Textile Research

http://trj.sagepub.com/
Journal

The Mechanical Properties of Woven Fabrics: Part V: The Initial Modulus and the Frictional Restraint
in shearing of Plain Weave Fabrics
P. Grosberg and B.J. Park
Textile Research Journal 1966 36: 420
DOI: 10.1177/004051756603600505

The online version of this article can be found at:

http://trj.sagepub.com/content/36/5/420

Published by:

http://www.sagepublications.com

Additional services and information for Textile Research Journal can be found at:

Email Alerts: http://trj.sagepub.com/cgi/alerts

Subscriptions: http://trj.sagepub.com/subscriptions

Reprints: http://www.sagepub.com/journalsReprints.nav

Permissions: http://www.sagepub.com/journalsPermissions.nav

>> Version of Record - May 1, 1966

What is This?

Downloaded from trj.sagepub.com at UCSF LIBRARY & CKM on May 8, 2014

 420

The Mechanical Properties of Woven Fabrics

Part V: The Initial Modulus and the Frictional Restraint in
shearing of Plain Weave Fabrics
P. Grosberg and B. J. Park
Department of Textile Industries, University of Leeds, Leeds, 2, England
Abstract
Modes of deformation involved in shearing of plain weave fabrics are analyzed in
terms of the mechanical properties of yarn and the geometrical parameters of the fabric.
The effective contact lengths at the intersecting points in the fabric are determined from
,
the initial modulus of shearing. The hysteresis produced during shearing is determined by
the proposed mechanisms of deformation and is found to correlate well with experiments.
~

’
’

Introduction , ,
shear behavior has been studied in more recent years
,¡~, ,
B

The shear behavior of woven fáhrics is: an’ im- by other %%,orL-ers- ( I 1, 12, 2-~, 31]. However, their
,

are mainly concerned with a geometric and

portant characteristic in fabrics. whose end-use is for studies induced
’

due to non-alignment
’
’ apparel purpose. Large shearing strains resulting ofstress with theshear rigiclity,stress directions. Their
from low shear stress are necessary to, fit a fahric yarn principal
which lies in a ’single plane to the various thr8e- analyses are further based on the assumptions of
,

dimensional surfaces . required when forming the pin-jointed, flexible, inextensible and frictionless ’

cloth into a garment [3, 21, 231. The shear nte~h- ~’ yarns..
,

anisin influences the draping, pliability, and handle As shown bv Cusick [10],. Go [14]! and I,indherg ,
’,

qualities of woven fabrics [9, 13, 19] . The shear [21 .in a qualitative way using a mode1, shearing
deformation .in fabrics influences’ the anisotropy of hysteresis is produced as a result of yarn slippage at
mechanical properties of fabrics in tensile and bend- ’the intersections of the in the fabric. Itrenmr yarn
’ and Chen have also shown that the degree of
[51
ing .in the directions other than orthogonal to the
warp or filling direction ( 7, 14, 20L The shearing wringing can be modified by the frictional restraints
at the yarn intersection points deduced from the
properties of fahrics are of importance in many
shearing of the fal>ric.. _ ’
’

other applications. The shearing characteristics of

fabrics have to be considered in designing air ships.
space suits, and inflatahle shelters. which are usually
biaxial or iiiulti-axial stress fields and in which the
order of stress is much higher than in the garment
end-uses
[ 11; 12, 18. 24, 31]. ’
’
This paper is specifically concerned with the mech-
anism of the frictional slippage in sltear, which
produces the higher modulus at the initiation of shear
in, the plain weave fabrics and also produces hysteresis
in ’ the shearing behavior. The shearing apparatus
..
.
,

The described by Behre [4] is used as a basis for study-

shearing properties of woven fabrics, there-
’

fore, play a very important role in the mechanical ing the ’shear behavior of these fabrics.
.
hehavior of fahrics, but has not received much atten- ’

.
Theoretical Analysis
tion until Undberg and his coworkers became ititer-
,

Modes of Deformation
’

ested in cloth engineering, pven though there , are

t some studies related to the’shear pr.operties of woven fabric occurs by the
Shearing in a ~ plain weave
fabrics, there are no other analyses of the detailed relative movement of two sets of yarns, warJY and
mechanisms explaining the shear resistance of fabrics filling, which are interlaced in a one up and one down
’f4, 5, 8, 10/1% 14, 21, 25 1. Hass [18] has initiated a fashion. Because of the bending resistance of the
study of shear In the f>lain(lweaB’e fabric subjected to yarns which forn1 the fabric, the yarn exerts a pres-
the biaxial stress fiel(is, and this particular aspect of sure at the cross-over joints, which, in turn, produces
~
.: ... , ’
,
~,

