The Five Causes of Engine Ticking Noise At Idle Acceleration And After Oil Change

A car engine is bound to make noises. After all, there are so many moving components and parts inside
of an engine as it is running. Most of these noises are not very loud and they are nothing to worry about.
But there are times when engine noises will sound a bit unusual or strange.

A good example of this is when there is a ticking noise coming from the engine. A ticking sound could be
caused by any number of reasons, such as a low level of oil or loose components. You may hear a
ticking, clicking, or tapping noise while the vehicle is idling, accelerating, or even after receiving an oil
change. To understand what the actual problem is, you must understand the signs to look out for.

Table of Contents

Common Causes of an Engine Ticking Noise

Below are the top 5 reasons your engine is making a ticking sound:

#1 – Bad Reciprocating Components

<img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-503199" src="https://cartreatments.com/wp-
content/uploads/2019/01/bad-piston-ring-valve-seals.jpg" alt="symptoms of bad piston rings and valve
seals" width="720" height="405" srcset="https://cartreatments.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/bad-
piston-ring-valve-seals.jpg 720w, https://cartreatments.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/bad-piston-ring-
valve-seals-100x56.jpg 100w, https://cartreatments.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/bad-piston-ring-
valve-seals-200x112.jpg 200w" sizes="(max-width: 720px) 100vw, 720px" />

When there is a ticking noise in the engine and it concerns a particular component, then it will usually be
a reciprocating component that is to blame and not a rotating component. Some examples of
reciprocating components include pushrods, pistons, and valves.

If any of these components were to become worn out, damaged, or go bad for whatever reason, you will
begin to hear ticking noises. If you don’t replace these components in a timely manner, the ticking noises
may progress into a whining or clunking noise.

#2 – Low Amount of Engine Oil

<img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-503344" src="https://cartreatments.com/wp-
content/uploads/2019/01/check-engine-oil.jpg" alt="check engine oil" width="720" height="378"
srcset="https://cartreatments.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/check-engine-oil.jpg 720w,
https://cartreatments.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/check-engine-oil-100x53.jpg 100w" sizes="(max-
width: 720px) 100vw, 720px" />

When you have a low level of oil in your engine, this will cause the components of the valvetrain to cause
ticking sounds because the components are not being lubricated enough. The reason for low engine oil
could be due to a leak somewhere.

Perhaps you have damaged or worn out gaskets or seals. Either way, you will
know if you have low engine oil because your engine will start to overheat. It needs the oil to cool it off.
Therefore, if you hear ticking sounds in addition to any of these other symptoms, then it’s likely due to
your vehicle being low on oil.

#3 – Rod Knocking
<img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-503343" src="https://cartreatments.com/wp-
content/uploads/2019/01/rod-knock.jpg" alt="rod knock" width="720" height="378"
srcset="https://cartreatments.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/rod-knock.jpg 720w,
https://cartreatments.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/rod-knock-100x53.jpg 100w" sizes="(max-width:
720px) 100vw, 720px" />

If the bearing attached to the rod has gone bad, then the rod will knock around and cause a ticking
sound. This happens if you have a worn out bearing because it will cause the rod to move.

There won’t be any temperature changes to the engine, but the RPM of the engine will change. The only
real solution to fixing the rod knocking problem would be to rebuild your entire motor, which is obviously
going to be expensive. But it will have to be done sooner or later.

#4 – Fuel Injectors Firing

This will be the best-case scenario for engine ticking. Certain model cars with a fuel injection system will
have ticking sounds whenever the fuel injectors start firing.

This is basically the valves of the injectors that are quickly opening and closing in order to allow the
proper fuel amount to enter the internal combustion chamber. This sound is nothing to worry about and is
part of the normal operation of your vehicle.

#5 – Valves Not Adjusted

<img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-503342" src="https://cartreatments.com/wp-
content/uploads/2019/01/valves.jpg" alt="valves" width="720" height="357"
srcset="https://cartreatments.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/valves.jpg 720w,
https://cartreatments.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/valves-100x50.jpg 100w" sizes="(max-width:
720px) 100vw, 720px" />

A valve train that is not adjusted will cause ticking sounds. This is often the cause of these sounds, so
you might want to check this first.

When your engine spins a couple of times, the valves open and close. There is something called a
rocker arm which is responsible for opening and closing the valves. The camshaft has a pushrod which
controls the rocker arm and it needs to be the precise distance from the valve.

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This is especially true because the valves move so fast and at a short distance. If the adjustments are
not exactly right, then the components will move around and cause the ticking sounds.

Drivetrain
Top 5 Causes of Wheel Bearing Noise (and What it Sounds
Like)
 <img width="350" height="197"
src="https://cartreatments.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/wheel-bearing-noise-1.jpg"
class="attachment-350x9999 size-350x9999" alt="wheel bearing noise" itemprop="image"
srcset="https://cartreatments.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/wheel-bearing-noise-1.jpg 720w,
https://cartreatments.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/wheel-bearing-noise-1-100x56.jpg 100w,
https://cartreatments.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/wheel-bearing-noise-1-200x112.jpg 200w"
sizes="(max-width: 350px) 100vw, 350px" />

Wheel bearing noise can be tricky to diagnose since it can easily be mistaken for tire noise. Even when a
noisy wheel bearing is the actual culprit, it can be difficult to narrow it down to which wheel is affected
The main purpose of wheel bearing is to allow the wheels to rotate with minimal … Read more

