Journal of the Textile Institute Transactions

ISSN: 1944-7027 (Print) (Online) Journal homepage: http://www.tandfonline.com/loi/jtit20

25—FABRIC ANALYSIS—THE CONTRACTION OF

WARP AND WEFT

Hiram Hartley

To cite this article: Hiram Hartley (1926) 25—FABRIC ANALYSIS—THE CONTRACTION

OF WARP AND WEFT, Journal of the Textile Institute Transactions, 17:5, T254-T258, DOI:
10.1080/19447022608661382

To link to this article: http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/19447022608661382

Published online: 11 Dec 2008.

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 T254

25—FABRIC ANALYSIS—THE CONTRACTION OF WARP AND

WEFT
By HIRAM HARTLEY
(Bradford Technical College)

INTRODUCTION
An analysis ui a woven fabric is an attempt to ascertain from a pattern
of a finished material the particulars requisite for its reproduction on the
loom. Such analysis calls for the application of considerable skill and
extensive knowledge on the part of the analyst. The influence of the
processes through which the fabric has passed must be appreciated and
allowed for if a reasonably accurate analysis is to be secured. Certain par-
ticulars, such as counts of warp and weft, threads and picks per inch, finished
weight per yard, and the weave emplo3^ed can be obtained without difficulty
from the sample provided. Before, however, an}* of these can be converted
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into "loom" particulars, the contraction of the warp threads and weft picks
must be ascertained. This paper describes a machine designed to measure
this contraction, and the method of application of the machine.
CONTILACTION OF WARP AND WEFT
The contraction of the warp and weft threads is due to two chief causes—
(1) The bending of the threads due to their interlacing when woven.
(2) The shrinkage and movement of the fibres due to the processes of
djTing and finishing, though this is much less marked in cotton
yarns than in woollen and worsted yarns.
In measuring the contraction, or actuall}' the extension of warp and
weft, the method generally employed is to stamp out a piece of the finished
fabric, say 3 in. x 3 in., to pull out several threads of warp and weft, and by
placing them on a fiat rule to draw out the contraction with the finger and
thumb, and to measure the extension as accurately as possible. The
objections to this method are—
(1) That the extension of the full 3 in. can only be measured with part
of the thread held by the fingers and accuracy of reading is sacrificed.
(2) That the tension applied to each thread must vary owing to the
human element.
(3) That the tension applied to yarns of fairly soft twist may cause
fibre slip and thereby false elongation of the yam.
(4) That the apphcation of a steady even tension to all the threads
tested is impossible.
When contraction has been arrived at by this or some other method, the
following "loom particulars" can be obtained—
(a) Threads per inch in loom, and the reed width, by direct proportion
between the finished particulars and the loom particulars, as influenced
by the measured contraction of the weft threads.
(b) Similarly the picks per inch in loom, and the length of the grey
cloth can be calculated from the contraction of the warp threads.
Thus practically all these particulars depend for their verity on the
accuracy with which contraction of warp and weft may be measured.
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FIG.
:

FIG.
I

2
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/
-
^
'

face pat;(
 2^—Fabric Analysis—The Contraction of Warp and Weft—Hartley T255

NEW MACHINE FOR MEASURING THE EXTENSION OF YARN

This machine* is constructed with two pairs of jaws—A. movable, and
B, fixed (Fig. 2). The fLxcd jaws B are made rigid at one end of the machine
and a fixture with the base C. The latter is a flat, slotted plate of J in.
material, and is graduated on the edge in inches. Moving along the base-
plate is the body of the machine D, containing the travelling jaws A, which
slide between two slide bars by the aid of a knurled hand-screw E at the
end of the body, this also running in guides. The hand-screw E can be
rotated in either direction according to the required movement of the sliding
jaws. The body of the machine D can also be locked to the base C by
a small hand-screw E^, thus ensuring that when the machine is set at the
beginning of the test no movement of the body is possible.
In the body of the machine is a small slot -jjj in. wide x i j in. long, which
allows for the travel of a small indieator-point G, the latter being fixed to
the slide holding the moving jaws and registering any extension of the
material on a fine graduated scale F on the side of the machine. The jaws of
the machine are of the quick-release type, in order to obviate any possibility
of the material fouling the jaws in fixing. Both A and B when released are
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automatically kept open by means of two small springs which are com-
pressed into recesses whe^n the jaws are closed. The latter are tightened
and released by small thumb-screws H, and hold material varying in diameter
from -j\j to ,uV,j of an inch without possibility of shpping when tension
is applied.
In order to ensure accuracy in the reading of the indicator a locking
device consisting of a knurled peg J (Figs. I and 2), registers through the
top of the body of the machine and through the sliding plate containing
the travelling jaws A when the indicator G is at zero. This peg J is kept
in position until extension of the material is commenced.

