гзовое оборудование PDF

TOLL FREE: 1-866-764-7278
(PNG-PARTS)
Contents include:
● Converters
● Fittings
● LPG Conversion Kits

● Repair Kits
● Safety Equipment
● Service Manual
● Much More...
Hello and welcome to the new edition of PNG Technologies Parts Catalog / Service Manual for non
certified systems.
We hope you find all of your needs within. Please do not hesitate to contact us with any ques-
tions regarding parts and/or service.
You may reach us by phoning toll free 1-866-764-7278.
Words from our Owner
First let me introduce myself. I am Matthew L. Nolff and have been working in the after-market/
OEM industries since childhood.
I have had the great pleasure of working with some of the industries leading forefathers, such as
my father Robert Lee Nolff. I have also had the opportunity to work with Robert Rude along with
Herbert Hills who was one of the first to introduce propane power systems in vehicles including
lift trucks.
PNG Technologies can offer your mechanics the technical support they deserve to keep your cus-
tomers up and running.
PNG Technologies—Building Metal Shop Parts Department
Shipping Department Sales Department Front Office
G-50 Test Bench Conversion Shop Kit Assembly Area

PARTS PAGE
Accessories 4-5
Aisan 6
Algas/Impco 7
Beam/Impco 8-9
Brackets 10-11
Carburetors & Accessories (Carburetors/Throttle Bodys/Mixers/Adaptors/Levers/Bell Tops/Air Filters) 12-18
Electric 19-20
Electric Solenoids 21
Fittings 22-26
Garretson/Impco 27
Generic Impco 28-30
Governors 31
Hoses & Fittings 32-35
Impco 36-38
Impco Spectrum 39
LPG Conversion Kits 40-56
LPG Carb Spec Sheet 57
LPG Tanks 58-59
Rego 60-61
Safety (Strobe Lights/Backup Alarms/Hour Meters and more) 62-65
Zenith 66
LP-Gas Carburetion Service Manual 67-113
Schematics/Misc. Information 114-142
Repair Kit Instructions

Model J Series 143-149
Model VFF30 Series 150-157
Model E Series 158-168
Model 50 Series 169-172
Miscellaneous Forms
Order Form 173
Credit Application 174
Products in this catalog are available directly from PNG Technologies

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
Visit us on the web: www.pngtechnologies.com
3
ACC-711 ACC-RK-711
Large Bulkhead Filter Repair Kit For
ACC-711 ACC-T444
Bulkhead 1/4” NPT
3 Way Tee
ACC-713 ACC-RK-713 ACC-156 ACC-RK-156

Extra Large Repair Kit For Bulkhead Filter W/ Repair Kit For
BulkheadFilter ACC-713 Magnet 180° 1/4” NPT ACC-156
ACC-A6820
1-3/4” C-To-C ACC-26
Standard Fuel Return Spring
Pump Cover Universal
W/ Gasket
ACC-3866
Three Way Valve ACC-DASH-POD
Back Check Dash Pod Nissan
W/ Relief W/ Hex Nut
(For Dual Tanks) (Fast Idle Control)
ACC-155
ACC-365 Inline Filter
Trap It Filter 1/4” M x 1/4” F
(Keep Debris From (Keep Debris From
Entering Fuel System) Entering Fuel System)

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
4
CLAMP-6
Hose Clamp
ACC-THERM-3/8”
3/16” to 1/4”
Forklift Thermostat
Inline 3/8” NPT
Keeps Regulator From CLAMP-7
Over Heating
Hose Clamp
5/16” to 7/8”
CLAMP-8 CLAMP-10
Hose Clamp Hose Clamp
ACC-THERM-5/8” 9/16” to 1-1/16” 2-1/16” to 3”
Forklift Thermostat
Inline 5/8” Push On CLAMP-9 CLAMP-408
Keeps Regulator From Hose Clamp Hose Clamp
Over Heating
11/16” to 1-1/4” 2-5/16” to 3-1/4”
ACC-700 ACC-102
Spacer Flange Slic-Tite Heavy Duty
2-1/4” C-to-C Thread Sealing
Compound
ACC-701 1/4 Fl. Oz.
Spacer Flange ACC-709
2-3/8” C-to-C Spacer Flange
1-1/2” SAE ACC-103
C-to-C 1-13/16” Heavy Duty
ACC-702 Thread Sealing
Spacer Flange Compound
ACC-701-53-44
1-1/4” SAE 8.45 Fl. Oz. (250ml)
53mm Spacer Flange
C-to-C 2-11/16”
H20/Mazda 4.121/VA
ACC-TS-8” ACC-TS-4”
Plastic Tie Strap 8” Plastic Tie Strap 4” ACC-224-2
Dash Mount, 2 Hole
ACC-TS-14”
Plastic Tie Strap 14”
ACC-PR4604
PR-4604
Electric Primer
For JB,EB

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
5
AI-23530-U110371 AI-23580-U110371
Aisan Aisan
Regulator Regulator
AI-23530-U220071 AI-23580-U220071
Aisan Regulator Aisan Regulator
W/ Out Fuel W/ Fuel
Warning System Warning System

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
6
ALGAS-C250A ALGAS-SA2553-2
Water Cooled 80 & 90 Mixer
Converter Diaphragm
Silicone
ALGAS-1-7010 ALGAS-SA2330-2
Repair Kit For C250A 60 Mixer
W/ Out Power Ram Diaphragm
(Minor) Silicone
ALGAS-1-7012
Repair Kit For
C250A/C250AH
W/ Power Ram
(Major)

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
7
BEAM-120A BEAM-120A-RCK
Major Repair Kit For
Regulator/
120A Reg/Con.
Converter
Hydrin
BEAM-120A-RBK
Minor Repair Kit For OEM PART #’S
120A Reg/Con. MBMIC-
Hydrin CT971671 0053410 YT05894300
BEAM-T60 OEM PART #’S

T60 Regulator/
CT2W4392 CT971593 HY3004384
Converter
MBMIC-
0053421 YT063771700
BEAM-60RBK
Minor Repair Kit For OEM PART #’S
T60 Regulator MBMIC-
Hydrin HY3005454 0053310 YT064802600

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
8
BEAM-202ANLC
Low Pressure
BEAM-202ANL
Natural Gas Low Pressure
Natural Gas
W/ Primer
BEAM-1501L
BEAM-202RBK Micro Vacuum
Repair Kit For 202 Switch
Regulator
Hydrin
OEM PART #’S
CT910054 DW910054
BEAM-418-12V
12V Electric
BEAM-FL219
12V Electric
Lockoff/
Lockoff
Large Filter
BEAM-RKFLK-219
Repair Kit For
FL219

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
9
BRKT-TB-2-
BRKT-38
Universal Bracket For
60T
Regulator/Lockoff Toggle Clamp
For Toyota
BRKT-98 BRKT-TB-2
Gas Sending Horizontal
Cover Plate—Large Tank Bracket
BRKT-99 BRKT-TB-3
Gas Sending Vertical
Cover Plate—Small Tank Bracket
BRKT-119 BRKT-667
Universal Throttle Cable
Mounting Bracket For Bracket For Toyota
JB & VFF 4P/4Y/5K Engine
BRKT-260
U Shaped Universal BRKT-97
Bracket For Hose Clamp Bracket
Model J & VFF-30

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
10
BRKT-2099-A
Universal Bridge BRKT-76
Plate Assembly— Universal Bracket
No Drilling/ For JB & VFF
Counter Weight
BRKT-269 BRKT-92
Square Washer Universal Bracket
For BRKT-2099-A For JB & VFF
BRKT-TB2-60 OEM PART #’S

Toggle Clamp
AC491751 AC4991752 AC4991753 BKTB2-60 CL747729
CT311011 CT9326501430 DW311011 HY163446 HY196297

MBMIC- MB93265-
0053084 01430 NILPG00-TB602 WM35P3134 YT058880100
BRKT-19
Throttle Return
Spring Bracket

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
11
CARBURETORS
CARB-CA55-171 CARB-CA55-542
For Toyota 4, 5, 6 & 7
Carburetor For
Series W/ 4Y Engine.
Toyota 4P Or 5R Engine
Also Fits Mazda
2 Stud Air Horn
FE Engine
2-3/8” C-C
2 Stud Air Horn
CARB-746
CA100 Upgrade For All
Nissan H20-II/H25 CARB-677
Engines W/ For TB42
83mm Intake. Nissan Engine
30mm SAE Flange 2-11/16” C-C
83mm C-C Offset
2-1/16” Air Horn
CARB-CA125-76-2
Nissan H20 Old Style CARB-675A
1-1/4” SAE Flange Nissan H-20 Eng.
2-11/16” C-C 53mm C-C
80mm Air Horn CA100 Version
(Could Also Have 4 2-1/16” Air Horn
Bolt Pattern)
CARB-MI125
CARB-CA100-124 Impco MI-125,
F01-NF02 Nissan H20/A15 Nissan Eng.
J-15 Engine 53mm C-C
43mm C-C

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
12
CARBURETORS
CARB-MI131 CARB-CA100-64G
H20, CA55 Series Carburetor
Old Style—Replaces Mitsubishi
CARB-CA125-76-2 4G53/54/63/64
CARB-107
CARB-MI173 LP Carburetor
H20II/25
Waukesha
CA55 Version
D155/176 Engine

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
13
THROTTLE BODYS
G-AT2-3
Throttle Body G-AT2-16-1
1-1/4” SAE, 2-11/16” C-C Throttle Body
1-1/4” & 1-1/2”
G-AT2-4-2 SAE Flange
Throttle Body 2-11/16”-2-15/16” C-C
1-1/2” SAE, 2-15/16” C-C
IMP-AT2-25
3/4” SAE Flange,
IMP-AT2-1
2-1/4” C-C
3/4” SAE Flange
2-1/4” C-C IMP-AT2-26
1” SAE Flange, 2-3/8” C-C
G-AT2-2-5
1” SAE Flange
2-3/8” C-C IMP-AT2-27 IMP-AT2-44
1-1/4” SAE Flange, 53mm C-C Flange
2-11/16” C-C
G-AB1-24-1
Throttle Body,
IMP-BT2-11 2 Barrel, No Flange
1-1/4” Duplex Flange Fits:
1-7/8” x 3-3/4” C-C IMP-BT2-11
IMP-BT2-12
G-BT2-13
G-BT2-13
IMP-BT2-12 Duplex Flange Holly
1-1/2” Duplex Flange W/ Gasket
2” x 3-11/16” C-C 3-7/16” x 5-1/8” C-C

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
14
MIXERS
IMP-CA55-256L
Impco CA55-256L
1-7/8” AH W/ Lifter
IMP-CA125
Impco CA125M-2
IMP-CA55-258L
Mixer Assembly
Impco CA55-258L
ONLY
2-1/16” Air Horn,
2-1/16” Hose,
Dual Fuel, W/ Lifter
IMP-CA100M-1 IMP-CA55M-1
Impco CA100M-1 Impco CA55M-1
Mixer, 1-1/2”Airhorn 1-1/2” Mixer
IMP-CA100M-2 IMP-CA55M-2
Impco CA100M-2 Impco CA55M-2
Mixer, 1-7/8”Airhorn 1-5/8” Mixer
IMP-CA100M-3 IMP-CA100M-4 IMP-CA55M-4 IMP-CA55M-5

Impco CA100M-3 Impco CA100M-4 Impco CA55M-4 Impco CA55M-5
Mixer, 2-1/16”Airhorn Mixer, 2-5/16”Airhorn 1-7/8” Mixer 2-1/16” Mixer
IMP-CA300M
Mixer for Dual Fuel IMP-CA200M-1 IMP-CA200M-2
Operations of Gasoline/LP Impco 200M-1 Impco 200M-2
Engines—100-400 CID 2-5/8” Air Horn 3-1/16” Air Horn
IMP-FT60M-3-3 IMP-CA225M IMP-CA55M-500

Impco FT60M-3-3 Impco 225M Impco
Tamper Mixer, 2-1/16” Air Horn Mixer, Hydrin CA55M-500 Mixer

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
15
ADAPTERS
G-A9-7 G-A3-31
Nissan H20 Carburetor Adapter Adapter, 2-5/16” Air Horn G-A2-38
2-11/16”, 53mm O.D., Fiber Adapter 1-7/8” Air Horn
For CARB-675A
G-A2-39
Adapter 2-1/16” Air Horn
G-A2-41
Adapter 2-5/16” Air Horn
G-A2-35
Impco A2-35 Adapter, Air Horn,
Toyota, CA55-500 Series G-A2-59
4P & 5R Engine 43mm Air Horn, CA55-500
G-AA3-32-1
Adapter Assy.
CA100M/CA200M
For G-AB1-24-1
(see page 14)
G-AS3-10 G-AA3-32-2
90° Adapter Cross Flange Adapter Assy. CA100
G-A2-39-1
For CA100/CA125 Mixers Throttle Body To CA200 Mixer
Adapter 2-1/16” O.D.
2-1/2” Long, Fiber
G-A3-28
Adapter 3-1/16” Hose
CA200M/CA225M
IMP-AB4-1
G-A3-30 IMP-AB4-2 AB4-1 Bracket Assemby
Bracket Assembly Boden Wire Boden Wire
Adapter 2-5/8” Hose
CA100M/CA125M CA200M/CA225M Series
CA200M/CA225M

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
16
LEVERS
G-AL1-25-1
Spring Loaded G-AL1-31
Lever Assy, Lever Assy.
1/4” Shaft 1/4” Shaft Clamp
G-AL1-25-2 G-AL1-33
Spring Loaded Lever Assy.
Lever Assy. 5/16” Shaft Clamp
5/16” Shaft
IMP-AL1-26-1
Impco AL1-26-1 G-AL1-31-124
Lever Assembly Lever Assy. W/ Swivel
Floating, 1/4” Shaft Clamp
1/4” Shaft J15 Engine
IMP-AL1-27-1
Impco AL1-27-1 G-AL1-33-76
Lever Assembly Lever Assy. W/ Swivel
Floating, 5/16” Shaft H20 Engine
5/16” Shaft
SHAFTS/BALL STUDS
G-S3-31 G-S3-34
G-S5-2 1/4” Ball, Stud 5/16” Ball, Stud
Throttle Shaft, 5/16” Dia., 5” Long 10-32 Thread 1/4-28 Thread
G-S5-6
Throttle
Throttle Shaft, 1/4” Dia., 4-3/4” Long
Return
Spring
G-S5-7
Throttle Shaft, 5/16” Dia., 5-1/4” Long G-AS2-50-1
1/4” Shaft
G-S2-50
G-S5-11 G-AS2-50-2 Return
Throttle Shaft, 5/16” Dia., 6-1/8” Long Spring
5/16” Shaft

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
17
BELL TOPS/AIR FILTERS
CA125 CA225
BELLTOPS BELLTOPS
G-C1-4
C1-4 Cover For G-F1-8
G-A2-7 G-A2-2
2-5/8” Air Horn 5-1/8” Air Horn
G-A2-3
G-A2-8 2-5/8” Air Horn
2-5/16” Air Horn
G-F1-8
G-A2-6 Filter Element
3-1/16” Air Horn For CA300 Mixer
G-A2-9
2-7/32” Air Horn
IMP-A2-33
80mm Air Horn
G-F1-15
IMP-A2-34 Air Filter For G-F1-1
54mm Air Horn CA425 Mixer Or CA450 Filter Element
Mixer 400CFM For CA225 Mixer
G-F4-2 IMP-C1-28 G-F1-5

Vacuum Fitting Air Filter Filter Element
1/4”-28-1/4” Hose Cover For G-F1-5 For CA125 Mixer

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
18
ELEC-45 ELEC-52
BN-SR80 Ring Tongue
Nylon Receptacle Terminal For 3/8-18
18-22 Gauge Gauge-Nylon
18-22 Gauge
ELEC-46-1 ELEC-54
Female 16-14 Gauge
Quick Disconnect Ins. Connector
18-22 Gauge 18-22 Gauge
ELEC-46 ELEC-56
Male T250 T-Top
Quick Disconnect Connector
18-22 Gauge 18-22 Gauge
ELEC-47
BP-SP56
Male
ELEC-73-1
20 Amp Fuse
Bullet Connector
18-22 Gauge
ELEC-49
BP-R10 Ring ELEC-73
Tongue Terminal GFH Glass
18-22 Gauge Fuse Holder

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
19
ELEC-76
AP-R65
ELEC-250
16 Gauge
18-22 Gauge
Wire—Red
Ring Terminal
ELEC-77 ELEC-253
BP-R145 16 GPT
18-22 Gauge Wire—Yellow
ELEC-94
Toggle Switch ELEC-254
3-way 16 Gauge
(On-Off-On) Wire—Black
ELEC-257 ELEC-255
SL-14 14 Gauge
1/4” Wire—White
Split Loom

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
20
LOCKOFF-111 LOCKOFF-151
12V Gasoline LP-Gas Shutoff Solenoid
Shutoff Valve W/ Out Barrier Strip
1/8” NPT 1/4” NPT
LOCKOFF-152
LOCKOFF-121 Inline LP
12V Electric Solenoid Filter Shutoff
180° 1/4” NPT W/ Out Ground Coil
1/4” NPT
LOCKOFF-123 LOCKOFF-173
12V Electric Solenoid 1/2” Electric Low &
90° 1/4” NPT High Pressure 90°
LOCKOFF-142 LOCKOFF-418B
12V Solenoid Valve Filter Lockoff Valve
LP Gas Filter Shutoff 1/4” NPT
1/4” NPT Larger Filter Capacity
LOCKOFF-RK142
Filter & O-Ring
For Lockoff 142

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
21
FITT-1/8-1011—1/8” Pipe Slotted Head Plug
FITT-1/4-1155—1/4” Pipe Slotted Head Plug
FITT-1/4-1101—1/4” Male Pipe Plug Hex Head
FITT-3/8-1301—3/8” Male Pipe Plug Hex Head
FITT-1/8-1018—1/8” Pipe Coupling
FITT-1/4-1102—1/4” Pipe Coupling
FITT-1/8-1019—1/8” Pipe x 1/4 “Hose 90° Brass
FITT-1/8-1020—1/8” NPT x 3/8” Vac 90° Brass
FITT-1/8-1021—1/8” NPT x 3/16” Hose, Elbow, Brass
FITT-1/8-1016—1/8” NPT x 3/16” Hose I.D. Hose Barb
FITT-1/8-1017—1/8” Pipe x 1/4” Hose 180° Brass
FITT-1/8-1032—1/8” Pipe x 5/16” Hose Barb
FITT-1/8-1002—1/8” Pipe 45°, Street Elbow
FITT-1/4-1106—1/4” Pipe 45° Street Elbow
FITT-1/8-1001—1/8” Pipe Street Tee

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
22
FITT-3/8-1306—3/8” Pipe x 5/8” Hose Elbow
FITT-1/4-1103—1/4” Pipe x 5/8” Hose Beaded Barb Elbow
FITT-1/4-0059—1/4” NPT x 1/2” Hose Brass Elbow
FITT-1/2-1409—1/2” Pipe x 5/8” Hose Beaded Barb Elbow
FITT-1/8-1041—1/8” Pipe x 1/4” Tube 45° Elbow
FITT-3/8-1302—3/8” Pipe x 3/8” Tube 45° Elbow
FITT-1/4-1105—1/4” x 3/8” Flare 45° Brass
FITT-1/8-1038—1/8” Pipe x 1/4” Tube Male Elbow
FITT-1/4-1107—1/4” NPT x 3/8” Flare 90° Brass
FITT-3/8-1303—3/8” NPT Male x 3/8” Flare 90° Brass
FITT-1/2-1411—1/2” Pipe x 3/8” Tube Male Elbow
FITT-1/8-1004—1/8” Pipe Hex Nipple
FITT-1/8-1013—1/8” x 2” Long Nipple
FITT-1/8-1031—1/8” x 2-1/2” Long Nipple
FITT-1/4-1109—1/4” NPT Nipple
FITT-1/4-1110—1/4” NPT Male Pipe 2” Long Brass
FITT-1/4-1111—1/4” Pipe x 2-1/2” Long Nipple
FITT-1/2-2402—1/2” x 2” Black Nipple

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
23
FITT-1/4-1112—1/4” NPT Male x 1/4” NPT Female 90° Brass
FITT-1/2-1407—1/2” Pipe 90° Union Elbow
FITT-1/4-1100—1/4” Pipe x 1/8” Pipe Bushing
FITT-3/8-1300—3/8” Male Pipe x 1/4” Female Pipe Bushing
FITT-1/2-1401—1/2” Pipe NPT x 3/8” Pipe Bushing Brass
FITT-3/8-1305—3/8” NPT x 5/8” Hose Beaded Barb
FITT-3/8-1307—3/8” NPT x 1/2” Hose 180° Brass
FITT-3/8-1308—3/8” Pipe x 3/4” Hose Barb
FITT-1/2-1402—1/2” Pipe x 5/8” Beaded Hose Barb
FITT-1/2-1402-1—1/2” NPT x 5/8” Hose Nylon

Straight Hose Nipple
FITT-1/2-1408—1/2” Male Pipe x 1/2” Hose Barb
FITT-1/8-1044—1/8” Pipe Connector x 1/4” Tube
FITT-1/4-1108—1/4” Pipe x 3/8” Flare 180° Brass
FITT-3/8-1304—3/8” Pipe x 3/8” Flare 180° Brass
FITT-1/2-1410—1/2” Pipe x 3/8” Tube Male Connector
FITT-1/4-1125—1/4” Pipe x 3/8” Tube x 1/8” Female Pipe
(Used In SAFETY-LFK)
FITT-3/8-1329—3/8” Tube x 5/8”-18 Straight Thread

5/8” Hex Union

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
24
FITT-3/8-1338—3/8” Tube Union Tee
FITT-3/8-1339—3/8” Tube Cross
FITT-3/8-1320—3/8” Pipe x 5/8” Hose Barb 45° Elbow
FITT-1/8-1014—1/8” F-NPT 90° Union
FITT-1/4-1119—1/4” Pipe 90° Union Elbow
FITT-3/8-0020-1—3/8” NPT x 5/8” Hose I.D. Nylon Elbow
FITT-1/2-0021-1—1/2” NPT x 5/8” Hose I.D. Nylon Elbow
FITT-1-0033-1—1” NPT x 1” Hose Nylon Elbow
N-B-1000—5/16” x 18 x 1-1/4” Milled Stud Type A
N-B-1001—3/8-16 x 1-1/4” Milled Stud
N-B-0706—Metric Stud 75mm Double End
N-B-1103—1/4-20 x 3/4” Hex Head Bolt
N-B-1104—1/4-20 x 1” Hex Head Bolt
N-B-1105—1/4-20 x 1-1/4” Hex Head Bolt
N-B-1106—1/4-20 x 1-1/2” Hex Head Bolt
N-B-1107—1/4-20 x 1-3/4” Hex Head Bolt
N-B-1115—1/4-20 x 2” Z
N-B-1120—1/4-20 x 3” Z

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
25
N-B-1207—5/16-18” x 3/4” Hex Head Bolt
N-B-1208—5/16-18” x 1” Hex Head Bolt
N-B-1209—5/16” Hex Bolt 1-1/4” Long
N-B-1210—5/16-18” x 1-1/2” Hex Head Bolt
N-B-1100—1/4-20” Hex Finish Nut
N-B-1300—3/8”-16 Hex Finish Nut
N-B-1500—1/2” Nut
N-B-1101—1/4” Split Lock Washer
N-B-1102—1/4” SAE Flat Washer
N-B-1307—3/8-16” x 1” Hex Head Bolt
N-B-1308—3/8-16” x 1-1/4” Hex Head Bolt
N-B-1312—3/8-16” x 2” YZ8 Hex Head Bolt
N-B-1313—3/8-16” x 2-1/2” YZ8 Hex Head Bolt
N-B-1114—1/4-20” x 1/2” Flat Head Bolt Phillips Head
N-B-1133—12-24” x 3/4” Flat Head Screw
N-B-1310—3/8” Countersink Bolt

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
26
LP/Natural Gas
GARR-KN-2
Adapter For
Low Pressure
Small Engines
Regulator W/ Primer
*Call With Engine*
GARR-083-99
GARR-011-01 Model 083
Idle Control Repair Kit
For GARR-083-11
GARR-083-11
10 P.S.I. Air Cooled
GARR-RK074-99
Repair Kit For
Regulator For Liquid
S2 Regulator
Withdrawal Systems

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
27
G-JB-2
Model J Series - Blue Spring
Regulator/Vaporizer
Silicone
Two-Stage Converter
100 H.P. LP-Gas
W/ PRIMER BUTTON
OEM Part Numbers

(For G-JB-2)
Also available:
AC-4830760-7 HY196193 Promatch-7N0250
G-JO-2 AC-4884393 HY213549 TO-1W8462
Orange Spring Regulator/ AC-74830760 HY-3004376 TO-7N250
Vaporizer AC-74884393 HY-3004378 TO-9316503100
W/ PRIMER BUTTON ALC 4830760 HY-3004951 TO-9316513100
BK104544 LPG-1019 YAL 517079800
CAT-7N250 LPG-1020 YAL 530044800
**CASE LOT CL-2314377
CL-2360140
LPG-1265
LPG-1278
YAL 095002600
YT-5170798-00
SPECIALS** CT7N0250
CT7N250
LPM-2336000
MB93165-03100
TY-8050028
YT905002600
Call today!! HY-195193 MB93165-13100 UNIS 3052059
G-RK-J-2 G-VFF30-2
Silicone Repair Kit For Model VFF30 Series
Model J Series Vacuum Fuelock Filter
Silicone Silicone
G-RKVFF30-2 G-F1-10
RK-VFF-30-2 Silicone Filter Pad & Gasket
Repair Kit For the VFF30

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
28
G-EB-2 G-RK-EB-2
Model E Series Repair Kit For
Two-Stage Converter Model E Series
325 H.P. LP-Gas Silicone
Silicone
G-SE-KN-2 G-RK-LB
Low Pressure Regulator Repair Kit For
W/ Primer Button Model L Series
Silicone Hydrin
G-RK-CA50/55 G-RK-COBRA
Repair Kit Repair Kit For
For CA50/55 Series Cobra, Silicone
G-CA100M G-CA125M-2
CA100M Mixer CA125M-2 mixer
Less Air Horn Silicone Diaphragm
Silicone
*See Additional Bell Tops
*See Additional Air Horns On Page 18*
On Page 16*
G-AV1-14-4 G-RK-AV1-14-4
Air Valve For Repair Kit For
CA100/125 CA100/125
Carburetor Carburetor
Silicone Silicone

