PLANS PROJECTS JIGS TIPS PAT T E R N S

DECEMBER/JANUARY 2002
Vol.4, No. 6

Build an
Office
Bookcase
Make Your Own
Biscuit Joiner Jig
Inlay in Minutes!
Turn a
Textured Platter
Make a
Plant Stand
FREE Intarsia Pattern $3.99
NEW! Jig Contest
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www.canadianwoodworking.com
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VOLUME 4, NO. 6
CONTENTS
DD EE CC EE M
M BB EE RR // JJ AA NN UU AA RR YY 22 00 00 22
EDITORS
PAUL FULCHER, LINDA FULCHER

WRITERS
JOHN CRYDERMAN, CARL DUGUAY,
HANK ETHIER, REA GIBSON,
GARNET HALL, MARY-ANN JACK-BLEACH,
JIM KOUDYS, GRAHAM MCCULLOCH, FEATURES
LOU PEETERS, DANNY PROULX,
PAUL ROSS, STEVE SIDDALL, 6 TIGER LILY
MICHEL THERIAULT, CHESTER VAN NESS BY GARNET HALL

ADVERTISING 9 OFFICE BOOKCASE

PAUL FULCHER, LINDA FULCHER BY DANNY PROULX

CIRCULATION 15 BISCUIT JOINER JIG

NEWS STANDS ACROSS CANADA,
BY LOU PEETERS
SUBSCRIPTIONS VIA CANADIAN POST
CORPORATION, PARTICIPATING 17 A MARRIAGE OF TEXTURES
WOODSHOWS ACROSS CANADA, CANADIAN BY PAUL ROSS 9
WOODWORKING ADVERTISERS AND
WOODSHOW EXHIBITORS & COMPETITIONS 19 THREE-WAY CROSS PUZZLE
BY REA GIBSON
CANADIAN WOODWORKING
IS PUBLISHED SIX TIMES PER YEAR:
FEBRUARY/MARCH; APRIL/MAY;
21 SPINNING STRAW INTO GOLD
BY HANK ETHIER
JUNE/JULY; AUGUST/SEPTEMBER;
OCTOBER/NOVEMBER;
DECEMBER/JANUARY 24 ARTIST FEATURE
BY MARY-ANN JACK-BLEACH
SUBSCRIPTIONS
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ATLANTIC CANADA $17.99, USA $25.99, BY STEVE SIDDALL
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SINGLE COPY $3.99 + GST = $4.27 24
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OVERSEAS ORDERS ADD $5.00 BY CHESTER VAN NESS
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G.S.T. REG. #120447560 40 BOOK REVIEW: THE ROUTER BOOK
ISSN #1497-0023 BY MICHEL THERIAULT
MAIL PUBLICATION AGREEMENT #40035186
COPYRIGHT 2001 BY CANADIAN WOODWORKING
MAGAZINE DIV. OF VISION QUEST INCORPORATED

CANADIAN WOODWORKING MAGAZINE

RR#3 BURFORD, ON N0E 1A0
TEL. (519)449-2444 FAX (519)449-2445
email:letters@canadianwoodworking.com
website: www.canadianwoodworking.com
REPRINTING IN WHOLE OR PART IS FORBIDDEN EXCEPT
DEPARTMENTS
BY WRITTEN PERMISSION FROM THE PUBLISHERS. 3 EDITORS LETTERS
4 DEAR EDITORS
Please exercise caution when working with any tools or machinery.
Follow common safety rules and precautions as outlined in any manuals 14 QUESTIONS & ANSWERS
related to the equipment being used. This publication is sold with the
understanding that (1) the authors and editors are not responsible for the 23 TOOL TEST
results of any actions taken on the basis of information in this publication, 29 CANADIAN COMPETITIONS
27
nor for any errors or omissions; and (2) the publisher is not engaged in
rendering professional advice/services. The publisher, and the authors 33 COMING EVENTS
and editors, expressly disclaim all and any liability to any person, whether a
purchaser of this publication or not, in respect of anything and of the 35 TOOL REVIEW
consequences of anything done or omitted to be done by any such person
in reliance, whether whole or partial, upon the whole or any part of the
contents of this publication. If advice or other expert assistance is required, Cover photo by
the services of a competent professional person should be sought.
Michael Bowie from Lux Photography, Ottawa

Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com CANADIAN WOODWORKING 1

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editorsletters
LINDA FULCHER
I Y
was delighted to read Mary-Ann Jack-Bleach’s article on
Lewis Cohen in this issue and to learn that, in addition to
carving and instrument making, Lewis has an interest in
cooking. I experienced a process, as I learned to cook,
which I now realize also occurs in woodworking. This
realization came as I was standing in a circle of
woodworkers at the Woodstock Wood Show.
This particular group consisted of regular members from our
forum, who had arranged to meet at the Kootur Lumber booth. The
conversation turned to plans and patterns and each woodworker
shared their use of them. While many woodworkers find plans and
patterns invaluable in the beginning, some of the woodworkers in
the circle had reached a point where they had followed so many
plans, and done so much woodworking, that they could just look
at a project and then do it!
When I was learning to cook, if I didn’t have a recipe to follow,
the results could be quite interesting, but not necessarily
delectable. Today, I can (after many years of using recipes)
often cook and all I need is ingredients. I have the
experience to put them together. Sometimes, however,
even the simplest knowledge can fade from my mind.
For example, while I attended school away from
home, I would begin each day with a boiled egg. I
could, without a timer, pluck that egg out when it
was just to my liking. It was, therefore, a surprise to
me when, many years later, I wanted to boil an egg
and had completely forgotten how long to cook it! I
found myself thumbing through the pages of the ‘Joy
of Cooking’ and was relieved to find that its author had
taken into account the inexperienced – and in this case, the
absent-minded.
This is just to say that I think it is great when we get to the point
where we can create without guidelines. However, read on if you
are just getting into woodworking, beginning a new area of
woodworking, or coming back to it after a bit of time off.
If you are more experienced, you will still find some great tips
and appreciate the innovative woodworker, who can find an easier
way. Lou Peeters is going to inspire you in this issue with a jig for
the biscuit joiner and he is inviting you to send in your own
innovative jig. Check out the contest on page 34. We’ll
print your best jigs in future issues.
Corrections:
Last issue we published a book review about
Shaping Wood but missed giving you the
information you need to track it down. Here it is:
Book Title: Shaping Wood
Author: Lonnie Bird
Publisher: Published by The Taunton Press,
Hardcover, 9 1/4” x 10 7/8”, 304 pages, 958 Colour
Photos, $39.95 US.
Ask your bookseller to order it in if they don’t stock it. Most
booksellers are happy to oblige.
In the Oct/Nov issue, for the corner table, there are two
corrections: on page 28 in the bottom left diagram, the
enlargement of the drawing should be 400% and the measurement
in the triangular table top which reads 7/8” should be “10 7/8”; on
page 29 the enlargement of the drawings should be 265%.
Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com
PAUL FULCHER
ou may notice a lot of references to our website (and
our Wood Forum) in this issue. The reason for this,
is that there has been an incredible increase in the
use of the internet in general and our website in
particular.
We are currently in a major transition in the way
that people (and specifically woodworkers) communicate with
each other and how they get the information that is relevant to
them.
For instance, it wasn’t long ago that someone would write a
question to a publication such as ours, mail that letter and await a
response. The publication would, after receiving the letter, have to
research the question and either respond to the person directly or
print the response in the next issue. The whole cycle of
question/answer taking months. That has changed with electronic
communication. Now, with email, the question/answer cycle can
be within the same day.
However, while the internet is saving us time, it can also
be the cause of a lot of wasted time. Searching for
something on the internet can take an incredible
amount of time. Unlike an encyclopedia, where you
can simply look something up quickly and easily,
the internet can sometimes be overwhelming. A
simple search can lead to hours of frustration, with
reams of information that has no relevance to what
you are looking for.
That is why we are encouraging the use of our
website and wood forum. Do you want a woodworking
question answered fast without spending hours and hours
sifting though irrelevant information? If so, then just go to
our website and ask your question on our wood forum.
We have literally thousands of woodworkers going to our wood
forum every day. Some are professional woodworkers, some are
woodworking educators, and many are woodworkers that are
simply trying to improve their skills and help others along the
way. We have a lot of regular contributors and even more
“lurkers”. Lurkers are woodworkers who come to our site
everyday and read the postings, waiting to see one that they can
respond to. Sometimes a woodworker will lurk for months and
months. But, once they respond to a posting, there’s no
going back. They become a “contributor”, and more
often than not, they start answering postings again
and again.
So I encourage you to check out our website and
go to our wood forum. If you have a question, jump
right in and ask it. You’ll be delighted when you
experience our woodworking community first hand.
Or, if you want to be bold and become a
“contributor”, look over the postings and see if there
is anything that you can answer for a fellow
woodworker.
The internet can be a great resource, if you know where to go.
I hope that when you are looking for woodworking related
information you will start with our website. I’m sure that you will
find what you are looking for and maybe meet a few fellow
woodworkers along the way.
CANADIAN WOODWORKING 3
 LETTERS
deareditors
Dear Editors:
I live in the Vancouver area and am
looking for parts for a Beaver Model 3200
table saw. I am new to woodworking and
don’t know if other brands are
interchangeable. Help!
L. Cuthbert
Vancouver BC
Dear L. Cuthbert:
Thanks for your email requesting
information on your Beaver Model 3200
table saw. The first resource that comes to
mind is A.C. Jenkins, Electric Repair.
They are a company that specialize in
power tool repairs, parts, accessories and
service (you can get a hold of them at:
1-888-465-9316). We get a lot of requests
for this type of information, and A.C.
Jenkins can usually help out. Also, please
note that any and all woodworking related
questions can easily be answered by using
our Wood Forum
www.canadianwoodworking.com. Often,
finding answers on the internet can be
overwhelming and time consuming. That’s
not the case when you use the Wood
Forum to find answers to your woodwork-
ing questions. I’ve seen questions ranging
from very basic to quite advanced, and
they always get answered in a direct and
personal way – sometimes one or two
answers from across Canada – sometimes
dozens of answers from around the world.
If people on the forum don’t know the
answer, they will often direct you to a
resource or website that does.
fulcher@canadianwoodworking.com
I’d like to put your link on my web page
with your logo etc. I don’t, however, want
to have to spend a lot of time figuring it
out. Do you have a fast and easy way I can
do a copy and paste without having to
work with the HTML?
Bob Aplin
Dear Bob:
Thanks for your email requesting
information on linking to our site. It’s a
very easy process, and, it can help you to
generate traffic to your site as well. Soon
you will be able to offer a free
woodworking magazine to anyone who
visits your website. It’s a great incentive
for someone to drop by your site.
To place our logo onto your site, and link
to our website, all you have to do is go to
our website at
www.canadianwoodworking.com and
4 CANADIAN WOODWORKING
click on “Link to us”. You may want to ask
the person who did your website, or if you
are internet savvy, you can do it yourself.
Check out the site and see.
fulcher@canadianwoodworking.com
I just received my renewal notice in the
mail and was able to use your website to
renew my subscription in a matter of
minutes. Excellent! I always forget to mail
envelopes in a timely fashion.
Your publication is one of the best I read,
and only one of two I subscribe to.
I would like to see more small projects
like the table in the current issue (Vol. #4,
Issue #5). Maybe something with mortise
and tennon joints to challenge us new
woodworkers.
Your article in the last issue dealing with
pressure treated wood was very well
written and informative (Vol. #4, Issue
#4). Most of the carpenters at work did not
know about the risks. In fact, most of the
guys at work who are DIY’ers knew
nothing about the risks of pressure treated
wood. We read with great interest the
product review on “LifeTime”, the new
alternative wood preservative, out of
Calgary. If we can find a source we will try
some.
Please stick with the news print format.
Without so much glare, it is much easier
on the eyes when following plans in the
basement. Keep up the good work.
TTFN
Phil McKenna
Oromocto, NB
Editors’ Note: “LifeTime” Wood
Treatment Source: Valhalla Wood
Preservatives Ltd., 1931 - 12th Avenue
S.W., Calgary, Alberta, T3C 0R9, tel:
403-228-5193, fax: 403-229-9365
We received a lot of response from the
Pressure Treated Lumber (PTL) article.
The responses were all appreciative except
the following:
Dear Editors:
I believe the August-September 2001
article on the dangers of pressure treated
lumber, by Mr. G. McCullogh, is unnec-
essarily alarmist and, in fact, seems an
attempt at scaremongering. This borders
on irresponsible, tabloid-style journalism.
A gullible reader might surmise that
working with PTL is akin to swimming in
a tank of PCBs or wearing asbestos-fiber
clothing.
The content of chemicals in PTL is so
low as to present little, if any, hazard to
anyone.
Your readers, and yourselves, could do
well to read Jon Eakes’ article #04-156,
available on his website, under the “Nuts
and Bolts” section, “Is Pressure Treated
Wood Safe Or Not”. The real safety issues
are addressed: To never burn the material,
and which chemicals to never use to clean
it.
As to what will “leech” [sic] from the
wood, there are tens of thousands of
garden planters built with PTL, many of
which have been in use 20 years or more,
and the annuals, perennials and shrubs that
grow in them obviously don’t read any
obscure reports of why they should all die.
Just as Spellcheck can’t catch the
misspelling of “leach”, there are those
who can’t resist overstating the dangers
and hazards of ordinary materials and
circumstances, but such alarmism does no
one any service.
Mike Robertson
Meaford, Ontario.
Dear Mike:
Thanks for your email and opinion. We
maintain that there may be cause for
concern. It might be prudent to consider
such data as the Health Canada’s
scientific report on Pressure Treated
Wood. (The report found 10 out of 10 play
structures in the Ottawa to have arsenic
and chromium on the surface and in the
soil below. One piece of equipment had
levels of arsenic that exceed the current
Canadian guideline by more than 10x.)
For the full article see: http://cbc.ca/cgi-
bin/templates/view.cgi?/news/2001/10/29/
press_wood011029 (Written by CBC
News Online Staff)
Editors’ note:
A special thanks to Alberto for posting
the above reference to PTL on our Wood
Forum. In the thread following Alberto’s
posting were the following:
Re: PTL in the news:
Over ten years ago, the Ontario Ministry
of Transportation considered PTL cut-offs
and broken PT posts to be hazardous
waste. On this forum over the last couple
of years there have been warnings by
several woodworkers to others who were
considering PTL for applications where
skin contact was likely (i.e. decks). PTL is
not permitted for animal pens so why use
it where it will be in contact with humans?
Ron.
Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com
Re: PTL in the news:
That’s what western red cedar’s for isn’t it?
Mike King
Sherwood Park, AB

