Dharamsala

McLeod Ganj and the snow-capped peaks of the Dhauladhars

Dharamsala or Dharamsala (Hindi: धर्मशाला, pro-

nounced [d̪ ʱərəmˈɕaːlaː] or [d̪ ʱərmˈɕaːlaː]; Tibetan:
), is a hill station in Himachal Pradesh,
famed for its large Tibetan community centred around the
activities of the Dalai Lama.

Map of McLeod Ganj

1 Understand 1.1 Orientation

Dharamsala is divided into two distinct areas that are sep-
The Tibetan Buddhist roots of Dharamsala stretch back arated by a 10 min, 9 km bus or jeep ride.
to the 8th century, although most of the local population
long since reverted to (and remains) Hindu. “Dharam- • Lower Dharamsala, consists of most of the gov-
sala” literally means an “inn attached to a temple”, and it ernment offices, Schools, the local Hospital, and
was so until the district headquarters in Kangra became commercial areas. It also has a few tea gardens. One
too crowded and the British moved 2 of their regiments in in the area of Chilgari and another just beyond Dari.
the late 1840s to what is now Dharamsala. Over the years, It is a typical small Indian town that, other than for
this grew to be district headquarters of Kangra, and the the bus station, is of little interest to tourists. One
very location is now known as the Police Lines. can enjoy the view while driving through.
Dharamsala was mooted to be the summer capital of In-
dia. But this was not to be, as much of the town was de- • Upper Dharamsala, known more commonly as
stroyed in the 7.8 magnitude earthquake of 4 April 1905. McLeod Ganj is named after David McLeod the
The disaster killed over 10,000 people in this sparsely once the British Lieutenant-Governor of Punjab. It
populated area. is home to the Tibetan community and the centre of
tourist activity. Unless specifically stated, all listings
After falling into obscurity in the early days of Indian in- in this article refer to McLeod Ganj.
dependence, Dharamsala regained some social standing
in 1959 with the arrival of the Dalai Lama and the Tibetan • Bhagsu, is 2 km north and has become a commer-
Government in Exile. Currently, it is a very popular hang- cialised warren of concrete.
out for foreigners and students of Buddhism. Indeed, it is
now perhaps a little too popular and many would say the • Dharamkot, is the flavour of the month.
town, and especially McLeod Ganj, is little more than a
backpacker ghetto. Don't come here expecting calm and Villages near McLeod Ganj include Forsyth Ganj, a
tranquility. short hike away on the way up from Lower Dharamsala.

1
2 4 SEE

For a quiet and basic experience, try Naddi (3 km) or Railway to Kangra, a journey that easily takes up to 6
Talnu (11 km). hours and still leaves you 18 km from McLeod Ganj.
Many travellers choose to continue by bus or taxi instead.
If you do choose to go to Kangra then from the train sta-
1.2 Climate tion then you need to walk and autorickshaw to the bus
stop where buses are available to take you to Dharamsala.
Lower Dharamsala is at an altitude of 1,400 m, while
McLeod Ganj is at around 1,750 m, making them con-
siderably cooler than the plains below. Temperatures 2.4 By taxi
in January can dip below freezing, while June can go up
to 38°C. The monsoon season from July to September is A taxi from Pathankot to McLeod Ganj, a distance of
very wet. Even in March, when the Dalai Lama holds 88 km, takes about 3 hours, and the official fare from
his teachings and the weather down in Delhi is downright Pathankot is ₹ 1,300 (return). However the asking rate is
balmy, you will still need a heavy winter coat. These can always ₹ 1,600 and you can negotiate to around ₹ 1,450
be purchased at reasonable prices in the town. ( ₹50 is probably charged as a toll ). This is December
2011 rate for a small car ( Indica ).
Taxis from Delhi are often available leaving from Ma-
2 Get in jnu Ki Tila Tibetan settlement in North Delhi on the ring
road. Many people take a taxi to Delhi which takes about
2.1 By plane 10 hours and pay the return fare simply because they don't
want to deal with the hassle and pain of taking a bus.
Gaggal Airport (IATA: DHM) is at Gaggal near These taxis need to return to Dharamshala, and many
Kangra, a distance of 15 km from McLeodganj by road times will sell seats in their car for the same price as a
on MDR44 and NH20. The airport has been recently up- bus ticket. To find these taxis, go to the Majnu Ki Tila
graded. Air India and Spicejet operate daily flights to Tibetan Settlement Bus Stand and look for taxis which
Dharmashala from New Delhi. have Himachal Pradesh License plates. You can negoti-
ate with a driver. Often the taxis will leave in the evening
and you will arrive in Dharamshala early the next morn-
2.2 By bus ing.

Most people come to Dharamsala by bus. It has good

connections with other parts of North India, although the 3 Get around
journeys are often slow due to the narrow winding roads
in the hills. McLeod Ganj is small enough to be navigated on foot.
The main bus terminal is in Lower Dharamsala, but some Public buses to Dharamsala leave roughly hourly and cost
public HRTC buses to Delhi and Pathankot go all the ₹ 10. Chartered auto-rickshaws charge around ₹ 100,
way to the main square of McLeod Ganj, where you can taxis are now ₹ 200 one-way. Trips from McLeod Ganj
also book advance tickets for the return trip. Unreserved to nearby points (e.g. Bhagsu) should not cost much more
HRTC buses from Pathankot cost ₹ 135 and take 3/4 than ₹ 80.
hours to Dharamsala/McLeod Ganj. Private bus com-
panies are available for travel from Manali, Dehradun
and Delhi. Overnight buses operate from Delhi with 4 See
many leaving from the Tibetan colony of Majnu ka Tilla.
These services take upwards of 13 hr and cost from ₹
• Bhagsunag Falls (around 11 km from the
450 for a basic bus to ₹ 1000 for a plusher Volvo.Tickets
Dharamshala, it is easily approachable by road from
for Himachal Road Transport Corporation ( HRTC- A
Mcleodganj). Bhagsunag fall has many waterfalls, an
State Government body) can be booked online at http:
ancient temple, numerous slate quarries and a fresh
//hrtc.gov.in/HRTCTickets/ Chandigarh, 236 km distant
water spring.
from McLeodganj, is a gruelling 8-9 hr trip in an ordinary
bus.
• Dharamkot (around 14 km form Dharamshala.).
This is an ideal place for a picnic near to
2.3 By train Dharamshala. It is situated in the Himalayan moun-
tain range giving an amazing view of the surrounds.
The nearest broad gauge railhead is at Pathankot and the
neighboring small station of Chakki Bank, a comfortable • Kunal Pathari (around 3 km from the
overnight journey from Delhi. Train buffs can continue Dharamshala.). People come to this temple
on the very slow and rickety but pretty Kangra Valley every day to pray to the Goddess.

