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Pool Fundamentals
Pool Fundamentals
Pool Fundamentals
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Thank you for purchasing ―Pool Fundamentals.‖ This book is designed to help reduce the learning
curve of shooting pocket billiards. One of the major keys to learning how to shoot pool is practice,
practice, and practice. All drills in this book MUST be PRACTICED in order to master the control of
the cue ball regardless of how easy the drill may seem. Most of the top professionals practice 6 to 8
hours a day when they’re not competing. In today’s world, we don’t have that amount of time to learn.
Therefore, what you are practicing and the order in which you practice drills will help reduce your
learning curve. For example, if you’re just beginning and you just learned how to make a cut shot, you
shouldn’t move on to bank shots yet. You’ll need to know why the cue call reacts the way it does before
moving forward. Another suggestion to learning is to join a pool league and take these drills with you.
Practice them when you’re not competing. You and your friends will be amazed at how quickly you
learn the proper techniques and discover the strategy of the game.
Many of these drills are based on actual game play while a few others are from Master Instructors and
noted as such. These drills are common shots that occur frequently while shooting pool. We encourage
you to design your own drills and add to this book. As your skills progress, you’ll discover the areas
where you need additional improvement. When playing a match, knowing your percentages on
particular shots will allow you to choose the shot that’s gives you the highest percentage of winning.
Name and
description of drill.
The Chalk
Using chalk is a must for the game of pool. Using a good quality chalk, such as Master brand chalk, will help develop
consistency in your game. The purpose of chalk is to create friction between the cue stick and the cue ball. Without the
friction, you’ll have little hope controlling the cue ball. Be sure to chalk your cue after every shot or two. Doing so will help
reduce the odds of miscues and other fatal errors. Have you ever had problems drawing the cue ball? One reason may be
because of the lack of friction from your stick to the cue ball. Use fresh chalk (not one hollowed out from use).
Look at the tip of your cue stick, is it shinny and smooth? When your tip is shiny and smooth, the chalk has a hard time
sticking to it. Use a tip scuffer or shaper to lightly roughen the tip. Then gently brush the chalk onto the cue tip. Do not grind
the chalk on, or it will flatten the tip. Remember to chalk often and you’ll begin to see improvement in consistency in your
game.
You will find that you can raise the channel high for a follow shot, and drop the channel low for a draw shot.
With the palm of your hand planted securely on the table, spread your fingers wide,
this provides a stable base. The cue slides securely through a channel made by the
thumb and forefinger. The cue should move smoothly through this channel without
pulling against the skin with little to no tendency to waiver or get out of line.
Since precise placement of the cue tip on the cue ball is important, take time out to
master this base bridge. Since you will use it in 70-80% of your shots, practice it
frequently until it becomes natural. Practice it until your fingers channel the cue easily and naturally, without muscle strain.
This bridge is one of the keys to precision shooting.
When the cue ball is frozen to the cushion, use this modified rail bridge. Do not elevate the cue more than is necessary.
The Grip
A proper grip of the cue involves the use of your thumb and first three fingers. A light and
relaxed grip is key to a smooth and consistent stroke. A strong grip is one of the most common
mistakes. You can produce all the force you need with a relaxed finger grip and the correct
action in the arm. Please see diagram to the left.
Stance
The key to the stance is maintaining comfort and balance. Therefore, learn the correct position for
your body and feet, then maintain it. A good stance puts you in a balanced and comfortable
position, and centers your head over the cue in the line of your aim. Please see images below. This
permits your dominant arm to swing freely, to be extended straight. Your forward knee will be
bent more than your backward knee. Your body should remain still with the stroke.
Follow Through
Think of hitting through the cue ball. The cue should continue in a straight line until it stops at the end of the stroke
(preferably 6‖-8‖ or more beyond where the cue ball was). The position of your head and body should remain down as well.
A common mistake even in intermediate and advanced players is when the head, body, or cue come up after the stroke. This
action will often result in missing your shot. Remember, after the cue makes contact with the cue ball, your head, body, and
cue should continue in the same position.
To execute this drill, place the cue ball at the foot spot as shown. Next, place an object ball in line with the cue
ball one diamond higher. Mark a spot on the table 4-6 inches ahead of the cue ball. After you strike the cue ball,
the tip must reach the point you marked. Practice the drill several times until you are comfortable with it. Then
move on to the next drill.