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
29
G-D1-17-2 G-CA200M-2
Air Valve Diaphragm CA200M Mixer
For CA100/125 Less Air Horn
Carburetor
*See Additional Air Horns
Silicone On Page 16*
G-AV1-12-2
G-D1-16-2 Air Valve For
Silicone Diaphragm CA200/225
200/225 Yellow Carburetor
Silicone
G-CA225M-2
CA225M-2 Mixer
G-CA300A-M-50
(Silicone) CA300A-M-50 Mixer
G-CA55M-500
CA50/55M-500 MIXER G-RK-CA300MA-2
RK300MA-1/20-2
*See Additional Air Horns Major Silicone
on Page 16*

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
30
GOV-TY-2F-3F
GOV-H20-II Governor Toyota 2F/3F
80mm, 3-1/8” Engine 2—11/16” C-C
Offset Governor
For Nissan H20-II
& H25 Engine OEM PART #’S
TY26300- TY26500- TY26300-
77004-71 7702-71 96051-71
GOV-H20-53mm
Governor Nissan Engine
53mm Intake
GOV-4P-5R
OEM PART #’S Governor, Toyota
4P/5R Engine
TCM-19100- NI19100- NI19100-
K9000 K900 OOH73
NI191- K019100-
00H01 K9000
GOV-MIT
Governor for Mitsubishi
4G54/4G63/4G64
Engines W/ Solex
Carb (4 Bolt Intake)
OEM PART #’S
3768087 MD190798

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
31
LPG HIGH PRESSURE HOSE & FITTINGS
FOR USA NOTE:
NOT Sold In
CANADA 25 FT. Section
HOSE-HP-#4 HOSE-HP-#6 HOSE-HP-#8
1/4” I.D. 5/16” I.D. (Most Common) 1/2” I.D.
FITT-1/4-14
1/4” Male x 3/8” Hose
SAE # 6
FITT-1/4-8
1/4” Tube x 1/4” Hose
SAE # 4
FITT-3/8-15 FITT-3/8-12
3/8” Tube x 3/8” Hose 3/8” Tube x 3/8” Hose
SAE # 6 SAE # 6 (90°)
(Most Common)
FITT-1/2-18
SAE # 8 FITT-3/8-13
SAE # 6 (45°)

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
32
1/4” WATER HOSE & FITTINGS
HOSE-WAT-1/4 FITT-1/4-2
1/4” Water 1/4” Female x 1/4” Hose Push Lock
(Sold In 25 Feet Increments)
FITT-1/4-48 FITT-1/4-1154
1/4” Pipe x 1/4” Hose Push Lock 1/4” Male x 1/4” Male Union Push Lock
HOSE-WAT-1/2 FITT-1/2-60
1/2” Water 1/2” Male x 1/2” Male Union Push Lock
HOSE-WAT-5/8
5/8” Water
FITT-5/8-46 ACC-WAT-Y-5/8”
5/8” Male x 5/8” Male Hose 5/8” x 5/8” x 5/8” Water Y-Nylon
Union Push Lock

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
33
HOSE-3/8
3/8” I.D Push Lock hose
FITT-3/8-6
3/8" Female x 3/8" Hose SAE
JIC 45° Swivel
FITT-1/2-7
1/2" Female x 3/8" Hose SAE JIC
45° Swivel
FITT-1/4-1
Push Lock
FITT-3/8-47
FITT-3/8-3 3/8” Tube x 3/8” Hose Push Lock (45°)
Push Lock
FITT-1/2-4
Push Lock FITT-3/8-45
3/8” Tube x 3/8” Hose Push Lock (90°)
FITT-3/8-5
3/8” Hose x 3/8” Hose
Hose Union

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
34
VAPOR HOSE W/ WIRE SUPPORT (Very Flexible)
NOTE: Sold In 25 FT. Section
HOSE-VAP-1/2 HOSE-VAP-3/4
1/2” I.D. Vapor Hose W/ Wire 3/4” I.D. Vapor Hose W/ Wire
HOSE-VAP-5/8 HOSE-VAP-1
5/8” I.D. Vapor Hose W/ Wire 1” I.D. Vapor Hose W/ Wire
VACUUM HOSE
NOTE: Sold In 50 FT. Section
HOSE-VAC-1/4 HOSE-VAC-5/32
1/4” I.D. Vacuum Hose 5/32” I.D. Vacuum Hose
HOSE-VAC-3/16 HOSE-VAC-7/32
3/16” I.D. Vacuum Hose 7/32” I.D. Vacuum Hose

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
35
IMP-JB IMP-RK-J
Impco JB Repair Kit For
Hydrin Diaphragm Impco Model JB
-No Primer Button Hydrin
**SEE PAGE 27 FOR GENERIC VERSION W/ PRIMER BUTTON!**
IMP-PJ
Positive Pressure
Model J IMP-VFF30
Impco VFF-30 Lockoff
Repair Kit: Filter Hydrin
IMP-RK-PJ
(Not Shown)
IMP-VFF30-24-2
Vacuum Lockoff
IMP-RK-VFF30
W/ Electric Primer
Repair Kit For
Impco VFF-30
Repair Kit:
Hydrin
IMP-RK-VFF30-2
(Not Shown)
IMP-RK-E-2
IMP-EB Repair Kit For
Impco EB Reg./Vap.
Impco Model E
Hydrin diaphragm
Regulator, Silicone
IMP-LB IMP-RK-L
Impco Repair Kit For
LB Regulator Impco Model LB
Hydrin

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
36
IMP-11A17
IMP-CT425M Vaporizer
Impco Air Cooled
CT425 Mixer (Old J & S Regulator)
IMP-AV1-16
For CA425 Mixer IMP-11A27
Hydrin Regulator
Non-Adjustable
Water Cooled
IMP-AV1-16-2
(Old J & S Regulator)
For CA425 Mixer
Silicone
IMP-AD1-28 IMP-CA300M-20-1
Idle Diaphragm CA300 Series
For CA425 Mixer Dual Fuel Mixer
IMP-RK300MA-50-70-1 IMP-RK300MA-1-20-2
Major Repair Kit Major Repair Kit
For 50/70 Series For 1/20 Series
(300 Mixer) (300 Mixer)
IMP-RK-CA55 IMP-RK-COBRA
Repair Kit For Repair Kit For
Impco CA55 Impco Cobra

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
37
AIR HORN ADAPTOR
IMP-A2-2 CA225M SERIES
5-1/8”
IMP-PEV-1
IMP-A2-3 Impco PEV-1
2-5/8” Natural Gas Regulator
IMP-A2-6
3-1/16”
IMP-AV1-30115 IMP-AV1-25590
FT60M-3-3 Feedback CT60M-3 Standard
Air Valve, Silicone Air Valve, Silicone

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
38
IMP-SPEC-CS4 IMP-CT60M-3
Spectrum Regulator Mixer Assy. CT60
W/ “O” Ring Kit 2-1/16” Air Horn
IMP-FT60M- IMP-FT60M-
30741-52-001 30741-52-002
Spectrum Mixer Spectrum Mixer
IMP-FT60M- IMP-FT60M-
30741-52-003 30741-52-004
Spectrum Mixer Spectrum Mixer
IMP-FT100M-
30828-52-001
Spectrum Mixer

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
39
*NOTE: KC = COMPLETE LPG KIT—LESS TANK
KP = UNDER HOOD KIT ONLY—LESS TANK*
ALLIS CHALMERS
KIT # MODEL # ENGINE
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL FT/FTB/20/25/30 WAUKESHA
KC-AC-3
KP-AC-3 F/FP/FT/30/40/50 ACG153
KC-AC-6
KP-AC-6 F/FP/60/70/80/100/200 ACG230
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL FC 60/70/100 ACG230
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL ACC 20/25/30 WAUKESHA FC133
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL ACC 20/25/30 CONTINENTAK F163
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL ACC 35/40/45/50/55 ACG153
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL ACC 35/40/45/50/55 CONTINENTAL F163
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL ACP 40/50 CONTINENTAL F163
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL ACC 60/70/80 ACG230
KC-AC-31
KP-AC-31 ACC 60/70/80 | ACP 60/70/80 CONTINENTAL F245
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL ACC 100/120 ACG230
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL AC 100 CONTINENTAL F245
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL WEIGHT MATE PT 2024 CONTINENTAL RENAULT
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL AC 35/40/45 ACG427
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL GP50XL MIT G420
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL F/FC/FP 60-200 ACG230

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
40
CATERPILLAR/TOWMOTOR
KC-UNIVERSAL CONTINENTAL F124/Y112/
KP-UNIVERSAL LT40/48/50/56/60/62/72 F163
KC-CAT-61
KP-CAT-61 402/422/462/502 CONTINENTAL F162/F163
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL 540/600/670/680 CONTINENTAL F209
KC-UNIVERSAL 540/600/670/680/760/T60C/
KP-UNIVERSAL T70C/T80C/T100C/T120C CONTINENTAL F226/F227
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL LT900 CONTINENTAL F226/F227
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL 392 CONTINENTAL Y112
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL V160/V200/V225 FORD 351
KC-UNIVERSAL V300/V35/V40/V45/V50/V55/
KP-UNIVERSAL V60B CONTINENTAL F163
KC-CAT-76 T30/35/40/45/50/60B/
KP-CAT-76 12N1229 CONTINENTAL F163
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL T165/180/200/225/250/300 IH UV-304
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL T25/TC30 CONTINENTAL F163
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL T25/TC30 CONTINENTAL F163
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL 390/400/420/460/480/500 CONTINENTAL F162/F163
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL B20 FORD 302
T30B/T30C/T35/T35B/T40B/
KC-UNIVERSAL T40C/T45/T50B/T50C/T55B/
KP-UNIVERSAL T55C/T350/T450 1404 CAT/HERC
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL B20 HERCULES 6 CYL.

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
41
CATERPILLAR/TOWMOTOR
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL T100/T120/T150D PERKINS 4-236
KC-CAT-402
KP-CAT-402 T30D/V50D/VC60D/T40-T50D PEUGEOT 2.0L
KC-CAT-403
KP-CAT-403 T30D/T40D/T50D PEUGEOT
KC-CAT-420 V41B/V51/V51B/
KP-CAT-420 V55B/V60B/V60C CONTINENTAL F227
KC-UNIVERSAL V60C/V60D/V80C/V80E/
KP-UNIVERSAL V80D/T80D/R80 PERKINS 4-236
KC-CAT-542 VC60DSA 30/40/50
KP-CAT-542 T/TC/V/VC 30-60DSA 1404 CAT/HERC
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL GP 40 MITSUBISHI 6G72 V6
KC-CAT-721
KP-CAT-721 GC 12/15/18/20/30 MITSUBISHI 4G63/4G64
CLARK
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL CLIPPER Y20/40/CE CONTINENTAL Y92
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL CAR LOADER CL CONTINENTAL 124
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL UTILITRUCK Y60/70/80/100 CONTINENTAL 226
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL CF 20/25 CONTINENTAL Y92/Y112
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL C20/25B/P20/25B CONTINENTAL Y92/Y112
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL C30/40/50B/IT-40 CONTINENTAL F162/F163
KC-CL-103
KP-CL-103 IT 40 CONTINENTAL F162/F163

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
42
CLARK
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL C500 20/25/30/S30 CONTINENTAL Y112
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL C500-Y30 CONTINENTAL Y112
KC-CL-107 C500-30/35/40/45/
KP-CL-107 50/55/Y355/560 WAUKESHA D155G/D176
KC-CL-108 C500-20/25/30/S30/
KP-CL-108 Y235/Y20-35 CONTINENTAL F162/F163
KC-UNIVERSAL C300-Y40/50
KP-UNIVERSAL YARD TRUCK CONTINENTAL 163
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL C500Y&H SERIES 60-150 CONTINENTAL F244/F245
KC-CL-113 C500-60/70-80/S80/80/
KP-CL-113 90/S100/CH80 CONTINENTAL F226/F227
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL C500-100/120/135 CONTINENTAL F245
KC-UNIVERSAL H225 CHRYSLER
KP-UNIVERSAL IT 60N SLANT 6
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL TOW TRUCK FORD 300 6 CYL.
KC-UNIVERSAL C300-30/40/50/60/Y466/
KP-UNIVERSAL Y356 SMALL TIRE, INDOOR CONTINENTAL F163
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL GPX40E/50E/60E/70E GM VORTEX 4.3L
KC-UNIVERSAL GCS17
KP-UNIVERSAL GPS 020/030 WAUKESHA D155/D176
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL GCS17 GPS 020/030QQ CONTINENTAL F227
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL GCS 30 GP1381 CONTINENTAL TM 27
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL C500-Y50/80-120 PERKINS 4-236

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
43
CLARK
KC-CL-545 GCS-17/30
KP-CL-545 GPS-20/25/30 GPX MITSUBISHI 4G54
KC-CL-545-1 GCS-17/30
KP-CL-545-1 GPS-20/25/30 GPX MITSUBISHI 4G54
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL CY100-120 CONTINENTAL F245
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL MEXICO CHEVY 292
KC-UNIVERSAL GCS/GPS-17-30
KP-UNIVERSAL DUEL FUEL MITSUBISHI 4G54
KC-UNIVERSAL GCS/GPS-17-30
KP-UNIVERSAL DUEL FUEL MITSUBISHI 4G54
DAEWOO
KC-CAT-542 G20-2/G20C-2 CAT 1404
KP-CAT-542 GC25S-2 G30-60 2.7L 163 CUI.
KC-UNIVERSAL G20-2/G20C-2 2.0L
KP-UNIVERSAL GC25S-2 PEUGEOT

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
44
DATSUN/NISSAN
KC-DAT/NIS-122 FOICO/FEC/C2000/
KP-DAT/NIS-122 C3000/C2700/3500 NISSAN J15
KC-DAT/NIS-124 FO2PO/FEP/P2000/
KC-DAT/NIS-124 3000/C2700/3500 NISSAN J15
KC-H20 C4B/C5B/C4/C5/P4B/
KP-H20 P4/P5B/P5/FG105 NISSAN H20
KC-UNIVERSAL C2B/C3B/C2/C3/P2B/
KP-UNIVERSAL P3B/P2/P3/CFG103 NISSAN D11
KC-H20 PO2C0/F02P0/C4000/C5000/
KP-H20 C6000/P4000/P5000/P6000 NISSAN H20
KC-H20 C7000/P7000/C8000/P8000/
KP-H20 C9000/P9000/FG107/FG007 NISSAN H20
KC-UNIVERSAL HF03CO/C6000/
KP-UNIVERSAL C7000/C8000 NISSAN H30
KC-UNIVERSAL F03P0/P7000/
KP-UNIVERSAL P8000/P9000 NISSAN P40
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL UF05 NISSAN P40
KC-H20 CPH01A10V/
KP-H20 COH01A13V NISSAN H20
KC-H20 CPH02A20V/
KP-H20 CPH02A25V NISSAN H20
KC-UNIVERSAL CRGH02F30V/CRGH02F33V/
KP-UNIVERSAL CRGH02F353V NISSAN Z24
PH01A14V/PH01A15V/
KC-H20 PH01A18V/PH02A20V/
KP-H20 PH02A23V/PH02A25V NISSAN H20
KC-UNIVERSAL RGH02A28V
KP-UNIVERSAL RGH2A30V NISSAN Z24
AH01A10/15/VCP30
KC-UNIVERSAL AH01M10/15/VCP30
KP-UNIVERSAL NASH01 NOMAD NISSAN A15

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
45
DATSUN/NISSAN
KC-H20 KPH02A25PV
KP-H20 P50KPH02A25V NISSAN H20
KC-H20 KH01/KH02/KCH01/
KP-H20 KCH02/KCPH01A15PV NISSAN H20II/H25
HELI
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL FG40/50/60 NISSAN H20-II
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL FCG20/30/40 NISSAN A-15
HYSTER
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL YE/UE.HE CONTINENTAL F163
KC-UNIVERSAL S20/25/30A/
KP-UNIVERSAL 20/25/30E CONTINENTAL Y112
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL S30/40/50 CONTINENTAL F163
KC-UNIVERSAL S60B/S70B/S80B/ CONTINENTAL
KP-UNIVERSAL S100B C OR H SERIES F227F245
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL H30/40/50/60F CONTINENTAL G193
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL H30/40/50/60H FORD 172/192
KC-HY-156 H150/180/ GMC V6
KP-HY-156 200/250 305-C

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
46
HYSTER
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL H20/25/30E CONTINENTAL Y112
KC-UNIVERSAL S30E/S40E/S50E/
KP-UNIVERSAL S60E/S100E/S50F GM 4-153
KC-UNIVERSAL RC 150/160 HERCULES JXE-3/
KP-UNIVERSAL SC180TC200 JXD-3/JXC
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL S125/150A CONTINENTAL F245
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL S20A/S25A/S30A CONTINENTAL Y112
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL H20/25/30E CONTINENTAL F135
KC-HY-171 CHEVY 4 CYL.
KP-HY-171 P40/50A 153/181
KC-UNIVERSAL S35XL/S40XL/
KP-UNIVERSAL S50XL/S60XL MAZDA VA 4-121
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL H&S 60E-120E H130F GMC 250 6 CYL.
KC-UNIVERSAL-AIRSTEAM
KP-UNIVERSAL-AIRSTEAM H/S70-150XL/XLS GMC V6 4.3L (CARB)
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL H35/60XL MAZDA VA 4-121
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL H&S60E-120E GMC 250 STRAIGHT 6 CYL.
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL S125-150A CONTINENTAL F245
KC-UNIVERSAL-AIRSTEAM
KP-UNIVERSAL-AIRSTEAM H70XL/H155XL 4.3L V6 VORTEC EFI
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL H40-65XM GM 2.2L
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL H40-65XM GM 2.2L

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
47
HYSTER
KC-HY-755
KP-HY-755 H40-60J GM 4-181 3.0L
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL H40XM/H50XM/H60XM MAZDA FE
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL S100A/S125A/S150A PERKINS 4.236
KALMAR AC
KC-H20
KP-H20 C-30 NISSAN H20
KC-H20
KP-H20 C&P 40/50/60 NISSAN H20
KC-H20 C30B/PS
KP-H20 C35B/PS NISSAN H20
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL P30B/C/SN TOYOTA 5K
KC-H20
KP-H20 P40B/PS/SN/P50B NISSAN H20
KC-UNIVERSAL C60B/PSP60B/
KP-UNIVERSAL C/SN/P60B/PS/SN HERCULES G1600
KC-UNIVERSAL C80H/PS
KP-UNIVERSAL C100H/PS NISSAN TB-42
KC-UNIVERSAL P80H/PS/P80YH/2/PS/SN
KP-UNIVERSAL P100H/PS/SN/P100H/2/PS/SN NISSAN TB-42
KC-H20 C40/PS/C50B/
KP-H20 PS, C50B/C NISSAN H20
KC-H20
KP-H20 P30/P35B/PS NISSAN H20

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
48
KALMAR AC
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL P150B NISSAN TB-42
BX SERIES,P40BX,P40BXH,
P50BX,P50BXH,P60BXH,
KC-H20 C40BX,C40BXH,C50BX,
KP-H20 C50BXH,C60BXH NISSAN H20-II/H25
KINGLIFT
KC-H20
KP-H20 05-KFG/CPQ25 NISSAN H20/53MM
KC-H20
KP-H20 FG40/50/60 NISSAN H20-II
KC-H20
KP-H20 FG18/25 NISSAN H20-II/H25
KOMATSU
KC-H20
KP-H20 FG10/15S NISSAN H20
KC-H20
KP-H20 FG20/25S-3 NISSAN H20
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL FG35/40-2 NISSAN PPU241
FG20/25/30S-4
KC-H20 FG20/25/30-8
KP-H20 FG15T-14 NISSAN H20
KC-H20
KP-H20 FG35/40/45-4 NISSAN 40

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
49
KOMATSU
KC-H20
KP-H20 FG33/3540/45/S4 NISSAN P40
KC-H20
KP-H20 FG14/15 FACTORY TOYOTA 4P STICK
KC-H20
KP-H20 FG10S ZA NISSAN H20 53MM
KC-H20 FG15S/FG18S-15/
KP-H20 FG15H/FG18H ZA NISSAN H20 53MM
KC-H20
KP-H20 FG15C-15 ZA TOYOTA 5K
KC-H20
KP-H20 FG20/25-11 NISSAN H20 53 MM
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL FG30SG/FG30G-11 HERCULES G1600
KC-KOM-677 FG35ST
KP-KOM-677 FG45ST-6 NISSAN TB-42
KC-KOM-677 FG40/FG45ST
KP-KOM-677 FG40C-6 NISSAN TB-42
KC-H20
KP-H20 FG20S/25ST-11 ZB NISSAN H20 53MM
KC-H20
KP-H20 GG20/25-11 NISSAN H20 53MM
KC-KOM-677
KP-KOM-677 FG30ST/G45ST-6 NISSAN TB-42
KC-KOM-677 FG40/45T-6
KP-KOM-677 F40OC-6 NISSAN TB-42
KC-H20
KP-H20 FG25S/FG25S-11 NISSAN H20 53MM
KC-H20
KP-H20 FG15H/18H NISSAN H20
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL FG30S/30G HERCULES G1600

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
50
KOMATSU
KC-H20
KP-H20 BX FG25/30ST-12 NISSAN H20-II
MISCELLANEOUS KITS
PETTIBONE/MERCURY
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL 30GA/40GA/50GA CONTINENTAL F163/F162
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL 950 FORD 6 CYL.
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL A30/TUG FORD 300 CID 6 CYL.

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
51
MITSUBISHI
FG14/15/18
KC-MIT-328 FG20/23/25 SATURN 4G33 4G38
KP-MIT-328 FG30/FG35A ASTRON 4G52 4G54
KC-MIT-721
KP-MIT-721 GC12-13 MITSUBISHI 4G63/64
Ask If 2 Bolt or 4 Bolt Intake & External Governor
TAILIFT
KC-H20
KP-H20 FG18/20/25 NISSAN H20 53 MM
KC-H20
KP-H20 FG18/20/25 NISSAN H20-II/H25
KC-H20
KP-H20 FG25/30 NISSAN H20-II/H25
TCM
FGC10C/FG100/
KC-UNIVERSAL FGC12C/FG14C/
KP-UNIVERSAL 1973-1982 NISSAN D11
FG14T/FGC15T/
KC-UNIVERSAL FG15C/FG15T/
KP-UNIVERSAL FG18T/FGC18T NISSAN J15
KC-UNIVERSAL FG14T/FGC15T/
KP-UNIVERSAL FG15C/FG15T/ NISSAN A15

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
52
TCM
KC-TCM-246
KP-TCM-246 FCG10/15/18/N6 NISSAN J15
KC-TCM-247
KP-TCM-247 FG10/14/15/18/N15 NISSAN J15
FG20/23/25/28
KC-H20 N6/N3/4/5/6/
KP-H20 FCG20T NISSAN H20
KC-H20
KP-H20 FG20/23/25/N1/N2 NISSAN H20
KC-H20
KP-H20 FG28/30/N7 NISSAN H20
KC-UINIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL FB30/35/N4 NISSAN H30
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL FHG30/35/36/N8 NISSAN H30
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL FG10/14/15/18/N16 NISSAN A15
KC-H20
KP-H20 FG20/23/25/N25 NISSAN H20
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL FG20/25/T-7 ALPHA SERIES MAZDA F2
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL F625/N5T/N6T NISSAN JH20-II
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL F9-700 SERIES TOYOTA 4Y
TOYOTA
KC-TOY-220 01-02-2FG/FGC/
KP-TOY-220 3FG/32/35/40/45 (1978) 2F/3F 6 CYL.

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
53
TOYOTA
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL FGA 7/9 1976-1981 TOYOTA 3P/4P
02FG/42-4/40-2/42-2/43-2/
FG/FGC-10/15/20/23/25/30/
KC-TOY-329 35/40, 01-02-2/32.35/40/
KP-TOY-329 4FGC20/23/25 TOYOTA 4P/5R
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL 2FG10-25 TOYOTA 3P/4P
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL FG 30 TOYOTA 5P
KC-TOY-4Y/5K 5FG10/14/15/18/
KP-TOY-4Y/5K 40-5FG25/42-5FG25 TOYOTA 4Y
KC-TOY-4Y/5K
KP-TOY-4Y/5K 42-6FGCU15-18 TOYOTA 4Y/5K
WHITE/MOBILIFT
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL WC/MA20/25/30 WAUKESHA FC135

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
54
WHITE/MOBILIFT
KC-UNIVERSAL LARGE INTAKE
KP-UNIVERSAL WC/MA30/40/50 CONTINENTAL F163
KC-UNIVERSAL SMALL INTAKE
KP-UNIVERSAL WC/MA30/40/50 CONTINENTAL F163
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL WC/MA60/70 CONTINENTAL F163
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL MY40/50/60/70/80 MOLINE 220
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL WC/MA80/90/100/120 CONTINENTAL F227
KC-UNIVERSAL MY40B/50B/60B/70B/ CHRYSLER
KP-UNIVERSAL 80B/MY100/120/140 SLANT 6
WORLDLIFT
KC-WL-391
KP-WL-391 WFG 18/20/25 NISSAN H20-II/H25
KC-H20
KP-H20 WFG/WFGC 40,50,60 NISSAN H20-II
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL WFG,WFGC 25,30,35 NISSAN A-15
YALE
KC-UNIVERSAL CHRYSLER 230 6 CYL.
KP-UNIVERSAL KG51 FLAT HEAD INC. 30
KC-YA-280 G51C 030/040/
KP-YA-280 045/050/060 CONTINENTAL F163

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
55
YALE
KP-UNIVERSAL C51P,G51P,L51C 6 CYL. IND. 30
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL G82C 1H135
KC-YA-286 G83C/L/P/S/ H225 CHRYSLER
KP-YA-286 L83C/L/P/S SLANT 6
KC-UNIVERSAL GLC/CLP/020/030/
KP-UNIVERSAL 040/050 SIDE DRAFT MAZDA UA
GLC/CLP/020/030/
KC-UNIVERSAL 040/050/060 DOWN DRAFT
KP-UNIVERSAL GP-040-RAJ P SERIES MAZDA VA
KP-UNIVERSAL GP/GC 060-120 SLANT 6
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL GTC 060 FORD G192
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL GC 040/060RD/RE MAZDA FE
KC-UNIVERSAL GC 050 RCJAE083 MAZDA VA
KP-UNIVERSAL GC 040-060 RCJ DOWNDRAFT
KC-UNIVERSAL MAZDA VA
KP-UNIVERSAL GP 040/060 RBJ DOWNDRAFT
KC-UNIVERSAL GP-050TFN UAE086 MAZDA FE/
KP-UNIVERSAL GP-040/050/060 F2 ENINGES
KC-UNIVERSAL
KP-UNIVERSAL GLC30CD ORED MAZDA D5/ FE
KC-UNIVERSAL GLP70-80LF/ CHRYSLER V6 3.9L
KP-UNIVERSAL 100-110MF 239 CID

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
56
PLEASE BE VERY ACCURATE TO INSURE A CORRECT FIT.
1. Make , Model , Engine
2. Is the manifold a two or four bolt pattern?
3. Center-to-Center on manifold studs . Be very specific and accurate.

