Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Itinerary 2008 REIMS
Itinerary 2008 REIMS
REIMS
WJB = ‘St John Baptist de La Salle’ by WJ Battersby (St Mary's Press: re-printed 1965)
M: ‘SJBDLS Two Early Biographies’ by Maillefer & Bernard (Lasallian Publications, 1996)
LS: ‘The Work Is Yours’ by Luke Salm (2nd Edition, Christian Brothers Publications, 1996)
GENERAL INTRODUCTION
Before becoming the Cradle of the Institute, Reims had been the cradle of French
Christianity. Reims is one of the oldest and most historical towns in France. In early Roman
times, the town was the capital of the Celtic tribe, the Rémi.
The city (population 200,000; 30,000 in De La Salle’s day) lies 129 km (80 miles)
east-northeast of Paris on the banks of the small River Vesle in the wine growing region of
Champagne. Reims is particularly famous for its wines (subterranean Reims has 17 kms of
tunnels storing champagne and wine). Note that De La Salle’s mother was of the great Moët
family. For many centuries, the kings of France were crowned in this city and many
memorials remain to testify to its historical importance. Joan of Arc led the dauphin,
Charles VII to be crowned here on July 17, 1429. For a long time, the city was more
important than Paris. From the 4 th century it was the seat of a bishop, later, of an
archbishop, and the centre of efforts to evangelise the Franks. St Rémi, Archbishop of
Reims, baptised Clovis (king of the Salian Franks, making him the first Christian king of
France) and all his warriors on Christmas Day in 496, and so began the tradition of
anointing kings (that was to last until Charles X in 1825).
The number and size of Reim’s churches illustrate the town’s wealth and importance
in the Middle Ages, at which period the confines of the town formed an oval shape easily
discerned on modern maps. The walls and ramparts of medieval times can still be seen. In
World War I, as Reims lay within the battle zone, there were more than 5,000 casualties and
80% of the town was destroyed. In World War II, it suffered additional damage but less so
than in the previous war. The capitulation of the German forces in France was signed at
Reims on May 7, 1945 at 2:41 am.
The Hôtel de la Cloche (or Hôtel de La Salle or Maison Natale, as the house is
sometimes called) is situated at 40 Rue de l’Arbalète (Street of the Crossbow). It was built
in 1545 and bought by François de La Salle in 1609.
In this house, in 1650, there lived a family of magistrates. Louis de La Salle had a
Master of Law degree and was a municipal magistrate at the praesidium, an intermediary
court which handled various civil and criminal cases. In that year, 1650, he married Nicole
Moët de Brouillet (who was of the feudal nobility by birth, but she became of the
bourgeoisie through her marriage). The first child of their marriage was John Baptist de La
Salle, born April 30, 1651. He was to be the eldest of 11 children, 4 of whom died in
infancy. The first 13 years of his life were spent in this house.
The roof of the chapel had to be replaced after 1918. In the room to the right just as you
come out of the chapel are stored a number of items belonging to De La Salle, including his
paten (a large plate) and the water jug/cruet (both engraved with the family arms) that he is
thought to have used at his first Mass here (and possibly his chalice, too). WJB: p. 32
The tapestries that sometimes adorn the Cathedral itself are on display in the Palais, as
well as some coronation robes.
This palace was rebuilt between 1687 and 1692 under the episcopacy of Charles-
Maurice Le Tellier, a brother of the minister M. Louvois in Louis XIV’s government. 30
French kings had resided in this palace during their long coronation ceremonies. The
ornaments used are preserved here, as well as superb tapestries, and ‘reliquaries’ (elaborate
containers housing the relics of saints). Bombs severely damaged the Palais in the First
World War but it is now completely restored.
Its chapel dates back to 1230 and in this chapel the 11 year-old John Baptist de La Salle
received the clerical tonsure on March 11, 1662. Here he was also ordained to the minor
orders on March 17, 1668 and ordained to the priesthood on Holy Saturday, April 9, 1678.