*Note: The layout of the table may not always allow your cue to extend 4-6 inches past the cue ball. If the cue ball and object ball are in close proximity to
one another or if you’re shooting a finesse shot with very little speed you may only need to follow through 2 or 3 inches passed the contact point with the cue
ball.
Shot Percentages
1 of 15 = 6% 6 of 15 = 40% 11 of 15 = 73%
Top
Center
Draw
Shot Percentages
1 of 15 = 6% 6 of 15 = 40% 11 of 15 = 73%
1 2 3
For this drill, use the target supplied with this book. Place the cue ball and target as shown in position 1. Stroke the cue ball using a
very slow speed and try to place the cue ball on the target. Once you’re comfortable with that position, move the target further away
and do this drill again. Continue moving the target further away until you reach the end rail. Try to get 5 or more shots in before
reaching the bottom rail.
Mark a point for each time you land successfully in the center part of the target.
Shot Percentages
1 of 15 = 6% 6 of 15 = 40% 11 of 15 = 73%
3 2 1
Mark a point for each time you land successfully in the red part of the target.
Position 1: Completed: _____ % _____
End Rail
1 ____ 2 ____ 3 ____ 4 ____ 5 ____ 6 ____ 7 ____ 8 ____
Shot Percentages
1 of 15 = 6% 6 of 15 = 40% 11 of 15 = 73%
1 2 3
Place the target at position #1 and strike the cue ball with enough force to rebound off the end rail, back to the
head rail and come to rest on the target at position #1. Then move on to position #2 & #3.
Mark a point for each time you land successful in the red part of the target.
End Rail Position 1: Completed: _____ % _____
Shot Percentages
1 of 15 = 6% 6 of 15 = 40% 11 of 15 = 73%
1 2 3
Head Rail
*In order for the cue ball to stop at the point of contact, it must be sliding across the felt. Strike the cue ball firmly and be sure to
follow through on your stroke. If the cue ball moves forward after making contact with the object ball, then you hit the cue ball too
softly.
3 Shot Percentages
4 1 of 15 = 6% 6 of 15 = 40% 11 of 15 = 73%
1 of 15 = 6% 6 of 15 = 40% 11 of 15 = 73%
Shot Percentages
1 of 15 = 6% 6 of 15 = 40% 11 of 15 = 73%
First, use stop shot on the one ball. Stopping the cue ball after contact with the object ball requires a straight in shot and a center hit on
the cue ball. If the cue ball is at an angle to the object ball and pocket you’ll never stop it dead. The cue ball must be sliding at the
point of contact without any spin, therefore, speed plays a large factor on a stop shot.
For Top Spin hit the cue ball center but above the center horizontal center line. After contacting the object ball the cue ball will follow
the object ball. The distance it travels is determined by how hard you shoot the shot and how high you hit it.
Drawing the cue ball is the exact opposite of top spin. For this shot I recommend you chalk your cue tip after every shot. This will
reduce the possibility of a miscue.
Shot Percentages
Stop Top
1 of 15 = 6% 6 of 15 = 40% 11 of 15 = 73%
Follow
Draw Stop
Draw
You should already know by know how to shoot a stop shot. For the main purpose of this drill, you’ll need to have the stop shot mastered. Find the
point of contact between the object ball and the cue ball. Draw an imaginary line from the cue ball to the contact point of the object ball. Then draw
a second line perpendicular to the first at the point of contact. This is the tangent line. The only way to have the cue ball to travel along this line is to
shoot a stop shot. The cue ball must be sliding to the point of contact. If the cue ball develops a natural forward roll, it will diverge slightly forward
off the tangent line. Practice this drill using a center ball hit on the cue ball to have it traveling along the same line after every shot. Try this same
drill but from longer distances. If you continue to use the same speed as in position 1, you may notice that the cue ball moves forward from the
tangent line after contact. This is because the cue ball has picked up some forward roll. Remember that the cue ball must be sliding to the point of
contact with the object ball in order for it to remain on the tangent line. Therefore, the greater the distance between the cue ball and object ball, the
harder the cue ball must be hit.
Shot Percentages
1 of 15 = 6% 6 of 15 = 40% 11 of 15 = 73%
Stop
Follow
Stop
Draw
Then shoot the same shot using a medium speed. You may notice that the cue ball remains on the tangent line a
bit longer than it does at a slow speed. This is an important thing to remember when you want to use this shot.
Practice at a medium speed for a rack of balls the try a hard speed.