This is a crucial measurement. If wrong, carburetor will not fit manifold.
4. Do you need vacuum advance on throttle body?
5. What is the out-side diameter of the air horn on the carburetor?
6. Does the carburetor have single or double linkage?
7. Do you need a ball stud on the carb lever?
8. Does the engine have a governor?
If so, is it a velocity or mechanical governor?
9. Is the existing carburetor straight or 90 degree elbow?
10. Is this carbureted or E.F.I. engine?
11. Is the engine water cooled or air cooled?
12. How many cylinders?
PLEASE INCLUDE THE FOLLOWING SO WE MAY CONTACT YOU:
COMPANY NAME:
CONTACT PERSON:
TELEPHONE:
ANY ADDITIONAL INFORMATION YOU FEEL WOULD BE HELPFUL:

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
57
Top View
STEEL LPG TANKS
LIQUID VAPOR
(Complete) (Complete)
TANK-20-S-L TANK-20-S-V
20 LB. 20 LB.
Liquid Withdrawal Vapor Withdrawal
33 LB. 33 LB.
43 LB. 43 LB.
20 LB. 33 LB. 43 LB.
Top View
ALUMINUM LPG TANKS
LIQUID VAPOR
(Complete) (Complete)
TANK-20-A-L TANK-20-A-V
20 LB. 20 LB.
33 LB. 33 LB.
43 LB. 43 LB.
20 LB. 33 LB. 43 LB.

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
58
Top View
MANCHESTER TANKS
*VAPOR WITHDRAWL ONLY*
TANK-B-20V
20 LB.
Pol Valve
TANK-B-30V
30 LB.
Pol Valve
TANK-B-40V
40 LB.
Pol Valve
20 LB. 30 LB. 40 LB.

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
59
OEM PART #’S
REGO-7141F
Female Coupling AC4738548 CL866176 CT9316503800 MB1015874 NI78001-7141F
MB93165-
BK101411 CT045019 DW045019 03600 WM35A9482
MB93165-
BK9Y11863 CT1015874 DW45019 03800 YT054966300
CL655335 CT45019 GA557-04 MBMDI-700050

MBMIC-
CL715976 CT9316503600 HY97999 0053011
REGO-7141M
OEM PART #’S
Male Connector
MBMIC-
AC4737405 CT49099 0053089 WM35A9481
MB93165-
BK9Y11864 GA557-03 03500 YT05496640
NI78001-
CL715977 HY124010 7141M
REGO-3125L OEM PART #’S

Hydrostatic Relief
AC4721342 BK43W10594X CL866277 DW034609 HY101809
MB93165-
AC4855696 CL655336 CT034609 DW34609 03900
NI17908-
BK101410 CL866181 CT34609 GA556-01 90H70
BK43W1059X YT019299600
REGO-7513-25
Inner ‘O’ Ring
REGO-0208 For 7141M
Yellow Replacement (25 per package)
Fill Valve Cap
For REGO-7647SC
REGO-7141M-3R
Outer Gasket
For 7141M
(25 per package)
REGO-8545AK
Pressure REGO-2697-20R
Relief Valve Outer Gasket
For 7647SC
(20 per package)

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
60
REGO-7647SC
Quick Fill Valve
OEM PART #’S

CT973950 CL923876 HY200807 RE7647SC
REGO-0206 REGO-3165CP
80% Stop Bleeder 80% Stop Bleeder
Valve W/ Stem Valve—No Stem
REGO-9101P5H
Service Valve
3/8” NPT

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
61
SAFETY-14
Amber Strobe 12-80V
SAFETY-16
Replacement Bulb
Diameter 3-7/8”
For SAFETY-14
Height 5”
SAFETY-20 SAFETY-19
Red Strobe Lens Amber Strobe Light
For SAFETY-14 For SAFETY-14
SAFETY-1
Amber Strobe SAFETY-8
12-80V Red Strobe Lens
Diameter of 5” For SAFETY-1
Determine Centered/Offset Prong BEFORE Ordering.

SAFETY-6
Replacement Bulb
SAFETY-9 For SAFETY-1
(Centered Prong)
Amber Strobe Lens
For SAFETY-1
SAFETY-6-1
Replacement Bulb
For SAFETY-1
(Offset Prong)
SAFETY-0 SAFETY-3
12V Tractor Light 12V Tractor Light Bulb
Heavy Duty Replacement bulb
Shock Resistant For SAFETY-0

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
62
SAFETY-5 SAFETY-15
Strobe Mounting Strobe Cage
Bracket for SAFETY-1 For SAFETY-14
SAFETY-4
12V Tractor Light
SAFETY-7
Strobe Cage—Short
Bracket—Heavy Duty
SAFETY-PL-20RC SAFETY-10026
Pilot Light 12V Amp Meter
For Low Gauge
Fuel Light Kit Complete W/ All
*See Page 64* Hardware Needed
SAFETY-10024 SAFETY-10025
12V Water 12V Oil
Temperature Gauge Pressure Gauge
Complete W/ All Complete W/ All
Hardware Needed Hardware Needed
HOBB HOBB
2 Screw Black 3 Screw Black
Hour Meter Hour Meter

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
63
HOBB
HOBB
40lb. Pressure
Chrome
Two Prong
Hour Meter For Low Fuel Light Kit
SAFETY-22 SAFETY-80
Back-Up Alarm HOBB
12-48 Volts 3-4lb. Oil
97 Decibels Pressure Switch
SAFETY-VAC-SW SAFETY-81
12V Vacuum Safety HOBB
Switch Used When 10lb.
Electric Solenoid Is Used Pressure Switch
SAFETY-LFK
Low Fuel Light Kit
This gives the driver time SAFETY-110
to switch tanks before HOBB
running out of fuel. Can Switch Boot 5000
also purchase SAFETY- Ser Neoprene Boot
BUZZ-12V for both dash For Pressure Switches
light & buzzer
SAFETY-BUZZ-12V
12V Light/Buzzer
(Optional)
Used With
SAFETY-LFK

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
64
LPG Fuel Cylinder Safety Maintenance
Label Label
SAFETY-74
Refuel When Lit
Label For Low Fuel
Light Kit
*See Page 64*

SAFETY-GLD-4
Leak Detector
4 oz. Bottle
(Checks For LP Leaks)
SAFETY-60
Starting Procedure SAFETY-GLD-8
Label—Straight Fuel Leak Detector
8 oz. Bottle
(Checks For LP Leaks)
SAFETY-59
“This IS Not A Fuel
Gauge” Label

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
65
ZENITH-A962B-1B ZENITH-C8-32
Zenith A962B-1B Zenith C8-32
Vaporizer - 2” Rubber
Adjustable Air Horn Spacer
ZENITH-C994-6 ZENITH-C8-33
Zenith C994-6 Zenith C8-33
Repair Kit for 1-3/4” Rubber
A962A-1A Vaporizer Air Horn Spacer
ZENITH-K2948
Zenith K2948
ZEN-K2127
Zenith
Repair Kit For
K2127
PC2 Series Carburetor
ZEN-2994
Zenith K2944
Repair Kit For
OCI Series Carburetor

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
66
GENERAL INFORMATION
COVERING ALL MAKES OF
LP-GAS CARBURETION EQUIPMENT
EXCEPT CERTIFIED FUEL SYSTEMS
LP-GAS
CARBURETION
SERVICE MANUAL
IF YOU REQUIRE MORE TECHNICAL HELP

PLEASE CALL:
PNG Technologies
TOLL FREE:
1-866-764-7278
67
TABLE OF CONTENTS
PAGE SECTION
69 TEST KIT USE
70-72 SPECIFICATIONS
73 INTRODUCTION
75 TERMINOLOGY
77 ENGINE FAILS TO START
81 HARD STARTING
85 POOR IDLING
89 FUEL SYSTEM LEAKS WHEN ENGINE STOPPED
90 FREEZE-UPS AND FROST
94 RICH AND LEAN FUEL MIXTURES
98 POWER LOSS
102 POOR ECONOMY
103 ENGINE OVERHEATS
105 ENGINE DIES
107 ENGINE MISSES
111 BACKFIRE, MUFFLER EXPLOSION
112 ENGINE KICKBACK, AFTER-BURNING, PRE-IGNITION, DETONATION
113 REFERS TO VAPOR SYSTEM ONLY
68
KNOW WHAT YOUR PRIMARY REGULATOR PRESSURE SHOULD READ AND HOW TO CHECK IT.
WE DO NOT RECOMMEND USING FUEL AS A MEANS OF CHECKING THE VAPORIZER PRESSURE.
USING FUEL CAN BE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS.
AIR PRESSURE SHOULD BE USED FOR CHECKING THE PRIMARY PRESSURE. THE PRESSURE RE-
QUIRED IS 75 TO 125 POUNDS. INSTALL THE PRESSURE GAUGE INTO THE PRIMARY TEST PORT OF
THE REGULATOR TO BE CHECKED. TO PREVENT DAMAGING THE GAUGE, START WITH THE AIR
PRESSURE OFF AND THE BLEEDER VALVE SLIGHTLY OPEN. TURN THE AIR PRESSURE ON. CLOSE
THE BLEEDER VALVE SLOWLY, ALLOWING THE PRESSURE TO DROP TO ITS LOWEST POINT. RE-
OPEN AND CLOSE THE VALVE TO BE SURE THE GAUGE READS THE SAME EACH TIME. REFER TO
THE CHART ON THE NEXT PAGE FOR THE PROPER READING REQUIRED.
69
ACCEPTABLE PRIMARY PRESSURES IN P.S.I.
ALGAS J&S
C250 SERIES 1-1/2 B-1, B-2 10-12
AB 10 10-12
11A01 7-12
11A02 7-12
BEAM
11A17 7-12
50-60 5
11A18 7-12
100-120 5
11A27 7-12
400A 5-6
11A28 7-12
CENTURY
MC CLAIN
G-85 5-7
M ½-M-FULL 2
H-HV 4-6
ZENITH
M-4 5-8
A962A 10-12
M-5 6-8
A965A 10-12
M-6 4-7
A806-43 2
IMPCO
E-EV-J 1-1/2
70
IGNITION ON LP-GAS ENGINES
IGNITION TEMPERATURE GASOLINE VS PROPANE
GASOLINE 560 DEGREES

PROPANE 670 DEGREES
HOTTER SPARK REQUIRED TO IGNITE PROPANE
SPARK PLUG SETTING .005 CLOSER

POINT SETTING SAME AS GASOLINE
IGNITION TIMING ADVANCE A FEW DEGREES
COLDER SPARK PLUGS NOT RECOMMENDED-REQUIRE MORE VOLTAGE.
REVERSED COIL POLARITY WILL REQUIRE 30% TO 40% MORE VOLTAGE TO FIRE SPARK PLUGS
PROPERLY.
REVERSED COIL POLARITY A COMMON CAUSE FOR HARD-STARTING ON PROPANE.
71
USEFUL INFORMATION ABOUT LP-GAS (PROPANE)
PRESSURES AT VARIOUS TEMPERATURES
TEMP. F PSI
-44 BOILING POINT
-30 13 LBS.
0 20 LBS.
20 47 LBS.
60 102 LBS.
80 140 LBS.
100 190 LBS.
PROPANE WEIGHS 4.24 LBS. PER GALLON
DOT CYLINDER CAPACITIES IN GALLONS:
43 ½ LB. 10.4 GALLONS
33 ½ LB. 8 GALLONS
20 LB. 4.8 GALLONS
250 GALLONS OF VAPOR

IN ONE GALLON OF LIQUID
72
INTRODUCTION
LP-Gas carburetion will continue to increase in popularity as long as sales, installation, and
service men have a good working knowledge of its functions and can satisfactorily furnish on-the-
spot service.
One of the greatest problems in the field today is lack of complete knowledge to trouble shoot
and properly service an LP-operated engine.
This guide has been developed over a period of years with the intention of covering every
possible cause of erratic or poor operation. Some conditions are remote but often these are the cost-
liest to find.
Material has been developed from our own servicing experience, from information and ques-
tions asked in thousands of letters, from material available from all carburetion manufacturers, from
trade paper articles, and from “trouble-shooting” sections of Motor’s Repair Manuals and the Butane-
Propane Power Manual.
What follows here is not limited to any one brand of carburetion. We urge that you carry this
valuable tool with you and refer to it often.
1. Tools needed for LP-Gas Carburetion Service work:
A. Open end wrenches
B. Socket Wrenches
C. Screwdrivers in 3 or 4 sizes
D. A soft hammer
E. Pliers in several types
F. Flare tools
G. Feeler or thickness gauges
73
2. Gauges and other handy equipment:
A. 0-15 pound pressure gauge
B. Vacuum gauge
C. 12” Water manometer or equivalent gauge
D. Compression gauge
E. Exhaust analyzer
F. Timing light
G. Ignition tester
H. Electric tachometer
3. A well-done installation will give many hours of good performance and trouble-free opera-
tion when the following points are observed:
A. Engine is in good condition when converted.
B. Suitable equipment is used for engine conversion.
C. Work is done correctly and adjusted properly.
D. Proper care of equipment is taken after conversion.
4. Save time in handling complaints by having customer describe fully any malfunction of the
engine. Narrow it down to basic causes.
5. Make sure trouble is elsewhere before making miss-adjustment to the carburetion which
will have to be corrected again. Without instruments, serious errors in diagnosis may be made.
6. Before tearing into LP carburetion equipment, imagine operation is on gasoline. Would you
first suspect the fuel pump and carburetor, or that valves, plugs, coil, or wiring need attention?
Carburetor complaints may turn out to be corroded battery cable terminals, poor ground,
dragging brakes, starting circuit troubles, bad valves, leaking intake manifold, plugged air filter or
muffler, improper lubrication, or other items even more remote. Much time can be saved checking
and correcting operation of these systems before starting on LP-Gas equipment.
74
7. Proper air-fuel ratio settings for LP Carburetors are shown in the chart below. Power mixture is
most important. Don’t allow lean mixture at any time. Idle is best set to highest r.p.m. or highest
manifold vacuum, rather than analyzer readings.
Readings on: Full Power Part Throttle Idling

Gasoline Scale 13.0 14.0 to 14.5 13.2
LP-Gas Scale 11.1 15.1 to 15.6 14.4
Efficiency Scale 84.0 90.0 to 94.0 85.0
TERMINOLOGY
Absorption Oil: Used in absorption plant to recover LP Gases. Drops out in vaporizer-regulator
when liquid is changed to vapor.
Air Filter, Air Cleaner: (oil bath or dry-type); Unit used to remove impurities from air intake sys-
tem.
Analyzer: See exhaust analyzer.
Balance Tube: A connection between atmospheric side of secondary regulator and carburetor air
inlet ahead of venture to compensate for air filter restriction.
Breather: Air vent to atmosphere on one side of regulator diaphragm.
Carburetor Adaptor: A sandwich type adaptor generally placed between gasoline carburetor air
horn and air filter permits combination fuel conversion without disturbing throttle and governor,
gasoline system remaining intact.
Carburetor as use herein, also: Mixer, Adaptor, Straight Carburetor, or Spud-in: The unit in sys-
tem where fuel and air are mixed in proper proportion.
Choke: A method of restricting air intake of engine.
Combination Carburetor: A carburetor for optional use of two or more fuels.
Converter: See regulator.
Compressor Oil: An oil deposit in the vaporizer regulator may be compressed oil deposited in fuel
from leakage in vapor pump compressor during fuel transfer.
Dry-Gas: Expanded fuel at approximately atmospheric pressure between final regulator and carbu-
retor.
75
Economizer: A method to insure richer analyzer reading on low vacuum, open throttle. Or a leaner
mixture on high vacuum, open throttle.
Excess Flow Valve: A check valve which closes when fuel flow exceeds a predetermined rate.
Exhaust Analyzer: An instrument which indicates the air-fuel ratio (by weight) through testing
samples of the exhaust gases.
Fuel Filter Strainer: Unit used to remove impurities from fuel system.
Idle Plate: Required in below-the-fly idle systems, when gasoline system is left intact. Install be-
tween gasoline carburetor and intake manifold.
Liquid Withdrawal: Fuel drawn from liquid space of LP-Gas tank.
Lockoff, Shut-off: Solenoid or vacuum operated valve in fuel line.
LP-Gas (Liquefied Petroleum Gas): Butane, Propane, or any mixture of the two.
Port: An orifice or opening with generally some method of closing.
Primary, High Pressure: The first pressure reduction between tank and carburetor.
Primer: A method of introducing some starting fuel to the engine.
Regulator, Converter, Vaporizer-Regulator: A pressure reducing unit, with one or more stages
of reduction (Latter two include heat exchangers).
Seat: Part which contacts port to insure closure. Neoprene, nylon, hycar, etc.
Secondary, Low Pressure: The second or final pressure reduction. Atmospheric section.
Solenoid Valve, Lockoff, Fuelock: Electrically operated, normally closed valve, used to close off
fuel supply when ignition is off.
Spray Bar: A method of introducing fuel at the venture through holes along the length of a tube.
Spud-in: A method of introducing fuel at the venture through the end of a tube.
Straight Carburetor: A complete carburetor.
Valve: A mechanical closure to regulate flow through a port.
76
Vapor: Vaporized fuel in space above liquid in tank or in line to regulator (at tank pressure).
Vapor Withdrawal: Fuel drawn from vapor space of LP-Gas tank.
Vaporizer-Regulator: Also called converter or regulator. Includes heat exchanger with at least one
pressure reduction.
Venturi: The small diameter restriction (usually air foil section) of the carburetor which produces a
drop in pressure and suction required to draw in fuel in proportion to volume and velocity of air.
ENGINE FAILS TO START
A. DUE TO BATTERY
1. Battery cables badly corroded.
2. Improper ground.
3. Battery cables frayed or undersize.
B. DUE TO STARTER MOTOR
1. Starter gear binding in flywheel gear.
2. Starter switch defective.
3. Faulty neutral safety switch on cars with automatic transmission.
4. Starter motor defective. Check voltage drop.
IGNITION: A hot (blue) spark should jump about ¼” air gap when terminal is
held away from spark plug and engine is turned over by starter. If not, check 3
and 4 below.
C. DUE TO OPEN PRIMARY IGNITION CIRCUIT
1. Ignition switch circuit open.
2. Distributor points burned or oxidized.
3. Breaker points dirty.
4. Breaker points not closing. Re-gap to specifications.
77
5. Breaker arm binding on pivot post, preventing closing of points.
6. Breaker arm spring weak or broken.
7. Breaker arm distorted or bent.
8. Primary circuit resistance unit burnt or open. (12 volt systems)
9. Primary lead connection loose at distributor or coil.
10. Primary windings in coil broken.
11. Magneto defective.
D. DUE TO GROUNDED PRIMARY IGNITION CIRCUIT
A grounded coil primary winding, a grounded ignition switch terminal, or a grounded switch-to-coil
primary lead will cause excessive current flow and will usually cause wires to burn. Check resistor
(12 volt system).
1. Breaker points not opening due to improper adjustment.
2. Breaker points not opening due to worn rubbing block on breaker arm.
3. Insulating busing in breaker arm faulty.
4. Insulator at distributor primary terminal cracked or faulty.
5. Condenser grounded, internal windings to case.
6. Distributor-to-coil lead grounded.
7. Primary coil winding grounded.
E. DUE TO FAULTY SECONDARY IGNITION CIRCUIT
1. Spark plugs of improper type.
2. Spark plugs damaged, dirty or wet or porcelains cracked.
3. Spark plug gaps improperly spaced. (Most likely to be too wide)
4. Poor ignition wiring. (Some late model cars have a poor grade of wire which should be
replaced)
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5. Moisture on ignition coil, terminals, distributor cover, spark plug porcelains, or in dis-
tributor. Thoroughly dry out exposed ignition wires and coat with waterproof sub-
stance.
6. Spark plug cables not installed correctly for engine firing order.
7. Spark plug cable terminals corroded.
8. Insulation on cable chafed or cracked.
9. High resistance build-up in spark plugs. Clean or replace.
10. Check timing. If engine kicks back, timing is advanced too far.
11. Distributor cap center terminal (inner) broken or missing.
12. Radio suppressor in distributor cap broken or burned out.
13. Secondary wire loose or internally broken.
A. Coil to distributor cap.
B. Distributor to plugs.
14. Distributor rotor grounded.
15. Rotor contact spring bent or broken.
16. Cracked distributor cap or a burned carbon track from distributor cap center terminal
to distributor housing.
17. Ignition coil weak or inoperative. Also check condenser.
NOTE: In rare cases, a hot engine will not start due to a coil which
loses its efficiency when hot, causing ignition failure. After
coil cools, engine will start.
F. DUE TO CONGEALED ENGINE OIL
Use of too heavy a grade of oil or to the formation of sludge.
G. DUE TO INTAKE SYSTEM OR VALVES
1. Intake valve sticking open.
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2. Valve springs broken or improper tappet clearances.
3. Vacuum leak at hoses, manifold or carburetor.
H. DUE TO EXCESSIVE FUEL SUPPLY (FLOODING)
1. If carburetor, dry-gas line, and regulator are frosted over, close tank valve and allow
excess fuel to dissipate. Start on vapor then switch to liquid withdrawal after vaporizer
is warm.
2. If system is not frosted, but merely flooded, crank engine with throttle wide open. En-
gine will not start until rich mixture is thinned out. If flooded excessively, it may be
necessary to shut off fuel supply at solenoid or fuel tank.
NOTE: To prevent repetition, check items under “Fuel System Leaks

With Engine Stopped”.
I. DUE TO LACK OF FUEL AT CARBURETOR
Place temporary jumper across vacuum or pressure switch in series with electric solenoid valve. With
ignition on, prime regulator. (If necessary, depress secondary diaphragm or blow into secondary
breather). Audible hiss will prove fuel is flowing. If not, check fuel system as outlined below:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. Tank outlet valve closed.
3. Excess flow valve closed. (May occur soon after filling a fuel tank which was low in
fuel). Close tank valve and reopen slowly.
4. Check hot wire to solenoid valve. On late model autos the accessory side of ignition
switch is automatically cut off when starter is engaged.
5. Loosen line at solenoid valve to see if fuel is reaching that point. If not, check for
damaged fuel line or stopped up fuel filter. (Water in fuel could freeze and restrict high
pressure line).
6. Look for defective wiring or poor connections to solenoid valve. Turn on ignition and
check for fuel at outlet of solenoid valve or at inlet of regulator. (Place temporary
jumper across vacuum or pressure switch). If liquid does not flow, check wiring for
broken circuit. Compare valve voltage with system. Repair solenoid if necessary. Re-
move jumper wires.
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7. Solenoid may not open due to excessive fuel pressure caused by unusually warm
weather. Valve plunger travel is critical. A worn or depressed soft valve seat may be
an immediate solution, but plunger should be replaced.
8. Check special switch (wired in series with solenoid) with vacuum if that type (suck on
line) or with low pressure, when pressure switch is used.
9. If fuel reaches regulator, check primary pressure. If zero, or too low, look for primary
spring omitted or wrong spring installed. Primary port may not open and regulator
needs servicing.
10. Disconnect dry-gas line and depress secondary diaphragm. Audible hiss should be
heard. If necessary, remove secondary cover and depress arm until fuel appears. Re-
pair regulator if required.
11. A defective dry-gas hose could have loose flaps on inside walls which shut off fuel with
venture suction. “Sighting” or blowing through hose would not locate this trouble.
12. In rare cases fuel might reach carburetor, yet not get into engine.
A. Check power screw setting.
B. Look for foreign matter causing restrictions at power

adjustment.
C. Examine venturi (or spray-bar or spud-in) for restriction..