Paul & Linda:

Tax Free
I have just received your letter re: the information requested about
missing issues. Thank you.
I have also received the missing issues from your office. Again,
thank you.
Event!
A discount equivalent to the tax will be deducted from your tuition.

I have received the October/November issue in the time frame you

specified. Again, thank you. Mark Eaton
It is not often that I am left with a feeling that if all my request for Head Instructor
action and information were handled as you have done, life would
be a lot easier for all concerned. One more thank you! Take part in one of
J. Moffit the best learning
experiences you could
fulcher@canadianwoodworking.com have with your router.
Hello. I am writing on behalf of my husband. He has been
working with wood for the past 10 years and has quite a talent for
it. His work gets great praise from everybody that gets a chance to
see it. His work is of great quality. The reason I am writing is to Classes available for all skill levels.
know if there is any way to get his designs out there. He has great
ideas and builds great things such as my personal favourite: a 4 hour seminars, 1 day Hands On Router Basics
Deacon’s Bench. He designed the bench for a woodsmen festival or full 5 day routing experience.
around our town. If you have any suggestions about how he could
get his work noticed, or even if you would be interested in seeing
his designs, please feel free to contact me through e-mail. Any The choice is yours.
information you could give us would be greatly appreciated.
Sincerely, Nadine
New Brunswick
Dear Nadine:
Classes
Thank you for your email asking how to get your husband’s
designs “out there”. I
think it’s great that Order
starting at just
you are so appreciative NOW
and supportive. If he is
interested, I would be
delighted to publish
your
plans $9.95
his Deacon’s Bench.
We have had several
PLANS & The National To book a
requests for such an
item and I have been PATTERNS space call
watching for one that Router Academy (905) 826-4720
we could offer our
readers. As for getting or
his work noticed, you BALL BEARINGS (800) 370-3834
might want to check SUSPENSION KIT Monday to
out Danny Proulx’s
book that deals with Saturday
the “business of
woodworking”. Or, 10 am _ 5 pm
you could ask on the
Wood Forum how FOOTREST
others have done what MECHANISM 2900 Argentia Rd.
you are trying to Unit #11 in Mississauga.
achieve. The Wood Just south of the
Forum contributors 401 highway off
have a lot of Winston Churchill Blvd.
experience in that area
and would be
delighted to offer their
insights and
experiences. www.NationalRouterAcademy.com

Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com CANADIAN WOODWORKING 5

woodcraft BY GARNET HALL

Tiger Lily

H
ere is another beginner level
project with a couple twists.
This project is also a good
seller at craft sales. It has
some raising and lowering
as well as some shaping to do. The more
shaping you give it, the better it will look.
The actual size of the Lily is 10” x 8” and
has 23 pieces.

Transfer the pattern to the wood.

You can use carbon paper, make a
template or photocopy and spray glue the
various pieces to the wood. Use
whichever method you like best.
I like to make a template of the pattern:
trace the pattern onto some thin material
like 1/8” MDF board and cut the pieces
out with a small blade, such as a #1 or #3
double tooth.
Trace template pieces onto the wood
Cut the pieces out.
I like to use a #7 or #9 precision skip
style blade. This is a very important step.
Cut very carefully and the piece will fit
better. MAKE SURE YOUR BLADE IS
SQUARE TO THE TABLE!
Assemble and check for fit.
You may have to trim a piece or even
remake a piece to get an acceptable fit. If I
am within a saw kerf or 1/16” I am happy
(and usually surprised).
MATERIAL LIST
I start with 3/4” material
1 p c . 6” x 10” - Light Western
Red Cedar
1 p c . 2” x 6” - Dark Western
Red Cedar
1 p c . 2” x 6” - Green Shade
Poplar
Raise and lower the pieces as per
instructions. I use scrap plywood to raise,
in increments of 1/8”. Just glue the
plywood scrap to the bottom of the pieces.
To lower, just re-saw the pieces thinner or
sand them thinner on a belt sander
Shape the pieces.
Re-assemble and check for fit again. The
next step is the shaping. Try to achieve a
smooth transition from one level to the
next. On the petals where I have marked
slope down to L2 for example, that means
shape the pedals down to 3/8” thick. The
petals should slope down to the center
marked L2. The stamens and the marks on
the petals are burned in with a wood
burning tool. You could also use a fine
tipped marking pen.
When you are done shaping sand the
pieces. I don’t sand past 220 grit. I don’t
feel there is any point making more dust
than I have to. You can sand by hand or use
a tool like a Flap Sander.
Make sure you have some protection
from the sawdust. Its best to have your
tools hooked up to a dust collector and
wear a good quality dust mask.
Glue up and round over.
Re-assemble the project on the cut-out
back and start the glue-up. Ordinary, white
carpenters glue is fine. With a small
project like this, you can spread glue over
the backboard and then place and fit the
project on the backboard. You will have
10-15 minutes to move the pieces around.
Don’t put any glue on the edges of the
pieces because it will squeeze to the
surface and cause finishing problems.
Round over the edges of the backboard.
Finish.
Apply the finish. Any finish will work. I
like to use Minwax Satin Durathane.
Three coats on the front and one on the
back. Sand between coats.
That’s about all, a few basic
woodworking skills and a lot of patience
and you will be proud of the results. This
project is another step toward more
challenging projects.
GARNET HALL is an intarsia artist living in
Stoughton, SK. 1-800-729-2473 www.sawbird.com

6 CANADIAN WOODWORKING Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com

 Pattern reduced to 90%.
Can be sized to preference.