Completed: _____ % _____
Shot Percentages
1 of 15 = 6% 6 of 15 = 40% 11 of 15 = 73%
Follow
Stop
Medium
Shot Percentages
Stop
Draw
Shot Percentages
Stop Stop
Follow
Draw 1 of 15 = 6% 6 of 15 = 40% 11 of 15 = 73%
Draw
Stop Follow
Stop
Follow
Draw
A variation on this drill is to roll a dice and go for position on the numbered ball shown on the dice.
*This drill can be found on ―How To Play Pool Right‖ with Jerry Briesath video produced by the BCA. Jerry Briesath is a BCA Master Instructor. We highly
recommend the video for beginning players as he teaches you about cue grip, stance, stroke, and basic English.
Shot Percentages
D
1 of 15 = 6% 6 of 15 = 40% 11 of 15 = 73%
Shot Percentages
1 of 15 = 6% 6 of 15 = 40% 11 of 15 = 73%
Shot Percentages
1 of 15 = 6% 6 of 15 = 40% 11 of 15 = 73%
Shot Percentages
1 of 15 = 6% 6 of 15 = 40% 11 of 15 = 73%
1 2
2 of 15 = 13% 7 of 15 = 47% 12 of 15 = 80%
5 6
Shot Percentages
1 of 15 = 6% 6 of 15 = 40% 11 of 15 = 73%
Break from each of the three positions below, and evaluate the table. After each break, write down how many balls you pocketed, how many stopped
on the head (breaking) side of the table, and how many clusters of balls. Determine what position you break best from, and work on improving your
breaks from that position.
Shot Percentages
1 of 15 = 6% 6 of 15 = 40% 11 of 15 = 73%
1 2 3
8-Ball Break & 9-Ball
Break Layouts
8-Ball Break Layouts
After breaking, mark the results before your next shot.
Where did you break from:
_______________ _____________
_______________ _____________
_______________ _____________
Scratches:
_______________ _____________
Clusters:
_______________ _____________
Solids or Stripes?
_______________ _____________
_______________ _____________
_______________ _____________
_______________ _____________
Scratches:
_______________ _____________
Clusters:
_______________ _____________
Solids or Stripes?
_______________ _____________
_______________ _____________
_______________ _____________
_______________ _____________
Scratches:
_______________ _____________
Clusters:
_______________ _____________
Solids or Stripes?
_______________ _____________
_______________ _____________
_______________ _____________
_______________ _____________
Scratches:
_______________ _____________
Clusters:
_______________ _____________
Solids or Stripes?
_______________ _____________
Recommended Books
Precision Pool Your guide to mastering key skills, shots, and strategies; Gary Kanov & Shari
Stauch; Human Kinetics; Copyright © 1999.
Pool Players Edge; Gerry Kanov & Shari Stauch; Human Kinetics; Copyright © 2004.
Byrne’s New Standard Book of Pool and Billiards; Robert Byrne; Harcourt Books;
Copyright © 1998.
Recommended DVDs
BANK SHOT. A shot in which the object ball is driven to one or more cushions before it is pocketed;
incidental contact as a ball moves along and adjacent to a cushion does not qualify as a cushion or
bank. It is not an obvious shot and must be called in games requiring called shots. (See kick shot)
BLIND DRAW. A method used to determine pairings or bracketing of players in tournaments that
assures totally random placement or pairing of contestants.
BREAKING VIOLATION. A violation of special rules which apply only to the opening break shot of
certain games. Unless specified in individual game rules, a breaking violation is not a foul.
BRIDGE. The hand configuration that holds and guides the shaft-end of the cue during play. (See
mechanical bridge)
BUTT OF CUE. The larger end of a cue, opposite the tip. On a two-piece cue, the butt extends up to
the joint.
CALL SHOT. Requirement that a player designate, in advance of each shot, the ball to be made and
the pocket into which it will be made. In calling the shot, it is NEVER necessary to indicate details
such as the number of cushions, banks, kisses, caroms, etc. The rules of "Bank Pool" are an
exception.
CALLED BALL. The ball the player has designated to be pocketed on a shot.
CALLED POCKET. The pocket which a player has designated a ball to be shot.
CAROM. To bounce off or glance off an object ball or cushion; a shot in which the cue ball bounces
off one ball into another is termed a carom.