Giant prayer wheel and thangka of Arya Sitatapatra, a form of
Tara, at Tsuglagkhang
• Peak Art Gallery, Temple Rd, Mcleod Ganj (1/2
way down Temple Rd, below Cafe Nirvana). 10AM-
7PM.
• Rakkar. A picturesque hamlet on the outskirts of
Lower Dharamshala, perched on the foothills of the
Bhagsu Waterfall
snow capped Dhauladhar range of the Himalayas in
the Indian state of Himachal Pradesh. Historically
inhabited by shepherds of the Gaddi community, the
hamlet is slowly attracting visitors who are inter- 5.1 Trekking/walking
ested in getting away from the busy tourist hub of
McLeodganj in favor of having a closer interaction
with the locals villagers in a pristine village environ-
ment.
• Tibetan Institute of Performing Arts (TIPA).
Stage performances of traditional Tibetan dance,
music, and theatre. The shows are not happening
much.
• Tibetan Library (Tibetan Library of Works and
Archives). Near the Tibetan Government in Exile,
with a small but interesting museum.
• Tibet Museum (opp. Tsuglagkhang), ☎ +91 18 922
2510. Tu-Su 9AM-5PM. Small but interesting mu-
seum on the history of Tibet and its people. ₹ 5.
3
• Tsuglagkhang Complex, Temple Rd. This is the
largest Tibetan temple outside Tibet, and it has a
large meditation hall containing some beautiful stat-
ues and thangkas, as well as a Kalachakra temple
with beautiful murals. It is the monastery of the
Dalai Lama, and is located just in front of his resi-
dence.
5 Do
• Bhagsu Waterfall (3 km from Dharamsala). An
easy walk down Bhagsu Rd through the village of
the same name, then 1 km up to the waterfall itself.
Despite a sign advising visitors not to venture fur-
ther, the path to the waterfall is in reasonable shape,
except for the final 50 m which are distinctly dodgy,
especially in slippery weather. Be careful if you de-
cide to take a bath in the upper pools of the waterfall,
as there may be shards of glass in the water, possibly
thrown there by the villagers to prevent “indecent”
behavior by westerners at night.
• Dal Lake (4 km from Dharamsala, past Naddi).
Fairly well signposted. A thoroughly anticlimactic
sacred pond is the color and texture of its yellow
lentil namesake.
4 5 DO

• Indrahar pass. Passes through the snowbound experience for Buddhists and a memorable moment for
Dhauladhar Range in the Kangra valley. This Trek people of other faiths. It’s also very difficult to pull off,
ends at Lamu.Himalayan Heights Adventure Instt. so don't plan on it. It requires a good deal of luck.
a leading travel and Trekking agency organise and If you want to give it your best shot, the first thing to do is
conducts expeditions to all the passes over Outer make sure that His Holiness is actually in town when you
Himalayan Range (the Dhauladhar). Cross coun- visit. He travels frequently. His website lists his yearly
try treks to Chamba valley, Bharmour, Kullu and itinerary and an email to the office will confirm his travel
Manali,Lahoul & Spiti are conducted under the dates. While he does give scheduled public teachings,
super- vision of qualified instructors. Activities like
these are crowded. There are some that are only sched-
paragling,rafting and other aquatic sports are also uled a few days in advance, so keep your eyes and ears
conducted by this Institute.
open in Dharamsala. The ultimate goal is a private audi-
ence. His website says he is no longer giving them. This
• Triund. If you are in for a brisk walk, climb the
isn't precisely true, but you have to have a really good
hill beyond Dharamkot to Triund. Provides a beau-
reason or an “in.” Go to the office of his secretary.
tiful view of the first peaks of the Himalayas and a
wide view over the plains. As the ridge is 2,875 m, The Dalai Lama’s administrative office is in the Tsug-
make sure to wear good shoes, carry water, some lagkhang Complex. When you face his house, which has
food if you and an extra vest or coat. At the top, a gate with Indian guards in front of it, it’s the last door on
even in summer, the weather can change from hot your right, at the end of the complex. This office is open
and sunny to cold and cloudy very quickly. Every all day, six days a week. The man behind the desk will tell
year some tourists get themselves into serious trou- you to apply online and give you the website address. Go
ble this way, wearing only sandals and a T-shirt. If to an internet cafe and do it if you haven't already done it
you want to warm up before the Triund trek, try the and been rejected months in advance so that you can say
trek to Guna temple. This is a 5 km trek (one way), that you have, but it probably won't get you anywhere.
through jungle and is quite a climb. If the receptionist is there alone, then His Holiness is not
giving private audiences. If a bunch of people are there
If you want to do a shorter trek , hire a small car from holding slips of paper with their personal information and
McLeodganj for ₹ 300-350 to Galu Devi. (Please note; their passports, he’s giving private audiences, they usually
this is not Guna Devi). From there its a 3 hr climb to occur around noon. There is heavy security and you need
Triund. If you plan to stay overnight at Triund , there is a reason. Chat with everyone.
a Forest Rest house (₹ 500 per night ). Take a long your
Some people get in as a group, like a documentary crew
personal double bedsheetbut be aware there is no running
or a family whose father is a politician. Actually, talk to
water or electricity. So a torch , spare batteries is a must.
everyone in Dharamsala about His Holiness, and you're
If the Forest house is booked , then you can hire tents
bound to run into someone who is on his staff or knows
there.
someone on his staff. At the office, drop the name of ev-
ery person you met. If you are visibly ill, you may get
an audience based on that. Granted, this “audience” will
probably last the time it takes for him to bless you, which
is about 10 seconds, and an additional ₹ 5 to pose for a
photo. A photographer is provided and you are not al-
lowed to bring your own camera.
To meet the Dalai Lama is something most Tibetans
worldwide only dream of so count your blessings if you
receive an audience. Bring a khata (white scarf) - they
can be purchased for a few rupees, but since you'll proba-
bly be treasuring that khata, you might want to shell out ₹
20 for a nicer one. If he poses for a picture with you the
security office will tell you to return with a blank CD and
they will burn the picture onto a CD. Blank CDs can be
The “snow lion flag,” a symbol of the Tibetan independence purchased from the tech stores on Temple Rd for about
movement, is strictly outlawed in Tibet but ubiquitous in Dharam- ₹ 50. Remember to show appreciation for anyone whose
sala, name you might have dropped to get in. Donate to their
monastery, eat at their restaurant or whatever you feel is
appropriate. This isn't expected but it’s a nice thing to do.
5.2 Meeting the Dalai Lama
Every year in February–March for ten days or so, and oc-
casionally at other times, the Dalai Lama holds public lec-
Meeting (or at least getting to see) the Dalai Lama is the
tures. Registration at the Tibetan Branch Security Office
dream of a lifetime for many people, an intensive spiritual
6.1 Yoga, meditation, healing
(near Hotel Tibet) is necessary, preferably 3–4 days be-
forehand although shorter notice may be possible. Bring
a cushion to sit on, a FM radio with headphones to listen
to the simultaneous translation from Tibetan to English,
a cup for tea, and a sunhat/umbrella, but as little else as
possible since security is tight. The last day of teaching
concludes with public prayers, for which no security pass
is needed. Donations are welcome.
• 17th Karmapa (Dalai Lama’s alternative resi-
dence). A temporary residence is at the Gyuto
Tantric University in the town of Sidhbari near
McLeod Ganj.
6 Learn
The half-Tibetan, half-Indian bazaar bustle of McLeod Ganj
Courses available include yoga, meditation, reiki, Tibetan
and Indian cooking classes, Tibetan language classes and
Thai massage. Many courses include vegetarian meals,
and are offered at meditation centres.
6.1 Yoga, meditation, healing
• Asho Institute, Bhagsu Village. Courses in
ayurvedic nutrition and tai-chi.
• Amit Reiki & Meditation Centre, Jogiwara Rd,
B, Mcleodganj (below Yongling School), ☎ +91 94
18909046.
5
• Buddha Hall-Reiki with Usha' (opposite the Ger-
man Bakery). Courses in reiki (I,II,III and master)
as well as tarot and crystal healing from Buddha hall
in Bagsu. Flexible and compassionate teacher.
• Guerrilla Yoga (go down the stairs at Yongling
School. It’s the big green building). 5 day yoga
courses of several varieties in McLeod Ganj. Pri-
vate instruction is available. New studio, opened in
March of 2008, great staff, very friendly. Also has
local art for sale, commission free.
• Kailash School of Yoga & Holistic Healing (100
m from the main square. Walk down the stairs
from the Green Shop). Ashtanga Vinyasa and tribal
hatha yoga classes are available daily to everyone on
a drop-In basis. Treatments and sessions in reiki,
ayurvedic massage, meditation and 'sound healing'
are available but have to be arranged at least 1 day
in advance. Short and long-term courses.
• Kundalini Yoga, Thardoeling, Near HH Dalai
Lama temple, Mcleod Ganj, ☎ +91 98 1685 1691,
e-mail: jiwankaur13@hotmail.co.uk. Yoga classes.
• Tibetan Buddhism and language, ☎ +91 98 0539
1799, e-mail: tibhintutor@yahoo.in. 9AM-12PM
and 2PM-5PM. Mon-Sat. Courses include; Tibetan
buddhism, Tibetan language, Hindi language.
• Tushita Meditation Centre. 10 day Introduc-
tion to Buddhism/meditation courses, 5 day medita-
tion courses, and more (mostly residential). Silence
is held most of the day but there are also discus-
sion groups after philosophy lessons. Situated near
Dharamkot, Tushita practices the Tibetan mahayana
tradition. Register online or at Tushita. Prices are
inclusive of all lodging, lessons and 3 meals a day of
very tasty vegetarian food. Set cost per day is around
₹ 500 including food & lodging, can provide a grad-
ual introduction to those new to Buddhism. 10 day
course starts at ₹4,800.
• Vipassana (near Dharamkot). 10 days meditation
course. You need to register in advance at their web-
site . The course will teach you the Vipassana tech-
nique. You have to be completely silent, and you are
provided 2 meals and very light dinner. The course
is free, but you can leave a donation if you please.
The course is a fairly intense form of meditation re-
treat (14 hr days) in the Theravada tradition. Pre-
vious meditation experience is not required as you
will be asked to set aside your current practices while
learning the vipassana technique. Some would rec-
ommend that beginners attend a course such as that
offered by Tushita which is a mix of meditation, phi-
losophy, and discussions.
6 8 BUY

