil Unrefined Organic,
Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter International Cosmetics Science Centre A/S
Cacao Butter, refined, Symrise, Inc. Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil (ICSC)
Organic Virgin Argan Oil, Praan Naturals
Zea Mays (Corn) Starch Salinicoccus Lysate Filtrate, Pentylene Glycol
Nativacare 5600, Ingredion Inc. Avena Sativa (Oat) Peptide, Water (aqua) Hydronesis, Sederma
Hydromoist O, Symrise, Inc.
Soluble Keratin
HAIR REPAIR Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil Solublekeratin SKSP, Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd.
Acai Seed Oil, International Cosmetics Additional Functions: Powder, Skin
Science Centre A/S (ICSC) Smoothing, Skin Treatment-Chapped Skin
Hydrolyzed Silk, Water (aqua)
Promois SILK-1000F, Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd. Additional Functions: Skin Cooling/
Additional Functions: Humectant, Soothing, Skin Lightening, Skin Protectant, Squalane
Moisturizer Skin Smoothing Entrada-SQ, Advonex International Corp.
Hydrolyzed Sweet Almond Seedcake Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil, Butyrospermum Valine
Amanduline HC BIO, Silab Parkii (Shea) Butter, Elaeis Guineensis Valine, Ajinomoto North America, Inc.
(Palm) Oil
Acai Butter, International Cosmetics Science Virola Sebifera Nut Oil
Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil
Centre A/S (ICSC) Uccúba Butter, Citróleo
Passion Fruit Oil, refined, Symrise, Inc.
Additional Functions: Skin Clarifier, Skin
Cooling/Soothing, Skin Lightening, Skin Water (aqua), Pentylene Glycol, Glycerin,
Water (aqua), Glycerin, Prunus Amygdalus Protectant, Skin Smoothing
Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Extract Fructose, Urea, Citric Acid, Sodium
Acai Butter Organic I.S., International Hydroxide, Maltose, Sodium PCA, Sodium
Amanduline SG, Silab Chloride, Sodium Lactate, Trehalose,
Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC) Allantoin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glucose
Additional Functions: Skin Cooling/ Hydroviton Plus, Symrise, Inc.
HUMECTANT Soothing, Skin Lightening, Skin Protectant,
Skin Smoothing
Water (aqua), Pentylene Glycol, Glycerin,
Glycerin Sodium Lactate, Lactic Acid, Serine, Urea,
Glutamine Sorbitol, Allantoin
Glycerin 99.7%, Acme-Hardesty Co.
Glutamine, Ajinomoto North America, Inc. Hydroviton 24, Symrise, Inc.
Glycerin, Water (aqua)

Extrapone Glacier Water GW, Symrise, Inc.

Water (aqua), Propanediol, Polyglutamic SKIN CLEANSER SUNLESS TANNING AGENT
Acid, Phenoxyethanol
Biowave BCR, Bio Component Research
Water (aqua), Glycerin, Sodium Chloride Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isochrysis
Extrapon Himalaya Salt GW, Symrise, Inc. Galbana Extract
PIGMENT SymBronze1659, Symrise, Inc.
SKIN COOLING/SOOTHING
Pearlescent Pigments SURFACTANT-ANIONIC
Pearl and Effects Pigments,
Diafana Representaciones Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil
Lavender Essential Oil (Bulgarian), New Sodium Coco-sulfate
Directions Aromatics Inc. SCS 95, Acme-Hardesty Co.
PRESERVATIVE
SKIN LIGHTENING THICKENER
Benzyl Alcohol, Benzoic Acid, Dehydroacetic
Acid, Tocopherol
euxyl K 903, schulke Tetrahydropiperine Hydroxypropyltrimonium Inulin
Tetrahydropiperine, BetaFib MCF, Cosun Biobased Products
DMDM Hydantoin Novel Nutrients Pvt. Ltd.
DMDM hydantoin, Acme-Hardesty Co. Tapioca Starch
Nativacare 9330, Ingredion Inc.
Glyceryl Caprylate, Glyceryl Undecylenate SKIN SMOOTHING
Lexgard Natural, INOLEX
Water (aqua), Propylene Glycol, Phalaenopsis
Thymol, Linalool, Benzyl Alcohol Amabilis Extract
SharoSense 251, Sharon Laboratories Ltd. Extrapone Orchid, Symrise, Inc.
Thymol, Linalool, Phenethyl Alcohol

SharoSense 252, Sharon Laboratories Ltd. SOLUBILIZER
Thymol, Linalool, Phenoxyethanol
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Trideceth-9,
SharoSense 250, Sharon Laboratories Ltd.
Propylene Glycol
Solubilizer with Propylene Glycol, Symrise,
Inc.
RHEOLOGY MODIFIER
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Trideceth-9,
Propylene Carbonate, Hydrogenated Water (aqua)
Polyisobutene, Disteardimonium Hectorite Solubilizer with No Propylene Glycol,
Bentone Gel LIP V, Elementis Symrise, Inc.
SKIN CLARIFIER STABILIZER-EMULSION

Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil, Butyrospermum Cetearyl Alcohol, Polysorbate 60, PEG-40
Parkii (Shea) Butter, Elaeis Guineensis Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Steareth-20,
(Palm) Oil Polysorbate 65, Meadowfoamamidopropyl
Acai Butter I.S., International Cosmetics Betaine, Dimethicone PEG-8 Meadowfoamate
Science Centre A/S (ICSC) Fancor Uni-Embase, Elementis
Additional Functions: Skin Cooling/
Soothing, Skin Lightening, Skin Protectant,
Skin Smoothing STIMULANT
Acai Butter Organic, International
Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC) Vanillyl Butyl Ether, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl
Additional Functions: Skin Cooling/ Glycol
Soothing, Skin Lightening, Skin Protectant, Thermolat, Symrise, Inc.
Skin Smoothing
Water (aqua), Glycerin, Myristoyl
Pentapeptide-17
SymPeptide XLash, Symrise, Inc.