LT - Light Western Red Cedar

DK - Dark Western Red Cedar
G - Green - Green Shade Poplar

Visit our website at http:/www.canadianwoodworking.com CANADIAN WOODWORKING 7

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8 CANADIAN WOODWORKING Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com

featureproject BY DANNY PROULX

Office Bookcase
T
here’s always a
need for extra book
storage in the
home or office. Although
most of us depend heavily on
the computer, we still require
those invaluable reference
books.
I made this project with 3/4” thick oak
veneer plywood and 1/4” thick veneer
plywood for the back board. The trim at
the top and base, as well as the stiles and
rail, are all solid wood. The shelves are
oak veneer plywood and the support strip
on the front edge of each is solid oak. That
front wood edge isn’t just decorative, it
acts as a rib to increase the shelf load
capacity.
The shelves are all adjustable and I’ve
used a little different technique for the
supports in place of the usual holes. These
metal shelf standards are installed in a
groove and are capable of handling heavy
loads. They are available in a number of
finishes including gold, silver, black, and
white. I used the white finish on mine so it
would be easier to see in the photographs.
However, the gold colored standards
■ Photo Credit: Michael Bowie, Lux Photography, Ottawa, Ontario

might be more suitable with the natural

clear polyurethane that I’ve applied.
I suggest you purchase your shelf
standards before cutting the grooves.
There are size variations depending on the
manufacturer and you’ll want to be sure
the cut is correct. My standards are
available in 8’ lengths and have been cut to
size. You should be able to find them in
any large hardware store.
There are many ways to join wood and
I’ve illustrated a few styles in this project.
Those that I’ve suggested, from simple to
complicated, are offered with one goal in
mind – the construction of a sturdy book
storage case.
Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com CANADIAN WOODWORKING 9

MATERIAL LIST
2 ( A ) 3/4” x 11 7/8” x 78”
Sides, Oak Veneer Plywood
2 ( B ) 3/4” x 11 7/8” x 31 3/4”
Top & Bottom, Oak Veneer Plywood
1 ( C ) 1/4” x 32 1/2” x 75 3/4”
Back, Oak Veneer Plywood
2 ( D ) 3/4” x 1 1/2” x 78”
Stiles, Solid Wood
1(E) 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 30 1/4”
Top Rail, Solid Wood
1(F) 3/4” x 1 1/2” x 30 1/4”
Bottom Shelf Strip, Solid Wood
1 ( G ) 3/4” x 3” x 34 3/4”
Front Baseboard, Solid Wood
Angle Cut on Both Ends
2 ( H ) 3/4” x 3” x 13 1/2”
Side Baseboards, Solid Wood
Angle Cut on Front End
1(J) 7’
Top Trim, Solid Wood
Length Depends on Style
Chosen. Angle Cut Solid Wood
4 ( K ) 3/4” x 10 7/8” x 31 1/2”
Shelves, Oak Veneer Plywood
4(L) 3/4” x 1 1/2” x 31 1/2”
Shelf Strips, Solid Wood
HARDWARE LIST
Glue
Screws
Shelf Standard
Adjustable Shelf Pins
Biscuits and Dowels
Step 1
Step 2
10 CANADIAN WOODWORKING
BUILDING THE BOOKCASE
STEP 1
Each side A requires a rabbet on the rear
inside face that’s 3/8” wide by 1/4” deep.
They also need two grooves, 1” in from
the edges, for the shelf standards. Verify
the width and depth of each groove by
measuring your standards.
STEP 2
The shelf standards should be cut 78”
long. Install them in the grooves and use
the small nails provided to secure the
standards.
STEP 3
Attach the two sides to the top board
with glue and 2” screws. It should be flush
with the upper ends of the sides. Drive the
screws through the outside face on the side
panels, as they will be covered with trim.
Attach the bottom board in the same way
aligning its top surface 3” above the
bottom ends of the sides. These screw
heads will be covered with the base trim.
The top and bottom boards should be
flush with side boards front edges.
STEP 4
Use glue and brad nails to attach the
back board. Take a little extra time to cut
the back accurately because a squarely cut
back will properly align the bookcase
carcass.
STEP 5
Attach the stiles flush with the outside
face of each side board. There are a
number of methods you can use to attach
the stiles. Glue and clamps, glue with
biscuits, or simply glue and face nailing
with finishing nails are all acceptable. I
used the glue and face nail method and
filling the nails holes with colored wood
filler to match my final finish.
Install one stile at this time. The other
side will be attached after the upper rail is
secured.
Step 3
You can add a little interest
TIP and change the appearance of
your bookcase by cutting flutes
in the stile faces. A “V” bit installed in a
router can create an interesting pattern.
The cut depth controls flute width.
STEP 6
The upper rail is installed with biscuits
into the side of each stile. Additionally,
apply glue to the edge of the carcase top
board and face nail the rail. After the rail is
secured, install the remaining stile.
STEP 7
Attach the hardwood strip F to the front
edge of the bottom shelf. This will extend
the bottom shelf making it flush with the
stile faces. Glue and nail the strip in place
and don’t be concerned about filling the
nail head holes as they will be covered by
the base trim.
STEP 8
The base trim measurements in the
materials list are taken at the longest point
of the 45-degree angle cuts. The top edge
of the trim is decorated with a cove bit in
a router. There are dozens of router bits
that can be used to add visual interest to
these large flat boards, which adds a little
flair to your project. Attach the baseboards
with glue and 1 1/4” screws on the
backside. These trim boards should be
installed flush with the top surface of the
bottom board.
■ continued on page 13
Step 4
Step 5
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Illustration by Len Churchill
Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com CANADIAN WOODWORKING 11
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■ continued from page 11
STEP 9
Before installing the top trim, round over
the inside edges of the two stiles and top
rail with a 3/8” round over bit. The router
base plate will be stopped by the base trim
and determines the point at which the
round over stops on each stile.
STEP 10
Cut the three pieces of top trim molding
at 45-degrees. Use the dimensions in the
materials list as a guide – verify the
measurements on your bookcase before
cutting the trim to size. Use glue and nails
to attach the molding.
STEP 11
Before standing the bookcase upright,
round over the outside edges of both stiles.
Use a 3/8” round over bit in a router. The
upper and lower trim boards will stop the
router travel and determine the cut length.
STEP 12
Cut the four shelf boards K. The front
trim pieces L for the shelves will make
them appear thicker and add a great deal of
strength to the boards. Use glue and nails or
biscuits to attach the edges. Round over the
top and bottom with a 3/8” round over bit.
Step 6
Step 7
Step 8
Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com
The top molding can be
TIP purchased or made with a router
bit. There are dozens of possible
patterns. If you make a lot of trim
molding for your projects, a molding
head cutter for the table saw, such as the
Magic Molder from LRH Enterprises
Inc., is a worthwhile investment.
You’ll get “cleaner” looking
TIP corners on trim boards, with
decorative router cuts, by
routering the design patterns before
mitering the corners. This technique
prevents routering mistakes when trying
to cut a pattern near a mitered end.
Step 9
Step 10
CONSTRUCTION NOTES
I’ve finished my bookcase with three
coats of semi-gloss polyurethane. The first
coat was cut with 10 per cent mineral
spirits and sanded with 320 grit papers.
The final full strength coat was rubbed
with paste wax and extra fine steel wool.
The design options for this project are
numerous. I’ve mentioned a few with
regards to trim style. But, there are the
more common changes such as width and
height variations to suit your needs. If you
plan on loading the shelves with extra
heavy items, add a hardwood strip on the
back edge.
Veneer plywood is an excellent choice
for this project because of its strength.
Medium Density Fiberboard and solid
wood panels are also worth considering.
This bookcase is a simple project but it
will be one of the most appreciated in your
home or office.
DANNY PROULX is a woodworking author and teacher.
www.cabinetmaking.com or
email danny@cabinetmaking.com
Step 11
Step 12
CANADIAN WOODWORKING 13
questionsanswers BY JIM KOUDYS

Q Recently I built a small jewellery box from

wood, salvaged from a pallet. It looked
great in my shop but, as soon as I
able to identify the wood and get an accurate
reading.
groove hides the possible crack that may develop
during the dry times of the year. This flooring is
very popular right now. Another alternative is the

Q
brought it into the house, it literally fell apart. Is the
wood used to make pallets really such poor quality?
I am in the market to purchase flooring
and have gone through the gambit of
old style, plank flooring
trying to find what suits me. I have looked
at pre-finished and unfinished flooring. I noticed Q Since I am fairly new to the wood working
hobby, this may sound kind of dumb, but

A
It’s not so much the quality of the lumber
as the moisture content of the wood. In
pallet construction the person buying the
pallet wants the cheapest pallet they can get, since
usually they never see it after their goods are
that in pre-finished flooring, there is a small groove
– or what they call a micro groove – at the edge of
the flooring. A lot of the unfinished flooring doesn’t
have this groove. Why is that?
here goes. I have noticed in several plans
and books, that some wood is measured in quarters
(5/4).What does that mean? Is a 5/4 piece of wood
the same as a 1 1/4” piece? I have looked in
magazines and in books, and have found no

A
delivered with it. Since making a pallet isn’t like The first thing to consider in both explanation to this. Somebody please help.
making a roll top desk, the moisture content isn’t floorings, is that machines aren’t perfect.

that critical and in fact, a lot are constructed with
green material to keep cost down. That doesn’t
mean you can’t use a pallet to construct your
project, it just means you have to make sure the
moisture is between 6 and 12 per cent before
using it. You could buy a moisture meter, or just
pretend the lumber is green and sticker it. Unless
the pallet is brand spanking new, more than likely
the moisture content is approaching 12 to 16 per
cent, which is a little above the average outside
mark. A few weeks of drying in your shop, prior
to use, should stop your problems. If you still
don’t trust it, then see if your local mill will
measure the moisture content. They should be
Therefore, in any run of flooring no two
pieces are alike. The thickness from one run to the
next may vary. Now this difference is marginal,
but it’s there. The reason unfinished flooring
doesn’t have the groove is because a quick
sanding will knock these edges down to make the
floor even from one side to the other. However,
because you don’t want to sand pre-finished
flooring, the manufacturer has found another way
to hide the unevenness. Hence, the groove, which
tricks the eye into believing the pieces are the
same height. Another reason for the groove is that
the relative humidity in your home may vary
greatly, causing the floor to grow and shrink. The
A
When you see wood referred to in that
manner it means that it is rough and not
dressed to size. Usually it’s slightly over
an inch – sometimes a full 1/16th over. The reason
for this is that a mill must make allowances for the
thickness of their blade and for how much a piece
of lumber may shrink. Since different species
shrink differently, most mills set up for the worst
case scenario and cut it greater than the one inch
thick. I am not sure when the quartering scale
began I will check into it and report back when I
know.
Hope this helps, Jim
JIM KOUDYS is the owner/operator of Kootur Lumber
in Smithville, Ontario. (905) 957-4217 jkootur@yahoo.com