Downloaded from trj.sagepub.com at UCSF LIBRARY & CKM on May 8, 2014

 421

frictional resistance to shearing. 1Bs a result, the

.

a
modes of deformation involve several forms depend-
’

ing upon the decree of shear imposed upon the fabric. ’

These are ’

1) Deformation due to rigid intersections when

the shear is too small to overcome the friction.
’2) Yarn slippage at the intersectiun. This takes
place graduiilly. I
.

3) ~1n elastic deformation when slipping is com-

’

plete. - . .

4) Jamming in the structure,. ~

These modes of deformation are shown in a typical

shear resistance curve in Figure 1. As a sliear force
is applied to the fabric, initially, i.e., for small defor-
mations, the structure acts as if it were a rigid trellis
and, hence, the shear modulus is quite high’as shown
by 0. 1. If there were no slippage at tlte intersecting t
,

points in the fabric, the slope would retain along I, ,,

I.

1)~l, but slippage commences at the joints and, when 1 ) Deformation of the yarn is considered to 1>e due
to bending ol~ly, ., .
’ ~
>

tlte frictional resistance starts to alpear, the curve 1

changes as indicated by l).T3. After the complete 2) The yarn has the bending stiffness B. ’
slippage, there is a linear resistance whose additional 3) ’ The yarn is inextensible during deformation.
resistance seems to be the result of purely elastic
’&dquo;
~ ~ 4) The contact 1el~~;tl~e5 at intersecting points in
fabrics are the same in both directions.
bending of the yarn [51..Bs a result, the ltysteresis )ji
’

,
..

in shear is determined solely hy the second region In order to derive the relationship between sliear
mentioHl’(1 above. Further increase in the shear force and deformation, an element of the structure
force results in a non-linear region
which is most .
lias
I
been isolated as a unit cell of the fabric as shown
.

probably a result of the jamming of tlte structure. jii Figure 2. I)ue to symmetry of the unit cell, there
It should be noted that somewhere along tlte path of)¡ are no bending moments at the isolated free ends
the shear resistance curve, buckling in the form of and there is only a shear force acting. Because the
wrinkling occurs depending on the stress fields in. joint behaves as if welded for these extremely small
and properties of. the fabric. deformations (order of 0.0~, degree of shearing).
_
~ each beam deforms as a cantilever. Hence, the total
l,tetorntcitic~rt Due tu kiyid Ititersectiotis ,
’

angle of shear in this unit cell due tq the applied,

shear force would be the sum of the angles of
Since fabrics are inter-woven by bending the beams
’

deformation in tl~e,tl4’O sections of the beam. Thus.

of yarn. there is a normal pressure acting at each
cross joint of tlle yarns in the unset fabric. There-
fore. the cross joints are held in position by fnctional
restraint. If a sliear force is applied which’ is less
than the frictional restraint at the intersecting points,
the fabric should behave like an elastic grid structure ~
&dquo;

whose joints are welded at tlle contact points. The ,

,

where 8---total shear angle (radial))’; 01-shear angle .

deformation should, therefore, be purely elastic and
in the arm ( 1 ) ; 0z-shear angle in the arm (2);’ F―
should not produce any hysteresis. This deforma-
applied total shear force (g); B―bending stiffness
tion is represented bv the initial slope of tlae sliear ’ of
yarn ,(g-em2); L-sample width (cm)-10 cm X 10 .
resistance curve show n in Figure 1. em; I’1; ~2-yarn spacing (Ctl1); 11 ; l2-length of .

The fundamental assumptions made in this analysis yarn (cm) ; d---contact len~;tl, ;-, (,&dquo;--initial’ shear
have been as follows: &dquo;
,modulus -(gr/rad). ~ ‘
’
.
’

Downloaded from trj.sagepub.com at UCSF LIBRARY & CKM on May 8, 2014

 422

. -
...

- .
-,
From this equation, Equation 3, the contact lengths &dquo;
’

II can be calculate(1. ’ &dquo;

.