Citrue Bisabolol
Efficacy of natural ((-) isomer) alpha bisabolol and its sustainable
supply chain versus synthetics chemicals
The aim of this study was to compare the effectiveness of both active versions: nature ((-) isomer) and synthetic (racemic
mixture (±)) α-bisabolol in the treatment of skin and scalp. Natural version has advantages like being farnesol free, to have the
production chain completely transparent and sustainable, in addition of the action potential guaranteed by the presence of
the biologically active, that is, the negative isomer (-) in 100% of the composition. Synthetic products, although it is said as
similar to natural in the market, have a number of inherent manufacturing problems, such as production being dependent on
environmentally and humanly harmful chemicals, difficulty in purification (i.e. product without trace of these compounds),
and low efficacy. Furthermore, it is known that micro-organism-dependent technologies are naturally low in yield, requiring
high consumption of chemical and biological reagents, which is in disagreement with modern industrial production
techniques, in terms of resource savings and natural goods. On the other hand, the active α-bisabolol: natural
((-) - α-bisabolol) from Candeia tree has been used by the market for decades, with no correlated effects on its use, dissimilar
to the synthetic or similar products, with less time in the market, with unknown long-term adverse effects.
Introduction
The active α-bisabolol has a great importance to the cosmetics and pharmaceutics industries. The natural compound is
extracted mostly by the Candeia (Eremanthus erythropappus) a Brazilian native tree, whose occurrence is quite broad, being
manly concentrate in the region of Serra da Mantiqueira and Serra do Espinhaço, in the Minas Gerais state (Brazil). It can be
used in several products as an anti-irritant, that is, can help in the prevention of irritation caused by other ingredients present
in the formulation. Such effect is due to its anti- inflammatory properties: inhibits the edematous process and it also capable
of reducing the UV induced erythema.
Citroleo is a 100% Brazilian company. Present in the market for more than 33 years, its brand has been established
and is internationally recognized for its quality standards and commitment to sustainability. The (-) α-bisabolol produced by
Citroleo is a natural product, obtained by fractional distillation of the essential oil of Candeia. The Candeia oil is obtained
through the implementation of the plantation in Citroleo’s private forest and in the native forest with stewardship plan in
partnerships with rural producers. Respecting the specific legislation the stewardship plan and plantation for the Candeia
tree, which contemplate not only the planned removal of trees, but also the preservation of the trees for sowing and natural
regeneration. The company has several environmental projects of sustainable planting to preserve the natural biodiversity of
the fauna and the flora, besides its social responsible with the producers and their families.
There are different ingredients in the market commonly called “Bisabolol”: the natural product free-from farnesol, as
the Citroleo Company, which contains 100% of levorotatory isomer ((-) isomer); a product of biotechnologies technics, whose
supply chain are still completely unknown; and the synthetic one, which contains the racemic mixture (± isomers), both last
two containing farnesol. It has long been known that individual stereoisomer can have different pharmacological,
pharmacokinetic, toxicological and metabolic actions in the chiral biological systems.
www.citroleogroup.com
Once a new product is prepared in the format of racemic mixture, and not as a pure isomer, toxicological studies must be
carried for this new composition, since the isomer now can show distinct activities. It is important to note that there is a long
human experience and wide scientific literature supporting the safe use of the natural (-) α-bisabolol while the most respect
surveys basis in the area did not show evidences of published studies about the synthetic product, which is a racemic mixture
and contains the (+)-α-bisabolol, up to now, an understudied agent.
Materials and Methods
In this present study the effectiveness of the natural active (-)-α-bisabolol will be shown by the comparison of the synthetic
product supported by the existing literature.
Results and Discussion
Nowadays, the search for natural products is constantly increase, as long as it’s source as know. With that the actives
produced from the natural forms, are usually free from side effects, easy to obtain, considered healthy, and create income to
the local farmers.
Due to its pharmacological properties and low toxicity besides being biodegradable, the active is target for several scientific
investigations to show the potential effect against some disease like glioma (a malignant tumor which achieves the cells
responsible by the nutrition of the neurons of the central nervous system) (CAVALIERI, et al., 2004), rheumatoid arthritis
(COSMETIC, 1999) and skin whitening (LEE et al., 2010) (both as adjuvant in the treatment) besides its use in cosmetics as
an anti-inflammatory agent of topic use. However, it is known that only the enantiomeric form (-) α-bisabolol has biological
activity, showing that although a synthetic similar can be obtained to the natural form of the active, even in a high degree of
purity, the action potential will not yet be equipotent (NOVAES, 2013).
The synthetic version of alpha bisabolol (± isomers), as already mentioned, is a racemic mixture of the active isomers, in other
words, the synthetic bisabolol must have a portion of the negative isomer (Natural Bisabolol), to present some efficacy.
Figure 1. Stereoisomers of α-bisabolol. Subtitle: 1. (-)-α-bisabolol, 2.