4 Different Types of Differentials (and How They Work)

<img width="350" height="197"

src="https://cartreatments.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/types-of-differentials.jpg" class="attachment-
350x9999 size-350x9999" alt="types of vehicle differentials" itemprop="image"
srcset="https://cartreatments.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/types-of-differentials.jpg 720w,
https://cartreatments.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/types-of-differentials-100x56.jpg 100w,
https://cartreatments.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/types-of-differentials-200x112.jpg 200w"
sizes="(max-width: 350px) 100vw, 350px" />

Differentials have a long history which many say go all the way back to the 1st millennium BC and
recorded by China. While they didn’t have cars back then, chariots, wagons, and carts still experienced
the problem of wheels slipping and dragging when cornering which damaged wheels, axles, and roads.
The avoid this, a simple … Read more

Front and Rear Differential Repair and Fluid Change Cost

 <img width="350" height="197"
src="https://cartreatments.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/differential-repair-cost.jpg"
class="attachment-350x9999 size-350x9999" alt="differential repair cost" itemprop="image"
srcset="https://cartreatments.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/differential-repair-cost.jpg 720w,
https://cartreatments.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/differential-repair-cost-100x56.jpg 100w,
https://cartreatments.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/differential-repair-cost-200x112.jpg 200w"
sizes="(max-width: 350px) 100vw, 350px" />

A vehicle’s differential (or diff), whether front (FWD), rear (RWD), or both (AWD), helps deliver power to
the axle(s) and regulates how fast each wheel rotates. Like any other component of a drivetrain,
differential problems may arise over time. Because the issues can be anything from replacing a seal to a
complete rebuild or replacement, … Read more

5 Symptoms of a Bad CV Joint and Replacement Cost

<img width="350" height="197"

src="https://cartreatments.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/5-symptoms-of-bad-cv-joint-in-the-car.jpg"
class="attachment-350x9999 size-350x9999" alt="symptoms of bad CV joint and axle" itemprop="image"
srcset="https://cartreatments.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/5-symptoms-of-bad-cv-joint-in-the-car.jpg
720w, https://cartreatments.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/5-symptoms-of-bad-cv-joint-in-the-car-
200x112.jpg 200w, https://cartreatments.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/5-symptoms-of-bad-cv-joint-
in-the-car-100x56.jpg 100w" sizes="(max-width: 350px) 100vw, 350px" />

The function of constant-velocity joints, or CV joints, in a vehicle is to help transfer power to the wheels
from your transmission. Power is transmitted at a consistent speed of rotation when there isn’t much
friction. In other words, power from the engine is transferred smoothly to the wheels of the vehicle, no
matter the … Read more
Causes of Drive Shaft Noise when Turning, Braking and
Reverse

<img width="350" height="197"

src="https://cartreatments.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/drive-shaft-noise-when-turning-braking-and-
reverse.jpg" class="attachment-350x9999 size-350x9999" alt="" itemprop="image"
srcset="https://cartreatments.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/drive-shaft-noise-when-turning-braking-
and-reverse.jpg 720w, https://cartreatments.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/drive-shaft-noise-when-
turning-braking-and-reverse-200x113.jpg 200w, https://cartreatments.com/wp-
content/uploads/2018/03/drive-shaft-noise-when-turning-braking-and-reverse-100x56.jpg 100w"
sizes="(max-width: 350px) 100vw, 350px" />

The job of the drive shaft is to transfer the rotational energy of the engine from the differentials or
gearbox to your vehicle’s wheels. You will normally see drive shafts being used in vehicles that have
rear-wheel drive. The back of the transmission has a rotating output shaft which then rotates the
driveshaft that is … Read more

Top 4 Causes of Noise and Vibration in Wheels Areas

<img width="350" height="197"

src="https://cartreatments.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/noise-and-vibration-in-wheel-area.jpg"
class="attachment-350x9999 size-350x9999" alt="" itemprop="image"
srcset="https://cartreatments.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/noise-and-vibration-in-wheel-area.jpg
720w, https://cartreatments.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/noise-and-vibration-in-wheel-area-
200x113.jpg 200w, https://cartreatments.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/noise-and-vibration-in-wheel-
area-100x56.jpg 100w" sizes="(max-width: 350px) 100vw, 350px" />

The most common car problems that you will have will revolve around your tires in some way. For most
people, this means having either flat tires or low tire pressure. But the most extreme tire problems will be
when they start making strange noises and vibrations while you’re driving on the road at low and … Read
more

Top 5 Causes of Engine Hesitation at Idle, When Cold and

Under Load

<img width="350" height="197"

src="https://cartreatments.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/the-causes-of-engine-hesitation.jpg"
class="attachment-350x9999 size-350x9999" alt="" itemprop="image"
srcset="https://cartreatments.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/the-causes-of-engine-hesitation.jpg
720w, https://cartreatments.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/the-causes-of-engine-hesitation-
200x113.jpg 200w, https://cartreatments.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/the-causes-of-engine-
hesitation-100x56.jpg 100w" sizes="(max-width: 350px) 100vw, 350px" />

When there is engine hesitation, this means that it cannot generate enough power to move the vehicle.
This can happen when you’re idle, when there are cold temperatures outside, or when you’re carrying a
heavy load. If the car is moving while this happens, it can be quite dangerous because the hesitation can
be inconsistent … Read more