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14 CANADIAN WOODWORKING Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com
woodjigs BY LOU PEETERS
Biscuit Joiner Jig
T
his issue features a jig
that is useful for making
the cuts associated with a
biscuit joiner. If you are
not familiar with the
Biscuit Joiner, it has a very unique
cutting action. A horizontal saw blade
plunges into the work piece, creating a
saw kerf, to accept a biscuit.
This biscuit is designed to swell
when the moisture of the glue is
applied to it. The glue I use is LePage
Cabinetmakers Yellow glue. There are
many different brands on the market,
but I know this one works.
When you are cutting, and your
work slides into a climb, the piece will
move with the blade, very quickly.
This puts your fingers in danger. The
best way to avoid this is to “Always
clamp your work, when using the
Biscuit Joiner.” (The first rule: “safe-
ty, was discussed in our last issue.)
This leads to my second rule of the
woodworking shop “You can never
have enough clamps.”
This jig is designed to clamp your
work before using a biscuit joiner. I
have used it for other cutting
operations, as well.
Construction of this jig is very
simple. On the bottom, fasten a
vertical piece, which can be
strengthened by gluing in the corner
blocks. Clamp the vertical piece into
your bench vise. You can also screw it
to the edge of your bench. Fasten the
vertical piece to a table. I made my
table by gluing a piece of pegboard to
a piece of M.D.F. The pegboard is for
the use of a 1/4” location pin. Fasten a
piece of hardwood onto the front edge
of the table, to help keep the table
straight. This works very well. Make
a right angle stop block to position
your work piece against. Fasten this to
the pegboard table. In the corner of
stop block, drill a 3/4” hole to accept
the clamp. I use a Model number 556
Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com
Quick-Grip Hold Down Clamp which
has a flange on the bottom, so it can
swing around 360 degrees. It also
rotates so you can clamp pieces on
both sides of the angled stop block.
You will like using this jig, because it
ensures that your work piece will not
slip. Most of what we biscuit join
together, is 3/4” thick stock, and most
good machines on the market – when
lying flat on their base – are designed
to cut into the centre of 3/4.”
Another handy jig you might like is
the model number 9R Welding Clamp,
from “Vise Grip.” Use it for a
material stop, on the extension fence
for your sliding compound mitre saw.
I recommend making your fence out
of high quality 3/4” plywood. Be sure
to install this fence perfectly in line
with the saw fence. The height of the
fence is 3” so the clamp will rest on it,
when it’s being slid into position.
I made the
TIP mitre saw
extension to the lift because
I am right handed. I can set
the wood on the extension
and use my right hand for
cutting. Learn how to use
your mitre saw, right and
left handed. This will ensure
that you never cross your
arms when using a
woodworking tool. If you
find yourself crossing your
arms, “STOP” and change
your approach. LOU PEETERS is a professional cabinetmaker and seminar
presenter, living in Woodstock, Ontario. (519) 539-1437
CANADIAN WOODWORKING 15
 CHALET
Woodcraft Inc.
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Specializing in
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16 CANADIAN WOODWORKING Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com
woodturning BY PAUL ROSS

A Marriage of
Textures

A new way of achieving stunning results

T
here are many skills is by using colored sand. Sand used for Note: Use your body behind the
and techniques this purpose, comes in four colours, as gouge to push – this will give
shown in the platters, two colours per you more control of the gouge in
involved in platter. To achieve this effect we turned the addition to absorbing vibration
platter and then cut grooves in the rim to into your body. You will also note
woodturning: skill with the accept the sand. First let’s look at the on this particular project that it
turning and then the technique of applying
tools and an eye for design the sand.
is turned on the outboard side of
the lathe. This allows you to
are the first two that come to The platter is a piece of maple, 1 1/2” push with your body behind the
thick by 16” in diameter. There is a flat gouge at all times. Not
mind. In addition to face on the piece, making it easy to use a everybody will have outboard
screw chuck. I have a 1/2” worm screw, so
acquiring these skills and I drilled a 3/8” pilot hole and fed the piece
capacity, so there could be cuts
where you will have to pull the
techniques, there is often a onto the chuck as shown in photo #1. The gouge in towards you.
outside cut is shown in photo #2. I used a
quest for the most 3/8” bowl gouge.
“extravagant” piece of
wood. However, there are
other ways of embellishing
pieces; whether it be filling
voids or cracks in a Photo 1 Photo 2

contrasting manner, or
deliberately adding colour
and texture. The methods are
as varied as your
imagination. Photo 3 Photo 4

Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com CANADIAN WOODWORKING 17

 The next cut is across the face. Use the
same gouge and remember to continue to
push with your body, but change hands
(photo #3). The piece is now ready to
prepare the spigot so you can eventually
grab it in the chuck as in photo #4. Do this
with a 1/4” parting tool. You’ll be using a
vacuum chuck later in the project to turn
the spigot off, so reference your true
center so that you can line it up with the
tail stock when the piece is in the vacuum
chuck. I do this with the point of a ‘9 in 1’
tool. (photo #5) (This particular tool has
many uses, however, we’re just using it
like an awl to establish a center).
Now you will be shaping the bottom. I
chose a fairly simple, pleasant curve for
this platter. Do this with the same bowl
gouge and then finish with a 1 1/4” square
end scraper. The scraper takes off the high
spots or ridges that the gouge has left. All
you are doing with the scraper is refining
the shape. Now power or hand sand,
whichever is your preference. I power
sand, starting with 120 grit and work my
way up to 400. Then for this particular
project, I hand sanded from 600 to 1500.
Take the piece off the screw chuck. In the
same chuck, remove the screw and grab
the spigot on the bottom. Take a facing cut
across the face and determine the width of
the rim. I chose about a 1 1/4” rim. Start
with an entry cut on the inside of the rim.
This is simply a matter of establishing the
Photo 5
Photo 8
Photo 11
18 CANADIAN WOODWORKING
point of the gouge into the wood until you
have a groove in which the bevel can rub.
Once the bevel is rubbing, then the cutting
edge of the gouge is supported and you
can proceed with your cut into the center
of the platter. I didn’t hollow out the entire
center of the platter until I had finished
cutting the grooves in the rim, applying the
sand and abrasing the sand. Cut the
grooves with a thin parting tool, as in
photo #6. Take the piece, chuck and all, off
the lathe, and sit it horizontally, to apply
the sand. The reason for taking it off with
the chuck attached is so that you can
maintain true centre. If you take the piece
off the chuck, you might not be able to
rechuck it true centre.
Photo #7 shows pouring the sand in the
groove. Do one groove at a time. Apply the
sand so the groove is a little fuller than the
wood. After applying the glue, as shown in
photo #8, wait for it to harden. Then blow
out the next groove to remove any sand
that has fallen in from the first colour
applied. As for glue, because I wanted to
complete this project quickly, I used the
‘water consistency’ Cynoacrylite. You
could also use epoxy, which take 24 hours
to cure, or for that matter, any adhesive
that will dry clear.
Now, with the piece back on the lathe, as
shown in photo #9, abrase the sand. As
this is actually sand, you can’t cut it with a
tool, no matter what type of metal it is
Photo 6
Photo 9
Photo 12
made of. You must shape wherever you are
applying the sand, first. Then after
applying the sand, you can abrase the sand
down to the wood, as shown in photo #9.
You have to start with fairly coarse grit –
80 grit does work, however, I found that 60
in a power-sanding pad is a little more
efficient. Work on small sections at a time.
Take the grits through to 400 power
sanding.
Shape the inside of the platter with the
bowl gouge (photo #10) and then scrape to
achieve a smooth flow, as shown in photo
#11. Power sand. Finally, I chose to hand
sand to 1500 grit.
Photo #12 shows the platter flipped onto
the vacuum chuck with the tailstock in
place and I turn most of the spigot off. In
photo #13 the vacuum chuck is on holding
the piece. Remove the tailstock and cut off
the pip. Scrape that little spigot section,
sand and finish. I chose a ‘Liberon’
finishing oil, which gave it a satin finish.
Note that you can’t cut sand,
you have to abrase it. Although
sand requires a different
approach, there are many
different ways of using sand to
produce very unusual and
stunning effects.
PAUL ROSS owns and operates Chalet Woodcraft and
teaches woodturning in Boston, Ontario. (519) 443-5369
www.kwic-com/~chalet
Photo 7
Photo 10
Photo 13
Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com
woodenpuzzle BY REA GIBSON

Three-Way
Cross Puzzle
T
his puzzle not only chal-
lenges you to separate the
three pieces but to re-assem-
ble them as well. The puzzle
is made up of three blocks of
solid wood, 1” x 3” x 4”. One of the blocks
is cut out as shown in Figure 1. Two blocks
are cut out as shown in Figure 2. A good
varnish or oil finish on all the surfaces of
each piece makes this an attractive puzzle.