(-)-epi-α-bisabolol, 3. (+)-α-bisabolol 4. (+)-epi-α-bisabolol
The synthesis of a new chemical consists of transformations of raw materials into an end product, through reactions under
controlled conditions. Such conditions, in addition to physical parameters, involve chemical compounds of different
compositions, characteristics and toxicities. The manufacture of a compound of this synthetic nature comprises not only the
commercially acceptable yield; safety and socio-environmental responsibilities are important criteria that must be analyzed
and respected, and it is necessary to evaluate the whole production chain for a complete diagnosis of efficiency.
It’s very interesting to notice that the there is a little available information about the synthetic bisabolol. The most of the works
report the use of farnesol as a starting material, with 50-70% yields. Farnesol is a natural organic compound which is an acyclic
sesquiterpene alcohol. In the most of cases, it is a hydrophobic colorless liquid and miscible with oils. This compound is cited
in the 26 Allergens List according to Annex III of Cosmetic Directive by 7th Amendment (2003/15/EC) for its irritation potential
in sensitive skin. This may be a warning for the moderate use of chemically obtained substances until new studies prove that
they are completely free from harmful interference or offer no risk to consumers. On the other hand, a recent work shows that
not only nature (-)-α-bisabolol has a gastro protective effect (on ethanol-induced ulcer model) but also the others substances
in oil composition, showing a benefit of using natural products (ROCHA et al., 2010).
The natural (-)-α-bisabolol produced by Citroleo is farnesol free. This ensures that the active is not harmful for children or
adults, and can be used in all types of products for sensitive skin, including babies. Also, the natural product is widely used by
the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries, in a range of formulations for hair, face and body like: lipsticks and products for
oral hygiene (toothpaste, mouth rinse), sunscreens and post sun, after-shave products, oils and baby products, anti-acne
products, makeups and deodorants, creams for hands and hair conditioners. Some data found in the literature show that in
addition to farnesol, natural α-bisabolol (in lower concentrations) is also a raw material for the production of the synthetic
alternative. So, both actives source like Chamomile and Candeia tree. In this way, the argument to use synthetic product
instead the natural one for the preservation of resources is not sustained; so producers committed to the entire value chain
of obtaining natural products, such as Citroleo, represent a new look of innovation and socio-environmental responsibility.
Proceeding in observations with the whole production chain of (-) α-bisabolol, it’s very important to attend the beginning of
the process; Citroleo is a pioneer company in the manufacture of nature (-) α-bisabolol of Candeia, and is committed to the
most respectful and serious certifications and with the Integrated Management Policy, being in compliance with the norms
NBR ISO 9001: 2008. Due to the low toxicity found in natural active, the FDA (Food and Drug Administration – from USA)
classified it as Generally Regarded as Safe (GRAS) proving its safety in applications including in the food industry.
Citróleo has a FSC® certification for the candeia forest

management. Look for FSC® Certified products
Keep communities Obtaining high-quality, Respect to APP and Preserved Fair remuneration
in the field sustainable raw Legal Reserves Forest to farmers and
materials communities
Figure 2. The sustainable circle production of Citroleo products.
The environmental certification obtained by Citroleo demonstrates that its performance in a responsible way contributes to
the conservation of natural resources, providing dignified and fair conditions for workers and promoting good relations with
the community close to their area. Conscious of the correct use of natural resources, Citroleo employs sustainable
management techniques, evaluating its environmental, social and economic aspects, respecting the pertinent legislation and
not compacting with practices of illegal extraction of wood and other forestry activities that hurt the concepts of ethics. With
legal and approved modern techniques, the company maintains a program for the production of seedlings and sustainable
plantings. This program includes the production and distribution of more than 10,000 seedlings per year focusing on the
sustainable stewardship plan of the natural forests. This shows that the production of nature (-) α-bisabolol presents no risk
of degradation or deforestation of Candeia forests.
In a pilot project partnership with rural producers (the Forest Partnership Pilot Project) was implemented in the state of Minas
Gerais, for the stewardship plan and sustainable planting of the tree, including support and income generation for local
communities. Another project with Citroleo’s commercial plantation is located in Aiuruoca (State Park of Serra do Papagaio),
an important Environmental Conservation Unit. The planting contributes to the preservation of the scenic beauty of the park,
flora and fauna native to the area. Its contributes to the conservation of natural resources and local species, preserving areas
of permanent preservation (APP), biodiversity, water springs and water courses. In addition, all water used in industrial
processes goes through the process of treatment and decontamination and then is reused, as well as, all production residue
generated undergoes complete treatment before disposal.
Regarding the seasonality implicit in the extraction of natural products, it is important to observe that the area of occurrence
of Candeia, integrated with the sustainable planning of the crop management, offers the producer security and reliability of
delivery (400 to 2200 meters, in 5 different states, includes the fields of Cerrado, Caatinga and Atlantic Forest). In addition,
among all species already studied that contain (-) α-bisabolol in its composition, it is possible to highlight the Candeia, which
besides the considerable biomass production by area, presents high content of the active, with high yield of oil per cultivated
plant (SCOLFORO et al., 2012).
It is important to highlight, the seasonality is not applied from Candeia tree when handled properly, as it is done by Citróleo.
So, there is no interference in product availability.
Conclusion
Thus, with all the above considerations, it can be observed that the actual efficacy of a chemical active (synthetic product)
comprises not only the chemical results of action and yield; all the details of the value and production chains must be
analyzed. Although it is said as similar to the natural in the market, the chemically obtained compounds still have several
disadvantages in relation to the natural, such as, for example, secondary components with irritant action (such as farnesol) as
well as others residues and components still unknown. In addition, natural (-) α-bisabolol (produced by Citroleo) has its
production completely clean and transparent shown in all stages and methodologies used, from the planting of seedlings to
the sale of the final active. Considering the new emerging technologies to obtain α-bisabolol, such as biotechnological
production mediated by microorganisms, it is emphasized that many studies and tests still have to be performed for reliability
of the results. This is because, so far, the industrial processes involved, as well as the strains used and, above all, the long-term
human exposure effects are not known. In contrast, (-) α-bisabolol offered by Citroleo is pure and 100% Natural, of
non-genetically modified origin and has been on the market for more than 40 years, with no ill effects already reported.
References
CAVALIERI, E.; MARIOTTO, S.; FABRIZI, C.; DE PRATI, A. C.; GOTTARDO, R.; LEONE, S.; BERRA, L. V.; LAURO, G. M.; CIAMPA, A. R.;
SUZUKI, H. “α-Bisabolol, a nontoxic natural compound, strongly induces apoptosis in glioma cells”. Biochem. Biophys. Res.
Commun., 315, 589–594, 2004.
COSMETIC INGREDIENT REVIEW EXPERT PANEL, Int. J. Toxicol., 18 (3), 33-40, 1999.
LEE, J.; JUN, H.; JUNG, E.; HA, J.; PARK, D. “Whitening effect of alpha-bisabolol in Asian women subjects”, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci, 32
(4), 299-303, 2010.
NOVAES, Leandro da Rocha. Potencialização das atividades biológicas através de modificações estruturais do α-Bisabolol.
2013. Dissertation (Master in New Materials and Fine Chemistry) - School of Engineering of Lorena, University of São Paulo,
Lorena, 2013. doi:10.11606/D.97.2013.tde-08102013-101325. Access: 2018-01-11.
ROCHA, N. F. M.; VENÂNCIO, E. T.; MOURA, B. A., SILVA, M. I. G.; NETO, M. R. A.; RIOS, E. R. V.; de SOUZA, D. P.; VASCONCELOS,
S. M. M.; FONTELES, M. M. F.; de SOUZA, F. C. F.“Gastroprotection of (-)-α-bisabolol on acute gastric mucosal lesions in mice:
the possible involved pharmacological mechanisms”, Fundam. Clin. Pharmacol, 24, 63–71, 2010.
SCOLFORO, J. R.; de OLIVEIRA, A., D.; DAVIDE, A. C. “O manejo sustentável da candeia”, 1. ed., Lavras: Ed UFLA, 2012.
SIMON, J. S. e MORAES, C. A. P. “Estudo da aplicação do (-)-α-bisabolol em um corretivo para a área dos olhos”, Iniciação -
Revista de Iniciação Científica, Tecnológica e Artística - Edição Temática em Saúde e Bem Estar, 6 (5), 2017. ISSN 2179-474X
SINGH, O.; KHANAM, Z.; MIRSA, N.; SRIVASTAVA, M. “Chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla L.): An overview”, Pharmacogn. Rev.,
5 (9), 82, 2011.
Bio-derived and Sustainable Formulas
2-in-1 Conditioner & Color Protection Conditioning Shampoo