5 Types of Constant-Velocity (CV) Joints

<img width="350" height="197"

src="https://cartreatments.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/types-of-cv-joint.jpg" class="attachment-
350x9999 size-350x9999" alt="" itemprop="image" srcset="https://cartreatments.com/wp-
content/uploads/2017/10/types-of-cv-joint.jpg 720w, https://cartreatments.com/wp-
content/uploads/2017/10/types-of-cv-joint-200x112.jpg 200w, https://cartreatments.com/wp-
content/uploads/2017/10/types-of-cv-joint-100x56.jpg 100w" sizes="(max-width: 350px) 100vw, 350px" />
The function of constant-velocity joints, or CV joints, in a vehicle is to let power be transferred to the
wheels from the transmission. Power is transmitted at a consistent speed of rotation while there is not
much friction. You will find CV joints in virtually all front-wheel drive vehicles and most newer rear-wheel
drive vehicles … Read more

How Often to Change Front & Rear Differential Fluid

<img width="350" height="197"

src="https://cartreatments.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/How-often-differential-oil-change.jpg"
class="attachment-350x9999 size-350x9999" alt="" itemprop="image"
srcset="https://cartreatments.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/How-often-differential-oil-change.jpg
720w, https://cartreatments.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/How-often-differential-oil-change-
200x112.jpg 200w, https://cartreatments.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/How-often-differential-oil-
change-100x56.jpg 100w" sizes="(max-width: 350px) 100vw, 350px" />

Differentials are found in all cars. Sometimes a differential may be found on the rear side of a vehicle and
sometimes it’s found on the front side. Some cars even have differentials on both ends. If you have a
front differential in your car with a transaxle built in, then the rear differential will use … Read more

Limited Slip Differential vs Locking Differential

<img width="350" height="197"

src="https://cartreatments.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/Limited-slip-differential.jpg"
class="attachment-350x9999 size-350x9999" alt="" itemprop="image"
srcset="https://cartreatments.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/Limited-slip-differential.jpg 720w,
https://cartreatments.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/Limited-slip-differential-200x112.jpg 200w,
https://cartreatments.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/Limited-slip-differential-100x56.jpg 100w"
sizes="(max-width: 350px) 100vw, 350px" />
Locking differentials and limited-slip differentials both serve similar functions, but they also have some
differences as well. They both get installed onto the axles of a car in order to give the wheels better
traction while enduring rough environments, like dirt roads, which can cause one of the wheels to spin
and break traction. If … Read more

Drivetrain
Functions of a Propeller Shaft and Symptoms of Failure

<img width="350" height="197"

src="https://cartreatments.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/Propheller-shaft.jpg" class="attachment-
350x9999 size-350x9999" alt="" itemprop="image" srcset="https://cartreatments.com/wp-
content/uploads/2016/04/Propheller-shaft.jpg 720w, https://cartreatments.com/wp-
content/uploads/2016/04/Propheller-shaft-200x112.jpg 200w, https://cartreatments.com/wp-
content/uploads/2016/04/Propheller-shaft-100x56.jpg 100w" sizes="(max-width: 350px) 100vw, 350px" />

A vehicle with rear drive type should have a propeller to move a vehicle. And in this post we will discuss
about the main functions of propeller shaft and the main symptoms of failing propeller shaft. Main
functions of a propeller shaft The propeller shaft is what makes any vehicle move by connecting the rear
… Read more

The Differences Between Semi-Floating vs Full Floating

Axles

<img width="350" height="197"

src="https://cartreatments.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/Full-Floating-Axle.jpg" class="attachment-
350x9999 size-350x9999" alt="" itemprop="image" srcset="https://cartreatments.com/wp-
content/uploads/2016/02/Full-Floating-Axle.jpg 800w, https://cartreatments.com/wp-
content/uploads/2016/02/Full-Floating-Axle-200x112.jpg 200w, https://cartreatments.com/wp-
content/uploads/2016/02/Full-Floating-Axle-100x56.jpg 100w, https://cartreatments.com/wp-
content/uploads/2016/02/Full-Floating-Axle-768x432.jpg 768w" sizes="(max-width: 350px) 100vw,
350px" />

The wheels of any vehicle would not be able to rotate without certain components called axles. There are
two possible locations for where these axles could be installed. They are either installed on the body of
the vehicle or on the wheels. Either way, they allow the wheels to rotate so that the driver can … Read
more

Engine Failure
Tracking Down The Causes of Engine Failure, Copyright AA1Car.com
An engine failure is always bad news. Besides taking away your wheels, it forces you to make a painful financial
decision. If the cost to repair, overhaul or replace the engine is more than the resale value of your car or truck, the
investment may not be worth it. But if your vehicle is in good condition otherwise, repairing or replacing the engine
may be less expense than trading for another used vehicle (always a gamble), or taking on payments for a new car
or truck.

Assuming you have gotten past the initial trauma and has decided in favor of fixing the engine, you have to figure
out why the engine failed so the repaired engine (or replacement engine) won't suffer the same fate.

A good place to start your postmortem is to review the circumstances that preceded the failure. Sometimes failures
occur unexpectedly. One minute the engine is running fine and your keeping up with traffic, and the next you're
sitting along side the road with the hood up wondering what happened. In most instances, though, there is ample
warning that something is amiss long before the engine actually fails.

Unusual engine noises, low oil pressure, engine overheating, loss of power, misfiring, hard starting and similar
driveability and performance complaints can all be indications of problems that need attention. The underlying
cause may be something minor or major. There is no way to know unless somebody checks it out. If a motorist
ignores such warnings long enough, it can be a very costly mistake because eventually the engine may succumb to
whatever is causing the problem, which is a classic example of the famous preventive maintenance line, "You can
pay me now or you can pay me later."