REA GIBSON owns and operates Forest Hill Studios and

lives in Mount Forest, Ontario. email:egibson@golden.net

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20 CANADIAN WOODWORKING Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com

woodselection
Spinning Straw into Gold
T
here have been various types
of wafer boards around for
some time now. These would
include particleboard (M.D.F.)
and oriented strand boards
(O.S.B.). All of these are made from wood
fibers glued together under heat and
pressure. The new kid on the block is not
made from wood at all, but wheat straw. It
also is formed under heat and pressure but
does not use formaldehyde glue like most
other sheathing materials. The type of glue
used in construction seems to be a trade
secret for the moment, but hopefully, it is
less toxic and out-gasses less than the
formaldehydes.
Straw board looks almost identical to
particleboard in its appearance and texture.
This is where the similarity ends. Upon
closer inspection, you can see small bits of
the water-resistant outer sheath of the
wheat straw that make up its composition.
When cutting this unique board, it has the
familiar odor of wheat being combined.
This odor and the dust created when
cutting can, in fact, trigger allergic
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Visit our website at:www.canadianwoodworking.com
BY HANK ETHIER
reactions in people sensitive to grain dust.
Straw board will take a finish as well as
any sheathing material on the market. It
may be painted as well as sprayed with
solvent-based or water-based clear finishes.
In preliminary tests it was found that straw
board holds screws in its edge without
splitting, the way M.D.F. does. Also, it will
not swell up like a balloon the way
particleboard does, when it gets wet.
Similar sized pieces (approximately 25mm
x 150mm) of 16mm particleboard and
straw board were soaked in water. The
particleboard swelled to 22mm in
thickness, while the straw board swelled to
18mm. After drying, the particleboard
stayed at 22mm, while the straw board
returned to its original thickness of 16mm.
There are presently two straw board
plants in Alberta and one in Manitoba. The
Alberta plant seems to have had fewer
problems with the quality of their product.
It has been suggested that it may be due to
the Alberta plants making both sides of the
board the same texture and smoothness.
The Manitoba plant had been producing
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boards with one side different than the
other and had some problem with warping.
These plants are not the size of O.S.B.
plants currently on line and it has been
suggested that they never will be.
Forecasters in the industry believe greater
numbers of the smaller, less expensive
plants could be located close to the supply
of raw materials.
The straw board plants are still in their
start up phase, producing uncertified
sheets. The current price for the 16mm
thickness is about half of particleboard.
This, however, will change when the sheets
are certified. It would be a good time to see
if your local lumberyard stocks some of
these sample sheets, and give them a try
before the price goes up. If you are a user
of particleboard, you will be surprised at
the quality of straw board. Besides, a lot of
the raw material for this board will come
from Saskatchewan, giving farmers an
economic boost, for what would otherwise
be a waste product.
HANK ETHIER is a furniture maker and refurbisher in
Prince Albert, SK. Tel. (306) 922-3323 Fax (306) 763-37389
email: ammena@ak.sympatico.ca
CANADIAN WOODWORKING 21
22 CANADIAN WOODWORKING Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com
tooltest BY GRAHAM MCCULLOCH

Cordless Drill from Ryobi you would pay for some rechargeable and mechanical fasteners to hold the
The new HP 1442 MK2 cordless drill from batteries alone, $125 at Home Depot. At this beading. In many cases the chosen beading
Ryobi is one heck of a deal. I think that it’s price even the professionals should consider will not match the frame in either colour or
one of the best buys on the market today for this ★ ★ ★ ★ cordless. grain.
the home woodworker. The Freud 99-281 glazed frame router bit
We put our testing sample through its Freud set will provide you with an ogee shaped
paces and were very impressed. It definitely Freud is one of the foremost producers of stile and rail and in addition, will give you a
kept up with the big boys. The HP 1442 carbide tipped router bits and one very matching bead all in one pass. Simply
MK2 is a 14.4 volt kit that comes with a important factor that puts them into this running the moulding through a 1/8” kerf
carrying case, two batteries, two enviable position is the fact that they saw blade on your table saw releases the
screwdriver bits and a diagnostic one-hour produce their own carbide compound. The bead for mitering and installation behind the
charger. The drill itself has a keyless chuck, precise mixture of elements is dependent on glass. A great advantage in both appearance
two speed ranges, one for drilling and one specific uses. and timesaving.
for screw driving. The trigger varies the Freud is also foremost in designing new
rpm’s in each range. Add to this a 24 and innovative router bits that will do work Tongues & Grooves
position torque dial to fully control better and faster. A case in point is the new Normally a tongue and groove router bit
countersinking. Freud panel raising bit. set gives you only one choice, a 1/4” groove
What could possibly be new with a panel width. They also restrict you to a 3/4” stock
raising bit you ask? Let me tell you! First, thickness.
the profile of the Freud 99-566 is
3 1/2”, considerably larger than
most others. Secondly, the 99-566
does architecturally correct raised
panels. Let me explain.
Most raised panel doors have a flat
interior and can be unattractive.
Really Nice Architectural designers prefer to have
Features a smaller, similar detail on the inside of the
The HP 1442 door as well. This is costly in that it takes
MK2 has several additional steps to perform along
some added with addition router bits. The new Freud
features 99-566 router bit combines the front and
that any rear raised panel profile in
d o - i t - a single pass. The end The new Freud 99-036 Adjustable Tongue
yourselfer result is an & Groove Set offers a lot more choices. The
w i l l expensive set allows you to use any stock thickness
appreciate. looking from 1/2” to 1 1/4” and can adjust to give
The drill has a h i g h you 7/32” to 3/8” groove widths. This
padded pistol grip for comfort and allows quality versatility allows you to make a choice of
the drill to free-stand. A built-in horizontal cabinet what stock thickness you use.
level and a bull’s eye level for vertical door, one The versatility is simplicity itself. A
drilling accuracy. The horizontal level is that you can set of shims in various thicknesses are
removable to check those small jobs and that be really proud the answers, simply remove the bolt,
is a nice convenience. One additional of. follow the enclosed chart and reassemble.
convenience is the magnetic plate at the foot It’s that easy.
of the drill. It will hold a half dozen screws Glass Doors
so that there is no more pocket digging or Speaking of doors, that cabinet that you Surgically Sharp
jabbed fingertips. plan to make with the raised panel doors All of the above Freud router bit sets are
Ryobi has a real hit on its hands with this may have glass upper doors and Freud has true to the Freud reputation. They are
one. The HP 1442 MK2’s price is less than some help here as well. surgically sharp and they stay that way for a
TOOL TEST RATING SYSTEM
Again, Freud is looking at the quality and long time. Needless to say, sharpness means
★ .............. below average quality appearance of the interior of the glass no tear-out and that is an important feature.
★ ★ ........... average quality paneled door. Normally you would rout a We gave these innovative and work saving
★ ★ ★ ........ very good quality/value dado on the rear of the door frame in which bits our highest marks, ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ’s.
★ ★ ★ ★ ..... excellent quality/value to sit the glass and then use a 1/4 round or
GRAHAM McCULLOCH is a woodworker and writer living
★ ★ ★ ★ ★ .. top of the line rectangular bead to hold the glass in place in Halifax, NS. (902) 479-0221 graham@shortcuts.ns.ca

Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com CANADIAN WOODWORKING 23

 artistfeature BY MARY-ANN JACK-BLEACH

“The Gifted Giver”

you have shared

W
e all take away this same
d i s t i n c t experience, as
Lewis is as
memories from prolific a carver as
he is a gift giver.
each wood show: the At the
Woodstock Wood
excitement of purchasing Show this year, I
new equipment, finding that worked in a booth
next to his and
rare wood, learning a watched the
public and other
helpful tip from a vendor or exhibitors
meeting someone special interacting with
Lewis. He made
who makes you smile. This young and old
smile as he
article is about the latter – a entertained them
with his stories.
unique and talented man, They all left with
who many describe in just some form of a
“gift” from him,
two words: “a character.” whether it was
advice or a small
Lewis Cohen is a regular at most Ontario carving. On the
wood shows within a two-hour radius of last day of the
Toronto. I met Lewis for the first time, show, I asked him
while attending an Ontario Wood Carvers why he gives his
Association Wood Show in the early carvings away. He Carver and instrument maker: Lewis Cohen.
1990s. He was sitting behind a table, replied that he has
carving a small boot. In front of him, was done this since he started attending wood concerts. He played symphonic music at
an army of woodcarvings. They were all shows, roughly 12 years ago, because he Massey Hall and at other renowned venues
neatly arranged in rows, staring out at the enjoys sharing what he carves. He in Toronto.
admiring public. I recall glancing his way. mentioned that he had given away close to His parents came from Europe and he
He responded with a quick smile and 100 small carvings at the show already. He followed in his father’s footsteps by
started talking to me. During this then quickly added, in a serious tone, but becoming a Master Butcher. Lewis and his
conversation, he reached into one of the with a glint in his eye, that he only gives wife raised six children – four boys and
rows and picked up one of his carvings. It his carving to the ladies. At 86 years old, I two girls. In 1982, he was 27 years old
was a “howling hound dog”. He said, believe this is Lewis’s prerogative! when his wife passed away. The year
“This is for you.” and handed it to me. I Lewis Cohen was born in Toronto in thereafter was filled with deep despair for
left his table beaming. I had never 1915. At the age of eight he learned how to him and he stopped working. His
expected to be given a carving, especially play the violin and, in his teenage and daughters urged him to return to school. A
by a total stranger. I am sure that many of early adult years, performed at many week before Christmas in 1983, he signed
■ continued on page 26
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Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com CANADIAN WOODWORKING 25

