MONTANOV 202 TM

An emulsifier from nature

• Glucolipid emulsifier of vegetable origin

• For “light” and “evanescent” textures

• For long-lasting hydration

• With perfect skin-compatibility

- non-comedogenic
- non-sensitizing

1
 CONTENTS

1 - INTRODUCTION ....................................................................................... 3

2 - DEFINITION .............................................................................................. 4

3 - MONTANOV™ 202, A VERSATILE EMULSIFIER........................................... 5

3.1 - MONTANOV™ 202, emulsifies a wide range of fats.......................................... 5

3.2 - MONTANOV™ 202 as a co-emulsifier ............................................................... 5

3.3 - MONTANOV™ 202 as a thickening agent ......................................................... 6

3.4 - MONTANOV™ 202, behaviour on hydrolysis .................................................... 6

4 - MONTANOV™ 202, A LONG-LASTING HYDRATING EFFECT........................ 7

4.1 - Hydration promoter......................................................................................... 7

4.2 - Liquid crystal promoter ................................................................................... 8

5 - MONTANOV™ 202, FOR THE FORMULATION OF FOUNDATIONS ............... 9

6 - FORMULATION ADVICE .......................................................................... 10

6.1 - Working concentration .................................................................................. 10

6.2 - How to use MONTANOV™ 202 ....................................................................... 10

6.3 - Sensorial profile ............................................................................................ 11

7 - TOXICOLOGICAL DATA .......................................................................... 12

8 - REGULATORY DATA ............................................................................... 14

9 - ANALYTICAL DATA ................................................................................ 15

10 - APPLICATIONS ..................................................................................... 15

2
1 - INTRODUCTION

MONTANOV™ 202 differs from the other MONTANOV™ products essentially by the
evanescent and light feel that it gives to creams. The emulsions obtained spread
easily with fast penetration. They leave the skin soft, but not oily or shiny, with a
matte finish effect. These specific sensory characteristics, coupled with a
hypoallergenic and non-comedogenic profile, means that MONTANOV™ 202 is
perfectly suited to the needs of certain types of skin:
- oily skin,
- skin with a tendency to acne,
- ethnic skins,
- Asian skin.

The evanescent texture of MONTANOV™ 202 also makes it perfectly suitable for the
emerging market of care products for men.

In addition, through its long-lasting hydrating effect, MONTANOV™ 202 is ideally

suited to body care, and provides a feeling of well-being indispensable for this type
of application.

Completely versatile, MONTANOV™ 202 can be used to develop both fluid creams
(tube packaging) and thick creams (pot packaging). It is just as suitable for facial
applications as for body applications.

MONTANOV™ 202 is also suitable for the formulation of foundations with a gentle,
light texture and a matte finish.

3
2 - DEFINITION

MONTANOV™ 202 fully meets the requirements of the market, which expects gentle
products that respect the skin and its environment.

MONTANOV™ 202 is a glucolipid emulsifier produced from materials of

vegetable origin:

- glucose extracted from wheat, maize or manioc,

- fat derived from rapeseed colza oil.

The glycosidic link that joins the hydrophilic nucleus to the lipophilic fatty chain
makes the molecule perfectly stable and gives it very good resistance to hydrolysis.

Its novelty lies in the absence of ethylene oxide. The oxyethylene group
characteristic of conventional non-ionic emulsifiers is replaced here by a natural
saccharide. The result is a product comprising a hydrophilic glucolipid and a
lipophilic fatty chain.

4
3 - MONTANOV™ 202, A VERSATILE EMULSIFIER

3.1 - MONTANOV™ 202 emulsifies a wide range of fats

Like the other MONTANOV™ products, MONTANOV™ 202 can emulsify a wide range
of fats.

Table 1: Characteristics of emulsions based on MONTANOV™ 202

Appearance Stability
RT 40 °C
Mineral oil cream > M3 > M3
Isohexadecane cream > M3 > M3
Cyclomethicone cream > M3 > M3
Dimethicone cream > M3 > M3
Squalane cream > M3 > M3
Sweet almond oil cream > M3 > M3
Jojoba oil cream > M3 > M3
Cetearyl ethylhexanoate cream > M3 > M3
Isononyl isononanoate cream > M3 > M3
C 12-15 alkyl benzoate cream > M3 > M3
Formula tested: 5% MONTANOV™ 202/20% fat/Water qs 100%.

To obtain complete stability at 50 °C, the addition of a stabilizing polymer

(SEPIGEL™ - SIMULGEL™ - SEPIPLUS™ - SEPINOV™ ranges) is recommended.

3.2 - MONTANOV™ 202 as co-emulsifier

• Self-emulsifiable bases on fatty acid esters + ethoxylated fatty acids (such as

SIMULSOL™ 165) are widely used in cosmetics but show a lack of stability at 40 °C
and 50 °C.

The MONTANOV™ 202 - SIMULSOL™ 165 combination corrects this failing very
easily, as shown in the table below.

Table 2: Emulsion stability according to emulsifying system

SIMULSOL™ 165 (2%)

SIMULSOL™ 165 (5%)
/ MONTANOV™ 202 (3%)

Nature of oil phase Stability Stability

RT 40 °C 50 °C RT 40 °C 50 °C
Mineral oil PS PS PS > M3 > M3 > M1
Sweet almond oil PS PS PS > M3 > M3 > M1
Dimethicone PS PS PS > M3 > M3 > M1
Caprylic/capric triglyceride PS PS PS > M3 > M3 > M1
Formulas tested: 2 or 5% SIMULSOL 165/0 or 3% MONTANOV™ 202/20% oil phase/Water qs 100%.
Key: PS: Phase separation; Stable longer than 3 months

5
This type of combination gives creams with a light, evanescent feel (refer to SEPPIC
formulas 7034, 6982B, 6849 A).

• MONTANOV™ 202 can also be combined with MONTANOV™ 14, a thickening

agent with a light feel (refer to SEPPIC formula 6941).

• Combination with MONTANOV™ 68 gives a mixed texture which is of great

interest for anti-ageing care (refer to SEPPIC formulas 6767 and 6925 A).

3.3 - MONTANOV™ 202 as a thickening agent

MONTANOV™202 has a high melting point. This property is used to advantage in all
formulas where waxes need to be introduced, for example W/O emulsions,
mascaras and lipsticks.
In such cases MONTANOV™ acts as a thickening agent, improving the consistency of
the product.

⇒ refer to SEPPIC formula 6945 “Matte-finish compact foundation”

3.4 - MONTANOV™ 202, behaviour on hydrolysis

The etherified structure of MONTANOV™ 202 gives it excellent chemical stability

and the ability to emulsify in strongly acidic or alkaline media without risk of
degradation.
MONTANOV™ 202 is compatible with all oxidizing or oxidizable active ingredients,
acids and bases, such as AHAs and vitamins.
MONTANOV™ 202 can be used to develop specific formulas such as depilatory
creams, perm products and bleaching agents.

6
4 - MONTANOV™ 202, A LONG-LASTING HYDRATING
EFFECT

4.1 - Hydration promoter

The glucolipid structure of MONTANOV™ 202 means that it has intrinsic

hydrating properties, enabling the formulation of active excipients able to
prevent dehydration of the epidermis. It facilitates the action of conventionally used
hydrating active ingredients (urea, glycerine, NaPC, hyaluronic acid, etc.).