The chapel had been re-constructed into a show-piece by Le Tellier and De La Salle's
surroundings for his ordination were more magnificent than they had been for the kings
crowned there. De La Salle was subjected to many a humiliation in this Palais at the hands of
Le Tellier who could not understand the canon's desire to divest himself of his position as
canon (with its promise of ecclesiastical advancement and revenues). De La Salle received Le
Tellier's approval for the Sisters of the Child Jesus here.
When for a short time (1686 or 1687) De La Salle succeeded in having Brother Henri
I'Heureux made Superior over him, the Archbishop immediately let his displeasure be known.
De La Salle obeyed the Archbishop and again took up direction of the young Institute
himself.
Bibliotheque Carnegie
Standing in the garden of the Archbishop’s Palace (or on the Cours Anatole France,
adjacent) one can look across at the neighbouring Bibliotheque Carnegie (post-918) and see
inscribed on the frieze beside the names of famed French writers and philosophers, those of
Colbert, Le Tellier, and De La Salle. De La Salle's name is partly concealed, but is to be found
in the corner, near Le Tellier's name at the corner of the Rue Voltaire.
Cathedral of Notre-Dame de Reims
Reims Cathedral, like that of Paris and Rouen, is consecrated to Our Lady. It is
considered one of the most beautiful Gothic structures in the world. Under the cathedral, traces
of three others have been found, dating from the 5 th (401) the 9th and the 12th centuries.
Artillery shells in World War I severely damaged the cathedral. A central tower, then
destroyed, has not been re-built. It was here in the 5 th century that St Rémi baptized King
Clovis, and it is the place where most of the French Kings have been crowned. The actual
building was begun in 1211. The west front, which is covered with some of the finest
specimens of Gothic statues and reliefs, has three very fine portals with a large and
beautiful rose window above them. Above the rose window is a royal gallery and above this
two towers soar to the height of 270 feet.
The interior of the cathedral is striking in its proportions: 455 feet long, 125 feet high and
98 feet wide. Much of the old glass has been destroyed, but the rose window is still impressive. In
niches on the west wall are over 100 statues, mostly of the 13 th century. Of all statues, note
particularly that of the Glorification of the Virgin and, at the left porch, that of L'Ange au
Sourire (the smiling Angel).
The Chapter House recalls the Chapter Room where De La Salle, Roland and the
other canons counselled the Archbishop.
It was on January 7, 1667 that he entered the cathedral through the magnificent main
portal to take possession of stall 21 which his relative, Pierre Dozet, had resigned in his favour.
The choir stalls are not the originals. They were replaced in 1745. The original misericord is
now in Hôtel de La Salle (WJB: pp. 11, 15). From this cathedral, 2 canons became saints, 4
others popes, 14 archbishops, 37 bishops and 23 cardinals. De La Salle remained a canon
till August 16, 1683 when Archbishop Le Tellier finally accepted his resignation.
De La Salle celebrated his first Mass after ordination on Easter Sunday April 10,
1678 in what is now the Lady Chapel, the first on the left. In this chapel is another statue
of the Founder by Lejeune. Some relics of the Founder are now kept in the main altar of the
cathedral.
In the square outside the cathedral there is a statue of St Joan of Arc, commemorating
her presence at the coronation of Charles VII on July 17, 1429. On the north side of the square is
the Palace of Justice, with the Theatre beside it. Across the Rue de Chanzy from the Theatre, is
the 18th century Abbey of Saint Denis, which now houses the Museé des Beaux-Arts (Museum of
Fine Arts). North of the Cathedral across the Rue Carnot, is the Place du Forum, the site of the
Roman Forum. From here, the Rue Colbert, named after the great Finance Minister, leads to
the Hôtel de Ville (City Hall), a handsome Renaissance building of the 17th century. North of
this again lies the Porte de Mars (Gate of Mars), a Roman triumphal arch of the 2nd century.
In the following year, 1680, on the feast of St John the Baptist, De La Salle
welcomed them to his own table and, one year later, on the advice of Father Nicolas Barré, he
welcomed them completely into his own home for board, lodging and religious practice.
The first teacher to die was a Christophe who died in this house on May 24, 1682 in the
arms of De La Salle.
