WIN £5K CARIBBEAN HOLIDAY

ON SALE 1-31 AUGUST 2019 £4.60

l l

BE A BETTER COOK Expert know-how: barbecue like a pro Step-by-step: apricot

l l

frangipane tart l Technique: how to prep squid l Get it right: perfectly poached eggs
 WELCOME TO
August
It’s a shock when we get a sudden
spell of hot weather, isn’t it? So eagerly Follow Karen
awaited, yet before you know it we’re all on Twitter
@deliciouseditor
muttering about the humidity levels. Let’s and on Instagram
face it, working in an office on a bright day @editorkarenb

is a kind of torment, made more acute

because you know everything might have
changed by the weekend.
The moment the sun’s out, thoughts turn to the garden and to
PS This
month’s
subscription
offer on p78
outdoor eating: a marinated chicken or rack of ribs sizzling away is a cracker:
to succulent perfection on the barbecue... Or, as dusk falls and subscribe to
fairy lights twinkle in the trees, pizzas browning in an outdoor delicious. and
receive a £75
oven. Or a basktetful of vibrant-hued tomatoes, slow-roasted, voucher to spend
sticky and sweet. Or a sharp-sweet scoop of ice cream (I’m in Majestic stores.
thinking plum) nestling between two chewy cookies: a sublime
sandwich, the ice cream dripping down your fingers as it melts
in the heat of the day. Or a paella, cooked on the barbie if you’re
brave, the smell of it transporting you straight back to the
memories of holidays past. Or a frangipane tart, pastry delicate,
almondy filling yielding – the finest showcase for high-summer
apricots that, in the UK, always taste better cooked.
You’ll find all these delights – and many more – in this
beautiful August issue, each recipe designed to bring sunshine
to your table, whether or not it’s sunny outside. I, for one, will
be savouring the moment – with a glass in hand – and I wish you
a month filled eriences to remember.
PHOTOGRAPHS: GARETH MORGANS, SUE LACEY PHOTOGRAPHY

KAREN BARNES, EDITOR

My star ingredient for June

Raspberries: I love their sweet-sharp flavour and their
versatility; their affinity with peaches and mint; the way
the flavour shines through in ice cream and sorbet... Here
is summer in a flavour bomb – a fruit that’s as good cooked
as it is fresh (which you can’t say about strawberries).

Turn the page for this month’s super-easy recipe →

25 WAYS TO MAKE THE MOST OF
summer
Long days, warm nights, holidays… Celebrate everything that’s
good about the season and plan something grand – or low-key
7 GREAT OUTINGS to enjoy and remember
FEASTING FOR A CAUSE Raise a glass
of natural wine (with no additives)
at a magical outdoor meal in the
woodlands of East Lothian. Held in
aid of the World Land Trust, which
works to protect threatened global
habitats, there’ll be music, a talk on
foraging and a feast of vegan and
vegetarian food cooked over the fire.
A donation of £50 from each ticket
sold will be made to the charity.
7 September, 5-11.30pm, £120;
themadmarchhare.com.
CINEMA UNDER THE STARS National
Trust properties across the country,
including Speke Hall in Liverpool
and Mottistone Gardens and Estate
on the Isle of Wight, are hosting
open-air film screenings this
summer. Take a picnic to enjoy
with favourites such as Top Gun,
Grease, The Greatest Showman and
Mamma Mia: Here We Go Again.
From £11; nationaltrust.org.uk
PLAN A WALK WITH PUB STOPS chosen
from Sawday’s Great British Pub
Guide (£14.99). It’s a collection
of 500 UK pubs chosen for their
character, real ales, quality food
and atmosphere. There are handy
lists of the best for walkers, Sunday
lunches and waterside dining.
TAKE A GIN CRUISE on 1938 motor
yacht the Dorset Queen with Conker
Dine out in Spirit, where you’ll learn the history
the wilds of of gin and sip cocktails as you
East Lothian cruise Poole Harbour. Dock for a
with a
difference three-course meal at a harbourside
restaurant before it’s back on board
4 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
for a cocktail made with Conker
Cold Brew Coffee Liqueur.
Selected Thursdays, from £125
including a 70cl bottle of gin to
take home; dorsetcruises.co.uk
GOING TO MARKET Based on the
Balcaskie Estate in Fife, producer
hub Bowhouse is home to an
organic brewery, a flour mill that
uses heritage grains grown on the
farm and a traditional butcher.
Its monthly market weekends are
chock-full of rural talent; August
will focus on dairy, with milk,
ice cream and cheese from Fife.
10-11 August; bowhousefife.com
A VINE DAY OUT Experience Cornwall’s
blossoming wine scene with a
full-day vineyard tour taking in at
least three wineries, with tastings.
Lunch at one of the winery
restaurants is included. Pick-up
is in Padstow and you’ll be
ferried between venues.
Wednesdays and Fridays, £125;
cornishwinetours.com
JOURNEY OF A LIFETIME Say farewell
to summer in spectacular fashion
by boarding the Belmond British
Pullman train from London Victoria,
where Michel Roux Jr will be taking
the culinary helm on 20 September.
Five courses will be served with
wine pairings, while the train
wends its way through the
countryside. There are also
murder-mystery lunches and
trips to beautiful UK cities.
From £495; belmond.com
 take a moment.

3 OF THE BEST LIDOS with excellent menus

JUBILEE POOL, PENZANCE, CORNWALL This spectacular Art Deco
saltwater lido opened in 1935. Its recently refurbished café and
kitchen charms with views of St Michael’s Mount and makes use
of Cornish produce. Expect homemade sausage rolls and inventive
cakes, with cocktails and pizzas in the evening.
jubileepool.co.uk

BRISTOL LIDO A classy outdoor heated pool, plus a restaurant serving

Spanish and North African-inspired dishes. There’s a poolside bar too.
Its similarly stylish sister site, Thames Lido in Reading, is Grade II-listed
and reopened in 2017 after closing in 1974. A wood-fired oven and
charcoal grill give the restaurant and tapas bar’s food extra flair. It
can be tricky to swim if you’re not a member as there are limited
public hours. Best option: pre-book a Swim & Eat package.
lidobristol.com; thameslido.com

HATHERSAGE SWIMMING POOL, PEAK DISTRICT Set in a village, this outdoor

heated pool is close to the station, with links to Manchester and
Sheffield. It’s bordered by the Pool Café, a good old-fashioned tea
room with popular fish-and-chip nights on Wednesdays and Fridays.
hathersageswimmingpool.co.uk; facebook.com/hathersagepoolcafe

• For lidos with picnicking spots, visit deliciousmagazine.co.uk/lidos

3 SPOTS FOR WILD SWIMMING with nearby eateries

GRANTCHESTER MEADOWS, CAMBRIDGE centre on the sandy beach is home to

Southwest of the city centre, the the Boathouse Café, serving snacks and
grassy-banked River Cam is popular cakes. Wetsuits are available for hire
with swimmers, who share it with too. A 20-minute drive away is Aviemore’s
WORDS: PHOEBE STONE. PHOTOGRAPHS: ADAM GIBBARD, TOBY SCOTT. ILLUSTRATION: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES

punts and picnickers. Upstream is
Byron’s Pool nature reserve, where
the Romantic poet reportedly
swam. Keep the literary theme
going and have tea and cake
beneath the trees at The Orchard
Tea Garden, accessible
from the river and
once the haunt of poet
Rupert Brooke and
author Virginia Woolf.
theorchardteagarden.
co.uk
LOCH MORLICH, CAIRNGORMS
NATIONAL PARK Brace
yourself for a dip in the
loch’s icy-cold waters,
surrounded by rugged
mountains. A watersports
• Visit outdoorswimmingsociety.com for more locations and details on safe wild swimming
Mountain Café, known for its sunny,
Kiwi-inspired food. Bread and pastries
are home-baked, and you can
take away a packed lunch.
lochmorlich.com;
mountaincafe-aviemore.co.uk
GLASBURY, NEAR
HAY-ON-WYE A wide
pebble beach gives
on to the River Wye at
Glasbury Bridge – perfect for
paddling. Across the water is
the River Café, with a relaxed,
bunting-bedecked terrace,
where the menu
is enriched with
local goodies.
wyevalleycanoes.co.uk/
river-cafe.html
2 FOOD PROJECTS
FREEZE FLORAL ICE CUBES TO JAZZ UP
GIN AND TONICS Fill an ice-cube tray
a third full of water (use filtered or
boiled, cooled water for a clearer cube),
then freeze until set. Place an edible
flower on each cube, cover with water
and freeze. Sainsbury’s sells a selection
of edible blossoms (£3 for 10g).
PICK YOUR OWN FRUIT Berries harvested
by hand are all the sweeter for it. Find
a directory of UK places to get picking
at deliciousmagazine.co.uk/pickyourown.
Wild blackberries (brambles) are in
season from the end of August, too. →

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 5
take a moment.
2 INSPIRING READS perfect for the holidays
A HALF BAKED IDEA
(FIG TREE £14.99)
This debut book from
barrister-turned-
food-writer Olivia
Potts recounts her
journey from the Bar
to Le Cordon Bleu
following the death
of her mother. Potts’
honest and, at times, humorous writing
on grief and the absorbing minutiae of
cooking is peppered with great recipes.
4 FUN FESTIVALS with feasting, music and more
PX+ FESTIVAL, SAWBRIDGEWORTH,
HERTFORDSHIRE (17-19 AUGUST)
This excellent farm-based festival
celebrates chefs and restaurants
as well as farmers and producers.
Day ticket, £60; weekend, £120 (including
free breakfast); pxplusfestival.com
THE BIG FEASTIVAL, KINGHAM, OXFORDSHIRE
(23-25 AUGUST) A foodie knees-up on
musician-turned-cheesemaker Alex James’s
farm. Alongside music and a funfair,
expect pop-up eateries and top chefs.
Day ticket, £74; weekend, £164.50;
thebigfeastival.com
CLOCKWISE FROM RIGHT
Tuck into seasonal
flavours at River
Cottage Festival;
The Big Feastival
6 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
ADVENTURES
OF THE YORKSHIRE
SHEPHERDESS
(PAN MACMILLAN
£18.99)
Amanda Owen
captures what she
calls the “splendid
isolation” of
remote countryside living in her
third book on the realities of rural
life as a tenant farmer (and mother of
nine children) in the Yorkshire Dales.
RIVER COTTAGE FESTIVAL, AXMINSTER, DEVON
(24-25 AUGUST) Join Hugh F-W and culinary
friends for workshops and discussions about
sustainability and wellbeing, then enjoy lunch
or an evening feast cooked over the fire.
Day ticket, £25; weekend, £95;
rivercottage.net/festival
THE GOOD LIFE EXPERIENCE, HAWARDEN, WALES
(12-15 SEPTEMBER) Meet weavers, potters
and distillers and try their craft, or take a dip
in the lake while Olia Hercules, Tom Hunt
and Signe Johansen cook over the campfire.
Saturday ticket, £89; weekend, from £119;
thegoodlifeexperience.co.uk
family fun at
READY IN FIVE
Whizz up a cheat’s
raspberry ice cream
Pulse 600ml double cream
in a processor with 2 tbsp
icing sugar until stiff peaks
form. Add 350g frozen
raspberries – or berries
of your choice, whizz
until smooth,
then taste and
add more
icing sugar if
needed. Serve
with ginger biscuits.
3 ACTIVITIES that
don’t cost a thing
ICE CREAM RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH. STYLING: LUIS PERAL. ICE CREAM PHOTOGRAPH: GARETH MORGANS.
ENJOY THEATRE AND MUSIC Summer
by the River is London’s biggest
free arts festival. It takes place
on the Thames by Tower Bridge
and includes performances
of Twelfth Night, family film
screenings and music.
londonbridgecity.co.uk/events
OTHER PHOTOGRAPHS: GARY PERLMUTTER, GOBINDER JHITTA, MATT AUSTIN, GILES SMITH
WATCH SHOOTING STARS This year,
the Perseid meteor shower is most
active between 9-14 August when
up to 100 shooting stars can be seen
per hour. You’ll need a clear night
and a light pollution-free viewing
spot, then wrap up warm and enjoy.
Find a guide to meteor-spotting at
metoffice.gov.uk/events/perseid-
meteor-shower
MAKE A SUMMER PLAYLIST What
songs sound like summer to you?
Compile them into a playlist or
listen to the delicious. team’s
selection at open.spotify.com/
user/delicious.magazine

62
ON THE COVER
VALENCIAN SEAFOOD NOODLE PAELLA, p30
Recipe & food styling Jen Bedloe
Photograph Toby Scott
Styling Olivia Wardle
8 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
118
54 44
AUGUS T 2019
CONTENTS
YOUR RECIPE INSPIR ATION
28 ALWAYS A WINNER Paella: three versions
of the ultimate one-pan meal
32 PLAY IT COOL Georgina Hayden takes
a chilled approach to summer recipes
41 A COOK’S YEAR Gill Meller slow-roasts
tomatoes for a satisfying summer dish
44 HOW TO THROW THE BEST PARTY OF SUMMER
Serve up fragrant homemade pizzas
at a communal table under the stars
52 ROAST OF THE MONTH Spatchcocked
chicken with North African spices
54 SPEEDY, SIMPLE... GREAT Make it
easy with John Whaite’s
flash-in-the-pan stovetop recipes
70 TASTES LIKE HOME Irina Georgescu
returns to her roots in Bucharest and
her mother’s Romanian chicken stew
76 KAY & FRED’S MOVIE NIGHT Dive into
the all-star remake of Ocean’s Eleven
– with a prawn cocktail on the side
BE A BE T TER COOK
106 IN THE delicious. KITCHEN Tips, tricks
and know-how from our experts
111 CHEF’S STEP BY STEP Re-create David
Gingell’s apricot and frangipane tart
RE AD ALL ABOUT IT
10 INBOX What’s on your mind this month?
13 FOR STARTERS The latest news,
food trends and a quiz
16 A SLICE OF MY LIFE Pastry chef Dominique
Ansel on life beyond the cronut
17 WISH LIST Our editor Karen’s choice
of beautiful and useful buys
21 KITCHEN TREASURE Martha Collison reveals
the utensil she wouldn’t be without
22 THE JOY OF COOKING WITH OTHERS Keen cook
Debora Robertson hails the simple
pleasures of kitchen companionship
62 ITALY’S LIQUID GOLD The wonders of balsamic
vinegar, plus star recipes by Theo Randall
 T HE
delicious.
PROMISE
RECIPES THAT WORK Every
21
recipe is rigorously tested
by our food team, using
state-of-the-art Fisher &
Paykel ovens and hobs,
so you can be confident
they work every time.
INGREDIENTS We aim to use
easy-to-find seasonal
ingredients. We’ll tell you
where to find any unusual
ingredients and/or what to
substitute them with.
We use higher-welfare
meat for testing, supplied
by The Ginger Pig. Check
out their online shop:

32 70 thegingerpig.co.uk
HONEST COOKING TIMES
Unlike many magazines,
our timings include
prep such as chopping.
Hands-on time is when
you’re chopping, stirring
or frying. Oven/simmering
time is when you can
72 FOOD HERO Wye Valley Salads, purveyor leave the dish in the oven
of wild and wonderful seasonal leaves or on the hob.
22 PAGES OUR SYMBOLS EXPLAINED
80 WHAT TO DRINK Susy Atkins’ top bottles, Make it
EVERY DAY with no fads Vegetarian recipe
plus ideas for sipping with steak F O R A B R I G H T, F E E L G O O D A U G U S T

d. MEAL
PLANNER
BRING SUMMER
HOME p84
or false health Vegan recipe
114 TEST REPORT The team put a cheesemaking
M dweek recipes with a taste of the Med

Gluten-free recipe
NEED HELP DECIDING
WHAT TO COOK?

claims, just
Try our delicious STICKY BBQ RIBS p90
Meal Planner for Make double and freeze half
tailormade recipe
choices plus one click
shopping for all
the ingredients VEGGIE HEAVEN p98
It couldn t be easier! Outstanding recipes from a Greek kitchen

course, new cookbooks and shop-bought

deliciousmaga ine co uk/meal lan er

Dairy-free recipe
nutritious
YOGURT POPS p103
wi h a p ña colada vibe

✪ Find more ideas for

vanilla ice creams through their paces recipes and using this ingredient on
118 HUNGRY TRAVELLER A seafood-packed informed our Loose Ends page.
TURN THE PAGE FOR THE REC PES →
Indicates you can freeze
journey along Denmark’s Jutland Peninsula know-how all or most of the recipe.
124 GREAT ESCAPES Gravetye Manor, Sussex Unless stated, freeze the
82 THE HEALTH DEBRIEF Insight and news finished dish for up to
130 A GOOD RANT The dark side of afternoon tea 3 months. Defrost and
84 TASTE OF THE MED Bring home those holiday heat until piping hot.
When you see this
OTHER GOOD THINGS flavours to enhance weeknight meals KNOW- symbol, you’ll find
HOW
88 LEFTOVERS RECIPE Chicken burrito bowl useful information
20 COOK IT LIKE delicious. ...and win a set about the recipe.
90 BATCH COOK Double up on slow-cooked ribs This symbol means
of Circulon cookware and bakeware MAKE you’ll find an option
for a midweek barbie AHEAD
24 READER EVENT A special one-off celebration to make part or all
92 BUDGET RECIPE Sweet potato nachos of the recipe in advance.
with cookery legend Delia Smith
NUTRITIONAL INFORMATION
78 SUBSCRIPTION OFFER FREE £75 Majestic 93 THE 5:2 RECIPE Chilli tofu veg ‘noodles’ Recipes are analysed for
nutritional content by an
voucher when you subscribe 94 TAKE A PACK OF... Juicy corn on the cob expert nutritionist. They’re
104 LOOSE ENDS Use up this month’s leftovers 96 THE SANE VIEW Is cannabis oil just a fad? calculated with precision
but may vary, depending
117 COMING NEXT MONTH 98 V IS FOR VEGETARIAN Heather Thomas’s on the ingredients used.
Calculations include only
recipes are full of Greek sunshine
123 JUST FOR YOU Win a Jamaican getaway listed ingredients.
103 PLANT-BASED RECIPE Piña colada yogurt pops PRICES are correct at
128 FOOD LOVER’S CROSSWORD time of going to press.
129 RECIPE INDEX

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 9
have your say.

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FROM OUR
SUBJECT: Where has your SUBJECT: The end of the veggie burger?
delicious. been? FROM: Julia Barrow
FROM: Andrew Dorman I read with delight your news story
Like a lot of people, about the proposal put before the
I imagine, I take my European Parliament to ban words
delicious. magazine including ‘burger’ and ‘steak’ from
on holiday to enjoy being used to describe vegetarian
while relaxing. products [July, p12]. It had always
Recently, on a break seemed hypocritical to me that
abroad, I had the STAR a non-meat eater would want to
inspiration for a new feature: ‘Where has EMAIL consume anything that bore any
your delicious. been?’ I attach a photo of resemblance, either in look or
my magazine and what it inspired: we were in description, to a meat product.
Venice staying in an apartment on the Grand Canal What are your
opposite the Rialto Market, where we bought all views? Do you
the ingredients to make this lovely asparagus, pea agree with Julia –
and pancetta risotto. or vehemently
Going on holiday? Send us a snap of your delicious. NOT? Let us
magazine enjoying its travels and we’ll print our know by writing
favourites. Or share it on social media tagging in to info@delicious
@deliciousmag with the hashtag #deliciousontour magazine.co.uk

THIS MONTH’S STAR PRIZE*

Our star email this month
wins a £75 voucher from
wine specialist Majestic.
The experts at Majestic live
and breathe wine and are
passionate about selling
good wines, spirits and
beers. When you visit a store
you’ll find staff are friendly,
enthusiastic and refreshingly
down-to-earth – and keen to
share their knowledge to help
you make the best choice.
majestic.co.uk
SUBJECT: What
about Orkney?
FROM: Paula Hemsley
I live in Orkney, so
imagine my surprise to
read the Hungry Traveller
article on Shetland [June,
p120]. I know I might be
biased, but no one goes
to Shetland for its food.
Orkney, yes. We have
Orkney beef, known
SUBJECT: Cheers!
FROM: Rosalind Whitmore
I enjoyed your article on
elderflower fizz [June, p110] as
I’ve been making it for more
than 40 years. We used to live
in the Lake District where
elder trees probably outnumber
people. One summer we
helped friends to move into an
old farmhouse. It was a hot day
and on a shelf in the pantry we later, we were all very sleepy

WIN! £50 CO-OP

throughout the UK for its found half a dozen cobwebby and ever so slightly woozy.

BE SUPPLIED. ENTRANTS MUST BE OVER 18. FOR FULL TS&CS, TURN TO P129
quality, and our crab and bottles. We dusted them down, We hadn’t realised that the

GIFT CARD TO *A FULL MAINLAND UK DELIVERY ADDRESS AND TELEPHONE NUMBER MUST
lobsters are sold to all UK opened them and sniffed alcohol content of the tasty
supermarkets. Unlike suspiciously. The perfume was fizz had increased as it spent
SPEND IN STORE Shetland, we also have overwhelmingly elderflowery time on the shelf. Thanks for
Great recipes deserve award-winning smoked and soon we were gulping the reminding me of the best
great ingredients. For your cheese and fab ice cream. wonderful brew. Several hours elderflower fizz I ever drank!
chance to win a £50 Co-op
gift card, solve the cryptic
clue on the magazine spine, What YOU’VE been making this month...
then email your answer with
your name, full UK address
and phone number, to
info@delicious magazine.
co.uk. Competition entry
closes 31 August 2019. The
gift card can be used in
Co-op stores only (see p129 Cheese, onion Miso-glazed Harissa chicken, new Jerk chicken and
for Ts&Cs). Solution to June’s and bacon tartlets salmon potato and carrot traybake cauli ‘rice & peas’
cryptic clue: caponata. Sarah Cooke @pudsyoulike Clive Marsh @daviesx4

10 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 FROM YOGA MOVES
TO FINDING YOUR
GROOVE...
On our new ship Iona, so many surprises lie in store. Some you might not have
ever considered. How about practising some yoga in a spectacularly serene
setting, followed by a chance to let loose on the dance floor back on board?
That’s the beauty of travelling with us.

HOLIDAY LIKE NEVER BEFORE

7 NIGHT NORWEGIAN FJORD HOLIDAY FROM £749PP† POCRUISES.COM | 03453 566 699

†Early Saver price of £749 per person is based on two adults sharing the lowest grade of Inside cabin available on Iona cruise G015. Prices are subject to availability and may go
Customers rate P&O Cruises
up or down. Bookings are made at the relevant cabin grade and a cabin number is allocated by P&O Cruises prior to departure. Dining preferences are not guaranteed. Shuttle
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are otherwise unchanged. For up-to-date prices and full P&O Cruises terms and conditions which you must read before booking please visit www.pocruises.com. P&O Cruises is Rating as of June 2019
a trading name of Carnival plc, a company registered in England and Wales with company number 04039524. Feefo rating 4.2 out of 5 based on 16,910 reviews as of June 2019.
 in the know.

FOR STARTERS
N E WS, N I B B L E S O F K N OW L E D G E A N D G O O D T H I N G S TO D O R I G H T N OW

HELP KEEP THE UK’S CHEESE HISTORY ALIVE IN THIS

MONTH...
Britain’s cheesemaking traditions are set to be
safely preserved for posterity, thanks to cheese 1819 Albert
education stalwart the Academy of Cheese. Saxe-Coburg-
The not-for-profit body has been given £15,000 by Gotha was born
on 26 August. The
the Frank Parkinson Agricultural Trust to complete a cake at his wedding
record-keeping project, and it’s inviting cheesemakers, to Queen Victoria in 1840 weighed
farming families and food enthusiasts to help. 135kg and measured almost three
metres across.
“The UK has an incredibly rich, diverse and
fascinating dairy history that deserves to be
preserved for future generations,” says Charlie 1867 The Merchant Shipping Act
Turnbull, director of the academy. “Territorial cheese of 20 August was passed by
Parliament, making it obligatory
recipes have been handed down through farming
for all sailing s
dynasties – in some cases for centuries – but there is to have lemon
a risk of these being lost forever.” or lime juice
Focusing on the production of 10 classic British on board to
help prevent
cheeses, the research will be used to create an online archive of historic photos, documents scurvy among
and audiovisual files of the people, places and equipment that have played a part in the the crew.
development of the UK’s cheese culture over the decades. Students on the academy’s Master
of Cheese course will study the archive of material as part of their accreditation.
The project will begin with cheshire cheese, interviewing people from that county with
1960 Cult
children’s
knowledge of the crumbly classic. If you or someone you know would like to contribute, email book Green
charlie.turnbull@academyofcheese.org or visit facebook.com/groups/ Eggs and Ham
cheshirecheese or academyofcheese.org/heritage/cheshire by Dr Seuss
was published
on 12 August.
It’s since sold more than 8 million
copies, thanks to its natty prose:
PHOTOGRAPHS: ANDREW MONTGOMERY, ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES. RESTAURANT STATS: ACCOR HOTELS

When food is a matter ROME “I do not like green eggs and ham.
I do not like them, Sam-I-Am.”
of national pride 74%
ITALIAN
RESTAURANTS
If you’re travelling to Europe for your hols PARIS 2009 The film Julie & Julia

this summer, chances are you won’t have

58% opened in US cinemas on 7 August
with Meryl Streep
F R E NCH
too much trouble tracking down the local ATHENS R E S TAUR A N TS as Julia Child,
cuisine. Restaurants in Euro-capitals, it 54% whose 524-recipe
cookbook inspires
seems, love to serve up their national dishes GREEK
RESTAURANTS blogger Julie
in preference to food from further afield. See
MADRID Powell to cook
right for the top four gastro-centric capital
53% them all in a year.
cities with the highest percentage of SPANISH
restaurants serving the national cuisine. RESTAURANTS
DID YOU KNOW…?
Grouse shooting season begins on
12 August (The Glorious Twelfth)
on the UK’s heather moorlands.
LISTEN OUT FOR SOMETHING NEW… The reason grouse are so prized
The delicious. podcast is taking a short break this month, returning in by game-baggers is because
of the challenge they present:
September with a fresh new sound and a new format. Meanwhile, check out they can fly at up to 70mph and
our back catalogue for interviews with Nigella, Tom Kerridge, Rick Stein, change direction in an instant. →
Dawn French – and so many more... It’s a podcast treasure trove!

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 11

RESTAURANT OF
THE MONTH
In association with The Good Food Guide
RILEY’S FISH SHACK
Tynemouth, Tyne & Wear
rileysfishshack.com
THE SETTING This glass-fronted,
open-all-day shipping container
facing the North Sea on King
Edward’s Bay is on the spot where
owner Adam Riley made a name
for himself locally by holding
street-food-and-music events.
You can’t book and there are
only 15 seats inside, so order at
the bar before heading for the
tarpaulin-covered terrace or
the beach beyond.
THE DISHES The day’s offerings (and
service times) depend on the
catch, and the blackboard menu
is a rapidly depleted moveable
The Good Food Guide 2019 (£17.99) is out now
feast. It takes in everything from
Lindisfarne oysters Rockefeller,
bang-bang monkfish kebabs
and pan-roast whole plaice to
the house speciality of seasonal
chargrilled fish wraps in wood-
fired flatbread, all conveniently
served in cardboard cartons.
At weekends, start your day
with a Craster kipper and
poached egg on sourdough, or
a smoked haddock omelette.
VERDICT This is a small, fun,
extremely popular place with
super-fresh seafood.
PUBS FOR THE PEOPLE!
Advice on launching a community pub or grocer is
just one of the reasons anyone living in a village
might want to invest in new book The Village Survival
Guide. It has 100 pages of inspiring case studies
as well as practical tips and how-to guides on
ways villages can help themselves become more
sustainable, from starting a community shop
to using the local church to host a wifi mast.
The Village Survival Guide
(£4.99 The Prince’s
Countryside Fund). For details
on how to buy it, visit
princescountryside fund.org.
uk/VSG
DID YOU KNOW…? The first product
to have its barcode scanned, back in
in 1974, was Juicy Fruit chewing gum

MAKING A DIFFERENCE Meet the people changing the world through food

THE PIONEER
Vanessa
Ravenscroft,
founder
member of
urban farming
project
Street Goat
THE MISSION
Based in Bristol, Street Goat has
created a collective of urban goat
herders. It was set up by activists
interested in the idea of food sovereignty
(people having greater control over the
way their food is produced, traded and
consumed). Street Goat also believes
the food system ought to help
regenerate the planet rather than
destroy it, and the project is committed
to sustainable meat and milk production,
using the whole animal. As a bonus, the
goats help clear overgrown land in the
city by feeding on brambles and weeds.
WHAT DOES STREET GOAT DO?
Members of the milking collective sign
an agreement committing them to work
a number of milking shifts each week,
pay into a pot for running costs and help
out with regular work days. The goats
need feeding to supplement their
foraging, some of it waste food from
wholesalers. Members are entitled to
the raw milk they collect – yields from
a milking vary from about a litre in the
winter months to around four litres
after the goats have kidded. Unlike on
many larger farms, kids stay with their
mothers until they’re three months old,
during which time they’re slowly weaned.
It’s not a sentimental operation,
though: “Once their useful kid-bearing
lives are over the goats will end up as
MAKING A DIFFERENCE WORDS: RAMONA ANDREWS. PHOTOGRAPHS: NIGEL JOHN, PATRICIA NIVEN, GREG FUNNELL
sausages; that’s the reality of it,” says
Vanessa. “The balance is between
seeing them as a resource, but also
caring for them to give them the best
quality of life they can possibly have.”
WHY DOES IT MATTER?
Vanessa believes that to help address
climate change, meat eaters need to
reduce their consumption of meat and
invest in better quality. Before Street
Goat, she worked for the charity Forum
for the Future, advising multinationals
on how to make their food businesses
more environmentally sustainable.
HOW CAN YOU GET INVOLVED?
Locals can volunteer for the milking
collective, and the project also hosts
classes in butchery skills and natural
tanning. To volunteer, donate or buy
meat, find Street Goat on Facebook
or visit streetgoat.co.uk.

12 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 in the know.

Rochelle Canteen (left)
and Parrillan’s DIY grill
25 YEARS OF
IMPROVING
ANIMAL WELFARE
The RSPCA Assured labelling
scheme was established in 1994
to improve animal welfare in UK

T HE L ONDON
is superior to anywhere else and the food
farming. Standards were set
better than it needs to be. I’ll also return to

L O W- D O W N
Restaurateur James Ramsden,
our roving trend-spotter
in the capital, finds the Big
Smoke is surprisingly suited
to eating and drinking outside
I have an ongoing joke with friends who find
it almost quaint that, the minute the sun is
out, I can’t countenance the idea of eating
indoors. Even in a big city such as London,
everything tastes better in the fresh air.
So, this month, I will make a beeline for a
streetside table at my beloved The 10 Cases
(10cases.co.uk) on the Covent Garden
riviera that is Endell Street, where the wine
across nine classes of farmed
Dalston’s Casa Fofò (casafofolondon.co.
animals, from trout to turkeys,
uk), where the secluded garden is a mellow
and cover diet and health,
place to enjoy serious modern European
environment, transport and
cooking. I suspect I’ll be spending time at
humane slaughter. Members
Parrillan (parrillan.co.uk) in King’s Cross
include farms, free-range and
too, with its open-air DIY grill; and I can’t
organic producers, plus abattoirs
resist Rochelle Canteen (arnoldand
and processors. Only when all
henderson.com) in Shoreditch for its pared-
aspects of an animal’s welfare
back cooking served in an old schoolyard.
meet the required standards
You could also try a day crawl starting
can a product carry the RSPCA
with a Regent’s Canal-side breakfast at
Assured label. Here are five of
Towpath Café (towpathcafe.wordpress.com)
the scheme’s key achievements:
in Hackney, moving to lunch at the Pavilion
in Victoria Park, and finishing with dinner
at breezy Crate Brewery (cratebrewery.
2019 Achieved UK figures of
more than 25 per cent of pigs,
com) in Hackney Wick. Good food and a
50 per cent of egg-laying hens
vitamin D boost. What more do you want?
and nearly 80 per cent of Scottish
farmed salmon farmed under
the RSPCA Assured scheme.

3 Which of these is not

a component of
traditional beef wellington?
7 Angels on horseback
and devils on horseback
are bacon-wrapped
2018 Developed the first
welfare standards for the long
distance transportation of live
THE a) Mushroom duxelles canapés. What are their salmon in boats.
delicious. b) Crepes or pancakes respective fillings? 2014 Banned the use of pig
FOOD QUIZ c) Mustard mayonnaise farrowing crates (devices that

10
tantalising 4 Tempura is Japanese
battered fried food –
brain teasers usually fish and vegetables.
BY QUIZ-MEISTER
Which European nation is
HUGH THOMPSON said to have brought the
technique to Japan?
8 What sort of speciality
is cullen skink?
a) An edible type of lizard
b) Welsh meat and
potato stew
c) Scottish fish soup
constrict a sow’s movement
before and after giving birth)
by RSPCA Assured members.
2013 Encouraged McDonald’s
to commit to using only RSPCA
Assured pork across its UK menu.
The Co-op switched to 100 per

1 To what did Pepys refer

when he spoke, in 1669,
of a “fine drink; but, it being
new, I was doubtful whether
it might not do me hurt”?
a) Orange juice
b) Coffee
c) Prosecco
5 Quatres épices is a
classic spice mix of
9 If you asked for 1kg
clod from a butcher,
what would you be buying?
cent outdoor-bred pork from
RSPCA Assured farms in 2018.
2011 Introduced mandatory
ground black pepper, CCTV in the abattoirs of RSPCA
cloves, ginger and…?
10 What food-poisoning
bacteria is associated
Assured members to monitor the
slaughter process. This became
6 What is a traditional
ingredient of the
Welsh cake bara brith
with reheated rice or rice
that’s been left standing
at room temperature?
a legal requirement across all
slaughterhouses in England.