The hydrating effect of MONTANOV™ 202 has been demonstrated in vivo using the
corneometer method and compared with that of a commonly-used emulsifier.
20*
treated area / control area

20
MONTANOV 202 (5)
18 SIMULSOL 165 + LANOL C (3/2)
16
14 13*
12
% hydration

10
10 8
8 7*
6
4 3
2
0
1h30 3h00 5h00

* statistically significant (Student's t test - x < 0.05)

Formulas tested: 5% emulsifiers/20% cetearyloctanoate/1% SEPIGEL™ 305/

preservatives qs/Water qs 100%.

MONTANOV™ 202 has a long-lasting hydrating effect. Significant hydration

persists 5 hours after application of the emulsion, in contrast to conventional
emulsifiers (DERMSCAN expert report 97-2117).
⇒ refer to SEPPIC formula 6925 A (with TEWL test).

7
4.2 - Liquid crystal promoter

MONTANOV™ 202 is capable of forming liquid crystals whatever the nature of the
emulsified oil phase (esters, silicones, vegetable oils, etc.).

The liquid crystals consist of a series of lamellar bilayers of emulsifiers around

the oil droplets.
They form an anisotropic structure easily detectable by its birefringence using an
optical microscope with polarized light (photograph 1 below).

Photograph 1: Liquid crystals in an Diagram 1: The emulsifier

emulsion based on MONTANOV™202 molecules are stacked in
(Optical microscope image in polarized regular lamellar bilayers
light, 400x) around the oil droplets.

→ The liquid crystals obtained with MONTANOV™ 202 have the special
characteristic of fully enveloping the oil droplet and forming a stable and rigid
shell, which prevents coalescence.

8
5 - MONTANOV™ 202, FOR THE FORMULATION OF
FOUNDATIONS

MONTANOV™ 202 can be used for easy production of Oil-in-Water foundations.

MONTANOV™ 202, an emulsifier fully compatible with fillers:

MONTANOV™ 202 can be used to produce foundations and ensure perfect dispersal
of the fillers over time. The textures obtained stay smooth and stable over time.

Table 3: Comparison of two foundations

with different emulsifying systems

Characteristics of emulsions after 3 months of stability

Appearance in the bottle Texture when spreading

Emulsifying system

MONTANOV™ 202 Glossy stable cream Smooth and uniform

SIMULSOL™ 165 /
Matte unstable cream Heterogeneous and granular
Potassium cetyl phosphate

Formulas tested: SIMULSOL™ 165 (0 or 2%), Potassium cetyl phosphate (0 or 1%), MONTANOV™ (0 or 5%),
Isostearyl Isostearate (10%), Octyl palmitate (10%), Xanthan gum (0.15%), SIMULGEL™ EG (0.5%), Water (qs
100%), Pigment paste: Water (20%), Butylene glycol (4%), PEG 400 (4%), PECOSIL PS100 (1%), Titanium
dioxide/Talc (9%), Iron oxide (1.25%), Tromethamine (qs pH 7), MICROPEARL™ M201 (3%), MANOLIVA™ (3%),
SEPICIDE™ HB (0.3%), SEPICIDE™ CI (0.2%), Fragrance (0.1%), EDTA (0.05%), Tromethamine (qs pH 6.5).

MONTANOV™ 202, for gentle, light textures:

MONTANOV™ 202 can be used to formulate foundations with a gentle,

evanescent and light feel and a natural finish.
It enables easy formulation of fluid foundations that are stable over time.
MONTANOV™ 202 has the characteristic of giving foundations a matte finish
particularly suitable for the formulation of foundations for oily skin (with a tendency
to acne).

⇒ Refer to SEPPIC formula 6837 “Fresh and evanescent coloured cream”

9
 Table 4: Characteristics of a foundation based on MONTANOV™ 202

MONTANOV™ 202
SEPPIC formula 6754C
% of white fillers that can
9%
be incorporated
Gentle, evanescent
Sensorial profile
and light

Texture Fluid creams

Hydration promoter
Specific property Matte finish
Foundations for oily skin (with
Application
tendency to acne)

Chemical nature Non-ionic glucolipid

6 - FORMULATION ADVICE

6.1 - Working concentration

MONTANOV™ 202 can be used at a concentration from 3 to 5%, depending on the

required fluidity of the emulsion.

6.2 - How to use MONTANOV™ 202

To produce emulsions based on MONTANOV™ 202 under optimum conditions,

given its melting point, our advice is to:

– heat the oil phase in a double-jacketed vessel at a minimum of 80-85 °C (or in a

water bath for laboratory-scale production)

– form the emulsion at 80-85 °C in vessels fitted with rotor/stator turbine and
planetary mixer (at laboratory scale, the use of a Silverson or equivalent
homogenizer is advised)

– avoid sudden cooling.

10
– It is recommended that the stirring system be started after the mixing of the
two phases (“one go” procedure).
– Lower shear can be used (a disperser) if sufficient quantities of polymers are
added to increase the shear force and make the emulsion finer.

– Moreover, because of its self-emulsifiable character, MONTANOV™ 202 shows

great versatility of use in industrial processes: it can be introduced either in
the oil phase or in the aqueous phase.

6.3 - Sensorial profile

• TEXTURE
During the sensory analysis of emulsions produced using MONTANOV™ 202, the
qualifying terms most often used by the panellists were:

“lightness” - “evanescence” - “silky”

Emulsions based on MONTANOV™ 202 appear “lighter” compared with emulsions

based on MONTANOV™ 68, which appear “richer”. They are also smoother, whiter
and glossier* than MONTANOV™ 68.

MONTANOV™ 202 gives emulsions with a light, evanescent feel which spread easily
with fast penetration. These emulsions leave the skin soft, but not oily or shiny,
with a matte finish effect.
These specific sensory characteristics, coupled with a hypoallergenic, non-
comedogenic profile and good hydrating capacity, mean that MONTANOV™ 202 is
perfectly suited to the needs of certain types of skin and certain cosmetic targets:
- oily skin,
- skin with a tendency to acne,
- ethnic skins,
- Asian skin,
- care products for men,
- body care.

* Caution: “glossy emulsion” means that the emulsion appears visually glossy in its
packaging container. Under no circumstances does the MONTANOV™ 202 emulsion leave the
skin shiny after application.

• CONSISTENCY
Completely versatile, MONTANOV™ 202 can be used to develop both fluid creams
(tube packaging) and thick creams (pot packaging). It is just as suitable for facial
applications as for body applications.

11
7 - TOXICOLOGICAL DATA

TESTS ON HEALTHY VOLUNTEERS

SKIN TOLERANCE

- Single application
In a 48-hour occlusive patch test at 5% in vaseline oil on 10 healthy volunteers,
MONTANOV™ 202 does not cause any irritation reaction. Its tolerance is assessed as
very satisfactory (expert report IEC R 61073 D).

- Iterative applications
After iterative application of four occlusive patches for 48 hours on 10 healthy
volunteers, MONTANOV™ 202 at 5% in water does not cause any irritation reaction.
Its tolerance is assessed as very satisfactory (expert report IEC 70168 RD 3).