• Yogi Cottage, Bhagsu Rd (Mcleodganj). Yoga al- • Lha Social Work. Lha is one of the largest char-
liance approved ₹ 200-500 yoga teacher training itable social work organizations in Dharamsala and
programs, reiki lessons for individuals or groups. McLeod Ganj and aims to provide vital resources
see also: http://www.yogatribe.org and services for Tibetan refugees, the local Indian
population, and people from the Himalayan regions.
• Z-Meditation. 15 day silent meditation retreat in Volunteers are needed for English, French, and Chi-
lower Dharamsala. Deep deconditioning inquiry, nese classes, IT classes, vocational training, health
radiant mantras, creative meditations, assignments and environmental awareness education, distribu-
for disentangling your own life, and also 2 hr of tion of clothes and medicine, a community kitchen
daily yoga, three vegetarian meals and a refreshment and many other programs and activities.
break. The entire retreat is undertaken in silence.
Courses are US$600-1,200 depending on accom- • Mountain Cleaners. Mountain Cleaners is an en-
modation arrangements. vironmental non-governmental organisation (NGO)
involved in waste management activities for busi-
nesses, locals and tourists in the Dharamsala area.
6.2 Cooking classes The organisation also arranges clean-up treks, and
children’s days that volunteers can participate in.
• Lha Charitable Trust, Temple Road, ☎ +91 18 92
220992. Get your hands dirty while you learn to • Rogpa Cafe, Jogibara Rd, is always looking for vol-
make different kinds of momos, Tibetan breads, and unteers to work in the cafe or to look after children
Tibetan noodles. Contact Lha to set up a class. Also at the Day Care centre. This is a 2 week commit-
have volunteer opportunities. ₹300 for a 2 hr class. ment. All proceeds go to the Rogpa Day Care centre
that provides free services for local children.
• Llhamo’s Kitchen. Learn how to cook traditional
Tibetan food with different courses every day in- • Tesi Environmental Awareness Movement, . If
cluding soups, momos and Tibetan bread. Run by you are an environmental expert, then contact this
a delightful Tibetan man called Llhamo. It all takes non-profit Tibetan group.
place in Llhamo’s single room house right in the cen-
tre of town. • Volunteer Tibet, . Teaching English and computer
skills are common options. This organisation may
• Mr Sangye’s Kitchen, Joqibara Rd (further down likely pass you over to LHA or other organisations.
from the post office and the pool hall), ☎ +91 There are also a few institutions that provide for the
98 1616 4540, e-mail: sangyla_tashi@yahoo.co.in. benefit of exiled Tibetans and local Indians. There
Learn how to cook traditional Tibetan food, differ- are also ads on billboards and in the free local mag-
ent courses every day, ranging from soups, momos azine “Contact”.
and Tibetan bread.
You may also approach Tibetans in social circles to help
• Trimurti Cooking Class. Choose any three from them improve their English whilst getting to know each
a wide variety of Indian dishes, and Rajni will show other’s culture and personal story. Be mindful of ac-
you how to make it all in her small, pleasant kitchen. cepting requests for private tutorage from monks on the
Rajni began teaching classes and doing laundry to streets. After a few days they may subject you to demands
support herself after her husband was left paralysed for sponsorship, however stories of this are rare. It may
by a tragic fall. Ask for her above the Himalayan be best to go through a credible and well established or-
Adventures store in upper Bhagsu, near the steps to ganisation if you want to provide assistance in this way.
Dharamkot. In general most monks and lay people are incredibly
grateful to have you help them with their English and it
is a great way to get to know Tibetan people on a more
7 Work personal level. The easiest way to help out is to drop into
LHA on Temple Rd, or LIT on Jogibara Rd and sign up
for tutoring. A commitment of one month is preferred.
7.1 Volunteer
There are some opportunities to volunteer whilst in
Dharamsala. For longer term options such as 1 month 8 Buy
or more ask at the LHA office in the middle of the town.
Staff there are very friendly and always welcoming if peo- Many Tibetan things can be bought in Dharamsala such
ple wish to teach, tutor or get involved in conversational as jewellery and trinkets, woollen shawls, prayer flags,
classes. prayer wheels, thangka and mandala paintings.