2 What fresh herb

is used to flavour
a béarnaise sauce?
a) Laver (seaweed)
b) Dried mixed fruit
c) Leeks
a) Clostridium perfringens
b) Bacillus cereus
c) Campylobacter

7 Oysters and prunes 8 c) 9 Shoulder of beef 10 b)

ANSWERS: 1 a) 2 Tarragon 3 c) 4 Portuguese missionaries in the 16th century 5 Nutmeg 6 b)

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 13
people.

A SLICE OF MY LIFE
CRAFTED WITH

DOMINIQUE
A SMILE, FROM TOP
Dominique grew
up with the smell
of fresh bread;

ANSEL
the young baker
at Fauchon in
Paris; the cronut
is his famous
creation; his
treasured chef’s
knife; he bakes The multi-award-winning pastry
from the heart; chef, known as the Willy Wonka of
he dreams of
playing the guitar New York for extraordinary creations
such as the croissant-doughnut hybrid
‘cronut’, talks about the baguettes
he can’t forget and the importance
of being kind

HUMBLE BEGINNINGS
I grew up in a suburb of Paris, in a really poor area, and

INTERVIEW: KERRY FOWLER. PHOTOGRAPHS: BRENT HERRIG PHOTOGRAPHY, THOMAS SCHAUER, TOM MERTON/DAMIAN PALUS/MIXFORM DESIGN AT ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES
it was hard getting food on the table each night. I wasn’t
particularly well educated, but I’ve learned by being with
the best – I worked at the famous Fauchon delicatessen
in Paris and with Daniel Boulud in New York.

AN AROMA TO REMEMBER
One lasting memory is walking to the bakery with my
mum or grandma. They would go three or four times
a day to get fresh bread. I remember the hot crusty
baguettes: the smell, the steam coming out of them.

TREAT PEOPLE WELL

The kitchen culture in our bakeries is important to
me. I had a horrible experience early in my career,
and it taught me what I should never be or do. That
first chef was pretty tough, but then I worked under
a young chef called Stefan. He showed me how to
love what I do and put me on the right path.

TREASURED GIFT
I still have my first knife. It was given to me by Stefan
when I was an apprentice. It’s a chef’s tradition –
he gave me the knife and asked for a coin in return
to make sure we didn’t sever our friendship.

PATIENCE IS EVERYTHING
I am glad baking is something that is growing in
people’s hearts. It is scientific, and you need to be
patient. You can’t just bake: you need to have the
foundations first – like in music, you can’t just pick
up a guitar and play rock and roll. I would love to
learn to play the guitar, though, so you never know…

For more information about Dominique Ansel’s London

bakery, visit dominiqueansellondon.com

16 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 in the know.

Wish list BY EDITOR KAREN BARNES

How do you decide what to buy? Everything

you see and read about here has been chosen
from the hundreds of products we see, test
and try out. Only the most useful, most
beautiful and best value for money make the final cut
Gorgeous ceramics lend simple Charlotte Storrs goes beyond
style to kitchen and dining room. mugs and plates, crafting herb pots,
Although my home is filled with from £22, and handled buckets
colour, for china I veer towards for gathering flowers or veg from
neutral glazes with a simple the garden, from £52. Beautiful.
design etched into the clay. charlottestorrs-stoneware.co.uk

Turn the page to find out more →

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 17
 Grate expeectations
Rice pudding or the white sauce
for a lasagne woouldn’t be the same
without a grating of nutmeg. My
beloved nutmeg
grater went blunnt
after 20 years off
use and all the
new ones I’ve
tried have been
useless – until this
mini spice mill b
by
Microplane, which
works like a dream. Plus
you can keep spare nutmegs g
(or other spices) in the top of it, and there’s a cover
for the base to stop rogue gratings escaping.
£24.95, hartsofstur.com and independent cookshops

KEEP IT COOL
It’s important to carry water
when it’s hot, and even better
if you can keep it cool for ages
MEET THE POTTER – and shun single-use plastics.
Sistema stainless steel bottles
“I’m into usable are sleek, leakproof and not too
things, not art” heavy. I put one to the test and
was impressed to find my drink
CHARLOTTE STORRS works in her stayed cool for 12 hours.
garden studio near Oxford, making It also keeps things hot.
plates, bowls, bread and cooking £15 from Sainsbury’s,
pots, all stunning in their simplicity. Waitrose and Amazon

delicious.
HOW IT BEGAN I grew up in Holland and we had

STAR Wednesday afternoons off school to do something

creative. I’d go to a friend’s house and her mother
would give us clay to make things with. Somehow
it stuck with me and, in my 20s, I went to an evening class in
pottery and the teacher was brilliant.
THE CRAFT What I love about ceramics is the transformation; after
a short while you have something you can use. I’m into usable
things, not art, and I particularly like throwing big pieces – there’s
something so rewarding about making a huge dish. Working on the
wheel with a lump of clay is magical and calming. For me, food is
more important than the plate it’s served on and, because food can
Ever tried a golden kiwi?
If not, you really need to. I associate kiwi fruit
with those green fur-coated bullets that
appeared on disappointing nouvelle cuisine
restaurant plates in the 1990s. Golden kiwis,
on the other hand, are a revelation: sweet, sharp
and yielding. Eat like an apple – skin and all –
INTERVIEW: KERRY FOWLER. ILLUSTRATIONS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES.
or halve and scoop out the flesh with a spoon.
Available from now until January from most
major retailers (prices vary, but expect to
PHOTOGRAPHS: CHRISTIAN BARNET, AGNESS CLARK

pay around 50p per fruit)

be so colourful, it doesn’t work to set it on a multi-coloured dish.
I prefer something muted, or just white.
MY WORKING DAY When I first started making pots, my husband John,
who used to be a harpsichord maker, had just set up a workshop
in the garden, and said, “Why don’t you use it as your pottery?” He
probably still regrets it! It’s a lovely space. I invite young carers to
try pottery after school and at weekends. It gives them such a kick.
Like me, they feel proud to make something.
For more details and to order, visit charlottestorrs-stoneware.co.uk

18 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 in the know.

VALENTINA’S BEST OF THE REST

PERSONAL-PICK RUNNERS-UP FROM
OUR PRODUCE AWARDS AMBASSADOR

THIS MONTH Gooseberry gin liqueur

by Windsor’s Fruit Liqueurs
“I’ve always been slightly addicted
to gooseberries; growing up in Italy
they were a rare treat. So my heart
lifted at the sight of this slender
bottle of pale gold delight – and
I wasn’t disappointed. Smooth and
not at all reminiscent of gin, it’s an even more
special pleasure when drizzled over good-quality
vanilla ice cream as an affogato (the word means
‘drowned’, so it doesn’t have to be
made with coffee, as is usual).
Alternatively, just sip slowly – on its
own or over ice cubes.’ £16.50 for
200ml, windsorsfruitliqueurs.co.uk

FOR BETTER BBQ

There are times when you want
to barbecue things that are small
enough to slip through the bars
on the grill (I’m thinking prawns,
Ready, steady… bake! veg and slices of halloumi), but
The Great British Bake Off is back on TV later this month, don’t want the fiddle of skewer-
which means the nation will again be enticed back into threading. That’s where this
the kitchen (if they ever left it) to dust off whisks, cake Scandinavian cast iron griddle
tins, piping bags and cutters. High on the kit list is pan comes in. Handmade to
a robust mixing bowl, and my top choice is the In The last a lifetime, the plate stays
Forest collection by Mason Cash, from £13 for a 21cm hot for ages after taking it off
bowl, available from Amazon, Dunelm and cookshops the heat, keeping food warm
nationwide. I’ve had my MC bowl for 20 years, so it’s in the run-up to serving.
seen many a cake mix in its time, yet it’s as good as Skepp
pshult Grill & Frying Plate, £82, eu.skeppshult.com
new. Visit masoncash.co.uk for more stockists (please note that prices on the website are in euros)

HOT ON THE SHELVES

SUNSHINE SOUP I CAN’T BELIEVE IT IS BUTTER SPREADABLE PIMM’S
Yorkshire Provender’s limited-edition Creamy and pleasingly salty, The Butter The favourite summer tipple has found
summer tomato soup tastes of warm, Works Softer Butter is wonderfully its way into a jam – Pimm’s
ripe toms brightened creamy. It seems softer than similar Strawberry, Tangerine &
with balsamic, fresh butters I’ve tried, and you can just Mint Preserve. It really
basil and orange juice. about spread it straight from the fridge. does taste of Pimm’s,
Delicious hot or cold Slather on toast for a savoury treat that although we didn’t get
– let the weather needs no pimping. much mint. I enjoyed it
decide for you. The Butterworks but would prefer a slightly
£2.50 for 600g from Softer Butter, softer set. £2.49 for 330g
Waitrose, available £1.90 for 250g, from Asda and Waitrose,
until end of September Morrisons available all year round

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 19
 COOK IT LIKE
delicious.
Cookware
WIN and bakeware
from Circulon
M
ake any of the
recipes from
this month’s
delicious. and you could
win a fantastic prize that
will make cooking a pleasure
for many years to come.
Circulon cookware and
bakeware are designed
to offer top performance
and practicality, with
a superior non-stick WORTH
surface and a lifetime
guarantee. The pieces are
£500
oven and dishwasher safe
and suitable for all types of hob, including induction.
Our winner will receive a Circulon kitchenware bundle
worth over £500, including an Ultimum 8-piece stainless-steel
cookware set and a 7-piece set of non-stick Ultimum bakeware
including a roaster, cake tin and baking tray, plus serving tongs
and a solid and slotted spoon. circulon.uk.com; @circulonuk

FOR YOUR CHANCE TO WIN…

Make any recipe from our August issue, then take a picture,
viisit
i our website
b i ((see b
below)
l ) and
d share
s it with us.

JUNNE’S WINNER
• Gillian Mair wins a year’s
supply of Tracklements treats
CLOSING DATE: 31 AUGUST 2019

for her scrumptious-looking

brown sugar mini pavlovas

TO ENTER AND FOOR Ts&Cs, VISIT

deliciousmagazine.co.uk/cooktherecipe
 people.

KITCHEN TREASURE

I used this to make

cupcakes for the Queen
At just 17, Martha Collison was the youngest-ever contestant on The Great British
Bake Off back in 2014. She’s since gone on to bake for royalty, has two cookery books
under her belt and believes no baker’s kitchen should be without an ice cream scoop

You wouldn’t believe how versatile

ice cream scoops are in the kitchen.
I have them in all sizes and use them
to portion everything from cake batters
to cookie doughs, plus I use them to
make perfectly circular pancakes.
Your baking will improve too, as having
exactly the same amount of mixture in
each cupcake case or cake tin will allow
them all to cook at exactly the same rate
and to look identical, giving your bakes
a professional look. I used this one in
my first episode on The Great British
Bake Off and to make the coffee
and walnut cupcakes I made for
Her Majesty The Queen’s 90th
birthday celebrations. Look out
for the scoops with mechanical
levers – they’re the best.
MARTHA COLLISON
PHOTOGRAPH: TARA FISHER. STYLING: WEI TANG

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 21
 The joy of cooking
with others Far from being a place for solitary toil and cloistered creativity,
the kitchen ought to be a room where friendships are nurtured,
shoulder to shoulder, over simmering stews and steaming pots,
says Debora Robertson. Added bonus: you get dinner at the end
I
was always picked last for
games at school, and it took
me until later in life to discover
my perfect team sport: cooking
with friends. You chat, laugh, sing
along terribly to country music,
segue smoothly from coffee to
wine and then, suddenly – bonus!
– dinner’s ready and you all get
to have a lovely sit-down.
I have friends who always
make the pudding, others who
are brilliant at grilling, composing
salads or making sauces – much
in the same way sporty types know
who’s the best striker, defender or
midfielder. Back-of-the-net dinner
perfection guaranteed (here endeth
my sporting analogies).
In the interests of full disclosure,
I am not good at handing over the
reins of power. I am also constantly
astonished that perfectly intelligent,
competent people – individuals
who can dress themselves, catch
a bus on their own, perform
vascular surgery or understand
the FTSE 100 index – have no idea
how to wash up (I would explain
the full, correct procedure here
but it would take 2,000 words
minimum, and we have other
things to discuss).
The phrase that brings out the
full jaw-clench-eye-twitch response
in me more than any other is, “Can
I bring anything?” God bless the
guileless optimism of my dear,
civilian friends and family, those
not hardened by the battle scars of
22 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
the kitchen, who suddenly think
that because it’s Christmas, Easter
or someone’s birthday, I am going
to sacrifice the perfection of my
carefully composed menu to a
random dish, the recipe for which
they got off the back of a soup tin.
Besides, cooking alongside
someone is an entirely more joyful
proposition. You appreciate each
other’s strengths and make up for
each other’s weaknesses, learn
something new with every dish,
and cook things you may never
have tried before. It’s a wonderful
way to cement old friendships
and develop new ones. It also
means you can entertain in a much
more relaxed fashion, as no one
shoulders all the responsibility,
and any disasters are shared.
KITCHEN GLASNOST
I first learned the great power of
companionable cooking in my early
20s when, almost by accident, I
found myself living in Moscow just
as the Soviet Union was collapsing
like a sad soufflé. Back then there
were only a few thousand foreign
residents, and our lives were a mix
of odd hardships (hello, -25°C
winters and $10 packs of butter)
and even odder extravagances (tins
of beluga caviar suddenly appearing
in the corner shop, among the
leaking freezers of half-frozen fish
and endless heaps of beetroot –
yours for only a few roubles).
I joined the International Women’s
Club, and every autumn we would
meet in Spaso House, the residence
of the American ambassador, to
sign ourselves up for improving
lectures, activities and classes. We
were women of many nations and,
aware even then that cooking was
an international language, I thought
some of us could get together in each
other’s homes once a week to cook
something from our own countries.
We could share recipes and make
friends, little English required. At
the first meeting in my flat, I made
Lancashire hotpot (perfect for those
-25°C days, and requiring little of
the $10 butter). Over that winter,
I learned how to make proper
biryani, wiener schnitzel, and the
classic central Asian rice dish plov.
Our lives wove tightly together
over those lunches on Ikea plates,
ambassadorial platters and
chipped-if-charming stuff from
Izmailovo flea market (yes, I was
an early adopter of shambolic chic).
THE BEST RECIPE FOR
LASTING FRIENDSHIP
In the years since, I have bottled
hundreds of jars of jam with
my neighbour Vanessa, the
ILLUSTRATION: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES
kitchen windows running with
condensation; stood alongside
my friend Kay Plunkett-Hogge
(see p76) as she rustled up exquisite
Thai salads (you don’t even need
to be in the room with her, actually
– her cookbook Baan is excellent);
made pimento cheese with my

Chattanooga sweetheart Julia;
and tackled endless other dishes
with countless other friends.
We’ve burnt things, broken
things and put out fires. We’ve
survived curdled sauces, separated
mousses, things we forgot to put
into the oven and things we forgot
to take out of the oven, plus that
time the dog ran off with the beef.
But it’s not just about the food,
is it? Cooking together is like going
on a long car journey. You can say
food for thought.
As you scrub
potatoes and
patiently stir the
hollandaise, it
becomes easier to
open up and talk
things when you’re side by side
that you might find harder to share
face to face. As you scrub potatoes,
wash salad and patiently stir the
hollandaise, it becomes easier to
open up and talk. You exchange
tentative secrets, receive and offer
advice, and reveal your true self
slowly, like peeling back the leaves
of an artichoke to reveal the heart.
This is how to make a friendship,
step by step, stir by stir. No added
ingredients required.
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 23
 Join Delia and
delicious. for the
EVENT OF THE YEAR
CELEBRATING When Victoria Wood presented Delia with a Bafta for services to

50
television she called her a national treasure and that’s no exaggeration.
She has taught millions to be confident in the kitchen. She has sold
21 million books. And now, to mark 50 years of food writing, Delia is

Years joining with delicious. to invite you to an exclusive celebration dinner

I
t became known as ‘the Delia
effect’: when the TV cook used
a new or unusual ingredient
in one of her recipes, there would
be a stampede to buy it, with
supermarkets running out. That’s
the magic of Delia, and this is your
exclusive opportunity to experience
served at 7.45pm. Chosen by Delia,
the menu features recipes that have
been popular with her many
followers over the decades.
Each course will be accompanied
by carefully selected wines to
complement the recipes, sponsored
by independent East Anglian wine

PORTRAIT OF DELIA: TREVOR LEIGHTON. ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHS: GETTY/ISTOCK

it up close, as she celebrates 50
years of food writing this autumn.
She’s inviting delicious. readers
to join her for a celebratory dinner
on Thursday 10 October. The event
will take place at the Top of the
Terrace at Norwich City Football
Club, where Delia and her team
head up a stylish catering operation.
The evening begins between
6.30pm and 7.30pm, when Delia
will personally welcome you while
you enjoy chilled Moët & Chandon
champagne and a selection of
canapés from her repertoire.
After a welcome from delicious.
editor Karen Barnes, dinner will be
specialists Peter Graham. Expert
Jason Banner will introduce each
wine as it’s served.
There will be an informal
interview with Delia while coffee
is served, when she’ll be happy
to answer any questions you may
have for her. The event is expected
to end around midnight, and you’ll
receive a goodie bag to take away
as a memento. It’s sure to be an
evening to remember.
• Tickets for the event are £95 per
person. For a comfortable overnight
stay, the Holiday Inn on site is offering
rooms for two guests, including
breakfast, for £106.

Your evening includes… Drinks and canapés ★ Three-course meal ★ A special gift for you ★

★ BOOK YOUR TICKETS NOW FOR THIS EVENING OF A LIFETIME WITH DELIA!
This is an exclusive event for delicious. readers and tickets are limited – please book early to avoid disappointment.
PRICE £95pp DATE Thursday 10 October 2019 TIME 6.30pm until midnight VENUE Top of the Terrace, Norwich City FC
 reader event.

Delia’s celebration menu

ON A R R IVA L
A selection of canapés
Moët & Chandon Brut NV
Champagne, France
★
TO STA RT
Souffléed smoked haddock
Join delicious. encased in smoked salmon with
and Delia for a a foaming hollandaise sauce
special evening Wente Vineyards Morning Fog
at Norwich City Chardonnay, Livermore Valley,
Football Club’s California, USA
Top of the Terrace
★
M A IN COUR SE
Local free-range pork chop baked
with wild mushrooms, cream,
lemon and thyme
Pink fir apple potatoes with
parsley and chives
Dressed watercress leaves
Bouchard Côte de Beaune-Villages,
Burgundy, France
★
DESSERT
Warm apple and almond pudding
with chilled vanilla bean custard
Nectaria Riesling Torres,
Curico Valley, Chile
★
Coffee served with mini stem ginger
choc ices and pecan sablés
★
A ND TO FINISH THE EV ENING…
Graham’s Six Grapes Reserve Port

VEGETARIAN OPTIONS WILL BE AVAILABLE

WINE SPONSORED BY

★ Fine dining in sumptuous surroundings ★ A chance to meet Delia and the delicious. team ★

TO BOOK YOUR TICKETS, PHONE 01603 218704

Lines are open 9am-5pm Monday to Friday. For information about Delia’s Canary Catering visit deliascanarycatering.com

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 25
 In the moment...
AUGUST
AN ARRAY OF COLOURFUL PRODUCE IS AT ITS FINEST IN HIGH SUMMER,
FROM FRAGRANT TOMATOES TO FRESHLY PODDED PEAS. GATHER SEASONAL
BLOOMS TO SET THE SCENE FOR OUTDOOR FEASTS TO REMEMBER
PHOTOGRAPH: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES

TURN THE PAGE FOR THIS MONTH’S

INSPIRATIONAL RECIPES →
 ALWAYS A WINNER

PAELLA
This much-loved Spanish dish is the ideal one-pan supper.
Traditionally made for Sunday lunch, it’s cooked over an aromatic
open fire in a shady spot away from the fierce midday sun, with
everyone diving into the finished creation to nab the choicest morsels
RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING JEN BEDLOE
PHOTOGRAPHS TOBY SCOTT STYLING OLIVIA WARDLE

Valencian
seafood noodle
paella (fideuà)
 favourites.

Chicken paella with

squid and beans
SERVES 4-6. HANDS-ON TIME 60 MIN,
PLUS RESTING

FOOD Buy calasparra rice in delis

TEAM’S or online at ocado.com or
TIP
brindisa.com.
The crust on the bottom of
KNOW-
HOW the paella pan, known as
socarrat, is prized. Cook the
rice over a high heat, then rest the
dish at the end to let the crust set.
Pimentón (Spanish smoked
paprika) comes in dulce (sweet),
agridulce (bittersweet/medium-hot)
or picante (hot) varieties. Find it in
larger supermarkets. We used the
brand La Chinata.

• 4 tbsp olive oil

• 6 skin-on free-range chicken
thighs, boned and cut in half
• ½ large Spanish onion, chopped
• 280g flat or runner beans (we
used helda beans), chopped
• 150g prepared squid, chopped
into 1cm pieces (see delicious.
Kitchen for a guide to squid prep)
• ¼-½ tsp saffron, toasted
in a dry pan
• 1 tsp smoked sweet pimentón
(see Know-how)
• 1 tsp smoked hot pimentón
(see Know-how)
• 2 large fresh tomatoes on the
vine, finely chopped
• 1 fat garlic clove, crushed
• 750ml chicken stock
• 250g paella rice (we used
calasparra; see tip)
• 2 fresh bay leaves
• 1 bushy rosemary sprig
• Small handful parsley, chopped
(optional)
• Lemon wedges for squeezing
YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
• 34-36cm paella pan or
large shallow casserole
1 Heat a splash of the oil in the pan
over a medium-high heat. Season the
chicken, add to the pan and brown
all over (this will take 15-20 minutes).
2 Once well browned, transfer the
chicken to a plate and set aside. Add
ROUNDLY
SATISFYING
Classic paella
with chicken,
squid and beans
the remaining oil to the pan, turn
down the heat to low-medium, then
fry the onion and beans with a pinch
of salt for 8 minutes until softened.
3 Add the squid, stirring to coat,
then cook for a couple of minutes
to colour. Stir in the toasted saffron
and both types of pimentón, cook
for a minute until fragrant, then stir
in the tomatoes and garlic. Pour in
the chicken stock. Bring to the boil,
then sprinkle over the rice in an
even layer, using a wooden spoon to
stir it into the liquid. Stir only once
– you’re aiming to create a crust
on the bottom of the pan. Poke the
chicken pieces into the rice with
the herbs, bring back up to a fast
simmer, then bubble over a medium
heat, uncovered, for 10 minutes.
4 Turn down the heat to low, simmer
for another 5 minutes, then cover
the pan with a double layer of foil,
tucking in the edges to seal the
steam inside. Cook for a further
5 minutes, then take the pan off
the heat and set aside, still covered,
for 5 minutes to let the rice steam.
5 Sprinkle over the chopped parsley,
if you like, then serve the paella
with lemon wedges for squeezing.
PER SERVING (FOR 6) 374kcals,
12.9g fat (2.6g saturated), 25.1g
protein, 38.1g carbs (3.5g sugars),
1.4g salt, 2.7g fibre
WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE Nothing
beats a youthful, fruity Spanish rosé
(rosado) with a classic like this. →

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 29

COVER STAR
Valencian seafood
noodle paella (fideuà)
SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 40 MIN,
PLUS RESTING
FOOD Fideu pasta resembles
TEAM’S short strands of spaghetti.
TIP
Buy it at ocado.com or
brindisa.com. Or use fine angel
hair pasta, broken into strands.
• 3 tbsp olive oil
• ½ large Spanish onion, chopped
• 1 green pepper, chopped
• 150g prepared squid, chopped
into 1cm pieces (see delicious.
Kitchen for a guide to squid prep)
• ¼-½ tsp saffron, toasted in
a dry pan
• 1 tsp smoked sweet pimentón
(see Know-how, p29)
• 1 tsp smoked hot pimentón
(see Know-how, p29)
• 2 large fresh tomatoes on the
vine, finely chopped
• 1 fat garlic clove, crushed
• 100g frozen peas
• 2 fresh bay leaves
• 3 fresh thyme sprigs
• 650ml chicken stock
• 500g fideu pasta (see tip)
• 200g sustainable peeled raw tiger
prawns (we used frozen Big &
Juicy prawns, from Waitrose)
• 200g vac-packed cooked
Scottish mussels, in the
shells if possible, drained
• Lemon wedges for squeezing
YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
• 34-36cm paella pan or
large shallow casserole
NEXT 1 Heat the olive oil in the pan over
MONTH a medium-high heat, then fry the
Taco time! onion and pepper until soft (about
30 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
8 minutes). Stir in the squid and
cook for 1-2 minutes, then add the
saffron and both types of pimentón,
stirring for a minute over the heat.
Add the tomatoes and garlic.
2 Stir in the peas and herbs, then
pour in the stock. Season well.
Bring to a simmer, then stir in
the pasta. Bring back to the boil
and bubble over a medium-high
heat, uncovered, for 5 minutes.
3 Push the prawns into the pasta,
then simmer for 5 minutes. Add the
mussels, tucking the hinges down
into the pasta. Cover the pan with
2 sheets of thick foil and simmer for
5-10 minutes over the heat until all
the mussels are heated through.
4 Take the pan off the heat and set
aside to rest for 5 minutes, covered
with the foil. Serve with lemon
wedges for squeezing.
PER SERVING 441kcals, 8.4g fat (1.4g
saturated), 24.6g protein, 63.6g carbs
(4.8g sugars), 0.8g salt, 6.3g fibre
WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE Albariño,
northwest Spain’s seafood-friendly
dry white, is a refreshing partner.
Black rice paella with
artichokes, padrón
peppers and spinach
SERVES 4-6. HANDS-ON TIME 50 MIN,
PLUS RESTING
Black venus (also called
KNOW-
HOW venere or venere nero) is a
dark purple medium-grain
rice with a nutty taste. It’s available
from large supermarkets and online.
• 3 tbsp olive oil, plus a splash
• ½ large Spanish onion, chopped
• 160g runner beans, sliced
• ¼-½ tsp saffron, toasted
in a dry pan
• 1 tsp smoked sweet pimentón
(see Know-how, p29)
• ¼ tsp smoked hot pimentón
(see Know-how, p29)
• 2 large fresh tomatoes on the
vine, chopped
• 2 fat garlic cloves, chopped
• 175g marinated artichokes in oil
• 650-700ml vegetable stock
(if you’re vegan, check the
stock is vegan)
• 250g black venus rice (we used
Gallo), soaked in cold water for
30 minutes, then drained
• 2 fresh bay leaves
• 1 bushy rosemary sprig
• 130g pack padrón peppers
• 1 large green or yellow courgette,
peeled into ribbons
• 115g bag baby leaf spinach
• 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
• Splash sherry vinegar
YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
• 32-34cm paella pan or large
shallow casserole, or 3 smaller
paella pans to serve 1-2 people
each (see pic)
1 Heat the oil in the paella pan/s
over a medium-high heat and fry
the onion with a pinch of salt for
5 minutes. Add the runner beans and
cook for 5 minutes, then stir in the
saffron and both types of pimentón.
Cook for a minute, then add the
chopped tomatoes and garlic.
2 Stir in the artichokes, then pour in
the stock. Bring to the boil, then stir
in the black rice, herbs and plenty
of seasoning. Bring back to the boil,
then adjust the heat slightly and
simmer for 15 minutes. Cover with
two sheets of thick foil, then
continue to simmer for another
10-15 minutes until the rice is
almost completely tender (it will
retain a nutty bite). Take off the
heat and leave to rest for 5 minutes.
3 Meanwhile, heat a splash of olive
oil in a small frying pan and fry the
padrón peppers for 3-4 minutes,
tossing with salt. Set aside.
4 In a large bowl toss together
the courgette ribbons, spinach, oil,
vinegar and some salt and pepper.
Serve the paella scattered with
the padrón peppers, topped with the
spinach and courgette ribbons.
PER SERVING (FOR 6) 317kcals,
14.7g fat (2.2g saturated), 5.8g
protein, 36.5g carbs (5.1g sugars),
0.6g salt, 7.9g fibre
WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE Chill a
crisp and zesty Spanish white for
this – a verdejo would be perfect.
For more ways to use black
venus rice, see Loose Ends
 favourites.

GO FOR GREEN
Black rice paella
with artichokes,
padrón peppers
and spinach
 GEORGINA’S TABLE

Summer calls for fun, no-fuss food that frees you

up to enjoy the outdoors. Georgina Hayden shows how
to stay chilled in the kitchen, even during a heatwave

Chewy peanut
butter cookie and
plum ice cream
sandwiches

32 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 at home.

Summer pudding
arctic roll

Turn the page for

Georgina’s recipes →

I adore summer and love cooking but,
truth be told, I don’t enjoy the two together. When
the sun’s shining I’d rather be outside socialising and
eating than in a hot kitchen and I suspect I’m not
the only one who feels this way. But that doesn’t mean
you have to exist on salads and dips, great as they are.
With a little organisation it’s possible to make food
that benefits from being served chilled. Light and
refreshing on a hot day, it requires a lot less effort
in the kitchen. If you have children at home for the
school holidays, these recipes are a great way to rope
in young helpers, as none is particularly complicated.
When the weather’s glorious I keep a jug of almond
salmorejo soup in the fridge as my go-to lunch. The
crab rolls feel decadent but are incredibly easy and,
while the peanut butter biscuits are usually scoffed
straightaway, any leftover plum ice cream makes
a perfect after-dinner sweet fix. Finally, the arctic
roll is the ideal make-ahead pud. Prepare it in
advance and you’ll have a showstopper dessert ready
to pull from the freezer with minimal fuss (the
dream), leaving you more time to be a fabulous host
– or simply sit and drink tea in the garden. Enjoy!
RECIPES, STYLING
AND FOOD STYLING
GEORGINA HAYDEN
PHOTOGRAPHS
LAURA EDWARDS
Almond salmorejo soup
SERVES 4-6. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, OVEN
TIME 6-8 MIN, SIMMERING TIME 7 MIN
Complete the recipe to the
MAKE end of step 4 up to 1 day
AHEAD
ahead and keep in the fridge.
Salmorejo is a tomato-
KNOW-
HOW based Spanish soup from
Andalucía, served chilled.
Jamón ibérico is a high-quality
cured ham from Spain. Find it in
large supermarkets and delis.
• 100g blanched almonds
• 600g ripe tomatoes
• 100g good-quality white bread,
crusts removed, torn into chunks
• 1 garlic clove, finely chopped
• 150ml extra-virgin olive oil, plus
extra to serve
• 300ml iced water
• 2 tbsp sherry vinegar
• 3 medium free-range eggs
• 100g jamón ibérico
(see Know-how), sliced/chopped
• Chopped flatleaf parsley to serve
YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
• Food processor or blender
1 Heat the oven to 180°C/160°C fan/
gas 4. Put the almonds on a small
tray and toast in the oven for 6-8
minutes until very lightly golden.
Remove and set aside to cool.
2 Score a cross on the tops of all the
tomatoes, put in a large heatproof
bowl and pour over just-boiled
water to cover. Leave for a few
minutes, drain well, peel away the
skins, then roughly chop. Put the
bread in a bowl of cold water to
soak, then set aside.
3 Put the cooled almonds in a food
processor or blender and whizz
until finely ground. Add the garlic
and pulse a few times. Squeeze the
water out of the soaked bread and
add the bread to the processor,
whizzing until smooth. Add the
chopped tomatoes and whizz again
to form a thick, creamy soup.
4 Season generously with salt
and pepper then, with the motor
running, slowly pour in the olive oil,
followed by the iced water and →
 at home.