Venturi may be installed improperly, restricting fuel. Blow
into carburetor fuel inlet if in doubt.
HARD STARTING
A. DUE TO BATTERY
1. Cranking speed too slow in exceptionally cold weather. Use of auxiliary battery for ig-
nition current. Install second battery parallel with original for starting.
2. Battery may be too weak or inadequate to supply energy for cranking the engine and
still have sufficient reserve to create a hot spark in the combustion chamber. Too high
a compression increase can lead to hard starting, especially on 6-volt systems.
3. Battery has less power when cold-only about half as much power at 0 degrees Fahren-
heit as at 70 degrees Fahrenheit . Also in winter, battery is under increased strain
when starting a cold engine, and added drain from accessories. Electrical equipment
(horn, windshield wiper, lights, heater and defroster) takes a heavier beating in winter
when an adequate battery is a must. Don’t turn on electrical equipment until after en-
gine starts.
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4. The need of an adequate battery is proved when a vehicle or tractor engine, otherwise
impossible to start, will do so readily and operate satisfactorily when pushed only a
few feet.
5. LP-Gas requires a hotter spark than gasoline. When converting a gasoline engine, this
must be taken into consideration.
B. DUE TO IGNITION
No engine will start unless ignition system receives sufficient electrical energy during cranking to
provide hot enough spark to ignite fuel. Factors having the greatest bearing on intensity of ignition
spark are listed below. Check ignition thoroughly, the same as a gasoline engine.
1. Test battery condition and capacity. Check size of battery cable and group strap. Look
for loose or badly corroded terminals.
2. Moisture on ignition coil, terminals, distributor cover, spark plug porcelains or in dis-
tributor. Coat exposed ignition wires with a water proof substance to prevent wetting
and freezing.
3. Spark plugs damaged, dirty or loose. Porcelains cracked, or gaps improperly spaced.
4. Engine out of time. Too far advanced would cause “kickback”. Too far retarded will
lose power. Either may cause overheating.
5. Cap and rotor should be in good condition. Clean or replace if not up to specifications.
6. Breaker points burned or oxidized. When badly pitted, check condenser for proper
capacity.
7. Breaker points too far open.
8. With starter cranking engine, spark should jump a gap of at least 1/4” with impulse
driven magneto, or 1/8” with battery ignition. LP fuel requires a hotter spark than
gasoline.
9. Check all wires for adequate size and inspect soldered connections.
10. Ignition coil polarity reversed. Coil can be improperly connected and if such is the
case, secondary voltage will be reduced considerably. To determine proper connection,
use a reliable ignition tester or High Voltage D.C. meter. Always connect positive
(red) test lead to ground. With engine operating at fast idle, touch other test lead
(black) to spark plug terminal. If meter shows reading, coil is properly connected. If
no reading or meter needle tends to reverse travel (heads backwards from normal po-
sition), then coil polarity is reversed and primary leads to coil must be switched. After
reversing them, retest, keeping positive test lead to ground.
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If a meter is not available, operate engine with primary connected one way, then re-
verse leads and determine which way gives strongest spark. Although having no rela-
tion to battery grounding, it is helpful to note that on coils marked positive and nega-
tive, connection can be made in same sequence as battery. Example: if battery
ground is negative, then coil lead to distributor should be negative side.
11. Test original equipment ignition coil for efficiency. If coil replacement is indicated, it is
best to replace with a high duty type. Be sure to install condenser designed to work
with new coil. Although not essential, heavy duty breaker points are recommended.
12. Check starter current draw, too much drop will rob ignition.
13. Check starter for worn out brushes and armature.
14. When wiring solenoid valves on late model autos, do not make connection to acces-
sory side of ignition switch. This circuit is automatically cut off when starter is en-
gaged.
Most 12 volt systems have a small resistor between ignition and coil. Connect center
terminal of 3 way transfer switch to line between resistor and ignition switch. (Never
connect lockoff or any accessory between coil and resistor).
15. Magneto weak.
C. DUE TO LUBRICATION OIL
1. Oil level too high.
2. Low temperatures cause engine oil to become too thick, requiring more power from
battery. Also, with LP-Gas as a motor fuel, lubricating oil has a tendency to become
heavier since there are no heavy ends present (as in gasoline) to offset the thickening
which takes place due to oxidation and impurities.
A grade of oil should be used that will not cause excessive drag when cold. Generally,
use a lighter grade of oil with LP-Gas than recommended for gasoline. Use good grade
oils from reliable firms. Consult their servicemen; they are for that purpose.
3. Run engine a few minutes before operating under load to insure warm up and proper
lubrication.
D. DUE TO AIR FILTER
Some hard starting is caused by a restricted air filter.
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E. DUE TO VALVES AND RINGS
1. Check compression to detect worn, sticking or broken piston rings; leaking or sticking
valves. Compression test might also indicate: defective head gasket or broken piston;
scored piston or scored cylinder.
2. Valve spring broken.
3. Valve tappet clearances may be too close. On some engines valves may tighten up
with LP-Gas operation.
F. DUE TO CLUTCH
In autos or trucks with standard shift, keep clutch in when starting. If it drags, adjust with clutch
pedal down.
G. DUE TO LEAKAGE IN INTAKE SYSTEM
1. Intake manifold loose or warped.
2. Vacuum line or fitting loose.
3. Air leaks at carburetor.
H. DUE TO EXCESSIVE FUEL AT CARBURETOR
1. Regulator leaking prior to starting. Check all items under “Fuel System Leaks With En-
gine Stopped”.
2. Check operation of primer (if there is one).
3. Starting adjustment (if there is one) set too rich.
4. Choke operation at fault. Over-choking will flood engine (it may remain flooded sev-
eral hours). To un-flood, crank engine 5 to 7 seconds with throttle and choke open.
5. Hard starting when hot (although satisfactory when cold) can be caused by placement
of solenoid shutoff too far from regulator. This could allow fuel leakage into dry-gas
line during shutdown and cause too rich a starting mixture.
I. DUE TO INSUFFICIENT FUEL AT CARBURETOR
1. Tank valve almost closed.
2. Excess-flow check-valve closed. To open, close tank valve, then reopen slowly.
3. Fuel lines to regulator plugged. Fuel filter packed with dirt.
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4. Vapor pressure in tank depends upon fuel mix and fuel temperature. Use straight pro-
pane when excessively cold weather is anticipated.
5. Solenoid valve not opening properly. On late model automobiles, accessory side of
switch goes dead when starter is energized. This would close solenoid valve during
cranking. Rewire correctly.
6. Too large a venture or poor venture action (installed wrong, poor spud-in, etc.) can
cause hard starting. Make necessary corrections.
7. Starting adjustment (if there is one) set too lean. Check choke, if applicable.
8. Audible hiss should be heard when operating regulator primer. (If none, see 9) Re-
move dry-gas line and listen for escaping fuel.
9. If no primer, blow into secondary regulator breather vent. (Small diameter hole in
large cover). Sound of gas should be heard rushing into the engine.
10. Primary regulator pressure may be abnormally low or falls off when engine is cranked.
Check following:
A. Tank pressure can drop to 30 pounds or less with low temperatures. Use straight
propane in cold climates.
B. Primary pressure may be too low if incorrect primary spring is used. Check against
manufacturer’s designed spring.
C. Height and setting of tail end of primary lever arm can affect pressure. Check
against manufacturer’s recommendation.
11. Secondary regulator diaphragm ruptured or loose. Dry-gas line loose, porous rup-
tured, too long, too small or too many elbow’s.
12. Beam systems depend on venture action for idle. Proper relation between idle and
starting mixture is important. Try different idle mixture to permit better starting.
13. Check for malfunction of vacuum lockoff diaphragm in Beam regulators having this
feature (all except model 400). A poor vacuum connection, ruptured diaphragm or im-
proper replacement spring (too stiff) could cause lean starting mixtures.
14. A closed throttle for starting is recommended on Beam regulators with built-in-vacuum
diaphragm. On very small one or two cylinder engines it may be necessary to use fuel
test bar (on Beam regulator rear cover) when engine is cold.
POOR IDLING
A. ENGINE WILL NOT IDLE DOWN
1. Throttle setting too fast.
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2. Choke linkage not set correctly for idle.
3. Substantial air leaks into intake system through worn throttle shaft, damaged butter-
fly, leak at carburetor flange or some spot in the intake manifold system.
4. Idle mixture not set properly.
5. On combination fuel conversions, it may help to rotate adapter to another position to

get better fuel distribution.
6. On combination fuel conversions using an adapter with regulator of below-the-fly idle

design, the idle distribution may not be correct. Check idle plate or if idle connection
has been made to intake manifold, be sure it is central to manifold system.
7. Beam built-in vacuum diaphragm either ruptured or pulled down improperly allowing
leakage, would probably not show up in poor idle (due to restricted vacuum hole in
regulator) unless manifold connection were not central with intake system.
B. IDLE WILL NOT REMAIN CONSTANT, REQUIRES TOO FREQUENT ADJUSTMENT
1. Poor throttle stop allowing engine to idle at various speeds. Idle mixture adjustment
not held securely, allowed to vary.
2. Throttle shaft, throttle arm, or butterfly sticking or worn and does not return to same
position each time.
3. Vacuum leak interference from vacuum brake system.
4. Occasional gasoline leak such as solenoid valve opening on bumpy road.
5. Check for unusual variations in primary regulator pressure or in fuel supply. Check va-
porizer—too hot or too cold. Check engine cooling system under ”Engine Overheats”.
6. Secondary arm hinge pin, bracket or valve seat not held securely or binding. Parts do
not always return to same position. Economizer or primer sticking. Erratic air leak into
dry-gas hose due to loose connection.
7. Oil collected in dry-gas line could cause erratic idle. After engine operates for a period,
oil is spread thin through vapor line. (This occurs when dry-gas line runs up to carbu-
retor). After engine sets, excess oil runs back and plugs line. Inspect carefully.
C. TROUBLE OUTSIDE CARBURETION EQUIPMENT
There should be enough range in idle adjustment screw to make mixture too rich or too lean. If
proper mixture will not give a smooth idle, check the following:
1. Engine idling too slowly. Try higher idle speed.
2. Spark plug wire off, or one plug not firing properly.
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3. Set spark plug gaps as recommended. If idle is still not smooth, try .005 wider setting.
4. Loose electrical connections.
5. Secondary circuit connections dirty or corroded. Faulty ignition cables.
6. Cross firing between ignition cables. Separate the cables.
7. Loose distributor.
8. Engine timing possibly too fast, or greatly retarded.
9. Breaker point gap too narrow or much too wide. Breaker arm sticking.
10. Distributor cap cracked or faulty. Radial contacts in cap burned or worn.
11. When gasoline system is retained, make certain manual shutoff or electric solenoid
valve in gasoline line closes completely. Any leak of gasoline will cause erratic idling.
12. Oil bath air filter restricted or overfilled. Dry type filter dirty.
13. Engine valves sticking or leaking. Test for low or uneven compression, caused by
valves, rings, pistons, head gasket or loose sparkplug.
14. Valve clearances too close. Adjust to specifications.
15. Valves out of time (loose chain drive).
16. Rocker arm sticking. Valve spring broken.
17. Be sure vacuum advance does not cut in at idle speed.
18. Squirt heavy oil or kerosene on joints to locate leaks at intake manifold mounting
flanges, at throttle shaft, etc.
19. An air above throttle such as between gasoline carburetor air horn and LP carburetor
adapter. (If spud-in, check for loose fitting).
20. Air leak around intake valve stem due to excessive valve stem-to-guide clearance.
21. Vacuum brake system leaks.
22. Air leaks into dry-gas hose.
D. IMPOSSIBLE TO MAKE IDLE ADJUSTMENT LEAN ENOUGH
1. Engine idling too slowly. Speed up by adjusting idle stop screw. Reset idle mixture.
2. Choke blade not fully open.
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3. In combination fuel conversion, be sure gasoline supply line is closed.
4. Venturi considerably too small.
5. On below-the-fly idle systems, be sure idle passage and shutoff drilling are not defec-
tive. Idle screw might not restrict port sufficiently.
6. Economizer diaphragm, if present, may be broken.
7. Air filter restricted or too full of oil.
8. Regulator leaning over or lying down when it should be mounted vertically.
9. Regulator leaking more gas than is required to idle engine. Correct leaks.
10. Regulator primer holding secondary valve open. (Sticking or out of adjustment).
11. On some regulator designs, due to location of secondary breather vent, water could
enter and collect behind secondary diaphragm, holding valve open.
12. With Beam regulators, perhaps idle whisker wire is resting too strongly on idle screw.
Bend wire up as necessary to allow for proper adjustment.
13. If primary regulator pressure slowly climbs, primary inlet valve is leaking. Repair.
14. A ruptured (or improperly secured) primary diaphragm can cause rich idle mixture.
Many regulator designs are such that primary regulator breather vents into secondary
chamber. A leak through or around primary diaphragm would allow fuel to leak into
secondary regulator chamber, by-passing standard idle system. Check as follows:
A. Remove secondary diaphragm and insert pressure gauge in primary test hole.
B. Apply high pressure air to regulator inlet. Take pressure reading of primary
section.
C. Hold shut both the secondary valve and primary diaphragm vent hole. A continued
rise in primary pressure would indicate defective primary diaphragm.
15. Improper replacement spring used under secondary lever arm. Too weak a spring is
indicated.
E. IMPOSSIBLE TO MAKE IDLE ADJUSTMENT RICH ENOUGH
(Assuming that operation at other speeds is satisfactory, fuel tank not empty, etc.).
1. See that idle passages, tubes, or connections are unrestricted and not leaking air. Be-
low-the-fly idle systems must not be connected to port for vacuum distributor control.
Connection must be made central to intake manifold system.
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2. Venturi may be much too large.
3. Check dry-gas line and secondary regulator for excessive collection of oil. If present,
drain and install sediment trap on low side to catch excess oil.
4. Secondary diaphragm ruptured or too stiff. Replace if necessary.
5. Improper replacement spring used under secondary lever arm. Too stiff a spring is in-
dicated.
6. If regulator is a Beam model with vacuum diaphragm (all except model 400), proper
vacuum connection must be made. Be sure that hold in manifold is not plugged with
carbon. Check with vacuum gauge if in doubt.
7. With Beam regulators, perhaps idle whisker wire is not resting properly on idle screw.
Remove secondary cover and bend whisker wire down as necessary to allow proper
adjustment. (Idle screw actually lifts secondary arm off idle port).
FUEL SYSTEM LEAKS WITH ENGINE STOPPED
1. Check fuel system for minor leaks. Open fuel valve and apply soap suds with small
brush to all tank, fuel line, filter, solenoid valve and vaporizer fittings. This check is
required on all new installations and should be routine at inspection periods. Repair
any leaks.
2. If regulator depends upon a solenoid, be sure one is installed and wired correctly so
that current is off when ignition is off.
3. Solenoid valve not shutting off. Check plunger and valve port for damage. Inspect soft
seat. Foreign matter will not “blow off” and removing deposit seldom cures the leak.
Replace plunger or armature disc.
4. Secondary valve may be leaking. When an LP solenoid valve is not installed, and is not
specifically required with regulator being used, check dry-gas outlet with soap film.
5. Leaks may be caused by dirt or chips lodging on regulator valve seats. All liquid with-
drawal installations should have fuel filter, serviced occasionally to keep it clean.
6. If regulator is leaking and secondary valve is apparently closing properly, check for
interference with secondary diaphragm:
A. Secondary arm too high, (touching cover) holding port open.
B. Regulator primer pushing against secondary diaphragm, holding port open.
C. Secondary vent plugged, trapping air, holding diaphragm down.
D. Secondary diaphragm too stiff and no longer flexible.
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E. In Beam regulators, (all except Beam 400), the vacuum diaphragm bumper must
exert pressure on secondary arm to insure tight shutoff. Be certain diaphragm is
returning to extended position. Lever arm should be flush with top edge of casting
wall when closed position.
7. If regulator outlet is leaking excessively, see if primary section is closing properly. In-
stall pressure gauge at primary test position. Hold secondary valve shut and check for
build-up of primary pressure. One of the following should lead to trouble:
A. Primary valve leaking. Clean and install new primary valve seat and new valve port
if damaged. Check for leaks under valve fitting.
B. Primary diaphragm ruptured or loose.
C. Check setting of primary lever arm. Lever is generally hooked to primary dia-
phragm (unless controlled by a second spring).
D. Fuel leaking at some point in casting. Hold pencil eraser or other soft cover over
primary valve port. Allpy air pressure to inlet and hold casting under water. Ob-
serve for any possible leaks in casting between fuel inlet and port. Carefully pean
over if practical.
8. Fuel leaking into water system (or oil system if that is used). If leak is noted, regula-
tor repairs are necessary. Some converters have gaskets separating gas and water
chambers. Replace.
9. If regulator does not leak through and LP odor is noticed when engine has not been
run, look for frosted area on the fuel system fittings to detect a significant leak of liq-
uid fuel. Check all tank valves, all welded joints, and the drain plug (or plugs) on lower
portion of tank.
10. “Sweat” on fuel line may not be a leak but a restriction. (Formed when engine was
running).
11. Fuel tank overfilled. Insufficient vapor space will cause relief valve to pop off if tank
temperature is raised. Do not fill fuel tanks over 87% of capacity. Tanks should never
be “packed”.
12. Straight propane in extreme summer temperatures may create high vapor pressure in
tank and cause relief valve to pop off. A slight hissing noise or sizzle may be relief
valve only slightly off its seat.
13. Slight hissing noise might be caused by air brake system or vacuum storage system
leak.
FREEZE-UPS AND FROST
A. REGULATOR FREEZE-UPS DURING NORMAL OPERATIONS
Generally due to inadequate water circulation through vaporizer.
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1. Water level too low in radiator. Fill radiator. If leaking, repair.
2. Vaporizer mounted higher than upper radiator tank. Relocate.
3. In pressure cooling system, cap on radiator missing or loose.
4. Air lock in vaporizer water chamber. Disconnect water outlet hose at regulator. Keep
line open until water flows from both openings, then reconnect.
5. Swollen lining in water hoses to vaporizer; full flow not possible. Test above might in-
dicate this. Or cut one hose in half to determine if clogged. Replace or repair as neces-
sary.
6. Water hoses, lines or fittings too small for sufficient water flow.
7. Vaporizer water circulation should not be piped in series with cab heater. Run lines
independent of heater, or in parallel, using proper size hose or tubing.
8. Water circulation through regulator reversed. Generally, water should enter bottom of
unit and exit at top. See manufacturer’s recommendation.
9. Improper piping to vaporizer; both lines connected to pressure side of water system or
both to suction side of water pump.
10. Water pump defective, drive belt slipping. Check by running engine with water hose
held slightly away from regulator fitting. Water should jump an air gap and drink a full
flow without loss. On pressure system, radiator cap must be loose for this test.
11. In thermo-siphon cooling system, hot water must circulate through vaporizer opposite
to pump system. Circulating principle is same as in radiator. Hot water enters upper
vaporizer connection, exits at bottom. Water will not circulate until warm. Install sec-
ond hot water connection from top or vaporizer to top of engine block if necessary.
(On small engines, oil heating is preferred over thermo-siphon water system, but it
does have its limitations. See section “B” immediately following).
12. Lack of thermostat.
13. Thermostat defective or set too low.
14. A blown head gasket can force water out of vaporizer-regulator causing freeze-up.
Gasket rupture may be slight and not enough to show as bubbles in radiator. Check
carefully as follows: Disconnect water pump. Remove top radiator hose connection
and observe for bubbles with engine under medium load.
15. A loose cylinder head can blow water out of lines. Watch for air bubbles as in test 14
above.
16. Vaporizer too small for engine. Check against manufacturer’s recommendation for
maximum capacity.
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17. Water chamber in vaporizer-regulator clogged with deposits. Clean out system. Use
rust inhibitor in water if necessary.
18. Jelly like deposits in cooling system. Anti-freeze and inhibitor may be incompatible.
One should be changed.
19. Regulator defective. Internal leak in water jacket forcing water out of unit. Check for
bubbles of LP-Gas vapor in radiator top tank. Be sure solenoid valve is open for this
test.
20. Dirt under the secondary seat can cause refrigeration through rapid loss of gas, al-
though engine would probably not run.
21. Freeze-ups can be caused by a ruptured or loose secondary regulator diaphragm. Re-
move and inspect.
B. REGULATOR FREEZE-UPS DURING NORMAL OPERATIN WHEN USING OIL AS A

HEATING MEDIUM
1. Be sure oil pump supplies both needs of engine and oil flow through regulator.
2. Oil not circulating properly. If flexible lines are used, use a good grade of hose. Oil has
a tendency to swell plain rubber tubing.
3. Oil filter plugged.
4. Auxiliary electric fuel pumps have been used on large engines to pump oil directly
from sump of crankcase, through regulator and back to crankcase.
5. Oil heating has limitations on larger engine. Run lines of proper capacity and keep
short as possible. If necessary on such installations, mount vaporizer-regulator near
warm exhaust manifold heat to take advantage of under-the-hood temperatures. Place
so that engine fan blows warm air past and around regulator. Use deflector plates if
practical.
6. Exercise special care when starting a cold engine which is using oil for heating.
A. Oil requires considerably longer to “warm up” than water. Give engine an opportu-
nity to reach operating temperatures before putting it to work.
B. If regulator is allowed to frost over, it is difficult to thaw out since excessively cold
oil forms a film (like heavy grease) in vaporizing chamber and no heat-exchange
will be realized due to insulation effect.
C. If frost-over does occur, run engine on vapor withdrawal lone enough to allow en-
gine oil to warm the regulator.
C. REGULATOR FREEZE-UPS BEFORE THOROUGHLY WARM
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1. In any weather, caused by accelerating engine before regulator has had time to warm
up sufficiently.
2. In cold weather, cover radiator if necessary to speed warming.
3. In excessively cold weather, start and operate engine on vapor for warm up period,
then return to liquid withdrawal. (Assuming not caused by sub-zero temperatures,
when system should be, but does not use anti-freeze).
D. REGULATOR FREEZE-UPS WHEN ENGINE IS NOT OPERATING
Odor of escaping gas should be apparent. Beware of sparks or flame. Do not start engine until tank
valve is closed and escaping gas dissipated. Regulator, vapor hose, carburetor, even engine may be
full of liquid fuel.
1. Check to see if ignition was shut off and solenoid valve was de-energized, especially if
regulator is bleed-through idle type. Foreign matter may have kept solenoid outlet
port open. A sunken seat or damaged outlet port can cause leakage.
2. Secondary regulator leaking. Try to blow foreign matter off valve seat by depressing
secondary diaphragm. Lever mechanism may be sticking. If leak continues, overhaul
regulator.
3. Primary regulator leaking, or primary diaphragm ruptured. Check primary pressure

and compare to normal. Be sure secondary port is held tightly closed for this test.
4. Internal leak in vaporizer water jacket. Remove radiator cap and check for bubbles of
LP-Gas in radiator water. (Be certain solenoid valve, if present, is open for this test).
E. FROST ON LINE BETWEEN REGULATOR AND CARBURETOR
Liquid fuel in dry-gas line, caused by inadequate vaporizing.
F. FROST AT ANY OTHER POINT IN SYSTEM
Fuel leaking or restriction at that point. Dirty filter, kinked line, tank excess-flow valve closed, etc.
Remove restriction or correct link.
G. FROST ON TANK
1. In liquid withdrawal system, dip tube fractured.
2. In vapor system, too rapid fuel withdrawal for tank size. Use larger tank.
H. WATER IN TANK
Water in the fuel may cause ice to form on liquid outlet valve of tank, reducing or stopping fuel flow.
Frost may form in line to fuel filter. On new tank installations it is good practice to blow some fuel
out of liquid line to remove any water that might be present. So this in an open area. Use same
method when fuel is found to contain water.
93
Another method is to empty tank filler hose of gas and pour one pint of alcohol (methanol) in filler
hose. Attach hose to tank and inject alcohol which will absorb the water and dissipate it through en-
gine.
RICH AND LEAN FUEL MIXTURES
A. GENERAL COMMENTS
1. Rich or lean fuel mixtures cause poor economy, power loss and possible engine
damage. We recommend setting mixtures with an exhaust analyzer on an engine or
chassis dynamometer. (See No.2 below if dynamometer is not available). Air filter
must be connected for all tests.
A. Operate engine at full load, wide open throttle. Set power screw for correct mix-
ture. For best power with economy, analyzer should read 13.0 on gasoline scale,
or approximately 14.4 on LP-Gas scale. Do not move power adjustment too far
between runs. Make sure economizer, if present, is shut off (not operating) when
setting load adjustment.
B. Check part throttle mixture at high vacuum, high r.p.m. Gasoline Scale readings,
14.0 to 14.5 LP-Gas Scale, 15.1 to 15.6 Set Economizer, if present, to show these
readings. (The Beam 400 will economize automatically due to back-seated secon-
dary valve design).
2. When an engine or chassis dynamometer is not available, various methods have been
devised as either a substitute or reasonable facsimile. One of the best is the shorting
out of several spark plugs.
NOTE: Do not pull wires from distributor. When shorting out plugs, be sure to make good
ground connections so that carbon tracks will not form in distributor and give
trouble later. Never pull wires from distributor; short the plug terminals.
A. On a 4 cylinder engine, short all except No. 1 cylinder.
B. With 6 cylinder engines, short out 4 plugs, leaving two opposite positions of dis-
tributor for firing as usual.
C. For 8 cylinder engines, short out 6 plugs, leaving two opposite distributor plugs
firing as usual.
D. Operate engine at full throttle if no governor or just below top governor action.
Adjust power mixture to highest r.p.m. Do not use analyzer with shorting out
method as it will give false readings. Analyze only after reconnecting plugs.
3. When an analyzer is not immediately available, then a quick method of setting power
adjustment, although not as accurate as either of the above, is as follows: Run engine
at a fast constant r.p.m. (about 1400). Attach electric tachometer to eliminate guess-
work.
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A. Be sure power adjustment is rich enough, then run adjustment in until top speed
falls off. Back out until top r.p.m. is again reached and lock it there. Follow up with
an exhaust analyzer test when instrument becomes available.
B. A slight variation of above is to run power adjustment in until top speed begins to
fall off. Note setting. Back out to rich side until engine speed again drops off. Note
setting. Final position of power screw should be slightly on the rich side of the mid-
position point.
C. Economizer, when present, can also be set at 1400 r.p.m. Back out adjustment
slowly until peak r.p.m. is reached and lock it there. Exhaust analyzer should read
between 14.0 and 14.5 on gasoline scale of 15.1 to 15.6 on LP-Gas scale.
CAUTION: The analyzer may reverse itself on mixtures leaner than 14.5 on gasoline scale and
show anywhere from 13.2 to 14.2. To check, partially choke the air inlet at a fast en-
gine speed.
A. If speed remains about the same, and meter shows richer, then reading is true.
B. If speed increases noticeably and meter shows leaner, then the air-fuel ratio is
dangerously lean. Check analyzer and ventilate it well before continuing.
B. CHECKING FOR TOO RICH A MIXTURE
1. Run engine at fast steady speed and check for rich mixture by one of the following:
A. If possible, pinch dry-gas hose to see if the leaner mixture speeds up engine.
B. Mark setting. Run power screw in. If mixture was set too rich, engine will speed
up.
2. Objectionable or strong odors generally come from overly rich mixtures. Check idle;
set little leaner. A restricted air filter (too full of oil) can cause rich mixtures. Try with
and without air filter connected.
3. If an oxy-catalyst is present, compare analyzer readings with muffler disconnected.