In June 1682, the house on the Rue Sainte Marguerite was sold. By that time De La Salle's
sisters and brothers had already left the house except for Jean-Louis who remained with the
pioneer teachers and the company of priests who frequented the De La Salle house. We do not
know how many of the original group of teachers followed De La Salle to the rented house in
the Rue Neuve, but evidently there were no more than five.
Rue de La Salle
The less than impressive Rue de La Salle was so-named in 1842 (formerly called the
Rue Pidarde) “to preserve, conjointly, the memory of John Baptist de La Salle and that of M.
Felix Rivals de La Salle, whose valuable library was bequeathed by him to the city of Reims during
the last century” (Journal of Reims, 1-3 Dec. 1841; Ms 1896).
Chapter Door
You will see the doorway (from the Rue Carnot side) of the old Place du Chapitre
known to Canon De La Salle.
“You must devote yourself very thoroughly to prayer in order to succeed in your ministry. You
must constantly represent the needs of your disciples to Jesus Christ, explaining to him the
difficulties you experience in guiding them. Jesus Christ, seeing that you regard him as the
one who can do everything and yourself as an instrument to be moved only by him, will not fail to
grant you what you ask”.
(MTR 4)
“Try to find in prayer your consolation in times of aridity because then you will find God in it
in a purer way. Persist in it with faith and constancy during aridity and darkness, even though
at such times you find no attraction to it. This is a very profitable and sanctifying state to be
in... If you cannot pray, tell God that you cannot, and remain at rest... in your nothingness
before him, as one incapable of anything at all; that will be your prayer.”
(quoted p. 227 of 'Announcing the Gospel')
Carmelite Monastery
Numbers 90-94 Rue du Barbâtre. It is built on the site of the old monastery of the
Carmelite Friars, who again occupy part of the building (the doorway onto the street from the
Cathedral side of the town leads through a small garden to a small oratory for 3 or 4 people).
Here, Father Nicolas Roland used to make his private annual retreats.
The Brothers lived here for 30 years: 1806-1836 and the Superior General to be, Brother
Philippe, was Director from 1819-1822.
LAON
WJB: pp. 90, 118; LS: pp. 36, 41, 55, 70, 96, 101, 120, 173 and 176
Laon, our destination, is 45 km northwest of Reims. The N44 from the heart of Reims
leads directly to Laon. This capital of the Department of Aisne is situated on a narrow ridge in
the midst of a fertile plain. Part of the town is on the ridge, another part is 300 feet down a
deep hollow (the two joined by a rack railway or by a flight of 263 steps).
Laon Cathedral (12th-14th centuries) served as a model for other cathedrals in Europe. It is
famous for the “bulls” in the towers.
In 1682, NyeI left Guise and, in doing so, would have caused its ruin had not De La Salle
stepped in. Nyel did not make satisfactory arrangements for the school at Laon but, with the
intervention of the parish priest, Fr. Guyart, the school remained open.
In 1687, the Director of the Guise school fell ill, beyond cure, the doctors said. He
expressed the wish to see De La Salle before he died. A messenger was dispatched to Laon
(midway between Guise and Reims) and another messenger covered the remaining distance.
De La Salle then set out on foot with a young Brother at 1:00 pm on a hot summer's day. He
stopped at an inn at nightfall then set out again at 3:00 am. But, fasting and being tired, when he
reached Laon he was near collapse. The Brothers at Laon insisted that he complete the journey
by horse. As soon as the dying Brother saw De La Salle, he declared himself cured and, being fully
recovered in a few days, this was considered a miracle.
In 1688, another two Brothers fell ill, this time at Laon, one critically. De La Salle
(who at this time, due to the troubles in Paris, had secretly left Reims and had gone to the
monastery of the Carmelites at Louviers, where he gave himself up to prayer) was called from
retreat and gave the Last Rites before the Brother died. On seeing the exhaustion of the Brothers
there, De La Salle (on the advice of the doctor) closed the school for two months.
It was here in Laon that Gabriel Drolin once taught.
With the “connivance” of the Municipality and the help of the parents, the Brothers
continued their work here during the Revolution.