CHILL FACTOR
Almond
salmorejo soup

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 35
SUSY ATKINS’ finally the sherry vinegar. Adjust the
WINE PICKS seasoning and vinegar to taste. You
A bone-dry pale may also need to add more water to
fino or manzanilla
sherry straight get a consistency you like. Keep the
from the fridge salmorejo covered in the fridge until
is ideal with the needed (see Make Ahead).
salmorejo, while
5 To serve, bring a small pan of
the bright lime
flavour of a water to the boil, lower the eggs into
chilled Australian the water and simmer for 7 minutes.
dry riesling is Drain, run under cold water to cool,
spot on with the
crab rolls. A then peel and roughly chop. Serve
sweet sparkling the chilled soup in bowls with a
wine would be a few ice cubes, if you like. Drizzle
fun and summery
with extra-virgin olive oil, then top
partner for the
arctic roll – try with the eggs, jamón and parsley.
Italy’s asti. PER SERVING (FOR 6) 408kcals,
32.8g fat (4.8g saturated), 15.5g
protein, 12g carbs (4.2g sugars),
1.2g salt, 1.6g fibre
Crab rolls with yuzu
and samphire
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN
Complete the recipe to the
MAKE end of step 2 a few hours
AHEAD
ahead. Keep the crab mix
and samphire chilled (separately).
See Know-how on p51 to
KNOW-
HOW find out more about the
Japanese citrus fruit yuzu.
• 200g sustainable white crabmeat
• 200g sustainable cooked
crayfish tails
• 2 celery sticks, trimmed and very
finely sliced
• 80g good-quality mayonnaise
• 2 tsp yuzu juice (from larger
supermarkets – see Know-how)
• 1/4 tsp freshly ground black pepper
• 50g unsalted butter, at room
temperature
• 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
• 90g samphire (from fishmongers
or large supermarkets)
• 4 large brioche rolls
• Sriracha chilli sauce to serve
• Handful micro herbs or
watercress to serve
1 Put the crabmeat, crayfish tails
and celery in a large mixing bowl.
Add the mayonnaise, yuzu juice
and black pepper and mix well.
Cover, then chill until needed.
2 Put a medium frying pan on
36 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
a low-medium heat and add 30g of
the butter. Once it’s melted, add the
chopped garlic and fry for a couple
of minutes, then add the samphire.
Turn up the heat and cook, stirring,
for 2-3 minutes until glossy but not
completely wilted (see Make Ahead).
3 Put a griddle pan on a high heat.
Halve the brioche rolls, spread
with the remaining 20g butter, then
griddle until charred and toasted.
4 When ready to serve, reheat the
samphire, if you like, then divide
among the rolls. Top with the
crabmeat mixture, then drizzle with
sriracha. Top with the micro herbs
or watercress and eat without delay!
PER SERVING 541kcals, 33g fat (12g
saturated), 26.9g protein, 32.6g carbs
(3.9g sugars), 2g salt, 3.1g fibre
Summer pudding
arctic roll
SERVES 12. HANDS-ON TIME 40 MIN, OVEN
TIME 13 MIN, PLUS COOLING AND AT LEAST
4 HOURS FREEZING
Make to the end of step 5 up
MAKE
AHEAD to 4 days ahead. Keep the
roll wrapped in the freezer.
• 3 large free-range eggs
• 190g caster sugar
• 150g fresh blueberries
• Finely grated zest 1 lemon,
plus a squeeze of juice
• 80g plain flour
• 500g tub good-quality vanilla
ice cream (see Taste Test p116)
• 125g berry jam
• 250g frozen mixed berries
• 250g fresh mixed berries,
any large ones halved
• 50g dark chocolate
• Fresh, unsprayed rose petals for
decorating
YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
• 25 x 35cm lipped baking tray,
greased and lined with non-stick
baking paper, plus 2 more sheets
of baking paper slightly larger
than the tray
1 Heat the oven to 180°C/160°C fan/
gas 4. Crack the eggs into a stand
mixer (or use a large mixing bowl
and an electric hand mixer). Add
120g of the sugar and a pinch of
salt, then whisk on a high speed for
a few minutes until the mixture has
tripled in volume and is fluffy.
2 Take a large handful of blueberries
and cut each in half (set aside the
rest). Dot them around the lined
baking sheet, cut-side down.
3 Add the lemon zest to the egg
mixture and whisk for another
minute. Sift in the flour, then
fold in using a large metal spoon
to keep in as much air as possible.
Evenly spoon the batter over
the blueberries, then transfer
the tray to the oven. Bake for
around 13 minutes until golden
and cooked through.
4 Sprinkle one of the 2 large sheets
of baking paper with 10g of the
remaining caster sugar. Flip out the
cooked sponge onto the un-sugared
paper, then flip it back onto the
sugared paper so the blueberry-
stained sponge faces down. Starting
with the long side, roll up the sponge
like a swiss roll, using the baking
paper to help you. Leave to cool for
30 minutes. Put the ice cream in the
fridge to soften slightly.
5 Once the sponge has cooled,
unroll it and spread the jam all over.
Put the frozen berries in a food
processor and whizz with the
remaining 60g sugar until smooth.
Dot the frozen berry mixture over
the sponge with generous spoonfuls
of the ice cream, fresh berries and
the remaining blueberries (set aside
some berries for serving). Leave
a border around the filling, so when
you start to roll it up there’s room
for the filling to spread out a little.
Reroll the sponge around the filling
so the 2 long edges meet (if any of
the filling spills out, press →
 at home.

Georgina’s crab
rolls are this
summer’s
must-make
at home.
READY TO ASSEMBLE
The best ice cream
sandwich of
summer 2019
it back in gently). Wrap the baking
paper around the roll and twist the
ends so it looks like a big Christmas
cracker, then freeze for 4 hours or
until needed (see Make Ahead).
6 When ready to serve, toss the
remaining berries in a bowl with
a little lemon juice. Shave the
chocolate into curls over the arctic
roll, dot over the remaining berries
and the rose petals, then enjoy.
PER SERVING 214kcals, 4.6g fat (2.3g
saturated), 4.3g protein, 38.2g carbs
(33g sugars), 0.2g salt, 1.7g fibre
Chewy peanut butter
cookie and plum
ice cream sandwiches
MAKES 8 SANDWICHES (WITH LEFTOVER
ICE CREAM). HANDS-ON TIME 40 MIN, OVEN
TIME 10 MIN, PLUS AT LEAST 6 HOURS
CHILLING AND FREEZING
NEXT The ice cream will keep in
MONTH MAKE the freezer for up to a month.
Georgina’s AHEAD
marvellous The cookies will keep for
meze menu 1-2 days in an airtight container.
38 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
FOR THE ICE CREAM
• 500g very ripe plums, halved
and de-stoned
• 175g caster sugar
• 160ml whole milk
• 300ml double cream
• 3 large free-range egg yolks
FOR THE PEANUT BUTTER COOKIES
• 125g unsalted butter, at room
temperature
• 125g crunchy peanut butter
• 125g caster sugar
• 125g light brown soft sugar
• 1 tsp vanilla extract
• 1 large free-range egg
• 180g plain flour
• 1 tsp baking powder
• 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
• 100g finely chopped peanuts
(optional)
YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
• 2 baking sheets lined
with non-stick baking
paper, ice cream machine
(optional)
1 Make the ice cream at least 1 day
before you want to serve it. Put the
plums in a food processor or blender
with 25g of the caster sugar and
60ml of the milk, then whizz to
a smooth purée. Set aside.
2 Pour the cream and remaining
100ml milk in a saucepan and set
over a low heat. In a large bowl,
whisk the egg yolks and remaining
150g sugar until smooth. As soon
as the cream mixture is hot but
not boiling, pour slowly into the
eggs, whisking continuously.
3 Return the mixture to the pan,
then cook over a low heat, stirring.
You’re looking for a light custard
that coats the back of a spoon. Once
it’s ready, plunge the base of the
pan into a sink or bowlful of cold
water, then leave to cool completely.
4 Whisk the puréed plums into the
custard. Chill for at least 6 hours.
5 Churn the plum custard in an ice
cream machine according to the
manufacturer’s instructions. If you
don’t have a machine, put the
mixture in an airtight freezerproof
container and freeze, whisking with
an electric mixer every few hours to
break down any ice crystals, until
frozen and smooth. Keep frozen
until needed (see Make Ahead).
6 To make the cookies, heat the
oven to 180°C/160°C fan/gas 4.
In a large mixing bowl, beat
together the butter and peanut
butter until smooth. Mix in both
the sugars and the vanilla. Beat
in the egg, then fold in the flour,
baking powder, cinnamon and
a pinch of salt.
7 Divide the dough into 16 even balls
and press them onto the lined
sheets, spaced apart to allow room
for them to spread. Bake for
10 minutes until lightly golden.
Leave to cool on a cooling rack.
8 To assemble, put a scoop of ice
cream in the centre of each cookie,
then put another cookie on top. Roll
the edge of the ice cream sandwich
in the chopped peanuts, if using.
PER SANDWICH 619kcals, 35.7g fat
(15.6g saturated), 12.6g protein,
60.4g carbs (41.8g sugars),
0.5g salt, 2.8g fibre
 MADE BETTER

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 what’s good now.

A cook’s year
TOMATOES
Nothing shouts summer more than vine-ripened orbs bursting with sweetness.
Gill Meller pays homage to heritage varieties with his rustic, slow-roasted dish
RECIPE, FOOD STYLING AND STYLING GILL MELLER PHOTOGRAPHS ANDREW MONTGOMERY

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 41

Have you ever stood in a greenhouse or polytunnel
full of tomatoes in August? It’s a multi-sensory
experience. It’s the warmth that hits you first
a moist, hugging air that carries a fragrance so
particular and so special that, for me, it evokes
both joy and sadness. Then there are the vines
themselves, standing side by side in pirouette-like
forms. Sometimes they are trained to the sky by a
single cord and seem impossibly tall given the pull of
heavy fruit suspended from their delicate branches.
The colour of the fruit varies immensely depending
on variety: from deep, rich reds to oranges and
yellows of all hues, striped greens, dusky blacks
and speckled purples. If you’re quiet you can almost
hear the plants through the thick air a gentle
humming or a buzzing. Maybe it’s the sound of life.
Eating sun-ripened tomatoes straight from the
vine is a highlight of summer. It’s the temperature
of the fruit, for one thing the warmth that enables
you to taste what’s going on. Then, there is the skin
and the bite, and the way the seeds burst forth. Next,
you discover the sugary, perfumed flesh inside, so
delicious you don’t even think about salt or olive oil.
My recipe calls for the best tomatoes you can find
try to hunt down heritage varieties. The roasting
accentuates their sweetness and character, which
is a match made in heaven for aubergine, garlic and
capers. You’ll end up with a kind of chunky, rich,
roasted ratatouille, which I like to finish with
lots of fresh basil and parsley. GILL MELLER
42 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
Roast tomatoes and chilli flakes, then tear over the
aubergines with wet rosemary leaves. Drizzle over the
polenta, sheep’s cheese 4 tbsp olive oil and season well.
and griddled sourdough 2 Roast for 1½ hours. Carefully
SERVES 4 AS A MAIN OR 6-8 AS A SHARING stir or turn the vegetables once
STARTER. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, or twice during cooking, without
OVEN TIME 1½ HOURS breaking up the tomatoes.
3 Meanwhile, cook the polenta:
• 1kg ripe mixed heritage tomatoes, pour the milk and stock into a large
halved or quartered if large heavy-based pan over a medium-
• 2 aubergines, sliced into high heat and bring to a simmer.
2-3cm thick rounds Pour in the polenta in a slow, steady
• 4 garlic cloves, sliced stream, stirring well as you add it.
• 2 tbsp small capers, It will thicken quite quickly but
rinsed and drained will need gentle simmering for
• 2 tsp fennel seeds, lightly crushed 6-8 minutes until the grain is
• Pinch chilli flakes cooked properly. If it becomes
• 2-3 fresh rosemary sprigs, too thick, add a dash more stock.
leaves picked Stir in half the cheese and all the
• 4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, butter, then season well to taste.
plus extra for drizzling 4 Toast the sourdough on both
• 8 sourdough slices sides in a griddle pan, then drizzle
• Small handful fresh basil leaves with olive oil and season with salt.
• Small handful fresh parsley leaves Remove the tray from the oven, then
roughly chop the basil and parsley
FOR THE POLENTA leaves and scatter them over the veg.
• 400ml whole milk 5 Spoon the polenta onto 4 warmed
• 400ml good-quality vegetable plates or a platter. Top with the roast
stock, preferably fresh veg and serve with the toast and the
• 125g quick-cook polenta remaining cheese for sprinkling.
• 75g hard sheep’s cheese, PER SERVING (FOR 8) 345kcals,
such as pecorino, finely grated 14.5g fat (5.5g saturated), 11.6g
(or a vegetarian alternative) protein, 41g carbs (6.5g sugars),
• 25g butter 0.8g salt, 3.8g fibre
WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE A lighter,
1 Heat the oven to 170°C/150°C fan/ juicy red such as bardolino or
gas 31/2. Put the tomatoes (cut-side a simple rhône cuts it here. A rich
up) and the aubergine slices on a rosé would suit too – not too cold.
roasting tray and scatter over the For more ways to use quick-cook
garlic, capers, fennel seeds and polenta, see Loose Ends
3 MORE IDEAS TO TRY WITH TOMATOES
• One of my favourite salads is thickly sliced ripe tomatoes scattered
generously with little capers, then finished with a generous handful of
freshly chopped mint, olive oil, salt and freshly ground black pepper.
• It may seem an unlikely combination, but tomatoes, blue cheese
and fresh red chilli go together superbly. Roast cherry tomatoes in a
medium oven with a little rosemary and garlic, then pile on bruschetta
with crumbled blue cheese and slivers of fresh red chilli in olive oil.
• For the simplest roast tomato soup, halve large ripe tomatoes, then
roast with salt, pepper, garlic and thyme until they blister and start to
collapse. Use the back of a ladle to squish them through a sieve into a
clean pan, leaving behind the skin and seeds (discard these). Season
to taste with salt, pepper and a dash of cider vinegar, if needed, then
serve hot or chilled with good olive oil and torn basil.
 what’s good now.

NEXT
MONTH
Gill makes
ember-baked
beetroot with
horseradish mash
and toasted oats
 How to throw
the best party of
summer
Sultry evenings are made for sharing food with friends in the most stress-
free way possible. Solution? A pizza party! Prepare the dough and toppings
ahead, deck the garden with twinkling lights, fire up the oven, then invite
everyone to drink cocktails and feast on hot, freshly made pizzas

PIZZA PARTY MENU FOR 8

THE COCKTAIL
Elderflower prosecco
with cucumber

THE PIZZAS
Courgette, blue cheese and mint
with pumpkin seeds
Margherita with chorizo
Heirloom cherry tomatoes,
burrata and herb pesto

ON THE SIDE
Roasted pepper and aubergine
salad with crispy spiced chickpeas
and labneh

TO FINISH
Yuzu daiquiri cheesecake pots
with salted lime praline crumbs

RECIPES, FOOD STYLING AND STYLING LOUISE PICKFORD

PHOTOGRAPHS IAN WALLACE

44 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
the menu.

Basic pizza dough
ENOUGH FOR 9 X 30CM PIZZA BASES.
HANDS-ON TIME 50 MIN
Start the recipe the day before.
MAKE The dough tastes better after
AHEAD
a night in the fridge.
It’s hard to cook more than one
FOOD
TEAM’S pizza at a time, so make a large
TIPS
pizza to share, slicing and serving
it before cooking another one.
• 450g plain flour, plus extra for
dusting
• 450g strong white bread flour
• 2 tsp fine sea salt
• 1 tbsp dried active yeast
• 1 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for
greasing
1 Combine both flours and the salt in a
large mixing bowl. Put the yeast in a small
bowl and stir in 570ml cold water until
dissolved. Stir the yeast/water into the
flour mixture with the olive oil, then use
your hands to work together until just
combined. Add a splash more water if
needed – the dough should feel a little
46 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
sticky. Cover and chill for 15 minutes.
2 Tip the dough out onto a lightly floured
surface, then knead briskly for 5 minutes
or until the dough is smooth. Divide into 9
equal pieces, shaping into rounds. Transfer
to 2 well floured baking trays, cover with
lightly oiled cling film and chill overnight.
3 Take the dough out of the fridge 1 hour
before cooking. Generously flour 9 sheets
of non-stick baking paper and set aside.
Lightly flour the work surface. Take one
piece of dough and gently press to form a
flat disc. Using your fingers, gently press
the dough from the middle outwards to
form a rim about 1cm from the edge (this
will form the crust). Repeat 2 or 3 times
so each time the dough becomes larger
and thinner. At this stage you can pick the
dough up, allow it to hang down to stretch
it, and turn it several times until it forms
a circle about 25-30cm wide.
4 Put the base on a floured sheet of
baking paper. Top immediately, or chill
until ready to top and cook. Repeat.
PER PIZZA BASE 383kcals,
2.5g fat (0.5g saturated), 11.8g protein,
76.3g carbs (0.5g sugars), 1.1g salt,
3.7g fibre
THE PIZZA RECIPES
Courgette and
blue cheese pizza
MAKES 3 PIZZAS. HANDS-ON TIME 15-20
MIN, OVEN TIME 18-24 MIN, PLUS INFUSING
Lemon-flavoured olive oil
FOOD
TEAM’S adds an extra intensity to
TIP
the finished pizza and is
available from larger supermarkets.
If you can’t find it, infuse some
extra-virgin olive oil with lemon
zest several hours ahead.
• 1 medium courgette,
trimmed
• Finely grated zest 1 lemon
• 1 tbsp lemon olive oil (see tip),
plus extra to serve
• 3 x pizza dough bases (see
basic pizza dough recipe, left)
• Large handful fresh mint leaves
• 150g roquefort (or vegetarian
alternative), crumbled
• 150g buffalo mozzarella,
thinly sliced
• 3 tbsp shelled pumpkin seeds
1 Peel the courgette into long ribbons
using a Y-shaped peeler or slice
finely lengthways. Put in a bowl with
the lemon zest and lemon oil, then
season with salt and black pepper.
Set aside to infuse for 30 minutes.
2 Heat the oven to its highest setting
with either a pizza stone or heavy
baking sheet inside to heat up.
3 Transfer one flattened pizza dough
round, still on its baking paper, to
a baking sheet, then top with a third
of the toppings: courgette ribbons,
mint, blue cheese, mozzarella and
pumpkin seeds. Using the baking
paper, slide the pizza onto the hot
stone/baking sheet. Cook for 6-8
minutes or until the dough is puffed
at the edges and golden. Remove
the cooked pizza, leaving the stone/
sheet to heat up for the next pizza.
4 Transfer to a plate or board, then
drizzle with extra lemon oil and slice
to serve. Repeat with the remaining
2 dough bases and toppings.
PER PIZZA 834kcals, 39.7g fat
(19.4g saturated), 36.4g protein,
79.9g carbs (1.8g sugars), 3.7g salt,
5.5g fibre →
 the menu.

Courgette and blue

cheese pizza
SUSY ATKINS’ Margherita with chorizo
WINE PICKS
MAKES ENOUGH FOR 3 PIZZAS.
A crisp Italian
pecorino will HANDS-ON TIME 15-20 MIN, SIMMERING
work well with TIME 1 HOUR, OVEN TIME 18-24 MIN
the cherry
tomato, burrata
Make the tomato ragù
and herb pesto MAKE up to 2 days ahead, then
pizza. Pick AHEAD
a slightly riper cover and keep chilled.
Sicilian fiano for
the courgette and
blue cheese one. • 3 x pizza dough bases (see
The margherita basic pizza dough recipe, p44)
with chorizo • 100g chorizo, thinly sliced
pizza can take • 3 tbsp capers, drained
a light, fresh
Italian red such • 30g pitted black olives, halved
as marzemino • 250g buffalo mozzarella, sliced
or bardolino. • Handful fresh basil leaves
FOR THE TOMATO RAGÙ
• 500g ripe plum tomatoes,
roughly chopped
• 1 large garlic clove, finely chopped
• 2 tbsp olive oil
• ¼-½ tsp sugar
1 For the tomato ragù, put all the
ingredients in a saucepan, bring
to the boil, then simmer gently for
about 1 hour or until thickened and
reduced by half. Set aside to cool.
2 Heat the oven to its highest setting
with either a pizza stone or a heavy
baking sheet inside to heat up.
3 Transfer a prepared pizza base,
still on its baking paper, to a baking
sheet, then top it with a third of the
ragù, spreading it to within 2cm of
the edges. Add a third of the chorizo,
capers, olives and mozzarella.
4 Using the baking paper to help
you, slide the pizza onto the hot
stone/baking sheet. Cook for 6-8
minutes or until the dough is puffed
at the edges and golden. Remove
the pizza, leaving the stone/sheet
to heat up for the next one.
5 Transfer the pizza to a board, top
with basil and slice. Repeat with the
other 2 dough bases and toppings.
PER PIZZA 850kcals, 39.9g fat (17.4g
saturated), 36.5g protein, 83g carbs
(6g sugars), 3.8g salt, 6.8g fibre
Heirloom cherry
tomatoes, burrata
and herb pesto pizza
MAKES ENOUGH FOR 3 PIZZAS. HANDS-ON
TIME 15-20 MIN, OVEN TIME ABOUT 30 MIN
Make the herb pesto up
MAKE to a day ahead, then keep
AHEAD
covered in the fridge.
• 3 x pizza dough bases (see
basic pizza dough recipe, p44)
• 1kg mixed heirloom tomatoes,
halved, quartered or sliced
depending on size
• 2 x 100g balls burrata or buffalo
mozzarella, roughly torn
• Rocket leaves and parmesan (or
veggie equivalent) cheese
shavings to serve
FOR THE PESTO
• 30g mixed fresh herbs,
such as basil, mint and
parsley, finely chopped
• 1 garlic clove, chopped
• 2 tsp lemon juice
• 1 tsp dijon mustard
• Pinch caster sugar
• 75-100ml extra-virgin olive oil,
plus extra to drizzle
1 For the pesto, put the herbs,
garlic, lemon juice, mustard, sugar,
olive oil and some salt and pepper
in a mini food processor (or use a
stick blender and a jug), then whizz
until smooth and vibrant green.
Alternatively, crush all the
ingredients (except the oil) together
in a pestle and mortar to form a
paste, then slowly drizzle in the oil
until emulsified – see Make Ahead.
2 Heat the oven to its highest setting
with either a pizza stone or a heavy
baking sheet inside to heat up.
3 Transfer one of the prepared pizza
dough bases, still on its baking
paper, to a flat baking sheet. Top
with a third of the tomatoes, drizzle
over a little oil and season with salt
and pepper. Using the greaseproof
paper to help you, slide the pizza
onto the hot stone/sheet. Cook for
6-8 minutes or until the dough is
puffed at the edges and has turned
golden. Remove the pizza, leaving
the stone/baking sheet to heat up
for the next one.
4 Transfer the cooked pizza to a
chopping board, then top with a
third of the burrata, a drizzle of
herb pesto and a few rocket leaves
and cheese shavings. Slice to serve.
Repeat with the remaining 2 dough
bases and toppings.
PER PIZZA 835kcals, 40.7g fat
(13.3g saturated), 26.2g protein,
87.3g carbs (11g sugars), 1.9g salt,
7.3g fibre
ON THE SIDE
Roasted pepper and
aubergine salad with
crispy spiced chickpeas
and labneh
SERVES 8. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN,
PLUS 30 MINUTES DRAINING

Elderflower prosecco 1 Slice the cucumber lengthways, then use
with cucumber a teaspoon to scrape out and discard the
SERVES 8. HANDS-ON TIME 10 MIN seeds. Peel the cucumber into long, thin
ribbons using a Y-shaped peeler (or slice
• ½ large cucumber thinly with a sharp knife). Fill 8 tall glasses
• Ice cubes to serve with ice, divide the elderflower cordial,
• 180ml elderflower cordial prosecco and tonic water equally among the
• 750ml bottle prosecco glasses, then add the cucumber ribbons/
• 300ml tonic water or sparkling water slices and mint leaves. Squeeze over the lime
• Small handful fresh mint leaves wedges, then drop into the glasses. Swirl
• 2 limes, cut into wedges to mix. Serve with spiced nuts or crisps.
Prepare all the salad
MAKE components up to 4 hours
AHEAD
ahead, then toss with the
dressing when ready to serve.
Labneh is a thickened or
KNOW- strained yogurt used in
HOW
Middle Eastern cuisines. It’s
easy to make at home using the best
quality greek yogurt you can find.
It will still be pretty soft after only
30 minutes draining – leave it for
up to 12 hours for a firmer set. →

48 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 the menu.

Margherita
with chorizo

Roasted pepper and

aubergine salad with
crispy spiced chickpeas
and labneh
 Heirloom cherry
tomatoes, burrata
and herb pesto
pizza, p46

• 250g full-fat greek yogurt
• 4 red peppers, quartered
and deseeded
• 2 medium aubergines,
sliced into 1cm rounds
• 5 tbsp olive oil
• 400g can chickpeas,
drained and rinsed
• Finely grated zest 1 lemon
• ½ tsp smoked paprika
• 150g rocket
• Handful chopped fresh herbs, such
as coriander, basil, mint, parsley
FOR THE DRESSING
• Juice ½ lemon
• 1½ tsp honey
• ¼ tsp dried sumac
• 3-4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1 Heat the oven to 220°C/200°C fan/
gas 7. Put the yogurt in a sieve lined
with muslin or a clean J-cloth and
set aside to drain for 30 minutes
until thickened (see Know-how).
2 Put the peppers and aubergines in
a bowl, add 4 tbsp of the oil, season
with salt and pepper and mix well.
3 Heat a griddle pan and, once hot,
cook the peppers on a high heat for
5 minutes on each side until well
charred and starting to soften.
Transfer to a bowl and cover with
a tea towel so the peppers steam
lightly. Set aside until cooled.
4 Cook the aubergine slices in the
same way for 4-5 minutes on each
side until soft and golden. Set aside
to cool with the peppers, then chop
the aubergine slices into quarters
and thinly slice the peppers.
5 Meanwhile, put the chickpeas on a
baking tray lined with baking paper.
Add the lemon zest, paprika, the rest
of the oil and a little salt and pepper.
Stir, then roast for 20-25 minutes.
6 Whisk the dressing ingredients in
a bowl until smooth. Season to taste.
7 To serve, toss the roasted veg and
chickpeas with the rocket, herbs and
most of the dressing on a platter or
in a bowl. Dot with the labneh, then
drizzle with the rest of the dressing.
PER SERVING 225kcals, 15.7g fat
(3.9g saturated), 6.1g protein,
12.1g carbs (7g sugars), 0.1g salt,
5.8g fibre
TO FINISH
Yuzu daiquiri
cheesecakes
SERVES 8. HANDS-ON TIME 45 MIN,
PLUS AT LEAST 2 HOURS CHILLING
Make these to the end of
MAKE step 5 up to 24 hours ahead,
AHEAD
cover and keep in the fridge.
Yuzu is a Japanese citrus
KNOW- fruit with a flavour similar
HOW
to lime, grapefruit and
mandarin. It’s available from larger
supermarkets and online. Or use
a mixture of lime, grapefruit and
orange juice.
• 200g white chocolate,
chopped
• 50g butter, melted
• 175g digestive biscuits, crushed
• 75ml yuzu juice (see Know-how)
• 75ml vodka
• 125g caster sugar
• 250ml double cream, at room
temperature
• 600g full-fat cream cheese
(we used Philadelphia)
FOR THE SALTED LIME PRALINE
• 125g caster sugar
• Finely grated zest 3 limes
• ¼ tsp sea salt flakes
YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
• 8 martini glasses; piping bag fitted
with a large plain nozzle (optional);
baking tray lined with non-stick
baking paper; food processor
1 Melt the white chocolate in a bowl
set over a pan of gently simmering
water (don’t let the bowl touch the
water), stirring until smooth. Dip the
rims of the glasses into the melted
chocolate, then leave to cool. Keep
the remaining chocolate warm over
the pan of hot water, off the heat.
2 In another bowl, stir the melted
butter into the crushed digestives.
Divide equally among the glasses,
pressing down lightly with the end
of a rolling pin, then chill until set.
3 Combine the yuzu juice, vodka and
sugar in a small saucepan and heat
gently, stirring, until the sugar has
dissolved. Bring up to the boil, then
the menu.
take off the heat and leave to cool.
4 Add the cream to the warm melted
chocolate, stirring gently over the
heat until smooth and combined.
5 Put the cream cheese in a food
processor with the yuzu mixture,
then whizz briefly until smooth. Add
the melted chocolate mixture and
whizz again. Fill the piping bag,
if using, and pipe the mixture into
the glasses (or spoon it in). Chill for
at least 2 hours (see Make Ahead).
6 To make the praline put the 125g
caster sugar and 2 tbsp water in WIN A
a small saucepan over a very low PIZZA OVEN
heat. Stir gently until the sugar has
WORTH
dissolved, then bring to the boil and
cook without stirring for 5-6 minutes
£250!
or until the mixture turns to a golden GET THE PIZZA
caramel. Pour onto the prepared PARTY STARTED
baking tray, then set aside to cool. IN STYLE...
For your chance to
7 Roughly chop the hardened praline
win an outdoor
and put in a food processor with the gas-fired Ooni
lime zest and salt; whizz to make Koda pizza oven
a slightly chunky crumb mixture. and pizza peel,
go to delicious
8 Serve the cheesecakes topped magazine.co.uk/
with the salted lime praline. promotions. For
PER SERVING 762kcals, 50.5g fat more information
see uk.ooni.com.
(30.9g saturated), 8.1g protein,
Turn to delicious.
63g carbs (52.7g sugars), 1.2g salt, Kitchen for tips on
1g fibre using a pizza oven.
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 51
 ROAST OF THE MONTH
THE BARBIE
CROWDPLEASER
Harissa that wonderful North African spice paste packs a punch in this easy-going roast
chicken. It cooks in under an hour and is our new go-to dish for a relaxed lunch outside
Harissa, orange & honey
spatchcocked chicken
with pickled cabbage
and almond tabbouleh
SERVES 4-6. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN,
OVEN TIME 45 MIN, PLUS AT LEAST
2 HOURS MARINATING & PICKLING
Marinate the chicken,
MAKE covered in the fridge, up
AHEAD
to 1 day ahead. Make the
pickled cabbage up to 6 hours ahead.
To cook from start to finish
FOOD
TEAM’S on the barbecue, wait until
TIP
the coals have turned white.
Put the chicken directly on the grill,
then close the lid (or cover with
2 sheets of thick foil). Turn the bird
and baste with leftover marinade
every 15 minutes or so for 50-55
minutes, or until the juices run
clear when you pierce the thick
part of the thigh with a skewer.
• Finely grated zest and
juice 1 large orange
• 3 tbsp runny honey
• 4 tbsp rose harissa
• 1 tbsp olive oil
• Small bunch fresh thyme,
leaves picked
• 2kg free-range whole chicken
• Natural yogurt and flatbreads (or
a gluten-free alternative) to serve
FOR THE PICKLED CABBAGE
• 1 small red cabbage,
finely shredded
• Juice 3 limes
• 2 tsp sea salt flakes
52 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
• Small handful fresh coriander,
finely chopped
FOR THE ALMOND TABBOULEH
• 50g blanched almonds,
toasted in a dry pan
• 100g fresh flatleaf parsley,
finely chopped
• 2 fresh mint sprigs, finely chopped
• 2 spring onions, finely sliced
• Grated zest and juice 1 lemon
• 2 tomatoes, deseeded and chopped
• 4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 tsp sumac
• 2 tsp za’atar spice mix (check
the pack to see if it’s gluten-free)
1 In a bowl, mix the orange zest and
juice, honey, harissa, oil and most
of the thyme leaves. Set aside.
2 Put the chicken, breast-side up,
on a chopping board. Using a sharp
pair of scissors, snip off and discard
the wing tips and leg knuckles.
3 Turn the chicken breast-side down.
Starting at the parson’s nose (fleshy
end of the rump), cut along one side
of the backbone to the neck. Repeat
on the other side of the backbone,
then remove and discard the bone.
4 Turn the chicken back over and,
with the heel of your hand, press
down firmly in the centre. You’ll
hear the wishbone crack and the
chicken should flatten out easily.
5 Point the thighs inwards and, using
a sharp knife, score a few lines in
the flesh. Transfer to a baking tray
and pour the marinade over the
chicken, rubbing it well into the
cuts and gaps. Chill for at least
2 hours (see Make Ahead).
6 Mix all the ingredients for the
pickled cabbage (except the
coriander). Set aside for 2 hours
(see Make Ahead).
7 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/
gas 6. Roast the chicken for 40-45
minutes or until the juices run clear
when you pierce the thickest part
of the thigh or a digital probe
thermometer reads 72°C.
8 Once cooked, remove the chicken
from the oven and spoon over any
cooking juices. Heat the grill to
medium-high, then grill the chicken
on a clean tray or foil-lined grill pan
for 5-6 minutes until charred and
RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH. PHOTOGRAPH: GARETH MORGANS. STYLING: LUIS PERAL
golden. (For how to cook on the
barbecue, see tip.) Rest somewhere
warm for 10 minutes before carving.
9 Mix all the tabbouleh ingredients
in a serving bowl and season. Put
the pickled cabbage in a serving
bowl and stir in the coriander.
10 Serve the chicken on a board,
spooning over any resting juices
and sprinkling with the rest of
the thyme, alongside the pickled
cabbage, tabbouleh, natural yogurt
and warmed flatbreads.
PER SERVING (FOR 6) 482kcals,
23.2g fat (4.1g saturated), 53.2g
protein, 13.7g carbs (12.4g sugars),
2.4g salt, 3.6g fibre
WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE A fruity
South African chenin blanc makes
a lively, balanced match for this.
For more ways to use sumac,
see Loose Ends
weekend highlight.
SPEEDY + SIMPLE
= GREAT There’s nothing pretentious
about food writer John Whaite’s
recipes, yet they always deliver
on satisfaction and flavour.
These quick, simple dishes
from his latest book, A Flash
in the Pan, honour the best
ingredients and showcase
what good cooking is all about

Fishcake
rösti

PHOTOGRAPHS NASSIMA ROTHACKER

FOOD STYLING AND STYLING NICOLE HERFT
 book of the month.

Frying pan lasagne

SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN,
SIMMERING TIME 10-15 MIN

I’m not one for gimmicks, and

‘skillet lasagne’ is something
I’ve grimaced at on social media.
On trying it, however, I was an
instant convert. Granted, it
doesn’t have the depth of baked
lasagne, but what it lacks in size
it makes up for in convenience
and flavour. You might be
surprised that I don’t brown
the meat, but I find doing so
tends to toughen it. With this
method the meat stays tender.

FOOD Add a pinch or two of

TEAM’Ssugar to the tomato sauce
TIP
to balance the acidity.
Leftovers will keep covered
MAKE
AHEAD in the fridge for up to 2 days.
Reheat until piping hot.