Causes of Engine Failure

The major causes of engine failures can be lumped into four basic categories:

 Overheating (excessive heat)

 Lubrication (or the lack thereof)
 Detonation (Spark Knock )(Detonation)
 Misassembly (opps!)

ENGINE OVERHEATING

Overheating can be caused by any number of things. It is often the result of coolant loss or a low coolant level,
which is turn may be due to leaks in hoses, the radiator or the engine itself. A weak radiator cap that leaks pressure
can allow coolant to escape from the system. Not getting the cooling system completely filled after changing the
antifreeze can allow steam pockets to form that make the engine overheat or run hot. An electric cooling fan that
fails to come on due to a faulty thermostat, relay, wiring or motor may be an overlooked cause of overheating. So
too can a slipping fan clutch. Even a missing fan shroud that reduces the fan's effectiveness may be a contributing
factor.

Another common cause of overheating is a faulty thermostat. When most thermostats fail, they do so in the closed
position preventing the flow of coolant from the engine to the radiator. Replacing the thermostat will obviously
solve the problem, but may not prevent the same thing from happening again at some point in the future. So you
might want to install a "fail-safe" type of thermostat that still allows some coolant flow in the event of failure.

Less obvious causes of overheating can include a clogged radiator that is filled with sediment as a result of coolant
neglect, corrosion or using excessively hard water. Incorrect ignition timing and/or a lean fuel mixture (which may
be due to air leaks, low fuel pressure, etc.) can also elevate normal operating temperatures. An exhaust restriction
(typically a clogged catalytic converter) can also make the engine work harder causing it to run hot.

Too much heat in an engine can cause serious problems because heat causes metal to expand. The hotter the engine
gets, the tighter clearances become until there are no more clearances left. Overheating can cause valve stems to
gall and stick, and pistons to scuff and seize. So if you see either of these conditions when you tear the engine
down, it is a pretty good clue that overheating caused the engine to fail.

Excessive heat can also cause cylinder heads to swell, warp and/or crack. Ford 2.9L heads are notorious for
cracking because the thin wall castings can't take the heat. Other heads that often crack include those on Ford 1.5L
& 1.6L Escorts, Ford 2.3L and 2.5L, General Motors 2.5L, GM 250 six-cylinder heads with integral exhaust
manifolds, and 1987 and later Chevy small block V8 "Vortex" heads.

Aluminum heads are especially vulnerable to warpage and cracking because aluminum has a much higher
coefficient of thermal expansion than cast iron. Consequently, when a bimetal engine with an aluminum head gets
too hot, the head tends to swell up in the middle, causing it to warp and blow the head gasket. If the engine has an
overhead cam, the resulting misalignment in the cam bores created by the warpage can gall or seize the cam
bearings, or even break the cam. Anytime you encounter a warped or cracked aluminum head, or an OHC head with
a seized cam, chances are the damage was caused by overheating.

In some engines where the center exhaust ports are siamesed together, hot spots can develop in the head between
the exhaust ports causing the head to swell so much it crushes the head gasket resulting in a blown head gasket.
Replacing the head gasket may temporarily solve the compression problem, but unless the underlying cause of the
elevated exhaust temperature is diagnosed and corrected, the replacement gasket may eventually suffer the same
fate. Some aftermarket gasket manufacturers have gone so far as to develop special reinforced replacement gaskets
for engine applications that have a history of crushing gaskets.

One such example is Honda 1.3 & 1.5L engines in 1984-87 Honda Civics. These engines will often blow the head
gasket if the engine overheats because the head has a natural hot spot between cylinders #2 and #3. On these
engines, each cylinder has a precombustion chamber. The precombustion chambers for the two center cylinders are
located back to back. The exhaust valves are also right next to one another, and coolant flow is also limited in this
area. So if anything happens to make the head run hotter than usual, thermal expansion between the cylinders in the
head can crush the head gasket causing the gasket to leak or burn through. The underlying cause may be anything
from a coolant leak to an EGR or detonation problem, or even preignition caused by spark plugs that are too hot.
The fix is to replace the OEM head gasket with a special reinforced head gasket made by Fel-Pro for these engines.

ENGINE FAILURE CAUSED BY LUBRICATION PROBLEMS

Every engine needs oil between its moving parts not only to reduce friction but also to carry away heat. Oil is the
primary means by which the rod and main bearings are cooled, as well as the pistons. So any reduction in oil flow
may cause these parts to run hot, gall and seize.

Low oil pressure is often a contributing factor in engine failures. The underlying cause may be a worn oil pump
and/or excessive clearances in the main and rod bearings as a result of high mileage wear or neglect (not changing
the oil and filter often enough).

Oil starvation is almost always fatal to any engine, and is usually the result of a failed oil pump, a plugged oil
pickup screen inside the oil pan, or a low oil level. Bearings that have been damaged as a result of insufficient
lubrication will be shiny and worn where the crankshaft journal wiped away the bearing material.

Overhead cam engines are even more vulnerable to oil starvation and low oil pressure problems than pushrod
engines because the cam and valvetrain are farther from the pump. When an OHC engine is first started, it takes
awhile for oil pressure to reach the cam bearings. If the oil viscosity is too heavy (especially during cold weather), it
may delay the arrival of oil long enough to starve and seize the cam. For this reason, most vehicle manufacturers
recommend using a 5W-30 oil in late model OHC engines year round, but especially during cold weather. Refilling
the crankcase with the recommended viscosity oil can prevent a reoccurrance of this type of failure.