SENSITIZATION

MONTANOV™ 202 was tested at a concentration of 5% on 50 healthy volunteers,

according to the protocol of MARZULLI and MAIBACH.

- Induction period
9 consecutive occlusive applications of a 5% dilution of MONTANOV™ 202 in water
for 48 hours on the same area.
- Rest period
15 days without any application.
- Challenge phase
Single occlusive epicutaneous application for approximately 48 hours of a 5%
dilution of MONTANOV™ 202 in distilled water.
- Results
Each volunteer underwent a clinical examination at the 1st, 4th, 8th and 10th
applications. Any reactions were recorded in comparison with the control patch
(vehicle = water).
- Conclusion
Under these test conditions, MONTANOV™ 202 did not cause any primary or
cumulative irritation reaction or skin sensitization (expert report IEC 701 68 RD).

12
COMEDOGENESIS

MONTANOV™ 202 at 5% in an emulsion was tested on 20 volunteers.

- Protocol
20 volunteers with oily or mixed skin, with a tendency to acne, who underwent
individual clinical examination by a dermatologist (before and after treatment)
2 applications/day
4 weeks duration

- Emulsion under test (ref)

MONTANOV™ 202 5%
Isohexadecane 5%
SEPIGEL™ 305 0.2%
Water qs 100%
Preservative qs

- Results
Analysis of the results showed that, under these conditions, MONTANOV™ 202 is
“Non-comedogenic” and “well tolerated, under dermatological monitoring” (expert
report IEC 704 65 RD).

“ALTERNATIVE” TESTS

HET CAM
Tested on chicken egg chorioallantoic membrane according to the technique
developed by Luepke and published in the Journal Officiel de la République
Française, MONTANOV™ 202 diluted to 1% in water is classified as non-irritant with
an index of = 0 (Seppic report Tox HET CAM 1105).

RBCA TEST

- Haemolyzing capacity
The haemolyzing capacity of MONTANOV™ 202 on red blood cells was assessed
according to the technique published by INVITTOX No. 37. The test uses a dose-
effect curve to determine the product concentration causing lysis of 50% of red
blood cells. This value is H50.

In the case of MONTANOV™ 202, the test result is H50 > 1000 ppm.
MONTANOV™ 202 is classified as non-haemolytic (SEPPIC report tox RBCA 856).

13
- Denaturing capacity
Assessment of the denaturing capacity consists in measuring the degree of
denaturation of oxyhaemoglobin. This effect, secondary to haemolysis, gives
information on the alteration of intracellular proteins.
Because of the highly lipophilic nature of the product, this parameter could not be
assessed.
Tested by the RBCA technique, MONTANOV™ 202 shows very good tolerance.

SUMMARY

MONTANOV™ 202, like the other products in the MONTANOV™ range, has:
- Excellent tolerance (tested under dermatological monitoring)
- Hypoallergenic
- Non-comedogenic

MONTANOV™ 202 is the ideal excipient for sensitive skin, for oily skin with a
tendency to acne, and also for dehydrated skin, which is often fragile.

8 - REGULATORY DATA

INCI name : Arachidyl alcohol (and) Behenyl alcohol

(and) Arachidyl glucoside

CAS No. : 90604–34-5 / 100231-68-3

EINECS No. : 292-327-2 / 309-369-5

14
9 - ANALYTICAL DATA

ANALYSIS TYPICAL LIMIT METHOD

Bead appearance
Complies VISUAL 20 °C

Acid value
0.0 – 1.0 mg KOH/g NFT 60-204

Hydroxyl value
210 – 230 mg KOH/g S52-080 A

pH at 5%
5.5 – 7.5 S52-256 A

Colour (VCS)
0.0 – 3.0 VCS S52-150 C

Water
0.00 – 1.00% S52-006 B

Melting point
74.0 – 78.0 °C S52-009 B

Note: The following values are given for guidance only; only the certificate of analysis supplied with

each batch guarantees the product specification.

10 - APPLICATIONS

Because of its intrinsic properties, MONTANOV™ 202 is the emulsifier of choice for
the production of specific emulsions such as:

- emulsion for oily skin,

- light body emulsion
- cream for sensitive skin
- hydrating cream
- foundation
- sun or after-sun milk
- emulsion lipstick
- mascara
- specific products (depilatory, permanent, dyes. etc.).

15
 LONG LASTING MOISTURIZING REPAIRING CREAM
6925A

Formula

A • MONTANOV 68 (Cetearyl alcohol and Cetearyl glucoside - SEPPIC) 1.50 %

• MONTANOV 202 (Arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and 1.50 %
arachidylglucoside - SEPPIC)
• Cetearyl ethyl hexanoate 15.00 %
B • Water QSP
100%
C • SIMULGEL EG (Sodium acrylate/acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer and 1.00 %
Isohexadecane and Polysorbate 80 - SEPPIC)
D • Fragrance 0.30 %
• SEPICIDE HB (Phenoxyethanol/Methylparaben/Ethylparaben /Propylparaben 0.30 %
/Butylparaben - SEPPIC)
• SEPICIDE CI (Imidazolidinyl urea - SEPPIC) 0.20 %

Procedure

Heat both fatty and aqueous phases to 80°C. Add A to B and start homogenizing, after few minutes
introduce SIMULGEL EG. After 7’ (DUMEK pilot batch 2kg), stop heating and homogenizing – allow to
cool with moderate stirring. At 40°C introduce ingredients in D .

Comments

MONTANOV 202 Glucolipid emulsifier in harmony with nature. It produces emulsions with a
very light, evanescent feel that are easy to apply and rapidly absorbed.
These emulsions leave the skin feeling soft and non-greasy.

MONTANOV 68 Glucolipid emulsifier in harmony with nature. It can be used to formulate

rich, smooth textures with any type of oil phase

SIMULGEL EG Thickening and emulsifying agent in liquid form. Very easy to use (no
predispersion or neutralization). SIMULGEL EG perfectly stabilizes emulsions
against high temperatures. It provides rich, silky texture that are easy to
apply and rapidly absorbed by the skin.

SEPICIDE HB / CI Preservatives

16
Characteristics

Appearance white cream

pH 6.5
Viscosity 30 000 mPa.s BROOKFIELD RV7 6rpm
Stability stable at room temperature-40°C-50°C
stable when centrifuged 20’ at 3000rpm 50°C
stable after freez-thaw cycles –5/+40°C 1 month

Assessment

Mositurizing effect has been assessed trough TEWL measurements on 25 volunteers using the product
on their legs twice a day for 2 weeks

-5

TEWL
-10
(% versus D0)

-15

-20 *
D0 D0T8h D15
* : Significant diiference with D0 (p<0,05)

Notes

Cetearyl ethylhexanoate (supplied by SEPPIC in some countries – ask us)

Fragrance : ALMA C6211785 (QUEST)