(Cosun Biobased Products) (Cosun Biobased Products)
This mild formula imparts a conditioning effect with foam-boosting properties. This shampoo formula offers improved conditioning and hair-softening effects.
A. C12-15 Pareth-12 (Mulsifan RT 203/80, Zschimmer & A. Sodium Laureth Sulfate (and) Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Schwarz GmbH) 1.00% w/w (and) Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate (and) PEG-9
Fragrance (parfum) qs Cocoglycerides (Lumorol K 5240, Zschimmer & Schwarz
PEG-90 Glyceryl Isostearate (and) Laureth-2 (Oxetal VD 92, GmbH) 19.00% w/w
Zschimmer & Schwarz GmbH) 0.80 Water (aqua) 71.95
B. Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate (Setacin 103 SB, Sodium Laureth Sulfate (and) Glycol Stearate (and)
Zschimmer & Schwarz GmbH) 23.00 Cocamide MEA (and) Cocamide DEA (and) Propylene
Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate (and) Sodium Lauryl Glycol (Pearlagent GM 4175, Zschimmer & Schwarz GmbH) 3.00
Sulfoacetate (Lumorol K 5303, Zschimmer & Schwarz Cocamide DEA 2.00
GmbH) 15.00 Fragrance (parfum) 0.20
Cocamidopropyl Betaine (Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Inulin (Quatin 680 TQ-D, Cosun
Acme-Hardesty) 11.00 Biobased Products) 1.25
Cocamidopropylamine Oxide (Amphotensid COX/MC, Dimethicone 0.70
Zschimmer & Schwarz GmbH) 5.00 Panthenol 0.20
Sodium Myristoyl Glutamate (Protelan MGL, Zschimmer & Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin (Sharomix EG14,
Schwarz GmbH) 3.00 Sharon Laboratories) 0.70
Colorants qs Sodium Chloride 1.00
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Inulin (Quatin 680 TQ-D, Cosun 100.00
Biobased Products) 1.25
Water (aqua) qs Procedure: Homogenize ingredients in the order indicated and adjust the pH to 6.5;
C. Sodium Chloride qs properties: appearance = pearlescent gel; viscosity, at pH 6.4–6.6 = 9,000–11,000
Citric Acid 0.50 mPa.s (@20°C).
Sodium Benzoate (Sodium Benzoate, Sharon Labs) 0.40
Cuticle Cream
Procedure: Homogenize A. Add B to A and disperse. Add C to AB and homogenize. (Citróleo)
Control the pH and adjust, if necessary, to pH 5.5; properties: appearance = clear;
viscosity, at pH 5.3–5.7 = 10,000–13,000 mPa.s (@20°C). This soft cream for the removal of cuticles leaves no white appearance on the nails
and imparts a moisturizing effect to the surrounding skin.
Anhydrous Liquid Soap A. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00% w/w
(Acme-Hardesty Co.) Glycerin (Glycerin, Acme-Hardesty) 5.00
Disodium EDTA 0.50
This bright orange soap and shower gel revitalizes skin to make users look and B. Cetearyl Alcohol (Ahcohol 1618, Acme-Hardesty) 3.00
feel refreshed. The body wash will leave skin softened and smooth thanks to
Ceteareth-20 (Ceteareth-20, Acme-Hardesty) 0.20
moisturizing glycerin.
Cetearyl Olivate (and) Sorbitan Olivate (Olivem 1000,
A. Sodium Coco-sulfate (SLS 95, Acme-Hardesty Co.) 8.24% w/w The Hallstar Company) 6.00
Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES, Acme-Hardesty Co.) 18.73 Glyceryl Stearate 0.80
Propylene Glycol 18.73 Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil (Babaçu Oil, Citroleo) 1.50
Glycerin (Glycerin, Acme-Hardesty Co.) 37.82 Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter (Murumuru Butter,
Pectin 15.36 Citroleo) 1.50
Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Eremanthus Erythropappus Branch/Leaf Oil (Citrue Bisabolol,
Iron Oxides (and) Tin Oxide (Syncrystal Supernova Orange, Citroleo) 0.10
Eckart Cosmetic Colours LLC) 1.12 Butylated Hydroxytoluene 0.05
100.00 C. Citric Acid qs
D. Preservatives qs
Procedure: Add all ingredients to main beaker, mixing after each addition. Mix batch Fragrance (parfum) qs
until homogenous.
Procedure: Mix A and homogenize. Heat to 80°C. Mix B and homogenize at 80°C.
Conditioning Body Balm Add B to A at temperature and under stirring. Stop heating. Adjust pH with C. Add
D and homogenize; properties: viscosity = 17.77 Pa.s (RH3 max. 100 Pa.s @ 25°C);
(Acme-Hardesty Co.) pH = 5.49.
This rich body balm is formulated with natural butters, oil and esters to provide deep
moisture to skin. The conditioning formula melts on touch to soothe dry, irritated skin Exfoliating Face Mask
and to restore hydration.
(Acme-Hardesty Co.)
A. Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil 14.44% w/w
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (MCT 3595, Acme-Hardesty Co.) 16.67 This exfoliating cleansing mask purifies pores and diminishes skin dullness. Eco Scrub
Murumuru provides gentle exfoliation to remove dirt and impurities while EnSense Luxe
Triolein (EnSense Luxe TO, Acme-Hardesty Co.) 14.44
TO and Cupuacu Butter provide moisture and hydration.
Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil 2.22
Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter 20.89 A. Water (aqua) 56.15% w/w
Virola Sebifera Nut Oil (Uccúba Butter, Citroleo) 20.89 B. Tetrasodium EDTA 0.05
Hydrogenated Castor Oil (Castor Wax MP 70, Acme- C. Maltol (and) Didecyldimonium Chloride (Sharosense Plus
Hardesty Co.) 10.45 184, Sharon Laboratories Ltd.) 0.80
100.00 D. Bentonite (Gelwhite H XR, Eckart Cosmetic Colours LLC) 10.00
Glycerin (Glycerin, Acme-Hardesty Co.) 3.00
Procedure: Add all ingredients to main beaker, mixing after each addition. Heat batch E. Emulsifying Wax NF 5.00
to 80°C. Mix batch until homogenous. Triolein (EnSense Luxe TO, Acme-Hardesty Co.) 5.00
Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter (Cupuaçu Butter,
Citroleo) 5.00
F. Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Powder (Eco Scrub Murumuru,
Citroleo) 15.00
100.00