CAROM, SCORING. Contact by the cue ball with object balls, the bottle or cushions in such a way
that a legal score is made, according to specific game rules.
CHALK. A dry, slightly abrasive substance that is applied to the cue tip to help assure a non-slip
contact between the cue tip and the cue ball.
COMBINATION. Shot in which the cue ball first strikes a ball other than the one to be pocketed, with
the ball initially contacted in turn striking one or more other balls in an effort to score.
COMBINATION ON. Two or more balls positioned in such a way that a ball can be driven into a
called pocket with a combination shot; often called a "dead combo" or an "on combo."
CONTACT POINT. The precise point of contact between the cue ball and the object ball when the
cue ball strikes the object ball.
CORNER-HOOKED. (Pocket games, Snooker) When the corner of a pocket prevents shooting the
cue ball in a straight path directly to an object ball, the cue ball is corner-hooked; same as angled.
COUNT, THE. The running score at any point during a player's inning in games where numerous
points are scored successively.
CROSS CORNER. Term used to describe a bank shot that will rebound from a cushion and into a
corner pocket.
CROSS SIDE. Term used to describe a bank shot that will rebound from a cushion and into a side
pocket.
CUE. Tapered device, usually wooden, used to strike the cue ball to execute carom or pocket billiard
shots. (Also called cue stick)
CUE BALL. The white, unnumbered ball that is always struck by the cue during play.
CUE BALL IN HAND. Cue ball may be put into play anywhere on the playing surface.
CUE BALL IN HAND BEHIND THE HEAD STRING. Cue ball may be put into play anywhere
between the head string and the cushion on the head end of the table not in contact with an object
ball.
CUE TIP. A piece of specially processed leather or other fibrous or pliable material attached to the
shaft end of the cue that contacts the cue ball when a shot is executed.
CUSHION. The cloth-covered rubber which borders the inside of the rails on carom and pocket
billiard tables; together the cushions form the outer perimeter of the basic playing surface.
CUT SHOT. A shot in which the cue ball contacts the object ball to one side or the other of full
center, thus driving it in a direction other than that of the initial cue ball path.
DEAD BALL. A cue ball stroked in such a manner that virtually all of the speed and/or spin of the
cue ball is transferred to the object ball, the cue ball retaining very little or none after contact.
DEAD BALL SHOT. A shot in which a dead ball stroke is employed; often called a kill shot, because
of the relative lack of cue ball motion after contact with the object ball.
DRAW SHOT. A shot in which the cue ball is struck below center, and the resulting back spin causes
the cue ball to return towards the player after full contact with an object ball.
DROP POCKETS. Type of pockets with no automatic return of the balls to the foot end of the table;
balls must be removed manually.
DOUBLE ELIMINATION. A tournament format in which a player is not eliminated until he has
sustained two match losses.
DOUBLE HIT. A shot on which the cue ball is struck twice by the cue tip on the same stroke.
DOUBLE ROUND ROBIN. A tournament format in which each contestant in a field plays each of the
other players twice.
ENGLISH. Side spin applied to the cue ball by striking it off center; used to alter the natural roll of the
cue ball and/or the object ball.
FEATHER SHOT. A shot in which the cue ball barely touches or grazes the object ball; an extremely
thin cut.
FERRULE. A piece of protective material (usually plastic, horn or metal) at the end of the cue shaft,
onto which the cue tip is attached.
FOLLOW SHOT. A shot in which the cue ball is struck above center and the resulting forward spin
causes the cue ball to roll forward after contact with an object ball.
FOLLOW-THROUGH. The movement of the cue after contact with the cue ball through the area
previously occupied by the cue ball.
FOOT OF TABLE. The end of a carom or pocket billiard table at which the balls are racked or
positioned at the start of a game.
FOOT SPOT. The point on the foot end of the table where imaginary lines drawn between the center
diamonds of the short rails and the second diamonds of the long rails intersect.
FOOT STRING. A line on the foot end of the table between the second diamonds of the long rails,
passing through the foot spot. The foot string is never drawn on the table, and has no use in play.
FORCE. The power applied on the stroke to the cue ball, which may result in distortion and altering
of natural angles and action of the ball.
FORCE DRAW. A shot with extreme follow, usually directly at and then "through" an object ball.
FORCE FOLLOW. A follow shot with extreme overspin applied to the cue ball, with the term
generally used in reference to shots in which the cue ball is shot directly at and then "through" an
object ball, with a pronounced hesitation or stop before the overspin propels the cue ball forward in
the general direction of the stroke.