Mixtures tend to be too rich when set with oxy-catalyst connected.
4. Popping back in exhaust system may indicate rich mixture, although unburnt gas may
be getting into exhaust line from ignition failure or open exhaust valve.
C. CORRECTING RICH MIXTURES
When unable to set mixture LEAN enough:
1. Check choke to see if it is closed, even partially. (Exception is closed automatic choke
on cold engine).
2. Carburetor or venture too small.
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3. Too much fuel getting by power adjustment. Casting or assembly defective.
4. Air filter restricted. If mixture is too rich, remove air filter and make test run. If read-
ing on analyzer then shows leaner mixture, trouble is confined to air filter.
Trouble can be:
A. Too small capacity. Install larger unit.
B. Clogged with dirt. Clean element.
C. Oil level too high. Remove excess.
D. Oil too heavy or dirty. Replace.
5. Secondary regulator leaking excessively or primary regulator pressure too great, also
causing poor off-idle operation. Can also make it difficult to set power and cruise mix-
tures sufficiently lean. Covered in parts 6 and 7 of “Fuel System Leaks With Engine
Stopped”.
6. Liquid fuel passing through regulator and carburetor, forming frost, would indicate
leaking regulator or water circulation through vaporizer-heater is impaired. Covered
under “Freeze-Ups and Frost”.
D. CHECKING FOR TOO LEAN A MIXTURE
Excessively lean mixtures will cause engine overheating.
1. Popping back in the intake system generally indicates lean mixture.
2. Run engine at fast, constant speed. Check for lean mixture by one of the following
methods:
A. Restrict air inlet to richen mixture. Speed increase would indicate lean mixture set-
ting.
B. Depress primer or secondary diaphragm. If set too lean, speed will increase.
C. Mark and back out power screw. If mixture was set too lean, engine will speed up.
E. CORRECTING LEAN MIXTURES
When unable to set mixture RICH enough:
1. Check dry-gas fittings and hose for restrictions. Check for ample capacity; either hose
too small or too many elbow fittings. (Never use street elbows in dry-gas line). Look
for collection of oil at any low spot in dry-gas line.
2. If due to insufficient dry-gas supply and other items have checked, then look for the
following:
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A. Fuel tank empty or engine running on vapor. Excess flow valve may be closed or
dip tube broken above liquid line in fuel tank.
B. Fuel filter dirty or clogged.
C. Fuel line restricted. Look for cold spot.
D. Secondary diaphragm too stiff or stretched too tightly.
E. Secondary regulator full of oil, hindering movement or diaphragm.
F. Secondary regulator vent hole plugged.
G. Primary regulator pressure too low.
H. Venturi too large.
I. Vaporizer-regulator of inadequate capacity.
J. Restriction in gas space around venturi or in fuel passage around power screw.
Fuel openings too small or fuel passage holes into venturi might be too small.
K. Solenoid lockoff port too small for installation, more likely only on vapor conver-
sion.
3. Although rare, it does happen: See if venturi has been installed backwards. To draw
properly, fuel must enter after small diameter restriction.
4. Spud-in defective.
A. Check for proper installation of spud-in. Unless proper venturi action is achieved,
lean mixture may result.
B. Spud-in nipple may be to small to pass sufficient fuel to engine.
C. Spud-in nipple itself may be full of foreign matter.
5. A ruptured or loose secondary diaphragm (or dry-gas hose) would bleed air into the
system and require rich power screw settings to compensate for air leaks. This would
spoil operation of regulator through entire range. Engine might not run at all.
6. Determine if sufficient fuel is flowing through regulator. Connect water manometer or

sensitive altimeter to dry-gas line or secondary regulator chamber. Check water col-
umn at full throttle, high r.p.m. Two inches of water column or less should fully open
secondary regulator. (Seventy-five feet of altitude on altimeter scale equals approxi-
mately 2” water suction).
7. If checking with manometer shows secondary regulator is restricted, proceed as

follows:
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A. Remove secondary cover and secondary diaphragm from regulator.
B. Turn on ignition switch to open lockoff. Place temporary short across any vacuum
switch or oil pressure switch.
C. Push secondary lever completely open. After a few seconds liquid should appear.
D. If liquid does not appear, then fuel line between regulator and fuel tank is re-
stricted, or vapor is being withdrawn from fuel tank.
E. See if fuel line is connected to both vapor and liquid valve on tank. Liquid valve
should be open and vapor valve closed. For further service on regulator, see spe-
cific sheets on equipment being used.
8. Beam regulators having built-in vacuum lockoff (all except model 400), require proper
vacuum connection. A small leak in line could cause vacuum diaphragm to partially
close off secondary regulator. With engine running, suck vacuum diaphragm down to
see if engine speeds up.
POWER LOSS
A. DUE TO IGNITION
1. Spot check ignition system output. Hold a spark plug wire about 1/4” from plug termi-
nal and run engine at high speed. Spark should jump gap steadily. If trouble is indi-
cated, make complete check of ignition components for condition and adjustments.
Faulty spark plugs, ignition cables or ignition coil. Ignition points burned, pitted or
sticking. Reversed polarity of ignition coil, resulting in weak spark, is covered under
“Hard Starting-Ignition”.
2. Learn to read spark plugs, they can help you diagnose trouble. A black color indicates
too cold a plug. White, with brown spots or blisters shows plug is too hot. Change plug
range to suit the engine and engine needs, never to suit the fuel. Generally, one range
colder plug than gasoline recommendation will fill needs of engine of LP-Gas.
3. Check for retarded spark. More advanced spark timing is required for slower burning
LP-Gas. If compression ration is unchanged, LP setting is usually a few degrees ad-
vanced over gasoline.
Set spark carefully and accurately, never by guesswork. Each engine must be treated
individually, never as a group. Determine best spark timing on chassis dynamometer,
or one of the methods described.
A. Tachometer test: Short out enough spark plugs to let engine run at middle speed
with wide open throttle. (Not against governor). Move distributor until latest set-
ting is found that produces maximum engine speed. Lock in that position.
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B. Road test: Use either a stop watch or watch with a sweep second hand. Make test
runs over the same section of road in same direction each time. Approach starting
point at same speed each time.
Use watch and time wide open throttle acceleration from 10 to 50 m.p.h. or other
convenient speed. Do this several times until distributor position is found that pro-
duces the best result. Lock it there.
Caution: To prevent spark knock on vehicles with dual fuel operation, use ethyl
gasoline as the standby fuel. Same spark setting will then be satisfac-
tory for both fuels.
4. Check automatic advance operation of distributor. Use a timing light and watch for
movement of timing mark when engine speed is changed. A simpler check is explained
in Item 5 under “Engine Misses on Acceleration”.
5. If engine runs rough, check for cross-firing between ignition cables. Separate the ca-
bles.
B. DUE TO SOLENOID VALVE
An under capacity solenoid valve would cause lean mixtures. A defective solenoid valve would
likely cut off fuel entirely. Make sure trouble is not vacuum or oil pressure switch wired in series
with valve.
C. DUE TO AIR FILTER
Check air filter for restriction. Dirty or overfilled with oil. A lower oil level than for gasoline is gener-
ally recommended. Take air-fuel readings at a good road speed, with and without air filter con-
nected. If mixture is excessively rich when connected, air filter needs cleaning or replacing with lar-
ger capacity unit. A balance tube may be necessary. (See Terminology).
D. DUE TO ENGINE AND OTHER FACTORS
1. Engine overheated. See “Engine Overheats”.
2. Air intake unusually hot due to especially warm weather. Try running air intake out-
side engine compartment.
3. Crankcase oil too heavy or level too high.
4. Lack of lubrication.
5. Excessive resistance from: dragging brakes, tight wheel bearings, misalignment of

power transmitting units or rear axle, under-inflated tires, etc.
6. Dry clutch slippage. Check torque converter fluid level.
7. Valve timing incorrect.
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8. Valves sometimes have a tendency to tighten up on LP operation. Our experience has
shown that valve rotators are not necessary with LP-Gas operation and in some in-
stances are detrimental.
9. An irregular high speed miss, occurring only after engine is thoroughly heated, may be
caused by insufficient exhaust valve guide clearance, especially with hydraulic type
lifts. Valve sticking will become noticeable only after exhaust manifold reaches highest
temperatures.
10. Check for low or uneven compression. Determine if trouble is caused by valves, rings,
pistons, head gasket or loose spark plug.
11. Altitude has a decided effect on performance. A vehicle adjusted at lower altitudes
may lack performance at higher altitudes. May require changes in venturi or other ad-
justments if expected to perform adequately at different altitude. However, remember
that power loss will be about 3% for every 1000 foot increase in altitude.
12. LP-Gas fuel has high anti-knock values. When converting a tractor or truck engine,
give consideration to increasing compression ratio. Consult engine manufacturer’s rec-
ommendations before making change.
Sometimes an increase in engine compression ratio may result in over-stressing cer-

tain parts. Some applications are more satisfactory when compression is not altered.
Many engine manufacturers will suggest changes necessary to increase compression
ratio. High compression pistons and/or cylinder heads are generally available for this
purpose.
E. DUE TO MANIFOLDS
1. Poor fuel distribution. Intake manifold leaking.
2. Exhaust pipe, muffler or tail pipe partially restricted.
3. Check exhaust manifold heat deflector for proper operation. If deflection valve or plate
is tied in one position, be sure heat is off intake manifold when operating on LP-Gas.
4. Additional cooling of intake manifold will increase power output on LP-Gas. Intake
manifold heating devices are necessary vaporize gasoline, but LP-Gas, vaporized be-
fore it reaches the manifold, could not revert to liquid state. By keeping manifold cool,
a greater volume of fuel and air mixture can be drawn in during the intake stroke.
F. DUE TO FUEL FILTER
Fuel filter restricted with foreign matter. Close tank valve and run engine to purge fuel lines. Clean
out filter as follows:
1. On some models, remove filter drain plug and crack tank valve to blow out sediment.
2. On throw-away type, reverse filter in line (leaving outlet open) and blow out dirt. Re-
place in line, maintaining proper direction of flow.
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CAUTION: Do not blow out filter while engine is running, close to fire, inside of building,
etc.
G. DUE TO TANK AND FUEL LINES
1. Check fuel line between tank and regulator for proximity to heat that could cause ex-
pansion of liquid fuel to vapor. This could lean out fuel mixtures.
2. Check fuel line for damage, causing restriction.
3. Vapor valve open or partly open.
4. Excess flow valve not open completely.
5. Open the liquid line at tank valve to see if liquid is flowing. If liquid level in tank is up
and liquid does not flow through valve, then dip tube on liquid outlet is either ruptured
or broken.
A small dip tube leak can permit vapor to enter fuel lines and restrict flow of liquid fuel
sufficiently to cause lean mixtures. Tank will show frost or sweat. If a dip tube leak is
found, consult tank supplier, as repairs are necessary.
H. DUE TO GOVERNOR
1. Check engine governor for proper operation.
2. Be sure governor is not cutting in at too low an engine speed.
I. DUE TO CARBURETOR
1. Both throttle arm and butterfly must open fully. Linkage may be out of adjustment.
2. Choke not opening properly.
3. When using a carburetor adapter, the choke in gasoline carburetor acts as a throttle.
Be sure it is fully open. (Do not remove automatic choke on dual-fuel changeovers,
but be sure it does open when engine is warm.)
4. See that proper carburetor has been installed.
5. Make sure proper venturi size has been used. Too large a venturi will cut down
acceleration. Too small a venturi may reduce top speed. Be sure venturi is properly
installed.
6. If spud-in, check carefully or proper installation and suitable capacity.
J. DUE TO REGULATOR
1. Make sure liquid fuel is reaching regulator.
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2. Primary regulator must maintain pressure when under load. Check with 0-15 pound
pressure gauge at primary test hole. Set to manufacturer’s specifications.
3. Be sure secondary, regulator vent is open and not restricted. Do not use street elbows
in vent opening if a balance line is used.
4. Secondary regulator breather vent must not be in direct air stream of fan. The added
air pressure against diaphragm could cause rich mixture.
5. Check balance line (if present) for proper size, correct installation and possible restric-
tion.
6. Excessive oil collected in secondary regulator. If found, install sediment trap.
7. Secondary regulator diaphragm torn or ruptured.
8. Secondary diaphragm not properly secured.
9. Depress secondary diaphragm and check fuel flow at dry-gas outlet.
10. Run a water manometer check on secondary regulator to be sure it is feeding properly
when under load.
11. Regulator too small for engine.
12. If regulator shows frosting, see “Freeze-Ups and Frost”.
K. DUE TO MIXTURES
See “Rich and Lean Fuel Mixtures”.
POOR ECONOMY
1. Any item under “Power Loss” could cause poor economy.
2. Examine spark plugs for proper heat range.
3. Placement of air filter in cooler air outside of hot engine compartment usually results
in better economy. A cooler intake manifold will usually improve economy on LP-Gas.
4. Test for vacuum leaks.
5. Examine for fuel leaks.
6. Measure tank. Check actual capacity against marked capacity.
7. Check for proper calibration of gas gauge.
8. Metering device at pump inaccurate.
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9. See if tank is being properly filled. Pump could throw liquid through outage gauge
when tank is only partially full.
10. Check air-fuel ratio. Too rich or too lean will cause poor economy.
11. If mixture at low vacuum (power) is set correctly but mixture on high vacuum
(cruising) goes rich, venturi may be to small. Check manufacturer’s specifications.
12. Check for proper adjustment and proper operation of any economizer in system.
13. With too fast vapor withdrawal, tank pressure may register zero when there is ample
fuel. If situation continues, obtain larger fuel tank of switch to liquid withdrawal sys-
tem.
14. Check uneconomical operating habits such as jack rabbit starts and stops, racing en-
gine, etc.
ENGINE OVERHEATS
A. DUE TO COOLING SYSTEM
1. System low in water or radiator too small.
2. In pressure cooling system, cap on radiator missing or loose.
3. Water circulation slowed down by rust, scale or dirt in water jackets.
4. Alcohol type anti-freeze being used during mild weather. Replace with water.
5. Radiator dirty or clogged.
6. Radiator exterior clogged with dirt, leaves or insects.
7. Radiator shutters not operating properly.
8. Water hose defective or rotted, allowing loosened strips of rubber to impede water cir-
culation.
9. Water hose may be rotted and so weak that pump suction causes it to collapse on fast
engine speed, thus restricting flow. Inspect upper and lower radiator hoses when run-
ning engine at fast speed.
10. Upper radiator tank must show full flow of water.
11. Baffle in top radiator tank may be bent so as to interfere with free discharge of water
from hose.
12. Fan belt slipping. Fan not shrouded or not close enough to radiator.
13. Water pump not circulating properly.
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14. Water pump impeller loose on shaft or impeller blades badly corroded.
15. Water pump seal leaks allowing air to be drawn into water, reducing cooling ability.
16. Thermostat fails to open fully or sticks closed.
17. Thermostat fails to open at correct temperature or opens at too high a temperature.
18. Cylinder head gasket installed incorrectly, blocking off water holes.
19. Water circulation impeded by installation of wrong cylinder head gasket.
B. DUE TO IGNITION SYSTEM
1. Improper ignition timing, either early or late.
A. Late timing would probably be first noticed in lack of power.
B. Early timing might not be recognized on LP as detonation is generally not noticed.
2. Check automatic advance of distributor.
3. Pre-ignition.
4. Pinging.
C. DUE TO ENGINE OIL SYSTEM
1. Oil level in crankcase much too low or too high.
2. Crankcase oil much too heavy.
3. Oil filter restricted.
4. Check oil for proper pressure and correct flow.
5. Examine grease in transmission and differential housings.
D. DUE TO FUEL SUPPLY
1. Fuel mixture too lean.
2. Engine operating on vapor when it should be liquid.
E. DUE TO ENGINE
1. Engine underpowered for job.
2. Engine operated under prolonged lugging condition.
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3. Exhaust system clogged.
4. Bearings or pistons tight in recently overhauled engine.
5. Excessive friction in engine or elsewhere in power transmitting units.
6. Compressing extremely high for engine design. Raising compression is the only known
way to increase engine power without an increase in operating temperatures. How-
ever, going too far on a particular engine might restrict cooling chambers and hinder
cooling of spark plugs, valves, etc.
ENGINE DIES
A. ENGINE DIES WHEN BROUGHT TO IDLE
1. Engine may require tune up. Check breaker points, plugs, valve clearance, etc.
2. Loose wiring to electric lockoff or to engine distributor.
3. Check gasoline shutoff. On combination fuel conversion, gasoline may be leaking into
fuel bowl and not be noticed at higher speed.
4. Vacuum leaks.
5. Check compression. One or two poor cylinders.
6. Idle system.
A. Idle mixture not adjusted properly. Reset.
B. Idle speed too slow-throttle goes complexity closed. Increase idling speed and re-
set mixture.
C. On combination fuel conversion, make certain gasoline supply line is closed com-
pletely. A small leak, possibly not noticeable at high speed, may cause engine to
die when returned to idle.
D. Too large a venturi, or venturi installed improperly, can create this condition.
Beam system depends on venturi action for proper idle.
7. Air disturbance. Disturbing air flow past air intake. Occurs frequently when taking in
air from outside engine compartment. A strong wind (or tail wind on rear engine
vehicles) can cause this condition. Add a suitable deflector to air inlet. A balance tube
from air intake to secondary regulator breather may be necessary.
8. Dry-Gas Line.
A. Restriction in line. Possibly foreign object, oil, kink in hose, or too small an opening
in some fitting. Never use street elbows in dry-gas line.
105
B. Air leak in dry-gas line between regulator and carburetor. Use hose clamps at
connections. Check hose for rupture or porosity.
9. Regulator.
A. Regulator must be mounted in position it was designed to operate. Most unites are
designed to be installed vertically, not lying down or leaning at an angle. “Tilting”
affects regulator sensitivity.
B. Upsetting air stream blown across secondary regulator vent opening from fan, or
deflected from some object.
C. “Surging” or movement of diaphragm caused by sudden stops could be causing

engine to die. It may be necessary to relocate reg ulator so that diaphragm is
Parallel to motion of vehicle.
D. Oil deposits hindering action of secondary diaphragm. Drain off oil.
E. Secondary diaphragm too stiff. Replace.
F. Secondary diaphragm ruptured. Over prime unit, place soap bubble over breather
vent hole. If in doubt, remove secondary cover and inspect diaphragm. Tighten
screws securely.
G. Binding or sticking of regulator lever arms, hinges, etc.
H. Primary regulator may not close off properly, allowing excessively rich mixture.
Engine would also stop when returned quickly to idle from higher engine speed.
B. ENGINE DIES WHEN PULLING A LOAD
If after stopping, engine will start and run smoothly or normally after a few minutes, temporary
stoppage of either ignition or fuel is indicated. Cure trouble by checking the following:
1. Loose wiring in ignition system or to solenoid valve, causing intermittent open or short
circuit.
2. Solenoid failure. A swollen seat (possibly gas pocket under soft seat) in solenoid or
primary regulator, which gradually returns to normal during shut down period.
3. Fuel filter requires cleaning.
4. Excess flow valve at tank snapping shut.
5. Fuel line crushed or kinked. Point of restricting will be cold or show frost.
6. Dip tube broken in tank, causing drop in fuel pressure. Tank will be cold or seating.
7. Regulator mechanisms sticking or binding. A pressure reading of primary regulator

when such condition occurs may narrow trouble to either fuel supply or ignition failure.
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8. Check Beam vacuum lockoff diaphragm. A rupture (or leaking vacuum connection)
may allow bumper to ride against secondary lever arm, reducing fuel flow at lower
vacuum reading (during pulling).
ENGINE MISSES
A. ENGINE MISSES AT ALL SPEEDS
1. Spark plug fouled or porcelain broken.
2. Spark plug wire shorted.
3. Two plug wires interchanged.
4. Lack of spark, or weak spark, at one or more plugs.
5. Spark plug cables faulty.
6. Cross firing between cables. Separate them.
7. Weak battery, low generator voltage, poor terminal connections, etc.
8. Distributor or rotor faulty.
9. Distributor not advancing properly.
10. Breaker points burned or pitted.
11. Breaker point gap incorrect.
12. Coil or condenser not up to par.
13. Ignition coil wire in reverse polarity.
14. Primary circuit restricted or open intermittently.
15. Primary circuit shorted intermittently.
16. Secondary circuit restricted or open intermittently.
17. Secondary circuit shorted intermittently.
18. Cylinder head gasket blown between tow cylinders.
19. Engine valves sticking.
20. Valve held open slightly by hydraulic lift.
21. Intake or exhaust valve spring broken.
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22. Intake system air leak.
23. Water in fuel system.
24. Gasoline leak into intake system.
25. Fuel mixture incorrect. See “Rich and Lean Fuel Mixtures”.
26. Secondary regulator diaphragm ruptured, loose, or too stiff.
27. Dry-gas line porous or loose.
B. ENGINE MISSES AT HIGH SPEED
1. Hot spark plug. Change to colder type. Note that hot plug may be due to loose instal-
lation or lack of plug gasket, if required. Spark plugs can fire satisfactorily under light
loads and miss at high speeds. Replace.
2. When ignition system throws a hot spark at high engine speeds and engine has irregu-
lar miss at full throttle, high tension wire insulation or spark plugs could be breaking
down. To check, inspect plug wires in complete darkness. Gun engines and notice
where corona (sparking) appears. To eliminate corona from wires, cover then with
loom or vinalyte tape. If plugs have excessive corona, try one range colder.
3. Breaker point gap too wide.
4. Breaker arm spring weak.
5. Breaker arm binding or sticking.
6. Distributor advance not functioning properly.
7. Improper ignition timing.
8. Pre-Ignition.
9. Weak spark. An engine which operates satisfactorily at low speeds, but missed on high
speeds, may indicate coil is going bad.
10. Solenoid valve restricted or undersize. (Especially on vapor withdrawal). Correct

Immediately before lean mixtures can cause damage.
11. Air filter dirty or restricted.
12. Valve timing incorrect.
13. Engine valves sticking.
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14. An irregular high speed miss, occurring only after exhaust manifold reaches highest
temperatures, may be exhaust valve sticking caused by insufficient guide clearance.
Occurs especially with hydraulic type lifts.
15. Valve springs too weak for prompt closing.
16. Valve springs broken.
17. Valve springs shimmy.
18. Exhaust manifold, muffler or tail pipe restricted.
19. Exhaust manifold clogged with carbon.
20. Fuel filter or fuel line restriction. Look for cold spot. See “Rich and Lean Fuel
Mixtures”.
21. Throttle lever loose. (Check governor action).
22. Choke partially closed.
23. Gasoline shutoff leaking.
24. Primary regulator sticking.
25. Intermittent or spotty fuel delivery causing momentary mixture too weak for
combustion.
C. ENGINE MISSES AT LOW OR IDLE SPEEDS
Covered under “Poor Idling”
D. ENGINE MISSES ON ACCELERATION (FLAT SPOT OFF IDLE)’
1. Faulty ignition usually causes more pronounced roughness than imperfect compression
or carburetion. Check distributor and spark coil. (A slight miss due to ignition failure
on gasoline operation will be more pronounced on LP-Gas).
2. Spark too far retarded.
3. Distributor loose.
4. Spark advance mechanism loose or not operating correctly.
5. Vacuum advance connection leak. Diaphragm or spring broken. To determine, crank

engine with started, holding choke closed, throttle open. If distributor plate will ad-
vance and return, parts are not broken. Breaker plate will not advance if diaphragm is
broken. If it advances but does not return, spring is broken.
6. Spark plugs fouled or damp.
109
7. Spark plug gaps too wide. Set to specification or .001 or .002 under.
8. Plug porcelain below par.
9. Weak spark.
10. Air filter restricted.
11. Engine valves tight or sticking.
12. Gasoline leaking into system.
13. Fuel line or fuel filter restricted. Excess flow valve almost closed. Only vapor getting
through (unless engine maintains high speed after it arrives at speed). Point of restric-
tion would be colder or “sweating”.
14. Engine idle speed too low. Speed up, especially when using mechanical governor.
15. A malfunction of governor could be closing throttle prematurely.
16. Venturi too large. Try using smaller size.
17. Economizer setting (if present) too lean or mechanism sticking.
18. Bad operation up to medium r.p.m. may indicate improper idle adjustment.
19. Idle mixture too lean. Reset to rich side and recheck for hesitation.
20. Mixture too lean, caused by too small dry-gas hose. Too may reducing fittings or
elbows between regulator and carburetor. Never use street elbows.
21. Check for air leaks into dry-gas line. Clamp all hose connections. If regulator has more
than one dry-gas outlet, or carburetor more than one inlet, be sure alternate openings
are plugged.
22. Mount regulator vertically when designed to be installed in that position. A regulator
leaning back or tilted forward will likely have poor low speed characteristics.
23. Excessive oil collected in secondary regulator. Oil may be too stiff to run out
through drain plug. Increase size of drain if need is indicated.
24. Secondary regulator atmospheric vent restricted.
25. Secondary diaphragm ruptured or too stiff.
26. Secondary diaphragm not properly held around outside edges.
27. Secondary regulator arm too low or too high. (More likely too low).
28. Secondary regulator spring too stiff.
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29. Surging may indicate secondary regulator arm has too much play on hinge, and does
not seat the same each time.
30. Regular mechanisms binding.
31. Check electric primer (if present) for correct wiring, short circuit, sticking or improp-
erly adjusted piston travel.
32. Look for too much travel between two sources of fuel, such as between two ports in
secondary regulator. Or too much economizer travel, if economizer is used.
On Beam 400 regulator, secondary lever arm may travel too far after pilot port is fully
open before large back seated valve starts to open. Repair regulator.
33. Primary regulator pressure dropping too low or to zero.
34. Check opening of final regulator with water manometer. (Details in section E6 of “Rich
and Lean Fuel Mixtures”).
35. Beam regulator with vacuum lockoff: built-in vacuum diaphragm must stay down on
acceleration. Check spring tension, diaphragm itself and vacuum connection to intake
manifold. Vacuum line must not leak air. Optional vacuum connection on Beam 120
must be properly plugged.
BACKFIRE
(Explosion or popping back in intake manifold)
1. Two spark plug wires interchanged.

2. Improper ignition timing.
3. Leakage across distributor cap may allow spark to occur in a cylinder on its intake
stroke.
4. Intake valve leaking or sticking. Intake valve spring weak or broken.
5. Water in fuel.
6. Fuel mixture to lean.
MUFFLER EXPLOSION
(Sharp explosion caused by temporary cessation of ignition).
1. Intermittent open circuit in primary ignition.