Procedure: Add A to main beaker. Add B to A and mix until uniform. Once dis- Nourish and Protect Conditioner
solved, add C to AB. Add D to batch and mix until homogenous. Heat mixture to
60°C. Combine E and heat to 60°C. Mix until completely homogenous. Add to main (Citróleo)
batch and mix for 20 min. Allow formula to gradually cool. At 35°C, add F. Mix under This conditioner provides action against moisture loss and guarantees hair softness
moderate shear. and protection. In addition, it maintains the natural alignment of hair.
A. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00% w/w
Inspired By Nature Ecocert/COSMOS Facial Cream
Disodium EDTA 0.50
(Sharon Laboratories) Glycerin (Glycerin, Acme-Hardesty) 2.00
Inspired by nature, this silky feeling facial cream is based on Ecocert/COSMOS compli- Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine (Green Behenic (BAPDMA),
ant ingredients, including the the Sharon Biomix product. This preservative solution Citroleo) 1.50
enables formulators to easily stabilize soft and rich textures not easily achieved in B. Lactic Acid 0.35
natural formulations. Sharon Biomix II (comprising Sharon's Biosecur blend and C. Cetearyl Alcohol (Ahcohol 1618, Acnme-Hardesty) 8.00
natural phenethyl alcohol) is recommended at a use level of 0.8-0.9% and does not
impact formula stability.
Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Behentrimonium Methosulfate
A. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00% w/w (Incroquat Behenyl TMS, Croda) 1.20
Guar Gum 0.20 Bisabolol (and) Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil (and) Virola Sebifera
Glycerin (Glycerin, Acme-Hardesty) 4.00 Nut Oil (and) Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter (and)
B. Cetearyl Alcohol (Ahcohol 1618, Acme-Hardesty) 3.00 Carapa Guaianensis Seed Oil (and) Macadamia Ternifolia
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (MCT 3595, Acme-Hardesty) 20.00 Seed Oil (AlphaVelvety, Citroleo) 3.00
Phenethyl Alcohol (and) Glycerin (and) Citrus Reticulata Butylated Hydroxytoluene 0.05
(Tangerine) Fruit Extract (and) Citrus Aurantium Amara D. Citric Acid qs
(Bitter Orange) Fruit Extract (and) Citrus Sinensis (Orange) E. Preservatives qs
Peel Extract (and) Ascorbic Acid (and) Citric Acid (and) Fragrance (parfum) qs
Lactic Acid (and) Water (aqua) (Sharon Biomix Pure II,
Sharon Laboratories Ltd.) 0.80 Procedure: Mix A under heating to 70-80°C. Add B (lactic acid 90%) to A until
Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside (Montanov 68, complete homogenization of the surfactant. Mix C. Add C to AB under stirring and
Seppic) 5.00 heating. After homogenous, stop heating. If necessary, correct pH with D. Add E and
homogenize; properties: viscosity = 150 Pa.s (RH4 max. 200 Pa.s @ 25°C); pH = 4.9.
Procedure: Heat water to 45-50°C. Add A while stirring until fully dissolved. Heat B
while stirring until melted and unified. Homogenize AB at approx. 55°C. Premium Body Shampoo
(Cosun Biobased Products)
Lipstick for Chapped Lips This creamy and rich-foaming formula offers moisturization and mildness.
(Citróleo)
A. Cocamidopropyl Betaine (and) Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate
This formula with a pleasant matte effect imparts intense moisturization with gentle (and) Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate (Lumorol K 5601,
spreadability to prevent cracking and imperfections on the lips.
Zschimmer & Schwarz GmbH) 42.00% w/w
A. Bisabolol (and) Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil (and) Virola Sebifera Fragrance (parfum) qs
Nut Oil (and) Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter (and) B. Hydroxypropyltrimonium Inulin (Quatin 350 TQ-D, Cosun
Carapa Guaianensis Seed Oil (and) Macadamia Ternifolia Biobased Products) 1.25
Seed Oil (AlphaVelvety, Citroleo) qs to 100.00% w/w Sodium Phytate (and) Water (aqua) (and) Alcohol (Dermofeel
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil (PEG-40 Hydrogenated PA-3, Dr. Straetmans Chemische Produkte GmbH) 0.05
Castor Oil, Acme-Hardesty) 10.00 Sodium Benzoate (Sodium Benzoate, Sharon Labs) 0.40
Cetearyl Alcohol (Ahcohol 1618, Acme-Hardesty) 5.00 Citric Acid qs
Ceteareth-20 (Ceteareth-20, Acme-Hardesty) 0.50 Water (aqua) qs
Butylated Hydroxytoluene 0.05
B. Preservatives qs Procedure: Homogenize A. Homogenize B. Add B to A and stir until homogenous.
Fragrance (parfum) qs Control the pH and adjust, if necessary, to pH 5.6; properties: appearance; clear and
viscous; viscosity, at pH 5.4–5.8 = 10,000–12,000 mPa.s (@20°C).
Procedure: Heat A to 70-80°C until complete solubilization with gentle homogeniza-
tion. At 40°C, add B to A and homogenize.
Moldable Cleansing Shower Dough