If you suspect engine damage may have been caused by a low oil level, check the dipstick to see how much oil is in
the pan. A low oil level may be the result of neglect, oil leakage and/or oil burning.

Oil-fouled spark plugs and a heavy buildup of black wet deposits on the backs of the intake valves and in the
combustion chambers would tell you the engine had been using oil. Oil usually enters the combustion chamber past
worn valve guides and seals, and also past worn or broken piston rings and worn cylinders. Worn valve guides can
sometimes be knurled to reduce clearances, but usually it requires installing new guides, guide liners or valves with
oversized stems.

Installing new valve guide seals can often reduce oil burning dramatically. An engine that sucks a quart of oil every
few hundred miles may be able to go several thousand miles without using any oil with a new set of valve guide
seals.

Any evidence of oil leakage around the front or rear crankshaft seal, pan gasket, valve cover gasket or other gaskets,
would tell you new gaskets and seals are needed. Most of these gaskets and seals will have to be replaced anyway if
you are opening up the engine.

Bearings ruined by dirty oil will have foreign material embedded in the surface and/or be scored by debris. Check
for a plugged oil filter and/or a missing air filter or oil filler or breather cap. The underlying cause here may be not
changing the oil often enough.

Piston damage caused by detonation.

ENGINE FAILURE CAUSED BY DETONATION

Detonation (Spark Knock ) is a form of abnormal combustion that results from too much heat and pressure in the
combustion chamber. The fuel ignites spontaneously causing a sudden rise in cylinder pressure. The result is a
sharp hammer-like blow on the piston that produces a metallic knocking or pinging noise. Light detonation is
considered normal and should not cause any damage, but heavy or prolonged detonation can crack rings, pound out
piston ring grooves, punch holes through the tops of pistons, smash rod bearings and blow head gaskets.

Detonation is sometimes confused with preignition, which is altogether different. Preignition occurs when a hot
spot inside the combustion chamber ignites the fuel before the spark does. The hot spot may be an overheated
exhaust valve, a spark plug that is too hot or even a sharp edge in the combustion chamber itself. Such hot spots can
be caused by anything that makes the engine run hotter than normal or inhibits normal cooling (such as a buildup of
carbon deposits). A hot exhaust valve may be the result of insufficient valve lash, a weak valve spring, excessive
wear of the valve stem or guide, or retarded ignition timing. Preignition can be a contributing factor in detonation.

Detonation can have numerous causes. One of the most common ones is loss of EGR. The exhaust gas recirculation
system dilutes the air/fuel mixture slightly to lower combustion temperatures when the engine is under load. This
reduces the formation of oxides of nitrogen (NOX) and also helps prevent detonation. So anytime you find evidence
of detonation damage, be sure to check the operation of the EGR valve and system.

Other causes of detonation include excessive compression, elevated engine operating temperature, preignition,
overadvanced ignition timing (spark knock), lean fuel mixture, spark plugs that have too hot a heat range for the
application, low octane fuel, and even bad driving habits such as lugging the engine excessively with a manual
transmission.

If you find detonation damage in an engine and discover a heavy accumulation of deposits in the combustion
chamber, it may be the result of a rich fuel mixture and/or oil burning. Frequent short trip driving can also
accelerate deposit formation. Black, oily deposits in the combustion chambers and on the backs of the intake valves
would point to worn valve guides and seals as the underlying cause. Black dry carbon deposits should lead you to
check for conditions that may be causing the fuel mixture to run rich (a bad oxygen sensor, a defective coolant
sensor that keeps the computer in open loop, excessive fuel pressure in a fuel injected engine, etc.).

Detonation may also be a problem if someone has done a performance tune on the engine computer and gotten the
spark timing over advanced and/or the fuel mixture too lean. Either condition may result in detonation when the
engine is under heavy load or accelerating hard. A performance tune may void the vehicle powertrain warranty (see
GM Duramax Diesel Warranty Issues for more information on this subject).

ENGINE FAILURE DUE TO MISASSEMBLY

You can probably ignore misassembly as a factor in a high mileage engine failure. But in a newly rebuilt engine or
a low mileage failure, it should certainly be considered as a possibility. Some common mistakes to look for:

 Incorrect engine bearing clearances (too tight or too loose). Galling or seizure would tell you bearing
clearances were too tight, while fatigue failure would point to excessive clearances.

 Insufficient Valve-to-Piston Clearance, or Piston-to-Cylinder clearance. Not checking clearances may result
in valves hitting pistons (especially with high lift cams or rocker arms) or pistons sticking in cylinders.

 Incorrect torque on critical fasteners like head bolts, rod and main bearing cap bolts, etc. Head bolts should
always be lightly lubricated with 30W engine coil prior to installation, and then torque in the proper
sequence to the vehicle manufacturer specifications. Too much torque can crush the head gasket while too
little torque or uneven torque can lead to leaks. Too much torque on rod and main bearing cap bolts may
crush or deform bearings, or cause the bolts to fail.

 Misalignment. If the center main bearings show much greater wear than the end bearings, the crankshaft
may be bent or the main bores may be misaligned. The underlying condition must be corrected by
straightening or replacing the crank and/or align boring the block. The same applies to camshafts and cam
bearings (pushrod & OHC).