17
 MOISTURIZING BODY LOTION – DRY SKIN
6982B

Formula

A • LANOL 99 (isononyl isononanoate – SEPPIC) 3.00 %

• Dimethicone 1.00 %
• SIMULSOL 165 (Glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate - SEPPIC) 2.00 %
• MONTANOV 202 (Arachidyl alcohol & behenyl alcohol & arachidyl 1.00 %
glucoside - SEPPIC)
B • Aqua/Water Up to 100%
• Glycerin 5.00 %
C • Isohexadecane 3.00 %
• SEPIPLUS 400 (Polyacrylate-13 & polyisobutène & polysorbate 20 – 0.30 %
SEPPIC)
D • SEPICIDE HB (Phenoxyethanol/Methylparaben/Ethylparaben 0.30 %
/Propylparaben /Butylparaben - SEPPIC)
• DMDM Hydantoïn 0.20 %
• Fragrance 0.15 %

Procedure

Heat fatty phase A to 80°C and aqueous phase to the same temperature. Introduce A into the aqueous
phase and homogenize with a rotor stator (1500 rpm DUMEK – 2kg batch) for 10’. After 4’ introduce
isohexadecane and SEPIPLUS 400 under homogenisation. When stopping homogenisation, begin to
cool slowly and add ingredients of phase D at about 30°C: at this step homogenize again for 1’. Adjust
final pH if necessary

Comments

MONTANOV 202 Glucolipid emulsifier in harmony with nature. It produces emulsions with a
very light, evanescent feel that are easy to apply and rapidly absorbed.
These emulsions leave the skin feeling soft and non-greasy.

SIMULSOL 165 Self emulsifying base. Can be used synergistically with any emulsifier of the
MONTANOV range in order to produce smooth and stable creams.

SEPIPLUSTM 400 A new generation of « Hydro Swelling Droplet » polymers, for improved
performance. SEPIPLUS TM
is designed to give an improved electrolyte
resistance profile. Compatible with a wide range of actives over a wide pH
range (pH 3 to 11). A thickening and emulsifying agent in a liquid form,
ready to use (no predispersion or neutralization).

LANOL 99 Silky ester.

SEPICIDE HB Preservative.

18
Characteristics

Appearance White lotion

PH 5.6
Viscosity 15,000mPa.s (Brookfield LV4 6rpm)
Stability Stable at room temperature – 40°C – 50°C
Stable after 18h at –18°C
Stable when centrifuged 20’ at 3000rpm

Notes

Dimethicone : DC200.350 (DOW CORNING)

Isohexadecane (EXXON)
Fragrance: delice figues RS12021 (TECHNICOFLOR)

19
 BUTTER CREAM
NON GREASY FEEL
6849A

Formula

A • MONTANOV 202 (Arachidyl alcohol and Behenyl alcohol and 03.00 %

Arachidylglucoside - SEPPIC)
• LANOL P (Glycol palmitate – SEPPIC) 05.00 %
• SIMULSOL 165 (PEG-100 stearate & Glyceryl stearate – SEPPIC) 02.00 %
• Isodecyl neopentanoate 05.00 %
• LANOL 99 (Isononyl isononaoate – SEPPIC) 09.00 %
• Butylmethoxy dibenzoyl methane (avobenzone) 02.00 %
• Octyl methoxycinnamate (octinoxate) 05.00 %
B • MICROPEARL M305 (Crosslinked polymethylmethacrylate - SEPPIC) 02.00 %
• SEPITONIC M3 (Magnesium aspartate & Zinc gluconate & Copper 01.00 %
gluconate – SEPPIC)
• SEPICALM S (Sodium cocoyl aminoacids & Sarcosine & Potassium 02.00 %
aspartate & Magnesium aspartate - SEPPIC)
• Disodium EDTA 00.20 %
• Water QS 100%
C • Cyclomethicone 08.00 %
• SIMULGEL EG (Sodium acrylate/acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer & 02.50 %
Isohexadecane & Polysorbate 80 -SEPPIC)
D • Colour QS
• Fragrance 00.40 %
• Alcohol 95 04.00 %
• SEPICIDE HB (Phenoxyethanol/ Methylparaben/ Ethylparaben/ 00.50 %
Propylparaben/ Butylparaben - SEPPIC)

Procedure

Heat the water phase B to 75°C including all the components indicated (MICROPEARL has to be
dispersed). Heat the oily phase A to 70-75°C. Blend A and B then start the homogenizer. Introduce the
volatile silicone then the polymer and continue homogenisation for few minuts (4’ for a two kg batch).
Stop the homogenizer then begin to cool under moderate stirring. At 40°C add colour, fragrance,
ethanol and preservative. Restart again the homogenization for 2’. Fill the packages at 30°C.

Comments

MONTANOV 202 Glucolipid emulsifier in harmony with nature. It produces emulsions with a
very light, evanescent feel that are easy to apply and rapidly absorbed.
These emulsions leave the skin feeling soft and non-greasy. Their matt finish
effect helps prevent shine. MONTANOV 202 can promote liquid crystals
according to the emulsion diagram, creating water reservoirs within the
emulsion to help maintain skin moisturization.

20
SIMULSOL 165 Self emulsifying base. Can be used synergistically with any emulsifier of the
MONTANOV range in order to produce smooth and stable creams.

LANOL P Texturizing agent usefull to increase thickness without whitening effect onto
the skin.

SIMULGEL EG Thickening and emulsifying agent in liquid form. Very easy to use (no
predispersion or neutralization). SIMULGEL EG perfectly stabilizes emulsions
against high temperatures giving rich, silky texture that are easy to apply and
rapidly absorbed by the skin.

MICROPEARL M305 Consisting of smooth, ultra-soft microspheres that do not dry out the skin,
MICROPEARL M305 gives emulsions a slightly powdery feel. MICROPEARL
M305 also contributes to the mattifying effect of the formula by eliminating
the phenomena of specular reflection.

SEPITONIC M3 Multimineral chrono-energizer. Its zinc, copper and magnesium content

helps stimulate the cells by increasing the energy profile (Pyruvate, ATP) and
overall metabolism (DNA, proteins). Ideal for tired skin, SEPITONIC M3
delivers the elements needed for cell dynamism and the maintenance of skin
function. It works to stimulate cell regeneration and helps restore fresh,
radiant skin.

SEPICALM S Lipo-amino soothing agent enriched with minerals. Specially adapted to the
needs of sensitive and stressed skin, it helps combat external stress factors
of mechanical, chemical (AHA) or actinic origin.

Characteriscs
Aspect blue thick cream
pH approx. 5.5
Viscosity >100,000 mPa.s BROOKFIELD LV 6rpm
Stability Stable at AT/40°C/50°C
Stable after freeze-thaw cycles –5/+40°C during 1 month
Stable when centrifuged at 50°C 3000rpm

Assessment
Vitro SPF VALUE= approx.18 according to internal SEPPIC protocol 57CO033

Notes
Isodecyl neopentanoate (supplied by SEPPIC in some countries, please ask us).
Butylmethoxy dibenzoyl methane (avobenzone): PARSOL 1789 (GIVAUDAN)
Octyl methoxycinnamate (octinoxate); UVINUL MC80 (BASF)
Colour: FDC Blue one
Fragrance: CITRUS WATERFALL (MANE)

21
 TINTED CREAM
FRESH AND EVANESCENT
6837

Formula

1- • Aqua/Water 20.00 %
• Butylene glycol 4.00 %
• PEG-400 4.00 %
• Dimethicone copolyol PEG-7 phosphate 1.00 %
• Sodium Hydroxyde QS pH=9
• Titanium dioxyde 7.00 %
• Talc 2.00 %
• Iron oxide yellow 0.80 %
• Iron oxide red 0.30 %
• Iron oxide black 0.05 %

