TE-1108: Introduction to Textiles

Lecture 1,2,3,4,5
Definition of Textile:
The word 'textile' is from Latin, from the adjective textilis, meaning 'woven', from textus, the past participle of
the verb texere, 'to weave'.
According to textile institute’s terms and definition glossary explaines, its now “A general term applied to any
manufacture (creation) from fibres, filaments or yarns characteristics by flexibility, fineness and high ratio of
length to thickness.

Textile is a very widely used term which includes:

I. All kinds of fibres (cotton, jute, wool, viscose)
II. All kind of process (Spinning, weaving, knitting, dyeing, printing, finishing etc.)
III. All kind of machineries ( Spinning machineries, weaving machineries, knitting machineries)
IV. To convert textile fibre into finished or end product ( garments, furnishing materials, household
textiles, medical textiles, shoe textiles, fishing nets etc.)

Process flow chart of fibres up to finished product:

Input/Raw Material Process steps Output
Textile Fibre Yarn manufacturing Yarn
(Spinning Mill)

Yarn Fabric Manufacturing Grey Fabric

(Weaving/ Knitting/ Non-woven Industry)

Grey Fabric Wet Processing Colored/Finished Fabric

(Scouring, Bleaching, Dyeing, printing
&
Finishing Industry)

Colored/ Garment/Apparel Manufacturing Garments/Apparel

Finished Fabric
Different Terms and Definitions of Textile Engineering
Fibre:
The basic entity, either natural or manufactured, which is twisted into yarns, and then used in the production of
a fabric.
Filament:
A manufactured fibre of indefinite length (continuous), extruded from the spinneret during the fibre production
process.
Yarn:
A continuous strand of textile fibres created when a cluster of individual fibres are twisted together. These long
yarns are used to create fabrics, either by knitting or weaving.
Fabric:
Fabric is a flexible planer substance which is manufactured from assembly of fibres and/or yarns that has
substantial surface area in relation to its thickness and sufficient mechanical strength to give the assembly
inherent cohesion. Fabrics are most commonly woven or knitted, but the term includes assemblies produced by
lace making, tufting, felting, net making, and the so-called nonwoven processes.
Fabric length:
Unless otherwise specified, the usable length of a piece between any truth marks, piece-ends, or numbering,
when the fabric is measured laid flat on a table in the absence of tension.
Fabric width
Unless otherwise specified, the distance from edge to edge of a fabric when laid flat on a table without tension.
In the case of commercial dispute the measurement should be made after the fabric has been conditioned
warp
In woven fabric, the yarns that run lengthwise and is interwoven with the fill (weft) yarns.
weft
In woven fabric, the filling yarns that run perpendicular to the warp yarns.
Weaving
The process of producing a fabric by interlacing warp and weft threads is known as weaving. Before going
straightly to the Weaving process; some pretreatment and pre-process should be carried out.
Non-woven fabric:
Non-woven fabric is the fabrics have chemical, mechanical, thermal or solvent material bonding. Nonwoven
fabrics are products made of parallel laid, cross-laid or randomly laid webs of fibre bonded with the application
of adhesive or thermoplastic fibers under application of heat and pressure. Non-woven fabric is very necessary
for medical, industrial and different sector.
Fabric Manufacturing Techniques:
The methods of manufacturing fabrics are weaving, knitting, braiding and non-woven. The more
unconventional method include bonding fibers by mechanical, thermal, chemical or solvent means which is
called non woven fabric.

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Garments and apparel:
Garment is basically consists of one or more fabric or leather pieces joined firmly with the help of thread, fabric
and trims, into a well designed shapes ready for wearing ..e.g shirts , trousers, jackets, scarf, shorts, etc.

Apparels are slight different from garments it also consists of all these things but not for wearing .e.g bed sheets
, curtains etc.
Garments manufacturing:
Garment manufacturing processing in industrial scale depends on some steps and techniques. It starts from
order receiving and will be end to dispatching shipment of the finished garments. A process flow chart helps to
understand how raw materials are moved from one process to another process until raw materials are
transformed into the desired product (garments).

Process Flow Chart of Garment Manufacturing:

Design/sketch ↓
↓ Fabric spreading
Basic block ↓
↓ Cutting
Working pattern ↓
↓ Sorting or bundling
Sample making ↓
↓ Sewing
Basic manufacturing ↓
difference Ironing and finishing
↓ ↓
Approved sample Final inspection
↓ ↓
Costing Packing
↓ ↓
Production pattern Cartooning
↓ ↓
Grading Send to buyer
↓
Marker making

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Figure: Different component of a basic woven shirt

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Back part:
The part of a garment, which covers the back part of human body.

Back part of shirt

Yoke:
A shaped piece fabric in a garment, fitted about or below the neck and shoulders, from
which the rest of the garment hangs. It can be split in two, called the ―split yoke.

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 Yoke of shirt

Front part:
The front part of a shirt.

Front part of shirt

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Sleeve:
The part of a garment that covers
the arm and is usually cut wider
than the cuffs. Most sleeve lengths
fall between 32 and 36 inches.

Cuff:
A fold or band serving as
a trimming or finish for the bottom of a sleeve. Some cuff styles include: French Cuffs and
Barrel Cuffs.

Cuff

Pocket:
A small bag like attachment forming part of a garment and used to carry small articles, as
a flat pouch sewn inside a pair of pants or a piece of material sewn on its sides and bottom
to the outside of a shirt.

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 Pocket

Collar:
The part of a shirt that encompasses the neckline of the garment, often so as to fold or roll
over. Comes in various shapes, depending on the face shape and occasion.

Collar