7’kq Slippage .~Techccnzsnt ctt t‘cce ~ntersecting points

1
The assumptions in this analj’sis are
1) , that the total contact pressure can be found
according to a method duc to 1’circe ~17, 29]
’ and that it is distributed triangutarih over
,

, the contact region.

’

,
, .

2) that the contact at, the interseotion is

’
a line
contact.
.

-.

3) that slippage taikes place gradually from the

outer boundary of the contact to the inner
r
’
’

boundary.
’
v r
.

j .

In a unset plain weave ’fabric, the iloriii~il pres-

’

sure j’ is produced due to bending of the straight

yarn into a crimp from during weaving. The
normat force is approximately given by ~17, 29]

-
m.c NormOl,torCe Ulogrom .

’
,

j where 1’--- normal fcrrrc~ ; 13 - betiding stiffness of the

Fig.
’
.
2.
’
,
,
1 yam; 1’- spacing of the yaros; 1/; crimp angle.
’
&dquo; However, siru;e the yarn is not a purely elastic
1&dquo;’he labelli&dquo;ng of. the parameters by the subscripts body, the yarn is permanently set to some decree
t and 2 is in accordance with the usual convention in the crimp form at d, therefore, the normal force
except for the sf)acings,, ,f’~ and I’2. The subscript has to be calculated accordingly. In other words,
1 refers to spacings along the warp yarn and the if the yarn when released from the fabrie recovers
. ’

subscript 2 is along the filling yarn. -to a straight yarn, then 1* is given by 16B sin ~’I’‘=.
If the contact lengths at the intersecting point5 But in practice, only a certain fraction of the crimp
were known, the initial modulus. would he Tepre- 4o is lost when the yarn is removed froln the fabric
,
, sented by Equation 2. The contact lengths, how. due to the partial set of the crinil). - The normal ’

ever, are not known experiiiie~italin. nor is it possiblf force is then given (see Appendix 1 ) buy
to. calculate them from known parameters of th(
fabric. The effective contact lengths however car
’

be deduced from the Equation 2 by measuring the I -

initial modulus of shear expcrimentallv. If Equa. where <~&horbar;elastic crimp factor. According to the
tipn 2 is manipulated in term o.~ a non-dlmenslona i
quantity (fi ’/2)’ the equation becomes a cubic - I
[ ~ 3,((’), the normal pressure
pressure distribution proposed and shown in
at a point x (see Fig. 3a)
Figure
, equation in (d,ll,), ~‘’ .

Since the entire normal force is distributed in four

arms at the contact ioint, I ..

Downloaded from trj.sagepub.com at UCSF LIBRARY & CKM on May 8, 2014

 423

~ The bending moments both due to the externally

applied force and due to the frictional restraints
along the arm varies as are shown in&dquo;Figure 3(B).
Until the end of the slipped region (A) is reached,
the bending moment rises linearly due to the
constant shear, and the bending moment due to the
frictional restraint, in the region between B to A
varies according to the nqrmvl pressure distribution.
At point A where the slipping ends, the net bending
moment shoutd be zero. ()thcrwise, some further
slipping would take pl’aLCE’. f lenre, it is possihlc to
equate the frictional iiionieiit acting between the
two yarns in the region froni .1 to B to the bending
moment due to the externally applied shear force
which would have acted at .I if no friction were
.
acting. The friction al motpent is given kay ,

,’
’

, Fig. 3. <

,,>hcrc p’ coemcicnt of friction, a the arbitrary Since both equations contain the parameter ~A/,.the
distance of the slip boundary from the ec~ge of the shear force 1&dquo; the shear iaigle 8 can be obtained
contact Ic~n~;th, ~~ -contact length. To calculate
when, slipping any fraction of, the, contact length ’

, thc actual tnoment, it should be noted that the by varying aid front 0 to 1. ’

contact lengths in hoth directions would, in general,

’ ’

be different but, for simplicity, the contact lengths .&dquo;

/~(’~ of Y’fM~~M ., ,
are assumed to be same. lienee, the external
moment is taken as an average of, the two possible
These values apply only when the tension of the
values ~
specimen is zero. Because textile fabrics are not
,

capable of taking any significant compressional

.
,

force, Ùll shear test ~4, 8, 14, 15J have to be*carried

a pro-tension
&dquo;

out jj>ply.ifig in order to delay early

buckling. Therefore, the analysis has to take the ’

.effect of tension into account. ~~

.
Crimp /M~vcA~M~ ’

’ ,

From Equations 8, ~), and 1, the shear force I% and When ptain weave
_
a is in shear fabric pre-loaded
test, the ’first deformation which takes place in’the
the shear ittigle 6 are obtained in term of the arbi-
’
fabric is crimp interchange, which is analogous to
&dquo;,
’

trary slipping parameter a,/<1.