FOUL. An infraction of the rules of play, as defined in either the general or the specific game rules.
(Not all rule infractions are fouls.) Fouls result in a penalty, also dependent on specific game rules.
FREE BREAK. An opening break shot in which a wide spread of the object balls may be achieved
without penalty or risk. Free breaks are detailed in individual games rules.
FULL BALL. Contact of the cue ball with an object ball at a contact point on a line bisecting the
centers of the cue ball and object ball.
GAME. The course of play that starts when the referee has finished racking the balls, and ends at the
conclusion of a legal shot which pockets the last required ball. In 14.1 continuous, a game lasts
several racks.
GAME BALL. The ball which, if pocketed legally, would produce victory in a game.
GRIP. The manner in which the butt of the cue is held in the hand.
GULLY TABLE. A table with pockets and a return system that delivers the balls as they are
pocketed to a collection bin on the foot end of the table.
HANDICAPPING. Modifications in the scoring and/or rules of games to enable players of differing
abilities to compete on more even terms.
HEAD OF TABLE. The end of a carom or pocket billiard table from which the opening break is
performed; the end normally marked with the manufacturer's nameplate.
HEAD SPOT. The point on the head of the table where imaginary lines drawn between the center
diamonds of the short rails and the second diamonds of the long rails intersect.
HEAD STRING. A line on the head end of the table between the second diamonds of the long rails,
passing through the head spot.
HOLD. English which stops the cue ball from continuing the course of natural roll it would take after
having been driven in a certain direction.
INNING. A turn at the table by a player, and which may last for several racks in some pocket games.
IN HAND BEHIND THE HEAD STRING. See cue ball in hand behind the head string.
JAW. The slanted part of the cushion that is cut at an angle to form the opening from the bed of the
table into the pocket.
JAWED BALL. Generally refers to a ball that fails to drop because it bounces back and forth against
the jaws of a pocket.
JOINT. On two-piece cues, the screw-and-thread device, approximately midway in the cue, that
permits it to be broken down into two separate sections.
JUMP SHOT. A shot in which the cue ball or object ball is caused to rise off the bed of the table.
JUMPED BALL. A ball that has left and remained off the playing surface as the result of a stroke; a
ball that is stroked in a manner which causes it to jump over another ball.
KEY BALL. (14.1 Continuous) The 14th ball of each rack; called the key ball because it is so critical
in obtaining position for the all important first (or break) shot of each reracking of the balls.
KICK SHOT. A shot in which the cue ball banks off a cushion(s) prior to making contact with an
object ball or scoring.
KISS SHOT. A shot in which more than one contact with object balls is made by the cue ball; for
example, the cue ball might kiss from one object ball into another to score the latter ball. Shots in
which object balls carom off one or more other object balls to be pocketed. (Also called carom shots)
KITCHEN. A slang term used to describe the area of the table between the head string and the
cushion on the head end of the table. (Also called the area above the head string)
LAG FOR BREAK. Procedure used to determine starting player of game. Each player shoots a ball
from behind the head string to the foot cushion, attempting to return the ball as closely as possible to
the head cushion.
LONG. Usually refers to a ball which, due to english and speed, travels a path with wider angles than
those that are standard for such a ball if struck with natural english and moderate speed.
LONG STRING. A line drawn from the center of the foot cushion to the foot spot (and beyond if
necessary) on which balls are spotted.
LOT. Procedures used, not involving billiard skills, to determine starting player or order of play.
Common methods used are flipping coins, drawing straws, drawing cards, or drawing peas or pills.
MASSE SHOT. A shot in which extreme english is applied to the cue ball by elevating the cue butt at
an angle with the bed of the table of anywhere between 30 and 90 degrees. The cue ball usually
takes a curved path, with more curve resulting from increasing cue stick elevation.
MATCH. The course of play that starts when the players are ready to lag and ends when the deciding
game ends.
MECHANICAL BRIDGE. A grooved device mounted on a handle providing support for the shaft of
the cue during shots difficult to reach with normal bridge hand. Also called a crutch or rake.
MISCUE. A stroke which results in the cue tip contact with cue ball being faulty. Usually the cue tip
slides off the cue ball without full transmission of the desired stroke. The stroke usually results i a
sharp sound and discoloration of the tip and/or the cue ball at the point of contact.