 Failure to clean parts properly during engine assembly (not scrubbing out the cylinder bores with soap and
water to remove debris and honing residue after they have been bored or honed, for example). Any junk that
is left in the engine can scour bearings and wear surfaces.

 Failure to lubricate parts properly during engine assembly. Camshaft lobes require a high pressure engine
assembly lube that will stay put until the engine is started and oil reaches the cam. Bearings and cylinders
also need to be coated with oil or assembly lube to prevent a dry start. A special break-in oil is
recommended for the initial engine startup to help seat the rings.
 New Motor Oils Are Bad for Older Engines with Flat Tappet Camshafts

The lobes on this 289 Ford Mustang flat tappet cam suffered excessive wear because the motor oil did not contain
adequate levels of ZDDP anti-scuff additive.

If you are driving an older classic muscle car or hot rod that has an engine with a flat tappet camshaft, you should
be aware of the fact that today's "SM" rated motor oils contain much lower levels of anti-scuff additive called
"ZDDP" (Zinc Dialkyl Dithio Phosphate). The level of ZDDP in current motor oils has been reduced to no more
than 0.08% phosphorus to extend the life of the catalytic converter. Phosphorus can contaminate the catalyst over
time if the engine uses oil, causing an increase in tailpipe emissions.

The lower ZDDP content is not harmful to late model engines with roller lifters or followers because the loads are
much lower on the camshaft lobes. But on pushrod engines with flat tappet cams, the level of ZDDP may be
inadequate to prevent cam lobe and lifter wear. In some cases, cam failures have occurred in as little as a few
thousand miles of driving! This is even more of a risk in engines if stiffer valve springs and/or higher lift rocker
arms are used.

To avoid such problems, you should add a ZDDP additive to the crankcase, or use an oil that meets the previous
"SL" service rating, or use diesel motor oil or racing oil that contains adequate levels of ZDDP to protect the
camshaft and lifters.

If you are installing a new camshaft in the engine, be sure to use the cam manufacturers assembly lube and follow
the recommended break-in procedure. But you will still need to add ZDDP to the crankcase or use an oil that
contains adequate levels of ZDDP for continued protection.
 Engine Failure
Tracking Down The Causes of Engine Failure, Copyright AA1Car.com
An engine failure is always bad news. Besides taking away your wheels, it forces you to make a painful financial
decision. If the cost to repair, overhaul or replace the engine is more than the resale value of your car or truck, the
investment may not be worth it. But if your vehicle is in good condition otherwise, repairing or replacing the engine
may be less expense than trading for another used vehicle (always a gamble), or taking on payments for a new car
or truck.

Assuming you have gotten past the initial trauma and has decided in favor of fixing the engine, you have to figure
out why the engine failed so the repaired engine (or replacement engine) won't suffer the same fate.

A good place to start your postmortem is to review the circumstances that preceded the failure. Sometimes failures
occur unexpectedly. One minute the engine is running fine and your keeping up with traffic, and the next you're
sitting along side the road with the hood up wondering what happened. In most instances, though, there is ample
warning that something is amiss long before the engine actually fails.

Unusual engine noises, low oil pressure, engine overheating, loss of power, misfiring, hard starting and similar
driveability and performance complaints can all be indications of problems that need attention. The underlying
cause may be something minor or major. There is no way to know unless somebody checks it out. If a motorist
ignores such warnings long enough, it can be a very costly mistake because eventually the engine may succumb to
whatever is causing the problem, which is a classic example of the famous preventive maintenance line, "You can
pay me now or you can pay me later."

Causes of Engine Failure

The major causes of engine failures can be lumped into four basic categories:

 Overheating (excessive heat)

 Lubrication (or the lack thereof)
 Detonation (Spark Knock )(Detonation)
  Misassembly (opps!)

ENGINE OVERHEATING

Overheating can be caused by any number of things. It is often the result of coolant loss or a low coolant level,
which is turn may be due to leaks in hoses, the radiator or the engine itself. A weak radiator cap that leaks pressure
can allow coolant to escape from the system. Not getting the cooling system completely filled after changing the
antifreeze can allow steam pockets to form that make the engine overheat or run hot. An electric cooling fan that
fails to come on due to a faulty thermostat, relay, wiring or motor may be an overlooked cause of overheating. So
too can a slipping fan clutch. Even a missing fan shroud that reduces the fan's effectiveness may be a contributing
factor.

Another common cause of overheating is a faulty thermostat. When most thermostats fail, they do so in the closed
position preventing the flow of coolant from the engine to the radiator. Replacing the thermostat will obviously
solve the problem, but may not prevent the same thing from happening again at some point in the future. So you
might want to install a "fail-safe" type of thermostat that still allows some coolant flow in the event of failure.

Less obvious causes of overheating can include a clogged radiator that is filled with sediment as a result of coolant
neglect, corrosion or using excessively hard water. Incorrect ignition timing and/or a lean fuel mixture (which may
be due to air leaks, low fuel pressure, etc.) can also elevate normal operating temperatures. An exhaust restriction
(typically a clogged catalytic converter) can also make the engine work harder causing it to run hot.

Too much heat in an engine can cause serious problems because heat causes metal to expand. The hotter the engine
gets, the tighter clearances become until there are no more clearances left. Overheating can cause valve stems to
gall and stick, and pistons to scuff and seize. So if you see either of these conditions when you tear the engine
down, it is a pretty good clue that overheating caused the engine to fail.