.

I the i’oisson’s effect, in other solid materials. The

mechanism is the bending or crimping of one set
of yarns by stretching or decriiiil)ing of the other
set. ,

Crimp interchange will&dquo; therefore, affect the

whole stress Holds within the fabric. In other
words, normal forces as wen as contact areas at the
intersecting points in the fabric should be in-
tluenced., This would certainly influence to fric-
’tional restraint to the yarns being rotated relative
to one another in shearing. > <,

Downloaded from trj.sagepub.com at UCSF LIBRARY & CKM on May 8, 2014

 424

1
Hass E181, Womersley [32 J and Adams [2
dealt with the crimp interchange mechanism in on ~
j .~?,(j~~c,t of Tension on the &dquo;Deformation of Yarn

form or another, but it was Peirce [29] who treatei ’

Since deformation is small and in the elastic
the problem most successfully in his classical pape
range, the problem can be analyzed using the
.
’on the geometry of cloth structure. The assu’mp ’
approximate expression for the curvature. Con-
sidering the horizontal yarn which is in tension ’
j
tions of Peirce’s analysis are based on certain in
T (Fig. 4)
&dquo;

, .,
due to symmetry, only the right-hand
variant parameters of the fabric structures whicl ’ needs to be analyzed. The bending moment at a
~ result from the assumption that no yarn extensioi ~
and compression takes place. These invariant ~
poi-nt x., y in the reformed position as shown in
’

Figure 4 is ,
&dquo;

’ are, the len’gths between 5rarn spacing 11-t t2’ and th

constant D Ah1 + h¿, the sum of the wav ;
=
,
-

II
.~

T
I
-.1 I
I
-
.1 x ---,
, -
I
I I

.’
amplitudes. The values of I and h are calculate< I where 1=-~ applied tenIsion;’, F--shelr ir~rcc. V’ith
from the observed spacings Pi, PZ and crimp ; the bo~andarv ~rondition~
c

C J, .. , ~ .
’

The basic relatibnships for crimp interchang

’are, thus, as follows : Since the
’
lengths of yarn d,
’

not change, ,
’

,
.

The solution is

I ,

’
,.~1,:·..«
..A l«n T) rnn»inc f’11p Cht7‘1P . ;

_
-
I- I - - I

or
Hence, taking the effect of tension into consider-
,tion, the initial modulus and the contact length as
well as the relationship between shcar force and
_ ,
-
t’ -- A - I --.. - t --.. - , -.&dquo;
shear ’angle can be modified. For instance, tca-
,
~
~

sioning in the direction of the filling results in

where the prime indicates the spacing and the criryy ,
~ thE~ fnllf)B&dquo;’tHT l’nl1:¡tinn~ ’
’

after deformation. It can be seen that, in orde

to maintain constant values of t and D during th<
dimensional change, the fabric . parameters mus
vary in such a way that they all lie on -a straigh
line connecting ~Ci/1 + Ct and ~G’~/1 + &euro;2. Tb!
straight line meets the ’axes where 1 )’(’./1 + C
=-1 (Dll,) and ~G’z/1 + C, = ~ (D f l z~, respectively
By this simple relationship, new values of the
’
increased crimp in the yarn due to de-crimping o
; the other7 set ,cam be determined. From this nev
’, configuration, new normal forces due to the’ in
creased trimp in one set of yarn are- calculated ii
’

accordance with the methods given in the previous

section, and the difference due to crimp inter
change is then added to the’ normal force obtainet
~

’ originally. ,
, .