(Acme-Hardesty Co.)
Luxurious lavender in this formula lathers for dreamy skin while tea tree soothes sore
muscles. The moldable shower dough format can be used as a shampoo or body
wash by taking a small amount in the hands and lathering it up for good suds.
A. Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS 95, needle form,
Acme-Hardesty Co.) 41.98% w/w
Sodium Coco-sulfate (SCS 95, Acme-Hardesty Co.) 22.90
Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower Oil 3.81
Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil 0.77
Pectin 15.27
Glycerin (Glycerin, Acme-Hardesty Co.) 15.27
100.00
Procedure: Add all ingredients to main beaker, mixing after each addition. Mix batch
until homogenous.

Soft Touch Lotion

(Cosun Biobased Products)
This soft skin-feeling formula offers easy spreadability and mattifying properties.
A. Squalane 5.00% w/w
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil 5.00
Oryza Sativa (Rice) Seed Oil 2.00
B. Xanthan Gum (Keltrol CG-SFT, CP Kelco) 1.00
C. Sodium Myristoyl Glutamate 10.00
Lactic Acid 0.40
Fragrance (parfum) qs
Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch 5.00
Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin (Sharomix EG14,
Sharon Laboratories) 0.50
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Inulin (Quatin 350 TQ-D, Cosun
Biobased Products) 1.25
Water (aqua) qs
Procedure: Homogenize A. Add B to A and disperse. Add C to AB and homogenize.

Purifying Calming Dead Sea Mud Mask Control the pH and adjust, if necessary, to pH 6.5 and homogenize again; properties:
(Sharon Laboratories) appearance = white lotion; viscosity, at pH 6.3–6.7 = 70,000–90,000 mPa.s (@20°C).
The Dead Sea is one of the world's saltiest bodies of water, with a salinity above 34%.
Dead Sea mud (silt) is known for its therapeutic benefits thanks to natural minerals. Sunscreen Cream SPF 45
Nevertheless, mud masks are prone to contamination. While high preservative con- (Sharon Laboratories)
centrations could be considered, these pose risks for irritation and formula instability.
SharoMix AM25, however, demonstrating antimicrobial activity, passed the challenge Climate change and global warming have made sunscreens a part of consumers'
test in this "preservative-free" formula. Containing 20% Dead Sea mud, this formula daily wear routines. To improve sun protection, combining different UV filters and
detoxifies skin and soothes and enriches it. absorbers is a must, which consequently increases the oily phase in the end formula.
Using high amounts of non-polar preservatives in the oil phase, however, poses risks
A. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00% w/w of contamination since low-polar preservatives tend to migrate into the oily phase,
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder 0.10 leaving the aqueous phase unprotected. SharoSense Plus 184 provides the answer.
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl This innovative polar preservative system brings uncompromised antimicrobial efficacy
Taurate Copolymer 0.20 at low use levels (0.7%).
Tetrasodium EDTA 0.10 A. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00% w/w
Glycerin (Glycerin, Acme-Hardesty) 5.00 Maltol (and) Didecyldimonium Chloride (Sharosense
Silt 20.00 Plus 184, Sharon Laboratories Ltd.) 0.70
B. Cetearyl Alcohol (Ahcohol 1618, Acme-Hardesty) 10.00 Xanthan Gum 0.50
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (MCT 3595, Acme-Hardesty) 3.00 B. Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside (Montanov 68,
Stearic Acid (Stearic Acid, Acme-Hardesty) 0.50 Seppic) 3.00
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil 1.00 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (MCT 3595, Acme-Hardesty) 5.00
Tocopherol 0.05 Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Ceteareth-20 (Acme-Hardesty) 3.00
Phenoxyethanol (and) Chlorphenesin (and) Caprylyl Glycol Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 7.50
(and) Didecyldimonium Chloride (Sharomix Amplify AM 25, Benzophenone-3 6.00
Sharon Laboratories Ltd.) 0.80 Octyl Salicylate 5.00
Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Ceteareth-20 (Acme-Hardesty) 4.00 Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 1.60
Homosalate 10.00
Procedure: Heat water to 45-50°C, Add A in the order listed with stirring, ensuring full Titanium Dioxide 3.00
dissolution before adding the next. Heat B to 50-60°C while stirring until melted and PVP (and) VP/Eicosene Copolymer (Antaron V-220, Ashland LLC) 3.00
unified. Homogenize AB together at approx. 55°C.
Tocopheryl Acetate 1.10
Second Skin Procedure: Heat water to 45-50°C. Add remaining A in the order listed with mixing,
(Citróleo) ensure complete dissolution before adding the next ingredient. Heat B to 50-60°C
This creamy and moisturizing lotion rapidly absorbs, is dry to the touch and imparts a while stirring until melted and unified. Homogenize batch at approx. 55°C.
pleasant matte effect, guaranteeing outstanding aesthetics and protection.
A. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00% w/w
Disodium EDTA 0.50
B. Cetearyl Alcohol (Ahcohol 1618, Acme-Hardesty) 5.00
Cetearyl Olivate (and) Sorbitan Olivate (Olivem 1000,
The Hallstar Company) 7.00
Glyceryl Stearate 2.00
Bisabolol (and) Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil (and) Virola
Sebifera Nut Oil (and) Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed
Butter (and) Carapa Guaianensis Seed Oil (and)
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil (AlphaVelvety, Citroleo) 3.00
Butylated Hydroxytoluene 0.05
C. Citric Acid qs
D. Preservatives qs
Fragrance (parfum) qs
Procedure: Mix A and homogenize. Heat to 70-80°C. Mix B and homogenize at 70-
80°C. Add B to A at temperature and under stirring. Stop heating. Adjust pH with C. At 0.7%, the SharoSense Plus 184 natural-like, polar
Add D and homogenize; properties: viscosity = 3,411 Pa.s. (RH4 max. 200 Pa.s @
25°C); pH = 5.15. preservative shows excellent results.