• Tibetan Singing Bowl. Very easy to play and used
for sound healing, music therapy or just for relax-
ation.
9 Eat
McLeod Ganj is a great place for eating, and the town has
an abundance of restaurants, especially in the mid to up-
per range that cater to foreign tourists. The newer among
those upscale eateries increasingly tend to offer free wifi
connections. Despite the restaurateurs’ claims to the con-
trary these wifi services are sometimes not fully operative
or the connection may be interrupted and hence unsuit-
able for downloads. At the very least do not allow yourself
to be lured into settling down for an extended session at an
eating-place solely by their outdoor WiFi signage before
first ascertaining the quality of that service.
Momos sold by numerous Tibetan street vendors usually
sell at ₹10 for 4 pieces. These are safe to eat and accept-
able to the Western palate even if they cannot be expected
to match the level of culinary delicacy of those offered by
some of the best establishments listed below.
• Carpe Diem, Jogibara Rd (300 m or 10 min walk
from McLeodganj’s central square or chowk, on the
left-hand side, one storey above street level). Interna-
tional cuisine, including Mexican, Thai, Italian, and
Nepalese. The day’s selection of cakes on display.
Nepalese staff; small library of books for in-house
perusal; occasional live music.
• Chocolate Log, Jogibara Rd (20 min' walk from
McLeodganj’s central square or chowk, on the left-
hand side at the point where the road takes a sharp
turn to the right), ☎ +91 18 9222 1993. A virtual
landmark for decades and well-known to most lo-
cals, run by a Kashmiri-pandit couple. It is essen-
tially a cake-cum-pastry shop with a delightful sit-in
café on the upper-level sylvan terrace. Middling to
good baked items, coffee entirely disappointing.
• Common Ground Cafe, Tushita Rd (100 m uphill
from main square or chowk of McLeodganj), ☎ +91
18 9222 0264. A non-profit café set up as a meeting
place between Chinese and Tibetans that holds many
discussions and shows promoting harmony and un-
derstanding between the two cultures. Taiwanese
and fusion food served in a place to sit and relax
with your shoes off on the raised seating area.
• Dolma & Dorjee, Bagsu Rd (in the last bend of the
road to Bhagsu, just before you leave McLeod Ganj.).
Small inexpensive restaurant at the quieter end of
Bagsu Rd. Run by a delightful, friendly family who
give the place its character. Excellent banana bread
and good chai.
7
• Flourishing Flora, Tipa Rd (15 min walk from the
main square or chowk of McLeodganj; on the left-
hand side, just before the Tibetan Institute for the Per-
forming Arts or TIPA). A pleasant floral oasis on the
plush open-air patio of a free-standing, somewhat
secluded private house (no views to speak of, how-
ever), offering gourmet items (prepared, according
to the sign outside, without compromises in quality).
There are 11 beverages (₹ 30~75; including un-
usual ones, like “milk with organic turmeric”, ₹ 40),
breakfast items (₹ 30~70), fresh-baked bread, sand-
wiches (₹ 60~135), salads, baked sweets (₹ 25~70;
not on display), and set “home-cooked meals” (₹
150~250) which somewhat mysteriously escape fur-
ther elaboration in the menu. Managed by an Indo-
American couple. No wifi. ₹30~₹250.
• Green Restaurant, Green Hotel, Bhagsu Rd (300
m or 10 min walk from McLeodganj’s central square
or chowk, on the right-hand side, past Kunga Guest-
house), ☎ +91 18 9222 1200, +91 18 9221479.
7AM~9PM. Well-known, popular, and trendy, a
place to eat and be seen; decent, hearty food, all
supposedly organic, good Western pies and Tibetan
dishes, consistent in quality (if on rare occasion they
try to offload on you yesterday’s quiche just return it
and order something else). Terrace in the back of-
fers limited views over McLeodganj and the Kangra
Valley beyond (partly obstructed by water tanks on
the roof of the neighbouring house) to be enjoyed on
uncomfortable chairs; inside seating on cushy sofas
more agreeable. Pay by the hour wifi at higher rates
than those offered by most Internet cafés in town.
Reading matter for your visit can be chosen from a
small library of books, but this feature is not unique
and is customarily offered by most of McLeodganj’s
other trendy spots as well. ₹40~100.
• Herbal Tea Shop, Tipa Rd (5 min walk from the
main square or chowk of McLeodganj; on the left-
hand side, next door to the much larger 'Tennor' In-
ternet café by which it may be overshadowed in ap-
pearance). 8AM~10PM. A gourmet shop serving
specialty herbal teas, fresh-squeezed fruit juices, and
desserts such as banana cake and chocolate mousse,
all outstanding in quality, with most items costing a
flat ₹ 50 each. This is not a place in which to ap-
pease a ravenous hunger, but rather one in which to
savour delicacies in small portions and convivial at-
mosphere. Divan-style seating directly on the floor
with the aid of cushions. Some additional seating is
available outdoors on a divan put out in front of the
establishment during opening hours. A hub for an
informal single-women’s support group. ₹100 for
herbal tea and cake.
• Himalaya Restaurant, Bhagsu Rd. A stylish
eatery. Don't be put off by the small intimate down-
stairs area. The second floor boasts an all weather
8 9 EAT
patio and elegant decor. The menu is slightly pricey
but the food and setting more than makes up for it.
Tibetan, Indian, Chinese and western cuisine. ₹ 80-
180.
• Jimmy’s Italian Kitchen, Jogibara Rd (a few steps
from McLeodganj’s main square or chowk, on the
left-hand side, just past the Buddhist chorten and on
the opposite side to it, one storey above street level).
Nice decor with old, and not-so-old, movie posters,
unprofessional staff apparently left unsupervised by
the owners. Food better than that offered at the
other Italian style places in town, with great salads,
and acceptable pastas (napolitana, arrabbiata, quat-
tro formaggi, puttanesca) and pizzas. ₹100~₹130.
• JJI Exile Brothers Mama’s Kitchen, Bhagsu Rd
(a short walk from McLeodganj’s central square or
chowk, on the right-hand side, between Peace Cof-
fee House and Kunga Guesthouse). 8:30AM~10PM.
A cozy little hole-in-the-wall type of place with
5 tables, a counter, and a dog. Decent Tibetan
food, with 5 versions of thukpa and thenthuk each
(₹ 50~80), brown-flour momos (₹ 50~70, includ-
ing the rare spinach variety), and several less-well-
known Tibetan specialties (such as tingmo (steamed
bread) with vegetables, ₹ 60~70); also vegetable and
fruit salads (₹ 40~60), rice dishes (₹ 40~70; in-
cluding the mysteriously named “Om Rice”), sev-
eral versions of chow mein (₹ 40~70), and soups
(₹ 40~50). Desserts include vegan chocolate cake
and rum cake with nuts. Tea (₹ 10~30); pocha
included. “Farmer’s Breakfast” (an omelette with
mixed vegetables, tomatoes and potatoes, served
with Tibetan butter toast and tea, ₹ 100) is a famous
set item, offered alongside several varieties of pan-
cakes (₹ 40~60), styles of porridge, and fresh juices
(₹ 40~50). Owned by three Tibetan musician broth-
ers “JJI Exile Brothers” who give live performances
on the premises on Sundays at 7:30PM. Admission
is ₹ 100 extra per person; advance booking essen-
tial, otherwise they may not show up. The band’s
recorded music can be heard at other times. Por-
tions tend to be smallish. A bookshelf with some
reading materials, no wifi.
• Le Vrai Café, Jogibara Rd, (just above the Choco-
late Log, and down the hill from the post office). This
is the place to get European continental food and
atmosphere. Run by a Franco-Tibetan couple, ex-
pect top quality coffee, plenty of chess and a real
locals’ atmosphere. Epitomises the trans-nationality
of McLeod, to be celebrated and savoured.
• Lhamo’s Croissant. Bhagsu Rd. A simple yet
stylish eatery. Breakfasts, sandwiches, soups, salads
and deserts, as well as coffee’s and a good selection
of teas. The bread is baked fresh each morning by
Lhamo. The second floor has comfortable Japanese
style seating on cushions and Tibetan carpets. Fan-
tastic views from the roof top. Free wi-fi.
• Lung-Ta, Jogibara Rd (all the way near the southern
end of town), M-Sa, noon-11PM, closed Sundays.
Excellent Japanese food, pay attention to the daily
specials. There is also a small clothing store which
sells high end Tibetan inspired fashions. Non-profit,
proceeds go towards assisting former political pris-
oners and documenting human rights violations.
• Malabar Restaurant, Jogibara Rd (near the bus
stand), 11AM-11PM everyday. Serves Indian stan-
dards along with a few selections of Chinese and
some continental dishes. This is one of the oldest
restaurants in town.
• Maza Falafel, Near Bhagsu Temple (Opposite Ger-
man Bakery). Good falafel for ₹ 70.
• Momo Café, Tipa Rd (just above the main square
or chowk of McLeodganj, the first house, or rather
shack, on the right). 7:30AM~9:30PM (summer);
8AM~9:30PM (winter). A bare-bones somewhat
dingy eatery prized for its momos. A 12-page bilin-
gual menu in English and Japanese describes 9 va-
rieties of the delicacy in the vegetarian category (₹
50~70 for a plate of 10~12 pieces) and 5 varieties in
the non-veg category (₹ 60~80 for a plate of 3~12
pieces). Tibetan dishes have nine elaborations of
the thukpa. Western and Tibetan breakfast includes
pancakes, omelettes and muesli dishes. Chinese sta-
ples include 7 varieties of chow mein. Tibetan bread
comes in giant size, matching a dinner plate in cir-
cumference, with special filling (₹ 25). Despite the
simplicity of the physical space with only three ta-
bles this is a gourmet place, with creative spinoffs on
traditional dishes that are not easily to be found even
in much bigger establishments. Notwithstanding the
presence of the word “Café" in the establishment’s
name, this is decidedly not a place for a coffee expe-
rience. The necessity to share one’s table with other
diners may be disconcerting to some. ₹ 25~80.
• Namgyal Café, Nehru Rd, Mcleodganj (at the OM
Hotel). 10AM~10PM. Tibetan and Italian dishes,
Western-style cakes, and a gamut of tea varieties (₹
10~50), full of character (enhanced by Bob Mar-
ley music in the background) and popular with the
McLeodganj cognoscenti. A small library of books
donated by previous guest can be read in duration
of the visit or can be borrowed at nominal costs.
Serves among the best thin crust pizzas available in
north India cooked using a range of garden fresh
ingredients. Don't forget to order tomato sauces
(grown from tomatoes in their own backyard) with