■ continued from page 24
up for a violin-making course. Having been
a wood worker throughout his life, Lewis
quickly caught up with the other students
who had started the class in October.
Lewis has not looked back. To date he has
made a total of seven violins and two violas.
He currently has two violas in progress.
In Lewis’s opinion, it doesn’t matter if you
are carving meat or wood, your knife has to
be sharp. He predominantly carves with
Flexcut palm tools and knives. He uses 600
grit followed by 1500-grit wet/dry
automotive sandpaper to sharpen his tools.
He hones them on a piece of off-cut leather,
which has been covered with a layer of
medium valve grinding compound. He
occasionally finishes his carvings with
Flecto Varathane, but mostly leaves them
natural.
He created a thumb protector to prevent his
thumb from being cut by his sharp tools. It
consists of a small rectangular piece of soft,
off-cut leather that covers the inside aspect
of the thumb. It is held in place by a wide 1”
band of elastic that is sewn onto it and forms
a tunnel for his thumb to rest in. Lewis told
me a funny story about a carving club
member who enquired about how he made
his thumb protector. When Lewis told him,
“tongue in cheek”, that it was made from the
tongue of his shoe. The carver promptly
reached down and cut the tongue out of his
own shoe, placed it over his thumb and held
it in place with a few
elastics. By the next
club meeting the
carver had a wide
band of elastic neat-
ly sewn onto his
shoe’s ex-tongue!
Lewis has a broad
range of interests which include cooking,
woodworking, instrument making and, more
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26 CANADIAN WOODWORKING
recently, woodcarving. While it is apparent
that Lewis loves to joke and share his
experiences, he also has a serious side. He is
an independent and creative thinker. He
looks at a task from an analytical
perspective and seeks to gain knowledge
through his own learning and experience.
Lewis attributes this approach to his father.
When he was young, his father helped him
to learn by ensuring that Lewis worked out
solutions by himself with careful guidance,
versus being told how to do something. For
example, he once offered to make a viola for
a friend’s son, to replace the one that was
stolen from him. At the time, Lewis had no carving and promoting the art of
active playing knowledge of the instrument. woodcarving.
He began painstaking research and At wood shows, Lewis enjoys the
completed the precious viola in six months! company of his personal friend, Neil Cox. I
His friend was overjoyed. spoke briefly to Neil about Lewis. Neil
Lewis shares his talent with a variety of shared a story about their first meeting in the
interesting and sometimes famous people. late 1980s. Neil was demonstrating carving
Lewis’s generosity extended to Mayor Mel at the CNE show. Lewis came over to talk to
Lastman, who can now rest his weary feet him and, before long, had offered Neil some
on a footrest made out of 100 pieces of black steel to make his own knives. In exchange,
walnut. Lewis stresses that even though he Neil gave Lewis the small carving he was
working on. They have been friends ever
since. In Neil’s words, “Lewis has taught a
lot of people to love woodcarving.”
While talking to Lewis and watching him
carve, I marveled at the strength and
dexterity in his hands and fingers. This was
apparent in spite of the arthritis which he
told me had cut short his violin playing days
Lewis, I hope you have many more carving,
furniture/instrument-making and cooking
days ahead of you! Most of all, I thank you,
on behalf of all those people who have
benefited from your kindness and
knowledge and who may have, in their
possession, a small wooden carving with the
still thrives on being active, he only words written on it, in pen: “By Lewis
works on projects when he is in the mood. Cohen with love”.
However, he willingly spends many hours in
MARY-ANN JACK-BLEACH is an award winning
his community helping seniors with their carver and carving judge.
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easyproject
Plant
Stand
R
emember Mom’s little
plant stand? Fond
memories often revolve
around the simplest
things. The sight of this
little table could remind you of the
parlor that you crept into when you
were six years old; maybe it sat on the
porch and you knocked it over,
breaking Mom’s favorite flowerpot;
maybe you helped your dad build it.
No matter what the memory, a little
project like this one will become
something of great value to a family
in years to come. Here’s how to build
your own memories.
Choose your lumber well. This one
was built using oak. The two shelves
were laminated to prevent warping
under heavy loads. Cut the shelves to
size and note the grain direction of the
bottom shelf. This gives it strength.
Mark the corner radii carefully and
cut.
The easiest way to mark the centre
of the 6 1/2” radius is this. Find the
beginning and ending point of the cut-
ting radius with the measurements
given on the drawing. Since the board
that will become the shelf is not large
enough to draw the centre on, clamp
another board to the side of it
temporarily to accept the pencil mark
as shown in the diagram. Now place
the point of your compass at the
beginning of the cutting radius and
Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com
BY STEVE SIDDALL
strike an arc on the temporary board.
Move the point of the compass to the
ending point of the cutting radius and
strike a second arc. This will cross the
first arc as shown on the drawing.
There you have the centre of the
cutting radius. Now place the
compass point on the newly found
centre and mark the cutting radius.
Believe me, I found it harder to put
this into words than it will be for you
to do so don’t hesitate to try it. It
works every time. Four uniform cuts
on this project really makes a
difference.
The design for the legs will need to
be enlarged. After marking the pattern MATERIAL LIST
onto your wood (but prior to cutting
the curves) cut the 1/8” deep dados. 4 1 3/4” x 16”
They will lock the legs to the top, Legs
preventing the legs from collapsing
under the load. 1 10” x 10”
Drill clearance holes for the Top Shelf
attachment screws and, if you wish,
counter bore the holes to accept 1 7 7/8” x 7 7/8”
standard screw hole plugs. Finish Bottom Shelf
sand all six pieces and do a trial
assembly. 8 #6 x 2”
Stain or paint your new project as Wood Screw (flat head)
you would any other project. Final
assemble and start creating memories
8 3/8”
for the young ones around you! Wood Plugs (optional)
Stain or paint your new project as
you would any other project, final
assemble and start creating memories STEVE SIDDALL is president of Workshop Supply Inc.
for the young ones around you! 1-800-387-5716 www.workshopsupply.com
CANADIAN WOODWORKING 27
28 CANADIAN WOODWORKING Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com
canadiancompetitions

H
ere are some of the winners of Wood Turning Carving
the 2001 ShortCuts Atlantic First Place: Jaimie Wolverton – First Place: Jean Claude Caron –
Amateur Woodworking “Gauara”’ is an
Competition (SAAW). The interesting relief
competition is sponsored by carving in
Canadian Woodworking Magazine, Bosch basswood. Jean
Tools, Busy Bee Tools, Contractor’s Desk C l a u d e ’s
Magazine, DeWalt Tools, Delta attention to
International, East Coast Hardwoods, detail and
Flecto/Varathane, Freud, Fundy Grinding, balance in form
Hitachi, Lee Valley Tools, Makita Tools, were winning
Mill Supply, Minwax Finishes, Porter Cable considerations.
Tools and Vermont-American Tools. This piece of dwarf sumac crotch was still
dripping with sap when Jaimie
Interior Furniture visualized this natural edged bowl. To retain
First Place: Andrew Hann – This large, the clean cut of the bark edge was a feat in Wildlife
solid cherry itself, let alone the unusual and unique First Place: Dan MacLean – Dan was a
entertainment shape. winner last year
cabinet took and his attention
Andrew just Intarsia to detail is what
over 250 hours First Place/Best In Competition: gave him the
to complete. The Andrew Hann – Andrew’s woodworking is first again. This
tambour pocket q u i t e carving is a
doors and the versatile, G o l d e n
curved drawers judging C r o w n e d
add to the beauty from his Kinglet in flight.
and function of t w o The bird is life
this beautiful winning size and carved
furniture piece. entries. in tulip wood.
This piece The base is
Exterior Furniture is titled carved from
First Place: Len Elvidge – The garden “Hidden black walnut.
trellis was Forest”
m a d e and has Scroll Work
f r o m b e e n First Prize: Don Nicholas – Don spent 57
pressure modified hours making 779
treated from the internal cuts on
lumber original plan by using more than 10 wood this beautiful
w i t h species. Over 1,100 individually cut and “Two Bell Tower
laminated shaped pieces went into this work. Andrew Clock” made with
arches to went far beyond the original intarsia plan for 1/4” oak. The
a radius this project in both wood species and cut piece is 23” high x
of 48”. pieces. His attention to even the minutest 19” wide and 8”
The 3 1/2’ wing fences bring the eye to the detail, such as the individual blades of grass, deep.
attractive entryway to the Elvidge garden. earn him this award of best in competition.

Subscription
Draw Winners!
Paul and Anna Jamieson, both
POWER
avid woodworkers from Barrie,
Ontario, are our latest RELIABILITY
subscription draw prize winners. Paul and Anna Jamieson
ROTANT Rotary Vane
They were excited to receive the SERVICE Vacuum Pump
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The next draw is January 31, 2002. 1-800-461-2611 WEBSITE: www.pfspumps.com

Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com CANADIAN WOODWORKING 29

woodtips BY JOHN CRYDERMAN
Inlay in Minutes
Y
ou won’t believe how fast and
easy it is to do attractive inlay
work and add beauty and
value to all your
woodworking projects. If you
can draw a circle using a circle template,
then you are on your way to becoming an
expert at quality inlay work.
The following photos show everything
you need to get started in adding that
expensive touch, in an inexpensive way, to
your finished woodworking pieces. Use
both circle and oval type templates.
One of the secrets to fast and easy
inlaying is using the right glue. In fact, this
is such an important key to successful
inlay, that I am going to begin with it.
GLUES
Glues are comprised of compounds from
nature such as “hide” glues and “paste
type” glues which, when hardened or
cured, can be broken down with water and
steam for reuse. This is why hide glue is
used for some fine furniture repair or the
repair of musical instruments. When
taking a musical instrument apart for
repair or replacing parts, hide glue can be
Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com
steamed loose. The area that was
once glued can be cleaned and
re-glued with the replacement part
without damaging the instrument.
Adhesives, on the other hand, are
based on artificial, man-made
compounds such as epoxies and PVA
glues (i.e. the yellow and white
“carpenter” style glues).
The type of glue I found to be the best
for inlay, is a type of super glue, sold on
the shelves in hobby stores as
“Cyanoacrylate”. This is great stuff for
quickly gluing small pieces of inlay. It sets
in about 10 to 20 seconds depending on:
moisture content of your wood; the PH or
acidity level of your wood; and of course
your workshop temperature and humidity.
Generally, after 15 seconds, your piece of
inlay is permanent. As you can see from
the photos, you can create colourful,
finished inlay work by using the natural
colour of the many exotic woods available.
WOOD SELECTION
There are many beautiful, exotic woods
with outstanding colour available at many
wood and lumber supply stores.
I use African padauk or Burmese padauk
(a nice orange colour), purple heart
(purple in colour), African blackwood
(both black-early wood and yellow-late
wood – gives a beautiful contrast for
inlay), Brazilwood or pernumbuco (carmel
to deep brown), cocobolo (very rich brown
to almost black), Magassar ebony (black
to rich brown). Burled rosewood also
makes for attractive finished inlays. Our
domestic species, such as walnut, osage
orange, cherry and apple will also add a
great deal of colour to your inlay projects.
TOOLS AND ACCESSORIES
Super glues are available in various
thickness or densities – thin, medium and
thick. I use the thin-density glue for
hardwoods with a close grain (such as
hard maple, beech and birch) and the
medium or heavy-weight glue for woods
having a wider more porous grain (such as
oak, ash and some cuts of walnut).
Plug cutters are required. Important: use
the straight cutter as opposed to the
tapered cutter. Tapered cutters will not
give you a tight inlay and, depending on
the manufacture, the taper will not match
the exactness of the forstner style bit,
creating an inlay with gaps.
When choosing your cutters you have
the choice of metric or imperial measured
diameters I choose the imperial measured
diameters. Plug cutters come in diameter
cuts of 1”, 7/8”, 3/4”, 5/8,” 1/2”, 7/16”
3/8”, and 1/4”. With these sizes you can
create almost any type of inlay.
CANADIAN WOODWORKING 31
DESIGNS
Although the inlay designs are quite easy
and uncomplicated, the number of design
creations are endless. Especially when
using exotic woods with their natural
colour.
Shown are sample drawings or patterns
which I use for some of my designs. They
are drawn with the use of various
templates. When your inlay becomes a
little more complex its best to number
each plug so you know which plug to inlay
first. This will help you to overlap each
insert in order.
FIRST STEPS
Match your forstner bit size with your
plug cutters; get thin and medium
viscosity glue; have a smaller clamp
handy; and precut a number of different
size plugs – if for no other reason than to
have a ready supply available for your
inlays.
CUTTING
When cutting your wood plugs, cut 1/16”
and 1/8” thick strips from 1 1/2” to 2”
thick stock. This allows for easy plug
cutting through a thinner material. A plug
1/16” or 1/8” thick is sufficient in
thickness for most of your inlaying.
Sometimes you may find it necessary to
cut 1/4” or even 3/8” thick plugs. If you
decide to get into curvature inlay work you
will want enough material to file and sand
32 CANADIAN WOODWORKING
to produce curved, convexed or concaved
work.
When plug cutting hardwoods, reduce
the speed of your drill press to avoid
burning the edge from your cutter. When
cutting softwoods you can maintain your
drill press’s normal rpms.
The “swirl” design is very easy to do and
very attractive.
INLAY
Once you have decided which inlay
pattern to go with, you have all your plugs
ready and you have your pattern drawn on
a piece of wood, then you can begin to
drill your first inlaid piece (or plug) with
your forstner bit. Be careful not to drill
deeper than the thickness of your plug.
REMEMBER it’s better to sand off than to
fill in.
I used a piece of birdseye maple to inlay.
It has a close grain and is quite dense so I
used the thin viscosity super glue. Drill the
first cavity and quickly brush the piece of
padauk with sandpaper to remove natural
surface oils. This ensures better adhesion.
With this type of “swirl” design it isn’t
necessary to draw anymore circles. Just let
the forstner bit do your circle drawing and
follow the circumference of the large
circle.
Evenly distribute just a few drops of glue
in each cavity, to secure your inlay. Press-
fit your plug and then, quickly, clamp for
10 or 15 seconds.
Use walnut, or wood with a contrasting
colour, for your second plug. Make a
second cut partially overlapping your first
inlay. Repeat this around the circle using
alternating wood colours. You may wish to
add an ebony inlay with every fourth inlay.
Remember to clamp each inlay, or press
firmly with your finger for the required
time.
Some of the hardwoods will
TIP adhere faster if you roughen the
plug to be inlaid on a piece of
sandpaper. Because cyanoacrylate glues
are somewhat sensitive to acids and
moisture in woods, brush each plug with
sandpaper. This removes some of the
natural resin in the exotic woods and
increases adhesion.
Once all your plugs are inlaid you may
wish to go a step further and inlay the last
1” diameter plug with smaller inlays. Sand
and finish for exquisite results.
There are a couple of things to
TIP be mindful of when applying a
finish to your creation. Using a
lacquer coating with a nitro cellulose (a
type of an industrial solvent base) can
force the natural colour out of some of
your exotic woods such as padauk and
purple heart. Therefore, it is generally
best to apply a very light coat of lacquer
over your inlay. Allow it to dry, then apply
the desired number of coats. You may
wish to use a urethane finish, which has
an oil base and is less harmful to the
wood. Hand rub each coat with a least
0000 steel wool to produce a much nicer
finish.
JOHN CRYDERMAN is a boomerang maker,
woodworker and woodshow promoter from Chatham ON,
www.boomerangs.com
email:john@chathamwoodshow.com
Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com
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Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com CANADIAN WOODWORKING 33
Canadian Woodworking Home-made Jig Contest
To enter, send in a picture or diagram (with an explanation) of your
home-made woodworking jig. If Lou Peeters chooses your jig as
“Canadian Woodworking’s favourite”, your jig will be published in
Canadian Woodworking Magazine. You will also receive a prize from
one of our sponsors.
(Prizes have a retail value of approx. $250)
Contest prizes will be awarded bi-monthly.

Enter now! Enter often!

THE FIRST PRIZE Lou Peeters, Jig Judge

DEWALT’S NEW XRP Send a picture/diagram of your
home-made jig and explanation to:
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Model DW980K-2 c/o Lou Peeters
RR #7, Woodstock, ON N4S 7W2

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34 CANADIAN WOODWORKING Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com

toolreview BY CARL DUGUAY

Gift Ideas
H
ere are some great gift of the handles, and individual springs hold These clamps are priced competitively
ideas for the woodworker blades in place so that you don’t get a with Bessey K-Body clamps; a 24” clamp,
on your Christmas clump of blades. I found this feature of the for example, will cost about $52.
shopping list. SwissTool more to my liking. (www.grossstabil.com, 800-671-0838 for
Every woodworker will These tools are widely available at a current list of resellers).
appreciate the versatility and usefulness of sporting good and hardware stores.
a multi-tool. Twenty-five-year guarantee on the The ShopStrop, from Pacific Rack and
Two of the leading brands on the market Leatherman, lifetime on the Victorinox. Machine, has got to be one of the handiest
are Leatherman and Victorinox. You can Both come with carrying cases. You can’t (and fastest) sharpening systems I’ve used
select from dozens of different go wrong with either of these beauties. in years. A 2” long hex arbor mounts in
configurations of multi-tools; the two that (SuperTool 200, $99.99, your drill press, which you’ll set to run at
I looked at were the Leatherman Super www.leatherman.com, 800-847-8665; the slowest speed. There is a 1/8” thick
Tool 200 (top photo) and the Victorinox SwissTool, $124.00, www.swissarmy.ca, piece of leather attached to the MDF base
SwissTool (bottom photo). I used both 800-665-4095) of the ShopStrop. With a dab of the
these professional supplied honing compound you’ll achieve
level tools Gross Stabil, a leading manufacturer of a mirror finish on just about any cutting
extensively over a clamps, has just introduced what are, in tool in a matter of sec-
two-week period, my opinion, one of the best clamps on the onds. If you need to
and can find good market. regrind, simply attach a
reasons for The PC2 line of parallel clamps with cloth backed sanding
purchasing either jaws 1 3/4” x 5 1/2” and bar lengths from disk (supplied) to the
tool. In the shop or 12” to 100” long, will handle just about all aluminium platen
on the work site they your clamping needs. You can exert up to and grind away.
are eminently useful. 1100 lbs of clamping pressure, which is Self-adhesive disks
These are substantial adequate for most glue-ups. The 3/8” x 1 are available from 120
tools, 4 1/2” in length, 1/8” galvanized steel rails show minimal to 600 grit (or you can do
about 9 oz., and bending over long lengths even at the up your own). If you can do without
constructed of maximum clamping pressure. hollow grinding, this is an economical,
stainless steel. Both The clamping jaws are covered with a easy way to sharpen! ($29.95,
have some two polyamide 6.6 grade of 1A plastic, www.bigleg.com, toll free 877-220-2699)
dozen functions, reinforced with 50% long-fibre fiberglass. Hi-Gage Enterprises makes a great
including pliers, The hardwood handles are a generous multi-function attachment for your
plain and serrated 4 3/4” long and the clamping pads are combination square. The Hi-Gage SQ1
knives, file, ruler, replaceable. (shown attached on the right of the combo
screwdrivers and open- Over the last month I have used the PC2 square in the photo) fits on a standard
ers (the SwissTool even clamps on a wide range of applications, combo square, turning it into an
comes with a 1/4” chisel). and have been extremely pleased with inexpensive, accurate height gauge.
The knife blades hold an their performance. The jaws slide As well as using it to set the height
edge well (I used them to smoothly along the rail. I can vouch for of your table saw blade or router
cut vinyl, gyprock, their durability as well, bit, you can set the width of cut on
carpeting and a range of other having accidentally your table saw, the drilling depth
materials) and the 2 3/4” saws easily cut dropped of them onto a on your drill press, measure
through a piece of 2x4. The hardened wire concrete floor without material thickness and even
cutters made quick work of 10-gauge wire any damage to the use it as a calliper. The SQ1
and brass rod, and I could exert a jaws. is well machined and runs
considerable amount of torque on nuts and What makes these smoothly along the
bolts with the pliers. Open a blade and it clamps so handy is the combo square blade. A
locks into position; press a lock release fact that you don’t highly functional
and fold the blade away. need to use spacer tool that will get a
The major difference that I could see blocks to protect your lot of use in the
with these tools is that with the Super Tool work from the jaws, shop. ($29.95,
200 you open the tool handles to access and the clamps do a www.leevalley.com,
the blades. Pulling on one blade causes all great job of squaring 800-267-8761)
the adjacent blades to move out. On the up your work.
SwissTool the blades open on the outside Simply the best! CARL DUGUAY is a writer and woodworker from
Saanich, British Columbia. 250-655-6480 carl@finewoodworking.ca

Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com CANADIAN WOODWORKING 35

 OVER 120 PATTERNS FOR
EVERY INTEREST
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DUST SYSTEM CONSULTATION, DESIGN AND INSTALLATION

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Email: chester.van@sympatico.ca