B • Isononyl isononanoate 8.00 %

• Caprylic capric triglyceride 8.00 %
• MONTANOV 202 (Arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and 5.00 %
arachidylglucoside - SEPPIC)

C • Aqua/Water QSP 100%

• MICROPEARL M305 (Methylmethacrylate crosspolymer - SEPPIC) 2.00 %
• Tetrasodium EDTA 0.05 %
D • Cyclomethicone 4.00 %
• SIMULGEL NS (Hydroxyethylacrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate 1.50 %
copolymer & squalane & polysorbate 60 SEPPIC)
E • SEPICIDE HB (Phenoxyethanol/Methylparaben/Ethylparaben 0.50 %
/Propylparaben/ Butylparaben - SEPPIC)
• SEPICIDE CI (Imidazolidinyl urea - SEPPIC) 0.30 %
• Parfum/Fragrance 0.20 %

Procedure
Mix the liquid ingredients in phase A then adjust the pH to approximately 9 before adding the
pigments. Grind this pigment phase using a bead grinder (prepare a quantity greater than that
theoretically required due to losses).
Melt phase B at 80-85°C, avoiding over-heating.
Heat the water to 80°C then add the MICROPEARL and EDTA. Then add pigment paste A, maintain
heating at 80°C.
Add B to the aqueous phase then start the emulsor (rotor turbine/stator). After few minuts introduce
SIMULGEL NS and the volatile silicone. Continue mixing (rotor/stator) until a vacuum is obtained (60°C).
Then gradually cool under moderate agitation (anchor type) and add the ingredients of E at around
30°C. Adjust the final pH if necessary.

22
Comments

MONTANOV 202 Glucolipid emulsifier in harmony with nature. It produces emulsions with a
very light, evanescent feel that are easy to apply and rapidly absorbed.
These emulsions leave the skin feeling soft and non-greasy. Their matte
finish effect helps prevent shine.

SIMULGEL NS Thickening and emulsifying agent in very easy to use liquid form (no pre-
dispersion or neutralization). Provides a sensation of freshness followed by a
melting effect on contact with the skin. It leaves a feeling of velvety softness.
SIMULGEL NS perfectly stabilizes emulsions against high temperatures.
SIMULGEL NS easily stabilizes mineral additives. The appearance of the
emulsion remains smooth and homogeneous over time.

MICROPEARL M305 Consisting of smooth, ultra-soft microspheres that do not dry out the skin,
MICROPEARL M305 gives emulsions and gel-creams a slightly powdery feel.
The greater the percentage of MICROPEARL M305, the more pronounced the
powdery feel. Due to its excellent hydrodispersibility, MICROPEARL M305
can be used in 10 to 15% concentrations with no problem of dispersion or
agglomeration. MICROPEARL M305 also contributes to the mattifying effect
of the formula by eliminating the phenomena of specular reflection.

PECOSIL PS100 Co-emulsifier with an excellent dispersing capacity with respect to mineral
powders.

Characteristics

Appearance tinted cream

pH 7.5
Viscosity >100000 approximately BROOKFIELD LV 6 rpm M4 cps
Stability Co-emulsifier with an excellent dispersing capacity with respect to mineral
powders.
Control of good pigment dispersion by spreading on an opaque film (film
with calibrated thickness)

Notes

PEG-400 : LUTROL E400 (BASF)

Dimethicone copolyol PEG-7 phosphate: PECOSIL PS100 (PHOENIX distribution by SEPPIC in some countries
ask us)
Isononyl isononanoate (distribution by SEPPIC in some countries – please ask us)
Iron oxide yellow: SICOVIT yellow 10 E172 (BASF)
Iron oxide red: SICOVIT red 30 E172 (BASF)
Iron oxide black: SICOVIT (BASF)
Titanium dioxide: Anatase titanium dioxide USP (WHITTAKER)
Cyclomethicone: DC345 (DOW CORNING)
Talc: LUZENAC 000C (LUZENAC)
Fragrance: BEAUTY X010.494 (QUEST)

23
 MATTIFYING COMPACT FOUNDATION
6945

This formula illustrates the use of MONTANOVTM 202 in anhydrous sticks.

Also it optimize the mattifying properties of MICROPEARLTM M305

Formula

A • Coco caprylate caprate 13.00 %

• Isodecyl neopentanoate 18.90 %
• Titanium Dioxyde CI/77891 12.00 %
• Isostearyl neopentanoate 5.00 %
• Iron oxide CI/77492 1.80 %
• Iron oxide CI/77491 0.75 %
• Iron oxide CI/77491 / 77492 0.22 %
• Ozokerite 8.40 %
• Cera Alba (Beewax) 10.20 %
• Coprah B caprylate caprate 5.00 %
• Polyethylene 2.40 %
• MONTANOV 202 (Arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and
TM
1.50 %
arachidylglucoside - SEPPIC)
C • MICROPEARL M305 (methyl metacrylate crosspolymer – SEPPIC)
TM
5.00 %
• MICROPEARL M310 (methyl metacrylate crosspolymer – SEPPIC)
TM
3.00 %
• LANOLTM 99 (isononyl isononanoate – SEPPIC) 5.00 %
• Aluminium starch Octenyl succinate 3.00 %
D • Phenyl trimethicone 8.00 %
• SEPILIFT DPHP (Dipalmitoyl Hydroxylproline – SEPPIC)
TM
1.00 %
• Fragrance 0.60 %
• Tocopheryl acetate 0.20 %

Procedure

Crush phase A using a bead mill and melt phase A at 85°C-90°C under mixing. Melt the poyethylene
into coparh caprylate caprate and introduce it into the phase A. Then add the other waxy components
and maintain heating and mixing until the waxes are completely melted.
Mix the ingredients of phase C and heat this phase at 85°C before adding it to the mixture A+B, whilst
maintaining mixing until the mixture becomes homogeneous, then add ingredients of phase D and
cast into moulds.
Leave the formulation to cool to room temperature then submit it to 4°C for around 10 minutes.

24
Comments

MICROPEARLTM M305 Consisting of smooth, ultra-soft microspheres that do not dry out the skin,
MICROPEARL M305 gives a powdery feel. MICROPEARL M305 also
contributes to the mattifying effect of the formula by eliminating the
phenomena of specular reflection.

MICROPEARLTM M310 Lipodispersible powder with excellent absorbent and mattifying properties.

MONTANOVTM 202 Glucolipid emulsifier in harmony with nature : its amphilic character allows
incorporation of hydrophilic active ingredients into anhydrous formulations.
Its high melting point gives cohesion to the stick.

SEPILIFTTM DPHP Plant-derived hydroxyproline "Lipovector". An anti-wrinkle ingredient, it

moisturizes the skin and reduces the appearance of visible signs of aging
(effectiveness proven in vivo).