your dish. A good place to chat with fellow com-
panions or other travellers over a cup of coffee. Try
to occupy the window table offering the best view
of valley below. Foods takes some to be prepared
as it is freshly prepared for every order by the owner
couple. ₹ 50~200 per person for a light meal.
• Nick’s Italian Kitchen, Kunga Guesthouse, Bhagsu
Rd (5 min walk from McLeodganj’s main square or
chowk). 6AM~9PM. An airy well-lit room with
windows giving out on Bhagsu Rd. Decent West-
ern fare of lesser quality with some Tibetan dishes
available. The numerical menu has 194 items to
choose from. The terrace in the back offers views
over the McLeodganj Valley and Kangra Valley be-
yond, similar to those visible from the terraces of
the neighbouring Green Restaurant and Peace Cof-
fee House. A limited library of books and a popu-
lar noticeboard. Service here has been good -- you
write up your order yourself and hand it to any of the
many service staff. Tables are kept clean and the en-
tire place gets a thorough wipedown every morning.
The place becomes noisy when crowded. Free wifi,
occasional malfunctions like everywhere else here,
fine for surfing or uploading pictures, but slow for
downloads (30 kBps). ₹ 30~150.
• Norling Restaurant, Jogibara Rd (a short walk
from McLeodganj’s central square or chowk, on the
right-hand side, just before the Dolma Chowk cor-
ner). Tibetan food is barely on the passable side
and the Tibetan proprietress may give the impres-
sion that she has better things to do than running a
restaurant). The distinction between vegetarian and
non-vegetarian cuisine is very hazy here, a circum-
stance which may deter vegetarian patrons: if you
order “Special Thenthuk” (or “Special Thukpa"; ₹
95 each) here, it will arrive with chicken and mutton
pieces in it, without any forewarning of the nature
of the dish in the menu. “Vegetable Thenthuk” (₹
50), appears to be prepared with meat stock as well.
Seafood dishes (₹ 255~295). Some dishes appear
absurdly overpriced such as the hooko soup, ₹ 400.
No wifi or any reading materials. ₹ 50~400.
• Om Hotel, (near the main bus square in Mcleod
Ganj). Family run restaurant/hotel has great Mexi-
can and Tibetan food, and is very cheap. Great view
from terrace.
• Oogo’s Café Italiano, Jogibara Rd (a short walk
from McLeodganj’s central square or chowk, on the
left-hand side). A town fixture since 2004 with a
hole-in-the-wall appearance; despite its once care-
fully designed interior decor it is now rather run-
down and without character. Offers several vari-
eties of risotto, and of course pastas (₹ 65~99) and
thin-crust pizzas (₹ 70~130), generally comparable
9
to those served at Namgyal Café (above). Do not
risk coffee here, however. Small library of books
to be perused during your visit. Home delivery is
advertised in the menu. ₹ 65~150.
• Peace Coffee House, Bhagsu Rd (between Kunga
Guesthouse and Green Hotel; one storey above street
level, ascended via a narrow metal stepladder).
7AM~10PM. A would-be swanky wifi café run by
young Tibetans and serving a variety of food includ-
ing breakfast muesli, toast, sandwiches, specialty
teas. good coffee. Some items are distinguished
by the carefulness of preparation; free access to wifi
(slow speed). Its minuscule single-table front ter-
race overlooking Bhagsu Rd and 4-table front room
are complemented by a back terrace with 6 tables
and good (unobstructed) views of McLeodganj. A
very tiny library of books, including guidebooks. ₹
50~100.
• Peace Café, Takhyil Guesthouse, Jogibara Rd
(10 min walk from the main square or chowk of
McLeodganj; on the right-hand side of the section of
the street populated by vegetable-mongers, and a cou-
ple of stairs above the street level). A down-to-earth
(in every sense) and somewhat drab breakfast place
frequented by backpackers, offering egg dishes (₹
20~45), porridge (with mixed fruit, ₹ 65), toast,
sandwiches (tofu sandwich, ₹ 45), several types of
bread (₹ 5~25; ₹ 5 extra for peanut butter, jam, or
honey), and pancakes (₹ 40~70; mixed-fruit choco-
late pancake, ₹ 70); also French fries (₹ 35), Ti-
betan dishes such as thukpa (₹ 40~70) of uncertain
quality, and momos (steamed, ₹ 40~50; fried mo-
mos ₹ 10 extra). Good lassi in several varieties (in-
cluding unusual ones, e.g. “apple lassi"; ₹ 20~35).
• Pema Thang’s Guest House, Bhagsu Rd (opposite
Bhagsu Hotel) 11AM-10PM everyday. Continental
and local styled vegetarian food. Try the fried ba-
nana with nuts and the pepperoni pizza. They also
serve great thenthuk.
• Pizzicato Cafe, Palampur (Palampur shopping cen-
tre, next to the auto-rickshaw stand). Famous for
its dark chocolate pastry made from fat free yogurt.
It has a good selection of pizzas and toasted sand-
wiches.
• Restaurant Mc'Llo, Main Square. Situated in one
of the most crowded public places in town, this huge
place, spread among several floors, is as noisy, and
as cramped as the square outside. Extensive selec-
tion of Chinese, Punjabi, south Indian and north In-
dian food, most of it geared to the Indian palate of
the patrons along with fantastic pizza. There is also
a decent pub/bar, with a good selection of Western
10
wines including French and Italian vintages. Floren-
tine red, Ruffino Riserva 2005, at ₹ 2,945 a bottle,
non-vintage French Médoc, ₹ 1,845 a bottle, and a
rooftop terrace with mostly obstructed views.
• Rewa Cafe, Jogiwara Rd, (down the hill, 5 min past
the Post office). Good Tibetan food.
• Shangri La Restaurant, on Jogibara Rd near the
bus stop is a great little cafe run by monks and with
all proceeds going to Gyudmed Monastery. Try the
Shangri La Sandwich for breakfast. Meals for dinner
also good quality and well priced.
• Snow Lion Restaurant, Hotel Tibet, Bhagsu Rd
(a few steps from McLeodganj’s central square or
chowk, on the right-hand side). This used to be one
of the best places for Tibetan food in town, in the
good old days when the restaurant and the hotel to
which it is attached were owned by the Tibetan Gov-
ernment in Exile. This is no longer the case how-
ever. Under the new management the place is still
run fairly efficiently by mainly Nepalese staff, with
clean, frequently changed table-cloths but the food
here is a bad joke. The associated bar, in a separate
room called “Dragon Bar”, has drinks for as little
as ₹ 30, or a glass of champagne for ₹ 550 and is