Supplier Listing
AB Specialty Silicones BioPowder.com/Schilling Ltd. Diafana Representaciones The Hallstar Company

Waukegan, IL USA Birkirkara Malta Montevideo Uruguay Chicago, IL USA
Tel: 1-800-678-3024, 1-908-273- Tel: 49-0-151-2236-3566 Tel: 59-82-708-6830 Tel: 1-877-427-4255, 1-312-385-
8015 kschilling@bio-powder.com hjurburg@internet.com.uy 4494
info@andisil.com www.bio-powder.com Fax: 1-330-929-3616
www.andisil-personal-care.com DLG Naturals, Inc. beautycs@hallstar.com
Cargill Beauty Janesville, WI USA www.hallstar.com
Acme-Hardesty Co. Paris France Tel: 1-815-420-5485
Blue Bell, PA USA Tel: 33-6-37-75-40-01 sales@dlgnaturals.com I & W Research Inc.
Tel: 1-800-223-7054, 1-215-591- Stephane_Lacoutiere@cargill.com www.dlgnaturals.com West Vancouver, BC Canada
3610 www.cargillbeauty.com Tel: 1-866-783-0009, 1-360-326-
Fax: 1-215-591-3620 Dr. Paul Lohmann GmbH KG 6446
sales@acme-hardesty.com CB Minerals LLC Emmerthal Germany Fax: 1-360-326-6446
www.acme-hardesty.com Mamaroneck, NY USA Tel: 49-5155-63-5861 wpretorius@i-and-w.com
Tel: 1-914-777-3330 www.lohmann4minerals.com www.i-and-w.com
Advonex International Corp. info@cbminerals.com
Brockville, ON Canada www.cbminerals.com DSM Personal Care Immortelle Therapy
Tel: 1-613-767-9285 Parsippany, NJ USA New York, NY USA
cjoshi@advonexintl.com Chemyunion Quimica Ltda Tel: 1-800-526-0189 Tel: 1-212-844-9004
www.advonexintl.com CEP 04144-020 Saude Sao Paulo, Info.pc-na@dsm.com sales@immortelletherapy.com
Brazil www.dsm.com/markets/personal- immortelletherapy.com
Ajinomoto North America, Inc. Tel: 55-11-2173-0103 care/en_US/home.html
Raleigh, NC USA Fax: 55-11-2173-0100 Ingredion Inc.
Tel: 8775079303 intlsales@chemyunion.com.br Eko-aromatik Westchester, IL USA
Fax: 919-325-1420 www.chemyunion.com.br Ljubuski Bosnia-Herzegovina Tel: 1-708-551-2600
spc_sales@ajiusa.com Tel: 38-76-359-5359 cindy.yu@ingredion.com
www.ajiaminobeauty.com Citróleo export@eko-aromatik.com ingredion.com
Sao Paulo Brazil www.eko-aromatik.com
Aprinnova Tel: 55-14-3656-9900 INOLEX
Emeryville, CA USA citroleo@citroleogroup.com Elementis Philadelphia, PA USA
Tel: 1-510-917-1922 www.citroleogroup.com East Windsor, NJ USA Tel: 1-800-521-9891, 1-215-271-
toner@aprinnova.com Tel: 1-800-866-6800, 1-609-443- 0800
aprinnova.com/ Colonial Chemical Inc. 2500 Fax: 1-215-271-2621
South Pittsburg, TN USA Fax: 1-609-443-2422 info@INOLEX.com
Ashland LLC Tel: 1-800-830-2436, 1-423-837- kathleen.benditt@elementis.com www.INOLEX.com
Wilmington, DE USA 8800 www.elementis.com
Tel: 1-800-505-8984 Fax: 1-423-837-3888 International Cosmetics Science
Janina.Servino@ashland.com jim@colonialchem.com EMD Chemicals Inc.-RONA Centre A/S (ICSC)
www.ashland.com/personalcare www.colonialchem.com Cosmetic Business Unit Harlev J Denmark
Gibbstown, NJ USA Tel: 45-8622-9986
BASF Corporation Cosun Biobased Products Tel: 1-888-444-7762, 1-856-423- Fax: 45 86 229996
Florham Park, NJ USA NE Breda Netherlands 6300 info@icsc.dk
Tel: 1-800-880-5768 Tel: 31-0-76-530-32-22 Fax: 1-856-423-4389 www.icsc.dk
Fax: 1-973-245-6764 Fax: 31-0-76-530-33-03 rona@emdchemicals.com
beautycare-na@basf.com info@cosun.com www.rona.biz Jojoba Desert (A.C.S) Ltd.
personal-care.basf.com www.cosunbiobased.com Kibutz Hatzerim Israel
Floratech Tel: 972505421999
BASF SE Croda Chandler, AZ USA Fax: 97286473690
Ludwigshafen Germany Edison, NJ USA Tel: 1-480-545-7000 adva.ambar@jojobadesert.com
Tel: 1-800-531-0815, 49-00800- Tel: 1-800-526-5294, 1-732-417- Fax: 1-480-892-3000 www.jojobadesert.com
2273-4444 0800 sales@floratech.com
Fax: 49-211-7981-9727 Fax: 1-732-417-0804 www.floratech.com Kalaroma LLC
beautycare-eu@basf.com thomas.castles@croda.com Union, NJ USA
www.beautycare.basf.com/ www.crodapersonalcare.com Grant Industries Inc. Tel: 9088666450
Elmwood Park, NJ USA purchasing@kalaroma.com
Bio Component Research Crodarom SAS Tel: 1-201-791-8700 www.shamanoils.com
Elmwood Park, NJ USA 48230 Chanac France Fax: 1-201-791-3887
Tel: 1-201-791-8700 Tel: 33-4-66-48-20-27 info@grantinc.com Lonza Home & Personal Care
info@bcringredients.com www.crodarom.com www.grantinc.com Morristown, NJ USA
www.bcringredients.com Tel: 1-800-777-1875
personalcare@lonza.com
www.lonza.com/personalcare