Excessive heat can also cause cylinder heads to swell, warp and/or crack. Ford 2.9L heads are notorious for
cracking because the thin wall castings can't take the heat. Other heads that often crack include those on Ford 1.5L
& 1.6L Escorts, Ford 2.3L and 2.5L, General Motors 2.5L, GM 250 six-cylinder heads with integral exhaust
manifolds, and 1987 and later Chevy small block V8 "Vortex" heads.

Aluminum heads are especially vulnerable to warpage and cracking because aluminum has a much higher
coefficient of thermal expansion than cast iron. Consequently, when a bimetal engine with an aluminum head gets
too hot, the head tends to swell up in the middle, causing it to warp and blow the head gasket. If the engine has an
overhead cam, the resulting misalignment in the cam bores created by the warpage can gall or seize the cam
bearings, or even break the cam. Anytime you encounter a warped or cracked aluminum head, or an OHC head with
a seized cam, chances are the damage was caused by overheating.

In some engines where the center exhaust ports are siamesed together, hot spots can develop in the head between
the exhaust ports causing the head to swell so much it crushes the head gasket resulting in a blown head gasket.
Replacing the head gasket may temporarily solve the compression problem, but unless the underlying cause of the
elevated exhaust temperature is diagnosed and corrected, the replacement gasket may eventually suffer the same
fate. Some aftermarket gasket manufacturers have gone so far as to develop special reinforced replacement gaskets
for engine applications that have a history of crushing gaskets.
One such example is Honda 1.3 & 1.5L engines in 1984-87 Honda Civics. These engines will often blow the head
gasket if the engine overheats because the head has a natural hot spot between cylinders #2 and #3. On these
engines, each cylinder has a precombustion chamber. The precombustion chambers for the two center cylinders are
located back to back. The exhaust valves are also right next to one another, and coolant flow is also limited in this
area. So if anything happens to make the head run hotter than usual, thermal expansion between the cylinders in the
head can crush the head gasket causing the gasket to leak or burn through. The underlying cause may be anything
from a coolant leak to an EGR or detonation problem, or even preignition caused by spark plugs that are too hot.
The fix is to replace the OEM head gasket with a special reinforced head gasket made by Fel-Pro for these engines.

ENGINE FAILURE CAUSED BY LUBRICATION PROBLEMS

Every engine needs oil between its moving parts not only to reduce friction but also to carry away heat. Oil is the
primary means by which the rod and main bearings are cooled, as well as the pistons. So any reduction in oil flow
may cause these parts to run hot, gall and seize.

Low oil pressure is often a contributing factor in engine failures. The underlying cause may be a worn oil pump
and/or excessive clearances in the main and rod bearings as a result of high mileage wear or neglect (not changing
the oil and filter often enough).

Oil starvation is almost always fatal to any engine, and is usually the result of a failed oil pump, a plugged oil
pickup screen inside the oil pan, or a low oil level. Bearings that have been damaged as a result of insufficient
lubrication will be shiny and worn where the crankshaft journal wiped away the bearing material.

Overhead cam engines are even more vulnerable to oil starvation and low oil pressure problems than pushrod
engines because the cam and valvetrain are farther from the pump. When an OHC engine is first started, it takes
awhile for oil pressure to reach the cam bearings. If the oil viscosity is too heavy (especially during cold weather), it
may delay the arrival of oil long enough to starve and seize the cam. For this reason, most vehicle manufacturers
recommend using a 5W-30 oil in late model OHC engines year round, but especially during cold weather. Refilling
the crankcase with the recommended viscosity oil can prevent a reoccurrance of this type of failure.

If you suspect engine damage may have been caused by a low oil level, check the dipstick to see how much oil is in
the pan. A low oil level may be the result of neglect, oil leakage and/or oil burning.

Oil-fouled spark plugs and a heavy buildup of black wet deposits on the backs of the intake valves and in the
combustion chambers would tell you the engine had been using oil. Oil usually enters the combustion chamber past
worn valve guides and seals, and also past worn or broken piston rings and worn cylinders. Worn valve guides can
sometimes be knurled to reduce clearances, but usually it requires installing new guides, guide liners or valves with
oversized stems.

Installing new valve guide seals can often reduce oil burning dramatically. An engine that sucks a quart of oil every
few hundred miles may be able to go several thousand miles without using any oil with a new set of valve guide
seals.

Any evidence of oil leakage around the front or rear crankshaft seal, pan gasket, valve cover gasket or other gaskets,
would tell you new gaskets and seals are needed. Most of these gaskets and seals will have to be replaced anyway if
you are opening up the engine.
Bearings ruined by dirty oil will have foreign material embedded in the surface and/or be scored by debris. Check
for a plugged oil filter and/or a missing air filter or oil filler or breather cap. The underlying cause here may be not
changing the oil often enough.

Piston damage caused by detonation.

ENGINE FAILURE CAUSED BY DETONATION

Detonation (Spark Knock ) is a form of abnormal combustion that results from too much heat and pressure in the
combustion chamber. The fuel ignites spontaneously causing a sudden rise in cylinder pressure. The result is a
sharp hammer-like blow on the piston that produces a metallic knocking or pinging noise. Light detonation is
considered normal and should not cause any damage, but heavy or prolonged detonation can crack rings, pound out
piston ring grooves, punch holes through the tops of pistons, smash rod bearings and blow head gaskets.