patronised by local alcoholics who may ask you for
“donations”. Takeaway bakery on premises and ac-
cessible only from Bhagsu Rd.
• Sunset Cafe, (on the rooftop of the Annex Hotel,
past The Bookworm book shop and up the hill on
the right). Fresh food and views of the valley and
mountains.
• Taste of India, Jogibara Rd, 10AM-11PM every-
day. Some say it’s the best Indian food in town, oth-
ers find it mediocre, but it’s certainly popular; this
depends on whether you are lucky with your order:
the best is absolutely fantastic, but sometimes the
dishes are bland. The owner runs 2 day cooking
courses from the restaurant, but they are not partic-
ipatory. The cooking courses are similar to watch-
ing a cooking show, leaving one to write down the
recipes as there are no reference materials handed
out. She also owns a South Indian restaurant on
Bhagsu Rd, one of the last shops in Mcleod on the
way to Bagsu, which serves simple but very tasty
southern dishes.
• Tibet Kitchen, Jogiwara Rd, House #1, McLeod
Ganj (next to main square), ☎ +98 58 75626. 9AM-
10PM. Restaurant spread over 3 floors. Italian, Is-
raeli, Chinese, Thai, Bhutanese, and Tibetan food.
Very popular with Tibetans. The food is consistently
good and fresh. In the centre of town, internet avail-
able.
10 DRINK
• Woeser Bakery, Jogibara Rd (below Black Magic).
Best pastries in town baked daily with quality ingre-
dients. The owner and baker, Sangmo, is a young
Tibetan always up for a chat with her customers.
Must try the walnut tart, chocolate chilli lollipops,
handmade cappuccino, vegan cakes (also gluten-
free options!), coffee made from fresh beans. Fif-
teen kinds of hot teas, real hot chocolate, Indian
chai, milkshakes and other cold drinks, and a small
library with a good collection of books. Woeser
Bakery is below Black Magic, on Jogiwara road, 100
meters downhill from the main square. ₹ 20~100.
• Zomsa Café, Tipa Rd (a few steps off the main
square or chowk of McLeodganj; on the right-hand
side, between Momo Café and the Herbal Tea Shop).
The newest addition to the McLeodganj coffee
scene. Opened its doors in the spring of 2011 and
exudes the plushness of interior design that could
only be arrived at some considerable expense. A
distinctly Western feel belying the all-Tibetan own-
ership of the establishment, and appropriately pop-
ulated by hip Tibetan monks working their life away
on MacBooks Pros. Coffee (₹ 30~70), tea (₹
10~40), specialty fruit drinks (₹ 40~80), snacks (₹
60~80) and breakfast items (₹ 20~50). Coffee here
is prepared with highly purified water, as are the
drinks and the ice-cubes that go with them. Free
wifi but no reading materials. ₹ 10~120.
10 Drink
• Café Budan (formerly called First Cup), Ho-
tel Himalayan Paradise complex, Jogibara Rd
(15 min walk from McLeodganj’s main square
of chowk). Under the same management as
moon•peak espresso; Indian owners with Tibetan
staff. The coffee here is only just passable. The
place, which looks like a converted garage, lacks any
decor or character. Free wifi. ₹ 50~120.
• Common Ground Cafe, Sewarg Ashram Rd
(Tushita Rd) (1 minute uphill from the main bus
stand), ☎ +91 98 1627 3240. This is a gathering
point for the local community and visitors to share
Taiwanese, Chinese and Tibetan cuisine. Also an
events venue, providing a platform for a community-
based common ground for learning and exchange.
A non-profit business venture which helps gener-
ates a sustainable source of income for Common
Grounds Project, and vocational training and em-
ployment opportunities for a small group of Tibetans
in the Dharamsala exile community where unem-
ployment runs high.
• Heart Rock Cafe, Post Office Jogi Bada Rd,
McLeod Ganj (down Jogi Bada Rd, about 10 min
11.1 Budget
walk from the bus stand). 10AM-11PM. There are 11.1 Budget
better decorated places, but not as pure as this place.
On the walls there are pictures of Kali, Jesus and
some Sikh Guru’s. Here religion is second to hu-
man rights. Being tucked away a bit you might al-
most miss it. In the afternoon you might encounter
local workers sipping away some thea at lunch. Al-
cohol is not served, it is a place to relax, not to get
drunk. Breakfast, lunch and dinner is served here.
Thea 10 ₹.
• Moon•Peak espresso, Temple Rd (10 min walk
from McLeodganj’s main square of chowk). 7AM-
8PM. Coffee for ₹ 40~70, while it is possible to
find better coffee in McLeodganj this is neverthe-
less a very pleasant café to visit. All-Tibetan staff
and Indian owners. Good, if smallish, sandwiches
and several breakfast items. Teas, including herbal;
₹ 50~60). This is one of the very few places in
McLeodganj with free and really functional WiFi. A
notice printed within the menu uncharacteristically
enjoins the patron to “please order a few things”
if “you are going to sit on the net for a while”. ₹
50~120.
• Refill your waterbottle with filtered-water, many
water-filtering stations to refill your bottle are avail-
able in the town: LHA at Temple Rd, Environ-
mental Education Centre at Bhasgu Rd and Dogga-
Centre at Jogibara Rd. Some restaurants, including
Nick’s and Green Hotel also offer filtered water re-
fills for a charge (₹ 5, but Green Hotel asks for ₹
10).
• Xcite, main square, mcleod ganj. Popular hang-
out with both westerners, locals and holidaying Pun-
jabis. Has the only dance floor in the area. Both In-
dian and western tunes are played until 1AM. The
only nightclub in the region.
11 Sleep
McLeod Ganj has a wide selection of accommodation,
most of which is located close to the main bus stop. Just
walk around. It is easy to find somewhere suitable. There
are also 2 smaller towns within walking distance, Bhagsu
and Dharmakot. They are quieter than McLeod, whose
main streets (esp. Bhagsu Rd) suffer from the usual In-
dian curse of lots of beeping cars/bikes/rickshaws push-
ing through the streets, and have a wide array of cool
places to stay and courses to do.
For long-term stays, head down the Yongling stairs on
Jogiwara Road; there are about a dozen cheap good places
down there, with great views.
11
• Colonel’s Cozy Corner (near Dari), ☎ +91 94
1872 4897, +91 98 1677 0899 (bookings), e-mail:
colkrishan@yahoo.co.in. Belongs to a helpful re-
tired army officer and his wife. A secure place
with no one to disturb you. Registered with Hi-
machal Govt tourism department under their Home-
stays scheme . 3 rooms. Home like atmosphere,