36 CANADIAN WOODWORKING Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com

dustcollection
Design Considerations
I
am always glad to see and talk to so
many woodworkers at wood shows
and meet those who have read the
articles in this magazine or have
seen my postings on the wood
forum.
One of the most common questions
asked at the woodworking shows is: “I’m
just finishing up building my shop and the
first thing I want to purchase is a dust
collector. What do you recommend?”
LAYOUT
If you have just built your shop and don’t
have all your equipment, you need to sit
down and figure out what size of tools you
have or will require. You can use
cardboard cutouts of the tools (using the
actual foot print size), placing them on the
floor of the shop to aid in developing the
layout. Locate the dust collector nearest
the door that you will use to remove the
waste from it. The last thing you want to
do is haul your waste through the shop or
down stairs. You should locate your
thickness planer or thickness sander
closest to your collector. The size of these
two machines basically determines the
size of dust collector you will need.
Proper layout of you tools will help you
to ease the flow of materials through the
shop, while aiding in reducing the lengths
of “pipe runs” to your equipment.
VENTING
One woodworker informed me that he
located his collector in the garage in a
closet. (His shop is in the basement). He
added that he had vented the closet back to
the shop in the basement. While it is true
that you must return the air immediately to
the shop from the dust collector you must
realize that this may create a potentially
dangerous situation. For example, if you
don’t bring the air back in, then you are
putting the house under a negative and,
therefore, air will come in wherever
possible. The most likely source of air is
down chimneys and vents. This can suck
in harmful products of combustion.
However, the above woodworker had
vented the closet back to the basement,
which would solve that particular
problem. The next concern is to ensure
that the closet is sealed, so that gasoline
fumes and CO2 from an auto’s exhaust
Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com
BY CHESTER VAN NESS
can’t migrate down to the basement (one
isn’t healthy to breath and the other could
relocate the shop, if it finds an ignition
source). Be aware that if you choose this
type of installation, you may be voiding
your insurance policy.
PIPING
Another woodworker informed me that
he was finishing off his shop and had been
thinking of running those unsightly pipes
up through the (unheated) attic. I
reminded him that we live in Canada and
when warm moist wood shavings and air
meet freezing metal pipes, the result is
wood-cicles. He stated that he had that
covered because he would run the piping
between the rafters and under the
insulation. This might alleviate the
temperature change but you still need to be
mindful of how high you’re trying to lift
shavings. Such height would limit the
layout of his system and necessitate the
use of the more expensive long radius 90-
degree elbows when dropping through the
ceiling. After doing all this work, if he
were to purchase other pieces of
equipment, then he would have great
difficulty in adapting the system.
It is best to stay around the 10-foot mark
in height for piping. Develop a system that
is user friendly when it comes to making
changes and additions to your shop.
Turn a couple of inexpensive
TIP heating and ventilating boots
into productive dust collection
hoods.
These “boots” are normally used for
delivering air via the floor/ceiling registers
in a forced air heating
system. The boots
come in a variety of
sizes and can be
easily adapted
for our use.
The first
one we’ll
look at is
the “angle
boot”.
Insert either a sheet metal or wooden
baffle into the normal register opening to
strengthen the boot and increase the
velocity at this opening.
This particular boot is 2 1/4”W x 14”L
with a 4” outlet. Insert at least a 1” baffle
along what will be the upper edge of the
opening. You can bend up a 1” baffle from
sheet metal and pop-rivet it in place. (You
can use a piece of wood 1” x 3/4” x 14”L).
The other thing that you will have to do
is crimp the 4” diameter outlet so that you
can insert it into your 4” straight pipe.
Next, connect to a blast gate (or shut-off
gate) locating it about waist level for ease
of operation.
Installing a
blast gate in
the line
gives a
m o r e
p o s i t ive
seal than
a flap on
the sweep.
The second boot that I want to show you
will require little or no modification. It is
called an “end boot”.
This boot is 4”W x 12”L with a 5” outlet
and it can be used for the radial arm saw.
The small port in your radial arm saw’s
blade cover will have to either be directed
into this chute or blocked off. You will
need to crimp the 5” diameter outlet on the
boot and use a 5”-4” reducer so that you
can hook up to your 4” piping. You will
also need to place the saw in the parked
position and then attach the hood to your
table as close to the saw and the vertical
column as possible.
CHESTER VAN NESS is a Dust Removal Consultant in
Scotland, Ontario. (519) 484-2284 chester.van@sympatico.ca
CANADIAN WOODWORKING 37
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38 CANADIAN WOODWORKING Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com
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bookreview BY MICHEL THERIAULT

The Router Book

A Complete Guide to the
Router and It’s Accessories

T
he Router is one of the most type, including their primary uses and
versatile tools in the limitations. He also provides some
workshop, capable of many buying tips as well as identifying his
tasks. This book by Pat router preferences in a way that gives
Warner, who is a specialist you an opportunity to decide which is
on routers, covers all the bases (see best for you.
contents below). The next topic is about the Router Table. The next two chapters focus on
Pat begins with some fundamentals on Extensive information on design of a accessories and jigs, both store-bought and
the router, discussing the various router table, including the tabletop shop-made. This includes guides, bases,
applications and types of routing jobs. material is useful for anyone planning on chip collection, circle routing, tenon
This includes decoration, millwork and making their own. Various options for a making, mortising and more. A
joinery, where the route really excels. He fence are presented, from the dead simple, photograph accompanies each jig, detailed
covers the issues around hand routing, to the complex. Pat then reviews safety, illustration you can follow in order to
plunge routing and table routing, setting identifying dangerous situations, which make it yourself, and tops for their use.
the stage for the following chapters that may not be obvious. A full chapter on router safety is
deal with specific topics in more detail. The router table is followed up with the presented, followed by a discussion on
Each chapter is well illustrated with colour business end of the router, the router bits. router issues such as risks, problems and
photographs. A discussion about performance, life and ergonomics. Following this is a discussion
The next 12 chapters start with a materials provides a better understanding on starting the router and finally, details on
discussion on controlling the router. He about the choices that have to be made template routing.
explains how important direction of cut is, when buying bits. As well, the shank
MICHEL THERIAULT is a writer and woodworker living
along with various ways to make sure it diameter and types are reviewed, followed in Guelph, Ontario. www. woodstoneproductions.com
goes where you want it, including by a very short discussion on sharpening. mjtheriault@sympatico.ca
template guides, bits with bearings and
finally, edge guides. He gives tips and CONTENTS: Laminating Trim Routers * Shop-made Mortiser
techniques to ensure you get the best * Guide Systems * Tenon Maker
Introduction to Routing
possible results. * Applications * Other Features & Applications * End-Lap Template
Different types of routers are discussed * Types of Routing Router Tables
* Adjustable Tenon Maker
* Circle Maker
in the next three chapters. Pat discusses the Cutter Pathway Control * Router Table Basics
* Router Horse
advantages and disadvantages of each * Bearing Guided Cutters * The Fence
* Pin-Routing Jig
* Collar Guides * Protection from the Cutter
* 45 Degree Bevel
* Edge Guides * Depth of Cut Strategies
BOOK TYPE Technique/Info * The Sub base
* Tool Shank
* Climb Cutting
* The Miter Gauge
Router Safety
* Hand Router Safety
LEVEL All Levels * The Circle Cutter
* Other Guide Options
* Router Table Safety * Router Table Safety
* Climb Cutting
Router Bits
AUTHOR Pat Warner Fixed Base Routers * Evaluating Performance
* Stock Preparation
* Cutter Surprises and Risks
* Router Basics * Cutter Life
PUBLISHER The Taunton Press * Leading Fixed Base Routers * Materials
* Health Concerns
* Department Store Routers * Shank Diameter Common Router Limitations
SOFTCOVER, 8.25" x 10.", 185 PAGES (FULL COLOUR PHOTOS), $32.50 CDN * Best Fixed Base Applications * Cutter Types * Risks and Problems
* Sharpening * Weight and Ergonomics
ABOUT THE BOOK’S AUTHOR: Plunge Routers
Pat Warner has written over 70 * Basic Anatomy Router Accessories Starting up the Router
* Power as an Asset * Guides and Bases * Preparation and Setup
articles on routers for various
* Adding Stability * Router Table Accessories * Router Table Setup
magazines in addition to writing four * Helpful Features * Chip Collection
other books. In addition to writing, he Template Routing
* Best Uses for Plunge Routers
Simple Shop-made Jigs * Tools and Materials
has produced three router videos,
* Right Angle Templates * Template Uses and Types
teaches routing and makes furniture, * Slot Makers * Making Basic Templates
jigs and accessories for the router.

40 CANADIAN WOODWORKING Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com

 FT 2000EP - 3 1/4 HP, 15 AMP, 1/2" Plunge Router
• Electronic variable speed control (8,000-22,000) maintains
constant speed and power under load
• Includes: 1/4" reducer and edge guide
• Large micro-adjustment knob simplifies setting of bit height
• American Woodworker Magazine “Best Buy” Award
JS102 - 5 AMP Adjustable Fence Biscuit Joiner
• Premium adjustable fence with positive detents at 0, 45, and
90 degrees for easy and precise adjustments
• 6 depth settings (0, 10, 20, A, B, and MAX)
• Model JS100 is the same except the front angle plate
adjustment (0, 45, and 90 degree angles exclusively)
• American Woodworker Magazine “Best Buy” Award

YOU’LL LEAVE OTHERS IN

YOUR DUST
FJ85 – 6 AMP Heavy Duty
Variable Speed Jigsaw
• Quick-Fix blade change
FE82 – 6 AMP, 3 1/4"
Portable Planer
• Cuts up to 3 1/4" wide and 3/32" deep
system provides easy tool for fast stock removal
free blade change • Includes fence and rabbeting guide
• Variable speed electronic (maximum rabbeting depth = 1 inch)
switch (500-3,000 RPM) • Reversible carbide knives for extended
with Lock-in constant speed life and reduced down time
feature (Maintains Speed • Dial adjustment with positive detents for
Under Load) to reduce quick and accurate depth adjustment
chipping and splintering (1 full turn = 1/25")
• 4 orbital settings
• Accepts Bosch® shank blades
• American Woodworker
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10" Worksite Table Saw
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25" of Rip Capacity Rip Fence
Square-Lock™ technology aligns and
Rear Outfeed Support* locks rip fence front and back
Extends working depth to 39 1/2"

Left Side
Support* Carries
Easily Rips Through 2" Oak Extends width of
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Comfortably
Molded grip areas
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On-Tool
Storage
Rip fence and miter
gauge lock in place
4.4 HP,
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15 Amp Motor
Transports Easily Most powerful in its class
Soft Start
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Provides smoother start-ups
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Torque Response
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Monitors torque demand and
instantly delivers additional power
Won’t bog down in hardwoods
*Shown with optional accessories Folding Stand*
Sets up in seconds,
Portable Folding Stand folds for easy storage
Rear Outfeed Support Extension
Left Side Support Extension