• 2 tbsp olive oil

• 1 onion, finely chopped
• 1 tsp fennel seeds
• 3 garlic cloves, crushed
• 100ml red wine
• 2 x 400g cans cherry tomatoes
• 1 beef stock pot (we used Knorr)
• 1 tsp dried oregano
• 250g British beef mince
• 250g British free-range
pork mince
• 8 dried lasagne sheets,
broken into shards
• 125g ball mozzarella,
torn into chunks
FOR THE TOPPING
• 1 tsp olive oil
• 50g fresh breadcrumbs
• 2 tbsp finely chopped
fresh flatleaf parsley
RECIPES FROM A FLASH IN THE PAN (KYLE BOOKS)
Frying pan
lasagne
coloured and starting to soften.
2 Add the garlic and fry for just a few
seconds, then pour in the wine and
allow it to bubble and almost entirely
evaporate. Add the tomatoes, 200ml
cold water and the stock pot (see
tips). Allow to come to a bubble,
then add the oregano, minced beef
and minced pork. Stir to mix well,
then add the lasagne sheets – it’s
important to dot these around the
pan so they don’t clump together.
check the seasoning and add more
salt or pepper if needed.
4 While the sauce bubbles, make
the topping. Heat a small pan over a
medium heat. Add the olive oil and
breadcrumbs. Fry, tossing every so
often, until the breadcrumbs are just
toasted – about 3 minutes. Remove
from the heat and add the parsley.
5 In a small bowl, beat the ricotta
with the lemon zest and a generous
pinch of salt and pepper.

FOR THE LEMON RICOTTA
• 175g ricotta
• Finely grated zest ½ lemon
1 Put a large deep-sided frying pan
(use one with a lid) over a high heat
and add the oil. Once the oil is hot and
starts to shimmer, add the onion and
fennel seeds and fry, stirring, for
2 minutes until the onion is slightly
3 Allow the pan to come to the boil,
then reduce the heat to medium-
high, pop on the lid and cook for
5 minutes. Remove the lid and cook
for 10-15 minutes more, stirring
occasionally to avoid any bottom-
burning, until the sauce is reduced
and thick. Add the torn mozzarella,
plenty of salt and black pepper, and
stir to mix everything well. Taste to
6 Scatter the breadcrumbs on top
of the lasagne, then serve with
generous blobs of the lemon ricotta.
PER SERVING 731kcals, 35.4g fat
(15.1g saturated), 43.9g protein,
51.8g carbs (12.3g sugars),
1.8g salt, 5.6g fibre
WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE A ripe but
soft Italian red, such as valpolicella,
would be top of my list for this. →

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 55
 • Small handful fresh dill, MAKE These devilled eggs will
Speedy finely chopped AHEAD keep covered in the fridge
cookbooks have • 1 tbsp wholegrain mustard for up to 1 day.
been done before, • Rocket leaves
but many require • 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil • 6 large free-range eggs
so much • 4 pickled cucumbers, thinly sliced • Ice for cooling
equipment. Not • 2-3 tbsp mayonnaise
1 Spread a clean tea towel out on • 2 tbsp sriracha chilli sauce
all of us have a
the worktop and coarsely grate • 4 chives, finely chopped
blender or a food the potatoes into the centre of it.
processor… or a Sprinkle over the salt, then draw FOR THE BREADCRUMBS
gang of helpers to wash up behind the together the edges of the tea towel, • 15g unsalted butter
scenes. Speedy food doesn’t need to be encasing the grated potato in a tight • 30g breadcrumbs
complicated. It just needs a flash in the pan package, and squeeze like there is • 1 small garlic clove, bashed
and no trickery. Knife skills help, of course, no tomorrow. The excess water from • 2 tsp black sesame seeds
but home cooking shouldn’t require razor- the potatoes should trickle out – do
this over the sink, obviously. GOOD TO HAVE…
sharp agility. I hope you enjoy making these
2 When the potato is fairly dry, add • Piping bag fitted with
recipes, confident they can all be cooked in it to a bowl with the rest of the rösti a star-shaped nozzle
under 45 minutes. JOHN WHAITE ingredients except the butter – make
sure you flake the mackerel into 1 Bring a medium pan of water
pieces. Mix until well combined. to the boil. Once the water is at a
JOHN’S STORY 3 Set a large frying pan over a high rolling boil, gently lower in the eggs
He grew up on
a dairy farm and heat. Once the pan is hot, reduce the and cook for 12 minutes. Meanwhile,
his first job was heat to medium and add the butter. prepare a mixing bowl of iced water.
as a potato Divide the rösti mixture into 4. When the eggs have cooked for
peeler at his
parents’ fish Squeeze each portion into a tight 12 minutes, remove them from
and chip shop. ball with your hands, then flatten the hot water with a slotted spoon
He won the third into a fat disc. Put each disc in and put into the iced water. Leave
series of the
the pan and fry for 4-5 minutes them to cool for a few minutes.
BBC’s The Great
British Bake Off in per side until crispy and browned. 2 Meanwhile prepare the crumb.
2012 and later 4 While the röstis fry, mix together Set a large frying pan over a high
trained in Fishcake rösti the soured cream, dill and mustard heat and add the butter. When it
patisserie at
Le Cordon Bleu. SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN in a small bowl. Dress the rocket melts, add the breadcrumbs, whole
John has a leaves with the olive oil and salt. garlic clove and sesame seeds, then
first-class This is a hybrid between Serve the rösti with a pile of rocket toast, stirring, until crisp. Remove
degree in law a potato rösti and a fishcake – leaves, the pickled cucumber slices the pan from the heat and pluck
from Manchester
University, runs a two of my favourite lunches. and a dollop of soured cream mix. out the garlic (discard).
cookery school in I use shop-bought, ready- PER SERVING 474kcals, 36.4g fat 3 When the eggs are cool enough
rural Lancashire cooked peppered mackerel (15.7g saturated), 13.9g protein, to handle, peel, then halve them
and is a frequent
face on TV food
for this and serve it with 21.2g carbs (3.3g sugars), lengthways. Carefully remove the
programmes. equally peppery rocket. 2.4g salt, 2.7g fibre yolks – I find a teaspoon to be the
A Flash in the Pan WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE These best utensil. Empty the mixing
is John’s fifth FOR THE RÖSTI röstis are superb with a cool glass bowl of its iced water and quickly
cookery book.
• 400g maris piper potatoes of chablis from northern Burgundy. dry it, then put the yolks into it.
• 1 tsp fine sea salt Add the mayonnaise and sriracha,
• 3 spring onions, thinly sliced Sriracha devilled eggs then mash until smooth.
• 1 tbsp capers, drained SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, 4 Put the yolk mixture into a piping
and roughly chopped SIMMERING TIME 12 MIN bag fitted with a star nozzle and
• 150g peppered mackerel fillet, pipe the filling back into each egg
skin removed I adore sriracha. I can squeeze half (or fill the egg halves using a
• 1 large free-range egg it onto almost anything – teaspoon). Finish with a scattering
• ½ tsp ground white pepper especially hard-boiled eggs – and of chives and the breadcrumbs.
• 60g unsalted butter devour it with greedy glee. This PER SERVING 197kcals, 15.2g fat
recipe is a more sophisticated (3.5g saturated), 10g protein,
TO SERVE version of an elevenses snack 5.2g carbs (1.5g sugars),
• 150g soured cream I enjoy regularly. 0.5g salt, 0.2g fibre →

56 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 book of the month.

Sriracha
devilled eggs
Passion fruit tiramisu
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN,
PLUS AT LEAST 20 MIN CHILLING
The Italian tira (pull) mi (me)
su (on) loosely translates as ‘pick
me up’, so unless it’s spiked with
one of those godawful caffeine
drinks, it must contain coffee.
But it doesn’t need to be coffee
alone. Many flavours are suited
to the bitter tang of coffee – and
passion fruit is one of the best.
Cover the puddings and
MAKE
AHEAD chill for up to 4 hours.
Top with the remaining
passion fruit just before serving.
FOOD We used The Collective
TEAM’S passion fruit yogurt,
TIP
available from most
supermarkets. Use plain greek
yogurt if you can’t find passion
fruit yogurt.
• 8 trifle sponge fingers
• 3 tbsp Kahlúa
• 1 tbsp instant coffee granules
• 4 ripe passion fruit
• 500g mascarpone cheese
• 100g passion fruit yogurt
(see tip)
• 75ml condensed milk
YOU’LL ALSO NEED
• 4 medium wine glasses
1 Break up the sponge fingers and
divide them evenly among the wine
glasses. In a small bowl, mix the
Kahlúa, instant coffee, 3 tbsp water
and the pulp of 3 passion fruit, then
divide among the glasses, pressing
down the sponges to soak them well.
2 Put the mascarpone, yogurt and
condensed milk in a mixing bowl
and whisk until smooth. Divide the
cream among the glasses, spooning
it on top of the soaked sponges.
Chill for 20 minutes. Just before
serving, top with the pulp from the
remaining passion fruit.
PER SERVING 795kcals, 58.6g fat
(38.5g saturated), 11.3g protein,
51.1g carbs (41.2g sugars), 0.4g salt,
1.2g fibre
WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE An
intensely sweet dessert wine such
as an Australian botrytis semillon.
 book of the month.

Sour cherry and

mahlab welsh cakes
MAKES 16-20. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN

Welsh cakes, like scones,

are the epitome of resourceful
baking. With just a few pantry
ingredients, you can easily
rustle up something wholesome
and satiating. My version, while
similar to the original in form
and texture, diverts from
tradition with the use of mahlab
and sour cherries. Mahlab is
the dried pit of a wild cherry
and is used across eastern
Mediterranean countries in
savoury and sweet dishes. Its
flavour is like a muted amaretto
– as though an almond ghost
has floated through the dish.
It’s readily available online,
so do give these a try.

These welsh cakes will

MAKE
AHEAD keep in an airtight container
for up to 2 days.
FOOD Buy mahlab powder from
TEAM’S souschef.co.uk or ottolenghi. Sour cherry and
TIP
co.uk. If you can’t get any, mahlab welsh
use a splash of almond extract. cakes

• 250g self-raising flour,

plus extra for dusting
• Pinch fine sea salt
• 1 tbsp mahlab powder (see tip)
• 75g caster sugar, plus a little
extra for sprinkling
• 120g unsalted butter, cubed,
plus extra for frying
• 80g dried sour cherries
(from large supermarkets),
roughly chopped
• 1 large free-range egg
• 3 tbsp amaretto
YOU’LL ALSO NEED
• 6cm cookie cutter
1 In a mixing bowl, toss together the
flour, salt, mahlab and caster sugar.
Add the butter and rub it into the
dry ingredients as though you were
making a pastry or crumble – just
flick it between the tips of your first
two fingers and thumbs until the
mixture resembles inelegant
breadcrumbs. Toss the sour cherries
with the mixture. Make a well in
the centre, then add the egg and
amaretto. Using a butter knife, cut
the wet ingredients into the dry
ingredients until everything starts
to clump together, at which point
it’s best to get your hands in there
and briefly knead until a smooth
dough forms. As soon as you have
a smooth dough, stop working it.
2 Dust the worktop with flour and
gently roll out the dough until it’s
about 1cm thick. Cut out as many
discs as you can using the cookie
cutter – you can use an upturned
wine glass if you’re not bothered
about quantities. Whatever you
use, swirl it in flour first to stop the
dough sticking. Ball up the offcuts,
re-roll and cut out more discs.
3 Heat a large frying pan over a
medium heat. Add a knob of butter
to the pan and swirl to coat, then
pop in as many welsh cakes as
possible – don’t crowd the pan – and
if you start at 12 o’clock and work
your way around, you’ll always
remember which one went into the
pan first. Fry on one side for 3-4
minutes until deeply golden brown,
then flip and fry on the other side
for a further 3-4 minutes. Add more
butter if needed and fry the rest
of the welsh cakes, in batches.
4 Put the hot welsh cakes on a wire
rack and sprinkle with a little caster
sugar. The cakes are delicious warm
but will still satisfy after a day or two
if you keep them in an airtight tin.
PER CAKE (FOR 20) 134kcals, 6.1g
fat (3.7g saturated), 1.8g protein,
16.7g carbs (7.2g sugars), 0.2g salt,
0.8g fibre
WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE The welsh
cakes are great with tea or coffee
but, if served for dessert, make it a
sweet golden moscatel de Valencia.→

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 59
book of the month.
Butterscotch and
pecan marshmallow
popcorn bites
MAKES 12. HANDS-ON TIME 45 MIN
Never did a title more
perfectly represent the delicacy.
The title here is a mouthful,
and so are these chewy,
moreish bites. They’re like
posh krispie cakes.
The bites will keep
MAKE
AHEAD covered in a cool place
for up to 2 days.
FOOD Before shaping the bites
TEAM’S (step 4), chill the mixture
TIP
in the fridge for 15 minutes
and lightly oil your hands.
• 60g salted popcorn
• 75g shelled pecans
• 60g salted butter
• 75g dark brown muscovado sugar
• 150g mini marshmallows
• Pinch sea salt flakes
• 200g dark chocolate (60 per cent
cocoa solids), roughly chopped
• Sunflower oil for greasing
(optional)
60 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
1 Put the popcorn in a large mixing
bowl. Set a medium saucepan over
a high heat. Once the pan is hot,
add the pecans and toast, tossing
occasionally, for a minute or so until
the nuts fill the air with a light aroma.
Chop the nuts roughly and put them
in the bowl with the popcorn.
2 Return the pan to the heat and add
the butter, allowing it to melt and
sizzle. Once the butter has melted,
add the sugar and stir until the butter
and sugar are just about mixed
together – it will look fairly split for
a while. Reduce the heat to medium
and add the marshmallows and 1
tbsp water. Stir for 1-2 minutes until
the marshmallows melt completely
and you have a thick but very
smooth – and I’m sorry for this
description – goo. Pour the mixture
over the popcorn and pecans, along
with the sea salt flakes, and stir to
combine. It’ll be fairly stiff, but keep
at it until everything is reasonably
mixed. Leave to cool (see tip).
3 Meanwhile, fill the same pan (no
need to clean it) with about 2cm of
hot tap water and set it over a high
heat. Put the chocolate in a small
heatproof bowl.
Reduce the heat
under the pan to
medium and set the
bowl over the steaming
water (don’t let the bowl
touch the water). Allow
the chocolate to melt,
stirring occasionally.
Once melted, remove
the pan from the heat.
4 Divide the popcorn
mixture into 12 and roll
each portion into a ball.
These will be so sticky that
at one point along the way
you may start doubting all
your life choices, but keep
at it (see tip). Dip half of each
ball in the chocolate, then
transfer to a sheet of baking
paper to set before eating.
PER POPCORN BITE
259kcals, 14.3g fat (5.8g
saturated), 2.5g protein,
29.2g carbs (24g sugars),
0.3g salt, 1.4g fibre
For more ways
to use up pecans
see Loose Ends
NEXT
MONTH
Richly satisfying
recipes from the
chefs at Dishoom

A fine vintage
Take your summer cooking to the next level with
a generous sprinkling of Grana Padano cheese
S
ummer and Italian cuisine
go hand in hand. Bright,
fresh ingredients that go
together with minimum fuss can
create vibrant pastas and salads
that are best enjoyed piled into
bowls al fresco. Of course, it
wouldn’t really be Italian if it
didn’t feature a healthy helping
of cheese. Grana Padano, with its
well-rounded flavour, is perfect
for melting into creamy sauces
or sprinkling over finished dishes.
There are three Grana Padano
vintages with different maturation
For more cheesy Italian recipes, visit granapadano.it
 GranaPadano_UK  granapadano  @GranaPadanoUK
stages. Grana Padano cheese
matured for up to 16 months has
a mellow finish that works shaved
into salads or grated into a classic
béchamel. After 16 months, the
cheese grows sharper, with tangy
notes cutting through the milky
sweetness. Finally, Grana Padano
Riserva is matured for at least 20
months, creating a rich cheese that
brings out the best in so many dishes
– and your cheeseboard. Make this
simple spaghetti by Italian chef
Francesco Mazzei to experience
Grana Padano in all its glory.
Spaghetti with pink
peppercorns, lemon &
Grana Padano Riserva
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN
• 400g dried spaghetti
• 50g butter
• 1 large lemon (an Amalfi lemon
if you can get hold of one), zested
and juiced
• 1 tsp crushed pink peppercorns,
plus 1 tsp whole pink peppercorns
• 100g Grana Padano Riserva,
grated
• Handful freshly chopped parsley
1 Bring a large pan of salted water
to the boil and cook the spaghetti
according to the packet instructions
until al dente (firm to the bite).
2 Meanwhile, melt the butter in a
separate pan. Stir in three quarters
of the lemon zest and the crushed
pink peppercorns.
3 Once the pasta is cooked, transfer
it to the pan with the peppercorns
using a pair of tongs and reserve a
cup of the pasta water. Gradually stir
the pasta water (no more than
200ml) into the pan with the pasta.
4 Take off the heat, add the lemon
juice and sprinkle over the Grana
Padano Riserva. Garnish with the
remaining lemon zest, whole
peppercorns and parsley, and serve.
 ITALY’S
LIQUID
GOLD

Velvety sharp-sweet balsamic vinegar is one of Italy’s most revered ingredients, but it’s also
the most misunderstood, with so many inferior imposters on shop shelves. Food writer
Valentina Harris and chef Theo Randall travelled to Modena, in the Emilia-Romagna region,
to unravel the intricacies of a complex ingredient that no cook’s kitchen should be without
62 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 the ingredient.

Theo Randall,
opposite, beholds
the world's biggest
vinegar barrel at
Casa Mazzetti in
Modena, owned by
Cesare Mazzetti,
above

WORDS VALENTINA HARRIS RECIPES THEO RANDALL

PHOTOGRAPHS CHARLIE RICHARDS
FOOD STYLING SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH
STYLING VICTORIA ELDRIDGE
 canals, the flat farmland covered
with cherry orchards, maize and
other crops. Ghostly abandoned
farmhouses and crumbling country
villas are stark reminders of the
devastation brought by the
earthquakes in the Emilia-
Romagna region in May 2012.
After driving along winding roads
through villages, over bridges and
past dykes and canals, we eventually
reached Casa Mazzetti, the world’s
largest producer of balsamic vinegar.
The building, painted a jolly yellow,
replaces the 1906 original that was
destroyed in the 2012 earthquakes.
A BIT OF HISTORY
their own. Cesare’s grandfather was
a grappa distiller and a supplier of
maraschino cherries, making a little
balsamic as a hobby. The balsamic
casks were stored in attics because
the marshy land was prone to
flooding. Barrels also benefited from
the area's seasonal temperature
variations: the cold of winter created
sediment and clarity, while summer
heat concentrated the sugars.
Around the 1600s, as more
people moved from the countryside
to set up home in the city, two
local businessmen spotted an
opportunity. Messrs Giusti and
Fini (still two of the best-known
producers) began buying up barrels

C
A BIT ABOUT obbled streets in the elegant Owner Cesare Mazzetti was keen of balsamic to continue the
THEO & northen Italian city of to tell me all about balsamic. Why, production on their behalf. They
VALENTINA
Theo is a
Modena meander between I wanted to know, did it come from diluted traditional balsamic with
world-class chef tall buildings and lead to the bell this small corner of Italy? “It’s all wine vinegar, as people did at
with his own tower of the romanesque cathedral. down to geography and climate,” home, to create a saleable product.
Italian restaurant Known as La Ghirlandina, it’s a Cesare explained. The marshy land Giusti and Fini sold it locally. Thus
at London’s
InterContinental symbol of the city. Nearby, a less allows for particular bacteria to began commercial production of
hotel. Veteran grand building houses the Acetaia develop. And the local use of what is now known as Balsamic
food writer and Comunale: a small balsamic balsamic, as both condiment and Vinegar of Modena PGI (see box).
Italian cookery
production centre in the town hall. medicine (balsamic refers to its The vinegar got a big break in the
teacher Valentina
is the delicious. It’s also a symbol, one that displays medical use as balm), is said to go 1980s when American chefs realised
Produce Awards balsamic vinegar’s importance to as far back as the first century BC. the sweet-sour taste suited the
ambassador. Modena and beyond. Traditional balsamic (see box, American palate. “Soon, American
Flat, marshy landscapes surround below) was only made privately at importers were coming to Italy in
the city, crisscrossed by rivers and first, and many families still make a quest for balsamic vinegar. My
grandfather, with my help, became
a supplier, using his maraschino
BALSAMIC VINEGAR: THE ESSENTIALS (READ FIRST!) bottles,” Cesare recalled.

HOW IT’S MADE
All balsamic vinegar begins
with grape must (pressed
grapes containing juice,
seeds, pulp, skin and
stems). It’s filtered, then
boiled to concentrate it.
The concentrated must is
matured in wooden casks
– oak, chestnut, mulberry
and juniper. Each gives its
own flavours and aromas.
THE TWO TYPES
l Traditional Balsamic
Vinegar of Modena PDO
(Protected Designation of
Origin). The refining and
ageing process of this rare
vinegar can take decades,
and it’s pricey – expect to
pay upwards of £85 for a
tiny (60ml) bottle. Permitted
grapes for the must are
mainly lambrusco with
a small quantity of uva d’oro
and trebbiano. Mazzetti
sells just 50 litres of
traditional balsamic a year.
l Balsamic Vinegar of
Modena PGI (Protected
Geographical Indication).
This is the commonly found,
non-traditional stuff. To
make it, a minimum of
10 per cent of concentrated
must is blended with wine
vinegar before the refining
and ageing process begins.
This has to take at least 60
days, but only a vinegar
matured for three years can
be labelled ‘aged’. The must
can be made from a wider
range of grape varieties
than the traditional stuff.
Mazzetti currently has
15 million litres of non-
traditional PGI balsamic
being processed. It’s
affordable but varies in
price according to various
factors (see box, p68). PGI
vinegar also has its own
grading system on the
bottles, using leaves (see
box, opposite).
MAGIC IN THE CELLAR
Half the space in Casa Mazzetti is
given over to producing traditional
undiluted balsamic. Casks, made
of different woods and of ever-
decreasing size, are stacked up in
batteries (rows) in the cellar. The
room is beautifully lit, each cask
with a small opening to permit
evaporation, covered with a square
of muslin. It’s impossible not to be
affected by the magic happening
around us, the bacterial colonies
hard at work inside the casks.
There’s even opera playing
(Cesare is convinced it improves
the quality of the product).
During the cask-ageing process,
the developing vinegar eats into the
fibres of the wood, releasing flavour.
 the ingredient.

GEEKY FACT
It takes 600kg
grapes to make
1 litre of 25-year-
old traditional
balsamic

CHEF THEO’S
LEAVES ON THE LABEL: THE GRADING RULES FOR COOKING
SYSTEM FOR PGI BALSAMIC VINEGAR WITH BALSAMIC
This was introduced 20 years ago to help consumers choose PGI
Traditional balsamic
(non-traditional) balsamic and advise them how to use it, though not
vinegar should be treated
all bottles come with a leaf on the label, even at Mazzetti. There are
with the utmost respect.
four grades – generally, the more leaves the better the vinegar
Remember this is an ancient
ONE LEAF of sweetness and a FOUR LEAVES method that produces tiny quantities, so its
For use in salad bit less of the sharp For sophisticated flavour should be savoured. Enjoy it with
dressings and qualities of vinegar. recipes or to drip chunks of parmesan and a slice of prosciutto
everyday use. It has THREE LEAVES over fresh fruit such di Parma. I like to cook with PGI balsamic.
a light flavour and For roast meats as strawberries, The acidity level tends to be high, and when it’s
is very acidic; the and with fish, this to drizzle over ice heated and reduced it adds a depth of flavour
sourness of vinegar vinegar can be cream or as a dip for like no other vinegar. I love using it with
is strong, especially drizzled directly onto chunks of parmesan. radicchio – the combination of the bitter leaf
on the nose. food and is sweeter, It has a sweet with the sweet acidic vinegar complements
TWO LEAVES with a smooth, flavour, more like radicchio’s natural bitterness. On the other
For marinades and rounded flavour. traditional balsamic, hand, adding a tablespoon to roast root veg
steamed veg, this It can also be used with aromas of with garlic and fresh thyme complements
balsamic has a hint in hot sauces. caramel or tamarind. the natural sweetness of the vegetables.

To keep these precious qualities, “We make 7 million litres of

the barrel is often given a wooden
sleeve to prevent leakage without
disturbing the interaction between
wood and grape must.
In a separate section of the
Balsamico di Modena PGI – we
have the industry’s largest capacity
for the ageing process – but we
produce very little of the precious
tradizionale. There isn’t the
THE KEY POINTS
TO REMEMBERÉ
l Traditional balsamic is too precious to be used
for cooking. Use it as a special dressing.
l Depending on its quality, PGI balsamic can

building where the non-traditional
PGI balsamic is made, we were
introduced to Hercules, the world’s
largest wooden vinegar barrel,
filled with balsamic. Another room
resembles a winery, with vast
demand,” Cesare told us.
In the tasting room, we learned
how traditional balsamic stands
out in terms of flavour, texture,
aroma and quality. The best have
notes of caramel and tamarind.
be used more freely. The one and two Leaf
versions should be treated much like ordinary
wine vinegar and can be boiled down to reduce
their acidity. Three and four Leaf vinegars can
add a balanced sweet-sour flavour to a dish.
l Use sparingly and always taste the vinegar

containers of balsamic lining the I spotted some of the maraschino before adding it to a dish.
walls. It’s less romantic than the bottles, covered with straw – a nod
softly lit room filled with song, but to Cesare’s own family roots and Turn the page for Theo’s balsamic recipes →
one cannot exist without the other. a reminder of how it all began.

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 65
 artichokes) are smaller and more
tender than globe artichokes. They
require less trimming and don’t
have a large thistly choke in the
middle. Buy them from good
greengrocers or online from
finefoodspecialist.co.uk.If you
can’t find them, cook more of the
other vegetables.

• 2 quality thick-cut British

Bring to the boil and simmer for 20 dry-aged sirloin or ribeye
minutes or until tender. Drain, then steaks, around 200g each
season with salt, pepper, a drizzle • Olive oil for rubbing
of olive oil and 1 tsp of the balsamic • Lemon wedges for squeezing
vinegar. Keep warm and set aside.
2 Cook the chard in a large pan of FOR THE CHILLI-PARSLEY SAUCE
boiling water for 2-3 minutes or • 1 garlic clove, chopped
Balsamic until the leaves are very tender. • Sea salt flakes
lifts this scallop
dish to new heights Drain, then roughly chop. • 1 red chilli, deseeded
3 Heat 2 tbsp olive oil in a saucepan, and finely chopped
add the garlic, fennel seeds and • 1 tbsp chopped fresh
SUSY ATKINS’ Pan-fried scallops chopped chard, then cook gently flatleaf parsley
WINE PICKS
Match the
with lentils and chard for 3 minutes. Set aside. • 1 tbsp good quality balsamic
scallops with SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, 4 Season the scallops, then toss in vinegar (see bottom left), plus
a good-quality SIMMERING TIME 20 MIN a bowl with 1 tbsp balsamic vinegar extra to drizzle
Italian white with and ½ tbsp olive oil; marinate for
enough weight
In winter this dish is great 10 minutes. Heat a non-stick pan FOR THE DEEP-FRIED VEGETABLES
to take on the FOOD
earthy lentils – TEAM’S with cime di rapa (a type until very hot, then add the scallops • 1 litre sunflower oil for deep-frying
TIPS
an arneis from of bitter-leaf brassica) and cook for 2-3 minutes on each • 2 violet artichokes (see Know-how)
Piedmont is ideal. instead of chard. Instead of the side until golden. Turn down the • 1 large portobello mushroom,
For the
radicchio and large brown castelluccio lentils you heat, then add the sage leaves, cut into 1cm slices
balsamic risotto, could use smaller green puy lentils. anchovies, capers, chilli flakes • 2 courgettes, cut into 1cm slices
try a crisp Italian and the remaining 1 tbsp balsamic. • 500ml whole milk
white, such as • 150g castelluccio lentils 5 Divide the warm lentils among • 200g ‘00’ flour (see Know-how)
a cool-climate
sauvignon blanc (see Know-how) 4 warmed plates. Top with the
from Italy’s • 2½ tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, chard, followed by the scallops, USEFUL TO HAVE…
northeast or a plus extra to drizzle then drizzle over the chilli, sage, • Digital probe thermometer;
lemony pecorino.
Tuscan reds,
• 2 tbsp, plus 1 tsp good quality capers and anchovies. Serve a board or large plate lined
especially chianti balsamic vinegar (see left) straightaway. with a few sheets of kitchen paper
classico and • 300g rainbow chard PER SERVING 281kcals, 9.6g fat (1.4g
brunello di (see Know-how) saturated), 22.4g protein, 22.9g carbs 1 For the chilli-parsley sauce, put
montalcino with
their red cherry • 1 garlic clove, finely sliced (5.4g sugars), 0.8g salt, 7.1g fibre the garlic in a pestle and mortar
and strawberry • Pinch fennel seeds, lightly crushed with a pinch of sea salt flakes, then
notes, are • 8 large sustainable Scottish Steak with chilli-parsley grind to a paste. Transfer to a bowl,
perfect for the
beef steaks.
scallops with coral intact sauce and deep-fried then stir in the remaining sauce
(ask your fishmonger to vegetables ingredients and set aside.
prepare them for you) SERVES 2. HANDS-ON TIME 40 MIN 2 Half fill a large, deep heavy-based
• 4 large fresh sage leaves saucepan with the oil and set over
• 4 anchovy fillets in olive oil, ‘00’ flour is a very fine a medium heat until the temperature
drained and chopped KNOW- Italian flour used to make reads 180°C on a digital thermometer
↗FOR ALL THESE HOW
RECIPES WE • 1 tbsp small capers pasta and pizza. Find it in (or when a cube of bread turns
USED MAZZETTI in vinegar, drained larger supermarkets or substitute golden brown in 30-40 seconds).
BALSAMIC VINEGAR
OF MODENA • Pinch chilli flakes for strong white bread flour. 3 Meanwhile prepare the artichokes.
ETICHETTA ORO, Violet artichokes, also known Trim or peel away the tough outer
FROM SAINSBURY’S,
WAITROSE AND 1 Put the lentils in a saucepan and as baby artichokes or baby purple leaves, then chop off about one third
OCADO cover generously with cold water. artichokes (not purple globe from the top and 1cm from the →

66 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 the ingredient.