clean linen and safe water. A local 'Dham' (lunch)
is available. ₹ 600-800, negotiable upon period of
stay.
• Green Hotel, Bhagsu Rd, McLeod Ganj, ☎
+91 18 9222 1200, +91 18 9222 1479, e-mail:
green@greenhotel.biz. Simple, clean rooms and
very good restaurant. You can refill your water bot-
tle for ₹ 10/liter here to save on plastic, internet cafe
in the restaurant. Best cakes in town, specially car-
rot cake. ₹ 400-1,000, they also have some newly
refubished mid-range rooms from ₹ 1,700-2,000.
• Hotel Akash, ☎ +91 18 9222 1990. Jogiwara
Rd. Run by a German-Indian family, beautiful clean
rooms. Great coffee and atmosphere.
• Hotel Ekant Lodge, ☎ +91 1892 221593. Jogi-
wara Rd. Run by Indian family, economy,beautiful
clean rooms with private balcony.This one of the
oldest registered lodge in the town.Ekant Lodge has
spacious rooms with private balconies.The views
of the snow mountains are exquisite from every
room.The specialty of the lodge is its homemade
dishes served to the guests. The tariff starts
from ₹600/- to ₹1500/−. Facility of free park-
ing and free internet is available.Adventure ac-
tivities like trekking,adventure camps,Rock climb-
ing,Safari Tours,Paragliding and Water Sports activ-
ities are also conducted by professional Instructors.
• Hotel Snow Crest Inn, Naddi Village, ☎ +91 18
9222 0543. Check-in: 12 noon, check-out: 12
noon. ₹ 1,200.
• Lord Krishna Residency, Temple Rd, ☎ +91 18
9222 1588. Clean rooms, tea, coffee and atmo-
sphere.also contact for bike on rent call 9857690700
• Pink House, Jogiwara Rd (opp Yongling school),
☎ +91 98 0552 7124, +91 18 9222 1145, e-mail:
pinkhouse06@gmail.com. Nicer rooms than many
of the other budget accommodations. Distance from
main roads makes for a quieter stay. Internet avail-
able. 7-10 min walk from Mcleodganj bus stand.
Private bathroom, hot water, balcony, WiFi, inter-
com, Tibetan massage centre and small TV. Double
rooms ₹ 600-1,100.
12
• River View Apartments, Jogiwara, Heru Village,
☎ +91 98 1620 6406, +91 98 1629 2228. All rooms
with balcony and kitchen.
• Seven Hill’s Guest house (200 m up Tipa Rd), ☎
+91 94 1807 9845. ₹ 100-300 for double room for
2 person.
• Shree Guest House (300 m up Tushita Rd), ☎ +91
94 1878 8777. 3 year old guest house run by a family
in a quieter part of town. ₹ ~150,000 for a double
room for 2 person.
• Snow Lion Guest House. Great budget place right
in the centre of town ₹ 175 for tiny double room
with communal bathroom.
• Tibetan Ashoka Guesthouse, ☎ +91 18 9222
1763. Very clean and comfortable rooms at rea-
sonable prices (single for ₹ 220; double about ₹
350/night).
11.2 Mid-range
• 8 Auspicious Him View Hotel, ☎ +91 94 1823
6603. Check-in: 11102015, check-out: 14102015.
Jogiwara Rd, Mcleod Ganj. (below Ladies Venture
Hotel). View of the snow capped Dhauladhar range
from a private balcony. Clean rooms with attached
bathrooms. Located within walking distance of the
main temple of the Dalai Lama and Mcleod Ganj.
Each room is named after one of the eight auspicious 11.3 Splurge
signs of Buddhism and decorated accordingly.
• Annex Hotel, ☎ +91 18 9222 1002. Surya Rd.
Views over the Kangra Valley. On a quiet side street
close to the main square. 10 rooms, all of which
have balconies, cableTV and an attached bathroom
with hot water. Sunset Cafe on the rooftop has in-
ternet facilities. Common lounge room, library and
room service. You can also book airline, bus and
train tickets plus tours and trek reservations from the
hotel’s travel desk. From ₹ 850-1,800.
• Bhagsu Hotel. State-run Himachal tourism hotel,
which despite the name is in McLeod Ganj. At the
upper end of the price range with carpeted rooms
and en-suite bathrooms. Has a pleasant pseudo-
English garden with lawn and flowers. ₹ 800-1,600.
• Hotel Tibet, Bhagsunag Rd. Clean. spotty hot wa-
ter, reasonable meals. Good deals off-season.
• Jagatram Niwas (Above McLeodganj in the quiet
rural village of Heini.), ☎ +91 98 1614 3957. Small,
family-run guest house offers peace and quiet, clean,
11 SLEEP
stylishly furnished rooms and traditional Himachali
home-cooked food. Is an ideal base for trekking in
the Dhauladhar range and day excursions to local
sights and attractions. ₹ 800 per night, including
breakfast, discounts for longer stays.
• Pema Thang’s Guest House (opp Bhagsu Hotel), ☎
+91 18 9222 1871. Tibetan-run older guesthouse,
tucked on a quiet side street with great views over
the Kangra Valley. Rooms are starting to show their
age, but they're scrupulously clean and comfy and
feature a TV and 24h hot water. Double rooms
₹ 770-1,100, industrial-strength gas heater (neces-
sary in winter) ₹ 200/day extra, kitchenette facilities
available for longer stays.
• Snow Crest Inn Dharamsala, Naddi, Upper
Dharamsala, (3 km from Mcleod Ganj). ☎ +91
94 1808 6608, . A short walk from the Tibetan
Childen’s Village. Views of the Dhauladhar Moun-
tain Range from the roof top restaurant or a private
balcony. Internet access, TV and solar heated water
for your shower. ₹ 600-700 off season, ₹ 1,200-
1,400 in high season.
• Hotel Valley View Crest, Satobari Hills, Near Dal
Lake, Naddi, Upper Dharamsala (Just below the hills
of Dhauladhar ranges, 5 km from Dharamshala and
3 km from Mcleodganj), ☎ +91 18 9222 0091. 25
rooms ₹ 1,200.
• Asia Health Resorts, ☎ +91 18 9222 0877. Lo-
cated outside of the main centre of McLeod Ganj
and Dharamsala, this modern hotel is somewhat
sterile, but takes a stab at upmarket, and is the only
place in the area where you'll find a (small) swim-
ming pool, and a gym with steam and sauna. Also
offers ayurvedic massage, a rooftop bar and some
rooms & suites with A/C.
• Chonor House, off Temple Rd (on a secluded side
alley verging off Temple Rd near the entrance to
the Tsuglagkhang temple complex), ☎ +91 18 9222
1006, +91 18 9221 1468, fax: +91 18 9222 0815,
e-mail: chonorhs@norbulingka.org. Check-in: 12
noon, check-out: 12 noon. One of the best and
easily one of the most expensive places to stay in
McLeodganj. Run by the Norbulingka Institute,
whose proceeds go to helping refugees. Private car
available. Prix fixe breakfast, ₹ 315; prix fixe din-
ner, ₹ 473.. Service in the restaurant, indoors and
on the adjacent open-air terrace is usually very good.
The 11 rooms here are however in high demand, par-
ticularly in the high season of May and June when it
would seem essential to book in advance. Very kind
 13