Charactéristics

Aspect Sandy Stick

Stability Stable at RT, 45°C

Notes

Aluminium Starch Octenyl succinate : DRY FLO PC (NATIONAL STARCH)

Isostearyl neopentanoate : DUB VCI18 (STEARINERIE DUBOIS)
Isodecyl neopentanoate : DUB VCI10 (STEARINERIE DUBOIS)
Coco caprylate caprate : DUB 810C (STEARINERIE DUBOIS)
Phenyl Trimethicone : DC556 (DOW CORNING)
Polyethylene : cire A (BAERLOCHER FRANCE)
Fragrance : Bijou 110 836D (FIRMENICH)

25
 GREASY AND ACNE PRONE SKIN CARE
6711

Formula

A • MONTANOV 202 (Arachidyl alcohol/behenyl alcohol & 3.00 %

arachidylglucoside - SEPPIC)
B • Water QS 100 %
• SEPICONTROL A5 (Capryloyl Glycine and Sarcosine and 4.00 %
Cinnamomum Zeylanicum bark extract - SEPPIC)
C • Dimethicone 4.00 %
• Isohexadecane 8.00 %
D • SEPIGEL 305 (Polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffin/Laureth-7 - SEPPIC) 2.00 %
E • SEPICIDE HB (Phenoxyethanol/Methylparaben/Ethylparaben 0.50 %
/Propylparaben/Butylparaben - SEPPIC)
• Fragrance 0.20 %

Procedure

Heat B to 85°C. Add the MONTANOV 202 and stir until it is completely melted. Add C without
previously heating it. Then start the mixing head (rotor/stator). Start to cool it very slowly. At 70°C
introduce the SEPIGEL. At 60°C stop the emulsifying equipment, put the mixture under vacuum and
continue cooling whilst stirring slowly. At approximately 30°C introduce the constituents of E.

Comments

SEPICONTROL A5 An active ingredient for greasy, acne prone skins. It controls the five major
causes of this skin imbalance (bacteria proliferation, lipases, 5α-reductase,
inflammatory elastases and free radicals). The skin is cleaner, less greasy
and free of its imperfections..

MONTANOV 202 A glucolipid emulsifier of vegetable origin which produces shiny and non
greasy emulsions with a soft, light and non greasy feel. MONTANOV 202 has
been tested and found to be non-comedogenic.

SEPIGEL 305 An emulsifying and thickening agent in a liquid, very easy-to-handle form.

SEPICIDE HB A preservative system

Characteristics

Appearance Peach coloured lotion.

pH Approx 5.5.
Viscosity 17000 mPa.s BROOKFIELD LVT M4V6.
Stability stable at RT/40/50°C
stable during freeze/thaw cycles (-5°C/+40°C)
stable after centrifuging at 50°C

26
Assessment

Sensorial assessment of the formula’s efficiency (tested on 20 volunteers over 2 months) : (expressed
as a % of the panel)

Cleaner skin 71%

Less greasy skin 67%

Matt effect 67%

Reduction in white spots 50%

Softer skin 78%

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100
% of the panel

Notes

Isohexadecane (BAYER)
Dimethicone: DC200.50 (DOW CORNING)
Fragrance : PERLE 137.011 (FIRMENICH)

27
 FLASH LIGHTENING CREAM
7034

Recommended association : MONTANOV™ 202 + SIMULSOL™ 165

A synergistic effect between SEPIWHITE MSH™ and AHA
for a flash lightening in vivo efficacy

Formula

A • SIMULSOL 165 (Glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate - SEPPIC) 2.00 %

• MONTANOV 202TM (Arachidyl alcohol & behenyl alcohol & arachidyl 4.00 %
glucoside - SEPPIC)
• Cetylic alcohol 2.00 %
• Caprilic Capric triglyceride 7.00 %
• Ethyl hexyl methoxycinnamate ( Octinoxate) 7.00 %
• Octyl Salicylate 5.00 %
• Butylmethoxy dibenzoyl methane ( Avobenzone) 1.50 %
• Salicylic acid 2.00 %
• Talc 1.50 %
B • SEPIWHITE MSH (Undecylenoyl phenyl alanine – SEPPIC) 2.00 %
• Tromethamine 3.00 %
• Water / Aqua Qs 100 %
C • SEPIPLUS 400 (Polyacrylate-13 & polyisobutene & polysorbate 20 – SEPPIC) 1.00 %
• SEPICIDE HB (Phenoxyethanol & Methylparaben & Ethylparaben& 0.50 %
Propylparaben & Butylparaben - SEPPIC)
• Xanthan gum 0.20 %
D • Water / Aqua 10.00 %
• Chlorphenesin 0.10 %
• Lactic acid 3.00 %
E • Fragrance 0.07 %

Procedure

Heat the phases A and water separately at 80°C. Add the SEPIWHITE MSH and tromethamine in the hot
water phase and stir until a clear solution is obtained. Introduce phase A into phase B and start the
homogenization procedure (rotor/stator turbin is recommanded). Introduce phase C after few minutes
keeping the homogenization procedure then add phase D while homogenization is maintained for few
minutes more . Leave the emulsion to cool under moderate stirring and add phase E at around 30°C

Comments

SIMULSOLTM 165 Self emulsifying base. Can be used synergistically with any emulsifier of the
MONTANOV range in order to produce smooth and stable creams

MONTANOVTM 202 Glucolipid emulsifier in harmony with nature. It produces emulsions with a
very light, evanescent feel that are easy to apply and rapidly absorbed.
These emulsions leave the skin feeling soft and non-greasy. Their matte
finish effect helps prevent shine. MONTANOV 202 can promote liquid

28
 crystals according to the emulsion diagram, creating water reservoirs within
the emulsion to help maintain skin moisturization. In combination with the
other grades of the MONTANOV range, MONTANOV 202 can be used to
modulate the texture and flexibility of the emulsions as desired.

SEPIPLUSTM 400 A new generation of « Hydro Swelling Droplet » polymers, for improved
performance. SEPIPLUS TM
is designed to give an improved electrolyte
resistance profile. Compatible with a wide range of actives over a wide pH
range (pH 3 to 11). A thickening and emulsifying agent in a liquid form,
ready to use (no predispersion or neutralization).

SEPIWHITETM MSH A new lightening active ingredient acting through an original pathway. Alpha
MSH antagonist (“Melanotropin”), it decreases effectively the melanic
pigments by respecting the cutaneous integrity. The powdery aspect of
SEPIWHITE MSH is very well adapted to formulate powder cosmetic products.