Crimp interchange would also change the spac

ings P~, P~ of the yarns. This should be taken int4
account when considering force and shear angl~
’

’
’

relationship. ’
-

< ’

I,
, ~

Downloaded from trj.sagepub.com at UCSF LIBRARY & CKM on May 8, 2014

 425

,
, . w
’

Experimental Results and Discussion ,

:l~pcrra~rcs arrcl Testing lllatcrinls

’

’. , ,

, Shear experiments were carried out with an appa-

ratus identical to the one designed hy Behre f 4 1. l~etcrrrtinativ’ra of tlte Coefficient of Friction ‘and the ’
Various constructions of plain weave fal>rics were Normal Forcé ,
~ ,&dquo; ~~
’
,
.

,
,

;~> ,.
prepared under the same warp tension, varying the Tu test the theoretical attalysis, the normal forces
,

number of picks per inch with the same looni width.

at the intersecting points ns well as the coe#1’tcierit~ of
The yarns used in this series of experiments are
friction should l)e evaluated. Applying , Peirce’s
2/22’s cotton yarns in both warp and fi11in~. The of elastic threads which are in the configura-
construction detail of ’all the fabrics are given in analysis
tion of the crimp form in the cloth, the normal forces
Table 1. r111 tests were carried out under, standard
was evaluated. But since the yarns are not purely
,

atmospheric conditions.
,
.
~

clastic .bodies, some part of the crimp is permanently

,

,
,
&dquo;

, ,sct. Hence, thc friction ef the crimp which will

Ii’’

l~c·ndi~rr~~5’ti~f nc~ss and Crirrt~ o f ~’crrti ,

produce a normal force in the cloth was determined

It is clear from the theoretical treatment of shear- 1>y measuring the length recovery of the yarn when
iiig of the plain weave fabrics in the preceding section it is released from the fabric, denoting the fraction of
that the mechanical properties of ’9he varti-stich as the ’elastic’ crimp as 0. The normal forces deter-
bending !-ttifTne~s together with certain fabric param- jnined in this way should be identical in both warp
eters such as hpacings and crimps should 1>e known. and filling, but due to friction in the miset fabrics,
Among many (littereiit methods of evaluatitlg. there were some discrepancies between two values.
,

bending stinness of yarns, it was decided to use the The mean of the two directions was taken as
simple ring loop method as described originally by the normal force V at the cross-over point. , ,

,
1’eirce [6, 27, 2R, .30 I, Tlte deflection of a circular ., By pulling ai yarn out of the fabric, the value of
ring of yarn due to an applied weight is measured by ~l’, the frictional force, was obtained and the coeflir
a travelling microscope, and the value of the bending
,dent of f~ictioii was determined knowing the value
stiffness of the yarn determined using I collnlta- of the normal force
tional method based on the large deflection theory of
previously calculated. The
coefficient of, friction determined in this. way is in
an elastic circular loop as given by Owen [27].
agreement with values determined directly liy Abbott
Later, the value of the bending stinness for the same
yarn was measured 1>y Abbott r 1), who used the
[ 1 ~ for the same yarn. He determined the coefl&dquo;r- ,
.

of friction constructing a simple device in which

apparatus devised by Owen (22 ~ for measuring cloth cient
bending stiffness. Abbott replaced the cloth samlle resistance forces caused by two yarn’s cross-over to
by a large number of parallel yarns’(about 40 yarns). other two ’ yarns at the right angle under variable
’

The two methods give a similar answer. normal forces are’ measured using the Instron. , The
-

Crimp in the yarns removed from thcofabrics was results are shown in Figure , 5. ~ . ,
measured by extrapolating back on the load vs. strain The Increased normal forces at the cross-over
,

’
curves of the crimped yarn from that of the straight
’
.. ’
’
points in cloth due to crimp interchange brought
,

yarn. about 1>y the applied pre-tension were calculated ac-

,

The results obtained in this way are given in cording to the theory given in the section on crimp
Table ~ .

, , interchange. In* this series of experiments, ’ the ’

’
..<
, ~

Downloaded from trj.sagepub.com at UCSF LIBRARY & CKM on May 8, 2014

426
,
.

, applied tensions were 100, 200’,’400 and 600 g per

.