and helpful staff who will go out of their way to as-

sist you, and, because of the size of the hotel, they
get to know you personally over a few days. They
also have the cleanest kitchens in India, and may let
you look. ₹ 3,188~₹6,080.

• Glenmoor Cottages, Mall Rd, McLeodganj,Upper

Dharamshala (approximately 1 km from
McLeodganj on the road leading to the Dal
Lake /TCV), ☎ +91 18 9222 1010. 1 km from
the town of McLeodganj. Sited in a mixed forest
of cedar, oak and rhododendron, overlooking
the Kangra valley. Ideal for a quite and peaceful
holiday. Known to be frequented by a number of
celebrities and dignitaries.

• Nature Bloom Hotel and Resorts, Dharamshala

Palampur Road, Gopalpur (Darati), District Kangra
(H.P) (approximately 15 km from Dharamshawla
and 12 km from Palampur /TCV, adjourning the
Wildlife Natural Park (“The Dhaulladhar Zoo”)),
☎ +91 9818887454, e-mail: info@naturebloom.in.
Nature Bloom Hotel & Resorts is a good example
of unique craftsmanship and green tea gardens.

• Surya McLeod. Another somewhat upmarket

choice, rooms in this large hotel have TVs and some
have views over the valley. Restaurant, bar and ping
pong table on site. ₹1,800-₹3,400.

12 Stay safe
The place has become much safer in recent times though
it is advisable to take precautions. Stay vigilant at all times
and be very cautious if staying out after 9PM.

13 Go next
• Amritsar - The holy Sikh city of and its Golden
Temple is a 6 hr bus ride away. Buses leave at 5AM
from the lower bus station.

• Dalhousie - a small hill station close to Pathankot.

• Manali - is the next hub for journeys deeper into the

mountains.

• Palampur - beautiful valley famous for its tea gar-

dens, agricultural university, temples.

• Sidhbari - outside lower Dharamshala is an ideal

getaway from the tourist traffic and to experience life
in a typical farming village in the valley.
14 14 TEXT AND IMAGE SOURCES, CONTRIBUTORS, AND LICENSES

14 Text and image sources, contributors, and licenses

14.1 Text
• Dharamsala Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Dharamsala?oldid=2927889 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot,
Cjensen~enwikivoyage, Wrh2, Sertmann, Jpatokal, Peterfitzgerald, Jc8136, Pbsouthwood, Ypsilon, LtPowers, Vidimian, Inas,
Ravikiran r, Cacahuate, Saqib, PerryPlanet, RegentsPark, ClausHansen, Stefan2bot, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Episteme,
(WT-en) Cardboardbird, (WT-en) WindHorse, (WT-en) Roundtheworld, (WT-en) H3O, (WT-en) Hiwhispees, (WT-en) Tsyn, (WT-en)
CGTechnosoft, (WT-en) Btjeffreys, (WT-en) Jtesla16, (WT-en) Ezytaxi, (WT-en) SBC-YPR, (WT-en) Pj, (WT-en) Chebsum, (WT-en)
Amitreiki5, (WT-en) Rajinhills, (WT-en) Abn397, (WT-en) Aonyx, (WT-en) Zcmarine, (WT-en) SatSiri, (WT-en) Hbk star2006,
(WT-en) Tamroonii, (WT-en) Chinmayie, (WT-en) Pintu, (WT-en) Medjeti, (WT-en) Saransh, (WT-en) Naddi, (WT-en) S Kumar,
(WT-en) Himalayafunandtours, (WT-en) Oohazard, (WT-en) Prbali, (WT-en) Tash, (WT-en) Octocho, (WT-en) Mariasophia, (WT-en)
Manucda, (WT-en) Nils2008, (WT-en) Nishant0606, (WT-en) Pinkhouse06, (WT-en) Nileshsaini, (WT-en) Jayantkonde, Eco84, Ikan
Kekek, Felix505, LilHelpa, Sumone’s bot, Keithonearth, Gorilla Jones, Tiimta, Bill-on-the-Hill, The Anonymouse, Texugo, WOSlinker,
Planemad, Andrew Dalby, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc, Addbot, Bhanu1313, Prbali and Anonymous: 263

14.2 Images
• File:Bhagsunag_Waterfall_Pan.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/ef/Bhagsunag_Waterfall_Pan.JPG
License: GFDL Contributors: Own work Original artist: User: (WT-shared) Jpatokal at wts wikivoyage
• File:Dharamsala_Temple_Bazaar.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/8e/Dharamsala_Temple_Bazaar.
JPG License: GFDL Contributors: Own work Original artist: User: (WT-shared) Jpatokal at wts wikivoyage
• File:Dharamsala_View.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e6/Dharamsala_View.JPG License: GFDL
Contributors: Own work Original artist: User: (WT-shared) Jpatokal at wts wikivoyage
• File:Map_mag.png Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/ce/Map_mag.png License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors:
Designer: FatCow Web Hosting (Transferred by TarzanASG) Original artist: The original uploader was Mey2008 at German Wikipedia
• File:Map_of_McLeod_Ganj.png Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/f0/Map_of_McLeod_Ganj.png License:
CC BY-SA 4.0-3.0-2.5-2.0-1.0 Contributors: Image:Map of McLeod Ganj.svg Original artist: User:(WT-shared) Cacahuate
• File:Monastery_PrayerWheel.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/d2/Monastery_PrayerWheel.JPG Li-
cense: GFDL Contributors: Own work Original artist: User: (WT-shared) Jpatokal at wts wikivoyage
• File:Tibetan_flag.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/1e/Tibetan_flag.jpg License: CC BY-SA 4.0-3.0-2.5-
2.0-1.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: J. Miers - User: (WT-shared) Jtesla16 at wts wikivoyage

14.3 Content license

• Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0