Steak with chilli-

parsley sauce and
deep-fried vegetables
the ingredient.
Risotto with a
bitter-sweet-
savoury tang
stem. Put in a bowl with the
mushroom and courgettes,
pour in the milk and set aside.
4 Heat the oven to 120°C/100°C fan/
gas ½. Heat a griddle pan on the hob
until very hot. Season the steaks
with salt and pepper and rub all
over with olive oil. Griddle for
2 minutes on each side (for rare)
until golden brown, pressing down
so the fat melts. If you prefer more
well done steaks, cook for 3-4
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
WHEN BUYING BALSAMIC
The first thing to consider is what you want to use
it for – see the leaf grading system, p65. Next,
look at the price and how long the vinegar has
been aged for – but bear in mind that ageing isn’t
always the most reliable sign of quality when
choosing, as there are so many other variables,
such as the grape varieties and types of wood used
for the casks – and the climate and temperatures
during the process. In a nutshell: taste different
vinegars until you find a style you like.
68 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
minutes on each side. Transfer the
steaks from the pan to a warm plate
to rest while you fry the vegetables.
5 Put the flour in a large mixing bowl.
Working in batches of 6-7 slices,
remove the vegetables from the milk
and add to the flour, tossing well to
coat. Transfer to a sieve and shake
off the excess flour. Carefully lower
each batch of vegetables into the hot
oil and deep-fry for 2-3 minutes
until crisp and golden all over.
Remove with a slotted spoon and
drain on the kitchen paper. Season
with salt, then keep warm on a tray
in the oven while you fry the rest.
6 Trim the fat from the steaks,
then slice at an angle. Transfer to
a board or 2 warmed plates, drizzle
with the chilli-parsley sauce and
splash with a little extra balsamic
vinegar. Serve the veg alongside,
with lemon wedges for squeezing.
PER SERVING 899kcals, 34.4g fat
(8.5g saturated), 62.9g protein,
80.5g carbs (15.2g sugars), 0.5g
salt, 7.8g fibre
Radicchio risotto with
balsamic vinegar
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 1 HOUR
• 50g unsalted butter
• 2 small heads radicchio (or
chicory), finely shredded
• 1 garlic clove, sliced
• 1 fresh rosemary sprig,
leaves picked and chopped
• 2 tbsp good quality balsamic
vinegar (see p66), plus extra to
drizzle
• 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 small red onion, finely chopped
• 1 celery stick, finely chopped
• 200g carnaroli risotto rice
• 4 tbsp dry white wine
• 1 litre fresh chicken stock, hot
• Small handful chopped
fresh flatleaf parsley
• 100g parmesan or vegetarian
alternative, grated
1 Melt 25g of the butter in a frying
pan, then add the radicchio, garlic,
rosemary and balsamic vinegar.
Cook gently until wilted. Season
with salt and pepper, then set aside.
2 Heat the olive oil in a large heavy-
based pan, add the onion and celery
and cook gently for 6-8 minutes
until softened. Add the rice and stir
for 5 minutes until translucent.
3 Increase the heat and add the
wine. Stir until most of the wine
has been absorbed. Start adding
the hot stock, little by little, stirring
all the time and allowing each
addition to be absorbed before
adding more. After 10 minutes add
the radicchio mixture and continue
cooking and adding stock. The
finished risotto should be creamy
and the rice should still have bite,
but not a crunch.
4 Stir in the parsley, most of the
cheese and the remaining 25g
butter. Season to taste with salt and
pepper, then serve in warm bowls,
topped with the remaining grated
cheese and an extra drizzle of
balsamic vinegar.
PER SERVING 522kcals, 26.9g fat
(12.9g saturated), 19.1g protein,
47.1g carbs (5.6g sugars), 0.8g salt,
1.8g fibre
 TASTES LIKE HOME

“Mum taught me that food

needs love and care”
Blogger Irina Georgescu has made the UK her home, but it’s her Romanian culinary heritage
– and especially her mum’s cooking – that remain her source of pride and inspiration

Pickles are important to Romanians, and we have many ways of • 20g fresh dill, chopped
cooking and eating them. I never pass up a chance to eat gherkins, • Crusty bread to serve
whether as a snack, a side dish or even in a stew.
When I was growing up in Bucharest, pickling and preserving food 1 Heat the oil in a casserole over a
was a necessity. Food wasn’t widely available; the shops were full of medium heat, then add the chicken
jars of beetroot and pre-boiled carrots but not much else. At times and brown for 5 minutes on each
basic ingredients were rationed, and I remember coming home from side. Remove the chicken from the
school only to go straight out again to wait in a queue for food. pan and set aside on a plate.
In summer and autumn, the markets were suddenly bursting with fresh fruit and veg. 2 Add the onions to the same pan,
We ate seasonally and preserved this abundance in colourful jars of pickles, jams, relishes stirring to coat in the oil and scraping
and compotes. Our 40sq m apartment had a tiny pantry in the hallway that was a magical up any sticky bits at the bottom
world to me. I was always excited to go and get a jar of this or that when my mum needed of the pan. Cook for 8-10 minutes
it in the kitchen. They were pots of delicious temptations waiting to be devoured. until softened and translucent.
Making them was a family affair, and we learned to respect the work that went into 3 Add the white wine, bubble for
what we ate. For pickling gherkins, Mum was the one to make the brine just salty enough 1 minute, then add the stock and
for them to develop a satisfying crunch. Dad packed them tightly into jars, covering the the browned chicken thighs.
tops with dill, while my sister and I cut string or cellophane to cover and tie them. Cover with the lid and cook over
Mum didn’t use recipes and had a natural flair for cooking. Helping her make this a medium heat for 5 minutes.
stew taught me about simplicity how food needs love and care not only when we 4 Add the tinned tomatoes, tomato
grow it but when we prepare it, too. purée, sugar and gherkins, stir
gently, then cover and simmer for
15 minutes. If it starts to dry out,
Romanian chicken add a splash of water – the stew

PR ID E AND JOY
nt s, and gherkin stew
Ir ina w ith her pare SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN,
Constantin
and Lucia SIMMERING TIME 30 MIN
Leftover stew will keep
MAKE covered in the fridge
AHEAD
for up to 3 days.
• 1 tbsp sunflower oil
• 4 skinless, boneless free-range
chicken thighs
• 3 red onions, finely sliced
• 100ml dry white wine
• 250ml chicken stock
• 400g tin chopped tomatoes
• 1 tbsp tomato purée
↗ VISIT LIFEINSMALLBITES.CO.UK FOR MORE OF IRINA’S ROMANIAN • 1 tsp caster sugar
STORIES. IRINA’S DEBUT COOKBOOK, CARPATHIA: A CULINARY FUSION
OF EAST AND WEST FROM THE HEART OF ROMANIA, WILL BE PUBLISHED
• 700g gherkins (drained weight),
IN SPRING 2020 BY WHITE LION PUBLISHING. sliced into rounds
PHOTOGRAPH: MAJA SMEND. FOOD STYLING: OLIVIA SPURRELL. STYLING: VICTORIA ELDRIDGE
should be juicy around the edges
but not watery. It’s ready once the
chicken has cooked through and
the gherkins are soft in the middle
but retain a slight crunch.
5 Just before serving, stir in most
of the dill, season to taste, then
spoon into warmed bowls and
sprinkle the remaining dill over
the top. Serve with bread to soak
up all the delicious juices.
PER SERVING 245kcals, 5.9g fat
(1.2g saturated), 25.5g protein,
15.0g carbs (12.7g sugars),
3.4g salt, 5.4g fibre
WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE The pickled
gherkins in this dish call for a tangy,
fairly acidic white such as a French
sauvignon blanc.

70 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
food memories.
 delicious. PRODUCE AWARDS WINNER

“I don’t want to grow

anything normal”
A lifetime of plant knowledge, hard graft and an artist’s eye are the secret ingredients in
Amanda Stradling’s superlative salads. Phoebe Stone stepped inside the polytunnel to learn more
PHOTOGRAPHS DAVID CHARBIT STILL LIFE STUART WEST
 food hero.

WHAT MAKES WYE VALLEY

SALADS WORTHY OF A
delicious. PRODUCE AWARD?
The variety and diversity of Amanda’s
salads are astonishing, as is the intensity
of the flavours. Her expertise in growing
and mixing, plus the effort required to
handpick the choicest flowers, leaves and
tips from each plant, creates salads that
are stunning to look at and exciting to
eat. Everything is grown on organic
principles and picked fresh to order,
making Amanda’s vibrant harvest
a worthy winner.

WHAT THE JUDGES SAID

Editor Karen Barnes “Truly impressive
mix of herbs, flowers and flavours.”
Wine writer Susy Atkins “Cleverly
contrasting colours and textures.”
Chef and TV presenter Andi Oliver
“I’ve never been so excited about a bag
of salad… It’s like a treasure hunt!”
Cook and writer Lucas Hollweg
“Extraordinary, delicious leaves. Distinct
flavours and wonderful surprises.”

FOUR FACTS ABOUT GROWING

EDIBLE FLOWERS AND LEAVES
1
There are around 600 varieties of
edible flowers: a lot, but not limitless.
Meet the producer
2 A
Just because something is technically manda Stradling has been passionate about plants for as long as she can
edible/safe to eat doesn’t mean it remember. “I used to insist on picking every single daisy before my dad
will taste good – it takes time to learn mowed the lawn,” she recalls. “A friend and I used to sell them at a penny
what flavours plants can offer. a bunch. That’s where my entrepreneurial skills started!”

3 Her green fingers have been her livelihood since, variously as a gardener, florist,
Amanda’s harvest season is from
March to November. Winter is her photographer and plant buyer. In 2010, having set up home near Ross-on-Wye in
prime time for planning and re-sowing. Herefordshire, Amanda started selling plants that would appeal to food lovers.

4
The buds and shoots of plants are
sweeter because of the higher levels
of sugar in young cells.
SUPPORTING THE COMMUNITY
• The business employs local people
to help pick, blend, bag and weigh.
“Everyone who comes and helps gets
to put their handprint on our chiller
unit and gets a title, such as ‘the
world’s best digger driver’.”
• Amanda uses local manure as
fertiliser. “I magic away all the horse
manure, which we then compost. I’m
known locally as the sh*t fairy!”
BLOSSOMING BUSINESS
Nine years later, Amanda’s four-and-a-half acres are home to more than 150
varieties of edible plant. Chervil and dahlias spring up next to ornamental kales
like an English garden in wild, exuberant bloom. Amanda brushes a hand across
several leaves. “This one’s lime basil,” she says, plucking some for me to taste.
“This is golden purslane. It’s almost citrussy… Can you get the lemon at the end?”
It’s little wonder that chefs love what Amanda grows. Her customers include
Chris Harrod from Michelin-starred The Whitebrook near Monmouth and
Stephen Terry from Abergavenny’s The Hardwick. “I went out with my first
load in the back of my family car to meet chefs,” she says. “They were like
kids in a sweet shop!” She sends a text listing what’s available on Monday and
delivers on Thursday, leaving at 4am to make sure produce arrives before lunch.
A HEAD FOR PLANTS
Courgettes, coloured beetroot and heritage tomatoes also prosper in Amanda’s
market garden, but unusual salads are increasingly her focus. “It’s easier to →

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 73
 grow salads because there’s always something you can The ethos of FIVE OF THE BEST THINGS
pick, use and eat,” says Amanda. “With the vegetables, ABOUT GROWING SALADS
supplying local
you have to start from scratch every year.” Everything
1
It’s creative. Amanda gets to
is grown from seed, which Amanda carefully sources.
One success story is barba di frate, also known as
is important indulge her love of colour, design
and photography.
monk’s beard, which won a Highly Commended in our Produce Awards. Amanda
2
Contributing to the local food
credits her clay-rich soil with helping the salty, succulent-like Italian vegetable thrive, scene. “A chef told me that people
and she grows all her plants as naturally as possible. Salad plants are fed sustainably like me enable him to do what he does.
produced liquid seaweed, insect netting keeps out bugs, and boiled rhubarb leaves It’s a joy from that point of view.”
make a natural herbicide. The bags the salads are packed in are biodegradable, too.
3
Being in nature. “I like being outside
Much of the plastic ground sheeting used to conserve moisture and help prevent weeds – rain or shine, it doesn’t matter.”
is recycled from a local marquee company.
Around 30kg of salad is picked by hand to order each week. Delicate shoots, tips and
blossoms of plants are used to create micro salads, which might include asparagus heads
4 It’s an adventure. “We never know
what we’re going to put in the salads.
We pick what’s best, and there are
and mini radishes too, alongside a leafier chef’s garden salad. Other choice morsels are quite strong flavours in it sometimes.”
foraged from Amanda’s own garden and strip of oak woodland that’s home to wild garlic,
5
The commute. “It goes from my
violets and forget-me-nots. “I’m a plants-woman; that’s what I love,” she says. back door through my lovely
garden… It’s wonderful.”
HAPPY VALLEY
“I think chefs like us because I’m aware of their plating requirements,” says … AND FIVE OF THE WORST
Amanda. It was local chef Franco Taruschio, who ran renowned Abergavenny
1
It’s physically demanding. Amanda
restaurant The Walnut Tree for over 30 years, who nominated Amanda for the has suffered tennis elbow and
Produce Awards. “The ethos of supplying local is important to me,” she reflects. carpal tunnel syndrome, and has
“We’re really proud to come from the Wye Valley.” developed a skin reaction from
overexposure to certain plants.

2
Weather conditions. It can be
uncomfortable working outside in
the wind and rain, and the summer
heat in the polytunnels is intense.
“The only way you can stay cool enough
is to go in there with wet clothes on.”

3 Long hours being tied to one place.

“It’s 24/7, because I’m a perfectionist
and I live where I work.” Summer is
high season, so there are limited
opportunities for holidays.

4
Delegating and organising. “I need
to put all the things that I have in my
head down on paper because the plant
buying and growing knowledge are all
down to me,” says Amanda.

5
The pressure to deliver to top
chefs’ high standards. “I did once
SHE EATS SHOOTS AND LEAVES ...plus buds and flowers, all handpicked by Amanda and her team
turn up to deliver veg on the back of
of locals and blended by hand to order; even the fertiliser comes from nearby farms
an AA breakdown recovery truck,”
Amanda laughs. Sometimes chefs’
needs change and our ingredients are
no longer required, which is tough.

WHERE TO BUY
Barba di frate (monk’s beard) is
available April-October for UK
delivery at barbadifrate.com.
To enquire about buying salads
or punnets of edible flowers,
call 07766 128735.

The recipe
Baby leaf salad with
bacon and tarragon
croutons and
edible flowers
SERVES 4 AS A STARTER OR SIDE DISH.
HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN
Store croutons and dressing
MAKE
AHEAD in separate airtight
containers for up to 2 days.
• 6 streaky bacon rashers
• Splash rapeseed oil
• 1 large slice sourdough, finely torn
• 3 fresh tarragon sprigs,
leaves picked
RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH. PHOTOGRAPH: MAJA SMEND. STYLING: VICTORIA ELDRIDGE
• 125g mixed baby salad leaves
• Edible flowers, available from
larger supermarkets
FOR THE DRESSING
• ½ tsp dijon mustard
• 3 tbsp rapeseed oil
• 1 tbsp moscatel or sherry vinegar
• Juice ½ lemon
1 Put all the dressing ingredients
in a clean jar with a pinch each of
salt and finely ground black pepper.
Seal tightly, then shake to emulsify
the dressing. Set aside.
2 Heat a non-stick frying pan, add
the bacon and fry until very crisp.
Use tongs to transfer the bacon to
food hero.
a plate, leaving the bacon fat
PRODUCE
behind in the pan. Add a splash of
oil and the torn bread. Toss to coat
in the fat, then fry until crisp and
golden. Transfer to a bowl.
3 Chop the bacon as finely as
AWARDS
possible, then stir into the croutons
with the tarragon leaves.
4 Toss the salad leaves with most of
the bacon croutons. Serve in a bowl
or on a platter, drizzled with the
dressing, then scatter over the rest
of the croutons. Finish by sprinkling
with a selection of edible flowers.
PER SERVING 222kcals, 18.2g fat NEXT
MONTH
(3.7g saturated), 7.6g protein,
Rooney Fish’s
6.4g carbs (0.9g sugars), Millbay pacific
1.4g salt, 0.8g fibre oysters
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 75
 FRED & KAY’S MOVIE NIGHT

THE FILM
OCEAN’S ELEVEN (2001)
Good films and great food are partners in crime (this is a heist movie,
after all). Food writer Kay Plunkett-Hogge and movie buff Fred Hogge
explain why this Brad Pitt/George Clooney classic is their choice
of the month – and serve it up with a classic American dish of the day

• ¼ iceberg lettuce, shredded

THE PLOT DIGESTED • 1 tbsp chopped fresh chives
On his release from prison, Danny Ocean (George Clooney) • 2 spring onions, chopped
assembles a crack team to rob three Las Vegas casinos in one night • 400g sustainably sourced
and, just maybe, win back the heart of his ex-wife Tess (Julia Roberts). cooked king prawns, shelled
WHY KAY LOVES THIS FILM (if you like, save 4 unshelled
I love a good heist movie. I love a bit of snappy dialogue, some prawns for garnishing)
West Coast cool and some Kentucky Clooney. And I don’t have to • Paprika for dusting
reach very far for a food connection in this update of the 1960 Rat Pack
caper because Rusty Ryan (Brad Pitt) is always eating. YOU’LL ALSO NEED

RECIPE: KAY PLUNKETT-HOGGE. PHOTOGRAPH: MAJA SMEND. FOOD STYLING: JEN BEDLOE. STYLING: VICTORIA ELDRIDGE
Mr Pitt claims this is because his character is constantly on the • 4 wine glasses or
move and doesn’t know when he’ll next have the chance for a snack. champagne coupes
Hogwash! It’s one of the oldest acting tricks in the book: eating to
steal the scene from anyone you have to share it with. (Don’t believe 1 Mix the mayo, ketchup, Tabasco
me? Watch Tom Cruise blow Demi Moore and Kevin Pollak off the and sherry in a mixing bowl until
screen in A Few Good Men with… an apple.) well combined. Season to taste with
THE RECIPE TO EAT AS YOU WATCH lemon juice, salt and black pepper.
With this much star-power crammed into the movie, Brad uses 2 Divide the shredded lettuce among
food to hold your attention (he can’t flash his chiselled abs, so the the glasses or coupes. Sprinkle
poor boy has to do something). And when Julia Roberts joins him and over the chopped chives and spring
Matt Damon in shot, he brings out the big guns: a shrimp cocktail (or, in onions, then top with the prawns
UK English, a prawn cocktail). How much more retro Vegas can you get? and sauce. Dust each portion with
paprika and put a lemon wedge
on the side for squeezing. Serve
Classic prawn cocktail out the stone, put the flesh back and straightaway.
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN serve the prawns in mango halves, PER SERVING 186kcals, 11.9g fat
using limes instead of lemons. (1.1g saturated), 15.8g protein,
Prepare the prawns and 3.2g carbs (3.2g sugars), 1.7g salt,
MAKE
AHEAD marie-rose sauce up to a • 4 tbsp good-quality mayonnaise 0.7g fibre
day ahead and keep them (we like Delouis) WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE The best
covered, separately, in the fridge. • 2 tbsp tomato ketchup bottle for this has to be a zesty,
NEXT
MONTH KAY’S If you can find some good • 4 big shakes Tabasco sauce lemon-fresh Loire Valley sauvignon
MUM’S ripe mangoes – the keitt • 1 tsp dry sherry blanc – choose a sancerre, pouilly-
Fred and Kay TIP
pick a toothsome variety are around now – • Juice ½ lemon, plus wedges fumé or an inexpensive sauvignon
recipe for Jaws forgo the lettuce in glasses, scoop to serve (see tip) blanc from Touraine.

76 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 favourites.

The habit of serving

this ubiquitous starter
in cocktail glasses
has been linked to the
ban on alcohol in the
US during the 1920s
Prohibition era
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deliciousmagazine.co.uk 79
drinks.
WHAT TO DRINK
Susy Atkins picks her top August bottles, plus drinks to enjoy with steak
THE BARGAIN RED
Co-op Fairtrade Bonarda-
Malbec 2018, Famatina
Valley, Argentina (£5.25)
A brightly fruity, ripe and
smooth blend of two popular
Argentinian grapes.
Strawberry and redcurrant
flavours abound; crack it open
outside for barbecued pork.
THE HOT PARTY POP
Marks & Spencer Cava
Rosado NV, Spain (£7)
M&S’s pink cava is on splendid
form, bursting with vivacious,
tangy flavours of fresh
strawberries and rhubarb,
ending on a softer, rounded
note. Drink cold on its own
or pair with a plate of jamón.
WHAT GOES WITH... A GOOD STEAK?
I
t’s tempting to roll out a chunky,
powerful red with any red meat,
but for a straightforward steak that
has no sauce or marinade and is cooked
without any smoke or barbecue char,
keep it simple. Best are medium-bodied
reds with juicy red-berry fruit such as
gamay (the beaujolais grape), Italy’s
dolcetto or a mid-priced chianti.
Adding lots of pepper or a side of
mustard with your steak calls for
cranking up the wine to something
more robust. Slightly spicy syrahs and
Rhône reds rule here – try a well-priced
côtes du rhône or a premium
châteauneuf-du-pape for a treat.
If your steak has a sweet, sticky
80 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
THE BARGAIN WHITE
Makaraka Sauvignon Blanc
2018, Marlborough,
New Zealand (£5.49, Aldi)
Well-made NZ sauv blanc at
an eye-catching price – not too
sour or grassy, with lively lime
and passion fruit notes and
a balanced 12.5 per cent abv.
Try it with a Thai green curry.
THE SPLASH-OUT
SUMMER WHITE
Taste the Difference Gavi di
Gavi 2018, Piedmont, Italy
(£12, Sainsbury’s)
A cut (well) above most
supermarket Italian whites,
with delectable hints of apple
and tangerine. Wonderful
with white fish or scallops.
marinade or smoky sauce with it –
and especially if it’s been charred
on the barbie – make it a ripe, bold
New World red with plenty of
concentrated fruit flavours and oaky
spice. Try Aussie shiraz, premium
South African pinotage or Californian
cabernet as well as a top-notch,
oak-aged Argentinian malbec. Try
the following bottles including, for
something different, a spicy ale:
• Marks & Spencer Beaujolais
2018, France (£7)
A bright young beaujolais, garnet-hued,
with a cocktail of fresh blackcurrant,
cherry and strawberry fruit. Just right
with a simple, rare, grilled fillet steak.
THE MIDWEEK TREAT
Beaumarchais Côtes-du-
Rhône Villages 2017, France
(£9.99, down to £7.49 until
13 August, Waitrose)
Easy-going, rich but mellow red,
mainly grenache with a sprinkle
of syrah and carignan. Plummy
and brambly; match it with
posh sausages and burgers.
THE HOLIDAY GIN
Terres de Mistral Gin,
Provence, France (£23/50cl,
Tesco; £27.90/70cl, Majestic)
Although it’s a traditional
dry gin, Provençal botanicals
including thyme, basil and
fennel have added their own
aromatic notes and there’s
a fresh citrus finish.
• Taste the Difference Morador
Malbec 2018, Mendoza, Argentina
(£8.50, Sainsbury’s)
Super-concentrated but smooth and
rounded, this malbec has black cherry
and damson flavours with a hint of
spicy oak; a barbecued steak wine.
• Innis & Gunn Barrel-Aged The Original
ILLUSTRATION: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES
Scotch Ale (£1.80/33cl, widely available)
A rich, malty ale laced with sweeter
vanilla and caramel notes from ageing
in bourbon barrels, this is my go-to
beer for steak with the addition of
smoky marinades or sauces.
 Make it
EVERY DAY
F O R A B R I G H T, F E E L G O O D A U G U S T

MEAL BRING SUMMER

d. PLANNER HOME p84
Midweek recipes with a taste of the Med
NEED HELP DECIDING
WHAT TO COOK?
Try our delicious. STICKY BBQ RIBS p90
Meal Planner for Make double and freeze half
tailormade recipe
choices, plus one-click
shopping for all
the ingredients. VEGGIE HEAVEN p98
It couldn’t be easier! Outstanding recipes from a Greek kitchen
deliciousmagazine.co.uk/mealplanner

YOGURT POPS p103

– with a piña colada vibe

TURN THE PAGE FOR THE RECIPES →

 THE HEALTH DEBRIEF
& FAD-FREE insight & DEBUNKED food & health news & HEALTHFUL ways to eat better &
COMPILED EACH MONTH BY SUE QUINN

THE DIETITIAN’S VIEW
BY RENEE MCGREGOR
“While a balanced vegan
approach to nutrition can
be a healthy way of eating,
a vegan diet isn’t necessarily
a more beneficial one.”
The number of vegans in
Great Britain quadrupled
between 2014 and 2018,
from 150,000 to 600,000,
according to The Vegan
Society. Moving to a vegan
diet takes careful planning
to ensure the body has all
the nutrients it requires –
getting sufficient calcium
and the right mix of
essential amino acids
from plant proteins need
particular attention.
A balanced vegan diet
will provide the majority
of necessary nutrients, but
will lack vitamin B12 unless
a supplement is taken – it’s
only found naturally in foods
from animal sources. Vitamin
D, iron (and calcium) may
also need supplementing.
Generally, people who
become vegan are open to
learning more about how
to ensure their diet provides
all their nutritional needs.
For some, however, veganism
Season’s eatings
What’s good for you and at its
best right now…
BLUEBERRIES
These little jewels of the fruit
world are delectable and
famously nutritious. They’re
brimming with anthocyanins, compounds
that give them their vibrant purple colour and
are also thought to have antioxidant properties
is chosen because of a
that repair cell damage. Blueberries are excellent
heightened need to control
sources of vitamins C and K, too.
their food intake, and
HOW TO PREP AND COOK
can be the hallmark of a
Nothing beats the pop of fresh blueberries
dysfunctional relationship
added to salads with goat’s cheese and soft
with food. As well as meat,
herbs or greek yogurt for breakfast – but
fish and dairy, such people
they’re sublime when cooked, too. For an easy
may also cut out sugar and
compote, put blueberries in a pan, add a splash
gluten – and may restrict their
of water, then lightly crush and simmer gently
carbohydrate intake, perhaps
until the berries split and their juices run.
creating elaborate plates of
FREEZE THEM
vegetables that look colourful
The berries freeze beautifully – put them in a resealable
and wholesome on Instagram,
freezer bag, keep in the freezer and you’ll have a ready
but lack sufficient energy
stash for crumbles and pies when the season’s over.
and protein. In cases like
these, veganism can spiral
out of control, leaving the
individual severely lacking
IN: CHICKPEA FLOUR
Ring some flavour changes by using
in essential nutrients, as chickpea flour instead of white
well as causing a heightened flour now and then. Also known
sense of anxiety when their as gram flour, it’s made from
specific ‘food rules’ can’t be finely ground dried chickpeas
met. And there’s nothing and widely used in Indian,
southern European, North
healthy about that. BECAUSE SMALL
African and Southeast
CHANGES CAN MAKE Asian cuisines. Gluten-
↖RENEE MCGREGOR BSC PGDIP
SPECIALISES IN SPORTS NUTRITION
A BIG NUTRITIONAL free and surprisingly
AND EATING DISORDERS. HER BOOKS DIFFERENCE versatile, with an
INCLUDE TRAINING FOOD, THE FAST appealing earthy
FUEL SERIES AND ORTHOREXIA
(NOURISH BOOKS). OUT: WHITE flavour, it makes a crisp,
tasty batter for fried foods
FLOUR and is great in savoury
pancakes (such as Italian
farinata) and flatbreads.
WHY IT’S GOOD FOR YOU
Because chickpea flour is made
from pulses, it’s higher in fibre
and protein than many other flours
and an excellent source of iron.

82 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 your health.

SHOPPING
TROLLEY
You don’t have to be
vegan to enjoy nutritional yeast.
An edible deactivated yeast that
comes in flakes, it has a distinctive
umami flavour that makes it a
popular cheese substitute for
vegans, and it’s increasingly
popular with omnivores, too. As
well as being flavourful, nutritional
yeast is a good source of protein
and vitamins, and it’s widely
available fortified with vitamin B12.
BEHIND THE HEADLINES
“Skipping breakfast may raise risk of heart
disease by up to 87 per cent, study finds,”
claimed one recent headline.
So, does our health depend on an early morning
meal? Nope. In fact, the NHS website declares this
headline was, basically, wrong. The study only looked at
the risk of cardiovascular death, not how many people developed cardiovascular
diseases such as coronary heart disease (which is not always fatal). What’s more,
the study only found a possible link between skipping breakfast and death from
heart disease, but no proof that one caused the other. Other lifestyle habits such
as a poor diet or lack of exercise, for example, might have been to blame.

MYTHBUSTER
If you think ultra-processed bread is a
savoury food, think again. Sliced processed
loaves, including supposedly ‘healthy’ wholegrain
#PITAYATrending…

Also known as dragon fruit

and wholemeal versions, can contain as much as 3g (Hylocereus undatus/costaricensis),
of sugar per slice. Some of this is naturally occurring it’s turning Instagram pink as
or formed during the fermentation process, but sugar is so-called wellness experts claim
often added as well. Unfortunately, manufacturers aren’t as it as a superfood. With white or
yet obliged to list added sugar separately on the ingredients red flesh, strawberry-hued skin
list. If possible, buy bread from a bakery, where you can and flame-like spikes, it’s certainly
ask exactly what the loaf contains. photogenic. But take superfood
claims with a pinch of salt: pitaya’s
nutrient content has not yet been
thoroughly analysed by the
US Department of Agriculture,
one of the recognised authorities
on the nutrient content of food
and ingredients.

RESEARCH CORNER
A fascinating new study has found
“almost zero” correlation between
ILLUSTRATIONS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES
Netherlands, France and the USA. In with whole grains’ can be used on a
a joint study published in the Journal product only containing a small fraction
of Public Policy & Marketing, the of whole grains, while ‘all natural’ can
authors identified a “worrying result” be applied to virtually any product,” the

health claims on the front of
breakfast cereal packaging and
the actual nutrition quality of the
contents. Yet many consumers still
base their buying choices on the claims,
according to researchers from the
relating to packaging claims such as
“all natural” and “made with whole
grains”. Researchers said these terms
were “almost meaningless”, but were
particularly effective at encouraging
consumers to buy. “The phrase ‘made
study found. The researchers suggested
that regulators consider tightening
controls on packaging claims. Consumers
are urged to read nutrition details
carefully and not rely on the messages
they read on packaging.

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 83
 MIDWEEK MEALS

TASTE OF THE MED

Dreaming of sunny climes and holiday vibes? Bring the Mediterranean’s
sun-kissed flavours to your dinner table with these good-for-you
and family-pleasing weeknight suppers for four

SUPPER IN
A ROASTING
TIN

WEEKNIGHT
PROMISE
Your guarantee for every recipe
in this feature? NO MORE THAN…
• 10 ingredients (excluding butter/oil
and serving suggestions)
• 30 minutes hands-on time
• 650 calories per portion
Chorizo-crumbed
• 10g saturated fat per portion
cod loin, pepper and
PLUS… olive traybake
• No unnecessary
added sugar

RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING OLIVIA SPURRELL PHOTOGRAPHS MAJA SMEND STYLING MORAG FARQUHAR
 make it every day.

SPAIN
Chorizo-crumbed
cod loin, pepper
and olive traybake
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN,
TASTIER
THAN A
OVEN TIME 55 MIN

FOOD
If you can’t get hold of TAKEAWAY
TEAM’Spiccarella peppers, use
TIP
the same weight of regular
mixed peppers, roughly chopped.

• 500g new potatoes, halved if large

• 1 tbsp olive oil
• 120g chorizo, chopped
• 75g dried breadcrumbs
• Grated zest and juice 1 lemon
• 25g manchego cheese, grated
• 300-400g baby sweet (piccarella)
peppers – see tip
• 4 x 175g sustainably sourced
cod loins
• 100g pitted green olives,
halved or sliced
• Chopped fresh flatleaf
parsley to serve

1 Heat the oven to 220°C/200°C fan/

gas 7. In a roasting tin, toss the
new potatoes in the olive oil, season
with salt and pepper, then transfer
to the oven to roast for 25 minutes.
2 Meanwhile, heat a non-stick
frying pan, add the chorizo and
cook for 4-5 minutes until it has
released most of its oil. Add the
breadcrumbs, then cook for another
3-4 minutes until crisp. Transfer
to a food processor with the lemon
zest and manchego, then whizz to
fine crumbs.
3 Add the peppers to the potatoes in
the roasting tin, toss to coat in the
oil, then roast for 15 minutes more.
4 Toss the cod loins in the lemon
juice, then spoon over the chorizo
crumb, pressing down to make a
crust on top of each piece. Put the
fish on top of the veg in the roasting
tin, then return to the oven for
another 10-15 minutes or until the
fish is cooked through. Scatter over
the olives and parsley and serve.
PER SERVING 519kcals, 19.5g fat
(6.5g saturated), 45.8g protein,
38.2g carbs (7g sugars), 2.7g salt,
3.8g fibre
TURKEY
Quick chicken kebabs
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN,
PLUS MARINATING
• 100g thick greek yogurt
• 1 tbsp sweet smoked paprika
• 1 tsp ground cumin
• 1 garlic clove, crushed
• 550g free-range skinless
boneless chicken thighs
• 4 flatbreads or tortilla wraps
• ½ large cucumber, deseeded
and sliced into half moons
• 200g cherry tomatoes, halved
• 2 little gem lettuces, torn
• Pickled green chillies to serve
1 Mix the yogurt, paprika, cumin and
garlic in a large ceramic or glass mixing
bowl and season with salt and pepper.
Transfer a generous spoonful to another
small bowl and set aside. Toss the
chicken in the large bowl with the yogurt
marinade, then set aside for 30 minutes
or as long as you can. (You could do this
the night before; cover it and leave it to
marinate in the fridge.)
2 Heat the grill to medium high. Put the
marinated chicken thighs on a lined grill
pan and grill for 8-10 minutes, then turn
and grill for 5-6 minutes until cooked
through and charred in places. Transfer
to a board and roughly chop.
3 Heat the flatbreads under the grill for
1-2 minutes, then divide the chicken,
cucumber, tomatoes and lettuce equally
among the wraps. Add a spoonful of
cold water to the reserved bowl of yogurt
mixture to thin slightly and make a
dressing. Drizzle some into the wraps,
then roll up and serve with the pickled
green chillies on the side.
PER SERVING 524kcals, 16.4g fat (4.4g
saturated), 40.5g protein, 51.1g carbs
(5.4g sugars), 2g salt, 5.2g fibre →

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 85
 EASY
MEAT-FREE
MEAL
ITALY
Aubergine milanese
with spaghetti
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN
• Olive oil for frying and drizzling
• 1 onion, chopped
• 2 garlic cloves, crushed
• 400g tin chopped tomatoes
• 75g plain flour
• 2 free-range eggs, beaten
• 100g panko breadcrumbs
• 50g grated parmesan or
vegetarian alternative
• 2 large aubergines,
sliced into 1cm rounds
• 300g spaghetti
• Fresh basil leaves to serve
1 Heat a glug of olive oil in a large frying
pan. Add the onion and cook gently for
6 minutes until starting to soften. Add
the garlic and cook for 2 minutes more,
then pour in the tomatoes and simmer
gently for 20 minutes. Taste and season.
2 Meanwhile, put the flour, eggs and
breadcrumbs in 3 separate shallow bowls,
then stir the parmesan into the crumbs.
Dip the aubergine slices first into the flour,
then the egg and finally the breadcrumbs.
Heat a glug of oil in another frying pan and
fry the aubergine slices for 3-4 minutes
on each side until golden. Drain on kitchen
86 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
GREAT
ALTERNATIVE
TO LASAGNE
paper and season lightly with salt.
3 Bring a pan of salted water to the boil
and cook the spaghetti according to the
pack instructions. Drain, return to the pan
and toss with a drizzle of oil, then stir in
the tomato sauce. Serve in bowls topped
with the aubergine slices and basil leaves.
PER SERVING 629kcals, 14.8g fat (4.6g
saturated), 25g protein, 94.6g carbs
(10.2g sugars), 0.7g salt, 8.8g fibre
GREECE
Pasticcio
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN,
OVEN TIME 25 MIN
Mediterranean seasoning is a
FOOD
TEAM’S blend of dried peppers, herbs and
TIP
spices – we used Bart Blends (for
larger supermarkets and Ocado.com).
• 1 tbsp vegetable oil
• 1 red onion, finely chopped
• 400g British lamb mince (10% fat)
• 1½ tsp Mediterranean seasoning (see tip)
• 4 garlic cloves, crushed
• 400g tin chopped tomatoes
• 2 tsp chopped fresh oregano, plus
extra to serve (or ½ tsp dried)
• 275g dried macaroni
FOR THE TOPPING
• 150-200ml full-fat thick greek yogurt
• 1 medium free-range egg, beaten
• 80g good-quality feta, crumbled
1 Heat the oil in a large frying pan over
a medium heat. Add the onion and cook,
stirring, for 6-8 minutes until softening.
Increase the heat, add the mince and cook,
stirring, for 5 minutes until browned.
2 Add the Mediterranean seasoning and
garlic to the pan and cook, stirring, for
1 minute. Add the tomatoes, half-fill the can
with water, then add it to the pan with the
oregano. Bring to the boil, then season and
reduce the heat. Simmer for 20 minutes.
3 Heat the oven to 180°C/160°C fan/gas 4.
For the topping, in a mixing bowl combine
the yogurt, egg and half the feta. Season
with pepper (feta is already salty).
4 Cook the macaroni in a large pan of
boiling salted water until just al dente.
Drain, then spoon half into a deep
ovenproof dish and season with salt and
pepper. Top with the mince, then add the
remaining macaroni, pressing down with
the back of a spoon.
5 Spoon the yogurt topping over the pasta
to cover, then scatter with the remaining
feta to finish. Bake for 25 minutes or until
golden and bubbling. Serve sprinkled
with extra oregano, if you like.
PER SERVING 596kcals, 22.7g fat (10g
saturated), 36.8g protein, 58.4g carbs
(9.2g sugars), 0.7g salt, 5.4g fibre
 make it every day.