Supplier Listing
Matrica S.P.A. Pilot Chemical Co. Silab

Porto Torres (SS) Italy West Chester, OH USA Brive France
Tel: 39-079-509000 Tel: 1-800-707-6548, 1-513-326- Tel: 33-0-5-55-84-58-40
Fax: 39 079 509257 0600 Fax: 33-0-5-55-84-95-64
info@matrica.it Fax: 1-513-326-0601 silab@silab.fr
www.matrica.it/default.asp?ver=en info@pilotchemical.com www.silab.fr
www.pilotchemical.com
MMP, Inc. Stepan Company
South Plainfield, NJ USA Praan Naturals Northfield, IL USA
Tel: 1-908-561-4435 Oxford, CT USA Tel: 1-800-745-7837, 1-847-446-
Fax: 1-908-561-4780 Tel: 1-800-340-0080, 1-203-702- 7500
sales.us@mmpinc.com 2500 Fax: 1-847-501-2443
www.mmpinc.com Fax: 1-203-702-2501 www.stepan.com
sales@PRAANnaturals.com
Nanoshell Company www.PRAANnaturals.com Symrise, Inc.
Salt Lake City, UT USA Teterboro, NJ USA
Tel: 1-801-698-3955 Renmatix Tel: 1-201-288-3200
aostafin@nanoshellcompany.com King of Prussia, PA USA Michelle.Wade@Symrise.com
nanoshellcompany.com Tel: 1-484-751-4065 symrise.com
tony.abboud@renmatix.com
Natural Plant Products renmatix.com/ Tianjin YR Chemspec
Salem, OR USA Technology Co., Ltd.
Tel: 1-503-363-6402 schulke Tianjin China
sales@meadowfoam.com Norderstedt Germany Tel: 86-22-2760-7566
meadowfoam.com Tel: 49-40-521-00-0 sales@yrspec.com
Fax: 49-40-521-244 www.yrspec.com
New Directions Aromatics Inc. sai@schuelke.com
Mississauga, ON Canada www.schuelke.com United Mineral and Chemical
Tel: 1-877-255-7692, 905-362-1915 Corp.
Fax: 800-246-8207 Sederma Lyndhurst, NJ USA
info@newdirectionsaromatics.com 78612 Le Perray-en-Yvelines Tel: 1-201-507-3300
www.newdirectionsaromatics.com Cedex France Fax: 1-201-507-1506
Tel: 33-0-1-34-84-10-10 mtowey@umccorp.com
Novel Nutrients Pvt. Ltd. Fax: 33-0-1-34-84-11-30 www.umcorp.com
Bangalore India sederma@sederma.fr
Tel: 91-80-3221-6948, 91-96-2017- www.sederma.com Vantage Specialty Ingredients
7557 Warren, NJ USA
Fax: 91-80-3221-6948 Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd. Tel: 1-973-345-8600
marketing2@novelnutrient.com Osaka Japan Fax: 1-973-345-8365
www.novelnutrient.com/ Tel: 81-72-987-2072, 81-72-987- Marketing.PC.US@vantagegrp.
2626 com
Oat Cosmetics sales@seiwakasei.co.jp www.vantagegrp.com
Hampshire United Kingdom www.seiwakasei.co.jp/en/
Tel: 011-00-44-2380-767-228
cometics@oat.co.uk Sharon Laboratories Ltd.
oat.co.uk Ashdod Israel
Tel: 972-8-8549800
OQEMA Flavour & Fragrance Fax: 972-8-8679636
Ingredients info@sharon-labs.co.il
Oxfordshire United Kingdom www.sharon-labs.com
Tel: 44-1993-843081
Fax: 44-1993-841261 Shin-Etsu Silicones of America,
fandf@oqema.co.uk Inc.
oqemafandf.co.uk/ Akron, OH USA
Tel: 1-800-544-1745, 1-973-339-
Oriel Marine Extracts 9077
Co. Louth Ireland Fax: 1-330-630-9855
Tel: 353872329199 ebishop@shinetsusilicones.com
info@orielmarineextracts.com www.shinetsusilicones.com
www.orielmarineextracts.com

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Bio-derived and

The Definitive Peer-Reviewed Cosmetic Science Resource

Free Ebook Sponsored By:

• This free resource was developed to

How Bio-derived Became

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61 Bio-derived and Sustainable Formulas

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Bio-based actives and

Our dedicated personal care

Sustainability is a key focus for

• The future of this segment is to be sought

Andrea Mitarotonda, Ph.D.

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‘The key to formulating Firstly, as Judi Beerling put it, in Chapter

natural and organic try is Greening Up, “The natural cosmetic

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‘The lack of consensus on a globally

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‘Natural and organic formulae will need to

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Biosecur® Organic Antimicrobial

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• As such, this article serves as a

John I. Yablonski David R. Winne

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Reproduction in English or any other language of all or

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Organic Certification (excluding water and salt) only organically

Confirming CBD Skin Care

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The FDA has no legal authority for the

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Botanicals for Hair and Responsibly

Vol. 134, No. 6 | June 2019

facebook.com/CandTmagazine Cosmetics & Toiletries @cosmeticsandtoiletries

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During the 1800s, synthetic ingredients first

Natural Soy Conditioning

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Once a plant species is chosen, another

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Chemical Analysis and

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