10-cm~ width of sample. From the uniaxial load-

extension tests in the pre-tension levels, the new
&dquo;
values of crimp were ohtained and, based on the
theory of crimp interchange, the values of crimp in
,
the other set of yarn wer 11 determined. The theory
of crimp interchange, of
sumption that there is
course,
nd yarn
is hased on the as-
extension, which is
reasonable at tins low level of applied pre-tension.
,From these new crimp Configuration, the differences
of normal forces arisiiig from crimp interchange due
to’pre-ten’sion from the original crimped configura-
tion were determined, and added to the original
normal force calculated in the previous section.
All these values, as well as. the new spacing,
’
,
ratios due to crimp interchange, are sunujiarized in
~
,
,_ Table II. ,

Iv
Fig, S.
I
TABLE 11.

........-
&dquo; . -- -
- -.~’&dquo;
-..’
I ’.
r
, -1
*
Tension in the warp yarns.
t Tension in the weft varns.

Downloaded from trj.sagepub.com at UCSF LIBRARY & CKM on May 8, 2014

 427

Effect of Tension on Dc f orniation

’

,
contact lengths at cross-over joints in cloth can be
determined..The initial shear modulus was experi-
As described in the section on effect of tension on
the deformation ’0£ yarn, tension applied to the fabrics inentally determined lay shearing the fabric to a
small deflection only so that no hysteresis results
during shearing of the fabric should influence the when the load is removed. ’Over this range a linear
resistance to bending of the yarns. The factor
shear curve is produced from which the modulus can
f ( u ) was determined from the known. geometrical be readily determined. The experiments were car-
length of the beam (the applied tension T per thread, rieel out at 0.1 cm/min of the cross-head speed which
and the hending stiffness B. The factor should
corresponds to 0.4°/min of shearing.
.

contribute only to the beam of yarn which is in tern- ’

,

From the determination of the initial shear modu-

sion. The factors thus calculated at various pre-
11tlS, the effective contact length at the cross-over point
,

tension levels are summarixed iit Table I IT. ,

was calculated according to Equation 3. , The effec-

y ,/ tive contact lengths thus calculated are shown in

TABLE III.
’ ’
’

Figure for the applied tensions of 100 and 600

g her 1 -cm width of fabric. All the obtained con-
*i8t ngths 4t the cross-over joints in fabrics, are
o

’fo d to be between the original yarn diameter which

is measured hy the micro-projection method and that
loof the minor diameter estimated by Peirce. There is
also a tendency for the contact lengths to be shorter
in the tighter fabrics, which is probably due to, the,
yarn*being compressed more by the higher pressure

.
<
I

Fig. 6. ,
<
<
,

.’ ~
, ,

in the tighter fabrics. This tendency has been con,

. : firmed by the extensive micro-photographic study of
the cross section of fabrics due to Gray [ 15 ~ . ’
Upon completion of the initial phase of the experi-
.

’
ments, the suitable shear, force vs, angle diagrams
’

* Tension in the warp yarns, were obtained in the range where no buckling oc- ’
&dquo;

~
t Tension in the wef yarns. >

curred. Some’typical curves as produced directly

from the Instron charts are shown in Figures 7
_

&dquo; ’

and 8. ~
’

.Ej~<’/~ ~’uratnct Length and Slippage ,

It was generally found that the shearing diagrams

According to the theory given in the section on ’ were not symmetrical about the axis, which is prob-
deformation due to rigid intersections, the effective ably’ due’ to the fact that the threads in the .fabric

Downloaded from trj.sagepub.com at UCSF LIBRARY & CKM on May 8, 2014

428

TABLE IV. ,

Downloaded from trj.sagepub.com at UCSF LIBRARY & CKM on May 8, 2014

 429

are aligned at right angle at the start of the ex-

not Considering the many possible sources of ~xperi-‘,
periment. This was corrected hy moving the origin nient£I error, there are, remarkable agreements be-
to the ha~f-lvay poiat of the hysteresis diagram ,on’ tween the. calculated values and the experimental
the shear force. axis, «
, values. &dquo;It is found that when aId 0.8, that is
.
,
=

The shearing force needed to deflect the cloth when 80% of the contact length is slipping, another
through a certaia angle of shear was calculated iroiii mechanism starts to’ take over. Theoretically, the r

equations 10 and 1’. Some typical calculated values’ graph should become horizontal, i.e., no further force
>

are compared with experimentally obtained shear is required when aId is unity. This is not the case
.
curves in Figures 9 and 10. And the wlxole calcu- and the deviation arises from the fact that a, cloth
&dquo;

lated values for eight fabrics at four different pre- is not a sirnple trellis; The further shearing of the.
tension levels are tabulated against the experimental cloth when ald is unity results in the slipping of
valuers in Table IV. the yarns at the intersections.’ In a plain trellis;
,

TABLE IV.---(C;nnGint~ecl)

~ete: ald- frit(-ti )ii of ~,lil)l).ige’; 0 shear

force in ~rams;&horbar;&horbar; vaiucnotobtainahtc.
aiigic in df~rcc~; I’ -I)re(licte(i shear forces in
,
’
’
’
~rams; E&horbar;experimeuta! shear
.
.