FRANCE
Sausage, lentil and
goat’s cheese salad
with tapenade dressing
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN, FILLING
OVEN TIME 25 MIN SALAD
• 8 British free-range reduced-fat
MAIN
pork sausages
• 3 red onions, cut into wedges
• 4 fresh thyme sprigs
• Glug vegetable oil
• 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
• 4 tsp red wine vinegar
• 2 tbsp black olive tapenade
• 2 x 250g pouches ready-cooked
puy lentils (or use the same
weight of tinned)
• 120g rocket leaves
• 100g rinded goat’s cheese log
• 2 tbsp chopped parsley

1 Heat the oven to 220°C/200°C fan/

gas 7. Put the sausages, red onion
wedges and thyme in a roasting
tray, drizzle with a glug of vegetable
oil, season with salt and pepper and
roast for 20-25 minutes, or until the
sausages are cooked through and
the onions are soft and caramelised.
2 For the tapenade dressing, whisk
the extra-virgin olive oil, vinegar
and tapenade in a small bowl, then
season with black pepper (tapenade
is already salty). Warm the lentils
according to pack instructions, then
transfer to a bowl.
3 Transfer the cooked sausages to a
board and slice each diagonally into
3 pieces. Add to the bowl of lentils
along with the onions, rocket and
half the dressing. Season to taste.
4 Transfer the salad to a serving
platter (or individual plates),
crumble over the goat’s cheese,
then drizzle with the remaining
dressing. Sprinkle with the parsley
and serve straightaway.
PER SERVING 550kcals, 25.8g fat
(9.4g saturated), 37g protein,
35.9g carbs (8.7g sugars),
1.7g salt, 13.2g fibre
For more ways to use black
olive tapenade, see Loose Ends

NEXT MONTH
The one-stop midweek shop
make it every day.

THE LEFTOVERS
RECIPE After they’ve done lunch duty, use a few spare tortilla
wraps to help make a filling midweek meal for four

Mexican chicken and

ADDS A red rice burrito bowls
SATISFYING SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN,
CRUNCH SIMMERING TIME 5 MIN
Keep the cooled tortilla
MAKE croutons in an airtight
AHEAD
container for up to 2 days.
• Juice 2 limes, plus extra
wedges to serve
• 1 small red onion, finely sliced
• 2 leftover corn tortilla wraps
• 450g leftover roast chicken or
3 cooked free-range chicken
breasts, shredded
1 Put the lime juice in a small
glass or ceramic bowl, then add
the red onion and a generous pinch
of salt. Toss, then set aside to
quick-pickle.
2 Heat the grill to medium-high.
Grill the wraps for a minute or so
on each side until lightly golden.
Cool, then roughly break up to make
passata and bring to a simmer, cook
for a few minutes, then add the rice.
Cook for 5 minutes until piping hot.
4 Toss the sweetcorn, black beans
and most of the coriander together
in a mixing bowl.
5 Divide the rice, sweetcorn and
bean mixture, quick-pickled red
onion and shredded chicken among
4 serving bowls. Top with the tortilla
croutons and remaining coriander,
then serve with lime wedges to
squeeze over.

RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH. PHOTOGRAPH: STUART WEST. STYLING: MORAG FARQUHAR
• 1 tbsp vegetable oil chunky croutons (see Make Ahead). PER SERVING 494kcals, 10.7g fat
• 2-3 tbsp fajita spice mix, to taste 3 Heat the vegetable oil in a frying (2.3g saturated), 43.7g protein,
• 200ml tomato passata pan, add the spice mix and fry for 52.2g carbs (8.5g sugars),
• 250g cooked basmati rice (use a 1 minute until fragrant. Pour in the 1.5g salt, 6.8g fibre
ready-cooked pouch if you want to)
• 198g tin sweetcorn, drained
• 400g tin black beans, drained
and rinsed
• Large handful fresh coriander,
roughly chopped

88 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
Tender and delicious in the finest olive oil.
You’ve not tasted tuna, until you’ve
tasted Rio Mare.

N°1 in Italia
www.riomare.com
Available from: Tesco, Ocado, Amazon and your local Italian Delicatessen.
BATCH-COOK RECIPE
Cook the ribs when you have time, then keep half in the freezer for a quick weeknight supper

The master recipe

Slow-cooked
baby back pork ribs FREEZER
FRIENDLY
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN,
OVEN TIME 3 HOURS

Make the recipe up to the

MAKE
AHEAD end of step 1 up to 2 days
ahead, drain off the cooking
liquid, cover and chill separately.
Bring to room temperature, then
complete the recipe to serve. Or
follow the freezing instructions.
FOOD Instead of grilling the ribs
TEAM’S in step 2, you could finish
TIP
them off on a hot barbecue.

• 1 tbsp paprika
• 1 tbsp brown sugar
• ½ tbsp garlic powder
• ½ tbsp onion powder
• ½ tbsp salt
• ¼ tbsp ground black pepper
• 4 racks (about 1kg) free-range
baby back pork ribs
• 100ml apple juice, plus an extra
splash (optional)
• Lime wedges for
squeezing

1 Heat the oven to 140°C/120°C fan/

gas 1. Mix the paprika, sugar, garlic
powder, onion powder, salt and
pepper in a small bowl. Put the ribs
in a snug-fitting roasting tin, then
coat with the spice rub. Pour in
the apple juice, cover tightly with
a double layer of foil and cook in
the oven for 3 hours. Check after
1½ hours, adding another splash
of apple juice if the ribs look dry
(see Make Ahead).
2 After 3 hours, remove the foil and
drain the cooking juices into a
saucepan. Heat the grill to high, HOW TO FREEZE THE RIBS
then grill the ribs for 4-5 minutes with the sauce. Serve with lime After step 1, cool the racks, then cut into individual
until they brown (see tip). Bring the wedges for squeezing. ribs and wrap well. Put the cooking liquid in a
cooking juices to the boil, then PER SERVING 487kcals, 34.3g fat (12g separate bag, then freeze both for up to 3 months.
bubble for 4-5 minutes until syrupy. saturated), 40.4g protein, 3.5g carbs Defrost in the fridge before finishing the recipe.
3 Put the ribs on a board and brush (3.2g sugars), 0.3g salt, 1.2g fibre

90 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

Use half a batch to makeÉ
Chinese-style
sticky pork ribs
SERVES 2. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN
• ½ quantity slow-cooked pork ribs
• 3 tbsp hoisin sauce
• 1 tbsp soy sauce
• 1½ tsp honey
• 2 tsp cider vinegar
• ¾ tsp chinese five spice powder
• Vegetable oil for frying
• 2 spring onions, finely chopped
• 1 chilli, finely sliced
• 2 garlic cloves, finely sliced
• Cooked rice and steamed pak choi
to serve (optional)
FOOD STYLING: OLIVIA SPURRELL, JEN BEDLOE. STYLING: OLIVIA WARDLE, WEI TANG
RECIPES: OLIVIA SPURRELL. PHOTOGRAPHS: TOBY SCOTT, TARA FISHER.
1 Heat the grill to medium. Cut the
racks into individual ribs and set on
a baking tray lined with non-stick
baking paper. Mix the hoisin, soy,
honey, cider vinegar and five spice
in a small pan. Bring to the boil over
a medium-high heat, then bubble
for 3-4 minutes until thickened.
Brush the sauce generously all
over the ribs, then grill for 3-4
minutes, turning halfway through,
until sticky and caramelised.
2 Heat a generous glug of vegetable
oil in a frying pan. Add the spring
onions, chilli and garlic, then
stir-fry for 4-5 minutes until just
make it every day.
starting to turn golden and crisp –
be careful not to let the garlic burn.
Use a slotted spoon to scoop out
the ingredients onto a plate lined
with kitchen paper to drain.
3 Divide the ribs between
2 serving plates, then sprinkle
over the chilli and garlic
mixture. Serve with cooked
white rice and steamed
pak choi, if you like.
PER SERVING
654kcals, 45.7g fat (12.7g
saturated), 41.4g protein,
18.3g carbs (12.6g sugars),
2g salt, 2g fibre
make it every day.

THE BUDGET RECIPE

This crowdpleaser of a dish proves you don’t
need a basketful of expensive ingredients
or a complicated recipe to eat well

Sweet potato nachos

SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN,
OVEN TIME 30 MIN FEED FOUR
FOR £5.16
• 750g sweet potatoes, sliced
into 5mm rounds
• 1 tbsp olive oil
• 1 red onion, finely sliced
• 2 tbsp red wine vinegar
• 400g tin black beans,
drained and rinsed
• 200g ready-made tomato salsa
• 75g tortilla chips
• 100g grated vegetarian cheddar
• 1 large ripe avocado, chopped
• Finely grated zest and juice 1 lime
• Handful fresh coriander

1 Heat the oven to 220°C/200°C fan/

gas 7. Toss the sweet potatoes in the
oil on a roasting tray, season with
salt and a grinding of black pepper,
then bake for 30 minutes until
caramelised and tender.
2 Meanwhile, mix the red onion
with the vinegar and a pinch of salt
in a glass or ceramic bowl. Set

RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: OLIVIA SPURRELL. PHOTOGRAPH: MAJA SMEND. STYLING: MORAG FARQUHAR
aside to quick-pickle for 25 minutes.
3 Heat the grill to high. Top the
sweet potatoes with the black
beans and tomato salsa. Crush
the tortilla chips in a bowl and
mix with the grated cheese, then
sprinkle over the potatoes. Grill
for 6-8 minutes until everything
looks golden and bubbling.
4 Toss the chopped avocado with
the lime zest and juice, then
scatter over the nachos with the
fresh coriander and pickled red
onion. Serve straightaway.
PER SERVING 643kcals, 27.4g fat
(8.7g saturated), 18.6g protein,
71.9g carbs (14.2g sugars),
1.5g salt, 13.3g fibre

92 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 make it every day.

THE 5:2 RECIPE

Our carb-light take on noodles is an easy weeknight win
Chilli tofu veg pan and cook, tossing, for another
‘noodles’ 2-3 minutes. Stir in the sesame oil,
SERVES 2. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN lime zest and juice, then divide
between two plates. Serve sprinkled
• 10 sprays olive oil with the coriander, remaining sliced
• 200g firm tofu, cut into cubes chilli and spring onions.
• 1 garlic clove, crushed PER SERVING 242kcals, 13.2g fat
• Thumb-size piece (2.2g saturated), 17.2g protein,
fresh ginger, grated 11.1g carbs (7.1g sugars), 0.2g salt,
• 1 fresh red chilli, finely sliced 6.8g fibre
• 2 spring onions, finely sliced
• 2 courgettes (320g), finely
sliced into ‘noodles’ with a
julienne peeler or spiraliser
• 1 carrot (160g), finely sliced JUST
into ‘noodles’ with a julienne
peeler or spiraliser
242 CALORIES
• 2 tsp sesame oil
PER SERVING
• Finely grated zest
and juice 1 lime
• Fresh coriander to serve

1 Heat the spray oil in a non-

stick frying pan. Add the tofu
and cook for 4-5 minutes,
turning regularly, until
golden. Add the garlic,
ginger and half the chilli
and spring onions, then
cook for 2-3 minutes.
2 Add the courgette and
RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: OLIVIA SPURRELL. PHOTOGRAPH: TOBY SCOTT. STYLING: OLIVIA WARDLE

carrot ‘noodles’ to the

ON NON-FASTING DAYS...
By nutritionist Amanda Ursell
Try serving with noodles such
as Mama Instant Whole Grain
Rice Vermicelli, using half the
225g pack between two people.
This adds a useful 3.7g fibre
and 4.9g protein, which, along
with the bulk the noodles give
to the meal, helps it feel even
more filling. Rice noodles are
low in fat and salt and give you
40g carbs per portion.
Amanda is the nutrition editor of our
sister magazine Healthy Food Guide.

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 93
TAKE A PACK OFÉ SPEEDY

CORN ON
SUPPER
IDEA

THE COB
Juicy sweetcorn, straight from the cob,
is a summer classic. Try these new ideas

Cornbread with Mexican-style salad

SERVES 6 AS A SIDE. HANDS-ON TIME 10 MIN, OVEN TIME 20 MIN

Heat the oven to 220°C/200°C fan/gas 7. Brush the inside

of a 23cm ovenproof frying pan with a little melted butter.
In a bowl, combine 120g fine cornmeal, 120g self-raising
flour, 1½ tsp caster sugar and ½ tsp salt. Mix 275g natural
yogurt, 1 medium free-range egg, 90g melted butter
and 50g crumbled lancashire cheese in a measuring
jug. Pour the wet mixture into the dry and stir to combine.
W H AT
Run a sharp knife down the side of 2 corn cobs to
remove the kernels (discard the cobs). Add three quarters
T O B U Y...
We used a pack
of the kernels to the batter, then pour into the pan. Bake of 2 fresh, husked
for 20 minutes. Meanwhile, toss the remaining corn on corn cobs
a baking tray with ½ tsp olive oil and roast for 10 minutes.
Toss together a large handful of watercress, 250g
halved cherry tomatoes, 25g crumbled lancashire and
the roast corn kernels. Scatter over the cornbread to serve.
PER SERVING 401kcals, 21.4g fat (12.3g saturated),
12.6g protein, 37.9g carbs (7g sugars), 1.2g salt, 2.8g fibre Creamy corn houmous with lamb
chops, tomatoes and baby leaves

RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING: SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH. PHOTOGRAPHS: MAJA SMEND. STYLING: VICTORIA ELDRIDGE
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN

Make the houmous up to 2 days ahead, cover

MAKE and chill. Reheat gently to serve. Use any
AHEAD
extra houmous as a dip for crisps or crudités.

HOUMOUS Heat the grill to medium. Put 8 British lamb chops

WITH A on a baking tray, drizzle with 1 tbsp olive oil, sprinkle
TWIST over 1½ tbsp ras el hanout spice mix and mix to coat the
chops well. Grill for 2 minutes on each side. Add 350g
cherry tomatoes on the vine to the baking tray and grill
for a further 3-4 minutes on each side. Set aside to rest.
Meanwhile, put 2 corn cobs in a pan of boiling water and
cook for 4 minutes. Drain, then slice the kernels from the
cobs (discard the cobs). Put most in a food processor with
5 tbsp olive oil, a 400g tin of chickpeas, drained and rinsed,
1 small garlic clove, 3 tbsp tahini and the grated zest and
juice of ½ lemon. Whizz until almost smooth, then season.
Spoon the corn houmous evenly onto 4 plates, then top
each with 2 lamb chops and some grilled tomatoes. Serve
sprinkled with the remaining corn and baby leaf salad.
PER SERVING 586kcals, 38.3g fat (8.9g saturated), 40g
protein, 16.8g carbs (4.4g sugars), 0.3g salt, 7g fibre
 make it every day.

Korean-style sweetcorn salad

SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN
FRESH,
SWEET AND
Heat a griddle pan over a medium-high heat. Brush
SPICY
2 corn cobs with 1 tsp vegetable oil and griddle for
about 15 minutes, turning, until evenly charred. Brush
each cob with ¼ tbsp gochujang (Korean chilli paste),
then cook for another minute or so until the paste
just starts to colour. Remove from the griddle, then
slice the kernels from the cobs (discard the cobs).
Soak a large handful beansprouts in a bowl of
cold water for 10 minutes.
Combine 1½ tbsp gochujang with the juice from
a 440g packet of prepared watermelon wedges
(reserve the wedges), 1 tbsp toasted sesame oil
and 2-3 tbsp water. Season to taste. In a large bowl,
toss ½ head shredded chinese cabbage, a large
handful each of fresh mint and coriander, 2 shredded
cooked chicken breasts, the charred corn and the
watermelon wedges. Serve on a platter sprinkled with
50g toasted salted peanuts, with the dressing.
PER SERVING 323kcals, 14.3g fat (2.6g saturated), 29.5g
protein, 17.3g carbs (10.8g sugars), 0.6g salt, 3.4g fibre

GREAT
CHOICE FOR
A PICNIC

Street food-style corn

SERVES 2-4 AS A STARTER OR SIDE. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN

Heat a griddle pan over a medium-high heat. Cut

2 corn cobs in half, then brush 1 tbsp olive oil over
the four cob halves. Griddle for 15 minutes, turning
every few minutes, until evenly charred all over.
While the corn is on the griddle, brush with a
knob of softened butter and 2 tbsp soured cream.
Sprinkle over 2 tbsp grated emmental cheese (if
you’re vegetarian, check the label to ensure it’s
suitable) and 2 tbsp crumbled hard goat’s cheese,
then allow to melt slightly.
Transfer to a board or plate and sprinkle with a
pinch of chilli flakes and a small handful of fresh
coriander. Squeeze over the juice of 1 lime to serve.
PER SERVING (FOR 4) 145kcals, 11.5g fat (5.6g
saturated), 5.7g protein, 4.3g carbs (1.4g sugars),
0.2g salt, 1g fibre

NEXT MONTH Take a pack of grana padano cheese

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 95
 THE SANE VIEW

The controversial
ingredient that’s
technically illegal
The world is awash with CBD, a compound in cannabis plants called cannabidiol. It’s finding
its way into a smorgasbord of food and drink, from coffee, bottled water and alcohol to
energy bars, chocolate and pastries. But can these products deliver any of the claimed health
benefits – and does CBD need proper regulation? Sue Quinn leafs through the evidence

C
annabis itself is arguably
the world’s oldest medicine,
cultivated for thousands
of years for therapeutic purposes
and even administered to Queen
Victoria to relieve her period pain.
But interest in the cannabis
compound CBD has surged in the
past couple of years after it was
including (but not confined to)
insomnia, sleepiness, migraines,
acne, ADHD, cancer, diabetes,
depression, cardiovascular disease,
epilepsy, joint pain and mental
health problems. Food and drinks
manufacturers have seized on the
claims with the result that an
ever-growing array of products
concentrated in the flowers and
leaves of cannabis plants. Doctors
and scientists generally agree, and
it’s stated on the NHS website that
CBD has ‘medical benefits’. In the
UK, however, CBD can only legally
be sold if it contains 0.2 per cent or
less of the psychoactive compound
THC (tetrahydrocannabinol), which
ILLUSTRATION: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES

found to be an effective treatment
for Dravet syndrome, a severe
form of epilepsy in children.
Since then, amateur ‘wellness’
experts – who often sell CBD
products on their websites – have
claimed the compound is a cure for
an extraordinary array of conditions
are now infused with CBD and
available on the high street,
including chocolate, water and
even gummy bears.
WHAT IS CBD?
It’s just one of 120 known
cannabinoid compounds found
means it cannot make you ‘high’.
Over-the-counter CBD products
are generally extracted from hemp,
a variety of cannabis that contains
negligible amounts of THC. Two
medicines containing high doses
of CBD are now approved for
conditions including epilepsy and

96 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

multiple sclerosis, and to treat the
side-effects of cancer treatment.
However, researchers are still
investigating the benefits and
limitations of CBD on human
health, along with any potential
risks of long-term use and the
most effective way of taking it.
WHERE’S THE EVIDENCE?
The most robust scientific evidence
of CBD’s therapeutic benefits relates
to the treatment of anxiety, epilepsy
and schizophrenia, according to
Dr Franjo Grotenhermen, executive
director of the International
Association for Cannabinoid
Medicines (IACM). Other studies
suggest it might also be useful for
depression, insomnia and post-
traumatic stress disorder. But Dr
Grotenhermen doubts the amount
of CBD in food and drink products
is enough to deliver any benefit.
“Food and drink tend to contain
very low doses of CBD and you
can’t expect relevant psychological
or physical effects,” he says.
Treatment for schizophrenia, for
example, involves doses of up to
800mg, while 50mg doses have
been shown to be effective for
anxiety. “In CBD-infused food or
drink there are usually only a few
milligrams,” Dr Grotenhermen
says. “If people buy products
with only minimal amounts
of CBD, it’s a waste of money.”
A UNIQUE SITUATION
The problem is, it’s impossible for
consumers to know how much CBD
a food or drink contains, or even
whether the extracts are suitable
for use in those products. That’s
partly because regulators have
been caught unawares by the
surge in popularity of CBD.
The Food Standards Agency
(FSA) has confirmed to delicious.
that many CBD extracts available
in the UK, including those used in
food and drink, are technically
being sold illegally. This unique
situation has arisen because
manufacturers had, in effect, been
using a loophole in the law and
selling CBD as a hemp product.
(Industrial hemp is grown under
license in the UK for things like
building materials, clothing and
cooking oil.)
To clarify the situation, the FSA
classified CBD as a novel food in
January 2019, which means the
extracts must now be authorised
before going on sale. “As part of
this process the authorisation will
specify what type of products it can
be used in,” an FSA spokesperson
said. “For example, if a business
wants to use CBD in cakes, they
will need to use an extract that’s
been previously approved for use
in baked goods.”
The FSA is now working across
various industries to ensure the
products comply with the law.
The safety of CBD extracts will be
assessed on a case-by-case basis as
part of the authorisation process,
and the FSA will also be carrying
out an extra risk assessment. “But
there is little evidence at present
At the moment,
consumers have no
idea what they’re
buying
to suggest any safety concerns,”
the spokesperson added.
It’s worth noting that in the US,
CBD is a prescription drug under
federal law and cannot legally be
sold in food or drink. But after
years of not enforcing the law,
authorities in New York City
and California have now ordered
restaurants and cafés to remove
CBD from lattes, smoothies,
muffins and other foods.
IS IT SAFE TO USE?
Roger Pertwee, Emeritus Professor
at the University of Aberdeen and
one of the world’s leading experts
on medicinal cannabis, believes
CBD has the potential to treat
a wide range of ailments. But he
wants to see further clinical trials
of treatments using the compounds,
and says over-the-counter CBD
your health.
CBD has some proven
therapeutic benefits
T TRUE T FALSE
Many health claims about CBD are
not supported by scientific evidence
T TRUE T FALSE
CBD-infused foods have proven
health benefits
T TRUE T FALSE
There’s probably not enough CBD
in food and drink products to have
any effect
T TRUE T FALSE
There’s no way of knowing how much
CBD a food or drink product contains
T TRUE T FALSE
products need to be regulated in
the same way as alcohol. “At the
moment, consumers have no idea
what they’re buying,” he says.
Shoppers need clear and accurate
information about the purity,
concentration and the best way
to take CBD products. Until that
happens, is CBD-infused food
and drink safe? Professor Pertwee
says ingesting CBD in high
doses can impair liver function
and interfere with certain other
medications, which is why some
cannabis-based medicines are
taken as mouth sprays.
Taking too much CBD can,
in some cases, lead to severe
sleepiness (somnolence), as well
as vomiting and diarrhoea.
“But as far as we know, at the
moment cannabidiol (CBD) is
a relatively safe drug and there
are very few known side effects,”
says Professor Pertwee.
THE BOTTOM LINE
CBD is believed to have medical
benefits and research is rapidly
increasing, but many of the claimed
therapeutic effects are not yet
supported by clinical evidence.
Food and drink infused with
the compound probably contain
insufficient amounts to have
the lauded beneficial effects.
 THE SUNSHINE
COLLECTION
Simplicity and quality of ingredients are hallmarks of the Greek kitchen. Taste is key,
but colour and texture also play their part in creating a balanced dish. Give these fuss-
free recipes from Heather Thomas’s new book a try and find out why simple is often best

Roasted vegetable
and chickpea
quinoa salad

PHOTOGRAPHS
HAARALA HAMILTON
 vegetarian.

Fried halloumi fingers

and fried feta saganaki
EACH MEZE SERVES 4-6. HANDS-ON TIME 40 MIN

FOR THE FRIED HALLOUMI FINGERS

• 4 tbsp plain flour
• 2 tbsp za’atar spice mix
• Pinch garlic powder
• 350g halloumi
• Olive oil for shallow frying
• 1 tsp sumac
• Handful fresh coriander, chopped
• 1 tbsp pomegranate molasses
• Hot sauce such as sriracha or harissa
• 250g thick greek yogurt

FOR THE FRIED FETA SAGANAKI

• 2 x 200g packs vegetarian feta
• 2 medium free-range eggs, beaten
• 100g plain flour
• Olive oil for shallow-frying
• 3 tbsp honey (Greek thyme honey ideally)
• 6 small peaches or ripe figs, halved/sliced
• Lemon wedges to serve

1 To make the fried halloumi, mix the flour,

za’atar and garlic powder in a shallow bowl
or on a plate. Cut the halloumi into 12 fat
fingers, then toss in the flour mixture.
Fried halloumi
2 Heat enough oil to cover the base of a fingers (right) and
large frying pan over a medium-high heat. fried feta saganaki
Working in batches, fry the halloumi fingers
for 1-2 minutes on each side or until crisp
and golden. Remove with a slotted spoon and
drain on kitchen paper. Dust with the sumac.
3 Transfer the halloumi to a shallow serving
bowl, sprinkle with coriander and drizzle
with the pomegranate molasses. In a
separate small bowl, swirl a spoonful of hot
sauce through the yogurt. Serve immediately.
4 To make the feta saganaki, cut each block
of feta in half to make 2 even pieces about
2cm thick (4 in total). Dip them into the
beaten egg, then coat entirely with flour.
5 Heat the oil in a frying pan until very hot.
Fry the feta in batches, 2 pieces at a time,
for 2 minutes on each side until golden Halloumi can be fried
brown. Remove and drain on kitchen paper. without melting and losing
6 Serve immediately, drizzled with honey, its shape. Don’t worry if any
with the peaches/figs on the side and some brine comes out – it will soon
lemon wedges for squeezing. evaporate, leaving crisp,
HALLOUMI FINGERS (FOR 6) 317cals, 19.9g tender fingers. And nothing
fat (10.7g saturated), 16.1g protein, 17.3g could be simpler than fried
carbs (2.3g sugars), 1.5g salt, 2g fibre salty feta straight out of the
FETA SAGANAKI (FOR 6) 296kcals, 19.2g fat pan. An aromatic honey goes
(10.3g saturated), 14.1g protein, 16.1g carbs well with the feta, as does
(11g sugars), 1.7g salt, 1.3g fibre → any seasonal fruit.

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 99
 These recipes
• 2 red or yellow peppers, Greek courgette
deseeded and cut into chunks and feta frittata
celebrate Greek • 1 red onion, cut into small wedges SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN
vegetarian cookery • 2 large beetroot, peeled
its simplicity, and cut into small wedges Wrap leftover slices of
MAKE
purity and diversity • 4 garlic cloves, unpeeled AHEAD frittata in baking paper, then
of flavours; its • 4 tbsp olive oil keep in an airtight container
nutritional and • 200g quinoa in the fridge for up to 2 days.
• 480ml vegetable stock (check Use soft goat’s cheese
health benefits; NEXT
it’s vegan and gluten free) TIME instead of feta. Swap the
and, most
• 400g tin chickpeas, dill with parsley, oregano
important of all, its authenticity and drained and rinsed or Greek basil. Add some spring
honesty. I hope these dishes convey • 1 ripe avocado, stoned, onions in step 2.
this unpretentious approach to food peeled and sliced
and the happiness produced by even • 3 tbsp olive oil
the humblest of ingredients. FOR THE CITRUS DRESSING • 3 medium courgettes,
HEATHER THOMAS • Juice 1 lemon thinly sliced into rounds
• 2 tsp sumac • 2 garlic cloves, crushed
• Pinch caster sugar • 4 ripe tomatoes (about 400g),
HEATHER’S STORY • A few fresh coriander or flatleaf chopped
She divides her parsley sprigs, chopped • 8 medium free-range eggs
time between • Handful fresh dill, finely chopped
Athens, Mykonos 1 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/ • 100g vegetarian feta, crumbled
and London, and
is a food writer gas 6. Put the peppers, onion and
specialising in beetroot in a roasting tin, tuck the YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
Greek cooking garlic cloves in between, then • About 26cm ovenproof frying pan
– particularly
drizzle with the olive oil to coat
healthy, meat-
free recipes. everything. Roast for 25-30 minutes 1 Heat the grill to medium. Heat
She contributes or until tender. Squeeze the garlic 2 tbsp olive oil in the frying pan over
to health and cloves out of their skins and mix a medium heat. Add the courgettes
food magazines
in the UK and Roasted vegetable the flesh into the vegetables to the hot pan and cook, turning
the US and and chickpea quinoa (discard the skins). occasionally, for 4-5 minutes until
has written salad 2 Meanwhile, rinse the quinoa under tender and lightly golden. Stir in
numerous SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN, cold running water and drain in a the garlic and chopped tomatoes
cookery books.
SIMMERING TIME 15 MIN, sieve. Bring the stock to the boil in and cook for 2-3 minutes.
OVEN TIME 30 MIN a saucepan, add the quinoa and 2 In a large bowl, beat the eggs
reduce the heat to a simmer. Cover and season with salt and pepper.
Quinoa is becoming more and cook for 15 minutes until the Add the dill and the courgette
popular in Greece and now quinoa is tender and has absorbed and tomato mixture and stir well.
appears on many restaurant most of the stock. When cooked, 3 Add the remaining olive oil to the
and café menus, especially in the sprout or ‘tail’ will pop out of frying pan and, when hot, pour in
Athens and the Aegean islands. each quinoa seed. Remove from the the courgette and egg mixture,
High in protein and fibre, easily heat and leave for 5 minutes before then crumble the feta over the top.
digestible and gluten-free, it straining off any excess stock. Reduce the heat to low and cook
has a mild nutty flavour and Fluff up the quinoa with a fork. gently for 8-10 minutes or until the
is very versatile. Depending on 3 Mix together the quinoa, roasted frittata is set and golden underneath
the season, you can swap any vegetables (reserving the oil left and only the top is still runny.
roasted vegetables into this in the roasting tin), chickpeas 4 Put the pan under the grill for
dish, such as aubergines, and avocado in a serving bowl. about 2 minutes or until the top
courgettes, squash, pumpkin, 4 Whisk the dressing ingredients is puffy, golden brown and set.
carrots or tomatoes. with the reserved oil from the 5 Slide the frittata out of the pan
roasting tin and gently toss onto a board and cut into wedges.
Serve the salad with with the salad. Serve warm. Serve warm or cold.
NEXT
TIME harissa or another hot PER SERVING 445kcals, 19.9g fat PER SERVING 331kcals, 24.7g fat
sauce on the side. And (3.1g saturated), 14.4g protein, (7.8g saturated), 21.3g protein,
stir in some baby leaf spinach 45.3g carbs (11.7g sugars), 4.8g carbs (4.5g sugars),
or peppery wild rocket in step 3. 0.2g salt, 13.5g fibre 1.1g salt, 2.1g fibre →

100 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 vegetarian.

This recipe shows how quintessentially Greek ingredients – olive oil, courgettes,
tomatoes and feta – work amazingly well in classic dishes from other Mediterranean cultures.
Inexpensive and simple to make, a healthy frittata makes a delicious light summer meal.
You can even enjoy it cold for a picnic or packed lunch.

Greek courgette
and feta frittata
vegetarian.

Green french toast

with honey drizzle
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 20-25 MIN

This french toast is attractively

flecked with green herbs and spring
onions for an aromatic savoury
flavour. The honey adds sweetness
and is more subtle than the usual
maple syrup.

Add some chopped basil,

NEXT thyme or mint. Serve with
TIME
griddled tomatoes on the vine.