2. Intermittent short circuit in primary ignition.
3. Short circuit in coil or in the secondary wire from coil to distributor.
4. Slight popping in exhaust on decelerations can indicate retarded spark.
5. Popping back may be caused by high vacuum on deceleration in before-the-fly idle
systems.
6. Explosions which occur several days apart may be due to gradually failing condenser
and or coil.
111
ENGINE KICKBACK ON STARTING
Ignition too far advanced.
SPARK KNOCK, PING, DETONATION
Most likely to occur under load with open throttle at low or moderate speed. A higher engine speed
(lower gear) is recommended. Detonation is encouraged by:
1. Spark advanced too far.
2. Engine overheated.
3. Water circulation sluggish. Water jackets clogged especially around exhaust valves or
spark plugs. May be confined to one or two cylinders.
4. Compression too high.
5. Check for heavy carbon deposits which increase compression ratio. If formed with LP
operation, consult your oil supplier. (Also check air-fuel ratio. Excessively rich mix-
ture could cause carbon deposits).
6. Spark plugs too hot.
7. Rough spots, sharp or thin edges in combustion chamber.
8. Hot mixture due to hot engine or hot weather.
9. Fuel mixture too lean.
PRE-IGNITION
Mixture set on fire before spark occurs by red hot spot in combustion chamber such as: incandescent
particle of carbon; thin piece of protruding metal; overheated spark plug (may be loose); overheat-
ing accompanied by pinging. Bright red-hot exhaust valve may be due to: a leak; lack of tappet
clearance; sticking valve; valve spring weak or broken.
An engine which continues to run after ignition is shut off can be caused by any item mentioned
above or, quite often, by red-hot carbon particles resting on heavy carbon deposit in very hot
engine.
This condition of engine continuing to run does occasionally occur in late model gasoline operated
automobiles (with four barrel carburetors) when gasoline carburetor is set at too fast an idle.
AFTER-BURNING
Most likely to occur on lean mixture. This subdued put-putting at tail pipe may be due to leaky ex-
haust valves which permit mixture to finish combustion in muffler. If muffler or exhaust pipe is red-
hot, let it cool, as there is some danger of setting vehicle on fire.
112
REFERS TO VAPOR SYSTEM ONLY
Before proceeding, be sure everything common to liquid systems, such as mixtures, ignition, timing,
etc. has been checked.
1. Tank pressure may be zero and operator feels he is out of fuel or using too much fuel.
Let tank “warm up” and use again. It may still contain fuel. If condition persists, use
larger fuel tank or switch to liquid withdrawal system.
2. A frosting or sweating tank is too small for the engine. Too rapid withdrawal of vapor
will lower the fuel temperature down to the boiling point, leaving liquid dormant. (No
pressure). Frost or ice may form on tank up to liquid level. Use of straight propane
would improve vaporization characteristics. Consider use of larger fuel tank of switch
to liquid withdrawal.
3. Tank fuel pressure too low. If pressure falls rapidly it could be caused by using too
small a tank or from having withdrawn most of the propane from a butane-propane
mixture. Continuing to use same tank for vapor withdrawal will allow accumulation of
more butane. If possible, tank should be used for liquid withdrawal long enough to use
up accumulated butane.
4. Frost on regulator, dry-gas hose or carburetor indicates vapor tank is permitting liquid
to be withdrawn. Look for the following troubles:
A. Tank too full, liquid sloshing over.
B. Connection made to wrong tank valve.
C. If liquid withdrawal valve is tee’d into system, see that valve is closed.
D. Mounting position wrong for tank design. Look for spot marked TOP. Tank is either
vertical or horizontal style-mount in position it was designed to be used.
E. A horizontal type tank may not be rotated to proper position.
F. On horizontal tanks having end or side mounted fittings, if inspection discloses liq-
uid is emitted (not just when too full) then tube connecting vapor service valve to
vapor space is damaged or leaking. This allows liquid to enter discharge tube. Ro-
tate end mount tank to determine if properly marked. Defective tank would require
repair, preferably by tank manufacturer.
G. On stationary engine installations, during periods of idleness, the vapor fuel (at
tank pressure) standing in a long line will return to its liquid state. When put back
into use, regulator will frost and remain so until engine is shut off. We recommend
a trap downhill in line to be drained before starting engine. (Always keep secon-
dary regulator close to carburetor).
DISCLAIMER:
PNG Technologies shall have no liability for any consequential loss, injury or damage of any nature whatsoever.
113
TYPICAL FORKLIFT SCHEMATIC
DUAL FUEL
114
AUTOMOTIVE DUAL FUEL SCHEMATIC
LPG & GASOLINE
(CA55-750L, 70, 100, 125, 200)
115
LPG & GASOLINE
(CA200, CA225, CA300, CA475)
116
CNG & GASOLINE - 2.5L (150 CID) & UNDER
(CA55, 70, 100, 125)
117
CNG & GASOLINE - 2.5L (150 CID) & OVER
(CA200, CA225, CA300, CA475)
118
STATIONARY ENGINE SCHEMATIC
NATURAL GAS
(CA55, 70, 100, 125, 200, 225)
119
STATIONARY ENGINE SCHEMATIC
VAPOR PROPANE
(CA55, 70, 125, 200, 225)
120
STATIONARY ENGINE DUAL FUEL
SCHEMATIC
LPG & NATURAL GAS
121
STATIONARY ENGINE DUAL FUEL
SCHEMATIC
VAPOR PROPANE & NATURAL GAS
122
STANDARD DUAL FUEL WIRING
W/ VACUUM LIFT
(CA55, 70, 100, 125, 200, 225)
123
3-WAY VACUUM CONTROL SOLENOID
DUAL FUEL OPERATION
124
TECHNICAL INFORMATION:
AIR-VALVE DIAPHRAGM INSTALLATION
AIR-VALVE ASSEMBLY FOR

CA100, CA125, CA200 & CA225 MIXERS
CA100 CA125
CA200 CA225
MARK ON TOP OF
AIR-VALVE MUST
ALIGN OPPOSITE
AIRHORN, TOWARD
THE VAPOR FITTING
ON MIXER BODY.
IMPROPER INSTALLA-
TION WILL RESULT IN
POOR ENGINE PER-
FORMANCE.
125
TECHNICAL INFORMATION:
LPG CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENT
1. Idle Mixture Adjustment Screw PVC/Fresh Air
Turning the screw “IN” will make the fuel

mixture richer. Fresh Air Inlet
Turning the screw “OUT” will make the fuel

mixture leaner.
The Idle Mixture Adjustment Screw is adjusted

correctly with an exhaust gas analyzer.
Vapor Inlet
Mixture should be adjusted to .50% - .90% CO
(Carbon Monoxide). 1
Idle Mixture
Without an exhaust gas analyzer: Adj. Screw
Turn the idle mixture screw in until engine
Vacuum Port
starts to run rough, or loses RPM or speed.
Then, turn idle screw out approx. 1/2 turn
“OUT” or until engine smoothes out. This will
ensure you’re not in a lean mode but are in a Advanced
2
richer mode so the engine will not burn up valve. Vacuum Port Idle Speed Adj.
2. Idle Speed Adjustment Screw
Idle Speed should always be set to manufacture’s

specifications.
Most engines today idle between 650-750 RPM.

3
3. Power Mixture Adjustment Valve Power Mixture
Adj. Valve
This setting is preset at the factory and should not require adjustment.
This adjustment is only effective when the engine is near full load condition.
NOTE: Can only be adjusted with the engine loaded, or close to the
fully loaded condition.
If adjustment is needed, follow these steps:
1. Set parking brake and block drive wheels.

2. Connect a Tachometer to the engine.
3. Accelerate engine to Full Rated RPM Level.
4. Pull backwards on Tilt Lever until pump reaches hydraulic relief bypass.
The RPM should drop according to the specifications for the hydraulic bypass (Typically 250-500 RPM).
If the RPM will not drop, check and adjust your hydraulic pressure to the manufacturer’s specifications
before continuing.
5. Turn the Power Adjustment Valve until the highest engine RPM is reached.
NOTE: Using an exhaust gas analyzer your percentage of CO should be (.50% - 1.0%).
126
FUEL CHARACTERISTICS
What is LPG?
LPG is “liquefied petroleum gas” commonly known as propane (C3H8 ), a combustible hydrocarbon based fuel. It
comes from the refining of crude oil and natural gas. At normal pressure (29.92” Hg) and temperatures above
-44°F/-45°C, propane remains in its gaseous form. At lower temperatures and/or higher pressures, propane will
become a liquid.
Propane is colorless and odorless. For safety reasons propane is required to be odorized as to indicate posi-
tively, by distinct odor, the presence of gas in air down to a concentration of not over 1/5th the lower level of
flammability (0.4% in air). This is achieved by adding 1.0lbs. Of thiopane, or 1.4lbs of amyl mercaptan per
10,000 gallons of LPG. There are currently three grades of propane available, HD5 for internal combustion en-
gines, commercial propane and propane/butane mix for other uses. The exact composition of propane varies
slightly between different parts of the country and different refineries. Compared to gasoline, the energy of LPG
is 74%.
What is CNG?
CNG is “compressed natural gas”. Natural gas (CH4 ) is naturally occurring mixture of combustible hydrocarbon
gases found in porous formations beneath the earth’s surface. Natural gas is created by the decomposition of
plant and animal remains, under great heat and pressure, over very long periods of time. Natural gas can be
found as:
Nonassociated gas—free gas not in contact with significant amounts of crude oil in the reservoir.
Associated gas—free gas in contact with crude oil in the reservoir.
Dissolved gas—gas in solution with crude oil in the reservoir.
For safety reasons propane is required to be odorized as to indicate positively, by distinct odor, the presence of
gas in air down to a concentration of not over 1/5th the lower level of flammability (1.0% in air). This is
achieved by adding ethyl mercaptan, or thiopane, or amyl mercaptan to the natural gas. Compared to gasoline
the energy content of CNG is 25%.
Propane Natural Gas

Component Volume (%) Component Volume (%)
Propane C3H8 90.00% min. Methane CH4 92.00%
Propylene up to 5.00% Ethane C2H6 3.60%
Butane C4H10 2.00% Propane C3H8 1.00%
Iso-Butane 1.50% Butanes C4H10 0.30%
Methane CH4 1.50% Pentanes C5H12 0.10%
Total 100.00% Hexanes C6H14 0.10%
Carbon Dioxide CO2 1.00%
Nitrogen N2 1.60%
Total 100.00%
127
FUEL CHARACTERISTICS
FUEL CHARACTERISTICS OF VARIOUS FUELS

METHANE PROPANE LNG GASOLINE DIESEL
Comparison of Peak Flame
Temperature
FORMULA CH4 C3H8 CH4 C8H16 C12H26
RESEARCH OCTANE 130 112 130 91-98 The flammability range is the
MOTOR OCTANE # 130 97 130 83-90 distance from the leanest (LEL)
CETANE # -10 5-10 -10 8-14 40-65 to the richest (UEL) mixture of
DENSITY OF LIQ. FUEL
fuel and air that will burn. Fuel
(lbs./ft.³) / (kg/L) 31.78 / .509 26.28 / .421 46.57 / .746 50.44 / .808 with narrower ranges are safer
DENSITY OF GAS to work with but are less versa-
(lbs./ft.³) / (kg/m³) .041 / .6512 .032 / .508 .275 / 4.4
tile because they offer less
BOILING POINT (81-464) /
(°F) / (°C) -259 / -162 -44 / -42 -259 / -162 (27-240) choice of air fuel ratios. CNG
LOWER HEATING VALUE 21,463 / 19,882 / 21,463 / 18,344 / 18,670 / has a peak flame temperature
(BTU/ft.³) / (kJ/L) 49,913 46,238 49,913 42,661 43,419 of 1790°C/3254°F which is
ENERGY CONTENT (VOLUME) 213,300 / 637,500 / 569,200 / 862,100 / 950,400 / 187°C/337°F (9.5%) cooler
(BTU/ft.³) / (kJ/L) 7875 25,535 21,013 31,825 35,082
than the peak flame tempera-
ENERGY (wrt) GASOLINE 25% 74% 66% 100% 110% ture of gasoline at 1977°
ENERGY (wrt) DIESEL 22% 67% 60% 91% 100% C/3591°F. The peak flame tem-
STOICHIOMETRIC A/F RATIO perature of LPG at 1991°
(mass) 17.30 15.70 17.30 14.70 15.00
C/3614°F is only 13°C/23°F
HEAT OF VAPORIZATION
(BTU/lb.) / (kJ/kg) 218 / 507 182 / 423 218 / 507 153 / 355 123 / 286 (less than 1%) higher than
ENERGY OF STOICH. MIXTURE
gasoline.
(BTU/ft.³) / (kJ/L) 97.0 / 3.58 103 / 3.79 97.0 / 3.58 106 / 3.91
AUTO IGNITION TEMP. Volumetric Efficiency
(°F) / (°C) 1004 / 540 842 / 450 842 / 450 428 / 220 437 / 225
PEAK FLAME TEMP.
(°F) / (°C) 3254 / 1790 3614 / 1990 3254 / 1790 3591 / 1977 3729 / 2054 The amount of air entering an
FLAMMABILITY LIMITS (Vol%) 5.3-15 2.1-10.4 1.4-7.6
engine at a particular throttle
angle and load is fixed. Any
DETONATION LIMITS (Vol%) 6.3-13.5 3.4-35 6.3-13.5 1.1-3.3
fuel added to the air before it
FLAME SPREAD RATE (13.1-19.7) /
(ft./s) / (m/s) (4-6) enters the cylinder will displace
MAX. BURNING VEL. IN STP AIR (1.21-1.48) / (1.41-1.71) / (1.21-1.48) / (1.21-1.41) / an equal volume of air and will
(ft./s) / (m/s) (37-45) (43-52) (37-45) (37-43)
reduce the volumetric efficiency
SPECIFIC GRAVITY AT STP (.125-.250) / (.250-.375) /
(lbs./ft.³) / (kg/m³) .034 / .55 .095 / 1.52 .034 / .55 (2-4) (4-6)
and power output of the en-
QUENCHING GAP IN STP AIR gine, reductions are as follows:
(in.) / (mm) .080 / 2.03 .070 / 1.78 .080 / 2.03 .078 / 2 Diesel—less than 1% (approx.)
FLAME VISIBILITY, RELATIVE 0.60 0.60 0.60 1.00 1.00 Gasoline—1-2% (approx.)
FLASH POINT LPG—4% (approx.)
(°F) / (°C) -306 / -188 125 / 52
CNG—9% (approx.)
Comparison of Energy Content
Energy Content per unit of fuel (energy density) is an important factor affecting range and power output of
internal combustion engines.
Comparison of Autoignition Temp.
The autoignition temperature is the temperature at which a fuel will ignite without safer than gasoline or
diesel because the autoignition temperature is much higher. In respect to autoignition temperatures LPG,
CNG and LNG are much safer than gasoline or diesel because the autoignition temperature is much higher.
128
LPG FUEL TANKS
Vapor Withdrawal LP Fuel Tanks
Vapor withdrawal LPG fuel tanks are designed for fuel systems that require fuel to be supplied to the
pressure regulator in vapor form. Since propane expands 270 times as it changes from a liquid to a vapor, far
less fuel can flow through the fuel line to the engine. As a result, vapor withdrawal systems are used primarily
on small displacement engines.
Inside the fuel tank there is a dip tube attached to a vapor outlet port. This dip tube is designed in such
a way that the open end is positioned in the vapor space above the 80% liquid level of the fuel tank when the
tank is properly positioned horizontally or vertically. It is very important that the fuel tank not be filled with LPG
to more than 80% of total water capacity. Overfilling and/or incorrect positioning of the fuel tank may allow
liquid propane to enter the vapor fuel system through the vapor outlet port of the tank, causing the fuel system
to malfunction. Frost forming on the vapor pressure regulator may be an indication that the fuel tank is over-
filled and/or incorrectly in positioned.
On vapor withdrawal fuel systems, the propane, stored as a liquid in the fuel tank is allowed to vaporize
in the tank before entering the fuel system. Since propane absorbs heat when it vaporizes, the surface area of
the fuel tank must be capable of supplying enough heat from the surrounding air to support the vaporization
process. If the surface area of the fuel tank is not large enough to support the vaporization process, fuel pres-
sure will drop and a reduction of engine power output may result. Frost forming on the outside of the fuel tank
is an indication that the surface area of the fuel tank is not large enough to support the rate of vaporization.
Liquid Withdrawal LP Fuel Tanks
Liquid withdrawal LPG fuel tanks are designed for fuel systems that require fuel to be supplied to the
pressure regulator in liquid form. Inside the fuel tank there is a dip tube attached to a liquid outlet port. This dip
tube is designed so that the open end reaches the bottom of the fuel tank when the tank is positioned properly.
Incorrect positioning of the fuel tank may allow propane vapor to enter the liquid outlet port of the tank. A lack
of engine power output and/or frost on the fuel tank may be an indication that the tank is not positioned prop-
erly.
20% VAPOR
VAPOR OUTLET
20% VAPOR
80% LIQUID
129
CARBURETION THEORY & OPERATION
Carburetor. The carburetors are all air valve design, utilizing a relatively constant pressure drop to
draw fuel into the carburetor from cranking to full load. The advantage of this type of construction is a strong
“signal” or vacuum set up by a metering spring (A) holding the air valve (B) closed. A pressure drop (C) under
the air valve of approximately six inches of water column is required to open the valve during cranking. The
vacuum also is communicated to the converter (D) to allow fuel flow.
With the engine stopped, fuel is sealed off within the carburetor as well as in the converter and fuelock,
giving a triple seal for safety.
The air-fuel metering device, called a mixer, is completely self-contained. It requires no linkage or idle
vacuum line to the intake manifold. This construction allows tremendous flexibility in installing the mixer or
complete carburetor.
Converter. The converter is a combined two-stage regulator and vaporizer. It receives liquid fuel at
tank pressure from the filter/fuelock (E) and reduces that pressure in two stages to slightly less than atmos-
pheric (F). When the engine is cranking or running, a partial vacuum is created in the fuel line to the carburetor
(D), which opens the regulator permitting fuel to the carburetor.
In the process of reducing the pressure upwards of approximately 180psi in the tank to atmospheric
pressure, the liquid propane expands to become a vapor, causing refrigeration. To compensate for this and to
assist in vaporization, water from the engine cooling system circulates through a heat exchanger (G). The regu-
lator seals off fuel flow when the engine is stopped.
We make three sizes of converters, the Model J which is rated at 100 HP, the Model E rated 325 HP, and
the H-420 which is rated at 400 HP. All are available with a variety of options.
Fuelock/Filter. The carburetion system starts with the filter and fuel lockoff. This is the VFF-30-2. The
filter/fuelock is vacuum operated. When a slight vacuum is sensed (2” W.C.), it opens and allows fuel from the
tank to flow through a fuel filter and then to the converter. Any time the engine stops, whether the ignition key
is on or off, the fuel is shut off automatically. Also, it filters any large particles of solid material out of the fuel
before they reach the high pressure side of the converter.
130
DIAPHRAGM OPERATED
AIR-GAS VALVE CARBURETION
All but one model of the air valve carburetors use 1. Idle Air Bypass Adjustment (I). The total vol-
diaphragms of fiberglass and synthetic rubber or ume of air and fuel passing the closed throttle at
silicone material. Model 50 uses a metal piston idle is constant. The idle adjustment bypasses a
with a sealing ring in place of a diaphragm for the portion of incoming air around the air valve open-
purpose of reducing the carburetor size for small ing. As the idle adjustment is opened, the air
engines. The principal applied is the same for valve partially closes, thereby closing the gas me-
both. Cranking the engine lowers pressure in tering valve and leaning the idle air-fuel mixture.
shaded area as piston decends. Through passages
(P) in the air valve, lowered pressure is commu- 2. Power Mixture Adjustment (A). Controls mix-
nicated to upper side of diaphragm (D). As a re- tures when gas metering valve is withdrawn from
sult, atmospheric pressure pushing upward on the the jet. This adjustment is effective only when
diaphragm lists it against the downward pressure the engine approaches full-load condition and can
of the metering spring (S). be set only with the engine loaded, at or close to
its rated RPM limit.
Approximately 0.2 PSI (6” W.C.) of pressure is
required to lift the air valve off its seat. Approxi- Mixtures between idle and full-load conditions are
mately 0.5. PSI (13.8” W.C.) lifts the valve to the controlled by the gas metering valve shape. The
top of its travel in full open position. gas metering valve is shaped to produce lean
mixtures at light loads and increasingly rich mix-
Lowered pressure communicated to the top of the tures at heavier loads and higher engine speeds.
diaphragm varies with engine speed and position
of throttle valve opening (T). The air valve as- The shape of the gas valve is designed between
sembly measures the air flow into the engine by the largest and smallest cubic inch displacement
moving precisely in response to the demands of upon with the carburetor will be installed.
the engine and throttle valve position.
The controlled pressure drop of 0.2 to 0.5 PSI (6”

- 13.8” W.C.) set up by the metering spring pro-
vides the signal or force necessary to draw fuel
into the air stream within the carburetor. The gas
metering valve (V) is attached to the air valve
assembly and is shaped to admit the correct
amount of fuel from the gas jet to mix with in-
coming air at any opening of the air valve.
Carburetors provide two limited-range mixture

adjustments:
131
SELECTING THE CORRECT
CARBURETOR SIZE
Air-Flow Capacities. It is important to size correctly the air-flow capacity of the conversion carburetor to the engine air-flow requirement. Specifying the correct
carburetor is vital because a carburetor too small for a given engine limits horse-power. Up to a specific RPM, normal torque is obtained. Beyond that point, as air-flow
is limited by the carburetor, torque falls off, with consequent diminishing of performance.
A carburetor excessively large for an engine may cause starting troubles. Idle will not be stable, and fuel mixture will not be consistent. As a general rule, the air-flow
capacity of the carburetor should be reasonably close to the air-flow requirement of the engine being converted. However, the type of service the engine performs is a
necessary consideration in selecting the appropriate carburetor (or mixer). Keep in mind the following:
Engines which are never operated at wide open throttle give the best performance and service with under carburetion. Services typical of this situation include lift
trucks and passenger car applications.
Engines with a degree of under carburetion are easier to start and will develop the low end torque required in these types of service.
Determining Engine Air-Flow Requirements with the Charts. The charts give engine air-flow requirements for some common displacements at various RPM’s. Find
the value (air-flow requirement) for the engine with which you are concerned at the point where nearest size and speed (CID and RPM) intersect.
Formulas for Cubic-Feet-Per-Minute (CFM) Air Flow Requirements. Determining specific air-flow requirement for any engine requires only the application of the
following formulas:
Naturally Aspirated Engines

(Carbureted)
CID x RPM / 1728 / 2 x .85 = CFM Required
The engine air-flow requirement determined by this formula is at 85% of volumetric efficiency for four-cycle engines. For two-cycle engines double the cubic feet/
minute value.
1. Determine the cubic inch displacement of the engine from the identification plate or the user’s manual. (If the displacement is known in cubic centimeters, convert to
cubic inches by multiplying cubic centimeters by .06102. If in liters, convert to cubic inches by multiplying liters by 61.02.)
2. Multiply the figure by the RPM figure corresponding to the maximum engine speed at wide open throttle. (Use the point at which the tachometer is redlined. If the
engine is not equipped with a tachometer, refer to the user’s manual supplied with the vehicle or engine).
3. Divide this CIM (cubic inches per minute) by 1728 to obtain cubic feet per minute.
4. Divide the result by 2 (for four-stroke engines).
5. Multiply the figure you obtain by .85 (for 85% volumetric efficiency).
6. This figure is the precise air-flow requirement for the engine, accurate to one cubic foot/minute.
Example:
351 CID x 4000 RPM = 1,404,000 cubic inches per minute
1,404,000 / 1728 = 812.5 CFM (2 stroke)
812.5 / 2 = 406.25 CFM (4 stroke)
406.25 / .85 = 345 CFM (at 85% volumetric efficiency)
Fuel Injected Engines
Due to the improved intake manifold design, use 100% of volumetric efficiency for fuel injected engines.
CID x RPM / 1728 / 2 = CFM Required
Example:
1,404,000 / 1728 = 812.5 CFM (2 stroke)
812.5 / 2 = 406.25 CFM (4 stroke)
406.25 = 406.25 CFM (at 100% volumetric efficiency)
Turbocharged Engines (with mixer upstream of turbocharger)
CID x RPM / 1728 / 2 x % boost pressure + 1.00 = CFM Req’d
Normal air inlet pressure to the engine is 14/7 PSI (one atmosphere). Adding turbocharger merely serves to increase the inlet pressure. For example, 6 PSI boost
equates to 14.7 plus 6 PSI, or a combined inlet pressure of 20.7 PSI (or 140% of an atmosphere) at sea level. Here is how this works starting with the above formula:
I. One atmosphere equals 14.7 PSI

II. 6 PSI Boost equals 40% of one atmosphere.
III. Thus you must multiply the normal CFM by 1.4 to establish the requirement for six pounds of boost pressure.
Example:
1,404,000 / 1728 = 812.5 CFM (2 stroke)
812.5 / 2 = 406.25 CFM (4 stroke)
406.25 x 1.4 = 568.75 CFM (at 6 PSI boost)
In selecting the correct carburetor or mixer from the listing, bear in mind whether the conversion is to be straight propane or dual fuel (propane and gasoline). All
models listed are available for straight fuel or dual fuel applications.
132
SELECTING THE CORRECT
CARBURETOR SIZE
ENGINE Engine RPM (Revolutions Per Minute)

CID 400 600 800 1000 1200 1400 1600 1800 2000 2200 2400 2600 2800 3000 3200 3400 3600 3800 4000
50 5 7 10 12 15 17 20 22 25 27 30 32 34 37 39 42 44 47 49
100 10 14 18 23 28 33 37 42 46 51 56 60 65 70 75 79 84 88 93
150 14 21 28 35 42 49 56 63 70 77 84 91 98 104 112 118 125 132 139
200 19 28 37 46 56 65 74 84 93 102 110 121 130 139 148 158 167 177 185
250 23 35 47 58 70 78 93 105 116 128 139 151 163 174 186 198 209 220 232
300 28 42 56 70 84 98 112 126 140 154 168 182 196 208 224 236 250 264 278
350 32 49 65 81 98 114 130 146 162 178 195 212 228 244 260 276 293 309 325
400 37 56 74 93 111 130 148 167 185 204 223 242 261 280 298 317 335 354 372
450 42 63 83 109 129 149 169 189 209 230 251 272 293 314 335 357 378 399 419
500 46 84 93 116 139 162 185 208 232 255 270 302 326 349 373 396 420 443 466
550 51 76 102 128 153 177 203 230 256 281 306 332 359 386 413 440 462 488 512
600 56 84 112 138 166 194 221 249 277 305 333 361 388 416 444 472 500 528 556
650 61 91 121 151 181 211 241 272 302 332 362 392 423 454 486 515 545 575
700 65 98 130 162 195 227 260 293 325 357 389 422 454 486 519 552 586
750 70 109 139 174 209 244 279 314 348 382 416 451 486 520 555 590
800 74 112 149 186 223 261 299 336 373 409 446 483 520 558 595
850 79 119 158 197 237 277 316 356 396 435 474 514 554 594
900 84 125 167 209 252 294 336 378 420 462 503 545 588
950 89 133 177 221 266 310 355 399 443 487 531 575
1000 93 139 186 233 280 327 374 420 467 513 559 605
Carb Sizing by Air-Flow
1050 97 146 195 245 294 343 392 440 490 540 590 Vehicle Engine Applications
1100 102 156 202 253 305 357 409 460 512 564 Wide Open Throttle
1150 106 164 214 268 322 375 428 481 535
1-1/2” Hg Manifold Depression
1200 111 172 223 279 335 391 447 503 Rated Cubic Cubic
Model Horsepower Feet/Minute Feet/Hour
1250 115 180 232 290 349 408 467
G-CA55 67 HP 108 CFM 6,480 CFH
1300 120 187 244 304 364 425 485
G-CA100 106 HP 170 CFM 10,200 CFH
1350 125 194 250 315 378 440 503
G-CA125 126 HP 202 CFM 12,120 CFH
1400 130 198 260 326 392 457 523
G-CA200 172 HP 276 CFM 16,560 CFH
1450 134 202 270 338 404 469 537
G-CA225 205 HP 329 CFM 19,749 CFH
1500 140 208 279 350 420 489 559
G-CA300
1550 144 216 289 362 434 506 579 (Standard) 217 HP 348 CFM 20,880 CFH
1600 149 224 299 373 448 522 596 G-CA300-50