SEPICIDE HB Preservatives

Characteristics

Appearance Pourable translucent gel

pH
Viscosity at Room temperature
Viscosity at 45°C after 1 month
Recovery of viscosity at RT (after1month at 45°C)
Stability
Around 4
115, 000 mPa.s BROOKFIELD LV4 6rpm
Around 4600 mPa.s RV7 brookfield 5rpm
Around 64000 mPa.s RV7 brookfield 5rpm
> M1 at RT and 45°C
> M1 at freeze thaw cycles –5 / +40°C
Stable when centrifuged at 3000 rpm for 20’

Notes

Xanthan gum : KELTROL T (KELCO)

Ethyl Hexyl methoxycinnamate : UVINUL MC80 ( BASF)
Octyl Salicylate : EUSOLEX OS (MERCK)
Butylmethoxy dibenzoyl methane : PARSOL 1789 (GIVAUDAN ROURE)
Fragrance : Floral Summer Ref RS9390 ( TECHNICOFLOR)
Talc : OOC (LUZENAC)

29
 RESTRUCTURING AND MOISTURIZING ANTI AGEING PROGRAM
6941

Formula

A • MONTANOV 202 (Arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and 3.50 %

arachidylglucoside - SEPPIC)
• MONTANOV 14 (Myristyl alcohol/Myristyl glucoside - SEPPIC) 1.50 %
• Isostearyl isostearate 2.00 %
• Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate 3.00 %
• Phytosqualane 8.00 %
• BR FOREST (Astrocaryum Murumuru Butter – SEPPIC) 0.20 %
• SEPILIFT DPHP (Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline – SEPPIC) 1.00 %
B • SIMULGEL EG (Sodium acrylate/acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer and 0.20 %
Isohexadecane and Polysorbate 80 - SEPPIC)
C • Aqua / Water Qsp 100%
D • AQUAXYL (Xylitylglucoside and anhydroxylitol and xylitol- SEPPIC) 3.00 %
• SILASOMA MEA (Polysilicone –14 / Ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate / 8.00 %
Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane / Water / Butylene glycol / Phenoxyethanol-
SEPPIC)
• Parfum / Fragrance 0.10 %
• Chlorphenesin 0.30 %
• SEPICIDE HB (Phenoxyethanol/Methylparaben/Ethylparaben /Propylparaben 1.00 %
/Butylparaben - SEPPIC)

Procedure

Heat the fatty phase to 80°C. Add the fatty phase to the aqueous phase and start the homogenisation.
Then, after few minutes, add the SIMULGEL EG. After 7’ (DUMEK, 2kg batch pilot), stop heating and
homogenizing and start the cooling step under moderate stirring. Around 40°C add ingredients of
phase D .

Comments

AQUAXYL New "AQUACONCEPT " technology : thanks to an harmonization of the

skin's hydrous flow, AQUAXYL TM moisturizes and restructures the skin ;
Water reserves are instantly boosted and water loss is reduced (in vitro and
in vivo proven efficacy) for a more supple and resilient skin !"

BR FOREST Vegetable butter extracted from palm tree kernels . This active ingredient is
specially adapted for the needs of dry to very dry skins. It helps to decrease
trans epidermal water loss and induces a restructuring effect. It can also be
easily added in hair care products for dry hair as it brings shine and covers
the hair shaft.

30
MONTANOV 202 Glucolipid emulsifier in harmony with nature. It produces emulsions with a
very light, evanescent feel that are easy to apply and rapidly absorbed.
These emulsions leave the skin feeling soft and non-greasy. Their matte
finish effect helps prevent shine.

MONTANOV 14 Glucolipid co-emulsifier in harmony with nature. In combination with the

other grades of the MONTANOV range or with SIMULSOL 165, it can be used
to modulate the texture and flexibility of emulsions as desired

SEPILIFT DPHP Plant-derived hydroxyproline "Lipovector". An anti-wrinkle ingredient, it

moisturizes the skin and reduces the appearance of visible signs of aging
(effectiveness proven in vivo). SEPILIFT DPHP firms skin tissues by
stimulating the contraction of the collagen fibers. It protects dermal fibers
from enzymatic lysis and exerts an anti-free radical action. SEPILIFT DPHP
has intrinsic emulsifying properties and also gives the emulsion a specific
feel.

SIMULGEL EG Thickening and emulsifying agent in liquid form. Very easy to use (no
predispersion or neutralization). SIMULGEL EG produces gel-creams with a
rich, silky texture that are easy to apply and rapidly absorbed by the skin.

SEPICIDE HB Preservatives

SILASOMA MEA Encapsulated sun filters in a rigid shell made of silicon and silk polypeptides,
in a 90% dispersion. The shell contains 50% OMC (UVB filter) and 10%
BMDBM (UVA filter). This active is totally dispersible in water and make
possible the formulation of “oil free” sun care or skin care products.
SILASOMA are targeted for sensitive skins as cutaneous penetration is
minimised. SILASOMA ME grade containing 60% OMC is also available.

Charactéristics

Aspect White cream

pH 5.5
Viscosity 23,000 mPa.s BROOKFIELD RV S4 6rpm
Stability stable at RT-40°C-50°C

Notes

Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (supplied by SEPPIC in some countries – please ask us)

Isostearyle isostearate (supplied by SEPPIC in some countries – please ask us)
Fragrance: FOREVER K465316 - QUEST
Chrophenesin - ARNAUD

31
 ANTIAGE MOISTURIZING LIFT
IN VIVO PROVEN EFFICACY
6767

Formula

A • MONTANOV 202 (Arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and 2.00 %

arachidylglucoside - SEPPIC)
• MONTANOV 68 (Cetearyl alcohol and Cetearyl glucoside - SEPPIC) 2.00 %
• Squalane 10.00 %
• Caprylic capric triglyceride 10.00 %
• SEPILIFT DPHP ( Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline - SEPPIC) 1.00 %
B • Aqua/Water QS 100 %
C • SEPIGEL 305 (Polyacrylamide and C13-14 isoparaffin and Laureth-7 - 0.70 %
SEPPIC)
D • SEPICIDE HB (Phenoxyethanol/Methylparaben/Ethylparaben 0.30 %
/Propylparaben /Butylparaben - SEPPIC)
• SEPICIDE CI (Imidazolidinyl urea - SEPPIC) 0.20 %
• Fragrance 0.30 %
• Sodium hydroxyde QS pH

Procedure

Melt A at 80-85°C in a double jacketed tank so as to avoid any overheating. Heat B at 80-85°C.
Introduce the total amount of melted phase A into B, and then start the rotor/stator emulsifying head.
Add the SEPIGEL at approximately 60°C. After a few minutes stop the rotor/stator and gradually cool to
avoid the formation of crystals from the MONTANOV 202. Add the constituents of D around 30°C.

Comments

SEPILIFT DPHP A plant derived, liposoluble hydroxyproline vehicle. It combats wrinkles,

moisturises and smoothes over the marks of time (in vivo proven efficacy).
Strengthens tissues by stimulating the contraction of collagen fibres,
protects dermal fibers against breakdown by enzymes and scavenges free
radicals. It also improves the feel and texture of the emulsion.

MONTANOV 202 A glucolipid emulsifier of vegetable origin which gives emulsions a light and
evanescent feel and makes them easily applied and rapidly absorbed. These
emulsions leave the skin soft and grease free.

MONTANOV 68 A glucolipid emulsifier of vegetable origin. When combined with MONTANOV

202 the emulsion’s texture and suppleness can be adjusted as required.

SEPIGEL 305 A thickening and emulsifying agent which comes in a liquid, very easy to use
form requiring neither preliminary dispersion nor neutralisation.

SEPICIDE HB / CI A preservative system.