LIESSE
Notre-Dame-de-Liesse (Our Lady, Cause of our Joy)
M: p. 286; LS: p. 43
Notre-Dame de Liesse, a centre of Marian pilgrimage, is situated about 45 km north-west
of Reims. We proceed along the N44 (towards Laon) for some 30 km. We take a right turn at
the village of Aubigny-en-Laonnois, then travel directly north for 12 km through open
country and villages. (Alternately, we travel the 45 km direct to Laon and the 10 km north-east
along the main road N37).
De La Salle often covered this distance on foot as a pilgrim. He sent Adrien Nyel here
in March 1679, advising him to make this pilgrimage, and after that to attempt the opening of a
first school.
De La Salle made Our Lady the “superior” of his young Institute: “I want Mary to be the
Director and Queen of our schools.”
The day after Trinity Sunday, 1686, when the Founder and the Brothers took their
first vows, they made the pilgrimage to Liesse and again pronounced the vows at the foot of the
statue of Our Lady, Cause of our Joy (the black Madonna).
De La Salle visited Liesse on his visits to the communities of Laon and Guise.
The Church is now a minor basilica. The second chapel to the left is dedicated to De La
Salle. The stained-glass window was offered by the Superior General, Brother Gabriel-Marie,
after his cure of serious tuberculosis, a cure which was attributed to Our Lady of Liesse. Several
commemorations are made within this church. A beautiful window depicts De La Salle
kneeling with five Brothers before Notre-Dame de Liesse. The inscription on the window
reads: “1684: St John Baptist de La Salle consecrated his Brothers to N.D. de Liesse.” This
event is also commemorated on a plaque; another plaque under the statue of De La Salle recalls
the consecration of the Institute in 1902. Further: “30 June 1934: The members of the
General Chapter, gathered for the election of Brother Junien Victor, came to N.D. de Liesse
with the homage of 18,000 Brothers of the Institute on the anniversary of the consecration
made by our Founder.”
Brother Athanase-Emile, Superior General, accompanied by a delegation made the
same act of homage in 1951, the year of the Tri-centenary.
One of the orders of Sisters in Liesse village is that of Father Nicolas Barré, the Sisters of
the Infant Jesus (also called the Dames of St Maur).
In the sacristy of the basilica are tiled plaques for sale of most patron saints.
You offered yourself to God when you left the world. Can it be said that you kept nothing
back? Have you given yourself totally to his service? You ought not to rest content with
having once given yourself to God. You should renew this offering every day, and consecrate
all your actions to God by doing them all for his sake.
(Med. 104)
BROUILLET
WJB: pp. 1, 5; M: pp. 21, 77, 200, 203, 227, 273; LS: p. 8
Guibert, author of the "Histoire de Saint Jean-Baptiste de La Salle" for the
Canonization in 1900, may have been the first to suggest that the young Jean-Baptiste used to
visit his grandparents at Brouillet. There is a paragraph in the introduction to his book which,
translated, is as follows: "It was in 1555 that a Nicolas Moët bought the territory of Brouillet
and became its Seigneur. But the Moët family did not take up residence there but used it only as
an occasional place to visit. Only a century later did Jean Moët take over the property as
his permanent residence: the transaction is to be found in the deeds dated 1662. Many
times, no doubt, Jean-Baptiste de La Salle accompanied his venerable grandfather to the
country retreat at Brouillet and there received from him lessons and examples of piety.”
More detailed information about Brouillet is given by Aroz, first in CL 26, pp. 131-138
and then (reworking the same material) in CL 41.1, pp. 76-78. e.g., the domain of Brouillet, from
which Jean Moët derived his title of nobility, was not inconsiderable. Its existence is attested
from 1501. It was then a mere cottage dwelling belonging to Pierre de Thuisy who sold it to
Nicolas Moët in 1555. According to a lease drawn up between the latter and a certain Lasnier
family, the property had become “a thatched house, courtyard and garden situated in the village
of Brouillet... with another house and twenty acres of land in Foligny.” Both
properties were enlarged by Philippe Moët and were described in 1632 as “a house situated in
the village of Brouillet consisting of a main front block of living rooms, kitchen, basement-
storerooms, and attics, the roof pitched and covered with flat tiles. In addition to this main
building there are thatched stables and a tile-covered dovecote.” Jean Moët inherited the
property from Philippe, his father, and defended his rights as possessor against the claim of
Simon de France and certain villagers.