(High Flow) 290 HP 450 CFM 27,000 CFH
1650 152 232 307 385 459 538 616
Carb Sizing by Air-Flow
1700 158 240 316 396 476 556 636
Industrial Engine Applications
1750 163 244 325 407 489 571 653 Wide Open Throttle
1800 168 250 333 419 500 586 666 2” Hg Manifold Depression
1850 172 258 345 430 517 603 690 Rated Cubic Cubic
Model Horsepower Feet/Minute Feet/Hour
1900 177 266 354 442 531 619 707
G-CA55 77 HP 124 CFM 7,080 CFH
1950 191 272 360 453 544 634 725
G-CA100 123 HP 197 CFM 11,820 CFH
2000 186 279 372 466 549 651 744
G-CA125 146 HP 235 CFM 14,100 CFH
2050 191 285 380 476 572 667 763
G-CA200 215 HP 345 CFM 20,700 CFH
2100 195 293 390 490 588 685 783
2150 200 300 400 500 600 700 800 G-CA225 237 HP 380 CFM 22,800 CFH
2200 205 306 410 510 614 718 822

Match your engine cubic inch displacement (CID) and
2250 210 313 420 525 630 735 840
engine RPM to determine your required cubic feet/
2300 215 320 430 535 643 750 858
minute (CFM), then choose the correct carb on the
2350 219 329 440 545 657 768 879
charts on the right. Engine air flow requirements listed
2400 223 334 450 559 671 780 890
on this chart are at 85% of volumetric efficiency for
2450 228 341 460 570 684 798 912
four-cycle engines. For two-cycle engines, double the
2500 232 349 466 583 698 813 928
cubic feet/minute figure shown. To convert liters to cubic
2550 238 356 473 595 711 827 943
inches, multiply by 61.02.
2600 242 362 485 605 727 848 969
133
CARBURETOR (MIXER)
SIZING AS IT RELATES TO AIR FLOW
Vehicle Engine Applications

Wide Open Throttle 1-1/2” Hg Manifold Depression
Rated Cubic Feet/ Cubic Feet/

Model Horsepower Minute Hour
50 56 HP 91 5,460
50-500 67 HP 108 6,480
100 106 HP 170 10,200
125 126 HP 202 12,120
175 130 HP 210 12,360
200 172 HP 276 16,560
225 205 HP 329 19,740
300A-1, 300A-20 217 HP 348 20,880
300A-50, 300A-70 270 HP 432 25,920
425 287 HP 460 27,600
Vehicle Engine Applications

Wide Open Throttle 1-1/2” Hg Manifold Depression
Rated Cubic Feet/ Cubic Feet/

Model Horsepower Minute Hour
50 73 HP 118 7,080
50-500 77 HP 124 7,440
100 123 HP 197 11,820
125 146 HP 235 14,100
200 215 HP 345 20,700
225 237 HP 380 22,800
200D 292 HP 468 28,080
425 333 HP 533 31,980
200T 425 HP 680 40,980
600 600 HP 960 57,800
600D 1000 HP 1600 96,000
134
FUEL SYSTEM ADJUSTMENT
Fuel System Adjustment Using an Emissions Analyzer
1. Run the engine and allow it to warm up to it’s normal operating temperature.
2. Install the emission analyzer sampling tube into the exhaust pipe.
3. Adjust engine idle RPM to the OEM specifications. To do this, turn the screw located on the throttle
stop “IN” to increase idle speed, and “OUT” to decrease idle speed.
4. Adjust the idle mixture using the emissions analyzer. Turn the idle mixture screw out slowly in
one-half turn increments, pausing after each turn to allow the analyzer to read the sample (about 30-45
seconds). Turning the screw “OUT” will lean the mixture, turning it “IN” will richen the mixture. Set the
mixture (.50%-.90% CO for propane and natural gas) by adjusting the idle mixture. You may have to
reset the idle speed as it may increase or decrease by this adjustment. If you are unable to adjust be
low he 1% CO level you may need to inspect the mixer. The body may be worn or the gas valve may
need replacing. If you are unable to richen the mixture, you may want to check for vacuum leaks or
re-inspect the mixer for body wear.
5. To adjust the power valve, accelerate to full throttle and introduce a maximum load to the engine
(depending on the equipment you are working on, this could be a hydraulic, electric or a transmission
stall). With the sample tube still in the exhaust pipe, move the power valve towards the lean setting
until you obtain .50% to 1.0% CO reading. At that point, begin turning the power valve slightly towards
the rich position.
Fuel System Adjustment Using an Air-Fuel Ratio Analyzer
1. Start the engine and allow it to warm to its normal operating temperature.
2. Install the air-fuel ratio analyzer sampling tube into the exhaust pipe.
3. Adjust the engine idle to the OEM specification. To do this, turn the screw located on the throttle stop
“IN” to increase idle speed, and “OUT” to decrease idle speed.
4. Adjust the idle mixture. Using the air/fuel ratio analyzer, turn the idle mixture screw out slowly in ½
turn increments, pausing after each turn to allow the analyzer to read the sample (about 30-45 sec-
onds). Turning the screw “OUT” will lean the mixture, turning it “IN” will richen the mixture. Set the
mixture (14.0-14.9 to 1 air/fuel ratio for propane and 15.5 to 16.5 air/fuel ratio for natural gas) by ad-
justing the idle mixture. You may have to reset the idle speed as it may increase or decrease by this ad-
justment.
5. To adjust the power valve, accelerate to full throttle and introduce a maximum load to the engine
(depending on the equipment you are working on, this could be a hydraulic, electric or a transmission
stall). With the sample tube still in the exhaust pipe, move the power valve to the maximum lean set
ting. The engine should lose power, and CO should drop. At that point, begin turning the power valve
slightly towards the rich position. Set the mixture (14.0-14.9 to 1 air/fuel ratio for propane and 15.5 to
16.5 air/fuel ratio for natural gas), and when you have reached manufacturer’s maximum load speed,
allow the engine to return to idle. Then, reintroduce the load and check the air/fuel ratio analyzer. It
should remain within the previous set specification. If you are unable to achieve this setting, check the
gas valve and mixer body for wear.
6. Once you have achieved your desired setting on the power valve, allow the engine to return to idle. You
may need to readjust the idle setting as adjusting the power valve may affect the idle settings. Refer to
steps #3 and #4 for idle setting.
If you were unable to reach any of these settings you should check the air valve to ensure proper size
and application.
135
PRELIMINARY ENGINE INSPECTION
BEFORE CONVERSION
Preliminary Inspection Check Mileage
Before any engine is converted to run on propane, it One of the first things to check is the engine’s
should be carefully inspected to determine its condition. mileage or accumulated hours of running time. On most
It does not make sense to spend a lot of time and money vehicles, the mileage can be determined by simply
installing a propane fuel system on an engine that isn’t in reading the odometer. Of the engine has been replaced or
good mechanical condition. Such an engine will not overhauled at some point in the past, find out when and
deliver satisfactory performance, and any subsequent figure only the mileage since then. On forklifts, industrial
problems or mechanical failures the engine experiences or offroad vehicles, and stationary engine, use the
will probably be unjustly blamed on the use of propane engine hour meter.
fuel.
If an engine has more than 60,000 miles on it,
A summary of the items that should be checked are chances are it may need a valve job in the near future.
listed below. Checking each and every item described Since propane can aggravate existing valve problems, it
below is not necessary on every conversion. Keep in is extremely important that the valves be in good condi-
mind, however, that checking the engine beforehand is tion. High mileage engines should therefore receive a
good insurance in preventing trouble later on. The more close inspection, including a compression check.
thorough the inspection, the less likely problems are to
appear afterwards. If the engine you’re starting with is Another factor to consider when checking engine
mechanically sound, you can be reasonably sure it will mileage is the type of use the engine has been subjected
continue to perform well regardless of the fuel used. to during its life. Light-duty highway miles are not as
hard on an engine as short trip stop-and0go miles or
heavy-duty use.
Service History
Determining the service history of a privately-owned

passenger car or light truck can be difficult especially if
the vehicle has changed owners. Fleet vehicles, on the
other hand. typically have a detailed service record that
includes dates and mileages for tune-ups, oil and filter
changes, repairs, etc. If a service history is available, a
quick scan can tell you whether the engine has been
properly maintained.
If the oil and filters have been changed at regular

intervals and the engine has no history of high oil
consumption, the bearins, rings and other wear surfaces
inside the engine should be in good shape. But if oil
changes have been haphazard or infrequent, there’s a
strong possibility that trouble may be lurking in the
crankcase.
Observe Performance
An experiences mechanic can often judge an engine’s

condition after observing how it runs and sounds for a
few minutes. Start the engine and note how it behaves.
Is it slow to start? Does it idle rough or miss? Either
problem could indicate valve trouble. Watch the oil pres-
sure and temperature gauges if the vehicle is so
equipped. A low oil pressure reading is a clue that the
main bearings are worn. A high temperature reading sig-
nals trouble in the cooling system. A buildup of mineral
deposits on the inside of the engine block and heads may
cause cooling problems if the engine is converted to pro-
pane. Check out the reason for the high temperature
reading before converting the engine.
Listen for unusual noises. A deep metallic sounding

rap that increases in intensity with engine speed is
characteristic of a bad rod bearing. Piston slap when the
engine is cold tells you there is excessive piston-to-
cylinder clearance.
136
PRELIMINARY ENGINE INSPECTION
BEFORE CONVERSION
Rev the engine several times and observe the Most engines in good condition will show compression
exhaust. Blue of black smoke may mean the engine is readings between 110 and 160 psi. If the readings are
burning oil because of worn valve guides and/or piston substantially lower, say down around 60 to 80 psi, the
rings. rings and/or valves are worn and should be repaired
prior to converting the engine to run on propane.
If your observations reveal any suspicious clues,
check them out carefully to find the cause. To determine if the rings or valves are at fault, pour
about an ounce of engine oil into the cylinder through the
Check the oil spark plug hold. Crank the engine over several times so
the oil can temporarily seal the rings, the repeat the
Pull out the dipstick and examine the condition of the compression test. If the readings are now higher the
oil. If it is muddy, frothy appearance with yellow or rings are worn. If there is little of no change, the valves
white foam present, it indicates moisture contamination. are leaking.
This can be a typical situation for engines that are
operated for short periods of time and never reach A very low compression reading in two adjacent
normal operating temperature but it can also signal cylinders is a typical symptom of a blown or leaking head
neglected oil change intervals or a coolant leak. gasket. A zero reading in a cylinder usually indicates a
bad valve.
Antifreeze contamination of the crankcase oil will
quickly ruin bearings and cylinders. If you suspect a
coolant leak, check the coolant level and pressure test the
system. A hairline crack in the engine clock or cylinder
head, or a leaky head gasket can lead to big problems if
not corrected.
Many fleets rely on periodic oil analysis to identify

trace elements in crankcase oil resulting from engine
wear, oil contamination and so on.
Read the spark plugs
The spark plugs can also provide you with many clues
about the engine’s overall condition and state of tune.
“Reading” the color and appearance of the deposits on
the firing tip of the spark plugs will tell you what’s
happening inside the combustion chamber. The spark
plugs must be removed for a compression test anyway so
this step does not require any extra effort.
If an engine is in good condition and is properly

tunes, the ceramic insulator around the electrode in the
tip of the spark plug will have light brown, tank or gray
deposits on it. Heavy black oily deposits on the electrode
insulator or plug shell are caused by oil burning (worn
valve guides, piston rings or faulty PCV valve). These are
not to be confused with fluffy black deposits which
indicate a rich air/fuel condition. If the plug tips appear
blistered, glazed or melted, it signals overheating,
detonation or preignition, any of which can cause engine
damage.
Check Compression
After removing all the spark plugs from the engine,

wedge the accelerator pedal or linkage to hold the
carburetor throttle wide open. Install a compression
gauge into one of the spark plug holes and crank the
engine until you feel four or five “puffs”. Write down the
compression reading, and then repeat the test for each of
the remaining cylinders. When you’re through, the
compression readings should not vary by more than 25
percent from the highest cylinder to the lowest.
137
MAINTENANCE SUGGESTIONS
AND CHECKS
Maintenance Suggestions dissemble the carburetor air valve from the

bowl. If consistent, remove air valve cover,
LP Gas powered vehicles maintenance schedules should spring and air valve with diaphragm. Check the
be developed to suit the needs particular to the service to gas metering valve and gas jet for accumulation
which vehicles are subjected. of foreign deposits or greasy substance and
clean both with a brush and kerosene or equiva
A. Local climatic conditions. lent fluid as needed.
B. Fuel cleanliness in the area.
C. Stop-start urban or steady state inter-city traffic. Check air valve diaphragm for integrity and
flexibility. Hold the diaphragm up against a
1. In cab-over or van installations in particular, air strong light to check for small tears or pin holes.
to the carburetor should be drawn from outside Normal life of the diaphragm and seat are five
the engine compartment to avoid excess heating years barring excessive backfiring or similar
of intake air with consequent power loss of 1% abnormality.
per 10 deg. temperature rise over ambient air
temperatures. The cooler aire will also insure a 4. With the carburetor air-gas valve and cover
measure of protection against detonation and removed, it is a simple matter to check the con
allow the use of optimum spark advance curves verter and fuelock for leaks.
for best fuel conservation.
A. Turn the fuel on at the tank and check
2. In extreme cold conditions after starting the carburetor open gas jet for leakage. If
engine, it should be run at a fast idle for a period fuelock and converter are operating
of time sufficient to raise engine coolant temp- properly, no fuel will leak through.
erature to a slight warmth of 50-60 deg. A slow
cold idle may injure the engine due to insuffi- B. Press primer button on front cover of
cient oil circulation. Starting the engine in ex- converter to open gas regulator valve.
treme cold to move a vehicle a short distance, A small amount of gas should pass
and stopping the engine without warming the through the jet as the system is emp
coolant can result in trapping liquid propane in tied back into the fuelock. If the fue
the heat exchanger. As this liquid vaporizes with lock is operating properly the gas
the engine stopped, pressure in the heat flow will cease as soon as the fuel
exchanger will rise until excessive force is ap down steam of the fuelock is ex
plied to closing the primary regulator valve hausted.
against it’s seat. If this occurs frequently, the
primary valve in the regulator may be damaged. C. Next remove the vacuum hose to the
fuelock from the fitting a the source of
3. Carburetion equipment in use deteriorates very vacuum. With the primer button
slowly, with Viton rubber seats and diaphragm depressed, suck slightly on the fuelock
frequently lasting five years. However, equip vacuum hose. Fuel should flow immedi
ment removed from a vehicle and stored for any ately and stop flowing when
length of time must have repair kits installed, suction is relieved.
as diaphragms and gaskets tend to dry, shrink
and harden as the light petroleum ends evapo These checks should indicate each
rate and the coolant dries out of the gaskets. component is operating properly.
5. With consistent starting and idling, the vapor
Maintenance Checks izer/regulator need not be disassembled. If
inconsistent, remove regulator front cover and
At scheduled preventative maintenance increments: diaphragm assembly to check for oil and
dirt deposits. If granules of foreign matter are
1. Check coolant hoses for deterioration. Hardened embedded in the Viton rubber of the secondary
hoses may crack or be subject to rupture, par- valve, the valve and seat may be washed clean,
ticularly if thermostats hotter than 160-170 deg. however, it may be wise to replace the Viton
are used, or if hoses are located adjacent to ex valve for a perfect seal. These granules almost
haust manifold. Also check all vacuum hoses. invariably enter the regulator in solution in the
liquid propane and drop out as the fuel is vapor
2. If a fuel vapor is used between vaporizer/ ized similar to salt water through a filter, with
regulator and carburetor, remove the hose and deposits of salt left after evaporation of the
check for undue deterioration. Particularly check water. It is seldom a sign on insufficient
the vapor outlet fitting from the regulator for filtration. Foreign matter and scale from the
tightness. A zinc fitting will almost invariably be tank generally deposit in the filter when a new
loose. tank is installed. Welding scale and rust are
frequently present in new tanks, and occasion
3. If starting and idling have been consistently ally residual water from the hydrostatic pres
satisfactory, it should be unnecessary to sure testing is still in the tank. A quart of alco
hol injected into the tank with the propane fuel
will allow it to pass through the carburetion
system without freezing.
138
ENGINE STARTING PROBLEMS
Starting has never been a serious problem when dealing decreasing air flow at idle. This allows the idle screw to
with straight alternate fuel engines. However, with dual be adjusted in to richen the mixture, shutting off most of
fuel applications, especially those under 250 CID, there the bypass air and lifting the air valve farther off the seat
are many factors that can contribute to hard starting. during cranking.
These are:
Setting the idle on a CA300A mixer is touchy on a small
1. Vacuum and air leaks. engine because of the large gas valve. With the gas inlet
2. Incorrect carburetor sizing. elbow removed, screw the idle adjustment “IN” until the
3. Improper idle mixture.
rubber valve contacts the seat and stops turning. Back
4. Incorrect location of carburetor, regulator, and/or fuelock.
5. Improper location of electric fuelock lead. the adjustment out ¾ turn, reinstall the elbow. Advance
6. Poor engine condition. the idle speed adjustment screw a turn or so to keep the
7. Incorrect spark plug gap. engine running, then start engine. The idle should be set
8. Cold ambient air temperatures. cold or cool. Adjust the valve in and out gently to deter-
9. Idle air controller. mine where the engine speeds up (best vacuum). For
final setting, slow idle speed to desired setting. When
Vacuum and Air Leaks testing between adjustments, place finger over the
In dual fuel applications on small displacement engines, opening to the idle mixture screw to prevent air entry.
an air leak which would not bother a larger engine be- Install idle adjustment plug after desired idle is obtained.
comes critical, especially at cranking speed. Any leak
downstream of the air/gas valve will reduce the amount Location of Components
it will rise off its seat during cranking. Mounting the converter and fuelock off the engine is de-
sirable when carbureting 4-cylinder engines. The vibra-
In extreme conditions, air enters through the leak during tion of the engine moves the converter rapidly back and
the entire intake stroke, while the gas valve is lifted only forth while the secondary diaphragm tends to stay still.
during part of the stroke. This creates a mixture too lean This causes the gas pressure to pulse, and can cause
to burn. A primer may furnish the added fuel around the excessive fuel consumption.
metering valve to allow the engine to start, and with
more numerous intake cycles the leak may be overcome. The added weight of an LP-gas mixer and adapter on a
gasoline carburetor, if not properly braced, can combine
Vacuum leaks may be detected by spraying gasket sealed with the vibration of a 4-cylinder engine to cause the
surfaces with a soapy solution. If a leak is located, the gasoline carburetor bolts and screws, etc., to loosen,
engine will speed up, due to the richer mixture. This tech- causing air leaks.
nique is quite effective around the gasoline carburetor
area. Keep the atmospheric vent of the regulator out of the
direct stream of the engine fan. This can also cause fluc-
Air leaks may also be found in the engine, through intake tuation of the secondary diaphragm and result in gas
valve seals or past rings which are not seated. The orifice pressure pulsations.
in the PCV valve, which is open during cranking and
closed under vacuum, can add a sizeable amount of air. Electric Fuelock Connection
Be sure the PCV valve does close properly after the en- The electric fuelock connection is often a source of start-
gine starts. ing trouble. Attaching the electric fuelock power lead to
an ignition coil terminal is aweak source of current and it
Incorrect Carburetor Sizing robs the ignition of need amperage.
Use of a mixer that is too large for the engine displace-
ment make idle adjustment extremely sensitive. When Engine Condition
larger mixers are applied to smaller engines, enrichment As previously mentioned, the engine itself can be a
for acceleration occurs too high in the RPM range to be source of air leaks. Leaking intake seals, poorly seated
practical. The small engine cannot lift the large air valve rings, and leakage through the PCV valve hose are prob-
quickly or as high as a larger engine will. lem, however, the engine must be in good working order.
Check the engine for any leaks downstream of the air
Improper Idle Mixture valve. Compression pressure of 150 psi or better at
Correct idle mixture adjustment is critical to ease of start- cranking is desirable to prevent hard starting.
ing. This is compounded if the mixer is oversize for the
engine. When the idle mixture (air bypass) adjustment is Incorrect Spark Plug Gap
closed, the sir valve will open farther at cranking, thus Spark plugs should be in good condition and gapped
the air flow volume remains the same, but gas is in- to .030” to .032”. A protruded nose plug is helpful if it
creased. will clear the piston at the top of its stroke.
If the engine starts hard, check the idle mixture adjust- Ambient Temperature
ment following this procedure. Tighten the idle mixture At very cold ambient temperatures (-30ºF., -34ºC. or
screw “IN:. If the engine starts more easily, slow the en- below), there may be insufficient vapor pressure in the
gine down while adjusting the idle mixture to prevent fuel tank to supply fuel to the converter/regulator, re-
stalling from an over rich mixture. Setting the idle mix- sulting in no start of hard starting. Another condition
ture to the best idel (high vacuum) cold will give a rea- which may prevent starting in cold weather involves over
sonably lean but satisfactory mixture after the engine priming. If this condition is suspected, attempt to start
warms. the engine with the primer disconnected by removing the
electrical connector or by pinching the fuel hose.
If the idle adjustment must be backed out excessively in
order to obtain a smooth idle, this may be compensated Idle Air Controller
for by installing a spacer ring on the air valve. Placed The idle air controller installed upstream of the air valve
between the air valve ring and the air valve shoulder it mixer could cause a leak down stream of the mixer.
raises the air valve ring by about .004”, thereby
139
IGNITION MODIFICATIONS
FOR LP-GAS
Preliminary Inspection 2. Ignition Coil

The ignition system plays a key role in determining en- The ignition coil should be visually inspected for cracks or
gine performance regardless of the type of fuel used. It signs of carbon arcing around the high voltage tower and
must provide sufficient firing voltage at precisely the primary terminals. Coil output should be checked on the
right instant to ignite the air/fuel mixture in the cylin- oscilloscope or with a spark tester as described above. If
ders. Any weakness in the system that reduces the avail- a weak coil is suspected, check the primary and secon-
able firing voltage can cause hard starting and misfiring dary coil resistance with an ohm meter. If it is not within
as well as reduced fuel economy and performance. specs, replace the coil.
Since propane is a “dry” fuel and because it runs with a 3. Distributor Cap and Rotor
leaner air/fuel ratio than gasoline, it takes more voltage The distributor cap and rotor should be removed and
to fire the spark plugs. A lean air/fuel mixture does not closely inspected for signs of wear, corrosion, cracking,
conduct electricity as well as a rich one so more voltage is or carbon tracking. If any problems are found, a new
needed to “push” the park across the plug gap. Generally premium quality cap and/or rotor should be installed.
speaking, the plugs need a reliable 28,000 to 32,000 volts
to fire consistently with the propane. If sufficient voltage On older point-type ignition systems, substituting a
is not available, misfiring will result. distributor cap made from high-dielectric strength plastic
for the original bakelite cap is recommended, especially if
Today’s electronic ignition system can produce more than any modifications are made such as installing a high out-
enough voltage as can older point-type ignition systems. put ignition coil or capacitive discharge ignition control.
But for peak voltage output to be achieved, all the compo-
nents in the ignition system must be in top condition. The 4. Spark Plug Wires
ignition coil, distributor cap, rotor, plug wires and spark The plug wires should be visually inspected for cracks,
plugs, must all be up to specs as should the primary volt- broken insulation or burns. The terminals should fit
age in the ignition circuit that fires the coil. A one volt snugly into the distributor cap, and the boots should fit
drop in the primary voltage, for example, can result in a tightly around the spark plugs to keep out dirt, oil and
5,000 volt drop in coil output. moisture. Check each plug wire’s resistance from end to
end with an ohm meter. If resistance exceeds factory
A faulty ballast resistor, resistance wire, ignition coil or specifications, a new set of premium quality wires should
excessive resistance in the plug wires can reduce the be installed.
available firing voltage to the point where misfiring be-
comes a problem. Arcing around the coil high voltage The 8mm silicone resistance wiring found on most late
tower, between the terminals inside the distributor cap, model high voltage ignition systems will provide good
between the rotor and distributor housing or shaft, or service with propane. It requires no upgrading. Solid core
from a plug wire to ground can also cause misfiring. Rout- wiring offers no performance advantage over resistance
ing adjacent plug wires to close together or parallel to wiring, and substituting solid core for resistance wiring
one another can induce cross-firing and backfiring. will create radio interference and may affect the opera-
tion of certain electronic components in some vehicles.
It is very important, therefore, to make sure the ignition On the older point-type ignition systems, upgrading to
system is in good working condition before converting the silicone wiring and boots is recommended though not
engine to run on propane. Any weakness or problems necessary.
should be corrected beforehand since propane will in-
crease the demands on the system. 5. Spark Plugs
The spark plugs should be removed and inspected. If the
A preliminary inspection of the ignition system should center electrodes are worn so that the tips appear round
include the following: instead of flat, the spark plugs should be replaced. If the
center electrodes are not worn much, the spark plugs can
1. Firing Voltage and Pattern be cleaned and re-gapped. Spark plugs should be in good
Observing ignition performance on an oscilloscope is the condition and gapped to .030” to .032”.
best way to detect ignition faults. The scope will identify
common problems such as inadequate firing voltage, ex- Spark plugs are not an expensive item, and considering
cessive point resistance, fouled spark plugs, bad plug the fact that new plugs require less firing voltage than
wires etc. used plugs installing a new set of spark plugs is recom-
mended for every propane conversion. The use of ex-
If an oscilloscope is not available, firing voltage can be tended tip plugs can also enhance performance slightly
checked with an old spark plug. Remove the outer elec- because the firing tip is positioned further into the com-
trode from the firing tip. This creates a ¼” gap across bustion chamber. Extended tip plugs are readily available
which spark must jump. To test the ignition system, re- for most engines and cost no more than
move a plug wire from one of the spark plugs and attach standard plugs.
it to a modified spark plug. Then, ground the shell of the
plug against the engine and have a helper attempt to Ignition Timing and Advance
start the engine. If the spark jumps across the ¼” gas on
the end of your modified spark plug, the ignition system Ignition timing is another item that deserves close atten-
has sufficient firing voltage. If no spark is observed, the tion because many if the so-called problems that suppos-
ignition system should be carefully inspected to diagnose edly result from using propane are in fact due to incor-
the cause of the weak spark condition. rect timing. The most serious problem is detonation
which results from too much total spark advance.
140
IGNITION MODIFICATION
FOR LP-GAS
Detonation If an adjustable timing light or mag timer are not avail-