METHOD OF EMPLOYING THE MACHINE

The method of using the machine is believed to be quite different from
that employed in connection with other machines for the same purpose.
The most important point is that the material, when held by the jaws prior
to extension, should be at exactly the normal tension of the threads of the
finished cloth. If the threads are first removed from the cloth and then
placed in the jaws the tension is disturbed. The use of tension weights
ensures similar tension in a series of comparative tests but obviously cannot
apply the tension present in the finished fabric. To obviate this the following
procedure was adopted—If the size of the pattern permitted it (although
any size can be tested) a piece of the material 3f in. wide was cut. Warp
threads were then removed from this sample equally at both sides until
exactly 3 in. of cloth remained with a fringe of § in. of weft at either edge,
as shown in pattern in machine in Fig. i. The machine was then set to
test 3 in. of material by sliding the body along the slotted base until its
left edge was exactly over 3 in. on the base scale. In this position there is
exactly 3 in. between the inside edges of the two jaws when the indicator G
is at zero. The body is then locked to the base by means of the small hand-
screw E^ to obviate any movement. The peg J is also inserted to keep
the indicator G at zero. About J in. of the fringe of the pattern (pick-wise)

* Provisionally patented.
 T256 25—Fabric Analysis—The Contraction of Warp and Weft—Hartley

is then inserted in the fixed jaws B, the latter gripping just up to the edge
of the cloth. A similar quantity of weft fringe is then inserted in the mov-
able jaws A, which also grip to the edge of the cluth (Fig. i). Held between
the edges of the jaws there is now exactly 3 in. of weft at the tension in the
finished cloth, the picks lying side by side exactly as in tht- fabric. By
means of a dissecting needle these weft picks (which may number from, say,
6 to 30, according to the sett of the cloth) are then separated from the
intersecting warp threads. No difficulty is experienced with this part of
the procedure as a rule, but if milled cloths are being tested, the body of the
machine can be moved inwards, once the jaws are clamped, to assist in the
dissection. When the warp has been drawn away a number of weft picks
are left firmly held between the two jaws (see Fig. 2), and when the body
of the machine is reset at 3 in. on the base scale (if it has been moved), the
tension present in the finished fabric has been restored.
The extension of these weft picks may now be tested. The peg J is
removed and the knurled hand-screw rotated in a clock-wise direction,
causing the travelling jaws A to move slowly away from the fixed jaws B,
the extension being registered by the indicator G. The tension on the material
should be tested frequently by lightly tapping with the forefinger until the
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stage is reached where the tension approximates to that imposed by the

temples in the loom during weaving. The extension is then read on the scale.
When little or no fibre movement has taken place during finishing, as is the
case with cotton, art silk, linen, &c., the proportion between the 3 in. tested
and 3 in. plus the extension indicated by the machine, is the proportion
between the ends per i in. in loom and the ends per i in. finished. When
fibre movement has taken place due allowance must be made for this as
indicated subsequently. The number of threads or picks tested at once is
immaterial, single threads or any number can be utilised, but a bulk test is
preferable, when the extension indicated is the average of the threads tested.
One test only for each fabric is necessary When testing material^ such as
rayoh, single mohair, single longwool, &c., the extension cannot possibly
be ascertained by testing individual threads either by hand or mechanically,
as the application of tension causes the fibres to slip and the thread pulls
apart, but by testing, say, 20 threads together in the manner indicated,
sufficient strength is present in the combined threads to enable an accurate
reading to be made.