An agreement signed April 30, 1658 settled the rival claims and recognized M. de
Brouillet's honorific position with regard to the (Brouillet) church - which gave him a “bench
at the right side of the church and above” that of M. de France. “The bench to be of sufficient
length to accommodate the said Sieur de Brouillet, his wife and his family… the said M. de
France to have his bench some distance below according to his rank as bourgeois.”
These clauses, simple as they are, would suffice to prove the presence of Jean Moët at
Brouillet. But there are others more conclusive. In 1662, in a sales contract to a Marie
Desnoilles, Jean Moët is described as “the Seigneur de Brouillet, his place of residence.” For eight
years at least (1662-1670), he spent a part of each year at this country property. Jean Moët was
married to Perrette Lespagnol. On more than one such occasion, no doubt, the kindly and
religious-minded grandfather invited his grandson (who was also his godson) to spend some
time at Brouillet. Together they would have explored the grounds, the woods, the sheepfolds
and the outhouses, making a survey of the surrounding countryside.
"Orphans since April 8, 1672, Jean-Baptiste de La Salle and his sisters and brothers
were blessed with the tender love of their maternal grandmother, Perrette Lespagnol, whose
ways and virtues kept them in mind of their mother's. No doubt, they loved to gather around
her and to accompany her to the little village church, saying their prayers along with her,
devoutly kneeling, like her, at the foot of the altar at a place where a tablet would one day mark
the spot where her husband's heart, at his wish, would be buried. For Jean Moët loved the
land-workers and farm-hands of Brouillet. He was noble not only by title but, still more, by the
virtuous qualities that adorned his life...”
A wall tablet on the right hand wall, near the sanctuary, has the following epitaph:
TO THE MEMORY OF/MESSIRE JEAN MOËT, SEIGNEUR DE BROUILLET/ AND,
PART, OF DUGNY, LOUVERGY, BRONVILLE ETC./SON OF MESSIRE PHILLIPE
MOËT, AND GRAND/SON OF MESSIRE NICOLAS MOËT ALSO SEIGNEUR/ OF THE
SAID PLACES/ WHO, AFTER HAVING MADE/MANY GIFTS TO THIS CHURCH
DURING/ HIS LIFE WISHED THAT HIS HEART BE BURIED HERE. / HE DIED IN THIS
ESTATE OF BROUILLET ON /27 JULY 1670 AGED 71. HIS HEART/ IS INTERRED
AT THE FOOT OF THE ALTAR OF THIS/ CHURCH AND HIS BODY IN THE
CHURCH OF ST HILAIRE/ IN REIMS IN THE TOMB OF HIS ANCESTORS. AND (to
the memory) OF MESSIRE NICOLAS MOËT SEIGNEUR DE / BROUILLET AND, IN
PART OF OTHER/PLACES, (Jean's) SON, WHO DIED ON 25/ MAY 1706 AGED 74 AND
IS BURIED /AT REIMS IN THE SAID TOMB OF HIS ANCESTORS. PRAY TO GOD FOR
THE REPOSE OF THEIR SOULS.
A few centimetres to the right of the epitaph is a portrait, the one by Leger, of Jean-
Baptiste de La Salle, a very modest affair of 18 x 24 cm, linking the names of godson and
godfather, of nobleman and saint. Everything is humble in this 15th century church with its modest
bell-tower; likewise in this tiny village where flows the Brouillet, a stream finding its way into
the Ardre, a tributary of the Marne; humble too, now, the Moët residence, existing since the
15th century but now in a state of dilapidation: a magnificent staircase giving access to the
master bedroom, and a great dovecote are the only remaining vestiges of its ancient splendour.
Jean Moët died at Brouillet, July 27, 1670, as the epitaph above assures us. The death-
certificate, drawn up at Reims, gives the date as July 28. The burial took place on the 31st. The
time between the death and the burial would support the accuracy of the epitaph date.
- Articles in the Irish District Newsletter by Bro Bernadine Doyle: Reims, Paris
With sincere thanks to Bro Edwin Bannion, FSC for his extensive research and his
clarification of many points.