Detonation is sometimes confused with preignition, which is altogether different. Preignition occurs when a hot
spot inside the combustion chamber ignites the fuel before the spark does. The hot spot may be an overheated
exhaust valve, a spark plug that is too hot or even a sharp edge in the combustion chamber itself. Such hot spots can
be caused by anything that makes the engine run hotter than normal or inhibits normal cooling (such as a buildup of
carbon deposits). A hot exhaust valve may be the result of insufficient valve lash, a weak valve spring, excessive
wear of the valve stem or guide, or retarded ignition timing. Preignition can be a contributing factor in detonation.

Detonation can have numerous causes. One of the most common ones is loss of EGR. The exhaust gas recirculation
system dilutes the air/fuel mixture slightly to lower combustion temperatures when the engine is under load. This
reduces the formation of oxides of nitrogen (NOX) and also helps prevent detonation. So anytime you find evidence
of detonation damage, be sure to check the operation of the EGR valve and system.

Other causes of detonation include excessive compression, elevated engine operating temperature, preignition,
overadvanced ignition timing (spark knock), lean fuel mixture, spark plugs that have too hot a heat range for the
application, low octane fuel, and even bad driving habits such as lugging the engine excessively with a manual
transmission.

If you find detonation damage in an engine and discover a heavy accumulation of deposits in the combustion
chamber, it may be the result of a rich fuel mixture and/or oil burning. Frequent short trip driving can also
accelerate deposit formation. Black, oily deposits in the combustion chambers and on the backs of the intake valves
would point to worn valve guides and seals as the underlying cause. Black dry carbon deposits should lead you to
check for conditions that may be causing the fuel mixture to run rich (a bad oxygen sensor, a defective coolant
sensor that keeps the computer in open loop, excessive fuel pressure in a fuel injected engine, etc.).
Detonation may also be a problem if someone has done a performance tune on the engine computer and gotten the
spark timing over advanced and/or the fuel mixture too lean. Either condition may result in detonation when the
engine is under heavy load or accelerating hard. A performance tune may void the vehicle powertrain warranty (see
GM Duramax Diesel Warranty Issues for more information on this subject).

ENGINE FAILURE DUE TO MISASSEMBLY

You can probably ignore misassembly as a factor in a high mileage engine failure. But in a newly rebuilt engine or
a low mileage failure, it should certainly be considered as a possibility. Some common mistakes to look for:

 Incorrect engine bearing clearances (too tight or too loose). Galling or seizure would tell you bearing
clearances were too tight, while fatigue failure would point to excessive clearances.

 Insufficient Valve-to-Piston Clearance, or Piston-to-Cylinder clearance. Not checking clearances may result
in valves hitting pistons (especially with high lift cams or rocker arms) or pistons sticking in cylinders.

 Incorrect torque on critical fasteners like head bolts, rod and main bearing cap bolts, etc. Head bolts should
always be lightly lubricated with 30W engine coil prior to installation, and then torque in the proper
sequence to the vehicle manufacturer specifications. Too much torque can crush the head gasket while too
little torque or uneven torque can lead to leaks. Too much torque on rod and main bearing cap bolts may
crush or deform bearings, or cause the bolts to fail.

 Misalignment. If the center main bearings show much greater wear than the end bearings, the crankshaft
may be bent or the main bores may be misaligned. The underlying condition must be corrected by
straightening or replacing the crank and/or align boring the block. The same applies to camshafts and cam
bearings (pushrod & OHC).

 Failure to clean parts properly during engine assembly (not scrubbing out the cylinder bores with soap and
water to remove debris and honing residue after they have been bored or honed, for example). Any junk that
is left in the engine can scour bearings and wear surfaces.

 Failure to lubricate parts properly during engine assembly. Camshaft lobes require a high pressure engine
assembly lube that will stay put until the engine is started and oil reaches the cam. Bearings and cylinders
also need to be coated with oil or assembly lube to prevent a dry start. A special break-in oil is
recommended for the initial engine startup to help seat the rings.

New Motor Oils Are Bad for Older Engines with Flat Tappet Camshafts
 The lobes on this 289 Ford Mustang flat tappet cam suffered excessive wear because the motor oil did not contain
adequate levels of ZDDP anti-scuff additive.

If you are driving an older classic muscle car or hot rod that has an engine with a flat tappet camshaft, you should
be aware of the fact that today's "SM" rated motor oils contain much lower levels of anti-scuff additive called
"ZDDP" (Zinc Dialkyl Dithio Phosphate). The level of ZDDP in current motor oils has been reduced to no more
than 0.08% phosphorus to extend the life of the catalytic converter. Phosphorus can contaminate the catalyst over
time if the engine uses oil, causing an increase in tailpipe emissions.

The lower ZDDP content is not harmful to late model engines with roller lifters or followers because the loads are
much lower on the camshaft lobes. But on pushrod engines with flat tappet cams, the level of ZDDP may be
inadequate to prevent cam lobe and lifter wear. In some cases, cam failures have occurred in as little as a few
thousand miles of driving! This is even more of a risk in engines if stiffer valve springs and/or higher lift rocker
arms are used.

To avoid such problems, you should add a ZDDP additive to the crankcase, or use an oil that meets the previous
"SL" service rating, or use diesel motor oil or racing oil that contains adequate levels of ZDDP to protect the
camshaft and lifters.

If you are installing a new camshaft in the engine, be sure to use the cam manufacturers assembly lube and follow
the recommended break-in procedure. But you will still need to add ZDDP to the crankcase or use an oil that
contains adequate levels of ZDDP for continued protection.