EXPERIMENTAL
A series of cotton, artificial silk, and angola fabrics were first tested.
No fibre movement or shrinkage would be present in these cloths with the
result that the readings given by the apparatus should, if accurate, give the
actual loom particulars for the fabric concerned. In each case the cloths
had been made by the writer so that the loom particulars actually employed
were available for the purpose of comparison. The weft was tested in each
pattern to arrive at the threads per i in. in the reed in preference to testing
the warp for the picks per i in., as the latter is always liable to variation
from the number intended to be woven, to that actually put into the cloth,
owing to the setting-up of the loom and other factors, whereas the threads
per I in. in the reed are known and cannot vary. A variety of styles was
employed in order to test the machine under different conditions. The
results were as shown on following page.
 25—Fabric Analysis—The Contraction of Warp and Weft—Hartley T257

Table I.
Cotton, Artificial Silk, and Angola Yarns
Ends per 1 in.
Material Warp Ends per Ex- in Reed
Style and or Inch Length tension » • , Cal-
Count Weft Finished Tested to -^'-'•"a' culated
Figd. Lining ... 2/40 Cotton Wtft 74 3' ^^^ . 1 1 11 71-0
Shaded Lining 2/80 Cotton J 1 128 3" '17" 120 119-3
Whipcord
Skirting ... 2/30 Cotton 11 131 3' •l\ - "
»»;; .J
110 110 3
Figd. Lining ... 120 den. Art.
Silk t » 124 3» ^'ll« 120 119-6
Tapestry 1 5 Cotton 1 p 59 3" 56 56-6
Poplin 2/80 Cotton t 1 44 3" •1 1 !l "
•^1! 1
40 40-0
Export Dress
Fabric 2/80 Cotton ... 1 • 124 3* *^8 120 119-0
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Whipcord Suit 19 sks. Angola ... Fl 104 3' 96 95-3

It will be seen that the results obtained were strikingly accurate. In

each case the "threads per inch finished" was the average of four tests.
The extension was read to ,^,M of an inch where necessary. The machine
can, therefore, be relied upon to give direct results where no fibre movement
has taken place.
The second series of tests was made upon worsted fabrics carrying a
"clear" finish. In this case slight fibre movement was anticipated.
Table II.
Worsted Yarns—•*Clear Finish"
Ends per 1 in.
Material Warp Ends per Ex- in Reed
Style and or inch Length tension . , , Cal-
Count Weft Finished Tested to -^^^^^'-i' culuted
Whipcord Suit 2/36 Botany ... Weft 112 3" 96 95-8
Tropical Suit ... 2/48 Botany ... 80 :v' 3-" 68 68-0
Tropical Suit ... 2/48 Botany ' * * If 68 3" [\^ A" 60 59-3
Twillette 2/48 Botany 95 84 844
Plain Weave
Suit 2/48 Botany 54 2- --a 1 48 47-()
2/2 Twill Suit 2/32 Botany 70 3" 60 59-0

It was found that the fibre movement was not sufficient to affect
appreciably the accuracy of the readings. When tension approximating
to that present in the loom was applied to the weft, the extension recorded
was such that direct loom particulars could be calculated. Botany fabrics
were tested in each case, as these were the fabrics where fibre movement
was most likely to be present. In the case of cross-bred cloths, the possibility
of shrinkage affecting the readings is considerably minimised.
J
 T258 Fabric Analysis—The Contraction of Warp and Weft—Hartley

Half-milled, Milled, and Piece-dyed Fabrics

When testing fabrics of these types the ftbre movement is sufficient,
owing to treatment during finishing, to affect materially the accuracy of the
reading supplied by the machine, and due alluwance must be made for this
factor. The question of such allowance has already had some consideration*
and interesting results have been tabulated. In actual mill practice, before
measuring the extension of an "unknown" pattern, a "known" fabric similar
in quality and, if possible, in stiiicture, could be tested on the machine,
and the percentage difference between the reading obtained and the actual
loom particulars thus calculated. The "unknown" fabric would then be
tested on the machine and a similar percentage allowance made on the reading
then given. Accurate loom particulars would thus be obtainable.
The subject is one, however, which affords a large field for further in-
vestigation, and the use of an accurate and suitable machine in conjunction
with carefully compiled tables showing the percentage allowance to be made
on the machine's readings, according to the type of fabric being tested, would
result in analysis of an accuracy far in advance of that which now obtains.

The writer wishes to express his sincere appreciation of the assistance

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and advice rendered him by Mr. R. B. Brigham, of Leeds, in regard to the

mechanical details involved.
* "Analysis of Woven Fabrics," Barker and Midgley.

Received for publication, 26lh February 1926.