NATURAL ENGLISH. Moderate sidespin applied to the cue ball that favors the direction of the cue
ball path, giving the cue ball a natural roll and a bit more speed than a center hit.
NIP DRAW. A short, sharp stroke, employed when a normal draw stroke would result in a foul due to
drawing the cue ball back into the cue tip.
OBJECT BALLS. The balls other than the cue ball on a shot.
OBJECT BALL, THE. The particular object ball being played on a shot.
OPEN BREAK. The requirement in certain games that a player must drive a minimum of four object
balls out of the rack to the cushions in order for the shot to be legal.
POSITION. The placement of the cue ball on each shot relative to the next planned shot. Also called
shape.
POWDER. Talc or other fine, powdery substance used to facilitate free, easy movement of the cue
shaft through the bridge.
POWER DRAW SHOT. Extreme draw applied to the cue ball. (See force draw.)
PUSH SHOT. A shot in which the cue tip maintains contact with the cue ball beyond the split second
allowed for a normal and legally stroked shot.
RACE. Pre-determined number of games necessary to win a match or set of games. For example, a
match that is the best 11 out of 21 games is called a race to 11, and ends when one player has won
11 games.
RACK. The triangular equipment used for gathering the balls into the formation required by the game
being played.
RAILS. The top surface of the table, not covered by cloth, from which the cushions protrude toward
the playing surface. The head and foot rails are the short rails on those ends of the table; the right
and left rails are the long rails, dictated by standing at the head end of the table and facing the foot
end.
REVERSE ENGLISH. Sidespin applied to the cue ball, that favors the opposite direction of the
natural cue ball path - i.e. inside english.
ROUND ROBIN. A tournament format in which each contestant plays each of the other players once.
RUNNING ENGLISH. Sidespin applied to the cue ball which causes it to rebound from an object ball
or a cushion at a narrower angle and at a faster speed than it would if struck at the same speed and
direction without english.
RUN. The total of consecutive scores, points or counts made by a player in one inning. The term is
also used to indicate the total number of full short-rack games won without a missed shot in a match
or tournament.
SAFETY. Defensive positioning of the balls so as to minimize the opponent's chances to score. The
nature and rules concerning safety play are decidedly different in specific games. Player's inning ends
after a safety play.
SHAFT. The thinner part of a cue, on which the cue tip is attached. On a two-piece cue, the shaft
extends from the cue tip to the joint.
SHOT. An action that begins at the instant the cue tip contacts the cue ball, and ends when all balls in
play stop rolling and spinning.
SHOT CLOCK. Any timing device used to gauge the time limit in which a player is allowed to play a
shot. The timing device must have at least the functions of a stop watch: reset to zero, start, and stop.
A simple wrist watch without timing functions is not sufficient.
SHORT. Usually refers to a ball which, due to english and stroke, travels a path with narrower angles
than those for a ball struck without english.
SINGLE ELIMINATION. A tournament format in which a single loss eliminates a player from the
competition.
SPOT. The thin, circular piece of cloth or paper glued onto the cloth to indicate the spot locality (i.e..,
head spot, center spot, foot spot); also an expression to describe a handicap.
SPOT SHOT. Player shoots a ball on the foot spot with the cue ball in hand behind the head string.
SPOTTING BALLS. Replacing balls to the table in positions as dictated by specific game rules.
STOP SHOT. A shot in which the cue ball stops immediately upon striking the object ball.
SUCCESSIVE FOULS. Fouls made on consecutive strokes by the same player, also called
consecutive fouls.
THROW SHOT. 1. A shot in which english alters the path of the object ball.
2. A combination shot of frozen or near frozen object balls in which to rubbing of the first ball across
the second ball pulls the shot away from the line joining the centers of the two balls.
TRIANGLE. The triangular device used to place the balls in position for the start of most games.
Appendix
Target
Please print and cut out target for drill 2
Pool Fundamentals
When a good team struggles, they always go back to the basics, and it’s the same in pool.
Whether, you’re new to pool, or have been playing for years, learning the basics and
reviewing the basics periodically, will be a key to your success. These 15 drills will help
you with the fundamentals, and give you the foundation to build your mastery of pool. This
book includes detailed diagrams along with a worksheet to record your results. The
following drills are Included:
Follow-Through
Speed Control
Stop Shot
Follow (Top Spin) Shot
Draw Shot
Tangent Lines
Cut Shot
Aiming
8-Ball Break