• 4 medium free-range eggs

• 90ml whole milk
• Handful each fresh flatleaf parsley
and dill, finely chopped
• 4 spring onions, finely chopped
• 4 medium slices Greek sesame bread
or crusty white bread
• 1 tbsp olive oil
• Ground cinnamon for dusting
• Honey for drizzling (Greek thyme
honey if you can)
• Greek yogurt to serve

1 Beat together the eggs and milk

in a shallow bowl. Stir in the chopped
herbs and spring onions. Season
lightly with salt and pepper.
2 Soak one or two slices of bread
(depending on the size of your pan)
in the beaten egg mixture for 2-3
minutes, turning the bread over to
cover both sides. Don’t leave it too long
or it will get soggy and fall apart.
3 Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in
a large non-stick frying pan over a
low-medium heat. When hot, add the
soaked bread, 1-2 slices at a time, and
cook for 2-3 minutes until crisp and
golden brown underneath. Turn over
and cook for another 2-3 minutes on
the other side. Keep warm while you
cook the remaining bread.
BUY THE
4 Serve the toast lightly dusted with
BOOK
These recipes are cinnamon and drizzled with honey, with
from The Greek a large spoonful of yogurt alongside.
Vegetarian PER SERVING 268kcals, 10.1g fat (2.4g
Cookbook by
Heather Thomas saturated), 12.6g protein, 30.7g carbs
(Phaidon £24.95). (13.9g sugars), 0.7g salt, 2.1g fibre
To save 20 per
cent, enter the
code GVC20 when NEXT MONTH
ordering at Gennaro Contaldo’s glorious
phaidon.com veggie pasta dishes

102 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

PLANT-BASED RECIPE
Satisfyingly creamy-fruity ice lollies: when things get hot, this is the way to chill
Piña colada
yogurt pops
MAKES 8. HANDS-ON TIME 10 MIN, PLUS
AT LEAST 6 HOURS 20 MINUTES FREEZING
Keep the yogurt pops in the
MAKE freezer in their moulds for
AHEAD
up to 2 weeks.
• 300g chopped fresh pineapple
• 2 tbsp icing sugar
• 1 tbsp lime juice
RECIPE: CATHIE LONNIE. PHOTOGRAPH: NIGEL LOUGH AND GUY BAILEY
• 500g dairy-free coconut yogurt
YOU’LL ALSO NEED...
Food processor or blender;
8 x 80ml ice lolly moulds;
8 lolly sticks
1 Whizz the pineapple, icing sugar
and lime juice in a food processor
or blender until smooth.
2 Divide half the pineapple mixture
evenly among the moulds. Top with
make it every day.
half the coconut yogurt. Layer with
the remaining pineapple mixture VEGAN
and yogurt. Freeze for 20 minutes
or until starting to firm up. Insert
SUMMER
the lolly sticks, then freeze for COOLER
6 hours or until frozen solid.
3 To serve, briefly dip the moulds in
hot water to loosen the lollies, then
remove from the mould and enjoy.
PER LOLLY 64kcals, 2g fat (0.7g
saturated), 2.6g protein, 8.8g carbs
(8.6g sugars), 0.2g salt, 0.6g fibre
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 103
leftovers.
LOOSE ENDS
Don’t let this month’s special ingredients linger in your kitchen.
Instead, make the most of them with these smart and easy ideas
BLACK VENUS RICE
PUFFED
FROM
BLACK RICE
BLACK RICE
PAELLA WITH Heat 3cm
ARTICHOKES
P30 sunflower oil
in a medium
saucepan until it reaches about
180°C (use a digital probe
thermometer or test the oil by
dropping a few grains of rice
in to see if they sizzle and rise
to the top). Carefully add a
handful of black rice and fry
for 20-30 seconds until puffed
and crisp. Remove with a
slotted spoon and drain on
kitchen paper. Serve sprinkled
over salads or in granola.
BLACK RICE PUDDING
Search ‘cardamom, coconut
and lime rice pudding’ at
deliciousmagazine.co.uk and
substitute the pudding rice for
black rice, having first rinsed
and soaked the black rice for
30 minutes. You may need to
cook the rice pudding for 5-10
minutes longer, adding an
extra splash of milk along
the way if it’s looking too dry.
Serve with fresh mango and
extra lime zest.
BLACK RICE POKE
Create your own Hawaiian poke
bowl, substituting cooked
black rice for sticky rice to
104 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
provide extra fibre and
antioxidants. Top with raw fish,
seaweed and fresh vegetables.
For inspiration, check out the
‘salmon poke bowl’ at
deliciousmagazine.co.uk
SUMAC
TWIST ON
FROM
HARISSA & AVO TOAST
ORANGE
SPATCHCOCKED In a small bowl,
CHICKEN
P52 mash 2 ripe
avocados until
smooth. Stir in 2 tbsp olive oil,
the zest and juice of ½ lemon,
a large pinch of chilli flakes and
1 tsp sumac. Spread on toast
and top with poached eggs and
an extra sprinkle of sumac.
SPICY COUSCOUS
Fry 1 chopped onion, 1 chopped
pepper and ½ chopped
courgette in olive oil until soft.
Add ½ tsp each ground cumin,
coriander and cinnamon.
Remove from the heat and stir
in 1 tsp sumac. Mix into cooked
couscous with a handful of
chopped fresh herbs such as
parsley and mint. Season well.
Serve with barbecued meats.
SUMAC DRESSING
Whisk together 3 tbsp extra-
virgin olive oil, the zest and
juice of ½ lemon, 1 tbsp honey
and ½ tbsp each sumac and
za’atar spice mix. Season. light brown sugar to the hot
Toss with tabbouleh or drizzle pan, then heat until the sugar
over grilled chicken or fish. dissolves and starts to bubble.
Return the pecans to the pan,
BLACK OLIVE stir to coat, then turn out onto
TAPENADE a sheet of non-stick baking
TUNA PASTA paper to cool. Enjoy as a snack.
FROM
SAUSAGE, WITH A TWIST CRUNCHY COOKIES
LENTIL AND
GOAT’S CHEESE Search ‘crunchy- Search ‘chocolate chip cookies’
SALAD
P87 melty tuna and at deliciousmagazine.co.uk.
broccoli pasta Replace half the chocolate chips
bake’ at deliciousmagazine. with chopped toasted pecans.
co.uk. For a tangy twist, add
1-2 tbsp olive tapenade to the POLENTA
sauce before baking. LEMON
FROM
TAPENADE FOCACCIA ROAST POLENTA
TOMATOES AND
Top slices of toasted focaccia AUBERGINES BISCUITS
WITH WET
with black olive tapenade and POLENTA Beat 100g
P42
roasted red onions. Drizzle unsalted butter
with olive oil, sprinkle with sea with 75g caster sugar and the
WORDS: DANIELLE KEEN AND OLIVIA SPURRELL. ILLUSTRATIONS: ALICE CLEARY
salt flakes and serve as a snack. zest of 1 lemon until pale and
TANGY HOUMOUS creamy. Beat in 2 egg yolks,
Stir 1-2 tbsp olive tapenade then stir in 150g plain flour and
into a bowl of houmous. Top 75g polenta. Bring together to
with crumbled feta and fresh form a dough, wrap in cling
parsley to serve. film and chill for 30 minutes,
then roll out and cut biscuit
PECANS shapes. Bake at 200°C/180°C
CARAMELISED fan/gas 6 for 10-12 minutes
FROM
PECAN NUTS until lightly golden.
MARSHMALLOW
POPCORN
Toast 50g pecans CRUNCHY CRUST
BITES
P60
in a frying pan Dip fish fillets or chicken
over a medium breasts in polenta and fry in
heat. Once they start to brown, olive oil until golden. Season
transfer to a bowl. Add ½ tbsp well and serve alongside
runny honey and 1 tbsp soft roasted vegetables.
 BE A BE T TER COOK

BE A BE T TER COOK
8 PA G E S O F T I P S A N D K N OW - H OW T O G ET YO U C O O K I N G
S M A R T E R , FA ST E R A N D W I T H G R E AT E R C O N F I D E N C E

M E ET
OUR
EXPERTS
STEPS TO SUCCESS p111

AUGUS T 2019
Chef David Gingell gets
hands-on with a summery
apricot and almond tart

JEN
BEDLOE
Food
editor

→
SOPHIE delicious.
AUSTEN-SMITH KITCHEN p108
Deputy
food editor Our expert guide
to preparing squid

OLIVIA
SPURRELL
Cookery
assistant → THE INSIDE
TRACK p109
Why a pizza oven
is worth the dough
– plus pro tips for
perfect results
LUCAS
HOLLWEG
Chef and
food writer

THANE
PRINCE
Food writer,
cook and
queen of
preserving

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 105
THIS MONTH IN THE delicious. KITCHEN...
When the delicious. team test recipes, we often debate the best new ways to do things as well
as answering questions that arise in the test kitchen. Can you make your own nut flour? Is there
one definitive, better-than-the-rest egg poaching method? Can a cracked tart case be fixed?
What are the best methods for barbecuing different cuts of meat? It’s the kind of information
that you won’t find anywhere else and it can help take your skills and knowledge to the next level
USE U P A GLUT OF…
BLACKCURRANTS
BY THANE PRINCE
Blackcurrants make
a gorgeous summer
curd. My method
avoids the need to
strip the berries
from their stalks.
Wash 500g blackcurrants and cook
in a pan (in just the water that clings
to the berries) until soft. Push them
through a fine sieve, then whizz in
a food processor with 250g caster
sugar, 5 large free-range eggs and
125g salted butter until combined.
Tip the mixture into a heavy-based
pan set over a very low heat, stirring
constantly with a wooden spoon.
Cook until the butter has melted
and the sugar is dissolved (about
5 minutes). Turn the heat up to
medium and, using a wooden spoon,
stir over the heat in a zig zag pattern
until the curd is thick enough to coat
the back of the spoon – remember it
will thicken more when it cools.
Take the pan off the heat and pot the
curd in hot sterilised jars. Screw on
the lids straightaway,
then leave to cool
before storing/eating.
SEASONAL
STAR
106 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
PAELLA ETIQUETTE
Served straight from the pan it’s cooked
in, paella (see p28) is perfect summer
sharing food. But in Spain there are
strict rules regarding how to eat it
• The Spanish only eat paella at
lunchtime. In Valencia, this dish is what
roast beef is to Sunday lunch in the UK.
• Do things the traditional way and put
the paella in the middle of the table for
people to help themselves. Think of it
like a big pizza, where everyone takes
the wedge in front of them. Make sure
everyone has their fair share of meat,
fish and vegetables – and don’t let people
steal from someone else’s wedge!
• Don’t hog the crusty layer on the
bottom of the pan. Known as socarrat,
it’s formed when the rice and juices
What’s the deal with... ibérico pork steaks?
Ibérico pork (also known as pata negra
because of its black feet) comes from
a breed of pig native to southern Spain,
which is most famously used to make
top-quality ham (jamón ibérico). The best
meat comes from pigs who forage for
acorns in oak forests (and is labelled
ibérico de bellota). Dark and high in
oleic acid, the meat is nutty, sweet and
buttery. Fat is marbled throughout,
keeping everything moist.
When ibérico pork comes
from a trusted
supplier, chefs
may cook it
medium or even
medium rare
– not something normally
FOOD
TRIVIA
caramelise and is widely considered the
best bit. Everyone should get a go at it.
• You can squeeze a lemon wedge onto
your wedge of paella if you want to –
though traditionalists would tut, believing
a properly seasoned paella shouldn’t
need it. Adding a blob of aioli is frowned
upon, too – and never add lemon to your
PHOTOGRAPHS: BENJAMIN MCMAHON, EULANDA SHEAD, MAJA SMEND, SASKIA VAN OSNABRUGGE, ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES
neighbour’s wedge without asking first.
recommended for pork. The
following cuts cook quickly on
a hot griddle pan or barbecue:
BUTCHER’S
PLUMA A tender, wing-shaped CUTS
cut from behind the neck, it has
a generous coating of fat that gives
it flavour and succulence.
PRESA An oval-shaped steak cut from
the shoulder, it’s beautifully juicy.
SECRETO This ‘secret’ cut is taken from
hidden parts of the pig between
the shoulder and the
belly. It’s fatty but
flavoursome.
SOLOMILLO, or tenderloin,
may not have the
strongest flavour but
it’s the most tender cut.

BARBECUE MEAT LIKE A PRO
BY BUTCHER • Pork chops should
THE
CHARLIE CARROLL,
FOUNDER OF
be cooked quickly
over a high heat and SKILLS
THE FLAT IRON never overdone. Salt
RESTAURANT just before cooking or
GROUP (FLATIRON at least 30 minutes beforehand
STEAK.CO.UK) for a semi-brined effect.
Start by choosing the best meat • Spatchcocking, where the
you can find. Sustainably raised, backbone of a chicken is removed
higher-welfare meat from and the bird is flattened, removes
traditional breeds can be a game worry about uneven cooking or
changer in terms of flavour. And having enough depth on the grill
now to the cooking… to accommodate a whole bird.
• Grill over good-quality Grilling slowly over a low heat
sustainably grown and prepared and resting the chicken after
charcoal, lighting the barbie well cooking ensures moist, juicy
ahead and leaving it until the meat. See p52 for a recipe.
coals are entirely ‘ashed over’ • Rich, fatty cuts, such as beef
and glowing white – this will give short ribs and pork ribs, benefit
an even temperature and greater from a tangy marinade to cut
control over your grilling. through the fat and freshen
• If the weather is unreliable, the flavours.
start the cooking in the oven at a • Salt is not only a flavour
low temperature, adding a splash enhancer but also helps the other
of stock, wine, beer or juice. Once ingredients in the marinade to
the meat is tender, finish on the penetrate the meat, fish or veg
grill for that smoky flavour. for maximum flavour throughout.
• Generally, tender cuts of meat Only use a pinch, though – too
such as beef or pork fillet need much will draw moisture out of
faster cooking over a higher heat. the meat and risk making it dry.
Tougher cuts, such as brisket or • Adding oil to a marinade will
lamb joints, need slower cooking help prevent meat, fish or veg
over a low heat to help tenderise from sticking to the grill. Pick
them. Whatever meat you’re a flavoured oil, such as garlic
cooking, make sure you leave it to or chilli, to add another layer
rest before carving. of flavour.
COOK’S HOW TO FI X A CR ACK ED TA RT CA SE
TIP Keep any trimmings wrapped in cling film
in the fridge. If your tart case has a crack after the blind
baking phase, press a few trimmings into the crack,
then return to the oven for 5 minutes to patch it up.
Alternatively, mix 4 tbsp plain flour with 2 tbsp melted
butter to make a paste, then spread this mixture into
the cracks and bake for 5 minutes.
BE A BETTER COOK
BA K ING M A STERCL A SS
HOW TO MAKE AND USE
NUT FLOURS
Nut flours (finely ground nuts) are a great
way to vary the flavour and texture of your
baking. They not only add moisture thanks
to the natural oils they contain, but also
a richness of flavour that wheat flour alone
doesn’t provide. Ground almonds and
hazelnuts are easy enough to buy but
delicious. KITCHEN
they also aren’t hard to make yourself –
and if you’re after, say, ground pecans,
the DIY approach is your only option.
THE RAW INGREDIENTS For ground almonds,
it’s more common to start with blanched
(skinless) nuts, though some other nuts
are ground with their skins on, which gives
the flour a darker colour and more robust
flavour. The flavour can be intensified by
roasting the nuts before grinding.
THE PITFALL TO AVOID is processing the nuts
so vigorously that they turn into nut butter.
Heat is the enemy here: with almonds, in
particular, it helps to start with nuts that are
already flaked or sliced, reducing the time
needed to break them up. Try a spice grinder
to pulverise small batches quickly without the
oils separating and turning the nuts to paste.
IF YOU’RE USING A FOOD PROCESSOR, make sure
the nuts and bowl are at room temperature
and pulse just long enough to grind them.
The longer you process, the more likely it is
that the nuts will overheat and give up their
oil, turning to butter. If your recipe includes
flour and/or sugar, pulsing a little of it with
the nuts will help keep things powdery.
HOW TO USE NUT FLOURS IN BAKING Although there
are some classic cakes that use only ground
nuts and no wheat flour, it’s more usual for
there to be a combination of the two. If you
want to experiment with nut flours in
standard recipes, start by swapping a
quarter of the wheat flour in the original
for a similar weight of nut flour. →

1 2
4 5
USE IT U P
FINISH OFF THAT
BOTTLE OF LIMONCELLO
SYLLABUB Finely grate the zest and juice of
3 lemons, then mix the juice and ¾ of the
zest with 100ml limoncello. Whisk 450ml
double cream to soft peaks, then gradually
beat in the limoncello mixture. Divide among
6 glasses, scatter with the remaining zest,
then chill for a couple of hours.
SEMIFREDDO Beat together 3 tbsp lemon curd,
250ml mascarpone and 300ml vanilla
custard. Whisk in 4 tbsp limoncello. Layer
with raspberry coulis in a loaf tin lined with
cling film and swirl together. Freeze
overnight, then dip in hot water
before turning out.
GRANITA Boil 500ml water
with 125g caster sugar, then
simmer for about 5 minutes
until syrupy. Add a few fresh
mint leaves, then cool. Add
50ml lemon juice and 125ml
limoncello, then strain into
a shallow freezerproof
container. Freeze for a few
hours, stirring with a fork
every 30-60 minutes, to make
a light, frozen slush.
108 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
THE TECHNIQU E
How to prepare squid
If you’re making the paella on p29, here’s
how to get squid ready for the pan
1 Rinse the squid under cold running
water to clean, then pull the head away
from the body to remove the innards.
3 2 Pull out the clear, plasticky quill
from the centre of the body
3 Using a sharp knife, remove the ink sac (if
it’s still intact) from the innards. The ink can
be used to colour/flavour pastas and risottos.
4 Slice the tentacles off the innards
(discard the rest of the innards).
5 Carefully scrape and peel away the thin
purple outer membrane from the body
and discard. Slice the flaps off the body.
6 Wash the body and tentacles well
under cold running water, then slice
the body according to the recipe.
6
HOW TO POACH EGGS GET IT
1 Start with really fresh eggs (or see below) as they have more
viscous whites that wrap around the yolk during poaching,
creating the perfect poached egg shape.
RIGHT
2 When they’re super fresh, several eggs can be poached together.
Bring water to a simmer in
a wide saucepan or deep frying
pan, then turn down the heat
until the water isn’t moving.
3 Crack an egg into a cup, then
slide it into the water. Repeat
with the remaining eggs,
spacing them well apart. Leave
for 3 minutes, then carefully
remove with a slotted spoon.
4 Drain well and, if necessary,
blot with kitchen paper – you
don’t want soggy toast. If there
are spidery bits of white at the
edges, you can trim them off
with kitchen scissors if you like.
EGGS AREN’T SUPER FRESH?
Cook one at a time, swirling the water first to help the white wrap around the yolk.
TRY POACHED EGGS IN A SALADE LYONNAISE
Fry bacon lardons with a bashed garlic clove. Remove the bacon, then cook
croutons in the fat. Mix the bacon and croutons (discard the garlic) with salad
leaves (preferably frisée), a little finely chopped shallot and a punchy mustard
and garlic vinaigrette. Divide between plates and top each with a poached egg.
 FISH OF THE MONTH

BE A BETTER COOK
MON K FISH
BY CJ JACKSON, CEO OF THE SEAFOOD SCHOOL AT
BILLINGSGATE AND SEAFISH UK AMBASSADOR
Also known as angler fish, sea devil or goosefish,
monkfish is hugely versatile. It’s great for the
barbecue, stir-fries, roasting, deep-frying and
steaming, but it hasn’t always been so popular

A BIT OF HISTORY WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Before Fanny Cradock brought Monkfish is often sold skin-side
monkfish to the nation’s down to show off the lovely white

attention in the 1970s, it was
so disregarded that most would
end up in the ‘cat flap’ box in
fishmongers. Fanny revealed it
was being used in place of scampi
in fish and chip shops, causing
quite a stir. It’s now regarded as
a premium eating fish for its
sweet flavour and, when cooked
carefully, prawn-like texture.
APPEARANCE
The fish have a large, wide head
with sharp teeth and a huge,
gaping mouth. The dorsal fin has
a long ‘line and bait’ appendage
near the head that dangles as a
lure for other fish. A rich diet of
smaller fish makes monkfish
excellent to eat.
HOW TO BUY
Skin-on, head-of f monkfish
ou see
‘tails’ are what yo
most often in the
shops. At large fish
markets, the fish
are also sold
whole. The cheek ks are
often sold separa ately
– a great choice aas they
require little preparation
and there’s no wa aste.
Monkfish liver (annkimo)
is a delicacy, par ticularly
in Japan where it’s
served with sushi.
fillets and keep the flesh away
from the damaging ice. Look for
very white, almost translucent
flesh – the fish yellows as it ages
– and any visible blood should
be bright red.
The skin of the fish is a
smooth, mottled brown and
pulls away easily. Underneath
it is a series of membranes that
need to be removed, as they
darken and shrink around the
fish during cooking, making it
tough. The most effective way
to remove the membranes is
to first use your fingers, then
a sharp knife.
SUSTAINABILITY
In Iceland in January
Ja 2018,
angler/mo onkfish gained
Marine Stewardship
S use your fingertips at first to begin to flatten
Council (MSC)
certification, which
means fish from
these waters are a
sustainable option.
TREAAT IT RIGHT
Cook monkfish
m lightly
so the flesh is still
spongy to the touch
– if cookedd for too long, it
becomes toug gh. Try wrapping
fillets in stretched streaky bacon
or pancetta, then roasting them
on the barbie.
delicious. KITCHEN
PRO TIPS
Outdoor pizza
BY KRISTIAN TAPANINAHO,
FOUNDER OF OONI PIZZA OVENS
If you’re making the pizza
party recipes (p44) in an
outdoor pizza oven, here’s
what you need to know
• Invest in a pizza oven capable of reaching
500°C and make sure it’s at temperature before
you stretch the pizza dough. Use an infrared
thermometer (available from Amazon for
around £10) to check the temperature on
the baking stone before you put in the pizza.
• Respect your dough and you’ll reap the
rewards. Don’t overwork it when shaping and
the dough. Avoid pressing the edge (what will
be the crust) or you’ll ‘knock out’ the air.
• Less is more when it comes to toppings – pizza
ovens are hot and thin Neapolitan-style pizzas
will cook very quickly (in just 60 to 90 seconds).
• Use a well floured pizza peel to slide your
pizza into the oven with ease. After cooking
the pizza for 20 seconds or so, use the peel
to rotate the base a third of a turn, then
repeat until the pizza is cooked to perfection.
• Relax… Making pizzas should be fun – and
practice makes perfect.
For your chance to win an Ooni pizza oven,
see p51; uk.ooni.com

FIND MORE ONLINE NOW... From knife skills to tips for perfect pastry and fabulously See
good stocks, we’ve brought together our most frequently viewed and requested skills in one handy delicious.
expertise
collection to help you improve your cooking. There’s also a carefully chosen handful of basic recipes in action
that you’ll come to rely on, time and again. deliciousmagazine.co.uk/skills
 20%
off
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E
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edinburgh oxford
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 BE A BETTER COOK
CHEF’S STEP BY STEP

Apricot &
almond tart

CHEF’S STEP BY STEP

By David Gingell
This is a great recipe for high summer, when
apricots are at their ripe, flavourful best. It’s
fairly simple to make, and I really like the
sharpness of the apricots set against the
buttery frangipane. It’s perfect with
a dollop of crème fraîche on top.

PHOTOGRAPHS GARETH MORGANS

STYLING LUIS PERAL

DAVID’S CHEFFING JOURNEY

His passion for cooking began at
the age of 17, when he worked at
Michelin-starred Pennypots in
Cornwall. After moving to London
at 19, David worked with some of
the capital’s top chefs, including
Chris Galvin at Orrery and
Jeff Galvin at L’Escargot and
Bistrot de Luxe. David’s first
head chef role was with the three
Wright Brothers restaurants. In
2014, he teamed up with Jeremie
Cometto to open three acclaimed
restaurants in north London:
Primeur, Westerns Laundry
(2017) and bakery-restaurant
Jolene (2018). Their newest
restaurant, Fitzroy, opened in
Fowey, Cornwall, in June.

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 111
 A B
G H
Apricot and almond tart
SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, OVEN
TIME 65-70 MIN, PLUS 1½ HOURS CHILLING
The finished tart will keep
MAKE
AHEAD for up to 2 days in a cool
SUMMER CLASSIC place in an airtight container.
Buttery frangipane
The recipe makes enough
and tangy apricots FOOD
in perfect harmony TEAM’S pastry dough for 2 tarts.
TIP Wrap half in cling film and
freeze for up to 2 months.
FOR THE PASTRY (SEE TIP)
• 70g caster sugar
• 120g salted butter, softened
• 240g plain flour, plus extra
for dusting
• 1 medium free-range egg, beaten
FOR THE FILLING
• 110g salted butter, softened
• 110g caster sugar
• ½ vanilla pod, cut in half
and seeds scraped out, or
1 tbsp vanilla bean paste
• Generous grating fresh nutmeg
• Finely grated zest ½ orange
• 110g ground almonds
• 20g whole salted almonds,
roughly chopped
112 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
C
I
• 20g flaked almonds
• 1 tbsp plain flour
• 1 large free-range egg, beaten
• 2 tsp dark rum
• 5-6 apricots, halved or quartered
• 2 tbsp apricot jam
• 2 tsp apricot brandy
• Crème fraîche to serve
YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
• 20cm loose-bottomed fluted tart
tin; ceramic baking beans
1 For the pastry, put the sugar and
butter in a bowl and beat together
with a wooden spoon (cream) until
combined [A]. Sift over the flour and
gently mix until incorporated. Stir
in the egg [B], then lightly bring
together with your hands. Tip onto a
work surface [C], then lightly knead
a few times to make a smooth dough
[D]. Divide in half, wrap each piece
well in cling film, then leave to rest
in the fridge for 1 hour (see tip).
2 Gently knead one piece of pastry
to make it more pliable, then gently
shape into a ball and squash down
slightly on an unfloured surface.
Gently roll the pastry with a rolling

D E
J K
pin as quickly as possible,
repeatedly turning it about
45 degrees to keep the circle shape.
3 When you feel the pastry softening
slightly, add a little flour to the work
surface and the top of the pastry [E],
then keep rolling until you have a
rough circle about 6cm wider than
your tin and 3mm thick [F]. Trim the
edges a little to make an even circle
about 3-4cm wider than your tin.
4 Carefully roll the pastry up around
the rolling pin, then lay it over the
tart case and unroll it from the pin
with the floured underside facing up
and the more buttery side against
the metal tin [G]. Press evenly into
the base and sides of the tin, folding
the excess back over the outside
of the tin. Trim the edge slightly
so about 5mm of the tin’s outside
is showing [H]. Bring the trimmings
together and use to help press the
pastry into the corners and flutes of
the tin [I], then cover with cling film
and chill again for 30 minutes.
5 Heat the oven to 190°C/170°C fan/
gas 5. Fill the pastry case with
baking paper and ceramic baking
beans or uncooked rice. Put on
a baking sheet, cook for 15 minutes,
then remove the beans/rice and
paper. Bake for 5 minutes more
until sandy to the touch. Set aside
to cool.
6 Meanwhile, make the frangipane
filling. Using a wooden spoon or
electric mixer, cream the butter
and sugar in a mixing bowl with
the vanilla, nutmeg and orange
zest. Add the ground, whole and
flaked almonds and flour, then
mix well. Beat in the egg and
rum until smooth.
7 Reduce the oven temperature to
170°C/150°C fan/gas 3½. Fill the
tart case with the frangipane mix
and use a dessert spoon or spatula
to level the top [J]. Top with the
apricot halves or quarters [K] and
bake for 45-50 minutes until golden
brown and slightly springy.
8 Once out of the oven, use a small,
sharp serrated knife to cut around
the edges of the tart to remove
the excess overhang and create
super-sharp edges [L].
9 Gently warm the apricot jam,
brandy and a splash of water in
a pan or the microwave and brush
BE A BETTER COOK
F
CHEF’S STEP BY STEP
L
all over the tart while still warm,
brushing first the frangipane, then NEXT
the apricots, then the frangipane MONTH
again. Serve warm in slices, Green tomato
chutney from
topped with crème fraîche.
preserves
PER SERVING 604kcals, 39.1g fat expert Elspeth
(16.4g saturated), 11.2g protein, Biltoft
49.4g carbs (31.6g sugars),
0.6g salt, 1.7g fibre
DAVID’S TIPS FOR SUCCESS
→ When making pastry, I use salted butter for
flavour. It also gives a shorter, crisper result.
→ To stop your bowl slipping when creaming
sugar and butter (step 1), set a tea towel under it.
→ Using the creaming method creates a softer
pastry dough so, for best results, chill for the
full amount of time I recommend.
→ Roll the pastry as near as possible to the
shape of your tin before adding extra flour to
the surface or rolling pin, to stop it drying out.
→ Next time, try spreading 2 tbsp apricot jam
over the base of the blind baked tart case
before topping with frangipane (step 7) and/or
sprinkle fresh raspberries over before baking.
→ Brushing the frangipane mixture with glaze
twice gives extra flavour and a glorious gloss.
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 113
 TEST REPORT
“Their cheeky banter put
the ‘blue’ in blue cheese”
THE COOKERY SCHOOL
WHERE Wildes Cheese, 33 Queen
Street, Tottenham, London N17;
wildescheese.co.uk
THE COURSE Cheesemaking,
£135 (10am to 4.30pm; includes lunch,
tea and a lot of cheese to take home)
TESTED BY Vic Grimshaw

THE SETTING
Wildes Cheese is on a small industrial
estate in north London. If this doesn’t
shout ‘rural idyll’, rest assured that the
urban setting conceals a quite magnificent
cathedral of cheesemaking. The business
was started in 2012 by Philip Wilton and
his partner Keith Sides, after Philip was
made redundant from his management
consulting job. The two still head up this
award-winning cheesemaking outfit.
WHAT’S THE CLASS LIKE?
Phil and Keith love a disco soundtrack, and
enjoy putting the ‘blue’ in blue cheese with
their cheeky, somewhat sweary banter.
You don’t need any prior experience to
enjoy a day here. The course takes place in
the dairy itself, so it’s not built for comfort,
but there’s ample opportunity to sit down,
chat and ask questions via plentiful coffee
and biscuit stops. Keith produced several
of their creations for us to sample,
including londonshire, a glorious punchy
puddle you could scoop up with a spoon.
We also spent time handling and tasting
cheeses at various stages of development.
WHAT DO YOU LEARN?
less important whey), stopping
for a vegetarian lunch while the
transformation was taking place.
Generously refreshed, we set about
cutting the curds into small squares
DAIRY TALE
Keith Sides makes with a knife (satisfying), turning them
learning fun; straining with our hands every few minutes.
the cheese (right) After squishing out the whey, we
squashed our curds into moulds,
of unhomogenised milk from a farm in ready to take home. We were also
Rye, West Sussex. To make the best cheese encouraged to take bottles of spare whey
you need the best milk, Keith insists. to use on our gardens, in bread, or on our
The making of their cheese also involves skin. Wildes sends its excess commercial
vegetarian rennet, made from fungus. whey to help fertilise wasteland, so little
Since the Wildes guys believe it’s every bit goes to waste. I also spotted an electric
as good as the animal stuff (enzymes from van charging up outside for deliveries to
a calf’s stomach), why use something that London’s chefs, leaving me feeling Wildes’
would render their wares inedible to so eco credentials were in the right place.
much of the cheese-eating population? WHAT DO YOU TAKE HOME?
Our task for the day was to make three Exactly what you make – some flavoured
varieties: a white British-style (think curd, plus three cheeses that will require
Lancashire), a blue and a French-style quite the beauty regimen over the following
soft cheese akin to brie or camembert. few weeks (they need to be turned, washed
First, we added the different bacterial and kept moisturised in a fridge, garage
starters to our buckets of milk (it’s worth or larder until they’ve properly matured).
noting that they sell these and the rennet THE VERDICT
PHOTOGRAPHS: VIC GRIMSHAW

The day started with the words that always
terrify me when I turn up to a course on
my own: “We’ll be working in pairs today.”
But a quick glance to my left, a smile, and
I was partnered with Matthew. We stood
in our pairs in front of three huge buckets
online, so you can make cheese at home).
While the bacteria were doing their stuff,
we flavoured soft curd cheese from a vast
array of spices, herbs and honeys.
Next, we added rennet to the buckets
to produce the all-important curds (and
A thoroughly enjoyable day – a riot of fun
backchat as well as learning. And when,
some weeks later, the time came to eat
what I’d made, I was delighted to find it
looked and tasted like proper cheese!
SCORE + + + + +

114 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 HOT NE W COOKBOOKS

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THE BOOK OF PRESERVES
Jam-making time is upon
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Pam Corbin’s new book,
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handsome, practical tome
with some 100 recipes for
jams, jellies, compotes,
pickles and chutneys.
Bloomsbury £20
THE 7-DAY BASKET
Aimless supermarket visits
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The debut book from chef
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10 weeks’ worth of dinner
recipes for two, plus a full
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The recipes are mostly quick
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THE MODERN TAGINE
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Author Ghillie Basan is
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Meat, poultry, fish, veg,
sweets – it’s all here…
Ryland Peters & Small
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THE PIG: TALES AND RECIPES
FROM THE KITCHEN GARDEN
AND BEYOND
“A more relaxed take on
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This recipe collection
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Conran Octopus £30