Note: a/~--fraction of 4lipi),ige; 0-shear angle iii decrees; /~&horbar;predicted shear forces iia
’
granis j jB&horbar;experimenml
°
shear
force in graiiis; -value not 6btitiiiable. &dquo;’
,
.
,
, 1

Downloaded from trj.sagepub.com at UCSF LIBRARY & CKM on May 8, 2014

 430 v
~
’
..
, ~ ; .

noticed that, in the tightest fabric ( CA-1 ) , these

tende~ncies appear much earlier, at ahout a/d 0.6 =

and, therefore, the calculated shear forces a/d ~ at

~ D.8 are less than the actual
values, while in the
most open fabric (CA-6), the calculated shear forces ’
’_

are greater than the actual values. , ,

,&dquo; ’ -
Conclusions &dquo;’

The simple mechanisms of deformation proposed

&dquo;
for the initial shearing characteristics of the plain
weave fabrics are shown to explain the shearing
,

behavior of these woven fabrics. The hysteresis pro-

d-liced during shearing are determined wholly by the
frictional. restraint arising in rotation’ of the yarn at
the intersecting points in the fabric. It is also found
that the effective’ contact lengths at the intersectiilg
,points in the fabric can be determined from the initial
modulus of shear. Tlie, initial shear behavior can
thus 1>e determined from the know n mechanical prop-
erties’ of yarn and the geometrical parameters of the
°

’
fabric.
Fig. 9. ’ ’
’

,
.

,
Acknowledgment ,

< &dquo;
’

Acknowledgment is due to International Wool

Secretariat for supporting. this program of research,
and thanks are also due to I)r. K. 1 Iep~B’orth for his
helpful suggestions and to Mr. P. IIarrison for his
,, part in constructing the test’ equipment.
> <
, ’ .

>

Appendix I
There are various ways of allow ing for the partial
-

;
set in the fabric. Olofsson [26~ has proposed that
’
the radius of curvature at eitch point of the bent
yarn has’ a ’set’ value which is a fixed fraction of
the actual curvature. I le then deduced that, for
,
a cloth in which the length of yarn does not alter

during setting. The factor 0 required for equation ’

5 is uiven bv

BBhere 9o and
Co are the 4we~~ve1 angles and crimps
’
of the thread which has been removed froiii the
’

,
Fig. 10.
’

cloth and 9 and C are the corresponding values in

~

the cloth. (See Equation 32 in reference 26.)

this would . require no extra force, but in a rea The method adopted in this paper of simply multi-
fabtic, the Intersection of the bent yarns require; plying V by the fraction of crimp released when the
further bending of the yarns even when the yarn: y-arri is taken from the cloth gives very similar
are slipping. ’ This is a natural corollary of th~ answers.’ It is, however, felt that, although ’there
shape of the space curve taken up by the yarns an( are objections to both. methods of c’alculation, this
will be considered in a later publication. It can bj is not very important since the actual value of IA V ’ ’ ’

’
. 1 ’
.

Downloaded from trj.sagepub.com at UCSF LIBRARY & CKM on May 8, 2014

 431
. , ....... ,

has been independently determined and at all other .

3. Backer, S. an<l’I)etterson, D. it, Textile Res. J. 30,
704(1960). ol
. .

parts of thc, calculations when is, needed errors ,

’ ’ ’

4. Bchre, B., ~’c:~-lilc. li es. J. 31, 89 ( 19b1 )

i n lE’ are, of relatively little importance. ,

’,5. I3re~~t~er, F. C. and Chen, C. S., Textile T~’cs..J.’34&dquo;

B>
’ ’
’
50~ ( 19b4 ) ... ,
’

Appendix II
&dquo;

ti: Carlene, ’P. W., J. Textile Inst. 41, T159 (1950).