During normal combustion the flame front inside the able, an ordinary timing light can be used if additional
combustion chamber expands outward from the point of timing marks are made on the crankshaft pulley, har-
ignition like a balloon. Pressure increases quickly inside monic balancer or flywheel. Measure the spacing be-
the combustion chamber and forces the piston down. tween the TDC or 0 and 10 degree timing marks. Then
Detonation can occur when there’s too much spark ad- mark off additional 10 degree increments on the
vance. Igniting the fuel too far ahead to top dead center crank pulley, balancer, or flywheel in the opposite direc-
starts the fuel burning while it is still being compressed. tion from which the timing mark advances. When the
Pressure builds up too rapidly inside the combustion engine is revved up to maximum cruising RPM, the origi-
chamber causing some of the remaining portions of nal timing mark will probably be advanced out of range,
unburned fuel to ignite spontaneously. When multiple but one of the new marks will line up so total timing can
flame fronts collide, they generate sharp pressure waves be determined. For example, if the new 30 degree mark
which can be heard as knocking or pinging noises outside lines up with the 2 degree mark on the timing indicator,
the engine, and are extremely hard on pistons, rings and total advance is 30 degree plus 2 degree, or 32 degree.
rod bearings. Over time, severe detonation will ruin the
engine. That’s why detonation must be guarded against Modifying the Advance Curve
by carefully controlling igniton advance. For distributors with mechanical centrifugal advance
mechanisms, the total amount of advance the distributor
Timing Advance provides can be altered by installing a limiter plate or
Ignition timing advances with increasing engine speed different sized advance control bushing. The limiter plate
because more time is needed for the fuel to burn. The rate or bushing reduces the amount of flywheel travel thus
at which the timing advances is determined by the cen- limiting the amount of advance.
trifugal advance mechanism inside the distributor. On
many late model passenger cars advance is now con- Changing the weights and springs will alter the rate at
trolled electronically by the engine computer. which timing changes. Heavier flyweights and/or weaker
springs will allow the timing to advance more quickly. A
Propane runs with a leaner air/fuel ratio than gasoline so faster advance curve can enhance performance and low
it needs more advance to burn completely. At the same speed torque on light- duty engines but may cause deto-
time, however the total amount of advance provided by nation problems on heavy-duty applications. Changing
the distributor centrifugal advance mechanism must be the advance curve typically requires some experimenta-
limited to compensate for the increased initial timing tion to find the right combination that works best.
change. This is where inexperienced mechanics can get
into trouble. On engines with electronic timing and no centrifugal
advance mechanism in the distributor, modifying the
If the mechanic fails to check total timing advance, he has advance curve and/or total advance requires changing
no way of knowing how much advance the engine has at the computer PROM or installing a “black box” unit that
higher RPM’s. If he has changed the initial timing adjust- alters timing electronically.
ment without reducing the amount of centrifugal advance
added by the distributor, the engine will have too much Dual-Fuel Applications
total advance at high speed and will likely suffer detona- In a straight propane fuel conversion, the ignition system
tion problems. should always be tailored for optimum performance on
propane, but in dual-fuel conversions, the optimum tim-
As a rule of thumb, total spark advance for propane ing curve for propane creates too much advance if gaso-
should not exceed 27 to 30 degrees in heavy-duty en- line is used. Such an engine would likely experience deto-
gines. This is about 10 to 20 percent less than that for nation problems with gasoline unless the ignition curve is
gasoline. changed.
Checking Total Advance If the timing is adjusted to a “compromise” setting

Total ignition advance equals the initial timing adjust- somewhere between the optimum settings for propane
ment plus the centrifugal advance added by the distribu- andgasoline, the engine will not perform as well as it
tor. could on either fuel. A compromise setting would still be
over-advanced for gasoline and under-advanced
Distributor advance specs are generally available in shop (retarded) for propane.
repair manuals but in some instances the specs don’t al-
ways match the distributor. The exact number of degrees One solution to this dilemma is to adjust the engine to
of advance added by the distributor can be measured by whichever fuel is to be used the majority of the time. This
pulling the distributor and putting it on a distributor ma- approach gives good performance on the primary fuel,
chine, or by using a timing meter or timing light. but less than desirable performance on the backup fuel.
If an adjustable timing light or magnetic timing meter is The best solution is to install one of the “black box”
available, checking total advance is fairly simple. Discon- unites that electronically tailors the ignition curve to the
nect the vacuum advance hose from the distributor and fuel being used. Such units automatically advance the
plug it. Start the engine and check the basic timing at the timing for propane and retard it for gasoline.
specified idle speed. Then increase engine speed to maxi-
mum cruise RPM and read the total degrees of advance on
the meter or timing light.
141
IGNITION MODIFICATIONS
FOR LP-GAS
Vacuum Advance
The vacuum advance diaphragm should be retained on
light-duty vehicles because additional spark advance un-
der light load and part throttle conditions help improve
fuel economy and reduce exhaust temperatures. If timing
as not advanced during such operating conditions, the
air/fuel mixture can still be burning when it exits the
combustion chamber. This causes exhaust temperatures
to soar and the exhaust valves to turn excessively hot.
The result can be preignition and premature exhaust
valve failure.
Total timing advance with the vacuum diaphragm con-

nected should not exceed 40 degrees with propane. Going
beyond 40 degrees does not improve mileage and greatly
increases the risk of detonation. Check the vacuum ad-
vance by connecting a hand-held vacuum pump to the
diaphragm. Read the degrees of timing advance when
maximum vacuum is applied with engine running.
Compensating for Altitude

Another factor to consider when making timing modifica-
tions is altitude. At higher elevations, the air is thinner
so the resulting air/fuel mixture is less dense. To com-
pensate, an additional 4 degrees of timing advance can be
added for every 5,000 ft. of increased altitude.
For vehicles that must operate over a range of elevations,

such as a delivery truck that starts out in a valley, but
must climb mountain roads, some experimentation will be
necessary to find a timing setting that provides sufficient
power at higher elevations yet does not detonate at lower
altitudes.
142
MODEL J REPAIR KIT
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
1 RK-J kit contains all necessary parts to replace

components subject to deterioration. Installation
of complete kit should be necessary only at time
of major overhaul or when converter has been
out of service for some time. Gaskets and dia-
phragms deteriorate if converter is stored after
being used.
2 Start disassembly by removing secondary cover

assembly (G-AC1-34). Take out six G-S1-59
screws to loosen cover.
3 Break cover loose by tapping with plastic screw-

driver handle.
4 Remove secondary diaphragm assembly (G-A1-

26). Diaphragm assembly must be moved to-
ward LP-gas inlet to disengage diaphragm link
from the lever assembly.
143
MODEL J REPAIR KIT
5 Straight-on view showing lever still engaged in

link slot. Move diaphragm ahead to clear slot.
6 Cover and diaphragm assembly removed.
7 Remove G-S1-42 screw to disassemble secon-

dary lever from converter body.
8 Secondary lever assembly and spring (G-S2-35).

Note locating tabs for spring at each side of
lever. These, plus tab punched through top of
lever, position spring correctly and prevent it
from slipping out from under the lever.
144
MODEL J REPAIR KIT
9 Remove primary regulator cover (G-C1-33).

Take out seven G-S1-10 screws to loosen cover.
10 Cover and primary diaphragm assembly (G-AD1-

22) removed. Note triangular lever riveted to
diaphragm. This lever is supported on the upper
side by a fulcrum cast in the cover. The lever
rocks over the fulcrum to depress primary valve
pin and spring. Pen points to sensing port for
pressure regulation.
11 Primary valve pin (G-P1-14) and primary regula-

tor spring (G-S2-36). Primary valve is operated
by this pin moving through a boss in the con-
verter body cover plate (G-P2-26). This isolates
the diaphragm from contact with liquid propane
and prevents diaphragm stiffening due to refrig-
eration.
12 Removal of cover plate and gasket (G-G1-85)

shows serrated vaporizing chamber in body and
heat exchange labyrinth which heats vaporized
fuel.
145
MODEL J REPAIR KIT
13 Remove gasket (G-G1-85) from converter body

cover plate.
14 Pen points to aluminum alloy backing of primary

regulator valve (G-S4-16) in place in vaporizing
chamber.
15 Viton seat is bonded to aluminum allow backing

of primary regulator valve.
16 With gasket (G-G1-85) in place and converter

body cover plate (G-P2-26) positioned, insert
primary valve pin (G-P1-14) in place through the
primary regulator spring (G-S2-36).
146
MODEL J REPAIR KIT
17 Showing diaphragm assembly (G-AD1-22), pri-

mary regulator cover (G-C1-33), and screws (G-
S1-10). Diaphragm lever lifted to show fulcrum
cast in cover over which lever rocks to operate
primary valve pin.
18 With primary regulator cover, diaphragm assem-

bly and converter body cover plate in place, turn
seven (G-S1-10) screw in until they touch the
cover. Then tighten screws from one side to the
other until all screws are solidly tightened.
Note that primary regulator cover has cast-in

lettering indicating LPG inlet, water inlet and
outlet and the primary pressure check plug.
Small orifice below lower lettering is atmospheric
vent to primary diaphragm.
19 Oil seat lightly and turn new seat by hand. Do

not use pliers, you could tear the nipple off the
seat.
20 Secondary blue spring (G-S2-35) in place on

body. Secondary regulator lever assembly ready
for replacement, attaches with G-S1-42 screw.
An alternate orange spring (G-S2-38) Is installed
when converter is also available for certain appli-
cations.
147
MODEL J REPAIR KIT
21 Shows how secondary spring is located and held

in place by tabs on underside of regulator lever.
22 Hold lever assembly with fulcrum pin in place in

its locating groove, fasten in place by replacing
G-S1-42 screw.
23 Tighten G-S1-42 screw solidly to retain lever

assembly. Secondary lever should be 1/32” be-
low level of casting. Use a straight edge or G2-2
gauge.
24 Secondary diaphragm assembly ready for reas-

sembly. Place diaphragm link slot over end of
lever. Note, gap from which link is punched
should be located toward the LP-gas inlet. Refer
to pictures (4), (5) and (6) for proper place-
ment.
148
MODEL J REPAIR KIT
25 With diaphragm assembly in place, replace sec-

ondary cover assembly using six G-S1-59
screws.
26 First, tighten screws in until they touch cover.

Then tighten solidly, alternating from side to side
until all screws are solidly seated.
Use only brass or plastic fittings in the water inlet and

outlet passages. Steel fittings will cause the casting to
deteriorate due to electrolysis.
149
MODEL VFF30 REPAIR KIT
INSTALLATION SAFETY PRECAUTIONS:
1. Do NOT use Teflon thread tape on any of the NPT pipe-thread fittings where fuel travels. Use a
suitable fuel-resistant joint compound.
2. Be sure to leak-check all fittings and covers for fuel tanks, using a soapy solution.
3. Be sure to use proper mounting bolts to secure the lockoff. Bolts which are too long may cause
severe damage to the lockoff.
1 Kit includes: Gasket, Filter, Screen, Diaphragm

Assy., Screws 8-32 x 5/8” (2), Screws 12-24 x
5/8” (2), Seal (Viton, bonded to aluminum), Lip
Seal, Valve operating pin, Retaining washer, In-
structions, Seal holder (tool) and Installation pin
(tool).
2 Remove 10 screws from cover which has the

words “Fuel In” cast into it.
3 Remove the cover and the gasket.
150
4 Remove the filter and screen.
5 Remove screw holding valve screen in place.
6 Remove valve spring.
7 Remove valve seat.
151
8 Remove valve operating pin.
9 Using a bent paper clip or wire, fashion a hook

as shown.
10 Cutaway shows the relationship of the valve

spring, valve seat, valve operating pin, seal re-
taining washer and o-ring. Note that removal of
valve pin allows retaining washer to be removed
through the “Fuel Out” (1/4” NPT) opening.
11 Insert wire hook through “Fuel Out” threaded

port to hook the retaining washer, then...
152
12 ...pull the retaining washer out of the body

through the jet hole.
13 Using the same hook/wire, pull the o-ring seal

through the hole in the body from which you
removed the valve operating pin in step 7. Wash
body, cover and jet area as needed, using kero-
sene or equivalent petroleum solvent. Do NOT
use carburetor cleaner, as it will attack synthetic
rubber seals.
14 Seal holder should be placed as shown in photo

(bottom tool). Note that the hole in the seal
holder, which accepts the O-ring lip seal, is ta-
pered, and that the wider end of the opening
faces up. The replacement seal must be coated
with silicone grease prior to inserting into holder.
Place the greased O-ring seal into the holder,

using the installation pin (upper tool). Re-coat
the seal with silicone grease.
The seal must be in the position shown in the

photo groove facing up, and visible. Seal is ta-
pered to match the hole in the seal holder.
15 Place the body with the filter side up, as shown.
153
16 With the O-ring lip seal in the holder, groove

visible and facing up, slide the holder into the
body. Look through the Fuel In port to check
positioning of the seal, above the cavity of the
seal recess (see cutaway, step 10).
17 Coat the installation pin with silicone grease and

push the seal through the holder and into the
seat recess of the body. Remove installation pin
and check for proper installation by looking into
the Fuel In port. O-ring seal should be seated in
the seal recess and groove should be visible.
18 Use needle nose pliers to insert seal retainer

washer through the Fuel In threaded port. Again,
refer to cutaway drawing, step 10.
19 Lubricate valve operating pin with silicone

grease and insert in body as shown, so that pin
passes through retainer washer and o-ring lip
seal. Rotate pin slowly to ease passage through
washer and o-ring.
154
20 Place valve seat on top of head of operating pin,

with aluminum side facing up and dark, Viton
side against head of pin.
21 Add valve spring and secure with screw.
22 Lift valve spring slightly to confirm its freedom of

movement.
23 Insert screen and filter.
155
24 Place gasket on body and align with screw holes.
25 Add filter cover and secure with screws. Alter-

nate side to side when tightening screws.
26 Cover and diaphragm are removed. Clean parts

as necessary, using only kerosene or equivalent
petroleum solvent. Do NOT use carburetor
cleaner.
27 Check valve operating lever for freedom of

movement. Use silicone grease to coat the sur-
face of the gasket which will contact the body.
Note: gasket will only align with holes when in-
stalled correctly. Rivet heads in diaphragm plate
should be on the cover side, not the body side.
156
28 Add diaphragm to body, then...
29 ...add cover and secure with screws, alternating

sides as you tighten screws.
157
MODEL E REPAIR KIT
1 Under normal conditions, installation of a com-

plete RK-E kit should be necessary only at time
of major engine overhaul or when converter has
been out of service for some time. Gaskets and
diaphragms will deteriorate if converter is stored
after being used.
2 First step is to disassemble the converter/

regulator. Remove diaphragm cover (G-AC1-22-
1) by taking out the eight screws around the
circumference.
3 Next, remove the secondary diaphragm assem-

bly (G-AD1-14-1). This requires the assembly be
moved about one inch from the gas outlet to
disengage the two prongs of the diaphragm link
from the lever.
4 Diaphragm and cover removed showing secon-

dary lever with valve and spring.
158
MODEL E REPAIR KIT
5 Loosen screw which retains fulcrum pin.
6 Extract screw in preparation for removal of ful-

crum pin.
7 Slide out fulcrum pin (G-P1-7). Remove com-

pletely from assembly. Removal of secondary
fulcrum pin releases spring and lever assembly.
8 Remove primary diaphragm cover (G-C1-20).

Requires removal of four fillister head screws
and two pan head screws.
159
MODEL E REPAIR KIT
9 Removal of last pan head screw.
10 G-C1-20 cover removal releases two G-S2-13

primary springs and the primary diaphragm as-
sembly.
Remove primary diaphragm assembly (G-AD1-

15). Pen tip points out primary valve pin (G-P1-
11). Primary valve is actuated by this pin
through the body. This isolates the diaphragm
from any contact with liquid propane.
11 Remove the last two G-S1-39 screws.
12 Loosen and remove body (G-B1-20) from heat

exchanger (G-AB1-19).
160
MODEL E REPAIR KIT
13 G-B1-20 body removed with body gasket (G-G1-

37) peeled back to show location. Sponge (G-F3-
1) and primary valve (G-S4-7) shown in place in
heat exchanger. Sponge absorbs liquid propane
on cold starts, retains the liquid until it vapor-
izes.
14 Primary valve seat (G-S4-7). High pressure jet is

case-hardened steel, pressed in place. Old seat
should be discarded.
15 Heat exchanger body (G-AB1-19). Pen points to

one of two outlet ports from serrated vaporizing
chamber. Fuel exits in these ports as a cold
gas—approximately 40 degrees below zero. At
rated flow, gas is warmed to 40 degrees above
zero in the labyrinth.
16 Removal of back cover (G-C1-21). Requires re-

moval of six G-S1-3 back cover screws.
161
MODEL E REPAIR KIT
17 Tap side of cover firmly with plastic handle to

break cover loose from gasket.
18 Back cover gasket (G-G1-35). Ribs on underside

of cover support the back gasket while providing
air gaps for expansion in case of a water freeze
up.
19 G-G1-35 gasket removed to show accumulation

of deposits from the use of hard water. This con-
dition can be alleviated through use of radiator
additives or permanent anti-freezes. Remove
accumulation with wire brush before assembly.
Steel water inlet and outlet fittings may cause
erosion from electrolysis. Use brass or plastic
water fittings only.
20 G-RK-E kit contains all necessary parts to re-

place components subject to deterioration.
162
MODEL E REPAIR KIT
21 Reassembly of back cover (G-C1-21) and gasket

(G-G1-35) to heat exchanger body (G-AB1-19).
Replace six G-S1-3 screws. Match mounting
bosses in cover with those on heat exchanger.
Tighten two screws indicated first, then upper
and lower screws diagonally opposite to draw
down evenly all around.
22 Pen indicates recess cast in body to contain

sponge (G-F3-1). Recess is approximately
.040-inch deep, so sponge must be located ac-
curately.
23 Sponge in place, primary seat (G-S4-7) ready to

install.
24 Replacement of body (G-B1-20) and body gasket

(G-G1-37). Mount body gasket on primary pin
boss and two locating pins on underside of body.
Use two G-S1-39 screws to locate body on heat
exchanger body (G-AB1-19). Tighten screws to
hold units in place.
163
MODEL E REPAIR KIT
25 Replace primary valve pin (G-P1-11).
26 Primary diaphragm assembly (G-AD1-15) ready

to be put in place.
27 Install primary diaphragm assembly over locat-

ing pins and screw bosses. This gives proper
alignment for assembly of springs and cover.
28 Place two primary valve springs (G-S2-13) upon

locating perches extruded from the back-up
plate on the primary valve diaphragm assembly
(G-AD1-15).
164
MODEL E REPAIR KIT
29 Press primary cover (G-C1-20) in place over the

primary valve springs and diaphragm assembly.
Insert G-S1-40 screws. Protruding cups in cover
house the primary springs.
30 Replace all screws with the exception of the one

shown omitted in the illustration.
31 Tighten primary cover screws. Tighten six G-S1-

39 screws until they just contact body. Then,
tighten screws solidly first on one side then di-
agonally across the body on the opposite side
until all screws are firmly tightened.
32 Remove old secondary seat (G-S4-6) from lever

(G-AL1-13). With diagonal pliers or equivalent,
straighten secondary seat pin (G-P1-9) and re-
move seat from lever.
165
MODEL E REPAIR KIT
33 Press new secondary seat (G-S4-25) into open-

ing left by removal of lever perch. Be certain
that secondary seat snap locks into place.
34 Completed secondary valve and lever assembly.

Clip top of the seat stem off 1/8”, to prevent
contact with secondary diaphragm.
35 Replace secondary lever. Insert fulcrum pin

(G-P1-7).
36 Replace final G-S1-39 screw.
166
MODEL E REPAIR KIT
37 Tighten screw.
38 Use straight edge or G-G2-2 gauge to check

lever height. Secondary lever link pin should be
approximately 1/32-inch below the level of the
body casting.
Note: On the G-PE converter (pressure model)

the setting should be 3/32-inch below straight
edge.
39 Replace secondary spring (G-S2-22). Slip spring

under secondary lever making sure it is retained
by the two tabs at the sides and the single tab
punched through top of the lever. If a new
spring is installed, a blue spring (G-S2-22_ is
used with any carburetor or adaption with the
exception of the CA300A mixer. The CA300A or
another make of venture carburetor requires use
of orange spring G-S2-23. The orange spring
may be used with a carburetor when the G-EC-1
device is installed.
40 Slotted diaphragm link shown in position to en-

gage link pin.
Link and link pin in proper relationship.
167
MODEL E REPAIR KIT
41 Replace cover (G-AC1-22-1). Turn eight G-S1-2

screws until all contact cover. Then, tighten from
side to side until all are firmly seated.
42 Completed converter. Check under pressure with

soap suds or testing solution to detect possible
leaks. If an elbow is used in the gas outlet, it
must be a full-flow fitting such as 1” pipe or G-
F4-1, shown here.
Use only brass or plastic fittings in the water inlet and

outlet passages. Steel fittings will cause the casting to
deteriorate due to
electrolysis.
168
MODEL 50 SERIES REPAIR KIT
1 With carburetor removed from engine, remove 4

screws (G-S1-3) holding throttle body to mixer
bowl.
2 With throttle body removed, note that gasket

retains idle cutoff piston in place (under finger
tip).
3 Remove gasket. Idle cutoff piston and spring are

released. Do not lose either one.
4 Remove check valve plate and air valve spring.

Lift air/gas valve from mixer bowl.
169
5 Clean mixer bowl assembly in kerosene or

equivalent petroleum solvent. Do not use carbu-
retor cleaner as it will attack synthetic rubber
seals.
6 G-RKCA50/55 KIT INCLUDES:

1 G-AV1-18 Air-Gas Valve Assy.
1 G-R1-23 Ring, Sealing
1 G-AP2-32 Plate, Check Valve
1 G-G1-92 Gasket, TB to Mixer
4 G-S1-3 Screw, 10-24 x 5/8”
1 G-P4-1 Piston, Idle cutoff
1 G-S2-44 Spring, Idle cutoff
1 G-PPI-6 Instruction
7 Install sealing ring in piston groove. Install one

end in groove and coax the ring in spirally to
avoid breaking or creasing the ring.
8 Replace air/gas valve assembly in mixer bowl.

Tilt valve slightly to insert one end of the split
sealing ring into the cylinder of the bowl. Then,
using pencil lead or similar point, slide around
circumference of sealing ring pressing it in until
ring and assembly drop into the bowl.
NOTE: When installing the air/gas valve assem-

bly it is recommended that a lubricant such as
WD-40 be sprayed onto the mixer body well.
This eliminates the possibility of the air/gas
valve assembly sticking to the body.
170
9 Replace air/valve spring and check valve plate in

the mixer bowl.
10 Shows mixer bowl assembled with check valve

assembly centered towards air horn. The idle
cutoff piston and spring are shown in place
ready for assembly to the mixer bowl.
11 Gasket in place retaining idle cutoff piston in its

recess (under thumb).
12 Invert throttle body, holding gasket and idle cut-

off piston in place. Note cutout of gasket to clear
check valve assembly on plate.
171
13 Lower throttle body gently onto mixer bowl mak-

ing sure idle cutoff piston does not escape from
its recess. With throttle body flush on the mixer
bowl, align the holes and start the 4 screws.
NOTE: When installing the air/gas valve assem-

bly it is recommended that a lubricant such WD-
40 be sprayed onto the mixer body well. This
eliminates the possibility of the air/gas valve
assembly sticking to the body.
14 Tighten 4 screws.
15 With assembly completed, reach a thumb into

the carburetor air horn and lift air valve several
times to check free movement. Air valve should
lift easily and return slowly due to action of
check valve.
172
BILL TO: SHIP TO:
PURCHASE UPS UPS UPS UPS WILL ORDER DATE

ORDER NO. GROUND RED BLUE ORANGE TRUCK CALL DATE REQ.
PRICE
QTY. PART NO. DESCRIPTION EACH TOTAL
Note: Freight charges will be applied once order has been processed. TOTAL
PAYMENT OPTIONS:
(Please select payment type)
NET 30 (Existing Customers ONLY) ORDERED BY:
C.O.D.
CREDIT CARD CARD

VISA NUMBER
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DISCOVER CARD-
HOLDER
NAME

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
173
DATE: FAX: PHONE:
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OUR LEGAL ENTITY IS: CORPORATION ● CO-PARTNERSHIP ● PROPRIERTORSHIP
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DATE: SIGNED BY: TITLE:

Toll-Free: 1-866-764-7278
174
175
176
177
178
179
KC-UNIVERSAL
Complete LPG Kit (Less Tank)
Some say buy oem style kits. But, how many mechanics have worked on that
forklift over the years? Most of that truck has already been replaced with af-
termarket parts. So, some things don’t match up to the original oem style
truck. Our kits have it all. Plus more! When you are in the field you can not
make bracket changes or make your hoses longer. With PNG’s LPG kit you
get bulk! Try our universal kits and see for yourself!

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PNG Technologies—Building Metal Shop Parts Department

Shipping Department Sales Department Front Office

G-50 Test Bench Conversion Shop Kit Assembly Area

LP-Gas Carburetion Service Manual 67-113

Schematics/Misc. Information 114-142

Repair Kit Instructions

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CT311011 CT9326501430 DW311011 HY163446 HY196297

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FITT-1/4-1155—1/4” Pipe Slotted Head Plug

FITT-1/4-1101—1/4” Male Pipe Plug Hex Head

FITT-3/8-1301—3/8” Male Pipe Plug Hex Head

FITT-1/8-1018—1/8” Pipe Coupling

FITT-1/4-1102—1/4” Pipe Coupling

FITT-1/8-1019—1/8” Pipe x 1/4 “Hose 90° Brass

FITT-1/8-1020—1/8” NPT x 3/8” Vac 90° Brass

FITT-1/8-1021—1/8” NPT x 3/16” Hose, Elbow, Brass

FITT-1/8-1016—1/8” NPT x 3/16” Hose I.D. Hose Barb

FITT-1/8-1017—1/8” Pipe x 1/4” Hose 180° Brass

FITT-1/8-1032—1/8” Pipe x 5/16” Hose Barb

FITT-1/8-1002—1/8” Pipe 45°, Street Elbow

FITT-1/4-1106—1/4” Pipe 45° Street Elbow

FITT-1/8-1001—1/8” Pipe Street Tee

FITT-3/8-1335—3/8” Pipe Street Tee

FITT-1/4-1104—1/4” Pipe Street Tee

Products in this catalog are available directly from PNG Technologies

FITT-1/4-1103—1/4” Pipe x 5/8” Hose Beaded Barb Elbow

FITT-1/4-0059—1/4” NPT x 1/2” Hose Brass Elbow

FITT-1/2-1409—1/2” Pipe x 5/8” Hose Beaded Barb Elbow

FITT-1/8-1041—1/8” Pipe x 1/4” Tube 45° Elbow

FITT-3/8-1302—3/8” Pipe x 3/8” Tube 45° Elbow

FITT-1/4-1105—1/4” x 3/8” Flare 45° Brass

FITT-1/8-1038—1/8” Pipe x 1/4” Tube Male Elbow

FITT-1/4-1107—1/4” NPT x 3/8” Flare 90° Brass