THE GADGE T
Napoleon TravelQ Pro 285E
Portable Electric Grill, £339.99
See napoleon.com/en/uk
for stockists
TESTED BY Aggie MacKenzie
WHY BOTHER? If you love barbecued food but
your outside space is limited, or there are
restrictions on using an open flame, this
could be the answer.
WHAT’S GOOD ABOUT IT? It’s electric, so you never
have to worry about running out of fuel;
you just need a nearby socket. No one
enjoys cleaning a gunked-up barbie, but
this one’s easy to take apart, and the drip
pan need only be emptied every four or five
uses. It has a built-in thermometer, which
is useful for monitoring when you’re
roasting a chicken, for instance. PERFECT
ANY DRAWBACKS? I have a problem with the
FOR A BARBIE
ON YOUR
term ‘portable’. Yes, it can be carried BALCONY
(by handles at either end), but only for
an extremely short distance by a strong
person who has nothing else to carry.
THE VERDICT? I liked it much more than
I was expecting to. It may be bulky,
but the grill capacity is generous,
allowing for six to eight portions of
meat or fish. It takes about the same
time as efficient charcoal to come to
grilling temperature. There’s a good
smoky flavour to the food, plus sear
marks, and I honestly wouldn’t have
been able to tell that my steak
hadn’t been cooked over charcoal. →
THE COOKBOOK the ribs weren’t as soft as I wanted, either.
With an extra 20 minutes, plus some
Apple: Recipes from the additional basting, they did deliver the
Orchard by James Rich sweet-sour, tender meatiness I was after.
(Hardie Grant £20; out Next up, toffee apple cake. Spiced with
8 August) cinnamon and ginger and crowned with
TESTED BY Susan Low apple slices, it was made especially moreish
by the treacley toffee sauce served with it.
Author James Rich may well have When time allows, I’m going to tackle
cider running through his veins. The apple cider vinegar, made from apple cores
son of a Somerset cider-maker, he and peelings, sugar and the magic of
grew up with apple orchards as his fermentation over the space of four weeks.
playground and was lucky enough DO THE PICTURES DRAW YOU IN?
to have a grandmother who Photography by Jacqui Melville conjures
was a keen cook; she up summery countryside bordering on
encouraged his interest the Edenic – apple trees weighed down
Toffee apple
in food from a young age. with ripe red fruit and outdoor tables
cake
Rich’s debut book groaning with platefuls of cakes, cheeses
evokes the glory of the and appley delicacies. Recipe photos are
English countryside, autumn’s crispness comes. clean, simple and sunlit, although not all
although I’d like to have For now I chose something the recipes are accompanied by photos.
read more about the history more summery to road-test: WHO’S THE BOOK SUITABLE FOR?
of apples and cider in the sweet and sticky pork ribs with Recipes run the gamut from salads and
West Country or heard apple wedges (I could imagine soups to casseroles and stews, not to
more about the sights and sounds these being barbecued) made with apple mention cocktails and some fine-looking
of an apple harvest in full flow. juice, apple syrup and cider vinegar, and preserves, so there’s something for
HOW GOOD ARE THE RECIPES? roasted with granny smiths. The ribs are everyone, and the recipes are achievable.
The most appealing make the most of first poached in a spicy liquid, then roasted Helps if you like apples, obvs.
West Country flavours – chicken, cider with a sweet/tangy sauce. I found it took SCORE + + +
and cheddar crumble; poached apples and longer than the stated 15 minutes to chop Visit deliciousmagazine.co.uk/apple-
cider brandy sauce – and I have my eye on onions, grate garlic, and peel and core cookbook-roadtest after 8 August to find
a warming rabbit and cider stew for when apples. After the 70-minute roasting time the recipes Susan cooked

THE TAS TE TES T VANILL A ICE CRE AM

HOW WE TEST
Our panel are taste experts.
We conduct our tests without
packaging, so our tasters don’t
know who produced each
product or its price. And to
prevent one tester influencing
another, the panel can’t confer
during the tests, so the results
you read here are unbiased.
21
PRODUCTS
TESTED
SUPER M A R K E T BR A NDED
WINNER M&S Dessert Menu Vanilla WINNER Grom Vanilla Gelato Ice Cream,
Ice Cream, £4 for 500ml Pleasing dense £6.99 for 460ml, Ocado & Waitrose
texture and milky taste. Ground Smooth, soft texture with visible
vanilla pods provide good flavour. vanilla seeds and creamy,
long-lasting flavour.
RUNNER-UP Tesco Finest Madagascan Vanilla
Ice Cream, £2.30 for 480ml Light and milky RUNNER-UP RUNNER-UP
with well-judged sweetness, but lacking Green & Black’s Jude’s Very
intensity of flavour and richness. Organic Vanilla Vanilla Ice
Ice Cream, Cream, £4.20
TASTE TEST WORDS: PHOEBE STONE

WHAT WE LOOKED FOR
Vanilla ice cream should
have a rich, creamy mouthfeel
and a warm, rounded vanilla
flavour. Anything grainy, icy
or thin was marked down.
SPLIT OPINION £4.20 for 500ml, for 500ml,
Waitrose 1 Madagascan Vanilla Ice Cream, major retailers Ocado, Waitrose
£3.69 for 500ml A strong aftertaste of vanilla extract Full-bodied and & Sainsbury’s
and the firm set divided our testers’ votes. custardy, with Fresh, creamy dairy
Waitrose Duchy Organic Vanilla Ice Cream, vanilla-pod flecks. flavour with subtle
£3.49 for 750ml Distinctive clean and light character; Traditional dairy-rich vanilla. Some testers
some testers wanted more richness. ice cream. found it a little icy.

116 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 next month.

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 Denmark’s
seaside escape
The magical Jutland peninsula is a place of shifting sands, wide
blue skies and some of the best cuisine the country has to offer.
Norman Miller heads to its northern shores for stellar seaside
feasts with a side order of history

JUTLAND – IT’S A SHORE THING,

CLOCKWISE FROM THIS PICTURE
Grenen, at the meeting of the
seas; there’s plenty more fish
and surfing, too; daily bread at
Keramikafé; on the harbour,
Skagen Fiskerestaurant
combines fish and the arts – as
seen in this vintage poster
 hungry traveller.

Special places have

special colours. In
Jutland, the radiant
mustard yellow of
the buildings turns
towns into splashes
of fallen sunshine, while summer
dusks bring the ‘blue hour’, when
sea and sky merge into beautiful
unity. Majestic dunes that would
be the envy of the Sahara rise in
silky ripples of platinum sand.
On my first day, I jinked through
tussocky little dunes lent an eerie
edge by German World War II
bunkers, then along a vast straw-
coloured beach to the slender
sandbar that marks Denmark’s
northern tip at Grenen, where two
differently hued seas collide – the
Kattegat jostling the Skagerrak in
an impasto of choppy wavelets.
Think of Jutland as the
Scandinavian riposte to Cornwall,
a slender 110km-long peninsula
reaching up from the cosmopolitan
gateway city of Aalborg into the
nook where Norway meets
Sweden. For centuries it was
a rugged backwater of lonely
fishing hamlets, where the moated
Renaissance jewel Voergaard Slot
(voergaardslot.dk) stands out as
a wonderful historical quirk. The
castle has one of Denmark’s most
ravishing interiors, priceless art
and an infamous dungeon.

AN ARTY VIBE
Jutland stayed off radar until
artists came in the late 1800s
to forge a Danish Impressionism,
whose depictions of hardy fisherfolk
and elegant bourgeoisie fill the
Museum (skagenskunstmuseer.dk)
in the chic seaside town of Skagen
(‘Skay-en’). I tuned deeper into the
artist vibe at the nearby bohemian
museum Anchers Hus (4 Markvej),
home of 19th-century painters
Michael and Anna Anchers.
The things that drew artists to
Jutland remain. Magical light
bounces off surging sea and
wave-swept strands, while ocean
sunsets usher in night skies thickly
speckled with stars. Dreamy →

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 119
 towns embrace fishing harbours
lined with seafood spots. Walking
among picket-fenced houses,
I indulged in Scandi seaside fantasies
of moving here to take up painting.
But Jutland also has one of
Europe’s most restless shores,
a hymn to erosion’s double act
with eternity. Vast dunes shift in
ceaseless movement, devouring
ancient churches such as the
14th-century Sand-Covered
Church. Only the tower remains,
pointing heavenward in wooded
dunes 3km from Skagen.

MICHELIN STARS TO
‘MAMA COOKING’
On the plus side, nature gives
Jutland a fabulous larder. Take
Skagen Fiskerestaurant
(skagenfiskerestaurant.dk), beside
Denmark’s largest fishing harbour.
The floor is covered in scuffable
sand beneath artful vintage posters,
while chef Jesper Winter’s menu
showcases just-landed flounder and
plaice with Nordic accompaniments
such as lingonberry, as well as
succulent Norwegian lobster tails,
their legendary homemade
fishcakes (fiskedeller) and dill-
dusted Skagen prawns.
I ended lunch with a snifter
(okay, two) of lip-smacking local
Skagenl lGrenen l Gothenburg
Hirtshalsl lRabjerg Mile
Lønstrupl lFrederikshavn SWEDEN
Løkkenl
hooch called bjesk, flavoured by
Jesper with foraged finds such as
sea wormwood, crowberry and sea
buckthorn. “I love going out in
nature to pick herbs for the bjesk,”
said Winter, before praising local
foodie possibilities. “For such a
small town, Skagen is unique for
its choice of food, from Michelin
stars to ‘mama cooking’.”
It’s not just restaurants.
Harbourside fishmonger Aavangs
Fiskehus (aavangsfiskehus.dk) is
a perfect picnic pitstop: herring
in multiple ways, freshly cooked
prawns, filled seafood baps. Just
inland, Slagter Munch (munch-
skagen.dk) is a famed family deli
whose organic hams are a favourite
it’s a foodie beacon, where I followed
the famed fish soup (see box,
opposite) with turbot paired with
bright purple beetroot sauce, earthy
fennel and leafy spinach beet.
But Skagen does classic Danish
simplicity too – such as the
smørrebrød (open sandwiches)
served at the laidback Iscafeen
Skagen (Oddevej 2A) beside a
landmark red-brick water tower.
“If you can see the bread it isn’t
proper smørrebrød,” explained
owner Maria.
Skipping classic coverings like
herring/pickles/eggs and Skagen
shrimp, I plumped for ‘dyrlaegans
natmad’ after finding out it
translates as ‘veterinarian’s night

PHOTOGRAPHS: NORMAN MILLER, TURISTHUS NORD SKAGEN, METTE JONSEN,

of Denmark’s Queen Margrethe. As snack’. This old farmhouse offering
AT

l
Aalborg I nibbled 24-month Skagen skinke turned out to be liver pâté and salted
TEG

(cured ham) and rullepølse (pork veal with salad, plus wobbly dollops
belly streaked with seams of herbs of meaty aspic. Maria told me the
SEA

and spices like a piggy swiss roll), Danes call this ‘sky’ and “the Swedes
K AT

I thought: she’s on to something. have a version called ‘buttered

Skagen’s most venerable goose’,” she laughed, as if letting
gourmet spot is Brøndums Hotel me in on a droll Nordic foodie joke.
DENMARK
VISITDENMARK, ERIK CHRISTOPHERSEN

(broendums-hotel.dk), where
Copenhagen I headed for dinner as the evening
l sun dappled its pretty 1860s facade.
The 19th-century painters were fed
and watered here too, placing art in
the wood-panelled lounge and
dining room that later formed the
nucleus of the nearby gallery. Now
SURFSIDE SNACKING
Leaving Skagen, I headed for the
west coast artists’ village of
Lønstrup, pausing en route to scale
Denmark’s biggest dune at Rabjerg
Mile, a sea of sand that doubled as
the Sahara in vintage Danish films.

120 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

Lønstrup’s little studio-lined streets
are a delight and I paused along the
way to chat to artists such as potter
Vibe Valkenberg, as she worked
and spun clay on her wheel in the
middle of the cosy gallery café at
Keramoda (keramoda.dk).
In the afternoon I saw an icon
of Jutland’s tussle between land
and sea up close: the abandoned
lighthouse overwhelmed by the
Rubjerg Knude dunes. Local guide
Jakob Kofoed talked about plans to
move the structure inland, acting
as if moving lighthouses is an
everyday Jutland thing, while
pointing to where his former
office lay buried by sand.
A late-afternoon winding back
road drive led me through little
woods and past farms to Hirtshals,
another busy little port with more
come-to-me quayside diners, such
as the upscale Abstrakt (restaurant
abstrakt.dk) or the simpler Fiskehus
(hirtshalsfiskehus.dk). I went for the
latter to try the classic Jutland dish
stjerneskud (shooting star). Named
for Soviet cosmonaut Yuri Gagarin
after he visited in the 1960s, it
turned out to be a vast assemblage
of fried and boiled fish, smoked
salmon, caviar and salad – with,
of course, a Russian dressing. Fish
soup was cosmic too, full of mussels
bobbing in rich red bisque.
My last night was at Løkken,
a Nordic surf mecca that locals
have nicknamed Cold Hawaii.
North Shore Surf (northshoresurf.
dk) is where to learn to hang ten,
complemented by beach yoga and
wood barrel beach saunas. And
while the Havs diner (husethavs.
dk) provides hip aprés-surf
snacks, wave riders and others
also love its summer pop-up
seafood stall (see box, right).
HITTING THE FOOD TRAIL
The gateway city Aalborg offers
a cultural Jutland amuse-bouche.
On its Limfjord waterfront, the boxy
Musikkens Hus concert hall and the
curvy roofed Utzon Centre are steel
beauties, the latter celebrating the
local architect who designed Sydney
Opera House. And don't miss the
inspiring Kunsten contemporary
gallery designed by Alvar Aalto,
and historic jewels like the 14th-
century Budolfi Church with its
stunning painted wood interior.
Aalborg is also a hotspot on
Jutland’s Gastro North (gastronorth.
dk) food trail, a clutch of restaurants
sure to get Instagram-loving
gourmands in a happy snappy tizz.
At Morten Nielsen’s Mortens Kro
(mortenskro.dk; see recipe p122),
hungry traveller.
5 MUSTN’T-MISS JUTLAND
EXPERIENCES
1 FISH SOUP AT BRØNDUMS HOTEL, SKAGEN
Each new chef puts their spin on Madam
Brøndum’s classic 19th-century recipe. Dennis
Boe Carlsen offers a pretty pink, slightly tart
variation using rich, fried turbot bone stock.
broendums-hotel.dk
2 THE VIEW AT VILLA VEST, LØNSTRUP
A palely serene beachside dining room frames
views waiters wryly acknowledge can distract
from the excellent changing seasonal dishes.
villavest.dk
3 SØGAARDS BREWHOUSE, AALBORG
Perfect for a laid-back lunch or sundowner on a
historic cobbled square, enjoying cool Danish pub
grub such as pork crackling with blackcurrant
powder, alongside 40-plus ales and local aquavits.
soegaardsbryghus.dk
4 POP-UP SEAFOOD STALL, LØKKEN
By beached boats and wood barrel saunas,
North Shore Surf’s beach pop-up hawks
local beer-battered fish and chips, fab
fiskedeller and renowned ‘surfer’s toast’
made with Jutland ham and cheese.
northshoresurf.dk
5 KERAMIKCAFÉ MØLLEHUSET,
NEAR LØNSTRUP
Wonderfully atmospheric pottery café at an old
Dutch-style windmill near Lønstrup – its
homemade cakes are a Jutland legend.
mollehuset.com
I wolfed Michelin-starred nosh COOL VIBES,
high on technical nous and punchy FROM TOP LEFT
F usion on
flavours, beneath an eye-popping Aalborg's
pornographic painting. Nearby waterfront;
Textur (restauranttextur.dk) staff outside
gastropub
presents brilliant affordable seasonal Søgaards
menus built on flavoursome Brewhouse in
triptychs: roast fish with ramson Aalborg; surfer’s
and cucumber, grilled wild boar beach at Løkken
with celeriac and apple.
On the waterfront, Fusion
(restaurantfusion.dk) celebrates
chef Vinh Du’s inspirational Asian
heritage as the son of a Vietnamese
boat refugee by uniting Far East
flavours with superb Far North
produce in glitzy style (yes, that is
gold leaf you’re eating). But I got as
much pleasure wandering along the
waterfront to Aalborg Street Food
– The Lighthouse. Set like other
Jutland joys beside a little →
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 121
hungry traveller.
harbour, it’s an old factory
transformed into a vast zany
street-food hub offering cuisines
from around the world – American,
Balkan, Mexican.
“You don’t need to be a chef –
you just need passion to cook the
food you want,” manager Isabel
Enevoldsen told me. As we watched
boats bobbing on the sea, I wrestled
a pile of pulled duck and salty duck-
fat fries while supping deeply on
a glass of delicious dark Kissmeyer
beer. The sun was shining, the
mood was relaxed and everything
was just dandy. Welcome to Jutland.
WHERE TO STAY
• Ruths Hotel, Skagen
Set amid dunes in Skagen’s old
west coast fishing quarter,
Ruths offers unstuffy historic
luxury: fine Danish art and
design, a spa, plus excellent
Gastro North restaurant.
Doubles from £250 b&b (offers
available). ruths-hotel.dk
• Løkken Strand Hotel
In a former 1920s school, this
distinctive hotel offers 16 airy
rooms with balconies, plus
breakfast served in the
atmospheric old school gym.
Doubles from £130 b&b.
hotelloekkenstrand.dk
HOW TO GET THERE
Ryanair flies direct from
London Stansted to Aalborg.
Norwegian offers UK flights
via Copenhagen.
CAR HIRE
You'll need a car to get around.
Hire one at Aalborg airport with
Avis (avis.com/en/locations/dk/
aalborg) from £97 for a week.
122 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
Morten Nielsen's
jomfruen smørrebrød
SERVES 2. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, OVEN TIME
15-20 MIN, PLUS COOLING AND 2 HOURS PICKLING
FOOD
Buy raw langoustines from your
TEAM’S fishmonger or frozen in large
TIPS
Sainsbury's and online at
thefishsociety.co.uk – defrost to cook. For
a guide on how to prepare langoustines,
search deliciousmagazine.co.uk. Keep
leftover pickled fennel in the pickling liquid
in a sterilised jar for up to 2 weeks.
• 1 fennel bulb, fronds reserved to garnish
• 50g good quality mayonnaise
• Finely grated zest and juice ½ lemon
• 3 dark rye bread slices, thinly cut
• Knob of butter for frying
• 8-10 sustainable raw langoustines,
shelled (see tips)
• 1 ripe avocado, sliced and tossed with
juice ½ lemon
FOR THE ELDERFLOWER PICKLE
• 100ml elderflower cordial
• 100ml apple cider vinegar
• 1 star anise
• 1 tsp black peppercorns
• 1 tsp coriander seeds
YOU’LL ALSO NEED
• Food processor TRY
THIS AT
HOME
1 Thinly slice the fennel, using a mandoline
if you have one, then put in a bowl and
sprinkle with salt. Set aside for 1 hour.
2 In a small bowl, mix the mayonnaise
with the lemon zest and juice to taste,
then cover and chill until ready to serve.
3 Heat the oven to 140°C/120°C fan/gas 1.
Put 1 rye bread slice in a food processor
and whizz to make fine crumbs. Spread
out on a baking sheet and bake for 15-20
minutes until crisp. Set aside to cool, then
whizz again. Season to taste with salt.
4 Mix all the elderflower pickle ingredients
with 200ml water in a small pan, then
heat gently until just steaming. Rinse the
fennel, put in a glass or ceramic bowl (or
large sterilised jar if you plan to keep it for
while) and cover with the hot pickling
liquid. Cool, then chill for at least 1 hour.
5 Heat a generous knob of butter in a
frying pan, add the langoustines and fry
for a few minutes until cooked through.
6 Lightly toast the remaining rye bread
slices, then halve. Top with avocado, fennel,
langoustines, lemony mayo, a sprinkle of
rye breadcrumbs and fennel fronds.
PER SERVING 616kcals, 37.7g fat (6.2g
saturated), 28.4g protein, 36.2g carbs
(5.8g sugars), 1.7g salt, 9.3g fibre
WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE A crisp, dry
RECIPE: MORTEN NIELSEN/GASTRO NORTH. PHOTOGRAPH: TOBY SCOTT. FOOD STYLING: JEN BEDLOE. STYLING: OLIVIA WARDLE
white such as a Loire sauvignon blanc
or muscadet – or a bone-dry cider.
Morten is chef at Mortens Kro, Aalborg

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London and resort transfers, so all
you need to worry about is choosing
which restaurant to try first…
• For more information on
Luxury Included holidays at
Sandals Resorts, visit sandals.co.uk.
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 123
hungry traveller.
GREAT ESCAPES
Country style: Gravetye Manor
TO THE MANOR WHY IT’S GREAT Imagine the epitome
BORN, CLOCKWISE
of an English country-house hotel
FROM ABOVE
Breathtaking and you couldn’t do better than
grounds add Gravetye: gravel drive, honeyed
to the sense of stone, wood panelling, the scent of
escapism; the
glass-walled beeswax and freshly picked flowers
dining room on the air. Nestled in the Sussex
brings nature up countryside, this Elizabethan
close; comfort manor house exudes an air of
and luxury
combine with peace, gentility and stepping back
echoes of the in time that slows your heartbeat.
past; fresh There’s a seductive sense of getting
produce comes
from the manor’s
away from it all that you don’t
kitchen garden find in many of today’s clattery
chrome-and-glass-style hotels.
Among Gravetye’s list of notable
attributes is its garden, created by
the visionary William Robinson
in 1885. It comes into its own in
spring and summer, with banks of
blowsy, colour-coordinated flowers,
secret pathways and leafy arbours
all around. It’s a space to linger in.
There’s a walled kitchen garden,
too, with everything in neat
rows like a giant allotment. I was
up early the morning after my
overnight stay and, drawing back
124 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
the curtains, I saw a gentle mist
hovering over the garden, lush in
the dawn light. It was magical.
THE FOOD First, the (stunning) dining
room. It’s modern but not jarringly
so, an entire wall of glass seamlessly
blending the inside with the garden
beyond. Everything is green and
white and suffused with light. At
night it’s all a-twinkle.
Much of the fresh produce comes
from the manor’s kitchen garden,
and what doesn’t is sourced locally.
The written tasting menu – a simple
roll-call of ingredients – gives little
away, but expect plates of pretty,
vibrant food, all flavours in harmony.
My favourite dish was a happy
union of deep-fried broccoli florets,
fudgy quail’s eggs, roasted squash
and a showering of tangy grated
cheese (pecorino, I think). Lamb,
hiding beneath a herby foam, was
succulent and yielding. A frozen
pudding married the flavours of
tiramisu and caramel in style.
For breakfast – enhanced a
hundredfold by the setting – expect
buttery, flaky pastries, a top-notch
full English and any combo of
eggs you can think of, plus freshly
squeezed OJ and excellent coffee.
THE ROOMS Traditional country,
with floral fabrics, furniture that
whispers of Downton Abbey-esque
times gone by, and mullioned
windows overlooking the garden.
WORDS: KAREN BARNES. PHOTOGRAPHS: CLAIRE TAKACS (EXTERIOR), PATRICIA NIVEN (FOOD)
The beds are huge and comfy,
the showers powerful and there’s
efficient air con.
WHAT TO DO IN THE AREA Gravetye’s
head chef, George Blogg, runs
foraging masterclasses at nearby
Kingscote Vineyard.
WHAT’S NOT SO GREAT If I had to be
picky, I’d suggest taking foams off
the plates in the restaurant – but
that’s just a matter of preference.
THE COST Seasonal lunches, £48
for three courses; tasting menu
(available for lunch and dinner),
£95 for seven courses; Sunday lunch,
£55; afternoon tea, £30. Room rates
from £295 for two with breakfast
included; look out for offers on the
website. gravetyemanor.co.uk
 No. 8
PRIZE CROSSWORD
Complete the puzzle, take a picture and email
it to info@deliciousmagazine.co.uk. You could
win a FREE Tastecard, worth £79.95*
CROSSWORD PRIZE With a Tastecard you can get 2 for 1 meals
or 50% off your total food bill at more than 6,000 participating
restaurants for 12 months. On average, Tastecard owners save
nearly £19 per restaurant visit. tastecard.co.uk
ACROSS
1&15 Colourful leaf vegetable (7,5)
6 _____ moss: red algae or seaweed, also called carrageen (5)
7 French, rum-soaked type of babka, shaped in a ring (7)
9 Ancient type of grain, similar to durum wheat (5)
10 Ice cream, syrup and whipped cream dessert, served in a glass (6)
13 Mexican dish of grilled meat or veg served in a taco or tortilla (6)
17 These popular fruit are hybrids of pomelos and mandarins (7)
18 A waiter or bar person takes this from you (5)
19 When the sun is over this, it’s time for a drink (7)
DOWN
1 Dry biscuits or twice-baked bread – good for teething babies (5)
2 Sweet Bordeaux wine; not sauternes, the other one (6)
3 “Sunlight, held together by water” – Galileo Galilei (4)
4 Bubbling, just below boiling point (9)
5 Sea predator; millions are killed every year, just for their fins (5)
8 Where the main constituents of 3 down are grown (9)
11 Middle Eastern marketplace, where you might buy spices (6)
12 Utensil for serving ice cream, mashed potato or chips (5)
14 State of India known for its tea plantations (5)
16 John ____: tasty sea fish also known as St Peter’s fish (4)
See opposite page for answers to June’s crossword
128 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
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THIS MONTH The team reveal their favourite holiday food
Editor Karen Barnes 020 7803 4115 Spaghetti alle vongole
Deputy editor Susan Low 020 7803 4120 Fried stuffed courgette flowers
Editorial & features assistant Phoebe Stone 020 7803 4115 Neapolitan wood-fired pizza
Food editor Jennifer Bedloe 020 7803 4119 Calamari with a cold lager
Deputy food editor Sophie Austen-Smith 020 7803 4118 Garlic and chilli prawns
Cookery assistant Olivia Spurrell 020 7803 4131 Proper gelato
Art director Jocelyn Bowerman 020 7803 4124 Fritto misto
Acting art director (maternity cover) Martine Tinney 020 7803 4125
Massive prawns cooked in garlic and oil
Acting art editor Brydie Noonan 020 7803 4124 Maltese ricotta cheese pastizzi
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Deputy chief sub editor Hugh Thompson 020 7803 4117 Çevapi (Croatian meatballs)
Wine editor Susy Atkins Gadget tester Aggie MacKenzie
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Assistant digital editor Fiona Logan 020 7803 4134 Classic Neapolitan pizza
Marketing & digital assistant Ruby Dumbrell 020 7803 4104 Roast fish in herbs & lemon
Podcast producer Gilly Smith Sea bass barbecued in vine leaves, Greek style
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* FOR TS&CS, SEE OPPOSITE. CROSSWORD COMPILED BY HUGH THOMPSON
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 for your records.

AUGUS T 2019

RECIPE INDEX

34 52 92 103
STARTERS, SIDES • Chinese-style sticky VEGETARIAN, VEGAN SWEET THINGS
AND NIBBLES pork ribs 91 AND VEGETABLE-BASED • Apricot and almond
• Almond salmorejo soup 34 • Creamy corn houmous • Aubergine milanese tart 111
• Cornbread with Mexican-style with lamb chops, tomatoes with spaghetti 86 • Blackcurrant curd 106
salad 94 and baby leaves 94 • Black rice paella with • Butterscotch and
• Fried feta saganaki 99 • Frying pan lasagne 55 artichokes, padrón peppers pecan marshmallow
• Fried halloumi fingers 99 • Margherita with chorizo 48 and spinach 30 popcorn bites 60
• Sriracha devilled eggs 56 • Pasticcio 86 • Chilli tofu veg ‘noodles’ • Cheat’s raspberry ice cream 6
• Street food-style corn 95 • Sausage, lentil and 93 • Chewy peanut butter cookie
goat’s cheese salad with • Courgette and blue and plum ice cream
MAIN COURSES tapenade dressing 87 cheese pizza 46 sandwiches 38
POULTRY • Slow-cooked • Greek courgette and feta • Passion fruit tiramisu 58
• Chicken paella with squid baby back pork ribs 90 frittata 100 • Piña colada yogurt
and beans 29 • Steak with chilli-parsley • Green French toast with pops 103
• Harissa, orange & honey sauce and deep-fried honey drizzle 102 • Sour cherry and mahlab
spatchcocked chicken vegetables 66 • Heirloom cherry tomatoes, welsh cakes 59
with pickled cabbage and burrata and herb pesto • Summer pudding arctic
almond tabbouleh 52 FISH & SEAFOOD pizza 48 roll 36
• Korean-style sweetcorn • Chorizo-crumbed cod • Radicchio risotto with • Yuzu daiquiri cheesecakes 51
salad 95 loin, pepper and olive balsamic vinegar 68
• Mexican chicken and traybake 85 • Roast tomatoes and OTHER
red rice burrito bowls 88 • Classic prawn cocktail 76 aubergines with wet • Basic pizza dough 46
• Quick chicken kebabs 85 • Crab rolls with yuzu polenta, sheep’s • Elderflower prosecco
• Romanian chicken and samphire 36 cheese and griddled with cucumber 48
and gherkin stew 70 • Fishcake rösti 56 sourdough 42
• Jomfruen • Roasted pepper and aubergine
BEEF, LAMB, PORK smørrebrød 122 salad with crispy spiced ↗ GET MORE AT THE
delicious. WEBSITE
AND GAME • Pan-fried scallops with chickpeas and labneh 48 Find 1,000s more tested recipes
and techniques, and join the
• Baby leaf salad with bacon lentils and chard 66 • Roasted vegetable and chickpea
delicious. online community.
and tarragon croutons and • Valencian seafood noodle quinoa salad 100 Visit deliciousmagazine.co.uk
edible flowers 75 paella (fideuà) 30 • Sweet potato nachos 92

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PRIZE CROSSWORD SOLUTION, JUNE: ACROSS 1 Peaches 6 Aioli 7 Pudding 9 Opera 10 Sabres 13 Sprout 15 Lungs 17 Pad Thai 18 Guava 19 Tartare DOWN 1 Pepys 2 Heifer 3 Sago 4 Bone broth
5 Midas 8 Dublin Bay 11 Spider 12 Slugs 14 Tuile 16 Spat

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 129
a good rant.
Afternoon tea is a swizz
Curling sandwiches, dry scones, an eye-watering
bill… Afternoon tea has a lot to answer for. Lauren
Bravo asks how a weird in-between meal managed
to trick its way into becoming a national pastime
A
s a 30-something woman who’s
perpetually at a hen party or
baby shower, half my summer
social life now revolves around afternoon
tea. Once it was beer gardens and
taco trucks; now it’s cutting miniature
lemon tarts in half while making polite
conversation with somebody’s aunt.
Even as you read this, probably lounging
in the park with a pitcher of Pimm’s,
I will be limbering up to debate whether it
should be jam or cream first. (The answer?
Nobody really cares.) As such, I feel
qualified to say it: afternoon tea is a swizz.
For a start, it suffers from time-slot
confusion in a similar way as brunch. But
while brunch robs us of two meals and
replaces it with one big one, afternoon tea
tries to shoehorn an extra meal into the
space that should be occupied by a solitary
slice of cake. The greatest trick this extra
meal of the day ever pulled was convincing
us it should exist. The second greatest
130 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
trick is charging us £30 for the pleasure.
So what are we paying for, exactly?
Nobody really knows. We know what
bread costs, and cucumber and butter
and jam, and enough clotted cream to
lubricate a bone-dry scone. We’re vaguely
Nobody has ever left
an afternoon tea feeling
satisfied that they’ve
eaten just the
right amount
aware of the mark-up on the average
cuppa, yet we force that knowledge down
along with the curling sandwiches because
whining about such things would ruin
the special occasion. In fact, I’m inclined
to think it’s the illusion of a ‘special
occasion’ we’re paying for. That and
a photo of ourselves, cup and saucer in
hand, smiling wanly next to a cake stand.
In what I like to call the ‘small plates
effect’: nobody has ever left an afternoon
tea feeling satisfied that they’ve eaten just
the right amount. The fare looks miserly
while somehow simultaneously spoiling
your dinner. The drive to get your money’s
worth inevitably throws down a gauntlet
that begins with drinking as much tea as
possible (“It says unlimited hot water –
read the small print, Barbara!”) and ends
with you eating spoonfuls of jam directly
from the jar when the waiter’s not looking.
I know, I know – some afternoon teas
are better than the sum of their parts.
I’ve been to Bettys in York and swooned
at the grand piano, I’ve left Fortnum &
Mason with a doggy bag and the air of
a defeated Bruce Bogtrotter. But these
are the exceptions that prove the rule.
A truly delicious afternoon tea is as rare
as a unicorn, and by that I do not mean
it involves rainbow cupcakes with horns.
And even if you do find a brilliant one
– even if the bread is soft as clouds, the
sandwich fillings are an orgy of flavour
and the cakes exquisite works of art –
you still know how it’s going to go. You’re
going to end up over-caffeinated, buzzing
on sugar, craving salad and needing a
lie-down, especially if prosecco has been
involved. (“No, you go ahead – I don’t
mind!” says every poor mum-to-be,
trying to summon enough sober
enthusiasm for a round of Guess The
Melted Chocolate Bar In The Nappy.)
No, let’s admit it: afternoon tea is just
lunch, two hours late. It’s an afternoon
snack for aristocratic toddlers. It’s six cups
of increasingly stewed tea, when what
you really wanted was a nice flat white.
In fact, let’s hold back the deluge of
mini-macarons… Can’t we all just go
down to a café for a coffee with a slab
ILLUSTRATION: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES
of brownie and change from a fiver?
Now that’s what I call a celebration.
Do you agree with Lauren or do
you take a different view? Tell us
at info@deliciousmagazine.co.uk
and we’ll print the best replies
 GET t
at
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