The shear angle 0 produced by the applied shear 7. Chadwick, Shorter, and Wessinberg, J. Textile In.st. ’ ,

40, Tl 11 ( 1949 )
’

a
~’
force l~ has to take two components into account, ,,

8. Cusick, G., J. Textilc.ln.st. 52, T395 (‘1961 ). ,

1e,, one which is due to deformation of yarn based 9. Cusick, ,Cx:, ~ I’h.D. Thesis, Manchester Univ., i9f2,
on the linearly increased bending moment unto the ,
(M.I.T. Summer Course, 1964). ,
,

slipped boundary and the other component which 10. ~’,usick, G., Textile Res. J. 34, 1102 (19(A). >

is due to deformation in the opposite direction due 11. Davidson, D. A., U. S. Gov. report ASD-T‘DR-63-’ ’ ’
,

to’ the frictional restraint in the slipped region. 485, 1963. ,. ,

, 12. Davidson, D. A., U. S. Gov. Report 1~2L-~’DR-64.-~

The former component is simply the Equation 1 ’

239, 1964.
in which, the ternt of the slippage a/W is introduced. 13. Dreby, E. C., Airrer’..l7yestt,8’ ,Rcptr. 30, 651 ( 1941 ).
,
f
,

That is, .

14. Go, Y., Shinohara, ’Matsubashi, J. Soc. Textile Gell.

l~nf. Japan, 12, 563 (1956), 13, 148 (1957), 13, 460
(1957, 13, G73 ’ (1957).
’

,
.
;
,

15. Gray, M.Sc. Thesis, Leeds University, 1953. ,

16. Grosberg, P, and Kedia, S., Textile Res. J, 36

’
,
(1966).< .. °
,
,
,

17. Grosherg, P., Textile

’.

(1966). Res. J. 36 ~

The latter compo°net is found considering the dis- 18. Hass, R. and Dictzius, Ii.,’ NACA Report 16,
3rd
tribution of bending moment in the slipped region. Annual Rep., 1912.. ’ , ,

The local curvature of the point x is (1-’ig’ 3) 19. Kilbya W. F., Textile Res. J. 31, 72 ( 19G1 )..
20. Kilby, W. F., J. Textile Inst. 54, T9 (1963)..
21. Lindberg, J.; Behre, B., and Dahlberg, B., Textile
Res. J, 31, 99 (1961)...
,
,
.

v 22. Livesey, OB~’en, J. Textile Inst. 55, T516 :(~964)... &dquo;

Integrating twice, the deflection at c =

a/2 is ’ 23. l~lack,~ C. and Taylor, H. M., J. Textile Inst. 47,
I ., ’

T477 (1956),, ’ ’

24. MeHen, D, M., Backer, S., and Park,’ B. J., WADD ’

Technical Rep. 60-311 P9(0). ’..’ &dquo; ,

Since the deformations are very small, the two 25. Nliirncr, B. and Ecg-Olon’ason, Textilc Res. J. 27, °
’
’

611 (1957)1
’

’
substractive. Hence the ’
I
components are simply ,

26. Olofsson, B., J. rextile Inst. 55, T541 (1964).

_

shear angle 0 is II 27., Oven, J. D. and, Riding, G., Ji ’ Textile, I nst. 55,
~T414 (1964). ,

But it was found that the second component was

, 28. Peirce, B. T.,
J. Text. Inst. 21, T377 (1930). ,

29. Peirce, F. T.,’J. Textile Inst. 28, T45 (i937). / ’

quite negligible for the practical purpose.
30. Swani, N. M., ~1’h.L). Thesis, Leeds Univ., 1964.
-
I

Literature Cited , 31. Topping.

A. T)., ~~(M-c Eng. 20, 18-19,, 53-57
’&dquo;
’
’

,
f I (1961). <

.
1. Abbott, G. l,ee(Is University. 32. Woniersley, J. R., J. Textile Inst. 28, T97 ( 1937 ) . ,

2. Adams, D.’ P.. Schwarz, E. R. Backer, S., 7~.<-/~ ’

~.y. 7. 26, 653 (1956)... hlunuscript received August 20, 1965. ’

’

~ .

Downloaded from trj.sagepub.com at UCSF LIBRARY & CKM on May 8, 2014