32
Characteristics

Appearance White cream

pH Approximately 5.5
Viscosity 50,000 mPa.s BROOKFIELD LV S4 - 6rpm.
Stability stable at room temperature, 40 and 50°C
stable during freeze/thaw cycles (-10°C/+40°C)
stable after centrifuging at 50°C

Assessment

Sensorial assessment of the efficacy of the formula (tested on 15 volunteers, after 1 month of
treatment) : expressed as a % of the panel ;

60% : lifted smoothed skin

60% : tensing effect when applied

60% : better skin moisturisation

73,5% : clear improvement in

skin softness

66,5% : clear improvement in the skin's

73,5% of the volunteers wanted to

buy the product

0,00% 10,00% 20,00% 30,00% 40,00% 50,00% 60,00% 70,00% 80,00% 90,00% 100,00%

% of people assessing the formula containing 1% SEPILIFT DPHP

Notes

Fragrance : NINALIX 012.822 (QUEST)

33
 DEODORANT CREAM LIGHT & DRY
6682

Formula

A • MONTANOV 202 (Arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and 3.00%

arachidylglucoside - SEPPIC)
• Isononyl isononanoate 8.00%
• MICROPEARL M310 (Methyl methacrylate crosspolymer - SEPPIC) 5.00%
• SIMULGEL EG (Sodium acrylate/acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer 3.00%
and Isohexadecane and Polysorbate 80 - SEPPIC)
• LIPACIDE UG (Undecylenoyl glycine – SEPPIC) 1.00%
• LIPACIDE C8GAL (Aluminium Capryloyl glycine – SEPPIC) 2.00%
B • Water QSP 100%
• Xanthan gum 0.50%
• Talc 15.00%
• Glycerin 3.00%
C • Ethanol 90 20.00%
D • SEPICIDE HB (Phenoxyethanol/Methylparaben/Ethylparaben 1.00%
/Propylparaben/Butylparaben - SEPPIC)
• Fragrance 0.15%
• Dye qs

Procedure

Melt phase A at 80 °C. Disperse the xanthan in the water, add the talc and the glycerin, then heat B to
80 °C. Emulsify A in B. At approximately 40 °C add the ingredients of phase C, then those of phase D.

Comments

MONTANOV 202 Plant-derived emulsifying agent. Gives light and evanescent emulsions which
leave the skin with a soft, non-greasy feel. Montanov 202 promotes liquid
crystals which give the emulsion moisturizing properties.

MICROPEARL M310 Hemispherical, lipodispersible particles with powerful absorbent and anti-
shine activity.

SIMULGEL EG Thickening and emulsifying agent. Supplied in an easy-to-use liquid form

which does not require either pre-dispersion or neutralization.

LIPACIDE UG Glycine biovector. Protects the skin and protects cosmetic products against
microbial contamination. Actively inhibits the growth of the microorganisms
which cause body odor.

LIPACIDE C8GAL Glycine biovector. Provides deodorant, antimicrobial and astringent activity.

SEPICIDE HB Preservative.

34
Characteristics

Appearance Blue cream

pH Approximately 5.5
Viscosity Approximately 22,000 mPa.s BROOKFIELD LVT S4 – 6rpm
Stability Stable at RT / 40°C / 50°C and after freeze-thaw cycles –5/+40
Stable during centrifugation 20 min. at 3000 rpm at 50°C

Notes

Talc : TALC 002C (LUZENAC)

Fragrance : BASALFRESH G91.32127 (ROBERTET)
Xanthan gum: KELTROL T (KELCO)
Dye: FCD blue 1

35
 ANTIPERSPIRANT CREAM
7018

This formula illustrates the compatibility of MONTANOVTM emulsifiers

with aluminium salts

Formula

A • Water Up to
100%
• Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.50 %
B • MONTANOV 202TM (Arachidyl alcohol & behenyl alcohol & arachidyl glucoside 4.00 %
- SEPPIC)
• Cetearyl alcohol 6.00 %
C • SEPICIDETM HB (Phenoxyethanol & Methylparaben & Ethylparaben & 1.00 %
Propylparaben & Butylparaben - SEPPIC)
D • Aluminium chlorhydrate 50% 15.0 %

Procedure

Disperse the cellulose into hot water (80°C). Heat separately the fatty phase then introduce SEPICIDE
TM

HB ; add the fatty phase to the aqueous phase and homogenize for 4’ with a Silverson (rotor stator) at
4000rpm. After 2’ introduce aluminium chlorhydrate. Allow to cool under low shear.

Comments

MONTANOVTM 202 Glucolipid emulsifier in harmony with nature. Compatible with aluminium
salts.

SEPICIDE HB Preservative.

Characteristics

Appearance white emulsion

pH 4
Viscosity at room temperature 15,000 mPa.s BROOKFIELD LV4 6rpm
Viscosity after 1 month at 45°C 25,000 mPa.s BROOKFIELD LV4 6rpm
Stability > M1 at room temperature and 45°C

Notes

Aluminium chlorhydrate 50% : CHLORHYDROL (REHEIS)

Hydroxyethylcellulose : NATROSOL 250H (AQUALON)

36
Nota

The analytical specifications warranted are only those mentioned on the certificate of analysis supplied
with each delivery of the product.

Except as set forth above, SEPPIC* makes no warranties, whether express, implied or statutory, as to
the product which is the subject of this document . Without limiting the generality of the foregoing,
SEPPIC* makes no warranty of merchantability of the product or of the fitness of the product for any
particular purpose. Buyer assumes all risk and liability resulting from the use or sale of the product,
whether singly or in combination with other goods. The information set forth herein is furnished free
of charge and is based on technical data that SEPPIC* believes to be reliable. It is intended for use by
persons having technical skill and at their own discretion and risk. Since conditions of use are outside
SEPPIC*'s control, SEPPIC* makes no warranties, express or implied, and assumes no liability in
connection with any use of this information. Nothing herein is to be taken as a license to operate under
or a recommendation to infringe any patents.

* SEPPIC being : and, depending on the country :

SEPPIC S.A. SEPPIC UK Ltd SEPPIC ITALIA Srl

75, quai d’Orsay
75321 Paris cedex 07
FRANCE
Tel. : +33 (0) 1 40 62 55 55
Fax : +33 (0) 1 40 62 52 53
50 Salisbury Road Via Quarenghi 27
PO Box 338 - Hounslow 20151 Milano
TW4 6SH - ENGLAND ITALY
Tel. : +44 208 577 8800 Tel. : +39 02 38009110
Fax : +44 208 570 2106 Fax : +39 02 38009140

GIVAUDAN LAVIROTTE S.A. SEPPIC Inc. SEPPIC China

56, rue Paul Cazeneuve
BP 8344 – 69008 Lyon
FRANCE
Tel. : +33 (0) 4 78 61 55 00
Fax : +33(0) 4 72 05 60 89
30, Two Bridges Road, suite 210
Fairfield, New Jersey 07004-1530
USA
Tel. : +1 973 882 5597
Fax : +1 973 882 5178
Room 510 Jin Tai Building
58 South Mao Ming Road
Shanghai 200020 CHINA
Tel. : +86 (21) 64 66 01 49
Fax : +86 (21) 64 66 11 09

SEPPIC GmbH SEPPIC Belgium NV

ABC Tower Köln Nieuwe Weg 1

Ettore - Bugatti - Str.6-14
51149 Köln-Porz
GERMANY
Tel. : +49 (0) 220 3890 3100
Fax : +49 (0) 220 3890 3199
Haven 1053
B – 2070 Zwijndrecht
BELGIUM
Tel. : +32 3 250 3911
Fax : +32 3 250 3912

www.seppic.com

Subsidiary of the AIR LIQUIDE group

C/0922/GB/04/September 2006

37